Letter From the Editors In a world plagued by recessions, environmental crises and the death of Michael Jackson, fashion and style have never been more necessary. Our second issue provides distraction in the form of color, mirth and sensuality. There is not only one way to express sensuality; it can be expressed in the form of tension between partners like in “Une Fête Noire,” or restraint in “The Undergraduates.” Sensuality can also be the look in someone’s eyes or the passion and color achieved in a brush stroke; “Dipped” is our experiment with the synthesis of art and makeup. “Plus One” takes a look at the dynamic between two couples when the camera is off, playing off the familiarity and comfort we find in one another. This issue is a celebration of personal style and individuality. We profiled a student’s T-shirt company, the experiences of several fashion interns, and featured the unique looks of students on campus in “My Favorite Things.” We are constantly inspired by the daily runway show we see throughout our campuses, and hope that we provide inspiration as well. Feathers & Fur is and always will be committed to bringing the world of fashion to our small bi-college community.
With love, Rachel Oliner Juliana Reyes Simran Singh Elizabeth Svokos Darren White
F&F Rachel Oliner
DIRECTOR OF STYLE
DIRECTOR OF LAYOUT & PRODUCTION
DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY
STAFF & CONTRIBUTORS Ralph Alexis, Christina Ardila, Mandy Ball Chris Flores, Sam Kaplan, Eurie Kim, Sharon Li, Peter Loewi, Ingrid Nieters, Rachel Park, Sneha Sadarangani, Rebecca Siegel, Bennett Smith, Jennifer Tong, Alexa Valenstein & Lillie Williams
Cover Photographed by Darren White
Models Alex Hudak, Rachel Salvo, Rebecca Salvo
Monotype print title pages by Simran Singh
Table of Contents An Imperial Endeavor Learning to Work With the Blue La Bella Vita Raya, Coiffure and Couture These Are a Few of My Favorite Things Will Work for Clothes The Undergraduates Unisexual Une FĂŞte Noire A Vogue Life Dipped Plus One
4 5 6 7 8 14 16 24 26 36 38 44
AN IMPERIAL ENDEAVOR Written by Juliana Reyes
Photographed by Elizabeth Svokos
En route to Atlantic City, the Haverford lacrosse team was a vision: sports jackets, crisp button downs, leather shoes. But underneath his polished blazer, Max Hjelm kept a little secret. Forget Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers. Hjelm was rocking the Imperial Apparel. Founded last summer by Hjelm, 20, Imperial Apparel isn’t just another college kid’s part-time hobby. Hjelm established the business as a sole proprietorship, meaning that he is the exclusive owner of the company. He applied for a retail permit. He became a certified wholesale buyer. There might be other Imperial Apparels, but Hjelm’s is the only legitimate one. He registered the business name. It’s official. It’s his. He even has shirt tags. When his friends found out about his plans to start
Modeled by Sarah Kaufman
a T-shirt company, some were skeptical, said Brian Fleishhacker, a senior on the lacrosse team and good friend of Hjelm’s. “They were like, ‘Is he gonna make one T-shirt and call it a day?’” Fleishhacker remembered. Well, they were wrong. Hjelm returned to Haverford with an inventory of 96 T-shirts. Two designs, each bearing the Imperial Apparel logo: an “I” with a crown on it. But before he attempted anything concrete, he did his research. Hjelm turned to friends who had prior experience with businesses and T-shirt production, like Haverford alumnus John Magovern. Magovern, who was a senior on the lacrosse team while Hjelm was a freshman, started a polo shirt company during his time at Haverford. He advised Hjelm, or “Baby Max,” on everything from getting a tax ID number to choosing whether to register as an LLC or a corporation. Magovern had learned from experience about the value of starting one’s own business. He likened it to creating your own business class, since the bi-co doesn’t offer one. So Baby Max really did it. His business is a twopart deal: he’s a designer and a T-shirt broker. As a broker, Hjelm brings people’s T-shirt designs to life and delivers the best price. When he started, Hjelm had visions of selling a million shirts. “I was like, ‘I’ll blow up, no problem.” But it was hard, he said. “There’s a lot more to it than coming out with a cool shirt.” Though a couple of his friends might have had their doubts about Hjelm’s commitment, many said they always knew he would follow through and make it work. “He’s not the type to get discouraged,” said Jason Burriss, a friend of Hjelm’s from Conestoga High School. When Hjelm talked about his foray into T-shirt design and business management, it seemed almost impulsive, like some labor of love he stumbled upon and decided to pursue. He shrugged when asked why he chose to start a T-shirt company or what inspired him to draw his logo. But there’s one thing for certain.
