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WELCOME TO OUR MARCH
issue and the first signs of spring. It’s a glorious time of year, full of hope and anticipation and here at Feast Towers, where, as Emma,our deputy editor, and I are dog owners, we’re looking forward to getting out into all our wonderful countryside in the daylight with our hounds! March sees Mothering Sunday and we celebrate this special day with recipes from telly favourite Rachel Allen. We also have a charming piece from Nina Fowler, a local artist, who tells us all about her wedding day, and the rather lovely food that she and her hubby enjoyed! We visit Water’s Edge at Bramerton, near Norwich, which has a glorious setting, and catch up with Galton Blackiston of Morston Hall who has a new cookbook coming out in May - all about fish, of course. I’ve enjoyed checking out two new places - The Brisley Bell, twixt Dereham and Fakenham, and Farmyard in Norwich’s Lanes - and I’m happy to recommend both! It’s always great to see new places opening up with thoughtful menus - using local produce, of course! Andy Newman shops at Coxfords in Aylsham where Johnny and Jason are great characters, as well as terrific butchers, and we also find a bit more about Ferndale Farm cheeses where the Betts family use raw milk in their products. Congratulations to our columnist Charlie Hodson who triumphed in a national sausage roll competition, and another of our columnists, wine expert Steve Hearnden, is asking for a little feedback this month so don’t miss his food and wine pairing piece. Finally, don’t forget to enter our great competition with Byron, a new restaurant, at intu Chapelfield. Yet another new place to try! Happy reading.
In this issue -
C O N T E N T S
A R FO
L EA M
FOOD & DRINK
H IC RW O N
Say che ese with Fer nda le Far m
Stayc £3.50 WHeRe SOLD MA RCH 2017
GALTON BLACKISTON'S NEW COOKBOOK
COVERY STOR 9 772397 167017
28 Emma Outten heads to Morston Hall to interview Michelin starred chef patron, Galton Blackiston, in this, the North Norfolk hotel and restaurant’s 25th anniversary year
Dining Out rmyard at Fa
03 Editor’s letter 76 How to subscribe
yummy recipes to try
31 Galton Blackiston of Morston Hall shares a rhubarb dessert with us
16 Discover the best food and drink events coming up in our part of the region 18 The news and gossip round-up – we’ve got it covered!
06 Sarah Hardy profiles the new Brisley Bell, between Dereham and Fakenham, where the owners have big plans 10 Water’s Edge at Bramerton, near Norwich, enjoys a stunning setting and offers food with a twist 23 Norfolk-based artist Nina Fowler tells us all about the food she selected for her Wedding Breakfast 51 Richard Graveling, partner at The Grove in to try the history and hopes of this familyrecipes shares 17 yummy Cromer, run hotel
43 The new Farmyard restaurant in Norwich serves up ‘bistronomy’. Sarah Hardy finds out what this means
20 In our New Faces feature, we speak to Candice Molineux of Fishley Hall, an up and coming perfect place for retreats and weddings, by the Norfolk Broads 32 In our latest City College Norwich feature, Emma Outten meets Curriculum Programme Manager in Hotel Hospitality, Catering and Tourism, Joe Mulhall 35 For our Anglia Farmers feature, Sarah Hardy finds out all about Ferndale Farm Cheeses, all made with raw milk 40 For our Artisan Producer feature, we profile Green Farm Coffee, and let’s just say that Norwich City Football Club are big fans! 42 Rise and shine with our gadgets and gizmos page as it’s all about breakfast bowls and the like 54 Andy Newman visits Coxfords Butchers in Aylsham for his latest Shop Front feature 64 Jarrold’s suggests more cookbooks including James Martin’s French Adventure 90 Julia Martin has the Last Bite as she tells us about Norwich-based Purple Plum Catering
©2017 JOHN SCOTT BLACKWELL. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
28 PICTURE BY
31 Galton Blackiston offers us cannelloni of crab and avocado with elderflower mayonnaise plus elderflower and vanilla panna cotta with rhubarb sorbet and poached rhubarb 47 Sara Matthews keeps mum in mind this month by offering gluten free scones and cookies 48 Wallis Hubble serves a slice of relatively healthy carrot, parsnip and pistachio cake in time for Mothering Sunday, for our reader recipe 61 Celebrity chef Rachel Allen dishes up Smoked Haddock, Black Pudding and Leek Gratin and more from her new book 86 Ellen Mary serves up Moroccan style cauliflower couscous
66 Lacons Brewery discusses the growing popularity of keg beer and how it is viewed by CAMRA 68 Our wine writer Andy Newman sees life through rose tinted glasses this month
38 Artisan baker Steve Winter charts the rise and rise of real bread in this month’s column 39 Charlotte Gurney focuses on this month’s market at her beloved White House Farm 50 Sarah Ruffhead offers us another five of her
best eats for the month 56 Chris Solt of Lovewell Blake advises food producers to get personal with their customers 57 Charlie Hodson is on a roll this month – he only won a national sausage roll making competition with Norfolk ingredients 71 Our wine expert Steve Hearnden pairs French wine with Norfolk meat – another perfect pairing!
72 Georgia Watson delights in dining out in Dubrovnik 79 Emma Outten heads to The Hero in Burnham Overy Staithe and stays in a romantic room with a view 82 Find out about a luxury new boat for hire on The Broads - designed with couples in mind
GROW YOUR OWN
86 Ellen Mary tells us how to care for cauliflower this month 88 Our new columnist, Rachel Birtwhistle, is getting to grips with the weeds on her new allotment
70 Win a meal for four at one of Norwich’s newest restaurants, Byron, at intu Chapelfield
Sarah Hardy, Editor email@example.com Emma Outten, Deputy Editor firstname.lastname@example.org Scott Nicholson, Designer email@example.com Rachael Young Senior Account Manager | 07900 823731 firstname.lastname@example.org Hannah McKinney Senior Account Manager | 07917 122829 email@example.com Geoff Clark Senior Account Manager | 07776 233659 firstname.lastname@example.org
Charlotte Gurney, Steve Hearnden, Chris Solt, Andy Newman, Sarah Ruffhead, Sara Matthews, Rachel Birtwhistle, Ellen Mary, Steve Winter, Georgia Watson, Julia Martin, Nina Fowler, Charlie Hodson
FEAST NORFOLK MAGAZINE is published by Feast (Eastern) Limited - 21 Market Place, Dereham, Norfolk NR19 2AX
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Itâ€™s not often you write about pubs reopening but Norfolk has a stunning new one, deep in the Breckland countryside. Sarah Hardy calls by PICTURES BY
Brisley Bell -
F E A T U R E
at Brisley, between Dereham and Fakenham, sits on the edge of the village common and is a handsome sight. Dating back 300 years, it shut in 2014 and its future looked unclear until two locals, Amelia Nicholson and Marcus Seaman, decided to do something about it.
MARCUS EXPLAINS: ‘We used to drink here and really loved having a local. We missed it - it was a big part of community life.’ After lavishing considerable time and effort on the pub, more of which later, it reopened in mid February to much critical acclaim. Marcus says: ‘We want it to become a ‘proper’ pub, somewhere with great food and plenty of atmosphere.’ The transformation is impressive. There is a large extension to the rear; and much landscaping is going on but wow, the interiors are something special. They have been done with real panache by Amelia, whose background is in the theatre in London, and just oozes good taste. It is very eclectic, with much use of reclaimed materials and furniture, and bold use of colours and soft furnishings. There are chandeliers, quirky prints, even pews from Sedgeford Church! Do, for example, spot wonderful feathery wallpaper in the bar, a tapestry in the Green Room and the best duck motif curtains, too! There are several different areas inside the pub, each with its own character, but all equally attractive. The main bar area, dominated by the leather-panelled bar itself (look out for the copper bar top), is where you’ll find a large open fire, then there’s the snug, again with an open fire and a leather Chesterfield to relax in, the Green Room, a perfect dining area, and the book-lined Garden Room, which opens onto the garden.
Brisley Bell -
F E A T U R E
This all brings us on to the food, with Herve Stouvenel, from Alsace in France, in charge of a five-strong team in the kitchen. As you’d expect, the Michelin-trained chef is keen to use produce from the surrounding fields, and the nearby coastline. The menu is highly seasonal and will change every six weeks. He’s also using well known local producers and suppliers such as Swannington Farm to Fork, English Whisky, and Norfolk Quail. Dishes at present include Brancaster mussels, smoked haddock and horseradish pate, braised ox cheeks in a red wine sauce, pan fried calf liver, and roasted guinea fowl. Puddings include a flourless chocolate and almond cake. Wines are from Peter Graham, a Norwich-based wine merchant, and, as The Bell is a freehouse, there are several beers on offer, including Adnams, and local micro-breweries, such as Norfolk Brewhouse, are well represented. Look out for artisan spirits such as Black Shuck gin, too. The dynamic couple have plans to develop the garden area further, with a play area for children, a croquet lawn, as well as glamping on the twoacre site as the better weather arrives. Further plans exist for the conversion of three barns into six bedrooms. They also want to hold a craft fayre and a food fayre so watch this space. The pub is dog friendly and opens from 11am-11pm Tuesday to Saturday, and 11am-10pm on Sunday. It is closed on Mondays.
What we ate:
Rachael, from our sales team, and I were lucky enough to attend a preview evening where we tried a good selection of dishes on offer. I started with grilled scallops with Jerusalem artichokes and Serrano ham which was a delicate dish that got your taste buds going. I then had roasted cod with a saffron and mussel sauce, spinach and new potatoes. The fish was nice and firm, indicating its freshness, and went well with the spinach. Rachael opted for a goodly big bowl of mussels which she demolished pretty quickly, followed by a venison burger which almost defeated her! I helped out with the fat chips. We finished with a lime crème brûlée for her and passion fruit, honey and mango pavlova for me - a real favourite! I’d say that the menu was ambitious, without being pretentious, and it’s always great to see so much local produce on offer!
Water`s Edge -
S P O T L I G H T
Waterâ€™s Edge Bar & Restaurant
in Bramerton near Norwich offers the freshest of food and arguably Norfolkâ€™s largest selection of wines by the glass - plus a spectacular view of the Norfolk Broads. Emma Outten meets Chef Owner Lee Webb www.watersedgewoodsend.co.uk
CHEF OWNER LEE WEBB opened Waterâ€™s Edge Bar and Restaurant in Bramerton, situated on a tight bend in the River Yare, four years ago this month.
S P O T L I G H T
PRIOR TO RETURNING to East Anglia he had spent 15 years surrounded by an altogether different stretch of water: the Caribbean Sea, as Lee had worked in the Cayman Islands for a group of companies which had three restaurants within its (largely construction) portfolio. When he came home he decided to marry up both the restaurant and construction business and take on renovating what had been the Wood’s End pub in Wood’s Side, Bramerton, just a few miles outside of Norwich. It would be fair to say that the building, which dates back to at least 1700, had seen better days since its heyday as a Victorian tea room, and Lee set about transforming it into a ‘destination restaurant’. With its leather bar stools and tables laid out ready for diners to enjoy the à la carte menu in front of a large window in the River View Room, the interior is barely recognisable compared to its previous incarnation. Nowadays, the bar/restaurant caters for 80 covers inside, and the extensive new decking, both by the water’s edge and to the side of the building, is about to come into its own. Lee says: ‘Outside we can get 400 or 500 people turn up in the summer, and they all want feeding, which is why we have an outdoor kitchen.’ When it comes to the food offering, Lee says: ‘I wanted to do something with a difference, so I brought back the Caribbean influence - we do a lot of jerk and fresh fish dishes.’
LEE WEBB & GIUSEPPE LONGORDO
CALLEBAUT CHOCOLATE TART
R E C I P E
Callebaut Chocolate Tart INGREDIENTS 250g of 70 per cent Callebaut chocolate, chopped into pieces; 150ml of double cream; 200ml of milk; 5 eggs; 250g of butter; 250g of caster sugar; 500g of plain flour
METHOD To make the pastry base, take the butter at room temperature and mix with the sugar. Add the flour and rub the ingredients together until crumb-like. Create a well in centre of the mix and crack 2 of the eggs into it. Slowly work the eggs into the mixture until it forms a smooth dough. Wrap in cling film and leave to rest in fridge for 24 hours. Once rested, roll out on a cold surface to a thickness of 4mm and line a 20cm diameter tart case with it. Leave to chill in a fridge for a further 2 hours. Heat the oven to 170°C/gas mark 3. Add baking beans to the tart and blind bake the tart case for 20 minutes. Remove the baking beans and cook for another 15 minutes with the surface exposed until pastry is crisp. Now make the tart filling: Heat up the milk and cream in a pan and pour over the chocolate. Mix until the chocolate is melted. Gently work the remaining 3 eggs into the chocolate mix until it is completely smooth. Pour the mix into the case and bake for 45 minutes at 90°C or the lowest gas mark your oven will go. Allow to rest and serve at room temperature
TURN OVER FOR MORE RECIPES!
He adds: ‘Our food is delivered on a daily basis so it is fresh.’ Lee uses local suppliers, including Spurgeons butchers, based in Brooke, Ronaldo Ices, Swannington Farm to Fork, Easters of Norwich fruit, veg and dairy wholesalers. ‘They are the main ones,’ says Lee. Needless to say, there’s a strong taste of Norfolk on the menu. As for drink, the international wine list is supplied by Bibendum, and has been handpicked by Lee (‘it took me three weeks to put together and several meetings’). What he is particularly proud of is the range of wines by the glass he offers, in either 125ml, 175ml or 250ml: with a dozen white wines, and nearly as many reds, he has quite possibly the largest selection of wines by the glass in Norfolk, thanks to the awardwinning Le Verre de Vin system, which is firmly established as the industry standard in wine preservation. Behind the bar is a modular wineby-the-glass cabinet, called a Pod Bar. What made him in invest in it? ‘It’s important for wine pairing,’ says Lee. ‘You can pair up your starter, your main, your dessert or your cheese board, all with different wines.’ Former Executive Chef at the UEA, Giuseppe Longordo, has recently joined the team at Water’s Edge, ready for the upcoming season. Bringing with him another international influence, as Lee says: ‘We’ve got the Italian influence kicking in as well as the Caribbean influence. When it comes to fresh fish, he’s your guy.’
DISTILLED IN NORWICH, VOTED BEST LONDON DRY GIN IN THE UK Bullards is a name that is synonymous with the brewing heritage of Norwich which all began at the Anchor Brewery in 1837. Bullards have established Norwich’s first distillery in 150 years. Award winning handcrafted Norwich Dry Gin is made in small batches using a traditional copper pot still. Pure grain spirit is infused with the subtle aromatic influence of tonka beans and nine secret botanicals to produce a clean, crisp, balanced premium gin.
WWW.BULLARDSSPIRITS.CO.UK Bullards Norwich Dry Gin is available across Norfolk from the following: Jarrolds, Reno Wines, Bakers & Larners, Roys, Harper Wells, The Green Grocers, Scrummy Pig, Thornham Deli, Norfolk Deli, Cromer Farm Shop, Satchells of Burnham Market, Majestic Wines, Makro and the most discerning pubs, bars, restaurants and hotels across the region.
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Water`s Edge BEEF FILLET & LOBSTER
R E C I P E
Beef Fillet & Lobster INGREDIENTS For beef fillet 400g of British beef fillet; salt and pepper; vegetable oil For salmon mousse 50g of salmon, diced; ½ a clove of garlic; 1 egg white; 100ml of double cream; salt; 1 pinch of five-spice powder For lobster 2 500g lobsters (prepared); 1tbsp of chives, chopped; salt and pepper For pasta dough 250g of pasta flour; 6 egg yolks; 1 pinch of salt For the ravioli 1 egg yolk, beaten For the dauphinoise purée 200g of potato; 300ml of double cream; 1 garlic clove; salt and pepper To plate 4 slices of butter; 4 baby carrots/ leeks/turnips/ beetroots, all peeled; 4 asparagus, peeled
METHOD Trim any excess off the fillet with a sharp knife then roll it tightly in Cling Film around 10 times and place in fridge. Place the salmon in a food processor along with the garlic and purée together; slowly add the egg whites while the machine is running until they’ve been incorporated. Remove from the blender and gradually push through a sieve. Wash the blender and place the salmon back into it. Gradually add the cream. Remove from the blender and season with salt and five-spice. Using a sharp knife, cut the lobster tails into small dice and place the meat into a mixing bowl. Add two spoons of the salmon mousse to the lobster, gently add the chives and set to one side. Check the seasoning. For the pasta dough, sieve the flour and place in a bowl. Add the egg yolks and the salt and gently mix together until all the ingredients form a ball. Remove the dough from the bowl and knead with your hands for 10 minutes or until the dough appears to be smooth and lump free. Wrap in Cling Film and place in a fridge for 1 hour. For the ravioli, roll out the pasta – start at the largest setting and work down to the lowest. Using a plain pastry cutter make 8 discs. Place four in front of you and add a spoonful of the lobster and salmon mix into centre. Using a pastry brush, brush around the edges with egg yolk to form a seal when they cook, then place other discs on top and gently seal down pushing out all the air and forming a flying saucer shape. Place in fridge until needed. For the dauphinoise purée, peel and slice potatoes then place into a saucepan with the remaining ingredients. Bring to boil and simmer until potatoes are cooked. Place a food processor and process until it is silky smooth. If it becomes too thick a little more cream. To serve, preheat the oven to 180°C. Start by cutting 4 even portions of beef fillet – leave Cling Film on. Season and place into a hot sauté pan with a little oil, colouring top and bottom until golden brown (sauté sides of meat without the Cling Film). Place in oven for 5 minutes then remove, slice some butter on top and leave to rest for 2 minutes. Drop the ravioli into simmering salted water for 3 minutes. Remove Cling Film from beef and sauté all the way round until golden brown then remove from pan and leave to rest. In same pan add the lobster claw and vegetables, gently mixing around to warm up and glaze. Place beef fillet in the centre of each bowl or plate, arrange vegetables around and sit lobster claws on top of each. Remove ravioli from water then sit on top of lobster claw, spooning over a little of the purée
S P O T L I G H T
R E C I P E
Tuna Escabeche INGREDIENTS 250ml of olive oil; 1 carrot, finely sliced into discs; 1 small onion, finely sliced; 1 small red onion, finely sliced; 3 cloves of garlic, finely sliced; 100ml of white wine; 50ml of white wine vinegar; 1 whole lemon, juiced; 300ml of water; 200g of sea salt; 200g of caster sugar; 1tsp of freshly ground pepper; 2tsp of fresh coriander leaves; 2tsp of lemon juice; 12cm x 4cm piece of fresh yellowfin tuna; 2tsp of Dijon mustard; 2tsp of fresh mixed herbs (tarragon, coriander, chervil and flat leaf parsley), chopped
METHOD For the Escabeche Take a heavy based saucepan, add 100ml of the olive oil and the carrot and cook gently for 5 mins. Add the onion, red onion, garlic and cook for a further 5 mins. Add to the pan the white wine, white wine vinegar, 150ml of the olive oil then simmer for 1 hour, remove from heat and, once cooled, add the lemon and season to taste For the Tuna First of all make the marinade: take a pan and add the water, sea salt and caster sugar, heat this to dissolve and remove from heat, allow to cool then stir in the freshly ground pepper, fresh coriander leaves and lemon juice, then chill. Take the piece of fresh yellowfin tuna (you can use any trimmings for a nice tuna Nicoise salad), and place in the marinade for 1 and a 1/2 hours, then remove and wash under cold water to stop the citrus cooking method. Pat dry and roll in Cling Film, to shape, for 1 hour. Remove Cling Film and briefly pan fry the tuna in a teaspoon of olive oil, roll it in the pan to sear - 20 seconds tops. Remove from the pan and drain on a paper towel, then rub with Dijon mustard and roll in a fresh chopped herb mix of tarragon, coriander, chervil and flat leaf parsley then wrap tightly in Cling Film and chill until required. To plate, lay a bed of the Escabeche on the plate and cut the tuna in equal slices and place on top; add garnish as preferred or as depicted by the picture
h c r a M What's On
MOTHER’S VIP PACKAGE
The Norfolk Deli in Hunstanton is holding the first North Norfolk Marmalade making awards on March 11. Ali Barwick, owner of Seasons Bounty, will judge, along with co-owner, Rosie Kacary. This being Seville Orange season, Mark Kacary says it was the ideal opportunity to encourage people to try their hand at making their own marmalade and enter this ‘just for fun’ awards. Deliver your marmalade to the Deli by March 10, and include your name and contact details. Visit www.norfolk-deli.co.uk
TEA AND CAKE
Mothering Sunday on March 26 is the perfect time to treat your mother to a visit to the splendid Gayton Hall gardens near King’s Lynn, which is opening as part of the National Gardens Scheme in Norfolk. Plus there will be the added bonus of tea and homemade cake. Visit www.ngs.org.uk
UK author Elizabeth Haynes comes to Briarfields Hotel, Titchwell, on March 12, and will talk about her writing career, her upcoming book and give a Q and A before signing copies of her books. Tickets include Briarfields' Afternoon Tea. Visit briarfieldshotelnorfolk.co.uk
And don't forget...
