July 2018 Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st

feastmagazine.com |

j u ly 2 0 1 8

P. 1 6

inspired

summe r

soft serve P. 5 4

beat the heat

frozen granita

with

c o c k ta i l s P. 6 0

bite into

iconic

smashed

burgers

Fan Fareďż˝ g a m e - day gourmet

11 baseball stadiums serving all-star snacks on p. 42

Meet #KCPenguin.

Hello, Kansas City. We couldn’t be any more excited to open our doors to a city with such great history and a vibrant arts community. We are a contemporary art museum, boutique hotel, and home to The Savoy restaurant. Join us to view contemporary art, experience our unique brand of hospitality, and enjoy a meal. You’ve welcomed us, now we welcome you.

LOUISVILLE | CINCINNATI | BENTONVILLE | DURHAM | LEXINGTON | OKLAHOMA CITY | NASHVILLE | KANSAS CITY NOW OPEN 21CMUSEUMHOTELS.COM 2

feastmagazine.com

jun e 2 0 1 7

H T R O W K R O W THE

Missouri winemakers are no strangers to early mornings.

Before you've had your first cup of coffee, they are already hard at work as the sun rises. All that effort and countless hours are poured into every single bottle. Their dedication and proud heritage is fundamental in crafting nationally recognized wines.

From the first sip, you'll know this quality can't be rushed.

Some things in life are just worth the work.

missouriwine.org Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

3

up

7.13 ‑ 7.14

BBQ COMPETITION IN FESTUS WEST CITY PARK

co

Visit www.cityoffestus.org for more details as they develop.

mi

TH ANNUAL 8.11 8BLUES FUNK FESTIVAL IN FESTUS WEST CITY PARK

ng

ev

6pm- 10:30pm, FREE event sponsored by Friends of Festus Parks & Festus Tourism Commission.

Family friendly event with photo booth and bubble bus for kiddo’s.

Food and drinks are available for purchase.

Bring your lawn chairs, NO outside coolers allowed.

en

Only 20 minutes from St. Louis, Kimmswick and Jefferson County & Ste. Genevieve wine countries.

ts

Torey Casey & the Southside Hustle, starts at 6pm / Marquis Knox, starts at 8:30pm.

For a one night stay or a weekend getaway, stay at one of these fine establishments.

Check out our new website!

4

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

www.cityoffestus.org

july 2018

from the staff

42 50 54 60

fan fare

Move over, peanuts and Cracker Jacks: These 11 baseball stadiums prove that parks are seriously upping their concession games.

good to the last hop

Rolling Meadows Farm Brewery grows wheat, hops and more to brew unique and hyper-local craft beer in central Illinois.

camp granita Beat the heat with frosty, easy-to-assemble granitas in fresh, summery flavors.

get smashed

Find four historic spots to grab a quintessential summer standard: smashed burgers.

|6|

from the PUBLIsher

| 10 |

dIgItaL content

| 12 |

feast tv

Summer classics What’s online this month Good Eggs

dIne

| 16 |

on trend

| 17 |

one on one

| 18 |

where we’re dInIng

| 19 |

shoP here

| 19 |

artIsan ProdUct

| 20 |

one on one

Surprising soft serve Jeff Spencer of Just Jeff’s The Backlot at Alamo Drafthouse, J. Devoti Trattoria, The Restaurant at 1900 The Market at Kearney Culinary Academy Craft Beer Jerky

Ryan Brazeal and Jessica Armstrong of Novel

drInk

| 24 |

on trend

| 25 |

one on one

| 26 |

where we’re drInkIng

| 27 |

shoP here

| 27 |

artIsan ProdUct

| 28 |

the mIx

| 29 |

on the sheLf

Lactose beers Troy Bedik of Pink Boots Society St. Louis Somerset Ridge Wine & Cider Bar at Rosehill Gardens, Tropical Liqueurs, The Tiger Club Future Ancestor The Coffee Ethic cold brew Cherry limeade What to drink this month

cook

| 32 |

| 34 |

Table of conTenTs phoTo of sTrawberry graniTa (p. 54) by amanda wilens coVer phoTo of gcs crediT union ballpark’s baseball’s besT burger (p. 42) by judd demaline

heaLthy aPPetIte

Summer rolls with spicy dipping sauce mystery shoPPer

Salicornia

| 36 |

qUIck fIx

| 38 |

sweet Ideas

Beer-braised sausage, onion and pepper sandwiches Chocolate shell ice-cream topping

Volume 8

| Issue 7 | July 2018

Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

sales

director of sales

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 account Manager, st. louis region

Jennifer Tilman, jtilman@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1205 account Manager, Kansas city region

Pete Nicklin, pnicklin@feastmagazine.com, 785.431.8025 sPecial Projects editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244

eDITORIal senior editor

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing editor

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com digital editor

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas city contributing editor

Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor

Mabel Suen editorial intern

Katherine Herrick fact checKer

Rose Hansen Proofreader

Erica Hunzinger contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Tessa Cooper, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Amanda Elliott, Ana Elliott, April Fleming, Natalie Gallagher, Rose Hansen, Becky Hardin, Hilary Hedges, Lauren Miers, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Lauren Smith, Lillian Stone, Jenn Tosatto, Jessica Vaughn, Amanda Wilens

aRT

art director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production designer

Kelly Glueck, kglueck@feastmagazine.com contributing PhotograPhers

Brandon Alms, Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Keith Borgmeyer, Adam Caselman, Judd Demaline, Ana Elliott, Shane Epping, Becky Hardin, Sean Locke, Jacklyn Meyer, Mark Neuenschwander, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Drew Piester, Jonathan Pollack, Ben Romang, Madison Sanders, Amy Schromm, Jennifer Silverberg , Mabel Suen, Logan Wade, Amanda Wilens

FeasT TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

COnTaCT Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com

DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Eric Freeman for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at EFreeman@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2018 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

6

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

Miso ramen is easy to make at home – the hardest part is timing the egg so you get the yolk to just the right custardy consistency, and even that’s pretty simple. Head to the recipes in the Feast TV section of feastmagazine.com for my weeknight-friendly ramen recipe that’s quick and really delicious.

publisher’s letter

Y

ou might not know it at first glance, but the bun on our cover burger is actually a Krispy Kreme donut.

Yes, seriously.

Man v. Food, USA Today and Sports Illustrated have all covered this over-the-top treat, which is referred to as Baseball’s Best Burger by the folks at GCS Credit Union Ballpark in Sauget, Illinois. You can enjoy their version of the Luther Burger while taking in a Gateway Grizzlies game, and it’s just one of the fan-favorite eats found at stadiums in our region. Try the Mutt Burger at Missouri Southern State University’s Warren Turner Field; the black-velvet cookies at U.S. Baseball Park in Ozark, Missouri; and Drunken Barbacoa Beef Nachos at Kauffman Stadium in Kansas City. Turn to p. 42 for our roundup of what to eat and drink when enjoying America’s pastime at ballparks big and small this summer.

Burgers are obviously favorite summertime fare, and personally, when I crave a burger, I want a mid-century-style, classic smashed burger. Those crispy edges with just the right amount of salt and fat and melty cheese… When a smashed burger is done right, it’s heavenly, and we’ve found some local spots that have been cooking those thin burgers to order for more than half a century (p. 60). Feast is printed in Breese, Illinois, and when I have the chance to go on a press check, I try to time it so I have an excuse to stop by Wally’s Drive In and grab a double cheeseburger with fries. Another favorite is the double

cheeseburger at Gordon’s Stoplight Drive-In in Crystal City, Missouri.

The guys at the griddle know exactly how much salt to sprinkle on those fresh beef patties as they smash them down to create lacy caramelized edges. Thanks to our intrepid writers, Mugs Up Drive-In and Hi-Boy Drive-In are now on my radar as well – it looks like a road trip is in order. We round out the issue with writer and recipe developer Amanda Wilens’ take on granita, a classic Italian dessert that’s incredibly easy to make. The slushy concoction can feature a range of flavors, including seasonal fruit and coffee. Turn to p. 54 for Amanda’s summer-perfect recipes with boozy variations.

And finally, what’s summer without cold beer? Senior editor Liz Miller takes you to Rolling Meadows Farm Brewery in central Illinois to explore its hyper-local brews that feature fruit and herbs. Turn to p. 50 for Liz’s profile of Dustin Regan and Chris Trudeau, two friends who are brewing beers that were inspired by a wild hop vine found growing on the family farm and carry on their moms’ homebrew legacies, as well as pay tribute to Abraham Lincoln’s tavern-owning past.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

07.18

2018-2019

season

amanda wilens “The granita story was definitely my favorite project with Feast to date. Frozen treats can be so tricky to work with on a photo shoot, but the vibrant colors and ingredients made for an amazing summery look. I didn’t want them to all be super traditional, but rather something for everyone. Whether you like something tropical, herby or simple and sweet, you’re covered. Editing the recipes to work both with alcohol and without was definitely a challenge, but it was exciting pairing the right flavor profiles together.

As a baker who loves precision, I also enjoyed making sure the measurements worked out perfectly; you have to make sure you have enough alcohol so it’s a true cocktail, but not to add too much so they don’t freeze properly.” (Camp Granita, p. 54)

ben romang Springfield, Illinois, Photographer “It was great going out to shoot Rolling Meadows Farm Brewery; we really couldn’t have asked for a better assignment. Not only did we get to take photos of Dustin Regan during the brewing process, but we also got to taste the beers and really see their work from start to finish. They took us on a tour of the grounds, and it was so cool to see all their ingredients being grown right on the farm. It really made me appreciate the work they put into their beers and the passion they have for it.” (Good to the Last Hop, p. 50)

tessa cooper Springfield, Missouri, Writer & Photographer “With summer being road trip season, I’m always on the lookout for cold brew to sip instead of stale gas-station coffee. Springfield’s ridiculously good coffee scene has ruined me, in a way: Thanks to the artisan cups I’ve grown accustomed to, not just any cold brew will do. This is why I was so happy when The Coffee Ethic started selling bottled cold brew. I recommend Remedy, the house offering, because it’s strong enough to do the trick, yet you can still taste the notes of chocolate. In addition, manager and head roaster Nate Murphy is always my go-to source for coffee recommendations when I travel. Whether it’s a weekend trip to Oklahoma City or an international vacation all over Scandinavia, he has all the insider info on the best coffee shops.” (Artisan Product, p. 19)

7-show season ticket package now on sale!

©Disney

St. Louis, Writer & Photographer

November 7-25

September 18-30

December 26 – January 6

Jan. 29 – Feb. 10

March 26 – April 7

April 23 – May 5

May 14-26

subscribe to the 7-show season ticket package & you can for swap for one of these specials:

October 5-7

December 6-9

December 22-23

March 12-17

December 11-16

mark neuenschwander Joplin, Missouri, Photographer “I always have a delicious time working with Feast magazine, especially when I get to show off food from my hometown of Joplin, Missouri. I was ashamed to admit I hadn’t heard of the Mutt Burger before this feature, and now I feel everyone must try it – such a simple but succulent hamburger. The MSSU crew came in specially for the shoot; I appreciate Randon and the team over at the college for making sure we got to photograph this lovely, cheesy temptation – and even more, for letting me eat one, too.” (Fan Fare, p. 42)

February 22-24

March 1-3

March 5-10

fabulousfox.com/subscribe 314-535-1700 • fox box office

*See website for details and content advisories. Shows, dates & times subject to change.

Season tickets are non-refundable.

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

7

STL

WESTPORT PLAZA IS ST. LOUIS’ SUMMER HOT SPOT

7/17/31

TomaTo explosion Sun., July 1 to Tue., July 31; locations vary across St. Louis metro-area restaurants; 314.325.1293; eatfeedstl.com

Now in its eighth year, Tomato Explosion is a celebration of St. Louis-area restaurants coming together to fight hunger through Operation Food Search, a local leader in hunger relief. Throughout the entire month of July, more than 70 participating restaurants will serve specially themed tomato menu items, and a portion of the proceeds from each dish sold will help Operation Food Search provide nutritious meals and educational programming to kids during the summer months. See the full list of restaurants and dishes online.

BACKSTREET JAZZ & BLUES DINO’S DELI DRUNKEN FISH FUNNY BONE COMEDY CLUB FUZZY’S TACO SHOP GATEWAY NEWSTANDS HATS-N-STUFF IMOS PIZZA JIVE & WAIL

STL

7/20

KOBE JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE MCDONALD’S

Feast tV TasTe & see: Go easT Fri., July 20, 7pm; $15; Public Media Commons, 3653 Olive St., Covenant Blu/Grand Center, St. Louis; feastmagazine.com/events

Host Cat Neville brings you vibrant flavors from China, Korea, Japan and Vietnam. Dumplings, soups, noodle dishes and stir-fries star at this midsummer event, where the vibrant flavors of east and south Asia will be on display. The event kicks off with live music and will feature segments from Feast TV on two-story screens, interviews with local chefs and live cooking demos.

PAUL MINEO’S TRATTORIA PLAYHOUSE @ WESTPORT PLAZA SHERATON AT WESTPORT SMOOTHIE KING SAINT LOUIS BREAD COMPANY STARBUCKS TRAINWRECK SALOON WESTPORT SOCIAL

KC

WESTPORT PLAZA PRESENTS

PARTIES ON THE PLAZA THURSDAY, JULY 19 Sponsored by Bud Select LIVE MUSIC FROM DANCE FLOOR RIOT

Intersection of I-270 and Page Avenue St. Louis, MO 314-576-7100 { westportstl.com }

8

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

7/21

The Cider house Farm-To-Table dinner Sat., July 21, 6 to 9pm; $69 to $87; The Cider House, 28708 S. State Highway 7, Garden City, Missouri; 816.925.0884; facebook.com/events/1909960419074727

Just 40 minutes south of Kansas City, The Cider House is hosting a farm-to-table dinner, where chef Sophia Chatfield will prepare a five-course meal using fresh, seasonal ingredients sourced within 100 miles of the orchard in Garden City, Missouri. The night will also feature live music by local artists, a walk around the farm and a wine tasting from Aubrey Vineyards. A portion of each ticket will support a local cause.

STL

7/25

�� � �

schnucks cooks: Beer-Braised sausage, onion and PePPer sandwiches Wed., July 25, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, St. Louis; 314.909.1704; nourish.schnucks.com/schnucks-cooking-school

In this class, you’ll learn how to upgrade a summer staple, potato salad, with roasted poblano peppers. We’ll also take advantage of peach season in style with white peach sangria.

STL

7/278/4

2018 st. louis craFt Beer week Fri., July 27 to Sat., Aug. 4; times, prices and locations vary across St. Louis metro area; stlbeerweek.com

There’s no better time to be a beer drinker in St. Louis than right now. St. Louis Craft Beer Week (#STLCBW) is a celebration of all things craft beer in our humble city. Now up to 130 events across the St. Louis metro area, the tenth year of STLCBW is poised to be bigger and better than ever. Start planning your schedule now at stlbeerweek.com or by downloading the STLCBW app.

� �

�

��� �

� ��

WASHINGTON

TOWN & COUNTRY FAIR R

BREWFEST & WING-DING STL

8/11

Blues Funk Festival Sat., Aug. 11, 6 to 10:30pm; free; main stage at West City Park, 2232-2292 Old State Highway A, Festus, Missouri; 636.937.6646; cityoffestus.org

The eighth-annual Blues Funk Festival is a free, family-friendly musical event with St. Louis artists Torey Casey and the Southside Hustle at 6pm and Marquise Knox headlining at 8:30pm. Enjoy a free photo booth and bubble bus for the kids, as well as food and drink for purchase. The Blues Funk Festival is sponsored by Friends of the Festus Parks and the Festus Tourism Commission.

Sunday, August 5 12:00-4:00 p.m.

2018 Concert Line-up:

Wed., Aug. 1 - Josh Wilson Thur., Aug. 2 - Walker Hayes Fri., Aug. 3 - Chris Knight, Jason Boland & The Stragglers, Whiskey Myers Sat., Aug. 4 - Jake Owen w/ Chris Janson, Jordan Davis Sun., Aug. 5 - Sawyer Brown

www.

washmofair .com Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

9

this month on

feastmagazine.com the feed

sPecial giveaway

PhotograPhy by landon VondErSChMidt

We’re giving away a pack of four ViP tickets to the 2018 South East Craft beer Fest on Sat., aug. 25 in Columbia, Missouri. Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.

Kc At long last, The Golden Ox has returned to Kansas City’s Stockyards District. The steakhouse feels both nostalgic and novel, featuring the original black leather-tufted booths and nine steaks cut and aged in house.

-

St. Louis is now home to its very first steamed bun-themed restaurant. The Bao opened in Clayton this spring, serving light, fluffy bao in dishes ranging from beignet bao to avocado toast to a St. Paul sandwich.

PhotograPhy by ana Elliott

courtesy of Boulevard Brewing co.

PhotograPhy by MabEl SuEn

Summer beer festival season is in full swing.

