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FAULT Magazine

SPRING

Spring 2013

DAISY LOWE

ÂŁ 15

taste ISSN 1758-5287

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The Taste Issue

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SIMULACRA STUDIO Simulacra Studio is an impressive space in the heart of South London, housedwithin the former Brixton East Station, dating back to the 1800s. Run by photographers, this is a professional environment with many complimentary features, including a luxurious makeup area with barber’s chair and vintage mirrors, a prop and scenery construction workshop, client mezzanine, re-touching suite and even a bar with a pool table for a little after-shoot wind-down. It’s a studio that breathes creativity and technicality with a friendly attitude.

Check out our exclusive menswear editorial produced by FAULT, featuring standout pieces from the Issey Miyake Men Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

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Spring 2013 | Taste

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2 CONTENTS 3 MASTHEAD 4 EDITORS’ LETTER 166 DIRECTORY 168 LAST WORD

STYLE

FILM

8 MOST WANTED Larsson & Jennings

95 RECIPE FOR SUCCESS With Oz: The Great and Powerful, Zach Braff shows us that comedy is just a taste of what’s to come from him.

10 DAYDREAMS “Angels watch me through the night, and wake me with the morning light.” 18 CULT APPEAL Embrace your fête. 21 ANIMAL SPIRIT Taste of the jungle 29 TRIBALS Touch the void. 38 TIDAL WAVE Dive into Spring/Summer 2013. 44 SUPER STYLE Metallic is more. 49 FEMME FATALE Embrace the dark. 54 SAVAGES Live as we live.

102 CHALLENGING PERCEPTIONS A brief history of actress Rachael Leigh Cook.

MEN 107 IN THE BLOOD Max Irons is on track to serious stardom. 114 HIGH OCTANE 116 THE COURTEENERS Yesterday, today and definitely tomorrow 122 PAPER DREAMS An exclusive menswear editorial featuring standout pieces from the Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

BEAUTY

134 THE MAN WHO SAVED THE WORLD

60 LOWE AND BEHOLD The life and times of a model London girl.

FOCUS

71 BEAUTY KING John Stapleton, senior makeup artist at M.A.C, gives us an insight into the industry. 72 SWEPT AWAY 75 SLAVE TO FASHION 78 GARDEN OF EARTHLY DELIGHTS Eat some forbidden fruit this Spring. 86 GHOST Ethereal splendour 90 FALLEN ANGEL

139 SPOTLIGHT FAULT shines a light on Tadashi Shoji’s newest capsule collection. 142 ADDICTED TO SUCCESS 145 WILD AT HEART British songstress Kate Nash touches base with FAULT. 151 WORLDLY SAVAGES Say hello to Belgrade-born, boozefuelled anarchic gypsy rock. 153 ZULEKHA LAKECA 158 FOUNDING FATHER 160 ART 13

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PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Nick Artsruni ART DIRECTOR Caroline Lawless U.S. STYLE EDITOR Avo Yermagyan MUSIC EDITOR Era Trieman CONTRIBUTORS Kailas Lindsay Adler Louie Banks Alexander Beer David Benoliel Leah Blewitt Olgac Bozalp Jenny Brough Chaunielle Brown Sam Burnett Joel Cartier Kee Chang Gaélle Correa Charmaine Dresser Nadine Engel Paul Farnham Cristina Firpo Stefan Giffthaler Jared Green Stephen Hamilton Tallulah Harlech Dominic Herder Rebecca Hopkins Bryan Huynh Giulio Iurissevich James D. Kelly Kristine Kilty Marina Kloess Damien Krisl Zulekha Lakeca Caroline Lawless Muriel Liebmann Nancy Lu Matthew Lyn Daniela Macé Rossiter Billy Mahone Giovanni Martins Alegna Merlino Vijat Mohindra Marika Page Rebeka Roy Harriet Salem Tadashi Shoji Dove Shore John Stapleton Cristian di Stefano Victoria Stevens Arndt Stobba Luke Storey Mairi-Luise Tabbakh Luca Termine Rebecca Unger

