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DEC/JAN 2017

L.A. Confidential KELLY SLATER

WORLD’S GREATEST SURFER

MARK CUBAN

MAVERICK BILLIONAIRE

Barbara Palvin

NATURAL BORN

SUPERSTAR

EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF LOS ANGELES

BUGATTI CHIRON ART ON WHEELS

HOLIDAY

GIFT GUIDE

GLENN O’BRIEN

ASK MAXIMUS

ALESSANDRA AMBROSIO’S

GUIDE TO L.A.

PLUS:

RYAN GOSLING BELLA THORNE ARI EMANUEL


“In the midst of chaos, there is also opportunity.” SUN TZU

MAXIM


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A SK M A X IMUS

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Tony Kelly brings color and energy to his images of semiclad women

Our Dictator of Decorum gives style advice for falling temps

The truck that conquers the world’s toughest terrain

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A LE S S A NDR A A MBROSIO

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L.A. favorites of the Victoria’s Secret Angel

Eco-businesses are the surfing legend’s next big wave

HOT LENS

HOLIDAY GIF T GUIDE

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K ING OF THE OFF-ROA D

K ELLY SL ATER

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BA RBA R A PA LV IN

The irreverent personality of a natural beauty

The discerning man’s holiday bounty

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Our insider’s guide to the best of Los Angeles

Head-to-toe moto style for the modern rebel

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LI V E L A RGE

DE STINATION: L.A .

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R A ZOR SH A RP

Up your grooming game with cutting-edge shaving supplies

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BA R E S SENTI A L S

Class up cocktail hour with fine barware and luxe liquor

BUGAT TI CHIRON

A legendary automaker reinvents the supercar

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Essential tomes on style, lingo, and more, curated by Glenn O’Brien

World-class timepieces inspired by the Royal Italian Navy

PA NER A I

DUNE R A IDER

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This Can-Am beast can take on any desert

The high life of the maverick billionaire

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BOOK S

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A RM A NI E XCH A NGE

Light layers to prepare for a West Coast winter

M A RK CUBA N

On the cover: Barbara Palvin wears Mondrian cotton-blend lace pants by Nookie and a vintage gold pendant necklace. Photographed by Gilles Bensimon in Los Angeles.

P H OTO © 2 0 1 6 TO N Y K E L LY. A L L R I G H T S R E S E R V E D. TO N Y K E L LY P H OTO G R A P H Y.C O M

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Ask

MAXIMUS Dictator of Decorum

It’s not cold enough for my winter coat, but I can’t stand my peacoat. Any good suggestions for coats/jackets for the fall? A gent ought to be prepared for any temperature or weather. Nothing looks worse than a guy in a suit scurrying coatless down the avenue in the snow. For seasonal versatility you might go for a trench coat or raincoat with a zip-in lining. Check out Burberry or, at a lesser price, London Fog. One of the great sartorial trends of the last decade is that contradiction in terms, the “slim puffer,” which manages to offer the warmth of goose down in a low profile. They come in vests or jackets, they’ll fit under your regular gear, and they’ll warm up any look. They were invented by the fashionista mountaineers of Moncler but are also available at a nice price from Uniqlo. My significant other loves buying me clothes and accessories for the holidays, but despite meaning well she has a terrible fashion sense. What is something I can ask for that is nearly impossible for her to mess up? How about underwear? At least she’ll be the only

one to see it. Well, you don’t wear those pairs on gym days. Or tell her you need things that tend to be standard. Gloves? How bad can they be? You can always put your hands in your pockets. Fragrance? At least it’s invisible, and you can lie about wearing it with very little chance of getting busted. You can also drop hints. “Oh, I love that black Prada wallet with the zipper coin purse. Great, huh? So tasteful…” Brand name dropping can’t hurt. But you may wind up thinking girlfriend dropping is the answer. Taste is the ultimate deal breaker. Maybe your other isn’t significant enough to believe it. Remember the old Miracles song? “My momma told me, you better shop around.” Get back to me in a few years, when she has more miles on her. Dress shoes in slush and snow are a huge mistake, but most warm boots look absurd once you’re in the office. Any types of boots that can keep you dry on the commute and stylish during work? We’re lucky to be living in the new age of boots. We used to slog about in giant, black buckled overboots that left yeti prints on the urban landscape. There was no other choice. But then, when the New Age outdoorsmen arrived in their luxury lumberjack shirts and selvage overalls, we suddenly discovered an unknown world of beautiful boots made for artisanal farmers, hipster lumberjacks, cross country hikers, and a legion of Indiana Jones wannabes. Do you know Alden’s Indy boots for J.Crew in kudu leather? Red Wing Ice Cutters? L.L.Bean shearlinglined, gumshoe, and Gore-Tex boots? And then there are Timberlands. I’ve been wearing Timberlands with a suit longer than anyone in hip-hop has, and why not? They’re tough, almost bulletproof, and have the traction of a Humvee. If you don’t like how they look indoors, then keep a pair of office shoes on hand and change into something civilized, warm, and dry when you get to work. But even Timberland is going upscale. Its limited-edition, six-inch premium waterproof boots come in a cool charcoal suede that’s actually chic. Is there a right and wrong way to tie a scarf? Yes and no. There are scarves, and then there are scarves; some are primarily for warmth and protection from chilly winds, and some are mostly decorative. For warmth, you want to do as the French do with a long wraparound scarf. You grab it in the middle, make it into a loop, and insert both ends through the loop. You’ll have your neck snugly covered and enough left over to cover the open part of your jacket. How do you think Parisians spend so much time in sidewalk cafés? It’s all made possible by the simplest knot. Column by GL E NN O ’ B R IE N Illustrations by JE A N- P HIL IP P E DE L HO M M E

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Another manly strategy is the ascot knot. You loop the scarf behind your neck so that a quarter of the length is on one side; place the longer end over the short end in front, pass that end up through the loop, then spread the scarf so it covers the breastbone evenly and you feel like Lord Byron. Exactly the way you tie an ascot. You want that cool, continental look? Do you want to avoid wearing the conventional tie that’s part of the uniform for political hacks of every stripe, squares, and office drones? Do you want to open that top shirt button and display something more than a simian thatch of fur? That’s where the smaller, neckerchief-type scarf comes in handy. Fold it lengthwise to get a proper width, and just tie it in front, wearing the knot straight on or slightly to the side. Sound familiar? If you were a Boy Scout, it’ll come right back to you. These are the most basic strategies, but you can have fun just experimenting with loops and knots until you get something good. And sometimes the wrong way looks the best. This was how the famed dandy Beau Brummell spent the better part of his mornings. I’d like to wear a nice suit to a formal event but without a tie. When is a tie absolutely necessary, and when can I get away without wearing one? The word formal is practically devoid of meaning at this stage in the decline and fall of civilization. It was once very simple: Formal meant white tie and tails. Semiformal meant a tuxedo, dinner jacket, or mess jacket. The next category down I suppose you could call dressy or business attire. This too implies a tie. I mean, you can’t wear white tie or black tie without a tie, can you? Well, these creative black-tie cats are still trying on the awards show, but basically, thankfully, even Hollywood has surrendered and reverted to the comforting conformity of the tuxedo. I don’t know what you’re thinking when you hear the f-word, but whatever it is, I doubt that you’re not in compliance. If you want, you can pull off the closed-button look as worn by director David Lynch and various Iranian dignitaries who see the tie as a sort of noose, symbolic of Western decadence, or an arrow pointing out the penis. Some of the better-dressed Iranians, such as Foreign Minister Mohammad Javad Zarif, wear bandcollared shirts buttoned, which looks smart and not underdressed, like former president Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, who, at his most formal, resembled an Uber driver. Of course, nearly anything goes these days, so they probably won’t bar you at the door at your nominally formal event. If you don’t wear a tie, you might consider buttoning up, or sporting a little neckerchief. We don’t want to see your Tom Selleck chest rug. I don’t like ties


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Survive winter in style with a pair of beautiful boots.

but I like accuracy, and formal means “done in accordance with rules of convention or etiquette.” Such a petty rebellion doesn’t pass for daring. I can’t decide between a wallet or a money clip! I like the clean look of the money clip, but

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does it tell everyone who sees it that I’m trying too hard? Well, it does suggest that maybe you don’t have good credit and your license has been revoked for DUI. Money clips are kind of kitsch. So the best are usually those that acknowledge that

spirit. A nice gold dollar sign is about as good as they get, but I’m a bit too conservative for that, and if I were going around cardless, I’d sport one of those sterling silver paper clips. I think Tiffany & Co. introduced the idea, and it is a rather perfect object of irony.

Send questions for Maximus to AskMaximus@maxim.com Follow Glenn O’Brien on Twitter @lordrochester


AN AMERICAN CLASSIC SINCE 1934.


LIFESTYLE

Canyons, Cocktails, and Ocean Views Alessandra Ambrosio’s Guide to the City of Angels

C o l u m n b y AL E S SAN D R A AM B ROS I O Il l u s t ra t e d b y R EG I N A YA Z D I

You don’t need to travel to an exotic location to experience adventure, natural beauty, serene sunsets, and that sense of exhilaration that comes when you’ve reached the top of the mountain that overlooks the sea. When your mantra is “Forever on Vacation,” it becomes a state of mind you carry with you everywhere—even when you’re home. When I don’t go to Brazil for the holidays, I create my own vacation in my hometown of Los Angeles. And of course, it usually involves the ocean. Malibu is legendary for its beaches, Santa Monica has mountains, Venice is full of amazing restaurants, and Brentwood has so many delicious dessert spots. Here are some of my favorite places to visit and a few things to do at home (my gift guide!) that make you feel like you’re #foreveronvacation! 1) Temescal Canyon Loop Trail There’s a seasonal waterfall when you’re halfway up this lush three-mile hike shaded by oak trees, and if a hiking trail can be both romantic and exhilarating, this is it. Dramatic rock formations and looking out over the canyon and the spectacular panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean make you feel free and awe-inspired.

2) Sweet Rose Creamery, Brentwood Country Mart Just the thing for an after-hike indulgence! Sweet Rose Creamery is a great spot—they have small batches of handcrafted organic ice cream with delicious new flavors each month. 3) Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi Located in Santa Monica Canyon, Giorgio Baldi is perfect for a date night, and it has exceptional pasta and wine selections! 4) Gjelina Relaxed Venice vibe with amazing food options (they’re famous for their wood-fired pizzas). I especially love brunch on the laid-back patio. 5) The Beaches in Malibu and Santa Monica These are my two favorite places to watch the sunset and play volleyball. And if you surf (I love to!), it’s fun to know that the legendary Malibu Surfrider Beach is the first World Surfing Reserve! Surfers love it for the perfect swells created by Malibu Point.

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6) Nobu Malibu The best sunset watching in a restaurant! I love Nobu Matsuhisa’s brightly flavored food and sweetly seductive cocktails. 7) Farmshop Artisanal restaurant, bakery, and market with treats from local farmers. I love that it’s right in my neighborhood and not far from the beach—plus, you can’t beat their amazing avocado hummus. 8) The Bike Path Right by the beach in Santa Monica and Venice, this is a great place to Rollerblade and bicycle as you enjoy sand, sun, and sea. (Anything by the beach is always my favorite!)

ALESSANDRA’S GIFT GUIDE With the holidays coming up, I’m starting to think about my shopping list. I love to give things that I enjoy myself. Here are five ways to create moods and magic at home! Séura Outdoor TV Since the weather is so nice in California, I love to entertain in my backyard with a TV and a traditional Brazilian barbecue! Depending on who’s over, we watch sports or catch up on the Game of Thrones episodes I missed while traveling! Ivation Waterproof Bluetooth Floating Speaker I love this very cool outdoor sound system that lets you bring the party with you. It works with most any phone and it is not large, so you can play your favorite tunes no matter where you are. Oculus Rift If you’re not able to go to the beach, you can bring the beach to you via virtual reality! Holî SmartLamp Mood lights are an amazing way to create the perfect party atmosphere. The Holî synchronizes light combos to the mood of the music you’re playing. I love the minimal, artful design of this lamp!

HoMedics HDS-2000 Deep Sleep II Relaxation Sound and White Noise Machine At the end of the day, when you’re tired and want to escape the noise of the outside world, a sound machine can bring you one step closer to the ocean. I like to close the day with the sounds of the sea and an inspirational book. Sweet dreams!


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STYLE

No. 1

No. 3

LIVE LARGE

No. 2

First-rate gifts for the discerning gentleman

Photographed b y MARK PL ATT Styled b y ANDREW PORTER

No. 4 No. 9

No. 5

No. 10

No. 11 No. 8

No. 7

No. 15 No. 12

No. 6

No. 14

No. 13

1. Gisele Bündchen book, TASCHEN. 2. Case, BOTTEGA VENETA. 3. X100T camera, FUJIFILM. 4. Whisky, JOHNNIE WALKER. 5. Eau de toilette, PRADA. 6. Boots, MONCLER. 7. Voyager watch, LOUIS VUITTON. 8. Headphones, MASTER & DYNAMIC. 9. 360 camera, NIKON. 10. Cedar-scented soy candle, LE LABO. 11. Speaker, B&O Play. 12. Key fob, TESLA. 13. Flask, BARBOUR. 14. Corkscrew, RBT. 15. Decanter, WATERFORD. For more information, see page 94.


STYLE

EASY RIDER

No. 1

Find your rebellious side with this hard-edged collection

No. 8 No. 9

No. 7

No. 2

No. 3

No. 6

No. 5

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1. Helmet, SCHUBERTH. 2. Sunglasses, NORTHERN LIGHTS OPTIC. 3. Watch, HYT. 4. Boots, JOHN LOBB (available at mrporter.com). 5. Gloves, WANT LES ESSENTIELS. 6. Bag, BUSCEMI. 7. Jacket, BELSTAFF (available at mrporter.com). 8. Belt, STEFANO RICCI (available at neimanmarcus.com). 9. Rings, THOMAS SABO. For more information, see page 94.

