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WELCOME CONTRIBUTORS

CONTENTS

Illustrators:

All Day Session Beers

Eva Dolgyra Originally from Athens, Eva moved to Glasgow to study Illustration at the Glasgow School of Art 9 years ago. From Polish book covers to African folk art, her influences cover a wide spectrum both thematically and geographically, with a particular fondness for themes touching on the strange, the bizarre and the imaginary. Something strongly reflected in her work is her soft spot for traditional printmaking. www.evadolgyra.co.uk Richard Manders. Invented concrete. Illustrator currently studying for his masters at Camberwell UAL. Interested in all projects in need of illustration. www.themantrout.tumblr.com Liam Achaibou is a digital designer, collage wizard and curator of weird. www.liamachaibou.co.uk

Writers:

By Erin Bottomley

Brighton Tap Takeover Belfast & Craft Beer Local Brews

Mark Dredge is the award-winning writer of the books Craft Beer World and Beer & Food, with his third book, The Best Beer in the World, published in October 2015. Each month Mark looks in detail at a different style of beer. You can follow his boozing on Twitter and Instagram: @markdredge.

By Craig Ballinger

Doner Party Ambitious Thinking What We’re Drinking...

By Erin Bottomley

EDITOR’S NOTE

Blacks of Kinsale Reinheitsgebot

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18 20

By Louisa Arbuckle

Best Beer Festivals of Summer 2016 22 By Ben Hargreaves

Maui Brewing Co.

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Brewed with Aloha

So with our 25th Issue, I am delighted to announce that as of next month Ferment will be changing for the better.

Wild Mushroom Stroganoff

We will be launching a 100page version nationwide jam packed full of beer, travel, adventure, craft alcohol, beer tales and more. This new version will be on shelves in WHSmith as well as independent magazine stores from the 9th of June and will be included in every single Beer52 member’s box.

By the Hungry Bears’ Blog

Looking forward to hearing what you think next month when you see it!

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Brewgooder | Enjoy Beer Responsibly 16

Hungry Bears’ Blog is run by Rich and Sal from their little flat in Welwyn. It’s a collection of recipes brought together to inspire other people with little kitchens (and little time!) to tuck into good, homemade food. Check them out: www.thehungrybearsblog.com

Ben Hargreaves is a copy-editor and proofreader. Basically, he likes words.

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All the Beer52 beers this month with tasting notes by Heather Naismith

By Ben Hargreaves

Sub-editor:

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By Melissa Cole

Craig Ballinger is a writer, caterer and drinker living and working in London. The giant chip on his shoulder is testament to his Mancunian heritage. Writing about beer evolved from a habit of writing on beer: ‘to some writers, drink is not only a means to an end but often an end to his means’. @ByCBallinger

Louisa Arbuckle grew up in northern California, where she developed her love of beer, and hops. She has spent the last decade moving around Europe and sampling every beer she can get her hands on before settling in Glasgow.

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The Evolution of a Beer Community by Matthew Curtis

By Mark Dredge

Matthew Curtis London-based beer writer, speaker and photographer. Founder and editor of beer blog Total Ales and UK contributor for online US beer publication Good Beer Hunting. Twitter: @totalcurtis

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By Pete Brown

Pete Brown is one of the UK’s most respected beer writers. Over the last twelve years he’s written five and a half books about beer, pubs and cider and why they matter. His next book What You Are Drinking? was recently fully funded through Unbound and will tell the story of beer's four key ingredients; hops, malted barley, yeast and water.

Melissa Cole Certified Cicerone® and beer & food writer Melissa Cole is one of the UK’s leading beer experts. Author of Let Me Tell You About Beer, international beer judge, collaboration brewer, sommALEier and regular festival presenter, she can be found propping up bars all over the world but she sometimes manages to be home in London.

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What is bottle conditioning?

26 29

By Erin Bottomley

Cheers, Erin Bottomley

CONTACT For all advertising and contribution enquiries, please contact Erin Bottomley at erin@beer52.com or call us on 07414 632260. Get in touch on Twitter @FermentHQ You can write to us here at Ferment, Floor 3, Howe Street, Edinburgh, EH3 6TG, UK. Discover craft beer at Beer52.com   FERMENT 1


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Words: Erin Bottomley Illustrations: Eva Dolgyra

2  FERMENT   Discover craft beer at Beer52.com


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he term session beer seems to be popping up everywhere these days. And, although it has been around for a while, it is making a lot of traction in the craft beer world of late. It would seem that almost every brewery worldwide is making some kind of session beer in one way or another, but is it just another buzzword or does it actually hold some significance? Well, there are two different ways you can look at the term and, like much in the beer world, there tends to be different ideas on either side of the Atlantic. Beer means many things to many people: for some it is something to enjoy while relaxing at the end of a long week, for others it is an exploration into flavour and pushing boundaries, it can be light, dark, hoppy, sour, smoky and the list goes on. In recent years, there has been an overwhelming trend to push beer to its limit. The strongest, the weakest – with a range of low or zero ABV making the rounds that are now able to compete with their alcoholic brothers and sisters, the highest IBU (this one only lives in the realm of theory), the strange, the weird, the wonderful and, in all honesty, that is why we love beer! When it comes to beer, we have come to expect the unexpected.

strength but not sessionable. And, sometimes we can’t even get the idea of just being low alcohol as the reason a beer is sessionable. I recently overheard someone referring to Punk IPA, sitting at 5.4%, as a session IPA, which as you can imagine will take a lot less to get a person inebriated on a ‘session’ down the pub. So, it would seem we struggle to even get that right when it comes to what session really means. The difference between British session and American session ales. British session beers cover a range of milds, pales and bitters, which are designed to be drank in a session and leave you wanting more after your first pint. They are complex in their subtlety, not overpowering or one dimensional and are, essentially, some of the best easy drinking beers out there. They are not designed to challenge, they are designed to be enjoyed when relaxing in a comfortable environment. Whether that is down the pub with a couple of friends or on a rare sunny British day, they are an all-rounder built for any occasion. They are session strength, session taste and, most importantly, drinking one after another won’t leave you feeling bored. balance between malt and hop characters (ingredients) and, typically, a clean finish – a combination of which creates a beer with high drinkability. The purpose of a session beer is to allow a beer drinker to have multiple beers, within a reasonable time period or session, without overwhelming the senses or reaching inappropriate levels of intoxication. (Yes, you can drink and enjoy beer without getting drunk.)”

But, just sometimes, beer doesn’t have to be a challenge. Sometimes it is the familiar and the just-darn-right good tasting beer that we crave most, which But, just is potentially why So, it comes from the session beers have meaning of a session – sometimes, grown in popularity a couple of beers, beer doesn’t over recent years. let’s go with more It could be argued than two, with your have to be a that it is this reaction from friends. As our challenge. breweries to go against bodies are only able the grain that makes the to process so much beer world so innovative. By creating alcohol per hour, the lower the something that is sessionable, low percentage the more easily we ABV and still packed full of flavour, are able to process it. All makes the breweries are still pushing the sense really. Take a 4% pint of boundaries in their own unique way. beer, drink a couple over the course of an evening and you Of course, it isn’t that simple. more than likely won’t be falling Session beers mean very different around drunk in the street on your things to many different people. This way home. If we take this to be the confusion causes it to teeter on the definition then it is any beer that is edge of becoming a buzzword and low ABV and that would be the end could therefore seem to simply be a of it. way to market beer. Rarely is life that simple. Some argue So, what should a session beer be? that session beers mean more than just the ABV and that American Beer Advocate defines it as follows: Session IPAs bursting full of strong, hoppy flavours are not within the “Any beer that contains no higher realms of what a true session beer than 5 percent ABV, featuring a should be. In other words, session

It can be argued that for some the Session IPA, as done in the American style, is more about ABV than on the ability to keep going back for more. But I think that is a matter of taste. Session IPAs of this style tend to be

OUR SESSION BEER RECOMMENDATIONS: Firestone Walker | Easy Jack Founders | All Day IPA BrewDog | Dead Pony Club Bronx | Session IPA Hillside | Over the Hill Mild Howling Hops | Riding Ale Evil Twin | Bikini Beer (Coming soon) Fyne Ales | Jarl Vocation | Heart and Soul hoppy, juicy, bitter and refreshing. Maybe they are built more for warm weather sessions, something of a rarity on the British Isles. Some argue that they are too full on to really call themselves session beers but I would suggest that it all depends on the how you view the word. If it is simply a way to describe the ABV of a beer and distinguish itself from its higher ABV big brother IPA then they are exactly what they say – lower ABV versions of IPAs. But if you were viewing the term in the way that it is determined by the ability to drink a couple of these beers in one ‘session’ then their British equivalents would be better suited to the term. So like many things in the craft beer world, lest we forget we still don’t have a definition for ‘what is craft?’ in the UK, it is difficult to define what a session beer is. From my point of view I would go with this: if it is low ABV and won’t leave you in a heap on the floor after an evening on the beer and it is something that leaves you wanting more, whether it be a hoppy American session IPA or a balanced easydrinking mild then that, in my opinion, is all a session beer needs to be.

