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March Francesco del Cossa, detail of the frescoes in the Hall of Months (Salone dei Mesi) Palazzo Schifanoia, Ferrara


Cities of Art... Simply sensational, visit after visit


How does a place get to your heart? It’s usually a matter of emotions, that subtle thrill you sometimes feel in a very special place. This is what Emilia Romagna’s cities of art offer us – they stir our emotions. Each of the 10 cities of art in our region has its own kind of magic that still lingers whether in Renaissance squares, sixteenth-century courtyards, old solitary parishes standing along lowland roads, medieval castles or unique museums.The main destinations are Piacenza, Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, Ferrara, Ravenna, Faenza, Forlì and Cesena, and Rimini. These cities and towns often don’t feature on the typical tourist circuit, which makes them all the more surprising and interesting. It is no coincidence that three of the towns of Emilia Romagna have been included in Unesco’s World Heritage List. First up is Ravenna with eight of its historical sites and buildings, a town full of magnificent mosaics. The second town is Ferrara with its charming town center and the grand residences where the Este dukes used to hold balls and banquets (delizie). Last but not least, there is the Piazza Grande in Modena, including one of the finest Romanesque cathedrals in Europe and the Ghirlandina tower.What’s more, those destinations are so close to each other that it is easy to include many of them in a single tour. For example, Piacenza, the town of castles, is not far from Parma, the world capital of music, food and wine, that has a somewhat Parisian atmosphere about it. Or Reggio Emilia, between the River Po and the lands of Countess Matilda of Canossa. Bologna, the most renowned city in Emilia Romagna, has the longest porticoes in the world and Piazza Maggiore, one of the most spectacular squares


in Europe. Small Faenza is famous for its typical ceramics (faience, named after the town). Then there’s Forlì and Cesena, where every stone tells the story of the House of Malatesta. And finally Rimini, better known for its beaches, but nonetheless full of beautiful monuments dating back to the Renaissance and even Roman times. So, forget the excuses and visit Emilia Romagna. A brief art-and-culture trip is fun and easy to arrange. First of all, it can be short (one weekend is often enough); secondly, when in Italy, you can travel by car (no planes to catch) and save on travel costs. Thirdly, you will experience things you will never forget. This guide is intended for two kinds of reades: those who have never been to Emilia Romagna and want to learn more about this great open-air museum and its finest works of art; and those who are already here visiting it. In this guide you will find useful addresses, phone numbers, information and curious facts that, we hope, will help you in choosing your destinations and getting around the region. The ten main towns are presented according to their geographical position, from north to south. The guide is about 160 pages long and contains several colour pictures, information boxes, short notes on curiosities, tourist itineraries both in and out of town. Tourist itineraries are arranged according to their focus, whether it be history, old residences and traditions (including main festivals and costume events). This is not to mention other aspects to interest the cultured tourist: local food and wine, sought-after specialities to taste, art and handicrafts, typical souvenirs and memorabilia, important local events.This guide would never have been possible without the support of “Unione di Prodotto Città d’Arte,


Cultura e Affari” or the Udp (Union of Cities of Art, Culture and Business). It is just one of the several initiatives of our Union, that, as its name suggests, is the result of an alliance between the region’s historic and art towns, with the aim of promoting cultural tours. This project has been made possible thanks to the cooperation between the public sector (represented by about 20 institutions) and approximately 40 private members, such as product-promoting clubs, groups or entrepreneurs’ associations. The results of our cooperation are there for everyone to see: cultureoriented tourism in Emilia Romagna has been one of the most dynamic trends on the scene of European tourism during the past few years. The main package holidays, usually including important exhibitions, or trips focusing on food and wine, can be found in the booklet enclosed with the guide or at our regularly updated website www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it. At Udp we believe that Emilia Romagna is the most extraordinary place in the world. And we should know – because we live here! We hope that this guide will help you plan out a journey that will be a feast for your heart and soul rather than just a feast for your eyes.

Marco Macciantelli Marco Macciantelli President of Unione di Prodotto Città d’Arte, Cultura e Affari


CONTENTS Piacenza

4 Introduction Piacenza, a town of art between the River Po and the Apennines 14 Art and culture 16 Handicrafts 17 Food and wine 19 Sightseeing in and around Piacenza 20 Around Piacenza 22 Museums 23 Events

Parma

Parma, a town of art, music, food and wine 24 Art and culture 26 Handicrafts 27 Food and wine 29 Sightseeing in and around Parma 30 Around Parma 32 Museums 33 Events

Reggio Emilia

Reggio Emilia, home of the Italian ag 34 Art and culture 36 Handicrafts 37 Food and wine 39 Sightseeing in and around Reggio Emilia 40 Around Reggio Emilia 42 Museums 43 Events

Modena

Modena, a town rich in culture, food, wine and prestige car-makers 44 Art and culture 46 Handicrafts 47 Food and wine 49 Sightseeing in and around Modena 50 Around Modena 52 Museums 53 Events


CONTENTS Bologna

Bologna, the city of culture 54 Art and culture 56 Handicrafts 57 Food and wine 59 Sightseeing in and around Bologna 60 Around Bologna 62 Museums 63 Events

Ferrara

Ferrara, earth and water 64 Art and culture 66 Handicrafts 67 Food and wine 69 Sightseeing in and around Ferrara 70 Around ferrara 72 Museums 73 Events

Ravenna

Ravenna, the capital of mosaics 74 Art and culture 76 Handicrafts 77 Food and wine 79 Sightseeing in and around Ravenna 80 Around Ravenna 82 Museums 83 Events

Faenza

Faenza, the town of pottery and ceramics 84 Art and culture 86 Handicrafts 87 Food and wine 88 Museums 89 Events


CONTENTS Forlì-Cesena

Rimini

Forlì and Cesena, the feeling of Romagna 90 Art and culture 92 Handicrafts 93 Food and wine 95 Sightseeing in and around Forlì and Cesena 96 Around Forlì and Cesena 98 Museums 99 Events Rimini, the land of hospitality 100 Art and culture 102 Handicrafts 103 Food and wine 105 Sightseeing in and around Rimini 106 Around Rimini 108 Museums 109 Events

Historical itineraries 112 Out of the light and into darkness: Byzantium and the Middle Ages 115 Harmony and beauty: along the roads of the Renaissance 119 From the Enlightenment to Romanticism through epic revolutions: itineraries across the modern age Itineraries of old residences 122 The glory days of old stately homes 126 Castles and fortresses between legend and history 129 Charming villages and romantic landscapes In search of past traditions 132 A day out in the past: costume events 137 Old crafts and traditions 139 Historical roads: on the trail of pilgrims 143 Food and wine 148 IAT-Tourist offices 149 Getting there 156 Notes/journal


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KEY TO SYMBOLS

HISTORICAL TOURS

TOURS OF OLD RESIDENCES

IN SEARCH OF PAST TRADITIONS

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INFORMATION

PROTECTED DENOMINATION OF ORIGIN REGISTERED AND CERTIFIED DENOMINATION OF ORIGIN

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REGISTERED DENOMINATION OF ORIGIN

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PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION

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LOCAL GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION


The region


Piacenza, a town of art between the River Po and the Apennines A look at the equestrian statue in Piazza Cavalli and you can almost feel the fierce wind blowing through Alessandro Farnese’s hair and his steed’s mane. The stern warrior prince has been in the saddle for over 400 years, hardly noticing the thousands of visitors he attracts every year. The story of Alessandro’s adventurous life is just one of the many tales Piacenza has to tell. This is a unique town, built on the banks of the river Po and surrounded by the Apennines. It was a passage for princes and pilgrims, crusaders and Templars, traders and artists. Are you ready to find out its secrets and plunge into its dreamy atmosphere? ART AND CULTURE What would you do if you were married to a man you didn’t love, but who was extremely rich and powerful? Margaret of Austria (1522-86), Charles V’s blood daughter, chose to stand by her husband Ottavio Farnese and live in Piacenza. Instead, she turned her devotion to her son Alessandro Farnese, who would later become Europe’s most renowned captain. Still, Margaret hankered for the dreamlike opulence she had seen in the grandest courts of that time. So she had a fabulously grand palace planned for her – never mind if the medieval castle of the Visconti family had to be demolished to make room for it. In its turn, however, Margaret’s palace also went down in history. This is how the Palazzo Farnese (1558) was built and became one of the finest princely palaces in Italy, thus making the perfect starting point for a tour of Piacenza. Despite the fact that Margaret’s plans were never fully accomplished, the palace is huge: three floors, grand staircases, frescoed rooms, several museums, a picture gallery with a precious Tondo by Botticelli and a vast basement where as many as 14

Cathedral

Piazza Duomo

Galleria Ricci Oddi


PIACENZA 50 antique coaches and carriages are still kept. Piacenza bears many other traces of the House of Farnese. First of all, two of Europe’s finest bronze equestrian monuments, those of Alessandro Farnese and his son Ranuccio, after which the nicest square in Piacenza was named Piazza Cavalli (Square of the Horses). The square is dominated by the symbol of Piacenza, Il Gotico or Palazzo del Comune (Town Hall), an elegant example of Lombard-Gothic architecture, porticoed and topped by fishtail battlements. It was built by a Guelph merchant, Alberto Scoto, in 1281, at the time of strife between Guelphs and Ghibellines. The church of San Francesco, just off the square, is full of works of art such as a moving Pietà. A few steps away you will find Piazza Duomo and the impressive Romanesque cathedral built in pink marble (12th century). Another sight you can’t miss is the Teatro Municipale (1804), whose facade resembles that of La Scala in Milan: it was planned by Alessandro Sanquirico, a stage designer at La Scala, who also decorated the interiors of the Municipale. The other stage of Piacenza is the Teatro dei Filodrammatici, formerly the 16th-century church of Santa Franca, converted into a theatre in the early 20th century. Its current facade in Art-Nouveau style was designed by the local architect Gazzola. Housed in a building in Neoclassical style at Via San Siro 13, the Galleria Ricci-Oddi contains 850 paintings and sculptures dating from the 19th and 20th centuries including works by Boccioni, Carrà, Campigli, Funi, De Pisis. Just out of the town centre, along the Via Emilia, Collegio Alberoni houses a collection of Flemish tapestries and a picture gallery including a superb Ecce Homo by Antonello Messina, beside the Museum of Natural Sciences (Museo di Scienze Naturali) and an observatory. Alessandro Farnese

CURIOSITY MUSEO DELLE CARROZZE You won’t find another museum of carriages anywhere else in the world. Housed in the fabulous Palazzo Farnese, the coaches still seem to be frozen in procession: rare formal and travel berlins, stages, landaus, coupés de ville, coaches and unique 18th- and 19th-century carriages are exhibited here. Among others is the coach used by the king of Italy Vittorio Emanuele II (1879), on loan from the Quirinal..

 INFO

IAT (Tourist office) Piacenza Tel. +39/(0)523/329.324 Musei Civici di Palazzo Farnese Tel. +39/(0)523/328.270 www.musei.piacenza.it Galleria d’Arte Moderna Ricci Oddi Tel. +39/(0)523/320.742 www.comune.piacenza.it Collegio Alberoni Tel. +39/(0)523/577.011

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HANDICRAFTS

A craftswoman’s shop

High quality handicrafts can be found throughout the Nure valley, in particular in Grazzano Visconti, where several “schools” of wrought iron and carpentry are still active. If you are interested in taking home original souvenirs, go for a traditional oboe (piffero) or bagpipes (musa). The tunes played on these instruments, whose origins are lost in the past, can still be heard in the popular festivals of local villages such as Marsaglia, Brugnello, Pianello Valtidone or Vernasca. You can buy them from one of the (few) remaining craftsmen’s shops that still produce them. Nure valley hand-painted pottery is another good choice for a memento. Traditional woodwork (such as handmade and inlaid furniture) can be found everywhere in and around Piacenza, but the best place to find interesting things is the antique and collectables market in town.

Wrought iron

Etruscan liver

CURIOSITY ETRUSCAN LIVER You might remember from your schoolbooks the haruspices who used the entrails of animals to tell the future. Well, the star attraction of the Museo Civico in Palazzo Farnese is a bronze sheep’s liver marked with inscriptions and a division of the skies. It is a unique object dating from the 2nd or perhaps the 1st century BC. It was probably a sort of textbook for students learning the difficult art of divination.

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virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it


PIACENZA FOOD AND WINE A trip to Piacenza is a pleasure for your palate! Did you know: the province of Piacenza has the highest number of Doc wines and Dop products in the whole Emilia-Romagna region (see p. 11 for Doc and Dop). Its treasures are three great Dop salami: Coppa, Pancetta and Salame. Dop certification ensures that these products are made using pork meat obtained exclusively from locally reared pigs, which is then cured following strict protocols, ensuring the most delicious results. Other great products of this area are Dop Grana Padano and Dop Provolone Valpadana cheeses. The most popular local dish, pisarei e fasò, consists of dumplings made from stale bread served with an unusual sauce of red bean (you need seven beans for each dumpling). Pasta specialities include traditional anolini (small tortellini filled with stewed meat and served in broth) and “tailed tortelli” (tortelli con la coda), which was served at the tables of 18thcentury aristocrats and consists of a thin layer of pasta rolled out by hand and filled with herbs and ricotta cheese, then twisted like sweet wrappers. Among the meat dishes, roast pork (coppa) and picula ad caval (horse tartare served with tomatoes, onion and peppers) are worth a taste. These dishes require the appropriate wines – you can choose from among 17 local varieties, such as the Ortrugo white. The wine culture here is thousands of years old: it is said in Latin, “Vinum merum placentinum laetificat” – genuine wine from Piacenza will lift your spirits.

DOP Coppa Piacentina

Local specialities

Barrels of Gutturnio wine

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SIGHTSEEING

in and around Piacenza

CITIES OF ART • Piacenza: Basilica of Sant’Antonino, Basilica of Santa Maria di Campagna, Church of San Savino, Church of San Sisto, Collegio Alberoni, Cathedral, Galleria d’arte Ricci Oddi, Palazzo Farnese (Cittadella), Il Gotico, Piazza Cavalli • Bobbio: Abbey of San Colombano, Cathedral, Castle, Ponte Gobbo (Hunchback Bridge) • Castell’ Arquato: Medieval village, Rocca Viscontea, Palazzo Pretorio (Praetor’s palace), Collegiate church • Grazzano Visconti: Neo-Gothic village • Vigoleno: Medieval village, Castle, Romanesque parish church • Cortemaggiore: Piazza Grande, Collegiate church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, Franciscan monastery WILDLIFE RESERVES • Riserva naturale Geologica del Piacenziano, Oasi de Pinedo (Caorso)

PARKS • Parco Regionale Fluviale dello Stirone, Parco Provinciale Morfasso-Veleia

CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES • The castles (castello) of Agazzano, Anguissola di Travo, Castelnuovo Fogliani, Gropparello, Bobbio (Castello Malaspina), Paderna, Podenzano, Rezzanello, Rivalta, San Giorgio, San Pietro in Cerro; the village of Vigoleno and its keep (mastio); the fortresses (rocca) of Borgonovo, Castell’Arquato, Caorso (Rocca Mandelli), Monticelli (Rocca Pallavicino), Pianello; Rocca D’Olgisio; Villa Verdi in Sant’Agata (Villanova sull’Arda), Villa Tavernago

GOLF CLUBS • Croara Country Club (18 holes - Croara Nuova Gazzola), Castell’Arquato Golf Club (18 holes), Castello La Bastardina Golf Club (9 holes - Agazzano)

THEATRES • Teatro Municipale in Piacenza, Teatro dei Filodrammatici in Piacenza, Teatro Verdi in Castel San Giovanni

WINE-PRODUCING TOWNS • Borgonovo Val Tidone, Castel San Giovanni, Pianello Val Tidone, Ziano Piacentino

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) • Food and wine trail of the hills around Piacenza (Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori dei Colli Piacentini)

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Piacenza, a town of art between the River Po and the Apennines Around Piacenza Bobbio

Grazzano Visconti

Castell’Arquato

CURIOSITY ANTIQUES IN CORTEMAGGIORE It is difficult to tell whether you need patience or mere luck to find a unique object and a bargain. Sure enough, having a look at the 300 stalls from all Italy is great fun! Every first Sunday of the month, February to December. Info: Pro Loco Tel. +39/(0)523/839.080, comune.cortemaggiore@sintranet.it

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The area around Piacenza is a fairytale landscape full of castles, strongholds, fortresses and palaces, scattered with hills that gently slope down to the plain, spurs of rock and a multitude of well-preserved manors. A tour of the castles around Piacenza is an interesting idea for an adventurous and romantic weekend away. There is a special tourist route for those who love to hear tales of dukes and ladies in their castles (look out, you might still see them appearing at a window!). The 273 meter (300 yard) long walk over the cobblestones of Ponte Gobbo (Hunchback Bridge) in Bobbio, a town of the Trebbia valley, is a mystical experience rather than just physical exercise. At each sudden rise of this oddly crooked bridge, the old story comes to mind of the battle between Saint Columbanus, still a common monk in those medieval days, and Satan – a fight that left the eleven arches of the bridge higgledy piggledy, and that accounts for the other name of the bridge, Ponte del Diavolo (devil’s bridge). One never grows tired of listening to the tales of these valleys. In Bobbio, people still talk about the origins of the grand porticoed abbey of San Colombano, founded on this spur of rock in 614 by Columbanus and the Lombard king Agilulf, who were directed by God. It instantly became a favourite destination for pilgrims from Italy and abroad, and the old town and castle grew around it.The atmosphere of Grazzano is completely different. Grazzano is a perfect early 20th-century reconstruction of a medieval village, built on a potato field around an original medieval manor. The village, which includes a school, a carpenter’s shop, a blacksmith’s workshop, an embroidery school and villagers dressed in medieval costumes, was created by Giovanni Visconti di Modrone, father of film director Luchino Visconti. The nearby town of Pontenure is dominated by the castle of Paterna, one of the most interesting manors of the area. Built in 817, for a long time it was the property of the monastery of San Savino; today it houses an organic farm. It would be a shame to miss Castell’Arquato. It is a small medieval town, with a castle built by the Visconti family and the


old village built in stone, perched on the top of a Pliocene hill on the slopes of the Apennines, where the Po sea (Mare Padano) used to flow in prehistoric days. The Rocca d’Olgisio in the Tidone valley, near the border between Emilia Romagna and Piemonte, dominates the valley and is framed by two mountain streams; and probably due to its strategic position, it is one of the oldest fortresses around Piacenza (6th century). Today it is a bed & breakfast.The British Royal Family were among the frequent guests of the castle of Rivalta in Gazzola (1048), one of the most charming Italian manors, perched on a spur of rock directly overlooking the river Trebbia. Although inhabited by a family of counts, the Landi – it became the property of this family in the 15th century – its frescoed rooms, among which a grand hall with a monumental fireplace, are open to the public. Finally, if you are a music lover, you simply must visit Villa Verdi in Sant’Agata (Villanova d’Arda), bought and partly rebuilt by the Maestro. Verdi lived here from 1850 to his death.

The castle of Rivalta

Villa Verdi

 INFO

Castello Pallavicino - Monticelli d’Ongina Tel. +39/(0)523/820.441 Villa Verdi - Sant’Agata di Villanova d’Arda Tel. +39/(0)523/830.000 info@villaverdi.org, www.villaverdi.org Castle of S.Pietro - S.Pietro in Cerro Tel. +39/(0)523/836.085 Castle of Vigoleno - Vernasca Tel. +39/(0)523/891.991 - 382 Castle of Rivalta - Gazzola Tel. +39/(0)523/978.104 segreteria@castellidelducato.it, www.castellodirivalta.it Rocca Viscontea - Castell’Arquato IAT Tourist office, Castell’Arquato Tel. +39/(0)523/803.091 iat@castellarquato.com Castle of Gropparello Tel. +39/(0)523/855.814 info@castellodigropparello.it, www.castellodigropparello.it Abbey of Chiaravalle della Colomba - Alseno Tel. +39/(0)523/940.132 Castle of Paderna - Pontenure Tel. +39/(0)523/511645 IAT Tourist office, Grazzano Visconti Tel. +39/(0)523/870.997 iat@grazzano.org Abbey of San Colombano - Bobbio Tel. +39/(0)523/936.018 Rocca d’Olgisio - Pianello V.T. info@roccadolgisio.it, www.roccadolgisio.it IAT Tourist office, Borgonovo V.T. Tel. +39/(0)523/861.210 iatborgonovo@libero.it

Rocca d’Olgisio

CURIOSITY HANNIBAL’S BATTLE The area around Gazzola and the River Trebbia is a truly historic place: in 218 BC, it became the field of the famous battle between Hannibal’s army, sporting African elephants, and the Roman legions. The battle ended in a crushing victory on the part of the Carthaginians.

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MUSEUMS IN PIACENZA

MUSEI CIVICI (civic museums), PALAZZO FARNESE The museums of archaeology, medieval art, carriages; the Pinacoteca (art gallery, including the Tondo by Botticelli), the Museo civico, the State archives, the ducal apartments with an interesting cycle of paintings (the fasti farnesiani or the splendour of the Farnese) are all housed in the palace of Ottavio Farnese and Margaret of Austria. Piazza Cittadella Tel. +39 (0)523/328.270 www.musei.piacenza.it COLLEGIO ALBERONI The College has housed a rich treasure of historical exhibits and works of art since 1733. Its picture gallery contains a superb Ecce Homo by Antonello da Messina; beside a collection of precious Flemish tapestries, it also has a science museum and an observatory. Via Emilia Parmense, 77 Tel. +39 (0)523/613.342 www.piacenzamusei.it MUSEO CIVICO DI STORIA NATURALE (natural history museum) Currently housed in 15th-century Palazzo Scotti da Fombio (but it will be moved to the former public slaughterhouse, a 19th-century building), the museum has spectacular zoological, geological, botanical and palaeontological collections containing several exhibits of great scientific value. Via Taverna, 37 Tel. +39 (0)523/334.980 info@musnat.pc.it, http://musnat.pc.it MUSEO D’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA - MIM (museum in motion) Housed in the charming attic of the 15th-century castle of San Pietro, one of the most beautiful manors around Piacenza, this superb collection contains over 300 works by the world’s greatest contemporary artists – an overview of the artistic trends from WWII to the present. The definition “Museum in motion” means that paintings, sculptures, graphic works and photographs are rotated regularly. Castello di S.Pietro Via Roma, 19 - S. Pietro in Cerro Tel. +39 (0)523/983.711 info@mimonline.it www.mimonline.it MUSEO GEOLOGICO (geological museum) “GIUSEPPE CORTESI”CASTELL’ARQUATO The palaeontological collection of this small museum, containing exhibits that have emerged from the ancient sea sediment of the area surrounding Castell’Arquato, is displayed in a conceptually coherent way, in order to make it easier for schoolchildren to understand the history of local geology. Via Sforza Caolzio c/o Ospedale Santo Spirito - Castell’Arquato Tel. +39 (0)523/804.266 www.museogeologico.it MUSEO DELLA CITTA’ (town museum) - BOBBIO Housed in the former refectory and lavabo of the monastery of San Colombano, this museum is a didactic introduction to the other museums and monuments of the town. Centro Culturale Comunale - Bobbio Tel. +39 (0)523/962.804

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EVENTS IN PIACENZA PIACENZA JAZZ FEST Concerts of great Italian and international jazz musicians, meetings with artists, seminars, short films and photo exhibitions. A festival steadily growing in its popularity; because jazz isn’t only music, but also culture. WHEN: February to April, preview in November WHERE: several locations COST: tickets from approx.12,00 euro INFO: IAT Piacenza Tel. +39 (0)523/329.324 Piacenza Jazz Club info@piacenzajazzclub.it, www.piacenzajazzclub.it CAROVANE A literary festival focused on the literature (including comics), poetry, music, and theatre from the developing world. Concerts, forums, meetings with authors, poetry prizes, exhibitions. WHEN: late August – early September WHERE: Piacenza - Piazza Duomo and other locations COST: free INFO: Libreria Fahrenheit 451 Tel. +39 (0)523/335.725, Fax+39(0)523/309.857 fahrenheit.451@libero.it, www.carovane.pc.it THEATRE SEASON AT THE TEATRO MUNICIPALE The old Teatro Municipale (1804) presents a rich season of events every year. The charming building, designed by the same architect who planned La Scala in Milan, houses top-level operas, concerts, dramas, ballets and other shows. WHEN: all the year WHERE: Teatro Municipale COST: ticket prices vary INFO: Teatro Municipale Tel. +39 (0)523/492.251-7 THEATRE AND ARCHAEOLOGY: VELEIA ROMANA A season of theatre and poetry readings in Latin, performed at night in the open-air archaeological site of Veleia Romana, with the audience sitting among the Roman ruins. WHERE: Veleia Lugaganano - archaeological site WHEN: July and August COST: ticket prices vary INFO: PiacenzaTurismi Tel. +39 (0)523/305.254, Fax +39 (0)523/309.298, infotur@piacenzaturismi.net THEATRE SEASON AT THE CASTLE OF VIGOLENO A theatre season against the splendid backdrop of the castle of Vigoleno. The stage is set up in the highest part of the medieval village, under the open sky. WHERE: Vigoleno Vernasca WHEN: summer COST: ticket prices vary INFO: Editorial office in Piacenza Tel. +39 (0)523/329.324 MARCO BELLOCCHIO’S FILM-MAKING COURSE How do you make a short film? What are the stages in the creation of a film? In addition to answering to such questions, the course run by world-famous film director Marco Bellocchio allows for meetings with professional actors and creative and technical staff. Students have been invited to show their works at several international festivals. WHERE: Bobbio WHEN: July COST: approx. 300,00 euro INFO: Tel.+39/(0)0523/962.804, corsocinema@comune.bobbio.pc.it

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The dome of the cathedral

Parma, a town of art, music, food and wine Parma is one of the most beautiful Italian towns, and proud of its beauty for that matter. It seems to wear its elegant, well-kept streets and buildings as a well-off, self-conscious woman would wear her jewels. The first visit to Parma is out of curiosity. The following are out of sheer love. It is impossible to resist the pervasive joie de vivre and sensuality – which satisfies all the senses – emanating from this town. It is no coincidence that Parma is the capital of great music (the world’s greatest composer, Giuseppe Verdi, was born here) and gourmet food and wine (just two names: DOP Parmigiano Reggiano and DOP Prosciutto di Parma, the local star specialities). ART AND CULTURE Her name was Marie Louise Habsburg and she was the daughter of the emperor of Austria. She was beautiful, powerful, and had lived in the most glamorous cities and courts of Europe. In 1816 she was granted the grand duchy of Parma by the Congress of Vienna, and she fell in love with it immediately and never left it, leaving her mark everywhere. It was she that commissioned the Teatro Regio, a world-famous opera house that contributed to the transformation of Parma into a splendid capital city. She opened the huge park surrounding her residence and the frescoed Palazzo Ducale (ducal palace) to the public. This initiative made her even more popular among her subjects. For those interested in the era of Marie Louise, the historical events, everyday life, art and society of the duchy of Parma, a visit to the Museo Glauco Lombardi, which contains exhibits dating from 1748 to 1859, is suggested. But there’s so much else to see and taste in Parma. The ideal starting point for a tour of the town is the medieval Piazza Duomo, dominated 24

Palazzo Ducale

Monument to Giuseppe Verdi


PARMA by one of the greatest Romanesque cathedrals in Italy (1059). It is noted for its classic gable facade, double loggia and its dome, representing angels and archangels floating up in dazzling light and swirling clouds, frescoed by Correggio between 1526 and 1530. The other eye-catching building in Piazza Duomo is the baptistery, the work of the most brilliant sculptor and architect of the Middle Ages, Benedetto Antelami. This distinctive Romanesque octagonal building anticipates Gothic proportions as it is taller than it is large. But that’s not all! It’s difficult to miss the 16th-century Palazzo della Pilotta, a huge building commissioned by Ranuccio I Farnese and originally meant to be a service centre with stables, barns, barracks, a theatre and a library. Today this must-see houses the Galleria Nazionale, one of the first Italian galleries both for the number of pictures it contains and for their importance. It groups together paintings by Leonardo da Vinci, Fra Angelico, Correggio, Tintoretto and Giulio Romano – all under one roof. It also houses the superb Teatro Farnese, one of the most charming historical theatres in the world. It is built entirely of wood and still equipped with old stage machinery. Music is the very lifeblood of Parma: this is the home of Giuseppe Verdi, the Teatro Regio, and great opera performances, not to mention the birthplace of Arturo Toscanini (1867-1957), and the adopted home of Niccolò Paganini. Paganini has even lent his name to the new auditorium (a converted sugar mill) designed by Renzo Piano. Last but not least, the Casa della Musica (house of music) in Renaissance Palazzo Cusani is the only music museum in Italy and also a research centre. Baptistery

CURIOSITY PUPPET CASTLE The castello dei burattini is the greatest Italian museum of animated theatre. Direct from the world of fantasy, glove puppets, marionettes, masks, costumes and playbills, many of them originals and valuable. Guided tours (reservations required), activities for school groups, conferences and animation, bookshop. Info: Tel. +39 (0)521/239.810 - 218.873 Fax +39 (0)521/221.591 www.comune.parma.it/castellodeiburattini

 INFO

IAT Tourist office, Parma Tel. +39 (0)521/218.889, Fax +39 (0)521/234.735 http://turismo.comune.parma.it Teatro Regio Tel. +39 (0)521/039.399 Parco Ducale Tel. +39 (0)521/5371 http://servizi.comune.parma.it/giardinoducale Palazzo Ducale Tel. +39 (0)521/282.868 Parma Turismi Tel.+39 (0)521/386.329, Fax +39 (0)521/223.161 parma.turismi@tin.it

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HANDICRAFTS The inevitable souvenir from Parma is the typical perfume produced in this town, the world-famous Violetta di Parma. Violets were the favourite flower of Marie-Louise, Napoleon’s second wife and eventual Duchess of Parma and Guastalla from 1816 to 1847. It was upon her request that the friars from Convento dell’Annunciata began to extract an essence closely resembling the scent of the real flower. The formula was intended to be kept secret, for private use only, but today it is available to the public. It is no accident that Parma houses the first Italian Perfume Museum (Museo della profumeria), in Palazzo Borsari. Leather works, too, are typical local handicrafts: here you can buy leather accessories with the exclusive “Made in Parma” label. For antique lovers, the Mercanteinfiera international exhibition provides the perfect occasion to buy antique objects and furniture, as does the town market held every Thursday under the porticoes of the Ospedale Vecchio (old hospital) in Via D’Azeglio. Here you will find plenty of stalls selling all sorts of things: dresses and lace trimmings, home furnishings, jewellery, books, comics and other bric-a-brac, alongside valuable objects certified and guaranteed to be authentic. Another welldeveloped local sector is organic and natural nonfood products such as candles, soap, body lotions and creams. A local product

CURIOSITY ANTIQUE COLLECTOR’S PARADISE Parma is full of antique shops and art galleries. Most of them can be found in one of the loveliest parts of the old town centre, enclosed by Strada Farini, Via XXII Luglio and Strada Repubblica. If you like rummaging through unusual pieces of antique furniture or precious lithographs covered in dust, you’ll be in paradise. Info: Tel. +39/349/593.1077

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virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it


PARMA FOOD AND WINE Parma is the capital of the Italian “food valley”, the home of good cuisine and excellent wines. Its most famous products are Dop Prosciutto di Parma, Dop Culatello di Zibello (culatello is a special kind of ham), Dop Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Salame di Felino, the renowned Igp Boletus mushrooms (porcini) from the Taro valley, Igt Fortana del Taro wine and Fragno truffles (tartufi). But these are only the most well known products. In and around Parma extremely rare homemade salami can be found, such as prete (literally, “priest”), which is similar to zampone (stuffed pig’s trotter) and is produced in the Colorno area. Other examples are strolghino, a kind of salami, or gola (pig’s throat), which is top-quality pork lard left to mature on a wooden plank until it becomes pink with streaks of lean meat. Thinly sliced gola is eaten on hot bread. The typical products of the lowlands around Parma are culatello and a mild, egg-shaped salami called Spalla di San Secondo, which was much appreciated by Italian poet Gabriele D’Annunzio. There are so many local dishes that it is impossible to give a full list of them here, but typical menus include several shapes of pasta or rice with savoury fillings (anolini, tortelli with a beet or pumpkin filling, rice patties with a pigeon meat filling), meat (stew, boiled meat, and ground horse meat), and several kinds of desserts (which show a distinctive French and Austrian influence).

DOP Culatello di Zibello

DOP Parmigiano Reggiano

IGP Borgotaro boletus mushrooms

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SIGHTSEEING

in and around Parma

CITIES OF ART • Parma: Baptistery, Camera di San Paolo, Casa Natale di Toscanini (Toscanini’s birthplace), Casa della Musica (House of Music), Castello dei Burattini (Puppet Castle), Church and Monastery of San Giovanni, Cathedral, Museo Glauco Lombardi, Palazzo della Pilotta, Santa Maria della Steccata

VERDI COUNTRY • Busseto, Parma

SPA RESORTS • Salsomaggiore, Tabiano, Monticelli, Sant’Andrea

PARKS • Parco Regionale Fluviale dello Stirone, Parco Regionale del Taro, Parco Regionale Boschi di Carrega, Parco Regionale dei 100 Laghi, Oasi LIPU di Torrile (run by the Italian Bird Protection League)

WILDLIFE RESERVES • Riserva Naturale del Monte Prinzera, Riserva Naturale di Parma Morta

CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES • The castles (castello) of Bardi, Compiano, Felino, Fontanellato, Montechiarugolo, Pellegrino Parmense, Roccabianca, Sala Baganza, San Secondo, Soragna, Torrechiara; the Palace (Reggia) of Colorno

GOLF CLUBS • Golf Club La Rocca (18 holes - Sala Baganza), Salsomaggiore Golf & Country Club (18 holes), Golf Club Sant’Elisabetta (6 holes - Parma)

MOTORS • “R. Paletti” racetrack (Varano de’Melegari), Go-kart track (Fraore)

THEATRES • Teatro Regio in Parma, Teatro Magnani in Fidenza, Teatro Verdi in Busseto, Paganini Auditorium in Parma

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) • Strada del Culatello di Zibello, Strada del Fungo Porcino di Borgotaro, Strada del Prosciutto e dei Vini dei Colli di Parma

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Parma, a town of art, music, food and wine Around Parma The palace in Colorno

The castle of Soragna

Roccabianca

CURIOSITY BICIPARMAPO “Biciparmapò” is the name of the 50km-long cycleway running along the bank of the river Po from Polesine Parmense to Mezzani. Along the route there are rent-a-bike stalls, information centres giving out maps and useful hints, and NavigarPo barges offering short cruises on the river. Info: Tel. +39 (0)524/917.08

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What’s the connection between abbeys and monasteries, medieval castles, Art-Nouveau spa facilities, ancient pilgrimage routes, sailing on the river Po, wildlife parks and reserves, and bizarre museums (such as the museums of ham and Parmigiano Reggiano)? That’s an easy one: magic. The area around Parma is pervaded by an almost supernatural atmosphere. The best way to appreciate the spirit of this land is to drive around, maybe with a bit of cycling (there’s a 50-km-long cycle path running along the river Po), or even cruising on a barge. It would be impossible to list here all the attractions of the area around Parma, so we’ll have to make do with the absolute must-sees. First of all, Colorno, 10 km from Parma, boasts a splendid palace with a French air about it, which, together with its distinctive corner towers, earned it the name of “Little Versailles”. This former summer residence of the Dukes of Parma is surrounded by a 15thcentury park that Marie-Louise had redesigned as an English garden; the original 18th-century design has been partly restored. After the luxury of Colorno, Fidenza comes as a balm for the soul. This is the place for faith and prayers: used by the Romans as a rest-stop along the Via Emilia, it became a popular point on the pilgrim route that connected Rome to the rest of Europe during the Middle Ages. The grand Romanesque cathedral contains a carvings depicting all the miracles that had been bestowed upon the local population by several saints. Its facade, decorated by two towers, was worked on by the Parma master, Antelami. A more romantic atmosphere can be found in the many castles around Parma, some of them extraordinarily charming, like those included in the Castle Circuit of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza: Bardi, Colorno again, Compiano, Torrechiara, Montechiarugolo, Felino, Fontanellato, Roccabianca, Sala Baganza, Soragna, San Secondo. Each one has its own story to tell – of lovers, struggles for power, banquets and balls. The impressive 15th-century castle of Fontanellato, in particular, was built by the powerful Sanvitale dynasty for defensive purposes: it has a moat, battlements, and a mighty-looking


tower on each corner. On the ground floor there is one of Parmigianino’s masterpieces, a fresco of the legend of Diana and Actaeon (1523) which in itself is well worth the visit. In Fontanellato, see also the recently restored theatre dating from 1868, a small jewel with two tiers of boxes that seats about 300. Another gem is the Berzieri building in the spa resort of Salsomaggiore Terme. It is a colossal ArtNouveau palace with profuse decorations of gold, flowers, and Oriental patterns, that take the visitor back to the fin-de-siècle days when people came from all over Europe to go to the spa and stroll idly along the tree-lined avenues of this green, cheerful town. The local spa water, by the way, is an excellent cure against a wide range of ailments. Last but not least, two destinations everybody will enjoy: the Parmigiano Reggiano Museum in Soragna (which also has one of the most beautiful castles of the area), and the Parma Ham and Salami Museum (Museo del Prosciutto e dei Salumi di Parma), a few miles from the splendid castle of Torrechiara.