Check The Feed for details on must-try Kansas City beer festivals and mark your calendar to explore ales, stouts, IPAs and other beer styles.

10

Big changes are coming to Springfield, Missouri, favorite Farmers Gastropub. The British-style tavern is undergoing an exterior renovation and launching a new menu, featuring dishes like smoked ham-hock ramen (pictured above). feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

summer sippin’ on

GIN & JUICEd

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

11

episode:

good eggs ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Mondays at 9:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Saturdays at 5:30pm and Sundays at 7:30am.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Saturdays at 10am.

The incredible, edible egg: They’re key players in everything from brioche to Hollandaise sauce to meatloaf.

In the Good Eggs episode, host Cat Neville explores the ubiquitous egg and begins her journey at Blue Heron Farm near Springfield, Missouri, where James Boosey gathers eggs from chickens, ducks and geese. Cat’s next stop is at Yolklore in the St. Louis area, where they cook up creative egg-centric breakfasts that keep loyal clientele coming back for more, and finally, at Shio Ramen in Kansas City, she learns the too-simple-tobe-true method of cooking soft eggs necessary for perfect ramen. Back in the kitchen, Cat shows you how to make an easy miso ramen starring those luxurious, runny eggs.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Mondays at 12:30pm.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

12

feastmagazine.com

Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

Kaldi’s Coffee is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.

Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.

july 2 0 1 8

Feast TV’s new season will air in the Springfield region on Ozarks Public Television.

Check your local listings for airdates.

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

Steelville, Missouri

PROMOTION

home of hospitality

huzzah vallEy rESOrt

wildwOOd SpringS lOdgE Spring EvEntS CalEndar 9.28 • arianna String Quartet

BECauSE liFE iS BEttEr arOund a CaMpFirE

10.6 • pure prairie league

•

Floating

10.13 • Blue Oyster Cult

•

Camping

10.20 • pablo Cruise

•

Lodging

•

Horseback Riding

•

and More

10.26 & 10.27 • poco 50th anniversary 11.2 & 11.3 • Ozark Mountain daredevil 573.775.2400 / wildwoodspringslodge.com

BaSS rivEr rESOrt COurtOiS, huzzah & MEraMEC rivErS •

Cabins

•

Camping

•

RV Sites

•

River Trips

•

Horseback Riding

•

On site Breakfast & BBQ

•

And More!

1.800.392.3700 / bassresort.com

MEraMEC MuSiC thEatrE 2018 ShOw SChEdulE 6.23 • triumphant Quartet: 6pm

langE gEnEral StOrE

6.30 • Martin Family Circus: 2pm 7.7 • Booth Brothers: 6pm 7.28 • Janie Fricke & Moe Bandy: 7pm

takE a trip dOwn MEMOry lanE

8.18 • the hoppers: 6pm

Old-Fashioned Service with a Smile

turtlE Earth

9.15 • lefevre Quartet: 6pm

Country Curtains, Quilts & Home Decor Huzzahvalley.com

FinE art gallEry & lOCal, OrganiC hErBS

SOda FOuntain

1930’S FarM-tO-taBlE dinEr, iCE CrEaM parlOr & MuSiC vEnuE 2018 COnCErt SEriES

573.259.4820 facebook.com/turleearth

pEaCEFul BEnd vinEyard

winEry • BrEwEry • EatEry • • • • • • •

Vineyard Brewery Eatery Wine Garden Hiking Trails Live Music And More!

573.775.3111 / langegeneralstore.com

10.13 • Sandi patty: 7pm 10.20 • Bill anderson: 7pm 10.27 • the isaacs: 6pm 10.28 • dailey & vincent: 2pm 11.3 • John anderson: 7pm

7/28 • Seldom Scene

11.10 • “Celebrate america” patriotic

11/17 • Brewer & Shipley

Show with the lesters & Chosen

573.775.2800 / thesodafountain.us

COBBlEStOnE lOdgE

hOME OF thE All-InclusIve FaMily vaCatiOn included in price!

Ones: 2pm 11.17 • greater vision, Mark trammell Quartet, Second-half Quartet with pat Barker: 6pm 12.8&12.9 • Christmas in the Country: 2pm 12.16 • dailey & vincent Christmas

•

All Float Trips

•

3 Meals Daily

•

Private Cabin

hours: Thursday - Monday 11am-6pm

•

All Entertainment

573.775.3000 / peacefulbend.com For events & updates, follow us on

•

All Facilities

Show: 2pm

573.775.2939 / cobblestonelodge.com

individual COnCErt & COnCErt SEriES tiCkEtS On SalE nOw 573.775.5999 meramecmusictheatre.com

exploresteelville.com Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

13

� �

14

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

little italy

Chef Anthony Devoti pays tribute to his Italian roots at J. Devoti Trattoria on The Hill, St. Louis' historic Italian-American neighborhood, on p. 18. photography by mabel suen

Tribe STreeT kiTchen KANSAS CITY. among the smattering of international

surprising

soft serve Ice cream doesn’t always have to be so, well, vanilla. Soft serve, which is creamier and less dense than traditional ice cream with a lower milk-fat content, reminds us of childhood summers and sugar cones.

Local restaurants are giving soft-serve ice cream a grown-up twist with unexpected savory and sweet flavors to keep you cool this summer.

Written by Lauren Smith

|

PhotograPhy by amy Schromm

eats at Tribe Street Kitchen in Kansas city’s river market neighborhood is soft-serve ice cream. inspired by the flavors of the global street foods tribe serves, executive chef Lance gipson creates new flavors based on necessity, meaning there’s always something new to try. “typically, we do a catch-all of the extra produce and food we have in stock,” he says. “if we do something special for the menu, or have extra fruit from the day, we’ll come up with a new flavor using that. We also use things from the bar: if we have extra mojito ingredients, we’ll make a mojito soft serve.” gipson also serves the cool treat in a freshly pressed waffle bowl. “yesterday we had peach-ginger, tomorrow we’ll do a dulce de leche and next week we’ll have starfruit,” he says.

316 Delaware St., Kansas City, Missouri, tribekc.com

Luckyberry LAWRENCE, KS. at Luckyberry in Lawrence, Kansas, co-owner Shantel grace puts in the extra effort to create soft-serve ice creams using local, all-natural and seasonal ingredients. “it’s a challenge because the soft-serve machines are really meant for pre-packaged ice cream mixes with gums and binders,” she says. “When you’re working with all-natural ingredients, you have to ensure that your sugar and fat ratios are correct and that there’s not too much water in your ingredients, etc. everything has to be scientifically accurate.” the team at Luckyberry found that hildebrand Farms milk from Junction city, Kansas, and half Day creamery yogurt from topeka works best. grace is also committed to providing a number of non-dairy choices as well. “We’ve done some that are tofu-based, like our toasted-sesame ice cream; some of my favorites are ones where we use our cold-pressed juices. We use nuts, like raw almonds for the fat, and coconut wheat.” grace likes to keep her ice creams simple and sticks to five ingredients or less; past flavors include activated charcoal and locally grown beet and rhubarb. this summer, look for blackberry-lavender-sage, sweet corn, ginger-peach, beet and strawberry-rhubarb from pastry chef alison berger.

845 Massachusetts St., Lawrence, Kansas, luckyberry.com Adzuki bean-daifuku and smoked chile-chocolate

nudo houSe CREvE CoEuR, mo. although Nudo House in creve coeur is known for its impeccable ramen, executive chef marie-anne Velasco creates silky ice cream in flavors with an asian twist. “i like to do tropical or asian flavors that you would see on the streets of tokyo, thailand or the Philippines,” she says. “that’s why you’ll find ube [purple sweet potato], pandan [a tropical plant often used in rice pudding] and mango. i like to use fruits that i love to eat when i’m in asia, [and] different flavors that people aren’t used to [here] like soursop [a creamy tropical fruit], thai iced tea and Vietnamese coffee.” this summer, look for new soft serve options including hibiscus, tea blends and caffeinated ice creams. Velasco likes to have at least one vegan or vegetarian ice cream on the menu for her loyal lactose-intolerant customers, as well. “When we were traveling to research ramen, there would always be a frozen yogurt [place] next to the shop,” she explains. “the cool, sweet ice cream is the perfect complement to hot, salty broth.”

11423 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, Missouri, nudohousestl.com

16

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

on

ne

n eo o

q&a

jeff spencer chef-owner, just jeff’s Written By Jessica Vaughn

|

PhotograPhy By shane ePPing

columbia, mo. Jeff spencer has a well-trained team to help run his recently expanded restaurant, Just Jeff’s, in the Parkade Plaza in columbia, Missouri.

But you’ll still find him in the thick of it, taking orders, running food out to customers and chatting with regulars. “i get to be the best part of everybody’s day,” he says. “When someone comes back after eating and says ‘oh, it was so good,’ it’s a really cool feeling.” spencer began selling chicago-style dogs and burgers from a hot-dog cart on the university of Missouri’s campus five years ago, and now operates out of a brick-and-mortar drive-thru and walk-up location, with an expanded menu and catering.

How did you get into cooking? i love to cook for friends at the house, and i always had a dream of retiring in a restaurant. at about 45 years old, i wanted to make a change in my life, and so i bought a hot-dog cart. i was going to do it part time, but once i did and went back to work a few days later i thought, “you know what? if i’m going to do it, i’m going to go full time.” so i gave my two weeks to my job and pushed my hot-dog cart out on campus five years ago, and never looked back. You’re known for Chicago-style dogs, but you recently added a rib-eye sandwich. We serve ‘em with grilled peppers, onions and cream cheese. it’s a delicious sandwich that i’ve been making at my house for years, and i just never thought it had the potential to [be] put on my menu. When we reopened after our christmas break this year, i thought, “i’m just going to try it.”

it’s a hard sandwich to keep in the price range, because rib eyes are not cheap. but we struck a deal with moser’s [Grocery in mexico, missouri], and they cut 40 fresh for us probably every other day. That’s what i eat at the end of the day if we don’t run out. How did

you develop your burger recipe?

When i was a kid, my father used to own the Boonville Livestock auction. there was an older lady who worked in the restaurant there, and anytime something incidental would happen to a cow, my dad would take it to the locker and have it ground up into hamburger. once people found out they’d get a free cheeseburger if they’d come out to the sale barn, the place would just fill up. i remember the way the lady cooked ‘em, and when i bought that hot-dog cart, it had a flat top on it. i got out some ground beef and mixed up a bunch of seasonings, and i just kept doing it, and i’m like, wait a minute now, these are getting good! What’s next for Just Jeff’s? We’re going to create a covered patio from one end of the kitchen to the other, and it’ll be wired for ceiling fans and lights. [recently] i took silver in a local magazine’s food truck category contest, and i don’t [even] own a food truck. But that’s what the customers are telling me they want, and i think that’s what i want to do.

701 Business Loop 70 W, Columbia, Missouri, facebook.com/justjeffscomo

Your Seafood Favorites Right on Route 66

817 Pine Street • Rolla, Missouri (573) 426-6699 • Naclh2orolla.com

NaCl+H2O

“Premium quality produce and specialty products from around the world and around the corner” Sunfarm Food Service • Saint Louis, MO • 314.241.1288 • sunfarmfs.com Download our app by searching ‘sunfarm’ in your app store

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

17

where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

The BackloT aT alamo DrafThouse Story and photography by ana Elliott

SPRINGFIELD, MO. gone are the days when movie snacks meant a simple popcorn and soda. at the Springfield, Missouri, location of the alamo drafthouse movie theater, The Backlot serves up a nine-page menu full of entrées, snacks, all-day brunch, boozy shakes and even a vegan menu. Springfield’s drafthouse is the largest of the theater’s 41 locations, with 14 screens and 48 beers on draft – the vast majority of which are local craft brews. go for a movie, and stay to check out the vibe: the backlot manages to feel both retro and futuristic, with interiors inspired by 2001: A Space Odyssey. and while the homage is retro, the food is nothing but fresh. Vegan or not, you're sure to enjoy the crispy buffalo cauliflower, served with vegan ranch and celery. if you’re a meat-lover, try the local hörrmann Meats jalapeño and cheese bratwurst, served with Springfield brewing Co. greene ghost sauerkraut and beer mustard.

4005 South Ave., Springfield, Missouri, alamobacklot.com

J. DevoTi TraTToria Story and photography by MabEl SuEn

ST. LOUIS. a longstanding farm-to-table restaurant recently retooled its concept on the hill in St. louis. in april, chef-owner anthony devoti debuted J. Devoti Trattoria in place of Five bistro, cooking up modern, farm-to-table italian. you’ll still find a few Five bistro favorites on the menu, including the beloved burger with ground beef, lamb and pork, ludwig Creamery Sangamon double-cream cheese, pork belly, a fried egg, greens and pickles. like Five, J. devoti trattoria’s dinner menu will change regularly based on the availability of fresh, local ingredients. a sourdough wheat pizza base, for instance, might come with toppings such as baetje Farms goat cheese, olives, nettles and chile flakes; housemade ravioli is stuffed with local cheese and topped with J.t. gelineau pea shoots and Missouri pecans. to complement the farm-focused fare, choose from seasonal cocktails, craft beers and small-production wines.

5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, jdevoti.com

The resTauranT aT 1900 WrittEn by JEnny VErgara

|

photography by anna pEtroW

MISSION wOODS, kS. The Restaurant at 1900 opened in Mission Woods, Kansas, in april with a brand-new restaurant, bar and private dining room. the sleek space is located inside the 1900 building, a renovated 1967 Modernist architectural gem that now includes multiple performance and event spaces, gallery space and offices. the dream team pulled together by Steven Karbank, chairman of Karbank real Estate Co., to run the restaurant includes executive chef linda duerr, general manager Keith goldman and beverage director doug Frost. duerr’s modern american menu features light, seasonal dishes and ideal portions. Seafood dishes like the narragansett bay lobster salad roll and tempura soft-shell crabs in adobo-butter broth are summer must-trys. the selection of handmade pastas prove that pasta doesn’t have to be heavy, like the casarecce with farm-greens pesto. pastry chef Elizabeth paradise also shows off the seasons with desserts including a lemon chiffon layer cake, a sorbet trio and a chocolate-caramel tart. if you prefer to end your meal on a lighter note, ask your bartender for a seasonal strawberry egg cream, and sip it like you’re sitting at a soda fountain.

1900 Shawnee Mission Pkwy, Mission Woods, Kansas, therestaurantat1900.com

18

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

Kurzweils Country Meats Written by Jenny Vergara

|

photography by angela bond

HARRISONVILLE, MO. after a devastating building fire in the fall of 2016 closed the original location of Kurzweils Country Meats in Kansas City, the Kurzweil family relocated their popular meat counter and restaurant to harrisonville, Missouri. the shop was founded by three brothers in 1995, who grew up working their family's row-crop farm. eventually, they decided to diversify and add hogs to the mix. looking for a place to sell their pork, they opened their own meat market, which led to a restaurant. Known as the home of the famous smoked pork chops, Kurzweils sells about 1,000 pounds each week at the meat counter, in addition to fresh and smoked deli meats – including more than 35 different award-winning sausages.

Chris Kurzweil, the son of Jim Kurzweil, one of the three brothers, has become best-known for his flavored bratwursts; favorites include the burnt-end brat, chili cheese, and the pepper-Jack polish. this summer, savor seasonal flavors like habanero-peach, caramelized pear-gorgonzola and applewurst. don’t miss Kurzweils' line of housemade sauces and canned goods.

2817 Cantrell Road, Harrisonville, Missouri, kurzweilscountrymeats.com

n a rt i sa ct produ

craft beer jerky

Written by Jenny Vergara

KANSAS CITY. When former food-truck owner Chase Schaffter met local brewer danny Kueser, they got to talking about their love for craft beer and quality meat. they were both big fans of beef jerky, but found the flavors uninspired, so they created Craft Beer Jerky, made with regional beers, like Cinder block brewery's pavers porter and 4 hands brewing Co.'s divided Sky rye ipa. order Craft beer Jerky online or purchase in select liquor stores and breweries in the Kansas City area.

craftbeerjerky.com photo by Kelly glueCK

CELEBRATING KANSAS CIT Y AND GOOD OLD FASHIONED MIDWEST COOKING

Mo n d a y -Fr i d a y S e r v i n g : Br e a k f a s t 7 -1 1 a m Lu n c h 1 1 a m -3 p m Ha p p y Ho u r 3 - 6 p m Di n n e r b e g i n n i n g a t 5 p m n i g h t l y Sa t u r d a y & Su n d a y Br u n c h 9 : 3 0 a m -3 p m No w Bo o k i n g Pr i v a t e Di n i n g & Ca t e r i n g e v e n t s @ r y e kc . c o m Or d e r To - Go , Wh o l e Pi e s , & Ba ke s h o p Sp e c i a l t i e s 4646 J C Nichols Pkwy Kansas City, MO (816) 541-3382 www.r yekc.com Complementar y Garage Parking or Valet Optional

*Visit our original location Rye Leawood at 10551 Mission Rd. Leawood, KS 66206 (913) 642-5800 Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

19

on

ne

n eo o

ryan brazeal & jessica armstrong chef-owners, novel WRITTEN BY ApRIl FlEMINg

q&A

|

pHOTOgRApHY BY zACH BAuMAN

KANSAS CITY. In just 18 days, husband-and-wife

team Ryan Brazeal and Jessica Armstrong relocated their five-year-old, award-winning Kansas City restaurant, Novel, a mile east from its iconic century-old shirtwaist on the hill to a modern, brand-new location in the burgeoning East Crossroads neighborhood. As it turns out, they didn’t so much move their restaurant as open a new one, with a few classic dishes held over to remind guests of their past efforts. The change has permitted the couple to greatly expand their menu, broaden the restaurant’s appeal and bring a renewed passion into their work.