Discover craft beer at Beer52.com   FERMENT 3


Photos: Edward Bishop

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e move playfully through the crowded landscape – flâneurs, unitary urbanists following the path of Dada and Debord, following our own path, psychogeographers reimagining and reordering the city. OK, you might argue we’re merely on a pub crawl. But there’s nothing ‘mere’ about this pub crawl. Ivan Chtcheglov, a French political theorist, developed the notion of psychogeography in 1953, when he was just nineteen. Guy Debord then developed this idea of politicised urban wandering as a way of confronting the dreary functionalism of urban architecture, whilst blurring the line between ‘function’ and ‘play.’ What this means, on a practical level, is that by walking a city in a certain way, you can challenge ideas about why that city exists, what it’s for and how it’s put together. The flow of main roads into a city takes people into and out of its centre, where business is done, while a ring road is designed for cars to avoid the city as much as they can. Walk the whole ring road, as writer Iain Sinclair famously did on the M25 for his book London Orbital, and you see the city in an entirely different way. Link up places by walking between them through backstreets and alleyways, and you’re challenging the city’s ruling functionality. The northerner in me wants to dismiss psychogeography as ‘fancy walking’,

Words: Pete Brown and like much of post-structuralism and Next, we taste Halstatt Deity, a saison surrealism, it has an air of the absurd brewed with two kinds of yeast and a about it which some could easily dismiss load of fresh pomegranate. Tom usually as pretentious intellectual masturbation. ages it for six months but this one wasn’t But I suspect it’s one of those ideas quite right, so he left it for another 12 that doesn’t take itself too seriously, months to see what would happen. and those who dismiss it aren’t getting Behind an initial shock of tartness there’s the joke. Debord’s a wonderfully balanced biographer, Vincent The alcohol has OK, you might body. Kaufman, wrote, increased to around 9 per “This apparently cent as the beer’s been aged, argue we’re serious term and I describe it in my notes merely on a ‘psychogeography’ as a sipper that develops pub crawl. But on the palate. I’m no longer comprises an art of conversation it by the time I drain there’s nothing sipping and drunkenness, and the glass. ‘mere’ about everything leads us to believe that Debord excelled this pub crawl. “I’ve been doing this kind of at both.” thing for twelve years,” says Tom fervently as my tongues twists and As soon as you know that, turns and my lips involuntarily pucker at psychogeography doesn’t just seem like him. “The market has now caught up.” an acceptable concept to apply to a pub crawl – it becomes essential. Talking of catching up, the rest of our party have just left, on their way to the The pub itself is an environment that next pub. invites surrealism, and craft beer seems increasingly to be responding Psychogeography invites the urban to that invitation. I’m in a pub in walker to find patterns and symbolism in Brighton talking to Tom Newman, a their wanderings. Happily our hosts this man obsessed by Celtic mythology, weekend have provided this for us. The who named his brewery The Celt first ever Brighton Tap Takeover weekend Experience. He’s brewed a beer called features ten different brewers taking over Horse Cranium – a chocolate milk taps in ten different pubs all within a tenporter brewed with the addition of minute walk of each other. kaffir lime leaves. The name refers to the Welsh pagan custom of Mari You can visit these pubs in any order Lwd, where horse skulls are decorated or combination, except now, on the with baubles and paint and processed Friday night, I’m part of a delegation of through the pubs of a town on a long journalists being taken around six of the stick held up by someone under a participating pubs to meet the brewers in white sheet. Because Wales. their temporary homes.

Within the space of a few hours, I sample a saison while its brewer tells me the idea was to make it taste sessionable. (It’s 8.5 per cent. And I’m afraid he succeeded.) I drink Northern Monk’s stout, brewed with tobacco and orange peel. I drink another beer infused with some dreadful liqueur that’s an institution throughout Brighton and unknown anywhere else. After a twelve-hour break from drinking (considerably less in some cases), we carry on, retracing some of last night’s wanderings and reconfiguring the crawl, back and forth, drawing new patterns between the pubs. Most of us intersect at the 3pm launch of Cloudwater’s new version of their Double IPA. (I queue for fifteen minutes to get some. Even though it’s not signed by a pump clip, the tap is on constantly and the first keg disappears in minutes.) I go back to the North Laines Brewhouse, where we began last night, and get my choice of beer put into an open-topped can and sealed on the mini-bottling line. I try to find the Celt Experience pub again, and give up when I stumble across a different pub we haven’t tried yet. I’ve always loved Brighton, but I’ve always had my fixed path through my usual haunts with minimal variation. Now, as well as bringing ten craft brewers from across the city to create a re-imagining of the tap takeover, the pub crawl and the beer festival, Tap Takeover has redrawn my mental map of the city. Guy Debord would have loved it.

Discover craft beer at Beer52.com   FERMENT 5


Photos: Matthew Curtis

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BELFAST & CRAFT BEER – THE EVOLUTION OF A BEER COMMUNITY Words: Matthew Curtis

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Scrimgeour, neither of whom were happy that the rise of craft beer seemed to be leaving Northern Ireland behind.

East Belfast is better known for its murals that serve as a reminder of the city’s troubled past than as a centre for beer – but it’s here, just over a year ago, that Boundary Brewing Cooperative established itself. The brewery is housed in a former linen mill, which also serves as a home for several other small and independent businesses, such as a baker and a cheesemaker. Boundary was founded by friends Matthew Dick and Matt

Dick developed his love of beer while living in the United States. When After a year with Brewbot, Dick he returned to Belfast, he began took the plunge and quit his job in homebrewing in an effort to recreate order to start up Boundary Brewing the vibrant beer culture he had Cooperative. His business partner, become accustomed Scrimgeour, was to. “I couldn’t find about the East Belfast is enthusiastic the beers I wanted cooperative business better known model and so Boundary to drink easily or cheaply, so I started for its murals built its financial to brew them resources by selling myself.” Dick says. “In the that serve as stakes in the company. following months, I helped a reminder Each investment ranged start a Homebrew Club from £100 to £20,000, of the city’s in town, and then a Beer with each investor troubled past having the same amount Club.” of power, regardless of than as a Unbeknownst to Dick at the size of their stake. centre for beer Boundary now have over the time, the formation of this beer club helped 1000 member investors, set in motion a steady rise in the and its beers, which range from pithy, enthusiasm for great beer in Belfast. US style pale ales to tart and vibrant It also landed him his first job in Berliner Weisse, are now available beer: working for Texas-based firm throughout much of the UK. Brewbot, who had set up a second HQ in the city. “Brewbot offered me The development of craft breweries, a job as their ‘Brewing Evangelist’, such as Boundary, is causing a shift in

pposite the infamous Europa Hotel (reportedly the most bombed hotel in Europe, after having suffered 28 bomb attacks during ‘the Troubles’) sits The Crown Liquor Saloon. This noted drinking establishment is a glorious example of a former Victorian gin palace with both its interior and exterior being a real treat for the eyes. The Crown helps demonstrate that Belfast has always been a beer town and is usually full of both locals and tourists, enjoying what is reportedly the best pint of the ubiquitous Guinness that the city has to offer. However, as with the rest of the beer appreciating world, times are changing and the city of Belfast is developing quite the thirst for craft beer.

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whatever that meant.” Dick continues, “So, for just over a year I got to constantly brew on this robot that brews beer and is controlled by an app on your phone.”

Belfast’s beer culture. As the demand for great beer in Northern Ireland increases, specialist bars and bottle shops begin to become increasingly prevalent in order to satisfy a new type of consumer. Even Brewbot identified this growing need, and so beneath their workshop and offices they’ve put together a slick and modern craft beer bar. Brewbot maintains the cosy yet industrial aesthetic that is becoming commonplace in modern beer bars. Despite the grey brick walls and hard lines, Brewbot manages to conjure up an almighty amount of vibe, which might be something to do with the huge range of beers on tap and in bottle, plus simple yet accomplished food offerings. On my visit, Boundary was there celebrating its first anniversary. The tap list was dominated by its own beers, along with several from many of their friends south of the Irish Border, including Yellowbelly, The White Hag and Galway Bay Brewery. Before the bar became too busy I asked Dick where he thinks the Northern Irish craft beer scene is heading.