The fortress in Fontanellato

Salsomaggiore Terme

 INFO

Colorno Palace Tel. +39 (0)521/312.545 www.castellidelducato.it Cathedral and Cathedral Museum Tel. +39 (0)524/514.883 www.museoduomofi denza.it IAT Tourist Office, Fidenza Tel. +39 (0)524/833.77 www.comune.fi denza.pr.it Theatre - Fontanellato Tel. +39 (0)521/822.346 www.fontanellato.org Terme Berzieri (spa) - Salsomaggiore Tel. +39 (0)524/578.201 www.termedisalsomaggiore.it Castles of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza Tel. +39 (0)521/829.055 www.castellidelducato.it Museo del Parmigiano Reggiano Tel. +39 (0)524/596.129 www.museidelcibo.it Museo del Prosciutto e dei Salumi Tel. +39 (0)521/351.350 www.museidelcibo.it Strada del Culatello di Zibello Tel. +39 (0)524/939.081 www.stradadelculatello.it Strada del Prosciutto e dei vini dei Colli Tel. +39 (0)521/386.329 www.stradadelprosciutto.it Strada del Fungo Porcino di Borgotaro Tel. +39 (0)521/386.329 www.stradadelfungo.it

The castle of Torrechiara

CURIOSITY ANTIQUE MARKET On the third Sunday of each month except January, the streets and alleyways around the Rocca Sanvitale in Fontanellato become crowded with market stalls selling old prints, vintage clocks and silverware. Info: Tel. +39 (0)521/823.220 www.fontanellato.org

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MUSEUMS IN PARMA

GALLERIA NAZIONALE One of Europe’s greatest museums, this art gallery includes the superb private collections of the Grand Dukes of Parma, with works by Leonardo, Fra Angelico, Correggio, Canova, Tintoretto, Giulio Romano and others. Palazzo della Pilotta Tel. +39 (0)521/233.309 www.artipr.arti.beniculturali.it

MUSEO GLAUCO LOMBARDI Housed in the splendid Palazzo della Riserva and designed by Petitot, the museum contains exhibits from the Duchy of Parma from the mid-eighteenth century to the Unification of Italy. Of particular interest the section devoted to Marie-Louise, featuring several of her dresses, jewels, embroidery sets, portraits. Via Garibaldi, 15 Tel./fax +39 (0)521/233.727 www.museolombardi.it

PINACOTECA STUARD Over 200 works dating from the 14th to the 20th centuries, housed in an old cloister. Paintings, portraits, drawings (among which, one Parmigianino), relics, tapestries and other objects documenting the history of local art, including the archaeological finds excavated from local sites. Borgo Parmigianino, 2 Tel +39 (0)521/231.286 Fax +39 (0)521/218.875 www.comune.parma.it/stuard

MUSEO “ETTORE GUATELLI” Master Ettore Guatelli’s extraordinary and rich collection of objects and tools used by local farmers, housed in picturesque Podere (farm) Bella Foglia. Via nazionale, 130 - Collecchio Tel. +39 (0)521/333.601 www.museoguatelli.it

MUSEO EBRAICO “FAUSTO LEVI” Vestments, relics, documents, Papal bulls – the treasure of local Jewish communities. Also, documents on the Holocaust and the infamous racial laws under fascism. Via Cavour, 43 - Soragna Tel. +39 (0)524/599.399 www.museoebraicosoragna.net

POLO MUSEALE DEL SEMINARIO VESCOVILE DI BEDONIA The imposing Episcopal seminary (seminario vescovile), next door to the Santuario della Madonna di San Marco, hosts the Agostino Casaroli Research Centre and an interesting archive including several documents that belonged to Pope John XXIII’s Secretary of State. Via Raffi , 30 - Bedonia Tel. +39 (0)525/824.420 seminariobedonia@infomont.it www.web.tiscali.it/seminariobedonia

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EVENTS IN PARMA THE OPERA SEASON AT THE TEATRO REGIO The greatest operas and concerts by the most popular conductors, musicians and singers. A night at the Teatro Regio in Parma is a night to remember. WHEN: December to March WHERE: Teatro Regio COST: ticket prices vary I N F O : Te l . + 3 9 ( 0 ) 5 2 1 / 0 3 9 . 3 9 9 , F a x + 3 9 ( 0 ) 5 2 1 / 2 0 6 . 1 5 6 ticket@teatroregioparma.org www.teatroregioparma.org “È GRAND’ESTATE”– A GREAT SUMMER SEASON A season of concerts, classical and modern ballet, theatre shows by great actors, in Piazzale della Pilotta. WHEN: June to July WHERE: Teatro Regio – Renaissance courtyard COST: ticket prices vary INFO: Tel. +39 (0)521/039.399, ticket@teatroregioparma.org www.teatroregioparma.org PARMA JAZZFRONTIERE A truly international festival with top-ranking shows and the cutting edge artists from all over the world. WHEN: November to December. WHERE: Parma – several theatres and other locations COST: ticket prices vary INFO: Tel.+39(0)521/200.688, Fax+39 (0)521/200.688, info@parmafrontiere.it www.parmafrontiere.it BLACK TRUFFLE FAIR – FRAGNO The local truffle fair, with interesting events every week-end. Theme menus in restaurants, conferences, truffle-dog competitions, concerts and of course, a busy market. WHEN: late October, November WHERE: Fragno di Calestano COST: free INFO: Tel. +39 (0)525/520.114 www.tartufonerofragno.it A TASTE OF TIMES GONE BY Costume banquets in charming ancient castles that become the settings of medieval duels and balls accompanied by excellent local products. WHEN: all year WHERE: castles of the circuit of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza COST: prices vary INFO: Associazione “Castelli del Ducato di Parma e Piacenza” Tel. +39 (0)521/829.055 www.castellidelducato.it “NOVEMBER PORC”... SPERIAMO CI SIA LA NEBBIA (A CELEBRATION OF THE FOGGY SEASON) Market stalls, typical street food vendors, music and buskers. WHEN: November WHERE: Zibello COST: free INFO: Strada del Culatello di Zibello Tel. +39 (0)524/939.081 www.stradadelculatello.itwww.stradadelculatello.it

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Ghiara: frescoed dome

Reggio Emilia, home of the Italian flag Reggio is famous for being the place where the Italian tricolour was invented. It was an engineer and public employee, called Ludovico Bolognini, that designed the new white, red and green flag. His project was selected as the symbol of the Cispadane Republic by the delegates of Reggio Emilia, Modena, Ferrara and Bologna in 1797. It was later adopted by the unified Italian Kingdom and then handed on to the Republic. A model of the original flag is kept at the Sala (and Museo) del Tricolore housed in the town hall in Piazza Prampolini. ART AND CULTURE The best way to see Reggio Emilia is to rent a bicycle and pedal idly along its streets, savouring the slow pace of this well-off town, which tops all Italian lists in terms of income levels and quality of life. Renowned for having the best kindergartens in the world, Reggio Emilia (Roman Regium Lepidi) is also a beautiful old town full of art and history. The main sight is the evocative 17th-century Basilica della Ghiara, at the heart of the old town centre. It is a sumptuously baroque church, richly decorated with frescoes by some of the best painters of its time (including a Crucifixion by Guercino). Legend has it that in 1596 a young deaf and dumb boy regained his voice and sense of hearing after looking at an icon of the Virgin Mary painted on a low wall. The Basilica was built on the spot where the miracle had taken place, which had already become a destination for masses of pilgrims. For a relaxing walk, choose the ancient Via Emilia, that cuts neatly through the town and out onto the plain. In town, the Via Emilia is almost entirely lined with porticoes, with a number of nice shops and old workshops, and is usually swarming with people chatting and strolling around. It is easy to 34

Baptistery: interior

Cathedral


REGGIO EMILIA see that Reggio Emilia is a lively and friendly place, the perfect place to unwind a bit and feel at home. Follow the Via Emilia to Piazza Prampolini (aka Piazza Grande), dominated by the 15th-century town hall (Palazzo del Comune) and the cathedral, which was originally built in the 9th century but reconstructed several times. Several of its chapels contain precious canvases, such as the Assumption of the Virgin Mary with Saints Peter and Jerome (1626) by Francesco Barbieri, known as Guercino; the Visitation by Mary to Saint Elizabeth (1604) by Giuseppe Cesari known as Cavalier d’Arpino; and the marble tomb of Valerio Malaguzzi, by the 16thcentury sculptor and goldsmith Bartolomeo Spani from Reggio. In Piazza Grande, to the right of the cathedral, an arch marks the half-hidden passage called the Broletto. It is a covered alleyway in a vaguely Oriental style, crammed with tiny shops and usually quite busy since it links Piazza Grande with the lively and picturesque Piazza San Prospero, or Piazza Piccola. Piazza San Prospero comes alive on market days (Tuesday and Friday), its stalls bustling in the shadow of the imposing Basilica of San Prospero. The 18th-century facade of the church contrasts sharply with the bell tower next to it (1536-70), an original octagonal campanile (the project was approved by Giulio Romano) and an outstanding example of Renaissance architecture in Reggio. Another must-see is the Teatro Municipale “Romolo Valli”, opened in 1857.

 INFO Galleria Parmeggiani

CURIOSITY A GLIMPSE OF ANCIENT ROME At the crossroads of Via Emilia San Pietro and Via Roma a portion of street is covered over in glass, to reveal large stone blocks lying some 2 metres below. These stones are fragments of the Roman Via Emilia and mark the very spot where the Roman settlement of Forum Lepidi was founded – the junction between the two main streets, the cardus and the decumanus maximus. The settlement then grew in to a wealthy town of entrepreneurs, tradesmen and talented craftsmen.

IAT Tourist office, Reggio Emilia Tel. +39 (0)522/451.152 www.municipio.re.it/turismo www.girareggio.it Basilica of Beata Vergine della Ghiara Tel. +39 (0)522/439.707 www.municipio.re.turismo Basilica of San Prospero Tel. 0522/434.667 www.municipio.re.it/turismo Duomo (Cathedral) Tel. +39 (0)522/433.783 www.municipio.re.it/turismo Sala del Tricolore Tel. +39 (0)522/456.111 www.tricolore.it Teatro Municipale Romolo Valli Tel. +39 (0)522/458.811 www.iteatri.re.it

35


HANDICRAFTS The typical handicrafts found in and around Reggio, called Ars Canusina, are reproductions of the geometrical Romanesque patterns found in the monuments dating back to the glory days of countess Matilda of Canossa (1046-1115). These handicrafts can be of different materials: stone, wood, leather, metal, pottery, or linen. Today Ars Canusina is renowned and appreciated; the best craftsmen’s and craftswomen’s work is certified by a special seal of quality. The abundance of handicraft shops in town is partly due to the presence of several craft unions, that group together the small shops and businesses located in the alleyways of the old town centre and around the main squares. Countess Matilda of Canossa

Ars Canusina ceramic plate

CURIOSITY PIAZZA FONTANESI Today Piazza Fontanesi is a vast treelined square with a number of antique shops. In the past, however, it was the proto-industrial area of Reggio: silk mills and leather tanneries were concentrated here, around the canal called the Guazzatoio. The restoration work completed during the 1980s has made it possible to establish the positions and workings of the buildings that once filled this area.

36

virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it


REGGIO EMILIA FOOD AND WINE Reggio Emilia is home to several pearls of Italian cuisine: from DOP Parmigiano Reggiano to Dop traditional balsamic vinegar from Reggio Emilia, from DOC wines like famous Lambrusco to the local salami, from erbazzone (a vegetable pie with a beet and spinach filling) to gnocco fritto (fried dough served steaming hot with salame, prosciutto, coppa...) down to liqueurs made from fruit or herbs steeped in alcohol, like nocino, a popular walnut liqueur. Starting with, HRM Parmigiano Reggiano, the world-famous king of cheeses, probably invented by Benedectine monks. 1 kg of Parmigiano is the product of 16 kg of milk – but it only takes 40 minutes to digest 100 g of this cheese, whereas the same quantity of beef would be digested in about 3 1⁄2 hours. The other main speciality is balsamic vinegar, but be careful here - traditional balsamic vinegar (aceto balsamico tradizionale) is very different from the more ordinary aceto balsamico. The traditional product is aged for 12 years at the very least and up to as many as 50 years, like the best wines, whereas its more commercial cousin matures in a single month. This is what makes traditional balsamic vinegar so thick and almost sweet, a precious essence to be savoured by the drop on every kind of food, including fruit or ice-cream. It is, however, virtually impossible to find real aceto balsamico tradizionale in supermarkets: better plan a visit to a vinegar cellar (acetaia) along one of the two local Food and wine trails.

Parmiggiano Reggiano

Local specialities

Vinegar cellar

37


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38


SIGHTSEEING

in and around Reggio Emilia

CITIES OF ART • Reggio Emilia: Basilica Beata Vergine della Ghiara, Cathedral, Romanesque Baptistery, Basilica of San Prospero

SPA RESORTS • Terme di Cervarezza

PARKS • Parco Regionale del Gigante (a part of the Parco Nazionale dell’Appennino Tosco Emiliano), Parco di Roncolo, Pinetina di Vezzano

WILDLIFE RESERVES • Riserva Naturale Orientata Casse di Espansione del Fiume Secchia (Rubiera), Riserva Naturale Campotrera (Canossa), Fontanili di Valle Re (Campegine)

CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES • Circuit of Matilda’s Castles and the Castles of the Courts around Reggio

GOLF CLUBS • Golf Club Matilda di Canossa (18 holes - S. Bartolomeo), San Valentino Golf Club (9 holes - Castellarano), Golf Club Santo Stefano (6 holes –Campagnola Emilia)

MOTORS • Museo dell’Automobile in San Martino in Rio

THEATRES • Reggio Emilia: Teatro Municipale Romolo Valli, Teatro Ariosto, Teatro “Cesare Zavattini”, Teatro “San Prospero”

WINE-PRODUCING TOWNS • Scandiano

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) • Strada dei Vini e dei sapori delle Colline di Scandiano e Canossa (Food and wine trail of the hills around Scandiano and Canossa), Strada dei Vini e dei sapori delle Corti Reggiane (Food and wine trail of the courts around Reggio)

39


Reggio Emilia, home of the Italian flag Around Reggio Gualtieri

Correggio

Scandiano

CURIOSITY RIVER CRUISES FROM BORETTO A wide range of cruises on motor boats, houseboats or jet skis departing from the new jetty, for a different perspective on some of the most beautiful Italian landscapes and cities of art. You can also find restaurants, recreation areas for children, Latin-American dance. Info: Tel. +39 (0)522.963.015, +39 335.626.8300, Fax. +39 (0)522.963.128

40

“...the river, the valley, the people... And you, readers, trust an old man: do not wait until old age to get to know those horizontal spaces, that seem so unattainable and yet are so easy to reach, by all means...” These words are by Cesare Zavattini, a popular writer and poet from Reggio Emilia, who has always been in love with his homeland. His suggestion is well worth taking, as the plains around Reggio will certainly find a place in your heart, be it on a short barge cruise on the river Po, a hike up a hill to one of the medieval castles that belonged to Countess Matilda of Canossa or a sensually satisfying tour of one of the two local Food and wine trails (Strade dei Vini e dei Sapori). The river harbour of Boretto sul Po, with the round, pink dome of San Marco overlooking the jetty, looks like it could be the starting point of fairytale cruises. A variety of boats are moored along the quay: houseboats laden with bicycles, cabin cruisers, motor ships used for river cruises, that glide along the canals bordered with reeds to Mantova, Ferrara and Venice. Other destinations include old monasteries and abbeys, such as San Benedetto Po, or nature reserves that are the birdwatcher’s paradises. The Great River (the Po is Italy’s longest and largest inland waterway) is one of the two main landmarks of the area around Reggio, the other being the Apennines. The region between the Via Emilia and the mountains, originally a part of Matilda of Canossa’s county, includes an interesting wildlife park, the Parco del Gigante (now a part of the Parco Nazionale dell’Appennino Tosco-Emiliano). Boretto isn’t only a river harbour, but also a charming little town. Sights include the Basilica of San Marco and the council chamber (sala consiliare) in the Town Hall, with Art-Nouveau frescoes by Marcello Nizzoli (1914). Gualtieri, a few miles downstream, has lovely cobbled streets winding around the splendidly porticoed and rather large Piazza Bentivoglio, dominated by Palazzo Bentivoglio. Another small art town on the Great River is Guastalla, once a part of the lands of the Gonzaga dynasty, where famous artists and poets


(such as Guercino and Tasso) lived for a period of their lives.The Renaissance left its mark on the region around Reggio. Take an afternoon off to stroll under the porticoes of Corso Mazzini in Correggio and visit the Palazzo dei Principi, once the home of the Correggio dynasty of princes, the rivals of the Este and Visconti families. Other must-sees are the Renaissance Rocca Boiardo in Scandiano (the second largest town in the area), its design inspired by the castle in Ferrara; the fortified medieval village of Castellarano (still perfectly preserved and very picturesque); or, going up towards the Apennines, the castles of the county that once belonged to Matilda of Canossa. Not to mention the small yet significant monuments found all over the territory, such as the Tempietto del Petrarca in Selvapiana di Canossa, a small tower built in 1839 as a memorial to poet Francesco Petrarca, who stayed here in 1343; or the charming medieval parish church (Pieve Matildica) in Toano, which is still preserved as it was in Matilda’s times, but is much older than that and was first mentioned in a document signed by emperor Otto II on the 14th of October, AD 980.

Castellarano

The castle of Rossena and Rossanella

 INFO

Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori delle Corti Reggiane Tel. +39 (0)522/508.919, Fax +39 (0)522/508.918 corti.reggiane@re.camcom.it, www.stradavinicortireggiane.it Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori delle Colline di Scandiano e Canossa Tel. +39 (0)522/454.666, Fax +39 (0)522/496.786 info@stradaviniesapori.re.it, www.stradaviniesapori.re.it The parish church in Toano

CURIOSITY BUDDHIST CENTRE The Tibet House (Casa del Tibet) in Votigno di Canossa is an international research centre whose aim is to preserve and popularise the thousandyear-old Tibetan culture, and also to foster dialogue among different cultures. The Tibet House has a museum, open every Sunday, and offers B&B accommodation. Info: Tel. +39 (0)522/877.177 stedal@tin.it www.etnoweb.com/casadeltibet

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MUSEUMS IN REGGIO EMILIA

MUSEO DEL TRICOLORE Documents and relics relating to the national flag, devised in Reggio Emilia on the 7th of January, 1797, including all the changes it underwent until the end of the Napoleonic era. Also, multimedia tools to plunge even deeper in the history of the Italian tricolour. Piazza Prampolini, 1 Tel. +39 (0)522/456.477 www.tricolore.it

GALLERIA PARMEGGIANI The gallery houses Luigi Parmeggiani’s art collection, including European weapons and cutlery, jewellery and gold objects, enamelled pieces, traditional European costumes from the 17th to the 19th century, stone and painted wood sculptures, Italian, Spanish and Flemish paintings and other works of art. Corso Cairoli, 2 Tel. +39 (0)522/451.054 www.girareggio.it MUSEI CIVICI Several interesting collections, sporting the Collezione Spallanzani, an 18thcentury private museum of zoology, anatomy, ethnography and herb collections. Other sections include the Gabinetto di antichità e patrie (cabinet of antiquities), the Museo di archeologia e paleontologia “Chierici” (archaeology and palaeontology), the Galleria dei Marmi (ancient marbles), the Pinacoteca Fontanesi (paintings), the Museo Mazzacurati and the Museo di arte industriale (industrial art). Via Spallanzani, 1 Tel. +39 (0)522/456.477 http://musei.comune.re.it/ MUSEO CIVICO “IL CORREGGIO” Situated in the splendid Renaissance Palazzo dei Principi, the museum includes 12 16th-century Flemish tapestries, a Christ’s Head by Mantegna and two works by Correggio. Corso Cavour, 7 - Correggio Tel. +39 (0)522/693.296, Fax. +39(0)522/641.105 g.fabbrici@comune.correggio.re.it www.museo.comune.correggio.re.it

MUSEO NAZIONALE DI ARTI NAÏVES “CESARE ZAVATTINI” A gallery of the winners of the Cesare Zavattini award for naive artists (Premio Nazionale delle Arti Naïves), from 1967 to the present. In Luzzara. Via Villa Superiore, 29 - Luzzara Tel. +39 (0)522/977.283, Fax +39 (0)522/224.830 artenaif@tin.it www.naives.it

MUSEO DELL’AGRICOLTURA E DEL MONDO RURALE This folk museum, in the walls of the medieval fortress of San Martino in Rio, presents an opportunity to know more about the traditions and popular culture of the rural areas around Reggio. Corso Umberto I, 22 - San Martino in Rio Tel. +39 (0)522/636.726, Fax. +39 (0)522/695.986 www.biblioteca.sanmartinoinrio.re.it

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EVENTS IN REGGIO EMILIA NEW YEAR’S INTERNATIONAL CHESS MASTER TOURNAMENT The most important chess tournament in Italy. Only 10 among the best chess players of the world are selected for participation. WHEN: late December to the 6th of January. WHERE: Reggio Emilia - Hotel Astoria Mercure COST: free INFO: Tel. +39 (0)522/451.152 www.municipio.re.it/turismo

REGGIO EMILIA “CITTÀ DEL TRICOLORE” MARATHON The world’s best runners take part in this classic marathon which starts from the old town centre and ventures into the lovely countryside surrounding Reggio. WHEN: mid-December WHERE: Reggio Emilia COST: free INFO: UISP Lega Atletica Leggera Tel. +39 (0)522/267.211

ORO, INCENSO E ANTICO (GOLD, INCENSE AND ANTIQUES) A fair attracting antique dealers from all over Europe: furniture, antique objects, clocks, majolica ware, jewellery in Art-Nouveau and Art Deco style. WHEN: October and November WHERE: Exhibition centre (Fiera) in Reggio Emilia COST: approx. 8,00 euro INFO: Eventi Culturali Tel. +39 (0)522/541.714, Fax +39 (0)522/541.714

INTERNATIONAL CANOE COMPETITION ON THE RIVER ENZA In Italy, river canoeing may have only recently become a trendy sport, but canoe competitions on the river Enza are a much older tradition, established over 30 years ago. One of the most appreciated spring events around Reggio. WHEN: April WHERE: Vetto d’Enza COST: free INFO: Daniele Ruffini/Davide Bergonzoni Tel. +39 (0)522/815.271 - 815.536 CONFUSION& FESTIVAL The Confusion& Festival, organised by Giovanni Lindo Ferretti, brings the Apennines around Reggio onto the global scene. WHEN: late June to August WHERE: Apennines around Reggio COST: some of the shows have an admission charge INFO: IAT Castelnovo Monti Tel. +39 (0)522/810.430

LOST PLANTS AND ANIMALS (PIANTE E ANIMALI PERDUTI) Plant and animal varieties cultivated and bred centuries or decades ago but now nearly extinct. One of the most interesting Italian exhibitions devoted to biodiversity. WHEN: last week-end of September WHERE: Guastalla COST: free INFO: IAT Guastalla Tel. +39 (0)522/219.812

43


Cathedral, detail

Modena, a town rich in culture, food, wine and prestige car-makers Modena is so fascinating that it even charmed Unesco into putting three of its extraordinary beauties – the Cathedral, the Ghirlandina tower and Piazza Grande onto the World Heritage List in 1997. But Modena is not only a town of great art and culture. It is also universally known for its excellent food and wine, with stars such as traditional balsamic vinegar, Lambrusco wine, and typical local salami. And of course, it is world-famous for its car-making factories. Each year Ferrari and Maserati are visited by millions of F1 fans coming from all over the planet, as far as Japan. ART AND CULTURE “How did I do it? I think God himself inspired me”. This is how Lanfranc, the architect who built the Cathedral, put it when asked how he got the idea for his masterpiece. Well, at least this is how legend has it. Whatever the real source of inspiration, the church is absolutely magnificent, one of the finest outcomes of the Romanesque period in Europe. It is entirely covered in white marble and adorned with a seemingly endless succession of columns, capitals, reliefs, statues of prophets, and mythical beasts – the work of another genius of those times, the sculptor Wiligelmus. Ever since the foundation stone was laid in 1099, the cathedral has attracted thousands of visitors and tourists. The entrance to the Musei del Duomo, the Archivio Capitolare (capitular archives) and the Museo Lapidario (with stone fragments from the Cathedral) is on the north side of the church, in Via Lanfranco. The distinctively warm atmosphere that pervades every corner of Modena is palpable in the ancient cobbled Piazza Grande. During the Middle Ages, when Modena was a free city, the Piazza was used 44

Portico San Carlo

Cathedral


MODENA for public addresses: speakers used to stand on the massive stone block that can still be seen today, called pietra ringadora after the Italian verb arringare, to harangue. Nowadays, Piazza Grande comes alive with an incredible number of people every year on the 31st of January (the saint’s day of the local patron, St Geminianus) and on the Thursday before Lent, the day dedicated to Sandrone, the stock character of Modena, who every year harangues the public from the town hall balcony. The symbol of the town, however, is the 87-metre tall Ghirlandina tower, so called after the slender, elegant marble banisters that weave like garlands (ghirlande) around its Gothic spire. Twists and curves, however, seem to be a constant in Modena: the alleyways of the tight, concentric medieval centre meander tortuously and it’s easy to lose one’s sense of direction. This is largely because during the Middle Ages Modena was criss-crossed by natural canals, and buildings and alleyways had to follow their irregular courses. However disorientating, these streets have a charm of their own: take for instance Corso Canalgrande, where, at number 85, you will find the Teatro Comunale planned by architect Francesco Vandelli in 1838 and opened in 1841. Modena also has another 19th-century theatre, the Storchi, still bearing the original double facade.

 INFO

Palazzo Ducale

CURIOSITY A SPLENDID CAPITAL In 1598, Modena became the capital of the Este Duchy. The town put on her evening dress: the Palazzo Ducale was built soon after, with its grand halls, courtyards, staircases that dazzle visitors with their sheer beauty. Guided tours available on request. Info: Modenatur Tel. +39 (0)59/220.022 motur@modenatur.net

IAT Tourist office, Modena Tel. +39 (0)59/203.2660 Cathedral (duomo) Tel. +39 (0)59/216.078 info@duomodimodena.it www.duomodimodena.it Musei del Duomo TTel. +39 (0)59/439.6969 duomodimodena@virgilio.it www.duomodimodena.it Teatro Comunale Tel. +39 (0)59/206.993 teatro.comunale@cpmune.modena.it www.teatrocomunalemodena.it Teatro Storchi Tel. +39 (0)59/206.993 biglietteria@emiliaromagnateatro.com www.emiliaromagnateatro.com

45


HANDICRAFTS

Galleria Ferrari

 INFO

Consorzio Tutela Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena Tel. +39 (0)59/316.3519 www.balsamicotradizionale.com Consorzio Produttori Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena Tel. +39 (0)59/395.633 www.balsamico.it Consorzio Lambrusco di Modena, Consorzio Marchio Storico dei Lambruschi Modenesi, Consorzio Tutela Lambrusco di Modena Tel. +39 (0)59/235.005 www.lambrusco.net www.tutelalambrusco.it Consorzio del Prosciutto di Modena Tel. +39 (0)59/343.464 www.consorzioprosciuttomodena.it Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano Tel. +39 (0)59/315.915 www.parmigiano-reggiano.it Consorzio della Pera di Modena Tel. +39 (0)59/384011 confcooperative. modena@confcooperative.it

CURIOSITY

Even if the local industries are at the cutting edge of technology, especially in the automotive sector (to give just one name: Ferrari), the craftspeople of Modena have not lost their touch and still produce fine handicrafts following traditional methods, sometimes painstakingly slow, and always using top-quality materials. In and around Modena there are about 400 traditional workshops; among them, lute-maker’s shops making violins and other musical instruments, or cooper’s shops producing the casks and kegs where balsamic vinegar is aged – precision work, as each kind of wood and each cask size lends a different aroma to the vinegar. Another leading local craft is jewellery, and unique and precious products can be seen in the windows of the several goldsmith’s shops in the old town centre. Catering to the up-market clientele, Modena is the right place to find restorers of old paintings, books, woodwork, linen, leather and marble objects. Not to mention frame-makers, book binders, upholsterers, potters, carpenters, photographers and menders of woven straw seats. That the people of Modena love beautiful antiques and collectables is clear from the number and quality of antique fairs held here every year. After all, Modena has a thousand year tradition of pottery and ceramics, as you will notice from the splendour of local monuments. The local textile and clothing industries, too, have pre-industrial roots.

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ANTIQUE FAIR Silver sugar bowls, old pictures, clocks dating from the 1950s and many other unique pieces. A stroll among the stalls of the antique market in the Parco Novi Sad is a visual treat. The fair is usually held on the fourth Saturday and Sunday of each month except July and August. Info: www.comune.modena.it/~intereco/ Antiquaria/Fieranti.htm

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Virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it


MODENA FOOD AND WINE It’s dark and gleaming, syrupy and thick, uniquely sweet over an unmistakeably sour undertone. It’s sold in tiny, extremely expensive bottles, after aging for up to 50 years. Did you guess? It’s DOP Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, the town’s most exclusive speciality. A visit to a vinegar-making farmhouse (acetaia), including an opportunity to sample the product, can be something of an experience. Purists may enjoy balsamic vinegar as such (one spoonful only!), but it is the perfect match for finely slivered Parmigiano Reggiano, risotto and other dishes, including fruit and ice-cream (ask for gelato all’aceto balsamico in the ice-cream shops of the town centre). Other musts are the local salami: prosciutto (cured ham), zampone (pig’s trotters, boned and filled with minced meat) and cotechino (same as zampone, but stuffed inside an animal bladder). There are a number of farms and cottages selling handmade salami certified by special seals of quality, that are perfect with the typical local breads, such as tigelle (sort of small pitta breads) and gnocco fritto (fried bread dough). The king of cheeses, of course, is DOP Parmigiano Reggiano. Local fruit and vegetables, too, are noteworthy: first of all, the Modena pear variety and Vignola cherries, highly appreciated in Italy. Chestnuts and truffles abound on the Modenese Apennines. And remember the appropriate wine: make sure it’s certified DOC, like Lambrusco Grasparossa from Castelvetro and Sorbara, or Salamino Santacroce.

Vignola cherries

DOP Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena

Local specialitiies

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SIGHTSEEING

in and around Modena

CITIES OF ART • Modena: Cathedral, Galleria Estense, Ghirlandina, Palazzo Ducale, Palazzo dei Musei, Piazza Grande • Carpi• Campogalliano• Castelfranco Castelvetro• Fanano• Finale Emilia • Fiorano • Fiumalbo • Formigine • Fassinoro • Maranello • Montefiorino • Nonantola • Pavullo • San Felice Sassuolo • Sestola • Spilamberto • Vignola

SPA RESORTS • Terme della Salvarola

PARKS • Parco Regionale del Frignano, Parco Regionale dei Sassi di Roccamalatina

WILDLIFE RESERVES • Riserva Naturale Regionale delle Salse di Nirano, Riserva Naturale Orientata Casse di Espansione del Fiume Secchia, Riserva Naturale Orientata di Sassoguidano, Casse di espansione del fiume panaro, Oasi delle Valli di Mortizzuolo, Oasi Faunistica Colombarone, Oasi Le Meleghine CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES • Circuit of the “Este Lands” (Terre Estensi): the fortresses of Vignola, Montefiorino, Montese, San Felice sul Panaro; the castles of Sestola, Formigine, Panzano, Roccapelago (Pievepelago), Spezzano (Fiorano), Montecuccolo (Pavullo nel Frignano); Castello delle Rocche (Finale Emilia); Palazzo dei Pio (Carpi)

GOLF CLUBS • Modena Golf & Country Club (18 holes - Colombaro di Formigine), Golf Club Giardino Carpi (practice course)

MOTORS • Modena: Galleria Ferrari (Maranello), Righini private collection of vintage cars (Castelfranco Emilia), Umberto Panini museum of vintage cars and motorbikes, Stanguellini historical car museum (Modena). The region around Modena is also home to some of the world’s leading motor industries: Ferrari S.p.a. (Maranello), Maserati S.p.a., De Tomaso S.p.a. (Modena), Pagani (San Cesario), Circuito (Fiorano Modenese)

THEATRES • Teatro Comunale di Modena, Teatro Comunale di Carpi

WINE-PRODUCING TOWNS • Sorbara, Carpi, Castelvetro di Modena, Savignano

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) • Food and Wine Trail through Towns, Castles and Cherry Orchards (Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori “Città Castelli Ciliegi”), Food and Wine Trail of the Plain around Modena (Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori della Pianura Modenese, Terre Piane)

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Modena, a town rich in culture, food, wine and prestige car-makers Around Modena The abbey in Nonantola

The castle of Vignola

Sassuolo

CURIOSITY LAND OF MOTORS 70-80% of the world’s motor industries is concentrated in Emilia Romagna. Modena and its surroundings hold a significant proportion of that percentage, with Ferrari (in Maranello), Maserati and Detomaso (in Modena), the Fiorano F1 racetrack and a number of museums and private collections of prestige cars and motorbikes. Info: Motorvalley Tel. +39 (0)59/218.264

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No doubt, the Modenese are some of the most sociable people in Italy and definitely know how to enjoy life – groups of cyclists chatting and pedalling idly on the cycle paths leading out of town and into the countryside are a common view during the springtime. And the area around Modena is simply overflowing with art and monuments: with the right information and a detailed map, a day out in the country can be transformed into a treasure hunt. Must-sees include the 8th-century Benedictine abbey of San Silvestro in the centre of Nonantola, once famous for the manuscripts illuminated by the local monks. The facade is decorated with sculptures by Wiligelmus and his disciples, and its museum (Museo benedettino) holds unique pieces, such as parchments and objects used by Charlemagne, Matilda of Canossa, Otto I, Frederick I Barbarossa. Speaking of medieval relics (and probably you won’t find this in any other tourist guide), some portions of the country around Nonantola are still subject to one of the few forms of collective property still legally valid in Italy, the “Emilian participations” (partecipanze emiliane). They are large plots of land divided into parcels, jointly owned by a group of families; lots are periodically drawn among the male heirs of all the families to establish which of them will become the owners of the parcels. In Nonantola, the men eligible for the draw are 3,000 over a total population of 12,000. The glorious past of the area around Modena has left a number of fortresses and castles in its wake. One of the finest local manors is the medieval Rocca di Vignola or Dei Contrari, originally built for defensive purposes, but later turned into an aristocratic palace by the Contrari nobles, allies of the Este dynasty. It is an incredibly wellpreserved castle with watchtowers, drawbridges, a moat and frescoed rooms. A few miles further up the Apennines, there is an extraordinary complex of buildings dating from the Early Middle Ages and characterised by a unique fusion of Lombard, Byzantine and French influences: the Castle of Montecuccolo and the village and parish church


(pieve) of Renno. In Sassuolo, the main sight is the baroque Palazzo Ducale, once the summer residence of Francesco I d’Este. It contains over 28 luxuriously decorated rooms, among which the Duke’s and Duchess’s apartments, the Guards’ hall, the Stucco apartment, some of them decorated by Bartolomeo Avanzini and Jean Boulanger. Another interesting baroque building is Villa Sorra on the Via Romea Nonantolana, surrounded by a vast 18th-century park with a small lake, stables, an orange grove and an icehouse. Museums abound in the towns around Modena.The top of the crop are the legendary Galleria Ferrari in Maranello, exhibiting vintage and contemporary examples of the famous red cars, and the Deportation museum (Museo del deportato) in Carpi, where the towered Castello del Pio is also worth seeing. Of course, there is also a museum dedicated to traditional balsamic vinegar: it’s in Spilamberto, whose castle was a lookout on the Panaro valley.

