Page 1


Editorial

Never more so, in fact, than in this, our first issue of the new year, because it is always around this time that our focus turns to two of the highlights of the regional luxury calendar. The Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition is just weeks away, while the 20th instalment of the Dubai International Boat Show hoves into view just over a horizon sparkling with haute joaillerie. Therefore, as we have done before, we offer a blend of features and articles that reflect both of these important events, as well as a guide to our selection of must-see exhibitors at each of them. We have an exclusive interview with Rolex Brand Ambassador and global tennis champion, Roger Federer, as well as some words of wisdom from the CEO of Tag Heuer, Jean Christoph-Babin. Meanwhile, Megan Masterson investigates the allure and timelessness of the Cartier Tank Watch and Origins takes you behind the scenes and into the world of the master craftsmen at Chopard.

“I like to think of Sur la Terre as a luxury vessel. One that transports you across a diamond-studded sea, to a place where your aspirations and lifestyle dreams are laid out before you.”

In Out Of The Box, we preview the 20th anniversary of the Dubai International Boat Show, as well as the future of ocean-going travel aboard the MS Tûranor PlanetSolar, the world’s first fully solar-powered boat to circumnavigate the globe. Dig deeper and you will find all of our usual gems, from Fashion, Beauty, Accessories and Artopia, where Danny Issa hangs out with legendary jazz musician Wynton Marsalis in Oman and Steve Paugh previews the upcoming Takashi Murakami exhibition in his new shoes from Santoni. Kevin Hackett is once again In Motion, this time in the crown jewel of Lamborghini’s line up, the new V12 Aventador, while Siobhan Corley opens up the Golden Gate to sparkling San Francisco in Horizons. As the tide laps against the shore of a new year, we hope that you will climb aboard the good ship Sur la Terre for her maiden voyage of 2012, as we set sail once again for the land of plenty, across vast, glistening oceans of opulence. James McCarthy

Regional Managing Editor

. sur la terre . editorial .

1


CONTENTS

DOHA NUMBER 18

16

the list A r t , c u lt u r e , l i f e s t y l e

22

the scene W e r e yo u s e e n o n t h e s c e n e ?

28

f o r y o u r e y e s o n ly Th e t h i n g s yo u n e e d to o w n

36

gl obe tro t ter Yo u r g u i d e to g lo b a l l u x u r y

42

rev ue W e r e v i e w t h e at r e , t r av e l a n d f i l m

50

u p cl ose a n d per son a l Ta l e n t e d a n d pa s s i o n at e p e o p l e

58

b e au t y A new dimension

62

fe atu r e Th e c a r t i e r ta n k : a c u lt c l a s s i c

68

tr en ds con fiden ti a l Tr e n d f r i e n d s a n d f r e n e m i e s ,

72

look book G e t t h e l at e s t lo o k

10

SS12

. sur la terre . contents .


CONTENTS

DOHA NUMBER 18

74

fa s h i o n L a ville lum iere

80

or igi ns Th e s e c r e t s o f c h o pa r d

86

i n mo tion Th e l a m b o r g h i n i av e n ta d o r

92

ac c e s s o r i e s A ga m e o f sh a dows

96

a rt opi a Th e a r t s s c e n e to s e e

104

hor izons B e h i n d t h e g o l d e n g at e

110

o u t o f t h e b ox D o l u x e d i f f e r e n t ly

116

m a r k e t p l ac e P r o d u c t s ava i l a b l e lo c a l ly

118

bet w een the li n es Luxu ry by n u m b e r s

120

doh a jew ellery S h ow gu i d e

124

du b a i i n t er n ation a l boat show S h ow gu i d e

12

&

wa t c h e s

. sur la terre . contents .


“ T empus fugit.” - V i r g i l


the list arts and culture

21-24

15-20

Murakami - Ego

Art Dubai

Carpet Exhibition 2012

WHEN: Until June 2012 WHERE: Museum of Islamic Art, Doha WHAT: Takashi Murakami, acclaimed Japanese artist, designer and animator, brings his latest eccentric exhibition to Doha. On display at the Museum of Islamic Art until June 24, Murakami – Ego is an exhibition aimed at opening up “a dialogue with one’s own ego.” The exhibition will take a comprehensive look inside the imaginative world of Takashi Murakami’s admittedly quite feverish mind by featuring more than 60 of his works created over a decadelong span. Pieces on display will include a 100-metre-long painting, a lifelike inflatable adaptation of Murakami himself and other visually innovative pieces created specifically for the exhibition. This one is going to track your head-space with a atrippy trek when it comes to town. Read more about Takashi Murakami and the exhibition on page 100. www.qma.com.qa

WHEN: March 21 – 24 WHERE: Madinat Jumeirah Resort, Dubai WHAT: Art Dubai is an annual festival that takes place at the culturally rich Madinat Jumeirah Resort. The festival has grown in scope, participation and spectacle over the past five years and has established itself as an important platform for regional artists. The sixth edition of Art Dubai, beginning March 21, will feature work from over 70 art galleries, highlighting the best of contemporary art from local and international artists. As per tradition, the Abraaj Capital Art Prize will also be unveiled during Art Dubai. The Abraaj Capital Art Prize selects five artists from the Middle East, North Africa and South Asia to collaborate and produce a series of work to be unveiled at Art Dubai. Other highlights of the festival include workshops and guided tours by artists participating in the festival. www.artdubai.ae

WHEN: April 15 – 20 WHERE: Exhibition Center, Doha WHAT: The Middle East has long been famous for producing carpets of the highest quality. Often sought after by discerning homeowners and collectors alike, a luxurious carpet can provide a fabulous finishing touch to complete the look of any room. Beginning April 15th, the Exhibition Center will host the Second Qatar International Carpet Exhibition, a gathering of the region’s best carpet craftsmen. Attendees of the Carpet Exhibition will have the opportunity to browse and buy carpets that have been flown to Doha from countries all over the world. Carpets of all sizes, colours and price ranges will be on display, making the exhibit the one-stop shop for all your carpet needs. Do not let this opportunity slip out from under your feet! The exhibit will only be in town for five days. www.qatartourism.gov.qa

FEB june

16

mar

. sur la terre . the list .

apr


the list ENTERTAINMENT

14-17 mar

mar

31

20-22

The Wizard of Oz

Dubai World Cup

Bahrain Grand Prix

WHEN: March 14-17 WHERE: Doha WHAT: Take a trip down the yellow brick road and into the land of Oz with the Doha Players when they stage The Wizard of Oz, a musical adaptation of the timeless classic. Hear your favourite songs including “Over the Rainbow” and “We’re Off To See The Wizard” as Dorothy, Scarecrow, Lion and Tinman sing and dance their way to meet the all-powerful Wizard. The gang will come across a whole array of colourful and kooky characters including munchkins, flying monkeys and the vile Wicked Witch of the West. The performance will run for two weekends in the month of March, the 14th – 17th and 21st -24th, and will continue the legacy of performing excellence that the Doha Players have built over the years. For more information, contact: doha_players@yahoo.com

WHEN: March 31 WHERE: Meydan Racecourse, Dubai WHAT: It is no surprise that the Dubai World Cup was voted Best Sporting Event in Dubai for 2011. The prestigious Group One horserace has a fifteen-year history of assembling the finest thoroughbreds and jockeys for an exhilarating day of racing. The horses are not the only ones that take the spotlight during the Dubai World Cup. The Jaguar Style Stakes has become a staple of the Dubai World Cup, giving attendees a chance to show off their stylish threads and fancy hats in a competition for prizes provided by Jaguar. The Dubai World Cup has become known for the glamorous attire worn by those in attendance, as well as the awe-inspiring animals racing on the track. If the crowd of socialites and who’s whos aren’t your thing, the races can be enjoyed from the privacy and comfort of one of the 72 luxurious trackside suites, offering stunning views of the Meydan Grandstand and the action below. www.dubaiworldcup.com

WHEN: April 20-22 WHERE: Bahrain International Circuit, Manama, Bahrain WHAT: Formula 1 comes roaring back to the Bahrain International Circuit for the 2012 Formula 1 Gulf Air Grand Prix. The event was cancelled last year, but Formula 1 has assured fans that they are back in business and ready to race come April. The 20th and 21st will be relegated to practice laps and qualifying races. The green flag will be waved signalling the start of the race on the 22nd of April as drivers gear up to speed down 308 kilometres of track. Sebastian Vettel and Mark Webber dominated the racetracks for the Red Bull team during the 2011 season and will be looking to continue their hot streak early this year. Trying to outrace them will be their closest rivals, Lewis Hamilton and Jenson Button from team McLaren, as well as racers from Ferrari, Mercedes and the other Formula 1 greats. www.bahraingp.com

18

. sur la terre . the list .

apr


the list Lifestyle

9-11

13-17 mar

apr

Big Boys Toys

Dubai International Boat Show

International Wedding Exhibition and Fashion Show Doha

WHEN: February 9-11 WHERE: Atlantis The Palm, Dubai WHAT: You’ll want to leave the ladies at home for this one, boys. They might not understand why you need to purchase a foldable electric Yike Bike, a fully equipped luxury mobile home or a fine set of new golf clubs. Big Boys Toys is the ultimate playground for all things men: electronics, gadgets, cars, sporting equipment, you name it! The assembly of awesome is so large that it would make James Bond himself jealous. And this year’s event promises to be even bigger now that all the big toys have been moved to their new home, Atlantis the Palm. Big Boys Toys kicks off with a VIP inviteonly day on the 9th of February. Everyone else will be able to get their hands on some big toys beginning February 10th. www.bigboystoysuae.com

WHEN: 13-17 March WHERE: Dubai International Marine Club, Dubai, UAE WHAT: The highly anticipated and popular Dubai International Show celebrates it’s 20th anniversary this year. World premieres, regional launches, superyacht builders, Supercar Promenade, awards ceremonies, a family area, VIP packages and live entertainment are all set against a stunning background. As the Middle East’s largest and longest running leisure marine event, it’s no surprise that a record number of Superyacht Builders Assocation members will attend, including Benetti, Oceanco, Trinity Yachts, Lurssen and Abeking & Rasmussen. www.boatshowduabi.com

WHEN: April 4-7 WHERE: Doha Exhibition Center, Qatar WHAT: “I will! Now what?” Have no fear bride-to-be, the International Wedding Exhibition will soon return to Doha to shake off all wedding woes and get you down the aisle feeling (and looking) like a million dollars. IWED will be celebrating its fifth anniversary this year and the guestlist for the celebration will be filled to the brim with distinguished guests. Find over 100 wedding professionals including dress designers, wedding planners and cake artisans to help you plan out your perfect day. IWED 2012 begins on April 4th and runs until the 7th. www.qatar-expo.com

FEB

20

. sur la terre . the list .

4-7


th e scen e

Ferrari Scuderia Street Demo — T he fu n of f1 ru ns wild in doha —

To launch the 2nd Qatar Motor Show, Shell and Ferrari arranged a spectacular street demonstration of the Italian supercar maker’s F1 capabilities. For one windy day in late January, the Doha Corniche was transformed into the Monaco of the Middle East as the superpowered racing car completed nine laps of a specially closed-off section of the seafront road. Interspersed with pit stop demonstrations, burning rubber and screaming engines, it was an adrenaline-fuelled way to kick off the country’s premier motoring event.

22

. sur la terre . the scene .


th e scen e

Chi’Zen Launch Party — T he Taste of the middle kingdom comes to the middle east —

1

2

4

3

5

7

6 1. Kallie, Catherine, Sarah and Lauren 2. Yen, Charlie, Elaine and Davis 3. Marhaba team 4. Steve, Carole and Claudia 5. Oksana, Olga, Kallie, Oyan and Friends 6. Lydia and Neil Harvey 7. Walaa, Sahar, Vanessa and Ghada 8. Zhong jihou, Sean and Wangyi

24

8

. sur la terre . the scene .


* Discount granted on the purchase of 1 dining table plus 6 dining chairs minimum.

Souq Najed, Salwa Road - Doha, Qatar - Tel +974 4431 1843 - Mob + 974 7771 6238 www.ligne-roset.com - www.extrachair.com


tH e scen e

Al Baker Art Boutique Opens at The Gate — u N L O C K I NG T H E D O OR T O L O C A L FI N E A R T —

1

2

3

4

1. Mr Fahad Al Baker, owner of the Al Baker Art Boutique which has just opened at The Gate 2. Mr Issa Abu Issa with Mr. Sultan Al Abdulla, Mr. Dahlan Al Hamad, Mr Hussein Alfardan and Mr Fahad Al Baker 3. Mr Fahad Al Baker and Mr. Khalid Al Obaidan from The Emiri Dewan, chat to local media 4. Mr Hussein Alfardan cuts a celebratory cake inaugurating the Al Baker Art Boutique at The Gate 5. Mr. Hussein Alfardan with Mr. Dahlan Al Hamad, President of the Military Sports Federation

26

5

. sur la terre . the scene .


yo

ly

Fo

r

u r eyes o

WELCOME

n

To a world where money is no object and Cool comes at a price. A millionaire’s shopping list, FYEO gives you an iNSIDE track to the things you need to own.

worth the weight >>> If you are one of the many that have resolved to get back into shape in 2012, you might as well do it in style. Be the envy of all your fellow gym bunnies with these exotic and extremely luxurious weights from French company Keep In Shape, or KiS. Founded in 2007 by French National Body Fitness Champion, Bruno Fuscien-Trasan, the company’s goal is to take personal training and sport to “a whole new dimension and level of prolonged pleasure.” As well as skipping ropes, gym mats and sports gloves, among other accessories, KiS produces these stunning dumb-

28

bells, which are available in either 2.2kg or 3.4kg weights. Available in either black calfskin, Iris Blue ostrich skin and brown tan or pink crocodile skin (pictured), these objets d’body art are all hand-stitched with brass hand-polished bolts in finishes ranging from chrome, rhodium or gold-plated. Priced at around US$4,800, not only will these beautifully crafted dumb-bells help you shape up in style, they are guaranteed to help your wallet lose weight as well... www.kis-keepinshape.com

. sur la terre . for your eyes only .


yo

ly

Fo

r

u r eyes o

n

come fly with these >>> When Ray-Ban first created its iconic Aviator sunglasses in 1936, they were designed with one thing in mind, to protect one of the most precious things that early jet-setters relied upon: the eyesight of the Pan-Am airline pilots that would fly them to the globe’s exotic locations. Since then, the Aviator shape and style has been oft copied but never bettered; that is, until now. Giorgio Armani’s Precious Materials Collection of sunglasses not only continues the original mission set forth by the Ray-Ban Aviator to protect the wearer’s eyesight, but does so in opulent style using only the finest exotic materials, with each pair skillfully hand-finished by expert craftsmen. The Gold & Horn edition glasses (pictured) epitomise the collection completely, combining elegance and the handcrafting of two natural and precious materials; gold and Indian water buffalo horn. These new Armani aviators are plated in 5μ thick 22-carat gold, further embellished with a natural horn bridge and temple tips allowing for a perfect fit. The $1,350 shades are available exclusively in a champagne colour with dark green lenses, exquisitely packaged in a super-soft nappa leather case with a dark brown finish. As Pan-Am would say if they were still flying today: opulence makes all the difference... www.armani.com

ice breaker >>> Late last year, Juha Kankkunen entered the world-record books by driving a 6-litre, 12-cylinder Continental Supersports convertible on the perilous frozen Baltic Sea, off the coast of Finland, to achieve a record speed of 205.48 mph (330.695 km/h). To commemorate this blisteringly cool achievement, Bentley and Breitling have forged a hot new watch that looks ice cool and is guaranteed to melt the stoniest of silences at social gatherings. The Breitling For Bentley GT Racing Ice limited edition watch shares many of the same design cues as the extreme Bentley in which Kankkunen broke the ice driving record, from its distinctive red detailing to the carbon-fibre fascia with dashboard-style dial and the classically knurled finish on the control buttons. Employing a Breitling Calibre 27B chronometer-certified, self-winding movement in a titanium case with special engraving, a dial with carbon-fibre weave and a cambered sapphire crystal face. The $7,165 watch comes in a carbon-fibre presentation box with a unique identification plaque. www.breitlingforbentley.com

30

. sur la terre . for your eyes only .


yo

ly

Fo

r

u r eyes o

n

bons-iphone >>> If there is one thing, apart from oil and gas, that we have in abundance, it’s sunlight. While Doha is a Twilight fan’s nightmare, it is a boon for the Bond villains amongst us that want to harness the power of the sun for nefarious purposes... or maybe just to charge our smartphones and tablet computers. And that is just what this incredibly cool device, designed by Vivien Muller for French company, Electree, does. Equipped with 27 photovoltaic multi-directional cells and designed to look like a futuristic bonsai, the Electree uses light to charge a myriad electronic devices using just the the power of light. Energy produced by the panels during daylight is stored in a hidden battery in the base of the Electree which then feeds a USB port compatible with all fruit-based smart phones and most mp3 players. This fantastically eco-friendly office centrepiece is available online for just $380 and it’s delivered in modules which you have to assemble yourself, allowing you to customise the Electree to your own unique shape. www.electree.fr

guilty intuition >>> This incredibly sexy dining table from Koket is part of the company’s Guilty Pleasures Collection. The design-led furniture and fixtures firm is based in the US, but employs the skills of Portuguese master artisans and jewellers who work under the direction of Koket’s creative director, Janet Morais. “The Intuition Table” sports a strong feminine undertone and is meant to evoke the “mystery and complexity of feminine instincts.” The base of the table is crafted from a sensuous swirl of two-toned (pictured here in matte black