How did you feel after your last service at the old house? It was anticlimactic. You build it up in your head, and it was just another Saturday night. When we were done, we were exhausted. Then we closed the doors. –Ryan Brazeal Then we came back Monday to pack. –Jessica Armstrong We knew the transition had to be fast so that we could retain our staff, so we did everything we could to shut down and start working toward the future. The house had so much character and charm, and it put us on the map. But from an operator’s standpoint, it’s not something I’m going to feel a lot of nostalgia for now that we have working mechanicals and there are no buckets catching rainwater. –R.B. How’s the new kitchen? Amazing.

You’ve got the elbow room and the level floors, the hood works. It just feels so much more efficient and streamlined.

–R.B. How did you develop the new menu? I’ve been working on the spring menu since last November. I had all the dishes formatted, and we were doing recipe testing and development at the old restaurant. Since we had the same staff, it was basically just executing on a larger scale what we had been testing for months. –R.B. Jessica, how does it feel to have a bigger on-site presence at the new restaurant? Here [at the new restaurant], I’m here all night. I plate all the desserts. The desserts are coming out great; I planned the menu over a year ago. I got all new plates, too! –J.A. What dishes are you most excited about? All of them! The pastas – it was

something we weren’t able to do before and have long wanted to do. They’re a definite crowd pleaser, and something we make from scratch every day.

Cavatelli, sheep’s milk cheese, lamb sausage, fava beans and mint

We’re so proud of those. The rest of it is seeing this menu you had conceived [years ago] through more grown-up eyes and more focus being executed in the way you’d envisioned it. It fits the space, fits the environment, and I think it’s what customers are looking for these days. –R.B. What has the reception been like? Overwhelmingly positive.

There are some people who enjoyed the intimacy and romance of the old location, but this is a new restaurant.

While it’s still Jessica and me, we didn’t set out to replicate the Victorian house on the hill. We wanted to build something different, and to start over again. Overall, people have really gotten behind us. –R.B. 1927 McGee St., Kansas City, Missouri, novelkc.com

20

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

[

Mad aBoUt MelonS

cantaloupe

There’s a lot of history and geography packed into this pastel-colored pleasure: Though the melon itself probably came from India, the word “cantaloupe” is a French derivation of a town located in central Italy. It is also known as muskmelon, rockmelon (Australia) and spanspek (South Africa), and today it’s one of the most popular melons in the United States. Besides imparting a sweet, floral taste, cantaloupes are excellent sources of potassium and vitamins A and C, and some research suggests they also have anti-inflammatory properties. Wrap cantaloupe in prosciutto for a simple but elegant appetizer.

in Good with

Why melons make the perfect midsummer treat With hank dart,

senior health communications leader in prevention and control the Siteman Cancer Center

Melons seem like they’ve been perfectly engineered for summertime. Light and refreshing, they are right at home on the breakfast table or packed in the cooler for a poolside snack. “Melons are low in calories, filling and a natural source of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants.

They make a great part of an overall healthy diet,” says Hank Dart, who works in prevention and control for Siteman Cancer Center at Barnes-Jewish Hospital and Washington University School of Medicine.

One reason melons are so revitalizing is because of their sky-high water content: Many are about 90 percent H2O. Living up to its name, watermelons’ percentage is even higher. That’s especially important on scorching hot days when maintaining a steady intake of water is crucial to combating dehydration, which can lead to headaches, fatigue, fainting or worse.

“We mostly think about beverages when it comes to hydration, but the water we get from food also counts toward that — though it isn’t quite as easy to quantify or consume as drinking a glass of water,” Dart says. “It’s part of why we like melons so much during the summer.”

Even with their abundance of water, these fruits are also full of flavor and nutrients. The exact nutritional breakdown varies a bit from melon to melon, but in general, all are great sources of potassium, vitamin C and fiber. They also contain sugar — but that’s not a

bad thing. “The sugar found in fruit isn’t like drinking a can of soda,” Dart says. “You also get fiber, vitamins and minerals, along with the fruit sugars. That’s why we promote whole fruit rather than fruit juice, because it retains the fiber. Plus, whole fruit is much more filling.”

Melons of all kinds are at their peak right now, so July is the perfect month to try something new. Crenshaw melons bring some spice, casaba melons taste like cucumbers, and sprite melons are sweet as sugar.

Buying a melon can be daunting, though: They can weigh 10 pounds or more, and it takes some work to cut through the rind. Regardless of the type, there are a few things to look for to ensure you’re picking out a ripe one. The best of the bunch will be fragrant and heavy for their size with skin that is free of cracks or bruises.

And tapping a watermelon with your palm really does help determine its ripeness: Listen for a hollow sound.

Grilling thick slices of watermelon on the barbecue caramelizes the natural sugar and infuses the fruit with a great smoky flavor.

“When it comes to what we eat, a largely plant-based diet that focuses on fruits, vegetables and whole grains is best. Melons — with their eye-catching colors and great taste — make easy, healthy additions to summer menus that our friends and family are likely to love as much as we do,” Dart says.

Mojito Melon Salad Yields | 6 servings

1 1 1 1 1 1 3 2 3

]

cup cubed, seeded watermelon cup cubed cantaloupe cup cubed honeydew melon cup hulled, quartered strawberries cup seedless grapes cup blueberries tablespoons lime juice teaspoons white sugar sprigs fresh mint

| preparation | Cut the watermelon into bite-size chunks and remove seeds. Cube the cantaloupe and honeydew, then quarter the strawberries. Mix together the melons, strawberries and grapes. Top with blueberries. In a small bowl, stir together the lime juice, sugar and mint. Using the back of a spoon, crush the mint to bring out the flavor. Pour mixture over the fruit and cover.

Refrigerate at least one hour and stir before serving. Coat fruit with lime juice mix.

crenshaW “Sweet” and “round” are two words that are closely associated with melons, but crenshaws could also accurately be described as “spicy” and “pointy.” With casaba and Persian melons as their parent plants, these hybrids are similar in shape and color to lemons, but they can weigh in at 10 pounds or more. Crenshaws’ spicy undertones and lush interior promises to perk up any fruit tray and add a little glamour too: This heirloom variety is known as the Cadillac of melons. It’s also a fine source of vitamins A and C.

honeydeW Spare a thought for the long-suffering honeydew: the brushed-off buffet offering, the punch line of the melon family. The United States Department of Agriculture reports that cantaloupes outsell honeydews at a rate of five to one, even though the former is far more expensive. Under-ripe and over-ripe honeydews are most likely to blame for their poor reputation, but mid-summer finds them at their peak and poised for redemption. The best ones are more yellow than green, heavy for their size and have a pronounced floral scent. Now is the time to give this underdog another try.

santa claus Though it looks like a watermelon in miniature, Santa Claus melons are more comparable to honeydews.

Or toads, if you take a cue from its Spanish name — piel de sapo — meaning “toad skin,” a nod to its mottled green exterior. Though they originated in Spain, Santa Claus melons are now grown in Central and South America, as well as in Arizona and California. The reference to St. Nick speaks to the melon’s longevity: It can last up to six weeks longer than most other kinds of melons — just about up to the holidays if you were to buy the fruit near the end of its season. The flesh is pale green and firm with a subtly sweet flavor.

Watermelon

Nutritional information: 67 calories, 0g fat, 10mg sodium, 16g carbohydrate, 2g fiber, 1g protein

Over the hundreds of years that watermelons have been grown, the number of variations on the fruit has grown along with it. From seedless (the most common) to square shaped (popular in Japan for taking up less room in refrigerators) to ones with white flesh (Cream of Saskatchewan) to ones with black rinds that sell for hundreds of dollars apiece (Densuke), this summertime staple is enjoyed throughout the world. For a fruit that’s more than 90 percent water, it brings a surprising amount of nutrition.

Tomatoes seem to get all the good press for lycopene — an antioxidant thought to lower the risk of cancer and heart disease — but by some estimates, watermelons Inspired Local Food Culture j u ly 2 018 21 contain up to 40 percent more of it.

22

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

frosĂŠ all day

Relax in style at Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery's new tasting room at Rosehill Gardens in Kansas City on p. 26. photography by anna petrow

drink trucks

Food trucks are everywhere. After chowing down on everything from burgers and dim sum to waffles and burritos, diners are thirsty. As a result, local entrepreneurs are setting up mobile shops specializing not in food, but craft beer, wine and coffee.

Written by natalie GallaGher

|

PhotoGraPhy by anGela bond

the WilD Way kansas city. husband-and-wife team Jon and Christine Clutton recently opened The Wild Way, a mobile coffee truck in Kansas City. Since april, the truck has parked in the el torreon parking lot in the tower east district five days a week, where the Cluttons serve a wide variety of espresso drinks, such as cortados and macchiatos, plus pastries from lawrence, Kansas’ 1900 barker bakery and Cafe. the truck also features a pour-over bar, where four different local roasters are kept in rotation (the usual suspects include thou Mayest Coffee roasters and oddly Correct). try the Purple drank, an iced latte with muddled blueberries, mint and raw honey.

thewildwaycoffee.com

Sarah’S Drink Stop

24

Beer outSiDe

st. louis. This spring, the owners of Sarah’s Cake Shop, who operate a brick-and-mortar in Chesterfield, Missouri, Sarah’s on Central in Eureka and multiple food trucks, debuted a new addition: Sarah’s Drink Stop, a beer-and-wine truck.

Co-owner Jeff Pupillo runs Sarah’s fleet of trucks with his brother, John, and Jill Umbarger. Sarah’s Drink Stop boasts four beer taps and two wine taps. “For beer, we’re trying to stay with our St. Louis favorites,” Pupillo says, including Six Mile Bridge Beer and Perennial Artisan Ales. Sarah’s Drink Stop also carries wine by the bottle in addition to on tap. "Food trucks paved the way for drink trucks,” he says. “I wasn't sure when we first built the truck out if [it] was going to work, but it's proving a good choice.”

st. louis. Tyler Thompson and Luke Oldham have both made the rounds in the St. Louis beer scene, each working at a handful of craft breweries. In the fall of 2017, they debuted Beer Outside, a beer truck meets pop-up beer garden, featuring 20 mostly local brews on tap. “We decided to support the beers that we like from around St. Louis, and since we're doing the pop up in different areas, we can expose people to beers that they might not normally get,” Thompson says. Once a month, Beer Outside parks at Tower Grove Park. “We do our own events a lot, where we usually pair up with a food truck; we've done work happy hours and charity things," he says. "It’s great being out there in the sun and helping people have a good time."

sarahsdrinkstop.com

beeroutside.com

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

On

ne

n eO O

q&A

troy bedik

Stone Hill Winery, the Missouri original since 1847

brewer, the civil life brewing co.; co-chair, pink boots society st. louis Written by nancy StileS

|

PhotograPhy by madiSon SanderS

ST. LOUIS. many of the top craft breweries in St. louis have women behind the tanks, including troy bedik of the civil life brewing co. earlier this year, alongside Johanna Foege of Perennial artisan ales, bedik co-founded the St. louis chapter of the Pink boots Society, a national organization for professional women in brewing. Pink Boots Society St. Louis hosts meetings on the third monday of every other month and always incorporates an educational presentation, such as draft-line troubleshooting or unconventional flavors in beer. through Pink boots, bedik and Foege hope to create a space that provides women in the brewing industry with the skills and support they need to excel and thrive.

How did you first get involved with Pink Boots? i’ve known about them for a few years; they’ve been pretty established in the [national] industry. back in 2016, i won a [Pink boots] scholarship to an online brewing course at the Siebel institute of technology [an acclaimed brewing school in chicago]. a component of winning the scholarship was to give back and show what you learned by giving a presentation, writing a paper or speaking in front of a group. i learned so much about brewing, and i thought about starting a chapter [in St. louis], and around January enough people had come together and there was enough interest to move forward. What do you personally hope to get out of Pink Boots?

My personal goal is to just give the women who are in the St. Louis brewing industry – or just the general beer community – the skills and power to go back to the workplace and be as confident as they can be. i think having a

safe space where you can explore what you know, what you don’t know, having a place to speak to other people, to ask questions and get those answers without feeling judged, without feeling [that] because you’re a woman you don’t want to ask these questions because you don’t want anyone to think less of you by asking them. it just gives you space to get the skills that you need to go back to your place of employment and be better – to crush it and continue to grow professionally. What's your ultimate goal with Pink Boots? i think i will be successful when the first question people want to ask me [isn't], “What’s it like being a lady brewer?” [instead,] people will ask me [first], “how did you design this recipe? how did you come up with this idea for this beer?” getting known for my brewing work and technical skills, rather than for the fact that i’m a woman in the beer industry. and i will always be happy to talk about that, and to address it, but i don’t want it to be the first thing that people see, you know? What advice do you have for women who are new to the industry? the most important thing is putting yourself out there [and] meeting as many people as you can. talk to professional brewers, and definitely start homebrewing. there are some wonderful homebrew clubs in St. louis. the og, which abbey Spencer from third Wheel [brewing co. in St. Peters, missouri,] started, is a great resource for women homebrew clubs. go out and taste as much as you can. once you can unpack why you don’t like something, that’s a really helpful step in being able to speak intelligently about beer. We’ll be at some festivals [this summer] with a table, and we’ll mark our member brewers, so that’ll be a good way to spot a member. i’m sure anyone will be happy to give you a chat and show you what everything’s about – and remind you that being a brewer is just a glorified janitor! facebook.com/pinkbootssocietystl

Kick’n into Summer with Jacquesse A soft easy-drinking rosé with a kick of natural wild berry flavor.

Purc hase a t l o cal retai l ers o r o nl i ne Hermann, MO • 800.909.9463 • stonehillwinery.com Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

25

where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops. tropiCal liqueurS Story anD photography by MabeL Suen

ST. louIS. Tropical Liqueurs, or “trops” to the initiated, recently returned to St. Louis with its signature frozen cocktails. trops has had Missouri outposts in Columbia and Springfield for more than 30 years, unveiling its first franchise in St. Louis nearly three years ago. the Soulard bar closed in 2016, later announcing plans to reopen in the grove with an expanded space and a partnership with guerrilla Street Food. the new orleans-inspired design of the new space features a vacationlike vibe, with colorful murals of tropical birds and ferns. behind the bar, 14 frozen drink machines will rotate a selection of trops’ concoctions, such as the best-selling tiger paw with 151 rum, peach schnapps, pineapple juice and orange juice, as well as the Silver bullet with 190-proof grain alcohol, lemonade and Sprite. new flavors include a frosé and the billiken with huckleberry-flavored vodka.

4104 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 2trops.com

dive Bar Written by nanCy StiLeS photography by Shane epping

ColuMBIA, Mo. When the tiger Club pub & pit closed last summer after more than 20 years of food, cocktails and sand volleyball in Columbia, Missouri, fans like Karen goetz weren't sure what would become of the place. She and her husband had just sent their son off to college – why not try to keep the spirit of the tiger Club alive? after some remodeling, painting and work bringing the pint-sized kitchen up to code, Dive Bar debuted last December. the bar features 13 beers on draft, including local bur oak brewing Co., Logboat brewing Co. and piney river brewing Co. Dive bar also uses spirits from DogMaster Distillery in Columbia in its featured drinks, and the staff is developing a craft-cocktail menu to roll out this summer. Keeping with its Missouri theme, Dive bar offers wines from nearby Les bourgeois Vineyards, and goetz has been visiting wineries in hermann, Missouri, to bring her favorites on board soon. this summer, look for the Summer in the Sand event series, featuring live music on the volleyball pit; guests can bring beach towels and chairs and hang out. there will also be expanded outdoor games including cornhole and ring toss.

1116 Business Loop 70 E., Columbia, Missouri, facebook.com/divebarcomo

26

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

SomerSet ridge Wine & Cider Bar at roSehill gardenS Written by Jenny Vergara

|

photography by anna petroW

KANSAS CITY. Few things are more enjoyable than sitting outside, sipping a chilled glass of wine while listening to live music. it's now possible to add shopping for herbs or picking up some colorful petunias to the list thanks to a collaboration between Somerset ridge Vineyard & Winery in paola, Kansas, and Kansas City’s rosehill gardens Landscape Center.