Villa Sorra

Carpi

 INFO

Nonantola Tel. +39 (0)59/896.555, Fax +39 (0)59/896.556 www.comune.nonantola.mo.it Vignola Tel. +39 (0)59/764.365, Fax +39 (0)59/764.311 www.fondazionecrv.it Sassuolo Tel. +39 (0)536/807.371, Fax +39 (0)536/805.527 Carpi Tel. +39 (0)59/649.213 – 4, Fax +39 (0)59/649.240 Fortress of Vignola Tel. +39 (0)59/ 775.246 www.fondazionecrv.it Castle of Montecuccolo Tel. +39 (0)536/324.290 www.comune.pavullo-nel-frignano.mo.it Villa Sorra Tel. +39 (0)59/896.625 – 959.216 www.villasorra.it Galleria Ferrari Tel. +39 (0)536/949.713, Fax +39 (0)536/949.714 www.galleria.ferrari.com www.museimodenesi.it Museo Monumento al Deportato (deportation memorial museum) Tel. +39 (0)59/688.272 www.fondazionefossoli.org Museo dell’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale (museum of traditional balsamic vinegar) Tel +39 (0)59/781.614 www.museimodenesi.it

Spilamberto

CURIOSITY LOCAL SPECIALITIES One of the most highly appreciated tours around Modena touches on vinegarproducing firms (acetaie), farmhouses making cheese, wine producers and fruit orchards. Here is a useful contact: Info: Modenatur Tel. +39 (0)59/220.022 motur@modenatur.net

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MUSEUMS IN MODENA

GALLERIA ESTENSE One of the most important Italian art collections, the Galleria Estense bears witness to the artistic and archaeological interests of the Este family. Among its exhibits are a bust of Francesco I d’Este by Bernini, a portrait of the same man by Velazquez, a Madonna and child by Correggio, a triptych by El Greco, and a Crucifix by Guido Reni. P.zza S. Agostino, 337 c/o Palazzo dei Musei Tel. +39 (0)59/439.5711 galleria.estense@interbusiness.it www.galleriaestense.it www.museimodenesi.it MUSEI CIVICI – ARCHAEOLOGICAL, ETHNOLOGICAL AND ART MUSEUMS The civic museums contain an archaeological section with prehistoric relics (among which the Neolithic finds from the sites of Fiorano and Pescale), while the art section includes a collection of works by Modenese artists spanning from the Middle Ages to the modern era. Other exhibits include musical instruments, objects in painted and printed leather, decorations on paper, weapons, and ceramics. Viale Vittorio Veneto, 5 c/o Palazzo dei Musei Tel. +39 (0)59/203.3101 www.comune.modena.it/museoarcheologico www.comune.modena.it/museoarte BIBLIOTECA ESTENSE The jewel of the Este library is one of the finest illuminated manuscripts in the world, the Bible of Borso d’Este, but other inestimable treasures are two ancient maps, the Carta Catalana, the missals of Borso d’Este and Anna Sforza, and the De Sphaera. P.zza S. Agostino, 337 c/o Palazzo dei Musei Tel. +39 (0)59/222.248 biblio.estense@cedoc.mo.it http://palazzodeimusei.comune.modena.it/palazzodeimusei ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK AND OPEN AIR MUSEUM OF MONTALE’S “TERRAMARA” This park includes the reconstruction of a Bronze Age village, labs and workshops where students and schoolchildren can learn more about archaeology and what it’s like to work at an archaeological site. Via Vandelli, 552 Nuova Estense Montale Rangone Tel. +39 (0)59/532.020, Fax +39 (0)59/532.020 info@parcomontale.it www.parcomontale.it www.museimodenesi.it MUSEO DELLA BILANCIA (MUSEUM OF SCALES) The museum includes 823 weighing instruments and over 10,200 documents showing the evolution of scales from ancient times to our days. There are also laboratories and multimedia stations to learn more about precision instruments. Via Garibaldi, 34a - Campogalliano Tel. +39 (0)59/527.133, Fax +39 (0)59/527.084 Museo.bilancia@cedoc.mo.it www.comune.campogalliano.mo.it/museo www.museimodenesi.it MUSEO DELLA REPUBBLICA PARTIGIANA (MUSEUM OF THE PARTISAN REPUBLIC) Not everybody knows that during WWII some of the local partisans fighting for the liberation of Italy proclaimed the town of Montefiorino a republican state. This museum tells the story of the Resistance and the republic of Montefiorino until the end of the war, through documents and everyday events. Via Rocca, 1 - Montefiorino Tel. +39 (0)59/219.442, +39 (0)59/242.377, Fax +39 (0)59/214.899 istitutostorico@tin.it www.istitutostorico.mo.it

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EVENTS IN MODENA GREAT CULINARY EVENTS Guided tours, samplings, round tables, cookery lessons, conferences, theme menus in restaurants, stage shows and gala dinners, all of them based on HRM the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena and other local products. WHEN: spring/autumn WHERE: several towns around Modena COST: some events are free INFO: local information points and tourist offices TERRA DI MOTORI (LAND OF MOTORS) Longer opening hours for vintage car and motorbike private collections, races, conventions, elegance parades. Modena, in cooperation with the leading car-making industries, pays homage to the world of motors. An event attracting motor show fans from all over Italy. WHEN: April and May WHERE: streets and squares of the old town centre, and some towns around Modena COST: some events are free INFO: Modenatur Tel. +39 (0)59/220.022 www.modenatur.net BRASS BAND INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL In the charming Palazzo Ducale and in the streets and squares of the old town centre, brass bands from all over the world perform popular themes, parades. WHEN: first half of July WHERE: streets and squares of the old town centre, and some towns around Modena COST: admission charge INFO: Teatro Comunale Tel. +39 (0)59/200.020 SAPORI E MOTORI (SLOW FOOD, FAST CARS) A series of events for motor fans: a Concorse D’Elegance in Salvarola Terme, the Millemiglia vintage car race, a vintage car and motorbike fair, the Modena 100 ore Classic race, a high-tech exhibition and a sports car show. WHEN: spring and summer WHERE: Castelfranco E., Modena and Salvarola Terme COST: some events are free INFO: Teatro Comunale Tel. +39 (0)59/200.020

JAZZ IN ‘IT FESTIVAL A jamming festival in the old and charming Piazza dei Contrari, where Italy’s and the world’s most promising young jazz musicians come together to experiment with new musical languages and fuse styles. WHEN: June WHERE: Vignola – Rocca and streets of the old town centre COST: some of the concerts are free INFO: Culture Service of the Municipality of Vignola Tel. +39(0)59/777.707 www.comune.vignola.mo.it

FESTIVAL DELLA FILOSOFIA Philosophy lectures, public discussions, readings, stage shows, exhibitions, art installations, theme dinners. WHEN: September WHERE: Modena, Carpi and Sassuolo COST: some of theevents are free INFO: Tel. +39 (0)59/421.210 www.festivalfilosofia.it

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Bologna, the City of Culture

Pinacoteca Nazionale

There is a saying that the Bolognese do not realize how beautiful their city is. Actually, they are well aware of it! Bologna is the result of a magical and alchemic mixture of art and culture. It has 12 city museums, 1 national museum, 4 church museums, 4 private-owned museums, 16 University museums and an invaluable Jewish museum. But it is also a lively and cheerful place, brought alive by the thousands of university students who have been flocking to the Alma Mater Studiorum – the oldest University in the world – every year since 1088 AD, the year of its establishment. ART AND CULTURE When nights get warmer and the stars come out, Piazza Maggiore puts on its summer dress: the steps in front of the Basilica of San Petronio become crowded with young people chatting into the night. The café on the ground floor of the Palazzo del Podestà gets its tables out so customers can sip coffee in the open air while listening to the sound of water gurgling in the 16th-century Fontana del Nettuno (whose nudes caused quite a scandal when it was unveiled). Piazza Maggiore is the right place to start exploring the heart of Bologna. Here you will find San Petronio, one of the largest Catholic churches in the world. A brass sundial, designed by the astronomer Gian Domenico Cassini in 1665, stretches along its pink marble floor. On the same square you will find the Palazzo d’Accursio, now the Town Hall, which looks rather like a fortified citadel with towers and crenellated walls. The statue of Pope Gregory XIII blesses passers-by from its front wall. The Palazzo d’Accursio houses several hidden treasures. Walk through its inner courtyard to the grand staircase; on the first floor you will find the 54

Fontana del Nettuno

Piazza Maggiore


BOLOGNA Sala Ercole and the Sala Rossa, two frescoed halls overlooking Piazza Maggiore. On the second floor are the Grand Hall, a chapel (Cappella Farnese), the city art collections and the Museo Morandi named after the famous still-life painter Giorgio Morandi (his sister donated several of his works to Bologna). In Piazza Nettuno you can also enter the Palazzo d’Accursio through the Sala Borsa. Marble galleries, frescoed vaults, and crystal floors over the forum of ancient Bononia (Bologna’s name in the Roman age) provide a fascinating context for a busy public library, open 7 days a week from 9,00 am to midnight. The Sala Borsa is equipped with one of the largest public multimedia libraries in Europe and several PCs for Web searches. Other sights to see are: the archaeological museum (Museo Civico Archeologico) and its popular ancient Egyptian collection; the national gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale), which includes works by international favourites like Giotto, Raphael, Parmigianino, Carracci, Guido Reni; the former monastery of San Giovanni in Monte and the small but romantic square fronting it; and the unhallowed church of Santa Lucia in via Castiglione, that is now the great hall of the University. But if you really want to make the most of Bologna, just take a stroll under its porticoes, which are the longest in the world (47 km, or almost 30 miles!). Be sure to check out the picturesque alleyways around the two towers which dominate the city. (By the way, if you have good lungs and a head for heights, try climbing the steps that lead to the top of the tallest tower, the Torre degli Asinelli). Then, when the sun goes down, dress up and buy a ticket to one of the dozen shows or concerts staged every night in Bologna’s theatres – such as the Teatro Comunale, more an opera temple than just an opera house. Porticoes

CURIOSITY THE “PAVAGLIONE” AND THE ARCHIGINNASIO The busiest and liveliest portico in Bologna is the Pavaglione, under the Archiginnasio. At about 139 metres (just over 150 yards), it takes up the whole of one side of Piazza Maggiore. It was built in 1562 together with the Archiginnasio, which was home to the University until 1803, when the Alma Mater was moved to one of its current buildings in via Zamboni 33. It contains a colossal library holding as many as 750,000 books and the Sala Anatomica, a dissection theatre.

 INFO

Museo Civico Archeologico Tel. +39 (0)51/275.7211 Pinacoteca Nazionale Tel. +39 (0)51/420.9411 – 421.1984 Teatro Comunale Infoline: 199.107.070 (from Italy only) boxoffice@comunale.it IAT tourist office, Bologna Tel. +39 (0)51/246.541, Fax +39 (0)51/639.3171 touristoffice@comune.bologna.it, www.bolognaturismo.info

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HANDICRAFTS

A lutemaker

The essence of Bologna does not only lie in its red brick buildings and porticoes, but also in the old handicraft shops scattered around the old city centre, that offer a wide range of hand-made memorabilia. One of the most dominant crafts is the restoration of objets d’art – there are so many restoration workshops that one could talk about a new school of Bolognese art. The local production of copper, gold and silver artefacts dates back to the Middle Ages but makes the most of contemporary design. One of the medieval alleyways leading to the porticoes of the Archiginnasio in Piazza Maggiore is called Via degli Orefici (Goldsmiths Street) after the old goldsmiths’ guild, and is still packed with jeweller’s shops. Several skilful lutemakers are still at work in Bologna. They make violins, guitars, lutes and ocarinas, and restore and recondition other instruments such as pianos. They use the great classical luthiers of the past such as Otello Bignami as models, revising and reinterpreting their style to achieve the best results.

Violins

CURIOSITY VIA PESCHERIE VECCHIE AND THE COVERED MARKET One of the most picturesque corners of Bologna, appreciated both by tourists and the locals, is the lively Mercato Coperto (covered market), so full of colours, sounds and aromas that it seems a completely different world from the rest of the city. From Piazza Maggiore, take Via delle Pescherie until it crosses Via Clavature: the covered market is the small building at the corner, covered by a bell-shaped glass and iron roof. It was built in 1877 to house the market stalls that crowded Piazza Maggiore.

56

Virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it


BOLOGNA FOOD AND WINE Legend has it that tortellini were invented by an innkeeper who, after dreaming about Venus, tried to re-create the beauty of her navel and ended up with this world-famous shape of pasta, stuffed with several kinds of minced meat, eggs, nutmeg and parmigiano. Maybe it’s just a fancy story, but all the same, tortellini served in broth is one of the main specialities of Bologna, as is IGP Mortadella di Bologna (also known elsewhere as Bologna or baloney). Local hand-made tortellini are entirely different from the export product, so don’t waste an opportunity to taste the real thing. After all, Bologna is called La Grassa (The Fat), not because its cuisine is especially heavy, but because the Bolognese love to live it up and enjoy the pleasures of life – and of the table. The list is long: first of all, hand-rolled pasta, like tagliatelle al ragù, universally (and very poorly) imitated under the name of Spaghetti Bolognese. Then, fresh meat from local certified breeds like IGP vitellone bianco dell’Appennino Centrale, and cured meats and salami, ranging from DOP Mortadella to small salamini or DOP cacciatora, and cheeses like DOP Parmigiano Reggiano and DOP Grana Padano. The country around Bologna is one of the most generous lands in Italy, and the skill of its farmers has led to several certifications – IGP chestnuts from Castel Rio, IGP shallots from Romagna, IGP green asparagus from Altedo and DOP potatoes from Bologna. The hills around Bologna and the neighbouring town of Imola (“Colli Bolognesi” and “Colli di Imola”) are Doc wine-making areas, with a production topped by Pignoletto and Trebbiano whites.

Tortellini in broth

IGP Castel Rio chestnuts (marroni)

IGP Mortadella di Bologna

57


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58


SIGHTSEEING

in and around Bologna

CITIES OF ART • Bologna: Basilica of San Domenico, Basilica of San Francesco, Basilica of San Petronio, the two towers (Due Torri), Palazzo d’Accursio, Palazzo de’ Banchi, Palazzo dei Notai, Palazzo Podestà, Piazza Maggiore, Palazzo Re Enzo, the seven churches (Sette Chiese) of Santo Stefano

SPA RESORTS • Terme di Castel San Pietro, Terme di Porretta, Terme Felsinee, Terme dell’Agriturismo

PARKS • Parco Regionale dei Gessi Bolognesi e Calanchi dell’Abbadessa, Parco Regionale dell’Abbazia di Monteveglio, Parco Regionale del Corno alle Scale, Parco Storico Regionale di Monte Sole, Parco Regionale dei Laghi di Suviana e Brasimone

WILDLIFE RESERVES • Riserva Naturale Orientata del Bosco della Frattona CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES • Castello dei Bentivoglio and Villa Smeraldi in San Marino di Bentivoglio, the fortress (Rocca) in Dozza, Rocca Sforzesca and Palazzo Tozzoni in Imola, Rocca dei Bentivoglio in Bazzano, Castello dei Ronchi in Crevalcore; Palazzo Albergati and Palazzo Bentivoglio-Pepoli in Zola Predosa, the castle of Monteveglio, Palazzo della Comunità in Medicina, Palazzo and Rocca degli Isolani in Minerbio, Villa Griffone in Pontecchio Marconi, Palazzo de’ Rossi in Sasso Marconi, Castello Manservisi in Porretta Terme, Palazzo Pepoli in Castiglione dei Pepoli, Palazzo Alidosi in Castel del Rio GOLF CLUBS • Golf Club Bologna (18 holes - Crespellano), Golf Club Le Fonti (18 holes - Castel San Pietro Terme), Golf Club Molino Del Pero (9 holes - Monzuno), Golf Club Casalunga (9 holes - Castenaso), Golf Club Imola “Il Grifone” (6 holes) MOTORS • “Enzo e Dino Ferrari” racetrack (Imola), Collezione storica del trasporto pubblico ATC (ATC museum of public transport), Museo Ducati, Museo Lamborghini (Sant’Agata), Museo Memoriale della Libertà (museum and memorial to freedom), Museo del Patrimonio Industriale (museum of industrial heritage) THEATRES • Teatro Comunale di Bologna, Teatro Consorziale di Budrio, Teatro Comunale di San Giovanni in Persiceto, Teatro Comunale di Imola

WINE-PRODUCING TOWNS • Calderara di Reno, Sasso Marconi, Bazzano, Castello di Serravalle, Crespellano, Monte San Pietro, Monteveglio, Savigno, Vergato, Zola Predosa, Borgo Tossignano, Casalfiumanese, Castel del Rio, Castel Guelfo, Castel San Pietro Terme, Dozza, Fontanelice, Imola. Ozzano dell’Emilia FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) • Food and Wine Trail through Towns, Castles and Cherry Orchards (Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori “Città Castelli Ciliegi”), Food and Wine Trail of the Hills around Imola (Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori dei Colli d’Imola)

59


Bologna, the City of Culture Around Bologna

San Giovanni in Persiceto

Pieve di Cento

Porretta Terme

CURIOSITY WONDERS OF THE NIGHT SKY Would you like to see the sky through a real telescope? The telescopes, radiotelescopes and planetariums of Bologna, Loiano, Medicina, Monte San Pietro and San Giovanni in Persiceto are open to the public from April to October. See the stars under a different light through field telescopes or simple binoculars, or using more advanced sighting systems. Info: www.bo.astro.it

60

The charm of the landscape surrounding Bologna lies in small details: the atmosphere in its lovely porticoed piazzas, small baroque churches that appear unexpectedly at the side of a country road, abandoned oratories in the middle of fields and little-known museums with impressive art treasures. In fact you will be spoilt for choice: every town and village in this region has its own, old and often noble, story to tell. On the plain, you can visit jewels like San Giovanni in Persiceto, with its Renaissance and baroque buildings. The first place to visit is the collegiate church (Collegiata) of San Giovanni Battista, built by Paolo Maria Canali in the late 16th century, on the remains of the old Romanesque church that gave the town its name. It holds fabulous masterpieces by Guercino, Francesco Albani, Ercole Graziani and Ubaldo Gandolfi. East of the Via Emilia, in the lowest area of the Po valley, Pieve di Cento comes as a pleasant surprise: this small, sleepy town features a 14th-century fortress, a museum and an old well in the centre of the main square, which was designed by the same architect as the cathedral of San Petronio in Bologna. Another charming place is Budrio, that in foggy nights seems to rise from the clouds, a fairytale town. It still bears the marks of past splendours, such as the Palazzo Boriani dalla Noce or several baroque churches, like San Lorenzo. This small town also offers an art gallery (Pinacoteca civica), an archaeological museum, and a very active theatre (Teatro Consorziale) attracting theatre-goers from the whole area. The towns and villages around Bologna may be small, but they are irresistibly fascinating, like the medieval towns of Medicina (so called because of miraculous recoveries that took place there) and Castel Guelfo, sporting a classic manor with massive walls and battlemented round towers, so well-kept that it would seem natural to see damsels and armoured knights walking around town. Time has stopped still in Castel del Rio, too: perched on a steep hill of the Apennines at the border between Emilia and Tuscany, it still retains its feudal atmosphere. Near Castel del Rio there are at least three other gems: Castel San Pietro, Dozza and Imola.


The medieval town of Minerbio (so called because in Roman times it was consecrated to Minerva), once ruled over by the Visconti family, has an aristocratic stronghold, the Palazzo degli Isolani and the Castello di San Martino. The entire town has a medieval air about it. These places remind us of princes and ladies, artists and saints, but what about the common people? The folk museum in San Marino di Bentivoglio (Museo della Civiltà contadina) helps us understand how they lived. And, to get an idea of the kind of entertainment they enjoyed, visit the smallest puppet museum in the world (Museo dei Burattini), in Crevalcore. Another sight you won’t easily find in other guidebooks is the tiny village of Selva Malvezzi near Molinella, dating from the 17th century, where all the buildings, including an old apothecary and the central Palazzo del Governatore, are perfectly preserved.

Dozza

Imola

 INFO

Pinacoteca Civica e Museo Archeologico Tel. +39 (0)51/692.8281 – 801.220 Museo Civico Leo Preti Tel. +39 (0)51/680.0834 (open on request) www.comune.crevalcore.bo.it Palazzo Tozzoni Tel. +39 (0)542/602.609

Castel San Pietro

CURIOSITY THE CARNIVAL IN SAN GIOVANNI IN PERSICETO The Carnival held in San Giovanni in Persiceto (during the last two weeks of the Carnival period) is something you won’t find anywhere else. After the usual parade along the streets of the old town centre, during the ceremony of the spillo the outer structures of the floats are stripped down to reveal their real allegorical meaning. Info: Tel. +39 (0)51/681.2795 www.comunepersiceto.it

61


MUSEUMS IN BOLOGNA

MUSEI UNIVERSITARI (University museums) A number of interesting University museums ranging from the 1568 herb and botanical gardens (Orto botanico ed Erbario) to the Naval museum (Museo delle Navi), from the Museum of astronomy to those of Obstetrics, Zoology, Anthropology and many others. Palazzo Raggi, via Zamboni, 33 Tel. +39 (0)51/209.9610 – 209.9398

MUSEO DEL PATRIMONIO INDUSTRIALE (Museum of industrial heritage) Although the interactive displays that visitors can experience here make it seem like a theme park, this is one of the largest and most visited Italian technical museums. The exhibits – machines, blueprints, engines, prototypes, various equipment – are housed in the beautifully restored Galotti brick kiln. Via Beverara, 123 c/o ex Fornace Galotti Tel. +39 (0)51/635.6611, Fax +39 (0)51/634.6053

MUSEO DUCATI The Ducati museum attracts visitors from all over the world, who come to see the Ducati works and this gallery of cult motorbikes. Via Cavalieri Ducati, 3 Tel. +39 (0)51/641.3111- 3343, Fax +39 (0)51/641.3113

ISTITUZIONE VILLA SMERALDI – MUSEO DELLA CIVILTÀ CONTADINA (folk museum) One of the largest folk museums in Italy, with a rich collection of farming machines and equipment, tools and objects used by local farmers in their everyday life and work. Admission charge. Via Sanmarina, 35c - San Marino di Bentivoglio Tel. +39 (0)51/891.050, Fax +39 (0)51/898.377 musei@nts.provincia.bologna.it www.provincia.bologna.it/cultura/vsmeraldi

MUSEO NAZIONALE ETRUSCO “P. ARIA” The National Etruscan museum contains the relics found in the archaeological site of Marzabotto. An Etruscan village dating from the 6th century BC was found here in the mid-19th century and the ruins are still being excavated today. Admission charge. Via Porrettana Sud, 13 - Marzabotto Tel./Fax +39 (0)51/932353 www3.unibo.it/archeologia/marzabotto/ITA/museo/museo.htm

MUSEO DI SAN DOMENICO This museum was created in Imola in 2004, from three other institutions – the Pinacoteca Comunale, the Museo Archeologico Naturalistico G. Scartabelli and the Museo Archeologico. It holds relics showing the history of the culture and history of the town. Admission charge. Via Sacchi, 4 - Imola Tel. +39 (0)542/602.609 musei@comune.imola.bo.it www.comune.imola.bo.it/museicomunali

62


EVENTS IN BOLOGNA IL CINEMA RITROVATO (CINEMA LOST AND FOUND) A festival of silent films, recently restored movies and long-lost fragments. Promoted by the Cineteca di Bologna film archives and the Mostra Internazionale del Cinema Libero (International Festival of Independent Film). WHEN: early July WHERE: P.za Maggiore, Teatro Comunale, Cinema Lumière and Arlecchino COST: admission charge; free shows in Piazza Maggiore. INFO: Tel. +39 (0)51/219.4814, cinetecamanifestazioni1@comune.bologna.it www.cinetecadibologna.it BOLOGNA FESTIVAL A season of classical concerts and shows which combines music with the visual arts, theatre and ballet. WHEN: April, May, June, September, October WHERE: Europauditorium “M. Cagli”, Teatro Comunale, Teatro Manzoni and other locations around Bologna COST: admission charge INFO: Tel. +39 (0)51/649.3397- 245 Fax +39 (0)51/528.0098, bofest@tin.it www.bolognafestival.it FUTURE FILM FESTIVAL The first and most important Italian festival dedicated to new digital technologies in cinema, TV and the Internet. WHEN: January WHERE: several cinemas in Bologna COST: admission charge INFO: Tel. +39 (0)51/296.7581, info@futurefilmfestival.org www.futurefilmfestival.org PORRETTA SOUL FESTIVAL A top-level international musical event bringing on the stage the best Soul and Rhythm & Blues performers in the world. WHEN: July WHERE: Porretta Terme COST: admission charge INFO: IAT: Tel. +39 (0)534/220.21 - Associazione Sweet Soul Music: Tel. +39 (0)534/306.24, sweetsoulmusic@libero.it www.porrettasoul.com ORGANI ANTICHI (ANCIENT ORGANS) A season of concerts in 13 different towns; world-famous organists perform on old church organs. WHEN: April to December WHERE: Anzola dell’Emilia, Argelato, Budrio, Casalecchio di Reno, Castenaso, Castel Maggiore, Imola, Medicina, Minerbio, Molinella, Sala Bolognese, San Pietro Casale, Zola Predosa COST: ticket prices vary INFO: Associazione Organi Antichi, Tel. +39 (0)51/248.677 info@organiantichi.org www.organiantichi.org TARTUFESTA (TRUFFLE FAIR) A real festival in the old sense, with concerts, buskers, cultural events, in a small village in the Apennines. And of course, market stalls selling local specialities that are usually impossible to find in shops. WHEN: October/November WHERE: the towns of the Comunità Montane (Mountain communities) “Cinque Valli Bolognesi”, “Alta e Media Valle del Reno”, “Val Samoggia” COST: free INFO: Provincia di Bologna, Tel. +39 (0)51/659.8545

63


Ferrara, earth and water Photos alone aren’t enough to capture the atmosphere of Ferrara. The best way to savour its beauty is to stroll or pedal around, and believe us – at the end of the day, aching though your feet may be, your eyes will still be asking for more! If you don’t believe us, take it from Unesco: the entire area enclosed by the city walls is on the World Heritage list. The Po delta, too, is really spectacular. There is no other place like this in Europe – a maze of ancient lagoons and floodplains, where seawater mingles with the river Po and tiny islands rise to the surface in lace-like formations. If you want to make the most of this extraordinary place, hire a bike, pedal leisurely along one of the cycle paths running along the river bank and strike up a conversation with one of the many other cycling tourists you will meet on the way. ART AND CULTURE The first thing to know about Ferrara is that it owes its beauty to the Este family, the great dynasty that ruled the town for over 300 years. The main sight is the sumptuous Castello Estense (Este castle), a typical example of medieval architecture, later adapted to meet the needs and more pleasure-oriented life of the Renaissance. It is one of the few Italian castles whose moats are still filled with water, and an ideal landmark when going around town, as it stands at the centre of the circle formed by the city walls. Many of its splendid rooms are open to the public; on the first floor there is also a bookshop with interesting books on the art and history of Ferrara. Other highlights are the 12th-century Cathedral with its superb Gothic Romanesque facade, and the palaces of the dukes of Este, starting with Palazzo dei Diamanti, dating from the 15th century. It is one 64

Palazzo Schifanoia

Castello Estense

Via delle Volte


FERRARA of the finest buildings in Europe, named “Palace of the Diamonds” after the 8,000 diamond-shaped marble blocks on its facade. It’s now home to an art gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale) and a modern art gallery (Galleria d’Arte Moderna), where top-level international exhibitions are held twice a year. The Palazzo Schifanoia was a delizia: a palace where the court enjoyed banquets and balls, and generally escaped from boredom (which is the literal translation of Schifanoia). The 16th-century Palazzina Marfisa d’Este is yet another example of the opulent lifestyle of the Este family. In the Renaissance, the Palazzo Municipale (town hall) also contained Este family apartments, that now house municipal offices and are not usually open to the public. It is possible, however, to visit the richly decorated Stanzino delle Duchesse (Duchesses’ Room) during opening hours. You will find it at the top of the monumental 15th-century staircase in Piazza Comunale (through the arch right in front of the Cathedral). Few tourists venture into the labyrinth of the dark medieval alleys of the old town centre, unwittingly missing some of the most picturesque parts of town. Try walking down the cobbled 2-kmlong Via delle Volte, full of arches, and turn into one of the romantic and quiet streets crossing it: Via Crocebianca, Via Centoversuri, Via Sacca, or Via Colomba. The latter leads to the pretty Piazza San Nicolò, a small, half-hidden, tree-lined square with an unconsecrated church (its huge apse was designed by Biagio Rossetti). There is also a garden, and a beautiful house with a facade framed in terracotta tiles nearby.

 INFO

Palazzo dei Diamanti

CURIOSITY

MAGICAL FERRARA Did you know that it was possible to calculate the “point of the Sun’s greatest splendour”? This is just one of the bizarre discoveries made by astrologers at the service of the House of Este during the Renaissance. They also found that the Quadrivio degli Angeli (Angels Crossing) was the spot of Ferrara most charged with cosmic energy.

Castello Estense Tel. +39 (0)532/299.233 Cathedral Tel. +39 (0)532/207.449 Palazzo Schifanoia Tel. +39 (0)532/244.949 Pinacoteca Nazionale - Palazzo dei Diamanti Tel. +39 (0)532/205.844 Palazzina Marfisa d’Este Tel. +39 (0)532/244.949 IAT Tourist office, Ferrara Tel. +39 (0)532/299.303 - 419.474 infotur@provincia.fe.it www.ferrarainfo.com

65


HANDICRAFTS

Ceramica graffita

Piazza Duomo

The typical crafts of Ferrara are not just a few decades old – they go back to the Renaissance or even the Middle Ages, one example being ceramica graffita (scratched pottery). It is the result of a peculiar engraving technique that involves scratching pots and plates with an iron-tipped stylus. The engravings are then decorated with basic colours that fuse and fade during the firing process, creating fascinating chromatic effects. Traditional designs include lovers, portraits of young courtiers of the Este court, unicorns, carnations and elegant leaf patterns. To learn more about this technique, you can enrol in a half-day course (and take home your own masterpiece), or watch an expert potter work for a couple of hours. The art of ceramica graffita was so rooted in the Renaissance that the court of Duke Alfonso D’Este was the first in Italy to replace gold and silver tableware with ceramics. Other handicrafts, particularly appreciated by collectors, include wood sculptures and wickerwork made from paviera (a reed that grows in the marshes and canals of the Po delta): mats, pieces of furniture, baskets or floating duckshaped hunting decoys.

Ceramica graffita

CURIOSITY

THE MARKETS OF FERRARA

Every Sunday, Ferrara comes alive with small markets that sell a bit of everything. Check out the stalls in Piazza Trento e Trieste (every week except August) and mix with the locals looking for bargains. Info: Tel. +39 (0)532/299.303 - 419.474 www.ferrarainfo.com

66

Virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it


FERRARA FOOD AND WINE The typical bread of Ferrara is considered one of the tastiest in the world, and has been certified IGP by the European Union. Called coppia ferrarese, it is an X-shaped bread with 4 crusty horns on the corners. All restaurants serve a particular variety of this bread – crusty or soft, with or without fat. A tin of eel marinade (anguilla marinata) from Comacchio makes a good souvenir, while other specialities are better eaten locally, such as IGP clams from Goro and IGP garlic from Voghiera, perfect in spaghetti allo scoglio (with seafood). Memorable specialities also include cappellacci di zucca (a sort of large tortellini filled with pumpkin, Parmigiano and egg, served with a rich ragout), and salama da sugo (cured minced pork meat stuffed inside a pork bladder, then boiled and served hot with mashed potatoes, or cold, sliced on bread). Such delicacies deserve the right wine – a DOC bottle from the Bosco Eliceo area. Fruit, too, is particularly good: try the local IGP variety of pears (Pera dell’Emilia Romagna). After fruit, it’s time for dessert: pampepato, a kind of gingerbread cake stuffed with nuts and coated in dark chocolate, or mandorlini del ponte, hard biscuits with whole almonds.

Eels from Comacchio

IGP Pears from Emilia Romagna

Salama da sugo

67


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68


SIGHTSEEING

in and around Ferrara

CITIES OF ART • Ferrara: Casa Romei, Palazzina Marfisa d’Este, Palazzo Costabili, Palazzo dei Diamanti, Palazzo Massari, Museo della Cattedrale • Cento: Pinacoteca Civica • Comacchio: Museo della Nave Romana, Manifattura dei Marinati

SPA RESORTS • Termae Oasis

PARKS • Parco Regionale Delta del Po

WILDLIFE RESERVES • Riserva Naturale Dune Fossili di Massenzatica, Gran Bosco della Mesola

CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES• Castello Estense and Palazzo Schifanoia in Ferrara, Castello Estense in Mesola, Rocca di Stellata, Delizia del Verginese, Delizia di Bel Riguardo

GOLF CLUBS • Boscovecchio Argenta Golf Club (18 holes), Cus Ferrara Golf (18 holes), Golf Club Cento (9 holes), Golf Club Fossadalbero (9 holes)

MOTORS • “Ferruccio Lamborghini” Centre (Dosso di S.Agostino)

THEATRES • Teatro Comunale in Ferrara, Teatro Borgatti in Cento

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) • Food and Wine Trail of the Great River (La Via del Grande Fiume), Food and Wine Trail of the Este Courts (La Via delle Corti Estensi), Food and Wine Trail of the Po Delta (La Via del Delta del Po)

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Ferrara, earth and water Around Ferrara

Mesola

Verginese

Pomposa

CURIOSITY A COLLECTOR’S WATER PARADISE All antique markets can be fun, but one whose stalls run along the canals makes for an unforgettable experience. The market on water is held in Comacchio for various events, festivals etc. There are no fixed dates, so it’s a good idea to ring the tourist office for more detailed information. Info: Tourist office, Tel.+39(0)533/310.161 www.comacchio.it

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There is much more around Ferrara than just the Po delta. It’s true that the regional park (parco regionale), with its marshes and ponds, vast pinewoods, and iridescent light, is a superb example of unspoilt wilderness. But a short drive (or bicycle ride) away from Ferrara you will also find a rich array of Benedictine churches, archaeological sites, castles, art galleries and palaces included in Unesco’s World Heritage list. If you don’t have much time and are forced to choose your destinations carefully, an absolute must-see is the Abbazia di Pomposa and another abbey in Comacchio. A vividly frescoed masterpiece of Romanesque and Byzantine architecture and art, Pomposa can be seen from a significant distance thanks to its tall belltower. Comacchio looks like a smaller version of Venice: a maze of canals spanned by 17th-century bridges and lined with houses painted in pastel shades. The main highlight is the Trepponti bridge, dating back to 1634. A far less known sight is the Town hall (Municipio), where right in front of the mayor’s office there is a collection of carnival costumes designed by the local painter Remo Brindisi, who died in 1996. And on that topic, the nearby town of Lido di Spina has a museum dedicated to the artist. It is housed in Brindisi’s futuristic villa, a building with an irregular plan, circular corridors and a winding staircase. Another interesting place to visit in Comacchio is the archaeological museum containing the well-preserved Roman ship that was found there. While walking under the porticoes leading to the Capuchin monastery (Loggiato dei Cappuccini) look out for the very peculiar Manifattura dei Marinati. Once this was a factory making the town’s main produce – fish marinades – but now it is a museum which still contains the original structures and equipment and has twelve fireplaces, spits and barrels. A few miles south of Comacchio are the Valli di Comacchio, which were once a vast lagoon and are now a complex of wetlands, stretches of water, low hills and salt marshes. Typical buildings of this area are fishing huts called casoni; 8 out of the original 150 casoni are still standing and can be reached by motor boat. Heading inland from the Po delta near Argenta there is another protected area, the Oasi


di Campotto. In Argenta you can rent a bike and pedal around to take a look at small gems like the oldest church of the area, the 6th-century parish church (pieve) of San Giorgio, half-hidden behind a curtain of trees. Cento, too, is worth a visit: this elegant town with 17th-century porticoes was the birthplace of the famous painter Guercino, whose masterpieces are kept at the Pinacoteca Civica. Last but not least, a tour of the delizie estensi (all on the World Heritage list), the palaces where the dukes of Este used to go with their court to relax and engage in leisure activities such as hunting and banqueting. The most beautiful locations are the Delizia del Verginese in Gambulaga di Portomaggiore (a miniature castle built by Alfonso d’Este as a gift to his lover Laura Dianti) and the Castello del Belriguardo in Voghiera, the most sumptuous Este residence, also known as “the Versailles of the Este”.

Argenta

Voghiera

Valli di Comacchio

 INFO

Pieve di San Giorgio - Argenta Tel. +39 (0)532/808.058 Pinacoteca Civica - Cento Tel. +39 (0)51/684.3390 Abbazia di Pomposa - Pomposa Tel. +39 (0)533/719.152 Museo della Nave Romana - Comacchio Tel. +39 (0)533/311.316 Museo Alternativo d’Arte Contemporanea ‘Remo Brindisi’- Loc. Lido Di Spina Tel. +39 (0)533/318.748 Manifattura dei Marinati Centro Visite del Parco del Delta del Po Laboratorio di lavorazione dell’anguilla marinata tradizionale delle Valli di Comacchio Tel. +39 (0)533/811.59 – 314.003

CURIOSITY MOSQUITOES, A POETIC NUISANCE In and around Ferrara, summertime mosquitoes have always been an irritating presence. Even the world-renowned 16th-century poet, Torquato Tasso, wrote a poem about the bites of this small “proud and buzzing warrior”! Tasso, the author of the epic Jerusalem Delivered, spent most of his life in Ferrara, under the patronage of the Este dukes.