There promises to be an informal evening of fun, food and French wine in the company of Steve Hearnden from Tastebuds Wines and James Conway Head Chef at Barnham Broom, on March 4. The evening will start by Steve guiding diners through a tutored wine tasting, then going on to dinner in the private dining room. Visit www.barnham-broom.co.uk
Enjoy a wonderful Gin Evening at the Loddon Swan on March 23 with Bullards Independent Spirits, makers of the fantastic Norwich Gin, who will take you through the history, flavours and tastings of different gins answering all your questions along the way. The ticket price per person is inclusive of all drinks during tasting, offers on gin and tonics on the bar after. Visit www.loddonswan.co.uk
Join the Bure Valley Railway for a special train and lunch package on Mothering Sunday, March 26. Starting from Wroxham, experience the magic of steam through nine miles of Norfolk countryside before arriving at Aylsham. On arrival receive a complimentary drink and sit down to a two-course set lunch, including coffee and mints, at the Whistlestop. Visit www.bvrw.co.uk
Roll up, roll up for entertainer Brian Conley at Potters on March 19 for a night of comedy, music and chat. As well as live evening entertainment in the state-ofthe-art Atlas Theatre, followed by dancing and music in the Terrace Bar, One Night weekend breaks include comfortable accommodation, a five course dinner with selected wines, a midnight dish, and breakfast the following morning. Visit www.pottersholidays.com
Deepdale Spring Market takes place from March 24 to 26. Dalegate will host more than 50 artisans and producers (including food and drink producers) in two large marquees, the beach hut pop up shops and many outside stalls. And Deepdale café will be open throughout the weekend. It is part of the Deepdale Hygge, a celebration of the North Norfolk coast. Visit www.dalegatemarket.co.uk
The Farmers' Market at Sandringham Visitor Centre Restaurant on March 26 offers local produce, including meat, fish, shellfish, fruit and vegetables and home-made cakes, plus plenty more. There's no entry charge, so why not come along and pick up some local supplies? Visit www.sandringhamestate.co.uk
As we march into March, Emma Outten takes a look at food and drink events in and around the county FARMERS' MARKET
The newest Farmers' Market in Norfolk is the Norwich Farmers' Market at Costessey, which takes place on the second and fourth Sundays of the month. It offers local produce and high quality food at an affordable price. The next one is on March 12 at The Costessey Centre in Longwater Lane. Visit www.norwichfarmersmarket.co.uk
SPECIAL BOAT TRIP
Treat mum to a trip on the Norfolk Broads this Mother's Day, March 26. Your skipper will give a live commentary; explaining the origins of the Broads and pointing out the fabulous wildlife and other points of interest. All mums accompanied by their children will be given a lovely glass of wine, plus there will be light refreshments and licensed bar available. Visit www.broadstours.co.uk
Norfolk Wine School is holding a four week Spain and Italy Discovery course starting on March 7. The course, based at St Andrews Brew House in Norwich, has lots of interesting little features, including a mini Chianti masterclass, a mini Rioja Masterclass and some Tapas and Sherry matching. Visit www.norfolkwineschool.com
JARROLD'S LITERARY LUNCH
Enjoy a Dirty Dancing tribute act, a three-course evening meal and then disco into the early hours at Dunston Hall on March 31. There’s also a residential package available, including accommodation, VIP arrival drink, the meal, all the entertainment, VIP seats near the front and full English breakfast. Visit www.qhotels.co.uk
Join Jarrold’s for one of the highlights of its book eve nt calendar, at the Spring Literary Lunch on March 22 at Top of the Terrace, Norwich City Football Club. The Literary Lunche s are the perfect way to hea r great authors speaking about their recently published books and this time Jarrold’s is delighted to welcome Joanna Trollop e, Mick Herron and Simon Thurley. Tickets include a two course lunch and coffee.
Remember we featured Monica Galetti’s recipes in November’s Feast Norfolk? Well, she opens her first eagerly anticipated restaurant this month, alongside husband David Galetti. Located in London’s Fitzrovia, Mere – pronounced Mary - is the long-term personal dream of the Galettis. Joining Monica in the kitchen will be long-term colleague and Head Chef Renée Miller.
Ne ws and Gossi p ACTION STATIONS
We’re looking forward to trying The Station Smokehouse, the new wood-fire grill restaurant in the heart of the Norfolk Broads. Handmade burgers, smoked meats galore, mega steaks, whole fish and more are all cooked over live fire – what’s not to like? Find it by Hoveton and Wroxham Station Platform. www.thestationsmokehouse.com
ORGANIC SERVED HERE
The Soil Association has just launched a brand new award for restaurants to show their commitment to sourcing organic food, called Organic Served Here. With more people looking for organic food, the scheme is a fantastic way to celebrate a restaurant’s commitment to using organic ingredients. Keep up the good work!
New restaurants, new products and charity cookbooks – Emma Outten has got it covered in this month’s food and drink round-up CHARITY COOKBOOK
A Norwich church, St Thomas, has produced a cookbook to raise cash for orphans in Sierra Leone in Africa. Called Sweet Treats, it has 60 recipes from a wide variety of people including a 70-year-old church goer and the Bishop of Norwich. All cash raised goes to Street Child, a British-based charity which helps young people who have lost their parents. Visit www.stn.org.uk
FISH BAR SUPERSTAR
Duane Dibartolomeo - one half of the hugely successful Grosvenor Fish Bar team in Norwich - has reached finalist status in the 2017 VisitEngland Awards for Excellence in the Tourism Superstar category. Nominated by VisitNorwich for delighting customers with his unofficial advice about where to visit and shop in Norwich, the annual award is supported by The Daily Mirror, and celebrates people who go above and beyond in a tourism role. Visit www. mirror.co.uk/tourismsuperstar
Truly Local, on Stalham’s High Street, is celebrating its sixth birthday by offering 10 per off purchases bought from March 20-25 - as long as you say ‘happy birthday’. The not-for-profit social enterprise sells only goodies produced within a 40-mile radius, including drink, fresh produce and groceries. Look out for its internal facelift, too.
Strattons Hotel in Swaffham has two lovely Mothering Sunday treats. On the big day itself, March 26, there's a special lunch at £29 per person including three courses, coffee and petit fours with a little gift for mum. And on March 25 and 26, afternoon tea is available from noon to 4.30pm, at £18 per person, which includes a selection of four mini cakes, perhaps chocolate and rose delice, rhubarb and custard tart, spiced ginger cake and a delicious choice of savoury bites including smoked mackerel pate on homemade toasted sourdough and mini veggie rolls. To book, visit www.strattonshotel.com
A BIRD IN HAND
(Pictured below) Woolf & Bird, which began as a pop-up at Norwich Lanes fair in 2015, bringing free-range fried chicken to Norwich for the first time, has come home to roost in Exchange Street, Norwich. The sister restaurant to Woolf & Social will include a cocktail and wine bar serving bespoke pairings with the five different styles of fried chicken on the menu. Visit www.woolfandbird.co.uk
Fit For Royalty
EGG FREE MAYO (Pictured right)
Crush Foods, the cold pressed rapeseed oil producers based in Salle, have just launched a mayonnaise (£2.95) with a twist. Not only is it egg free, it is gluten free and completely vegan! The product is 300g and comes available in Garlic or Chipotle – we can’t wait to try it. Visit www.crush-foods.com
We’re already fans of the King’s Head in Letheringsett, now part of Anglian Country Inns, and so we’re particularly looking forward to trying the new Kings Bar, with local real ale – such as Moon Gazer and snacks from the Kings Kitchen. Plus it will be holding new monthly ‘drink while you think’ quiz nights (next one on March 12) and pie and pudding nights (March 29).
Camplings Linen, which offers linen hire and laundry services to hotels, restaurants and other businesses, has unveiled a new £5 million commercial laundry in Great Yarmouth. It’s increased capacity by 25 per cent and is now capable of processing 500,000 items, such as napkins, towels and table cloths, per week. Two of Norfolk’s best-known chefs, Roger Hickman and Richard Hughes, were at the launch. Visit www.camplings-linen.co.uk
The Sunday Times food magazine February 2017
IN THE TOP 100
WAYNE COOKS FOR KIDS
Wayne Sleep, seen recently in the panto, Jack and the Beanstalk, here in Norwich, is one of several celebrities who have contributed a recipe to Cooks & Kids 3, a new cookbook edited by MasterChef judge Gregg Wallace. It sees enthusiastic young cooks team up with top chefs to bring their recipes to life. The brainchild of the National Fostering Agency Group (NFA), there are 50 recipes, including Wayne’s Cornish pasty dish, to enjoy. All proceeds go to Place2Be, a charity which provides emotional and therapeutic services in primary and secondary schools nationwide. Visit www.cooksandkids.com
The Boars at Sp s a refurbished Wymondham, ha op you might sh snug and coffee t, and keep an like to try and ou inter Warmer W e eye out for th iced ers very well pr menu, which off , with es ch lun s se ur two or three co chef and £24 - and a drink, for £19 ent. es pr at e fir on Mark Elvin is oars.co.uk Visit www.theb
THE TOP 100 Our pick of Britain’s best restaurants
Shaun Kent, Head Chef at The White Lodge in Attleborough, and his partner Sally, are voluntarily ‘going veggie’ for a month so he can improve the pub’s offering to diners with special dietary requirements. Shaun has been at the pub since it reopened under new owners, Victoria and Grahame MacDonald, last August, and wants to use his experience to liven up the veggie/ gluten-free provision on their menu. Visit www.thewhitelodge -attleborough.co.uk
Congratulations must go to the two Norfolk restaurants which are featured in The Sunday Times Top 100 Restaurants supplement: Morston Hall and Benedicts in Norwich. Morston Hall was praised for serving a tasting menu which changes each day, featuring dishes such as Brancaster mussels with perry and lovage, whilst Benedicts was praised for its modern British menu.
Fishley Hall -
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A RUSTIC RETREAT
Fishley Hall, set in 350 acres of beautiful Norfolk countryside, is
becoming a perfect place for retreats as well as weddings. Emma Outten chats to Business Manager Candice Molineux PICTURES BY
YOU KNOW HOW SOME THINGS just seem to evolve organically? When Candice and Phil Molineux were planning their wedding, in 2007, they didn’t have to look any further than the farm where they lived by the Norfolk Broads and it has since evolved into an idyllic family business. Having decided to get married in St Mary's church on the farm in Fishley, near Acle, they then realised that the wedding reception venue was standing right in front of them: the old grain barn, which had not been used for some time. They cleared it out first, of course! As a result of their wedding day, word soon began to spread about the barn – which dates back to around 1750 and was used for storing and drying wheat and barley until 2002 (nowadays it can hold up to 200 people). Candice describes its charm: ‘It’s a really rustic barn, we’ve done nothing to it and I like it that way.’ Candice adds: ‘With every wedding you have it brings a hundred or more people to it and then word spreads. W only do15 weddings a year to keep it personal and unique, giving brides plenty of time to set up and clear away their dream wedding.’ Candice has developed a list of preferred suppliers to recommend to people. ‘The weddings bring some lovely caterers to our barn,’ she says. They include Brasteds, Oyster Catcher Catering and Newmarket Hampers, to name but a few.
DARINA STRODA PHOTOGRAPHY
This has all been quite a turnaround in lifestyle for Candice, who worked in hotel management in Spain for years before coming back to Norwich to work as Business Manager at Norwich High School for Girls, and meeting Phil at a salsa dancing class at what was then La Tasca, in Tombland! ‘I was very much a city girl and now I really love the country,’ she says. They have gone on to have a family (Sophia, eight, and William, six) and have since turned their attentions to the house: Fishley Hall, which dates back to 1600. ‘The house was derelict up to four years ago,’ says Candice. ‘It’s been in Phil’s family since 1953 but the last person to live in it was in the 80s and it went to rack and ruin. Phil really wanted to do something with it.’ Work began on renovating it in 2012. ‘It took Phil four years and he did it on his own, with just two friends - he should be very proud of himself,’ says Candice. ‘It’s been an amazing achievement.’ Fishley Hall has eight bedrooms (and so can sleep up to 16) and boasts an open plan kitchen and large dining room – making it perfect for gourmet gatherings. Plus it has its own bar. As well as renting it out for wedding accommodation, it’s perfect for family gatherings, holidays near the Broads, birthdays, corporate events, hen parties (incorporating, for example, a wine tasting or a cookery school), and shoot
parties (the Gamekeeper can organise a day’s shooting for seven to nine guns with advance booking, with lunch and dinner provided at the house). And it is also becoming a perfect place for retreats, with Fishley Hall hosting a successful yoga retreat in the autumn. For the retreats, Candice can recommend a private chef or the retreat organisers can bring their own. Last year, yoga teacher Sally Salmon brought her chef husband Henry along to do the catering and will be doing so again this year. Candice has plans for more retreats at Fishley Hall: ‘I’ve got two yoga retreats this year (the next one takes place this month) and a stand-up paddle retreat on the Broads.’ She continues: ‘I’d like to get four different types of retreats, year on year: yoga and stand-up paddle, plus mindfulness and detox. I’d love to do a detox retreat because we’re perfect for that – we’re in the middle of nowhere.’ Candice and the family live 10 minutes away from the farm. Phil is still an arable farmer, although Candice says: ‘We contract out so he’s not on a tractor all day.’ And she says they are both real foodies: ‘We’re always on the lookout for new places to eat.’ Summing up what they’ve created between them at Fishley Hall, she says: ‘It’s really evolved into this lovely little venue - we are very much a family business and enjoy doing everything ourselves.’
Call 07795 416195
Happily ever after starts here We know that every wedding is special for all the right reasons, that’s why we only hold one wedding a day. This personal experience will ensure your day is what fairy tales are made of. Known to be the oldest hotel in the UK, our historic hotel boasts original features dating back to the 11th Century whilst embracing the styles and trends of today.
We work closely with our future brides and grooms to create bespoke weddings incorporating sensational 2 Rosette standard menus complemented by hand selected wine from our cellar of over 60 wines. We have a variety wedding packages from our “Day To Remember” inclusive package to the more intimate “Petite Package” for smaller celebrations. We will make the wedding of your dreams come true… for your happily ever after
The Maids Head Hotel, 20 Tombland, Norwich, NR3 1LB E: firstname.lastname@example.org T: 01603 272040
F E A T U R E
put food at the heart of her wedding celebrations. Here she tells us all about her big day PICTURE BY
Nina has a new exhibition starting in Norwich this month
The Day Cary Came to Norwich
NINA FOWLER & CRAIG WYLIE
THE FAIRHURST GALLERY, NORWICH March 14 to April 8
Y HUSBAND Craig Wylie and I are practising artists. Craig is a painter and I make drawings and sculpture. We exhibit internationally and are fortunate to have works in both private and public collections, including the National Portrait Gallery. We decided to move from London to Norfolk when our son was born, two years ago. We wanted more space and the way of living which Norfolk has to offer. We love the landscape, the coastline, the good nature of the people who live here and, of course, the food and drink! Craig proposed to me during a trip to South Africa and we were married soon after, at Norwich Castle Registry Office in May 2016.