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“Belfast’s beer scene is growing. But very, very slowly. Having said that, though, it’s already unrecognisable from a year or two ago.” Dick says, cautiously. “We’ve been pretty well received by Belfast as a whole. It’s a small market, so it’s been great to be so close to retailers and even the end consumers. That makes it easier to pay attention to accurate feedback.” Eventually Brewbot becomes a sea of people, all ordering pints and tasting flights of bitter and aromatic IPA, rich export stouts and barrel-aged sours. If you forgot where you were for a moment, you could easily believe that you were in a busy craft beer bar in London, or, perhaps, even the US. Craft beer culture in Northern Ireland might only be at its beginning but, from what I can see, it’s made a very healthy start indeed.

Discover craft beer at Beer52.com   FERMENT 7


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LOCAL BREWS

Words: Mark Dredge

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here are certain beer styles that are uniquely of a particular place; a place which protects their particular quirks and promotes them as being one of their own. It is because of these quirks that interest developed for the beers from afar, and so they started to be brewed around the world. These are the local beers that have gone global.

Kölsch and Altbier These two beers, both anomalous in Germany for being ales, have a love-hate coexistence. The two are separated by 25 miles along the river Rhine and the mention of one of these styles necessitates a reference to the other. Each beer has become a symbol of their respective cities and a proud differentiator to the rest of their country, and there are no styles more distinct to their location than Kölsch or Altbier. Go to Cologne and you’ll find Kölsch everywhere. Go to Düsseldorf and Altbier is all you see. Both proudly dominate to the point of ignoring that a whole world of beer exists. Golden and bright like a Pilsner, Kölsch is fermented with ale yeast at a cooler-than-usual temperature before undergoing the cold conditioning that a traditional lager gets – it developed as a way for Cologne’s brewers to maintain their own style of beer as pale lager arrived from Bavaria and Bohemia. Crisp, dry, lightly fruity, and clear from filtration, it’s endlessly refreshing, especially so at it arrives regularly in the distinctive small, straight 200ml stange glasses. Altbier is an old beer – as in oldstyle not long-aged. Düsseldorf’s amber ale is reddish in colour, bracingly bitter, nutty and earthy, herbal and spicy, and it’s also served in straight-sided 200ml glasses, these called becher, which are squatter and more robust than the skinnier stange. Other breweries make Kölsch and Altbier but nowhere else in the beer world does a beer style dominate a town quite like in either Cologne or Düsseldorf – and the two exist side-byside. Just don’t expect to find an Altbier in Cologne, or vice-versa. Must Try: Päffgen Kölsch is only available in Cologne and it’s soft-bodied yet firmly bitter and has a light, lush stone fruit fragrance. Thornbridge Tzara is a cracking British interpretation, being similarly clean and refreshing. Uerige’s Altbier is boldly bitter, earthy and toasty like brown bread. Orbit’s Neu has the classic toasted malts and a deep hop flavour.

Dusseldorf, Germany 8  FERMENT   Discover craft beer at Beer52.com

Photos: Eric Bauer, J. Heribert Pohl, Jorg Schubert, Markus Trienke

Cologne, Germany


Feature Bamberg, Franconia

Rauchbier

Gose

As part of the malting process which prepares grains for brewing, the kernels are soaked and allowed to germinate before being kilned. Years ago, before an indirect roasting or kilning method was developed, those grains were like sponges to the fire burning beneath it and that gave the beers an edge of smoke. This is a flavour which has largely disappeared today in favour of cleaner, non-smoked malts. Today, Rauchbier keeps the flames of smoked beers burning and Bamberg, in Franconia, is the epicentre of the style. Rauchbiers, which are a family of smoked lagers, vary from delicate wisps of bonfire in pale lagers through to chewy, meaty, liquid-bacon bocks. Surprisingly, for a city famed for its smoked beers, only a few of Bamberg’s 10 breweries make a Rauchbier, but that doesn’t stop it being a must-visit beer destination for this esoteric, historicallyrelevant beer style.

Northern Europe has a long pre-lager tradition of sour wheat beers, reaching from the lambics of Brussels to the weissbiers of Berlin, via smoky-sour Lichtenhainer and the now-extinct Broyhan. Somewhere between these, via Belgian witbiers, you get to Goslar, the original home of Gose. This is a beer that once would’ve been spontaneouslyfermented but which came to be made with lactic acid – it’s the original ‘fast sour’ compared to the long-aged lambics. From Goslar it travelled to and gained notable popularity in Leipzig, where it had its heyday in the early 20th century before the popularity of lager suffocated it. Around 20 years ago, the style returned to Leipzig and from there this curious beer, that’s flavoured with salt and coriander seed, has become a surprisingly popular craft beer.

Must Try: Schlenkerla Märzen is a beer that’s like liquid smoked meat, bonfire, toasty oak and chewy malts – it packs a punch and may not be for everyone on the first sip. Camden Town’s Flue Faker is a legit Bamberg-style Rauch, that tastes like bacon, bread and a little brown sugar.

Must Try: Bayerischer Bahnhof Gose is brewed in Leipzig and has a distinct floral aroma from the coriander, a gentle tang of acidity and a sea-breeze salinity that’s wonderfully appetising. Brew By Numbers’ Gose is a very good take on the style, being refreshingly tart with the moreish depth of salt and an orangey depth of coriander.

Goslar, Germany

Kapiti Coast, New Zealand

New Zealand Pilsner and Italian Pilsner Whereas the other styles mentioned here have a long history, these two reflect new traditions, where the world’s most popular beer – pale, dry, refreshing Pilsner – is styled to suit local tastes. In New Zealand, for example, the use of tropical-scented Kiwi hops have given the lagers a juicy-fruity fragrance, whereas in Italy, the bitter Pils get a late burst of pithy, peppery, floral aroma from German hops. These styles founded the current trend towards dryhopped Pilsners that’s igniting a new interest in fine lager brewing around the world, where they are also being served unfiltered for added richness, texture and flavour.

Must Try: New Zealand’s Tuatara Pilsner is grassy and lemony, with some toasty malts (their bottles, complete with lizard spine, reflects their name: a tuatara is a Kiwi reptile). Birrificio Italiano invented the Italian Pilsner style and it’s peachy, herbal, complex and wonderful. Adnams Dry-Hopped Lager, brewed with lush Aussie Galaxy hops, is a top British example.

Leipzig, Germany Discover craft beer at Beer52.com   FERMENT 9


Beer Tales

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Beer Tales

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he drinks reception was due to start at six-thirty so I had smarten up by five. I couldn’t be late for the 2016 British Kebab Awards. It was a Wednesday and in a serendipitous twist I was catering Turkish flavours the next night, so had to pace through a prep session and get ready to meet the stars of the UK kebab scene. There was no way I could miss the event – to reject an invitation to such a prestigious evening would be foolish. As a drunk, I’m obviously into kebab shops – their neons act as landmarks on treacherous staggers and even their worst food is the goods when you need it. I was well prepped but worried about the dress code – I didn’t even wear a suit to my own wedding. I had to dust down my only pair of jeans and give a rough shine to my Chelsea boots that could’ve been lifted from the Tramp himself. My date Ryan arrived on time and we had the bit in our teeth. I’d packed bus cans from my life savings – Brown from Fourpure and Nor’ Hop from Moor. With a celebratory burner for the walk, we were on the streets before the light had started to fully fade. It had been a fine quick turnaround – my sucuk stew was ready and an homage to fūl was

we found a drink and a table. I still had to entertain myself so I squirmed through the mingling crowd of cocktail dresses to watch people have their photographs taken in front of those ridiculous advert boards. Welcome to the British Kebab Awards – brought to you by Just Eat and Big K Charcoal. I found the seating plan and noted that there were MPs present by the handful. I checked it over quickly for any recognisable names, but did badly and missed key facts. In attendance we had the likes of Jeremy Corbyn and Sadiq Khan but also Keith Vaz. On stage later Vaz riffed on his unpopularity – “I’ve eaten more kebabs than I got votes in the last general election,” – and I bet he kept all of the receipts too. Whilst Ryan’s drama was playing out I was getting deeply irritated that he was pissing on a fine parade. I saw this one as a buddy comedy and had believed that my partner was well chosen. His head wasn’t turned until we got to the function room. There was a raucous crowd of hundreds, getting into the free booze quick and exchanging kebab-based anecdotes.