COURTESY OF THE BR ANDS

No. 4


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GROOMING

RAZOR SHARP Up your grooming game this holiday season with these top-shelf essentials P h o t o g ra p h e d b y M AR K P L AT T S t y l e d b y AN D R E W P O RT ER

Top, from left: Brow gel comb, TOM FORD. Cologne, ACQUA DI PARMA. Facial scrub, PENHALIGON’S. Pomade, LAVETT&CHIN. Skin toner, KIEHL’S. Eye cream, DR. BARBARA STURM. Shaving cream, SUSANNE KAUFMANN. Hair paste, MITCH BY PAUL MITCHELL. Skin cleanser, LAB SERIES. Electric shaver, BRAUN. Bottom, from left: Razor, HARRY’S. Shaving brush and stand, ART OF SHAVING. Hair styling compound, PATRICKS. Skin hydrating emulsion, COSMEDIX. Hair wax, SACHAJUAN. Exfoliating tonic, CLINIQUE FOR MEN. Skin rejuvenating serum, LAB SERIES. Beard and face oil, MARTIAL VIVOT. Antiaging cream, PERRICONE MD. Toothbrush, FOREO. Lip balm, BAXTER OF CALIFORNIA. For more information, see page 94. 20

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DRINK

BAR ESSENTIALS

Clockwise from top left: Cocktail shaker, COCKTAIL KINGDOM. Tumblers, BACCARAT. Coasters, MATCH. Scotch whisky, LAGAVULIN. Champagne sabre, GEORG JENSEN. Wine set, CEDES MILANO (available at mrporter.com). Rum, RON ZACAPA. Flask, SIR JACK’S. For more information, see page 94.

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CO U RT E SY O F T H E B R A N DS ; M O N DA D O R I P O RT FO L I O V I A G E T T Y I M AG E S

Ring in the New Year with luxe liquor and fine barware to make perfect cocktails


BOOKS

Glenn O’Brien’s Library

The all-time best books for style, lingo, etiquette, and more Te x t b y G L EN N O ’ B R I EN

Sartorial knowledge The authority I look up to on the subject of menswear is Alan Flusser, who owns a small, supersophisticated  tailoring and haberdashery shop in Manhattan. His books not only explain the evolution of men’s clothes, but they form a solid foundation for dressing with knowledge, style, and relevance. His Style & the Man is a gem of a handbook that goes through the entire wardrobe. It’s also a great guide for the traveling shopper—small enough to fit in a briefcase as he guides you through the 17 best shopping cities in the world. For more depth, check out his larger, well-illustrated volumes Dressing the Man and Clothes and the Man, both of which delve into the more obscure details of high style.

Lingo Straight from the Fridge, Dad: A Dictionary of Hipster Slang by Max Décharné is a charming compilation of beat lingo, replete with references from literature and cinema. Shovel city! means “I dig it.” Slinky piece of homework translates to “good-looking woman.” For a fresh approach, combine modern usages from Clarence Major’s Juba to Jive: Dictionary of Afro-American Slang, spiced with some nice antiquities from the 1811 Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue or The Slang Dictionary, published by Chatto & Windus, and peppered with selections from Leo Rosten’s The Joys of Yiddish. Gin referred to as “blue ruin” and brandy as “bingo”? Yes!

Eating and drinking By far the most knowledgeable, entertaining, and well-written book on drinking and cooking for oneself is The Gentleman’s Companion by

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Charles H. Baker Jr., originally published in 1939 in a two-volume set. The cookbook is titled Around the World with Knife, Fork and Spoon; the drinking volume is called Around the World with Jigger, Beaker and Flask. His extensive travels make him seem to have been a bar hopper of nearly infinite range. As a yachtsman, he sailed around the world three times; he drank with Hemingway and Faulkner—and he got it all down in delightful prose and with accurate, well-tested drink recipes.

Etiquette Perhaps you’ve noticed that the least costly items in any used book store—except manuals for obsolete computers—are etiquette books. This shouldn’t come as a surprise, if you’ve paid any attention at all to the recent presidential contest. I’m fond of Our Deportment by John H. Young, from 1879, which laments that a unibrow is incurable and best left alone. The classic, of course, is still Etiquette by Emily Post (first edition 1922), which reminds us how rich we once were (“When you are staying at a house with very few servants…”).

Cultivated obscurity Everyone knows well-rounded men, but it is the spectacularly eccentric savant who truly impresses. An incomparable tool for the exquisite oddball, Brewer’s Dictionary of Phrase & Fable is chock-full of old saws and parables. What is an accolade? It’s when the king touches one’s shoulder with his sword. What is moly and why is it holy? It’s the herb given to Ulysses as an antidote against sorcery. The “last trump”? Brewer’s defined the phrase as “the final end of all things earthly; the Day of Judgment.”

General advice The best advice book ever written is The Unexpurgated Code: A Complete Manual of Survival & Manners by J. P. Donleavy (1975). The Irish-American author of many amusing novels, including The Ginger Man, takes on subjects such as how to die (including suicide and execution instructions), impromptu combat, and abandoning a ship or aircraft. He offers counsel for those stung on the end of their prick by a bee on a golf course or dealing with the insane. This is a surprisingly modern volume, holding up well more than 40 years later. I highly recommend the Duke of Bedford’s Book of Snobs, which is a 1965 remake of Thackeray’s 1848 book of the same name—two studies of upward mobility in their time. It may interest you to know that snob is derived from sine nobilitate, or without nobility. The late Duke suggests having the butler wear your new suits first so they don’t appear too new when you get to them, and owning “either one of the two most expensive makes of car or else a compact. There is nothing in between.” He added, “Being an upstart is, perhaps, natural to many human beings. Being a downstart is much rarer; but also much wiser.”

P H I L P OY N T E R / T R U N K A R C H I V E

A new age of illiteracy has overtaken us. It’s hardly surprising, as reading has been losing favor with audiences for decades, first to radio, then television, then supertelevision—i.e., cable with hundreds of choices—and now the infinity of the Internet. It might be argued to the contrary—that the Internet has made us superliterate by putting vast troves of information at our fingertips—but let’s be accurate: It is a wealth of information, but it isn’t organized. There is no curriculum. There are no guides. You’re on your own in that data jungle. To learn, to be polished, to acquire culture is still best achieved through books. And even if you don’t read them, books will impress those you encounter. Chances are, visitors to a book-crammed home will assume that they have stumbled upon a sophisticated prodigy. Don’t let on otherwise. But even better is to acquire a library that is actually useful. What follows is a brief list of volumes that will help you navigate this vulgar world with panache, impressing some you encounter, intimidating others—all while bringing you the satisfaction enjoyed by those with superior intelligence.


GET E XC L U S I V E ACC E SS S I G N U P F O R YO U R W E E K LY MAXIM NEWSLETTER G O TO M A X I M .C O M / N E W S L E T T E R


ADVENTURE

DUNE RAIDER

T H I S PA G E : C O U R T E S Y O F C A N - A M . O P P O S I T E PA G E : C O U R T E S Y O F T H E B R A N D S

Conquer the world’s nastiest off roads with the Maverick X3 Turbo R

Turn any desert, trailway, or backwoods into your personal playground with the latest off-road machine from Can-Am. The Maverick X3 Turbo R lets you attack sand dunes with reckless abandon, thanks to a 900-cc, threecylinder engine featuring a turbocharger and an integrated intercooler, with 154 horsepower to tackle extreme inclines or tear across terrain of dubious quality. Combined with a lightweight chassis, this is enough to power the X3 to 60 mph in less than five seconds. The Maverick X3 is an SSV, or side-by-side vehicle, providing the performance and mobility of an ATV while enabling multiple riders to join the adventure. It features a suspension system that’s ready for anything, and keeps its steel frame from bottoming out with the help of Fox 2.5 Podium Piggyback shocks that allow for both front and rear 20-inch wheel travel. This cushioning is enhanced by 14-inch aluminum wheels and 28-inch Maxxis Bighorn tires, meaning the Maverick can easily clear rocks, tree roots, and other obstacles without damaging the undercarriage. Getting to terrain rough enough to challenge the Maverick X3’s off-road capabilities means leaving the beaten trail far behind. Thanks to the X3’s 40-liter fuel tank, riders can journey into the great outdoors without the risk of being stranded far from civilization. —Keith Gordon

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SURVIVE IN STYLE Own the elements with this awesome outdoor gear Stay warm in any conditions with the Maitland Parka by Canada Goose, which combines an urban design with the ability to protect you down to -50F. Transport everything you need with the Ghurka Cavalier No. 96 duffel bag, designed tough enough for your outdoor adventures but stylish enough for dayto-day use. Capture the beauty around you with the Alpa 12 SWA Anniversary Edition Set of camera and accessories, which allows for both analog and digital photography. It’s limited to a run of just 20 units, so get yours quickly. The Rokon Trail-Breaker, perhaps the most rugged off-road trail bike on the market today, is trusted by the U.S. military to go where no other motorized vehicles even dream of reaching. —KG


VIEW FROM THE TOP

KING OF THE OFF-ROAD Jimco trucks win races while conquering the world’s toughest terrain

CO U RT E SY O F J I M CO R AC I N G I N C .

Imagine you’re driving across a desert wasteland. Hundreds of inhospitable miles stand between you and your destination. The land is rugged and the roads—the few that exist—are unreliable at best. That repair station in the distance? A mirage. Better pray you’re driving one of these fiberglass monsters from Jimco Racing. With a body inspired by the Ford Raptor, the Class 6100 Trophy Truck Spec is designed to handle the very worst that races such as the Baja 1000 can throw at it. With 26-inch wheel travel up front and 32-inch at the rear, it has no problem speeding over rocks and other obstacles. If you hit a boulder, the 39-inch racing tires can absorb the impact and keep you in the race. Although the truck gets just 2.5 to 3 miles per gallon, an 80-gallon fuel cell extends the range to 200-plus miles, helping you reach the next gas stop. Believe it or not, this beast is the little brother of the full Trophy Truck series. In an effort to limit costs and attract more teams, the 6100 series utilizes only factory-spec V-8 engines. Race organizers maintain a level playing field by outlawing tuning and alterations to ensure that each truck has similar power and torque. The most popular engine is the 6.2-liter Chevy LS3, which has an output of around 430 horsepower. All competitors must use a similar Turbo 400 automatic transmission. Despite this attempt at parity, Jimco— whose trucks have raced in far-flung places like Australia, China, Russia, France, and Mexico—has been named the top chassis builder 21 years running (and 22 times total) by Score International, the sport’s governing body. Whether crossing Baja or the outback, Jimco trucks deliver the speed to win and the strength to survive conditions that can fell even the world’s most rugged vehicles. —Keith Gordon

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THE ONLY ROAD TO SAVINGS •BEST TRUCKERS INSURANCE •BEST RATES •BEST CLAIMS SERVICE •BEST TECHNOLOGY

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KELLY SLATER’S

NEXT RIDE

The most accomplished surfer on the planet is creating a suite of global brands based on sustainability and imagination

Te x t b y T I M S T R U BY


O P P O S I T E PA G E : D U S T I N H U M P H R E Y. T H I S PA G E : B J O R N I O O S S / T R U N K A R C H I V E . N E X T S P R E A D : E D S LO A N E

n the predawn chill of December 5, 2015, Kelly Slater pulled on his wetsuit, grabbed his board, and dove into the water. Although Slater, an 11-time World Champion surfer, had taken a similar predawn plunge countless times before, this morning was different. With onlookers that included fellow World Surf League pros Nat Young and women’s champion Carissa Moore, the 44-year-old paddled out and caught a wave that may turn out to have been the most groundbreaking ride of his life. Carving up and down the face with the smooth slashes of a fencer’s blade, Slater dipped into the wave’s barrel. There, crouched in what surfers call the “green room,” Slater rode for what seemed like an eternity. As he emerged from the tube, he triumphantly threw up his arms while the crowd cheered, because this was no ordinary wave. Slater wasn’t in the Pacific Ocean but rather 110 miles inland, on a man-made lake in California’s San Joaquin Valley. And the wave wasn’t a product of Mother Nature but of Slater himself. Through the Kelly Slater Wave Company (KSWC), the surfer and entrepreneur has spearheaded a decade-long quest to build the perfect artificial wave. He had a vision of bringing surfing to landlocked states and countries and, in doing so, revolutionizing the sport. “I’ve been waiting for this moment since 2005,” he said in a video posted that December. “This is the best man-made wave ever made.” Vision has always been an integral part of Slater’s success. Growing up in Cocoa Beach, Florida, he and his older brother, Sean, with whom he surfed, did not have the luxury of big West Coast swells. That meant making the most of smaller surf, seeing something—a spot for an aerial, a chance for one last cutback— where others saw little. At 18, Slater turned professional and quickly won his first pro contest, the Body Glove Surf Bout, at Lower Trestles in California. He signed a six-figure deal with Quiksilver. Two years later, he claimed his first World Championship, the youngest surfer in history to do so. Slater mania was born. He was a regular on Baywatch and dated celebrities like Pamela Anderson and Gisele Bündchen. He modeled underwear for Versace and opened for Pearl Jam with his own band, the Surfers. All the while Slater kept winning, including five consecutive World Championships from 1994 to 1998. He possessed extraordinary talent and indefatigable hunger, but what really separated him from the rest was his inventiveness. Surfing, at its core, is as much art as sport. Greatness requires improvisation and pushing limits à la Miles Davis or Pablo Picasso, and no one was more imaginative than the kid from Florida. Then Slater retired, only to return to the WSL Tour (formerly called the Association of Surfing Professionals) in 2003 and eventually win five more titles, the most recent in 2011. In an interview, the surfing magazine Stab asked him to describe himself in clinical terms. Slater replied, half-joking: “Obsessive-compulsive disorder mixed with a little borderline addictive personality disorder when it comes to things he loves.” While his love of surfing hasn’t waned, he shouldn’t, theoretically, still