F E A T U R E
The day was very much centred around food and drink; we did not want a big wedding so we decided to focus on an extra special meal for our closest friends and family. Happily, our favourite restaurant in Norwich, Benedicts, agreed to cater for our party of 25 - despite never having hosted a wedding before. Chef Richard Bainbridge's only condition was that we provide the cake! After the morning ceremony we all walked through the Royal Arcade, by the market and passed a busker singing Bob Dylan’s Simple Twist of Fate, the sun shone and people clapped – everyone was so happy. Upon arriving at the restaurant, our guests raised their glasses of ‘Balfour’, a delicious English sparkling wine, to ‘Mr and Mrs Wylie’. We knew that Benedicts would offer a seasonal menu, sourced from local producers, which is very important to us as Norfolk has so much to offer. Richard even takes his little daughter along with him to forage for some ingredients - such as the wild garlic, which he served that day with new season Norfolk asparagus. Also on our menu was Norfolk crab ravioli with spring cabbage, compressed apple and shellfish bisque. For the main course we enjoyed Norfolk lamb with rosemary roasted cauliflower or stone bass with new season broad beans. The desserts included Richard’s famous ‘Nanny Bush’s trifle’ (the Great British Menu winning dish of 2015) and one of my all time favourites - rhubarb crumble tart with crème fraîche and white pepper sorbet. Along with the classical Spanish guitarist who we hired for the occasion and the speeches from Craig’s best man and my father, it was a truly memorable meal. My mother was in charge of the cake, which she ordered through Waitrose. It was a Fiona Cairns sponge cake, simply but beautifully decorated. Mum was also in charge of my flowers, which included pale pink ranunculus, and wild white flowers - soldier’s buttons picked in the lane on the wedding morning. After lunch, Craig and I were driven by Roy of ‘Fins and Chrome’ in his convertible, vintage Cadillac to Titchwell Manor. All our guests went home with a small painting/drawing from Craig and myself as a wedding favour and a slice of cake for the train back to London. My resounding memory of breakfast the following morning is the baked duck egg and chorizo we were served at Titchwell ... I can still taste it now!
BAKED DUCK EGG & CHORIZO
NANNY BUSH'S TRIFLE
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So where else and what else can put some oomph into your wedding? BRIARFIELDS, TITCHWELL This family-run North Norfolk hotel sits on the marshes, with glorious views out to sea. No more needs to be said - well, maybe just that their seafood is superb, too. Visit www.briarfieldshotelnorfolk.co.uk THE PROPER PIZZA COMPANY We all love a pizza don’t we? Makes a change to endless wedding cake. Visit www.pizza-party.co.uk THE GIN TRAP, RINGSTEAD Meet Felix. The go-getting inn has a rustic little gin van to hire. Well? Rude not to, we reckon. Visit www.thegintrapinn.co.uk BRESSINGHAM HALL AND HIGH BARN, BRESSINGHAM, NEAR DISS Now, the gardens are legendary, we
know. But there’s an ultra trendy barn, designed just for weddings, and the revamped hall. Visit www.bressinghamhall.co.uk NORWICH’S CATHEDRAL OF ST JOHN THE BAPTIST The Cathedral has the most wonderful gardens, a real oasis, right in the heart of the city, that make a stunning backdrop to your photos. There are some impressive rooms at The Narthex to hire out for your reception, and even a tower tour to tackle before the big day. Visit www.sjbcathedral.org.uk CLIFF BARNS, NARBOROUGH, NEAR SWAFFHAM Yeehaw! There’s a touch of the Dallas (remember that fab TV series) to this outstanding complex where
A day by the Norfolk coast We are experts in bespoke coastal weddings, working with couples to design an event that reflects their style and personality. Briarfields can be booked as your exclusive venue, with 23 bedrooms, seated dining for 100-150 and up to 350 for drinks receptions. With prices starting at just £45 per guest, let or a truly memorable day. us create your menu for
Briarfields Hotel, Main Rd, Titchwell, Norfolk PE31 8BB call 01485 210742 o.uk email email@example.com or visit briarfieldshotelnorfolk.co.uk
doing differently is the norm. Visit www.cliffbarns.com HAUTBOIS HALL This wonderfully restored Tudor manor house, not too far from Wroxham, has a great barn available for weddings or you can use the expansive grounds - we love the sound of their twilight ceremonies. Visit www.hautboishall.com SOMERLEYTON HALL We’d all secretly like a stately home wedding, wouldn’t we? Especially when the catering is great, too! Visit www.somerleyton.co.uk THE TUSCAN TEMPLE, BLICKLING HALL, NEAR AYLSHAM It is tiny, but tucked away in the formal gardens, this is for real romantics. Check it out at www.nationaltrust.org.uk
WEDDINGS•PARTIES•EVENTS AND STREET ICE CREAM
THOROUGHLY MODERN ICE CREAM WWW.THETRICICLE.CO.UK
Bespoke wood fired catering for weddings & private events CANAPÉS | ANTIPASTI | PIZZA | DESSERTS
firstname.lastname@example.org | 07901 536709
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South Wedding Venue
For a wedding breakfast with a wow factor - using fresh, seasonal & local produce
Whether you want something really unusual or a new twist on the traditional, we believe we can make your taste buds tingle and impress your guests
Star in the
Morston Hall Hotel and Restaurant in North Norfolk opened 25 years ago, this year. So what better time for Emma Outten to meet Chef Owner Galton Blackiston and talk anniversaries as well as about his new book?
Galton Blackiston -
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OU’D THINK that Michelin starred chef patron Galton Blackiston might have got used to all the accolades over the years, but even he seems taken aback at how they just seem to keep coming this year, Morston Hall’s 25th anniversary year. Not only has the luxury hotel and restaurant been handed a Michelin Star for 18 years running, it was elevated to a score of six in the Good Food Guide rankings, recently scooped a fourth AA Rosette and was once again named in the Sunday Times Top 100 Restaurants. Sitting in one of the conservatories in the intimate country house hotel, Galton says: ‘We’ve never had so many accolades thrown our way.’ And he has a theory as to why: head chef, Greg Anderson. ‘It’s no coincidence that it’s down to the head chef we’ve got now who came to us from the two Michelin starred L’Enclume in Cumbria. His cooking is incredible.’
Galton Blackiston -
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AND THAT’S TO SAY nothing of Galton’s cooking, of course. Galton was born in Hainford and was on the cusp of going to Hellesdon High School (‘I failed my 11-plus’) when the family moved to Kent. As a 17-year-old, he set up stall in Rye market selling his own range of cakes, biscuits and preserves, known as Galton’s Goodies, and then abandoned plans to be a professional cricketer. ‘I sort of fell into cooking like a lot of people did then.’ He ended up as head chef at the renowned Miller Howe in the Lake District, before gaining experience around the world. In 1987 he married Tracy, who he’d met through work (‘she was out front and I was in the kitchen’) and he was soon drawn back to Norfolk. ‘My parents retired and bought a house in Blakeney – where we had always gone on holiday. There was a real pull - I absolutely love it round here.’ Galton and Tracy took charge of Morston Hall in 1992. ‘What we paid for this place you wouldn’t be able to buy a one bed flat in Blakeney now: £235,000.’ ‘It wasn’t like it is now – we didn’t have the conservatories and the kitchen used to be where one of the downstairs bedrooms is now. We started off with four letting rooms and we now have 14 - things have evolved little by little.’ This month, Morston Hall is celebrating 25 years, with special dinner dates on March 7, 10, 14, 17
and 20. ‘We’re going to do a few evenings of dishes we opened up with, in 1992, but sort of modernised and messed about with,’ says Galton, who then recalls: ‘Our first menu was £19.95 for a set four courses, which I suppose even in those days was perceived as quite a lot. Now it’s £75.’ Then, on March 28, there will be a ’25 years of Morston Hall’s favourites’ half-day demonstration. ‘There are some real 90s dishes,’ says Galton. ‘But then that’s the ethos of cooking nowadays – there’s very little that’s new, apart from if you’re Heston, who is a genius. I went to his restaurant a few weeks ago and have never been so blown away.’ What’s Galton’s favourite dish? The answer harks back to his market stall days: ‘Desserts and ice creams. When I buy cookery books I always start at the back and look at the dessert section.’ As for his own books, his fourth, Hook, Line and Sinker, is due to be published in May. It’s all about fish, with Galton explaining why: ‘A bit of it’s to do with No1 Cromer and the eclectic
www.mors tonha ll.com
things they do upstairs.’ Galton owns the award-winning take away and restaurant. The book’s foreword will be written by Michel Roux Senior. On the subject of TV chefs, Galton says: ‘I’ve just done this thing in Manchester called Yes Chef, on the BBC, and the person who judges it is Pierre Koffmann, who is an idol of mine.’ And Galton is still a regular on BBC’s Saturday Kitchen. He says: ‘I love it, it’s a great advertising tool for here.’ There’s another big anniversary to celebrate this year. He and Tracy - who live in Bale with sons, Harry, 23, and Sam, 16 - will be celebrating their 30th anniversary. He says: ‘Tracy wants to go on a safari somewhere. But we’ve only ever been away for a week at a time so we might have to break a rule.’ He says of his wife: ‘I have to say this place wouldn’t be what it is without Tracy, because she is the organiser - I just cook.’ Of his cooking, he says: ‘I never get tired of being in the kitchen because of the vibrancy of cooking nowadays. I think cooking in this decade is potentially a bit lighter - back in the day it used to be double cream and butter everywhere.’ And he never tires of constantly learning: ‘I don’t pretend to know everything about cooking.’ Looking back on the past quarter of a century, he says: ‘There have been peaks and troughs but we’ve never had it so good and it’s a trend I’m wanting to push on with.’
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ELDERFLOWER & VANILLA PANNA COTTA WITH RHUBARB SORBET & POACHED RHUBARB INGREDIENTS Rhubarb Sorbet 500g of rhubarb, trimmed and chopped; zest and juice of 1 orange; zest and juice of 2 lemons; 25g of peeled and finely grated ginger; 400ml of water; 250g of caster sugar; 100ml of grenadine
CANNELLONI OF CRAB & AVOCADO WITH ELDERFLOWER MAYONNAISE
For the Panna Cotta 6 large or 12 small gelatine leaves; 500ml of double cream; 350ml of whole milk; 100g of caster sugar; 1 vanilla pod, split in half, seeds scraped out with a knife; juice of ½ lemon; 200ml of elderflower cordial
©2017 JOHN SCOTT BLACKWELL. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
INGREDIENTS 200g of fresh white crab meat; 1tbsp mayonnaise; 2tbsp of chopped coriander; 3 ripe avocados; lemon juice; seasoning To serve Oven baked mini tomatoes; elderflower mayonnaise
METHOD Carefully pick over the crab meat making sure there is no shell in it, place into a bowl together with the mayonnaise, chopped coriander and a good seasoning of sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper. Spoon the mixture into a piping bag and place in the fridge until needed. Peel the avocados, cut in half, remove the stone and then slice lengthways as thinly as possible. Lay out 6 pieces of cling film on your work surface and along the centre of each piece lay the slices from half an avocado about 20cm in length, slightly overlapping each slice. Sprinkle with lemon juice and lightly season with sea salt. Pipe the crab meat just off centre along the length of the avocado slices and then using the cling film roll up tightly like a sausage and tie each end. Place in the fridge to firm up. Serve with elderflower mayonnaise and oven roasted tomatoes
Hook, Line & Sinke r is due to be publis hed in may
For the poached rhubarb 4/5 stalks of pink rhubarb; 50g of pickled ginger, sliced; 75g of granulated sugar; 60ml of grenadine
METHOD First, make the rhubarb sorbet. Put all the ingredients into a pan and place over a medium heat. Stir to dissolve the sugar and then simmer for about 10-12 minutes until the rhubarb is very soft. Transfer the rhubarb and its juices to a food processor and blend to a purée. Pass the purée through a fine sieve and push down with the back of a wooden spoon or ladle to extract as much juice as possible. Leave to cool completely, then pour the purée into the bowl of an ice-cream machine and churn until almost set. Transfer to a freezer proof container and freeze for at least 4 hours or overnight until the sorbet is set. (If you don’t have an icecream machine, freeze the sorbet in a suitable container for a couple of hours then stir the ice crystals with a fork to break them down. Freeze again and repeat the process 2 or 3 more times). Meanwhile, for the panna cotta; soak the gelatine leaves in a shallow bowl of cold water. Put the double cream, milk and sugar into a saucepan with the vanilla pods and seeds. Bring the creamy milk to a simmer, stirring initially to help the sugar dissolve. When the sugar has dissolved, add the lemon juice and elderflower cordial and take the pan off the heat. Strain the hot mixture through a fine sieve into a bowl. Remove the gelatine leaves from the water, squeezing out any excess water as you do so and add to the hot creamy milk, stir until dissolved. Set the bowl over a larger bowl half-filled with iced water. Stir frequently as the mixture cools and begins to thicken – this helps to distribute the vanilla seeds evenly through the mixture, otherwise they tend to sink to the bottom. When the mixture has thickened slightly but is not yet set, pour it into 6 shallow bowls and chill for at least 4 hours or until set. Next, prepare the poached rhubarb. Cut the rhubarb into 8cm lengths and if they are very thick, halve them into batons about 5mm thick. Place the rhubarb in a bowl with the pickled ginger. Place the sugar and 200ml water in a small pan and dissolve over a medium heat. When the sugar has dissolved add the grenadine and bring to the boil. Add the rhubarb and ginger and leave to simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to allow the rhubarb to steep and cool. Serve the panna cotta with the poached rhubarb and rhubarb sorbet
Managing the Curriculum -
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THE CATERING CURRICULUM VISIT
In our latest feature on the internationally renowned Hotel School at City College Norwich, Emma Outten meets the Curriculum Programme Manager in Hotel Hospitality, Catering and Tourism, Joe Mulhall
THE CURRICULUM Programme Manager within the Hotel School at City College Norwich has seen food trends come and go in his time. But, if you ask Joe Mulhall, the foundations of food will always remain the same. ‘I always believe that cooking is cooking – you’ll always have frying, baking, grilling roasting etc. A fish will always be a fish and vegetables will always be vegetables! ‘And I believe that learning the foundations of cooking is no different to learning how to build a house – if you don’t get the foundations right, you can’t progress.’ Joe has been the Curriculum Programme Manager in Hotel Hospitality, Catering and Tourism for nine years, and, as often seems to be the way of things, studied there himself, back in the day. The 44 year old says: ‘I originally applied for the tourism course, came for the interview and unfortunately was turned down. ‘But I knew I had a keen interest in cooking as well.’ This is not surprising, considering the fact that key members of his family had key cooking roles in the industry, locally: his grandmother at Norwich Airport, his mother at Anglia Television and his father at Bernard Matthews, in product development. On his first day at the Hotel School, his teacher walked into the room and Joe thought: ‘I want your job.’ He recalls: ‘If I’m honest, the Hotel School was my saviour as, from being the average kid at school, I ended up studying a programme that I really enjoyed and it enabled me to progress and develop a whole host of skills - within year one I was hospitality and catering student of the year.’ He also forged firm friendships. ‘We were all as keen as Colman’s mustard to talk, not just in the classroom but away www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk
Head of the Hotel Schoo l, Steve Thorpe, has this update:
IT’S BEEN a busy halfterm, since Christmas, with a team of five producing lunch for 100 at the NEC in Birmingham, at the Great Hospitality Show, where we secured a bronze medal in the junior La Parade De Chefs. In the second week of February three students – Stacey, Meg and Chloe – secured first place in the regional heats of the Country Range Student Chef competition and so this month they will be heading off to the finals in Glasgow, at the Scottish Hospitality and Tourism Show, known as ScotHot. They’ll be representing the East and Central England. That same week The College also underwent its Ofsted review. We are doing a restaurant takeover with Chris Coubrough on March 3 up at the Crown Hotel in Wellsnext-the-Sea on a Friday night – he came to work with our students recently and so this is the return trip. And this month we’ll be at the Norfolk Skills and Careers Festival at the Showground and will also have our apprenticeship awards evening, as part of National Apprenticeship Week. In the run up to Easter we’ll start making Simnel cakes, and the hot cross buns will be coming out. Then the students will have two weeks off for Easter and will move into the main exam season. Once again it is a really busy time for the School.’
from the classroom, about food and we used to eat out together.’ After studying for three years, he and a friend went to work in Germany (‘within six weeks we could understand German’). Then, on returning home, he worked for the Goymour group, the Norfolk family business behind Banham Zoo and Africa Alive. Joe then says: ‘I was fortunate enough to take a position at Anglia TV, looking after celebrity guests and the green room catering.’ He then worked for Channel 4 and Channel 5, in London, before working for a contract company which set about revitalising old office canteens to counteract the new Pret a Manger effect of office workers going out to get lunch. The company then got a school and colleges contract which eventually led Joe back to City College. ‘I was working on the college campus for four years then an opportunity came up as a trainer in the Hotel School. ‘I was really hungry to develop myself within education so I undertook two years of teacher training and was fortunate enough to get my first role as course leader.’ Then the Curriculum Programme Manager post became available, with Joe adding: ‘Since then, I’ve picked up management of the tourism department at the college - I have a keen interest in travel, and I love international food cultures.’ Joe is passionate about the Hotel School and talks about students learning about the artistry of food. ‘Whether you’re a Banksy or a Monet, people do have their own way of painting their culinary picture on a plate. Restaurateurs and chefs are continually developing themselves and that’s also what our college is all about. It certainly allowed me to develop as a person.’
MON* - FRI Lunch 11am-3pm Dinner 6pm-9pm
*Except Monday until April
SAT All day from 11am SUN 11am - 7pm
strattons hotel with self catering, restaurant and café deli
boutique luxurious classic contemporary heart of norfolk award winning restaurant afternoon tea cocoes café deli self catering Luxury without sacrifice to the environment ash close swaffham norfolk pe37 7nh 01760 723845 email@example.com www.strattonshotel.com
FOOD served ALL DAY SUNDAY
We offer freshly created British cuisine and a hand-picked international wine list. Our friendly restaurant & bar offers views of the Norfolk Broads, which are almost as spectacular as the food we serve!
Water’s Edge Bar & Restaurant, Woods End, Bramerton, Norwich, Norfolk, NR14 7ED T: 01508 538005 E: firstname.lastname@example.org
FRIDAY 17TH MARCH
GIN COCKTAILS & TAPAS NIGHT
THE GIN TRAP INN is a traditional and cosy 17th century coaching inn. Serving delicious homemade fare and offering luxurious rooms. Open from 11:30am to late daily
6 High Street, Ringstead, Hunstanton, Norfolk PE36 5JU www.thegintrapinn.co.uk
Kick your weekend off with a gin cocktail masterclass by one of the local Gin distillers whilst tucking into some scrummy Tapas. Only £27 per person (incl. 2 Gin cocktails and tapas!)
SUNDAY 26TH MARCH
MOTHER’S DAY LUNCH
THE WELLS CRAB HOUSE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT
Spoil your Mum with a lunch from our fabulous á la carte menu as well as a glass of bubbly for every mum this Mother’s Day!