As we found our table, Ryan had suddenly tied up his loose ends and burst into life. He worked the table, I imagine there’s a great deal getting about the of politics going on with the company, starting awards themselves – I wonder conversations. I drained the infinite if Best Turkish and Super wines and Cobras and met kebab makers from Kebab, the two favourites for Durham. The good London’s best, have a deep people of Istanbul rivalry? Meats were nominated for Outstanding tasting good. I knew I just had to Contribution to Kebabs. They seemed avoid too steep a hangover. decent and proud of their business, and rightly so – where would we be On the bus to Waterloo I realised I without doner? didn’t have Ryan at all – he was busy with an exceptionally long-winded * text argument with a girl. Single people are the worst – always having On stage ‘Two Shoes’, I was informed sex and drama. Why can’t they just by Layla of Istanbul Meats, were the settle down and wait to die? I looked entertainment. The two glistening out of the window and down on the Essex girls karaoked Uptown Funk passing streets. Outside City pubs and I thought about getting the suits clustered and drank whilst blonde. I got back into browsing beggars shuffled about waiting for various literature – flyers for a new something to trickle down. type of kitchen extraction, a silent auction brochure and the evening’s * menu. A round of meze was on its way to help us with all of the drink. The melee at the drinks reception was still raging. In the bunker bar of I should’ve got involved with the the Park Plaza hotel, amongst the nominations – my favourites, usual garish carpets and columns, Stoke Newington’s Testi, weren’t

represented. Their Adana kebab and pomegranate onions are things of simple beauty. I’ll have to petition to get them on the ballot paper for next year. I imagine there’s a great deal of politics going on with the awards themselves – I wonder if Best Turkish and Super Kebab, the two favourites for London’s best, have a deep rivalry?

feet applauding wildly. As the crowd settled, Corbyn talked of how kebabs are good for local economies and thanked the Turks and Kurds for their contribution to our communities. He also gets political and delivers a message in support of the sugar tax.

He covers other points, including his own arse for being up there as a vegetarian – “what I want people to do I’m proud to represent a is when they have a constituency that has a large kebab, have a salad with it,” and touches number of kebab shops, I on the terrorism, know them all extremely denouncing the well.” I bet he knows where to “random, irrational and appalling bomb get the best falafel in North attacks,” that had London for sure. recently happened all over the world. There were many economic angles Before the awards got properly discussed over the evening – the underway there was a minute silence 19,000 Turkish/Kurdish restaurants for the people killed in Brussels in UK, the billions kebabs contribute only the day before. As the room to the British economy. fell silent the press gathered at the base of the stage - photographers “I’m proud to represent a clicked away greedily, the mechanics constituency that has a large number of their cameras the only sound in of kebab shops, I know them all the room. They are scum, obviously, extremely well.” I bet he knows and in a world where atrocities where to get the best falafel in are commonplace I couldn’t help North London for sure. We cheered but think that they should all be wildly for Istanbul Meats when the skewered. nominations were read out. Our new Scottish mates are into it too, The empty seats at our table were clapping and shouting and chugging soon filled by a pair of SNP MPs, Cobra. Ultimately we lost out to Total arriving late and loose. I got talking Shopfitting Solutions. I booed lightly to one of them and he quickly and laughed at the strangeness of denounced Westminster as ‘totally everything. corrupt’ in the casual manner of a man who doesn’t deal in political * bullshit. I enjoyed the honesty. And I enjoy the SNP - the Scots should be As the awards wore on we noticed managing their own country – and some problem dickheads - there’s why not? The English landlord needs always some other bastard in tight to feel threatened. jeans to ruin things for the rest of us. A guy from a nearby table was pissed Ibrahim Dogus, the founder of the and trying to create an impression – he awards and Director of CEFTUS stood on the table and clapped, tried (Centre for Turkish Studies) gave a to present an award and charged at warm welcome speech – leaving Corbyn for his attention. He should’ve me with the impression he’s one of been out on his arse. He was probably the good guys too. He called for the from some shitty dick of a magazine or kebab community to be represented website. Given how hard he was trying, in Westminster, which sounds bizarre he was probably from Vice. but would at least give voice to people outside the controlling group Fuck those guys – luckily, all of their of old Empire dogs. scenes were small and didn’t disrupt the evening. Fucking white people * eh? Always trying a little parade piss. It was embarrassing but we kept our Suddenly it was time for the actual heads in the game. Dogus himself awards – our category came up eventually came over and had a word. quick. Presenting the award for He was exceptionally friendly and it Outstanding Contribution to the put a pin in the guy. Tomorrow he’ll Kebab Industry was Jeremy Corbyn. probably think he was on great form, Surprised and excited I was on my not just an idiot pissing about for

Discover craft beer at Beer52.com   FERMENT 11


Beer Tales attention like a toddler. Ryan kept his head up and spied our opportunity. He’s always plotting, like a mini Putin. He was suddenly up from our table and blasting over to Corbyn’s. I followed quickly. Ryan was already in place as I arrive, my campaign manager breaking the ice. ‘I know what we’re doing here but what are you doing here?’ Corbyn starts reeling out his rationale. He’s talking about the economy and kebabs and somehow I shamble my way in and am introduced by Ryan. I say some thanks about giving the left something to do. Suddenly, we’re talking about how fascism fills the gaps left by a lack of political education and social engagement. People wanted photos. I wanted to talk about left-wing literature. Jeremy turns his attention back and we hatch a quick plan to have many copies of Tressell’s Ragged Troused Philanthropists printed and distributed as part of a political education. Asked what I do, I lied and said I’m a writer. He told me he was working on a novel and asked what mine was about. ‘Post-apocalyptic satire.’ Which is very vague because it’s the only thing anyone makes anymore. Another guy really wanted a photo at this point. Jez is a gent, he can’t say no. I glanced at Ryan. I wanted him to see if he can get in touch with some people at Penguin immediately. Jez stood from his seat and started getting me in the guy’s photo. The guy was excited – he was getting his shot. Corbyn turned to me whilst working on his smile. ‘What’s your name?’ ‘Craig.’ ‘Craig…?’ ‘Ballinger. Craig Ballinger.’ ‘No middle name, eh?’ ‘Nah.’ During this exchange Ryan took his shot. I would never have asked for a photo, but Ryan got the sneaky effort. Unfortunately, in the picture Corbyn could well be actually asking who the fuck I am whilst I try to get a picture with him. Would it be in the Daily Mail the next day? “Corbyn Threatens Fan At Drink-Fuelled Kebab Ceremony. Known sandalwearing vegetarian, Corbyn, 66, is a ‘hypocrite’ said a critic.” Out there somewhere is a picture a guy really wanted with Jeremy Corbyn and there I am with JC’s other arm around me. I imagine he’ll just crop me out. After the photo opportunity, we moved back to his table and he introduced me to his wife who looked dazzled by all the guests. People were getting at Corbyn from all angles – all wanting something.

‘Five minutes of selfies?’ An aide to our comrade. He shrugs and we say our goodbyes. He asks me when the book is going to be finished. I told him I’ve long planned to finish it by the time I’m thirty, which is closer than is comfortable. I challenged him to a race to the end and paused on my exit. “I don’t do sprints.” He laid it on with a twinkle. He was probably lightly pissed too.

12  FERMENT   Discover craft beer at Beer52.com

Oh Corbyn and his soft face – how will he survive amongst the savages? The warmongers and psychopaths are in his party too. I really wanted to ask him how he stops himself from telling Dave to fuck right off, especially recently when Our Smug Leader told him to get a ‘proper suit’. As the words slithered out the outstretched zombie hands of Orwell pushed at the lid of his coffin, straining to wrap them around Cameron’s jowls.

There was late talk of going to Parliament for a subsidised pint with our new pals. It turned out they couldn’t sign us in this late, so we took their cards and said our goodbyes. A night burner on the Westminster Bridge set in some relaxing spins for the journey home. Across the water Parliament stood elegantly illuminated – a grand sham. Maybe one day we’ll get in there for a pint with disillusioned Scots, or maybe we’ll get in there for a fight.


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MELISSA COLE

Y

AMBITIOUS THINKING ou know when you go somewhere and it’s just on point, like really amazing?