32

and gold) metal ribbon and, aside from the exterior portion, which is clad in a seductive matte black, the colours can be tailored from the bottom-up. The interior is offered in gold, pewter or copper, while the table top can be custom-made in black, bronze, clear or smoke glass. This $9,417 table is not only guaranteed to be the envy of your dinner guests, but will serve as a genuine objet d’art when it’s not holding the soup off the floor. www.bykoket.com

. sur la terre . for your eyes only .


yo

ly

Fo

r

u r eyes o

n

top fun >>> I am pretty sure that, given the opportunity, there are many of you out there who would jump at the chance to re-enact Tom Cruise’s role in the iconic ‘80s film Top Gun. No, I am not talking about the incredibly camp beach volleyball scene, but more along the lines of the death-defying, high-octane, close-quarters aerial combat. Well, thanks to Dream Days, a UAE-based gift experiences company, now you can. For the relatively small sum of $17,625, they will put you in the cockpit of a MiG-29 fighter-jet behind one of the Russian Air Force’s top flight test pilots as he performs adrenaline-pumping acrobatic stunts and pushes you past the sound barrier at speeds in excess of Mach 2, high above the Russian countryside. Dream Days will arrange the whole thing, including visas, business-class flights, accommodation, food and transfers to and from the Sokol Airbase in Nizhny Novgorod, Russia. The experience also includes an ejection seat simulator, photographs with the pilot, a certificate of achievement, sightseeing tours of the local area, services of a translator guide and a visit to the Aviation Museum at the Sokol Plant, home of the MiG aircraft. A perfect gift for the man, or woman, who has everything. www.dreamdays.ae

thunder ‘cat >>> Named after the legendary F6F Hellcat fighter plane of WWII, the X132 Hellcat is the latest two-wheeled terror to roll off the production line at US-based Confederate Motorcycles. This is a bike with a mission statement: “With the X132 Hellcat, we set out to build the toughest motorcycle ever made.” There is a big play of the Hellcat’s drag racing influence, with Confederate citing a three-inch diameter steel backbone frame and a “patented drag race powertrain” incorporating a vertical stack transmission. Hellcat components include Marzocchi forks, Pirelli Supercorsa tyres, a Beringer/Brembo brake system and Motogadget instrumentation. The 2163cc V-twin motor, delivers 132 bhp - which might not sound like much, but when coupled with the Hellcat’s relatively light 226kg kerb weight makes for a potentially thrilling ride. Style, speed and the opportunity to bask in the ownership glow of the most masculine motorbike on the road is a snip at just $45,000. www.confederate.com

34

. sur la terre . for your eyes only .


GlOBe trOtter

NightliFE

ShoppiNg

Just Cavalli Hollywood

OuKAN 71

Where: Milan, italy GPS: 45° 28’ 22.92” n, 9° 10’ 21.22” e

Where: BeRlin, geRMany GPS: 52° 30’ 40.72” n, 13° 23’ 15.90” e

With Cavalli Hotels and and Cavalli Clubs popping up at all the hottest locations in the world, it’s no surprise that the sun-kissed Italian designer has a nightspot closer to home as well. Just Cavalli Hollywood is located in Parco Sempione, in Italy’s fashion capital of Milan, and is situated at the foot of the Torre Branca, a tower designed by Giò Ponti as one of the attractions at the Triennale architecture show in the 1930s. At that time, the tower was highly innovative. and today it is considered a true work of art, meaning that Just Cavalli Hollywood is fully justified in standing alongside the Tower. Recently given a new look on its interior design, with consultancy from architect Daniele Beretta, the main space has a semicircular structure in steel, with walls and ceilings in plate glass and floors in teak. Inside, colours are principally black, with the animaliermotif cushions that have become a hallmark of the Cavalli style. Beretta has also introduced bronzed mirrors in attractive surrounds constructed in gloss-enamelled timber. All this combines with a high-tech audio and lighting system, and fibre-optic mini-spotlights to create a mellow lounge and chill-out area, but becomes the ideal setting for after-dinner drinks and dancing. In the summer months, Just Cavalli Hollywood can host up to 1,200 people with an outdoor area covered by tension-structure canopies, with two dancefloors, three bars and three privé areas. It is popular for private events and buffet functions, and is regularly frequented by A-list celebrities and Milan’s social elite. Just Cavalli Hollywood is an ideal party venue after long hours slaving over a hot runway at Fashion Week. www.justcavallihollywood.it

An intriguing addition to the sophisticated shopping area around Friedrichstraße in Berlin, OuKAN 71 combines a fashion shop and art showroom with a tea room and restaurant. Japanese for crown, OuKAN 71 is fittingly located at number 71 Kronenstraße (Crown Street) and has a fascinating story. When the earthquake and tsunami cancelled Tokyo Fashion Week in March last year, a group of Japanese designers were looking for a place to showcase their work. Berlin answered, and a charity project, Tokyo Gakudan (Tokyo Orchestra), was presented at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Berlin in July 2011, with 40 Japanese designers showing their collections. Natalie Viaux and Huy Thong Tran Mai were responsible for the Tokyo Gakudan Runway Show at the Mercedes-Benz Studio. They are also the masterminds behind OuKAN 71, which itself was inspired by the fashion show. On two open-concept floors, OuKAN 71 offers a constantly changing selection of fashion, accessories and design, much of it currently Scandinavian, but all with a Japanese feel. The Tea Bar Restaurant serves raw, vegan, vegetarian and fish breakfast and lunch dishes by chef-patissier Eriko Ohsawa, formerly of Tim Raue’s MA and uMA restaurants. The Friedrichstraße shopping district straddles the former East/West divide where Berlin was once bissected by the Berlin Wall, so next time you visit Germany’s most cosmopolitan city, experience and revel in the flair of this modern artistic axis where Far East meets West. www.oukan71.com

36

. sur la terre . globe trotter .


GLOB E TR OTTER

HOTEL

restaurant

Crosby Street Hotel

Concrete Blonde

Where: SoHo, New York GPS: 40° 43’ 23.03” N, 73° 59’ 51.26” W

Where: Sydney Australia GPS: 33° 52’ 30.1 0” S, 151° 13’ 26.23” E

Along one of the hippest shopping streets in Soho, you will find the Crosby Street Hotel, which makes up a series of cozy design spaces with the feel of private living rooms adorned with an honour bar for hotel guests only, as well as the Crosby Bar, an upscale, pub-minded eatery cast with a long pewter bar set into ashy oak floors. Popular with the likes of Agyness Deyn and Sofia Coppola, the hotel is run by Londonbased boutique hotel company, Firmdale. Crosby Street’s interior design is imagined by Firmdale co-owner, Kit Kemp, who delivers her stylish hocus-pocus over an outdoor garden, drawing room, gym and a 100-seat screening theatre room, much like the one found at Soho Hotel. Utilising the latest in environmental building materials and recycled products, the hotel maintains a Gold LEED status. Eighty-five rooms, individually designed in a loft interpretation of floor-to-ceiling warehouse style windows are laced with the latest electronic gadgetry await, bathed in feminine yellow and green colours which offset the industrial floor-toceiling windows and masculine marble bathrooms. If you want to live the New York hipster dream on your next visit to the Big Apple, then this is the place to do it in style and luxury. We are sure you will find someone else in the honour bar that agrees with you that the latest Fleet Foxes album is so terribly mainstream... www.firmdale.com

Concrete Blonde is a 100-seat restaurant presided over by chef Patrick Dang who has brought the many nuances of his international experience to the stylish tables of the salubrious Kings Cross district of Australia’s most cosmopolitan city. Coupled with his culinary skills, Dreamtime Design’s interior makes for a perfect dining experience south of the equator. The stunning fireplace, the Lichtenstein-esque mural and the clever metal “tin-can” wall slots for firewood vie with each other to create a space that it is both retro and industrial at the same time. As it should be, the best feature of Concrete Blonde is the food. There are many options, and the menu changes frequently; the chefs here excel at experimenting and improvising while focusing on freshness and local produce. The creativity pearmeates this eatery from the decor and cocktails served in jam jars, to the names of the dishes, with the amusingly-titled Kentucky Fried Quail (KFQ) cocking a snook at the Aussie obsession with the eponymous fast food chain. Concrete Blonde is definitely, as the Aussies would say, “well worth a squiz to hop into some grub.” www.concreteblonderestaurant.com.au

38

. sur la terre . globe trotter .


GlOBe trOtter

Where: new yoRk WhAT: cindy SHeRMan eXHiBition, MuSeuM of ModeRn aRt WheN: fRoM 26 feBRuaRy to 11 June 2012 www.moma.org

Where: waSHington d.c. WhAT: national cHeRRy BloSSoM feStival WheN: MaRcH 20 to aPRil 27 www.nationalcherryblossomfestival.org

Where: MadRid WhAT: MaRc cHagall eXHiBition, tHySSen-BoRneMiSZa MuSeuM WheN: fRoM 14 feBRuaRy to 20 May 2012

global gathEriNgS www.museothyssen.org

Global Gatherings is your at-a-glance map of magnificence, directing you to all of the culturally essential, entertaining and luxurious events and happenings that will be taking place across the world (or perhaps, we should say, “sur la terre”) over the coming months.

40

. sur la terre . globe trotter .


Where: PaRiS WhAT: faSHion week WheN: fRoM 28 feBRuaRy to 8 MaRcH 2012

Where: BeRlin WhAT: 62nd BeRlinale WheN: fRoM 9 to 19 feBRuaRy 2012

www.modeaparis.com

www.berlinale.de/en

Where: aMSteRdaM WhAT: Queen’S day WheN: aPRil 30

Where: geneva WhAT: tHe 82nd geneva MotoR SHow WheN: fRoM 8 to 18 MaRcH www.salon-auto.ch/en

Where: Milan WhAT: faSHion week WheN: fRoM 22 to 28 feBRuaRy 2012 www.cameramoda.it

Where: doHa RugBy cluB WhAT: St david’S day celeBRation dinneR WheN: 1 MaRcH cymruyncatar@live.co.uk

Where: JeReZ de la fRonteRa WhAT: feStival de JeReZ WheN: 24 feBRuaRy to MaRcH 10 www.jerez.es

. sur la terre . globe trotter .

41


r evu e th e atr e

Tricky Dick: Richard III gets the Dohallywood Treatment Four Pearls: For brightening the winter of our discontent. “ M y conscience hath a thousand several tongu es , A nd every tongu e brings in a several tale , A nd every tale condemns me for a villain .� - R ichard I I I -

42

. sur la terre . revue .


As the quote opposite suggests, Richard III is a delicious and dastardly beast. As one of Shakespeare’s longest and most complex forays into historical theatre, it is, in many ways, one of his most difficult plays to execute, much less follow. In many others, however, it is his most raw and rewarding, whether as a stand-alone work or as the tragic culmination of the first tetralogy within his “War of the Roses” series of history plays. In Richard III, the audience is led to a tainted cup, and forced by its insatiable anti-hero to relish the poison in its wine. Getting first drunk on his rise as the title character mercilessly slaughters friends and family alike to become King of England, we shortly get sick on the fate of his fall. All the while, we act as his unwilling confidants as he addresses us directly from the stage, filling us in on his nefarious plans and self-loathing neuroses, and implicating us within both. It is a device Shakespeare uses somewhat sparingly in his work, but in Richard III, allows a firsthand glimpse into madness. In modern terms, this might be a bit like reading the “tweets” of a brutally honest Muammar Gaddafi in the twilight of his rule; you may not want to, but you are forced to “follow.” That comparison, which has been made before in reference to this production especially, shows that Richard III is the quintessential human story about the lust for and corruption of power, and how we, the audience, are drawn inescapably into the plot. In fact, it is because of this universal, timeless appeal that it is the perfect curtain-call on a year rife with the revolution of people and the godfall of leaders, particularly within the Arab world. Perhaps then it is no surprise that the Doha Film Institute (DFI) chose this modernised production of Richard III as 2011’s year-end theatrical event ... then again, maybe it was simply all about its star power. Through his Bridge Project, director Sam Mendes (American Beauty, Road to Perdition) has, for three years, brought together the formidable talents of British and American actors to tour the world with the most beloved theatrical productions of all time. This production of Richard III, in which he unifies the Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM) and The Old Vic in London, was not only the latest, but perhaps most ambitious of the lot. In the end, we were left to wonder (excitedly) whether Mendes’ “crazy, brilliant experiment” would continue to pay off, or if his reunion with the similarly Academy Award-winning Kevin Spacey (American Beauty, Seven) would darken under the weight of the play’s density and pale beneath its own limelight. Any base fears we had, however, were dashed on the imagined rocks in the main character’s drink as he delivered the play’s iconic opening soliloquy in a boozy swagger under the flickering televisual images of a bygone revolution.

Cast before a dynamic and spatially engaging set designed by Olivier Award winner Tom Piper, Richard addresses us, slumped in a heavy yet predatory heap beneath the word “NOW” (the first line of the play, but also a knowing nod to this production’s setting), and his characterisation is almost immediately made clear. Spacey’s Richard is, in a word, genius. Vaguely similar, but in no way identical to the luminaries that tackled the role before him (Laurence Olivier’s smarmy, confident slither; Sir Ian McCellan’s vitriolic villainy), Spacey’s evil may be more comically conversational, but it still makes your skin crawl ... with wanton glee. The character has often been seen as a sickly jackal amongst proud lions, but Spacey here proves to be an even more lecherous scavenger, tapering back Richard’s usual indomitable lust with something distinctly more abominable, and he does so with the psychology and physicality of a bloodthirsty leper on amphetamines. Spacey reportedly stopped smoking and drinking so he could pour himself completely into the role, and the sheer force of will by which he slung himself around the stage was both palpable and exhausting, even for the audience sitting throughout the Qatar National Convention Centre. The way he lumbers his hunchback, lame frame (Richard’s ambiguous deformity here is a leg handicap) with the aid of a thudding black cane gives him the grotesque, talon-scraping gait of a starved buzzard, moving with an energy that is as disgusting as it is infectious, like a wet cough. At the same time, Spacey proves a master of range, and expertly employs the all too important “subtle-when-necessary” strategy so famous of the character. Even his asides seem to have asides, and become more like in-jokes, which he shares with the audience and a wink. Of course, a play should be more than just one role, and while Spacey vastly outshines his castmates, there are two roles that stuck out from under his impressive shadow during the performance. Chuk Iwuji’s traitorous turn as the glad-handing Duke of Buckingham was especially exceptional, if not unnervingly endearing, while Haydn Gwyne’s Queen Elizabeth, wife of the ill-fated King Edward IV (brother to Richard), and mother to his children (murdered by Richard), stirred woefully in the vehemence of her righteous indignation. The remainder of the cast was, at best, adequate in its supportive role, and at worst, mostly harmless. Saying that, Richard III is more character than history driven, and the others were there in the capacity they were meant to be, which is to say, a backdrop for Richard’s machinations. The star of the show was, well, the star of the show, and while its 3+ hour running time was a bit long (although expected for Shakespeare’s second lengthiest play), it was well-worth the cramped knees and back to see Kevin Spacey, in the words of his eponymous character, “prove a villain.”

. sur la terre . revue .

43


r evu e Tr ave l

Dream Machine Three and half Pearls: For promising a much-improved flying experience from summer 2012, but still being two years late in arriving. James Mc C arth y and H erbert V illadelrey take a joy ride over Q atar on the new Boeing 78 7 Dreamliner . -

It has been a long time coming, but the Boeing 787 Dreamliner finally touched down in Doha to take part in Qatar’s National Day 2011 celebrations. This much-anticipated aircraft from the US aviation giant has not endured the smoothest take-off, beset with production delays and manufacturing issues from the earliest stage. However, as we coasted high over West Bay on the aircraft’s demonstration flight out of Doha, these issues seem a lifetime away. “There were many issues that pushed us into a two-year production delay,” one Boeing representative explained. “The main problem was subcontractors; the wings were being built in one part of the world, while the tail section in another. The quality standards, and in some cases the specifications, were not being met.

44

To solve some of the problems, Boeing actually bought out one of the subcontractors in order to get things up to speed.” And up to speed they most certainly are. After enduring all the criticism from disgruntled customers and the aviation media, Boeing is on the brink of delivering the first of the 800 787s that are on order to as many as 55 global airlines, one of which is our very own national carrier, Qatar Airways. By the summer of this year, the first of the 787s to bear the now famous Oryx livery will be flying the friendly skies and jetting Sur la Terreans off to the myriad exotic locations and growing list of major destinations which QA services.

. sur la terre . revue .