38-40 Freeman street WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA CALL US ON 01328 710456 WWW.WELLSCRABHOUSE.CO.UK
Ferndale Farm -
F A R M I N G
! e s a ple mily Making cheese is a fa in affair at Ferndale Farm ers North Norfolk, discov Sarah Hardy
www.fernd alefar mnorf olkche eses.c o.uk
Saving time and money for farmers across East Anglia
01603 881 881 @AngliaFarmers
F A R M I N G
ORFOLK is lucky to boast several artisan cheese producers, with Ellie Betts in North Norfolk among the first. For the past 13 years, she has produced Norfolk Dapple, a strongish hard cheese which is now found in all the best restaurants, delis and the like across the region. Her story is a charming one and shows just how a small cottage industry can take off. Her family farm, Ferndale, in Little Barningham, near Cromer, is a traditional one, with 400 acres of potatoes, wheat, barley, sugar beet and swedes. It is entirely arable, you won’t see a herd of cows, so you could be forgiven for wondering how she came to produce cheese. But Ellie used to look after the farm’s only cow, kept to keep the family self sufficient in milk. A surplus one year saw her decide to make some cheese and the rest, as they say, is history. She found that she both had a knack for cheese-making, and enjoyed it, too. Keen to learn more, she enrolled on a course, and was sufficiently enthused to invest in turning a disused cold store into an artisan-scale cheesery. Fundamental to her cheese making is raw milk from Abbey Farm in nearby Binham, and she currently makes about 45-50kg of Norfolk Dapple a week, making it in 10-12kg cheeses three times a week. They are left to mature for six months or more which helps to develop its characteristic dappled rind, along with a delicious depth of flavour. Although Norfolk Dapple dominates this small-scale producer, Ellie has not stood still, producing occasional specials such as Ruby Dapple (marbled
with port) and Carrow, flavoured with mustard seeds. She even oaksmokes a quantity of Dapple to produce Smoked Dapple. Two years ago, she was joined by her son, Arthur, and his partner Nell Bell. And last year saw them produce a new cheese, Norfolk Tawny, a softer cheese with a firm rind, created by washing the cheese regularly during the maturing process with a thick local ale, Old Stoutwobbler from Beeston Brewery. ‘We wash the cheese three times during the maturing process and we allow it to ripen at exactly the right rate,’ Arthur explains. ‘We have been working on consistency, you have to understand the science - and we are getting there.’ They are slowing expanding their facilities - there’s a new room for storing the cheeses and plans are underway for expanding the sales area, with the cheese on sale in London and the North of England. Arthur, along with Nell, has also attended several cheese making courses, and has visited Italy to look at cheese production there. ‘I’d like to develop a new cheese, perhaps a creamy one,’ he says. ‘And I’d like to work with a chef to help develop it.’ He concludes by saying how his two most popular cheeses can be enjoyed. ‘I like Norfolk Dapple served in a classic way, say cheese on toast, with a splash of Worcestershire Sauce, and I like Norfolk Tawny with a plum chutney - and it is great melted into an omelette!’ You can find Ferndale Farm Cheeses across the region, including Bakers and Larners of Holt. A full list of stockists is available on their website. They also take stands at the Wayland Show and the Aylsham Show.
ELLIE & ARTHUR BETTS, NELL BELL & CRAIG FLOWERDAY
ELLIE GILLARD PHOTOGRAPHY
THE REAL THING Artisan baker
talks about the rise of real bread and the pitfalls of buying faux sourdough
C O L U M N
WITH SO MUCH talk and claims made about artisan or real bread, what actually is it and why is it different? Real bread has been defined by the Real Bread Campaign, which is part of the charity Sustain - an alliance for better food and farming. Their members have been beating the drum for many years now and simply define real bread as: being made without the use of any processing aids or other artificial additives. So why should we care? Bread really only needs just four ingredients; flour, salt, water and yeast (natural or commercial). Anything else in there is really unnecessary, especially the cocktail of chemicals in a mass-produced loaf. That said of course, seeds, milk, butter, fruits and herbs are all a welcome addition to the real baker’s store cupboard. A properly made loaf of real bread will take a minimum of four hours to ferment and bake - usually this will be done by a skilled baker, shaped by hand with only minimal assistance from machinery. Our loaves at Bread Source take at least 12, and up to 32
BREAD SOURCE, Red Lion Street, Aylsham and Upper St Giles, Norwich, visit www.bread-source.com
hours from start to finish, giving the proper time to break everything down, gain flavour and be gentler on our bodies. So when you are buying a whole grain loaf packed full of seeds from us, you can guarantee we have done our best to make something with the best ingredients that will nourish you and be kind to your body while supporting the local food chain. When you go to buy your bread, wherever it is from, please never be afraid to ask the baker or the assistant what's in the bread or, even better, what's not in it! As the ‘artisan’ loaf becomes more and more popular we have the fraudsters on our tails, claiming they are making loaves of sourdough just like ours - and those of all the other hard working artisan bakers up and down this country - when in fact they are adding flavourings and chemicals to try and replicate the look. So don't be duped and check when something claims to be a sourdough, as there is no legal protection at the moment for these claims. Keep your eyes peeled for the 'sour faux'.
RCE is available for events throughout the year wit h our large p ortable woo d fired oven and can ca ter for events and food festiv als
White House Farm -
C O L U M N
Charlotte Gurney reports on the latest news at her expanding family farm on the outskirts of Norwich
WHITE HOUSE FARM, BLUE BOAR LANE, NORWICH TEL 01603 419357 OR VISIT WWW.NORWICH-PYO.CO.UK
Next Farmers’ Market: March 18 from 9.30am
THIS MONTH we'll be holding our much anticipated farmers’ market at the farm. For those of you who have seen the signs around Norwich and wondered what it's all about, this is our best day of the month when we showcase all our favourite producers. These are the local people that adorn the shelves in our shop with their delicious homemade ranges of bread, jam, chutney, cheese, salami and our favourite ales. It's your chance to meet the producers yourselves and find out what makes the food in this county taste so good! All the foodie creators have a taster to try before you buy enabling everyone in the family, (including the dog) to get involved. Meanwhile, in the farmshop, you can enjoy a spot of sausage sampling, choosing from our famous range of flavours, ready to take home your haul. I like to think of it as informative shopping! Enjoy a cuppa in the café with every cup serving our local dairy's milk, Nortons, making it officially the freshest latte in the city. The cows are milked the previous day, just six miles from the farm. March's market is a doubly exciting day as it will be the launch for some of our new shops which have recently joined the site in our newly converted courtyard. Finally, you have somewhere beautiful, close to the city where you can park for free, do your hair, make up, nails, attend a dance class, visit a florist and do some gift shopping; all in the one place. Plus, fingers crossed, we'll have a lovely children's nursery 'on the farm' come April. So get the family out of bed and come and join us for a bustling Saturday down on the farm, reminding yourselves food really can come from real people, with a passion.
ON THE BALL BEVERAGE Visit www.greenfarmcoffee.co.uk
Green Farm Coffee Company in Norwich provides freshly roasted artisan coffee across East Anglia. Emma Outten chats to Sales Manager Mike Gascoyne about how we will be seeing more of the beverage brand - especially if youâ€™re a Norwich City football fan
Green Farm Coffee -
A R T I S A N
P R O D U C E R
Certified™ farms. Certification helps to ensure farm workers have safe working conditions, dignified housing, and access to medical care and schools for their children it also helps protect ecosystems, including wildlife habitat, water and soil. Rainforest Alliance certification prohibits farms from using forced labour or hiring anyone under the age of 15. Farm group administrators work to provide healthcare for workers and access to education for children. Workers are protected from excessive work hours, wage withholding and other exploitative practices. Each small batch is roasted under the watchful eye of the master roaster who has many years’ experience in perfecting exceptional coffee blends and single origin roasts. After roasting, the beans are cooled and packed - by roasting in small batches, the time taken for the beans to cool to being sealed in packs is reduced, ensuring the aromas and flavours are sealed in quickly and not lost. Mike also points out: ‘We can do something bespoke if someone wants it - they can have their own blend, and we can label things up to their own design as well.’ The growth of Green Farm Coffee reflects the fact that artisan coffee is very much in favour these days, with Mike commenting: ‘People’s perception and knowledge of coffee has completely changed over the course of the past 10 years and people’s habits have changed – and that is reflected within restaurants and pubs.’ Likewise, the taste for coffee machines has changed, hence the coffee company is in the market for supplying traditional espresso machines serving specialty coffee beverages with real barista style, as well as barista training. All in all, says Mike, ‘we are roasting and supplying the coffee plus supplying the machines and everything else for our customers.’ As for its first retail operation, we can expect to see more of the Green Farm Coffee Hut this year, as Mike says: ‘It’s one we can take to a whole range of different places – for example you could hire it for weddings or it can be used for festivals. It was a win-win for us and also for the guys who made it – they’ve not made it for a coffee operation before, so it this was a good challenge for them and creates a different kind of market for people wanting a more bespoke operation for their coffee.’ Mike concludes: ‘We’ve been around for 35 years as a business and have been doing coffee for 10 years so we know what we are doing.’ Although he adds: ‘We are evolving and are getting people more aware of the brand in the county and East Anglia.’
BESPOKE SHEPHERD hut is probably not the first thing you’d expect to see at Carrow Road on match day. And local, freshly made coffee is probably not what you’d expect to be tasting as you stand outside the South Stand. But Rackheath-based Green Farm Coffee and Norwich City Football Club have become a winning team in recent months. The new partnership means that Green Farm Coffee products will be supplied in all of the corporate areas at Carrow Road, as well as Yellows Bar and Grill plus Delia’s Restaurant and Bar. The new Green Farm Coffee Hut was launched in January, thanks to the craftsmanship of The English Shepherd’s Hut Co., an artisan company also based in Norfolk. The bespoke hut comes complete with barista machines, enabling fans to grab a latte, flat white or Americano, for a caffeine kick before kick-off. Sales Manager Mike Gascoyne says of the launch: ‘It went really well and we are going to be there for every home game.’ And he makes this point: ‘It’s your higher end coffee – and not what you would normally get at a football club.’ Green Farm Coffee is part of Norfolk Vending and Catering Services (NVCS), a secondgeneration, family-owned company which has been going for around 35 years. In 2006, Norfolk Tea & Coffee was incorporated into the group, and the Green Farm Coffee brand was formed, establishing the company as one of the leading wholesale suppliers of coffee-related services in East Anglia. Mike explains: ‘Green Farm Coffee was established about 10 years ago and has really grown since then - especially over the last 18 months.’ He adds: ‘We’ve invested hundreds of thousands of pounds to have a production outlet here in Rackheath and roasts hundreds of kilos a day. And we supply a whole range of different customers across Norfolk and East Anglia, ranging from coffee shops to hotels to restaurants to pubs, including Jarrold's and Fairhaven Garden.’ It may sound like a relatively big operation, but Green Farm Coffee still slow-roasts its own range of artisan coffee blends, and uses both traditional and modern techniques at the in-house roastery. Ethically sourced from plantations all around the world, Green Farm Coffee is roasted using top grade green beans from Rainforest Alliance
G A D G E T S
G I Z M O S
d o o G morn ng
Make breakfast a much more delicious affair with these stylish must haves. From coffee makers to egg cups, we’ve got brekkie covered! 03.
Wherye to bu
01. Horace Hare egg cup, £5.99, www. sarahboddy.com 02. Ashley Thomas toast holder, £8, Debenhams 03. Blue and white geometric ceramic leaf bowl, £15, The Contemporary Home, www.tch.net 04. Ninja Nutri Compact System Blender, £179.99, www.hughes.co.uk or your local Hughes store 05. Kate Spade Rise and Shine mug, £20, John Lewis 06. Melitta Caffeo Solo and Perfect Milk Bean to Cup Coffee Machine, £499.99, www.hughes.co.uk or your local Hughes store
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the Farm 43
A new Norwich restaurant offers bistronomy. What the heck is that? asks Sarah Hardy
E A T I N G
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ORWICH’S trendy Lanes area just gets trendier as a go-to going out spot. What with Benedicts, the Bicycle Shop, Wallow - the list of great places to eat and drink just goes on and on. Then, in late January, Farmyard opened and another fab dining experience is on offer for us all to enjoy. Located on St Benedict’s Street, it brings a ‘bistronomy’ style eatery in the heart of Norwich which, apparently, combines a relaxed ‘bistro’ experience with top quality food and flavours seen in ‘gastronomic’ fine dining restaurants. So now you know! It’s the brainchild of Andrew Jones, from Reepham, who studied economics at Nottingham University, and then
RHUBARB WITH PANNA COTTA
"There are about five starters and a handful of mains, and descriptions are kept to the bare minimum"
went on to Westminster Kingsway College to study catering - where he found his true vocation. ‘I walked into my first professional kitchen, and felt immediately at home,’ he recalls. Andrew worked in various kitchens and restaurants around the world before returning to Norfolk, with his wife, Hannah, two years ago. And yes they ended up back in Reepham, where they now have two children. ‘Life’s full circle,’ he laughs. Farmyard is certainly creating a buzz, with everyone asking everyone else if they’ve been yet. Naturally, and in the interests of research, I called by just a couple of weeks after it opened with my husband and I’m pleased to report that it was full, with a lively atmosphere. This is just what Andrew wants. ‘I hope people will come in for cocktails, sit and chat, then eat - just enjoy themselves.’ As you’d imagine from the name of the place, the menu is achingly seasonal and crammed with local produce and producers - expect Brancaster mussels, Mrs Temple cheeses, meat from Keith at the Paddocks and so on. The organic vegetables are sourced from Eves Hill Farm, Booton, while pheasant and other game is from Kempstone Manor Farm, near Swaffham, supplied by his brother-in-law Nigel Bertram.
There are about five starters and a handful of mains, and descriptions are kept to the bare minimum - there are no fancy fripperies here! As we deliberated, I enjoyed a glass of house Spanish white, La Mancha, (the wine list is by Rob Harrison who was the sommelier at Morston Hall before setting up on his own) and Himself had a bottle of Brewdog’s Dead Pony Club and we tucked into thick slices of sourdough bread and creamy butter fabulous but yes, you are in danger of filling up! For a starter, I was very tempted by Jerusalem artichoke soup but instead opted for whipped Binham Blue with pear and winter leaves which was a great combination. The cheese was rich and creamy and the pear added a satisfying edge. My husband had tandoori wood pigeon with lentil dahl, another great pairing. Then on to the mains: I fancied the cod, shitake and seaweed broth but went for the BBQ loin of pork, medlar glaze and quince while he had the restaurant’s signature burger with Colman’s mayo, onion jam and Gubbeen cheese. Mention must go to the quality of the meat; my pork was superb, and he described his burger as ‘good, very good’ so you can’t say fairer than that! We shared a portion of fat chips (what else!) and I had more Binham Blue, this time served with roast butternut squash and onion jam. I like this idea of picking and choosing your side order as the mood takes you - and you get the chance to be a little more ambitious than usual, too. Indeed, you could make a tapas style meal if you fancied. I have to admit that I really loved my dessert. There’s something about rhubarb isn’t there? That splash of vivid colour at such a grey time of year immediately excites, and, served with panna cotta, was another winning combination.
Himself thoroughly enjoyed his blood orange posset, too - especially with the accompanying oat shortbread to dip and dip again. The flavours are dynamic, combinations are interesting and the Farmyard is certainly pushing gastronomic boundaries in Norfolk and thank goodness for that. Prices fall into the reasonable category, with starters around £6, mains from £11 to £15, sides at £4 and puds at £6. As you might expect, the interior is as interesting as the menu - and there’s a real mixture of styles. The flooring is exposed plywood, the ceiling shows off all the structural features, the wiring and pipework and there’s a dramatic and colourful mural by street artist Will Barras on one wall. ‘It’s a mystic journey, moving from the past in an unknown future - it’s part of our story - about optimistic times ahead,’ says Andrew. Best of all is that the kitchen is pretty much totally on display, with a large serving/finishing area known as the pass, where you can watch them all at work and pick up a few tips as they finish off dishes. And do spot Bertha, their charcoal oven, where much is cooked. She is a good looking woman! Sharp-suited Alan Sabol is the general manager and does a ‘proper’ front of house job, weaving in and out of tables, watching everything like a hawk but always with a smile on his face and a word for all. All the staff, in their striped aprons, are young and enthusiastic and do say hello to Vera - a large Aloe Vera plant by the front door. It’s all go! I like Farmyard, I like it a lot. I like the passion behind the venture and I like that it’s daring to be a little bit different.
Your Gluten Freedo m
oroking C fo -
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Our â€˜free fromâ€™ recipe w ri Mat thews has a trio of dishester Sara to try this month - with the little scones and cookies both perfect Mothering Sunday treats
SARA MATTHEWS runs Your Gluten Freedom, visit www.yourglutenfreedom.co.uk
CHEESY TOMATO and ONION SEED SCONES
These delightful little scones are delicious on their own, as a substitute for bread or a perfect accompaniment to a bowl of warm soup or stew. You can serve them hot or cold but I love them straight out of the oven with a little spiced apple chutney and a slice of fresh tomato
Gluten Free, Dairy Free, Egg Free INGREDIENTS
1tbsp of flax seed, mixed with 3tbsp of warm water; 225g of self-raising gluten free flour; 1tsp of GF baking powder; 2tbsp of dried nutritional yeast flakes, crushed in pestle and mortar to powder; 1tbsp of dried mixed herbs; 45g of dairy free spread (I used Stork block); a pinch of salt and black pepper; Â˝ tsp of onion powder/ granules; 1 tbsp of black onion seeds, sometimes called Nigella seeds; 40g of sundried tomatoes, finely chopped; 150ml of plant-based milk (I used almond milk) plus a little for brushing
METHOD Preheat oven to 220Â°C. Mix the flax seeds with the water in a small bowl and set aside. Place the flour and the baking powder in a bowl and rub in the margarine until it looks like breadcrumbs. Add all the other dry ingredients and mix together. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and add the milk and flax seed mix, then mix together using a metal spoon or knife until it forms a dough. On a lightly floured, clean work surface top, roll out the dough, sprinkle the sundried tomatoes over the top and gently knead for a couple of minutes until the tomatoes are combined. Roll the dough to about 1 inch thickness and cut out with a cutter or small floured cup. Reform the dough and repeat until you have used all the dough. At 1 inch thickness you should get 12 but if you want your scones thicker you will get fewer. Place the scones on a greased and floured baking tray, brush the tops with a little milk and then place in a pre-heated oven for 12-15 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool or serve warm
TURN OVER FOR MORE RECIPES!