Slater, an 11-time champion, is “trying to do some good in the world”

be competing. The average age of the rest of the WSL’s top 10 surfers is 26.3, and Slater is nearly twice as old as 24-year-old points leader John John Florence. Yet on August 23, there was the senior citizen of pro surfing beating Florence in the final of the Billabong Pro Tahiti. With his showing at Teahupo’o, one of the most powerful breaks in the world, Slater earned his 55th elite tour win, further cementing his legacy. For the past few years, however, the greatest surfer of all time has sought more than great waves. “He’s trying to do some good in the world,” says Pete Johnson, an Oahu, Hawaii, native who’s been friends with Slater for 30 years. “He’s passionate about other things and aspires to be a better man.” Slater is a voracious reader, whether the subject is business, nutrition, or cancer, the disease that took his father in 2002. He’s handson with the Kelly Slater Foundation, which has supported the fight against cystic fibrosis and melanoma. He’s become more conscientious, making sure to take time to call friends going through hard times. He’s expanding his horizons. Evolving. “I strive to be better and better in all aspects of my life and to learn as much as I can about the things that interest me,” Slater tells Maxim. Two of Slater’s most recent interests have been developed with the same vision he first brought to Cocoa Beach. In 2014, he broke ties with Quiksilver after 23 years to form his own clothing line, Outerknown. Employing the talents of designer and fellow surfer John Moore, founder of the acclaimed surf lifestyle label M.Nii, and Julie Gilhart, the former fashion director of Barneys New York, Slater sought to create a brand that was surfer chic as opposed to beach bro. Outerknown launched in July 2015, and Slater has insisted on couture with a conscience. “I wanted to create an independent, socially compliant supply chain and use environmentally friendly textiles and materials,” Slater explains, pointing out the label’s use of organic cotton and hemp, regenerated Italian wool, and recycled fishing nets. Describing Outerknown, he uses words like integrity, transparency, and sustainability. “Sustainability comes from the materials that go into making the clothes and workplace conditions being up to scratch,” he says. “The things behind the scenes were as important to me as the end product.” Slater is a co-owner of Firewire Surfboards, and this year the company launched, for the first time, a set of boards of his own design. Like Outerknown, Firewire focuses on sustainability, and it’s the first global manufacturer to have every board it makes qualify for Sustainable Surf ’s Ecoboard certification. “In the past couple of years I’ve been taking a bigger interest in things I’m involved with,” Slater says. “Board design is a natural thing for me anyway, and I never stop working on it, so it was natural to start something that was right in my wheelhouse.” As for his other passion project, KSWC, the possibilities are staggering. No longer beholden to geography and unreliable ocean swells, the sport could potentially explode—training centers across the globe, surfers able to refine their skills 365 days a year. Instead of golf, resorts could

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offer guests the chance to catch a wave. The KSWC wave could help the industry’s dream of making surfing an Olympic sport become a reality. Yet like Slater himself, the wave project is a work in progress. “It didn’t disappoint,” says Johnson, who at Slater’s behest surfed the KSWC wave three months ago. “But Kelly’s always seeking to improve it.” While at the San Joaquin Valley property, Slater constantly tested variable power levels, fiddled with different speeds, and took copious notes. Perfection may take a while, but the world’s greatest surfer isn’t complaining. “It’s great to start out big and fast if you can sustain that,” he says. “But you get the last laugh if you work out how to have the longevity you’d imagine you can have with a fresh mind and a healthy approach.”


The World’s Greatest Surfer Ranked No. 1 by Surfer on its 2010 list of the “50 Greatest Surfers of All Time” Became youngest ever professional surfing champion (at age 20)

Slater’s creativity in the water has made him a surfing icon for more than 25 years

11-time World Champion (most ever) 19-time Surfer Magazine Readers Poll Award (’93–’01, ’04-’13) 6-time Pipeline Masters Champion


Lurex dress with puffed sleeves and pumps with floral embellishment, DOLCE & GABBANA. Vintage gold pendant necklace, stylist’s own (worn throughout). Opposite page: H.H. Bey nylon hat, ERIC JAVITS.


IN HER

ELEMENT

Barbara Palvin has emerged as one of the world’s top supermodels thanks to her natural beauty and irreverent personality Te x t b y S A R AH H O R N E G RO S E P h o t o g ra p h e d b y G I L L E S B EN S I M O N S t y l e d b y C ARO L I N E C H R I S T I AN S S O N


W

herever Barbara Palvin goes, there’s a little dust storm of controversy. Back when she was a 19-year-old Victoria’s Secret model, Selena Gomez fans blamed her for the singer’s breakup with Justin Bieber after Palvin was spotted with him at a Broadway show. Palvin has since been linked to One Direction’s Niall Horan; she’s been seen partying with Ed Sheeran; and, since the Cannes Film Festival in 2016, she’s been rumored to be dating Formula 1 racer Lewis Hamilton. On the day I chatted with Palvin, who is at home in the countryside outside of Budapest, she laughed at her reputation as a man-eater—though the laughter was undercut by a clear note of annoyance. Days earlier, a British tabloid posted a picture of her sitting on a man’s lap at an event for the Italian lingerie brand Intimissimi. “That’s not Lewis Hamilton! Barbara Palvin gets cozy with mystery man,” the headline gasped. “Normally, I don’t let it get to me,” she tells me. The “mystery man” was, in fact, her Italian agent, a dear friend. “I actually hang out with a lot of guys, and whenever I hang out with a famous guy, I’m instantly dating them. So I just laugh it off.” This time, though, Palvin said the comments crossed the line. “It was: ‘Of course she’s hitting on that guy. He’s probably old and rich.’ Oh bravo, Daily Mail !” No, Palvin doesn’t need to date rich men to belong to the jet set. “It drives me a little crazy that people would think that.” If you happen to be one of Barbara Palvin’s 4.2 million Instagram followers, you might imagine that her days off are spent perfecting her enviable pout in a series of luxury hotel suites, flying in helicopters, or taking romantic trips by vaporetto across the Venice lagoon. Indeed, the 23-year-old model has had a particularly glamorous year: The Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue’s 2016 Rookie of the Year and face of Armani’s Acqua di Gioia stunned on red carpets at the Venice Film Festival; she’s shot a number of top secret campaigns and posed for L’Oréal Paris, where she’s the beauty brand’s youngest-ever spokesperson. But it’s not all fast cars and lounging by the pool in Saint-Tropez. Whenever she’s not shooting for international fashion magazines, Palvin returns to her roots in Europe. At home, she says, “I have a garden. We have fresh tomatoes and strawberries. People are different here.… People out in California, they grow up quicker. They have a lot of excess, and they have a lot more things than we do here in Hungary. There, they start doing makeup when they’re 13, when we would still be out in the countryside making sausage.”

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Excuse me? Oh yes, says Palvin, brightening. “We make all these amazing sausages. When I was growing up, we would wake up at 4 a.m. and catch the animals. You see, this is the sort of thing I get myself in trouble for.” But Palvin keeps going. In the Hungarian countryside, she adds, people wake up and do a shot of pálinka, a lip-curling fruit brandy. “It’s very healthy for your digestion.” When I ask if she ascribes to other die-hard Hungarian customs, she returns to her native tongue and confers with her tight-knit family, who happen to be in the room. “I talk with them every day when I’m away. They’re sitting here with me, so I have to say nice things.” In just a few days, says Palvin, she’ll jet off to meet a bigwig fashion person, and her management team has also suggested she put on the brakes. “I mean, they’ll say ‘Just be yourself,’ but I can be too much. I don’t try to impress people. Sometimes my jokes can be very harsh; I’m very sarcastic. I would joke about something disgusting, and my agent might be like, ‘OK, maybe leave that behind for this one meeting. The burping? Maybe don’t do that.’ ” It is perhaps because of Palvin’s devil-may-care attitude that she has gravitated to other

“WHENEVER I HANG OUT WITH A FAMOUS GUY, I’M INSTANTLY DATING THEM. SO I JUST LAUGH IT OFF.” off-the-cuff beauties, like her good friend Stella Maxwell, who was once her roommate in New York. “There are a lot of competitive girls in the industry, so you just find the ones who share your mentality.” Competitive, perhaps not. But Palvin is no doubt ambitious. She’d love to land the cover of French Vogue and break into acting. “Something that is out of my comfort zone, because people see me as this innocent, doll-faced beauty. It’s super weird to say that about myself, I know. But now my reputation is turning into ‘Oh, she’s sexy,’ which is better. I want to play a psycho, something more challenging than just ‘the girlfriend’ part.” And when the glamour or the rumors all become a little too much, Palvin says that she curls up in her room for a siesta and watches some SpongeBob. “Is that weird? I mean, really, sometimes that’s all I want to do.” Incongruous maybe, but that’s what this supermodel does best. Lace underwire bra and high-waist lace corset brief, NORMA KAMALI. Cat-eye acetate sunglasses, SELIMA FOR PAMELA LOVE. Patent leather mules, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN.


Cotton-blend, lace-up bodysuit, stylist’s own.


Sheer polka-dot dress, NEVER FULLY DRESSED. Sterling silver and 18K gold-plated necklace with Swarovski crystals, BONHEUR JEWELRY.

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Vintage lace bralet and skirt, stylist’s own.

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Sheer chiffon cape, BALMAIN AT CLOAK.


Sheer tulle-net puff jacket, LANVIN AT CLOAK. For more information, see page 94. Hair, Gareth Bromell for Art Department using L’Oréal Tecni.Art products. Makeup, Silver Bramham for Art Department using L’Oréal Paris products. Nails, Barbara Warner at Jed Root using POI The Beige of Reason.


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The iconic glass-walled Stahl House. Modern Christmas Trees were originally conceived in 1966 and reimagined in 2011. To see the full line of trees, visit modernchristmastrees.com. To visit the Stahl House, go to stahlhouse.com.


CALI.

LOS ANGELES

L.A. CONFIDENTIAL

Los Angeles is so much more than beaches, bikinis, and movie stars. Sure, it has plenty of those. But these days the city boasts some of the coolest restaurants, bars, and neighborhoods in the country. Here, our insider’s guide to L.A. C u ra t e d b y L I N D S AY S I L B ER M AN


ROOFTOP BARS Upstairs at Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles 929 South Broadway, Los Angeles; 213-623-3233

Situated atop the landmark 1927 United Artists building, this hip indoor-outdoor lounge offers an urban sanctuary in the heart of Downtown L.A. (DTLA). The stylish Moroccan-themed decor comes from local design collective Commune, with a concrete pool inspired by the late artist Donald Judd’s residence in Marfa. Cocktails pay tribute to neighborhoods like Little Tokyo and Hollywood & Vine, while mouthwatering snacks include California-style avocado toast and Flamin’ Hot Cheetos.

Catch LA 8715 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; 323-347-6060

Since opening in late September, this West Coast outpost of the NYC favorite has become the place to see and be seen in the City of Angels. The sprawling 12,000-square-foot space features an expansive, 340seat outdoor dining area—complete with a retractable roof for the rare L.A. rainy day—overlooking the twinkling West Hollywood Design District. But it’s the scene inside that offers the most impressive views of all, best enjoyed from a corner banquette over a plate of truffle tuna sashimi.

Mama Shelter 6500 Selma Ave., Los Angeles; 323-785-6666

Nestled above the sixth story of Mama Shelter Los Angeles—the first U.S. location of the cult Parisian hotel brand—this lively year-old roofdeck features 360-degree views that stretch from the Hollywood sign to DTLA, and sometimes all the way to the Pacific Ocean. Mama Shelter’s aesthetic takes inspiration from the tropics, with vibrant-hued wooden tables and chairs and a palapastyle bar. The palm tree–lined space serves a Mediterranean menu for lunch and dinner, and has its own outdoor movie screen.

E.P. & L.P. 603 North La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood; 310-856-9955

The epic 5,500-square-foot rooftop bar—with lush landscaping, oversize deck chairs, a communal fire pit, and prime views of the Hollywood Hills—is one of the top draws at this two-level hot spot, which opened in May 2015. Aussie-Fijian chef Louis Tikaram serves up Southeast Asian small plates like soft-shell-crab bao and organic tofu fries alongside inventive drinks—go for one of his signature bubble tea cocktails featuring fruit-flavored boba pearls. Full dinners can be enjoyed in the bustling restaurant below.

Perch 448 Hill St., Los Angeles; 213-802-1170

Floating 16 stories above the city skyline, this Frenchstyle bistro and lounge elevated—quite literally—the downtown L.A. nightlife scene when it opened in 2011. Order the Penicillin—a bibulous concoction of Famous Grouse Scotch, lemon juice, agave nectar, and ginger elixir—and post up by one of the ornate outdoor fireplaces under the stars. —Amanda Eberstein 46

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CALI.

LOS ANGELES

E.P. & L.P. is a 5,500-square-foot rooftop bar that overlooks the Hollywood Hills


CALI.

LOS ANGELES

NIGHTLIFE The Walker Inn

boat—the kitschy-fun spot features classic tropical cocktails like Mai Tais and Fog Cutters, live performers, and seafood-centric fare.

3612 West 6th St., Los Angeles; 213-263-2709

A place for serious cocktail enthusiasts, this 27seat Koreatown den is accessed via a discreet entry behind the Normandie Club at Hotel Normandie. Make a reservation in advance to secure a spot at the seven-person bar, where the Walker Inn’s talented mixologists lead guests through an omakase experience of two or more carefully crafted cocktail courses. The menu changes about every six weeks and always sticks to a specific idea. Previous themes have run the gamut from “Pacific Coast Highway” to “Wet (Hot) American Summer.”

Doheny Room 9077 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood; 424-777-0266

The latest concept from the hospitality wizards at SBE Entertainment, this restaurant-cum-lounge is where the pretty young things of Los Angeles go to let loose. Wednesdays or Saturdays are promoter nights—meaning you should probably know someone if you want to get past the velvet ropes. Once in, grab a table by the tropical wall, order a Delgado Dorado, and soak in the scene.

The Nice Guy 401 North La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles; 310-360-9500

A favorite of the young Hollywood set— yes, that very well may be Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner in the corner—this reservations-only lounge from the H.Wood Group resembles an old-school mafia bar, with comfy diner-style booths and a simple menu of Italian classics including fried mozzarella and lasagna. Drinks like the Bobby Soxer (Jameson Black whiskey, fresh lemon juice, and cayenne pepper) and Polkey Punch (a blend of Havana Club rums, Hennessy VSOP cognac, pineapple, and cloves) keep the party going all night.

MmHmmm at The Standard, Hollywood Clifton’s Cafeteria

8300 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; 323-650-9090

After a five-year restoration, the city’s oldest cafeteria-style food hall reopened in 2015 as a multiuse dining and nightlife destination. The newest addition to the historic six-story space is the just-opened tiki bar, the Pacific Seas, up an obscured staircase on the fourth floor. Decorated in a vintage, Polynesian style—think traditional thatch work, a hand-painted mural, and a bar made from a Chris Craft mahogany

Hidden behind the kitchen at André Balazs’ Standard, Hollywood, this underground nightclub is known for its raucous dance parties that draw the elite Hollywood crowd—the likes of Mick Jagger, Kate Beckinsale, and Bradley Cooper. The scene is especially A-list on Saturday nights, when the hot spot transforms into Giorgio’s, a swinging discotheque complete with a sparkling silver disco ball and a ’70s soundtrack to match.