And what an experience it will be, as the 787 Dreamliner is unlike any other plane in its class. It is the first mid-size aeroplane capable of flying long-range routes and will allow airlines, such as Qatar Airways, to open new, longer non-stop routes. This is due, in part to the incredible weight savings made through the use of carbon-composite materials, many of which have been developed in conjunction with Italian supercar manufacturer, Lamborghini Automobili, and make up for nearly 50% of the aircraft’s structure, including the fuselage and wing. Additionally, new super fuel-efficient engines from Rolls-Royce, which the company claims represent a “nearly two-generation jump in technology,” will result in 20% drop in fuel usage when compared to simlar-sized jets, are one of the biggest contributors to overall fuel and economic efficiency of the aircraft. But there are also the interior details, which not only add to the weight savings, but make the passenger experience better than ever. Firstly are the windows. These are singularly the most impressive additions, as they are not only bigger, allowing more visibility and light into the cabin, but they no longer have pull-down shades. Instead, with the touch of a button, the glass itself will gradually turn black, thanks to patented technology which works in a similar way to the liquid crystals in your flatscreen TV. The window is filled with an electrochromatic material, which when applied with a low voltage electrical charge will agitate and change colour. This offers numerous benefits, we are told, not least saving the weight of nearly two passengers by losing the window blinds, but also allowing the cabin to be much darker than before. Of course, these can be controlled from the cockpit too, where the pilot can light, or dim, the entire cabin with the flick of a switch. There is also the interior mood lighting. Arrays of energy-efficient light emitting diodes (LEDs) can be fully controlled by the cabin crew to different levels of brightness and a number of different colours. Flight attendants can give passengers a sense of daylight when desired, and when they want to help passengers rest, simulate a beautiful nighttime sky. We were treated to a light show that Jean-Michel Jarre would have been proud of, as the full range of lighting options were demonstrated. I am pretty sure when John Travolta swaps in his Boeing 707 for a personalised Dreamliner, he will be replicating the disco scenes from Saturday Night Fever when he is not at the flight controls. Boeing also promises an improved flight experience through the use of turbulance moderation technologies that will make for a smoother ride through rough weather, while more attention has been paid to both the level and quality of noise within the cabin. Boeing and its partners have developed innovative solutions to address this, including the use of serrated “chevrons” as part of the nacelle design that disperse noise both inside and out, making it easier to comply with strict environmental noise regulations in place around some of the world’s major airports. We were told that the plane had been given the go ahead to land at night in a number of airports where this was previously not possible due to noise controls, offering airlines greater route flexibility. With our airborne steed being a test plane, there were many areas of the cabin that had not been soundproofed, but the business and first class areas, and even in the cockpit, it was possible to have an entirely whispered conversation. All in all, for someone that flew over 33,500 miles in name of Sur la Terre in 2011, such seemingly minor details make a massive difference. While everyone is looking forward to QA taking delivery of the immense, multi-storey Airbus A380, which will reportedly be packed with every conceivable luxury for its premium passengers, the Boeing 787 Dreamliner will offer a much improved long-haul experience on more routes under ten hours - meaning that the red-eye to Singapore or early morning take-off to Heathrow will be a far less daunting prospect for me.

. sur la terre . revue .

45


r evu e fi l m

Qatar Discovery Five Pearls: For capturing the art in Qatar. W hile the Su r la T erre editorial team may be a little loathe to admit it, the phrase “a pict u re is worth a thousand words ” is clich éd for a reason , and we have j ust witnessed perhaps the most shining example of its meaning in a new, locally- produced film called Qatar Discovery . -

Qatar Discovery is the result of an unprecedented international collaboration, the result of which has produced, without question, the most dazzling visual ode ever to be made for the State of Qatar. Produced by Mohamed Jaidah and Johan Madarasz, and directed by Julien Le Goff, Qatar Discovery gathers together three months of solid shooting throughout the entire country, capturing the spirit of variety within the state’s different worlds and distilling the myth and presence therein into what is sure to be an award-winning film. There is something spectacularly elegant in Qatar Discovery’s approach to telling the story of its namesake, and it lies within the film’s gorgeous simplicity.

46

. sur la terre . revue .


PRODUCT AVAILABILITY Qatar Discovery will be available both locally and regionally from February, priced at QR90 (or local equivalent). www.qatar-discovery.com

Told in a tale of four chapters, this quest is presented as a life in a series of days. In each, we the audience are allowed to explore in exclusive videos, every whisper of what makes Qatar the breathtaking country it has become within the international ether. Beginning with a lesson in legacy and tradition, we join the morning with corniche fishermen, plying their trade on the decks of the iconic dhow. We then move onto an exploratory excursion via long, evocative shots of Qatar’s ruins, taking time to enjoy them with the local wildlife, such as falcons, horses and of course, camels. Day two is met with a sun that melts its gilded rise over the seemingly endless Qatar landscape of sand, sea and all points between, giving us access to a day of incredible sights in, outside of and around town. We finally relax in a climax alongside a long sunset ride as it slowly shadows the picturesque peaks and metallic valleys of Doha’s shared tradition and modernity. The third and fourth days of the adventure take us through an intense trip through deserts and Doha dreams, all married into a picturesque ode of lingering time lapses and the art of natural photography. This is all punctuated by one of the most emotionally evocative soundtracks we have listened to in a very long time. The songs, which decant over the images in quiet waves, slip the story between the enigmatic and soul-chilling haunt of traditional Arabic chants and some cleverly chilled-out covers of classic songs, such as “Walking on Sunshine,” “You Can’t Hurry Love,” “I Want You Back” and “Dance with Me.” The latter are proffered here exclusively by some of the best performers on the independent music scene in recent years, such as French Lounge and Nouvelle Vague. That may sound like a strange mix, but the end result is a heady cascade into a deeply calming yet surprisingly airy resonance. As with any piece of art, Qatar Discovery is not something you simply sit and watch; it must be absorbed. To do that, we suggest popping in the DVD during a dinner party and using it to season the background of your get-together with a visual and auditory odyssey. This is the Qatar you will wish to remember and celebrate for its unique beauty and spirit. The guys at EMI Publishing have really outdone themselves with this effort to painstakingly bring to life what makes this country, and indeed this film, a true masterpiece.

. sur la terre . revue .

47


“ S t u dy a lifetime and you see different colou rs from the same jewel .� - R i c h a r d B a c h


TAG, you’re it.

u p close a n d per so n a l

50

. sur la terre . up close and personal .


Jean-Christophe Babin -

Jean-Christophe Babin, the worldwide chief executive officer of Swiss luxury watchmaker, TAG Heuer, speaks exclusively to Miles Masterson about the luxury watch market and the brand’s ever-growing popularity in Qatar. -

T

AG Heuer is increasing its presence in the Middle East. Can you talk us through a few of the reasons why this is and how you plan to go about expanding the brand in the region in the future? The Middle East has always been a very strategic market for TAG Heuer having been one of the pioneering regions to have opened one of the first [standalone] boutiques for the brand. Today we are present in over nine countries with our standalone boutique concept, which shows where we have placed the region in our roadmap. We are now more and more visible and will continue to be so in 2012 onwards by reinforcing our presence in Duty Free, and last but not least, by continuing our expansion by opening our first boutique in Rashid Mall in Al Khobar in Saudi Arabia. It seems that the greater Middle East and South East Asian region is part of TAG Heuer’s global growth strategy, particularly the Indian subcontinent, which you have said might be the backbone of the company by 2020. The middle class in India has grown considerably in the past 10 years and we know that this segment of the population is the drive to a country’s growth. Having noticed this, TAG Heuer started building the brand image [there] as early as possible. The [Indian] government is also trying to help the luxury segment to expand as import tax on luxury goods is now being looked at closely. We really hope that they will reduce it soon as it is the main bottleneck for us at the moment.

Has the uncertain and pessimistic global market affected the luxury watch market in general and TAG Heuer specifically, or is the luxury market somewhat insulated by the high net worth of its clientele? The 2009 crisis hurt the whole economy, including the watchmaking industry. But we recovered completely and today, we are growing within a growing market. However, this situation is partially due to China and Hong Kong.Travel retail has also become more and more important, and Dubai is an interesting example of this. I think speed is key when leading any company during a crisis: react quickly, move fast. Another strategy in tough times is to continue to innovate, create, pioneer, in order to propose the best offer and to be ready to come back strongly when times are better.

This is exactly what we did at TAG Heuer with breakthroughs such as the Monaco 24, launched at the Basel Fair in 2009 and still successful today. We also continued our investments in the new in-house chronograph movement, and launched the Carrera 1887 in early 2010. How has TAG Heuer adopted the “think local, act globally” mindset in an increasingly international marketplace, in particular to separate itself from its competitors? We are in an industry where we can’t act too locally. We propose the same prestigious collections of watches and chronographs everywhere, carrying our DNA of innovation, performance and precision. However, we have five different major ranges: TAG Heuer Formula 1, AquaRacer, Link, Carrera and Monaco. The mix between these five pillars is different from one country to the other. For example, in the UAE, the [portion of sales] of the AquaRacer is at 39 percent while in China only 10.5 percent of the volume is generated by this range. On top of that, we sometimes offer tactically limited editions for one country. As an example, we created an Indian Racing limited edition to celebrate the first F1 Grand Prix in Delhi. It sold out during the weekend! In conclusion, I think a luxury brand has to carry the same image and products everywhere. However, we can afford some local tactical operations. How much does digital and social media play a role in reinforcing the brand presence, PR, customer service and marketing of TAG Heuer in the luxury goods market? Are most clientele in this market perhaps of an older age group and thus less likely to use digital/social media, or is your audience also comprised of younger people who would be more likely to interact with TAG Heuer that way? Today the world is turning digital, not only the young generation. Social media is key among our PR tools. We are the leading watch brand on Facebook with 350,000 fans. We were the first to launch a page on Google+. We also tweet during TAG Heuer events. We care about bloggers in the same way that we care about print media. T.A.G. means “Technique d’Avant Garde;” with such a name, we can’t ignore these new tools.

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

51


Does this include digital and social media in the Middle East, especially in countries such as Qatar and the UAE, which are renowned high-volume YouTube, Facebook and Twitter users, many of them under 25 years old? The Middle East is not left behind in our international social media campaign. We launched our Facebook fanpage for the region in mid-October 2011. In less than a month, we had already reached over a thousand fans and we are aiming to reach over 40,000 fans by end of 2012. Our fans will be able to discover brand novelties, attend exclusive events and be rewarded for their affinity regularly, all developed exclusively for them. Social media is giving us a more interactive way in which to communicate and we will be more and more attractive to this very demanding audience for sure. Having visited the region, what are your personal feelings towards the Middle East market and how optimistic and excited are you about the future growth of the TAG Heuer brand here? The region, as always, intrigues me with its ability to have united so well the East and the West, and by having placed itself as a major crossroads that no international brand can ignore. It has also shown to the world that it has the capacity to resist and adjust to a tougher environment and reboost itself after the crisis. TAG Heuer is quite involved in motorsports worldwide and in the UAE. Qatar is a growing motorsports destination, so can we expect more involvement from TAG Heuer here in the future? As you may know, we have been one of the official sponsors of the Dubai Desert Challenge for the past five years, and will definitely be looking at other suitable sponsorships in the future in the region and in Qatar specifically, especially considering that the country is positioning itself as a strategic place for sport development with their sport academy at Aspire and having won the bid for the 2022 FIFA World Cup. People in the Middle East are renowned for their appreciation of the finer things in life. What new TAG Heuer products are coming to the market in the near-future that the Middle East and Qatar can look forward to? Our latest novelties are now available in the whole Middle East, inclusive of Qatar, including our in-house chronograph movement, the Carrera 1887, winner of the Grand Prix de Geneve of Haute Horlogerie in 2010. And for our feminine audience we have just delivered a very high-end watch which should match the taste of the Middle Eastern and more international clientele – the new TAG Heuer Formula 1 Ceramic Paved diamonds timepiece.

This interview first appeared in the December 2011 issue of Qatar business magazine, TheEDGE.

52

. sur la terre . up close and personal .


CAN’T WAIT FOR

THE WEEKEND?

DON’T.

2012 CAMARO CONVERTIBLE | UNLIMIT EVERY MOMENT


The Brand Champion

u p close a n d per so n a l

54

. sur la terre . up close and personal .


Roger Federer -

He is one of the world’s most recognisible sport stars and has achieved unprecedented success on and off the tennis court. He is also a leading brand ambassador for one of the world’s most prestigious watch manufacturers, Rolex. With help from the Qatar Tennis Federation, following his appearance at the Qatar ExxonMobil Open in January, the tennis ace served up an exclusive interview with Sur la Terre . -

A

fter some extremely close matches during the year, how did it feel to close out 2011 with major wins at the BNP Masters and Barclays ATP World Tour? It was a very interesting season in 2011, there were highs and lows as you sometimes have. I had some particularly tough losses in some of the big tournaments, as well, but I also had a lot of nice wins, such as the Djokovic match in Paris, which obviously stands out for me, as do the good match I had in Australia with Gilles Simon or the good finals I had against Rafa at the French Open and the World Tour Finals. But it was just nice to close it out in style in London. I played some of my best tennis against some of the best players and I was able to come through again for the sixth time for the World Tour Finals. It’s a great feeling to still be able to beat some of the top guys at the close of a very long season. Your rivalries with both Novak Djokovic and Rafael Nadal have certainly intensified this year. How do you plan to overcome them on the court? We have always had good matches in the past against each other. I have played more than twenty times against both of them. Novak being the world Number One right now, he has had the best season in 2011 and his forty match winning streak was amazing. With Rafa again winning the French Open, they have proven that they are the guys to beat. I am very close in the rankings with both of them after my good finish, and I hope I can stay with them, if not get better than them in the new season. I am sure Andy Murray will also have something to say this season, as well as a lot of good players ranked between five and 15 who have great chances to make a move. I am talking about the likes of Jo-Wilfred Tsonga, Gael Monfils or Juan Martin Del Potro, for instance. There is a good group of talent behind us and I am sure it is going to be a tough and competitive season coming up.

The Qatar Open is always quite a big event here in Doha, but for someone who plays the best courts all over the world, what makes playing in Qatar a particularly unique experience? The unique experience about Qatar is that it has a good date at the start of the year, so there is a lot of excitement about starting a new season, and the Qatar Tennis Federation make it special for the players; it really feels like a oncein-a-lifetime experience. We are welcomed with open arms, with amazing hospitality, and there is a feeling that we are all family during the tournament and that makes it very special. For me, I have come here many times, and this year is the tournament’s 20th anniversary. I first played here about nine or ten years ago and I have seen the changes; the Ladies World Tour Finals, for instance, has improved the standing of the sport here and the stadium facilities. I think it has been a really great tournament and I am happy that we have it in the week we do. You have accomplished so much over your career: 16 Grand Slam titles, 6 World ATP World Tour Finals and an Olympic Gold Medal. What is left on your bucket list to accomplish on or off the court? I would like to achieve many more things in my life, but I don’t have to win every particular thing to feel like it is a complete career. I have already achieved so much more than I ever thought was possible; but of course, I wouldn’t say no to an Olympic Gold in singles, another Wimbledon title or to a French Open title and so forth. I mean, it is one after another, and I will be happy as long as I am able to play good tennis, I am able to break records, equal the achievements of great players before me or do something that nobody else has done before. At the same time, I am also able to compete with the new generation coming up, which is always very interesting when I am playing well.

. sur la terre . up close and personal .

55


“To be associated with such a world class brand [Rolex] and everything it represents, has made me very proud.” What is your favourite tournament? Which one do you look forward to the most and why? Every one I play. Obviously, playing a Grand Slam is different to playing Doha, because here you have 50 players, but at Wimbledon you have 500 players, so the feeling is completely different and you can’t compare; and I don’t want to compare these two events. For me, sometimes I like the smaller settings more, because you feel closer to the tournament directors, everybody has a bit more time, there are less matches so everyone has a bit more focus on, say, one particular game. But, of course, the bigger tournaments can be nice because there are so many great players and so many fans; it makes for a nice change. Wimbledon for me remains my number one tournament, but there are many more that I absolutely love and those are the ones I keep on playing. You are the latest in a long line of exceptional Rolex brand ambassadors, how did that partnership come about? What is it that most attracts you to the brand? Rolex has been a great partner of mine. I signed with them a long long time ago, when I was still a teenager, and they have been a great supporter over the years. I am very thankful because they love their tennis, and their sports in general, and to be associated with such a world class brand and everything it represents, has made me very proud. Also, with the Swiss connection, I think that is something that both parties enjoy because we look to portray the brand and its nationality in a good way throughout the world. Rolex is so well known that it is really a joy working together with the company, and being among the ranks of other great individuals, as one of its brand ambassadors. Rolex is available in Doha exclusively through Fifty One East at Salwa Road, City Centre Mall, and, of course, at the flagship store in Lagoona Mall.

56

. sur la terre . up close and personal .


B E AUTY

a new

dimension

S tyling Gloria S torchi

and

Samantha C olocci with the collaboration of Roberto Ciapani Photographer S tefano R affa

and

Federico T oretti

Eye contour gel, anti-bags, anti-rings, Clarins ; Re-Plasty, age recovery, Helena Rubinstein ; Copper Touch, Sisley; 777 Les Rouges Or, Rouge Dior; Passion, Palette Teint, Clarins ; Skin Caviar Luxe Cream, La Prairie

58

. sur la terre . beauty .


Prada Candy, fragrance for women ; Carita , Progressif A nti – Age Global, The perfect body cream new generation ; Rouge Prodige 131 Passion rose, Clarins ; 611 Exquis, Dior Vernis ; Creme Caviar Luxe, lifting eye, La Prairie; Palette Noir Terriblement , papers paint, Y ves Saint Laurent; Silver R ain, essence, La Prairie

. sur la terre . beauty .