“Max was always trying to be at the front of the pack,” Burriss said. He thought back to seventh grade when Hjelm ran for student body president and played The Who’s “Won’t Get Fooled Again.” “Ever since we were 12 years old, he was always the kid who was trying to wheel and deal.” Hjelm, who has four new T-shirt designs coming out in December, said his first market has always been
his friends. But it’s spreading. Haverford senior Grant Firestone brought a shirt to Wilmington, Del. as a gift for his sister. Burriss is taking five back to Indiana University for his friends. And because of Hjelm’s T-shirt brokerage, Imperial Apparel tags may soon be grazing Conestoga high schoolers’ necks. When asked about his art, Hjelm got shy. “I wouldn’t really call myself an artist,” he said. But a businessman, maybe. www.imperialapparel.com
earning to Work With the Blue
The air in Midtown always feels thick. It’s heavy, full of people and movement. This is what I walk through on my way to Last Alliance Group, a fashion showroom based in New York City. The showroom created and manages three lines: Freedom is Natural Nirvana, Rolling Stone Black Label and their newest denim line, Dawsen. It was Dana, Sita, Michael, Jamie, her newborn baby, Storie, and me on the 4th floor of 246 W. 38th Street. Glass doors and a black curtain greet you as you exit the elevator. Pull the curtains back and see black walls, black wood floors, black tables, black chairs and white chandeliers. Jeans, shirts, slacks and sweatshirts fill any potentially naked corner and surface, while patterns and samples line the walls. Four white computers hide in the back room where the brunt of the work is done and a make-shift play pen (made of shirts and sweaters and anything else soft in the office) is set up for Storie. My duties were separated into two parts: things that should be done right now, and things that should be done when there’s nothing to do right now. The latter consisted of me calling every single urban store in every single borough, asking if they wanted samples of our line and then making and sending out a press packet. In total, there were over 300 stores. Needless to say, I was happy when Dana, my boss and founder of the company, had a job that needed to be done right now. But being part of a smaller company with a tight-knit group of people had incredible benefits. I got to follow Dana around, go to big, important meetings. I saw the sample factories and cut fabric for new jean patterns.
Written by Elizabeth Svokos
We walked everywhere, at his request, and as my short legs struggled to keep up with his 6’3” stride, he told me everything he knew about the industry. There was a lot of individual attention and it was a comfort to come to the office and all work in the same room. But this closeness also meant that everyone can see your mistakes. I was petrified of doing something wrong, but at the same time, I was teaching myself to make decisions without the fear of failing. At past internships, I wouldn’t do anything until I checked if it was right a billion times. This was a waste of time. At Last Alliance Group, I learned to trust myself and discovered that I was capable of making decisions for the company. I also learned that making mistakes isn’t such a tragedy. PROJECT SHOW New York, the second biggest trade show in America, was 24 hours away and I was in charge of making the sign for Dawsen. I got the steel panel, the paint brushes, the vinegar and sandpaper to make the steel look rusted and the only thing left was the gold, black and brown paint from the Utrecht downtown. After a subway ride there and back, I walked into the office and produced the paint: gold, black and... blue? Blue is not brown. After ten minutes of interiorly flipping out and exteriorly acting calm, I took a chance. I made sure no one was looking and splashed the blue paint on the panel. I timidly played around with paintbrushes, spreading the color around the bottom. And then the edges. And then the middle. And then everywhere. Dana passed by and offered a word of praise. I smiled. The blue worked out.