Beacher’s Madhouse 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-785-3036

After a brief hiatus, this quirky vaudevilleinspired nightclub made its triumphant return to the newly renovated theater at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel in October. In addition to the usual cast of zany characters—like the infamous Flying Little Person bartenders— look for new additions, such as a mini Kanye West and sultry burlesque dancers. —AE

O P E N I N G S P R E A D : J C B U C K . P R E V I O U S S P R E A D : A L E N L I N / E . P. & L . P. T H I S PA G E : H E E B P H OTO S / E S TO C K P H OTO

648 South Broadway, Los Angeles; 213-627-1673

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HOLLYWOOD’S REDHEADED REBEL

L U K E D E VA L / C O N TO U R BY G E T T Y I M A G E S

Bella Thorne really, really doesn’t care what you think about her Bella Thorne stopped concerning herself with how the public perceived her right around the time she left the Disney Channel in 2013. She might have made her name at the Mouse House, but those days are already long behind the scrappy 19-year-old actress. Among her many projects—the horror film Keep Watching, out this month, and Amityville: The Awakening, coming in January, to name a couple—she’s perhaps best known for not giving a damn in a city where reputation means everything. Thorne doesn’t care what you think about her racy Instagrams or her scantily clad Snapchats. Your thoughts about her breakup with one actor and new romance with another don’t faze her one bit. And what did you make of her tweet acknowledging that, yes, she is bisexual? Don’t even bother. “I used to be upset when I would see the comments,” she says. “But I’ve started to realize that they may be going out of their way to make people feel bad about themselves because they have their own insecurities.” But even Thorne has a breaking point: “Sometimes I just want to say, ‘Fuck ’em, get off my socials, dawg.’  ” In L.A., where celebrities are skittish about every sound bite, Thorne knows—and plays to—her massive audience better than almost anyone. And what an audience it is. With 14 million Instagram followers, her fan base surpasses the population of Hong Kong, Ireland, and Fiji—combined. Perhaps that’s what makes the tattooed Florida native feel so refreshing among the hordes of Hollywood strivers. It’s rare to find a young star so unfiltered. “There’s always somebody that tells me to change,” she says, “but my fan base likes me because I’m a regular teenage girl, and if you don’t like it, don’t follow me.” She talks about her love of fried food, battling acne, overcoming dyslexia, crushing on singer Demi Lovato, and shunning the Hollywood scene for nights in with friends and her two cats. Thorne isn’t exactly new to the spotlight. She booked her first modeling shoot at six months old and has been working on back lots longer than some of her tween fans have been alive. She’s appeared on The O.C., Entourage, Big Love, and MTV’s Scream. She’s even released an EP and penned three novels. But Disney is where she first found fame, and her candor is perhaps a rebellion against the pressures she faced as a young actress. “I just wanted to please everybody,” she has said of her three years on the wholesome dance show Shake It Up. “I wanted to be what everyone else wanted me to be: the funniest, the prettiest, the most interesting, the one with the sweetest voice, all that shit.” Thorne’s star is sure to rise in 2017. Next year her new TV series, Famous in Love, debuts, and she will appear with Kit Harington, Natalie Portman, and Jessica Chastain in director Xavier Dolan’s film The Death and Life of John F. Donovan. She’ll also star in next summer’s Midnight Sun, a romantic drama with Patrick Schwarzenegger, Arnold’s son. With her growing fame and refreshingly contrarian attitude, Thorne is fast becoming Hollywood’s foremost inside outsider. —Kara Cutruzzula

Actress Bella Thorne has more than 14 million followers on Instagram


CALI.

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Gjelina 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; 310-450-1429

Since opening in 2008, this perennially packed eatery has helped transform the once sleepy Venice surfing haven into a highly sought-after neighborhood. The rustic space has a humming communal bar area in the front and a courtyard in the back, with farm-to-table plates meant for sharing. Start with one of Chef Travis Lett’s signature flatbread pizzas before moving on to the grilled lamb ribs and crispy duck confit.

Tower Bar 8358 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; 323-654-7100

Located inside Jeff Klein’s Sunset Tower Hotel, this elegant dining room and terrace strikes the perfect balance between starstudded and understated. Legendary maître d’ Dimitri Dimitrov watches over the intimate, 80-seat space, where classic American dishes like burgers and clams casino combine with one of the best dirty martinis in town to offer an Old Hollywood feel.

Nobu Malibu 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu; 310-317-9140

Yes, chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s sushi is delicious, but at this sexy hot spot overlooking the Pacific Ocean on Carbon Beach, it’s all about

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the scene. Open in this location since 2012, the clean-lined wooden space has quickly become an L.A. icon, with an expansive outdoor terrace and oceanfront seating that caters to the city’s who’s who. And now, with Soho House’s new Malibu outpost next door, the crowds—and paparazzi—show no sign of slowing down.

Bestia 2121 East 7th Pl., Los Angeles; 213-514-5724

The Italian cult favorite is widely credited with ushering in a new era of sophisticated dining in DTLA, and rightfully so. The husbandand-wife team of Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis opened the industrial-style spot in 2012 and it’s been serving mouthwatering regional cuisine ever since. The food, made almost entirely in-house, includes handmade pastas and savory creations like roasted marrow bone and grilled whole branzino.

Jon & Vinny’s 412 North Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles; 323-334-3369

Groundbreaking Los Angeles chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo have tackled nearly every type of cuisine. After bursting onto the dining scene in 2008 with Animal, a meat-centric restaurant, they followed up with seafood (Son of a Gun) and high-end French cuisine, with the acclaimed Trois Mec. But it’s their namesake Italian spot, Jon & Vinny’s—opened

in 2015—that really elevated the duo to superstar-chef status. The seemingly simple pizzas, pastas, and meats have found fans in even the harshest of critics, including Kanye West.

Craig’s 8826 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; 310-276-1900

When Craig Susser, the beloved longtime manager of famed Italian restaurant Dan Tana’s, opened his own American joint in 2011, it became an instant L.A. institution. The clubby atmosphere is perfect for a big night out on the town, with celebrity fans like George Clooney and Ben Affleck, and hearty dishes like prime rib-eye and honey-truffle fried chicken.

Baroo 5706 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-819-4344

If there is any restaurant indicative of where the city’s food scene is headed, it’s this tiny, 19-seat kitchen—located in a strip mall. Overseen by ambitious Korean chef and co-owner Kwang Uh, who trained at Noma before moving to L.A. in 2015, this experimental eatery features an ever-rotating menu that puts twists on Asian classics such as pineapple fermented kimchi and kimchi fried rice. The result is a surprising combination of comfort and unpredictability that has won Baroo rave reviews and recognition from the James Beard Foundation. —AE

Tower Bar, an elegant dining room atop the Sunset Tower Hotel, has an Old Hollywood feel

T H I S PA G E : J O N V I S C OT T. O P P O S I T E PA G E : G & L S T U D I O S / C O N TO U R S T Y L E BY G E T T Y I M A G E S

RESTAURANTS


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THE GOSLING GUIDE TO LA LA LAND Eat and drink with the most stylish man in Hollywood Most people’s next chance to see Ryan Gosling will come in Damien Chazelle’s La La Land, opening in the U.S. on December 9. Variety’s Owen Gleiberman described the film as “the most audacious big-screen musical in a long time.” For those who would rather see Gosling in the flesh, here’s where you might look.

Tagine 132 North Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles; 310-360-7535

Gosling is an investor in this upscale Beverly Hills Moroccan restaurant, where guests dine to a jazz soundtrack by candlelight. The kitchen is run by chef Abdessamad “Ben” Benameur, whose “earliest memories were clinging to his grandmother Zhora as she prepared meals for the family in their small home in Morocco,” explains Tagine’s website. Benameur brought her recipes with him to L.A., sharing them with close friends only. When Gosling told Benameur it was the food he wanted to eat for “the rest of my life,” Tagine was born.

Cha Cha Lounge 2375 Glendale Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-660-7595

Jitlada 5233 West Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-667-9809

A Thai restaurant in a West Sunset Boulevard strip mall may not seem like the most likely place to bump into Hollywood royalty, but the Drive star is said to be a die-hard fan of the food at Jitlada. According to a waitress interviewed by Condé Nast Traveler, Gosling apparently has a weak spot for Jitlada’s crispy chicken, which is sautéed in chili paste with basil leaves, and the tom yum soup, specially prepared with “no herbs, no chili paste, and only fish.” Chef Tui’s “Dynamite Spicy Challenge” is for the bravest of palates.

Fig & Olive 8490 Melrose Pl., West Hollywood; 310-360-9100

Get an assortment of Mediterranean tasting plates with a Gos sighting on the side. He’s been spotted here numerous times over the years, and was said to have been “especially charming and nice to the waitstaff and fellow diners,” according to People magazine. Added bonus: You may spot other Tinseltown boldface names, such as Johnny Depp, Paul McCartney, and Halle Berry. —Justin Rohrlich

N AT H A N I E L G O L D B E R G / T R U N K A R C H I V E

This Silver Lake Mexicali-themed tiki bar is the Southern California outpost of a popular Seattle spot—and one of Ryan Gosling’s regular hangouts.

A life-size Willie Nelson cutout greets guests at the door, and U-shaped banquettes line the walls. “The place packs in the locals on any given night along with a few celebrities”—including Jake Gyllenhaal, Drew Barrymore, and Gosling—“for its super cheap happy hour, foosball tables, photobooth, and vending machine packed with eclectic items,” boasts the lounge.

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Gosling is an investor in Tagine, a Beverly Hills Moroccan restaurant


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Morrison, Lindsay Lohan), the Chateau has cemented its status as the leading lady of L.A.’s hotel scene since opening in 1929. It’s an intimate yet high-profile haunt on the Sunset Strip with 63 accommodations, including bungalows, suites, and penthouses, each designed to give guests the feeling of Old Hollywood in a setting that’s more relevant than ever.

The London West Hollywood 1020 North San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood; 310-854-1111

If you’re looking for the largest hotel suite in town, you’ll find it at the London West Hollywood. The property’s 11,000-square-foot penthouse (which starts at $15,000 a night) has two bedrooms and a bar, plus a sprawling roof-deck with 360-degree views, an outdoor kitchen, a fire pit, and a rooftop shower. The standard suites, while not as over-the-top, are still some of West Hollywood’s best, and the hotel’s poolside cabanas offer an idyllic urban escape.

Sunset Marquis 1200 Alta Loma Rd., West Hollywood; 310-657-1333

HOTELS Petit Ermitage

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8822 Cynthia St., West Hollywood; 310-854-1114

An eccentric alternative to the homogeneous luxury hotel scene, Petit Ermitage caters to a five-star-seeking clientele in an unconventional atmosphere. The 80-suite boutique takes cues from around the globe: Suites have a decidedly European vibe, while a “fire deck” for outdoor film screenings looks like it was plucked straight out of Morocco. Though the property positions itself as a “bohemian” enclave for “gypsies and wanderers,” don’t be fooled—it also houses an impressive collection of masterpieces by Joan Miró, Robert Rauschenberg, and Salvador Dalí.

are arguably the Line’s greatest selling point: There’s a killer cocktail program (including the ’80s-themed speakeasy Break Room 86), plus two restaurants and a café, all helmed by Kogi barbecue king Roy Choi.

Chateau Marmont 8221 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; 323-656-1010

Between the literati who’ve penned novels here (Hunter S. Thompson, F. Scott Fitzgerald) and the rock stars and starlets who’ve moved in (Jim

Staying at the Sunset Marquis is essentially a rite of passage for Hollywood musicians; the hotel has hosted rock ’n’ roll royalty like U2, Aerosmith, and the Rolling Stones. But common folk (or more specifically, common folk who appreciate the finer things) will feel right at home here, too. The verdant, 3.5-acre property has 152 Mediterranean-style villas and a perfectly executed tagline: “Rock star to your left. Famous actor to your right. You’re either at the Sunset Marquis or in a rehab center.” —Lindsay Silberman

Nobu Ryokan 22752 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu; 310-317-3000

Sushi master-turned-hotelier Nobu Matsuhisa is bringing Japanese hospitality to SoCal with his soon-to-open Nobu Ryokan. Once completed, the 18-room property—situated just steps from Nobu’s eponymous restaurant—will resemble a traditional Japanese inn, or ryokan.

The Line 3515 Wilshire Blvd., Koreatown; 213-381-7411

You’d be hard-pressed to find a hotel as effortlessly hip as the Line. Since opening in early 2014, the industrial-meets-modern boutique has managed to put Koreatown on the map as one of L.A.’s most buzzed-about neighborhoods. Rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the Hollywood Hills and the Griffith Observatory, but the food and beverage offerings From top: The boutique Petit Ermitage features masterpieces from artists like Salvador Dalí and Jean Miró; the London West Hollywood features the largest hotel suite in L.A.—starting at $15,000 a night

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GOOD HAIR DAYS Dr. Jon Gaffney, L.A.’s most sought-after hair replacement specialist, is a master of the natural look

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In a city like L.A., where you’re constantly driving with the top down, it helps to have a thick head of hair. But not every man is so lucky. Thankfully, there’s Jon Gaffney, M.D. Dr. Gaffney, who works out of the Touch of Class Med Spa & Laser Center in Glendale, is the former medical director of Bosley, the wellknown hair restoration chain—in fact, “he did Dr. Bosley’s hair transplant,” says Linda Movsesian, patient coordinator at Touch of

CITY OF PLASTIC Americans spent more than $13.5 billion on cosmetic procedures in 2015, according to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS). Here are some of L.A.’s best options. Botox: Skin-smoothing Botox treatments have been the number one nonsurgical cosmetic procedure since 2000. A. J. Khalil, M.D., a board-certified plastic surgeon, is one of the city’s top providers of Botox injections. Although women make up the majority of Botox

Class. These days, Gaffney, who was also medical director of Hair Club for Men, is doing boutique-style hair transplants for a high-end clientele. Gaffney’s services are so in demand that he was coaxed out of an attempted retirement in 2011 because, he says, “the phone started ringing again.” Good cosmetic surgery can be virtually unnoticeable, save a “rested” look others can’t quite put their finger on. Bad cosmetic surgery looks like, well, bad cosmetic surgery. This is why nothing matters more than the doctor a person chooses. “I’ve seen male patients go to a doctor with no aesthetic sense,” explains Tina Yeghiazarian, Gaffney’s marketing manager,

“and they come out with a female hairline.” That’s where Gaffney’s magic comes in. Gaffney has a formula for placing hair on the head, and even re-creates cowlicks to make the result look natural. He deploys a special “trichophytic closure,” which allows a patient’s hair to actually grow through the scar in the back of their head. Prices run from about $10,000 to upwards of $30,000, depending on what a patient requires. “Our claim to fame is our natural hairline,” Yeghiazarian points out. “Not just a straight line across the head; there are no straight lines in nature.” Touch of Class Med Spa & Laser Center, 740 East Wilson Ave., Glendale, CA; 818-502-3636.

patients, nearly 430,000 American men opted for “Bro-tox” in 2015—a 355 percent increase since 2000. A. J. Khalil, M.D., 436 North Roxbury Dr., Beverly Hills; 310-385-8601. Nose Jobs: For patients seeking rhinoplasty—or what the rest of the world knows as a “nose job”—there’s Andre Panossian, M.D. A craniofacial-trained, board-certified plastic surgeon, Panossian studied structural design and engineering before going on to medical school and has helped develop techniques used widely today in cartilage and bone engineering.

