Issuu on Google+


Azmin is a very sweet girl from India whose goal in life is to get in to Central Saint Martin’s Womenswear design course. During her first month on the Fashion Folio course she received a task: Dress like her alter ego, a rockstar, for a whole week. She was feeling a bit lost and did not know where to go from that, as a challenge I had to make sure this special task worked out. My view on the “rockstar” project is what I like to call “Marie Antoinette goes to Tokyo”. Taking inspiration specially in the Fruits style of some harajuku girls and the famous pastel dresses worn by the infamous queen of france herself. This is what Azmin looked like when I met her.


FinlanD

THE OTHER SIDE OF MY WORLD GOING TO FINLAND HAS ALWAYS BEEN A DREAM FOR ME AND MY SISTER, IT WAS JUST HARD TO FIND A WAY TO GET THERE SINCE IT’S NOT A TOURISTIC DESTINATION AND FLIGHT TICKETS TEND TO BE VERY EXPENSIVE. “HIM” IS A FINNISH BAND WHICH I’VE BEEN FOND OF FOR THE PAST 8 YEARS, KNOWING THAT THEY WOULD PLAY ON THEIR ANNUARY NEW YEAR’S EVE WINTER FESTIVAL CALLED “HELLDONE”, I HAD TO LITERALLY HUNT TICKETS FOR 3 WEEKS AND WHEN I FINALLY GOT IT WE BOOKED THE AIRPLANE TICKETS AND ON THE 29 OF DECEMBER 2012 WE WENT TO FINLAND. FASCINATING, DIFFERENT AND CULTURALLY CHALLENGING, THE FINLAND EXPERIENCE IS SOMETHING THAT I’LL NEVER FORGET.


Hartnell to Amies


Hartnell to Amies: Couture by royal appointment London

The best of all: Insane hats by Frederick Fox The title “Couture by royal appointment” made me picture that this would be an bition filled with dresses that belonged to the Queen, however, there were way drawings of the queen than anything else. I thought I would see the queen’s ding dress, since it was designed by Hartnell himself, but turned out it was not

exhimore wedthere.


Well, the best of all for me was last, Frederick Fox’s hats were a surprise, I wasn’t expecting to see such an impressive collection of unusually interesting headpieces and hats. I just wish I could have seen some of Fox’ sketches or some of his research, since a lot of it really seemed almost surrealistic. In days of Gaga, seeing so much quality put together for impressive pieces made me understand why even the queen goes a bit wilder with the head section of her outfits.

Seeing the mannequins was a bit of a disappointment since they looked very cheap and had weird poses. Still, I fell in love with a velvet fur coat and a wedding dress that looked like it belonged to a medieval princess - even though they were both pieces from the 1920s - right at the beginning of the exhibition.

The selection of clothing was quite big but not always exciting. Some of the best were behind glass, but quite a number was easy to see. Truth is that a lot of it wasn’t well displayed to begin with, looking at the amount of clothing from a distance felt more exciting than examining it up close, especially because there were three rows of mannequins and taking a good look at the one in back was quite difficult. That said, the soundtrack was a complete plus, when I got to the end of the exhibition, on my way downstairs, I already felt like dancing, and some of the lyrics kept playing in my head. The combo was that I always feel uplifted and delighted to look at amazing clothing from the 1950s, but particularly at this time I could pay proper attention to how delicate and complex the details were, embroidery was a constant.