La bella vita, from cobblestone to classroom
Written by Alexa Valenstein
It’s an Italian thing: a purple mini skirt, a fitted brown blazer and opaque tights. It’s not an easy outfit to pull off but she can do it. The lady is Professor Roberta Ricci, head of the Italian department at Bryn Mawr and native of Pisa, Italy. There is a confidence to her style that is often found in foreigners, who live where dress is not as constricted by society. How do you think Italy has influenced your style? Italy influenced my style completely since day one. I came to the US 15 years ago for graduate studies, and I carried with me all of my baggage and Italian culture. I feel it is important to go back to our countries to feel a part of it. I go back twice a year. Fashion and style and reading and culture are all the same and of equal importance. My style is both part of my personal and professional life. It’s also why students are attracted to native speakers when the look is complete. How do you build your daily look? A Pisa Me Ricci in her hometown of Pisa, Italy. I think about how I feel. There are some mornings where I feel more energetic, and I choose my outfit keeping that in mind and some other mornings I feel more directed towards my studies (like the books I will be teaching) so I try to reflect that. In your opinion, what is Italian style? We grow up with the idea that fashion is an integral part of one’s personality so it’s not the look, and the style grows with us. Image is very important to others and [Italians] so even if you go out to get groceries you dress appropriately. Our style is not necessarily influenced by a particular meeting you may have to go to or your particular career. It’s really part of the personality. Do you have any particular favorite pieces in your wardrobe that you love? I love stockings, colorful stockings which my mother sends to me every month or so. I also love gloves and hats. Are there any students that have influenced your style? Perhaps yes, I like very much the style of Bryn Mawr students. I like their spontaneity in dressing and their originality. They definitely influence me. Fashion is a statement, looking nicely for others is very important. Dressing well is a sign of respect for students and colleagues. It is our identity. Is there an outfit that sticks out in your memory? Something that marked a special occasion? I remember the first time I went skating, and I bought what I thought was the coolest outfit. It was in elementary school, a very athletic outfit, and it was for a contest. Is Italian style more eclectic or more reserved than other cities? I wouldn’t say it is more reserved; however, in many large cities how you dress is akin to your social status and what you can afford. You look your class, if you will. In Italy it’s not really like that. Even people with modest salaries still make how they look a priority. So again it’s really part of the culture. 6
Raya Coiffure and Couture The phone rings once and is promptly answered. A man with a heavy Russian accent and tasteful brown suede pants quietly speaks into the vintage telephone. “Good afternoon, Raya Coiffure and Boutique,” he says. He serenely takes down a message for a hair appointment and returns to the couch. He is Leonard Kadyshes, co-owner of Raya, both a salon and boutique on Haverford Station Road in Ardmore. “It’s not just about hair,” Kadyshes says, “it’s about the total look.” And past the front door is all you need for your total look. To the right are mirrors and salon chairs, all matching the brown and black theme. To the left are more designer shoes than you can handle and a backdrop of high-end designer garments ranging from dresses to pant suits to a poppy skirt just in from New York City. Walk up the steps and find the beauty department which Kadyshes jokes has “more machinery than a factory.” Raya aims to complete the total look for a woman. “To put it simply,” says Kadyshes, “it’s one-stop shopping. A woman can get her hair dyed, come to the other side to shop while the foil is still in her hair.” The shop opened in 1986, 11 years after Kadyshes moved from Russia to America. He met his second wife, Raya, whom the shop is named after, in America and decided to fuse her creativity and his business savvy and make the shop. They decided from the start to create the shop as both a salon and a boutique. Starting from practically nothing, they took the red brick building that used to be a simple jewelry store and within five months transformed it into what it is today. “Nothing was here, we did everything,” Kadyshes says while walking up the stairs to the second floor that was once an old, dusty attic but now defines the ultimate luxury in spa and beauty care. Raya Kadyshes manages the creative side of the business and is also a hair stylist and beautician. “She’s more into style,” says Kadyshes, but
then looks down at his tasteful outfit. “But I’m not saying I don’t have it.” He grins. The boutique walls are lined with classic garments from exclusive designers. Kadyshes does not hesitate to show off the collection of Sonia Rykiel sweaters, Alessandro Dell’Aqua shirts, Rodo shoes and Borbonese dresses. But their avant-garde and chic style is not achieved by the Kadysheses alone. “We have a buyer, Lana Rader, who has been with us for five years,” says Kadyshes. “She has great taste and the ability to judge what is suitable and not suitable.” Kadyshes says since hiring Rader, business has gone up 40 percent. “What she wears, people want to wear. She is talented and educated on style,” he says proudly. He smiles and adds, “She is also our niece.” Rader first started working at a store on 57th Street and Madison Avenue in New York City. It was a very successful business, but she was forced to move because her husband developed a rash from the pollution in the Big Apple. Luckily the move didn’t keep her from her city and her passion. Rader travels to New York City to explore the styles at the showrooms in Soho and Midtown where they purchase their garments. Kadyshes is passionate about his business. “It’s the greatest combination,” he says about the boutique and coiffure fusion, but he might as well have been talking about his wife and himself. Their business thrives because of their passion and the understanding that each of them must do their own job. “Our friends ask how it is possible to be together so much,” Kadyshes laughs, commenting on the fact that they generally work every day of the week together. He explains simply, “She does her part and I do mine.” “But she is the boss,” he smirks. “I never forget that.” Raya Coiffure and Boutique • 25 Haverford Station Road, Haverford, PA • 610-645-0707
Written by Elizabeth Svokos 7
BRYCE POPE - BRYN MAWR - 2010 - February 2009, a flea market in Berlin, Germany: “I literally walked in and they were the first things I saw,” Pope said. It’s hard to shop for her size 5½ feet. But these were the last of their kind in the market and fit her perfectly. “I kind of felt like they were waiting for me.”
written by JULIANA REYES & ELIZABETH SVOKOS - photographed by DARREN WHITE
DANIEL KENT- HAVERFORD - 2011 - “It’s not the greatest story,” Kent said. “I saw one in the store window in seventh grade and liked it.” He wears a bow tie everyday and likes to look extra snappy with a bowler hat. Kent, a collector of bow ties for eight years now, has over 43 pairs. At least you know what to get him for his birthday.