Winery owners Cindy and Dennis reynolds worked with the nursery for more than a year to create Somerset Ridge Wine & Cider Bar at Rosehill Gardens, featuring a tasting room, cider-production facility and retail shop for their locally made wines and ciders, which you can enjoy while browsing the nursery; grab a bottle or a glass of Somerset’s crisp Chardonel and post up at a table on the garden patio. Somerset’s new Lucky Dog hard apple cider is also on tap, made with apples from the Louisburg Cider Mill in Louisburg, Kansas. on hot summer nights, sample the frozen sangria, made with pure cane sugar, green tea, cranberry extract and Somerset’s aphrodite dry rosé.

311 E. 135th St., Kansas City, Missouri, somersetridge.com

Future Ancestor Story and photography by Mabel Suen

ST. LOUIS. In the Shaw neighborhood of St. louis, Future Ancestor offers a carefully curated selection of vintage furniture and modern housewares. the shop originally debuted on cherokee Street’s antique row in 2014 and moved to its current home in February. the new space is nearly double the size, with plenty of room to display everything from classic home décor to contemporary and handmade gifts. “the mix of new and vintage is what really makes us unique; a lot of stores have just one or the other," says Julia leenig, who co-owns the shop with her husband, brian. the couple recently began offering design services to accompany the ever-changing selection of goods, sourced from both artisans and estate sales.

Visitors will find plenty of options for outfitting their kitchens: choose from accessories such as bar carts, glasses, ceramics, antique cutlery, wooden bowls and more. “We’re expanding into a lot of modern handmade items, and it’s really nice to meet artists and delve more into that," leenig says.

"I think the mix of styles is what makes it a great collection.”

4100 Shenandoah Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, future-ancestor.com

n a rt i sa ct produ

the coffee ethic cold brew

Story and photography by teSSa cooper

SPRINGFIELD, MO. porch sitting, road tripping, camping – wherever summer takes you, now you can sip Springfield, Missouri’s The Coffee Ethic cold brew. grab your 32-ounce cold-brew growler at the coffee shop for $15, and receive a refill for $9. Manager and head roaster nate Murphy says the remedy cold brew, a chocolate-forward, citrusy blend of ethiopian- and columbian-origin coffee, is available year round. the shop also offers nitro cold brew and limited edition, fresh-crop, single-origin cold brews from ethiopia and guatemala.

thecoffeeethic.com Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

27

Cherry Limeade Story, recipe and photography by becky hardin

Cherry Limeade SerVeS | 6 |

3 cups fresh cherries, pitted, plus more for garnish 2 limes, sliced, plus more for garnish ¾ cup fine sugar 6 cups water, divided 1 cup lemon-lime soda ½ cup vodka

the July heat calls for an ice-cold glass of cherry limeade. When i was younger, we would always head to Sonic drive-in after a day spent at the pool; i craved that cherry limeade like nobody’s business! a shared cool drink over laughs with friends was always the perfect end to long summer days. as an adult, i realized that i could make my own cherry limeade. not only was it easy, but it was even more delicious than the fast-food version, which is loaded with sugar. this recipe is fast, simple and oh-so-tasty. homemade cherry limeade is always a total hit at our neighborhood get-togethers; if you want to keep it kid-friendly, just omit the vodka.

Becky Hardin is the recipe developer, photographer and writer behind thecookierookie.com. Her work has been featured on sites such as The Huffington Post, The New York Times and Better Homes and Gardens. Her recipes and photography have been featured in print in publications such as Women's World Magazine, Redbook and Family Circle. She is a self-taught cook who loves to create recipes anyone can make and everyone will love.

| preparation | in the bowl of a blender, combine cherries, limes (including peels) and sugar with 2 cups water. blend until fully combined and smooth.

Strain liquid and pour into a large pitcher; stir in remaining 4 cups water, lemon-lime soda and vodka. Serve over ice and garnish with reserved cherries and limes.

Pro Tip: You can make your own fine sugar by pulsing 1 cup of granulated sugar in a blender for about 30 seconds.

28

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

the grapes used for the 2016 vintage of Baltimore Bend Vineyard’s Chardonel are all sourced from the single acre of Chardonel grown in the winery’s vineyard in waverly, Missouri. Flavors of apple, pear and vanilla lead to a hint of oak and smokiness on the finish. this dry white wine was fermented and aged in French oak barrels, where it rested on the spent yeast; this technique gives the wine a creamy mouthfeel and full body. it also went through malolactic fermentation, a process where harsh malic acid is converted into lactic acid, resulting in a well-balanced and smooth finish. you can find baltimore bend’s Chardonel at select stores across Missouri or at its tasting room, east of Kansas City. baltimorebend.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.

BEER

2nD shift BrewinG Co.’s hiBisCus wit written by ryan niCKelson

sTyle: belgian-style wit with hibiscus flowers (5.2% abV) PaIrIngs: Sushi • White pizza • Lemon-ricotta pancakes

KALDI’S

COFFEE

KALDI’S C O F F E E

Provenance: waverly, Missouri PaIrIngs: Brie fondue • Spinach and walnut salad • Pork chops with apple chutney

KALDI’S C O F F E E

written by Hilary Hedges

KALDI’S C O F F E E

Baltimore BenD VineyarD’s 2016 missouri CharDonel

COFFEE COFFEE COFFEE COFFEE COFFEE COFFEE COFFEE COFFEE KALDI’S C O F F E E

WINE

KALDI’S C O F F E E

on The shelf : july PIcks

at 2nd Shift Brewing Co. in st. louis, owners steve and libby Crider’s mission is “to brew beers that attack your senses like battle bots attack their own.” in the case of Hibiscus wit, the beer hits you with three sensory “attacks”. the first comes when pouring the belgian-style wheat. it’s a cloudy, orangish pink – gorgeous. next is the beer’s aroma, which goes from floral to citrusy to earthy spice. the final attack is the flavor: tart, floral and slightly spicy. My senses have been attacked many times by this beer, and i keep coming back for more. First released in 2011, it's now available in cans.

2ndshiftbrewing.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, a craft beer shop in Clayton, Missouri, with an upcoming location in South City. To learn more, visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.

SPIRIT

Copper run Distillery’s GolD rum written by Jenn tosatto

Provenance: walnut shade, Missouri (40% abV) Try IT: in a rum old Fashioned

when you think of the ozarks, you don’t often think of rum – but maybe you should. Copper Run Distillery in walnut shade, Missouri, sticks to the area’s roots by making this gold rum from blackstrap molasses, a common moonshine ingredient in the Missouri ozarks. For even more local flavor, the distillery uses cream-sherry barrels from stone Hill winery in Hermann. the result is an interesting rum: the blackstrap molasses imbues a powerfully sweet and earthy aroma, and the barrel lends a bit of nuttiness that, while unusual, is quite pleasant. while it works in any classic rum cocktail, it really shines in a simple old Fashioned, especially when you substitute orange bitters for the more traditional angostura.

copperrundistillery.com You can find Jenn Tosatto running the bar at Mission Taco Joint's Kansas City location. She also loves donating her skills to many charity events around the city, as well as working private events.

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

29

30

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

roll model

Upgrade your next backyard cookout with fresh and crunchy summer rolls on p. 32. photography by drew piester

STory and recIPe by amanda ellIoTT PHoTograPHy by drew PIeSTer

Summer rollS with SPiCY diPPing SauCe SerVeS | 10 | spicy dipping sauce

½ ½ ½ 1 5

cup fish sauce cup fresh lime juice cup superfine sugar Tbsp sambal oelek cloves garlic, minced

summer rolls

10 8-inch round rice-paper wrappers 1 red bell pepper, deseeded and thinly sliced 1 carrot, peeled, halved and thinly sliced 1 beet, peeled and grated 1 cucumber, peeled, halved and thinly sliced 1 avocado, halved and thinly sliced 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves 1 cup fresh Thai basil leaves 1 cup fresh mint leaves 8 oz buckwheat soba noodles, cooked ½ cup salted cashews, chopped 1 Tbsp black sesame seeds

| preparation – spicy dipping sauce| In a small bowl, mix all ingredients together until sugar has dissolved. Set aside.

| preparation – summer rolls | Fill a large baking dish with warm water, dip a rice wrapper into water and completely submerge for 30 seconds. Transfer wrapper to a clean, flat work surface and stack a few slices each of bell pepper, carrot, beet, cucumber, avocado, cilantro, Thai basil and mint on the bottom ¹⁄₃ of wrapper.

Top with a small handful of cooked soba noodles and a sprinkle of nuts and black sesame seeds.

Fold bottom of wrapper over filling and roll once to form a cylinder. Fold in both sides of the cylinder tightly to seal roll. continue folding over until roll resembles a burrito shape. repeat until all rice-paper wrappers and filling ingredients have been used. cut rolls in halves or thirds, and serve with dipping sauce. cover with a damp paper towel if not serving immediately.

healthy appetite

Summer rollS

With SPiCY diPPing SauCe I fell in love with spring rolls years ago on a trip to Vietnam; they pack a bounty of flavor in every bite.

Sometimes called salad rolls, spring rolls are served at room temperature – never fried – with a dipping sauce.

Here, I’ve given spring rolls a little twist by using buckwheat soba noodles in place of traditional rice noodles, and adding cashews for extra crunch. Paired with a spicy, zesty Thai-inspired dipping sauce, these summer rolls are perfect for picnics and backyard cookouts.

Amanda Elliott is the chef at Peachtree Catering (peachtreebanquet.com) in Columbia, Missouri, and authors the website Rustic Supper (rusticsupper.com), where she shares recipes centered on the idea of the communal table and embracing the heritage of food through travel. She also hosts a series of pop-up dinners in Columbia called Sunday Suppers.

%PG

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 6

ing Proudly serv y our communit! for 28 years

4024 N. Service Rd., St. Peters Mo, 63376 • (636) 244-2378 • (M-F) 9:00-5:00 • (Sat) 9:00-12:00 www.saintcharlesrestaurantequipment.com

Farmers’ Hour Drink Specials Everyday 2-5PM

presents

Professional Dry Aging System

$2 Off Pub and Tap Wines $3 Select Domestic Bottles $4 Select Draft Beers $5 Select Craft Cocktails $6 Mules ...and half price pub snacks!

Elevate Your Restaurant’s Beef Program •Superior Steaks •Increased Revenues •Lower COGS

2620 S Glenstone Ave, Springfield, MO 65804 (417) 864-6994 farmersgastropub.com

Roland Barkau

MEMORIAL GOLF COURSE

Starting at $3999

- OKAWVILLE, ILLINOIS -

SCAN

Come experience all the beauty of Southern Illinois at Roland Barkau Memorial Golf Course. Situated just 41 miles east of St. Louis, in the small community of Okawville, Illinois our course offers 18 holes of golf, featuring multiple tees to ensure every player a challenging yet enjoyable golf outing.

FOR MORE

INFORMATION

Annual Events Fair & Wheat Festival and Parade

September 14 - 16, 2018

Chili Cook Off

Smart Mobile Applications

October 13, 2018

Country Christmas Stroll, Festival of Trees and Christmas House Tour

December 1 - 2, 2018

Heritage Days

Stay With Us!

618-243-5458

618-243-6525

Okawville Chamber of Commerce

618.243.5694 okawvillecc.com

Protect your investments with real-time data on temperature, humidity and inventory.

Chef Designed

Personal Support

Visual Reports

Cloud Server

Intelligent Sensors

Security

Sales Inquiries: manager@culinaryimportco.com | 314.635.0222

CulinaryImportco.com FREE SHIPPING WITH PROMO CODE: STLMO Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

33

story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

Squid and Summer Vegetable Fritto miSto with old bay aïoli Look for fresh baby-squid tubes and tentacles at seafood or international markets. serves

| 6 to 8 |

old Bay aïoli

1 1 ½ ½ 1½ 5

juice of 2 lemons clove garlic, smashed egg yolk cup grapeseed or vegetable oil cup olive oil tsp Old Bay seasoning Tbsp fresh parsley leaves, roughly chopped, divided

Fritto Misto

1½ 1½ 2 2 1½ 2½ 1 2 2 1 4 3 1 1

canola oil cups all-purpose flour cups cornstarch tsp baking powder tsp paprika tsp kosher salt cups chilled club soda lb baby squid, tubes and tentacles, tubes sliced into ½-inch rings medium leeks, white and light green parts only, quartered lengthwise large red bell peppers, sliced into thin rings medium yellow squash, cut diagonally into ¼-inch rings oz fresh salicornia lemons, sliced into thin rings, divided bunch fresh parsley sprigs small bunch fresh sage leaves salt and freshly ground black pepper

| preparation – old bay aïoli | in the bowl of a food processor, add first 3 ingredients and pulse until smooth. with motor running, slowly stream in oils until mixture has emulsified; stir in old bay and 3 tbsp parsley. refrigerate. | preparation – fritto misto | fill a dutch oven with 4 inches oil; heat to 350°f using a candy thermometer. line a plate with paper towels and set aside. in a large mixing bowl, whisk together next 5 ingredients. add club soda and whisk until just combined. in a separate large mixing bowl, toss remaining ingredients, reserving 5 lemon rings. when oil is hot, dip handfuls of squid-vegetable mixture into batter, letting excess drip off. working in batches, add battered ingredients to oil and fry, 2 to 3 minutes, until golden brown. remove using a spider strainer; transfer to prepared plate.

| to serve | transfer fritto misto to a platter with a bowl of aïoli; garnish with remaining parsley. squeeze reserved lemon over top; serve warm.

some succulents can do more than just look trendy in hand-painted pottery.

meet: Salicornia Find salicornia online at earthy.com or melissas.com.

What Is It? Salicornia – widely known as “sea beans” – are long, delicate succulents found around seashores, salt marshes and saline lakes. they can grow nearly anywhere, but without salty soil, it’ll be missing much of the characteristic salinity it’s known for. salicornia’s nubby, thin fingers taste like an exotic version of asparagus and wilted spinach, straddling the line between tender and crunchy. if there's a vegetable out there that embodies sun-soaked late afternoons on the beach more than sea beans, i’ve yet to come across it.

What do I do WIth It? always cook it – raw salicornia is bracingly saline – albeit briefly. blanching it dials the saltiness down to enjoyable levels: just a minute or two in boiling water followed by the quick shock of an ice bath and you’re ready to go. i love it blanched with a drizzle of olive oil, squeeze of lemon and some chile flakes, a perfect side dish for grilled salmon, sautéed scallops or crab cakes. you can also fry, pickle or stir-fry them; toss the gorgeous green “beans” in a garlic-sesame sauce served over rice. summer isn’t officially fritto misto season, but it should be: you could do worse than crispy battered shards of summer vegetables and seafood scattered across your table. the battered and fried thin lemon slices might seem unusual, but don’t skip them: peel and all, they’re delicious. if you're longing for the seashore, this recipe will transport you there instantly.

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as Bon Appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.

s2s bagels

Farm-to-Table

Dinners 5 course chef prepared meal | Local farm ingredients | Wine pairings | Music

Dinner Dates: July 21, Sept. 15, Oct. 20, Nov. 10 More Info at www.theciderhouseevents.com

Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks!

106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 • clevelandheath.com 11:00-close, Sat Mon–ThuMon-Fri 11am–10pm, Fri10:00-close 11am–11pm, Offering Saturday brunch • First Come - First Serve (No reservations) Sat 10am–11pm, Sun 10am-8pm We Do Not Take Reservations

First Come - First Serve (No reservations)

Serving Brunch Saturday & Sundays 10am-1pm

New York Style Bagels “Perfected in Kansas” Seeds 2 Sides Hand Rolled Water Boiled Hand Seeded

Order On Line : s2sbagels.com Cinnamon Raisin Cranberry Cheese

Baking Fridays & Saturdays Free Delivery to OP & Leawood KS Stilwell, Kansas s2sbagels@icloud.com

YOUR SOURCE FOR THE FINEST

• Maine Lobsters • Jumbo Lump Crabmeat • Dry-Packed Scallops • Jumbo Shrimp • Smoked Salmon • Wide Selection of Oysters & Fish

314.993.4844

8660 OLIVE IN U CITY

FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! bobsseafoodstl.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

35

story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

Beer-Braised sausage, OniOn and PePPer sandwiches Any lager-style beer with work well in this recipe. Look for jars of deli-sliced hot cherry peppers near the olives and giardiniera in your local grocery store. serves | 4 to 6 |

16 oz lager-style beer 8 hot or sweet Italian sausages or bratwurst 2 Tbsp vegetable oil 4 green bell peppers, seeded and julienned salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 red onion, thinly sliced 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 3 deli-style hot cherry peppers, seeded and diced 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened 6 hoagie rolls, sliced in half 6 thick-cut slices Fontina cheese

| preparation | in a stockpot with a lid over high heat, add beer and sausages or bratwurst. bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium, cover and cook for 8 minutes. remove lid; remove from heat and keep sausages or bratwurst in beer braising liquid. heat a large, deep and heavy-bottomed skillet with a lid over high heat. once hot, add oil, green peppers and a large pinch of salt; sauté, quickly stirring and flipping peppers, 2 minutes. add onions and a pinch of salt and cook 2 minutes more, stirring constantly. reduce heat to medium and add garlic and cherry peppers. stir and sauté until garlic releases its fragrance, about 1 minute. add beer-braised sausages or bratwurst to onion-pepper mixture and pierce lightly. add ¼ cup reserved beer braising liquid from stockpot to skillet and bring to a boil; cover. reduce heat to low and let simmer for 10 minutes. add salt and pepper to taste. remove from heat to slightly cool. set oven to broil. spread softened butter over halved hoagie rolls and transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet. toast rolls in oven until golden brown. remove tops of rolls from broiler. place a slice of fontina on bottoms of rolls and return to oven until cheese begins to melt. remove from oven and tent rolls with aluminum foil to keep warm.

| to serve | once sausages or bratwurst are cool enough to handle, place inside rolls and top with sautéed onions and peppers. serve warm.