I’m in Philadelphia at the World Beer Cup and Craft Brewers Conference and it is sensational. The level to which beer is taken seriously, but also kept fun, is a fine line that is drawn perfectly. This is something I’ve been musing over for about a month, we seem to have stalled slightly in the UK in terms of great groundbreaking events but I can’t figure out if it’s growing pains or whether we are just being terribly British (you know what I mean!). I appreciate that this is a bit vague but let me put it context – five weeks ago I was had the great privilege to be at the Bierfestival Groningen and Maik van Heerd who owns Cafe de

Toeter and Keimpe Postema who has Fiethuis restaurant where we went from a beer dinner for 90 last year to 600! 600 covers in a town that most people outside of Netherlands have never heard of. Where’s our ambition to do such things? And I mean, ambition in the sense that we need some more broad ambition. I just feel like there are too many people too concerned about the amount of breweries opening and not enough focus on how to engage with drinkers, and I’m sure drinkers would like to see more of the breweries too – it’s one of the key things about ‘craft’ beer – it’s how we make ourselves different and it’s what is so loved about the industry.

So let’s get out there and keep winning hearts and minds because beer sales are again down 1% in the UK according to the British Beer & Pub Association, but up in US according to the Brewers Association... I’ll just leave it at that. * Anyway, onto to more cheerful stuff, two of the best guys I know in the business, in fact two of my dearest friends, have just sold their wholesale beer business to James Clay, so I’d just like to tip my hat to Mike Hill and Richard Dinwoodie of Utobeer (and to James Clay too) for doing the deal so elegantly so staff and customers will remain secure in their relationships. I also can’t wait to see what they do next, their focus is staying on the retail side and, let’s face it, another pub like the Rake will always be welcome!

And speaking of welcome, it was ‘nice’ to see so many misogynists up in my timeline on Twitter the other week, proving once again that sexist branding brings the worst people out of the woodwork, serial offender Marston’s showed that a corporate culture of sexist branding will perpetuate its own problems – to allow through a pump clip with ‘Saggy Boobs’ on it is just unforgivable as were the dick pics the defenders of this rubbish sent me – honestly guys, I just don’t have that level of zoom on my phone to make it worth sending them. All other tweets or feedback welcome!

This is something I’ve been musing over for about a month, we seem to have stalled slightly in the UK in terms of great groundbreaking events but I can’t figure out if it’s growing pains or whether we are just being terribly British (you know what I mean!). Discover craft beer at Beer52.com   FERMENT 13


WHAT WE’RE DRINKING...BY HEATHER NAISMITH

Fourpure Flatiron American Red

Blacks of Kinsale Pale Ale

This mahogany red beer is a beautiful marriage of malt and hops. Elegantly balanced: notes of caramel, toffee, and toasted grains are complemented by a bright, citrusy and tropical American hop character, with a smooth finish.

Panda Frog Project Red Panda The exciting fusion of Cascade and Citra hops inspires tropical & citrus flavours that are beautifully balanced with the malty sweetness. This is a memorable pale ale, like sunshine in a glass.

Hardknott Space Hopper A beer for a chilled out Saturday afternoon, this easy drinking gose is packed full of oranges. The fruit gives way to a biscuity, salty finish. It’s thirst quenching and infinitely refreshing.

3 .8%

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4 .5 %

5 .0%

4 .7 %

To-Øl Gose to Hollywood

US hop charged red ale infused with raspberries, blackberries and strawberries. This red ale really hits the spot for us at Beer52.

Hardknott Brownian Motion In an attempt to make a huge, amped up, hoppy beer, Hardknott experimented with just how hoppy beer could be. As the name suggests, this beer is a lot of fun, packed full of late hops added to the boil as well as dry hopping. It completely delivers here with some massive piney, resinous flavours, which is all backed up by a roasty toasty malt backbone.

5 .2 %

This salted smoked porter is a dark chocolate and salted caramel lovers dream. Although it is rich and sweet, it is wonderfully balanced with a subtle smokiness and a bitter dry finish

4 .5 %


WHAT WE’RE DRINKING...BY HEATHER NAISMITH

WOOHA Lager

CAP Endless Vacation If you think that being the brewer is the most kick-ass job in the world? You would be right. But even CAP’s brewers need a break from the awesomeness of their existence. So what does Mattias do when he’s not mashing in? Well. Chilling out and drinking this Pale Ale of course.

Firestone Walker Easy Jack Bright and effervescent, in true lager form. Not overly hopped, there is still a strength to the spicy aroma and flavour provided by the three hop varieties with which this lager is brewed. The robustness of the hops is matched by a strong grain bill, to give a full round mouthfeel. The WOOHA Lager is a lager packed with refreshing flavour.

Just a little piece of his beery vacation…brewed for you to enjoy when you are not on yours.

5 .0%

5 .3 %

Dusty. Boring. An industrialised beer style. Not around here. Not at CAP. Around here ‘Old School’ is the new ‘New School’…Classic styles are respected. Brewing traditions honoured. The brew masters of years gone by are loved. So when CAP brew, they brew humbly in the shadows of the legends who have gone before them.

4 .2 %

4 .5 %

Coming next month...

Founders All Day IPA

CAP Bohemian Rhapsody

Easy Jack came about when Brewmaster Matt Brynildson went to the mountain top and returned with a vision for a different kind of Session IPA, one that would be brewed and dry hopped with a globetrotting selection of newer hop varieties from Germany, New Zealand and North America.

The beer you’ve been waiting for. Keeps your taste satisfied while keeping your senses sharp. An all-day IPA naturally brewed with a complex array of malts, grains and hops. Balanced for optimal aromatics and a clean finish. The perfect reward for an honest day’s work and the ultimate companion to celebrate life’s simple pleasures.

4 .7 %

NEW

FERMENT FERMENT All new Ferment magazine will contain 100 pages of beery stories for you to enjoy. Pete Brown gives his views on the state of the craft beer industry. Whilst we have lunch with Mikkeller on our trip to Copenhagen to search out the best beers and bars Denmark has to offer. All new recipes, adventure and, of course, tasty beers will be coming your way next month so watch this space.

Want more beer? Upgrade at Beer52.com   FERMENT 15


Feature

BREWGOODER – ENJOYING BEER RESPONSIBLY

Photos: Tom Welsh

Words: Ben Hargreaves

16  FERMENT   Discover craft beer at Beer52.com


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efore Brewgooder finally settled on their name, they had a toyed with the possibility of naming themselves ‘Responsible Drinking’. It’s a good job they settled on their eventual name otherwise, on its release, you would have had to attempt to order “a pint of Responsible Drinking” with a straight face. The phrase ‘responsible drinking’ conjures up too many articles and news pieces that generally conclude with the admonishment to curb your level of drinking. For those of us that enjoy a drink, in fact, there is very rarely much positive news released about drinking, so it’s with pleasure that I can bring to you the news that the best way to drink responsibly is to buy a beer. Brewgooder, founded by Alan Mahon and Josh Littlejohn, aims to give you a reason to feel positive about the beer you’re drinking. The business is based around selling beer, hence featuring in this magazine, but it’s a business that’s a little different to most: all of its profits go towards providing clean drinking water in Malawi. Brewgooder, working alongside Oxfam, MercyCorps and Wateraid, aim to provide people numbering in the hundreds of thousands safe drinking water in a country that has been hit hard by the current drought in southern Africa. Here at Beer52, we thought their idea was an interesting and praiseworthy step for the craft beer community, so we backed them by placing an order of 10,000 cans. Further than this, we wanted to learn more about where the idea had come from so we sat down to talk with Alan to find out more about the project. If the names’ of the founders of Brewgooder ring a bell, it’s because they’re also behind Social Bite, another business that places a good cause as the central idea behind a business model. It’s worked well for Social Bite, with international exposure from George Clooney’s recent visit to an Edinburgh store. When it came to thinking of a new idea for a potential business, in the tradition of all great ideas, the inspiration arose from an after-work visit to the pub. Alan recalls hitting on the idea from a single thought: “imagine