ANNE BUGNASKI - BRYN MAWR - 2010 - Bugnaski holds her pants up with “a bit of old man chic.” She first wore suspenders as part of a costume, but they soon became a staple of her style. They’re less constricting than a belt, she says. Besides, they’re “cool as shit.”
JON HORN - HAVERFORD - 2011 - It used to be his routine – before Horn would leave his apartment, he’d make sure he had his RVCA hat on. “When I don’t have my hat, I get anxious,” he said. “It’s a security blanket.” To some people it defines him, “they know me as the kid who wears the hat.”
CASEY ROSS - HAVERFORD - 2010 - Ross customized her sweatshirt and vest all the way down to the thread (she used waxed dental floss, ideal for its strength). Since the jacket was leather, she had to use an awl rather than an X-acto knife to stud it, “along with pliers and a shit-ton of patience.”
shoot team - JULIANA REYES, ELIZABETH SVOKOS, DARREN WHITE, RACHEL OLINER and SIMRAN SINGH
WILL WORK FOR CLOTHES: A DAY During the summer of 2009, Simran Singh (BMC ’10) interned with the production team at theory in New York City. Below is a detailed account of a day in her life as a fashion industry intern. I woke up like I did every New York morning to the sound of a cabby’s horn and the smell of the fresh fish being delivered to the oyster bar downstairs. Ugh. It is 7:00 a.m. and I’m about to get ready for another long day at work. Work this summer is no 25-story building off of Wall Street. It is no cubical at Blah, Blah & Blah LLC on East 82nd. Work is the Meatpacking District. Work is the cobble stone streets, glamorous storefront windows, Chelsea Market and the celebrities. Work is t h e o r y, 38 Gansevoort St. New York, New York. 7:25 a.m. I hop into the shower, feeling a bit dizzy and dehydrated from last night at The Jane with Rachel Oliner. Thanks, but no thanks to breakfast this morning. 8:15 a.m. Dressed in leather leggings and an oversized white button down, I crouch by the mirror in my tiny bedroom in my tinier apartment on Cornelia St. while I blow dry my hair. Andrew Rosen, the “big boss” and CEO of theory, expects nothing less than perfection in the office. Boy, those elevator rides with him are awkward. 8:47 a.m. Of course I live in a four-story walk up with uneven stairs. Teetering down, I’m out the door and around the corner, soon passing the infamous 6th Ave sex toy shops. Man thongs and leather whips, oh, how I love New York City. 9:03 a.m. On the E train to W. 14th and 8th Ave. Just one stop away from my West Village apartment but far enough to avoid walking in my 4-inch heels. There is a guy staring at me. There is a guy staring at me. Oh God. Look the other way, Simran. 9:10 a.m. I scan my employee card as I enter theory headquarters. “Hi Eddie, how are you?” “Not as sweet as you,” greets the doorman. A nice guy, but come on, he uses the same line every day. 9:30 a.m. I can hear the fabric-buying team gab about last night’s episode of The Bachelorette when Kseniya Ruvinskaya, my boss, finally walks into the office. She sits at her desk beside me and logs into her email. 179 new messages. Great. It’s going to be a long day.
Kseniya, who graduated from Haverford College in 2004, is the assistant to the Director of Import Production, Sumit Gaur. I am their intern. The production team at theory is essentially a go-between the design team and the sales team. We buy the fabrics, lining, sequins, buttons and zippers and order them to be sent from the mills in Italy to the factories in Hong Kong. We get samples made into finished pieces and send them to the warehouse for distribution. 12:30 p.m. After two and a half cups of coffee, I’ve finished eight shipping authorizations, individually inputted yardages for 35 garments for Fall 2009 into BMS (the software we use to track design, production and sales), packaged three samples for eventual shipment to Hong Kong and sent four emails to factory agents about the production status on the Tubular tank dress for Bergdorf’s. Oh and in between all that I Gmail chatted with a high school friend interning uptown at Saks Fifth Ave. 1:00 p.m. Lunch. Food. Need food. I run to the deli on the corner of W. 14th and 8th Ave. and order my regular. Mexican Chicken Wrap, no chicken. It is a delicious blend of cheese, avocado, lettuce and salsa. Boiled egg on the side. Got to stay lean in the city of super models. 2:15 p.m. Kseniya has a big task for me: cutting fabric for the whole Spring 2010 line sheet, men’s collection. Oh no. That means I have to go to 13th St., a completely different location for designing and sample production. Oh noo. That means I have to talk to George, the head designer for menswear. Why does he have to be so cute? And straight. 5:45 p.m. Fingers are cut up and so are 166 swatches of fabric, sorted and pinned to the line sheets alphabetically by style name, fabric name and the factory where it will be produced. 5:47 p.m. I think I need a band-aid. 6:05 p.m. I hand Kseniya the swatches and finally the workday is over. I run my time sheet up to Lizzie on the 4th floor showroom. There is a male model in the elevator with me. I don’t mind. 7:30 p.m. I walk through Washington Square Park to Astor Place for free yoga at Yoga To The People. Inhale, exhale. Mary Kate skipped today. 10:45 p.m. I meet up with Rachel for another night of New York City glamour. Wherever we go, whatever we do, the city keeps up with us. Or maybe it is us trying to keep up with the city. But then it is 7:00 a.m. again and another day as a fashion industry intern begins.