In this class, you’ll learn how to update a summer staple, potato salad, with roasted poblano peppers. We’ll also take advantage of peach season in style with white peach sangria.

quick fix

Beer-Braised sausage, OniOn and PePPer sandwiches if you’re holding out for a hero, this warm italian sausage sandwich should fit the bill. braised in a crisp, clean lager-style beer, the sausage, onion and pepper filling balances rich, sweet and slightly bitter flavors on a toasted hoagie roll. just the right amount of messy, these hearty sandwiches are best eaten over a picnic table with plenty of extra beer – and napkins – on hand.

chef’s tip

the Menu

EAt tHE RAiNBoW. i like to use green bell peppers

• Marinated Tomato and Onion Salad • Roasted Poblano-Potato Salad • Beer-Braised Sausage, onion and Pepper Sandwiches • White Peach Sangria • Lemon Curd Cake

in this dish for their slightly bitter flavor, which is balanced by a mild sweetness from the red onion. if you want to add more color to this dish, include a red or yellow pepper in addition to the green.

get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school at 6pm on Wed., July 25, at the des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RsVP at nourish.schnucks.com/schnucks-cooking-school or call 314.909.1704.

WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Mondays at 9:30pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Saturdays at 5:30pm and Sundays at 7:30am.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Saturdays at 10am.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Mondays at 12:30pm.

EVERYONE LOVES OUR NEW GOOEY BUTTER CAKE! A hometown favorite just got better!

From taste to texture, you’re going to love our new and improved gooey butter cake baked fresh in store.

Try it today!

Feast TV’s new season will air in the Springfield region on Ozarks Public Television.

Check your local listings for airdates..

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

©2018 Schnucks

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

37

sweet ideas story and recipe by christy augustin photography by jacklyn meyer

ChoColate Shell ICe-Cream toppIng Be sure to use refined coconut oil to avoid imparting the topping with coconut flavor – unless, of course, that’s what you're going for! yields | 1 cup |

1½ cups chocolate chips 3 Tbsp refined coconut oil ice cream (to serve)

| preparation | in a medium saucepan over medium heat or using a double boiler, bring 1 inch of water to a gentle simmer. place a heat-safe bowl over top of pan if not using double boiler (bowl should not touch water). add chocolate chips and coconut oil to melt; stir to combine. once completely melted, remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature. if chocolate seizes up after first use, it can be warmed in the microwave for 15 to 20 seconds. pour topping over your favorite ice cream and serve.

ChoColate Shell ICe-Cream toppIng For something so magical, smucker’s magic shell ice-cream topping couldn’t be easier to recreate at home. just like the kind you buy in a bottle, this melted chocolate and refined coconut oil topping recipe will still be liquid after cooling to room temperature, but when poured over ice cream, it will harden for a delicious crunchy coating. use this basic recipe to make your own take on klondike or dilly bars at home, or chocolate-dipped cones in whatever ice cream flavor your heart desires. my favorite application is in homemade stracciatella ice cream: toward the end of spinning the ice cream in my ice-cream maker, i drizzle in the chocolate shell topping, which turns into tiny slivers of crunchy chocolate. i’ve experimented with this recipe using dark, milk and white chocolates, and they all turned out well.

For something fun and different, try using butterscotch chips.

Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.

Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant A "FEAST" Favorite!

Thank You all Local Area Chefs for Making Us #1 Located in the Meridian Shopping Center at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.

FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGE Tu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Dr. • 314.645.2835 www.MaiLeeSTL.com

We’ll Bring the Q to You Lea arn more about our catering packages at Q39KC.com/catering Contact us for more information: Shannon@Q39KC.com

3 Q39 MIDTOWN 1000 W 39TH ST, KCMO | 816.255.3753 M–TH 11A–10P | F–SAT 11A–11P | SUN 11A–9P

Q39 SOUTH 11051 ANTIOCH RD, OPKS | 913.951.4500 0 M–SAT 11A–10P | SUN 11A–9P

325 S Main St, St CharleS, MO 63301 636-724-3434 Swap

pi

hi

ST LOUIS’ ULTIMATE SPORTS BAR Exceptional Food, Craft Beer & Spirits

Who Said a Sports Bar Can’t Have Amazing Food?

Grilled Shrimp & Crawfish Po’ Boy

B30+ Big HDTVs B3 Great Bars B Free Shuttle to all Home Games B Brunch Every Saturday & Sunday

2001 Menard (Corner of Menard & Allen) In the Heart of Soulard Facebook: fb.me/dukesinsoulard

Duke’s Crab Cakes Benedict

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

39

40

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

| 42 |

fan fare

Move over, peanuts and Cracker Jack: These 11 baseball stadiums prove that parks are seriously upping their concession games.

| 50 |

good to the last hop

Rolling Meadows Farm Brewery grows wheat, hops and more to brew unique and hyper-local craft beer in central Illinois.

| 54 |

camp granita

Beat the heat with frosty, easy-to-assemble granitas in fresh, summery flavors.

| 60 |

get smashed

Find four historic spots to grab a quintessential summer standard: smashed burgers. phoTo oF Mugs up dRIve-In (p. 60) By keITh BoRgMeyeR

Fan fare

WriTTen by rose hansen, heaTher riske, lillian sTone, Jessica e. vaughn and Jenny a. vergara

Move over, peanuts and CraCker JaCk: These 11 baseball sTadiums prove ThaT parks are seriously upping Their concession games.

at these 11 baseball stadiums – where major-, minor-league and college teams play – hometown pride extends beyond the field to the concession stands. refuel to cheer for the home team with a hot dog piled high with beer cheese, pastrami or even mac ‘n’ cheese, or nachos topped with pulled pork, smoked chicken or philly cheesesteak, and then wash it down with a craft beer brewed specifically for the ballpark.

42

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

Hammons Field Team: Springfield Cardinals LocaTion: 955 E. Trafficway St. in Springfield, Missouri capaciTy: 10,486

★ History: Completed in 2004

baked fresh on-site, these chewy cookies combine the best of chocolate and red velvet.

by late Springfield hotel magnate John Q. Hammons, Hammons Field is a downtown landmark. The stadium was built before a minor-league baseball team was secured; eventually, Hammons persuaded the St. Louis Cardinals to purchase a Texas-based baseball franchise to call the field home. The franchise became the Springfield Cardinals, a team that has been delighting local minor-league fans ever since. Since forming in 2005, the Springfield Cardinals – affectionately known as “Baby Birds” by some St. Louis Cardinals fans – have drawn high attendance numbers and claimed an AA Texas League championship in 2012.

v Must-Try Eats: Fans know to have dessert first at Hammons: Specifically, the from-scratch funnel cakes and waffle cones at Cardinals Creamery. Cones and cakes can both be topped with local Hiland Dairy ice cream – in flavors like chocolate, vanilla and mint chip – in addition to whipped cream and chocolate syrup.

Fans seeking savory fare should head to the Redbird Roost on the stadium’s upper level for a heaping all-you-can-eat portion of loaded nachos topped with fresh pico de gallo, jalapeños and nacho cheese sauce. Feeling adventurous? Try the new Flamin’ Hot Cheetos Dog at The Dog House, located near the first-base concourse. The hot dog features a juicy quarter-pound frank smothered in spicy nacho cheese and topped with Flamin’ Hot Cheetos.

u Must-Try Drinks: Springfield’s robust craft-brewery scene is well represented at Hammons Field; guests can choose from local favorites such as White River Brewing Co.’s C-Street Pale Ale, Springfield Brewing Co.’s hoppy Greene Ghost IPA or Lost Signal Brewing Co.’s Smoked Pecan Porter. –Lillian Stone

U.S. Baseball Park TeaM: Drury University Panthers LocaTion: 4400 N. 19th St. in ozark, Missouri capaciTy: 4,000

★

History: Newly renovated U.S. Baseball Park in Ozark, Missouri, is the former home of the Ozark Mountain Ducks, the local minor-league predecessor to the Springfield Cardinals (the AA affiliate of the St. Louis Cardinals major-league club). The facility is now home to the Drury University Panthers baseball team, an NCAA Division II team that’s groomed pro athletes – most recently, Miami Marlins pitcher Trevor Richards, who graduated from Drury in 2015.

u Must-Try Drinks:

The stadium doesn’t carry any local brews, but the concession stand does promise a perfect pour: U.S. Baseball Park is home to a Bottoms Up Beer dispenser, which fills pint glasses from the bottom, removing excess foam. Beers from Budweiser, Michelob, Blue Moon and MillerCoors brands are available.

Liquor and wine are also offered at the Jim Beam Hard Ball Saloon.

milb.com/springfield

drurypanthers.com

PHOTOS BY BRANDON ALMS

PHOTO BY BRANDON ALMS

v Must-Try Eats: The

stadium’s signature treats are black velvet cookies served at Hiland Dairy Scoops ice-cream parlor. Baked fresh on-site, these chewy cookies combine the best of chocolate and red velvet.

They’re a hot commodity during games; the announcer typically alerts the crowd the minute they emerge from the oven.

The stadium’s general concession stand serves towering portions of loaded fries with melted cheese, crumbled bacon and jalapeños. If classic ballpark fare is what you’re after, the stadium also offers burgers, corn-dog bites and hot dogs. –L.S.

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

43

Rent One Park Team: Southern Illinois Miners LocaTion: 1000 Miners Drive in marion, illinois capaciTy: 7,000

★ History: Rent One Park looks a little different than most ballparks – in place of the

classic red brick and green steel found at many stadiums, it features a more contemporary design, including a sleek silver roof that slopes down toward the field. The Southern Illinois Miners, a member of the West Division of the independent Frontier League, played their first game here in May 2007. The team broke a Frontier League regular-season record for single-game attendance just three months later.

v Must-Try Eats: Baseball fans will find ballpark staples like nathan’s hot dogs at Rent One’s Home Plate Stand, but the stadium revamped its concessions two years ago and now features a few more creative options. The Fiesta Stand offers Mexican food and housemade pizzas, the On Deck Stand serves hand-dipped corn dogs and Chicago- and Philly-style hot dogs; the aptly named Sweet Spot Stand is a go-to for summer treats like hand-scooped ice cream, slushies

and Dippin’ Dots. Stop by the flat-top Grill Cart for Italian sausage and the famous salameat sausage, a fixture at Louie’s P&R Italian Deli in Herrin, Illinois. Rent One also offers $1 tacos on

Tuesdays, $1 hot dogs on Wednesdays, $1 beer and soda on Thursdays and $1 popcorn on Saturdays.

u Must-Try Drinks:

nothing beats an ice-cold beer at the ballpark. The Corona Bar

at Rent One Park offers tons of drafts and a picture-perfect view of the game thanks to its prime location right behind home plate. no special ticket is required; the bar is open to all Miners fans.

Frozen Margaritas and build-your-own beer flights are available at the Hot Corner Bar & Grill, and newly introduced wines from Walker’s Bluff Winery in Carterville, Illinois, are now available at all stadium bars. –Heather Riske

siminers.com PHOTO BY SEAn LOCkE

Southern Illinois University-Carbondale Richard “Itchy” Jones Stadium Team: SIUC Salukis LocaTion: 425 Saluki Drive in carbondale, illinois capaciTy: 2,000

★ History: After 50 years of

v Must-Try Eats:

Southern Illinois University-Carbondale

nachos are only available

(SIUC) Salukis moved into the $4.2 million

at the new concession stand

Richard “Itchy” Jones Stadium in 2014.

behind home plate. The nachos

The stadium’s namesake, baseball coach

come topped with lettuce,

Itchy Jones, holds the record for most

guacamole, sour cream, black

The fan-favorite loaded

playing at the Abe Martin Field, the

games won in SIUC history. In keeping with Southern Illinois’ “Little Egypt” nickname, SIUC adopted the saluki dog breed, frequently featured in ancient Egyptian

beef brisket and taco-seasoned ground beef can also be added to nachos.

olives, jalapeños, creamy nacho cheese sauce and – if you like – a generous drizzle of barbecue sauce; upon request, tender beef brisket or taco-seasoned

artwork, as its mascot in 1951.

ground beef can be added during

u Must-Try Drinks:

weekend series. Other eats Beer

include hot dogs, chips, popcorn,

fans are in luck this season, as it marks the

brats and soft pretzels. On

first year that brews like Bud Light, Miller

Tuesdays, hot dogs, small sodas

Lite and Coors Light have been sold on

and tickets are just $2 each, and

campus; fountain sodas are also available.

on Family Fridays you can snag four tickets, four hot dogs, nachos

siusalukis.com

or pretzels and four drinks for just

PHOTO BY SEAn LOCkE

$25. –Rose Hansen

44

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

Missouri Southern State University Warren Turner Field TeaM: MSSU Lions LOcaTiON: 3950 Newman Road in Joplin, Missouri caPaciTY: 600

★ History: When the $2.6 million Warren Turner Field opened in 2015, it marked the first time that Lions

baseball returned to the Missouri Southern State University (MSSU) campus in more than 40 years. Named after longtime MSSU baseball coach Warren Turner, the stadium secures the beloved coach’s legacy for future generations.

Turner, who ranks 15th in NCAA history, was elected into the National Association of Intercollegiate Athletics Baseball Coaches Hall of Fame in 2004 and boasts 852 career victories.

vu Must-Try Eats and Drinks: The famous mutt burger, which is much older than the stadium itself, is the fan favorite at Warren Turner Field. With a special combination of garlic seasoning, grilled onion and Worcestershire sauce mixed into the patty, the burger is served with cheese and extra grilled onions on top. It was dreamed up by the late Mutt Miller, a friend of Turner's, who started selling them at home games in 1978. No alcohol is served at the ballpark, but a bubbly soda should hit the spot on a hot summer day; a cup of hot chocolate or coffee will warm you up on chilly fall evenings. And if a burger sounds like too much, the concession stand also sells candy bars, hot dogs, popcorn and nachos. –R.H.

mssulions.com PHOTO BY Mark NeueNscHwaNder

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

45

Busch Stadium Team: St. Louis Cardinals LocaTion: 700 Clark Ave. in St. Louis capaciTy: 45,529

★

History: Busch Stadium – or at least the name – has lived a few different lives. The home of the St. Louis Cardinals was originally known as Sportsman’s Park until brewing magnate Gussie Busch bought the team in 1953. In 1966, the team moved to the multi-purpose Busch Memorial Stadium, which was also home to the NFL Cardinals through 1987. The current iteration of Busch Stadium, which opened in 2006, occupies part of the former stadium’s footprint. The Cardinals opened it with a bang that year, becoming the first team in almost 100 years to win a World Series in the first season of a new ballpark.

u Must-Try Drinks:

Bud has always reigned supreme at Busch Stadium, but the selection of local craft beers greatly expanded this year with the opening of 1764 Craft Pub. Located near first base in section 144, the newest offering from Gamlin Restaurant Group features 24 taps including Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., Charleville Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Schlafly Beer. The group also operates outposts of their Central West End restaurants Sub Zero Vodka Bar and Gamlin Whiskey House in the outfield section, where fans can find craft cocktails including the Power Hitter Punch (Pinnacle Tropical Punch Vodka with pineapple and cranberry juices), First Pitch (with Jim Beam Vanilla Bourbon and Coke) and Rally Mule served in a souvenir copper mug. mlb.com/cardinals/ballpark

PHOTO BY JUDD DEMALINE

kohn's kosher cart serves all-beef hot dogs topped with locally made pastrami, sauerkraut and yellow mustard.