CARROT, PARSNIP and PISTACHIO CAKE with MASCARPONE and BERGAMOT LEMON TOPPING
www.parad oxlivi ng.co. uk
Mothering Sunday is the perfect excuse to eat cake! Wallis Hubble, from Paradox Living, believes in the 80/20 rule of thumb when it comes to healthy eating, but maintains that the 20 per cent of naughty treats can still be relatively good for us! INGREDIENTS 150g of organic salted butter; 100g of organic sultanas; 200g of organic carrots; 150g of organic parsnips; 4 medium organic eggs; 200g of organic coconut sugar; 1tsp of organic vanilla bean paste; 200g of organic ground almonds; 60g of organic desiccated coconut; 1tsp of organic mixed spice; 1tsp of organic cinnamon; 125g of organic pistachio nuts For glazing 350g of organic mascarpone cheese; 1 bergamot lemon or normal lemon, zest and juice; 3tbsp of organic maple syrup; extra pistachios and dried rose petals to decorate
METHOD Preheat the oven to 150Â°C fan. Grease a 20cm square cake tin with butter and line with baking paper to cover the base and at least 2 sides. Place the butter in a small pan and put on a medium heat to melt. Put the sultanas in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Peel and coarsely grate the carrots and parsnips. Whilst the butter is melting and the sultanas are soaking, whisk the eggs, sugar and vanilla bean paste together in a mixing bowl until pale and doubled in size. Add the ground almonds, coconut, mixed spice and cinnamon and whisk until combined, then whisk in the melted butter. Roughly chop the pistachios and drain the sultanas. Add the pistachio, carrot, parsnip and sultana to the cake mixture and
gently stir through. Carefully pour the batter into the prepared cake tin and place on the middle shelf for around 45 minutes or until it is firm to touch. After 35 minutes, check the cake to ensure that it is browning evenly. Once cooked, allow the cake to cool for an hour in the tin before lifting it on to a cooling rack. To make the topping: soften the mascarpone with a fork until it is spreadable. Next add the zest and juice of the lemon, followed by the maple syrup. Stir until combined. Taste to see if more lemon or maple syrup is needed. To decorate: once the cake is completely cool, spread the topping over the top of the cake until even. Sprinkle with dried rose petals and chopped pistachios, and serve
Your Gluten Freedo m -
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MAKES 24 SMALL COOKIES
BAKED SPINACH GNOCCHI with TOMATO SAUCE Gluten free gnocchi can be a pain to make as, when the gnocchi are put in the boiling water, the gluten free flour can turn to mush, even after less than a minute in the water. The trick is, once it’s made, to make sure it dries for quite some time before you cook or use specialist gluten free flour, which isn’t always readily available. However, this recipe is a twist on the original boiled potato pasta. It is fresh, and super tasty and a firm favourite in our house. The spinach and tomato flavour combination work so well together. I serve mine on a healthy helping of kale or wilted spinach leaves. INGREDIENTS For the gnocchi 1 kg of potatoes; 100g of spinach, finely chopped; 1tsp of salt; 130g of gluten free plain flour For the tomato sauce ½ tbsp of rapeseed oil; 2 cartons/cans of chopped tomatoes; 1 large onion finely chopped (I used red onion for a sweeter flavour); 2 cloves garlic, crushed; a handful of chopped basil; salt and pepper, to taste; lemon zest; 1tbsp of lemon juice
METHOD Preheat oven to 220°C. To make the gnocchi, first steam or boil the potatoes. Drain and cool. Transfer them to a bowl and add the finely chopped spinach and mash with a fork and blend until smooth. Add the salt and flour and using a knife, mix until a dough forms. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently. For ease, cut the dough into four, and roll one out at a time into a sausage shape, then chop into 2cm bits to form little gnocchi. With a fork, press lightly to add texture. Continue until you have the amount of gnocchi required. Place them on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 15-18 minutes, until they are just beginning to turn golden. The outside needs to be firm but the inside will be soft and fluffy. While the gnocchi are in the oven you can make your sauce. Heat the oil in a shallow pan and gently cook the onion for a few minutes until soft. Add the garlic and cook on a low heat for a further 2-3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, then the basil, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Gently cook over a low heat for 5-10 minutes to allow the flavours to combine. Serve your cooked gnocchi over a bed of kale or wilted spinach topped with the tomato sauce, a sprinkle of lemon zest and garnish with chopped basil.
LEMON and LIME COOKIE S INGREDIENTS 350g of ground almonds; 100g of flaked almonds; ½ tsp of bicarbonate of soda; pinch of salt; 2tbsp of maple syrup; 1tsp of lemon juice; 1tsp of lime juice; zest of 1 lime; zest of 1 lemon; 4tbsp of melted coconut oil METHOD Preheat the oven to 175°C. Line one large or two smaller baking trays with baking parchment. Place the ground almonds, soda, and salt into a food processor, then process until fine. Add the flaked almonds and quickly blitz, to break down the flaked almond but leaving them slightly coarse. This adds a wonderful texture to the cookie. Then add the melted coconut oil, maple syrup, lemon and lime zest and juice and pulse until a dough forms. Tip this into a bowl. Take a tablespoon full and roll into a ball, then place on the baking tray. Flatten it slightly with a fork. Continue until all the dough has been made into cookie shapes, then bake in your preheated oven for 6-8 minutes. You want them very slightly golden brown so they remain soft in the centre. Transfer to a wire rack and allow to cool
Gluten, dairy, egg and refine d sugar free
Serves four to six
Sarah Ruffhead -
C O L U M N
Arnold Bennett Tart
FA M O U S FIVE
Norfolk foodie Sarah Ruffhead, tells us what she has loved eating this month
I like to know the history of classic dishes, and this rich, creamy tart encased in buttery short crust pastry (as opposed to the omelette) is a favourite of ours for lunch. Named after novelist Arnold Bennett, after it was created for him whilst staying at The Savoy, it is simple to make. I always make two pastry cases at a time and freeze one. With cream, smoked haddock, eggs, chives and parmesan, it is delicious served with simple dressed leaves. THREE
Mendiants are a French confection that are traditionally studded with nuts and dried fruits chosen to represent the robe colours of the four monastic orders, or mendicants, of the church. Now any variety of fruit and nuts are used, which offers a great opportunity to show off your creativity. I swirl the melted chocolate (with a little butter) onto a large piece of greaseproof paper, then, after the fruit and nuts have been added and it has set in the fridge, break it off into rough shapes rather like a chocolate ‘bark’. It`s so very easy to make, but impresses. Try crystallised ginger, dried apricots, or cranberries. These ones had pistachios, toasted and sugared almond flakes, and dried raspberries. The sky’s the limit!
Hot Smoked Salmon
We had these delicious morsels at The White Horse at Brancaster as a canapé, but they serve a larger version as a starter, or as part of their seafood platter to share. Hot smoked salmon, smoked locally in Brancaster by Simon Letzer, is served with pared cucumber on a squid ink cracker. It looks elegant and pretty, and tastes mighty fine. And if you wish to try it at home, you can buy sachets of squid ink at Gurney’s Fish Shop in Burnham Market, and take a peek at www.souschef.co.uk for a recipe.
a modest portion, but much, much better as a main course served with good bread. Claire’s chowder was bursting with flavour and colour, and I loved the addition of prawns and bacon to the smoked haddock. A bowl of creamy goodness. FIVE
Carpaccio de la Carne
That is, Beef Carpaccio. I ate this at the lovely El Oliva restaurant in Nerja, which is very near to our village of Maro in Spain. Bizarre to eat an Italian dish in Spain I guess, but the menu at this smart restaurant set in a typical Andalucian plaza, is very much Mediterranean, and ideal for a special night out. Slivers of high quality fillet of beef, studded with capers, pine nuts, herbs and edible flowers, made this starter as pretty as a picture and almost too good to eat.
Yes, more fish! This time for supper with friends Claire and Steve. We love chowder as it’s perfect for a starter if
The Grove P R O M O T I O N
Richard Graveling, partner at The Grove in Cromer, gives us a charming insight into the history and ethos of this seaside favourite
Tell us about the family behind The Grove? The Grove is very much a family home. It originated as such and still very much has that feel. It always amazes me how many guests want to chat about it and there is nearly always one of the family about to do exactly that. Our grandparents, Robert and Hilda Graveling, took over The Grove in 1936 and ran it as a small-holding with rooms; John, our father, was born there later that year. In 1978 mum and dad took it over. They retired in 2010, but dad is very much in charge of the vegetable garden, mum does the flowers and makes the delicious marmalade. In 2010, the business passed to the next generation. Chris does all the business admin, Liz the HR, Ruth started The Grove Glamping in 2015, and I run the operational side, Hannah is our other sibling. The Grove has always been our family home and it’s great to see our children playing in the gardens just like we used to. What’s the history of the restaurant? Mum and dad ran the house as a B&B with evening meals for residents (we all used to wait on tables in the summer!) but we wanted to provide a little more choice for guests, so we employed Gary Parrett, our first chef, in 2012 to give the dinner offering a bit of a boost. Before we knew it, the diners had come flooding in, and
The Grove P R O M O T I O N
suddenly we were running a fullyfledged restaurant. It was a bit of a rollercoaster ride, but the ethos of fresh, local produce, done beautifully and tastefully, remained strong throughout. We were lucky enough to gain two Rosettes during the time Charlie Hodson was with us, and under Michael West (since 2014) we have improved further whilst keeping the original vision that has guided the restaurant for the last five years. How important is Cromer to you all? Someone said to me recently that Cromer is the sort of place that has been up-and-coming for a long time but has never quite made it like Southwold has. I don’t think this is a bad thing; the people of Cromer seem to be able to keep their feet firmly on the ground, and it hasn’t gone the way of other places where every other shop is a boutique high-end clothing chain.The beaches, cliffs and woods were our childhood playground; we have a private entrance into Warren Woods from The Grove and we would disappear for hours at a time.
How would you describe dining at The Grove? Fine dining without the frills. We like to deliver simple, quality, local food. We don’t do stuffy, over-the-top, false bonhomie; we don’t go in for a foam of this or a soil of that, but we do go in for great and innovative flavour combinations. We concentrate on seasonality. We don’t rush things; we like to let our kitchen team spend time to concentrate on each dish. We also like to let our diners spend time chatting - if they want a coffee or a late drink, they can. We have a lounge, which is perfect for this, with a lovely fire, or our new orangery bar, only finished last year. Any local suppliers and producers that you support? Our meat comes from Cromer’s Icarus Hines or Herbert Graves, who both use local farms such as Norfolk Quail, Gunton venison and Hevingham chicken. Cheeses are from Catherine Temple, Jane Murray, Fielding’s Cottage and the Fenland Farm, who create the amazing dappled cheeses. Shellfish, including Cromer crabs, of course, comes from John Davies, who fishes our lobsters to order. We only put these on seasonally – and you won’t find any crabs on our menu out of season because they wouldn’t be freshly caught.
We also stock Norfolk ales including Panther and Brewhouse, and spirits such as Black Shuck gin, and also Distiller’s Elect whisky from Attleborough. And of course, we’re very lucky to have our own vegetable garden, tended by dad, which gives us a fabulous crop, as well as plums, peaches and apples as the seasons turn. We hear The Grove is a great place to stay, too? Accommodation is a big part of our business. We have a lovely, quiet set up here. The fact that we have an extremely good restaurant is a huge draw for locals and staying guests. It’s five minutes’ walk from the beach, you don’t even have to go near any roads, we’ve got an indoor pool, four acres of gardens oh, and a characterful Georgian country house. We built five new bedrooms in 2013 to keep up with demand; they immediately won an architect’s award from the NAA. It’s a great place to relax; we are increasingly seeing people coming from Norwich and even closer. We had a couple from the other side of Cromer here last week. What dishes might we find on the menu this month? We’re just coming into our spring menu, which will run through until early June. Lobster will be back as we get into spring, available in a variety of ways, including (my favourite) chilli and garden garlic – we have so much wild garlic here it’s unbelievable. We used to come in stinking of it when we were kids. We’re also reprising our scallops with a superb pea and lime risotto, a great starter and just right for the season. There will probably be some traditional Norfolk lamb, and of course as much fresh fish as we can get our hands on. Isn't your afternoon tea rather special? They just seem to be a perfect fit for the house and gardens in the summer, though they’re popular all year round. We have a wonderful pastry chef, Sue, who loves baking and experimenting with flavours, we often use afternoon teas as somewhere to try dessert ideas. One thing that has been particularly successful is our citrus profiteroles, where the flavours are actually in the choux pastry not just in the filling.
www.t hegro vecro mer.c o.uk
cUT JOHNNY PAYNE & JASON GIBBONS
This month Andy Newman visits Coxfords Butchers in Aylsham where traditional values mix with modern ideas THE ONGOING SURVIVAL of family businesses is largely reliant on successive generations of the family being there to take over. When this isn’t possible, sadly many such traditional firms cease to exist, cementing yet another brick into the bland wall of corporate business. So it is a delight to find an example of one such food business which has managed to find a thriving independent future beyond the original family owners. John Coxford first opened the doors to his Aylsham butchery in 1969. The shop soon became a destination for the town’s meat-lovers, and offered a truly traditional service. But when John was ready to retire in 2014, after 45 years at the helm, there was no obvious family member to pass the business onto. Fortunately for Aylsham meat-lovers, a solution was close at hand. Johnny Payne, whose great grandfather and father had both been butchers, had followed the family trade, and started working for Coxfords while still a schoolboy. ‘I was made redundant from my paper round because I was too young, so came to work here,’ he recalls. Thirty years later, Johnny was managing the shop, and so was a prime candidate to take it over. Alongside Johnny was Jason Gibbons, a second generation butcher who had been with Coxfords for six years. The pair asked Mr Coxford if they could have ‘first dibs’ on the business when he retired, and so in November 2014, with much butchery experience but very little knowledge of actually running a business, Johnny and Jason found themselves the proud owners of their own butcher’s shop. ‘It was a big move, quite daunting,’ says Johnny. ‘We had no business experience, although we did of course know all of the suppliers and customers. My dad retired at the same time as Mr Coxford; sadly he passed away just weeks later, but he was able to encourage me with the words ‘I think you’ll be alright’.’
Coxfords S H O P
Johnny and Jason had ideas about how to modernise the business and make it relevant for a town which now had two supermarkets competing for their business. They quickly realised that today’s consumer wants convenience alongside quality and value, so set about introducing new ideas such as stir fries and ‘ready meals’ which were ideal for the busy 21st century foodie. ‘We experimented with new sausages, garnishes and flavourings to try and bring the whole business forward,’ says Johnny. ‘We call ourselves traditional butchers with a modern twist.’ That twist is important to capture younger customers, who may not have grown up buying their meat from a butcher. Presentation is important, too, and one of the first things the new owners did was refurbish the shop front in a new, bright red colour scheme, complete with brandnew canopy. ‘You have to do something to catch people’s imaginations,’ says Jason. ‘We knew we needed to invest in the shop, in new machinery, but also in how we presented our meat.’ Small things such as switching from stainless steel trays to smart, modern black ones make a discernible difference. But in the end it is the meat itself which will win customers’ loyalty, and it remains at the heart of Coxfords’ offer. All of the meat is local, with boards in the shop giving the provenance of everything: pork from down the road in Aylsham, lamb from Felthorpe and beef from Antingham. ‘More and more people are realising that you won’t get top quality meat from a supermarket,’ says Johnny. ‘Everyone wants to know where their meat comes from, and after several supermarket food scandals, people are definitely coming back to butchers for their meat.’ The moment you walk into Johnny and Jason’s shop you realise that the pair like to do things correctly. From the five star hygiene rating on the door (‘nothing else would be good enough,’ says Johnny) through the bright, welcoming tiled decor, to the artfully arranged steaks, joints and chops behind the counter, everything is just as it should be. Aylsham is a rapidly growing town, and the challenge now is to capture trade from those moving into the many new homes being built in the town. That such as place can support two independent butchers as well as a Tesco and a Coop suggests that Aylsham is living up to its foodie reputation. Its citizens can be reassured that following its change of ownership two and a bit years ago, Coxfords will be providing its butchery needs for many years to come.
F R O N T
"We experimented with new sausages, garnishes and flavourings to try and bring the whole business forward. We call ourselves traditional butchers with a modern twist "
COXFORDS BUTCHERS is on the Market Place in Aylsham. It is open from 7.30am until 5.30pm on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, and from 7.30am until 3.30pm on Wednesday and Saturday. More details at www.coxfordsbutchers.co.uk
C O L U M N
Lovewell Blake FAC E TO FAC E
LAST MONTH, my colleague, Justin Wright, encouraged Norfolk’s ambitious food producers to consider doing business with the supermarkets as they are the access point to a large proportion of the nation’s consumers. However, for many of the county’s smaller producers, supermarkets will not be the route to finding customers, either because their production is on too small a scale to make that viable or because they do not feel that supermarkets attract their potential core customers. For many artisan producers, getting their product on to supermarket shelves may only be a long term aspiration. For these kinds of food and drink producers, direct contact with consumers is often the best way of building brand presence, loyalty and, ultimately, ongoing custom. This is why for many such operators, a gazebo and the willingness to get up early at the weekend is almost as important as the care they pour into making the produce itself. As you are reading Feast Norfolk magazine, you are probably a foodie and will be familiar with Norfolk’s farmers’ markets, food events and festivals. The big draw for many people is the opportunity to talk directly to the people who put the passion into artisan food and drink. For producers, not only do these events offer a cost-effective entry point into food retail but, they also serve up the chance to do much more than simply sell the food itself. They represent the chance to project the personality of their brand in the most compelling way possible: face to face. Those who are good at doing this are the ones who quickly build loyalty. They see beyond the
Chris Solt, food and drink partner at Lovewell Blake, explains the importance of producers getting up close and personal with their customers short-term gain of making a one-off sale; they understand that building customer loyalty will provide both repeat sales, and just as importantly, brand advocates for them. Which of us has not told our friends about a good experience we have had at a producers’ market? Such events offer the opportunity for testing new products to see if the consumer thinks they are as good as the producer believes. They give producers the chance to get potential customers to sample their products, to demonstrate how much better they are than their mass-market equivalents. Above all, it gives producers the chance to ‘perform’ in front of their customers, to bring to life the story of their product, to give it a human face, to enthuse and share the passion. This skill is just as important as the ability to make the product in the first place. We all know producers who are good at this. At my local farmers’ market in Poringland, I really enjoy visiting the stalls of Just Cheese, Buckenham Farms and Norfolk Veg, to name just three of the excellent variety of stallholders. As well as offering top quality produce, they are all outgoing and helpful without being too ‘salesy’, demonstrating huge enthusiasm for their produce. Most small-scale food and drink producers are extremely passionate about what they do; to really succeed, they have to share that passion with their foodie customers which, is why the farmers’ markets and the food festivals are so important to our county.
is sponsoring a new Produc ers’ Street Market at the Norwi ch Food & Drink Festival on June 18. Taking place on Bethel Street and in the Forum, it will fea ture around 40 local producers. There are still a few pitches ava ilable, the cost of these has been subsidised by £25 by Lov ewell Blake; for more details em ail anna@stevensonconsulti ng. co.uk. The deadline for applications is March 31.
