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4:30 p.m. Passeggiatta, Via Indipendenza Shops remain closed in Bologna from 1 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. As the sun sinks and shadows lengthen, twist your way back to the “high street of Bologna—Via Indipendenza —where you can indulge in a spot of window shopping, admiring the mix of local and international fashion brands. Suddenly, the street starts filling up with elegantly dressed locals and you’re an active member of the famous Italian tradition of the passeggiata. People sip coffee under the arcades, watching the flow of humanity. Day or night, walking under the beautiful arcades of this street is one of my enduring memories of Bolgona. Top Tip: On Saturdays, the historic square is closed to any form of traffic, making it perfect for pedestrians.

5:30 p.m. Osteria del Sole Perfect time for another pit stop. Duck into the maze

life. You can bring your own food here and have

of streets of the market and locate Vicolo Ranocchi

an inexpensive picnic with some gourmet treats

13, where you will find the locals spilling out into the

from the Quadrilatero. Wine by the glass—red or

street from the cities oldest wine bar, Osteria del Sole,

white—is just €2. Last time I came here, I had an excellent

which has been serving thirsty locals since 1465. The best thing about this place is its unprententious, relaxed vibe with a great mix of people from all walks of

Pignoletto. Have a few glasses as the day melts into night. Cost: Two glasses of Pignoletto: €4

6:30 P.m. Aperitivo at Lab Sedici In the evening, Via Zamboni—just a stone’s throw from

Dortmund for €6 and helped myself to the buffet. Magic.

the Due Torri—is choked with students indulging in the tradition of apertivo, an evening drink or cocktail that in many places is accompanied by a buffet. The tradition of aperitivo has its roots in Northern Italy, so it is something I would definitely recommend you try on your trip to the region. For the cost of a drink, you are allowed to enjoy a plate of food from the buffet. While it’s not meant to be a substitute for dinner, I have often been guilty of having the extra plate and overindulging myself. In Bologna, Lab Sedici is one of the best haunts for a traditional aperitivo. They offer an excellent range of beers and cocktails. I enjoyed a glass of DAB-

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