46

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

v Must-Try Eats: Busch Stadium is said to sell more nachos than any other spot in the country, but there’s plenty of other grub available to hungry fans. (If you're in the mood for nachos, though, be sure to head to El Birdos Cantina, with locations outside sections 152, 131, 454 and 251, to choose your own toppings.) On the fourth floor, the brand-new multi-level Budweiser Terrace (the former Riverview Corner) features lounge seating, two full-service bars selling $5 draft beers until the first pitch and an open-air grill. Here, you’ll find hearty fare including Grilled Chicken Bats (smoked chicken legs with barbecue, Buffalo or hot sauce), jumbo grilled shrimp skewers and Sausage Bites (chopped-up bratwurst with spicy aïoli and jalapeño with house chips). Can’t decide on just one? Order the Grand Slam Mixed Grill to get a taste of all three. Outside sections 147 and 446, Creve Coeur, Missouri, favorite Kohn’s Kosher Cart sells classics including pastrami dogs, corned beef sandwiches, German knackwurst and potato knish. In the mood for a sweet treat? Chesterfieldbased Half Baked Cookie Dough Co. sells edible cookie dough in flavors like chocolate chip, sugar cookie and peanut butter outside sections 153, 107 and 452. –H.R.

Team: River City Rascals

CarShield Field

LocaTion: 900 T.R. Hughes Blvd. in O’Fallon, Missouri capaciTy: 5,150

★ History: The River City Rascals played their first season at CarShield Field

(originally known as T.R. Hughes Ballpark) in 1999, although the franchise got its start in 1993 as one of the original six teams in the Frontier League. Originally playing as the Zanesville Greys in Zanesville, Ohio, the franchise fell into financial trouble before relocating to O’Fallon, Missouri, as the River City Rascals in 1998. The move led to a major boost in attendance; the Rascals were even named the Frontier League Organization of the Year in 1999 and 2000. This year, the Rascals celebrate their 20th anniversary in O’Fallon: On Tue., July 10, the team will host the Frontier League All-Star game for the first time in more than a decade.

GCS credit union Ballpark TeaM: Gateway Grizzlies LOcaTiOn: 2301 Grizzlie Bear Blvd. in Sauget, illinois capaciTy: 6,000

v Must-Try Eats: Move over, plastic baseball caps. CarShield Field pays tribute to Rascals mascot Ruffy (a scruffy bull terrier) by serving its loaded nachos in, yes, dog bowls. In addition to classic nachos with chili, nacho cheese, sour cream, jalapeños, onions and black olives, the stadium is upping the ante this year with new variations including pulled pork, smoked chicken, shredded chicken and Philly cheesesteak. The newest featured menu item, the gang’s all here, is a behemoth of a sandwich: It features 12-inch muffuletta buns packed with 13 hamburgers, eight slices of cheese, a dozen eggs, a pound of hash browns, two cups of chili and onions.

Weighing in at around six and a half pounds, it can easily serve a family of four. Think you can handle it? Head to the concession stand during the fifth inning – if you and a group of friends can finish the sandwich in one sitting, you may win a prize like free tickets, gift shop memorabilia or a free drink or meal. It’s safe to say bigger is better this year at CarShield; the ballpark also introduced a 14-inch Bavarian pretzel served three ways. Go classic with a salted pretzel served with nacho cheese sauce and mustard or sweet with a cinnamon sugar pretzel served with chocolate sauce and Nutella. The family version comes stuffed with Cheddar cubes, strawberries, apples and bananas on one side and marshmallows and M&MS on the other. Leave things on a sweet note with the ballpark’s new Dogtown Sundae, featuring four scoops of ice cream (two each of chocolate and vanilla), fried churros, caramel and chocolate sauce and a bit of whipped cream topped with Dippin’ Dots ice cream.

u Must-Try Drinks:

In addition to your standard domestic brews, this year, CarShield Field has introduced draft beer from local craft breweries Schlafly Beer and O’Fallon Brewery. In honor of the All-Star Game this month, grab a pint of the Rascals All Star Red Ale, brewed especially for the Rascals by O’Fallon Brewery. –H.R. rivercityrascals.com

PHOTO BY JUDD DEMALINE

★ History: Originally known as GMC Stadium, GCS Credit Union

Ballpark opened in 2002 with a bleacher section, reserved box seating, lawn seating, party suites and even a hot tub suite. The Gateway Grizzlies hit a milestone just two years later when they became the first Frontier League team in history to bring in more than 200,000 fans over the season.

v Must-Try Eats: GCS isn’t shy when it comes to boasting about its burger – the stadium boldly refers to it as Baseball’s Best Burger. A variation on the classic Luther Burger (a cheeseburger with donuts for buns), the version at GCS features a thick quarter-pound hamburger topped with two slices of bacon and sharp Cheddar cheese sandwiched between a split Krispy Kreme Original Glazed donut. Not for the faint of heart, the burger quickly caught the attention of Sports Illustrated, USA Today and Travel Channel’s Man v. Food. Baseball’s Best Nachos, meanwhile, come topped with all the fixings of a classic Philly cheesesteak; the stadium also serves pulled pork, taco and Buffalo chicken variations. On high-profile game nights, chicken kebabs are available, and new this year are barbecued turkey legs with local Country Bob’s seasoning and sauce. In the mood for something a bit more tame? Opt for regular nachos or a classic hot dog with sauerkraut, grilled onions, bacon and nacho cheese sauce.

u Must-Try Drinks:

In addition to ballpark staples like Budweiser and Busch, you’ll also find draft beers from local microbreweries like nearby 4204 Main Street Brewing Co. in Belleville, Illinois. This year, the Grizzlies and 4204 partnered with the St. Louis Browns Historical Society on a limited-edition beer called Tribute to the St. Louis Browns. –H.R. gatewaygrizzlies.com

PHOTO BY JUDD DEMALINE Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

47

Team: Kansas City T-Bones

T-Bones Stadium

LocaTion: 1800 Village W Pkwy in Kansas City, Kansas capaciTy: 6,537

★ History: The Kansas City T-Bones belong to the American Association of

Independent Professional Baseball, but there’s nothing minor league about the team.

Originally called the Duluth-Superior Dukes when the Northern League was re-established in 1993, the team moved to Kansas City, Kansas, in 2002 following plans to build a ballpark near the Kansas Speedway. The award-winning stadium was designed and built in nine months and two days, just enough time to start the inaugural season in 2003. T-Bones

snapped cheddar popcorn made with logboat brewing co.’s snapper ipa.

Stadium, formerly CommunityAmerica Ballpark, has seen more than 200,000 fans each season for the past 15 years, and it was also recognized as the league’s best field in 2009 by the Northern League.

university of missouri Taylor Stadium Team: Missouri Tigers LoCaTion: 303 Carrie Francke Drive in Columbia, missouri CapaCiTy: 3,031

★

History: Taylor Stadium has been the permanent home of Missouri Tigers baseball since 2002, following a generous gift from Ralph Taylor, a University of Missouri alumnus, and his wife, Debbie. Recent renovations have increased both seating and concession options for Southeastern Conference fans, who rally around Mizzou during the college baseball season. Break Time Lounge, a new addition to the stadium in 2017, sports fireplaces and cushy patio-style sofa seating for fans looking to up their game-day experience. Any ticket-holder can purchase food from Break Time Lounge, but passes are needed to access the premium lounge area.

v Must-Try Eats: Head down the third-base line to snag a bag of

gopo popcorn, flavored and popped in Columbia. Twist open a snack-sized bag of Snapped Cheddar, made with Logboat Brewing Co.’s Snapper IPA, or the Slowburn Kettle, infused with barbecue sauce from local favorite Lutz’s BBQ. At Wednesday games, hot dogs are $1 apiece, and Tuesdays bring $2 tacos. Grab one (or three) quickly; they usually sell out early. On weekends, Break Time Lounge serves specials such as chicken teriyaki sandwiches, served with sliced pineapple, smoked ham and pepper Jack cheese on a pretzel bun, and carne asada nachos, a heaping helping of housemade chips topped with grilled beef, fire-roasted corn salsa and sour cream.

A fan favorite is the Home-Run Hot Dog, topped with jalapeños, crumbled bacon and beer cheese sauce.

u Must-Try Drinks:

Break Time Lounge now offers canned beer and cocktails for purchase with a premium ticket. Choose from domestics such as Budweiser, Bud Light and Blue Moon, or opt for specialty cocktails themed around the game or an upcoming holiday. –Jessica E. Vaughn

v Must-Try Eats: Families flock to see the T-Bones play, and that’s partially due to the affordable tickets and high-quality ballpark concessions. In addition to classics like hot dogs and cotton candy, the stadium serves up barbecue nachos piled high with pulled pork, nacho cheese sauce and barbecue sauce, plus pulled pork and chopped brisket sandwiches.

Local eats are now prepared by Spectra Food Services & Hospitality, which debuted a

new Suite Menu this year featuring items like oven-roasted beef tenderloin with portobello mushrooms and a red-wine sauce and the Fiesta Chicken Lime Bowl with Spanish rice, tortilla chips and a black bean, avocado and corn salad tossed in a chipotle-lime dressing.

u Must-Try Drinks:

serves a variety of craft, domestic and imported beers. You’ll likely spot a lot of Budweiser cans in the crowd alongside pours from Boulevard Brewing Co., KC Bier Co. and a gluten-free beer called Yoga Pants from Martin City Brewing Co. –Jenny A. Vergara

mutigers.com/facilities

tbonesbaseball.com

PHOTO BY AARON OTTIS

PHOTO BY ADAM CASELMAN

48

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

Head to Micro League Beers near the food stand, which

Kauffman Stadium

nitro ice cream being made at kauffman stadium

Team: Kansas City Royals LocaTion: 1 Royal Way in Kansas city capaciTy: 37,903

★

History: Kauffman Stadium originally opened as Royals Stadium in 1973, and despite being 45 years old, it’s still ranked as one of the top 10 ballparks in Major League Baseball by sports-writers from USA Today, NBC and Forbes. In 1993, Kauffman Stadium was officially renamed in honor of Ewing M. Kauffman, the founder and first owner of the Royals. Known for its spacious outfield and unique 322-foot-wide fountain – a nod to Kansas City’s nickname, City of Fountains – the real highlight is the 2009 addition of a massive high-definition scoreboard and display screen in the shape of the Royals logo, complete with golden crown on top.

v Must-Try Eats: Scouting for a wide selection of craft beer and gourmet game-day fare? Kauffman’s Craft & Draft is your destination. Located on the Loge Level along the third-base line, Craft & Draft has, in addition to a killer selection of 75 beers, a pub-style menu with new specials every home game. The coconut-chicken salad features shredded coconutbattered chicken tenders chopped and served over spring mix and baby kale with avocado, tomato, a hard-boiled egg and shredded Cheddar cheese with a honey vinaigrette. For more classic ballpark fare, wind up for the Drunken Barbacoa Beef Nachos topped with slow-cooked beef cheek braised in orange juice and Boulevard Brewing Co.’s Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale, then

shredded and served over tortilla chips with habanero queso, chipotle-lime sour cream, charred corn, black beans, pico de gallo and green onions. If you’re looking for gourmet hot dogs, head over to the new Dogfather Cart at Gate D and try a Godfather-inspired hot dog. The KC Boss, a new fan favorite, is topped with mac ‘n’ cheese, barbecue sauce, maple-pepper bacon and parsley. Slide into something sweet with two new sundaes: Choose from nitro ice cream in flavors like Moose Tracks or Home Plate dirt and worms, or opt for a scoop of Jane Dough’s edible cookie dough and add your favorite ice-cream toppings.

u Must-Try Drinks:

Just in time for Opening Day at Kauffman, Boulevard Brewing Co. launched a new beer in honor of the Royals called ¡Vamos! (Let’s Go!). Look for the Mexican-style lager as well as Boulevard’s new Jam Band Berry Ale at Craft & Draft alongside other local brews from Martin City Brewing Co., Free State Brewing Co., Mother’s Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Schlafly Beer. –J.A.V. mlb.com/royals/ballpark

PHOTO BY ADAM CASELMAN Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ne 2 018

75

Rolling Meadows FaRM BReweRy grows wheat, hops and more to brew unique and hyper-local craft beer in central Illinois.

Written by

photography by

Liz MiLLer

ben roMang

D

ustin Regan is trying to do the impossible: grow blood oranges in central Illinois. Although the citrus fruit thrives best in a consistently warm climate, blood

oranges can survive in greenhouses or even outdoor containers in cooler areas. Dustin planted his trees outside, directly in the soil, next to a pond that’s surrounded by a forest.

“We’ll see how it goes,” he says with a laugh. “They’re in a piece of woods that I think might be protected enough to make it through the winter. I’ve read that if you plant them out in a hardy environment, they’ll almost adapt to it if they can. Where I planted them, the trees won’t have as much exposure [to the elements] during the winter, and they have a water source.”

If the experiment is fruitful, it could eventually allow Rolling Meadows Farm Brewery, where Dustin is brewmaster, to source at least a portion of the citrus locally for its popular blood orange hefeweizen. To make the beer, approximately 300 pounds of blood oranges are peeled and juiced; up until this year, all of that work was done by hand at the brewery. Now, a machine is used to remove the peel and pith, leaving only the pure fruit for the hefeweizen.

The peels are then dehydrated and used to add tart flavor to the brewery’s white IPA. The hefeweizen is something of an anomaly at Rolling Meadows, which aims to use as much local product as possible, including ingredients grown on the property – hence the experimental orange grove. Currently, the brewery buys its blood oranges directly from local grocery stores and restaurants that sell its beers in an effort to support the community in some way.

Yet the blood orange hefeweizen is worth the deviation. The beer is special for Dustin and brewery co-founders Caren Trudeau and her son, Chris. It was one of the first ales Caren and Dustin’s late mother, Connie, first brewed together more than 20 years ago. Back then, the women were just brewing for fun; they discovered a wild hop growing on Caren’s farm in Cantrall, Illinois, where the brewery is located today, and it inspired them to explore homebrewing.

“I watched them for years, helped them somewhat, and it became something that I wanted to experiment with, just because it was cool.

It was a science and it really interested me in that way,” Dustin recalls.

“We started brewing with our moms, and then we took their recipes and made them scalable.”

50

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

T

he Trudeau family bought the property, just outside of Springfield, when Chris was 7 years old, and renamed it Rolling Meadows. Some of his earliest memories on the 14-acre farm

include tooling around on a go-kart, taking turns too fast and singing “Born to be Wild.” At the time, the family primarily raised corn and soybeans for commercial sale, as well as some produce for personal use. Dustin was surrounded by farming from a young age, as well, through their friends, the Trudeaus. Initially, Caren and Connie brewed for themselves, family and

Rolling Meadows' four flagship beers are session lager; session IPA; Abe’s Ale, a maple syrup brown ale; and Springfield Wheat, a hefeweizen.

Some beers, like the white IPA, aren’t currently in production, but may return in the future. The brewery releases one specialty per month made with hyper-local ingredients; the following are seasonal releases to look for throughout the year.

friends and for harvest parties on the farm.

“Before that, our moms were just brewing in beer buckets, glass Carboys and on the stovetop,” Dustin says. “They’d do partial grain mashes with [flavor] extracts and then they got further and further into using full-grain mashes.”

That’s how Dustin and Chris got into brewing as well. Dustin has been brewing on his own since he was 17, but the idea to open a brewery began with Chris. Almost 10 years ago, on a trip home from college in Vancouver, British Columbia, where he’d fallen hard for the local craft beer scene, Chris saw the opportunity to expand into commercial production. He spent many weekends brewing with friends at Half Acre Brewing Co. in Chicago to learn the ropes at a true production brewery; he and Dustin also enrolled in online courses through the Siebel Institute of Technology and World Brewing

Summer Cherry wit Strawberry-basil ale

Fall Apple ale Black Market Bock

Winter Coffee Break ale Barrel-Aged Abe’s Ale

Spring Blood orange hefeweizen Blueberry-thyme lager Blackberry-coriander ale

Academy in Chicago and traveled to the University of California, Davis for intensive week-long programs. Caren and Connie followed suit, intent on translating their extensive homebrewing knowledge to professional brewing know-how.

“My mom never thought she’d be doing complex math equations just to make beer,” Dustin says with a laugh. “We always joked that our moms were Belgian brewers – a handful of this, a handful of that. But we needed to scale these things; we needed to figure out how much their handfuls weighed.”

By 2011, the two families had opened the first production brewery in the area since Prohibition. Both Chris and Dustin love wheat beers, and one of the brewery’s first three releases was Springfield Wheat. In the brewery’s early days, beers were released like the white IPA, a weiss beer brewed with farm-fresh coriander and a blend of hops, including the farm’s wild variety, to meet public demand. “Then that [style] blew into a huge market, and breweries across the country were releasing white IPAs,” Dustin says.

The white IPA trend isn’t the only one that Rolling Meadows has been ahead of the curve on. The brewery’s session IPA and session lagers were released around the time that such low-ABV beers were gaining ground

+

across the country.

Rolling Meadows is sold across

Illinois, including at Friar Tuck, Hy-Vee and Schnucks stores. In the greater

St. Louis area, look for it at Friar Truck or Schnucks; the brewery will soon expand distribution into northern

Like the blood oranges for the hefeweizen, what can’t be sourced locally is purchased in the community. For the brewery’s coffee porter, Coffee Break, Rolling Meadows partnered with Custom Cup Coffee in Springfield.