IN THE LIFE OF A FASHION INTERN During the summer of 2009, Rachel Oliner (HC’11) interned at Joey Showroom, a high-end contemporary showroom located in Chelsea, New York, N.Y. A showroom acts as a manager for the brands that it carries and is essentiallythe middleman between the buyers and the individual lines themselves. Buyers come to showrooms in order to pick out the pieces that they would like to carry in their stores in the upcoming seasons. Joey Showroom carries such brands as Black Halo, Rich & Skinny, Laila Azhar and Anne Leman. 7: 45 a.m. I pull myself begrudgingly out of bed and eat breakfast in the tiny living room of my NYU apartment. I can see the man in the apartment building next door stretching naked for the world to see. Good morning, New York. 8:20 a.m. I hop on the 6 train at Union Square, then I join the frantic rush transferring onto the El train to 8th Ave. and 14th St. 8:37 a.m. Note to self: stop eating bananas in front of the construction workers on 11th Ave. These catcalls are getting old. 9:02 a.m. Thank god I’m here before my Chelsea Halbach, Office Manager and also my boss. That’s always a good start. I spot the other interns, and we make coffee and file papers for the sales representatives. Janelle, one of the interns, comes in wearing clothes from yesterday. No comment. 10:12 a.m. A deliveryman hands me three overstuffed garment bags from Saks Fifth Avenue, filled with Black Halo samples. We have to steam them and then return them to their correct spots in the showroom. Visual merchandising goes like this: clothes are sectioned off by brands and then by ship date (earliest first). They are then organized by color, by style and finally by length (tops are placed in front of dresses, dresses are placed in front of pants, etc.). 12:15 p.m. Three of the most put-together people I have ever seen come out of the elevator. Fur vests, leather motorcycle jackets, Louboutins galore. Turns out they are the buyers from Barney’s. I immediately offer them coffee, tea, possibly my soul if Joey said so. 12:22 p.m. Joey just asked me to model the Black Halo clothes for the buyers. I just ate a huge lunch, damn those New York bagels. I change in the bathroom, and I put on one of the line’s quintessential Jackie O. dresses in lipstick red. I shove my feet into one of the sales representative’s 2 sizes too small heels. Dear God, Rachel, please don’t fall in
front of the buyers. 12:30 p.m. The buyers take pictures of me, and then my boss politely informs me that I can resume being an intern again. Bye bye, modeling career. 1:20 p.m. The showroom is quiet again and there is almost nothing to do. Sarah, an intern from Arizona, and I are hanging out with Majeed, one of the sales representatives who used to be the director of Moschino. He tells us that if we want to break into the fashion industry, we have to stay away from fashion magazines and anything resembling haute couture; the real money is in the showrooms and the expensive contemporary lines. 2:00 p.m. Sarah and I head to Bloomingdale’s to merchandise the Rich & Skinny denim area. Shouldn’t the sales people here be doing this? Apparently we are the ones who have to make sure that the jeans are displayed well and are organized in the correct style and size order. 2:40 p.m. We head to the 7th floor of Bloomingdale’s, where, nestled in the bedding department, is the best frozen yogurt shop in the whole city: Forty Carrots. 3:00 p.m. We return to the showroom, where we discretely try to wipe off the chocolate and raspberry swirl from our lips. My boss asks me to go fetch him several bottles of diet tonic water. Is this some kind of sick joke to play on the measly fashion intern? Is there even such a thing as diet tonic water? Are there calories in water to begin with? 4:15 p.m. Proven wrong. Diet tonic water is purchased. We begin to clean the showroom and merchandise it before we leave for the day. 6:05 p.m. I get back to my apartment and make my usual peanut butter and jelly sandwich for dinner. Hurray for budgeting! 10:30 p.m. I meet Simran Singh at the Gates, which is probably my most favorite spot in the entire city. There’s some indie movie after-party going down, and I think I spot the camera crew from the reality show, “The City.” 10:52 p.m. This virgin mojito is delicious. 11:15 p.m. We sit down at one of the bottle-service tables and grab some non-alcoholic beers with these rocker dudes who look like Dave Grohl circa 1992. We get in their private, chauffeured Denali and head to their loft apartment in Chelsea. You only live once, right?