Andre Panossian, M.D., 9033 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; 310-275-5086. Pectoral Implants: Going to the gym is one way to get a bigger chest. Pec implants are another. The procedure can cost anywhere from a few thousand dollars to roughly $14,000. Ryan Stanton, M.D., is known for his pec implants, as well as for having pioneered techniques in breast enhancement, buttock augmentation, and labiaplasty. Ryan Stanton, M.D., 9090 Burton Way, Beverly Hills; 310-278-0077. —JR

L.A. ranks as one of the most plastic surgery– obsessed cities in the country MAXIM.COM

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UNDER 1 HOUR: Malibu This 32-mile stretch of coastline just north of Santa Monica and Pacific Palisades lures out-oftowners seeking sun, surf, and sand. Book a room at the Malibu Beach Inn on Carbon Beach before heading to Mastro’s Ocean Club or Nobu Malibu for sensational steaks, seafood, and sushi. Refresh your wardrobe at John Varvatos, Ted Baker, and Vince at the Malibu Country Mart, and enjoy a Cuba libre or caipirinha at Rande Gerber’s Café Habana Malibu. UNDER 2 HOURS: Pioneertown Most travelers heading east on I-10 are Palm Springs–bound, but those desiring a slower pace—and access to Joshua Tree National Park—should go north on Twentynine Palms Highway to Pioneertown. In this 1880s-style frontier town, built by Hollywood legends Roy Rogers and Gene Autry in 1946 for film and television shoots, you’ll find the recently

restored Pioneertown Motel, which offers rustic, desert-inspired accommodations. Enjoy live music and mesquite barbecue at Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace. UNDER 3 HOURS: Santa Ynez Valley The Santa Ynez Valley, located in Santa Barbara County, gained national acclaim thanks to the 2004 film Sideways. The towns of Ballard, Buellton, Los Olivos, Santa Ynez, and Solvang have a number of vineyards, tasting rooms, restaurants, and tap rooms, such as Fess Parker Winery & Vineyard, Carhartt Vineyard’s tasting room, S.Y. Kitchen, and Figueroa Mountain Brewing Company. Stay at The Landsby, located in downtown Solvang, or hit the links at Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort, a dude ranch with two 18-hole championship golf courses. UNDER 4 HOURS: Imperial County In the far southeast corner of California, bordering both Arizona and Mexico, lies Imperial County. The desert region is home to two

unique places worth visiting: the Algodones Dunes, a.k.a. Imperial Sand Dunes or Glamis Dunes, and Salvation Mountain. California’s largest mass of sand dunes, which stretches 40-plus miles, is a paradise for ATV riders, offroaders, and, in some cases, motorcyclists from October through April. Salvation Mountain— a trippy outdoor art installation consisting of murals and carvings—was created by the late artist Leonard Knight as a “tribute to God.” UNDER 5 HOURS: Pebble Beach For 13 consecutive years, Golf Digest has ranked Pebble Beach Golf Links the greatest public golf course in America. The site of five U.S. Open Championships has been played by greats such as Jack Nicklaus, Tom Watson, and Tiger Woods. Relax between rounds at the intimate Casa Palmero at Pebble Beach or the recently renovated Bernardus Lodge & Spa in nearby Carmel Valley. Cruise the 17-Mile Drive en route to the new Moto Talbott motorcycle museum. —Elizabeth Jenkins HOT NEW NEIGHBORHOOD: Highland Park Located in the San Rafael Hills in northeast L.A.—just past Eagle Rock and before Pasadena—this historic neighborhood has swiftly transformed into one of the most exciting spots in the city, with a slew of hip new restaurants, bars, and entertainment options, mostly clustered along bustling Figueroa Street and York Boulevard. Early risers flock to the takeaway window at cult favorite Belle’s Bagels, or brave the lines outside Mr. Holmes Bakehouse, the brand-new outpost of the San Francisco phenomenon that introduced the Cruffin—a hybrid of a croissant and a muffin—to the world. Fresh dinner options range from Ramen of York, an understated classicstyle ramen spot known for its 16-hour boiled broth, to Cafe Birdie, a marble-tabled restaurant serving seasonal fare like Manila clams with chorizo and braised kale. It even has its own secret speakeasy, Good Housekeeping, located in the back. Meanwhile, the team behind two-year-old Highland Park Brewery and its adjacent craft beer and boutique wine bar, The Hermosillo, has debuted The Hi Hat, a buzzy new music venue. And the owners of American gastropub The Greyhound have introduced their cocktail lounge, ETA, to much acclaim. But the biggest news is Highland Park Bowl, a Prohibition-era, eight-lane bowling alley, which, after years of moonlighting as a punk rock concert hall, has been magnificently restored to its former glory—complete with vintage Brunswick pinsetters, wood-fire pizzas, and craft cocktails such as the Dude Abides, a reinvented White Russian that serves as a nod to the original L.A. bowling icon, Jeff “The Dude” Lebowski. —AE

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From top: Santa Ynez Valley’s Fess Parker Winery & Vineyard; the legendary Pebble Beach Golf Links

T H I S PA G E , F R O M TO P : C O U R T E S Y O F F E S S PA R K E R W I N E RY & V I N E YA R D ; TO N Y R O B E R T S / G E T T Y I M A G E S . O P P O S I T E PA G E : D A N I E L L E B E R N A B E / H I G H L A N D PA R K B O W L . N E X T S P R E A D : R A N DY W I L D E R P H OTO G R A P H Y© M OTO TA L B OT T

ESCAPES


Highland Park Bowl, a Prohibition-era eight-lane bowling alley, has been beautifully restored


Carmel Valley’s Moto Talbott motorcycle museum houses about 140 vintage rides


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DEAL MAKER Superagent Ari Emanuel’s path to Hollywood power player Te x t b y J U S T I N RO H R L I C H

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aking 300 phone calls over the course of a regular workday is tough. Which is why Ari Emanuel starts his at 4 A.M. It’s through these daylong flurries of calls that Emanuel has negotiated multimillion-dollar deals for the small legion of A-list stars that comprise his client roster. His deal-making prowess extends well beyond the entertainment industry; when Emanuel hammered out the purchase of his 5,703-square-foot Marc Whipple–designed mansion in L.A.’s Mandeville Canyon, he talked the seller down from a stratospheric $22.5 million to a fire sale price of “only” $16.55 million. Over the last 20 years, Emanuel—who was the inspiration for Jeremy Piven’s cocksure character, Ari Gold, in the HBO series Entourage—has emerged as the consummate Hollywood überagent. He is the co-CEO of William Morris Endeavor-IMG, one of the biggest and richest talent agencies in the world. The 55-year-old Emanuel has been described by the New York Times as “the pre-eminent power player” in Hollywood. His agency’s clients include Mark Wahlberg (the executive producer of Entourage), Larry David, Oprah Winfrey, Charlize Theron, Jake Gyllenhaal, Matt Damon, and Christian Bale. It’s a charmed existence to be sure. But it wasn’t a straight shot to success for Emanuel. Born in Chicago on March 29, 1961, Ariel Zev Emanuel grew up in the suburb of Wilmette. Benjamin and Marsha Emanuel were demanding parents, requiring their three sons—Rahm, the middle child, is a former chief of staff to Barack Obama and the current mayor of Chicago— to post their report cards on the refrigerator. While his mother could be harsh, she provided the support and encouragement without which Emanuel doesn’t think he would have gotten through high school, much less Minnesota’s Macalester College, where he majored in economics and computer science and graduated in 1983. After graduation, Emanuel knocked around the pro racquetball circuit for a while and lived what his oldest brother, Ezekiel, described in his memoir as “an adventuresome single life.” He then moved to New York, where he got a job working for Robert Lantz, a talent agent with a client list that included Elizabeth Taylor, Bette Davis, and Chief Justice William H. Rehnquist. In 1987, Emanuel packed up and headed for Los Angeles. He landed

Emanuel, the co-CEO of William Morris Endeavor-IMG, has an estimated personal net worth of $440 million

a spot in the mail room training program at Creative Artists Agency, the venerable talent agency founded by Michael Ovitz. Emanuel began moving through the ranks of the entertainment business, but there were still struggles. During a stint at the now-defunct InterTalent Agency, Emanuel couldn’t make the rent on his $639-a-month walk-up apartment in L.A.’s Fairfax neighborhood; his landlord took him to court and had him evicted. After InterTalent, Emanuel joined ICM Partners. But in 1995, while walking back to his office from lunch, Emanuel was hit by a car. It took multiple surgeries and 18 months of physical therapy before he returned to normal, and the experience led him to take stock of his direction in life. That same year, Emanuel struck out on his own, taking a group of ICM colleagues with him to form the talent agency known as Endeavor. The new company was an immediate success, ensuring that Emanuel would never have trouble making his rent again. In 2009, Endeavor merged with the William Morris Agency, forming William Morris Endeavor. This was followed by a $2.4 billion merger with sports and model management colossus IMG in 2013, giving Emanuel an estimated personal net worth of $440 million. In the spring of 2016, Japan’s SoftBank invested $250 million in the company, giving it a valuation in the neighborhood of $5.5 billion. “We have created the greatest platform of resources for artists, period,” Patrick Whitesell, Emanuel’s co-CEO, told the Hollywood Reporter. WME was also an early investor in Uber, with holdings that experts estimate could be worth more than $1 billion, if and when the company goes public. This past July, Emanuel and WME-IMG led a team that bought the Ultimate Fighting Championship for $4 billion. He has reportedly looked into acquiring the Hollywood Reporter and Billboard magazine, as well as Dick Clark Productions. “Nobody fucks up like I do, but you’ll never succeed unless you take risks,” Emanuel wrote on LinkedIn a few years back. Something’s obviously working. Persistence has served Emanuel well, but his powers of persuasion can’t be discounted either. As Facebook COO Sheryl Sandberg once told Fortune magazine, “It is basically impossible to say no to Ari.”

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HOT

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With vibrant colors and arousing subjects, Tony Kelly’s images are designed to entertain Te x t b y K EI T H G O R D O N P h o t o g ra p h e d b y TO N Y K EL LY

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hotographer Tony Kelly’s work is all about the color. Of course, there are also those gorgeous, semiclad women who inhabit the world Kelly creates in his pictures. But it’s the color—vibrant and alive—that makes the images pop and the subjects in them jump off the page. The Dublin-born former photojournalist is known for his saturated images, but he still manages to maintain a sense of realism and rawness. He has an uncanny ability to put his subjects at ease with his high-energy, open personality. The comfort he elicits from up-and-coming models and celebrities alike unburdens his images of hesitancy or moderation. He builds trust with those he captures, and the results are stunning. Take Keith Richards’ daughter, Alexandra, whom Kelly photographed in Spain. She told the Independent, the paper for which Kelly used to work: “Tony is a very welcoming person as soon as you meet him. The second I arrived in Malaga,” she said, “we were out to dinner with the crew, talking as if we knew each other for ages.” By putting his subjects at ease, Kelly is able to entice them into a place that allows for unbridled creativity. “They sense the confidence I have in my idea and my preparation,” he explains. “I try to be genuine and honest, and they in turn trust that I know what I’m doing.” In his latest book, Taken!: Entertaining Nudes, Kelly showcases not only the sexy and colorful aspects of his work but the playfulness that he cultivates both on set and on the page. Kelly, in describing this jovial dynamic, has said, “The same energy that exists in the photograph exists on set. I am always very focused and very energetic, doing what I can to re-create the image that I already see in my head. The models feel that energy, and it helps to make them more comfortable and open in front of the camera.” Taken! began as a proposed retrospective, but Kelly wasn’t sold initially. “Half of the images represented where I am today, but half did not,” Kelly tells Maxim. “I decided to replace the latter half with new photos I shot specifically for this book. What amazed me was how well images taken six years ago and those taken six weeks ago fit together. That gives me immense pride, as I think it’s proof that I’ve developed a style that is true to myself and my vision of the world.”

Kelly’s shots convey a playfulness he develops on set


P H OTO S © 2 0 1 6 TO N Y K E L LY. A L L R I G H T S R E S E R V E D. TO N Y K E L LY P H OTO G R A P H Y.C O M

Kelly has an uncanny ability to put his subjects at ease

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Known for his saturated images, Kelly is also able to capture a sense of rawness

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KEEP IT

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Prepare for a West Coast winter in these versatile Armani Exchange threads P h o t o g ra p h e d b y M AR K P L AT T S t y l e d b y AN D R E W P O RT ER

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Opposite page: Moto jacket and sweater, ARMANI EXCHANGE. This page: Sweater, shirt, and pants, ARMANI EXCHANGE. Shoes, EMPORIO ARMANI. Vintage watch, CARTIER.


Blazer, shirt, chinos, and duffel bag, ARMANI EXCHANGE. Sunglasses, EMPORIO ARMANI. Vintage watch, CARTIER.


Peacoat, band-collar shirt, knit beanie, and scarf, ARMANI EXCHANGE. Grooming, Maria Seccia for mariaseccia.com. For more information, see page 94.