59


L’Essence, fragrance for women, Balenciaga Paris; 8 88, fragrance COMME des GARCONS; Miss Dior, essence Edition Couture, Dior; 651 Marveille, Dior Vernis; Fluide de Beauté 14 pailleté, Carita Paris; Essence Cristalline Dermo Caviar, La Prairie

60

. sur la terre . beauty .


fe at u r e

cult classic From John F. Kennedy to Warren Beatty, Grace kelly to Michelle Obama, fans of the Cartier Tank have one thing in common – they all share an unabiding love for luxury that is refined, stripped of unnecessary artifice, and are wholly committed to sheer classic, understated sophistication.

M

ichelle Obama poses for her first official portrait as First Lady of the United States. It’s a historic moment, and this thoroughly modern, accomplished woman has selected her outfit carefully. A sleeveless black Michael Kors sheath to show off those fantastic long, strong arms, a double strand of pearls, and a Cartier Tank wristwatch. It’s possibly no coincidence that Michelle has been likened to another First Lady, Jacqueline Kennedy, thanks in large part to her singular sense of style and impact on the wardrobes of American women.

But while both women certainly share a devotion to little black dresses and bouffant hairstyles, Jackie’s expensive fashion sensibility did not quite traverse the same democratic waters as that of J.Crew-loving Michelle. Yet, there is one luxury brand that each of them chose to adorn themselves with during their most photographed and scrutinised periods – the Cartier Tank, not just an icon, but an archetype, the original ideal and perfect specimen of a wristwatch. Despite living at the same Washington DC address almost fifty years apart, both Jackie Kennedy and Michelle Obama – along with a host of other high profile devotees since 1919 – selected the one timepiece that could be considered the height of classic chic in each of their eras.

Jackie O.. .

62

. sur la terre . feature .

Michelle obama .


. sur la terre . feature .

63


Birth of a legend In the beginning, there was no Cartier Tank – well, that is, it didn’t have a name. It was merely an answer to the question: How will men who need both hands free tell the time? Although technically the Tank wasn’t the first documented wristwatch, or even Cartier’s first wristwatch, it was the first to solve the problem that consumed Louis Cartier: how to attach a face to a band with complete conceptual integrity. It was thus the first timepiece conceived originally as a wristwatch with design and comfort in mind, an aesthetic solution to the quest to make a watch that wasn’t merely a small pocketwatch on a strap. As the 19th century turned into the 20th century, the world was awash with change and a new way of life – from telephones and automobiles to airplanes – and watchmakers were not concerned with style. Explains Sam Hines, vice president and head of the watch department at Christie’s in New York, “Their concerns were: How is the watch running? How is it performing in this test or that exhibition? Cartier, being a jeweller, had an advantage because he was concerned with the design, how it would look on one’s wrist.” During a period of Art Nouveau, Cartier instead favoured clean geometries and linear restraint. As Pierre Rainero, Cartier International’s head of image, style and heritage, confirms, “Louis Cartier was totally against Art Nouveau. Totally against! Because he thought it was a dead-end street for style. No evolution. And at Cartier everything we do in terms of design should be an open door to other possibilities.” Indeed, the design of the Tank was unlike anything anyone had ever seen. There were no curves on the watch at all, the face was a perfect square and the bracelet flowed into the case seamlessly. An ultra-modern design back in 1919, it was born during a time when artistic movements such as Cubism, Bauhaus and futurism caught fire. Cartier brought the very beginning of modernism deep into the watch’s design – undecorated, unapologetically industrial, the idea that “less is more” – and within months of being placed in the Paris salon’s window, it had a name: the Tank. It was not sold as the “Tank” watch, says Rainero, “which would have been perceived as very provocative” –  this was, after all, just after the end of the First World War – “The customer would come to Cartier and buy the rectangular watch, and that was it. [But] it was our internal vocabulary, yes. Because every time we design an object, we name it. Nobody knows who starts the name. It can be a designer, it can be a worker – an allusion to, or a comparison made.” Legend has it that Louis was influenced by the Great War’s tanks, and created it for General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force as a token of appreciation for his role in the Allied victory. And while it’s true that the watch’s brancards are like the parallel treads of a tank, historians remain unconvinced, saying that the Tank merely evolved from the Santos watch, Cartier’s first wristwatch created in 1904 for Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian pioneer of aviation and heir to a coffee fortune. Opines Franco Cologni, author of Cartier: The Tank Watch, “That’s a legend. The Tank followed the design of the Santos watch – it was an evolution of style. But Louis Cartier was not a stupid man. He was a salesman, a PR man… so he said it was copied from a tank”, a point driven home by the fact that the Tank prototype was given by Louis to General Pershing.

64

The Santos was powerful and masculine in style, with screws spaced like rivets around the bezel and brancards that hugged the band. Yet, unlike the Tank, the Santos had curves at each corner. The Tank, in contrast, banished those curves, its face a perfect square, with the band the exact same width as the face, and all elements held in suspension between two parallel brancards.

Most wanted “When you see the Santos and the Tank,” confirms Rainero, “you see that the Tank is an incredible progression in terms of purity of design. Because there’s not that curve anymore. It’s just straight bars. It’s such a simple idea, but so bright and so obvious when you see the object.” The appeal of the Tank soon grew beyond military quarters. It even made its big-screen debut in 1926, when actor, Rudolph Valentino, famously wore the watch in the silent film, Son of the Sheik, singlehandedly making pocketwatches passé. In 1919, a mere six Tank watches were produced, the following year, 33. Yet until the 1960s, fewer than 100 new Tanks were produced most years. This goes some way to explaining how the vintage styles today are able to launch furious bidding wars at the world’s top auction houses. “A platinum top with a pink-gold back, because of the rarity and ultimate chicness of it,” says Sotheby’s worldwide head of watches, Daryn Schniper, describing the auction house’s most-wanted style. “It gives you that whole Cartier mystique. Should Tanks arrive where there’s some enamel, the 30s… anything that’s a little bit different.” Created in gold (yellow, white and pink) or platinum or both, there are many variations of the Tank, some more elaborate than others, some with only tiny changes, but for the most part, they are remarkably faithful to their ancestor, Louis’ original 1919 design which became known as the Tank Normale. Some of the more than 250 re-interpretations include the Chinoise, Allongee, Cintree, Basculante and Asymetrique.

. sur la terre . feature .


Tank Francaise

First produced in 1996, the most recent Tank is the Tank Francaise, currently Cartier’s best-selling Tank (and the model worn by Michelle Obama in her portrait). With the bracelet integrated into its curved case, it looks more like a jewel designed with no break in lines, volume or material between the watch and the bracelet, with soft bevels at the ends of each brancard. This medium model, made of steel, features a steel octagonal crown set with a spinel cabochon, silver grained dial, Roman numerals, swordshaped blued steel hands, a steel bracelet, Cartier caliber 175 A quartz movement, and is water resistant to 30 metres.

Cary Grant .

At Christie’s, unlike at Sotheby’s, Sam Hines confirms that the Tank Cintree is the most wanted. “In platinum. It’s like the Tank Normale, but the Cintree is larger, and it’s curved so that it bends around the wrist. You never, ever come across these watches. I’ve seen one in 10 years. It can easily make in excess of US$50,000.” But this, says Hines, is not the most beautiful Tank he has seen – that honour he reserves for a Tank Normale, made in 1928. “When you wound the watch, the power and the ticking you could feel going into the movement, it made me think of a sports car of the time.” Indeed, the list of Cartier Tank fans reads like a list of exactly the kind of people you can imagine enjoying a vintage sports car. From the famous to the infamous, across the ages, Cartier Tank has been associated with the likes of Harry Truman, Jackie Kennedy (who wore hers most famously with a black turtleneck), Cary Grant, Grace Kelly, Warren Beatty, Angelina Jolie, Catherine Deneuve, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Elton John, Jennifer Aniston, Andy Warhol, Reese Witherspoon, Princess Diana (whose Tank was a gift from her father and now belongs to Prince William), Greta Garbo, Truman Capote, Anne Hathaway and John F. Kennedy, to name only a few. Classically beautiful and traditional, it is the Burberry trench of coats, the Hermes Birkin of handbags. French couturiers have been especially fond of it, most notably the likes of Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Balmain, Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Cardin, possibly because the Tank is so quintessentially French, even if it has become associated with bold American names. “When you talk about the Tank, people spontaneously think of sumptuous jewellery,” concludes Rainero, which is ironic considering the watch’s stripped-back, pared-down origins. But perhaps its very design ethos is the reason that the Cartier Tank will never go out of style. Despite inspiring countless copies in the decades since 1919, it is the product that created the very idea of style in wristwatches, and it looks every bit as modern today as it did then. Great design, after all, endures.

Image by Philippe.. Lacombe, Cartier 2007..

Tank Americaine

The Tank Americaine, launched in 1989, was inspired by the Cintree, reproducing the curvature of its case, and a joy of design, alternating sharp and soft effects, straight lines and rounded edges. The Americaine is the first Cartier model to have an arched, water-resistant case, and has the first adjustable strap adapted to the famous deployant buckle, patented by Cartier in 1910. Midway between dressy and casual, it is considered a very American lesson in style. This small model in 18K yellow gold showcases an 18K yellow gold octagonal crown set with a faceted sapphire, silver grained dial, Roman numerals, sword-shaped blued steel hands, an alligator strap with 18K gold ardillon buckle, Cartier caliber 157 quartz movement, and is water resistant to 30 metres.

Image by Philippe Lacombe,.. Cartier 2007..

A fine vintage

A Cartier Paris from 1920, this vintage model features a case of polished and satinfinish gold brancards of polished and satin-finished platinum, a beaded winding crown capped with a sapphire cabochon, a leather strap with a pin buckle, as well as a square grained-silver dial with Roman numerals around a “railroad” minute track and hands of blued steel.

. sur la terre . feature .

Image by Nick Welsh,.. Cartier Collection, Cartier...

65


tr en ds confidential

Friend or frenemy? Sophie Jones-Cooper says hello to the new season’s trends – the fashion to befriend and the styles she’ll be giving a miss.

W

hen a new season knocks on the door, you can be assured that there will be those trends you just can’t wait to get your hands on, and then there are those that you either need to be a size double-zero to pull off, or more importantly, they simply aren’t very Middle East-friendly. Welcome spring’s trend friends and frenemies. As with every new season, the fashion capitals showcased the trends we will be coveting come spring (which is now thankfully just around the corner). London is renowned for its somewhat eccentric wears, New York for its cool and eclectic style, Milan for classic yet cutting-edge designs, and Paris, well Paris is arguably the epicentre of fashion’s hierarchy. But designers around the globe have thrown some serious fashion curveballs for spring, from flesh-baring midriffs to yet more lacklustre under-theknee hems and barely-there nudes and sheers. Of course, one person’s friend is another’s enemy and this is no different when it comes to the world of fashion. Choosing your fashion friends over your frenemies is completely personal. Some fashionistas revel in revealing their toned abs to the world, while others cannot wait for their next vintage fix or an excuse to flaunt clashing kooky prints and be praised for it. Whatever your style penchant du jour, there are undoubtedly some clear front-runners in this season’s frenemy department. When it comes to baring the flesh, spring is going all out exposing an area which is usually hidden away - the midriff. Cropped tops, bandeaus, whatever you want to call them, are all definitely at the very top of my spring frenemy list.

68

Just when we thought crop tops were buried safely away in the 90s along with shell suits and lycra, they have emerged from hiding with a vengeance. Italian design duo Domenico and Stefano may be embracing the beauty of the southern Italian 50s belle with their SS12 collection for Dolce & Gabbana, but when she is not sporting a demure yet playful Sophia Loren style, she is cropping her top and exposing her ab fabs. At Emilio Pucci, it was more of a bare middle Brigitte Bardot moment, and Prada, Proenza Schouler and Nina Ricci all united in pairing bandeau tops with pencil skirts. Now, I am not denying this look didn’t work on the catwalks of Paris and Milan on slender six-foot, size-zero models, but put a shrunken top on your average woman on the street, and it is an entirely different story. For the models and those in perfect six-pack shape, the exposed midriff may well be the ideal friend for a one-off flirty summer romance, but for many women, myself included, it is none other than a clear frenemy. After a certain age, crops should be left to the teens and their teeny frames. Bare midriffs - my frenemy number one. Also showing up on my frenemy radar is spring’s fashion game with sport. Yes, sport can look sleek, sexy and cool especially when worn the Celine or Stella way, but unless guided by the design leaders, this trend can look very 90s and naughties - reminiscent of that J-Lo velour tracksuit fad or a Sporty Spice reborn – both styles to steer clear of. Perhaps London’s hosting of the 2012 Olympics this summer has spurred the athletic trend to make a run for fashion’s finishing line, but it was in fact over the ocean in New York, where the catwalks were going for gold with sporting attire aplenty. Vera Wang’s dresses resembled the sleek lines of a wetsuit, Marc by Marc Jacobs teamed sporty preppy sweatshirts with leather skirts, and Alexander Wang took biker chic to new heights.

. sur la terre . trends confidential .


Marc by Marc Jacobs....

Emilio Pucci....

Versace....

Although an easy offbeat style, I would rather watch the Olympics than be mistaken for a participant. Sport couture – my frenemy number two. At the opposite end of the style scale, making their way to the top of my friend requests this season are spring’s undeniably feminine fashion offerings. After winter’s boyish “boy meets girl” wares, which I did struggle to embrace, I cannot wait for the billowing chiffon gowns, ladylike lace dresses, cinched and peplum waists, hourglass pencil skirts and blossoming florals. Phoebe Philo added peplum waists to nearly all her creations for Celine, Donatella created a mermaid of a woman for Versace, while Marc Jacobs created pretty in pink broderie anglaise girls for Louis Vuitton, and Karl Lagerfeld presented a mesmerising display of utterly feminine designs and pearls aplenty at Chanel. But watch out, hidden amongst spring’s most fabulous flowing and feminine finds are some sheer chiffon frenemies. If you don’t watch out, you might reveal far more than you bargained for. Colour remains a must-have BFF, but for spring takes on a lighter shade of pale – a perfect palette cleanser after the last few seasons of acid brights. Oscar de la Renta, Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton and Carolina Herrera were just a handful of designers who took out their watercolours when designing their spring collections. The result, a subtle palette of washed-out blues, mint greens and blush pinks. But if you pull the plug on too much colour, you might strike it unlucky with those hard-to-wear nudes – always a tricky trend to befriend. Barely-there second skin shades can be friends if you wear them correctly, but unless you are “size perfect,” give this season’s body con flesh tones a miss – you may just have another frenemy on your hands. Contrasting textures, layers and embellishment will help turn an unwanted frenemy into a friend. If last season you became best buddies with the trend for 40s vintage, then behold, spring is offering up some new pals from the past. Say hello to the roaring 20s. Harking back to the flapper days of the jazz era, designers served up all things art deco, glitzy and fringed.

. sur la terre . trends confidential .

Burberry....

69


Celine...

Dolce & Gabbana...

To keep your style from looking dowdy and old-fashioned, team potentially-frumpy under-the-knee hems with killer stacked heels and go for plenty of embellishment. Look to Gucci and Ralph Lauren for nostalgic new friends. Retro has been a buzzword on the style scene for quite a few seasons now, and for spring it is sticking around with a flashback to the fabulous 50s. Who wouldn’t want to be associated with Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren? Befriend the 50s style for spring with nipped-in waists and full prom skirts a la Dolce & Gabbana, Prada-style kitsch patterns and motifs and Burberry-esque handicraft housewives. Prints and patterns are interesting trends that just as easily fall into the frenemy bracket as they do the buddy brigade. If you are not a fan of clashing your stripes and spots, or animal print with florals, then maybe add this to your frenemy list. But if you are up for a clashtastic and fun friendship, then make friends with as many patterns and prints as you like and wear them all at once. What may appear to be a frenemy for many is in fact, for spring, a hidden bunch of fab friends. Don’t be afraid to make the first move. As the new collections hit the rails, be sure to figure out your friends from your frenemies. Know your body, know your style and push your boundaries. Let the love affair with the new season begin and summer romance blossom.

70

Salvatore Ferragamo...

How to befriend spring’s frenemies No one wants to be caught red-handed mid-fashion faux pas, so here’s how to make friends out of frenemies...

Bare midriffs.

Keep exposed flesh to the minimum and wear a cute and demure cardigan over the top.

Sporty. Team mesh tops with slick track pants and flaunt racerbacks.

Sheer.

Embrace spring’s trend for layering and let chiffon float over solid separates.

Nudes.

Go for a contrasting neutral shade to your skin, layer and add texture to break up the transparency.

Midi hems.

Opt for a full or pleated skirt and choose high or stacked heels over flats to extend your legs.

. sur la terre . trends confidential .


lO O k BO O k

The vintage revival is rocking on into the new season and bringing with it blooms aplenty TOP TIP: Embrace

another top trend for spring by combining your blooms and blossoms with other prints and patterns.

BAG Stella McCartney at Net-a-Porter.com, NECKLACE Monsoon, TOP Monsoon, DRESS Miss Selfridge, DRESS Jason Wu at Boutique1.com, TROuSERS Biba at House of Fraser, BLOuSE Miss Selfridge, SHIRT Topshop, SKIRT Topshop, SKIRT Acne at Net-a-Porter.com, JACKET Theory at House of Fraser, BELT Dorothy Perkins, SHOES Dune, SHOES Topshop, SHOES Dune

72

. sur la terre . look book .

lOuis vuittOn

lOuis vuittOn

Floral FlaShbaCk


lO O k BO O k

Cool Colour

Keep your wardrobe simple with block brights and barely-there pastels SHORTS River Island, SHORTS Orlebar Brown at MrPorter.com, CARDIGAN Acne at MrPorter.com, OLO SHIRT Fat Face, BELT River Island, CHINOS Kenzo at House of Fraser, TROuSERS River Island, SWEATER Maison Martin Margiela at MrPorter.com, TSHIRT Jil Sander at MrPorter.com, TRAINERS Pointer at House of Fraser, PuMPS River Island, BANGLE House of Fraser, SOCKS Next

A pair of bright skinny trousers or chinos is an easy way to embrace spring colour.