Photography by Bennett Smith
On Chris Jacket, Banana Republic. Tie, shirt, pants, modelâ€™s own.
On Chris Jacket, vintage. Shirt, Ralph Lauren. On Erin Capelet, Annie Sez. Skirt, H&M. Top, American Apparel. Shoes, Nine West. On Ryan Scarf, Romano. Jacket, vintage.
On Erin Jacket, vintage. Pants, Theory. Shoes, Deena & Ozzy. On Tess Skirt, vintage. Top, 0jacket, modelâ€™s own.
On Tess Dress, Sara Berman.
On Chris Scarf, Burberry. On Julia Jacket, Brooks Brothers.
Models Ryan Rubio, Chris Esposito, Erin Verrier, Julia Lebouvier, Tess Clancy, Frankie Dillard Styled by Peter Loewi, Ralph Alexis, Rachel Oliner, Elizabeth Svokos, Simran Singh, Juliana Reyes
On Erin Jacket, Silence & Noise. Pants, vintage. Shirt, vintage. Shoes, Deena & Ozzy. On Tess Shoes, Drew. Sweater, shirt, pants, vintage. On Frankie Jacket, Tommy Hilfiger. Skirt, DKNY.
unisexual THE REINVENTION OF TAILORED ANDROGYNY Written by Rachel Park
A woman dressed in a tuxedo and a top hat performs in a cabaret show, seducing the audience with her arresting rendition of “Quand L’Amour Meurt.” Soon afterward, she lights a cigarette and walks with a confident, cool air around the tables. Marlene Dietrich made this gender-bending scene famous in Josef Von Sternberg’s 1930 film, “Morocco.” The duality of her masculine attire and demeanor generated a national sensation. During a time when the prevailing style was form-fitting garments that accentuated women’s curves, Dietrich and other Hollywood stars, like Katharine Hepburn, wore men’s trousers and loose blouses. Hepburn once said, “I have not lived as a woman. I have lived as a man. I’ve just done 24
what I damn well wanted to…and I’ve made enough money to support myself and I ain’t afraid of being alone.” Her bold fashion choices were emblematic of her individualism. While Hollywood, from the 1920s into the 1950s, promoted images ranging from the flapper to the pin-up, Hepburn staunchly stuck to her tailored suits. The androgynous look resurfaced most notably in the late ‘70s when Diane Keaton donned a white collared button-up, tie, dark vest and loose khakis in “Annie Hall.” Fast forward to Fall 2009, and women’s clothing is heading back in the androgynous direction with oversized blazers, boyfriend jeans and Oxford button-ups. At stake for designers is the task of imbuing new meaning to classic pieces and textiles.
Giving a textile, like velvet, “a sleek cut takes it [away] from an old-fashioned look,” said Tyrell Brown, a manager at the American Apparel store in West Philadelphia. Although menswear-inspired women’s clothing is not new, it has been tweaked for the modern consumer. Lately large blazers and jackets have communicated a more casual aesthetic. Brown said that the casual and the professional domains are not mutually exclusive anymore. American Apparel has been largely successful in generating mass market appeal in their variety of unisex clothing. Brown, 27, said that their most popular items were anything collared and that the company was “going for a more tailored, professional look.”
style,” Guyer, 21, said. “You don’t need to sacrifice your femininity to achieve a boyish inspired look.” These unisex items are designed for women but with the twist of looking like menswear. “Now these trends are being made to cater to a woman’s body, making them the ultimate staple,” Guyer said. Brown said that the androgynous style has taken some time to filter into the mass market, but “people do [value] that there are styles men and women can appreciate alike.” Because men are wearing slimmer-cut clothing, the women’s line has expanded and crossed over to the unisex realm. The “boyfriend jean” – loose, baggy, and/or ripped – is popular among
“You don’t need to sacrifice your femininity to achieve a boyish inspired look.” According to Brown, last year’s ubiquitous look on University of Pennsylvania’s campus was leggings and oversized t-shirts, such as the “Sexuali-tee” at American Apparel. “It was cute, but everyone had it,” he said. Although these tees and big hoodies maintain high sales, Brown said that they are a “basic item that everyone likes to wear. For me, that’s not fashion.” He hopes that the blazer becomes a standard for relaxed, informal attire. “[You] want to look chic,” he said. “Not so casual that people don’t take you seriously.” Some students expressed that their personal style has always incorporated menswear. “For me, being super girly is scary,” said Molly Guyer, a student at Philadelphia University. “I need something like a safety blanket. White Tshirts and Converse, vests and blazers give me that extra comfort.” She has a penchant for men’s light undershirts and vests because both are “versatile.” “I love the vest because I’m so basic in my
young consumers because of this comfort factor. However, Brown hopes to see more women wearing high-waisted pants. “A lot of people are still … afraid of how they look [but] it’s really flattering for most women,” he said. In essence, Brown wants to see more risk in fashion. “Not enough people are stepping outside of the box,” he said. Trends in the fashion world are fleeting and ephemeral. In the words of Oscar Wilde: “Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.” Unisex clothing may not be as popular in six months, but the sleek, tailored aesthetic is always in vogue.