Charlie Hodson -
C O L U M N
Our food hero Charlie Hodson tells us about his award-winning sausage roll - made with Norfolk ingredients, of course JUST BEFORE CHRISTMAS, I stumbled upon a tweet from one of my best friends which simply read: ‘@redlionbarnes I’m in - see you in January #rolloff.’ Well, before I knew it, I had tweeted: ‘me too, I’m in!’ So, what is #rollo�? Well, it’s an annual sausage roll making competition, now in its fifth year, and so in late January, I found myself at an amazing Fuller’s pub in Barnes in West London called The Red Lion, with a chiller box, knives and my lucky Snoopy watch! The task, and there were 19 of us in all, was to create and cook a sausage roll to be judged by a panel of experts consisting of Pierre Koffman (culinary genius and personal hero), Dan Doherty (Duck & Waffle, London), Graham Garrett (West House, Biddenden), Mark Poynton (Alimentum, Cambridge) and Neil Rankin (Temper, Soho). By early evening all the other chefs, including my best friend, Alan Paton from Stoke By Nayland, had arrived and the alcohol had started to flow! We were given our heats and timings and off we went. With my ‘The Nelson
- From Norfolk With Love’ sausage roll, I was in the second heat and was beginning to feel the heat because of the high calibre of all the other contestants. I started to roll out my pastry, made with Emily Norton’s butter and Letheringsett Mill flour, binding it with Candi’s Chutney (simply the best carrot chutney), a little of Sally Francis’ Norfolk Saffron, broken down in a little water and a drop of Crush’s Cold Pressed Oil. My sausage meat was supplied by
We dished up and waited for the results with cider-baited breath as Melissa Cole, the host for the evening and beer evangelist and food writer, told us, ‘it’s like herding cats!’ So, in third place - Brendan Fyldes from Green and Fortune at Sea Containers; in second place - my great friend Alan Paton and, well, what a triumph for Norfolk, in first place - me! I shed a tear and gratefully accepted the wonderful Sausage Roll Trophy on behalf of all those superb Norfolk producers that helped me create the winning entry. I also received a set of fantastic I O Shen knives, which are the best! An appearance on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch followed - plus lots of ribbing from friends and colleagues. At least it got Norfolk on the TV. And then it was home for me and now all we need is another chef or cook to pick up the gauntlet and bring the trophy back to Norfolk again next January! So get thinking!
“The TASK was to create and cook a SAUSAGE ROLL to be judged by a panel of EXPERTS” Jamie Archer (the pigs had been reared by my old friend, farmer Tim Allen) and my not so secret ingredient was Wild Knight Vodka from my great friends, Matt and Steph. Each chef had to make a batch of 12 sausage rolls. Four were judged and the rest were sold, with proceeds going to Shooting Star Chase - a leading children’s hospice charity caring for babies, children and young people with life-limiting conditions, and their families.
THE SAUSAGE ROLLS are available at Archer's butchers in Thorpe St Andrews, Norwich and Henry's Coffee Shop in Cromer. A percentage of each one sold goes to the YANA Project which helps those in farming and allied trades in Norfolk and Suffolk who may be affected by stress and depression, visit www.yanahelp.org
COOKING FOR MUM AS MOTHERING SUNDAY looms, it’s time to think about cooking your mum a lovely lunch to say thank you for the help and support she dishes out all year. A roast is a classic choice and you might well opt for a traditional beef, pork or lamb. And don’t forget that your local butcher will always advise you on what to choose - maybe a crown or a rack of lamb, for a change. Add in those essential roast potatoes, plenty of seasonal veggies and a drop or two of gravy, and you’re almost there. As ever, you need to select locally produced meat to ensure the highest standards of taste and animal welfare, but don’t worry - there is plenty on offer. Our butchers are always stocked with meat from local farmers, ensuring you support your neighbouring economy as well as enjoying first class produce.
F E A T U R E
Tre at you r mu m on Mo the ring Sun day wit h a deli ciou s roa st lun ch - wh at cou ld be bet ter?
Love local for Mother’s Day!
fresh meat & poultry
Love a fine Walsingham roast, from one of our two great Farm Shops! Find us in Walsingham and at Norfolk Lavender, Heacham
We only stock the best beef, lamb, pork and poultry available
Lynn Road Heacham PE31 7JE 01485 570002 Open 7 days
LO O CA RD L ER DE S LIV O E VE RY R O £4 N 0
Guild Street Walsingham NR22 6BU 01328 821877 Open 7 days
PADDOCKS BUTCHERY & DELI STORES Church Farm,Norwich Road, Hethersett NR9 3AS 01603 812437 Paddock Farm Shop, Norwich Road, Mulbarton NR14 8JT 01508 578259 The Street, Bunwell, NR16 1AB 01953 789708
CATERING DIVISION Wood view Farm, Church Lane, Wicklewood, NR18 9QH, 01953 602470
www.thepaddocksbutchery.co.uk OPEN Mon to Sa
HIGH CLASS BUTCHERS * DELI * TAKEAWAY Local Free Range * HIGH WELFARE MEATS HOMEMADE PIES * Ready Meals EVENT CATERING * HOG ROASTS * BUFFETS
Range of Gluten Free Products
NORFOLK FOOD & DRINK CHAMPIONS 177-179 Plumstead Road, Norwich www.archersbutchers.com
Tel 01603 434253
· Traditional Butchery · From Farm To Fork · Award-Winning Sausages · BBQ Specialist · Home Cooked Meats · Free Range Pork, Lamb, Beef · Fresh Local Game · Discounts On Large Orders · Catering Trade Supplied · Recipe Ideas And Cooking Advice · Delivery Service · 69 CHURCH STREET, CROMER, NORFOLK, NR27 9HH t: 01263 514541 e: email@example.com w: www.icarushines.co.uk
Rachel Allen -
MUM'S THE WORD As we celebrate Mothering Sunday, hereâ€™s a new cookbook from leading Irish chef and mum,
C O O K B O O K
HIS NEW COOKBOOK is all about family, as Irish chef Rachel Allen shares some of her own mum’s favourite recipes with us. Rachel was born in Dublin and left home at the age of 18 to attend one of the country’s leading cookery schools, Ballymaloe, run by Darina Allen. Here Rachel, now in her 40s, met and married the boss’ son, Isaac, who is now her manager, and they have three children Joshua, Luka and Scarlett. They live in County Cork, close to the cookery school, and Rachel has found considerable success writing cookery books and appearing on her own TV shows, and she also teaches at the cookery school. In this new book, she shares some of the recipes handed down to her by her Icelandic mother, and the emphasis, as always with Rachel, is homely cooking nothing too fancy or complicated. And, if you follow Rachel on social media, you’ll see that she could well be opening her own restaurant in Cork, so if you’re planning a foodie trip to Ireland, that should definitely be on your list!
Wild Garlic Soup
A vibrant green soup that makes you feel good just looking at it, not to mention eating it! Use the wide-leaf wild garlic, ramson, or the three-cornered leek with the narrow leaves, both in season in spring. At other times of the year, or if you can’t get hold of any wild garlic, you can replace it with watercress, young nettles (wear gloves when harvesting – the sting will go once cooked!), spinach, kale or chard INGREDIENTS 25g of butter; 2 potatoes, diced; 1 onion, chopped; 1 litre of chicken or vegetable stock; 2 large handfuls of wild garlic leaves, roughly chopped; 110ml of regular or double cream; sea salt and freshly ground black pepper; crusty bread
TURN OVER FOR MORE OF RACHEL'S RECIPES!
METHOD Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat. When foaming, add the potatoes and onion, and toss in the butter until well coated, then season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat down, cover the pan and cook for 10 minutes or until the vegetables are soft, stirring regularly so that the vegetables don’t stick and burn. Next, add the stock and bring to a rolling boil, then add the wild garlic leaves and cook for 2 minutes or until the leaves have wilted. Don’t overcook the soup at this stage or it will lose its fresh green colour and flavour. Immediately pour into a blender and whiz until smooth, then return to the clean pan, stir in the cream and taste for seasoning. Serve hot with crusty bread
Recipes From My Mother by Rachel Allen by HarperCollins, £20
Smoked Haddock, Black Pudding and Leek Gratin A big, hearty gratin that’s a meal in a dish, this uses smoked haddock, but any other smoked fish will work well, too, such as salmon or the inexpensive coley
Serves Four INGREDIENTS 350g of potatoes, cut into 5mm slices; a tiny pinch of grated nutmeg; 1 sprig of thyme; 1 garlic clove, crushed; 250ml of regular or double cream; 125ml of milk; 25g of butter; 250g of smoked haddock, cut into 1cm pieces; 175g of leeks, sliced into 5mm half rings; 125g of black pudding, quartered lengthways then cut into chunks; sea salt and freshly ground black pepper; green vegetables or green salad METHOD Start by putting the potato, nutmeg, thyme, garlic, cream and milk in a saucepan with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover and bring up to a gentle simmer, then set aside to infuse. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4. Melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the fish, leeks and black pudding and sweat gently to soften for 8–10 minutes, then season with salt and pepper. Transfer the fish mix to a 1 litre pie dish. Remove the sprig of thyme from the potato and layer the discs of potato over the fish mix in the pie dish. Pour the creamy milk from the saucepan over the potato and fish. Bake in the oven for 40–45 minutes until golden on top and bubbling. Serve with green vegetables or a green salad.
Rachel Allen -
C O O K B O O K
Lemon Meringue Pie A classic lemon meringue pie can be a joy to eat. Zingy lemon curd sitting inside a buttery, crumbly pastry case, all covered with a blanket of fluffy white meringue.
Serves 4-6 INGREDIENTS For the pastry 225g of plain flour; ½ tbsp of caster sugar; 170g of butter, chilled and diced; 1 egg yolk, beaten with 2tbsp of water For the lemon curd 110g of butter; 170g of caster sugar; finely grated zest and juice of 2 lemons; 3 eggs, beaten For the meringue 3 egg whites; 150g of caster sugar
METHOD First make the pastry. Place the flour and the sugar in a mixing bowl and rub in the butter until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. If the butter is really cold, you can grate it in for easier rubbing in. Add half the beaten egg yolk and water and, using your hands, bring the pastry together. If it is too dry to come together, add a little more until it does. Do not knead it, but shape it into a round, 2cm (1in) thick, using your hands to flatten it. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge for 30 minutes or up to 24 hours (it can also be frozen for up to three months). Alternatively, if you are making the pastry in a food processor, blitz the flour, sugar and the butter cubes. Whiz for a few seconds, then add half the beaten egg yolk and water and continue whizzing for just a second or two until it starts to come together. You might need to add a little more egg, but don’t add too much, and don’t overprocess the pastry otherwise it will be tough and heavy. If you have any egg yolk and water left over, reserve it for brushing over the pastry at the end of the blind baking. Preheat the oven to 180°C, Gas mark 4. You will need a 23cm metal tart tin with removable sides. Take the pastry out of the fridge and place between 2 sheets (larger than your tart tin) of cling film. Using a rolling pin, roll it out until it is 3mm thick. Make sure to keep it round, if the tin is round, and large enough to line the base and sides of the tin. Removing just the top layer of cling film, place the pastry upside down (cling film side facing up) into the tart tin (no need to flour or grease the tin). Press the pastry into the edges, cling film still attached and, using your thumb, ‘cut’ the pastry on the edge of the tin. It should look quite neat. If there are any holes or gaps, patch them with some spare pastry. Remove the cling film and chill the pastry in the fridge for 15 minutes or even in the freezer for 5 minutes (it will keep for weeks in the freezer, if covered well)
Hot Off The Press This month’s selection of new cookbooks includes ones from James Martin and Lorraine Pascale
JAMES MARTIN'S FRENCH ADVENTURE by James Martin £20
The inspiration for James Martin's French Adventure came after buying late celebrity chef Keith Floyd's old Citroen 2CV. Deciding to drive it round France on a culinary road trip some 30 years after Floyd on France was first screened, James travelled the length and breadth of the country, sampling the very best food and reports back with this book of 80 delicious recipes. Along the way he cooks seafood in Marseille, shops at colourful Provencal markets, cooks with legendary chefs including Michel Roux and Pierre Gagnaire and explores the vineyards of Burgundy. The collection includes French classics, Pain au Chocolat, French Onion Soup with Cheesy Croutons, Coq-au-Vin, Crème Brûlée, as well as James's own. Bon Appetit.
AN EVENING WITH Harry Brett takes place in the books department at Jarrold’s on April 27 at 6.30pm. Harry is the non de plume of Henry Sutton, the director of the MA in Creative Writing (crime fiction) at UEA. He will be in conversation with colleague Philip Langeskov, after which there will be an opportunity to talk to Harry and get your copy of the book signed. Tickets are £5 which includes a glass of wine and £5 off the book on the evening.
by Thomasina Miers £25
by Myles Hopper & Giles Humphries £20
Thomasina Miers, founder of Mexican fast-food chain, Wahaca and Guardian weekend cook has collected 300 of her favourite recipes made up of family classics or food inspired by her travels and her favourite food-writers and chefs. She includes simple recipes for making the perfect poached egg, an immaculate short-crust pastry or a cheat's guide to Sunday roasts. And, usefully, each recipe includes a follow-up meal idea so that ingredients or sauces can be repurposed. Tasty and practical.
Myles Hopper and Giles Humphries, a nutritional coach and health food duo from Devon are the founders of a recipe box service, Mindful Chef. Their healthy food boxes get sent to thousands of households including sporting stars Victoria Pendleton and Andy Murray. In this book they share 70 easy-to-make dishes that are nutritionally proven to boost your health and wellness: each meal can be made in 30 minutes and has a maximum of 10 ingredients; all recipes are gluten-free and contain no refined carbs or sugars; from breakfast through to dinner; and with some guilt-free snacks in between but no meticulous calorie counters. Seriously healthy.
THE REALLY QUITE GOOD BRITISH COOKBOOK
by Lorraine Pascale £20 An array of 125 delicious cakes to take your baking to the next level. Lorraine Pascale suggests combining unlikely ingredients such as courgette, lemon and pistachios to make a tasty Drizzle Loaf. She used to have a celebration cake business so there is plenty of guidance and tips for easy to master impressive celebration cakes, such as Naked Pecan and Popcorn Layer Cake, Chocolate Layer Cake with Toasted Meringue and Fraisier Cake with Port, Strawberries and Almonds. Get those cake forks ready.
edited by William Sitwell £25
Wouldn't it be great to have a book with recipes from the best British chefs in one? Well here it is. Raymond Blanc, Gordon Ramsay, Delia Smith, Mary Berry, James Martin, Nigel Slater, Thomasina Miers, Mark Hix, Jason Atherton, Marco Pierre White, Claudia Roden and more were asked the question: What do you cook for the people you love? And so 100 of Britain's food heroes have shared their most personal recipes: Nigella Lawson divulges how to bake her Chocolate Guinness Cake and Rick Stein fries up Shrimp & Dill Fritters with Ouzo. Yotam Ottolenghi would serve Pea & Mint Croquettes and for Jamie Oliver, an unrivalled Fantastic Fish Pie.
Lacons Brewery -
B E E R
T H E TIM ES, T H E Y AR E - C H A N G IN'
Should keg beer be getting a bit more love? Lacons Brewery takes a look www.lacons.co.uk
Dating back to 1760 and known as the Great Yarmouth brewer, Lacons is incredibly passionate about its heritage and is committed to preserving its legacy. After a 45 year break, they returned in 2013, producing high quality ales and craft beer using the original Lacons yeast. THE FUTURE OF CAMRA
CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) has 185,000 members from around the world and aims to promote pubs and real ale. The group is not only made up of beer enthusiasts and publicans, but also members who just want to meet with like-minded individuals. We’re in the middle of some interesting times in the beer industry and with CAMRA’s Annual General Meeting just around the corner, there’s certainly a lot to talk about this year with their ‘Revitalisation Project.’ CAMRA have successfully promoted good quality cask ale as ‘real’ ale for many years defining it as: ‘A beer brewed from traditional ingredients, matured by secondary fermentation in the container from which it is dispensed, and served without the use of extraneous carbon dioxide.’ They are facing a debate as to whether they should broaden what the organisation supports by including keg beer and other craft beer formats.
AGAINST KEG BEER…
Increasing in popularity in both the UK and the US, more breweries are producing keg products to enter this growing market, which some CAMRA members feel could spell out bad news for the future of real ale. Back in 1971 when CAMRA was set up, ‘keg beer’ was considered a threat to the survival of real ale because of cheaper non-natural ingredients used to give it its fizz and longer shelf life. This made real ale increasingly harder to find because of the rise in keg beer drinkers and larger breweries taking over smaller ones to mass produce this beer, (we certainly know about this with Whitbread taking ownership of Lacons in 1965 and completely closing the brewery in 1968). Often compared to lager because of its fizz, some real ale drinkers won’t entertain keg beer as ever being a part of CAMRA’s definition of real ale because of the use of Carbon Dioxide and Nitrogen when producing it, even though secondary fermentation is often used.
In the last couple of years, keg craft beer has definitely been given a new lease of life and is now a strong part of the beer industry, and it continues to grow. We are seeing ‘keg’ and ‘craft’ beer become intertwined, which means more premium and artisan ingredients are being used during the brewing process. Despite what some might say, they can be incredibly refreshing, full of flavour and also have delightful aromas – just like real ale.
Members who want keg beer to be included under the CAMRA umbrella feel that quality and flavour are far more important than brewing and dispensing techniques. After all, one of the other key aims of CAMRA is to protect pubs so it could be argued that expanding their definition of ‘ale’ could go a long way towards supporting this goal.
SO WHAT DOES LACONS THINK?