if you had a beer that you felt good support from lots of different quarters, about drinking because it was a really including here at the Beer52 office. tasty beer but also because the profits were good for the world in general.” One of their big supporters, who Alan We’ve all had similar thoughts over a is quick to acknowledge, is the team at drink about how we could fix the world, BrewDog. Brewgooder have partnered even if it was just about how to fix the with BrewDog to brew their beer and dodgy light bulb in the to help on the production bathroom, but there’s side. “We were lucky Imagine if you very few of us who enough to know them had a beer that and they’re working really would ever take action upon these alcoholyou felt good hard to make the stuff in induced whimsies. can as good as it can about drinking the be”, Alan explains. This is It’s all credit to the guys the key point of any beer because it at Brewgooder that they released onto the craft was a really not only followed up the beer market, regardless tasty beer but of the commendable idea idea but got off to a flying start: they passed their it, the taste has to also because behind crowdfunding target within be good or it won’t sell. three weeks of launching it the profits Unfortunately, your writer and finished with just under were good for hasn’t been able to sample £58,000 raised – £8000 any of their product but the world in above their target. Not bad Alan is upbeat about going but Alan is keen to the first batch that was general.” stress it was by no means produced, which went an easy feat. I had mentioned that, by down a storm. “We had the opportunity the third week, they had comfortably to launch it, at the Edinburgh BrewDog reached their target with time to spare bar, and three hours later the guy came but Alan laughed this off, “You’re never out to say it had sold out. I only had comfortable with crowdfunding. Say if three pints of my own beer!” you don’t see something come through for three hours, you begin to think ‘Oh All the pieces, at this stage, seem to be my God – the bottom has fallen out’”. coming together for Brewgooder and The combination of hard work and a so our conversation turns to the future great idea, however, is beginning to of the business. Alan is understandably pay off and Brewgooder have garnered cautious before the launch of their first

beer but there are plans in place should it be the success they’re hoping for: “There’s a long, long way to go to get it to a level where we’re turning over profit consistently enough to expand the beer side and the clean water side. We want the Clean Water lager to be our flagship and then we can introduce IPA’s or even collaboration beers. The beauty of it is there are so many breweries to work with. Wider than that though, there’s an opportunity for the UK to be a pioneer, with its craft beer making a big difference across the world.” It’s certainly a big aim but so was his initial idea, when he sat in a pub trying to figure out a way to link drinking beer to making a positive difference. Considering how far Brewgooder have come in the intervening time, I wouldn’t put it past them to get closer to that aim and, as we drain our beers, it certainly feels like a strong possibility. Look out for Brewgooder’s Clean Water lager which will be released in the summer. So you too will be able to raise your glass to Brewgooder and help provide clean water before you reach the bottom of your beer; I’d imagine it will taste that much sweeter for it.

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Feature

BLACKS OF KINSALE

Photos: Blacks of Kinsale

Words: Erin Bottomley

18  FERMENT   Discover craft beer at Beer52.com


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insale has always been a noted for its picturesque views, its historical port and as the gateway to one of Ireland’s most beautiful coastlines. Most recently, it has become the starting point or the end point, depending on which way you are headed, for the Wild Atlantic Way – 2600km of stunning and dramatic coastline stretching from the very south of Ireland right up to the Inishowen peninsula in the North. Known as one of the gourmet capitals of the south west of Ireland, Kinsale is no stranger to good food but there is more to Kinsale than the friendly locals, the beautiful views and local artisan foods, it is home to one of Ireland’s most up and coming breweries, Blacks of Kinsale. Opened in 2013, by husband and wife team Sam and Maudeline, they have been, ever since, set to take the Irish beer scene by storm. Like something out of an Irish fable, it all started when Maudeline gave Sam a home brewing kit for Valentines Day. And that was it, Sam’s obsession with the hops and malts was born. It wasn’t long before he was no longer satisfied making beers just at home and his hobby quickly grew into something more. At first, Sam began his professional brewing career brewing on other breweries kits making use of the equipment to hone his skills and experimenting with styles and flavours. It quickly became apparent

that Sam was pretty darn good at it and his obsession soon turned into a career choice.

His passion and dedication to the beer is something that can almost be tasted in every can and if they manage to keep going like they are then these guys are definitely one to keep an eye on for the future.

So, in 2013, like many breweries these days, Sam and Maudeline turned to the wonder of crowdfunding and managed to successfully secure enough finance And it doesn’t stop at just beer! to open their own brewery, and have They are also taking the brave leap never looked back. Since then, they into the world of spirits. Sam’s wife have produced an Maudeline is the brains impressive range behind the gin brand, Like including their Blacks Gin. After many, something flagship Pale Ale, a many different recipes session ale, an IPA, a out of an Irish (17 variations to be double IPA, a Black exact) were developed IPA, among other seasonals fable, it all and a few months of and speciality brews. started when development with a stringent tasting panel, Maudeline Their beers are found the final recipe was across Ireland and they are gave Sam chosen. And it sounds currently just dipping their a home delicious: toes into the export market at the moment where they brewing kit “This gin is smooth and hope that international for Valentines well balanced. Angelica distribution will increase and Orris root combine Day. in the next few months. with liquorice, Juniper and Coriander whilst distinctly citrus Since starting Sam’s love of hops has notes linger at the end to enhance its never dampened and he has plans to dry finish.” brew beers that showcase his favourite ingredient in all of their glory. This It would seem that Sam and new series of beer will be a celebration Maudeline are a match made in of the IPA and more specifically each heaven. Sam himself put together of the individual hops used. Pale ales some recipes of his own for the gin and IPA are not synonymous with although none of them quite made Ireland like they might be in the States the cut. It would seem he is best at and the UK but Sam is determined to sticking to making amazing beer. So, change the public’s mind and get them while Sam continues to develop and to understand the beauty of beers experiment with new beer styles, outside of the Irish Dry Stout and Maudeline has ambitions to increase mainstream lagers. their spirit range so they can become

the leading craft beer brewery and distillers of the Emerald isle. Both seem to specialise in innovation and attention to detail when it comes to getting the recipe for their product just right. Black’s Chocolate Vanilla Imperial Stout has gone down a storm with customers and maybe that can be attributed to the particular attention to the ingredients: they use fairtrade cacao husks, as well as Madagascan vanilla pods, in the brewing of the beer. It sounds utterly delicious and has obviously been thought through just as well as taking the time to experiment with 17 various recipes in the search for the perfect gin recipe. They certainly seem to have something right. Their beers are getting great reviews across Ireland, and now they’re attempting to expand into the international market: “we are really just dipping our toes into the export market, we hope to get better international distribution in place in the next few months.” Once the distribution is in place, I could see them going from strength to strength in the future. Great beer, tasty gin, a beautiful setting - as they say themselves: ‘Living the dream since 2013’.

Discover craft beer at Beer52.com   FERMENT 19


Feature

IS IT POSSIBLE TO EXPERIMENT IN BREWING WHILE FOLLOWING THE REINHEITSGEBOT?

Photos: WEST Brewery

Words: Louisa Arbuckle

20  FERMENT   Discover craft beer at Beer52.com


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016 marks the 500th anniversary of the Reinheitsgebot, the German Purity Law of brewing. The law, introduced in Bavaria in 1516, is considered to be one of the world’s oldest food regulation laws. It prescribes only the use of four basic ingredients in brewing – water, malt, hops, and, once its importance in brewing was recognised, yeast. Originally, the law was introduced to verify the purity of beer, ensuring beers contained the proper ingredients and were not contaminated by substitute ones, as well as to limit the profits made by brewers. Prior to the introduction of the law, it was common practice for Bavarian brewers to use ox bile or oak bark for bittering to avoid buying certain expensive hops, as well as using psychoactive substances like mandrake or magic mushrooms to increase the intoxicating effects of beer. The introduction of the law limited the raw materials of brewers, for if they were only allowed to brew with barley malt (and not wheat or rye), then they would have no choice but to contribute to the malt tax of the times. A further result of the law was to assure the availability of affordable bread, as wheat and rye were then reserved for bakers’ use. Though it is essential in Germany to follow the Reinheitsgebot, Glasgowbased WEST Brewery is the only brewery in the UK to brew all of its beers in strict accordance with this law. WEST, under the leadership

of German-born Petra Wetzel, is aging beer in, adding another level unusual in the craft beer world in of fermentation. WEST, too, have this respect – while other breweries begun their own experiments, and the are experimenting results, as seen in their through the recent limited edition It prescribes addition of unusual beer ‘Opus 268’, are truly only the use ingredients to their noteworthy. beers, such as of four basic coffee, black tea, Opus 268 began spices, and various fruit, ingredients as ‘Rammbock’, a WEST is keeping alive Weizendoppelbock dark in brewing – the traditional methods – wheat beer (8.5% ABV), honouring both the art of water, malt, brewed in December hops, and, once 2014. Part of the batch brewing as well as their firm German roots. distributed as a its importance was seasonal beer, and part in brewing was was transferred to an Creating new and distinct products is a feat recognised, oak barrel previously somewhat more difficult containing a highland yeast. when limited to only whisky, where it sat four ingredients. It is for 268 days. The aged nonetheless possible, as seen in the beer, now infused with the wood and new and unusual products recently charcoal aromas of whisky, was then released by WEST as well as German hand bottled and bottle conditioned brewers Bitburger in their ‘Craftwerk’ for a further six weeks. The result is range and the ‘BraufactuM’ beers by a bold and complex beer, complete Radeberger. Brewers must get more with a distinct whisky warmth despite creative in the process of brewing never having come into direct contact itself instead of with the ingredients with the spirit. used, by utilising diverse methods such as bottle or cask aging, or Distillation experimenting with the distillation of beer. The idea of ‘beer schnapps’ or ‘beer brandy’ is novel in the UK, though Barrel-Aging again slightly more widespread in Germany. Beer schnapps is made An increasing number of breweries quite simply through the distillation are using barrels having previously of beer, resulting in a spirit that contained spirits to age their beer. showcases the same flavour profile of German brewers Schneider Weisse the original brew – the ideal digestif have one hundred red wine barrels for beer lovers! they have been experimenting with