The popular winter seasonal porter ended up being a finalist in the beer category at the Good Food Awards in 2017.

and southern Illinois.

In addition to the blood oranges Dustin is trying to grow, he’s foraged for wild hazelnuts and pecans on the property to use in beers, and he raises bees both for honey production and to help pollinate crops. He’s even tapped sycamore trees on the land to use the sap in beer. Fresh produce and herbs have also made their way into beers, including those from the brewery’s fruited series, like the thyme used in the blueberry-thyme ale, coriander in the blackberry-coriander lager and basil for the strawberrybasil ale. Dustin says the herbs were added to the fruited series beers for additional flavor and dimension; since the brewery doesn’t use artificial flavorings or colorings, they found that the beers made with only fresh fruit juice needed other elements for more depth of flavor.

What they don’t grow themselves is sourced from other local farms – for instance, blueberries, blackberries and strawberries from nearby Jeffries Orchard, which has been a continuously operating family farm for more than 100 years. Last fall, Jeffries supplied Rolling Meadows with apples for a new apple ale; Dustin says that they’ve also discussed sourcing asparagus, possibly for an IPA. Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

51

DusTin Regan

Being located on a farm has other advantages: A blend of hops, including some grown on the

city and shipping port eight miles northwest of Springfield; today, the former site of Sangamo

farm and the wild hop that Connie and Caren discovered more than two decades ago, are used

Town is covered in forest, but from the right vantage point on the farm, you can see it across

to brew beer. Learning how to raise hops on a slightly larger scale wasn’t without its challenges,

the Sangamon River.

though. Hops are a vining plant that don’t naturally grow upwards; they must be guided to grow on trellises, and at Rolling Meadows, irrigated to survive central Illinois’ hot and dry summers.

By the time he was 23, Lincoln co-owned the first of two small general stores in nearby New Salem, Illinois, with a man named William Berry. The general stores, called Berry-Lincoln, sold

Dustin estimates that they’ve experimented with growing 10 or 12 hop varieties over the past

myriad items: tools, food and drink, firearms, and as was customary at the time, eventually

10 years, including some classic English and Pacific Northwest varieties. Chris says the Pacific

booze, making Lincoln the only American president to have ever owned a licensed tavern.

Northwest hops, including Cascade, grow best in the central Illinois climate and soil. As for the wild hop vine, for years the families assumed it was Japanese hop (Humulus japonicus).

In tribute to Springfield’s most famous resident, Rolling Meadows’ first two beers – now two

The invasive variety was imported to the U.S. from Eastern Asia in the late 1800s, and now

of its four flagships – are named for America’s 16th president: Lincoln’s Lager, a light-bodied

grows in states across the Midwest and East Coast. However, after having a sample of the vine

lager, and Abe’s Ale, a maple syrup brown ale. In 2016, the brewery’s limited edition

evaluated by a specialist, the families learned that their wild hop was an English species likely

barrel-aged Abe’s Ale was one of 14 beers from across the country to win at the Good Food

imported by a previous tenant of the farm or someone nearby.

Awards in the beer category.

Currently, the brewery sources its different types of wheat, barley and additional hop

Rolling Meadows’ greatest tribute to Lincoln, however, was the 1831 Vintage Porter, brewed

varieties from farmer collectives. Last fall, though, the families planted wheat; they’re hoping

to benefit the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum in Springfield. The project

to harvest it for beer production next year, with an eventual goal of producing beers made

was spearheaded by Rolling Meadows’ chief operations officer, Bryan Tippy, who joined the

exclusively with wheat, hops and flavorings all grown on the farm. Even the water used for

brewery in August 2017. A self-described “history and Lincoln nerd,” Tippy wanted the porter to

brewing beer is hyper-local, sourced from an aquifer on the property, which filters water from

nod to Lincoln’s life in the state capital.

the nearby Sangamon River.

The porter recipe Dustin used was recovered from a book written in the New Salem area “I always joke that any brewery in Springfield could make the exact same beer recipe as I make

around 1830 or 1831, the year Lincoln first traveled down the Sangamon River to New Salem.

out here, but it would taste completely different because of the water,” Dustin says. “[Our]

Dustin converted the recipe from metric-system measurements and sourced historically

water is less hard in the summer, which lends to lagers and lighter ales. In the winter, it’s harder

similar ingredients – including yeast and unmodified wheat – and aged the porter in local,

and lends toward darker, heavier beers.”

uncharred oak barrels. For the bottles, Tippy took inspiration from the Sangamon River. During a routine cleanup of the waterway, which surrounds one entire side of the property, Tippy uncovered a heavy, brown glass bottle similar in size to Rolling Meadows’ 750-milliliter bomber

T

he location of the brewery is unique – few breweries operate on working farms – and

bottles. Given its shape and design, he estimates that it’s 80 or 90 years old; thanks to its

the surrounding area is also part of its story.

lengthy run in the Sangamon, the outside glass features a smooth, river-sanded patina.

Rolling Meadows is located along the Sangamon River, which Abraham Lincoln traveled along

“This is where things go from a labor of love to kind of ridiculous,” Tippy says with a laugh. “We

and lived near during his early adult life. Lincoln was born in Kentucky and spent his youth in

hand-acid-etched 530 bottles to make it look like the bottle we found in the river, because this

Indiana; he arrived in Springfield when he was 28 and considered it his adopted hometown.

beer was a tribute to Sangamo Town. Then we hand-tagged them and hand-waxed the caps. The

Before he made a name for himself in Springfield, Lincoln and two other men were hired to

only historically inaccurate thing we did was use sanitation. And the porter turned out to be

ferry grain and hogs to New Orleans. They built their flatboat in Sangamo Town, an industrial

really amazing.”

52

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

Before coming on board at Rolling Meadows, Tippy worked for years with Conn’s Hospitality Group in Springfield. He’s also a high-school friend of Chris’ older brother, Craig; keeping operations among relatives and friends is important to both families. “I’ve known Craig since I was 15 – so over half my life – but I’m still catching up,” Tippy laughs. “I’m still the odd man out when it comes to how strong the close-knit circle is here.”

Since joining the Rolling Meadows team, Tippy has helped the brewery evolve its branding and packaging, working closely with an outside PR team to tell more of the farm’s story. This included introducing a new logo and mascot, a llama, which references both the farm’s two llamas, Dolly and Mama, as well as the brewery’s desire to push boundaries. “Llamas, they do their own thing – they don’t follow the herd,” Tippy says. The brewery’s name was also changed; previously, it was known as Rolling Meadows Brewery, and the addition of “farm” seemed a natural way to give a sense of place and purpose.

Maybe the biggest update in the past year, though, has been the brewery’s new packaging. Four of its popular year-round beers are now sold in cans: session lager, session IPA, Abe’s Ale and Springfield Wheat. The cans each feature a different nod to Lincoln or the farm itself. “There’s less carbon footprint in canning and less opportunity for oxygen to get in, and also, you can take them a lot more places,” Tippy says.

“This is where things go from a labor of love to kind of ridiculous. We hand-acid-etched 530 bottles to make it look like the bottle we found in the river, because this beer was a tribute to Sangamo Town. Then we hand-tagged them and hand-waxed the caps. The only historically inaccurate thing we did was use sanitation. And the porter turned out to be really amazing.”

-BryAn Tippy, Rolling Meadows Farm Brewery's chief operations officer Tippy has helped usher in a new era at the brewery, although his hiring was precipitated by tragedy. In May 2017, Rolling Meadows co-founder and operations manager Connie Regan unexpectedly passed away.

As family and friends grieved the enormous loss, they also wanted to ensure that Connie’s legacy and work lived on. “When I came on board, although it was a tough time, we believed that me moving [into this position] seemed like the right thing to do,” Tippy says. “I think we’ve weathered the storm pretty well, and I’m excited for 2018.”

This summer, seasonal releases at Rolling Meadows will include the annual cherry wit made with local cherries and specialty red wheat. The beer was one of the brewery’s first fruit variants after the success of its blood orange hefeweizen, and also has special significance to the families.

“The cherry wit was a favorite of Caren and my mom,” Dustin says. “It ended up being one of the most expensive beers that we make, though, because of the red wheat. It lends a really nice flavor and a pinkish hue of color, but it’s the most expensive grain we purchase. That’s still how we make it, though.”

Even as the brewery evolves and grows, that emphasis on quality ingredients – the right ingredients, the best ingredients, no matter the cost – stays the same. That’s the approach that Caren and Connie took all those years ago, and it’s the same one that guides their sons work at the brewery today. rollingmeadowsbrewery.com

a t i n a r G p m a C s

e y, r tor

cipe

dp s an

hoto

gr

y ama aphy b

nda wilen

s

, y t s o r f h t i w t a e s h a e t i h n t a t r a g Be e l b m e s . s s a r o o t v a y l s f y ea r e m m u s , h s e r f n i

st t the mo reats, ye t r e b m e m ad y su ssential ssert is m e e ll d a n e a r li a a ooth, es e It r until sm snow con anita. Th r e d g d n n a a le e s b b le t a h , Popsic pices) in nd then mble mig Ice cream rbs and s -to-asse stirring a e , y h g s , a it in e u z r e d f e n tals. If sh ga e fr – ice crys sually fre an befor refreshin e p (u t s m t e a n e n h ie e s d h t of sa st ingre add a sho rainy, thu g it acros y g il in r puréeing s d o a a e – e r n e p s a evenly s lt is coar ide, you c and then final resu joy pools n e e h T o . t r in e a ng it ag ze. hing stro freezing itial free in or somet f e h g t in e k r o , plus five befo you’re lo granitas or spirit y e z o most in o w -b e rit make the ve non s fi e – ip s your favo c e e ip r in s. These ing 10 rec esulting il version e're shar berries, r a w k t c k s c e la o g b c a d r p n o owing eaches a recipes f In the foll berries, p ose base h w t a r o t t s s g n tio er days. e, includin modifica hot summ r produc e n m w o m d u l s o of fresh ats to co rozen tre f g in h s e refr

90

feastmagazine.com

march 2018

Inspired Local Food Culture

ma r c h 2 018 91

Before you get started Make sure you have a large metal baking pan (a 13-by-9-inch pan is ideal) to ensure your granita freezes quickly and evenly.

If you forget to stir and scrape the granita, let the mixture sit at room temperature for about 10 to 15 minutes to slightly thaw, and then mix and repeat the preparation process.

Mint-Peach Granita and Minty Peach Buzz Cocktail ServeS | 4 |

Mint SiMple Syrup (Yields 1 cup) ¹⁄₃ cup granulated sugar 1 cup water 10 fresh mint leaves Granita 1 lb (3 to 4 cups) peaches, sliced 1 cup mint simple syrup (recipe below) fresh mint (for garnish)

Cocktail

1 lb (4 cups) peaches, sliced ½ cup mint simple syrup (recipe below) ½ cup bourbon fresh mint (for garnish)

| preparation – mint simple syrup | In a small saucepan over low heat, add sugar and water; stir occasionally until sugar dissolves. Add mint, stir and cook for 3 minutes. remove from heat and let sit at room temperature for another 2 to 3 minutes. Strain syrup and discard mint leaves. Set aside.

| preparation – granita | In the bowl of a blender, purée peaches and simple syrup.

Spread across a 13-by-9-inch metal baking pan and cover with aluminum foil; transfer to freezer. Using the back of a fork, scrape and stir granita every 30 minutes for at least 2 hours. Serve.

| preparation – cocktail | In the bowl of a blender, purée peaches, simple syrup and

This granita pairs mint simple syrup with fresh peaches and bourbon, all flavors that go hand in hand.

bourbon. Spread across a 13-by-9-inch metal pan and cover with aluminum foil; transfer to freezer. Using the back of a fork, scrape and stir granita every 30 minutes for at least 2 hours and 30 minutes. An additional hour of freezing may be needed. Serve.

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

55

Don’t miss a

single serving!

subscribe to Feast’s weekly enewsletter for delicious content covering KC, stL and mid-mo dining.

Visit feastmagazine.com to subscribe and you’ll get fresh content delivered to your inbox every Wednesday!

JOIN US FOR SUNDAY BRUNCH OR DINNER! Enjoy Our Award Winning Breakfast Menu With Our Delicious Boozy Breakfast Cocktails & Chef Mehmet's Whole Roasted Lamb.

Lunch: Tues-Fri :: Dinner: Tues-Sun :: Sunday Brunch Wine Flights: Tues-Wed :: Happy Hour: Tues-Fri Available for Private Parties and Catering

Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Known for our Meze (Small Plates), Lamb Dishes, Fresh Fish and Excellent Wine Selection.

6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com

Bring this in for $10 off per person “Get ‘Hitched’ to a Red Neck or Die”

Ask for a “STARRING” role or just sit back and guess “Whodunit.” Will Bubba solve the case before he gets ‘hitched’? Or will it be a shotgun weddin’? Come and get served up a heaping helping of our hospitality - Red neck style.

Join Bubba, Billie Jean and the Duck Dynasty Clan. for a night of merriment and murder in this interactive comedy mystery served with a 4-course meal to Die for!

Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830 Coupon valid through July, 2018. Not valid for groups.

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com

TRY US FOR YOUR SPECIAL OCCASION! From the Prezzavento Family to Your Family Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! “To Eat Well is to Live Well” Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere.

Birthday, Graduation, Retirement, Corporate Parties!

Let Us Cater Your Special Occasion Try Our Party Pans For A Delicious Meal For Any Size Group Prime Rib Dinners the last weekend of every month Now selling our Signature Salad Dressing and Pasta Sauce.

Bottled with love by our family for your family.

Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday

5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com 56

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

My go-to drink for summer gatherings is homemade

blackberry lemonade. For

blackberry lemonade cocktails, I recommend vodka; don’t fret that your granita

cocktail won’t freeze, though, even if the bottle of vodka in your freezer never has.

Because the vodka is mixed with other liquids, it will

freeze after a few hours.

If you prefer, the same

amount of gin works well, too.

Blackberry-Basil-Lemonade Granita and Easy Peasy Berry Squeezy Cocktail ServeS | 4 |

Granita 6 cups fresh blackberries 2¼ cups lemonade, divided 2 Tbsp granulated sugar 5 to 7 large basil leaves, plus more for garnish

Cocktail

6 1½ 2 5 to 7 ¾

cups fresh blackberries cups lemonade, divided Tbsp granulated sugar large basil leaves, plus more for garnish cup vodka

| preparation – granita | In the bowl of a blender, purée berries. Strain berries through a fine-mesh sieve to remove seeds; this will yield about 2 cups of liquid. Set aside.

In a large glass measuring cup, add ¼ cup lemonade and sugar and muddle in basil leaves; let sit for a few minutes before straining and discarding basil. Add remaining lemonade to cup and stir. In a large glass bowl, combine blackberry liquid with lemonade and stir. Spread across a 13-by-9-inch metal baking pan and cover with aluminum foil; transfer to freezer. Using the back of a fork, scrape and stir every 30 minutes for at least 2 hours and 30 minutes. Garnish with remaining basil leaves and serve.

| preparation – cocktail | In the bowl of a blender, purée berries. Strain berries through a fine-mesh sieve to remove seeds; this will yield about 2 cups of liquid. Set aside.

In a large glass measuring cup, add ¼ cup lemonade and sugar then muddle in basil leaves; let sit for a few minutes before straining and discarding basil. Add remaining lemonade to cup and stir. In a large glass bowl, combine blackberry liquid with lemonade and vodka and stir. Spread across a 13-by-9-inch metal baking pan and cover with aluminum foil; transfer to freezer. Using the back of a fork, scrape and stir every 30 minutes for at least 3 hours. Garnish with remaining basil leaves and serve.

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

57

This granita is best enj oyed on a hot afternoon by the pool.

Pineapple-Mango Granita and Pineapple-Mango Margarita ServeS | 4 |

Granita 2 cups frozen pineapple cubes 2 cups frozen mango cubes ½ cup fresh lime juice 1½ cups pineapple juice

Cocktail 2 2 ½ ¾ ¾

cups frozen pineapple cubes cups frozen mango cubes cup fresh lime juice cup pineapple juice cup tequila

| preparation – granita | In the bowl of a blender, purée all ingredients. Spread across a 13-by-9-inch metal baking pan and cover with aluminum foil; transfer to freezer. Using the back of a fork, scrape and stir every 30 minutes for at least 2 hours. Serve. | preparation – cocktail | In the bowl of a blender, purée all ingredients. Spread across a 13-by-9-inch metal baking pan and cover with aluminum foil; transfer to freezer. Using the back of a fork, scrape and stir every 30 minutes for at least 2 hours and 30 minutes.

An additional hour of freezing may be needed. Serve.