From left to right: Olivia Polermo, Agyness Deyn & Jessica Stam Photos courtesy of Justin Campbell for www.buzzfoto.com 25
Photography by Darren White On Jessamine Bodysuit, vintage. Shoes, Colonial lMadness. Necklace, vintage.
On Kelley Bralette, Urban Outfitters. Skirt, vintage. Belt, Jones New York. On Mary Alice Dress, Betsey Johnson. On Dylan Shirt, jacket, model’s own. On David Shirt, model’s own. Pants, Levi’s. Shoes, Urban Outfitters. On Jessamine Trench coat, Burberry. Bodysuit, vintage. Shoes, Alejandro Ingelmo.
On Mary Alice Dress, H&M. Shoes, Betsey Johnson. On David Shirt, Hanes. Jacket, modelâ€™s own. Pants, American Apparel. Shoes, Urban Outfitters
On Kelley Dress, vintage. On Mary Alice Vest, Ports 1961. Skirt, H&M Shoes, Alejandro Ingelmo On David Sweater, Shirt, Pants, Shoes, modelâ€™s own.
On Dylan Shirt, model’s own. Pants, Levi’s. Shoes, Urban Outfitters.
On Kelley Jacket, Urban Outfitters. Pants, Deena & Ozzy. Shirt, shoes, modelâ€™s own.
On David Shirt, Hanes. Pants, shoes, modelâ€™s own. On Dylan Shirt, pants, shoes, modelâ€™s own. On Jessamine Bralette, Deena & Ozzy. Skirt, vintage. Shoes, Colonial Madness. Gloves, Urban Renewal.
Models Jessamine Kelley, Dylan Lazovik, Kelley Neil, Mary Alice Postel, David Richardson Styling by Juliana Reyes, Elizabeth Svokos, Rachel Oliner, Darren White, Christina Ardila, Rebecca Siegel and Simran Singh Makeup by Ingrid Nieters and Jennifer Tong
On Mary Alice Top, vintage. Jacket, Urban Outfitters. Leggings, American Apparel. Shoes, Alejandro Ingelmo.
a vogue life Written by Sneha Sadarangani Frescoed walls, stilettos on the linoleum, racks of haute couture and the smell of glossy magazine pages hanging in the air. Enter Vogue. An internship at the Bombay office of this uber-chic magazine replaced my lazy days of summer sunshine. While I had never actually read the magazine and cannot differentiate between Cavalli and Trussardi (hey, give me credit for knowing their names), it turns out that Vogue is more than ‘white being the new black.’ It’s about a lifestyle. It’s a dinner table set for the refined palette, incorporating travelers’ tales literary recommendations and profiles of A-list achievers. Vogue caters to the uptown reader, the froth on the cappuccino. I quickly found my niche in the Features department, dissociated from the fashion and beauty buzz. My boss, Divia Thani, had a dry wit and an aversion to the frills and fancies of the oh-so-exclusive. My first assignment was a guide to the honeymoon destinations of the rich and famous. Divia rolled 36
her eyes as we went over the list: Maldives, Barbados, Bora Bora and the like. Her advice? Don’t bother with the sightseeing spots, they just want to fuck. By the time I finished the article, I had scored 19 out of 20 on US Weekly’s ‘How well do you know your celebrity honeymoons?’ quiz. While I hardly expected a Devil Wears Prada scenario, there was none of the anticipated dirty politics of a high-end fashion magazine. The work environment was laid back and the employees were amiable. I did not witness anyone accidentally-onpurpose spilling coffee over someone’s white silk shirt right before a presentation or any blatant stealing of someone else’s creative vision. Rivalry only seemed to surface during a Vogue and GQ pool tournament. As both magazines are under the Condé Nast banner, they share office space… and a competitive spirit. Employees from each side donned their game face as they battled it out for the massive trophy, indicative of the skills so clearly essential to their jobs. As GQ clinched the win, I half expected the cue sticks to turn into weapons,
but the Vogue side managed to show impressive restraint. Kudos, fashionistas. The office fashion reached all ends of the spectrum. While some women pouted their scarlet lips and casually perched their Louis Vuittons in the crook of their elbow, others dragged their heels in
In addition to signaling the start of the weekend, Friday evenings at the office were also synonymous with a wine and cheese extravaganza. More specifically, abundant beer and Cheetos. After 5 p.m., everyone stopped working and proceeded to the conference room for ‘Fun Friday.’ After a gruel-