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MUSEUMS IN FERRARA

CASTELLO ESTENSE A medieval fortress turned into a splendid ducal palace by the Este in the 16th century. The tour of the castle includes the dungeon, the frescoed rooms on the first floor and the Torre dei Leoni (Tower of the Lions), the oldest part of the building. Largo Castello, 1 Tel. +39 (0)532/299.233 www.castelloestense.it MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE Housed in a sumptuous 15th-century palace, this archaeological museum contains the precious relics found in the ancient Etruscan city of Spina, in the Po delta. Palazzo Costabili Via XX Settembre, 124 Tel. +39 (0)532/662.99 MUSEO DELLA CATTEDRALE Highlights of the Museum of the Cathedral are the organ panels by Cosmè (or Cosimo) Tura – the Annunciation and Saint George and the Dragon – and a set of 13th-century bas-relief illustrating the labours of the months, that once adorned the portal of the Cathedral (Porta dei Mesi). Unconsecrated church and cloister of San Romano Via San Romano Tel. +39 (0)532/209.988 - 761.299 MUSEO DELLA NAVE ROMANA – the bounty of the Roman ship From ointment vases to pocket temples for travellers, the bounty of the Roman ship found in Comacchio, the Fortuna Maris, is now exhibited in Palazzo Bellini. Via della Pescheria, 2 – Comacchio Tel. +39 (0)533/311.316 fortunamaris@libero.it www.comune.comacchio.fe.it

ECOMUSEO What is an “ecomuseum”? It’s a museum that is an integral part of the local human and environmental ecosystem. The ecomuseum of Argenta has a natural history section and three museum sections: the Museo delle Valli di Argenta (Museum of the wetlands around Argenta), the Museo della Bonifica (Land reclamation museum) and the Museo Civico (civic museum). c/o Casino di Campotto Via Cardinala - Campotto Tel. +39 (0)532/808.058 www.parcodeltapo.it

MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO DI VOGHENZA A small museum containing the exceptional relics found in the Roman necropolis of Voghenza: gold and amber jewellery, amphorae, bottles, vases and boxes, and a rich collection of epigraphs. Delizia di Belriguardo - Voghiera. Tel. +39 (0)532/328.500 – 328.511 www.comune.voghiera.fe.it

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EVENTS IN FERRARA THE PALIO IN FERRARA Ferrara has the oldest Palio in the world (it dates back to 1259) and is officially opened by a parade involving over 1,000 people dressed in Renaissance costumes, followed by four competitions among eight contrade (town districts). WHEN: last weekend in May WHERE: Piazza Ariostea COST: approx. 25,00 euro for a gallery seat INFO: Ente Palio Tel. +39 (0)532/751.263 www.paliodiferrara.it

MILLE MIGLIA Ferrara is one of the stops of Italy’s most renowned vintage car race, a rare occasion to see dozens of unique pieces built between the 1920s and 50s. WHEN: May WHERE: Piazza Trento e Trieste COST: free INFO: Organizzazione Mille Miglia Tel. +39 (0)30/280.036 www.millemiglia.it

FERRARA BUSKERS FESTIVAL The first and largest buskers’ festival in Italy, now imitated by several similar events. It attracts participants and visitors from the four corners of the globe, who fill the alleyways and courtyards of the old town centre with their music and visual performances. WHEN: last week of August WHERE: streets and squares of the old town centre in Ferrara COST: free INFO: Ferrara Buskers Festival Tel. +39 (0)532/249.337 www.ferrarabuskers.com

CENTO CARNEVALE D’EUROPA Hundreds of costumed people parade along the streets and 17th-century porticoes of the town centre, accompanied by papier-mâché floats up to 20 metres tall. The carnival in Cento is twinned with that of Rio de Janeiro. WHEN: February and March WHERE: Cento – old town centre COST: approx. 8,00/11,00 euro INFO: Tel. +39 (0)51/904.252 info@carnevalecento.com www.carnevalecento.com

SFILATA D’AMORE E MODA A fashion show imitating that of Piazza di Spagna in Rome, set on the steps of the Trepponti bridge. The canals in Comacchio provide a fascinating backdrop for the collections of world-famous fashion designers. A unique catwalk. WHEN: June WHERE: Comacchio - Trepponti COST: admission charge INFO: Tourist office Tel. +39 (0)533/310.161 www.comune.comacchio.fe.it

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Ravenna, the capital of mosaics Legend has it that the Byzantines were a fabulous and mysterious people, qualities that certainly also apply to one of their main cities – Ravenna, the former capital of the Western Empire. Ravenna is a European “superstar” city which attracts visitors from the four corners of the world. They come here to see – at least once in their lives – its unparalleled Byzantine mosaics with complex allegorical meanings. It is not by accident that as many as eight of the monuments of Ravenna have been included in the World Heritage List: the Basilica of San Vitale, the Mausoleums of Galla Placidia and Theodoric, the Basilicas of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo and Sant’Apollinare in Classe, two baptisteries (Battistero degli Ariani and Battistero Neoniano) and the Chapel of Sant’Andrea in the Museo Arcivescovile. ART AND CULTURE Strolling around Ravenna is an opportunity to see bizarre round bell-towers mirrored by the Candiano canal, some lovely cloisters and tall belfries. Unfortunately, however, it would take a lifetime to see all the beautiful things in Ravenna, so it is probably a good idea not to wander about too long and make sure you see the main sights. Ravenna is the very symbol of the fusion between the West and the East (the Byzantines came from the Bosporus). This fusion left a very tangible heritage: Ravenna has the world’s richest and most well-known examples of ancient and Early Christian mosaics dating from the 5th and 6th century AD, all within a few hundred square yards. Not to mention that, with its 35 km-long coasts (over 20 miles), it also offers the beauty of the Adriatic sea. What makes the mosaics in Ravenna so different from those in Rome and Venice is that their tesserae are different from one another, so that the final result doesn’t seem 74

Galla Placidia

Battistero degli Ariani

Mauseoleum of Theodoric


RAVENNA two-dimensional. The Byzantines used a variety of shaped tesserae made from materials such as gold and mother-of-pearl, and laid them unevenly. As a result, the surface of the mosaics reflects light irregularly, with effects that change as you move about the room. Subjects span from Biblical figures to kings, saints, sages and emperors, such as the powerful empress Theodora, an extremely beautiful woman of humble origin: one can still see her in the Basilica of San Vitale, next to Emperor Justinian. Another famous subject is the solemn portrait of Saint Apollinare in the church that bears the same name. Also famous is the lovely starry sky in the small mausoleum of Galla Placidia. Leaving these magical places can be almost painful. But Ravenna is full of other marvels, such as the palaces where Lord Byron used to meet some of his lovers, or the parts of town where Dante Alighieri lived for the last years of his life. Dante, the father of Italian language and poetry, was buried here and the local theatre was named after him. Next to his tomb and the Franciscan cloister you will find the church of San Francesco, whose crypt (which is below sea level) is permanently flooded and can only be seen through glass. With its mosaic floor and slender columns, it looks like a small swimming pool. For those who like archaeology, the splendid Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra (Roman house of “stone carpets”) and the Domus del Triclinio (Roman house of the triclinium) are must-sees. And if you haven’t had enough of art yet, try the MAR (Museo d’arte di Ravenna) art museum. Ravenna also caters for music lovers, with prestigious live shows at the annual Ravenna Festival.

 INFO

S. Apollinare Nuovo

CURIOSITA’ “NIGHT AND DAY, YOU ARE THE ONE...”

Legend has it that the starry sky in the mausoleum of Galla Placidia inspired the great American musician Cole Porter, who came to Ravenna on his honeymoon, and is said to have written his popular song “Night and Day” after visiting this monument.

Basilica of San Vitale and Mausoleum of Galla Placidia Tel. +39 (0)544/215.193 www.ravennamosaici.it Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe Tel. +39 (0)544/473.661 IAT Tourist office, Classe Tel. +39 (0)544/473.661 classe.iat@libero.it Mausoleum of Theodoric Tel. +39 (0)544/451.539 teodorico.iat@libero.it Teatro Alighieri Tel. +39 (0)544/249.244, Fax +39 (0)544/215.840 info@teatroalighieri.org, www.teatroalighieri.org Museo Arcivescovile Tel. +39 (0)544/215.201 www.ravennamosaici.it IAT Tourist office, Ravenna Tel. +39 (0)544/354.04, Fax +39 (0)544/350.94 iatravenna@comune.ra.it

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HANDICRAFTS

Theodora, mosaic

Mosaic workshop

Several craft shops keep the mosaic tradition alive in Ravenna. Here it is possible not only to take home a unique work of art, but also to learn how to make one in a prestigious school that trains mosaic makers who go on to work in the fields of interior, exterior and furniture design. If that sounds like too much effort, why not head for the short summer art courses organized for tourists by the Centro Internazionale Studio e Insegnamento del Mosaico (CISIM), or Mosaic Research and Learning International Centre. Another less well known handicraft of Ravenna is Byzantine embroidery or trimming. This consists of reproducing on fabric the designs and patterns of the ancient mosaics, marble decorations, and bas-reliefs found in local Basilicas. For centuries, the local cloistered nuns were the only guardians of this silent, patient art, whose masterpiece is the “Classe” veil kept at the Museo Nazionale di Ravenna. Finally, the most typical handicraft of Romagna is rust-printed linen or rough cotton cloths, decorated with traditional patterns. Colours may vary, but the most characteristic colour is rust brown, which is obtained from an iron oxide mixture.

 INFO

CISIM Tel. +39 (0)544/450.345, Fax +39 (0)544/451.788 mosaico@racine.ra.it www.mosaico.ravenna.it Artigianato artistico bizantino (Byzantine fine handicrafts) Russi (Ra) Tel. +39 (0)544/580.869 Stamperia Miserocchi (rust prints) S. Stefano (RA) Tel. +39 (0)544/563.728

CURIOSITY GUIDARELLO STATUE, MUSEO D’ARTE DELLA CITTÀ, PINACOTECA COMUNALE

Legend has it that if a woman kisses the statue of the handsome Guidarello she will be married before the end of the year. This male version of the Sleeping Beauty fairytale (sculpted by Tullio Lombardo in 1525) is the star exhibit of the Pinacoteca Comunale, or civic art gallery.

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Virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it


RAVENNA FOOD AND WINE Eating in Romagna is an exalting experience that goes beyond mere consumption of food. Here eating is a way to enjoy the company of friends, perhaps followed by ballroom dancing (liscio) at the end of the meal. The typical food of Romagna is substantial, starting with pasta dishes such as cappelletti (a sort of tortellini, only with cheese instead of meat), individually hand-made by the legendary azdòre, housewives with a strong character and even stronger arms, who roll their pasta out with a rolling pin. Azdòre also hand-roll piadina (a type of unleavened bread dating back to the Roman era): you can buy this speciality from one of the many stands along the roads of Romagna. Piadina is best accompanied by cured ham, sausage, greens or soft cheeses. Among the meat dishes is grilled pork cooked on a charcoal fire, often served with pinzimonio (a selection of raw vegetables dipped in salt and oil – perhaps even DOP extravirgin olive oil from Brisighella). Last but not least, just before coffee come hard almond cookies, tortelli (fritters) filled with marmelade, and ciambella (plain cake), which is perfect soaked in sweet wines such as Albana white or Cagnina red.

DOP Olive Oil from Brisighella

Osteria Cà de’ Ven

Cappelletti and local wines

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Porotto

Finale Emilia

Goro

Formignana

Vigarano

Mirabello

Mainarda

Tresigallo

S.Agostin

in Bosco

A1

Gorino

Fiscaglia

Torello

S.Bartolomeo

Migliarin

Voghiera

Poggio

Renatico

S.Pietro

Massa

Migliaro

Masi

Pomposa

Lagosanto

Ostellato

Malalberg

Portomaggiore

in Casale

Comacchio

S.Giorgio di Piano

Baricella

Bentivoglio

Molinella

Minerbio

Argenta

ara no

Granarolo

dell’Emilia

Budrio

Bologna

Conselice

Castenaso

Alfonsine

Medicina S.Lazzaro

A14

di Savena

S.Agata

Ozzano

dell’Emilia

Lidi di Comacchio

Fusignano

Massa

V. Emi lia

s.Santerno

Lugo

Lombarda

Castel

Guelfo di Bol.

Punta Marina

Ravenna

Bagnacavall

Mordano

Castel

A1

S. Pietro Terme

Cotignola

Pianoro

Russi

Solarolo

Dozza

Imola

Castel

Bolognese

Monterenzio

Casalfiumanes

Faenza

Riolo Terme

Borgo

Cervia

9

Tossignano

Fontanelic

Brisighella

Forli’

Casola

Castel

Valseni

Terra

del Rio

del Sole

Firenze

Cesenatico

Forlimpopol

Gatteo a mare S. Mauro mare

Bertinoro

Castrocaro Terme

Modigliana

Cesena

Méldola Dovadola

Predappio

Firenze

Fratta

Bellaria Igea Marina

A1

V. Emi lia

Gatteo

Savignano

s. Rubicone

Rocca

Longiano

S.Casciano

Roncofreddo

Portico

di Romagna

Sogliano

Galeata S.Benedetto in Alpe

Firenze

78

S.Mauro Pascoli

Montiano Tredozio

Civitella

di Romagna

al Rubicone

Santarcange lo

Borghi

Poggio Berni

Torriana Montebello Verucchio

Premilcuore S. Sofia

Repubblica

di San Marino

M


SIGHTSEEING

in and around Ravenna

CITIES OF ART • Ravenna: Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, Mausoleum of Theodoric, MAR (Museo d’Arte della Città), Sant’Apollinare in Classe, Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, San Vitale, Battistero degli Ariani, Battistero Neoniano, Cappella di Sant’Andrea, Tomba di Dante (Dante’s tomb), Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra, Domus del Triclinio • Faenza: Museo Internazionale delle Ceramiche, Museo Neoclassico in Palazzo Milzetti

SPA RESORTS • Terme di Brisighella, Terme di Cervia, Terme di Riolo, Terme di Punta Marina

PARKS • Parco Regionale Delta del Po, Parco Naturale del Carnè

mare

auro mare

ellaria Igea Marina

WILDLIFE RESERVES • Riserva Naturale Alfonsine, Giardino delle Erbe Officinali (Garden of officinal herbs) in Casola Valsenio

arcange lo

ca

rino

CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES • The castle of Casola Valsenio; the fortresses (rocca) of Brisighella, Riolo, Bagnara and Lugo; Rocca Brancaleone (Ravenna), Palazzo Teodorico (Ravenna) M

GOLF CLUBS • Adriatic Golf Club Cervia (18 holes), Riolo Golf & Country Club (18 holes - Riolo Terme), Golf Club Faenza “Le Cicogne” (4 holes)

THEATRES • Teatro Alighieri in Ravenna, Teatro Masini in Faenza, Teatro Rossini in Lugo

WINE-PRODUCING TOWNS • Brisighella, Castel Bolognese, Faenza, Riolo Terme

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADE DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) • Strada del Sangiovese, Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori delle Colline di Faenza (Food and wine trail of the hills around Faenza)

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Ravenna, the capital of mosaics Around Ravenna

Brisighella

Bagnacavallo

Riolo Terme

CURIOSITY PIATTO VERDE

The “piatto verde” cookery competition among Europeanand Italian hotel management schools is hosted by one of the participants, the Riolo Terme school. It is known as “the green dish” because all the competing dishes must include the herbs and spices grown in the hills around Ravenna. Info: +39 (0)546/711.13 – 710.44

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There are so many places of interest around Ravenna that one or two days aren’t enough to see everything, but then of course, you can always come back again! The landscape surrounding Ravenna resembles the background of a Renaissance painting, with its round-topped hills dotted with lovely old villages. The plain, too, is full of beautiful and ancient towns and villages, while to escape from summer heat, check out the popular seaside resorts that line the coast and their long shady pine forest. Probably the best starting point for a virtual tour of the area around Ravenna is its highest part, the hills and low mountains on the border with Tuscany. Here the landscape is of impressive beauty all year round and medieval valleys cradle towns such as Brisighella, Casola Valsenio and Riolo Terme. Brisighella is one of those places that are hard not to fall in love with, not only because it is rare to find a medieval town that is so charming and well-preserved, but also for its lively atmosphere. Casola Valsenio is the Italian capital of lavender and other officinal herbs: as many as 400 kinds of plants are cultivated in the Herb Garden (Giardino delle Erbe). Riolo Terme, a popular spa resort, also features a wonderful castle, which is open to the public. Leaving the hills and going down towards the Via Emilia and the plain, the landscape changes. Here the small art towns stand out as indisputable local beauties. They are all worth a visit and each one has its own special feature: Bagnacavallo has a fabulous old town centre; Russi boasts a 2nd century AD Roman villa; the main sight in Lugo is the splendid Este Fortress (Rocca Estense) dating back to the Renaissance; and lastly, there is the 15th-century fortress that dominates Bagnara. As one travels towards the coast, the landscape changes again. Here the main feature is the immense pine forest stretching from Cervia to Ravenna, praised by Lord Byron. Cluster pines aren’t the only trees that grow here: the local flora also includes holm-oaks, willows, and wild orchids that add a touch of colour and whose sweet smell reaches the beach. The larger seaside resort near Ravenna is Cervia.


Should you grow tired of its broad, sandy beach, hire a bike or drive to the saltworks (saline) that are just out of town. It will be a memorable experience. The saltworks cover 827 hectares and are now a protected area, since their unique landscape of salty marshes have been unspoilt for 2500 years. Pink flamingoes and grey herons come here to nest. In the right season, you can see them from the Prato Rosa tower. Local salt-processing techniques date back to Etruscan times. Salt from Cervia is considered to be particularly “sweet” as it doesn’t contain bitter potassium salts. In the past, it was stored in the central Magazzini del Sale (salt storehouses) in the harbour area. The storehouses now host temporary exhibitions and the salt museum, where the star exhibit is a record-breaking salt crystal weighing almost 6 kg or over 13 pounds.

Lugo

Casola Valsenio

 INFO

Old villages of Brisighella, Casola Valsenio and Riolo Terme Associated Tourist Office Tel. +39 (0)546/746.27 IAT Tourist office, Riolo Terme Tel. +39 (0)546/710.44 iat.rioloterme@provincia.ra.it www.terredifaenza.it Castles and historical palaces of Este Romagna www.romagnadeste.it IAT Tourist office, Bagnacavallo Tel. +39 (0)545/280.898 turismobagnacavallo@provincia.ra.it Salt storehouse (Magazzini del Sale) in Cervia Tel. +39 (0)544/993.435 iatmilanomarittima@comunecervia.it www.comunecervia.it

Cervia

CURIOSITY FESTIVAL OF LOST FRUITS (FESTA DEI FRUTTI DIMENTICATI)

A festival to promote old local fruit varieties that are not usually found on today’s globalized market, such as pera volpina (“fox” pear), jujubes and medlars. Held in Casola Valsenio during the third weekend of October, it provides an occasion to visit the Herb garden (Giardino delle Erbe) along Lavender Road (Strada della Lavanda). Info: +39 (0)546/710.44 – 730.33

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MUSEUMS IN RAVENNA

MUSEO D’ARTE DELLA CITTA - PINACOTECA COMUNALE The Art Museum and Art Gallery are housed in an old monastery called Loggetta Lombardesca. They host several art exhibitions and interesting permanent collections of works dating from the 14th to the 18th century (the antique collection), from the early 19th to the mid-20th century (the modern collection) and from the mid-20th century to the present day (the contemporary collection). Loggetta Lombardesca - Via di Roma, 13 Tel. +39 (0)544/482.756, Fax +39 (0)544/212.092 www.museocitta.ra.it MUSEO NAZIONALE In the old Benedictine monastery of San Vitale, the Museo Nazionale contains several collections of decorative arts (textiles, ivory objects, weapons, small bronzes, ceramic icons and coins). It also has sections for Roman epigraphs, pre-historic and Roman relics, and 14th-century frescoes. Via Fiandrini Tel. +39 (0)544/312.41 Ravenna.museonaz@thesauron.com www.thesauron.com MUSEO DANTESCO The Dante Museum, next door to Dante’s monumental tomb, contains over 3,000 exhibits, including the wooden box where the poet’s bones were kept from 1677 to 1865. It also features a library of 20,000 books including precious manuscripts dating back to 1336. Via Dante Alighieri, 4 Tel. +39 (0)544/302.52 www.turismo.ravenna.it MUSA The Salt Museum is an educational centre focusing on the local ecosystem and salt production. Fondazione Cerviambiente Tel. +39 (0)544/719.21 – 979.299, Fax +39 (0)544/972.897 scuolamb@cerviambiente.it www.cerviambiente.it

CARDELLO The Cardello is a picturesque late 19th-century aristocratic villa standing in the middle of a wonderful park. It was home to the Italian writer Alfredo Oriani and still retains its original fin de siécle furniture. Via Cardello, 5 - Casola Valsenio Tel. +39 (0)546/731.35 ECOMUSEO DELLA CIVILTA’ PALUSTRE The Ethnographic museum of swamp civilizations is a folk museum and an educational centre illustrating traditional cultivation methods and craft techniques. One of these is the ancient local art of basket-making and wickerwork that used the reeds growing in the local marshes. Villanova di Bagnacavallo Ref. Maria Rosa Bagnari Tel. +39 (0)545/471.22 baranagani@racine.ra.it www.racine.ra.it/erbepalustri

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EVENTS IN RAVENNA RAVENNA FESTIVAL The Ravenna Festival includes concerts, opera, ballet, jazz, ethnic music, theatre shows and conferences. Stages are located in the most beautiful parts of Ravenna, such as Byzantine Basilicas, cloisters or converted factories. WHEN: June and July WHERE: theatres in town, scenic locations, and also abroad: Beirut, Jerusalem, Istanbul, New York... COST: ticket prices vary INFO: Tel. +39 (0)544/249.244 www.ravennafestival.org RAVENNA BELLA DI SERA This 10-year-old festival (the name means “Ravenna, lady of the night”) groups together all the events that liven up Ravenna during the summer: cinema, theatre, ballet, ethnic music, poetry readings, puppet shows. On Friday nights, there is a handicrafts market in the old town centre (6 pm-11 pm) and shops are open until late. WHEN: July and August WHERE: Ravenna – old town centre COST: some of the events have an admission charge INFO: Tel. +39 (0)544/354.04 www.turismo.ravenna.it MOSAICO DI NOTTE ( Mosaics by night ) Ravenna was the first Italian city to open its monuments at night. The finest works of Byzantine art can be visited until 11 pm every day; free guided tours on Tuesdays and Fridays. WHEN: late June to late August WHERE: Basilica of San Vitale, Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra and Domus del Triclinio COST: 5.50 euro (5 monuments) or 3.50 euro (only the 2 Domus) INFO: Tel. +39 (0)544/354.04 www.turismo.ravenna.it

FESTE MEDIOEVALI The medieval festival in Brisighella is one of the most important of its kind in Italy. It offers an original re-enactment of the sacred and everyday aspects of the Middle Ages by way of costume parades, shows, conferences, exhibitions and banquets. WHEN: June and July WHERE: Brisighella – old town centre COST: admission charge INFO: Brighella medioevale srl Tel. +39 (0)546/817.06, info@festemedioevali.org, www.festemedioevali.org CONTESA ESTENSE The “Este contest” is a spectacular costume event culminating in the Palio della Caveja. WHEN: May WHERE: Lugo – old town centre COST: free INFO: Urp Lugo Tel. +39 (0)545/384.44, lugopalio@contesaestense.it www.contesaestense.it FESTA DI SAN MICHELE A festival offering shows, guided tours, concerts, buskers, exhibitions, good food and wine, fine handicrafts. WHEN: September WHERE: Bagnacavallo – old town centre COST: free INFO: Iat Bagnacavallo Tel. +39 (0)545/280.898, turismobagnacavallo@r acine.ra.it www.romagnadeste.it

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Faventia Ars works

Faenza, the town of pottery and ceramics Thousands of people flock to Via Baccarini 19 every year. They go in through the wooden door and come out again a few hours later with a blissful look on their faces. It isn’t some kind of opium den, but one of the largest European ceramic collections: the M.I.C. or Museo Internazionale delle Ceramiche. Established in 1908 by Gaetano Ballardini and housed in an old monastery, the M.I.C. has wonderful rooms full of classical Greek, Roman and Etruscan ceramics, Renaissance majolica (schools from Faenza and also Italy and Europe), exotic pottery from Africa and the Far East, and wares from faraway lost cultures, such as pre-Colombian America. Ceramics, after all, is in the local DNA: the term faience comes from Faenza and was originally applied only to the ceramic-ware produced here. In the 14th century, Faenza was already famous for its artwork and has been ever since. The finest ceramic piece is the Coppa Bergantini, a cup dating back to the 16th century. It is finely decorated with typical patterns of the Renaissance and has been signed and dated by the maker. ART AND CULTURE The atmosphere of Faenza grows more intense in the winter, when the water in the monumental 17th-century Fontana dei Leoni turns to ice and the icicles fuse with the white marble of the fountain, while the fog envelops the Portici degli Orefici in Piazza della Libertà in a milky shroud. But Faenza is wonderful all year round. Most visitors come here to see the M.I.C. or the colourful Palio del Niballo. Then they discover the other treasures of the town. The heart of Faenza is the scenic ensemble of Piazza della Libertà and Piazza del Popolo, that look more like a single square, with two tiers of porticoes on 84

Piazza del Popolo

Palio del Niballo


FAENZA both sides. The most beautiful Renaissance palaces seem to have been concentrated here: the Palazzo del Podestà and the Town hall (Palazzo Municipale, once home to the local rulers, the Manfredi family) and the 15th-century Cathedral. The cathedral is one of the finest examples of the Renaissance in Romagna, with a half-finished marble facade and as many as 20 chapels in various styles, most of them dedicated to the several local saints. The most eye-catching building in Piazza del Popolo is the Torre dell’Orologio (clocktower) marking the intersection of the two main streets, once the cardus and decumanus of Roman Faventia (the Latin name that eventually evolved into Faenza). A recess on one of its sides holds a 17th-century statue of the Virgin, to which many locals nod respectfully when they pass by. All the other sights in Faenza are within walking distance from the main square. A few steps away you will find the medieval churches of San Bartolomeo, Santa Maria Maddalena - Commenda (holding a fresco painted in 1533) and Santa Maria Vecchia or ad Nives with a monumental octagonal belltower adorned with double and triple lancet windows (one could also climb up the stairs and be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the area). A short stroll around town will take you to the Teatro Masini (1780-1788), the 12th-century Palazzo Episcopale housing the Museo Diocesano (containing pictures and gold and silver sacred works of art), and the relaxing tree-lined viali just outside the old town centre.

 INFO Fontana dei Leoni

CURIOSITY FIERA DI SAN ROCCO (First Sunday of November) This is the oldest street fair in town and dates back to the 15th century. The streets around the church of San Rocco come alive with buskers, jugglers, fireeaters, exhibitions and cultural events, market stalls selling handicrafts, an exhibition of vintage cars and farm tractors, games and playgrounds for children. It’s an open-air show that attracts thousands of visitors.

IAT Tourist office, Faenza Tel./Fax +39 (0)546/252.31 prolocafaenza@racine.ra.it, www.prolocofaenza.it Cathedral Tel. +39 (0)546/664.510 Museo Internazionale delle Ceramiche Tel. +39 (0)546/697.311, Fax +39 (0)546/271.41 info@micfaenza.org, www.micfaenza.org Palazzo Milzetti Tel. +39 (0)546/264.93 Teatro Masini Tel. +39 (0)546/213.06 Palio del Niballo Tel. +39 (0)546/691.651

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HANDICRAFTS

“Julia Bela” ceramic plate

M.I.C. - interior

There is no need to say that the main craft in Faenza is ceramics. With products like plates, jugs, vases, mugs, tureens and albarelli (hand-painted majolica jars used by apothecaries and chemists since the Middle Ages), you have a wide choice of fine souvenirs that add a touch of elegance to any home. In and around Faenza there are over 60 potter’s workshops which were called orzelari in the 12th century, and later boccalari, vasari and finally vasai. Only certified skilled ceramists are allowed to mark certain products with one of the two official seals of quality (Ceramica artistica e tradizionale and Ceramica italiana di qualità), which guarantee that the ceramics are made following the traditional shapes, patterns, techniques and styles of this area. Even today, the masters of ceramics do not trust sales assistants, preferring to sell their production personally at their shops. Some of them even go the trouble of explaining how they make their products, or give pottery lessons. And of course, the merit of passing on the great tradition of Faenza ceramics is to be credited chiefly to the local schools and education centres like the Istituto d’Arte. Faenza, however, has other outstanding handicrafts apart from ceramics and majolica-ware, one example being hand-wrought iron objects.

Openwork ceramicware

CURIOSITY SUMMER MARKETS In June and July every Tuesday afternoon and into the evening, Piazza del Popolo and the nearby streets come alive with market stalls selling antiques, objets d’art and food specialities. In the same square every Thursday afternoon and evening in July, there’s another market for children, while the traditional market is held every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday morning.

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virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it


FAENZA FOOD AND WINE The generous hills and fields around Faenza yield top-quality fruit and vegetables, including grapes used to make the finest local wines. Among the main products are aromatic IGP shallots from Romagna, sweet and fragrant IGP peaches and nectarines from Romagna, kiwi fruit, persimmons and grapes grown following strict norms, especially so when they are certified organic. Spirits include local grappa and grape distillates and of course there are DOC wines like Sangiovese, Trebbiano, Pagadebit, Cagnina; DOC Colli di Faenza wines (certified from the hills around Faenza), both reds and whites like Sangiovese, Pinot and DOCG Albana white. On the subject of food specialities, the cuisine of Faenza is just as authentic and unsophisticated as in the rest of Romagna, with highlights such as hand-made pasta dishes and passatelli in brodo (Parmigiano and egg dumplings served in broth). For the real traditional thing, head for the picturesque inns, or osterie, in the streets behind Piazza del Popolo. Typical meat courses include mutton and lamb seasoned with with herbs and DOP extra-virgin olive oil from Brisighella. Another good choice is local salami and cheeses served with piadina romagnola (the unleavened flat bread of Romagna), which in this area is made thicker than in Rimini and along the coast.

Handmade pasta

IGP Shallot (scalogno) from Romagna

Museo Internazionale della Ceramica di Faenza

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Cappelletti

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MUSEUMS IN FAENZA

MUSEO INTERNAZIONALE DELLE CERAMICHE Established in 1908, this museum sports several ancient and modern collections from all over the globe, plus a special section dedicated to local faience. Viale Baccarini, 19 Tel. +39 (0)546/6973.11, Fax +39 (0)546/271.41 micfaenza@provincia.ra.it www.micfaenza.org

PINACOTECA COMUNALE First opened in 1797, this picture gallery is the oldest museum in town. It has an antique section containing works dating from the 13th to the 18th century, among which is a cross painted by the Master of the blue Crucifixes (1265), and a modern section including paintings and sculptures from the last two centuries. Via Santa Maria dell’Angelo, 1 Tel. +39 (0)546/660.799, Fax +39 (0)546/660.760 pinacoteca.faenza@faenza.provincia.ra.it

MUSEO CIVICO DELLE SCIENZE NATURALI This is one of the largest science museums in Romagna. It features substantial collections of insects, stuffed birds and fossils found in the local area. Via Medaglie d’Oro, 51 Tel./Fax +39 (0)546/662.425 (opens by appointment only)

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EVENTS IN FAENZA 100 KM DEL PASSATORE A 100-km-long marathon from Firenze to Faenza, named after the famous 19th-century highwayman called Il Passatore, the Robin Hood of Romagna. A music band and stalls selling local specialities await the runners at their arrival in Piazza del Popolo. WHEN: last weekend in May WHERE: Piazza del Popolo COST: free INFO: ProLoco Tel. +39 (0)546/252.31

MONDIALTORNIANTI Faenza is definitely the place for a potters’ world championship, where participants must prove their skill at the wheel. Works are judged both for their aesthetic merits and the complexity of the techniques involved. WHEN: the 1st Monday and Tuesday of July WHERE: Piazza Nenni (aka della Molinella) COST: free INFO: ProLoco Tel. +39 (0)546/252.31

MANIFESTAZIONI INTERNAZIONALI DELLA CERAMICA (international ceramics exhibitions and related events) A fair of works by master ceramists from Faenza, pottery-related events, international exhibitions at the M.I.C. WHEN: spring, summer and fall WHERE: Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Museo Internazionale delle Ceramiche COST: free (except admission to the M.I.C.) INFO: ProLoco Tel. +39 (0)546/252.31

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Forlì – Cesena, the feeling of Romagna

Pinacoteca Comunale

Only in Forlì does the mouth-watering smell of piadina (the typical local unleavened bread) wind its way between medieval abbeys, Renaissance palaces and lovely Baroque churches. This is the heart of Romagna, where the people are sincerely friendly and visitors are warmly welcomed. It is a generous land home to several renowned spa resorts. ART AND CULTURE The main sight in Forlì is the Basilica of San Mercuriale in the central square, Piazza Saffi. This Romanesque church, dedicated to the town’s first bishop, was built in the 1120s on the ruins of the Early Christian church of Santo Stefano. The portal is decorated with a beautiful pink marble lunette, from the early 13th century. The Basilica contains several works of art, such as the tomb of Barbara Manfredi, the first wife of Pino III Ordelaffi, one of the rulers of the town (1467-68); a few paintings by Malco Palmezzano (b. mid-15th century, d. 1539); the Cappella Ferri (1515) and the late 16th-century Cappella Mercuriali, also called Cappella di San Mercuriale. Next to the church is its square belltower, one of the symbols of Forlì, in a plain Romanesque style. It is about 72 metres (about 235 feet) tall, and is both elegant and solid. Vast Piazza Saffi is the hub around which all the town revolves and acts as the local meeting point, being the place of elegant cafés and Sunday strolls. It has some of the oldest and finest buildings in Forlì: the town hall, the Palazzo del Podestà and the Palazzo Alberini (dating back to the mid-15th and early 16th century respectively, both substantially reconstructed during fascism), the 18th-century Palazzo Ex Credito Romagnolo (formerly a bank) and the Palazzo delle Poste (the main post office, dating from 1931-32). Close to the square is the 90

Cloister of San Mercuriale

Chiostro Abbazia S.Mercuriale


FORLÌ- CESENA recently rebuilt Teatro Diego Fabbri, which, together with the Teatro Piccolo and Teatro Giovanni Testori, hosts leading performing arts companies every year. The importance of Forlì as a town of art is also witnessed by the precious works kept at the Pinacoteca Comunale (civic art gallery), including two small paintings by Fra Angelico, pictures by Guercino and a statue by Antonio Canova. Housed in the same building, the civic library (Biblioteca Comunale “Aurelio Saffi”) contains the Fondo Piancastelli, a bequest of 53,000 volumes, 173,000 documents about Romagna and other 50,000 about the Risorgimento in Romagna (the 19th-century republican movement for the unification of Italy), 8,000 autographs, several prints, drawings and ceramics, an outstanding painting collection and a most valuable coin collection. Those interested in the architecture and town planning of the fascist period will probably find Forlì the most interesting town in Italy; there are even dedicated tourist itineraries. A definitely more romantic sight is Via Gaddi, a gaslit and cobbled alleyway that seems to come directly from the 19th century.

 INFO

Piazza Saffi

CURIOSITY

IAT Tourist office, Forlì Tel. +39 (0)543/712.435 www.turismoforlivese.it, Pinacoteca Comunale Tel. +39 (0)543/712.606 -09 www.comune.forli.fo.it/cultura/sdmuseo.asp Teatro Diego Fabbri Tel. +39 (0)543/712.164 www.comune.forli.fo.it/cultura/fabbri.aspp

MADONNA DEL FUOCO On the eve of the 5th of February, in 1428, a miracle happened in Forlì. A house burned down in a fire, but a wooden icon of the Virgin and child miraculously survived. Today the “Virgin of the Fire” (Madonna del Fuoco), whose image is still kept at the Cathedral, is one of the patron saints of Forlì. During her festival, celebrated on the 4th of February, the old town centre becomes crowded with market stalls.

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HANDICRAFTS

Fine ceramics

Choosing a souvenir to take back home is often a difficult task, but set foot in one of the fine ceramics shops in Forlì, Cesena, Modigliana, Portico di Romagna or Gambettola and you’ll have no problem. The local ceramic or majolica dishes with Renaissance patterns are simply irresistible, and often production is limited, making them more valuable. Every craftsperson has his or her own style and “secrets” which are handed down from generation to generation. The most highly prized mementos of this area, however, are probably the traditional rust-printed cloths that are so common in the typical restaurants of Romagna. Some workshops let visitors in to show them the whole production process, sometimes even the coldironing of the cloths with giant mangles. Other well-rooted crafts are carpentry and the restoration of wood objects and furniture.