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UNRIVALED How Bugatti created the world’s greatest supercar Te x t b y N I CO L A S S T EC H ER

n a bucolic corner of France’s Alsace region rises a mansion. Opulent, gilded, and elegant, Château St. Jean is home to perhaps the most storied carmaker in the world, with a legacy dating back more than a century. The supercar maker Bugatti has long defined itself by its unprecedented achievements in engineering—from its debut racecar, the Type 10, in 1909, to the otherworldly Veyron—but no one has ever seen what’s coming next. In 2017, Bugatti will begin delivering the Chiron hypercar to its billionaire clientele. The machine will boast an unrivaled 1,500 horsepower, with a price tag that starts just south of $3 million. With the Chiron, the legendary automaker vows it will reclaim the mantle of world’s fastest car. It promises to be peerless.

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O P E N I N G S P R E A D : B L A C K- A N D -W H I T E I M A G E , G E T T Y. A L L OT H E R I M A G E S : C O U R T E S Y O F B U G AT T I

Louis Chiron with the Bugatti Type 51, 1931


With the $3 million Chiron, Bugatti seeks to reclaim the mantle of world’s fastest car


The 1,500-horsepower Chiron was designed to look predatory


“THE BUGATTI CUSTOMER HAS HIS OWN AIRPLANE AND HE’S THE OWNER OF THE FOOTBALL TEAM. THERE’S A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SET OF FINANCIAL POSSIBILITIES WITH THESE BUGATTI CUSTOMERS.”


When one discusses the Chiron’s celestial engineering achievements—from aesthetics to craftsmanship—its equals are better found in other testaments to the exceptional. You could say the Chiron is to automobiles what the Burj Khalifa tower, spiraling 2,716 feet into the Dubai sky, is to architecture: It, too, reaches dizzying new heights. Maxim visited Bugatti’s ancestral home, Château St. Jean, in Molsheim, France, as the powers behind the marque prepared to unleash one of the most anticipated machines of the 21st century. We went to learn not just about the Chiron and Bugatti’s bountiful history but about what it takes to build a legacy and change automotive history in the process.

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arlo Bugatti, born in 1856, was a successful woodworker, jeweler, and furniture maker from Milan. His youngest son, Rembrandt, shared his father’s creative streak and grew up to be a renowned wildlife sculptor. Carlo’s eldest son, Ettore, entered the burgeoning automotive world and eventually became one of the pillars of the industry. In 1909, Ettore purchased Château St. Jean. It was there, for the next 30 years, that he envisioned, designed, engineered, and manufactured the fastest cars on the planet. What spurred Ettore’s early success was his ability to create Grand Prix–level racecars, which he sold to gentleman racers. He then detuned these racecars and adapted them for the street in order to sell more vehicles. Not only did he engineer these machines—securing nearly 1,000 patents in his career—but he also illustrated their lines and shaped their curves, conceiving vehicles that have become among the world’s most coveted and valuable. One of Ettore’s greatest innovations was considering the car as a single unit. At the time, most manufacturers thought of the chassis and body as separate entities. Ettore perceived them as one, an epiphany that catapulted him to the forefront of chassis development. He crafted vehicles with incredible stability due to their light weight and low center of gravity. The results were astounding: The Type 10 claimed the top four finishes in its first race in 1909; 20 years later Bugatti won the first Monaco Grand Prix with Ettore’s legendary Type 35. From 1925 to 1931, the Type 35 claimed more than 2,000 victories, and to this day it remains the winningest automobile in auto-racing history. Ettore has been called a genius with metal, known for pushing the cutting edge of performance. He was much more than a grease-stained engineer and mechanic,

Bugatti executives demanded the Chiron be everything the Veyron was—just 25 percent more

however. He was also a dashing showman, industrialist, tech entrepreneur, and visionary. Before selling a client a Type 37—the road-going version of the Type 35 Grand Prix car—he would send the potential buyer on a wild course through the Alsatian hills, testing the suitor’s fortitude to drive a Bugatti as well as his innate ability to sense the car through the seat of his pants. He called this instinctual ability “the Bugatti seat.” Without it, he wouldn’t let a client buy one. Ettore’s son, Jean, studied under his father and surpassed him in terms of artistic talent. Jean designed aesthetic marvels such as the Type 57SC Atlantic, which has been widely heralded as the epitome of art and design in automobiles. In 2010, one sold for about $40 million: At the time, it was the single most expensive car ever sold. Ralph Lauren owns the only other existing Type 57SC Atlantic, which was valued even higher than $40 million after it won the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este in 2013. In the middle of the 20th century, Bugatti Automobiles was dealt three blows that derailed the company. In 1939, while test-driving a prototype Type 57, Jean swerved to miss a drunken cyclist and slammed into a tree. The heir apparent to the Bugatti throne died instantly. That same year saw the outbreak of World War II, which torpedoed luxury car sales worldwide. Then in 1947, Ettore died after suffering a stroke, leaving the onetime apex of car manufacturers rudderless. The Spanish automaker Hispano-Suiza bought the company in 1963, but the Bugatti name was soon abandoned. Despite an attempt by Italian entrepreneur Romano Artioli to resurrect the storied nameplate in the 1980s with the EB 110 supercar, the brand remained moribund until it was purchased by Volkswagen AG in 1998. VW’s goal with the legendary marque was as simple as it was audacious: to engineer the most dynamically advanced vehicle the world had ever seen, cost be damned. They called it the Veyron.

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hat VW was trying to achieve— to build the first 1,000-plushorsepower production car— was so beyond the era’s engineering capabilities that swelling costs threatened the company’s budget and pushed the German brain trust to its limits. Three enormous engineering challenges arose. The first was cooling: The massive W16 engine and four turbochargers ran so torrid that the engineers needed to stuff 11 radiators throughout the vehicle to keep it all from melting. (Most cars have just one.) They also had to design huge vents that would push air right through the vehicle.

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The second challenge was aerodynamic—creating enough downforce to keep the car from lifting off when it hit speeds of 250 mph, while still allowing it to remain slippery enough to reach those celestial speeds. Finally, there were the tires: With that much torque twisting into the wheels, the rubber was instantly shredded to pieces. So the engineers worked with Michelin to develop a special rubber just for the Veyron. This alone took years to develop. The tires are so specific to the vehicle that to perform a tire change, the owner must fly his Bugatti to France to have the manufacturer do it in-house. The cost? A reported $40,000. VW spent so much money developing the Veyron that it allegedly lost $6.25 million with every one of the 450 cars sold. (The company will neither confirm nor deny this figure.) The car was clearly not a profit-driven endeavor but rather an engineering showpiece. In 2009, Top Gear named the Veyron the Car of the Decade. When it was finally time to retire the Veyron, executives issued the Bugatti team a single mandate: Make the Chiron everything the Veyron was—plus 25 percent more.

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nlike other challengers with their eyes on the supercar throne, Bugatti does not sacrifice luxury or aesthetics for performance. A genuine Bugatti must offer a truly sensual experience, from the leather-wrapped cabin to swooninducing sheet metal. Bugattis are designed for a clientele with extremely high standards. “Coming from Bentley and Rolls-Royce, I thought I had a clear perception of what a super luxury car buyer looks like,” says Stefan Brungs, Ph.D., head of sales and marketing at Bugatti Automobiles. “But when I came to Bugatti [in 2010], I discovered that there is another dimension to it. The classical luxury customer flies first class and buys a lounge in his favorite football club. The Bugatti customer, on the other hand, has his own airplane and he’s the owner of the football team. There’s a completely different set of financial possibilities with these Bugatti customers.” So when VW decided to follow up with the Chiron, the call for designs wasn’t just issued to Bugatti’s in-house team—it was sent to all of Volkswagen AG’s top design studios. Twenty artists from three studios— VW’s Design Center in Santa Monica, Potsdam’s Advanced Design Studio, and the internal Bugatti team—presented concepts. The results were as spectacular as they were varied. The wheelbase and technical layout were already defined by the established powertrain architecture. There was only one major design-element request: a raised C-shaped panel, aft of the doors, required to suck in the air necessary to cool the 8.0-liter, quad-turbocharged W-16 powerplants (the Chiron inhales more than 60,000 liters of air per minute). Dubbed “the Bugatti line,” this element is arguably the Chiron’s most salient design flourish. In this case, form followed performance, as the design met aerodynamic needs. Its origins can be found in the Galibier concept car—Bugatti’s only 21st-century attempt at a four-door sedan. And

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while the main guiding DNA is driven by technical function, the C also acts as an homage to the Chiron name and evokes the curvature of the E in Ettore’s signature. “We used this line on some proposals to see if it would work on a midengine car, and to our surprise it really worked,” explains Achim Anscheidt, Bugatti’s director of design. “We started to realize it could be a deciding element in the side view of this car; it would give a unique gesture that speaks so much to our brand.” One concept design for the Chiron—the brainchild of a little-known Russian-Armenian designer named Sasha Selipanov—stood apart from the rest. Trained at Pasadena’s Art Center College of Design, Selipanov is more likely to be seen sporting a Metallica T-shirt than the crisp button-downs of his peers. His vision featured aggressive, muscular curves and a gorgeous manifestation of the Bugatti line. It also included a truncated rear end, appearing almost as if sliced off by a blade. Running across its width was a 1.6-meter crimson slash made of 82 LED lights. The metal frame is milled from a single piece of aluminum and is the longest such taillight found on any automobile in the world. Despite its incredible cost, this element was so beloved that it made it to production of the Chiron almost exactly as Selipanov had envisioned it. Driven by the Chiron’s extreme cooling needs, Selipanov’s design also featured a vacuum cleaner–like front fascia that was basically all air intake. Selipanov asked himself, What is the most brutal, straightforward way to increase air? That was the salient question that led to this front. While everyone was immediately thrilled with the model’s side and rear views, the front end was met with resistance. “The technical requirements were so severe and were put on our table so forcefully that we looked into every possibility to tailor the architecture of the car to that 25 percent performance increase,” Anscheidt explains. “But when we presented it to our board and top management, it was denied to go in that direction. It was deemed too severe.” Anscheidt was determined to make the Chiron appear more feral than the Veyron, so Selipanov and company went back to work on the fascia. Streaming out like glaring eyes from the signature horseshoe grille, the focused beams of the Chiron “8-Eye Face” emanate from the thinnest LED headlights in the automotive world. Filled out with massive rear haunches, obese Michelin rubber, taut curves, and a squat stance, the result gives the Chiron a predatory mien.

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eanwhile, Bugatti’s head of interior design, Etienne Salomé, went to work on the cabin. While many hypercars dazzle with an F22-like array of knobs, buttons, switches, and dials, Salomé preferred a minimalist interior. He focused on the details: hand-stitched buttery leather wrapping every surface; an exposed glossy carbon-fiber dashboard; the four knurled


The Chiron’s minimalist interior features hand-stitched leather wrapping every surface


aluminum knobs running up the center stack, each bearing its own small, iPhone-like OLED screen; a meaty steering wheel milled from a single hunk of aluminum; and the Accuton sound system, which contains onecarat diamonds in each of the four tweeters. The bespoke stereo can be fine-tuned to account for the specific acoustic qualities of each of the 31 leather and eight microsuede options. One of the simplest touches is also the most charming: an analog speedometer in place of the expected digital display, which reaches 500 kph and allows for any awestruck passerby to peek in the window and see the Chiron’s absurd top speed, regardless of whether the car is running or not.

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hile the interior is unequaled, what elevates the Chiron to a $3 million unicorn is the engineering. The tub and body are made entirely of carbon fiber. There’s so much carbon, in fact, that if you strung the fibers together they would reach to the moon and back four times, with enough thread left over for one last trip to the moon. The result is the stiffest production car ever built, boasting the same rigidity found in a LeMans LMP1 prototype racecar. What makes that tub move is the most advanced internal combustion engine the world has ever seen: Bugatti’s famed 8.0-liter W-16. While it’s an evolution of the Veyron’s engine, 95 percent of the Chiron’s massive powerplant is new. That includes the four turbochargers, 69 percent bigger than those found in its predecessor. As with the Veyron, 11 radiators are required to keep the 16 cylinders from melting as the hypercar turns the 1,500-horsepower engines on nuclear mode, catapulting the Chiron from zero to 124 mph in less than 6.5 seconds. To keep the Chiron grounded even as it hits speeds that would lift an A380 superjumbo into the air, Bugatti incorporated active aero elements like front splinters, a rear diffuser, and the rear wing. That rear wing can move into four positions: flush with the body at low speeds (and rest), raised slightly for top-speed runs (which require stability with low drag), full extension at high speeds (when handling is at a premium), and tilted forward 90 degrees as an air brake for maximum stopping force. The end result is an opulent four-wheeled carbon-fiber sculpture that can reach 62 mph in just under 2.5 seconds, en route to 236 mph. If you turn the “top speed” key, located between the driver’s seat and the door sill, that ceiling swells to a nearly incomprehensible 261 mph—and that’s limited, to make the car street-legal. Company engineers don’t actually know how fast the Chiron can go; they plan on finding out the next time they go for the world speed record. “We wanted to position ourselves at the very top of the automotive world with the Veyron, and we achieved that,” says Brungs. “The challenge then was to establish ourselves there and make clear this wasn’t a one-hit wonder: This is where the Bugatti brand belongs. And now, with the Chiron, we position ourselves at the pinnacle as the fastest, highestperforming, most luxurious, and most exclusive motorcar in the world.”

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Far left: sketches for the Chiron, which can hit top speeds of 261 mph


WHILE IT’S AN EVOLUTION OF THE VEYRON’S ENGINE, 95 PERCENT OF THE CHIRON’S MASSIVE POWERPLANT IS NEW.


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While not officially a Bugatti by badge, the Type 2 was Ettore Bugatti’s first functioning vehicle—built when he was only 19 years old. It served as the basis for the de Dietrich–Bugatti Type 2, a collaboration with the brand de Dietrich.

The first car to bear the Bugatti name, the Type 10 was powered by a four-cylinder in-line engine.

19 20 In 1920, Bugatti claimed the Grand Prix de la Sarthe in Le Mans with a Type 13; then in 1921, it finished in the top four places at the Brescia Gran Premio delle Vetturette. Establishing Bugatti’s dominance throughout the decade, the Type 13 became known as the Brescia.