, ffee drinker o c a n e e b r I’ve neve creamy lattes ; this i a h c e v lo but I my fix. way to get r e th o n a granita is

Chai Latte Granita and Chai a Little Harder Cocktail ServeS | 4 |

Granita 2 cups chai concentrate 2 cups milk or non-dairy milk substitute 2 tsp vanilla extract ground cinnamon (for garnish) fresh whipped cream (for garnish)

Cocktail

2 1¼ 2 ¾

cups chai concentrate cup milk or non-dairy milk substitute tsp vanilla extract cup Irish cream liqueur ground cinnamon (for garnish) fresh whipped cream (for garnish)

| preparation – granita | In a large glass bowl, add first 3 ingredients and stir to combine. Spread across a 13-by-9-inch metal baking pan and cover with aluminum foil; transfer to freezer. Freeze overnight. Using the back of a fork, scrape and stir before serving. Garnish with cinnamon and whipped cream if desired; serve.

| preparation – cocktail | In a large glass bowl, add first 4 ingredients and stir to combine. Spread across a 13-by-9-inch metal baking pan and cover with aluminum foil; transfer to freezer. Freeze overnight. Using the back of a fork, scrape and stir before serving. Garnish with cinnamon and whipped cream if desired; serve.

58

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

is the trendiest wine of the season,

and strawberries are a perfect match.

Strawberry Granita and Strawberry Frosé Cocktail ServeS | 4 |

Granita 2 lbs (6 cups) fresh strawberries, sliced into rings, plus more for garnish 4 Tbsp granulated sugar 2 tsp lemon zest, plus more for garnish 1 large lemon, juiced

Cocktail 2 4 2 1 2

lbs (6 cups) fresh strawberries, sliced into rings, plus more for garnish Tbsp granulated sugar tsp lemon zest, plus more for garnish large lemon, juiced cups dry rosé

| preparation – granita | Place strawberry slices in a glass bowl and top with sugar and lemon zest; stir. Let sit at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours, or up to 24 hours.

In the bowl of a blender, purée macerated strawberries with lemon juice. Spread across a 13-by-9-inch metal baking pan and cover with aluminum foil; transfer to freezer. Using the back of a fork, scrape and stir granita every 30 minutes for at least 2 hours and 30 minutes; serve.

| preparation – cocktail | Place strawberry slices in a glass bowl and top with sugar and lemon zest; stir. Let sit at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours, or up to 24 hours.

In the bowl of a blender, purée macerated strawberries with lemon juice and rosé.

Spread across a 13-by-9-inch metal baking pan and cover with aluminum foil; transfer to freezer. Using the back of a fork, scrape and stir granita every 30 minutes for at least 2 hours and 30 minutes. An additional hour of freezing may be needed; serve.

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

59

d e h s a Sm Four hIsTorIc spoTs To grAb A quInTessenTIAl summer sTAndArd: smAshed burgers Written by natalie GallaGher, nancy StileS and JeSSica VauGhn

Whether sitting on a mid-century swivel stool behind a shiny Formica countertop or anticipating the arrival of a carhop at your window, generations of Americans have grown up eating smashed burgers. The process for making smashed patties at most diners is similar: flattening ground beef on a white-hot griddle until incredibly thin, with almost laced, caramelized edges. In this feature, we profile four classic smashed-burger joints, each operating in their hometowns for more than 60 years. These beloved spots have stood the test of time in their communities, proving that certain flavors define the essence of what it means to be home.

60

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

Gordon’s Stoplight drive -in stl

The most iconic burger at Gordon’s stopliGht drive-in in Crystal City, Missouri, wasn’t created by founder Gordon Heddell, who was a naval aviator in World War II, but rather his wife, Angie. The Famous Jumbo Burger features a smashed beef patty with perfectly crispy edges, housemade slaw, chopped onions and barbecue sauce on a toasted bun. It’s been on the menu since almost the beginning, in 1948. Current owner Chris Grass and his family bought Gordon’s from Heddell in 1997 – Grass’ mom lived next to Heddell growing up – and in Grass’ words, they’ve kept everything “exactly the same as he [did], as he showed us how to do it.”

Burgers, made with 81/19 ground beef that's never been frozen, are available dressed to order, with or without cheese. Take on the Quadzilla (pictured left) if you dare, with four patties grilled with a custom-cut spatula over fragrant onions and your choice of American cheese, lettuce, tomato, mayo, pickles and ketchup. (The current record-holder ate four Quadzillas, a large cheese fry and a vanilla milkshake in one sitting.) Grass says they’ll often have three generations of a family come in together, and even when customers move out of town, they still come back to Gordon’s. “It’s a very strong tradition in this area, and [even] throughout the country,” he explains. “People move around, and when they come back in town, they get right off the airplane and come straight to us. We’ve got hundreds of customers [with] that same story: They’ve moved out of town, to California or wherever, and the first place they go and the last place they hit before they leave town is us. We have regulars that live in Portland, Oregon, who are here more than people who live in Festus. They come here that often!”

Custom-cut spatulas for grilling the Quadzilla.

In addition to smashed burgers, the 70-year-old spot serves housemade classics including chili, hot dogs, hand-dipped shakes and more. Stop in for breakfast – which Gordon’s has also served since 1948 – from 9 to 10:30am and get the Stoplight Slinger with your choice of meat, two eggs, two kinds of cheese, hash browns and chili served on toast. Last year, Grass opened Gordon’s Cheesesteaks in a pint-sized space just up the road from the iconic burger joint; it serves classic Philly cheesesteaks on Fazio’s Bakery bread.

“We think our product is second to none, first and foremost,” Grass says. “It never changes any time you come: Any time of the year, any time of the day, it’s going to be the same, whether you got it last week or last year or 10 years ago. The consistency in our product and the quality of our product is where we get people’s attention, and they keep coming back.” –Nancy Stiles 500 Bailey Road, Crystal City, Missouri, gordonsstoplightdrivein.com PHOTO By J. POLLACk PHOTOGrAPHy

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

61

pHOTOS By J. pOllACK pHOTOGRApHy

Drive -in il “There are people [who] have been coming in here longer than I’ve been alive,” laughs Jeff Gross, manager at Wally’s Drive-in in Breese, Illinois. Founded by Wally Knue in 1951 in a former gas station, Wally’s is known

for the Wally Burger, a single smashed patty with pickles. Gross says most people, though, order the double cheeseburger (pictured above) – but the record is a burger with 14 patties. The famous burgers, made with a ratio of 81/19 ground beef, are cooked about 50 to 60 at a time on a standard flat-top grill with metal spatulas; they sizzle for about five minutes to get those crispy edges.

“We grind our hamburger every day, and make it very fresh,” Gross says. “It’s just good, quality food; it’s not like something you throw in the microwave real quick. Our shakes are still like they tasted back in the day. We still use real Hershey’s syrup – stuff like that.”

Wally’s also serves fried fish sandwiches – blue gill and cod – beer-battered onion rings, toasted ravioli and crinkle-cut fries (plus curly and waffle fries) in addition to shakes, malts, ice cream cones and sundaes. If you had a few too many last night, ask for what Gross calls the Clinton County Hangover: a double cheeseburger, fries and a local Ski soda. While Wally’s has a big following in southern Illinois, Gross says he sees Missouri license plates in the parking lot every day, too. Although a few menu items have been added over the decades to keep up with changing tastes, other than a few coats of fresh paint, nothing much has changed – except the employees, of course. “We try to keep it simple here, and I think people like that,” Gross adds.

A few years ago, Wally’s got a new countertop, and sure enough, many people say they liked the old one better. Occasionally there’s a wait – it can be a long one – but if the weather’s nice, take a seat at one of the outdoor picnic tables and catch up on the happenings of Clinton County.

Wally’s is now run by Knue’s nephew, Rob – who’s also Gross’ cousin – though you can still catch Wally himself flipping burgers at age 91. If you’re lucky, you might even hear him say his famous motto as he forms burger patties with an ice-cream scoop: “Rain, sleet, snow or shine, they come to Wally’s all the time!” –N.S. 711 N. Fourth St., Breese, Illinois, 618.526.4040

62

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

Drive -in KC In an ever-changing world, it’s comforting to know that some things stay the same – like Hi-Boy Drive-in.

If you’ve been to Independence, Missouri, you know Hi-Boy. The local chain was founded by Floyd and Ruth Kleiber in 1957, and at one point boasted five restaurants in Independence; today, three remain. Larry and Cheryl Comer took over the location at Highway 24 in 1991 and opened a new one at Highway 291 in 2000 (the third, on Blue Ridge Road, is owned by Jim Messick). For the past 61 years, Hi-Boy has been serving thick milkshakes, golden onion rings and classic smashed burgers. The recipes, Larry Comer says, have not changed since Day One. And why should they have? Burger patties are made with 90 percent lean beef from Independence’s L&C Meat Co., a local butcher shop that’s been supplying Hi-Boy for the past 35 years.

Today, just as in 1957, the burger patties are smashed on the grill and made to order – nothing has ever been frozen. (Not even, Larry says, for the Utah customer who asked for a burger to be deconstructed, packaged in separate containers and shipped to him via FedEx.) Patrons can order single, double or triple “junior” hamburgers and cheeseburgers, as well as quarter-pound and half-pound burgers; these are served with ketchup, pickles and onions. There’s also Hi-Boy Burgers in single, double (pictured left), quarter-pound and half-pound patties. The difference is the toppings: cheese, signature Hi-Boy secret sauce, lettuce, tomato, pickles and onions.

Burgers are Hi-Boy’s claim to fame, but a devoted following also shows up just for the crispy, slightly spicy onion rings. Larry still uses the same batter recipe he inherited from the Kleibers; many people over the years have tried to pry it out of him, he says with a laugh, only to be disappointed by his friendly stonewalling.

There’s especially a fan following for the Peach Nehi float – a treat made with vanilla ice cream and Peach Nehi soda that started as a favorite among Boy Scouts thanks to a small-town general store in Osceola, Missouri. Several times a year, Larry drives more than 100 miles to Scott’s Iconium Store to pick up Peach Nehi so that he can recreate the experience at Hi-Boy. The Peach Nehi float is one of the newer additions that Larry has made to the menu since he and his wife took over the lease in 1991. (Others include mini corn-dog bites and stuffed spuds.) For the most part, though, things haven’t really changed. Hi-Boy has a long history of sponsoring baseball in the community: Former St. Louis Cardinals first baseman Albert Pujols played on the Hi-Boy team in high school in the ’80s. Today, many of the restaurant’s regulars are the kids who played baseball for – or worked at – Hi-Boy growing up. In fact, Larry says, some former employees’ children work for him today, which speaks to Hi-Boy’s sense of community and family.

Larry himself started working at Hi-Boy in 1973 as a high-school junior; at the time, Cheryl worked as a cashier. Now, Cheryl manages the Hi-Boy office while Larry works most days in the kitchen. The Comers’ children worked at Hi-Boy growing up – today, their son manages the Highway 291 location – and the entire extended family has been a part of the business in one way or another. By this point, Larry figures that Hi-Boy is in his blood.

"I never got tired of it," he says. "You think you would, but it’s a big part of my life. I just have a passion for it.” –Natalie Gallagher multiple locations, Independence, Missouri, hiboydrivein.com PHOTO BY LOgAN wADE

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

63

64

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

Drive -in CoMo The arrival of warm weather in Columbia, Missouri, means the return of nostalgic fare from a place where time has all but stood still for the past six decades.

Roll down your window and go back in time at Mugs up Drive-in, as carhops bounce between cars and

the kitchen, bearing silver trays loaded with piles of smashed burgers, cheese fries and frosted mugs of root beer floats. A pastel pink-and-ivory 1956 Dodge LaFemme looks more at home here than a modern SUV, and credit cards are foreign currency – only cash and checks are accepted. Owner Brandon Kewley,

Visit feastmagazine.com for profiles on two more historic smashed-burger joints: Carl’s Drive-in in Brentwood, Missouri, and Town TopiC in Kansas City.

whose grandparents Ray and Edna Kewley first opened the drive-in burger and float joint in 1955, says that’s what makes Mugs Up a beloved fixture in town.

Throughout its 63 seasons, which run from midMarch through October, the only sizable change has been the location, just a stone’s throw away from the original. Mugs Up originally sat on the edge of Business Loop 70, where JJ’s Diner operates today.

Kewley says heavy traffic on the Business Loop caused a couple of close calls with carhops, so his grandfather relocated the building to the south side of the lot. Although more secluded, the move didn’t deter customers, who have flocked to Mugs Up for over half a century. “I was in a pinch and had to carhop one day – and I hadn’t carhopped in over a decade,” Kewley says. “I had customers that I used to wait on when I was a teenager, and they remembered me.

That was amazing.”

The restaurant is the last remaining in a chain of 60 original drive-ins that operated under the same name, although a few others remain with much changed menus and concepts; the Kewleys only ever owned the Columbia outpost. The family has retained ownership, passing the business down through three generations as they’ve done with their closely guarded recipes.

“I’ve been making the root beer since I was 12,” Kewley says. “That’s the first thing they trusted me to learn.

I didn’t start making the chili until I was in my 20s, because that was my dad’s thing.”

Root beer arrives in a frosted glass, tapped fresh from the canister where it’s made just feet away.

Fan favorites include the chili, heaped onto a hot dog and topped with onions and cheese. Other Mugs Up originals include the Zip Burger; named for its speedy preparation, the Zip is piled high with loose meat – more Sloppy Joe than burger patty. Its fame comes from both its flavor and preparation: The ground beef is boiled – not grilled – in batches, then drained of grease and mixed with a secret blend of spices. The standard Zip comes with mustard, pickles and onion, but can be upgraded to a Cheese Zip, (pictured right) slathered in cheese sauce. –Jessica Vaughn 603 Orange St., Columbia, Missouri, facebook.com/mugsupdrivein phOTOS By KEITh BORgMEyER

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ly 2 018

65

Kala Russell is the new beverage director for the Jalili family’s restaurant group, which includes Touch Restaurant & Oyster House, Flame Steakhouse and Black Sheep Burgers & Shakes in Springfield, Missouri. Russell, formerly bar manager at Missouri Spirits, joined the Jalili team to develop the bar program for Chops, the family’s latest restaurant, and revamp bar menus at all of their beloved spots. Russell also owns The It Co. Events, Spirits and Consulting, which books bartenders for private events. We caught up with her to learn where she likes to spend time in Springfield when she’s off the clock. –Lauren Smith

with Kala Russell beverage director,

jalili restaurants

ImagIne you have one entIre day to dedIcate to dInIng out In SprIngfIeld: Where Would you grab breakfaSt, lunch and dInner, and What Would you be orderIng at each Spot?

A whole day off just to wine and dine myself sounds absolutely amazing! I would start at Mama Jean’s Natural Market with a Bulletproof Keto coffee to get my metabolism ready for the day. Then I’d get brunch at The Order for bottomless Mimosas and The Harvest [salad] with poached figs, Roquefort and hazelnut vinaigrette; it’s the perfect savory and sweet start to the day. I’d also order the pork belly sliders. Lunch would have to be at the new Karai Ramen + Handroll for the Old Skool Ramen with pork. And don’t forget the soft-boiled egg – it totally makes the dish. For dinner, I’d probably go to Avanzare Italian Dining. I typically start with oysters when they have them, and then go for the fish dinner [special] or lamb, paired with a nice big, bold glass of wine. Dinner is always an awesome experience with [chef-owner] Tony [Garcia], and the food is always consistent.

mama jean’S natural market

avanzare ItalIan dInIng

karaI ramen + handroll

the order

Who or What do you belIeve IS a hIdden gem In the SprIngfIeld food Scene?

Cellar + Plate. They work so hard and have such passion for what they do. The small plates are perfect for sharing and they’ve mastered the art of sous vide. Everything is tender, fresh and super tasty. And how about that wine list? They can guide you to the perfect pairing. If you haven’t already, check out the back patio – it’s absolutely lovely. cellar + plate

Where do you go for late-nIght eatS and/or a nIghtcap?

If I’m downtown, usually it’s The Order for the Hurts Donut bread pudding and an Old Fashioned. We also frequent Big Whiskey’s on Republic Road because it’s close to the house, the food is consistent and the drinks are simple; otherwise, why would I leave my awesome home bar and back deck?

What’S currently your favorIte meal at a local reStaurant?

Touch Restaurant & Oyster House’s lounge menu gets my vote because I can snack and have all my favorites: oysters on the half shell, ceviche, tuna tartare and tacos.

Who In the local reStaurant Scene InSpIreS you?

I’m pretty giddy about this new wave of pop ups that has hit our scene within the past couple of years. Progress, Canvas, Element – all of those guys have proven their spot in the Springfield food scene and are really creating experiences for their guests. Inspiration for them comes from local farmers, produce and their travels – that’s something to get behind.

66

feastmagazine.com

july 2 0 1 8

“I’d get brunch at The Order for bottomless Mimosas and The harvest [salad] with poached figs, roquefort and hazelnut vinaigrette; it’s the perfect savory and sweet start to the day.” touch reStaurant & oySter houSe

bIg WhISkey’S

element

Inspired Local Food Culture

j u ne 2 017

67

68

feastmagazine.com

jun e 2 0 1 7