NORTH AMERICAN EDITOR IN CHIEF Leah Blewitt CHIEF STYLIST Tallulah Harlech FASHION India James Marika Page PARIS EDITORS Hans Weinheimer Ruth Kramer Kat Rutherford SPECIAL THANKS Beth Brookfield Jean-Philippe Jallu Sami Knight Julian Ruiz Simulacra Studios St Martin’s Lane Hotel Joelle Thurston Louiza Vick Jordan Wallace

SUBSCRIBE TO FAULT 1 year = 4 issues (via air mail) U.K. £35 Europe €45 World €50 1 year online (via Zinio) U.K. £12 MUSIC SUBMISSIONS music@fault-magazine.com ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES advertising@fault-magazine.com REPRESENTED BY Nick Julebin, media consultant nick@seen-media.info seen-media.info

LONDON OFFICE Suite 7 40 Craven St. London WC2N 5NG United Kingdom COMMENTS AND CORRECTIONS We would like to issue a retrospective credit to Michael Taylor (michaeltaylorphoto.com) for his feature in Issue 13. His piece on page 80 of said issue was miscredited and should have been labelled Luminescence 64. In addition to Michael Taylor himself, the credits listed below should also have been issued for this image. Model: Sara Dylan; costumes: Lynne Dick; styling: Barbara Ann Carville; venue: Cube Theatre, Belfast. We would also like to extend our apologies to M.r Andrea Ongaro for failing to credit him for the location photos in our Berlin feature in Issue 13. Photographs of Kauf Dich Glucklich, Garage, C/O and the Michelburger hotel should all have been credited to Andrea Ongaro.

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THE TASTE ISSUE editors’ letter

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“Generally speaking, I think that working without excessive calculation, when you can work with ease and freedom, gives you some creative breathing space. That way, you can work with your own instincts rather than under the pressure of rigorous guidelines. That is what I did with this piece, even though it was a special commission. Being fearless, I feel, is the best way to reach a true result—both for your own integrity and also for commissioned work, when you have to play the game a bit, when other people are looking over your shoulder. A lot of my best works are always a perfect accident: authentic, spontaneous, uncontrollable. This, for me, is true inspiration.” —illustrator Giulio Iurissevich on “The Queen” (page 1), a special commission for FAULT’s Spring 2013 Taste issue.

The Taste issue seeks to embrace the flavours of FAULT. Forged in London, fired in New York, flambéed in Paris ... the FAULT palate is thoroughly international. That said, London has always been our spiritual home: it’s where the magazine was born and where a large number of our contributors are still based. For most people, their city of origin forms a major part of their identity; it infuses their desires, their sensibilities, their TASTE. Who better, then, to feature on our front cover than North London born and bred supermodel Daisy Lowe? And who better to inspire Giulio Iurissevich’s work “The Queen”, commissioned exclusively for FAULT Issue 14? In the illustration, details from Louie Banks’ stunning shoot with Daisy meld with pop culture and high culture references galore. From the Clash to McQueen to “God Save the Queen”—and everything in between—this is our take on timeless taste. Never mind the bollocks. This is your FAULT.

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STYLE photography JAMES D. KELLY illustration CAROLINE LAWLESS

Taste, the theme for this issue of FAULT, was chosen by British style arbiter Tallulah Harlech. Occasionally referred to in the context of her mother, the iconic Lady Amanda Harlech, Tallulah’s sartorial sensibilities are entirely her own. After having the pleasure of working with Tallulah, who has been acting as the magazine’s chief stylist in recent times, we can wholeheartedly attest to her single-mindedness in all things, and in particular her wholly individual taste. The budding actress is a highly respected member of the British Fashion Council and works, in that capacity, as an international ambassador for British fashion. FAULT Issue 14’s fashion content was curated exclusively by Tallulah: Each editorial reflects her own inimitable sense of style. We would like thank Tallulah for acting as a source of inspiration for our Taste and for her advice on how to present it throughout this issue.