TOP TIP:

. sur la terre . look book .

73


FA s H i O n

la ville lumière c oNcEpt aND styliNg By gloRia s toRcHi, RoBERto ciapaNi pHotos By FaBRiZio NaNNiNi

74

aND

FEDERico t oREtti

. sur la terre . fashion .


. sur la terre . fashion .

75


76

. sur la terre . fashion .


Place de la Concorde - Lace jumpsuit, Chanel; coat, Jean Paul Gaultier; sandals, RenĂŠ Caovilla Page previous: Place de la Concorde - Trousers, Missoni; belt, Wolford; fur coat, Cristiano Burani Page opposite: Place de la Concorde - Dress and belt, Salvatore Ferragamo; fur coat, John Richmond

. sur la terre . fashion .

77


Place Vend么me - Turtleneck jumper, Cruciani; cape, Luisa Beccaria; leather boots, Gucci; gloves, Ermanno Scervino; belt, John Richmond

78

. sur la terre . fashion .


Origins

Chopard: the secrets of know-how Sur la Terre International’s Gaëlle Hennet finds herself in the heart of Chopard’s Fleurier and Geneva workshops where she unveils the know-how secrets of the famous jewellery house.

Setting a piece..

80

. sur la terre . origins .


The work of a wax sculptor..

Balance-Spring Fitter..

Complications Watchmaker..

O

ver the years, Chopard has become a reference in the world of horology and jewellery, thanks to its creativity and the ever impeccable quality of its products. This Geneva-based family business is present in 124 countries and today counts more than 130 stores and 1600 retail outlets throughout the world. Its vertically integrated production ranges from the gold foundry to the cases and bracelets of its timekeepers, as well as the setting of unique jewellery creations, under the supervision of Caroline Scheufele.

Pink gold and steel watch, Imperiale collection

Her brother, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has gone back to the roots of the maison by creating in 1996 a High Horology manufacturer for the production of L.U.C calibers and watches in Fleurier. Sur la Terre, invited to the heart of the Fleurier and Geneva workshops, unveils the secrets of some 30 crafts perpetuating the know-how of the house.

. sur la terre . origins .

81


The goldcaster In the fields of horology and jewellery, Chopard is one of the rare manufacturers to have its own gold foundry. This workshop, employing only two people, produces five types of 18 carat gold: one shade of white gold, two shades of yellow gold and two shades of pink gold. A bit like a famous chef constructing a wonderful dish, these different alloys are made up according to an extremely precise recipe. For example, in order to produce pink gold, the founder puts a certain quantity of fine gold in a well which he then mixes with silver and copper before placing the whole in a computerised oven that can melt 6 to 20kg of gold in one go. In order to produce white gold, palladium is added to the preparation. After it has “cooked” at 1000°C, the flaming red liquid is poured into a steel mould. The ingot obtained, always composed of a bit more than 750 grams of pure gold, will then be laminated into a long 12mm-strip by the two craftsmen. At this stage of production, a sample is taken and sent to the Swiss Precious Metals Control which analyses the alloy and determines its tenor. The certificate issued by the control office then allows Chopard to exploit the alloy.

The wax sculptor Do you remember the superb animal figures from the Animal World collection, exhibited in 2010 at the 150th anniversary of Chopard? All these animal figures took shape in the workshop of the wax sculptor. Based on a drawing, a story or merely a few indications, the sculptor, a qualified jeweller, rough-hews a subject in playdough before shaping a wax prototype, a matter prized by Chopard workshops because of its malleability. With chisels, reamers, files and tweezers, the sculptor will, for around a week’s time, create a subject that is then approved by Caroline Scheufele and the head of the High Jewelry Creation department. After this stage, the wax prototype is moulded in plaster and melted. white gold earrings set with two beryls and diamonds, temptations collection

The gem-setter The setter’s task is to judiciously insert the gems on their metal mounts, beginning by assessing the original drawing of the jewel and the uncut gem in hand, and then determining the diameter of gems to be used and the most appropriate setting. The piece to be adorned is brought uncut to the setting. The setter also chooses the type of gems to be placed, often in collaboration with Scheufele. This requires a perfectly accurate knowledge of stones, their nuances, their lustre, as well as their degree of fragility. After placing the order with the stone sorter, the setter, armed with a reamer, busies himself with the mitraillage, which is the art of drilling the material and distributing the holes that will later house the stones. During this particularly perilous stage, the piece of jewellery is supported by a brick and tar paste called jeweller’s pitch, to avoid any distortion. The actual placing of gems requires patience and infinite dexterity. In fact, sometimes more than 7500 gems must be inserted in the metal mounting. The setter thus hollows out the matter, hones, models, pushes back, deforms, cuts if necessary with a scorper or a graver. He inserts the stones using tweezers, then, using a beader that has already been hollow-cut and polished in order to make every last thousandth-millimetre of gold shine, he works and fashions the grains which hold the gemstones.

The balance-spring fitter The timer focuses on the five components that constitute the beating heart of the watch, namely the balance, staff balance, balance spring, the collet and the balance-spring stud. At Chopard, this takes place in Fleurier, and is completed by hand, making it the house’s most original and specific of all watchmaking operations: namely, shaping the terminal curve of the balance spring. This tiny flat spring forms a spiral on which will depend the frequency of the balance, its regularity and thus, the precision of the watch itself. Before work begins, the spring resembles a small metal disk covered with a hologram, glinting iridescently. It is only under the magnifying lens that its true nature is discovered: a flat, narrow and coiled hardened steel blade.

l.u.c triple certification tourbillon

82

. sur la terre . origins .


With special tweezers, the timer, using a machine, will start adjusting to size by cutting a few coils from the centre. This is in order to adapt the dimension of this central empty space to that of the collet. A few outer coils are cut as well so that the length of the balance spring corresponds to the technical specifications of the movement. The collet resembles a small cylinder with a side slot, into which the precision timer will then slide, blocking the inner end of the balance spring by means of a pin: this is pinning up to the collet. The collet will then be assembled to the balance. The following stage is that of posing the balance-spring stud – or pitonnage – at the end of the terminal coil. This microscopic piece, whose role is to attach the balance spring and the balance cock, is fixed to the former by a pin the size of an eyelash!

The electroplater This consists of applying, by electrolytic methods, layers of metal on components which are also made of metal in order to protect them and embellish them. An electrotyper workshop consists of vats of liquid, washing and rinsing baths. The pieces that reach this point come out of decorating workshops of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, where the L.U.C timekeepers are produced. The components are for the most part made out of brass, a metal that oxidises over time or when in contact with fingers. They must thus be protected by stainless metal, and for that gold or rhodium are all used as they are unalterable. The pieces are first hung to loops, or electrically conductive conical supports. These peculiar ‘Christmas trees’ are immersed in solutions to remove all traces of grease. They are then dipped in an electroplating bath, an acidic solution intended to neutralise all traces of soap and to activate their surface, in other words, allowing a layer of metal to affix to them more easily. The first deposition bath deposits a layer of nickel, an additional barrier against corrosion, which also facilitates the fixing of the final layer. Then come the colouring baths in which four colours of gold and two colours of rhodium are available. The components are rinsed with pure water and dried, and are ready to go to the watchmaker’s workshop to be assembled.

A gold ingot..

Complication watchmaker Within Chopard Manufacture, complication watchmakers have the difficult task of assembling and adjusting the pieces of horology, a relatively complex movement usually including no less than 350 components! Their work really resembles a three-dimensional puzzle, where the components are delivered in the form of kits, with succinct technical documentation presenting the specificities of caliber and recommending the traps to avoid. During the movement assembly, the main concern is to not damage the microscopic pieces that have to be handled – indeed, the work of the complication watchmaker requires extreme thoroughness, as well as great patience in knowing that the assembly work of one single tourbillon carriage may take two days. Once the components are joined together, the movement must then be adjusted in order to give it full precision, before sending it to the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. This phase, called achevage, consists in adjusting, and possibly modifying, the elements forming the regulating member, composed of the pallet, balance spring and balance. In this regard, these “professional nitpickers” as they like to describe themselves, come close to perfection on a daily basis.

. sur la terre . origins .

83


“ T hese gems have life in them :their colors speak , say what words fail of.� - G e o r g e El i o t


i n m oti o n

86

. sur la terre . in motion .


White Lightning Kevin Hackett feels the power of the latest V12 monster to emerge from the bull-pit of Sant’Agata Bolognese: The Lamborghini Aventador. Pictures: © 2012 Phil McGovern

I

talians. What have they ever done for us? Known the world over for designing fancy clothes, taking things easy, glugging Chianti and getting all passionate at the drop of a hat, have they ever really made a difference to the times we live in? I, for one, reckon so.

You see, even if they hadn’t introduced us to their flawless cuisine, if Leonardo Da Vinci had never existed, if Aquilino Cosani hadn’t invented the Spacehopper, if Guglielmo Marconi hadn’t made radio transmission a reality, if Galileo hadn’t built the first telescope, if Alessandro Volta hadn’t invented the electric battery, if Dr Giorgio Fischer hadn’t given the world liposuction and a certain Roy Jacuzzi hadn’t designed his famous bath tub, the fact that they gave us Lamborghini is quite enough. Has any car company made an impact like Lamborghini? I doubt it. Can you imagine what it must have been like to first cast eyes on the lithesome form of the Miura back in 1966 when it was unveiled at the Geneva Motor Show? Can you imagine? Can you?! I think I would have passed out. The four-wheeled equivalent of Marilyn Monroe trussed up in a corset, seamed stockings and stiletto heels, the Miura was without doubt the sexiest shape ever to clothe a rolling chassis. It even had eyelashes for crying out loud. With the Miura, the supercar as we know it was invented and the company, that came into being as a result of a grievance between founder Ferruccio Lamborghini and one seriously grumpy Enzo Ferrari, has not let up with the shock and awe since. Countach followed Miura, Diablo followed Countach, Murcielago followed Diablo – each model markedly better than the one it followed in every respect (except, perhaps, the exterior styling) – and now the Aventador enters the ring and takes a bow as the flagship V12 bull. It’s hard to believe, after almost five decades, that

Lamborghini still gets the whole “yeah, but they haven’t got the heritage of Ferraris” nonsense that prejudiced detractors spout. The Aventador has just bloodied Ferrari’s nose the way the Miura did back in ’66. “We’re the only bad boys left,” a senior management-type Lamborghini guy told me a couple of years ago, before saying, “We are not worried about Ferrari. Ferrari is sleeping.” Only Ferrari wasn’t sleeping. Instead, it was busy crafting the nigh-on perfect 458 Italia – a car that editor James McCarthy goes to bed dreaming about most nights. But the new Lambo is on another level altogether. The Aventador is hardcore. Just look at the thing. It’s an absolute triumph of form and function working together in total harmony. It looks like it’s doing 350km/h when it’s at a standstill. It’s outrageous, utterly ridiculous in every way. They haven’t got it this right since the Countach – seriously, I’ve tried and failed to find a single duff line on it. I’ll have mine in orange please, with unpainted alloys. But even in my least favourite colour combo of white and black, this thing rocks. Visually it takes the design direction of the ultra-rare Reventón of 2009, itself just a re-clothed Murcielago, but smoothes out the sharp creases, looking more like an actual car than a Stealth Fighter. Park it next to your average SUV and it’s unlikely the roofline of the Aventador would be level with even the door glass. Like its predecessor, it has a pronounced “cab forward” design, which furthers the (correct) assumption that there’s some serious firepower behind its cockpit. Behind the evocative black louvered grill, a masterpiece of handbuilt engineering has been shoehorned into place. It’s a V12, natch, but unlike the Murcielago’s mill, which could trace its roots back as far as 1963, this is entirely new. It’s 700bhp and 6.5 litres of full-fat Italian goodness – a fitting heart for a beast such as this.

. sur la terre . in motion .

87


Other highlights? It’s constructed as a carbon-fibre monocoque, which is a Lamborghini first, resulting in a lighter, stiffer body. There’s F1-style pushrod suspension, a new seven speed clutchless manual transmission with paddle shifter and three dynamic driving modes (Strada, Sport and Corsa) and the interior features on all-new LED instrument panel with two display modes. The four-wheel drive system is more advanced than ever, with electronic torque split and active aerodynamics. It’s safe to say that the engineers at Sant’Agata Bolognese are at the top of their game, and that all fears of parent company Audi spoiling the sacred Lamborghini recipe have been banished forever. Someone I know who was closely connected to Lamborghini in the early days once told me that, when an owner turned up at the factory to pick up a new Miura (assuming it was finished and ready to be driven away), Ferruccio would cycle to the end of the road after they’d departed, cup a hand against an ear and, if he could hear it powering away in the distance, would shout back to the workers, “It’s alright lads, he’s made it!” before getting dinner for everyone. Those early cars were built on a wing and a promise but those days are long gone. Lamborghini’s current president and CEO, Stephan Winkelmann, told me, “Lamborghini is now a centre of world-class engineering.” He isn’t kidding, but engineering, to most of us, is boring. It’s how this technical might translates into a seat-of-the-pants experience that excites us, so it’s high time I stopped waffling on and took this hypercar and let it show me who’s boss.

V10 Gallardo has to make do with conventional items. Nestled within the tight driver’s seat, I notice that there is absolutely zero storage space, even for the infernal keyless fob thingie, so it has to stay in my pocket. Foot on brake pedal, flip up the red ignition switch cover on the centre console, wait for the fuel pumps to send copious amounts of super unleaded to the injectors as the starter motor whirrs into life and BAM! The engine erupts with a frantic, violent bark and suddenly I’m nervous. Around Dubai Marina not a single pedestrian head is unturned by this mentalist – the city that likes to think it’s seen everything is having a wake-up call. This is one of the very first Aventadors in the Middle East and rumour has it that one of Dubai’s royalty has one in this exact colour scheme, which might account for the funny looks I’m getting. Heading for the open road through dense urban traffic is a pain, though, because while even a Veyron is a doddle to drive at low speeds, the Aventador just feels like it’s straining at some invisible leash. It’s constantly raring to go, even in the gearbox’s “Strada” mode. It feels jerky and recalcitrant, unless the revs are soaring but after some fiddling around with the settings, it ridiculously becomes apparent that “Sport” mode is more suited to this kind of traffic. Pretty soon I’m leaving behind the sprawling city in the direction of Hatta, which is an old border town near Oman. The journey’s frustrations continue with speed cameras everywhere and kamikaze drivers who can barely see the Lambo in their rearview mirrors, but on occasion I get to places where there’s excellent visibility and scant traffic, so I do the indecent thing and bury the throttle.

I’m in Dubai; an emirate that most people assume offers no decent driving roads. I’m also heading out with a couple of photographers who know better and I’ve been assured that the routes they’ll show me will allow me to test the Aventador to its limits. Well, my limits at least. The drama is without let-up, even before those 12 cylinders are ignited. First there are the doors. They lift vertically – a touch that’s reserved for V12 models as the

88

. sur la terre . in motion .


. sur la terre . in motion .

89


What results is an instantaneous gathering of enormous speed. Leaving it in “Sport,” the Aventador punches through each gear change leaving me short of breath, but I don’t really get a proper chance to enjoy it here. Before too long, though, my guides stop ahead of me and tell me that, if I take the next right off the main road I’ll be able to give the car some proper exercise. It’s a loop road, maybe 28km in total, that brings us back en route for Hatta. Giddily aware that there will be no cameras, no police, no camels or other road users to contend with, I pull down the scissor door and get on with the job at hand: seeing just how this thing behaves when there’s a long stretch of decent road at its disposal. I select “Corsa” mode for the full effect and stamp on the (very) loud pedal. The revs shoot upwards and the soundtrack becomes an opera of savage violence, filling the cabin with a deafening roar. The LED speedo goes into hyperdrive, piling on numbers so rapidly it isn’t worth looking at, as each upshift results in a vicious sledge hammer thump in the back as the Aventador destroys the road and tears toward the horizon. I can’t see anything through the rear window because the spoiler has long since raised itself to keep the car’s huge bottom planted on the road and what’s ahead has become a total blur. With sweat running down my forehead, I’m feeling decidedly uneasy but the Lambo isn’t. It feels totally keyed in to the hot tarmac and is sending information aplenty through my palms and firmly clenched buttocks. This stuff’s a doddle but then, when the fun seems like it might never end, I hit a bend and the sheer physical mass of this machine cannot be disguised. The power is being put down through all four tyres but it’s not enough to give me the confidence to keep the throttle nailed. Lifting off the gas, suddenly it feels nervous, jittery and quite deadly. This is the bad boy coming out, just like Lambos of old.