The typical rust prints of Romagna

Pot maker

CURIOSITY CATERINA SFORZA Caterina Sforza (1463-1509) was a brave and charismatic woman, and the main character of several local legends. One of them (without any historical basis) has it that she chose to sacrifice her children to save her domain. The indomitable spirit of Caterina, once the bitter enemy of Cesare Borgia, still lingers in her fortress in Forlì, the Rocca di Ravaldino.

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Virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it


FORLÌ - CESENA FOOD AND WINE Whether in the morning, afternoon or night, a steaming piadina (the flat, unleavened bread of Romagna) is a taste sensation. Check it out in one of the many stalls dotted along the local roads – the more crowded it is, the better the piadina. Although the basic ingredients are the same, there are several varieties of piadina, all of which are delicious with any kind of filling. For instance, try it with one of the typical soft white cheeses, such as the delicate squacquerone, ricotta or raviggiolo, or the renowned formaggio di fossa from Sogliano al Rubicone, which has a stronger flavour. Formaggio di fossa (literally, “cave cheese”) is matured in dark underground caves, following a method derived from the 15th century. The result of this process is what the local poet Tonino Guerra called “sheep’s milk cheese with a wild undertone”. Piadina is also perfect with typical salami like ciccioli (pork crackling) and spiced salami from Mercato Saraceno. The land around Forlì and Cesena also yields fine fruit and vegetables such as IGP peaches from Romagna, cherries (from Longiano, Castrocaro, Civitella di Romagna), truffles and mushrooms from the Apennines. Excellent extravirgin olive oil is produced in the surrounding hills. And last but not least are the abundance of DOC wines: from DOCG Albana di Romagna to the king of local reds, Sangiovese, followed by Trebbiano, Pagadebit, and sweet Cagnina.

Formaggio di Fossa

Piadina Romagnola

Peaches from Romagna

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SIGHTSEEING

in and around Forlì and Cesena

CITIES OF ART • Forlì: Abbey of San Mercuriale, Church of the Carmine, Church of Santa Maria dei Servi (also called San Pellegrino), Cathedral, Oratory of San Sebastiano, Palazzo Gaddi, Palazzo del Municipio (town hall), Pinacoteca (art gallery), Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie (also called di Fornò) • Cesena: Basilica of Madonna del Monte, Biblioteca Malatestiana, Church of San Domenico, Capuchin Monastery, Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista, Palazzo del Ridotto, Rocca Malatestiana

SPA RESORTS • Terme di Bagno di Romagna, Terme di Castrocaro, Terme di Fratta

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PARKS • Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona e Campigna

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WILDLIFE RESERVES • Riserva Naturale Orientata Bosco di Scardavilla

CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES • Home of Mussolini (Predappio); the castles (castello) of Castrocaro, Dovadola, Meldola, Corzano (Bagno di Romagna); the fortresses (rocca) of Longiano and Predappio Alta; Rocca di Ravaldino (Forlì); Villa Saffi (Forlì/San Varano); Villa Torlonia (S. Mauro); Rocca delle Caminate (between Predappio and Meldola); Pascoli’s Home (San Mauro Pascoli), Casa Moretti (Cesenatico) GOLF CLUBS • Associazione Golf Forlì-Cesena “I Fiordalisi” (9 holes + other 9 under construction - Carpena), Golf Club Cesenatico (4 holes)

THEATRES • Teatro Bonci (Cesena), Teatro Petrella (Longiano), Teatro Comunale (Cesenatico), Teatro Dragoni (Meldola), Teatro Verdi (Forlimpopoli), Teatro Diego Fabbri (Forlì)

WINE-PRODUCING TOWNS • Bertinoro, Longiano, Predappio

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) • Food and wine trail of the hills around Forlì and Cesena (Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori dei Colli di Forlì e Cesena)

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Forlì – Cesena, the feeling of Romagna Around Forlì and Cesena Cesenatico

S. Mauro Pascoli

Biblioteca Malatestiana

CURIOSITY ON THE TRAIL OF GNOMES Yes, some people say they have really seen them! Apparently they live in the woods surrounding Bagno di Romagna. And believe it or not, there is a path that leads from the old town centre of Bagno into the realm of gnomes: tiny bridges, signs with drawings and fairytales, stone sculptures, animal shapes and wooden huts are scattered along the way. Admission free all day long, all year round. Info: IAT Bagno di Romagna Tel. +39 (0)543/911.046

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The area around Forlì is perfect for a driving tour. It stretches from the coast inland to the roundtopped foothills dotted with art and wine-producing towns, then further up to the Apennines and the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi on the border between Romagna and Tuscany. But however varied the landscape, whether on a trendy beach or on the top of a mystical mountain, you’ll always find the people of Romagna friendly and fun-loving. The most popular seaside resort of the area around Forlì and Cesena is Cesenatico, with its floating Museo della Marineria (Maritime museum) in the canal harbour designed by Leonardo da Vinci. A few miles away you will find San Mauro Pascoli, the birthplace of the famous Italian poet Giovanni Pascoli. His home (declared a national monument in 1924) is a small but interesting museum and contains original 19th-century furnishings. The setting of Pascoli’s popular La Cavallina Storna poem is just outside town in Villa Torlonia, where the poet’s father (who worked as a bailiff for the Torlonia landowners) was killed under mysterious circumstances during the night of the 10th of August, 1867. Leaving the coast for the hills, you will find Cesena, where every stone tells the story of the Malatesta, the local rulers. First up is the Rocca Malatestiana (Malatesta fortress) which dominates the town from the top of a low hill (climb it for a breathtaking view of the valley below). Another legacy of the Malatesta clan is the Biblioteca Malatestiana (1447), a library holding 340 precious illuminated manuscripts housed in a hall with a nave and two aisles. Visitors are allowed in groups of 25 or less in order to preserve a micro-climate that hasn’t been changed in the last 600 years, not even affected by candles or electric light. Back into the open air, head for Piazza del Popolo, in the middle of which stands a magnificent fountain built in white stone by Masini. Cesena is also a lively town with an active cultural scene, and shows at the Teatro Bonci are often sold out, so book in advance! One of the towns along the Via Emilia between Forlì and Cesena is Forlimpopoli, home to the father


of Italian cuisine, Pellegrino Artusi. Its fortress houses the Museo Archeologico “Tobia Aldini”, which contains as many as 10,000 relics going back to prehistory, the Roman era and the Middle Ages. Another archaeological museum, this time internationally renowned, is that of Sarsina in the Savio valley, the native town of the Latin comedy writer Plautus. Several Roman gravestones and relics have been found in the nearby necropolis, together with large mosaics (such as the beautiful Triumph of Dionysus) and the massive Mausoleum of Rufus. A few miles from Sarsina and located inside a national park, Bagno di Romagna features several state-of-the-art spa resorts and, in Ridracoli, the new Ecomuseo Idro, a museum focusing on water and its uses. More romantic sights include several medieval towns snuggled on gentle slopes, such as Longiano with its castle and old theatre “Petrella”, Predappio with its interesting Museo Urbano (town museum), and Castrocaro Terme/Terra del Sole, a spa resort dominated by an imposing medieval stronghold.

Forlimpopoli

Bagno di Romagna

 INFO

IAT Tourist office, Cesenatico Tel. +39 (0)547/673.287, Fax +39 (0)547/673.288 info@cesenaticoturismo.com IAT Tourist office, San Mauro Pascoli San Mauro Mare office: toll-free number (Italy only) 800.580.920 Tel. +39 (0)541/346.392 , Fax +39 (0)541/341.378 info@sanmauromare.net IAT Tourist office, Cesena Tel. +39 (0)547/356.327, Fax +39 (0)547/356.329 info@comune.cesena.fc.it IAT Tourist office, Forlimpopoli Tel. +39 (0)543/749.250, Fax +39 (0)543/749.214 turismo@comune.forlimpopoli.fc.it Sarsina Town Hall Tel. +39 (0)547/949.01, Fax +39 (0)547/953.84 info@comune.sarsina.fc.it IAT Tourist office, Bagno di Romagna Tel. +39 (0)543/911.046, Fax +39 (0)543/911.026 iat.bagno@comunic.it IAT Tourist office, Longiano Tel. +39 (0)547/665.484, Fax +39 (0)547/665.860 cultura@longiano.info IAT Tourist office, Castrocaro Terme Tel. +39 (0)543/767.162, Fax +39 (0)543/769.326 iat@comune.castrocarotermeeterradelsole.fc.it Tourist office of the Province of Forlì-Cesena turismo@provincia.forli-cesena.it www. provincia.forli-cesena.it/turismo

Castrocaro Terme

CURIOSITY POPULAR RELIGION Religion and superstition come together in century-old cults of “healing” saints, each curing a different illness. To give only a couple of examples, Saint Vicinius, who is venerated in Sarsina, provides protection against obsessions and mental illnesses. He is characterized by an iron collar. In the Basilica of Sant’Ellero in Galeata there is a hole in the saint’s cell: just rest your head in the hole for instant relief from various ailments.

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MUSEUMS IN FORLÌ-CESENA

PINACOTECA The art gallery contains works from the 13th century to our time, including two paintings by Fra Angelico, several Cignanis and a wonderful Hebe sculpted by Antonio Canova. Corso Repubblica, 72 Tel. +39 (0)543/712.606, Fax +39 (0)543/712.618 servizio.pinacoteca.musei@comune.forli.fc.it www.comune.forli.fc.it/cultura/sdmuseo.asp MUSEO ROMAGNOLO DEL TEATRO This theatre museum contains instruments made by renowned lute-makers from Romagna, playbills, music scores, and several relics donated by the famous tenor Angelo Masini and the grand soprano Maria Farneti, both from Forlì. Corso Garibaldi, 96 Tel. +39 (0)543/211.09 - 712.606, Fax +39 (0)543/712.618 servizio.pinacoteca.musei@comune.forli.fc.it www.comune.forli.fc.it/cultura/sdmuseo.asp

VILLA SAFFI The summer residence of the Saffi counts from Forlì became a centre of Mazzini’s Carboneria (the Italian first Republican movement). In 1867 it became home to two leaders of the Carbonari movement, Aurelio Saffi (1819-90) and his wife Giorgina (1827-1911). Via Firenze, 164 - San Varano (FC) Tel. +39 (0)543/712.606, Fax +39 (0)543/712.618 servizio.pinacoteca.musei@comune.forli.fc.it www.comune.forli.fc.it/cultura/sdmuseo.asp BIBLIOTECA MALATESTIANA This is the finest and best-preserved Italian library of classical and monastic studies. Its charming 15th-century architecture and furniture are in perfect condition, as are the 340 manuscripts in its collection. Piazza Bufalini, 1 - Cesena Tel. +39 (0)547/610.892, Fax +39 (0)547/212.37 malatestiana@sbn.provincia.ra.it www.malatestiana.it

GALLERIA D’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA VERO STOPPIONI This gallery contains works collected through the Premio Campigna award over the last 40 years. It offers an overview of contemporary art from Realism to New Figuration, including the genius of Mattia Moreni. Viale Roma, 5/a - Santa Sofia Tel. +39 (0)543/974.551 (Culture Office), Fax +39 (0)543/970.345 eneidi.v@comune.santa-sofi a.fo.it www.comune.santa-sofia.fo.it

MUSEO CIVICO MAMBRINI DI GALEATA This civic museum, housed in the Renaissance Minorite monastery of Pianetto, is arranged into a historical-artistic section and an archaeological one. Visitors are taken back in time with the help of multimedia facilities. Tel. +39 (0)543/975.424 (Culture office), Fax +39 (0)543/981.021 museomambrini@libero.it

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EVENTS IN FORLÌ-CESENA BABILONIA Whether you are looking for a clock from the 1920s or a cupboard from the 1960s, you will find it at this busy fair of antiques, modern antiques and “future antiques”. WHEN: first half of February WHERE: Fiera (exhibition centre) in Forlì COST: ticket prices vary INFO: Tel. +39 (0)543/793.511 staff@fieraforli.it www.fieraforli.it OLD TIME SHOW One of the few exhibitions devoted to old-time cars and motorbikes, displaying shiny models and unique items. WHEN: second half of February WHERE: Fiera (exhibition centre) in Forlì COST: ticket prices vary INFO: Tel. +39 (0)543/793.511 staff@fieraforli.it www.fieraforli.it

FESTIVAL OF THE “MADONNA DEL FUOCO” On the festival of the patron saint, the old town centre of Forlì comes alive with market stalls, many of which selling the typical sweet of the day, called piadina della Madonna del Fuoco. It is a plain egg-shaped cake with raisin and aniseed. WHEN: 4th of February WHERE: Forlì – Old town centre COST: free INFO: Comune di Forlì Tel. +39 (0)543/712.201, Consorzio Promomercato Tel. +39 (0)543/277.79 PALIO OF SANTA REPARATA AND OF ROMAGNA-TUSCANY The Medici citadel (Cittadella Medicea) in Terra del Sole goes back to the glory days of the Renaissance with themed events. WHEN: late August, early September WHERE: Medici citadel (Cittadella medicea) - Terra del Sole COST: admission charge INFO: Pro Loco Tourist office Tel. +39 (0)543/766.766 Fax +39 (0)543/766.766 Ente Palio Tel. +39335/753.260 PLAUTUS FESTIVAL – SUMMER CLASSICAL SHOWS A prestigious season of classical and modern comedies interpreted by leading theatre companies. WHEN: From 15/07/2005 to 15/08/2005 WHERE: Arena Plautina in Calbano COST: admission charge INFO: Comune di Sarsina Tel. +39 (0)547/949.01 - Fax +39 (0)547/953.84 www.comune.sarsina.fo.it, info@comune.sarsina.fo.it cultura@comune.sarsina.fo.it I SUONI DEL TEMPO– the sounds of time A season of concerts by world-renowned musicians against the splendid background of the Rocca Malatestiana. WHEN: From 01/07/2005 to 31/07/2005 WHERE: Fortress in Cesena, Cloister of San Francesco COST: ticket prices vary INFO: Emilia Romagna Teatro Fondazione Tel. +39 (0)547 355724, Fax +39 (0)547/355.720 Tourist office Tel. +39 (0)547/356.327, Fax +39 (0)547/356.329 www.comune.cesena.fc.it iat@comune.cesena.fc.it

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Rimini, the land of hospitality Everybody knows Rimini as a “good time place” – a lively, sunny seaside resort (probably the most popular one in Europe) with a touch of charm. It’s famous for its 15 km long (nearly 9.5 miles) sandy beaches which offer 230 lidos. These are organized like tourist villages and every year provide novelties for guests. There are also over 1,000 hotels, ranging from the fairytale Grand Hotel to small familyrun B&Bs and 11 theme parks. Tourists also flock here because Rimini is a warm, welcoming town, the Italian champion for the culture of hospitality. But deep inside, Rimini is still Roman Ariminum, an art town with a history of over 22 centuries. Within walking distance from the restaurants on the beach and the “street bars” in front of which people dance all night, you will find absolutely fascinating art masterpieces. ART AND CULTURE When the last sunrays tinge the town with iridescent light, some of the corners of Rimini become stunningly beautiful. The oldest part of the town centre, the maze of narrow alleyways winding around the old fish market (pescheria) is full of small cafés offering candlelight aperitifs and at sunset takes on a dreamy atmosphere. But wandering about the old town centre is fun at any time of the day. The squares are crowded with café tables, bookshops and crafts shops, and Roman and Renaissance monuments peep from between porticoes and alleyways. If time is not an issue, then just keep strolling around, following your sixth sense or... your nose (the smell of piadina and grilled fish is irresistible). Otherwise, you can methodically start from the beginning – Roman Rimini (well, almost the beginning: the town was founded much earlier). The first sight to see is the Augustan Arch (Arco 100

Murals with scenes of Fellini’s films

Castel Sismondo

Augustan Arch


RIMINI di Augusto), strategically located at the end of Via Flaminia. Built by emperor Augustus in 27 BC, it is the oldest surviving Roman bridge. Ten minutes’ walk away, you will find the two splendid central squares, Piazza Tre Martiri and Piazza Cavour, and two gems of Renaissance Rimini. The first is the Tempio Malatestiano, or Malatesta Temple (1449), with its dazzling, almost glow-in-the-dark white facade designed by Leon Battista Alberti. The Temple was meant to be a grand mausoleum for Sigismondo Malatesta and his young lover and wife-to-be, but unfortunately he fell into disrepute and the Temple was never completed. However, it holds several absolutely beautiful works by artists such as Giotto or Piero della Francesca. The second symbol of Renaissance Rimini is the fairytale Castel Sismondo. This tangible proof of the power of the Malatesta dynasty has been skilfully restored and now hosts art exhibitions. The final stop of this short tour is Tiberius’ Bridge (Ponte di Tiberio), so well-preserved that it still bears the weight of busy traffic after two thousand years and two World Wars! If you still have some time, the town museum (Museo della Città) is also worth a visit. Even those who aren’t particularly keen on art history will appreciate the sheer beauty of the works by Giovanni Bellini and Ghirlandaio or the 17th-century paintings by Cagnacci and Guercino. This is not to mention the archaeological section, which holds several relics found in Rimini and dating back to the Roman empire.

Tempio Malatestiano

CURIOSITY THE “MOVIDA” IN RIMINI

If you’ve just arrived in Rimini and you don’t know anybody here yet, spend an evening in the picturesque part of town surrounding the old fish market (Vecchia Pescheria) and in Piazzetta delle Poveracce, just off Piazza Cavour. This is the heart of the local “movida”: here you will find several osterie (inns), wine bars and trendy cafés offering aperitifs, light snacks and live music. If you’re more of a culture fan and understand Italian, head for the Libreria Riminese, which during the summer is open until late at night and organizes public readings of literature.

 INFO

Castel Sismondo Tel. +39 (0)541/291.92 www.fondcarim.it Museo della Città Tel. +39 (0)541/214.82 www.comune.rimini.it/musei/citta/index.htm IAT Tourist office, Rimini Tel. +39 (0)541/569.02 www.riminiturismo.it

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HANDICRAFTS

Terra cotta

Stamp for rust-printed cloth

The typical souvenir of Rimini and Romagna in general is a real rust-printed cloth. The tradition of this handicraft is age-old, and every family in Romagna owns at least one tablecloth or a few tea towels or dish cloths decorated with rust-coloured vine leaves and grapes. Today, skillful craftsmen and craftswomen still transform heavy cotton and linen cloths into works of art. Some of them open their workshops to the public, so that everybody can see how they work. Firstly, the colours (rust brown, green or blue) are obtained from a rustbased mixture, then the patterns are cold-printed using a mangle or a press onto tablecloths, curtains, blankets or pillowcases. Another local traditional handicraft is fine ceramics and hand-painted majolica-ware such as dishes, trays, small jugs, icons and many others. Every craftsperson has developed his or her own style through long years of experience. It might be worth it to look for their shops and rummage through their shelves. Last but not least, Rimini and its foothills are home to a few blacksmiths who produce wrought iron masterpieces, also on request. This is the perfect choice if you’re looking for a really personalized memento.

Detail of a rust-printed cloth

CURIOSITY THE GRAND HOTEL: SLEEPING IN A MONUMENT The Art Nouveau Grand Hotel in Rimini (1908) has been the dream of many a generation. It features in Fellini’s Amarcord, which granted it a large portion of its international fame; Fellini himself lived here, in suite no. 315/315 bis. In 2004 it was chosen as the symbol of Rimini by the Italian National Trust Fund (FAI).

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Virtual tour: www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it


RIMINI FOOD AND WINE In Rimini the food does not only satisfy taste, but also smell. The main aromas are that of piadina (the typical unleavened bread of Romagna) cooked on a flat terracotta pan (testo), and that of grilled fish from the Adriatic sea (mainly pesce azzurro: anchovies, sardines, and mackerel). As Rimini is a harbour town, shellfish is also a constant element of the local cuisine, ranging from Venus clams (if you want the real local product, which might be smaller but is definitely tastier, ask for poveracce or purazze – the words for “clams” in the local dialect), mussels and razor-shells. Try them plain (stir-fried with oil and parsley), or with home-made pasta rolled by hand with a rolling pin. Oil is an important ingredient to virtually all dishes: for extra taste, choose DOP extravirgin oil from the local hills (colli di Romagna). Among meat dishes, pork and mutton are the main staples, while local cheeses such as formaggio di fossa and squacquerone are excellent. Vegetarians can make their vegetables more substantial by adding a few drop of saba, a thick sauce obtained from condensed wine must. On the topic of wine, Sangiovese strong red is one the symbols of Romagna. The main DOC labels are Colli di Rimini and Vini di Romagna, which guarantee the quality of local wines. One of the Colli di Rimini DOC red wines is the newly created “Castel Sismondo”, made from 70% Sangiovese grapes, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and 10% Montepulciano grapes.

Fish from the Adriatic sea

Fishermen

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SIGHTSEEING

in and around Rimini

CITIES OF ART • Rimini: Arco di Augusto, Castel Sismondo, Museo della Città, Ponte di Tiberio, Tempio Malatestiano

SPA RESORTS • Terme di Riccione, Terme di Rimini

WILDLIFE RESERVES • Riserva Naturale Orientata di Onferno

CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES • Castle of Montebello, Palazzo Viviani in Montegridolfo, Rocca Malatestiana (Malatesta fortress) in Montefiore, Rocca Malatestiana in Verucchio, Rocca Malatestiana in Santarcangelo

GOLF CLUBS • Rimini Golf Club (18 holes) in Villa Verucchio, Riviera Golf Resort (9 holes) in San Giovanni in Marignano

MOTORS • Santamonica International Racetrack (Misano Adriatico), Museo Nazionale del Motociclo (National motorcycle museum)

WINE-PRODUCING TOWNS • San Clemente, San Giovanni in Marignano, Santarcangelo di Romagna, Verucchio

FOOD AND WINE TRAILS (STRADA DEI VINI E DEI SAPORI) • Food and wine trail of the hills around Rimini (Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori dei Colli di Rimini)

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Rimini, the land of hospitality Around Rimini Cattolica

Saludecio

San Giovanni in Marignano

CURIOSITY OLD MANGLE Right in the middle of Santarcangelo di Romagna there is an old craftsman’s shop owned by the Marchi family, who still print rust-decorated cloths following the traditional method. They keep a mangle dating from the 17th century, the oldest press of its kind still working in Italy. Info: Tel. +39(0)541/626.018

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During the morning, the best place to be is on a beach in Riccione or Cattolica. Afternoons are perfect for a driving or cycling tour of the castles in the foothills, such as Verucchio, Torriana, or Montebello. The evening adds charm to the alleyways and vaults of the local medieval towns with a view over the sea, for instance Montefiore Conca, Mondaino, or Santarcangelo. Varied as the landscape around Rimini may be, ranging from sandy beaches to beautiful hills topped by picturesque art towns, it shares the same history: it was the heart of the fiefdom of the Malatesta family. Let’s start with Cattolica: its beaches are crowded with tourists coming from all over Europe, but few of them know that it also has an important museum, the Museo della Regina, appreciated by children as well as adults. It contains an archaeological section and a maritime collection including several scale models, from tiny reproductions to huge maquettes representing all kinds of vessels, from Renaissance barges to Sigismondo Malatesta’s cog, down to the motor trawlers of our time. Cattolica is also home to one of the few theatres built after World War II: it’s the Teatro della Regina on central Piazza della Repubblica (the local meeting point), designed by Pierluigi Cervellati. The most popular spot in Riccione is the legendary Viale Ceccarini. A few steps away there is the Museo del Territorio (admission free, closed Sun). It is an archaeological museum holding interesting relics excavated from Riccione and its surroundings and dating from prehistory to the Roman era. Speaking of museums, must-sees are the Museo di Saludecio e del Beato Amato (in Saludecio) and the Museo della Civiltà Contadina in Valliano, part of the municipality of Montescudo. Saludecio is about 15 km or 9,3 miles inland from Cattolica. In the 13th century, this small village of aristocratic palaces and one-storey houses was home to the Blessed Amato Ronconi, venerated like a saint. The sanctuary and the museum of religious art (Museo d’arte sacra) dedicated to him are housed in the local parish church, which looks more like a cathedral given its size and artistic content. Montescudo is 18 km (or about 11 miles) from Rimini,


strategically situated over the Valconca valley. This village, whose origins date back to the time of the Celts and Etruscans, features a medieval tower and a well-arranged collection of folk traditions. Just outside Cattolica you will find San Giovanni in Marignano, locally known as the place where witches would meet on their sabbath nights. Its Teatro Comunale Massari is a small but elegant 19th-century theatre with lovely decorations, which hosts several plays and shows. It is impossible to give a full list of the castles, fortresses and manors around Rimini. Some of them are haunted by ghosts, like that of Azzurrina in Montebello. Others, such as the castle of Mondaino, are full of conduits. Must-sees are the two imposing fortresses built by the Malatesta family in Montefiore Conca and Verucchio. The first holds extraordinary frescoes, while the second is perched on a rock spur, which grants a breathtaking view over the valley below and down to the sea.

Montefiore Conca

Mondaino

 INFO

Museo della Regina Tel. +39 (0)541/831.464, Fax +39 (0)541/967.803 www.cattolica.net/retecivica/italiano/cultura Museo del Territorio Tel. +39 (0)541/600.113, Fax +39 (0)541/698.182 info@comune.riccione.rn.it Museo di Saludecio e del Beato Amato Tel. +39 (0)541/982.100 – +39 (0)541/981.615 (Keeper) Museo della Civiltà Contadina Tel. +39 (0)541/984.273, Fax +39 (0)541/984.455 info@comune.montescudo.rn.it, www.comune.montescudo.rn.it Teatro Comunale Massari Tel. +39 (0)541/957.656, Fax +39 (0)541/957.908 info@fratelliditaglia.com, www.fratelliditaglia.com Teatro della Regina Tel. +39 (0)541/833.528 – 968.214, Fax +39 (0)541/958.137 teatro@cattolica.net, www.cattolica.net Rocca Malatestiana Tel. +39 (0)541/980.035 (Town Hall), Fax +39 (0)541/980.206 montefiore@libero.it Rocca Malatestiana Tel. +39 (0)541/670.552 – 670.222, Fax +39 (0)541/673.266 iat.verucchio@iper.net, www.verucchio.net/malatesta.htm

Santarcangelo

CURIOSITY RESTORATION OF ANTIQUE CARRIAGES The only Italian restorer of antique carriages lives and work in the scenic village of Montefiore Conca, 18 km or about 11 miles from Riccione. His workshop can be found at Via Bottrigo, 107 in Falda, just outside town. Info: Tel. +39 (0)541/988.830

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MUSEUMS IN RIMINI

MUSEO DELLA CITTÀ In an 18th-century Jesuit college, the museum outlines the history of Rimini from its geological formation to the present. It contains over 1500 exhibits displayed in more than 40 rooms, ranging from mosaics to frescoes, from ceramics to bronzes, from epigraphs to paintings and coins. Via Tonini, 1 Tel. +39 (0)541/214.82 musei@comune.rimini.it www.comune.rimini.it/cultura/musei/musei_pagina.htm MUSEO FELLINI The museum dedicated to the world-famous film director Federico Fellini takes up the first floor of his family house. It hosts temporary exhibitions of drawings, costumes, props, sketches, pictures, objects that belonged to the Maestro and his wife and cult actress, Giulietta Masina. Via Clementini, 2 Tel. +39 (0)541/500.85 – 503.03 museo@federicofellini.it www.federicofellini.it MUSEO DELLE CULTURE EXTRAEUROPEE “DINZ RIALTO” The “Dinz Rialto” museum of non-European cultures will soon be reopened to the public after moving to a new building. It contains a rich and unusual ethnological collection including materials from Africa, Australia and America. Villa Alvarado Covignano di Rimini

MUSEO CIVICO ARCHEOLOGICO VILLANOVIANO Inside an ancient and beautiful Augustine monastery and famous all over Europe, this archaeological museum contains precious evidence for the local Etruscan Villanovan civilization, including a wooden throne decorated with human figures. Via S. Agostino, 14 - Verucchio Tel. +39 (0)541/670.280 - +39 (0)541/670.222, Fax +39 (0)541/673.266 iat.verucchio@iper.net t www.verucchio.net/museo.htm MUSEO ETNOGRAFICO USI E COSTUMI DELLE GENTE DI ROMAGNA This is one of Italy’s largest folk museums. It is accurately arranged into several sections which illustrate the local traditions related to farming and the cultivation of wheat, cloth-printing, popular clothing, iron, popular crafts, wine, lute-making, puppet theatre... Via Montevecchi, 41 – Santarcangelo di Romagna Tel. +39 (0)541/624.703, Fax +39 (0)541/622.074 met@metweb.org www.metweb.org MUSEO PALEONTOLOGICO The paleonthological museum is housed in the fortress of Mondaino and contains fossils excavated from the surrounding area, some of them particularly old (up to 4 milion years!) but still clearly visible thanks to the characteristics of the local rock. Piazza Maggiore, 1 – Mondaino Tel. +39 (0)541/981.674, Fax +39 (0)541/988.124 infomondaino@mondaino.com www.mondaino.com

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EVENTS IN RIMINI SAGRA MUSICALE MALATESTIANA The oldest and most prestigious musical event in and around Rimini. In the last 55 years, it has been stage to the world’s greatest musicians. WHEN: late August throughout September WHERE: Auditorium Palacongressi COST: admission charge INFO: Tel. +39 (0)541/513.51

MEETING PER L’AMICIZIA FRA I POPOLI The Rimini meeting for friendship among peoples, established in 1980, attracts over 600 thousand participants every year. It offers conferences, cultural events, music and shows. WHEN: late August WHERE: Nuovo Quartiere Fieristico (new exhibition centre) COST: free except shows INFO: Tel. +39 (0)541/783.100 www.meetingrimini.org FESTIVAL DEL FITNESS The Fitness Festival in Rimini is the leading world event in the field of sport and fitness, attracting 450 thousand visitors and participants every year. WHEN: late May and early June WHERE: Nuovo Quartiere Fieristico (new exhibition centre) COST: admission charge INFO: Tel +39 (0)75/591.081 www.fitnessfestival.com

SANTARCANGELO DEI TEATRI Santarcangelo dei Teatri is an international festival of contemporary theatre which stages and promotes theatre and ballet shows, with a particular focus on interdisciplinary events and cross-cultural cooperation. WHEN: July WHERE: Santarcangelo di Romagna COST: ticket prices vary INFO: Tel. +39 (0)541/626.185, Fax +39 (0)541/620.560 info@santarcangelofestival.com www.santarcangelofestival.com VERUCCHIO FESTIVAL A festival in the new trends on the Italian and international music scene. WHEN: July WHERE: Verucchio COST: ticket prices vary INFO: Tel. +39 (0)541/670.222 www.verucchio.net

FIERA INTERNAZIONALE DEL FRANCOBOLLO The international postage stamp exhibition, established almost fifty years ago, is the first event of the collector’s season. It is complemented by the increasingly popular “Europa Card Show”, the world’s only exhibition for cash card collectors. WHEN: late August and early September WHERE: Palazzo del Turismo, Riccione COST: data not available INFO: Tel. +39 (0)541/692.194 www.comune.riccione.rn.it

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Itineraries


HISTORICAL ITINERARIES

OUT OF THE LIGHT AND INTO DARKNESS: BYZANTIUM AND THE MIDDLE AGES The itinerary of emotions: temples of mysticism and culture The first stop on this mystical route is Bobbio, a town surrounded by the green valley of the Trebbia. Founded by the Irish monk Columbanus (614), during the early Middle Ages Bobbio was one of Europe’s most important monasteries. The museum inside the abbey contains Roman and early medieval relics including a beautiful ivory urn. Other sights in Bobbio are the ancient and eccentric Ponte Gobbo (“hunchback bridge”) and the Basilica of San Colombano with its mosaic floor and 11th-century wrought-iron screen. Following the Trebbia and then the Po towards Piacenza, you will find the village of Monticelli d’Ongina, clustered around the spectacular Rocca Pallavicino. In the manor, the Museo Etnografico illustrates the life and traditions of the river Po and features an aquarium with local species of fish, but the highlight of the town is the 15th-century collegiate church of San Lorenzo. Another religious symbol is the Cistercian monastery of Chiaravalle della Colomba in the valley of the Arda. It was founded in 1136 following the model of the abbey of Citeaux in Bourgogne, where the rule of poverty of Saint Bernard was practised. The itinerary ends with an archaeological pearl, Roman Veleia near Lugagnano Val d’Arda, where traces of the residential districts, a forum and a termarium (public bath) still remain. An antiquarium contains several items excavated from the site, opened in 1747. 112


Romanesque Modena There is a sort of invisible leitmotif running through all the Romanesque buildings in and around Modena, be they small country churches, abbeys or cathedrals. The archetypical model of them all and the starting point of this itinerary is the cathedral of Modena, a masterpiece of originality and monumentality that inspired several other buildings in its time. On the road to Carpi, stop at the Pieve (parish church) of San Giorgio in Ganaceto, whose apse still retains its Romanesque architecture and the Acquasantiera delle Sirene (1130), a holy water stoup attributed to a follower of the Maestro of the Metope. In Carpi, the Romanesque bits of the Pieve of Santa Maria in Castello, called “La Sagra”, are just one part of the massive reconstruction started by Matilda of Canossa in the 12th century. Another church which underwent substantial changes, but was originally Romanesque (as can be seen from its left-hand side) is the Pieve of Santa Maria della Neve in Quarantoli di Mirandola. The ambo (raised platform) and two telamones (man-shaped columns) were presumably carved by the workshop of Wiligelmus. Then there is Nonantola: founded in 752 by the Lombard king’s brother-in-law the abbot Anselmo (who a few years earlier had also founded the Romanesque Pieve of San Silvestro in Fanano), it was a well-known rest-stop in the Apennines along the Via Romea, the road between Emilia and Tuscany.

A half-day tour of Bologna It’s a pity to see Bologna in just half a day, but if you really cannot afford any longer, here are the absolute must-sees. First of all, a quick look around Piazza Maggiore and its medieval and Renaissance buildings: starting from the Basilica of San Petronio and turning clockwise you’ll see the Palazzo dei Notai, the Palazzo D’Accursio, the Palazzo del Podestà and the Palazzo dei Banchi. Each of them has its own story: for instance, the Palazzo Re Enzo facing Neptune’s fountain takes its name from its illustrious prisoner, the handsome fair-haired King Enzo, who was locked up here from 1249 until his death in 1272. He was very popular among the Bolognese ladies. If you look very hard at the Palazzo dei Banchi, you will realize that it is not a real building, but just a scenic facade shielding the alleyways behind it, which lead to the market in Via delle Pescherie. As you walk towards the two leaning towers, you’ll pass in front of the Gothic Palazzo della Mercanzia (1384), with terracottaand-marble mullioned windows and the coats of arms of the local medieval merchant guilds. Piazza Santo Stefano is one of the finest squares in Bologna. It slopes down to the Basilica di Santo Stefano, which is in fact a complex of seven churches, also called “Holy Jerusalem” or Jerusalem Bononiensis. Another popular church is that of San Domenico (1221), holding the tomb of Saint Dominic. 113


From the Etruscans to avant-garde architecture This itinerary will lead you from an Etruscan necropolis to an example of the most innovative contemporary architecture, located within a few miles of each other. It starts from Pontecchio Marconi, on the first foothills of the Apennines, and cuts through the valley of the Reno. The main attraction in Pontecchio is Villa Griffone (open by appointment only), the home and laboratory of Guglielmo Marconi, the inventor of the radio. Further south, Marzabotto holds several treasures: the Etruscan necropolis of Misa, the Museo Etrusco “Pompeo Aria” and a very active Peace School in the park of Monte Sole. Nearby Vergato offers two unexpected sights: the 14th-century Palazzo dei Capitani and a Modernist church designed by the famous Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. Riola, a suburb of Vergato, features the Rocchetta Mattei, an Art-Nouveau and somewhat Oriental-looking castle. Another historic place is Grizzana Morandi, which takes its name from the famous painter. Some of the places figuring in Morandi’s works have been recently restored, such as the Campiamo barns in Borgo Scola. For more mystical inspiration, check out the sanctuaries of Montovolo, the Madonna del Cigno in Camugnano (where you will also find the lovely church of Bargi) or the Madonna di Bocca di Rio in Castiglione dei Pepoli. During the summer, the blue lake of Suviana near Castiglione has an artificial beach for windsurfers.

The Abbey of Pomposa The 6th-century Abbey of Pomposa, not far from Codigoro, is the mystical highlight of the Po delta. Its great bell tower seems to appear out of thin air, surrounded by pink flamingos or herons during the warm season, or fading into the fog during the winter. In the Middle Ages, this Benedictine monastery was an obligatory stop along the pilgrim’s route to Rome and the sepulchre of Saint Peter. Today, it still stands as one of the finest examples of Romanesque and Byzantine art in Europe. It is a complex of several buildings: the Palazzo della Ragione, the porticoed and finely decorated church of Santa Maria Assunta, and the 48-metre (or 158 feet) tall bell tower. Among other wonders, the church holds a cycle of precious frescoes, including a grand Last Judgement, and its floor is decorated with mosaics from three different eras. Being located right in the middle of the Po delta, Pomposa is also the ideal starting point for trips into the Parco del Delta or the wildlife reserve of the Bosco della Mesola, home to the last deer of the Mesola.