The office fashion reached all ends of the spectrum. While some women pouted their scarlet lips and casually perched their Louis Vuittons in the crook of their elbow, others dragged their heels in flip-flops. flip-flops. Or maybe that was just Alu, the only non- ing week of rubbing shoulders with famous models gay male in the office. He shared a desk with Timo- and shopping for the latest fashions, it’s no wonder thy, who was quite a vision in his tailored suits and that the employees needed to unwind. sleek steel-grey hair. As creative heads, it never While I didn’t get to go on set for a photo shoot, ceased to amaze Divyak, a fellow inme that they actutern, never failed to ally managed to provide me with the agree on the layinside scoop. His out for the magawicked humor and zine. ability to recount the Jimmy Choo most mundane story shoes replaced with pizzazz made files and foldme doubt the scaners along the ofdal and spice in his fice shelves and stories. Nevertheless, the supply closets Divyak’s desk was were definitely not probably busier than the place to look the editor’s, as we all for stationary. Verwent over for our daily sace dresses and dose of gossip. Turns Armani coats mayout that models never be, but staplers? reveal their true size, Hell no. The stylists Photos courtesy of www.vogue.com downplaying it to the sorted through these extent that photo designer pieces while simultaneously checking shoots often turn into a fitting frenzy. The only item Perezhilton.com, as they worked to create cutting that the models can squeeze into is the shoes. edge trends. Simply put, Petals shrieked over the Don’t judge. diamante encrusted Christian Louboutins and tried By the end of the six weeks, I definitely felt like I them on, while Archana showed me pictures of had learned something about working in Features Chace Crawford and herself during her recent trip for a quality fashion magazine. Well, enough to to London. write this tongue-in-chic article at least. 37
Photography by Elizabeth Svokos Makeup by Ingrid Nieters and Jennifer Tong Art by Sharon Li
Models John McClure, Van Nguyen, Kali Graham, Laura Reeve, Sam Ahmed, Taytiana Welch Shoot Team Rachel Oliner, Juliana Reyes, Elizabeth Svokos, Darren White, Simran Singh, Ralph Alexis Layout and Graphic Design by Eurie Kim
On Riki Robe, vintage. Earrings, Christian Dior. On Margaret Slip, vintage, Piccadilly Court. Necklace, vintage. Ring, vintage.
On Riki Dress, Josh Brody. Coat and hat, vintage, Piccadilly Court. On Margaret Dress, vintage, Piccadilly Court. Shoes, Colonial Madness.
On Jillian Robe, Victoriaâ€™s Secret. Necklace, vintage. On Peter Pants, Freedom Is Natural Nirvana. Shirt, All-son
On Jillian Dress, Josh Brody. Coat, vintage, Piccadilly Court. Shoes, Michael Kors. On Peter Pants, Freedom Is Natural Nirvana. Shirt, All-son. Coat, vintage, Piccadilly Court.
Picadilly Court, located on Bryn Mawr Ave. in Bryn Mawr, Pa., is a little gem of a vintage store on the Main Line. You have to be in on the secret or you’ll miss it, hidden under Parvin’s Pharmacy. It’s almost overwhelming inside – in such a little space, there’s so much to explore, from the stack of fur hats to the overflowing rack of slip dresses and costume jackets to the treasure trove of tiny trinkets behind the glass counter, like a pair of sterling silver tennis racket earrings. Charming owner Lyell Mahoney is always eager to help. But she’s also great to chat with, so even if you don’t find anything on your sporadic Picadilly stop, you still leave with a smile on your face. - Juliana Reyes http://www.piccadillycourt.net/ Josh Brody is a contemporary women’s clothing line based in New York City. These inviting garments are designed using bold colors and prints, allowing the unique and asymmetrical designs to be appreciated. These dainty pieces can be dressed up or down and with the choices of gray, black and bright pink from the Holiday 2009 line, there is a dress for every event. - Elizabeth Svokos
Photography by Sam Kaplan and Elizabeth Svokos
On Jillian Dress, Josh Brody. Shoes, Michael Kors. Opposite page
Styling by Juliana Reyes, Elizabeth Svokos and Alexa Valenstein
On Jillian Jumpsuit, Josh Brody. Jacket, vintage, Piccadilly Court.
Makeup by Ingrid Nieters
On Peter Shirt, Brooks Brothers. Jacket, vintage, Piccadilly Court.