Wired September 2012

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Step 5 continued...

Step 9

Now slip the spare strap over the gudgeon pin, to make sure that hte gate opens right back to the fence without becoming hinge-bound.

Step 6

Lay a batten, or make a line o the ground out from the face of the strainer post, at 45 degrees to act as a guide fro drilling the holes for the gudgeons.

Step 10

Lift the gate into position; slide the top strap over the gudgeon, and block the other end of the gate until the gate is the thickness of the capping rail above the strianer post. This will allow the gate to settle without spoiling its performance or appearance.

Step 11

Step 7

Drill a hole for the bottom gudgeon, sighting down onto the batten or ground mark for directional guidance. repeat for the top gudgeon hole.

Slip the bottom strap over the gudgeon and clamp it to the gate, using a G-clamp. Now swing the gate to make sure it clears the ground through its whole opening and closing arc. If it is clear, drill the holes fo rthe bolts, and fix the strap to the gate. Remove the G-clamp.

Step 12

Place the latch on the inside of hte gate, so that hte gate when closed has very little movement and will be stockproof against the most persistant animal.

Step 8

Slide the gudgeons into position and tighten, leaving baout 40mm between the post and the face of the pin.

NOTES

1. You have the options of fixing the bottom strap first instead of the top strap, following exactly the same procedure; or clamping both straps on the gate before drilling holes.

I

2. The gap between the bottom of the gate and the ground should be no more than 100 - 150mm. So check that your strainer posts are put in at the correct height, allowing for metal to be placed at the gateways.

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