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An itinerary of Early Christian and Byzantine monuments This itinerary takes us back to 410 AD, when the Visigoths raided Rome and captured the young Roman princess Galla Placidia, emperor Honorius’ sister. The old king of the Visigoths, Alaric I, made her his unofficial spouse. After Alaric’s death, Galla married his successor and brother-in-law, young and brave Ataulf. Today, the mausoleum of Galla Placidia is one of the finest monuments of Ravenna, as are the other seven local masterpieces of Early Christian art on UNESCO’s Heritage List. The Battistero Neoniano (Neonian Baptistery, 450 AD) has an octagonal Greek marble font and incredibly beautiful mosaics in Hellenic-Roman style. Another baptistery is the Battistero degli Ariani, which takes its name from the Arian heresy, the religion of the “barbarian” Germanic peoples. Only in Ravenna can a heretic baptistery stand beside an Early Christian church, nowhere else can one feel the spirit of the epochal transition from the end of the Roman empire to the Middle Ages. Only here could a blood-thirsty Ostrogoth king like Theodoric allow the construction of a private oratory for bishop Peter II, the chapel of Sant’Andrea. But Ravenna was also a Byzantine city, as witnessed by the churches of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Sant’Apollinare in Classe (with a mosaic depicting the saint in a flower-strewn meadow) and the Oriental-style Basilica of San Vitale, with the world-famous mosaics of empress Theodora and emperor Justinianus surrounded by their court.

HARMONY AND BEAUTY: ALONG THE ROADS OF THE RENAISSANCE Renaissance Piacenza Piacenza is a fairytale town, full of Renaissance palaces and Basilicas. The most fascinating church is the Sanctuary of Santa Maria di Campagna, with its superb frescoes, which fronts the square where in 1095 Pope Urban II announced the first crusade in history. Another example of religious architecture is San Sisto, a Benedictine convent founded in 874, where Margaret of Austria (1522-1586) was buried. The altarpiece is a copy of Raphael’s Sistine Madonna; in 1754 the monks sold off the original, painted specially for this church, to a king of Poland for 10,000 sequins. The Sistine Madonna is now the star exhibit of the Dresden Museum. Other sights include the church of San Sepolcro (1513) and the Palazzo Farnese (1559-1602) next to the scanty ruins of the 14th-century citadel of the Visconti, consisting of two towers and a few battlemented walls. Via Taverna has one of the highest concentrations of aristocratic palaces in town: the Palazzo Barattieri di San Pietro, the Palazzo Somaglia, the Palazzo Scotti da Fombio and the 18th-century Palazzo Scotti di Castelbosco across the street. Particularly fraught with history is the 15thcentury Palazzo Landi between Via Giordano Bruno and Via del Consiglio, which had among its guests emperor Charles V and his son Philip II of Spain. The palace, which now houses the provincial courts, features an imposing gate (1506), a beautiful cloister and a grand staircase. 115


Picturesque Oltretorrente This itinerary will take you to one of the most picturesque but perhaps less famous areas of Parma: the Oltretorrente, the town’s west end across the river Parma (which is a torrente, more a stream than a river proper). It is mainly a working-class neighbourhood, once criss-crossed by canals lined with monasteries, charitable institutions and pre-industrial workshops. The great conductor Arturo Toscanini was born here, in a house which has been turned into a museum full of relics, documents and curiosities. The large building embellished by loggias in Via D’Azeglio 45 is Parma’s old hospital or Ospedale Vecchio, built in 1400 and in use until 1926. In the Oltretorrente you will also find the monumental church of the Santissima Annunziata (1566), featuring a stucco relief of the Annunciation over the central portal. Other sights are the 17th-century oratory of Sant’Ilario (1663), dedicated to the town’s patron saint, and the church of Santa Maria del Quartiere (1604). A few steps away from the river, across the Ponte Verdi, you will find the Palazzo Ducale, commissioned by Ottavio Farnese in 1561, designed by one of the geniuses of Renaissance architecture, Vignola, and remodelled by Petitot in 1767. Its finest frescoes are in the Stanza degli Uccelli, decorated with 224 birds, and the romantic Sala dell’Amore, frescoed by Carracci and partly by Parmigianino. The ducal palace is surrounded by a vast park featuring century-old trees and 18th-century sculptures. A tour of the courts along the Po The Italian Renaissance reached the apex of its splendour along the Po. This tour of river courts starts from Gualtieri, where during the Renaissance architect Argenta designed a breathtakingly original arcaded square. The east side of the square is dominated by the imposing Palazzo Bentivoglio, inside which there are the grand Sala dei Giganti (with 17th-century frescoes), a chapel and an 18th-century theatre. The palace also houses the Museo “Antonio Ligabue” which contains copies of the artist’s paintings. The Museo Nazionale di Pittura Naif “Cesare Zavattini” in nearby Luzzara, established in 1967, has a moderately sized collection of naive paintings. The atmosphere in Guastalla is that of a small capital city: the traces left by the former rulers, the Gonzaga, are still clearly visible. The main square, Piazza Mazzini, is dominated by a late 16th-century bronze statue of Ferrante I Gonzaga by Leone Leoni, who was also known as L’Aretino. The piazza also features the Cathedral of San Pietro and the late 16th century Palazzo Ducale. The glory days of the town of Correggio lasted as long as six centuries, during which it was the capital of a principality. Today it is a picturesque old town whose main highlight is the Palazzo dei Principi, which had among its guests Ariosto, Bembo, L’Aretino and emperor Charles V. It now houses the Museo Civico, arranged in five rooms: the Mantegna room with a Christ painted by Andrea Mantegna in 1493; the Correggio room, containing another Christ painted on wood by Antonio Allegri, the master better known as Correggio. 116


On the trail of the Este in Modena When the Este came to Modena, in 1598, the town became a splendid capital. Traces of those glory days can be found in several palaces, museums, art galleries, churches, and even a botanical garden, the Serre Ducali. Located between Corso Canal Grande and Viale Caduti in Guerra, the ducal glasshouses were established in the 18th century by Francesco III d’Este, and today contain over 1,000 rare plants. The first stop on this itinerary is the historical centre of municipal power, the town hall in Piazza Grande. Behind the 17th-century facade adorned by a loggia, the Palazzo Comunale is in fact a complex of several medieval buildings. Climb the grand staircase to see the frescoed rooms on the upper floors, such as the Sala del Fuoco (Hall of Fire) frescoed by Nicolò dell’Abate in 1546. Marble portals, terracotta statues and precious Renaissance frescoes feature among the treasures of the church and monastery of San Pietro (1476-1518), whose sacristy still retains its original inlaid furniture. But how did the powerful Este live? Answers to this question are provided by the Galleria Estense, on the top floor of the Palazzo dei Musei, containing a valuable collection of paintings, drawings, objects, ancient books which formerly belonged to the ducal family.

Renaissance Ferrara Ferrara still retains a distinctive Renaissance atmosphere. This itinerary is a real walk into the 16th century: a fascinating tour starting from the Castello Estense and proceeding along Via Borgo dei Leoni to the Chiesa del Gesù, which features a wonderful terracotta Lamentation over Christ. The itinerary also includes cobbled Corso d’Ercole I d’ Este, designed by the talented court architect Biagio Rossetti. The Corso, meant to be a Renaissance “ideal street”, runs in a perfectly straight line for some 1,300 metres or 1,421 yards and is lined by gardens and elegant palaces such as the Palazzo Giulio d’Este. The imposing buildings on the corners of the Quadrivio degli Angeli (Angels Crossing) between Corso Ercole I and Corso Porta Mare – the spot of Ferrara said to be most charged with cosmic energy – are the Palazzo dei Diamanti, the Palazzo Turchi di Bagno and the Palazzo Prosperi Sacrati. Not far from here is also Ludovico Ariosto’s home in Corso Rossetti. If you are tired of Renaissance town planning and would rather be in the country, take Viale della Certosa, a tree-lined dirt road right in the middle of the town centre. It connects the Certosa, formerly a monastery founded by Borso d’Este (1452) and now a monumental cemetery, with Piazza Ariostea, a grassy and geometric amphitheatre where the locals come to jog and play sport. On the corner between Viale della Certosa and Corso Porta Mare, the Galleria d’Arte Moderna housed in Palazzo Massari has a fine collection of impressionist art. 117


The roads of the Renaissance in Romagna The starting point for this itinerary is Bagnacavallo, a gem of medieval town planning with the charming Piazza Nuova, beautiful churches (such as San Michele, San Girolamo, and del Carmine) and a rich art gallery. Few people know that Bagnacavallo has Italy’s largest antique print and etching collection, donated by one Vittore Ferroni and further enlarged in the following years. It is now housed in the Gabinetto delle Stampe. Today the Gabinetto edits and publishes the directory of Italian etchers, which includes the names of some 750 living artists. The second stop is Bagnara di Romagna and its 15thcentury turreted fortress, still in perfect condition. It has had a long list of owners: the Holy See, the Este, the Venetians, the Manfredi, the Sforza, and Pope Sistus IV again. Today it is the town hall and houses a historical archive containing rare texts dating back to the 17th century. Another Renaissance fortress is that of Lugo, a fine example of 16th-century fortified architecture. This is not the only highlight of Lugo: the whole old town centre has an 18th-century atmosphere and offers treasures such as the arcaded market square of the Pavaglione and a monument in honour of local aviation hero Francesco Baracca.

The city-fortress of Terra del Sole The very name Terra del Sole (Land of the Sun) betrays the Renaissance utopian ideals that lay behind its conception. In fact, the village (close to Castrocaro Terme) was planned from scratch in the 15th century and is still intact. It was built by the Medici, archdukes of nearby Tuscany, and meant to be a fortified Ideal Town, a happy microcosm reflecting the perfection and harmony of the universal macrocosm. Terra del Sole or Heliopolis (Sun City) was designed and erected by the best team of architects of that time: Baldassarre Lanci from Urbino and his son Marino, Camerini, Buontalenti and Genga. The result was an administrative and military centre in the shape of a perfect rectangle surrounded by thick walls. Its cardus and decumanus divide the village into four symmetrical blocks, while the axis connecting the two gates marks the border of the two main divisions, the Roman and Florentinian borghi (ends). A star-shaped castle guards each of the two gates. In the centre of Terra del Sole there is a spacious drill ground (Piazza d’Armi) lined with monumental buildings such as the church of Santa Reparata, the Palazzo dei Commissari, the Palazzo dei Provveditori and the Palazzo della Provincia.

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The apex of Renaissance splendour: the Malatesta signory Were there a hit chart of the best monuments of the Italian Renaissance, the Tempio Malatestiano in Rimini would top it. This absolute must-see is perhaps the grandest symbol of the rule of the Malatesta dynasty over the local area. This building (in central Via IV Novembre, just off Piazza Cavour) was meant to be the mausoleum of powerful Sigismondo Malatesta, who had the older church of San Francesco demolished to make room for it. Sigismondo wanted the Temple to be the absolute wonder of his time, a status symbol that should have left his rivals agape with admiration and jealousy. To achieve this aim, in 1447 he called the greatest artists of the Renaissance: architect Leon Battista Alberti, who built the splendid marble facade; painter Piero della Francesca, who frescoed the walls; and sculptor Agostino di Duccio, the author of the reliefs inside. After Sigismondo fell into disrepute and was excommunicated in 1461, work stopped, never to be resumed again. Although incomplete, the Tempio Malatestiano is a magnificent building and holds several treasures of Renaissance art, including a wooden crucifix painted by Giotto and the tombs of Sigismondo and his young lover and wife-to-be Isotta degli Atti.

FROM THE ENLIGHTENMENT TO ROMANTICISM THROUGH EPIC REVOLUTIONS: ITINERARIES ACROSS THE MODERN AGE Verdi Country One of the most typical itineraries around Parma includes the places where Giuseppe Verdi was born and lived. The legendary composer (1813-1901) was born in Busseto (38 km or some 24 miles from Parma) and never left his land, not even when he became rich and famous. As he often put it, “I will always be a peasant from Roncole”. The starting point of this itinerary is precisely the maestro’s birthplace in Roncole Verdi, a suburb of Busseto, where Verdi spent his very first years. A few rooms on the first floor of a simple house and tavern have been refurnished with vintage furniture dating from the composer’s time. In larger Busseto virtually everything, except perhaps the collegiate church of San Bartolomeo and Villa Pallavicino, is dedicated to the maestro: a statue, Piazza Verdi and small Teatro Verdi, recently restored. Verdi moved here from Roncole at the age of 10, to go to a music school. He was the guest of the local grocer, Antonio Barezzi, and eventually married his daughter Margherita. Central Casa Barezzi still hold several relics of Verdi’s days, as does the Palazzo Orlandi, at that time the most aristocratic palace in town, bought by the maestro in 1845. Verdi lived here with his lover, the soprano Giuseppina Strepponi, raising quite a scandal among the locals. The last stop of the itinerary is Villa Verdi in Sant’Agata, home to the composer from 1851 until he died in 1901. 119


Reggio Emilia between the 18th and 19th centuries The starting point of this itinerary is Piazza Prampolini, the place where the Italian flag was invented and the scene of the popular revolt which led to the foundation of the short-lived Napoleonic Cispadane Republic. Inside the town hall or Palazzo Comunale, during the historic session of the 7th January, 1797, the delegates of the Republic adopted the red, white and green tricolour as their official flag. All the details of its history can be found in the Sala and Museo del Tricolore. Another interesting legacy of the late 18th century is the collection left by the Enlightenment naturalist Lazzaro Spallanzani, in the Musei Civici: the exhibits are still displayed following Spallanzani’s classification system. Moving on to the next century, main sights include the 19th-century section of the Galleria Fontanesi, the Teatro Ariosto or the Teatro Valli (1857), an imposing Neoclassical building that catalyzes the local cultural life. Another collection dating from the same period is the Galleria Parmeggiani, an eccentric collection displaying originals side by side with clever fakes. From here, it is only a short walk to the old alleyways winding around the recently restored synagogue in Via dell’Aquila, which was expanded in the egalitarian and libertarian 19th century. The itinerary ends with the former ducal palace (Palazzo Ducale) in Corso Garibaldi, now home to the provincial administration (Provincia).

Neoclassical Faenza You might think about this tour of neoclassical Faenza as a practical art history lesson. If you have no idea of what neoclassical architecture looks like, go straight to the Palazzo Milzetti, widely considered to be one of the finest Italian examples of neoclassicism. Built between 1792 and 1805 and currently stateowned, the palace has a stern facade with protruding corner decorations and trompe-l’oeil painting which creates a three-dimensional effect. Some of the rooms inside are finely decorated with tempera paintings and stuccowork depicting mythological scenes. Another masterpiece of neoclassical art is the Teatro Masini, which (as well as several other local buildings of the same period) features interiors designed by the talented Felice Giani (1758-1823). It is horseshoe-shaped and has four tiers of boxes separated by columns; the top tier is decorated with twenty statues of the Muses and the gods of Olympus. Neoclassical architecture, rich in columns, stuccos and mythological figures, is also a constant of the town hall and the palaces in Corso Mazzini: Palazzo Gessi, Palazzo Conti, Casa Morri and Casa Pistocchi, Palazzo Zucchini, and Casa Bubani. Neoclassical churches include San Domenico (in the piazza bearing the same name), San Vitale, San Sigismondo and San Gerolamo. The itinerary ends with two architectural treats, Villa Rotonda and Villa delle Sirene.

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Inter-war architecture Voluntarily forgotten until a few years ago for its embarrassing historical implications and recently revived, Mussolini Deco is a tangible legacy of the fascist love for grand boulevards, imposing palaces, tall open porticoes and spacious squares. Forlì, once called “Mussolin’s town”, is full of examples of fascist architecture, now favourite tourist sights. Mussolini, who was actually born in small Predappio, some 10 km or 6 miles west from Forlì, chose Forlì as his personal showcase: he ordered a massive re-planning of the town and crammed it with monumental buildings that celebrated Italy’s victory in WWI. The most extensive addition includes the train station (meant to be a gate to the town and a frontier), the broad and straight Viale della Libertà facing it and the several buildings on the Viale, such as the “ex G.I.L.” complex. Viale della Libertà leads to the vast Piazzale della Vittoria, dominated by the monument to WWI victims designed by the Roman architect Cesare Bazzani. The monument features a 22 metre (72 feet) tall column topped by a bronze allegory of the three victories carried off by the Italian navy, the air forces and the army. An imposing example of the functionalist current of Mussolini’s architecture is the huge Collegio Aeronautico, formerly an aeronautical academy and now a school complex that takes up a long tract of Viale della Libertà and Piazzale della Vittoria. Centrally located Piazza Saffi and Piazza XX Settembre also underwent massive changes under fascism: in the latter, a whole block of houses was razed to the ground to make room for the new tribunal. On Fellini’s trail Several places and people of Rimini feature prominently in Fellini’s films: the Grand Hotel, the cinema Fulgor, la Gradisca, il Pataca, the main square, the sea (with the fabulous ocean liner Rex fading in through the haze)... The Maestro always had a very special relationship with his hometown and asked to be buried here. Visitors to the cemetery of Rimini are welcomed by the sculpture dedicated by Arnaldo Pomodoro to Fellini and his wife and cult actress, Giulietta Masina: a ship’s bow raised towards the sky, a homage to the legendary Rex of Amarcord. Rimini also dedicated to the Maestro a research foundation, housed in Fellini’s home (Via Oberdan 1) together with a library, the collection of the filmmaker’s drawings, and a museum hosting exhibitions and containing props and sketches. The town’s film archives (Via Gambalunga 27) holds posters, films and other visual material. Next stops on the Fellini tour are Piazza Cavour and nearby Piazza Tre Martiri, the models for the main square in Amarcord. The actual square in the film is not real: Fellini always had “his” RImini reconstructed in the studios. The “original” cinema Fulgor, for instance, can still be seen in Corso d’Augusto, but the cinema in Roma and Amarcord was a stage reproduction. In front of the sea, along the central marina and in front of the large piazza dedicated to the Maestro, there is the splendid Grand Hotel (with the Fellini suite), which the film director saw as the embodiment of “the fable of wealth, luxury, Oriental magnificence... on summer nights, it turned into Istanbul, Baghdad, Hollywood...” 121


ITINERARIES OF OLD RESIDENCES

THE GLORY DAYS OF OLD STATELY HOMES

From palace to palace The position of Piacenza is one of the most strategic ones in Emilia-Romagna: it is situated on the right-hand bank of the Po where the Trebbia flows into the Great River, and all the roads of the Po valley cross here. This position accounts for the long and lively history of the town, which left a rich legacy of splendid aristocratic palaces. The best example is the pink marble and terracotta Palazzo Comunale in Piazza Cavalli, also called the “Gotico”; it was built by the local Consul of Trade in 1281. Next door is the Palazzo dei Mercanti, built by the merchants’ guild in 1676. Across the square you will find the Palazzo del Governatore (1787). The imposing Palazzo Malvicini Fontana da Nibbiano in Via Verdi was home to a local family of powerful nobles. In Via Giordani there is the 18th-century Palazzo Anguissola Rocca, while the highlight of Via San Siro is the Palazzo Scotti da Sarmato, with its monumental gate, porticoes, marble staircase and finely decorated rooms: among its guests were Napoleon and Pope Pius VI. In Via San Siro you will also find the Palazzo Arcelli and the Palazzo Radini-Tedeschi, which has the town’s most impressive grand staircase. Parallel to Via San Siro runs Via Scalabrini, with a dozen 17th- and 18th-century buildings ranging from the Palazzo Rossi Trevani and the Palazzo Appiani d’Aragona Borromeo to the Episcopal Seminary. 122


Piazza Camillo Prampolini and its palaces The history of a town can be “read” from the buildings that house its public authorities. In Reggio Emilia, such palaces are concentrated in Piazza Prampolini, whose south side is taken up by the Palazzo del Comune (town hall), built in the 15th century with several later restructurings, which now features an 18th-century facade. Inside there is the Sala del Tricolore where, on 7 January 1797, the red, white and green tricolour was adopted as the official flag of the Cispadane Republic. In the square you will also find the statue of the Crostolo, transferred here from Villa Ducale in Rivalta. The east side is taken up by the Cathedral, whose Romanesque features were mostly remodelled during the Renaissance, and the 16th-century Bishop’s Palace (Palazzo Vescovile), which incorporated a Romanesque baptistery and the Palazzo dei Canonici. Facing the Bishop’s Palace, the Palazzo delle Notarie was home to the notaries’ guild up to the mid-15th century; the notaries used to set up their public stalls under its portico. On the north side of the square there is the Palazzo del Monte di Pietà, Reggio’s original town hall, with its lofty medieval clock tower. The town’s other main hub, Piazza Cesare Battisti, also has imposing palaces, such as the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, dating back to 1280, and the Albergo Posta next door, named after the inn that in 1913 replaced a 16th-century charitable institution, the Ospizio del Cappello Rosso. The last sight in Piazza Battisti is the Palazzo Bussetti (1657), perhaps designed by Bernini and formerly a Jesuit seminary and the seat of the local University. The palaces of the Este Duchy Modena still has several reminders of its days of glory when it was the fabulous capital of the Este Duchy. To be taken back to those days all you have to do is stroll along the cobbled streets and alleyways of its town centre, among the baroque churches and aristocratic palaces between Via dei Servi, Rua Muro and Corso Canalchiaro. The starting point of this itinerary is the splendid Palazzo Ducale, in Piazza Roma, one of Italy’s finest baroque buildings. This masterpiece of 17th-century art, richly decorated with turrets, cornices and statues of mythical gods, was designed by Bartolomeo Avanzini. See the inner grand courtyard with its scenic double loggia. Inside, the finest rooms are the prince’s apartments, the throne hall (Sala del Trono), the grand hall (Salone d’Onore) and the golden room (Salottino d’Oro), where it is thought that Francesco IV D’Este signed the death sentence of the insurrectionist patriot Ciro Menotti. In 1862, the Palazzo Ducale became a Military Academy (visit the Museum inside to learn more about its history), where young army officers-to-be are trained; this accounts for the boys and girls going around town in their shiny and slightly old-fashioned uniforms. Some of the finest baroque churches of Modena date back to the same period as the Ducal Palace: they are Sant’Agostino, San Bartolomeo and San Domenico, whose rather nondescript facade hides a treasure of stucco statues, reliefs and busts of the Este dukes. 123


Music for strings and palaces Bologna is one of the greatest cities of music in Italy. In 2004, the Palazzo Aldini Sanguinetti in Strada Maggiore 34, surrounded by a trompe-l’oeil garden, became home to the Museo della Musica. This museum hosts concerts and lute-making workshops and contains paintings, scores and opera props tracing back the last 500 years of the history of music, besides one of the world’s first libraries entirely devoted to music, with some 110,000 books. The itinerary of “Musical Bologna” is concentrated in the old town centre. It starts from the Basilica di San Petronio, which boasts Italy’s oldest church organ still in use and a beautiful music chapel. The second stop is the Torre dell’Arengo, the bell-tower of the town hall, which holds the town’s heaviest bell (4700 kg, or 740 stone). In Piazza Rossini there is the Conservatorio Giovanni Battista Martini (1804) where the young Gioacchino Rossini took music lessons, while Via Zamboni 15 is the address of an elegant concert house, the Oratorio di Santa Cecilia. Close by, in Via Zamboni 30, is the local opera house: the Teatro Comunale, which once had Giuseppe Verdi as a guest director. The Accademia Filarmonica in Via Guerrazzi 13, est. 1666, used to issue a prestigious certificate of excellence: even the young Mozart, at the age of 14, came here to take the exam. Other curiosities are Donizetti’s home in Via Pepoli 1 and the home of Farinelli, the most famous castrato ever, in Via Santa Margherita 6. Historical buildings in Ferrara Stately homes abound in the well-preserved old town centre of Ferrara. Take the alleyway to the left of the cathedral, Via Adelardi. During the evening this is a busy spot crowded with pubs and wine cellars. Al Brindisi at no. 11 has an entry on the Guinness book of Records: it is the oldest osteria (inn) in the world, founded in 1435 as Hostaria del Chiucchiolino. In its illustrious past it catered for personalities such as poets Ludovico Ariosto and Torquato Tasso, sculptor and writer Benvenuto Cellini, painter Tiziano Vecellio and astronomer Copernicus. Other beauties can be found in Via Voltapaletto and Via Savonarola, formerly called Via di San Francesco: the church of San Francesco, the Palazzo Pareschi and Casa Romei (Via Savonarola 10) with a magnificent inner courtyard. If the name Cesare Borgia rings a bell (he inspired Machiavelli’s The Prince), then you might also know his sister Lucrezia, one of the most fascinating personalities of the Italian Renaissance, a woman whose controversial reputation includes both being suspected of murder and, conversely, rumours of sanctity. Lucrezia was buried in the convent of Corpus Domini in Via del Pergolato, close to two other mystical places – the oratory of the Annunziata and the church of Santa Maria del Vado. Then there are the Palazzo Schifanoia, with its fine frescoes by the Ferraresi workshop, the Palazzo Bonacossi (which now houses the Musei di Arte Antica) and the Palazzina Marfisa, of which the latter two were originally connected by a series of loggias and gardens. 124


A tour of the delizie of the Este in and around Ferrara The delizie (palaces of joy) were the residences where the Este and their court indulged in their favoured activities: banquets, balls and all sorts of entertainments, accompanied by the magnificence of a great Renaissance court, embellished by frescoes painted by the best artists of the time, and surrounded by sculpted gardens full of rare and exotic beasts. The most renowned delizia is probably the Palazzo Schifanoia, built by the Este in 1385 in what was then open countryside, although within the city walls. The first delizia to be built outside the city walls was the huge castle of Belriguardo (1435), a palace built by Borso d’Este which contained a room for each day of the year and much envied by his peers. A few miles away, near Gambulaga, four turrets mark the Delizia del Verginese. The Delizia di Fossadalbero, along the Po, was the love nest for the unfortunate love affair between Ugo and Parisina, respectively the son and second wife of marquis Nicolò III. Hamlets were built around some of the delizie, such as the castle of Mesola (1500) still surrounded by a circle of low porticoed buildings.

The Roman domus in Ravenna When one talks about Ravenna, the first thing that comes to mind is its status as the capital of the Western Empire, but in fact the origins of the town are much older than that. This itinerary is an opportunity to discover the Roman Ravenna, starting from the Domus del Triclinio inside the church of San Nicolò. It is the reconstruction of an aristocratic Roman dining room with original tableware from a Roman house dating back to the 2nd century AD and excavated in the heart of Ravenna over 20 years ago. In 1993 another domus was discovered in the town centre: it dates back to the late Roman era and we don’t know anything about the people who lived in it, except that they must have been extremely rich since they could afford at least 14 rooms and 3 courtyards with marble mosaic floors. Today this magnificent ruin, dubbed the “house of stone carpets” or Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra, is open to the public (entrance from the church of Sant’Eufemia).

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The town hall in Forlì The very walls of the town hall of Forlì, which takes up a whole side of Piazza Saffi, are imbued with history and intrigue. Girolamo Riario, the husband of the local ruler Caterina Sforza and Pope Sistus IV’s nephew, was killed here on 14 April 1488 and thrown out of one of the windows in the scenic Sala delle Ninfe (to be precise, the third window from left). Caterina then took her revenge and had one of the murderers hanged from the same window. The Palazzo Comunale and its tower, two of the symbols of Forlì, also have artistic merit: originally built in the 14th century, the complex underwent a long succession of changes to suit the tastes of the local rulers. A placard hanging at the entrance of the palace tells the story of the building. The grand staircase leads to a narrow gallery opening into the Sala dei Donzelli or degli Angeli, decorated by two large neoclassical canvases, the Argive Supplicants on the right and Leena biting her tongue on the left. Also interesting are the mayor’s room with its Napoleonic-style furniture and the council room or Sala dei Fasti, designed and frescoed by Bibbiena with trompe-l’oeil illusions of columns, balconies and banisters. The small Piazzetta della Misura behind the town hall is also worth a look: its 15th-century loggia, previously hidden under more recent walls, was discovered only in 1929.

CASTLES AND FORTRESSES BETWEEN LEGEND AND HISTORY A tour of the castles of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza The scenic castles of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza are ready and waiting to welcome and impress visitors with their art treasures, turrets and mysteries. Some of them offer costume dinners or readings of medieval poetry. Particularly charming sights are the Rocca San Vitale in Fontanellato, surrounded by a moat still filled with water (one of the few remaining in Italy) and the splendid Rocca Meli Lupi in Soragna, with its park and pond. Romantics should head for the Castle of Roccabianca and the Rocca dei Rossi in San Secondo Parmense, where Pier Maria Rossi used to meet his fascinating lover Bianca Pellegrini. Another spectacular castle is the Reggia di Colorno, but every manor in this area is original in history. The fortress in Bardi, near Fornovo, was long contended over by the local signories. The castle of Montechiarugolo has a breathtaking view over the valley of the Enza. The castle of Felino houses exhibitions and conferences. The many-towered castle of Compiano is surrounded by the forests of the scenic Taro valley, rich in truffles. The fortress in Sala Baganza was the summer residence of the Farnese dynasty. Finally, the castle of Torrechiara, one of the region’s best preserved and most charming manors, holds several art treasures, including the golden Sala d’Oro, whose decorations were inspired by the theme of courtly love. 126


A tour of Matilda’s castles A tour of the castles of countess Matilda of Canossa will be unforgettable. Leave behind Reggio Emilia, then Cavriago and Bibbiano, and you’ll come to the castle of Bianello, where a costumed event takes place during the last Sunday of May. Bianello is the last surviving manor in Quattro Castella, which took its name from its four castles. Along the road to Canossa, which cuts through unspoilt landscapes, stop over at the small church of the Madonna della Battaglia (Our Virgin of the Battle), built by Matilda as a votive offering after her victory over the imperial army in 1092. The legendary fortress of Canossa, where emperor Henry IV humbled himself before Pope Gregory VII, now lies in ruins. What is left of this once imposing castle are a few towers and turrets, a cistern, bits and pieces of the crypt of the church of Sant’Apollonio and some crumbled walls of the 16th-century Palazzo dei Ruggeri. Other relics are kept in the small but carefully restored Museo Nazionale “Naborre Campanini”, including a 12th-century baptismal font carved out of one stone block. To the west, the imposing castle of Rossena guarded the approaches to Canossa. On your way back to Reggio, stop over at Votigno, an old town reconstructed using local stone and home to an important centre of Tibetan culture. Along the highway SS 63 you will also find the 18th-century Villa d’Este with its artificial lake, once called Fuggi l’ozio (escape from idleness).

The circuit of the “Este lands” (Terre Estensi) The area around Modena, too, is full of great manors and palaces, most of which can be squeezed into a day’s tour. The Castello delle Rocche in Finale Emilia is the typical medieval castle: built around AD 1000 for military purposes, during the Renaissance it was turned into a splendid residential palace. The square fortress of San Felice sul Panaro, further fortified by the towers at its corners, hosted Pope Julius II in 1511. The rulers of Carpi, the Pio dynasty, turned their fiefdom into a small Renaissance capital; in 15thcentury Piazza Martiri they built the turreted and towered Castello dei Pio, featuring a splendid courtyard by Bramante and finely frescoed apartments. It was the Pio who, together with the Este, made splendid mansions out of the military outposts of Rocca Calcagnini in Formigine and the castle of Spezzano. A map of the castles, villages and hamlets belonging to the Pio can be found in the Sala dei Casti. Last but not least, the castle of Levizzano Rangone features in a document that dates back to before AD 1000. finally, the castle of Sestola, perched on a rock spur, which retains its star-shaped plan that was so common among medieval military citadels.

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The Via Emilia towards Imola and the Apennines around Bologna This itinerary, especially enjoyable during the warm season, will take up a full day. From Bologna head for the Apennines on the border with Tuscany. After Ozzano Emilia follow uphill towards Settefonti for another 6 km (3.7 miles), and you’ll find yourself surrounded by the unspoilt hilly landscape of the Parco Regionale dei Gessi Bolognesi e dei Calanchi dell’Abbadessa (sights include the medieval hamlet of San Pietro and the nearby abbey of Monte Armato). As you drive back to the Via Emilia, stop over in the spa resort of Castel San Pietro Terme to see its fortress, built by the Bolognese in 1198. Another fairytale village is Dozza lmolese, with its low houses decorated with bright murals, some of which are painted by internationally renowned artists. The town is dominated by the imposing Rocca Sforzesca, now home to the Enoteca Regionale (regional wine-cellar). The next stop is Imola, famous for its F1 racetrack, but in fact a handsome art town. Visit its porticoed old centre, the Palazzo Tozzoni and several beautiful monasteries and churches. After Imola, head for the Apennines and savour the landscape and towns you will pass along the way, such as Casalfiumanese and the Tower-house of Sassoleone, Borgo Tossignano with the Baron’s Palace, Fontanelice with the Torre degli Alidosi and Castel Del Rio. This last town features the imposing Castello Alidosi, the Museo della Guerra (war museum), the bizarre Museo del Castagno (chestnut museum) and the beautiful Ponte Alidosi, an “assback” (schiena d’asino) bridge.

The old castle of the Manfredi dynasty A reward awaits those who venture beyond traditional tourist routes and one we recommend is visiting the Tower of Oriolo dei Fichi. It is found in the foothills of the Apennines some 8 km (5 miles) from Faenza (a good trek or bicycle ride). This tall tower is all that’s left of the 1476 castle of the Manfredi dynasty, the local rulers. Originally a bulwark and a watchtower which guarded the castle from enemy raids, today the tower houses a small archaeological museum and a shop selling local specialities such as DOC and DOGC wines from the Food and Sangiovese Trail of the Hills around Faenza (Strada del Sangiovese e dei Sapori delle Colline di Faenza). But what really makes it worth the trek is the view over the surrounding landscape, vaguely reminiscent of Renaissance paintings. The tower borders onto the beautiful Parco delle Ginestre, a wildlife reserve where rare bird species come to nest and reproduce. Several trekking and cycling paths pass by the tower of Oriolo dei Fichi: try the Sentiero di San Biagio Antico, the Sentiero di San Mamante or the Sentiero Corolla delle Ginestre.

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Malatesta castles and fortresses As you drive from the seaside inland from Rimini, you’ll see an increasing number of fortresses, towers, castles and manors crop up from behind hills and rock spurs. They all belonged to one owner: the powerful rulers of Rimini, the Malatesta dynasty. They had the main function of defending the land from external attacks, but were also grand stately homes – which makes this itinerary all the more interesting. Starting from the Valmarecchia just outside Rimini, you will find the fortresses of Santarcangelo and Verucchio (the hometown of the Malatesta family). Then, close by, the castles of Torriana and Montebello face each other. The latter, called Rocca dei Guidi di Bagno, is haunted by the ghost of lady Azzurrina. The Valconca valley is overlooked by the splendid fortress of Montefiore, which in its time hosted kings, popes and emperors. The castle of Montegridolfo is completely different from the others: it is a fortified medieval village which was crumbling to pieces when it was bought by fashion designer Ferretti, who then restored every bit of it, down to the tiniest house and the last cobblestone. It is now home to a luxury hotel, inns and typical handicraft workshops.

CHARMING VILLAGES AND ROMANTIC LANDSCAPES The villages around Piacenza Every single village of the plains and hills around Piacenza has its own special atmosphere. Fairytale Rivalta, a suburb of Gazzola, has remained incredibly intact, and is a fortified Renaissance village consisting of a castle with a round tower, a huge park and a parish church. Its Museo della Battaglia di Lepanto displays relics of the battle between the Christian and Turkish fleets (1571), including three original battle flags. The second stop is Cortemaggiore, a small “ideal city” planned in 1480 following the ideals of perfection and functionality. Originally meant to be the new capital of the fiefdom of the Pallavicino (an old dynasty who had sworn allegiance to Charlemagne), it is now a perfect example of Renaissance town planning. A particularly scenic spot is Castell’Arquato, a monumental castle perched on the top of a hill overlooking the medieval village below, with its terracotta houses and beautiful sights such as the fortress (1343-1347), the Palazzo Pretorio (12931447) and the collegiate church of Santa Maria (1122). It is also home to an interesting geological museum containing the remains of whales that once swam in the waters of the ancient Po sea (Mare Padano) which covered the area. The last stop of this itinerary is the handsome medieval village of Vigoleno, with its imposing round keep, elegant city walls, the 12th-century parish church of San Giorgio and the oratory of the Beata Vergine del Latte. 129


A walking tour of Parma This walking tour of the old town centre of Parma starts from scenic Piazza Duomo and its treasures: the cathedral, the baptistery and the church of San Giovanni Evangelista, which has several art treasures by Antelami and Correggio. The facade of San Giovanni Evangelista is baroque, but the complex (a church, a monastery and a historical apothecary) dates back to the 10th century. Piazzale San Francesco is dominated by the 15th-century Palazzo Cusani, a splendid Renaissance palace, now home to the first Italian opera museum (an interesting place even for those completely ignorant about opera) and an internationally renowned research centre on music which holds important documents. The Pinacoteca Stuard art gallery is on the corner between Borgo Parmigianino and Via Melloni; and if you keep going down Via Melloni, you will find the famous Camera di San Paolo, a part of an old Benedictine convent, wonderfully frescoed by Correggio and Araldi (1541-1519).