90

Hard on the brakes, the big bull wipes off speed almost as rapidly as it piles it on. Door up, I fall out and try to get my head around what I’ve just experienced. The speed warps time, the noise is intoxicating and the entire feel of the car is one of precision engineering. It’s a four-wheeled contradiction – wild yet usable, focused yet comfortable, friendly yet deadly. And that’s exactly what a flagship Lambo should be. It should perplex and delight in equal measure and, to that end, the Aventador exceeds expectations and puts it on a level beyond practically any other road car. I’m glad it isn’t easy to drive hard. A Veyron is, and as a result leaves me without the nagging desire to own one. The Aventador, though, is a different story altogether and I’d take one in a heartbeat. It’s an astonishing car in every single respect, and respect is exactly what it demands from its driver. Like a gorgeous, slightly unhinged (Italian) female, there’s something about it that makes me want to go back for more, even though I know I’ll probably come off worse. The nation should be proud of this one.

. sur la terre . in motion .


Acc e s sO r i e s

a game of

SHadowS

coNcEpt aND styliNg By gloRia stoRcHi, RoBERto ciapaNi aND FEDERico toREtti pHotos By FaBRiZio NaNNiNi

Leather bag, Valextra; trousers Alberta Ferretti; scarf, Antonio Marras

92

. sur la terre . accessories .


Men’s striped shirt, Boggi; jacket and scarf, Antonio Marras; coil armband, Gabriella Murania . sur la terre . accessories .

93


Ruffled shirt, Bagutta; embossed leather bag, Coccinelle; cashmere plaid scarf, Salvatore Ferragamo

94

. sur la terre . accessories .


Suede and leather bag, Tod’s; dress, Scapa Roma; hat, Gucci . sur la terre . accessories .

95


A RTO PI A

Jazz at Lincoln Center... at St.Regis Doha

The Royal Opera House Muscat..

96

. sur la terre . artopia .


Wynton Marsalis, nine-time Grammy Award winner, Pulitzer Prize recipient and Artistic Director of the cultural phenomenon that is Jazz at Lincoln Center, brings the spirit of jazz music to Doha. Sur La Terre’s Danny Issa got to hear the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra play and spend some time backstage with front man Wynton Marsalis.

Marsalis and The Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra..

. sur la terre . artopia .

97


J

azz at Lincoln Center has been at the forefront of modern jazz music since it opened in October 2004. Under the guidance of artistic director, Wynton Marsalis, renowned trumpeter and holder of numerous accolades and awards, including nine Grammies and a Pulitzer Prize, the center has propelled jazz music to new heights. Each year, the musicians of the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra have taken their incredible talent and passion for jazz well beyond New York. Year after year, they perform for audiences around the globe, touring extensively around Asia, Europe and the Americas, but they have always returned home to New York City. For the first time ever, Jazz at Lincoln Center is looking to permanently expand its home past the walls of West 60th Street and Broadway. Thanks to a partnership with St. Regis Hotel, the music institution will be opening an epicentre for jazz right here in Qatar: Jazz at Lincoln Center Doha. The team at St. Regis was eager for the members of Sur La Terre to hear Wynton and the Orchestra play firsthand, but the finishing touches at the hotel were still being made. Not wanting to waste an opportunity to showcase this phenomenal talent and introduce him to Doha’s culture-lovers, St. Regis flew me to Oman to attend a sold-out performance of the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra with Wynton Marsalis at the brand new Royal Opera House Muscat. “This isn’t just any jazz, this is world class jazz,” Yves Dewaegenaere, assistant director of marketing for St. Regis Doha, tells me before the concert. “That’s the message we want to get out to the people. I hope you enjoy.” That being said, my expectations were exceedingly high as the musicians entered the stage to the energetic applause of the audience, made up of over one thousand fans, each one seemingly more excited than the next.

98

The incomparable Wynton Marsalis..

Wynton took to the microphone to introduce himself, the orchestra and Duke Ellington, a legend of jazz whose music they would be playing. It was about halfway though the opening number when I became conscious of the fact that I was tapping my foot along to the music. A young boy sat in front of me, no more than ten years old, steadily clapping along to the beat. As I looked around the immense hall filled with wondrous music, a chill ran down my spine. Whether it was foot tapping, knee patting, finger snapping or head bobbing, it seemed like everyone around me was responding to the music emanating from the stage. What I found especially intriguing was the fact that we were all so different from each other. The audience was an extremely diverse group of people made up of different nationalities and ages who all had different backgrounds and experiences, but that did not affect how the power of jazz music moved us along with every note. It took Wynton Marsalis and the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra all of two minutes to unite 1,000 different people through their music. It truly was a spiritual moment for me.

. sur la terre . artopia .


Wynton Marsalis, tooting his own horn..

The fifteen men played together with a level of ensemble that resembled machine-like proficiency, communicating harmoniously with one another throughout the entirety of the concert. They were tapping their feet along to the music of their bandmates, speaking words of encouragement to one another and smiling in approval as they heard new improvisations. It was this world-class level of ensemble that ensured every note was filled with passion, heart and story, and it made for a moving experience. It was no surprise then that no single member played a superior role within the group. In fact, Wynton himself did not have a trumpet solo until the final song of the first act. That song was “Bragging in Brass,� appropriately titled because that is exactly what the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra did for the duration of the two hour-long concert. It was reassuring to see that any member on stage was more than capable of shining under the spotlight and jamming out a brilliant solo. I was not the only audience member enamoured by the performance. Never have I seen a venue lobby empty out so quickly at the end of intermission. Everyone was eager for the second act to start. After the concert came to close, everyone wanted to hear more. The trumpets were still blaring at the close of the final number when the audience rose to their feet in standing ovation. The thousand-strong crowd bombarded the stage with cheers and claps, even after the orchestra had left the stage, and the applause kept coming for an entire sixty seconds. One minute may seem like a short period of time but it was impressively long considering the fact that one thousand people were clapping at an empty stage littered with chairs. That just goes to show you how spectacular the level of performance was.

To the delight of the audience, Wynton reemerged with trumpet in hand, alongside percussionist Ali Jackson, pianist Dan Nimmer and cellist Carlos Henriquez. The quartet of musicians played an encore that had a completely different vibe from the concert which preceded it. The show itself was an eloquent and entertaining celebration of jazz history, but the encore performance had a more intimate feel. In the few minutes that the quartet played, I felt a whole new swell of emotions and felt an even deeper connection to the music and the masters creating it. After taking their final bows, the four musicians exited the stage, but were audibly discussing the concert as they did so. Even though they had just played a two-hour show, they still had jazz inside them. They were talking about what had worked well during the show and what inspirations came to them for new melodies. The commitment these men have for their craft and the love they all share for jazz is evident, which undoubtedly explains why they sound so good and provided a night of jazz that was unlike anything I have heard before. The concert was a fine display of world-class jazz and it is what you can expect, night after night, from Jazz At Lincoln Center Doha. The venue at the St. Regis Hotel will seat 120 people and host live music six nights a week, every month of the year excluding the holy month of Ramadan. Hearing the musicians of Jazz At Lincoln Center while sitting amongst a sea of people in the immense hall of the Royal Muscat Opera House was a life-changing experience. I can only imagine what it will be like to hear them play in the intimate setting that Jazz At Lincoln Center Doha will offer.

. sur la terre . artopia .

99


A RTO PI A

The Art of Ego

The Qatar Museums Authority presents, for the first time ever in the Middle East, arguably Japan’s most influential contemporary artist, Takashi Murakami. Prepare for the “artocalypse.”

The master of Superflat, Takashi Murakami..

“Dragin in Clouds - Red Mutation” (2010)..

100

. sur la terre . artopia .


T

he Qatar Museums Authority (QMA) has really been upping the artistic ante in Doha of late. Its recent curatorial efforts to develop an exhibition with world-renowned Chinese artist Cai Guo-Qiang was, in a word ... explosive! If you haven’t yet had the chance to see Saraab, which collects over 50 truly astounding works from the artist famous for his practice within the medium of gunpowder, do yourself a favour and head to the Mathaf Arab Museum of Modern Art before the exhibition closes on May 26, 2012. As if an exemplary modern treatise on artistic creation via its own destruction isn’t enough to entice you, QMA is quite keen to offer another exhibition, which, while markedly distinct from Saraab’s fireworks display, will just as surely blow your mind. Behold, the psycho-technic Elysium and feverish delirium of Japanese pop artist, Takashi Murakami! Taking place between February 9 to June 24, 2012 in the Al-Riwaq exhibition hall at Doha’s now iconic Museum of Islamic Art, Murakami - Ego, which is the artist’s first exhibition in the Middle East, will encapsulate and showcase some of Murakami’s most beloved works from his over-20-year career.

Finally, the artist himself will break the canvas by stepping into it, not only by depicting a self-caricature in a giant picture, but also by donning a large inflatable monster suit and welcoming exhibitiongoers personally. The QMA has dubbed this exhibition “a portrait of the artist as a cartoon,” which will, “illuminate the role of the artist as a cipher and critic of pop phenomena, as well as a mirror of global networks of consumerism, interpretation, and exchange.” Murakami himself hopes that over its run, the exhibition will open “a dialogue with one’s own ego,” so get ready for a full-on, existential assault on all five, and possibly even six senses. Of course, as much as this is an artistic showcase, it is also a cultural one. Murakami-Ego acts as the inaugural celebration of the Qatar-Japan 2012 calendar of events, which throughout the entire year, will mark 40 years of diplomatic relations between the two countries. Thanks to QMA and Takashi Murakami, it looks like the international culture and art scene in Qatar is going to be quite the trip.

Trained to doctoral level in the customary Japanese art of Nihonga, Murakami is best known within the contemporary arts community for his millennial creation of and work within “Superflat” theory, which uses at its basis the conceptual tradition of two-dimensional Japanese art and post-war society to turn a vibrantly harsh light on the preconceptions of “low” and “high” art. With a heavily chromatic, nouveau-surrealist tone, usually incorporating a hectic hail of imagery from Japanese manga, Murakami’s art, whether in painting or massive installations, leaves your mind in a wet, frenetically hallucinogenic haze. Perhaps ironically, it is the outlandishly cartoonish and satirically tempestuous nature of his art that has led it into the mainstream. Proving that he is not afraid to work within commercial art, and indeed because such an approach is a tenant of Superflat theory, Murakami has taken part in several wildly successful collaborations in Western pop culture, such as his work with Marc Jacobs, for whom he conjured manic visual riffs and colourful swathes across the signature monogram of Louis Vuitton. He also created bespoke artwork for Kanye West’s 2007 album, Graduation. The Murakami-Ego exhibition will be a celebration of these artistic accomplishments, and will showcase some of his most celebrated series, including “Kaikai Kiki Lots of Faces” and “Pom and Me,” all of which will be presented in their entirety for the first time. Of course, Murakami would say that display itself is an art form, and as such, he has devised some innovative ways of shaking up the space in which he will exhibit, including digital animation, a circus tent that doubles as an indoor cinema and a new 100-metre-long wrap-around painting.

“And then, and then, and then... Variation” (1996)..

“Lots, Lots of Kaikai and Kiki” (2009)..

. sur la terre . artopia .

101


“A ll that glitters is not gold.� - W i l l i a m S h a k e s p e a r e


ho r izo n s

behind

the golden

gate

Sunrise over one of the most iconic sights and greatest engineering.. feats in the world, the Golden Gate Bridge..

104

. sur la terre . horizon .


With its fantastic and fascinating history of eccentrics and earthquakes, it’s little wonder that San Francisco may just be the most bohemian city in America. It’s easily also one of the most beautiful, with 43 hills offering views of the bay and the famous Golden Gate Bridge. Siobhán Corley-Richards discovers the gems that make this the West Coast’s true must-visit city. “If you’re going to San Francisco, be sure to wear some flowers in your hair’, or so says Scott McKenzie in his classic song that provides the backdrop to a city enveloped in a love revolution. Of course, much has changed since the hippie, free-loving decade of the 60s, but there is something about this wonderful and refreshingly unique city that time and again brings me back to this quote. While wearing a flower in your hair isn’t a prerequisite to fitting in these days (unless perhaps you’re partial to joining in a sing song on Hippie Hill in the Golden Gate Park), San Francisco as a whole has evolved as rapidly as a flower sprouts and blossoms through the seasons. In a city where things change as quickly as the chilly fog that can descend over the bay on a warm summer’s day, it’s not surprising to find a people that are open, welcoming and as eager to embrace unconventionality as to jump on board the next trend. Gone are the flowers, but in its place are many faces, places and an upbeat spirit that has been moulded by diversity. It makes for an enchanting city break. Having lived here for 9 months, I’ve grown to love every inch of this quirky melting pot for the avant-garde where each day brings a new discovery. Let me take you on a stroll off the well-beaten tourist track.

. sur la terre . horizon .

105


Stop off for clam chowder at world-famous Fisherman’s Wharf..

Foodie fix “San Francisco is relaxed, it’s open to try new things and so much less cutthroat than New York,” remarked Chef Roland of La Folie, when commenting on his other choice of destination for his Michelin-starred restaurant. It’s a common theme here; San Franciscans are content (not to be confused with smug) with their lot. While its big and brash neighbour LA and east coast counterpart New York are regularly seen on our movie screens and are never far from the news, San Francisco has sat quietly on the sidelines and created a home and a destination of choice for many who have spurned the shiny, bright lights of its metropolitan neighbours. “San Francisco is entrepreneurial, but more friendly and less stressful than New York. It’s a city with a soul; Los Angeles feels fake somehow, whereas San Francisco is honest, welcoming and open to all characters and personalities” – these are just a few of the comments I’ve heard being thrown about by loyal San Franciscans. But back to Chef Roland, who very kindly invited my husband and me to dine at his divine, contemporary French restaurant. Located on Russian Hill, home to the infamous Lombard Street, literally the “crookedest” street in San Francisco, La Folie nestles snugly into this quiet, residential neighbourhood. Russian Hill was one of the first districts to be formed as a result of the Gold Rush era in the 1850s, and if gold is what you are after, dining at La Folie comes extremely close! It’s clear within seconds of meeting him that Chef Roland is extremely passionate about food in a way that only the French can express. Each of his dishes, which are created using simple, classic ingredients with a playful and contemporary twist, is a masterpiece in culinary expertise. Every day of his studies in Provence, his time spent in Chicago and Dallas, and his 24 years running La Folie in San Francisco, can be tasted in each dish. With today’s culinary trends going all scientific and molecular, it’s refreshing to see that Chef Roland’s simple, honest and creative fare is still going down a storm. Starting with the Sautéed Burgundy Snails in Pernod Lemon Butter, Parsley and Bone Marrow Gratin, I knew I was in for an unforgettable dining experience. No awkward plucking of snails out of their pesky shells. These beauties were already shell-less, stuffed inside the bone and submerged in a delicate mote of mouth-watering Pernod and Lemon Butter; a strange but wonderful taste sensation. For my main, I just had to try Chef Roland’s signature dish; Rôti of Quail and Squab, stuffed with Mushrooms and wrapped in Crispy Potato Strings. Before I enjoy this piece of art, I need to take a moment to mention its complexity. The cylinder of potato strings is delicately fabricated and then stuffed with the tender, juicy morsels from these tiny, yet delicious fowl. It’s a process that epitomises Chef Roland’s passion and dedication, plus it tastes phenomenal. I finished with the richest, creamiest chocolate mousse. My non-sweet-toothed husband managed to finish his succulent Carrot Cake and Ginger Crème Brulée, despite lapping up the generous mise en bouche, which Chef Roland’s attentive and knowledgeable staff continued to tantalise us with between courses.

106

The Clift hotel..

Everyday people A short taxi ride downtown from La Folie will bring you to the hidden glamour of the Clift Hotel. Opulently designed by Phillippe Starck, The Clift tells the story of San Francisco’s diverse and ever-changing character through exceptional interior design. It’s a hotel dripping with elegance, seasoned with an uber-cool ambience, making the Clift the residence of choice for visiting celebrities and glitterati. With secrecy assured and the added convenience of being home to one of the world’s top 10 bars, the Redwood Room, it’s perfectly designed to fulfil every whim. As sumptuously designed as the Redwood Room is with all the glamour of the post-Prohibition era, San Francisco doesn’t do conventional “exclusive members bars” the way we know them in the Middle East and Europe. There’s a distinct air of unpretentiousness here and gaining access to some of the best bars in town is all about having the right vibe and attitude. I spoke to Phil, the owner of the Otis Bar about this distinct difference between San Francisco and other cosmopolitan cities. Otis Bar is a funky little cocktail lounge that does the best mojito in town and hosts some of the most talked about DJs. Lady Gaga even played her first gig in San Francisco in this tucked away little gem of a bar. Phil, who hails from LA, first opened Otis as a private members club, but, as he said, “It doesn’t work here; people just want to have fun and party with some great people without the stuffiness of being part of a club”. Instead they assess each person at the door to make sure they let in the right kind of people, dressed for the occasion in whatever way they see fit. It makes for an eclectic, more interesting mix of clientele and a great night where, as Phil puts it, “It’s so much more refreshing than in LA where everyone looks the same.” On at least one of your days here, rise with the birds, especially if it’s a Saturday morning, and head to the Ferry Building on the Embarcadero. Renovated into a fine food emporium after the 1989 earthquake, the Ferry Building hosts the biggest farmer’s market in the city. Grab breakfast at one of the myriad stalls, or choose from any number of ethnic, local and regional food stalls and stock up on fresh fruit to snack on throughout the day.

. sur la terre . horizon .


Support the Giants baseball team at AT&T Park..