The grandest Bugatti ever built was the Royale, and only six were produced. These epic cars were imagined for royalty, but their timing was awful: As the Depression ravaged Europe, even the ultrarich avoided buying toys this ostentatious. To move its 3.5 tons of steel (and 20-foot body), Bugatti outfitted the Royale with one of the largest engines ever to power a 12.7-liter straight eight lump that generated 300 hp.

The Tank de Tours, as it was known, may be considered Bugatti’s ugly duckling, but it was one of the first cars to introduce aerodynamics into motorsports, pairing a streamlined shape with a 2.0-liter straight eight engine to finish third in the 1923 French Grand Prix.

Arguably the most important car in Bugatti’s storied history, the Type 35 won the 1926 Grand Prix World Championship and set 47 speed records. It captured the checkered flag at the legendary Targa Florio for five consecutive years (1925–1929). Variations include the 35C, which added a supercharger.

When the Royales didn’t sell, Ettore had the brilliant idea to employ those massive engines on trains, instead of laying off his workforce. The fastest and most luxurious of them, dubbed the Presidential, featured four engines generating 800 hp. Even with 48 seats, it broke the world speed record by running 119 mph for 3.7 miles.

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After the Great Depression sank Bugatti sales, the Type 57 single-handedly resurrected the brand. Also designed by Jean, the Type 57 was built from 1934 to 1940 and was powered by a 135-hp, 3.3-liter engine plucked from the Type 59 racecar.

The Type 35’s replacements, like the Type 43 and 51, never equaled the success of their predecessor—mostly because Ettore couldn’t match the budgets of his state-sponsored German and Italian rivals. But the Jean Bugatti–designed roadster sibling, the Type 55 Super Sport, will be remembered as one of the finest coupes of the era.

1936 In addition to being obsessed with horses, Ettore also indulged in all things nautical. So naturally he also designed boats, and they too shattered expectations. His Niniette IV—powered by a 4.7-liter supercharged eightcylinder Bugatti engine—broke the water-speed record in 1937 when Maurice Vasseur recorded a clip of 83 mph on the River Seine.

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In 1938, Ettore, now a French citizen, was determined that France would catch up to its German rivals in air superiority, as a matter of national pride. It didn’t help that the German government participated in funding the engines that Mercedes and Auto Union were using to beat him on the racetrack. So he designed the ultra-sleek, dual-engine Model 100P plane to capture the world air-speed record. Sadly, the onset of WWII and the Nazi invasion of France ended its development.

You could include the Type 57SC Atalante Coupe in a list of Bugatti’s best—after all, it sold for $7.9 million at Pebble Beach. But the Atalante doesn’t touch the majesty of the Atlantic, which is considered one of the finest automobiles the world has ever seen. When one (of two) sold at auction for $40 million in 2010, it broke every auction record at the time. In 1987, Bugatti was resurrected briefly when an Italian entrepreneur bought the brand and created the EB 110. Named to celebrate what would have been Ettore’s 110th birthday, the EB 110 was the first car ever with a carbon-fiber chassis, besting the McLaren F1 by one year. Featuring a 12-cylinder engine with four turbochargers and all-wheel drive, the EB 110 boasted a bristling top speed of 218 mph.

The first 1,000-plus-horsepower production car in the world, the Veyron was the only Bugatti resuscitation effort that actually worked. How monumental a vehicle was it? Top Gear named it the Car of the Decade. Without the Veyron, there would be no Chiron.


A Conversation with Wolfgang Dürheimer, President of Bugatti Automobiles There must be tremedous pressure in creating a Bugatti, from the historical pedigree to surpassing the groundbreaking technology of the Veyron. What moved you to accept this challenge? For me as an engineer and a leader, it was an opportunity I simply could not decline. Working for this brand is a great honor and a great responsibility at the same time. This brand has such a long-standing tradition and has managed to establish itself with the Veyron as the absolute pinnacle of the automotive world when it comes to performance, speed, exclusivity, and luxury. Continuing this success story with the new Chiron was a project I wanted to be part of. And I am pleased to see that we have succeeded. What did you want to achieve with the Chiron? It is part of human nature to cross boundaries and set new records—to run 100 meters faster than ever before, to fly even farther into space, and to enter new realms. This striving is also our driving force at Bugatti. We wanted to push the boundaries in the automotive world even further to

demonstrate how fast you can go in a street-legal car. The Chiron is the result of our efforts to make the best even better. A Bugatti reflects a very specific sensibility of taste. What is the tribe of Bugatti owners like? What makes them different? Our customers form a very exclusive group of automobile collectors who are searching for the very best. With the Veyron, they own the best production super sports car of the past 10 years. This is why their expectations for our next step, the Chiron, were so high. Customers’ reactions show that Bugatti has hit the mark. We have already sold more than 40 percent of the total production run of 500 cars, which is great. A Bugatti is the crown of their car collection. Technology is changing the car industry ever more rapidly. How will a Bugatti be different 20 years from now? Regardless of which technology will be dominating the car industry in 20 years, a Bugatti will always be an iconic car that represents outstanding performance and power combined with timeless, beautiful design and ultra luxury. How would you like your tenure as president of Bugatti to be remembered? We proved that we were able to exceed what we had achieved with the Veyron—namely, building the world’s next most powerful, fastest, most exclusive, and luxurious production super sports car and underpinning Bugatti’s unique position in the car world. I am grateful and proud to be part of a team of outstanding and highly motivated personalities fighting to make their dream come true with extreme passion and dedication.

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SURFACING

How Officine Panerai, former supplier to the Royal Italian Navy, conquered the watch world

n the 19 short years since Officine Panerai first became available to the public, the brand has grown into an astonishing success, renowned for a combination of distinctive Italian design and exacting Swiss craftsmanship. But the Panerai story goes back much further, stretching from the secret ministries of the Royal Italian Navy in the 19th century to the chicest boutique in the Miami Design District today. During that time Panerai watches have evolved from indispensable tools for underwater commandos to highly coveted luxury accessories. What elevates Panerai timepieces and keeps them from becoming mere pieces of jewelry is the brand’s commitment to its maritime heritage and its rigid adherence to the manufacturing

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standards that made it essential equipment for Italy’s elite frogmen. A Panerai watch is “not simply an instrument for measuring time, but the witness of history, the hero of a story which over time has become a legend,” says Franco Cologni, Ph.D., chairman of the cultural council of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, a Genevabased organization that promotes fine watchmaking internationally. Giovanni Panerai founded his Florence workshop in 1860 to manufacture instruments for the newly minted Royal Italian Navy, forging a partnership that continued through both world wars, ending in 1945. He supplied items ranging from sextants and ship’s chronometers to a revolutionary luminous mechanical calculator used for launching torpedoes during

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filming the action movie Daylight in Rome. He commissioned a limited edition version and gifted one to Arnold Schwarzenegger; the timepiece soon caught the attention of watch enthusiasts worldwide. In 1997 the luxury conglomerate Richemont, then called the Vendôme Luxury Group, acquired the newly popular brand. Richemont relaunched the Luminor for the civilian market but without changing its then unheard-of 47mm size or rugged construction. Over the past 19 years, the brand has grown into what billionaire Richemont founder Johann Rupert has called the company’s “single most profitable venture.” Panerai now boasts 69 boutiques worldwide, including a stunning North American flagship designed by architect Patricia Urquiola that opened last year in the Miami Design District. In 2016 Panerai unveiled a 107,600-square-foot manufacturing facility in Neuchâtel, Switzerland; the company can now develop and produce its movements in-house, appeasing watch snobs who scoff at the outsourced variety.

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World War I. In the 1930s the company began producing compasses and depth gauges designed for the Royal Italian Navy’s devastatingly effective underwater commandos, the Decima Flottiglia MAS, to wear during its dangerous missions. In 1936, Panerai also provided the frogman commandos of the First Submarine Group Command of the Italian Navy with a prototype of an oversize, luminous underwater diving watch—the first of its kind. This evolved into the Radiomir, the company’s first wristwatch, whose design has scarcely changed since. That was followed in 1950 by the Luminor, which introduced Panerai’s famed crown-protecting bridge. The basic architecture of what has become one of the world’s most iconic timepieces hardly changed until earlier this year, when a lighter, slimmer version, known as the Luminor Due, was introduced. Panerai might have continued as an obscure military footnote had Sylvester Stallone not happened across one of its watches in 1995 while

Available to the public for just 19 years, Panerai now operates 69 boutiques worldwide

Panerai: Foreword by Angelo Bonati, with contribution by Paolo Galluzzi, Giampiero Negretti, Simon de Burton, and Philippe Daverio. Available at Rizzolibookstore.com, $80.


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At the center of Panerai’s success is its dapper CEO, Angelo Bonati, a keen sportsman who has helmed the company since 2000. In 2005, the passionate yachtsman launched the brand’s sponsorship of classic yacht regattas worldwide, known as the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge. The following year Bonati acquired Eilean, a classic 1936 sailing yacht with Burma teak planking that was in need of total restoration. Beauti-

Panerai makes some of the most coveted watches in the world, and counts Brad Pitt and Jon Hamm among its enthusiasts

fully renewed and equipped with bespoke Panerai instrumentation, the yacht now serves as the regatta series’ flagship. These days Panerai is devoting its resources to design, and beyond the Radiomir and Luminor—which are available in myriad variations, including ceramic and chronograph models—the brand has introduced some breathtaking examples of haute horlogerie, including a Tourbillon GMT Ceramica pocket watch. “We have respected the beautiful, distinctive design of our watches not only in terms of aesthetics but also, more importantly, identity,” Bonati says. “This combination of design and identity will continue to be Panerai’s focus.” As part of this initiative, in 2015 Panerai began sponsoring the Panerai Design Miami/Visionary Award—an elite honor that has gone to world-class architects and designers including Peter Marino and Yves Béhar. Panerai enthusiasts—known as Paneristi—are fiercely loyal to the brand and have developed into a tight-knit online community that meticulously tracks every Panerai watch ever made and debates the merits of various dials, movements, and complexities. Superstar chef Daniel Boulud, Brad Pitt, Pierce Brosnan, Jason Statham, Orlando Bloom, Usher, and Jon Hamm have all been spotted with Panerais on their wrists. And the brand is likely to gain even more followers, famous or not, thanks to Bonati’s commitment to provide them with “the finest in terms of technical contents, quality, and performance.” “Our Laboratorio di Idee—the name of our research and development department—is an incredibly creative workshop focused on innovation and the continuous evolution of our product offering,” Bonati says. “Panerai has historically concentrated on the refinement of our cases and dials, but the future provides us with the opportunity to work with new and innovative materials exemplified by our Luminor 1950 timepieces in Carbotech, a composite material never before used in the world of watchmaking.” Sometimes it takes a 150-year-old brand to forge the way into the future.

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Mark Cuban, who is part owner of Magnolia Pictures, has his sights set on Hollywood


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MAVERICK

BILLIONAIRE Mark Cuban—Shark Tank star, NBA franchise owner, social media maestro—is having a lot of fun, and he’s taking the rest of us along for the ride Te x t b y B I L L S AP O R I TO P h o t o g ra p h b y B R I AN D O B EN

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t was all working according to plan for Mark Cuban. He had sold his first business, MicroSolutions, in 1990, retiring handsomely rich at age 29. He bought a lifetime, fly-anywhere-with-a-friend forever pass from American Airlines and had envisioned an immediate future of reasonable if dedicated debauchery. The plane-and-party proposition gained some altitude, but as sometimes happens, a woman kept diverting him back to his adopted hometown of Dallas. “I was having a blast. But there is always that girl who gets in the way,” Cuban told me via email, a medium in which he is famously responsive. Pity that romance didn’t work out, but then again, spending more time in Big D to be near “that girl” would lead to him cofounding, with Todd Wagner, Audionet in 1995, just as something called the Internet was catching on. Cuban took Audionet—later renamed Broadcast.com—public in 1998, and a year later sold the company to Yahoo at the peak of the dot-com frenzy for about $5.6 billion. He netted some $1.3 billion. “We are still friends,” he says of that lost love. “But don’t tell her about this!” Today, the 58-year-old Cuban is having more fun—and continues to make more money—than the rest of us, but at least he’s happy to let us go along for the ride with him. He’s the people’s billionaire: the fanboy owner of the Dallas Mavericks who turned a broken franchise into an NBA champion; a Shark Tank megastar with a portfolio of investments in companies whose products he sells as part of his own Amazon collection. His sights are increasingly set on Hollywood. A onetime aspiring actor, one of the few avocations he hasn’t yet mastered, Cuban instead created a media portfolio that includes Magnolia Pictures (again with Wagner) and bought the Landmark Theatre chain, which specializes in restoring historic movie houses. Magnolia has produced movies (Little Men) and documentaries (Zero Days) for theatrical release or distribution on his HDNet Movies. His AXS TV is a musicfocused channel that features concerts by rock legends such as the Who. Vertical integration is a beautiful thing, especially when you own it.