Our passion as a brewery is creating great beer in whatever format and our range includes our flagship ale Encore, which was awarded CAMRA Champion Golden Ale last year and is complemented by many others. They are made using the original Lacons yeast which was put into storage in 1959 by our then head brewer, just after Whitbread bought their shares. Alongside cask ale, we have launched two new craft beers, Quell IPA 5.4% and Steam Lager 4.0% which both have intense flavours whilst strongly reflecting the quality of the Lacons brand. Quell is available in can packs on Greater Anglia Norwich to London trains in their café bar. Craft beer is not only much more accessible now to consumers, but it also allows pubs to have a wider range of choices to suit the tastes of drinkers who are looking for something a little bit different than their typical pint of beer. With a wider range of beer styles available in the UK than ever before, it’s hard to say whether CAMRA will integrate keg beer into its thinking, however at Lacons we just want to make great beer for people to enjoy.
l i f e through
rtoinstĂŠed glasses Andy Newman celebrates the prospect of some warmer weather by drinking rosĂŠ wine
THERE ARE MANY reasons to look forward to spring: lighter evenings, no more toe-numbing frosts, bulbs coming through in the garden, and the beginning of the cricket season. For many Britons, it is also the time when we put aside the huge, full-bodied winter warmer red wines and start to think pink. The march of pink wines over the past 10 years has been astonishing; they now account for one in nine bottles we buy as a nation. In a country where a sunny day still makes front page news, this is perhaps a triumph of hope over optimism (perhaps the same reason we buy more convertible cars than any other nation in Europe). Waitrose reported that its summer rosé sales more than doubled last year compared, with 2015, a year in which Sainsburys sold 15 million bottles of the stuff. Market commentators tell us that although the initial growth in sales of pink wines was driven by burgeoning female demand, an increasing proportion (although still a minority) is consumed by men. Encouragingly (and at the risk of being accused of sexism), this trend is one of the reasons that the wine’s popularity is no longer riding on the back of insipid ‘blush’ wines, which drove the initial spike in rosé sales, and which were certainly marketed hard at the female drinker. The pink we are most likely to buy these days is a dry, weightier wine which will just as equally partner food as be suitable for quaffing on the patio in the afternoon. And the good news is that we can now buy a bigger range of rosé wines in this country than ever before. There are still some people who believe that rosé is simply a blend of red and white wines. Although that remains the most common way of making pink Champagne, it has never been how still rosés are made. People are often surprised to learn that the juice of all grapes is clear, no matter what colour the skin of the berry. That is how you can make white wine from red grapes (Pinot Noir, in Champagne, for example): you simply press the grapes and just use the runoff juice before it has a chance to pick
, Rose W I N E
up any of the colour from the skin. So if red wine derives its hue from contact with the skins of the grapes, then rosé gets its characteristic pinkness quite simply from a shorter period in contact (or macerating) with the skins. How long this maceration can take depends on the amount of pigment in the particular variety of grape, and how pale or deep the winemaker wants the finished product to be. Once the juice has picked up the desired level of colour, the juice is pressed or racked off, and the wine is then made as if it were white. The tannin you would expect in a red wine also comes from the phenolics in the skins, so a rosé may have a degree of tannin, although it will always be less
Three Rosés to enjoy this month
DOMAINE GAYDA ROSÉ 2013 (Harper Wells, £11)
A Grenache rosé from right down in Languedoc-Roussillon, this bursts with strawberries and cream on the nose, delivering summer fruits on the palate along with crisp acidity, and more weight than you might expect. A great combination of gravitas and pink fun
FORREST ESTATE ROSÉ 2015 (Adnams, £10.49) Marlborough in New Zealand is best known for Sauvignon Blanc, but this is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. It’s vibrant pomegranate pink, and delivers fresh raspberry, blueberry and redcurrant flavours and a twist of lime
HUMBLEYARD VINEYARDS ROSÉ 2013 (Adnams, £13.49, or direct from the vineyard shop in Mulbarton) Established in 2010, Humbleyard vineyard is a Norfolk success story. Its rosé, which has been awarded a prestigious Protected Designation of Origin status, is made from Rondo and White Reichenstiner grapes, giving it a deep pink appearance, a slight residual sweetness, and a delicate, relatively low alcohol finish
than a red wine. It is these slightly more tannic rosés which tend to make good food matches. In the UK, we used to see a relatively small number of rosé wines, with the off-dry Loire Valley styles predominating, along with the slightly sparkling medium sweet Mateus Rosé. Fortunately, our choice these days is rather wider both in terms of style and quality. The southern part of France – right the way across from Languedoc to Provence – is still a good place to start looking for the perfect rosé. Many parts of this region see rosé as their summer drink, more so than white wine. Many of us dream of that first bottle of pale Provençal rosé when we are on holiday, but the almost-red wines of Tavel in the southern Rhône are at the other end of the scale – big, dark and alcoholic. Spain and Portugal are also big producers, but in Europe some of the most exciting wines are coming from further north, where the climatic barriers to producing ripe enough grapes to make red wine can be ignored if you are looking for a wine with less extract. English rosés in particular are winning fans not just domestically, but further afield. The growth in popularity of rosé has encouraged wine regions which traditionally ignored or eschewed the style to have a go, and many – although not all – have been successful. So you are just as likely to see a Marlborough Pinot Noir rosé from New Zealand on the shelves as you are a Sancerre rosé made from the same grape. Pink wines will never stand up to the robust foods which need a big, bold red, but you might be surprised at just how versatile rosés can be when it comes to matching dishes. Obviously the kind of summer lunchtime dish like salade Niçoise will perfectly partner that medium-bodied Provence rosé; but Merlot-based Bordeaux rosé and some of the bigger southern French examples such as Bandol are perfect for lobster and even rare lamb. Some of the New World rosés made from grapes such as Syrah and cabernet can also be very good with spicy food, including curries.
CE T O WIN ! N
GRAB YOURSELF A BURGER This month we’ve teamed up with a new restaurant in Norwich, Byron, to offer one lucky reader the chance to win a meal for four BYRON WAS FOUNDED with a simple mission: to do one thing, and do it properly. You'll find proper hamburgers served the way they should be: carefully-sourced British beef, ground fresh, cooked medium so it's pink and juicy, and served in a squishy bun with a craft beer, bourbon, or a famously thick milkshake. The Mini Byron menu caters for kids, with proper food for smaller appetites. Byron's menu is also available to take away. To celebrate Byron Hamburger’s new restaurant opening on March 20 at Chapelfield Plain, intu Chapelfield, we’re giving one lucky person a chance to win a meal for four.
HOW TO ENTER
To enter our competition, simply answer the following question:
Where is Byron situated in Norwich? Send your name, address and a daytime telephone number to competitions@ feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk You can also enter by liking and sharing the competition on our Facebook page. Entrants must be over 18 and normal Feast Norfolk rules apply. The editor’s decision is final. The prize is a meal for four people, which includes one burger, one side and one drink each. The competition is open until March 31 2017.
Join Byro n Burg er Club for news, treats and tasting s: www.b yronh ambur gers.c om/bu rgercl ub
Food & Wi ne Pairing -
S T E V E
H E A R N D E N
the french connection
Wine expert Steve Hearnden pairs French wine with Norfolk meat in his latest Feast Norfolk column I MET UP WITH ROBBIE CLARIDGE a little while ago to undertake a pairing of his food and my wine. Claridge’s Catering was established in 2012 and is a Buxton firm which uses all local produce. He serves food at public fairs and events from weddings to sports tournaments and parties of any description. Soon, hopefully, we will be able to eat outside again and so the menu for my tasting comprised: Jim Beam Flat Iron Steak, Wild Boar Sausages and Rare Breed (yearlings) Dexter beefburgers. The wines are all from Domaine Les Chemins de Bassac, based in the quaint and typically French village of Puimisson and are all organic. Isabelle Ducelier is an outstanding cook, whilst Remi, her husband, is a brilliant artist. The wine isn’t bad, either! What a combination of skills.
ISA BLANC 2013 was the first wine we tried, and we thought the pairing with all three dishes would fail but the light wine made from Roussanne and Viognier grapes accompanied the meat perfectly. The richness of the meat was complimented by the residual sugar on the tongue, only to be finished off with a slight freshness and spice. Not a long aftertaste but sufficient to encourage you to try another glass. This wine is perfect on its own, too. www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk
ISA ROSE 2013 was the second wine. I know a lot of people do not like rose because it is considered not one thing nor the other, but the Grenache and Mouvedre grapes, when combined, do make for a light fruity wine with a little pepper in the mix.
ISA ROUGE 2013 was wine number three. I decided, before trying it with the food, that it was going to be the best. It was excellent and did stand up to the rich flavours of the meat whilst complimenting the spicy food. Made from the Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mouvedre and Pinot Noir, this is a soft but complex wine. Fruit is very positive on the aromas and taste - black cherries dominated for me but strawberry and raspberry did support the final swallow. A gorgeous wine which will be easy drinking in the summer.
PINOT NOIR 2012 was our final wine. I did write about this wine last month and so it must say something good about the wine. All Pinot Noirs have a varying degree of vegetal aromas and taste. The fruit also comes through in varying degrees. This is a fantastic wine but would be better with roast beef or grilled steaks - standard fare, really. The richness of this locally sourced food was, in my opinion, just a little too rich, for this wine. I would welcome comments from readers on this point.
ing (www.claridgesca tering.co.uk), and all wines av ailable from Tastebuds Wine s, online or from Strumpshaw Post Office. Isa Wines are all £9.25 and the Pinot Noir £10.35
Dubrovnik DINING OUT IN
T R A V E L
Keen FOODIE Georgia Watson eats her way around the CROATIAN city of
ONE OF EUROPE’S most ancient cities, Dubrovnik, was an independent republic for 700 years; its impressive and imposing walls making it a near impenetrable fortress. Now known as a city break or cruise destination and a Unesco site, it’s popular for its warm climate, beautiful views, and for being the set of the hit TV series, Game of Thrones. With a great mix of culture and beaches to explore, it seemed like an ideal destination for a few days away. Before we set off, I realised I had no idea what the cuisine in Croatia was like, and being a foodie, dinnertime is normally quite a well planned occasion! Our hotel was a little way from the main, walled old town, out on a peninsula called Gruz, a suburban area of the city set on an inclining hill with the harbour at the base. Each morning we could walk down nearly 500 stairs to a bustling local food market. On our first day in Dubrovnik we explored this neighbourhood, which was centred around the marina and had some lovely little cafés and restaurants with terraces onto the street which were full of locals enjoying leisurely lunches. A walk around the harbour and onto the opposite peninsulas of Babin Kuk and Lapad, the view turned a little more commercial as many of the larger tourist hotels are situated there. Following the coastline, the deep blue waters of the Adriatic were tempting in the summer heat, the waves breaking over the rocky outreaches and small islands you could see in the distance. We took a break from our walk to enjoy a drink at Cave Bar More, a bar built into a natural cave under the hills that has been transformed into a trendy hideaway with stalactites hanging from the ceiling. Also home to an outdoor seating area on the cliff, the views are spectacular. Continuing on our journey around Babin Kuk, we sunbathed on the sandy Copacabana Beach before arriving at our first dinner spot, Orsan Restaurant. Based at Orsan Yacht Club, the atmosphere is incredibly relaxed and inviting. The tables are set up on the jetty with boats moored right next to you, the gentle sounds of their masts clanging a rhythmic accompaniment. Our waiter was very helpful and we let him pick our entire meal. The menu was full of fresh fish, as you would expect being right on the harbour, and there was
DUBROVNIK DETAILS EASYJET flies from London Stansted to Dubrovnik, prices start from £37.49pp during off-peak season and from £74.99pp in the school holidays. WE STAYED at Hotel Adria, a four star hotel situated 2.5km from the old city. www.hotel-adria-dubrovnik.com IF YOU'RE planning to visit many of the museums and attractions during your stay, it's well worth purchasing a seven-, threeor one-day Dubrovnik Card. You'll have free use of public transport and access to the nine top attractions, plus discounts at many of the city's restaurants. www.dubrovnikcard.com
T R A V E L
SEMUR EN AUXOIS
CATHEDRAL OF THE HOLY VIRGIN MARY
a traditional outdoor grill just in sight with its delicious aromas drifting across. He brought us a huge seafood platter that was overflowing with octopus, anchovies, olives, and prawns - these delicacies were the freshest I had ever tasted, perfectly seasoned with a little lemon juice. For our main course, the waiter said that we must try the John Dory. It was grilled whole and the waiter even filleted it at the table and served us a portion each before letting us help ourselves to the rest. It was simple, real food, the chefs not feeling the need to add overly complicated sauces, instead allowing the flavours of the fish to speak for themselves. The next day we headed off to explore the Old Town. As the imposing city walls greeted us, I was overwhelmed by the realisation of how powerful this city once was and the incredible amount of history its walls contain.
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Walking down the Stradun, Dubrovnik’s main street is filled with souvenir shops, street performers, cafés and restaurants. First heading to see the aquarium and maritime museum, we took in the old harbour and watched the boats head out to sea whilst the delightful smell of seafood being cooked wafted over to us. Wandering through the alleyways and backstreets of the city, we came across the Glam Café. This was the only bar we found that served Croatian Craft Beer - most places served lager - so we kicked back with a toasted sandwich and a pint to revive ourselves. Taking in more historic sights that afternoon, including the Old Pharmacy in the Franciscan Church and Monastery, we then headed up some stairs and alongside the city walls to discover the Buza Bar. A little bar made up of just a few fridges clinging to the edge of the cliff, there isn’t much else you could want when you have the endless sight of the blue sea beyond. For dinner we walked back out of Pile Gate, one of two main access points to the Old Town, and stopped to dine at Dubravka 1836. A tourist-filled restaurant due to its location next to the main bus stop, its terrace has a phenomenal view overlooking Fort Lovrijenac and the sea beyond. The food is traditional Mediterranean cuisine centred on fresh fish but also serving a range of
T R A V E L
meat dishes. My partner opted for a steak with melted cheese, mushrooms and fries, whilst I had a seafood risotto. We both agreed the dishes had been cooked with skill and, despite the tourist pricetag, we really enjoyed our visit. The next day it was time to take on the town walls, a must-do for visitors to Dubrovnik. Offering breath-taking views, we managed to walk the entirety of the walls (1.6km) within 45 minutes, stopping to snap multiple panoramic photos along the way. We returned to Lapad to try a restaurant we had walked past on our first day, Peppers Eatery. With a small plate concept, Peppers is all about sharing tasty mini-dishes in a friendly, relaxed environment. We shared a few different plates including pulled pork sliders that were melt-in-the-mouth, the pork tender and tasty in little brioche buns. We also chose tiger king prawns, that were succulent and full of flavour, a trio of fries and salt and pepper calamari that had a satisfying
crunch with tasty squid inside. I loved the concept of this restaurant: it was so easy to share dishes, and the bigger eats looked just as delicious with pork fillet medallions, half hickory smoked BBQ chicken and swordfish on offer. With our time in Dubrovnik sadly at an end, our choice of restaurants affirmed in my mind that exploring outside the main tourist areas really does reveal culinary gems. Although the places to eat inside the city walls were of great quality, they also came with a pricetag, whereas by exploring out into the suburbs, like where we stayed in Gruz, you’ll discover where the locals eat and find places with fantastic atmosphere and fantastic food – the real heart of the city.
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Just under 1100 Barn 1bedrooms 3,379 1bedrooms sq.ft. sq.ft. 3 have full Original planning, the other is inBarn process Modern unconverted barn with planning Four Four Over 4,100 sq.ft. Countryside views Just Just under under 1100 1100 sq. sq. ft. acre. ft. Barn 2 2,070 sq.ft. Sits in a third of an Barn Barn 2 2,070 2 2,070 sq.ft. sq.ft. Four bedrooms 0.75 0.75 acre acre Reepham £265,000 Over SitsSits in in a third a4,100 third ofsq.ft. of an an acre. acre. Completion March/April. 0.75 acre Countryside Countryside views views ModernCompletion unconverted barn with planning Completion March/April. March/April. Countryside views Over Over 4,100 4,100 sq.ft. sq.ft. Four bedrooms Kirby Cane Barn 1 £235,000 Over 4,100 sq.ft. Guide Price Letton £639,500 0.75 acre Barn 1 £235,000 Kirby Cane Barn 2 £200,000 An immaculate, mostly Timber framed Barn. Rockland All Saints £850,000 Countryside views Reepham £265,000 Barn 2 planning £200,000 Two unconverted barns with
Barn Masters is the specialist agency owned and run Barn Masters is the specialist agency owned and run by people who restore barns, market them and fully by people who restore barns, market them and fully TOWER BARN HEYDON £800,000 understand what barn living is all about GABLE BARN, HEYDON £745,000 what barn living is all about understand
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firstname.lastname@example.org F Planning for conversion to two 1400 T Planning Planning for conversion conversion to3.2 two to acres two 1400 1400 FBARNS Ifor bedroom barn. and stabling. FOR VWAITING APPLICANTS GABLE BARN, HEYDON £745,000 O £800,000 sq.ft. dwellings. RN HEYDON sq.ft. sq.ft. dwellings. bedroom barn also included. ASHBY ST. MARY £425,000 IN dwellings. Planning Planning forOne for replacement replacement dwelling dwelling forfor 3 3 S N, HEYDON £745,000 bedroom barn. barn. 3.23.2 acres acres and and stabling. Rbedroom FROSTENDEN £295,000 N replacement for 3 stabling. Efor ASHBYdwelling ST. MARY £425,000 FROSTENDEN FROSTENDEN £295,000 £295,000 O Planning F One One bedroom bedroom barn barn also also included. included. F SO bedroom O barn. 3.2 acres and stabling. G One bedroom barn also included.D £425,000 IN ASHBY ASHBY ST.ST. MARY MARY £425,000 M E O C EDTED LVdwelling Planning for replacement for 3 DIT ASHBY ST. MARY T O £425,000 I I N
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‘C’ shaped – in excess of 4,000 sq. ft. Reepham Reepham
Rockland All Saints
£265,000 £265,000 £850,000
The Hero -
S T A Y C A T I O N
t a h wa
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Did you know that The Hero at Burnham Overy Staithe in North Norfolk now offers three stylish rooms and breakfast in the cosy bar? Emma Outten checked out a room of heroic proportions
www. theher oburn hamov ery.co.uk
S T A Y C A T I O N
OW DO YOU define getting away from it all for the night? For me it can mean leaving the city and heading to the North Norfolk coast for 24 hours of no mobile phone service, no shops and no-one but birdwatchers on the post-breakfast walk. We had headed to the Burnhams, a cluster of villages made up of Burnham Market, Burnham Overy Staithe and Burnham Thorpe.
Driving past the boutique shops of buzzy Burnham Market, we settled on Burnham Overy Staithe, a small hamlet on the A149 coast road, which out of season may well be more populated by birds and boats than people. The focal point is The Hero, a freshly renovated pub and restaurant which reopened last summer under the new management of the very personable owner and executive chef Harry Farrow and business partner Rowan Glennie, the award-winning team behind the Anchor Inn in Morston. And now it boasts three individually appointed double B&B rooms (and one of the two downstairs rooms is dog friendly). However, we were shown the impressible Gun Hill room upstairs, which is twice the size of the other two and has its own separate staircase, dining area with DeLonghi coffee machine, lounge area with TV, king size bed with Egyptian cotton luxury linen, and beautiful bathroom with oversized bathtub and separate power shower. Having taken it all in, we popped down to the bar and sat in front of the fire, with a pint of Adnams Jack Brand Mosaic Pale Ale (but there was also Woodforde’s and Grain on offer, we noted).