Environmentally-conscious locals take to the streets on bicycles..

The Clift hotel..

In many ways, the farmer’s market characterises the food trend that is currently sweeping California: the many new artisan eateries and stores that source local, organic, fresh foods to create truly unique and tasty culinary offerings. Staying on the food theme, I journey to the neighbourhood of Hayes Valley to explore this trend further on a Gourmet Food Tour. Hayes Valley was once a run-down neighbourhood, but since 2005 it has been transformed into one of the city’s most fashionable districts. Andrea Nadal, company founder, did well in selecting Hayes Valley for her gourmet tour, with its eclectic mix of food stores, cultures and innovative concepts vying for business, you will be spoilt for choice. Our tour guide Kate gave me a little background to the home grown, locally sourced, organic idea. Alice Walters, the godmother of organic food is from Berkeley, a city across the bay from San Francisco. During the time of free speech in the 70s, she started a movement to promote the use of organic food and her ideals have lingered, taken seed and blossomed into a steadfast culinary way of life. Our first stop not only demonstrates this concept but also showcases an innovative method of food production that involves none of the IT prowess of nearby Silicon Valley. The brainchild of Robyn Sue Goldman, who started off with one mobile ice cream machine, Smitten is a store that serves delicious, flavoursome ice cream out of a wacky and wonderfully renovated shipping container. Its secret is in the freshly sourced local ingredients that are magically transformed by liquid nitrogen, which makes every sumptuous scoop in a mere 60 seconds.

The Clift hotel..

Other stops on this informative and tastebud-tantalising tour include a fromagerie, with its own cold room of cheeses from all over the world, Fritjz, a delightful Belgian café with the best chips and accompanying sauces this side of the pond, and charming, dainty homemade chocolatiers and sweet shops.

. sur la terre . horizon .

107


While eating your way around the city and getting swept up in a smorgasbord of tasty delights, don’t forget to check out some of the more traditional sights. There is so much to see here, each telling a story about San Francisco’s changing face over the decades. Here are my top picks of the must-sees:

Alcatraz Island:

One of the most intriguing sites I have ever visited in any city and witness to many of the most remarkable events in San Francisco’s history, including military invasions, native Indian occupation and the infamous federal prison. At first glance, it’s hard to imagine how Alcatraz managed to keep some of the most notorious criminals in America, such as Al Capone and the Birdman, imprisoned. This prominent fortress is just 1.5 miles from shore, but it’s also surrounded by treacherous, freezing cold waters, making it virtually escape-proof. As past prisoners and wardens talk you through an audio tour as you wander the corridors, you will be transported back to those dark, mysterious times. It’s a haunting and moving experience and one not to be missed.

Deserted prison cells at the infamous Alcatraz Island.

A must-visit district for anyone fascinated by the city’s hippie past..

Haight/Ashbury: The original centre of the love and peace revolution of the 60s and 70s, the Haight/Ashbury district flaunts many remnants of these quirky years. Amoeba Music is well worth the visit. The largest independent stockist of music in the world, its almost possible to feel the beat of the revolution this record store helped create. It easily knocks the socks off the online competition.

108

. sur la terre . horizon .


Impossibly crooked Lombard Street on Russian Hill..

The Columbus statue greets visitors at the base of the distinctive Coit Tower..

Coit Tower: This distinctive tower atop Telegraph Hill has stunning views of this hilly cityscape. Commissioned by the wealthy, eccentric local Lillian Hitchcock Coit in 1933, not only does the Coit Tower offer stunning views across the city, Fisherman’s Wharf, east to the infamous Golden Gate Bridge and west to the Bay Bridge, it showcases the work of one of the first art projects in the city through a series of distinctive murals. Speaking of views, for a spectacular sunset on a clear day, make your way to Top of the Mark in the Hotel Intercontinental Mark Hopkins. A classic cocktail hotspot that’s steeped in history, Top of The Mark regularly features some of San Francisco’s legendary jazz bands, a musical genre for which San Francisco is famous for. With 360 degree views, it’s the perfect backdrop to any San Francisco experience. Stay for sumptuous brunch, light lunch or an early evening cocktail, and take in the view. A famous destination for the military throughout the last century, it’s maintained the essence of a bygone era and provides the perfect backdrop to toast the end of your stay in this intriguing city. I can’t help but wonder about San Francisco and its undefeated sense of optimism and tolerance, and how it has survived its tumultuous years. The last century saw two life-shattering earthquakes and the fallout from the dot.com boom that left many of the city’s entrepreneurs out in the cold. Despite these difficult times, it’s as if San Francisco remembers where it came from; the booming Gold Rush era. San Francisco is about enjoying the good times and quickly reinventing and bettering itself, not only riding but welcoming each change. There’s a freedom here that other cities in the US don’t have, it’s a place where anything goes and everyone is accepted. It’s no wonder that visitors quickly fall in love with the city and can’t help admit that this is the way life should be. San Francisco offers as much possibility as it did when Scott McKenzie first wrote those words, plus a whole lot more. On the way home from town the other day, an old lady stopped me and handed me a flower from her freshly picked bouquet. I smiled to myself as I slipped it behind my ear….it seems there are some things that never change.

Go/See/Do Where to sleep Clift Hotel 495 Geary Street, San Francisco, CA 94102 www.clifthotel.com Hotel Intercontinental Mark Hopkins One Nob Hill, San Francisco, CA 94108 http://www.intercontinentalmarkhopkins.com/

Where to eat: La Folie 2316 Polk Street, San Francisco, CA 94109 www.lafolie.com Top of the Mark One Nob Hill, San Francisco, CA 94108 http://www.intercontinentalmarkhopkins.com/top_of_the_mark/

Where to Play Otis Lounge 25 Maiden Lane, San Francisco http://www.otissf.com/ The Redwood Room 495 Geary Street, San Francisco, CA 94102 http://www.clifthotel.com/en-us/#/explore/?id=/clift-san-francisco-redwood-room/

. sur la terre . horizon .

109


out of the box

Sails, PlaneS

& Automobiles

For 20 years, the great and the good of the marine industry have descended on Dubai in March to take part in the region’s flagship leisure marine event which, after two decades, has become a beacon for the burgeoning industry in the GCC.

110

. sur la terre . out of the box .


T

o celebrate this - ahem - watershed, this year’s event promises to be bigger and better in just about every respect. A record number of Superyacht Builders Association (SYBAss) members have already signed up to be a part of the 20th anniversary celebrations. Among the prized names, Abeking & Rasmussen, AMELS, Benetti, CRN, Feadship, Fincantieri, Heesen Yachts, Lurssen, Oceanco, Sanlorenzo and Trinity Yachts will all showcase their latest models and designs. The dedicated SYBAss Pavillions have been further enhanced for the 20th anniversary after the highly successful launch in 2011, set in the heart of the show within the Marina Display Area. One of the best-known and most respected names in superyacht circles, the event is synonymous with success. “It comes as no surprise to us that the 20th Dubai International Boat Show is attracting so many world class superyacht builders,” said Michael Breman, sales director of Lurssen Yachts. “For Lurssen, the event has always been an excellent opportunity to showcase our most innovative and sophisticated yachts and introduce the brand to an equally sophisticated audience. This is not only the most important marine industry event in the Middle East, as for over 20 years, it has become a must-attend event for global players.” A number of key factors have been catalysts for the success of the show, not least of which are the range and reach of its high calibre international exhibitors and high-spending visitors. Thanks to these contributers, the Dubai International Boat Show has become the most accurate gauge and effective driver of the regional marine market. Bringing together buyers, builders and distributors from around the world to display their wares to some of the highest net worth individuals is such a successful formula, that in recent years, the show has extended its remit to other, related, areas of the marine lifestyle arena. This year will see the return of the Supercar Promenade, which will showcase some of the finest, and high value, automobiles available in the Emirates. Highlights include the Bentley Flying Spur Speed and Continental ranges, A Brabus-tuned SLS AMG Mercedes, the Rolls Royce Ghost and the famous marque’s Phantom Drophead Coupé, among others. As well as automobiles, there will be exhibits from jewellery companies, high-end furniture manufacturers and other industries that help the Dubai International Boat Show transcend your average trade show and become a complete lifestyle event. The event also draws its exhibitors from more than 40 countries, with several companies from new geographic locations deciding to attend. There will also be debut appearances from several new nations from as far afield as Madagascar and Tunisia this year. Other key segments of the show will be the Superyacht Boulevard, exclusively reserved for the showcasing of superyachts of 25 metres and above; the Marina Display Area, comprising of the largest on-water display in the Middle East; Luxury Supplies & Services housing the finest luxury fixtures and fittings from around the world; and Equipment Supplies & Services, an indoor area filled with exhibitors specialising in products essential to the supply and servicing of the leisure marine industry. For the third consecutive year, one of the world’s most elite watch brands, Officine Panerai, will attend as a supporting partner alongside Mercedes-Benz, which will once again be the official show car. Meanwhile, leading private jet manufacturer, Bombardier joins the ranks as a major sponsor for the first time, meaning that this 20th instalment of the Dubai International Boat Show will be the most impressive event on land, sea or in the air.

All Aboard

The 20th Dubai International Boat Show will be held at the Dubai International Marine Club at Mina Seyahi between 13th and 17th of March from 3:00pm to 9:30pm daily. www.boatshowdubai.com

. sur la terre . out of the box .

111


out of the box

SUN

Sur la Terre climbs aboard the first fully solar-powered ship to circumnavigate the globe.

112

Deck

. sur la terre . out of the box .


E

voking memories of the “stealth boat” used by James Bond’s media mogul nemesis, Elliot Carver, in The World Is Not Enough, and packing enough cutting-edge technology to make Q blush, the MS Tûranor PlanetSolar made for an imposing sight as she pulled into dock at The Pearl Qatar on the return leg of her round-the-world voyage. Part of its Bond vehicle-like demeanor is due to the 537 square metres of photovoltaic cells, or solar panels, that cover the top deck of the boat, as well as the retractable “wings” that silently protract from the sides of the vessel to optimise the surface area capable of capturing and converting sunlight into the fuel that powers it. PlanetSolar is a triumph of technological achievement in the advancement of viable alternative propulsion methods for ocean-going vessels, and is on the final run of an historic and groundbreaking voyage that has seen the 35m catamaran circumnavigate the globe, visiting the likes of Abu Dhabi, Samoa, Singapore, Mumbai and all stops in between. After a three-week stop for the holiday season, PlanetSolar moved on to Dubai and is now well on its way back to its start-point in the south of France. The brainchild of Swiss engineer, Raphaël Domjan, the idea for the PlanetSolar boat was hatched way back in 2004 and inspired by the novels of Jules Verne. In fact, that is not the only literary connection to the boat, as the name Tûranor means “power of the sun” in the mythology of J.R.R. Tolkien. After a meeting in 2008 with Immo Ströher, a German businessman with an interest in solar technologies, the PlanetSolar project began to take shape. Two years, 64,000 building hours and US$25 million later and the MS Tûranor PlanetSolar was a reality, unifying an international team of physicists, engineers, shipbuilders and sailors to begin the first fully solar powered world tour. On its voyage, the PlanetSolar team carried out extensive scientific research on solar radiation and wind speeds, as well as constantly carrying out internal tests on the boat so that, in the future, shipyards can build better, environmentally friendly boats.

The top speed of the boat is around 10 knots, which the team explained is a little lower than the average boat of the same size; however, because of the 38,000 solar cells constantly harnessing the power of the sun, the boat is virtually cost-free to run, and can do so infinitely. Accoriding to the captain, Erwann Le Rouzic, the ship was originally designed to be faster, but instead, the focus was shifted to strengthening the vessel to resist bad weather conditions, making it heavier at 85 tons, and therefore slightly slower. Ten percent of that total weight alone is attributed to the lithium-ion batteries, which are constantly being charged by the solar panels. Le Rouzic noted that PlanetSolar can run for three days without collecting solar energy, but even in low weather conditions, the cells still collect a charge. He added that while the ship was docked at The Pearl Qatar, the boat generated an excess of power, which, in the future could mean that solar powered boats could potentially pump that power back into the harbour’s power grid, leading to solar reliant marinas. This would further propagated a cleaner energy boating landscape. Fundamentally, though, Le Rouzic concluded by saying, that the core mission of the PlanetSolar project was to demonstrate that solar marine technology is viable and that a cleaner, greener sea-faring future is achievable. As the MS Tûranor PlanetSolar sails off into the sunset, bound for home, that future isn’t just achievable. It’s now. www.planetsolar.org

. sur la terre . out of the box .

113


out of the box

HEART & Soul I

looking to make Doha more “wellheeled,” Sur la Terre heads back to the king of cobblers, Santoni to see how they put magic into each step. f the old adage is true that before you can truly appreciate a man, you must first walk a mile in his shoes, then we have to say ... we really, really appreciate Andrea Santoni.

The family business he began almost 40 years ago has, much like the impeccable footwear and quality it has become synonymous with over the years, today become one of the world’s most iconic names in quintessential cobbler connoisseurship, transcending the often saturated industry of luxury products into the realm of objets d’art. The history and family lineage of the Santoni tradition was born and raised in the Marche region of central Italy as a young, passionate Andrea dedicated himself to honing the natural skills that have made him into one of the world’s foremost ateliers. Because of his perseverance, the Santoni name has for years now enjoyed the zenith of its worldwide renown, but then again, it was always meant for global greatness. “Being international is our heritage,” says Federico Ferranti, Santoni’s commercial manager for the Middle East region during a recent trip to the brand’s boutique at The Pearl, Qatar. “Santoni has always had that international soul.” Since the beginning, Andrea, who is still very much involved in production, would travel around the Italian midlands before venturing further afield and finally making his big foreign break, first in the American market during the mid-1980s, and then moving into the international arena.

114

. sur la terre . out of the box .


However, as Ferranti says, despite being a man (and brand) of the world, Santoni never forgot his roots. “Andrea understands that in life, it’s important to remember where you come from. He started with a passion for both beauty and high quality in his home and then carried it with him into the world.” In that way, Santoni straddles many different worlds effortlessly, allowing the brand a timeless and universal allure, while at the same time fitting individual tastes. While Santoni does appeal to the masses, it also maintains a fierce commitment to being special and unique, just like its customers. There is catering to personal, even local tastes, while at the same time keeping a high international standard. At one moment, you can admire the hand-brushed colour treatments and numbinglycool vintage verve of the Limited Edition collection, the peerless materials and craftsmanship of the Classic line or the rustic-cum-fun refinement of the Club collection. In the next, you notice Santoni’s appreciation of local heritage, which we saw firsthand in our visit as Ferranti showed us the specially-designed Santoni Arabic sandals made for the Gulf region. “In this market,” he says, “customers are bored with the normal and celebrate the special, and in Santoni, they find it. At the same time, footwear here must be comfortable, which is different from the European sense. This Arabic style of sandal is part of the heritage and style here, and Santoni understands that desire. That’s why it’s important to travel as Andrea did, to understand what each market needs.” Indeed, Santoni never fails to disappoint wherever its sybaritic saunter makes footfall around the world of taste and class, and in that ethos, Santoni shares a great deal with Qatar. Walking through the boutique on The Pearl is a bit like strolling down the main thoroughfare in Doha’s Souq Waqif on a crowded Friday evening; in both, you see every “walk” of life ... pun intended. The methods and techniques used at Santoni by its trained-in-house artisans are just as myriad, and each enhances that very distinctive feel to every pair of shoes. “That aspect of Santoni is very important,” chimes in Ferranti again, this time with a meaningful squint.

“It makes our shoes special. The way we colour the shoes, the way we shape and stitch them, it makes every single pair different, special. With that handmade touch, you are not just buying a pair of shoes, you’re buying art.” The artistic streak that runs through all of the shoes available at Santoni is something that became ever more evident on our walkthrough with Ferranti, who obviously shares Andrea’s passion for Santoni. As he mused on the different style of techniques, from the hand-sewn stitching excellence of the Blake method to the arduously rendered precision and time-transcendent Bentivegna construction, each seemed like a different school of art, every one more impressive than the last. Of course, Santoni shoes are meant for more than simply admiring. These beauts are made for walking, and we were ready to get moving, which is why we got a pair. Of course, as we have described, shopping at Santoni isn’t just a simple matter of popping to the shop to pick up some new kicks. It’s a question of lifestyle and of taste. First you must choose the material, whether that is something perhaps more prosaic (but no less sumptuous) as calfskin, or perhaps something a bit more opulent, like baby crocodile skin. The next thing to consider is the make or technique; will you go for the flexible durability of the Goodyear method, or perhaps the arduous, 20-day odyssey of the Tubular construction? Finally, and this was perhaps our favourite part, there is the colour. Ferranti says that each colour has its own recipe and season, but whether you choose a classic black or the eclectic electricity of Santoni’s blues, there really is no wrong choice. In the end, we went for something classic: a gorgeous pair of handbrushed brown wing tips. Formal, elegant and timeless, they would just as easily suit a modern businessman making the mark of an unforgettable first impression as they would on a young Sherlock Holmes, drifting with thought as their clatter echoed through the downy fog of an ethereal London night. You can accuse us of being too evocative here, but then again, when you’re wearing Santoni, it’s easy to run away with your imagination.

. sur la terre . out of the box .