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He learned how to run a business from the ground up. MicroSolutions was profitable every month of its existence, he has noted. The company had to be, since Cuban, then sharing a three-bedroom Dallas apartment with five other poor slobs, had no other source of income. Likewise, in his Shark Tank role, Cuban told me he sees a common bond between himself and the successful entrepreneurs he’s funded: “the continuous effort to learn about your business, a vision to ever improve, and a focus on sales.” Following the sale of Broadcast.com, the now immensely rich Cuban did not confuse a bull market with brains: He began selling the Yahoo stock he got in the buyout as soon as he could, a diversification plan that would ultimately double his net worth to more than $3 billion. Then it became, in Cuban’s words, “WTF time.” Why not buy a jet? He did, purchasing a Gulfstream V for $40 million. He bought it over the Internet, the largest individual Web purchase ever. (He gave his father the airline pass.) Cuban also bought a 24,000-square-foot mansion he didn’t need. WTF, indeed. When he bought the moribund Mavs in 2000, it wasn’t some rich Texas kid getting a ball team to play with. Cuban brought the same rational, details-oriented approach to the Mavs that he did to MicroSolutions and Broadcast.com. He upgraded everything, from the locker room towels to the basketball analytics to the building itself—this season, for instance, the Mavs claim the NBA’s most advanced mobile phone app. Back then, the personnel needed the most work. “The week I bought the Mavs, I was asked by Nellie”—Don Nelson, then the Mavs coach—“if I wanted to bag the season in order to get the best draft pick that we could,” he wrote on his blog. “My response was ‘No. At some point this franchise has to learn how to win and develop a culture of winning.’ ” Cuban built that culture around the Mavs’ lanky German giant, Dirk Nowitzki, a superstar power forward with a feathery touch and a relentless work ethic. By 2010, Cuban had surrounded Nowitzki with an operations manager in guard Jason Kidd and NBA grown-ups such as Tyson Chandler and Jason Terry to add some gravitas. He hired the highly respected Rick Carlisle to coach the team. The culture Cuban established paid off in the 2010–2011 season, when the Mavs defeated the LeBron James–led Miami Heat to claim the NBA title. Although he got crazy-rich in a technology boom, Cuban has became wary, and critical, of the current version. Start-ups promising to become the next Uber, WhatsApp, or Twitter are kept under private ownership and accorded “unicorn” valuations of $1 billion or more rather than going public in IPOs. The number of public companies has declined from 7,459 at its peak in 1997 to less than 3,700 this year, a trend he thinks is harmful. “Going public is far better for the economy and our country,” Cuban says. “The trend toward acquisitions rather than IPOs has significantly reduced competition. Instagram, Oculus, WhatsApp—they might have been competing with Facebook had they gone public, and Facebook would look much different today. How much would Instagram be worth today if it went public?” Going public, he also notes, spreads the money around faster to employees, early investors, and founders, and it has a compounding effect: They can reinvest. Cuban is still reinvesting. Today, he says, “I look for companies that automate automation—deep learning, machine learning, computer vision, and the like.” The Mavs need some attention, too, and you can’t automate a shooting guard. After winning it all in 2011, they have had three successive first-round exits from the playoffs, while the Golden State Warriors have added megastar Kevin Durant to their already stunning lineup led by Stephen Curry. Cuban is unfazed. The Mavs’ culture will adapt, using Cuban’s analytical bent combined with his focus on winning and, if necessary, his checkbook: “We try to be countertrend. We use zone when teams don’t practice against zone. This year, teams will practice switching everything. We will look for ways to counter that to gain an advantage.” And at every home game, Mark Cuban will be sitting behind the bench, screaming and yelling, enjoying himself, and behaving like some lunatic fan. Or like someone who owns the joint.

Cuban built an NBA champion out of the once-lowly Dallas Mavericks

G L E N N JA M E S / N BA E V I A G E T T Y I M AG E S

Despite this busy mogul’s schedule, Cuban still has time to be a social media fire hose with nearly 5.7 million Twitter followers. A hitto-all-fields provocateur, to the NBA he’s a veritable ATM, having paid more than $1 million in fines for repeatedly mouthing off about officials, among other league shortcomings. He has dissed the NFL as greedy (“Hogs get slaughtered,” he said, referring to the league’s ever-expanding television schedule). He stood up loudly to the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission over an insider trading allegation and slamdunked the agency in court (“Torched their ass!”). He dove into a gloriously entertaining flame war with one Donald Trump. He even played the president in Sharknado 3—not much of a stretch considering that he used to take acting lessons. Self-reliance was a trait he developed as a teenager growing up in suburban Pittsburgh. His grandparents were immigrants from Eastern Europe. While he was growing up, Cuban’s father, a car upholsterer by profession, made one thing clear: Young Cuban would have to work for what he wanted, including college tuition. And so Mark Cuban worked. He sold whatever he thought would sell: garbage bags, disco lessons, collectible stamps. As a business student and rugby player at Indiana University, he would eventually buy and run a local bar—until it was shut down by authorities. (A sure sign you’re running a popular joint.) After college, Cuban started his first tech business, MicroSolutions, a business software provider, after getting fired from his first real job, at a Dallas software retailer. His offense? Stopping at a customer’s business to pick up a check, a down payment for an order he’d sold, rather than opening the retail shop on time. Sale first, he reasoned—get the money. Get lost, said his boss. He did, taking the order with him. Cuban got funding from another customer to fill the first order. MicroSolutions was up and running. Cuban had no technology background, but he taught himself everything he needed to know about business software so that he’d understand what the customers needed. “Always ask how you would design a solution if no current solution existed” is one of his rules for business. Here’s another one: “Be nice.” What is the Internet? That was the headline of an early promotional release Cuban wrote for Audionet in 1995. The question seems hilarious and quaint, sort of like asking, “What is a dial tone?” But in the mid-’90s, the Net was still a mystery to much of the dial-up American mainstream. Audionet was in the business of using RealNetworks’ software for taking radio programs from whatever stations it could sign up and making them available on this newfangled Web thingy. “People talk to each other and communicate using words. Computers talk to each other using text, pictures, audio, and in some cases, video. That is what makes the Internet so special,” Cuban wrote. What made Cuban so special was recognizing the Internet was a perfect home for programming, first by posting previously recorded shows and then going live, especially with sports. In other words, Audionet became an early adapter of streaming. He hadn’t counted on the dot-com boom. It simply found him, a bit like that girl in Dallas. “When we started Audionet and Broadcast .com, the whole angle was, the Internet is just happening, multimedia is going to happen, and somebody’s got to dominate it,” he recalled at an Inc. magazine conference. “We didn’t think, We’re going to take this public. We thought, All right, we’re going to have to make money.” The stock market’s appetite for anything Internet obviated that need. “Did I plan or did we know that the stock market would just explode? No! The scale was luck,” he confesses. (And as luck would have it, this year Yahoo, battered by Google, Facebook, and others, was sold for $4.8 billion, $900 million or so less than it paid for Broadcast.com.) You would be mistaken to characterize Cuban as another Bill Gates or Mark Zuckerberg. He’s not a dot-com lottery winner or a one-idea geek with immaculate timing. Instead, Cuban is much more the classic entrepreneur, dedicated to the idea of uncovering customer needs before others and meeting them.


CREDITS COVER: Mondrian cotton-blend lace pants, NOOKIE ($130); nookie.com .au. LIVE LARGE P.16: Gisele Bündchen book, TASCHEN ($1,200); taschen.com. Soft alligator case, BOTTEGA VENETA ($28,500, set); bottegaveneta.com. X100T digital camera, FUJIFILM ($1,300); fujifilmusa .com. Blue Label whisky, JOHNNIE WALKER ($229); johnniewalker .com. L’Homme Prada eau de parfum, PRADA ($98); nordstrom.com. Peak boots, MONCLER ($670); moncler.com. Voyager GMT Watch, LOUIS VUITTON (price upon request); us.louisvuitton.com. MW60 headphones, MASTER & DYNAMIC ($549); masterdynamic.com. KeyMission 360 camera, NIKON ($499); nikonusa.com. Cedre 11 candle, LE LABO ($69); lelabofragrances.com. A1 portable speaker, BEOPLAY ($249); beoplay.com. Plaid hip flask, BARBOUR ($59); barbour.com. Wing corkscrew, RBT ($50); madebyrbt.com. London Square decanter with stopper, WATERFORD ($350); waterford.com. EASY RIDER P.18: Westport blouson jacket in black lightweight luxe shearling, BELSTAFF($3,295); mrporter.com. H1 Titanium Black DLC, HYT WATCHES ($45,000); hytwatches.com. Alder boots, JOHN LOBB ($1,815); mrporter.com. Chopin cashmere-lined full-grain leather gloves, WANT LES ESSENTIELS ($395); wantlesessentiels.com. PHD tonal black bag, BUSCEMI ($2,750); buscemi.com. C3 pro motorcycle helmet, SCHUBERTH ($769); schuberth.com. Eagle-head crocodile belt, STEFANO RICCI ($2,695); neimanmarcus.com. NL16 gray glasses, NORTHERN LIGHTS OPTIC ($185); northernlightsoptic.com. Fleur-de-lis and skull rings, THOMAS SABO ($198/$169); thomassabo.com. RAZOR SHARP P.20: Brow Gelcomb, TOM FORD ($45); tomford.com. Colonia Essenza, ACQUA DI PARMA ($112); shop.nordstrom.com. Bayolea Facial Scrub, PENHALIGON’S ($40); penhaligons.com. No. 02 Pomade, LAVETT & CHIN ($38); lavettandchin.com. Clearly Corrective ClarityActivating Toner, KIEHL’S ($42); kiehls.com. Eye cream, DR. BARBARA STURM ($140); mrporter.com. Shaving Cream Line M, SUSANNE KAUFMANN (price upon request); susannekaufmann.com. Construction Paste, MITCH BY PAUL MITCHELL ($17); paulmitchell.com. Skin rejuvenating serum, LAB SERIES ($40); labseries.com. Series 9 Electric Shaver, BRAUN ($299); us.braun.com. The Winston Razor, HARRY’S ($20); harrys.com. Engraved Silvertip Shaving Brush, THE ART OF SHAVING ($250); theartofshaving.com. M3 Matte Styling Product, PATRICKS ($60); patricks.com.au. Emulsion Intense Hydrator, COSMEDIX ($78); cosmedix .com. Hair Wax, SACHAJUAN ($31); sachajuan.com. Exfoliating Tonic, CLINIQUE FOR MEN ($14.50); clinique.com. Max LS Power V Lifting Serum, LAB SERIES ($70); labseries.com. Beard & Face Oil, MARTIAL VIVOT ($48); martialvivot.com. OVM Anti-Aging Cream, PERRICONE MD ($170); perriconemd.com. Issa Electric Toothbrush, FOREO ($199); foreo .com. Hydro Salve Lip Balm, BAXTER OF CALIFORNIA ($10); baxter ofcalifornia.com. BAR ESSENTIALS P.22 Cocktail shaker, COCKTAIL KINGDOM ($120); cocktailkingdom.com. Louxor tumblers, BACCARAT ($450); us.baccarat.com. Round coasters with wood base, MATCH ($345); match1995.com. Scotch whisky, LAGAVULIN ($90); malts.com. Acorn champagne sabre, GEORG JENSEN ($3,000); georgjensen.com.

Wine set, CEDES MILANO ($830); mrporter.com. Rum, RON ZACAPA ($99); zacaparum.com. Pewter cartridge flask, SIR JACK’S ($169); sirjacks .com. GLENN O’BRIEN’S LIBRARY P.24: Style & the Man, IT BOOKS ($16); amazon.com. Dressing the Man, HARPERCOLLINS ($50); harpercollins.com. Clothes and the Man, VILLARD BOOKS (price varies); amazon.com. Straight From the Fridge, Dad: A Dictionary of Hipster Slang, BROADWAY BOOKS ($15); penguinrandomhouse.com. Juba to Jive: Dictionary of Afro-American Slang, PUFFIN (price varies); amazon.com. The Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue, HESPERUS CLASSICS ($18); amazon.com. The Slang Dictionary, CHATTO & WINDUS ($30); abebooks.com. The Joys of Yiddish, McGRAW-HILL (price varies); amazon.com. The Gentleman’s Companion, ECHO POINT BOOKS & MEDIA ($30); echopointbooks.com. Our Deportment, KESSINGER PUBLISHING ($30); amazon.com. Emily Post’s Etiquette, WILLIAM MORROW ($40); harpercollins.com. Brewer’s Dictionary of Phrase and Fable, ERGODEBOOKS ($50); abebooks.com. The Unexpurgated Code: A Complete Manual of Survival and Manners, DELACORTE PRESS (price varies); amazon.com. Duke of Bedford’s Book of Snobs, PETER OWEN (price varies); amazon.com. DUNE RAIDER P.26: Maverick X3 Turbo R side-by-side vehicle, CAN-AM ($22,999); can-am.brp.com/ off-road. P.27: Maitland parka, CANADA GOOSE ($800); canadagoose .com. 12 SWA Anniversary Edition Set, ALPA ($22,421); alpa.ch. Cavalier No. 96 green camo twill duffel bag, GHURKA ($1,295); ghurka.com. Trail-Breaker off-road motorcycle, ROKON ($7,350); rokon.com. IN HER ELEMENT P.34: Lurex dress with puffed sleeves and pumps with floral embellishment, DOLCE & GABBANA ($3,845); available at select DG boutiques, dolcegabbana .it. P.35: H.H. Bey nylon hat, ERIC JAVITS ($565); ericjavits.com. P.36 Lace underwire bra and high-waist lace corset brief, NORMA KAMALI ($125); normakamali.com. P.37: Cat-eye acetate sunglasses, SELIMA FOR PAMELA LOVE ($375); selimaoptique.com. Patent leather mules, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ($650); giuseppezanottidesign.com. P.38 Sheer polkadot dress, NEVER FULLY DRESSED ($54); neverfullydressed .co.uk. Sterling silver and 18K gold-plated necklace with Swarovski crystals, BONHEUR JEWELRY ($998); bonheurjewelry.com. P42: Sheer chiffon cape, BALMAIN AT CLOAK (price upon request); cloakwardrobe.com. P.43 Sheer tulle-net puff jacket, LANVIN AT CLOAK (price available upon request); cloakwardrobe.com. ARMANI EXCHANGE P.68: Asymmetrical moto jacket in Moonstruck ($250) and diamond-weave turtleneck sweater ($200), ARMANI EXCHANGE; armaniexchange.com. P.69 Speckled shawl-collar cardigan ($230), microcheck pocket shirt ($90), and gray ponte suiting pant ($120), ARMANI EXCHANGE; armaniexchange.com. Shoes, EMPORIO ARMANI ($545); armani.com. P.70: Refined stretch-cotton blazer ($200), slim, textured no-iron shirt ($70), slim-fit chino pant ($80), and nylon duffel bag ($170), ARMANI EXCHANGE; armaniexchange.com. Sunglasses, EMPORIO ARMANI ($200); armani.com. P.71: Short double-breasted wool peacoat ($290), band-collar shirt ($100), rib knit logo beanie ($50), and tonal plaid scarf ($200), ARMANI EXCHANGE; armaniexchange.com. Average No. Copies of Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months

No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date

TOTAL NUMBER OF COPIES: PAID CIRCULATION:

849,447

396,934

Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions: Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions: Paid Distribution Outside the Mail: Paid Distribution by Other Classes Mailed Through the USPS:

544,957 0 51,391

197,952 0 50,000

0 596,348

0 247,952

2,127 0 0

2,464 0 0

40,280 42,407 638,755 210,692 849,447 93.4%

2,468 4,932 252,884 144,050 396,934 98.0%

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