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SAVAGES Live as we live.

photography BILLY MAHONIE styling CHAUNIELLE BROWN photography assistant D. JUNGE hair AKIHISA YAMAGUCHI makeup EMILY AMICK models TAMARA + BARBARA VASLE @ MARILYN NY, MARIEL @ WILHELMINA

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Top by Camilla and Marc, pants by Jen Kao, shoes by Aperlai and model’s own fur coat.

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STYLE savages

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Blouse by Veronica Spadaro, shorts by Titania Inglis, stockings by Falke, shoes by Aperlai and sunglasses by A-Morir.

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STYLE savages

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From left to right: Necklace by Lømo and blouse by Veronica Spadaro; necklace by Akong, blouse by Daniella Kallmeyer and pants by Marissa Webb; jumpsuit by Martin Grant, shoes by Andrew Kayla, gloves by Lacrasia and hairstylist’s own headpiece.

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STYLE savages

Jacket by Kiki Vargas, dress by Valentino and gloves by Carolina Amato.

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BEAUTY

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BEAUTY daisy lowe

E R A N E Y M R O A N I “W D R O A D R N A , EXT S E R D U L T U A O E H S CR E R N O O F Y D R E E T V A E R B E L ” . E E C R A BE Y E H T O H W

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Shirt by Aminaka Wilmont, bodice by Charlie Le Mindu and gloves by Agent Provocateur.

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BEAUTY daisy lowe

Collar and trousers by Karl Lagerfeld Paris, shirt by BLK Denim, dress (worn as waistcoat) by Moncler, shoes by Christian Louboutin and whip by Agent Provocateur.

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John Stapleton, senior makeup artist at M.A.C, gives us an insight into the industry. words LEAH BLEWITT photography VIJAT MOHINDRA

T

he first thing you should know about John Stapleton is that he has spent time not only behind the camera, but in front of it as well. With a background in fine art, Stapleton originally started off in the industry as a professional model. He applied the same principals of his formal artistic training to the fashion world. His approach to makeup in particular is simple in the fact that it’s all about the person with whom he is currently working. It might sound obvious, but the critical aspect of make up artistry does not lie in any one technique or method, says Stapleton, but in approaching each client individually based on their needs. Makeup, John says, is an art form in which the human face is the canvas. The most important factor in that artistic process, however, is the personal interaction between the make up artist and his/her client(s). Stapleton is truly a “multi-threat” in the business: His incredible work can be seen on the faces of countless celebrities, in print editorials and—last but certainly not least—on runways for the likes of McQueen, Ferragamo and Missoni. Undoubtedly, it is his unique multi-genre expertise that has made him such a stand-out name in the makeup community. FAULT had the pleasure of working with John and one of his personal clients, Kelly Osbourne, last Summer for FAULT issue 12. We caught up with John again this year at the Sundance Film Festival, prior to his numerous jobs at fashion weeks around the world.

With such an incredible portfolio of work, with whom do you like working the most?

I love working with all [my] clients. Applying makeup is such a personal thing; you really get to know the person. Seeing the “magic” that makeup can achieve and paying attention to each and every client and making that person (no matter who they are) feel great about

themselves—whether it be a model, a celebrity or anyone else—is what it’s all about for me. After all these years in the industry, what keeps you motivated creatively as an artist?

I love trying new things. I love people-watching and seeing what’s going on in the streets— what’s happening out there.

You’ve worked with so many celebrities. How does that differ from, say, runway or fashion-oriented work?

The biggest thing is time; there is never enough time! [Laughs] The reality is that, the bigger the celebrity, the less time you have with them. They also have a billion people with them, so you have to take that all in stride. The same applies for the runway as well. I do thrive off pressure, and I always think about the person I’m working with. Say, for example, at international fashion weeks: Models are in and out of so many shows with so little time between them, so we [myself and my team] always work as fast as we can and are conscientious to be careful and as gentle as possible with each model we work with. We love the fact that you also promote men’s grooming and makeup. Can you tell us more about that?

More and more men’s skincare—as well as makeup—is becoming mainstream, acceptable and less “scary”. I’ve filmed a few video tutorials but, put simply, basic skincare is a must, as is just playing around with different looks. For instance, eye liner for a smokey rock ’n’ roll look, concealer to even out skin tone and blemishes . . . basically, just try a few things out and have fun with it!