Glasgow Distillery Company teamed up with WEST recently to experiment with this process, resulting in the production of ‘Bierbrand’ (German for beer schnapps). Using the same ‘Rammbock’ beer used to create Opus 268, the team produced a schnapps full of aromas of toast, malted grains, pepper and whole cloves, at 40% ABV. WEST hopes to make its Bierbrand into part of its core range of products. In Germany, Maisel’s Weisse have produced a bierbrand called ‘Weisser Blitz’, or ‘white lightning’. The process has also made its way to the USA, with Chicago-based KOVAL offering a ‘Bierbrand’ using the lager from nearby Metropolitan Brewery. It will be interesting to see if more craft breweries begin following the German method and experimenting with beer distillation. It is, after all, an excellent method to ensure no beer goes to waste! The world of craft beer has seen such great experimentation and expansion in recent years due to the unlimited range of ingredients to choose from. These examples of successful experimentation when additional ingredients are not an option show just how much variation in beer there can be while adhering to the traditional purity of brewing and adding nothing more than an extra dose of creativity.

Discover craft beer at Beer52.com   FERMENT 21


Feature

BEST BEER FESTIVALS OF SUMMER 2016 Words: Ben Hargreaves

The Summer is quickly approaching, bringing with it promises of warm weather, refreshing beer and enjoying a snooze in the sunshine. Although, up here in Scotland, you would never know. Every day is an unpredictable, sartorial dance between wearing clothes for warmer weather and wearing clothes for rain, or snow. In other words, we end up wearing your average festivalgoers outfit: wellies with dresses, anoraks with a t-shirts. Still, in gloomier weather, we can look forward to the beer festivals that will make all of these dreams come true – well, at least having a refreshing beer is a guaranteed. We’ve given you a rundown of the beer festivals we think you should keep an eye out for this summer. Fyne Fest 10-12 June Situated in the beautiful Glen Fyne, this is a more traditionally-modelled Festival, being spaced over three days from the Friday to the Sunday. This gives participants plenty of time to enjoy over 150 different beers at their leisure, those going will have to be try to pace themselves to enjoy the full three days! This festival is a really strong allrounder, making sure that the food, the music and, of course, the beer are really top-notch. Word of mouth is always a strong stamp of approval and I’ve only heard positive things about the festival.

It’s usually noted as having a laid-back feel, something which is important considering how changeable the weather can be on the west coast of Scotland. This year they’re making a big push to include more events that are catered towards both children and adults. They are already running tours of the brewery, while having laidback live music at The Tap Stage and The Walker’s Bar, which offers food and acoustic live music. It seems like there should be plenty to keep everyone entertained.

Liverpool Craft Beer Expo 16-18 June

Manchester Beer Week 10-19 June The north of England continues to provide great places to celebrate good beer this summer with the Manchester Beer Week. This beer week hosts a huge range of events between June 10 and June 19, unlike the other festivals mentioned in this article, the week is not tied to one location but to the city itself. This allows a real independence to the type of events that can be held, as well as allowing local bars and pubs to all benefit from the movement. There are plans to brew one-off beers for the event, tours, talks about beer and much more. It’s a great excuse to spend some time in a great, northern city. 22  FERMENT   Discover craft beer at Beer52.com

The Liverpool Craft Beer Expo returns to ‘Constellations’ as their venue this year, a space that hosts a huge beer garden – always a plus on a day with nice weather. This years event marks the fourth year that the festival has been running for and seems to be going from strength to strength, with more featured bars from guest breweries. The bonus of this event is the variety of venues on offer, with more than 10 bars getting involved, over a hundred taps and the aforementioned beer garden. If the sun shines on them this year, this could be a real highlight of the craft beer festival year.


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Great British Beer Festival 9-13 August The biggest festival of the year, this one has it all. Over 900 real ales, ciders, perries and international beers, a real effort to provide activities for people of all ages while keeping tradition alive. The festival is run by CAMRA and takes place in the cavernous Olympia exhibition centre. This area provides more than enough beer, food stalls and traditional pub games, which include: skittle, shut the box and bobbing for apples. Best of all, all of this can be done with a pint in hand.

Bristol Craft Beer Festival 2-3 September This is the first year of the festival run by the team behind the London Craft Beer Festival and for what it is worth it looks like it’s going to be a good one. Taking place at the end of Bristol’s beer week, it’s located at Motion’s The Skate Park and looks set to promote a number of local breweries and their beer, featuring well-known breweries, such as Arbor, Wiper and True, Moor, Left Handed Giant, Lost & Grounded and The Wild Beer Co. In amongst these, there will also be a host of breweries from across the UK such as BrewDog, Magic Rock and Beavertown, and a mix of international breweries.

London Craft Beer Festival

Living up to Bristol’s reputation as a music loving city there will be numerous acts announced closer to the time. With up to 250 different craft beers to sample, you might want to give yourself a fair amount of time to try them all!

12-14 August Back for its fourth year, the London Craft Beer Festival seems to get bigger every year. This time around, they have over 250 beers, over 30 breweries attending, live music and exciting street food offerings. They have plenty of big name breweries serving up their beer, including a strong selection of local London breweries; with The Kernel, Camden, Beavertown, Weird Beard, Howling Hops, Redemption Brewing and Pressure Drop all in attendance. Fuller’s will be hosting a tap takeover of The Pickle Factory to dispense their cask beers, and, to go with it, there’ll be an American vibe with live music acts playing both country and blues music. It’s not all London breweries, however, with plenty of breweries from around Britain turning up to serve up their beers, including: Magic Rock, Thornbridge, Burning Sky, Siren, Buxton Brewery and Wild Beer. Wider than this, there is a growing interest from international breweries to attend the event from all over the world and this year represents an unofficial Scandinavian takeover. The Festival will feature Omnipollo, Lervig, To-Øl, Sori (Finish, but based in Estonia), and Aegir, to really contribute to the diversity of craft beer offerings.

Leeds International Beer Festival 8-11 September In last month’s Ferment, we talked about some of our favourite bars that we discovered in Leeds so it comes as no surprise that they also have thriving beer festival. Now running into its fifth year, it’s set in and around Leeds’s historic Town Hall, which is architecturally impressive enough to warrant a visit in itself. The Leeds festival has a great

range of craft beers on sale, ranging from Magic Rock Brewing to Sierra Nevada. To go with the hundreds of beer on offer, they have a great selection of food to go with them, including Bundobust who we featured in last month’s magazine. Another great feature is the affordability of tickets, with prices beginning at £6 – which is a snip compared to some of the other prices being charged.

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MAUI BREWING CO.

Photos: Jason Moore & Maui Brewry Co.

Brewed with Aloha

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aui is a small island in the mid-pacific, part of Hawaii. It has a modest population of 150,000 and, as you can imagine, an idyllic way of life. Most activities range from lounging on the beach to snorkeling or windsurfing. With a population so small and a lifestyle so chilled, you would be led to believe that good beer would be at the bottom of most of the residents’ agendas. Well, you’d be wrong, a thriving brewery is nestled in this beautiful setting. Back in 2001, a San Diego Resident, Garret Marrero, visited Hawaii and fell in love with the Islands; a keen home brewer, he then spent the next two years working towards the dream of opening a brewery on Maui. A love of craft beer and the draw of bringing authentic local ale to the island’s people was more than enough to try to realise this dream. Garret had some forays into brewing whilst at college. He fondly remembers brewing a nut brown ale at his mother’s house. It was a brewing kit from a local store but he was making it his own. This didn’t turned out as planned though, as his lack knowledge didn’t account for vigorous fermentation. Needless to say, he arrived home later that day and the beer was all over his mother’s kitchen, which she wasn’t best pleased about. This pretty much ended his brewing career until he decided to move from his job in finance and start the company.