115


m A r k e t pl Ac e

wElcoME

to tHE slt

MaRkEtplacE.

a go-to gUiDE

oF tHE Hot pRoDUcts yoU sHoUlD BE BUyiNg, availaBlE iN tHE local MaRkEt Now.

cUFFliNks FRoM akillis’ LICENSE TO AKILLIS RaNgE is availaBlE at tHE BaHRaiN jEwEllERy cENtRE, al aali coMplEx, MaNaMa aND tHE akillis BoUtiqUE iN DUBai Mall.

BaccaRat’s MYSTÈRE collEctioN is availaBlE at BaccaRat BoUtiqUEs REgioN-wiDE aND ExclUsivEly iN DoHa tHRoUgH taNagRa, villaggio Mall.

DioR cHiFFRE RoUgE M01 39MM watcH, availaBlE ExclUsivEly iN DoHa tHRoUgH ali BiN ali watcHEs & jEwEllERy

116

. sur la terre . market place .


DioR cHRistal violEttE 33MM watcH availaBlE ExclUsivEly iN DoHa tHRoUgH ali BiN ali watcHEs & jEwEllERy

RoBERto coiN RiNg FRoM tHE DRAGON COLLECTION, availaBlE iN qataR tHRoUgH DaMas at laNDMaRk aND city cENtRE Mall, aND at tHE RoBERto coiN BoUtiqUE at waFi city Mall iN DUBai.

BElts FRoM paUl sMitH’s spRiNg/sUMMER 2012 collEctioN, availaBlE iN DoHa at tHE gatE, aND at paUl sMitH BoUtiqUEs tHRoUgHoUt tHE REgioN.

. sur la terre . market place .

117


Between the lines

It’s l the n uxury by umer ical mnumbers .T ake-u p of o his time ur tw in Bet ween o fea The L ture d themes ines : Boa we look ts an d Blin at g.

165 me tres 1

982

$2,01 9

The le Ecl ngth of t ipse h , whi e world’s Chels ch la ea FC owne is owne rgest meg a r, Romand by oligar yacht, ch an The Abramovic d T p r he y i c e per Gold e . D ubai ar the fi to rea Bullion ounce t I rst ntern Bo

is pre hat ch by N The ovem dicted s p ber 20 e the w ed ac hiev ate 12

at Sh ow w ational as he ld.

317mp h

powe rboatr speed reed by Ken , a rec ord wcord aboa Warb y hich, 34 yerd The S in 1978 ars on p t , has nirit of Auo claim The ot bee strali co n bea a piece st of the ten. w o o f rld’s dia wi

US$3 0 Mil lion

2,525

mon most th m D fla ore than d jewelle expensiv ry w e 1 Rose less diam 50-carats , a bikin n w on i of ith S tei n ds created category met by Su The z D sa n iam on d of d record-brea s. single iamonds king num b Swan ring. Th set into er The Lobo , made b e Tsarev a size y r n of th Hous tas Class Kiev-bas a e, ha e i c d e Je India s -sourc 10.48-ca wellery worth ed g r sold f ems ats of w o h $ a r 1 nd is i .3 million ch $16 m but T

ats

38,00 0

101.1 C ar

Sothe Diam by’s Wh ond, ite

i c value urrently hllion, of $ 23 a millios a n.

118

he . on thnumber of e s MS T olar ce Planet lls ûranor ship, Solar circum the firs eco using navigatet boat tot just solar he globe energ y.

. sur la terre . between the lines .


aRound tHe SHow a guide to Doha jewellery & watches and DiBs 2012

Doha jewellery & watches show 2012 stars of the show page 120

Dubai international Boat show 2012 the greatest show on water page 124

. sur la terre . around the show .

119


around the show

Qatar Jewellery & Watches Exhibition 2012

stars of the show Sur la Terre peers behind the red velvet rope of the 2012 Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition to introduce you to the crème de la crème of this year’s purveyors of watches and gems.

Fifty One East

Ever since it was first established way back in the 1940s, Fifty One East has been amongst the premier of premium products in the country. Rolex, Boucheron, Tudor, Armand Nicolet, H.Moser & Cie, Faberge, Victor Mayer, Charles Oudin, Vulcain, Pasquale Bruni, Fitzroy, Diamante, Roberto Demeglio, Alena Gorchakova and Guy Laroche, are but a few of the prestigious names associated with and available at Fifty One East. Theirs is a stand that showcases the best of the best at every Jewellery & Watches exhibition, so it has become understandably one of its most popular exhibitors. If prior shows and the whispers of this year’s available collections are any indication, Fifty One East is once again going to be a very big presence in 2012. If you’re looking for the most exceptional pieces in watches and jewellery, all you have to do is head east - Fifty One East.

Ali Bin Ali

It doesn’t come much bigger, better or brighter than Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc, Omega, DeWitt, Richard Mille, David Morris, Dior Jewellery, Hermes, Bertolucci, Ulysse Nardin or any of the other high-end brands with which the mega-name Ali Bin Ali makes its presence known on the high-end watch and jewellery scene in Qatar. It is because of such affiliations, and its own historical significance, that the Ali Bin Ali name is so highly regarded and respected in the country. Founded in 1955, the luxury retail arm of the company has become synonymous with quality, excellence and unquestionable opulence. Its clientele includes the most exclusive members of international V.I.P.s, and is comprised of selective celebrities, discerning debutantes, admiring afficionados and status symbols alike. If you are looking to get better acquainted with pure prestige, exceptional elegance and quintessential quality in the realms of ultra-chic watches and jewellery, get thee to the Ali Bin Ali stand and get a glimpse of greatness.

120

. sur la terre . around the show .


Alfardan Jewellery

If you are from, live in or have ever visited Qatar, you will have heard the name Alfardan. Of course, that success did not just happen overnight; it has been building since its legend first began forming in the latter half of the 19th century. Its luxury branch in particular has, since its establishment in 1954, become one of the most renowned jewellery and timepiece distributors in the Gulf, let alone in its hometown of Qatar. Rubbing elbows, as well as wrists, necklines and earlobes, with an impressive fleet of fine names such as Chopard, Franck Muller, Gerard-Perregaux, Baume & Mercier, Harry Winston, Piaget, Tiffany, Breguet Vacheron Constantin and Gerald Genta, Alfardan doles out the decadence on a daily basis. Their stand at this year’s exhibition is similarly set to impress and arrest your attention as you saunter around the show. This Doha-based delight is a must-visit for every luxury lover.

Al Majed Jewellery

Yet another local legend, Al Majed Jewellery began over a century ago in Qatar with Ali Al Majed, whose trade within the tradition of pearl diving afforded him the expertise to establish within his sons a great passion for the precious things in life. With an inherited inspiration, Ali’s son Mahdi set out on his own to embark upon new ventures that would take his family name to uncharted territory. Trading in pearls provided the initial boon of the Al Majed name, but it was Mahdi’s business brawn that allowed him to keep afloat in a sea of troubles as the natural pearling industry gave way to modern cultivation, and of course, the newfound oil and gas wealth in the Gulf. Diversifying after 1940 into diamonds and gold, Al Majed Jewellery is now seen as one of the region’s most premium names, associating with such brands as Hublot, Jaeger Lecoultre, Parmigiani in watchmaking, and Gucci and Ambrosi in jewellery.

. sur la terre . around the show .

121


Mouawad

What began in 1883 with intrepid journeyman David Mouawad scouring the world to hone his skills in fine watchmaking and jewellery creation has become one of the finest names in international haute joaillierie in the world today. Lebanon-born David spent years building a family legacy before passing the natural talent he cultivated and business acumen he garnered down to his son Fayez, who not only continued his father’s travel and trade, but was also one of the first to usher in famous brands from the west into his then-home, Saudi Arabia. The next generation of the family’s success and renown was led by Robert Mouawad, who cast its legacy into a household name. Robert’s sons Fred, Alain and Pascal continued this meteoric rise by associating the brand with such celebrity starlets as Heidi Klum, Kim Kardashian and Jessica Simpson. Mouawad seemingly always graces itself with greatness; in fact, no less than three times has the Mouawad name appeared in the Guinness World Records list, with the most expensive single pear-shaped diamond in 1990, the most expensive bra in 2003 and the world’s most expensive handbag in 2010. With its century-spanning lineage, unquestionable star power and fierce attention to ageless beauty in design, Mouawad is by far one of the most captivating stands to see at this year’s show.

Al Zain Jewellery

Al Zain Jewellery was one of the first houses to bring jewellery to Bahrain way back in 1930, when Abdulla Al Zain first introduced international jewels to the Gulf market via Europe and Lebanon. Since then, particularly after its relaunch in 1977, Al Zain has enjoyed an ever-increasing global presence with a focus on regional excellence and international acclaim, both of which it has achieved. The awardwinning house has brought home several accolades, including the Gold Virtuosi Award and the prestigious Tahitian Pearl Design trophy. Known far and wide as “The Architect of Dreams,” Al Zain is an exhibition stalwart and its presence is always looked forward to, with an always-enticing stand befitting its local lineage and impressively larger than life standing within the international ether of elegance. Trust us, if you don’t stop by the Al Zain stand this year, you will be doing yourself a great disfavour!

122

. sur la terre . around the show .


Amiri Gems

As a member of the Nasser Bin Khaled Group, Amiri Gems has been sauntering through Doha’s sumptuous, style-laden society since 1994. That may make it younger than some of the other exhibitors at this year’s show, but it is in no way less distinguished. In fact, its dealings with stately sophistication has quickly pushed it to the head of class. Known for its near peerless proficiency in selecting the most magnificent diamonds and coloured gems, Amiri Gems is well placed next to the jewellers with which it works, such as Adler, Palmeiro and Chatila. The high-end company also associates itself with timeless elegance, not ironically, in its timepieces, dealing with masters of the minute like Concord, Frank Villa, Concord, Jacob & Co and many others. High profile and scintillating with a celebrity sparkle all its own, Amiri Gems is set to hypnotise high-end clientele in a splendid spell not likely to fade even when you stagger away from its stand. Then again, you may not want to leave at all.

. sur la terre . around the show .

123


around the show

Dubai International Boat Show 2012

The Greatest Show on Water As the Dubai International Boat Show celebrates its 20th Anniversary, Sur la Terre serves up the pick of this year’s exhibiting yacht builders. -

Alfardan Marine

Flying the flag for Qatar, Alfardan Marine Services is the Alfardan Group’s leisure marine division, specialising in luxury yachts, boats, engines, GPS systems and a full range of marine equipment and after-sales services. It is also Qatar’s exclusive dealer of yachts and boats from Riva-Ferretti Group, Dominator, Monterey and Dalla Pieta, as well as products from Aqua Culture, Avia Sports and Aqualung. Serving customers from small

124

boat owners and fishermen, to marine-related companies and yacht owners, Alfardan Marine is committed to position itself as one of the region’s best and most luxurious marine service companies. The company will be showing its latest deliveries from Riva, Dominator and Monterey at the 20th anniversary of the Dubai International Boat Show, as well as a full range of other products and services from its portfolio.

. sur la terre . around the show .


ART Marine

ART Marine is one of the leading 360 degree marine hospitality companies in the region and will be using the 20th edition of DIBS to launch a raft of new boats, as well as the latest tech from its Product Division. The relatively new venture, launched at last year’s show, is dedicated to providing eager seamen with marine products and accessories through brands such as Arimar tenders and liferafts, Finscan fingerprint control systems, Hidea outboard engines and Karavan jetski and boat trailers, among others. On the water, though, the company will be showing new models from Atlantis, Azimut, Four Winns, Grady White, Numarine and Riviera. ART Marine is also a regional distributor of Benetti, whose yacht building yards are some of the oldest in the world. Founded in 1873, Benetti delivers world-class mega yachts between 25 metres and 84 metres, which couple a traditional boatbuilding ethos with state-of-the-art technology.

Gulf Craft

Gulf Craft is set for another successful Dubai International Boat Show, with its respected portfolio of brands, which includes Majesty Yachts, Oryx and Silvercraft. Since 1982, the UAE-based company has been one of the largest and leading-most manufacturers of luxury leisure craft in the Middle East. The company has a real affinity with DIBS, and it is the show at the heart of Gulf Craft’s success, with both the company and the event growing in tandem. Gulf Craft is consistently one of the show’s largest exhibitors at the Dubai International Boat Show and always uses the event as a platform to launch a fleet of new products. Last year, the company exhibited no less than 14 boats, five of which were global premieres.

Lurssen Yachts

Lurssen has earned a reputation worldwide for its highclass custom super yachts. The combination of constant improvement and innovation over the last 136 years, the high quality of work, the dedicated workforce, its discretion and, above all, its close interaction with its clients, are all highly-valued attributes that keep its high-wealth customers returning. Despite the widely reported financial crisis that engulfed the world beween 2008 and 2011, in the last two years the company has delivered eight super-yachts, culminating in one of the company’s busiest periods, with several more yachts under construction. The shipyard builds and markets yachts from 60m to well over 150m and the company is expected to be showing some of its latest examples at the 2012 DIBS.

. sur la terre . around the show .

125


Sunseeker Middle East

The Spirit of Sunseeker is the pursuit of sea-faring excellence, matched with the courage to break new barriers in marine technology and innovation. Few brands can claim to rank amongst the world’s finest, but Sunseeker is one of them, and is renowned the world over as a brand with enormous global strength, built up over more than 40 years. Founded in the 1960s by brothers Robert and John Braithwaite, Sunseeker products soon became the boys-toys of choice for the mega

rich from Antibes to the Bahamas. Sunseeker motor boats have turned up in James Bond films – the ultimate product endorsement – and Robert Braithwaite even made a cameo appearance in Quantum of Solace, 007’s 2009 spectacular. Building fine boats and yachts up to 155m, the company uses the latest computer-aided design technology and the most state-of-the-art building methods to create products that will forever be some of the ultimate ocean-going status symbols.

Trinity Yachts

Using steel and aluminium construction to build super-yachts of up to 122 metres in length, Trinity Yachts has carved out a place for itself in the pantheon of elite custom yacht builders. When it says custom-built, it means it. Offering clients a full choice of hull designs, propulsion systems and everything from interior fixtures to fittings, which are selected from only the finest materials available and beautifully finished by master craftsmen, to deliver boats that not only realise the dreams of the client but suit their ocean-going needs in a practical way. Trinity aligns itself with renowned naval architects and interior designers to deliver some of the finest boats on the water today and more than 50 percent of their orders come from repeat clients.

126

. sur la terre . around the show .


Subscription form 2012 I wish to subscribe to the magazine at the special price of QR 350 per year (6 issues):

Demand drafts payable to:

Firefly Communications in US Dollars or Qatar Riyals only.

Telex Transfer to:

Firefly Communications A/C No. 4580-5820-88001 Commercial Bank of Qatar Grand Hamad Corporate Branch P.O. Box 3232, Doha, Qatar SWIFT CODE: CBAQAQAQ

Qatar Riyals cheques acceptable in Qatar.

Last Name:

Company:

First Name:

Designation:

Address:

P.O.Box: Area Code:

Tel:

City:

E-mail:

Country:

Date and Signature:

If you would like to become one of the exclusive advertisers in Sur La Terre, please contact:

Julia Toon Regional Sales Director

Tel: +974 44 340 360 / +974 44 340 354

Mob: +974 66 880 228 Fax: +974 44 340 359 e-mail: j.toon@firefly-me.com

P.O. Box 11596, Doha-Qatar. Tel: +974 44340360 Fax: +974 44340359 e-mail: info@surlaterre-me.com Website: www.surlaterre-me.com

. sur la terre . subscription .

127


PP 16176/12/2009(023112)

Publications Director Mohamed Jaidah m.jaidah@firefly-me.com - Editorial Regional Managing Editor James McCarthy j.mccarthy@firefly-me.com

KUALA LUMPUR >

K U A L A L U M P U R S U R L A T E R R E > I S S U E 2 > J U LY - S E P T E M B E R 2 0 0 9 > R M 1 2

DETAILS

sur la terre

2

Senior Editor Steve Paugh s.paugh@firefly-me.com Fashion & Style Sophie Jones-Cooper s.jones-cooper@firefly-me.com Copy Editor Megan Masterson Contributors Siobhán Corley-Richards Kevin Hackett Gaëlle Hennet Danny Issa - Art & Design Creative Director Roula Zinati Ayoub

Sur La Terre International S.A.

Art Direction Rena Chehayber

Head office 26 avenue de la Praille 1227, Geneva, Switzerland. Tel: + 41 22 310 48 00 Fax: + 41 22 310 48 01

Designers Teja Jaganjac Finaliser Michael Logaring Photography Herbert Villadelrey Johan Madarasz - Sales & Marketing Regional Sales Director Julia Toon j.toon@firefly-me.com Area Manager Bahrain-Qatar Chirine Halabi c.halabi@firefly-me.com - Printing & Distribution Distribution Manager Azqa Haroon a.haroon@firefly-me.com Logistics Dan Louis Javier - Printer Raidy Printing Group, Dubai www.raidy.com

- Publisher Firefly Communications PO Box 11596, Doha, Qatar. Tel: +974 4434 0360 Fax: +974 4434 0359 info@firefly-me.com www.firefly-me.com

128

Cover Image: Monica Bellucci for Cartier Sortilège de Cartier collection Photographer: Francesco Escalar © Cartier 2011

. sur la terre . details .

Cover Image: Yacht Sailing Against Sunset Photographer: Anna Subbotina


Sur_La_Terre-issue18  

Sur_La_Terre-issue18