After a sojourn back at our room, we returned to the bar - which gives a firm nod to the pub’s nautical heritage - for dinner, although I can well imagine the adjacent restaurant coming to life in the summer. For starters, I chose smoked garlic and potato soup, with crispy onion and croutons and served with homemade bread (£6.50). This was the thickest, creamiest soup imaginable, with the garlic none too overpowering. I had had the idea of cutting the bread into giant croutons and throwing them into the mix, as you can never have too many croutons, right? My partner had the Asian marinated crispy pork belly, with kimchi, Tom Yum ketchup, Japanese kewpie mayonnaise and pickled Asian salad (£9) and declared it ‘delicious’. Incidentally, The Hero is very clued up regarding allergens and so there’s an allergen key at the bottom of the menu.
For mains, I had roasted butternut squash, chargrilled aubergine and courgette caponata, cavolo nero all on a bed of white bean hummus, with Norfolk White Lady cheese and salted almonds (£14.50). If you’re thinking of becoming vegetarian, then this generously portioned, Italianate offering would certainly make up your mind for you. My partner had the Hero fish stew, comprising Brancaster mussels, cod supreme, squid fritter, langoustine bisque and anchovy aioli with a basil pesto on toasted focaccia (this was the most expensive dish on the menu, at £19.50, but if you like your fish, it’s worth every penny – the mussels don’t get much fresher, for a start). As The Hero uses the best local produce we also spotted chargrilled Arthur Howell sirloin steak on the menu. We then shared a dessert: White chocolate and pistachio crème brûlée with Hero biscuit and Norfolk raspberry sorbet (£6.50). The sorbet was a refreshing added extra, I thought, and we rather thought a little Kilner jar of the homemade biscuits back in the room would be a nice touch to go with the Teapigs Earl Grey or Nespresso coffee. After a peaceful night’s sleep we were back down at the bar for breakfast, for a freshly cooked full
English (veggie for me, accompanied by brown sauce courtesy of Stokes in Suffolk; and meaty for him), although Simon Letzer smoked salmon further down the menu caught my eye - plus there were cereals and juices aplenty. Beginning at 8.30am and finishing at 11am, this is what I would call a leisurely start to the day. Post breakfast, we walked the way of the birdwatchers down to the harbour and enjoyed spotting a gaggle of geese over the tidal creeks. It was snowing when we went, but, if you’re a keen walker, the Norfolk Coast Path is right there for the walking, and if you’re not such a keen walker, the Coasthopper bus service can always get you back to where you began. What’s more, Harry says they are about to start offering a picnic service to take on your travels! The team at The Hero are absolutely right when they say that the Gun Hill room is perfect for a romantic break for two – think anniversary celebrations and such like and you’re there. Quite simply, this master suite is stunning (I should also mention that it has its own outside seating area - something to bear in mind when the weather gets warmer). It may have been the bleak midwinter when we stayed at The Hero, but with a room like Gun Hill, who needs to venture out? The space it affords you is something else.
Herbert Woods -
ARTIST'S IMPRESSION OF THE ADVENTURING LIGHT
HAVING A LITTLE BREAK is a treat which many of us seize whenever we can. Perhaps a night or two away at the coast or a boutique hotel in peaceful countryside? Alternatively, there’s a great new option from Herbert Woods, one of the oldest boat hire companies in the region. Marketing director Amanda Walker explains that a new, lightweight luxury boat is about to be available for hire - just with romantics in mind. The boat, Adventuring Light, booking from Easter, is perfect for both short breaks and week-long holidays. It has been constructed
S T A Y C A T I O N
www.herbertwoods.co.uk and kitted out locally, all to a very high spec. Expect all mod cons, with a decent shower, a double bed, a telly, great cooking facilities and fresh, contemporary interiors. A hamper, packed full of local foodie goodies such as Sandringham Apple Juice, is also included. And there is, of course, that essential outdoor area where you can sit and sunbathe as the world floats gently by. Indeed, as Amanda points out, the sides can be opened up to allow all that sunshine to flood in.
It is designed to be ultra easy to use so you certainly don’t have to be an expert sailor, and plenty of instruction and general advice is given before you set out on your adventures! The boat is moored at Herbert Woods’ HQ in Potter Heigham so holidays start from there and it’s expected that people will simply enjoy the surrounding waterways, perhaps making their way to Wroxham, Hickling, Horning, Coltishall or South Walsham, calling in at some of the lovely pubs, hotels
A L L A B OA R D
Fancy messing about on the water? Try a new luxury boat on The Broads - designed just for two! Sarah Hardy reports
© BROADS AUTHORITY
and delis along the way. Herbert Woods has prepared several routes for people to follow, highlighting places and attractions to visit. The Broads are glorious at any time of the year and they are really best explored from the water as you get to see so much more, from the wonderful wildlife to those beautiful houses and their gardens at the water’s edge. It sounds a dreamy holiday, with plenty of fresh air, ever changing glorious scenery and the chance to just sit back and relax - and enjoy good food and drink, too. Now, not many of us want more than this.
POTENTIAL ROUTE MAP OVERLEAF
BOOKINGS are Friday to Monday and Monday to Friday, with full weeks available, too. Prices start at £612 for a week. Bookings are from Easter until the beginning of December. It is hoped a second boat will be added to the fleet later in the year. Herbert Woods has around 130 boats in all, for varying party sizes, plus a selection of cottages and apartments for hire.
© BROADS AUTHORITY
© BROADS AUTHORITY
p A Norfolk ‘Farm to Plate’ Butchersh Sho more! ... and so muc
Butcher… Baker… Pie Maker
locally sourced * lovingly prepared * fresh & tasty Picnic Hampers Homemade Pork Pies & Sausage Rolls Luxury Quiches Barbecue Meats ˙ Pork & Lamb 21+˙ Day Mature Norfolk Beef Outside Catering Freshly˙Filled Hot/Cold Baguettes Rare Breed ˙ ˙ ˙ 37 Lower Street, Horning, Norwich, Norfolk NR12 8AA | T: 01692 631193 Open: Mon, Tues, Thur & Fri 8am-4.30pm, Wed 8am-1pm, Sat 8am-1.30pm We will be open from 8-5pm during peak season
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Riverfront Garden ·· Spacious Traditional Homemade Pub Classics Cask Ales & Fine Wines ·· Quality Free Mooring for Patrons
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Electric Boat Hook-Up ··Mooring Assistance Available Amusements ·· Children’s Large Covered Heated Decking Area
Herbert Woods -
S T A Y C A T I O N
WROXHAM POTTER HEIGHAM
THURNE SALHOUSE BROAD
RANWORTH BROAD 05.
M E S S I N G A B O U T O N T H E WAT E R Here’s our suggestion for a top day out if you hire a boat from Herbert Woods at Potter Heigham. Just add sunshine!
FOLLOW THE RIVER THURNE to Thurne Mouth before turning on the River Bure towards Horning. Pass by South Walsham Broad before turning into 1. Ranworth Broad. Why not moor up for an hour and take in the nature boardwalk or climb the Church Tower? Stunning views for miles around! Once back aboard make directly for gorgeous Horning where a host of foodie delights await you. Here are some ideas. If you fancy a Picnic why not moor up and make your way to 2. Tavern Tasty Meats. They are a Norfolk "Farm to Plate” Butchers shop, but so much more. They will make you up a picnic hamper or provision you with home made pork pies, sausage rolls and freshly filled baguettes. Not to mention some butcher’s classics if you are planning on a barbeque. If it’s real ale or homemade traditional pub classics
you are after then you have to stop at the 3. New Inn at Horning. With free mooring, free wifi and lots to amuse the children, this is also a great place to relax and catch some sunshine in the waterside garden. A winner for all the family. And if it’s delicious homemade cakes and proper coffee you are after then why not pop in to 4. The Galley, just up the road from Tasty Tavern Treats in Horning? After a delicious lunch turn your Herbert Woods day boat around and head slowly back to Potter Heigham. Why not stop off at South Walsham Outer Broad and take in a trip to the 5. Fairhaven Woodland and Water Garden. An oasis of tranquility. And, if you still have some space for some cakes, the Kingfisher Café is close at hand. With your batteries recharged it’s now time to return to Herbert Woods at Potter Heigham! TAVERN TASTY MEATS
NEW INN AT HORNING
Brilliant a c i s Bras rdener Ellen Mary ga en ch it k r u o th n o This m g cauliflower n ti ea d an g in w o gr t tells us all abou
R EC I P E W I T H E L L E N M A RY
MOROCCAN STYLE CAULIFLOWER COUSCOUS
Cauliflower florets can be steamed, boiled or eaten raw. I love the crunch of raw cauliflower dipped in a selection of sauces. Of course boiling and serving up with a roast dinner is well known but a simple cauliflower couscous is incredibly tasty and a great alternative to rice and pasta if you are avoiding wheat or gluten.
INGREDIENTS 1 cauliflower head; 1 large carrot, peeled and grated; 1 onion, peeled and chopped; 1/2 tsp of chilli flakes (or to your taste); 1 bunch of fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped; 1 handful of plum tomatoes, chopped; 1 handful of fresh rocket leaves; 1 vegetable stock; 300ml of water, for the stock METHOD Cut the cauliflower into small florets and put them into a food processor. The best way is to use the pulse setting, until the cauliflower looks like couscous. Soften the onion and garlic in a frying pan with just a small amount of the stock and water. Add the cooked onion mix to the cauliflower in a bowl and mix in the carrot, chilli flakes (to your taste so check the amount), some of the mint leaves and the remaining vegetable stock and water. Make sure it is all mixed together well. Simmer the mix on a low heat for about 8 minutes. Donâ€™t allow any of the ingredients to burn in the pan. Remove from the heat when the cauliflower is cooked (but still has a nice crunch) and toss in with the tomatoes. Serve with the rocket, sprinkle on the remaining mint leaves and - if you want to go that step further - add some grilled halloumi (not forgetting a glass of white wine!)
During winter, when there isnâ€™t so much harvesting to be done, one vegetable that comes up trumps is the cauliflower. Winter cauliflowers planted out at the end of last summer survive the hard frosts as long as the outer leaves have been tied over the tops of the heads. Cauliflower is one of the most nutritious of all the vegetables and is packed full of minerals and vitamins such as C, K and B6, is totally fat free and provides all round health promoting goodness.
Spring Vegetables G R O W
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White cauliflower heads were believed to have originated in Asia Minor, later loved by Louis XIV and became very popular in Europe, especially in France during the 16th century. It has become well-loved in stews, soups and even curries - and not forgetting tasty cauliflower cheese. If you choose the right varieties, cauliflower can be harvested all year and one to sow now is ‘Clapton’ with dense white heads, full of flavour and with extra disease resistance to clubroot. They are an immensely satisfying vegetable to grow and with some tips will provide you with plenty of nutritious, white heads.
How to grow
For more information and advice, visit www.ellenmarygardening.co.uk
SOW At this time of year sow your seeds inside, up until May, about 1.5cm deep. When the seedlings become big enough to handle, thin them out to about 5cm apart. The soil needs to be kept moist but don’t overwater them. Start to harden the plants off by placing them outside during the day and bring them in again at night until the soil is warm enough to plant outside about 60cm apart. Make sure they are firm into the soil. CARE Make sure your cauliflowers are watered well and to prevent damage by pests, it is best to cover them over with fine netting to keep both birds and caterpillars away! Placing cabbage collars around the base is a great way to keep cabbage root fly from laying eggs by the base and they expand as the stems grow. They need fertile, well drained, moist soil and give the planting area a good amount of well-rotted manure before planting out. HARVEST Harvest between July and October but sowing at other times means you can harvest almost all year. Start harvesting when the heads are firm and before the florets start to separate. You will know when to harvest as the head will be compact and white (or green/purple/orange if you are growing the colourful variety)! Cut off from the main stem leaving a few outer leaves attached which helps to protect the head before you are ready to eat it.
Yo u c a n fo ll o w R a c h e l's a ll o tm e n t a n ti c s o n Tw it te r : @ tr e a tl ik e d ir t
F E A T U R E
Weed All About It March is a hectic month on the allotment, but has a seed of doubt been sown in newbie plot holder Rachel Birtwhistle's patch?
AS I SQUAT down to mark out a section of my freshly dug plot, a man wanders across to me. ‘Have you chitted yet?’ he asks. ‘Excuse me?’ I say, standing up abruptly. ‘You need to get chitting, but don't plant anything in the ground until you can put your bare bum on the soil.’ That statement made, he wanders off. This is just one of many allotment conversations I have had where I'm left perplexed. Chitting, it transpires, has nothing to do with manure, it is in fact what you do to potatoes to start the growing process off before planting them in the soil. I choose a variety of seed potatoes called 'Vivaldi' because I walked down the aisle to music from The Four Seasons. (To put my decision making into further context, I also buy bottles of wine because I like the picture on the front). A week later the same man wanders past my allotment - this time I excitedly accost him to explain how I have ‘chitted Vivaldi’. He looks baffled, says nothing and walks away. I have dug 125 square metres of weeds by hand, hands that once
had long finger nails and soft skin. They are now covered in calluses and blisters with the allotment equivalent of a French manicure - a permanent black line under the nails. Yet I am bursting with pride that I have already transformed a plot of weeds into a plot of potential. But what happens next? A good compost bin, according to the many books I have bought on allotments is essential, so I set about looking at what my allotment neighbours have done for inspiration. The allotment is a curious cross between a shanty town and a garden centre. Lots of growing paraphernalia surrounded by crates, corrugated plastic, random window panes and oddly constructed sheds, greenhouses and compost bins. It has a really honest, practical, homemade feel - it is make do and mend at its very best. It would be fair to say that most of my DIY projects are not met with critical acclaim, however, down at the allotment my crate compost bin has received many design compliments.
These swiftly evaporate when I proudly exclaim the compost bin is already full-to-bursting with weeds. Weeds apparently do not make good compost, which is a shame as my compost bin is 100 per cent weed based. My heart sinks slightly at the thought of the weeds taking their revenge, but provided that I leave them to rot, the compost should be okay to use - in a year or two's time, depending on whose advice you take! Plot planning has been great fun but daunting. My first thought was to be adventurous and grow things I'd never find in the supermarket, but then I decide it's probably best to be savvy about our produce requirements. As a family, we could save ourselves a fortune by producing crops that are costly to buy yet can be grown cheaply from seed. Surrounded by seed catalogues I stick steadfastly to my new allotment mantra ‘cheap to grow, expensive to buy’. March has been long awaited, I'm feeling surprisingly confident about my produce selection and eager to start sowing and planting.
Proud sponsors of
Rachel Birtwhistle’s allotment column and your friendly and knowledgeable first port of call for all things horticultural
01263 731510 www.woodgatenursery.co.uk
Cawston Road, Aylsham, Norwich, Norfolk NR11 6UH
Julia Martin PURPLE PLUM CATERING
T H E
L A S T
B I T E
www.purp leplumcate ring.co.uk
NORWICH’S JULIA MARTIN WAS SO FASCINATED BY FOOD THAT SHE STARTED HER OWN BUSINESS, PURPLE PLUM CATERING Who are you and what do you do? We are predominantly wedding caterers, basing our work around our love of fabulous, local, fresh food with a bespoke twist. We have catered for weddings with Lebanese, Persian, Spanish, French and English menus - but all using Norfolk produce. We find that having an usual menu brings something fun and interesting to the day. What is your background? I was born in Norwich, studied at City College and have travelled a lot; I have worked in London and LA, running restaurants and events. I started with friends’ weddings as I was cooking a lot of allergy free food for cafés, and they wanted that style of big salads, sharing platters with lovely local produce, and interesting flavours and tastes. I now spend most of my time meeting clients, planning menus and cooking new dishes. I love running my own company. How did you come up with the name for your company? I wanted something that involved
both food and colour, and my mum and I spent a long, late night with some wine, thinking through ideas and we came up with Purple Plum. We hear you have a new venue for weddings in South Norfolk? Tell us a little about it. We wanted to be able to deliver all kinds of events at a venue that we could really develop and evolve. The barn is beautiful: understated which gives the client and ourselves huge scope to make it exactly how they want. We plan to develop the site, with tipis, wood fired pizza ovens and more so we can offer retreats, launch parties, balls and so on. What are the current foodie trends for weddings? Sharing platters and ‘family style’ dining are both very popular - they are enjoyable ways for guests to get to know each other. Many couples go for extras, such as with chouros vans, doughnut labs, street food stalls - you can really experiment. What's the most unusual foodie request you've had? Kenyan goat curry! The guests were very unsure at first but finished every last bit.
Tell us about your Lebanese menu - how did that come about? A few years ago I was doing a lot of pop up supper clubs, often with a Lebanese theme as I love their cuisine - the flavours are wonderful. And they are great fun to make. I put one of my menus on my website and brides started to ask for it! Dishes can be tweaked but they always raise a smile. How importance is local produce to you? Supporting Norfolk producers is key to what we do. We have built up some fantastic contacts and friends over the years and watched many businesses grow and flourish. The huge wealth of products on offer is amazing and really is the cherry on the cake, so to speak, of what we offer. Many of our clients are based in Norfolk and want to also support our local produce and producers. What's your top tip when planning your wedding breakfast? Stick to your guns! Don’t get swayed by trends or your family! Choose food that is fresh and seasonal and not overly fussy let it speak for itself.
The Links C O U N T RY PA R K H OT E L
Exclusive. Historic.Distinctive. Get married in the glorious North Norfolk countryside at our family-run hotel, complete with indoor pool and golf course. The self contained Runton Suite caters for up to 250 guests. Civil ceremonies welcome. Superb locally sourced dishes. Executive and superior bedrooms. Fabulous coastal setting with 40-acres of parkland. Dreams can come true - just bring your imagination!
Contact our wedding specialists for more The Links Country Park Hotel, West Runton T: 01263 838383
W W W. L I N K S - H OT E L . CO .U K
Feast Norfolk is a fresh new monthly magazine dedicated to the thriving food and drink scene in Norfolk.
Published on Mar 1, 2017
Feast Norfolk is a fresh new monthly magazine dedicated to the thriving food and drink scene in Norfolk.