As with any new business, it was opened in 2014. This new brewery has fraught with challenges but, in 2005, allowed them to produce more than Garret produced his first beer at his 45,000 barrels in the first year, with new production facility and brewpub room for expansion. The new facility in Kahana. The brewpub sourced local also features a taproom, brewpub and ingredients to create beer that was a corporate offices. This location also sensation. Maui began packaging in has many conscious environmental cans some time features, including Electric before the “canning charging stations Garret has also Vehicle craze” had really and solar thermal heaters. been involved This consideration started, but the choice was not only towards the environment in changing an environmental deep throughout legislation on runs one. It was best for the Maui Brewing Co. beer, as bottles had to be the Islands brought onto the island have also joined allowing more Maui whereas cans could forces with Stone Brewing producers to be made locally. This Company to help bring commitment to quality more distribution of make more and local provenance top US brands onto the local products. Islands. Maui Stone Craft paid dividends, as they contributed to the local Beverages distribute the economy by creating jobs and, as the likes of Great Divide, Anchor Brewing popularity of the beers and brewpub and, of course, all the best from Stone gained popularity, by further expanding Brewing Co. the business. GABF and WBC awards were also to follow, along with a This brewery and its partnerships have collaboration beer with CAMRA in brought great beer into the hands of the the UK that represented Hawaii in a locals, as well as internationally with nationwide World Beer festival. Vertical Drinks being the exclusive importer to the UK. Garret has also been involved in changing legislation on the Islands Grab a can brewed with Aloha. allowing more producers to make more local products. He was most recently Mana Wheat | 5.5% ABV involved in the passing of Act 211, which was signed to allow small brewers An unfiltered, freshly handcrafted to produce more than the previous American-style Wheat infused with licensing limit of 30,000 US Barrels. Maui Golden Pineapple. It’s a crisp There is now no upper threshold for and refreshing wheat ale that is lightly production, which has led them to hopped to allow the fruity sweetness expand into a new facility at Kihel that of the pineapple to shine. The yeast

stays in suspension making the beer as traditionally cloudy as the German styles. CoCoNut PorTeR | 6.0% ABV CoCoNut PorTeR is a fresh handcrafted, robust Porter brewed with six varieties of malted barley, hops and hand-toasted coconut. It begins with a malty-toasted coconut aroma followed by a rich, silky feel with tastes of dark malt, chocolate and hints of coffee. It then finishes with flavours of toasted coconut and a hoppy spice to balance the finish. Big Swell IPA | 6.8% ABV Big, Hoppy, Bold, Smooth, And Hoppy... Did We Mention Hoppy? This handcrafted India Pale Ale is brewed with four different kinds of Northwestern hops and malted barley, then dry-hopped to perfection. Its flavour begins smooth and malty, which is then followed by a big burst of hops. Doppelshot Doublebock | 8.2% ABV Winter 2015/2016 Limited Release Not your everyday Doppelbock. This unique beer was brewed to showcase the fresh roasted Yellow Caturra MauiGrown coffee from Ka’anapali, Maui. This beer is rich in malt character and brings a slight sweetness to compliment the smooth character of the coffee.

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WILD MUSHROOM STROGANOFF

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Thankfully I moved on from this troubling childhood experience and stroganoff is back on our menu. However, our recipe ditches the meat and uses delicious wild mushrooms as an excellent veggie alternative. Popping beer in the dish is no accident either, is makes the sauce richer and even more hearty with more depth of flavour. We chose the Hardknott Brownian Motion as this dark smoky porter lends a roasted oaty taste to the sauce, which we think works a perfectly with the strong mushroom flavours.

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Photos: Hungry Bears’ Blog

troganoff traditionally is a meaty affair, a hearty dish made with beef and sour cream and served with potatoes. It feels a little strange that my memories of this classic Russian dish take me back to my early school days when a homogeneous gloopy dinner appeared served up on plastic tray, alongside a customary pile of soggy cabbage and ice cream scoops of “mash”.


Recipe Prep Time: 10 mins Cook Time: 30 mins Total Time: 40 mins Serves 2

Ingredients 2 tsp Olive oil 20g Butter 1 Onion finely diced 3 Garlic cloves crushed 2 tsp Smoked sweet paprika 150g Button mushrooms 200g Fresh wild mushrooms 1 Sprig fresh rosemary 100ml Brownian Motion 100ml Beef or mushroom stock 1 tsp Light brown sugar 50ml Soured cream Small bunch fresh parsley Black pepper Salt Wild rice to serve

the sauce from splitting. Now add the sour cream and roughly chopped rosemary and stir through well. Season generously with black pepper and salt. 6. Serve up with a good portion of wild rice, a dollop of sour cream, a sprinkle of paprika and the rest of your beer! Try giving this recipe a go and get creative with your swirly cherry jam on top! Don't forget to send us a pic and let us know how it tasted! Tag us on instagram @thehungrybearsblog and @beer52HQ, or tweet us @hungrybearsblog and @beer52HQ. For more recipe inspiration head over to our blog thehungrybearsblog.com.

Instructions 1. Set a large saucepan on a mediumlow heat. Add the butter, olive oil, onions and garlic. Sweat for 3-5 mins until the onions are translucent. 2. Add the paprika and rosemary and continue to cook for a couple of minutes so the paprika cooks through, stirring well coat all the ingredients. 3. Next add the button mushrooms whole and the wild mushrooms as well. If there are any particularly large mushrooms rip them into small pieces and add to the pan. Cook for 5 minutes to soften the mushrooms. 4. Pour in the beer, stock and sprinkle over the sugar. Stir, cover and continue to cook for 15 minutes. 5. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside for a couple of minutes to cool slightly, this will help prevent Discover craft beer at Beer52.com   FERMENT 27


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WHAT IS BOTTLE CONDITIONING? Words: Erin Bottomley

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ottle conditioned beers are a in comparison to forced carbonation live product that can change which is used in other beers and and enhance over time. soft drinks. The by product of yeast When bottled a small amount of is carbon dioxide and as this is a yeast is added that natural process through causes a secondary bottle conditioning, Bottle fermentation and this gives the beer a maturation whilst conditioned smoothness and easy the beer is in the beers are a live drinking quality. bottle similar to what might happen product that If the yeast is mixed into in cask beer. This can the beer when pouring it can change cause a number of can produce a cloudiness and enhance to the beer. This is not processes to happen: always desired but in over time. It can create a much some cases it is which more complex beer that we will go through below. has much more depth of flavour as subtleties in the beer are allowed to Bottle conditioning has many develop over time. This can create benefits but depending on the style many layers of flavour which change of beer one must act with caution the longer the bottle is left to age. if you want to drink the beer in the best possible state. Here are some It also causes a much more natural handy guidelines to follow: and softer carbonation in the beer

Never store beer lying down, always store up right. This allows for the yeast to collect at the bottom of the bottle instead of up the side of the bottle and in some cases right up to the opening. If you want to avoid having the yeast present in your beer then keep it standing.

When pouring, don’t allow the beer to glug out of the bottle as this will cause the yeast at the bottom to mix with the beer instead hold the bottle horizontal and bring the glass to the bottle rather than the other way round. This way little movement is needed when pouring. Also leave the very end of the beer in the bottle along with the yeast.

For some beers the cloudiness is a good feature and a sign of quality.

For example Hefeweizen should be cloudy and you would be very disappointed if it wasn’t. Many think it is cloudy because it is a wheat beer but it is actually the yeast that makes it so. So when you buy a bottle of the stuff the correct way to pour is pour half the bottle into a glass and then swirl the rest to mix in the yeast and pour the rest in and enjoy. This is the same for many Belgian beers and others where the cloudiness and yeast is intentional. And yeast isn’t bad for you! Brewer’s yeast is a rich source of B-complex vitamins, protein and minerals such as chromium. And really if you want to drink it go ahead it won’t do you any harm but make sure to mix it in well while pouring as drinking just the yeast isn’t the most pleasant experience.

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Ferment // Issue 25  

Ferment

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