The charming villages of Romagna This itinerary can be completed in one day provided that you don’t linger too long in one of the stops: Riolo Terme, Casola Valsenio or Brisighella. Art Nouveau Riolo Terme is better known as a state-of-the-art spa resort, but it is also an art town. See the imposing 14th-century fortress surrounded by the old town centre and the city walls: it was built by the Bolognese as a military outpost garrisoned by 300 soldiers, and later further expanded. Another interesting sight are the ruins of the mysterious abbey (badia) of San Pietro in Sala, now incorporated into a farmhouse. During the spring, Casola Valsenio is pervaded by the smell and colours of lavender. Located in a serene valley near the border between Romagna and Tuscany, the town is famous for being the national centre of officinal herbs with a curious “smell archive” (olfattoteca), but also features architectural treasures such as the abbey of Valsenio. Medieval Brisighella is in the valley running parallel to that of Casola. Its cobbled streets and alleyways wind uphill to the fortress which tops the highest of the three gypsum spurs overlooking the town, while the other two spurs are dominated by a clock tower and the sanctuary of Monticino. Just outside town you will find the ancient Pieve del Thò, a parish church that was allegedly built by Galla Placidia. If you feel like a romantic stroll, try the scenic elevated passageway called Via degli Asini (mule road). 130


Fascinating Bertinoro Bertinoro is a small medieval hill town that looks down on Forlì and Cesena, between the Apennines and the coast. The picturesque slope leading to the town centre, located near the top of the hill, is full of traditional old restaurants and taverns that convey the warm, welcoming spirit of Romagna. It also has a superb view over the valley and coast below, which accounts for its nickname, “the terrace over Romagna”. Legend has it that its clock tower was a sort of guiding light for the ships sailing the Adriatic, since it is clearly visible from the sea. Bertinoro is a typical medieval enclosed citadel, with its houses clustered around the fortress and protected by towers, walls and gates. Today it is known as the town of hospitality: every year in central Piazza della Libertà there is a “Guests’ festival” dating back 7 centuries. In the piazza there is an unusual stone column with 12 metal rings: it is the Colonna delle Anella, erected in the 13th century to settle disputes among the local noble families who constantly squabbled over who would have the privilege of hosting foreign guests, be them aristocratic knights or humble wayfarers. Each ring belonged to a family; the ring to which a stranger in need of hospitality tethered his horse (or from which he hanged his hat or staff, if he was on foot) decided which family would host him.

The borghi (suburbs) of Rimini Low houses, narrow alleyways, children playing in the streets and small taverns: this is not an illustration from a fairytale but Borgo San Giuliano, a world apart just across the Bridge of Tiberius, a few steps away from the bustling town centre and crowded beaches. The people living here (called borghigiani) have retained their distinctive identity, which sets them apart from the rest of the town. Beside the small cafés and hang-outs, the Borgo also features murals depicting scenes taken from Fellini’s films. The best occasion to come here is the twenty-year-old local festival or Festa de’ Borg, held in September every even-numbered year, which puts on dances, entertainment and food stalls. Another picturesque part of Rimini is Borgo San Giovanni across the Arch of Augustus, where a similar festival is held every July. A third festival is that of Borgo Sant’Andrea near Piazza Mazzini, which has interesting sights such as the old Lavatoio (wash-house), the Foro Boario (old cattle market), Piazza dei Gessi and the Fornace Fabbri (a brick kiln).

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IN SEARCH OF PAST TRADITIONS

A DAY OUT IN THE PAST: COSTUME EVENTS That’s medieval entertainment! Imagine a medieval banquet with damsels, knights and jesters in the shadow of a castle. Well, you can have it – in Grazzano Visconti, in the valley of the Nure, on the last Sunday of May. The Spring Festival (Festa di Primavera) is the largest costume event around Piacenza and Grazzano, a village rebuilt a century ago in the medieval style, provides the perfect background for the costume parades, concerts, dances, tournaments and banquets. The festival commemorates the day when, in 1389, the daughter of the lord of Grazzano, Caterina Anguissola, got married to the brother of the king of France, Louis I d’Orleans. From Grazzano we move on to the castle of Gropparello (789), an old Celtic village with the first park of its kind in Italy, the Parco delle Fiabe (Fairytale Park), located in the middle of an ancient 7-hectare forest. Every Sunday from March to February all visitors, whether adults or children, are dressed in medieval costumes and become characters of themed live performances directed by professional actors. Hungry after the show? Have a picnic in the park (but make sure you don’t leave any litter behind!), or pop into the medieval tavern. Another popular costume event is the medieval dinner held every year in the picturesque square of Castell’Arquato, accompanied by a costume parade.

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The Palio of Parma Setting up an engagement party has always been difficult. In 1314 Ghiberto da Correggio, lord of Parma and betrothed to Maddalena Rossi, decided to entertain the hundreds of guests he had invited to his court with a spectacular tournament. That was the first Palio of Parma, a tradition long lost and revived in 1978, since when it has attracted (and keeps attracting) thousands of people. Today’s Palio, held in the most picturesque streets of the old town centre in late September, is exactly the same as it used to be in the 14th century. It consists in a relay race of 5 teams representing the five city gates (porte), each with tights of different colours: green for Porta Santa Croce, white for Porta San Francesco (now Piazzale Barbieri), blue for Porta Nuova (Barriera Farini), yellow for Porta San Michele (Barriera Repubblica) and red for Porta San Barnaba (Barriera Garibaldi).

At the court of Countess Matilda Countess Matilda of Canossa was probably the most popular ruler Reggio Emilia ever had. This accounts for the several costume events that commemorate the main episodes of her life. The most renowned event is the parade held in Quattro Castella on the last Sunday of May, which re-enacts the day when Matilda was appointed the Emperor’s deputy in Italy (1111). The parade is led by famous personalities dressed as emperor Henry V and Matilda, who, accompanied by several followers, walk down the hill of Bianello up to a playground near the parish church. This is where the real show begins: with medieval games, scenes of everyday life and entertainment such as the quintana dell’anello (a quintain) and performances by flag-wavers, drummers and musicians. Another important event is the Palio Matildico in Vetto (second Sunday of July), with demonstrations by craftspeople and traditional games, a costume parade and an old-style market. The Rievocazione Storica Canossana in Ciano d’Enza (first Sunday of September) commemorates Matilda’s role in reconciling emperor Henry IV with Pope Gregory VII. The event features hundreds of costumed characters and a few personalities from Italian showbiz.

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Commemorations in the villages around Modena The best period for historical re-enactments around Modena is between April and September. In April there is the costume parade of Vignola, which is set in the 16th century and celebrates the blossoming of cherry trees. In June, Modena is enlivened by the Serate Estensi – festivals, tournaments, live shows, exhibitions, dances and costume parades. In July, Frassinoro (in the Apennines) celebrates its Settimana Matildica (Matilda’s Week): over 100 costumed characters roam the streets and medieval dishes are served in the local restaurants. In August there is Fiumalbo Autodafé, an open-air re-enactment of a trial by the Inquisition. The characters – monks, sorcerers and peasants – move about the town’s squares and courtyards and along the riverbank, followed by their public. September is the month of Finale Estense in Finale Emilia, which consists of two great costume parades (which involve over 1000 participants), concerts, dances and the Palio delle Cerchie. In the same period there is also the live draughts game in Castelvetro, a homage to the illustrious guest of the local counts Rangoni, poet Torquato Tasso. The Lotta per la spada dei Contrari (“struggle for the Contrari sword”), held in a Savignano sul Panaro in September, is the commemoration of an old rivalry; the old medieval village comes alive with reconstructions of old workshops and taverns, market stalls, jesters, damsels, fire-eaters and tricksters.

The Palio of Ferrara The Palio of Ferrara is an absolute must-see. It is the world’s oldest palio: its tradition was established by the City of Ferrara in 1279 and didn’t take a break until 1869 (which is a record!). Today a thousand locals dressed as damsels and knights, men-at-arms and musicians take part in the palio. It is held during the last Sunday of May not only because the spring is the best time of the year for open-air events, but also because May was the month of one of the most memorable palios ever – the one celebrating the crowning of Borso d’Este as the Duke of Ferrara. There are eight contending contrade divided into four rioni within the city walls and another four borghi outside the walls. After the costume parade, the contrade have to run four races, one for boys (Corsa dei Putti or Palio di San Romano), one for girls (Corsa delle Putte or Palio di San Paolo), one for donkeys (Corsa delle Asine or Palio di San Maurelio) and the last one for horses (Corsa dei Cavalli or Palio di San Giorgio).

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The castle of Stellata and the Salt war In spite of its fairytale look, the Rocca Possente (“mighty fortress”) of Stellata is a very real historic stronghold, located on the bank of the Po 9 km (about 5.5 miles) from Bondeno. Stellata is an intact 16th-century hamlet surrounded by a green curtain of poplars. Here the Salt war (1482-84) between the Duchy of Ferrara and the Republic of Venice is re-enacted every year in August. The war was waged by powerful Venice, which conquered all the lands of the Duchy up to their last bulwark, small Stellata. At that moment, however, Ferrara was joined by the armies of Ludovico Sforza and the Duke of Urbino Federico da Montefeltro; the latter led all military actions until he fell ill and died from malaria. Commemorations involve 200 costumed participants and a full two days of painstakingly accurate re-enactments of the attack to the fortress, with reconstructions of the military camps and everyday medieval scenes, food, music and jugglers. All shows and exhibitions are free.

The Palio del Niballo Seeing the Palio del Niballo is like living a day in 14th-century Faenza – and enjoying it, too. The palio, held on the last Sunday of June, attracts an increasing number of visitors every year thanks to its successful formula, both traditional and exciting. Flag-wavers, cavaliers and drummers dressed in the colours of the town’s five contending rioni (White, Yellow, Black, Red and Green) flood the most charming parts of the old town centre, accompanied by the pounding of drums. The palio proper consists in hitting a revolving dummy with a spear. The dummy is fashioned as a Saracen warrior (called the “Niballo”) and the idea is to get your horse to run past faster than the Niballo turns. In June, before the palio, the rioni warm up with flag-waving and music competitions and the Bigorda d’Oro (a palio for younger racers). And of course, one needs to eat properly to be fit and win: banquets go on for weeks, and visitors are welcome to join in!

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The marriage of Roberto Malatesta and Elisabetta da Montefeltro (1475) In late June 1475, when ruthless Roberto Malatesta “Il Magnifico” (The Great), the son of powerful Sigismondo, married Elisabetta, the daughter of Duke Federico da Montefeltro, the grand ceremony was followed by a week’s celebrations. Their union was dictated not only by love but also by political strategy, as the Malatesta wanted to have their powerful neighbours, the Montefeltro, on their side rather than set against them. Today, the old town centre of Rimini provides the background for the re-enactment of that marriage and offers a full week of non-stop costume events and live shows with jesters, musicians and flag-wavers performing alongside food stalls which serve dishes made according to medieval recipes (from the afternoon until midnight). Just stroll around the town to see jugglers on stilts, men-atarms, crossbowmen, drummers, dancers, falconers, carousels and duels. The grand finale is the medieval dinner and fireworks show. And if you want to know more about the Malatesta family, go to one of the conferences on their history which are held every day at the Lapidario Romano of the Museo della Città (Via Tonini 1), or join a guided tour of Castel Sismondo, the Tempio Malatestiano and the Museo della Città.

Mondaino: the palio del daino The palio in Modaino and the festival of Saludecio (both near Rimini) are outstanding events. Mondaino was the favourite town of the Malatesta; it takes its name from the fallow deer (daino in Italian) that once abounded in the area and also from an old temple dedicated to the Roman hunting goddess Diana. Its main highlights are the curiously semicircular piazza lined with porticoes and the fortress, which survived many a fierce battle. The palio del daino, held during the second half of August in the central piazza, features parades, performances and contests among the four contrade, but also the reconstruction of old workshops and taverns offering samplings of medieval food. A more recent historical period, the 19th century, is revived in nearby Saludecio during the Ottocento Festival (first half of August), and attracts thousands of visitors every year. Anybody can get make-up and a costume from one of the dedicated stalls of the market and take part in this collective ride back into the past. It is also an occasion to see the town, which is full of beautiful churches, palaces, mural paintings, towers, castles and a small aromatic garden (right outside Porta Romana).

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OLD CRAFTS AND TRADITIONS

Handicrafts, food and wine: an itinerary of workshops and kitchens The old town centre of Modena does not only feature ducal palaces and Renaissance art galleries, medieval cathedrals and scenic squares. It is also full of small old workshops where typical handicrafts are produced or restored: tanners, binders, furniture decorators, frame-makers, straw weavers and upholsterers. If you don’t have much time for shopping, try the “Mostra permanente dell’Artigianato Artistico Modenese” showroom (www.artigian atoartisticomodenese.it). Modena is also one of the Italian capitals of food and wine. In the old town centre there are several baker’s and conditioner’s workshops that welcome curious visitors, as do some producers of handmade pasta. If you want to try the real cured meat specialities – DOP Prosciutto di Modena, IGP Zampone di Modena and IGP Cotechino di Modena – do not rely on supermarkets, but head for one of the central butcher’s shops. And don’t forget to buy a bottle of traditional balsamic vinegar and one of nocino, the traditional strong liqueur of Modena made from alcohol, walnuts and sugar.

Mouth-watering Bologna This is a gourmet tour of the typical food markets, osterie and old workshops of Bologna. The starting point is one of the most picturesque areas of the old town centre, the medieval market off Piazza Maggiore, in the maze of alleyways between Via delle Drapperie, Via degli Orefici and Via Clavature. Take your time to look at the goods on the stalls and in the shop-windows before you move on to narrow Via Pescherie Vecchie, the town’s fish market. Vicolo Ranocchi (ranocchio meaning “frog”) takes its name from the frog vendors who supplied the Bolognesi with one of their favourite delicacies, which abounded in the marshes surrounding the city. Bologna is also the city of inns, wine cellars and taverns (osterie). The most typical one is the old Osteria del Sole, which only sells beverages: if you don’t want to drink on an empty stomach, feel free to bring your own bread and mortadella like the locals. In Via Caprarie you’ll find Paolo Atti baker’s shop, est. 1903, which does not only sell bread but also homemade tortellini and pasta – poet Giosuè Carducci and painter Giorgio Morandi were regulars. Close by, there is Tamburini salsamenteria (delicatessen and salami producers), est. 1896. Other historical places are the Caffè Zanarini on the corner with Via Farini, Majani chocolate makers (producers of the world-famous Fiat chocolate creams and Scorza dark chocolate bark), and the osterie in Via del Pratello, Via Mascarella, Via delle Belle Arti, Via Mentana and Via delle Moline. 137


Contemporary mosaics The mosaic tradition is still alive and well in Ravenna, with a rich production of contemporary masterpieces ranging from naturalistic representations to abstract or informal art. Check out the Museo d’Arte, which holds Europe’s largest collection of contemporary mosaics, with preparatory cartoons (sketches) by artists such as Renato Guttuso, Afro, Renato Birolli or Antonio Porpora. For futurist wall mosaics, see the Sala dei Mosaici in the Palazzo Mutilato, decorated by the best mosaicists of the 20th century, from Renato Signorini to Antonio Rocchi. The municipality of Ravenna has even commissioned a tower entirely covered in mosaics, whose design was inspired by the representations of the towers of Zion in the Byzantine mosaics of San Vitale and Sant’Apollinare in Classe. The Fontana Ardea Purpurea in Piazza della Resistenza, made by Marco Bravuira in 1999, is a symbol of friendship and sisterhood between two cities, as a twin fountain by Andrea Purpurea stands in Beirut.

Forlì and the folk museum “Benedetto Pergoli” Italy has many folk museums, but the “Benedetto Pergoli” museum in Forlì (Corso della Repubblica 72) has a particular touch of realism. It contains home interiors and workshops reconstructed using original vintage materials. The first room is an osteria (inn or tavern) with a bar and two massive tables with matching benches. Then there is a cellar with barrels, caskets and flasks, followed by two living rooms and double and single bedrooms. The last room is a kitchen dominated by a fireplace and a 17th-century cupboard; the rest of the furniture is late 19th-century, while the tableware is more recent (early 20th century). The kitchen was the heart of the home, the place where the householder (azdor in the local dialect) gave orders in regards to the housekeeping and the tilling of the land. There are also reconstructions of several old workshops: a cobbler’s, a hatter’s, a tailor’s, a cloth printer’s, a potter’s, a lute maker’s, a blacksmith’s and a goldsmith’s. The museum was founded in 1922 by a group of local intellectuals headed by poet Aldo Spallacci, and is still one of the main attractions in town.

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From old piadina pans to rust-printed cloths Piadina, the flat, unleavened bread of Romagna, is always delicious, but even more so when it is cooked over a testo (typical pan). The best testi can be found in the small borough of Montetiffi near Sogliano al Rubicone, where a workshop still makes them following the century-old tradition. The secret is in the mixture of a particular stone with red and dark clay, which is placed on a potter’s wheel covered in ash to prevent the mixture from sticking and shaped in disks with a diameter of 35-40 cm (approx. 14-16 inches). The disks are left to dry from two to seven weeks (depending on weather conditions) and then baked for eight to twelve hours, whether in a kiln or on an open fire. The quality of the testi is finally assessed by tapping them. Another fascinating craft is cloth-printing; in several workshops in Gambettola, Cesenatico, Forlì and Santa Sofia visitors are allowed to watch the entire process. The strong smell lingering in those places is vinegar, used to fix the dies. The traditional colour used for designs is rust brown, obtained from an iron oxide mixture, but blue and green are also classics. Typical patterns range from flowers and vine leaves to peasant scenes.

HISTORICAL ROADS: ON THE TRAIL OF PILGRIMS The Via Francigena in Piacenza The Via Francigena (also called Francesca or Romea) was the road connecting Rome with France, probably one of the most important in the Middle Ages. In those times, millions of pilgrims speaking different languages and coming from different nations, cultures and social classes walked or rode the Via Francigena from Northern Europe on their way to Rome or Jerusalem. Some of them did it to fulfil a vow, some to have their prayers granted, some others to test their own limits. Whatever their motives, they all stopped over in Piacenza, which had at least 30 hospices, places where pilgrims could rest and form parties. They had names such as Sant’Antonio a Trebbia, San Cristoforo (near Piazzale Medaglie d’Oro), Ospedale della Misericordia (which stood where the church of San Giuseppe is now, in Via Campagna). San Sepolcro was a part of a Benedictine monastery, while Santa Brigida was a hospice for Irish pilgrims. The Via Francigena cut through Piacenza along the axis of today’s Via Taverna, Via Garibaldi, Via San Antonino and Via Scalabrini, where most hospices were concentrated. Here pilgrims would have found Santa Vittoria (at the sanctuary of Santa Maria di Campagna), Santa Brigida, Sant’Ilario, Santa Maria Maddalena at San Donnino and Sant’Antonino, over whose ruins the Palazzo Giacometti was built.

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The Via Francigena outside PIacenza If you want to spend a day as a medieval pilgrim, follow the Via Francigena, the road that from Northern Europe cut across Italy to Rome. One of the busiest pilgrim trails is documented by the small but precious journal of the Archbishop of Canterbury Sigeric, who lived around 1000 AD. The starting points of this itinerary can be either Fidenza, a mystical medieval town with a monumental cathedral, or San Pancrazio, which has an ancient parish church also used as a hospice and a rest-post for pilgrims. The various strands of the Via Francigena met in Fornovo di Taro, a town at the base of the Apennines, an important node between Emilia, Liguria and Tuscany. Fornovo features a handsome Romanesque church which dates back to the 11th century and several trekking paths offering breathtaking landscapes and mouth-watering food and wine. The Via Francigena went up to the mountain pass of the Cisa, where it crossed the Apennines towards the Tyrrhenian coast. Following this pilgrim road is not only an occasion to revive history, but also to see works of art, monuments and wonderful sights that would otherwise be left out of a typical tourist itinerary. This makes them all the more interesting!

A pilgrimage to the sanctuary of the Basilica of the Beata Vergine della Ghiara Building for this Basilica began in 1597, but it was decorated and frescoed during the first half of the 17th century. Following the plan of a Greek cross, it is an outstanding example of baroque art in Emilia. A miracle took place here in 1596, attracting flocks of pilgrims to Reggio: one Marchino, a young deaf and dumb boy, regained his voice and sense of hearing after praying in front of an icon of the Virgin. Inside there are precious frescoes celebrating the virtues of the Virgin and altarpieces by the best local artists of the 17th century. The “Giareda” handicrafts market, held here during the first week of September, dates back to the same period.

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Old towns and villages along the Via Cassìola The ancient Via Cassìola – a Latin diminutive for Via Cassia – was a main road connecting Modena with Pistoia in Tuscany, across the Apennines. It was also a pilgrim route connecting Emilia with Lucca and eventually Rome. One of the most interesting stops along the Via Cassìola around Bologna is Bazzano at the border between the provinces of Modena and Bologna: high up on a hill inhabited since the Iron Age, it has an imposing castle and a picturesque old town centre. Monteveglio is another fortified village with a beautiful abbey; it was part of the fiefdom of countess Matilda of Canossa and in 1092 it resisted the siege of emperor Henry IV. But these are just two of the fortresses and manors which top virtually every hill around Bologna. Others are the castle of Serravalle, the parish church and manor of Samoggia (which features in a 7th-century list of Byzantine castles that resisted the advance of the Lombard army) and the castle of Savigno, once used as a pilgrim hospice. In Santa Lucia di Roffeno there is an old church with a charming courtyard, while Castel d’Aiano has two 13th-century hospices. The next stops are Gaggio Montano and the Rocca Corneta, perched on one of the mountain passes in the Monti della Riva range, which dominates the Val Dardagna.

A pilgrimage along five religious itineraries These five itineraries will take you to several thousand-year-old parish churches around Ravenna, on the trail of Early Christian devotion. The first itinerary follows the ancient Via Romea which led to Rome through Venice and the cathedral and Byzantine churches of Ravenna, Classe and Cervia (the main sight here being the church of the Madonna del Pino). A second itinerary runs along the Agro Decimano and the Via Ravegnana which connect Classe and Ravenna with Cesena: highlights are the parish churches of San Pietro in Cistino, Santa Maria di Ronta, San Bartolomeo in San Zaccaria, Santo Stefano in Pisignano (where you will find one of the stone crosses that once dotted pilgrim routes), San Cassiano in Decimo in Campiano, San Pietro in Vincoli and San Pietro in Trento. Other itineraries are the Via Faentina between Ravenna and Brisighella, which touches on the churches of Russi, Godo, San Pancrazio, Faenza and Brisighella, or the itinerary of the hills surrounding the valley of the Senio (from Castel Bolognese to Casola Valsenio), running along the main Statale Casolana Riolese and crossing the Apennines to Tuscany. Lastly, there is an inland medieval itinerary heading north towards Bagnacavallo (with the church of San Pietro in Sylvis), which passes through Lugo, Argenta, Bagnara, Solarolo, Piangipane, Cotignola, Barbiano, Fabriago and Fusignano.

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Food and Wine

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Strada dei vini e dei sapori dei Colli Piacentini Strada del Culatello di Zibello Strada del Prosciutto e dei Vini dei Colli di Parma Strada del Fungo Porcino di Borgotaro Strada dei vini e dei sapori Colline di Scandiano e Canossa Strada dei vini e dei sapori delle Corti Reggiane Strada dei vini e dei sapori Città Castelli Ciliegi Strada dei vini e dei sapori della Pianura Modenese Strada dei vini e dei sapori dei Colli d’Imola Strada dei vini e dei sapori della Provincia di Ferrara Strada del Sangiovese e dei sapori delle Colline di Faenza Strada dei vini e dei sapori dei Colli di Forlì e Cesena Strada dei vini e dei sapori dei Colli di Rimini

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DOP and IGP local specialities Cured and fresh meat Prosciutto di Parma • DOP Prosciutto di Modena • DOP Culatello di Zibello • DOP Coppa piacentina • DOP Salame piacentino • DOP Pancetta piacentina • DOP Mortadella Bologna • IGP White Bullock from the Central Apennines • IGP Zampone Modena • IGP Cotechino Modena • IGP Cheese Parmigiano-Reggiano • DOP Grana Padano • DOP Provolone Valpadana • DOP Fruit and vegetables Shallots from Romagna • IGP Mushrooms from Borgotaro • IGP Chestnuts (marrone) from Castel del Rio • IGP Pears from Emilia-Romagna • IGP Peaches and nectarines from Romagna• IGP 146

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Olive oil Brisighella • DOP Vinegar Traditional balsamic vinegar from Modena • DOP Traditional balsamic vinegar from Reggio Emilia • DOP Bread The typical bread from Ferrara (coppia) 147


IAT Tourist offices IAT PIACENZA Piazza Cavalli, 7 – 29100 Piacenza Tel. : +39/0523/329.324 Fax : +39/0523/306.727 iat@comune.piacenza.it www.comune.piacenza.it/turismo

IAT FERRARA Castello Estense – 44100 Ferrara Tel. : +39/0532/299.303 Fax : +39/0532/212.266 Piazza Municipale Tel.: +39/0532/419.474 Fax : +39/0532/419.488 infotur@provincia.fe.it www.ferrarainfo.com

IAT PARMA Via Melloni, 1/a – 43100 Parma Tel. : +39/0521/218.889 – 218.855 Fax : +39/0521/234.735 turismo@comune.parma.it http://turismo.comune.parma.it/turismo

IAT RAVENNA Via Salara, 8/12 – 48100 Ravenna Tel. : +39/0544/357.55 – 354.04 Fax : +39/0544/482.670 iatravenna2@comune.ra.it iatravenna@comune.ra.it turismo@comune.ravenna.it www.turismo.ravenna.it

IAT REGGIO EMILIA Piazza Prampolini, 5/c 42100 Reggio Emilia Tel. : +39/0522/451.152 Fax : +39/0522/436.739 iat@municipio.re.it www.municipio.re.it/turismo

IAT FAENZA Piazza del Popolo, 1 - 48018 Faenza Tel. / Fax : +39/0546/252.31 prolocofaenza@racine.ra.it www.prolocofaenza.it www.racine.ra.it/faenza

IAT MODENA Via Scudari, 12 – 41100 Modena Tel. : +39/059/203.2660 Fax : +39/059/203.2659 iatmo@comune.modena.it www.comune.modena.it/infoturismo

IAT FORLÍ Piazzetta Novanta Pacifici, 2 – 47100 Forlì Tel. : +39/0543/712.435 Fax : +39/0543/712.450 – 712.755 iat@comune.forli.fo.it www.turismoforlivese.it www.comune.forli.fo.it www.cofo.it

IAT BOLOGNA Piazza Maggiore, 1 – 40121 Bologna Call Center Tel. : +39/051/246.541 Fax : +39/051/639.3171 TouristOffice@comune.bologna.it www.bolognaturismo.info

IAT RIMINI Piazzale Fellini, 3 – 47900 Rimini Tel. : +39/0541/569.02 Fax : +39/0541/565.98 infomarinacentro@comune.rimini.it www.comune.rimini.it www.riminiturismo.it

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Airports BOLOGNA G. MARCONI AIRPORT Via del Triumvirato, 84 Tel. : +39/051/647.9615 Open: 05.30 – 24.00 www.bologna-airport.it

PARMA G. VERDI AIRPORT Via dell’Aeroporto, 44/a Tel. : +39/0521/982.626 - 951.511 Open: 08.00 – 22.00 www.aeroportoparma.it info@aeroportoparma.it

RIMINI F. FELLINI AIRPORT Via Flaminia, 409 Miramare di Rimini Tel. : +39/0541/715.711 Open: 06.00 – 22.00 www.riminiairport.com aeradria@iper.net

FORLÍ L. RIDOLFI AIRPORT Via Seganti, 103 Tel. : +39/0543/474.990 Open: 06.00 – 24.00 amministrazione@forli-airport.it groundoperation@forli-airport.it www.forli-airport.it info@forli-airport.it 149


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Toll motorways, main roads, railroads Toll motorways in Emilia Romagna: A1 Milan – Naples A13 Bologna – Padua A14 Bologna – Bari – Taranto A15 Parma – La Spezia A21 Piacenza – Brescia A22 Modena – Brenner When leaving the motorway, you can pay toll: Cash (pay the toll collector) Credit card or international debit card (Viacard or Self Service lanes) Società Autostrade Spa Autostrade – Direzione III tronco – Bologna www.autostrade.it www.autostrade.it * for info on road and traffic conditions Tel. : +39/06/436.321.21 150

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= Seaports = Airports = Train stations = Moorings on the river Po = Main toll-free roads = Toll motorways 151


Tourist information websites: Unione di Prodotto Città d’Arte, Cultura e Affari (Union of Cities of Art, Culture and Business) www.cittadarte.emilia-romagna.it Unione di Prodotto Terme, Salute e Benessere (Union of Spa Resorts, Health and Wellness) www.emiliaromagnaterme.it Unione di Prodotto Appennino e Verde (Union of Mountain Resorts and Wildlife in the Apennines) www.appenninoeverde.org Unione di Prodotto Costa Adriatica (Union of Adriatic Seaside Resorts) www.adriacoast.com General information websites: Emilia Romagna www.emiliaromagnaturismo.it Ater – Emilia Romagna Theatre Association www.cartellone.emr.it

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Please send further information on events and offers of the cities of art in Emilia Romagna, with particular reference to: Piacenza Parma Reggio Emilia Modena Bologna Ferrara Ravenna Faenza Forlì-Cesena Rimini First name Surname Address Postcode Town/city Country Telephone Fax Website E-mail I hereby authorize APT Servizi S.r.l. to store and use my personal details with the sole aim of sending me further information and material (in compliance with the Italian law on privacy, L.675/96 art. 13)

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Notes/journal


Notes/journal


Editorial project: Apt Servizi s.r.l. Editorial coordination: Apt Servizi, Bologna Maria Staltari, Celestina Paglia Texts by: Daniela Camboni English translation: Ira Torresi Graphic project: Carmine Stellaccio www.gothanet.it Pictures courtesy of: Bologna Turismo Photo Archive Capatti - Clarence Carter Band (Bologna) E. Baracchi – FestivalFilosofia (Modena) F. Meneghetti – Detail of the portico of the San Carlo (Modena) G. Baucia – Palazzo dell’Istituzione Grazzano Visconti (Piacenza) G. Senni – Photo Archive of the Province of di Forlì - Cesena L. Franchi – Aerial photo of Bobbio (Piacenza) M.R. Pezza – Terraced garden with tower, Guaita Valle Vigoleno (Piacenza) N. Mascardi, P. Barone for Apt Servizi Photo Archive Information and other material courtesy of: The Provinces and Municipalities of Piacenza, Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini; the Province of Forlì–Cesena; the Municipalities of Forlì and Faenza; the private members of Unione di Prodotto Città d’Arte, Cultura ed Affari; the Airports of Bologna, Forlì, Parma and Rimini; Ferrovie dello Stato; Società Autostrade Spa.

Printed in November 2005 in Ozzano nell’Emilia – Bologna, by Calderini Officine Grafiche. No picture or image contained in this volume may be reproduced or copied by any means.