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STYLE

title goes here

FALLEN ANGEL photography MURIEL LIEBMANN styling NICOLE SCHNEIDER hair/makeup CAROLIN JARCHOW model SONJA VAN DEN HEEVER @ BOS

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Opposite: Waistcoat by Zara, suspenders and fishnets by Agent Provocateur, bodice by Triumph and boots by Dr. Martens. This page: Bra by What Katie Did, bodice by Chantelle and tights by Falke.

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BEAUTY

title goes here

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Opposite: Bra by Eres. This page: Lingerie by Eres and belt by Joop!.

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Bra by Eres.

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FILM

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LAST WORD

st martins lane hotel

FAULT Travel: We review London’s St Martins Lane Hotel, the five-star pinnacle of contemporary metropolitan design.

M

organ’s Hotel Group has a proven track record of providing sophisticated urban hospitality with a flourish. We showcased another of their London hotels, The Sanderson, last year in FAULT Issue 10. Just like the Sanderson, the stylish St Martins Lane Hotel is a triumph of boutique designer chic. In addition to the expected perks of a sumptuous five-star venue— ideally located in the heart of Soho in Central London—the St Martins Lane Hotel has an edge over most “luxury” accommodation because of its incomparable taste. From the outside, the full-length glass exterior to the entrance somehow manages to look understated in its elegance. Impenetrable white curtains act as the perfect veil for the beauty housed within, where a minimalist scheme finds balance in delightful individual designer pieces of furniture. Indeed, each item in the lobby—from the regal, cream-crested armchair to the series of enormous white columns that fill the hall—seems more of a work of art in itself rather than a mere base object. Designer Phillipe Starck finds beauty in the bare lines of the building rather than in arbitrary flourishes of grandeur. Once inside, one realises that the main feature of this room is, in fact, the light itself that floods through the one part of the entrance that is not artfully disguised by curtains: the implausibly tall yellow glass revolving doors. The trick of offsetting the clean, airy backdrop with charmingly singular design pieces is not, however, maintained throughout the hotel. Far from it. Oversized chess pieces await the more curious

guest, while a thirsty one will venture further through the lobby towards the Light Bar. The latter is a wash of sometimes-sharp, sometimes pastel colours, and the bar takes its name and nature from the built-in skylights that flood the room, along with a series of intriguingly gratuitous candles and candelabras. The idiosyncratic Asia de Cuba restaurant is an institution, best left to the palate of the guest in question than for a brief review, which would hardly do the sumptuous international cuisine any justice. Suffice to say that innovation meets gastronomical excellence in this space of condensed and superlative beauty. The rooms themselves offer unprecedented views of London from a unique vantage point in the centre of the city. Again, better to take a look for yourself than to rely on our words—check out one of the hotel’s exquisite suites as showcased in our editorial with Max Irons (check out his feature in our Men’s section, which starts on page 107) for a taste of the understated splendour on offer. Overall, we can do no more than give our highest recommendation for the superlative St Martins Lane Hotel. More of a lifestyle choice than mere accommodation for those who appreciate beauty in its simplest, most elegant form, the St Martins Lane hotel is a natural choice. St Martins Lane Hotel, 45 St Martins Lane, London WC2N 4HX For more information, please visit stmartinslane.com.

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SIMULACRA STUDIO Simulacra Studio is an impressive space in the heart of South London, housedwithin the former Brixton East Station, dating back to the 1800s. Run by photographers, this is a professional environment with many complimentary features, including a luxurious makeup area with barber’s chair and vintage mirrors, a prop and scenery construction workshop, client mezzanine, re-touching suite and even a bar with a pool table for a little after-shoot wind-down. It’s a studio that breathes creativity and technicality with a friendly attitude.

Check out our exclusive menswear editorial produced by FAULT, featuring standout pieces from the Issey Miyake Men Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

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FAULT Issue 14 Teaser  

Teaser version of FAULT Issue 14 (Spring '13). Get the full digital version from Zinio.com: http://gb.zinio.com/browse/publications/single-i...