Cheap mannequin

Hartnell to Amies: Couture by Royal Appointment At the Fashion and Textiles Museum. 16 november 2012 23 february 2013


barroque bits the art of excess


Young Folks and we don’t care about the old folks Model: Laura Ferreira Wardrobe model’s own


And we don’t care about their own faults Talkin’ ‘bout our own style All we care ‘bout is talking Talking, baby, me and you The Kooks - Young Folks


drag me up being a transvertite around london is not easy Styling and concecpt by me Photography by julia v.k


Makeup, hair and clothing: Fernanda B.


do not feed the hipsters The Gutterslut ball special edition: Electing the “slut of the year�


At the Sound Factory, Whitechapel


saudades

The nights that mattered


Wildlife Photographer of the year I absolutely loved this exhibition and no, I’m not an vegan or an activist in pro of animals, it’s not that I don’t agree with the fact that they should have more rights, I just love meat too much (what probably includes me in the “douche” group of people). What led me to seeing it was the Raven picture from the poster spread everywhere in the tube, which I thought was quite intriguing. As I entered the exhibition i noticed the arrangement of the pictures (divided by section, covering endangered species, animals in their environment, behavior of birds, mammals and cold blooded animals, botanical realms, urban wildlife, creative visions, photojournalism and finally wildscapes) and the low lights created an atmosphere so the visitor could pay attention to the emotion in some photographs, and from something almost banal there really was a lot of emotion. It’s hard to specify, but there is something about animal portraits that makes them extremely heartwarming, Jim Brandenburg, member of the judging panel said that the images should stir within the viewer a sense of awe, wonder and emotion, that really does describe how I felt and even though I thought some of the winners were not the best ones, the selection was extremely enjoyable. Some might say that it’s mainly because the emotion in each picture looks familiar, almost human. But I think there lies some irony, the resemblance with human behavior really is quite big, but it’s the fact that we never learnt to respect animals that makes it soulful. Animal rights left aside, the photographic quality is relevant and unquestionable, it’s also worth taking the time to read what each photographer has to say about their pictures. However, one of the pictures that I thought was the most interesting with a sense of humor was taken by a 11 year old girl from countryside England, this is obviously not as clever as much of what you can find there since it was an result of accident, but the look of the intrigued fox makes it almost cartoonish and exciting. The series entitled “urban wildlife”, which displays animals in places once inhabited by humans, has a lot of dramatic lighting and really precise, unique shots, revealing once again an emotion that has lasted clearly a fraction of seconds, and is definitively amazing.


desenho


God’s own junkyard


Hollywod Costumes


Pages of his sketchbook in which he plays with photographs he has taken of different drapes.

Initial inspiration: Prep school, religion icons..


TRAGIC EMPTINESS Edwin is an ex student from the Fashion Folio course, he was in the program in 2011 and is now a first year student at the Womenswear pathway at CSM. I met with him to see what he was up to and learn more about the womenswear experience. Since I was mainly curious about how is the pressure and how he would be getting along in a such a famous course, I had to ask him what “sucked” at this point - even when things are going great, there is always the sucky part- and it seems like the glory of it all remains very glorious for him, maybe I was expecting something more dramatic, but it’s all very normal. What I had seen from his previous work was an aesthetic that seemed clean, easy on the eyes, but at the same time promising, like if it was hiding a deep meaning. It’s classic with a twist. In this new project - the shirt project - it was no different. With a concept that grows in me every time I think about it, I consider this to be already a success, but the interesting part is that if you look at the shirt one time you might miss the relevant details, like the sleeves that were turned into decoration and the cut in the back. His concept is “Ideals”, which are basically perfect ideas we put in our heads so we can have ambitions and dreams. Unattainable and over estimated they end up being tragic. “Imagine your ideals, you put all your heart into them and they are never real” said Edwin. Looking at the “white shirt” concept and having studied in a prep school, it is easy to see the irony in it and where he is coming from, as he said: “I went to prep school, thinking of it as a uniform, it represents an ideal vision of what you should or should not be, but behind the scenes there is alway naughty things going on, so that just means it’s all an empty ideal”. Now the design process might sound easier than it is, he started looking at pictures from his own prep school and added some religion figures to the mix to have this “empty ideal” tied up, and from there it’s basically all about moving lines around and draping. But all of these were just influences towards his final shirt, since he says that “All I wanted was an beautiful shirt, light and easy”. I say that he has got it.


qause