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Indice/ Contents/ Inhalt/ Index I Soci privati dell’Unione di Prodotto Città d’Arte, Cultura ed Affari Private members of “Cities of Art” Private Mitglieder der Kunst, Kultur und Geschäftsstädte Associés Privés des Villes d’Art 3 Italiano Proposte commerciali dei soci privati della Provincia di : Piacenza Parma Reggio Emilia Modena Bologna Ferrara Ravenna Forlì-Cesena Rimini

7 7 11 11 13 15 16 19 19

English Offers of the private members of the “Province” of: Piacenza Parma Reggio Emilia Modena Bologna Ferrara Ravenna Forlì-Cesena Rimini

22 22 26 26 28 30 31 34 34

Deutsch Angebote privater Mitglieder der Provinz: Piacenza Parma Reggio Emilia Modena Bologna Ferrara Ravenna Forlì-Cesena Rimini

37 37 41 41 43 45 46 49 49

Français Offres commerciales des associés privés de la province de: Plaisance Parme Reggio d’Émilie Modène Bologne Ferrare Ravenne Forli-Cesena Rimini

52 52 56 56 58 60 61 64 64


Legenda/Key to simbols/ Legende/Légende

A e S T F i w Arte e Cultura/ Art and Culture/ Kunst und Kultur/ Art et Culture

Musica e Teatro/ Music and Theatre/ Musik und Theater/ Musique et Théâtre

Motori e Sport/ Motors and Sports/ Sport und Motoren/ Moteurs et Sport

Enogastronomia/ Food and Wine/ Weine und Gastronomie/ Œnogastronomie

Scolastico/ School Trips/Schulreisen/ Scolaire

Congressuale/ Meetings and Conferences/ Kongresse/ Congrès

P V T F i w

P D S T F i w

I V T F i w

P V T F p w

P S T F p

2


PIACENZA Associazione Asshotels di Piacenza e Provincia Strada Bobbiese, 2 – 29100 Piacenza Tel. : +39/0523/461.811 Fax : +39/0523/451.427 info@unionecommerciantipc.it www.unionecommerciantipc.it Piacenza Turismi s.r.l. Via S. Siro, 27 – 29100 Piacenza Tel. : +39/0523/305.254 Fax : +39/0523/309.298 infotur@piacenzaturismi.net www.piacenzaturismi.net PARMA Dimore d’Epoca Strada Casello Poldi 58 – 43100 Parma Tel. : +39/0521/774.039 Fax : +39/0521/780.756 info@dimoredepoca.it www.dimoredepoca.it Inc Hotels & Restaurants Via Reggio, 51a – 43100 Parma Tel. : +39/0521/952.642 Fax : +39/0521/992.317 info@inchotels.com www.inchotels.com Parma Incoming s.r.l. Via Abbeveratoia, 63/a – 43100 Parma Tel. : +39/0521/298.883 – 298.829 Fax : +39/0521/298.826 parmaincoming@ascom.pr.it www.parmaincoming.it Parma Turismi s.r.l. Strada Repubblica, 45 – 43100 Parma Tel. : +39/0521/228.152 Fax : +39/0521/223.161 parma.turismi@tin.it

PromoParma - Consorzio Albergatori Parma e Provincia Via Abbeveratoia, 63/A – 43100 Parma Tel. : +39/0521/298.883 - 298.829 Fax : +39/0521/298.826 promoparma@ascom.pr.it www.promoparma.it

Società d’Area per Salsomaggiore e Tabiano Terme s.c.a.r.l. Galleria Warowland P.le Berzieri 5 43039 Salsomaggiore Terme (PR) Tel. : +39/0524/571.295-577.112 Fax : +39/0524/580.000 societarea@libero.it www.turismo.comune.salsomaggiore-terme.pr.it

Terre Emiliane Via Malpeli, 126 43036 Fidenza (PR) Tel. : +39/0524/533.500 Fax : +39/0524/530.047 info@terreemiliane.com www.terreemiliane.com

Và Pensiero Viaggi Via Pasini,1 43011 Busseto (PR) Tel. : +39/0524/917.08 Fax : +39/0524/930.598 info@vapensieroviaggi.com www.vapensieroviaggi.com

REGGIO EMILIA Club di Prodotto Reggio Tricolore Via Roma, 11 – 42100 Reggio Emilia Tel. : +39/0522/433.996 Fax : +39/0522/496.786 clubdiprodotto@ascomre.com www.reggiotricolore.com

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MODENA Modenatur s.c.a.r.l. Via Scudari,10 – 41100 Modena Tel. : +39/059/220.022 Fax : +39/059/203.2688 info@modenatur.it www.modenatur.it

Axis – Emilia Romagna Convention Towns Piazza Costituzione, 4/a – 40128 Bologna Tel. : +39/051/637.5111 Fax : +39/051/637.5170 axis@bolognacongressi.it www.axisweb.it

Modena Incoming s.c.a.r.l. Via Scudari, 8 – 41100 Modena Tel. : +39/059/245.722 Fax : +39/059/203.2688 info@modenaincoming.it www.modenaincoming.it

Bologna Congressi s.p.a. Piazza Costituzione, 4/a – 40128 Bologna Tel. : +39/051/637.5111 Fax : +39/051/637.5170 info@bolognacongressi.it www.bolognacongressi.it

Motorsite Via Scudari, 10 – 41100 Modena Tel. : +39/059/218.264 Fax : +39/059/203.2688 info@motorsite.it www.motorsite.it

BOLOGNA Associazione Italiana Alberghi per la Gioventù – Emilia Romagna Via dell’Unione, 6/A – 40126 Bologna Tel. / Fax : +39/051/224.913 aig_bo@iperbole.bologna.it www.hostels-emiliaromagna.it Art Cities Emilia Romagna Via Don Bedetti, 26 – 40129 Bologna Tel. : +39/051/638.0311 - 270.365 Fax : +39/051/325.502 confes@confesercentiemiliaromagna.it A.T.I. Sogima Hotels Via A.Fioravanti, 42/2 – 40129 Bologna Tel. : +39/051/356.663 Fax : +39/051/352.202 Sogimahotels@libero.it www.astor-hotel.it

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Bologna oltre il 2000 Strada Maggiore, 23 – 40125 Bologna Tel. : +39/051/221.736 Fax : +39/051/648.7673 assalb@iperbole.bologna.it www.bolognabreak.it Club di Prodotto Città Arte e Turismo Via A.Tiarini, 22 – 40129 Bologna Tel. : +39/051/415.6060 Fax : +39/051/415.6061 emiliaromagna@confcommercio.it www.buyemiliaromagna.it Comitato Ospitalità del centro storico di Bologna e delle sue Ville Via De’ Pignattari, 11 – 40121 Bologna Tel. : +39/ 051/745.7211 - 212 Fax : +39/051/745.7227 ospitalita@bolognaitaly.it www.bolognaitaly.it

Emilia Romagna Golf Via Sabattini, 69 - 40050 Monte S.Pietro(BO) Tel. / Fax : +39/051/266.277 info@emiliaromagnagolf.com www.emililaromagnagolf.com


Emilia Viaggi s.n.c Via Del Pratello, 2b – 40122 Bologna Tel. : +39/051/227.657 Fax : +39/051/220.286 evincoming@emiliaviaggi.it www.emiliaviaggi.it

Ospitalità a Bologna Via De’ Pignattari,11 – 40124 Bologna Tel. : +39/051/745.7211 - 212 Fax : +39/051/745.7227 ospitalitabologna@inbo.it www.bolognaitaly.it

S.T.A.I. - Società Turismo Area Imolese s.c.a.r.l. Via Boccaccio, 27 40026 - Imola (B0) Tel. : +39/0542/254.13 Fax : +39/0542/613.252 stai@stai.it www.stai.it

FERRARA Cento Carnevale d’Europa Via Risorgimento, 38 – 44042 Cento (FE) Tel. : +39/051/904.257 - 904.252 Fax : +39/051/683.2230 info@carnevalecento.com www.carnevalecento.com

Consorzio Ferrara Arte e Natura s.c.a.r.l. Corso Porta Reno, 11 – 44100 Ferrara Tel. : +39/0532/200.045 Fax : +39/0532/214.595 info@ferraraartenatura.com www.ferraraartenatura.com

Ferrara Fiere Congressi s.r.l. Via della Fiera, 11 – 44100 Ferrara Tel. : +39/0532/900.713 Fax : +39/0532/976.997 info@ferrarafiere.it www.ferrafiere.it

RAVENNA Ias & Co Viale Stazione 7/a-9 – 48015 Cervia (RA) Tel. : +39/0544/970.289 Fax : +39/0544/972.307 ias@iastourist.com www.iastourist.it

Società D’ Area Terre di Faenza s.r.l. Corso Matteotti, 40 - 48025 Riolo Terme (RA) Tel. : +39/0546/710.44 Fax : +39/0546/719.32 iat.rioloterme@racine.ra.it www.terredifaenza.it

Teodorico Holiday s.r.l. Via di Roma, 60 – 48100 Ravenna Tel. : +39/0544/322.17 Fax : +39/0544/324.02 teodoric@tin.it www.teodoricoholiday.com

M&TE Via di Roma, 63 - 48100 Ravenna Tel. : +39/0544/217.522 Fax : +39/0544/337.21 info@guidarelloviaggi.com www.guidarelloviaggi.com

5


Viaggi Generali s.r.l. Via De Gasperi, 19 – 48100 Ravenna Tel. : +39/0544/311.22 Fax : +39/0544/322.28 info@viaggigenerali.it www.viaggigenerali.it

FORLÌ - CESENA Associazione Forlì – Arte, Turismo e Congressi Piazzale della Vittoria, 23 – 47100 Forlì Tel. : +39/0543/378.068 Fax : +39/0543/456.336 turismo@confcommercio.fo.it www.romagnafulltime.it

Club di Prodotto Territori Malatestiani Via Cerchia San Giorgio, 145 47023 Cesena (FC) Tel.: +39/0547/639.803 Fax : +39/0547/638.322 a.riccardi@catcesena.it RIMINI Associazione Castelli e Dimore Storiche di Romagna Viale veneto, 17 - 47838 Riccione (RN) Tel. : +39/0541/641.205 Fax : +39/0541/641.205 info@castelliedimorestoriche.com www.castelliedimorestoriche.com

Associazione Riccione Incontri Corso Fratelli Cervi, 76/a -47838 Riccione (RN) Tel. : +39/0541/604.160 Fax : +39/0541/601.775 info@riccionecongressi.com www.riccionecongressi.com

6

Bellavista Tour s.r.l. – Initium Via Flaminia, 188 – 47900 Rimini Tel. : +39/0541/378.881 Fax : +39/0541/378.889 info@tourculturali.com www.tourculturali.com Convention Bureau della Riviera di Rimini Via della Fiera, 52 – 47900 Rimini Tel. : +39/0541/711.500 Fax : +39/0541/711.505 info@riminiconvention.it www.riminiconvention.it Foschilandia T.O. s.r.l. Viale della Repubblica, 96 – 47900 Rimini Tel. : +39/0541/395.161 Fax : +39/0541/395.162 info@foschilandia.it www.foschilandia.it Luveria Viaggi s.n.c. Via Tiberio, 31/33 – 47900 Rimini Tel. : +39/0541/296.99 Fax : +39/0541/565.45 info@luveria.it www.luveria.it Rimini Exibition Hotels Via Maccanno, 38q – 47900 Rimini Tel. : +39/0541/392.274 Fax : +39/0541/390.029 business@rexhotels.it www.rexhotels.it Riminicentive.it Via A.Vespucci, 39 – 47900 Rimini Tel. : +39/0541/268.67 Fax : +39/0541/627.450 rimini@riminincentive.it www.riminincentive.it


• PIACENZA MUSIC BETWEEN HISTORY AND LEGEND WHERE: HTL*** in Piacenza, 1BB in double room, 1 free entrance and visit to the Gropparello Castle, 1 medieval lunch, 1 lunch/sampling of typical products in a wineproducing farm, 1 dinner in a restaurant, tour guide for 2 days WHEN: week-ends 2006 (2 days/1 night) COST: from euro 136,00 pp (min. 25 persons); single room supplement from euro 15,00. INFO: Piacenza Turismi -Tel. +39/0523/305.254, Fax +39/0523/309.298, infotur@piacenzaturismi.net

CULTURE AND FLAVOURS WHERE: HTL *** in Piacenza, 1BB in double room, free entrance and visit to the museums of Farnese Palace and Rivalta Castle, 1 brunch, 1 typical lunch, 1 dinner in a restaurant, tour guide for 2 days WHEN: week-ends 2006 (2 days/1 night) COST: from euro 136,00 pp (min. 25 persons); single room supplement from euro 15,00. INFO: Piacenza Turismi -Tel. +39/0523/305.254, Fax +39/0523/309.298, infotur@piacenzaturismi.net

• PARMA MUSIC, FOOD AND WINE IN CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES WHERE: Castles and stately homes in Parma, Soragna, Vigoleno and Ravenna, 2BB in double room, 1 dinner with tasting of local products. The cities of art of Emilia Romagna have arranged a rich program of music events and samplings of local food and wine in the Verdi country. From Ravenna to Busseto and Parma, there is a wide range of offers among which to choose. The offer does not include the reservation and admission ticket for the events chosen by participants. WHEN: week-ends in 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 130,00 pp (min. 2 persons) INFO: Dimore D’Epoca – Tel. +39/0521/774.039 Fax +39/0521/780756 info@dimoredepoca.it 22


PARMA: AN ITINERARY AMONG COURTS, ART AND CUISINE WHERE: HTL*** in Parma, 2BB in double room, 1 typical dinner in a restaurant of the old town centre (drinks not included), guided tours to 4 castles of the former Duchy of Parma and Piacenza: the palace of Colorno, the fortresses in Sala Baganza and Fontanellato, and the castle of Monteghiarugolo. Those medieval, Renaissance and baroque buildings (some among the most well-preserved in Italy) illustrate the history of local and national architecture, politics and society. Brochures/guides. WHEN: week-ends in 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 150,00 pp (min. 2 persons) INFO: INC Hotels & Restaurantes – Viaggi Generali Tel. +39/0544/311.22 Fax +39/0544/322.28 info@viaggigenerali.it, www.viaggigenerali.it

THE HISTORY AND TASTES OF PARMA WHERE: HTL*** in Parma, 2BB in double room, 1 typical dinner in a restaurant of the old town centre (drinks not included), visit to a wine producer on the hills around Parma (with samplings), guided tour to the palace of Colorno. Brochures/guides. WHEN: week-ends in 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 140,00 pp (min. 2 persons) INFO: INC Hotels & Restaurantes – Viaggi Generali Tel. +39/0544/311.22 Fax +39/0544/322.28 info@viaggigenerali.it, www.viaggigenerali.it

PARMA, A TASTE OF EVERYTHING WHERE: HTL***/****/*****, castles or stately homes in or around Parma, 2BB in double room, guided tours to the towns where Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma and Culatello di Zibello are made; visits to splendid fortresses whether in the plain or on the hills, and the treasures of the old town centre of Parma. Lunches and samplings in local restaurants and castles. A mouth-watering itinerary along the local Food and Wine Trail. WHEN: week-ends in 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 130,00 pp, single room supplement euro 34,00 pp (min. 15 persons) INFO: Parma Incoming – Tel. +39/0521/298.883 Fax +39/0521/298.826 parmaincoming@ascom.pr.it, www.parmaincoming.it 23


GOLFING IN PARMA: SPORT, HISTORY AND GOOD FOOD WHERE: HTL***/****/***** in or around Parma, 4BB in double room, 3 green fees, guided tours to the towns where Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, Culatello di Zibello and traditional balsamic vinegar are made; 2 dinners in typical restaurants, 2 lunches in the Golf Club House. A circuit with 3 perfect golf courses between the Po valley and gently sloping hills: Salsomaggiore Golf & Country Club, Golf Club La Rocca, Golf Club Matilde di Canossa. The surrounding area holds treasures such as castles, churches, lovely old town centres and cellars where the local salami are cured. WHEN: 2006 (5 days/4 nights) COST: from euro 362,00 pp, single room supplement euro 68,00 pp (min. 15 persons) INFO: Parma Incoming - Tel. +39/0521/298.883 Fax +39/0521/298.826 parmaincoming@ascom.pr.it, www.parmaincoming.it

ART NOUVEAU WELLNESS WHERE: HTL**/***/**** in Salsomaggiore Terme, 2HB in double room, free entrance to one of the castles of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza, spa package including 1 aromatic bath, 2 hand massages with essential oils, 1 aromatic mud bath, 1 French shower, 2 aromatic facial treatments, herb teas, 1 admission to the thermal pool with personal trainer. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 365,00 pp INFO: Società d’Area Salsomaggiore e Tabiano Terme – ADAST Tel. +39/0524/575.375 Fax +39/0524/572.958 adast@tin.it

WELLNESS AND BEAUTY WHERE: HTL***/**** in Monticelli, 3BB in double room, guided tour of Parma (half day), trip to Valditacca, Pianadetto, Trefiumi with typical lunch in a farm, trip to the Parco delle 5 Terre, possibly a meeting with a naturopathist or a trek along the Sentiero Azzurro), spa package including 1 hydromassage, 1 massage and 1 admission to the thermal pool. Optional service not included in the offer: guided tour to Piacenza, Ferrara or Bologna (half day). WHEN: week-ends in 2006 (4 days/3 nights) COST: from euro 410,00 pp INFO: Terre Emiliane – Tel. +39/0524/533.500 Fax +39/0524/530.047 info@terreemiliane.com, www.terreemiliane.com

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THE TASTE SCHOOL WHERE: HTL***/**** in or around Parma, 2BB in double room, guided tour of Parma (half day). Practical cookery courses with final diploma at the Barilla academy, to learn how to prepare the traditional dishes of Emilia. A tour of dairies producing Parmigiano Reggiano and ham-curing facilities, trips to the Parco dei Cento Laghi, one of the most romantic wildlife reserves of the surroundings, samplings of local products. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 510,00 pp INFO: Terre Emiliane – Tel. +39/0524/533.500 Fax +39/0524/530.047 info@terreemiliane.com, www.terreemiliane.com

ON A SWAN’S WINGS WHERE: HTL***/**** in Busseto, Parma, Salsomaggiore and Piacenza, 2BB in double room, 1 ticket for an opera at the Teatro G. Verdi in Busseto, the Teatro Regio in Parma or the Teatro Municipale in Piacenza, admissions to the museums of the Verdi country (Verdi’s home and the church of San Michele in Roncole Verdi, Casa Barezzi in Busseto and Villa Verdi in Sant’Agata), tour of the Museo del Parmigiano Reggiano in Soragna and to a cellar where Culatello di Zibello is cured in Polesine Parmense, samplings and typical lunch, cruise on the river Po. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 259,00 pp, single room supplement euro 20,00 pp INFO: Và Pensiero Viaggi – Tel. +39/0524/917.08 Fax +39/0524/930.598 info@vapensieroviaggi.com, www.vapensieroviaggi.com

HOLE IN ONE WHERE: HTL***/**** in Parma and Salsomaggiore, 3BB in double room, 3 green fees to be used at the following golf courses: Salsomaggiore Golf & Country Club, Golf Club La Rocca in Sala Baganza, Golf Club Castell’Arquato, Croara Country Club, Modena Golf and Country Club and Golf Club Matilde di Canossa. Typical dinner on request. A fascinating itinerary that starts from the splendid spa resort of Salsomaggiore Terme on the foothills of the Apennines and winds its way through the wonderful greens of Emilia, from Piacenza to Modena. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 289,00 pp, single room supplement euro 20,00 pp, supplement for typical dinner euro 29,00. INFO: Và Pensiero Viaggi – Tel. +39/0524/917.08 Fax +39/0524/930.598 info@vapensieroviaggi.com, www.vapensieroviaggi.com 25


• REGGIO EMILIA SIGHTSEEING IN REGGIO EMILIA: AN ITINERARY BETWEEN ART, HISTORY AND TYPICAL CUISINE WHERE: HTL***/**** in Reggio Emilia, 1BB in double room, 1 typical dinner, 1 typical lunch, admission to the castle of Rossena (which, perched on a spur of dark red volcanic rock, offers one of the finest views of the former lands of Matilda of Canossa) and to the castle of Montecchio (a fortified manor dating from Matilda’s time and holding important monuments, such as a Carolingian cemetery from the 8th-10th century and the medieval dungeon with its original furniture, graffiti and relief engraved by prisoners). Visit to a producer of local specialities. WHEN: 2006 (2 days/1 night) COST: from euro 121,00 pp HTL***, from euro 132,00 pp HTL**** (HB quotations available on request) INFO: Club di Prodotto Reggio Tricolore - Balenottera Viaggi Tel. +39/0522/454.459 fax +39/0522/537.434

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W l D a P W C I i

ALONG THE RIVER PO

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WHERE: HTL***/**** in and around Reggio Emilia, 1BB in double room, 1 typical dinner, 1 typical lunch, admission and guided tour to the Palazzo dei Principi in Correggio, the Corte di San Bernardino, the Museo del Po e della Navigazione Interna, and the Museo Casa Pontieri “Dino Gialdini” in Boretto. Quotations for cruises on the river Po are available on request. All cruises board from the jetty in Boretto; suggested itineraries are BorettoMantova, Boretto-Busseto, Boretto-Ferrara or Boretto-Venice, all of them leaving some spare time to visit the destination. WHEN: 2006 (2 days/1 night) COST: from euro 115,00 pp HTL***, from euro 126,00 pp HTL**** (HB quotations available on request) INFO: Club di Prodotto Reggio Tricolore - Balenottera Viaggi Tel. +39/0522/454.459 fax +39/0522/537.434

W t t s f t W C I i

• MODENA A “BALSAMIC” WEEKEND

WHERE: HTL***/**** in a holiday farm in or around Modena, 1 BB in double room, 1 visit to a farmhouse producing traditional balsamic vinegar, dinner in a restaurant offering vinegar-based dishes. During the “Balsamico è” event in May and June, participants may follow a 3-hour long cookery lesson with samplings of the dishes prepared by the students. A weekend to learn more and taste the real DOP Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, matured and decanted in wooden barrels in the local acetaie. WHEN: 2006 (2 days/1 night) COST: from euro 90,00 pp (min. 2 persons, subject to availability). Supplement for the cookery lesson euro 70,00 pp INFO: Modena Incoming - Tel. +39/059/203.2688, Fax +39/059/206.688, info@modenaincoming.it, www.modenaincoming.it

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A DELICIOUS WEEKEND IN THE PLAINS WHERE: HTL***/**** or holiday farm around Modena, 1BB in double room, 1 typical lunch, 1 dinner with dishes based on balsamic vinegar, visit to a farm (acetaia) producing DOP traditional balsamic vinegar and to a wine producer, with samplings. An itinerary along the Food and wine trail of the plain around Modena (Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori della Pianura Modenese). Welcome kit with literature on the surrounding area. WHEN: 2006 (2 days/1 night) COST: from euro 145,00 pp (min. 2 persons, subject to availability) INFO: Modena Incoming - Tel. +39/059/203.2688, Fax +39/059/206.688 info@modenaincoming.it, www.modenaincoming.it

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ART, FOOD, WINE AND...MOTORS WHERE: HTL***/**** or holiday farm in or around Modena, 2BB in double room, 1 typical dinner, visit to a farm (acetaia) producing DOP traditional balsamic vinegar, 1 block ticket including the Musei Civici, the Galleria Estense and the Musei del Duomo, 1 admission to the Galleria Ferrari (the great museum illustrating the history of the flame-red cars from Maranello and their maker, Enzo Ferrari). Welcome kit with literature on Modena and the surrounding area. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 165,00 pp (min. 2 persons, subject to availability) INFO: Modenatur – Tel. +39/059/220.022 Fax +39/059/203.2688, info@modenatur.it, www.modenatur.it

“2005 EVENTS” OFFER IN AND AROUND MODENA WHERE:HTL***/**** or holiday farm in or around Modena, 1BB in double room, 1 typical dinner, visit to a farm (acetaia) producing DOP traditional balsamic vinegar, 1 admission to one of the following exhibitions: Action Painting (Modena), The Artist and Her Self (Modena), XII Biennale of Contemporary Woodcut (Carpi), Painted Stories: Nicolo dell’Abate and 16th-century painting from Modena to Paris (Modena). Welcome kit with literature on Modena and the surrounding area. WHEN: 2006, during the exhibitions (2 days/1 night) COST: from euro 75,00 pp (min. 2 persons, subject to availability) INFO: Modenatur – Tel. +39/059/203.2688, Fax +39/059/206.688, info@modenatur.it www.modenatur.it 27


MODENA AND IMOLA: LANDS OF MOTORS AND GOOD CUISINE

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WHERE: HTL***/**** or holiday farm in or around Modena, 2BB in double room, 1 dinner in a restaurant, visit to a vintage car collection in or around Modena, 1 admission to the Galleria Ferrari in Maranello by the Ferrari factory. Visit to a wine producer located along the Food and wine trail of the hills around Imola, and to a farm (acetaia) producing DOP traditional balsamic vinegar, with samplings. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 170,00 pp (min. 2 persons, subject to availability) INFO: Motorsite - Tel. +39/059/218.264 Fax +39/059/2032.688, info@motorsite.it, www.motorsite.it

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A WEEKEND IN THE “LAND OF MOTORS”

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WHERE: HTL***/**** or holiday farm in or around Modena, 1BB in double room, 1 admission to the Galleria Ferrari in Maranello, 1 visit to a vintage car collection in or around Modena, 1 traditional dinner in a restaurant. Emilia Romagna is full of motor-related places and events. The vast number of automobile factories, tracks, dedicated events, museums and private collections makes the local area an unparalleled paradise for car and motorbike fans. WHEN: 2006 (2 days/1 night) COST: euro 150,00 pp (min. 2 persons, subject to availability) INFO: Motorsite - Tel. +39/059/218.264 Fax +39/059/2032.688, info@motorsite.it, www.motorsite.it

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• BOLOGNA GOLFING IN EMILIA ROMAGNA...MUCH MORE THAN A HOLIDAY! WHERE: HTL**/***/**** in Piacenza, Parma, Salsomaggiore Terme, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, Castel San Pietro Terme, Ferrara, Cervia, Milano Marittima and Rimini, 7BB in double room, 5 green fees to be used in the 18-hole courses of the Emilia Romagna Golf Circuit. On request: transfers, group holidays, rent-a-car, light lunches in Golf Club Houses, trips to cities of art, dinners in typical restaurants, admissions to fitness centres and spas, one-to-one and group golf lessons. WHEN: 2 January - 23 December 2006 (8 days/7 nights) COST: from euro 485,00 pp HTL***, euro 525,00 pp HTL****, euro 600,00 pp HTL**** superior, euro 770,00 pp HTL***** (min. 2 persons) INFO: Emilia Romagna Golf – Romagna Vacanze Tel. + 39/0544/973.340 Fax +39/0544/972.911 info@emiliaromagnagolf.com, www.emiliaromagnagolf.com 28

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A CHEAP AND SMART WAY TO GET TO KNOW BOLOGNA WHERE: HTL*** in Bologna, 3BB in double room, block ticket valid for all the museums of Bologna, late check out (3 pm), welcome drink, private garage and/or car park. A great opportunity to visit Bologna. On request, guided tours to the main sights of the old town centre and meals in top-of-the-range restaurants at particularly low prices. WHEN: 2006 (4 days/3 nights) COST: from euro 110,00 pp HTL*** (min. 2 persons, subject to availability) excluding the periods of main exhibitions INFO: Sogima – Tel. + 39/051/356.663 Fax +39/051/352.202 sogimahotels@libero.it, www.astor-hotel.it

A GOURMAND’S PARADISE WHERE: HTL***/**** in Bologna and Imola, 2/3HB in double room, samplings of local specialities, brochures/guides. An itinerary from Modena to Forlì, on the scent of typical products: from traditional balsamic vinegar to lambrusco wine, from the typical salami of Modena to the regional wine shop in Dozza (a town covered in murals), from Brisighella, with its fairytale castle and precious olive oil, to Sogliano al Rubicone and its formaggio di fossa. Guided tours or technical assistance might be provided, depending on the number of participants. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights or 4 days/3 nights) COST: from euro 110,00 pp for 3 days/2 nights - from euro 140,00 pp for 4 days/3 nights (min. 2 persons, subject to availability) INFO: Sogima – Tel. + 39/051/356.663 Fax +39/051/352.202 sogimahotels@libero.it, www.astor-hotel.it

THE CHARMING BEAUTY OF OLD BUILDINGS AND GENTLE SLOPING HILLS WHERE: HTL**** in or around Imola, 1BB, tour of the fortresses and palaces of Caterina Sforza, visit of Dozza (a town covered in murals) and its Enoteca Regionale dell’EmiliaRomagna (regional wine shop), visit to the Museum of art ceramics, 2 lunches in typical restaurants, 1 gala dinner. WHEN: 2006 (2 days/1 night) COST: from euro 172,00 pp INFO: S.T.A.I. – Tel. +39/0542/254.13 Fax +39/0542/613.252 stai@stai.it, www.stai.it

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THE ROAR OF MOTORS AND THE MELODY OF NATURE

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WHERE: HTL *** , holiday farm or inn in or around Imola, 1HB, visit to the famous track “Enzo e Dino Ferrari”, trip to the Santerno and Sillaro valleys, tour of the bridge and the Palazzo Alidosi in Castel del Rio, visit to a wine producer with samplings, 2 lunches in typical restaurants, tourist guide. WHEN: 2006 (2 days/1 night) COST: from euro 141,00 pp (min. 20 persons) INFO: S.T.A.I. – Tel. +39/0542/254.13 Fax +39/0542/613.252 stai@stai.it www.stai.it

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• FERRARA FERRARA AND THE ART OF LIVING

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WHERE: “Estense” Youth Hostel in Ferrara, BB in rooms with 3/5 beds of family rooms. A cheap opportunity to see the town of the Este dynasty, one of the pearls of the Italian Renaissance, with outstanding gems such as the castle and the cathedral. It is no coincidence that the UNESCO has added Ferrara and the Po delta to its World Heritage List in 1995. Breathe in the atmosphere of a place where even everyday life becomes a work of art: here everybody takes part in the local cultural events, and popular traditions are cultivated as common heritage. WHEN: 2006 COST: euro 16,00 pp per day, euro 17,00 pp in family room INFO: A.I.G. Emilia Romagna – Tel./Fax + 39/051/224.913 aig_bo@iperbole.bologna.it, www.hostels-emiliaromagna.it

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AT THE COURT OF THE UNESCO WHERE: HTL**/***/**** in Ferrara, 1BB in double room, block ticket to museums, 1 typical dinner or lunch, “welcome bag” containing a pampapato cake. WHEN: 2006 (2 days/1 night) COST: HTL** from euro 60,00 pp; HTL*** from euro 75,00 pp; HTL**** from euro 93,00 pp. INFO: Consorzio Ferrara Arte e Natura – De Romei Viaggi Tel. +39/0532/243.239 Fax +39/0532/243.069 turismo@deromeiviaggi.it, www.ferraraartenatura.com 30


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THE FEELING OF FERRARA WHERE: HTL**/***/**** in Ferrara, 2BB in double room, block ticket to museums, 1 typical dinner and 1 typical lunch, “welcome bag” containing a pampapato cake, 1 admission at the Palazzo dei Diamanti, during the exhibitions. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: HTL** from euro 94,00 pp; HTL*** from euro 117,00 pp; HTL**** from euro 147,00 pp. INFO: Consorzio Ferrara Arte e Natura – De Romei Viaggi Tel. +39/0532/243.239 Fax +39/0532/243.069 turismo@deromeiviaggi.it, www.ferraraartenatura.com

• RAVENNA RAVENNA, THE CITY OF ART PAR EXCELLENCE WHERE: “Dante” Youth Hostel in Ravenna or “Antico convento di San Francesco” Youth Hostel in Bagnacavallo, BB in rooms with 3/5 beds of family rooms. A cheap opportunity to see Ravenna, the city of art and culture, the ancient city of mosaics. See its several monuments inscribed in the UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1996. Admissions to the main monuments available on request. WHEN: 2006 COST: per night, per person: euro 13,50 in Ravenna and euro 14,00 in Bagnacavallo – add 1,50 euro for accommodation in family rooms INFO: A.I.G. Emilia Romagna – Tel./Fax +39/051/224.913 aig_bo@iperbole.bologna.it, www.hostels-emiliaromagna.it

SIGHTS, TASTES AND PERFUMES OF THE HILLS OF ROMAGNA WHERE: A holiday farm in the middle of the countryside surrounding Ravenna, 2BB in double room, typical dinner (drinks included) in a restaurant housed in a 15th-century building in a charming medieval village, sampling of wine, oil on bread and cake (ciambella) in a local farm, and guided tour to a wine shop. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: euro 137,00 pp (min. 2 persons) INFO: M&te - Tel. +39/0544/217.522 Fax +39/0544/337.21 info@guidarelloviaggi.com, www.guidarelloviaggi.com 31


RAVENNA ALL THE YEAR ROUND: CULTURE, EVENTS, BEACHES, FUN AND WILDLIFE WHERE: HTL*** or rented flat in Ravenna, 2BB in double room, typical dinner and fish dinner (drinks included) in restaurants located in the old town centre, admission to the main monuments, brochures/guides. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: euro 158,00 pp (min. 2 persons) INFO: M&te- Tel. +39/0544/217.522 Fax +39/0544/337.21 info@guidarelloviaggi.com, www.guidarelloviaggi.com

TRADITIONAL FOOD AND WINE IN THE RELAIS DE CHARME ON THE HILLS AROUND FAENZA WHERE: Stately home in Brisighella, 2BB, welcome drink, 1 typical dinner in the hotel’s restaurant, 1 dinner in a renowned typical restaurant in Brisighella, visit to a wine producer with samplings, admission to the Museo Internazionale delle Ceramiche in Faenza (guided tour not provided). WHEN: week-ends in 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: euro 295,00 pp (min. 2 persons) INFO: Teodorico Holiday Agenzia Viaggi e Turismo Tel. +39/0544/322.17 Fax +39/0544/324.02 teodoric@tin.it www.teodoricoholiday.comt

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THE MAGIC OF MOSAICS IN RAVENNA

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WHERE: Stately home in the old town centre of Ravenna, 2BB, 1 dinner or lunch in an elegant restaurant in Ravenna, admission to the Domus del Triclinio and the Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra, admission to the monuments of the Diocese of Ravenna. WHEN: week-ends in 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: euro 180,00 pp (min. 2 persons) INFO:Teodorico Holiday Agenzia Viaggi e Turismo Tel. +39/0544/322.17 Fax +39/0544/324.02 teodoric@tin.it www.teodoricoholiday.com

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RELAX AND BEAUTY WHERE: HTL*** in Riolo Terme, 2HB in double room and wellness treatment in the famous Terme di Riolo spa resort. The treatment includes: 1 medical visit, 2 admissions to the thermal pool with specific hydromassage, 1 partial cosmetic body massage, 1 regenerating facial massage, 1 sunbed, free use of the gym. Customized treatments may be added. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 172,00 pp INFO: Terre di Faenza - M&te Tel. +39/0544/217.522 Fax +39/0544/337.21 info@guidarelloviaggi.com, www.guidarelloviaggi.com

ART AND CUISINE IN RAVENNA WHERE: HTL*** in Ravenna, 2BB, 1 brunch, 2 dinners, 1 block ticket including the main monuments, 1 guide to Ravenna, 1 admission to the Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra. WHEN: week-ends in 2006 (3 days/2 nights). Sundays and holidays subject to supplements COST: euro 150,00 pp Formula Jeans, euro 165,00 pp Formula Superior, euro 180,00 pp Formula Deluxe INFO: Viaggi Generali – Tel. +39/0544/311.22 Fax +39/0544/322.28 info@viaggigenerali.it, www.viaggigenerali.it

A MOUTH-WATERING WEEKEND IN ROMAGNA WHERE: HTL**** around Ravenna, 2BB, 2 typical dinners, admissions to exhibitions and archaeological sites in Ravenna. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) – Sundays and holidays subject to supplements COST: euro 220,00 pp INFO: Viaggi Generali – Tel. +39/0544/311.22 Fax +39/0544/322.28 info@viaggigenerali.it, www.viaggigenerali.it

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• FORLI-CESENA FUNCTIONALIST ARCHITECTURE, WELLNESS AND GASTRONOMY IN THE HEART OF ROMAGNA WHERE: HTL**** in Forlì/Castrocaro, 2 HB, free entrance to the wellness centre of Castrocaro Spa, which includes spa pool bath with Whirpool Bath, vascular hydrotherapy circuit, cave, sauna, turkish bath, alternately hot and cold water, immersion bath. One lunch in a typical restaurant. Visit Forlì and its surroundings to know its architectural history, experience a time dedicated to one’s own wellbeing and taste the delicacies of our homely cooking. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 225,00/pp (min. 2 persons) INFO: Forlì&Co -Tel.+39/0543/378.075 Fax +39/0543/456.336 turismo@confcommercio.fo.it, www.romagnafulltime.it

BETWEEN HISTORY AND LEGEND WHERE: HTL**/***/**** in and around Forlì, 2BB, guided tour (with English-speaking guide) to the medieval town and fortress of Castrocaro Terme, the nearby Renaissance town of Terra del Sole, the early 20th-century town of Predappio and the fascist architectures of Forlì. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 75,00 pp (min. 15 persons, subject to availability) INFO: Forlì&Co -Tel.+39/0543/378.075 Fax +39/0543/456.336 turismo@confcommercio.fo.it, www.romagnafulltime.it

• RIMINI FROM THE SEA TO THE HILLS OF THE LANDS OF THE MALATESTA ... ON THE SCENT OF TRADITIONAL CUISINE WHERE: HTL**/***/**** in Rimini, Riccione and Misano Adriatico, 7HB in double room, welcome cocktail, trip to medieval castles and towns, 1 typical Romagna dinner with a live show, evening dance in one of Italy’s most charming towns, dinner at the hotel with samplings of local specialities and wines from the lands of the Malatesta, gift. WHEN: 1 June – 12 September 2006 (8 days/7 nights) COST: from euro 305,00 pp (drinks at meals included) INFO: Ass. Castelli e Dimore Storiche di Romagna - Tel./Fax +39/0541/641.205 info@castelliedimorestoriche.com

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SEASIDE RESORTS FULL OF HISTORY...CULTURE AND RELAX WHERE: HTL**/***/**** in Rimini, Riccione and Misano Adriatico, 7HB in double room, guided tour to the ancient Roman monuments and Malatesta fortresses of Rimini, on the trail of one of the most famous locals, the maker of dreamlike ďŹ lms Federico Fellini. Dinner in a typical restaurant including the tastiest dishes of the cuisine of Romagna, guided visit to the historic Republic of San Marino, a land consecrated to freedom and full of medieval monuments such as towers, castles and palaces. Welcome gift. WHEN: 1 June – 12 September 2006 (8 days/7 nights) COST: from euro 325,00 (drinks at meals included) INFO: Ass. Castelli e Dimore Storiche di Romagna - Tel./Fax +39/0541/641.205 info@castelliedimorestoriche.com

A CLIMB TO THE CASTLE WHERE: HTL**** superior in Rimini, 2BB, welcome dinner with typical specialities. A tour of the castle of Montebello, home to the ghost of Azzurrina: transfer in a GT Bus to Montebello, uphill walk and exercises up to the medieval village, buffet of local delicacies in the courtyard of the castle with jugglers and musicians in medieval costumes. Visit to the fortress. Customized packages available on request. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 392,00 pp (min. 30/ max 50 persons), supplement for a double room used as a single room euro 80,00 INFO: Convention Bureau della Riviera di Rimini Tel. +39/0541/711.500 Fax +39/0541/711.505 info@riminiconvention.it, www.riminiconvention.it

NATURE AND RELAX WHERE: HTL**** superior in Rimini, 2BB, welcome dinner with local specialities. A tour to get to know the local beautiful landscapes, traditions, culture, food and wine: participants will be transferred on a minibus to an old farmhouse, where they may engage in activities such as horse-riding, trekking, orienteering, cookery lessons, swimming, massages and beauty treatments. WHEN: 2006 (3 days/2 nights) COST: from euro 190,00 pp (min. 30/ max 50 persons), supplement for a double room used as a single room euro 80,00 INFO: Convention Bureau della Riviera di Rimini Tel. +39/0541/711.500 Fax +39/0541/711.505 info@riminiconvention.it, www.riminiconvention.it 35


CASTLES, WINE AND GOOD CUISINE

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WHERE: HTL**** in Rimini, 2HB+2BB in double room, 1 dinner in a typical restaurant of Gradara, 1 typical dinner in Villa Verrucchio, 2 samplings of local wines and specialities, 2 HD+1FD, English-speaking tour guide. WHEN: 2006 except August (5 days/4 nights – 2HB+2BB) COST: from euro 230,00 pp (min. 20 persons) INFO: Foschilandia T.O. – Tel. +39/0541/395.161 Fax +39/0541/395.162 info@foschilandia.it, www.foschilandia.it

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CYCLING ALONG THE ROAD OF THE MALATESTA

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WHERE: HTL*** in or around Rimini, 6HB in double or multiple room, cycling itineraries through the gently sloping hills of the hinterland of Rimini, surrounded by unspoilt nature and evidence of the rule of the Malatesta. WHEN: 2006 except July and August (7 days/6 nights) COST: from euro 119,00 pp (students and schoolchildren in multiple rooms); from euro 149,00 pp (adults in double room), min. 20 persons INFO: Foschilandia T.O. – Tel. +39/0541/395.161 Fax +39/0541/395.162 info@foschilandia.it, www.foschilandia.it

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QUALITY HOSPITALITY IN AND AROUND RIMINI

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WHERE: HTL***/****/***** in Rimini, Riccione, Cattolica and Bellaria specializing in accommodation for exhibitions and congresses, where guests can find professional staff and the comfort of the most renowned hotels in and around Rimini. WHEN: 2006 (2 days/1 night) COST: from euro 59,00 INFO: Rex hotels – Tel. +39/0541/392.274 Fax +39/0541/390.029 business@rexhotels.it, www.rexhotels.it

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city of Art of Emilia Romagna  

Guide of city of Art in Italy (Emilia Romagna Region)

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