tECH SCHOOL
Classic French Omelet STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassy Vires
If you ask French chefs how to measure the talent of a fellow chef, many will agree on one simple test: Make an omelet. Something so simple yet so elegant can truly test a chef’s attention to detail, patience and intuition. The classic French omelet was introduced to America by Dione Lucas at her New York restaurant The Gingerman. Lucas, a predecessor to Julia Child, was known to have an arsenal of cast iron omelet pans that she never washed but merely wiped clean between uses. Today a nonstick skillet is the accepted omelet pan. Specifically, one that is 7 to 8 inches in diameter with 2-inch sides and a long curved handle.
The French omelet is an individual portion made from two to three eggs with no addition of water, cream or milk. While American country omelets are typically large and fluffy and stuffed with hearty fillers, the French omelet is light, moist and delicate, with a slightly unset center. When fillers are used, they include mild ingredients such as herbs, cheese or tomato in small portions so as to not detract from the flavor and texture of the eggs themselves. The French omelet is cooked on medium-high heat in butter, and it is cooked very quickly so the eggs are never browned. The eggs themselves should be whipped for no more than 40 vigorous strokes, and the whites should be completely incorporated with the yolks. Once the eggs hit the hot pan, the whisking continues, either with a dinner fork or with forceful jerking of the pan back and forth to keep the eggs moving as they cook. Then comes the tough part. The French omelet should be plated in a very specific way. It isn’t folded over like the American omelet but rather folded in on itself from both sides by sheer force of shaking the pan and then inverted onto a warm serving plate. Julia Child, who made some seriously ugly French omelets, would cheat by using two forks to tuck in the sides of the omelet once it hit the plate. While I am not above using a fork to help the process along, a perfect French omelet comes out as a clean, long oval and is simply garnished with butter or crème fraîche. Served with a green salad, it is delectable at any meal. Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.
COOKING VIDEO!
What’s the difference between French and American omelets? Watch and learn. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video
in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.
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feastSTL.com
MARCH 2012
Omelet with Fines Herbes This incredibly simple recipe will thwart even exoerienced chefs, but the ingredients are inexpensive and the preparation time is negligible, so try it once, learn from your mistakes and try it again. Serves | 1 | 3 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp
large eggs fines herbes, chopped* salt and freshly ground black pepper butter, unsalted crème fraîche or softened butter for garnish
| Preparation | Crack the eggs in a small glass bowl and season with fines herbes, salt and pepper. | 1 | Whip the eggs for 30 to 40 vigorous strokes and set aside. Heat a 7- to 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and add
butter. Swirl the pan to coat with melting butter. Once the butter is melted but not browned, add the whipped eggs.
| 2 | Using a fork, quickly stir the eggs and shake the pan back and forth until the eggs are almost set. Quickly and forcefully shake the eggs toward the end of the pan, opposite the handle. Run the fork around the outer edge of the eggs, loosening them from the pan. | 3 | Fold the top of the egg mixture (closest to
the handle) down halfway. Tap the handle of the pan to gently slide the egg mixture halfway out of the pan, and then use the fork to fold this edge back toward the middle of the omelet.
| 4 | Grip the handle from underneath, and gently invert the omelet onto a warmed plate. Garnish with softened butter or crème fraîche and serve immediately. *Fines herbes is a blend of chives, parsley, tarragon and chervil. Dried fines herbes is readily available, but fresh is always best.