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TANZANIA’S FASHION & STYLE MAGAZINE ISSUE 8
women’s rights THE FASHION OF
s an editor of a quarterly glossy magazine, you might think that I am being a hypocrite by devoting a whole issue to ‘Women’s Rights’ in company with recommendations on how to wear and where to find the season’s new fashion trends. But how I choose to wear and decorate my space or the beauty products I use and where I vacation are all expressions of my femininity. In reality, almost all my life choices including my appearance are connected to the way I present myself as a woman in the world. This is why I find separating women’s issues from fashion to be a restrictive and old fashioned assumption - which I am not very interested in. We live in a time which we are witnessing grassroots movements on women’s rights issues around the world - although such rights are still lagging behind on the African continent. Some of you men and women reading this may see no problem existing on the women’s rights frontier while some of you may already be on the feminist frontline - whether you are vocal against early child marriage or advocating equal pay at work. According to UNESCO, there are still less girls than boys attending higher education institutions in Tanzania. This risks having almost no women in skilled jobs in the future. Yet, evidence clearly shows that there are huge social, economic and health benefits to be gained when women are involved. Encouraging equality and fairness for 50% of the population should not be a difficult approach to support whether you are a man or a woman. Another reason why I am passionate about women’s rights is that I recently became a mother to a little girl and obviously I care about her future. I want her to grow up knowing she can choose to do or be whatever she desires without restrictions based on her gender. In the future, if she earns the same as men in the same profession, if she will lead a successful business, or if she has a seat in parliament will highly depend the values and expectations her parents instil in her. What are we doing today to make life easier for future generations of women in Tanzania? Are we saying no ways of thinking which limit women from contributing to their full potential? Are we encouraging young girls to study skills traditionally thought to be for men? Are we teaching young boys that true equality for women can only exist if men also demand it? I hope you let the information and visual originality of FAS magazine issue 8 settle in your psyche and inspire you to make an effort in tackling inequality and unfairness against women when you witness it. We live in a time when femininity is in constant change and gender boundaries are being constantly questioned and investigated. For this, we remind you how fashion and women’s rights are pulling through together against old fashioned attitudes, sexist thinking that often does not serve us well. As Nelson Mandela said, “freedom can not be achieved unless women have been emancipated from all forms of oppression.”
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Copyright Content @FAS Magazine 2018. Registered and licenced in the United Republic of Tanzania. May not be reprinted or copied without written permission.
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CONTRIBUTORS GUEST LIST
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TANZANIA’S FASHION & STYLE MAGAZINE ISSUE 8
always in FAS 08 SUBSCRIBE TO FAS MAGAZINE
Never miss an issue - have FAS delivered to your door. Photograph Instagram @Dianaflave
03 EDITOR’S NOTE Abdul MOHAMED
04 FAS ONLINE
women’s rights THE FASHION OF
07 GUEST LIST - CONTRIBUTORS
the fashion memo PAGE 18
Feminism has chosen fashion to communicate it! The big four feminine inspired looks to have on your radar.
rights are pulling through together.
29 WOMEN AND FEMINISM IN TANZANIA Women of various ages share views and experiences about feminism and culture in Tanzania.
space & design
26 BLACK PANTHER
30 PURPLE REIGN
27 A TALE OF TRUE CAMARADERIE
In this time of #metoo movement, where gender boundaries are being questioned and investigated Amina Lukanza reminds us how fashion and women’s
Freelance Writer See article on page 27
Model Batuli Mohamed Make-up Louise Harrison Photographer Abdul Mohamed Creative Direction & Styling Shellina Ebrahim
14 STYLING TIPS
The movie which broke box office records, preconceived attitudes about the role of women in society and faulty ideas about African beauty.
Instagram @batuli.mohammed See page 18-25
Gem Discoveries, Maximum Drama and straw dreams of a Bag Lady - accessories making an impact right now.
This beauty editorial signifies how flowers and women are linked through commodification and sexualization for capital gain and in contrast, how women are using botanical metaphors to reclaim their identities and ‘Bloom’ to their full potential.
Batuli MOHAMMED Model
12 TRENDGUIDE - ACCESSORIES
18 BEAUTY EDITORIAL - FLOWER POWER
Graphics Designer & Photographer
Purple done right! Expert tips on how to create a refreshing space with this distinguishing hue.
entertainment 10 FOOD & DRINK
Cocktail recipes incorporating Zanzibari spices for those who like to zest up their entertainment.
Fabian ANDERHUBER Mixologist SPICE ISLAND Hotel & Resort, Zanzibar See cocktail recipes on page 10 7.
Instagram @abdul8819 Pixelbase.co.tz See images on pages 18 - 25
Make Up Artist, Painter & Body Art Painter Instagram @Louise_Harrison email@example.com See page 18-25
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ENTERTAINING Ideas to Wow Guests
Fruit and spice cocktails have been all the rage lately. What better place for mixologists to come up with delicious spice infused cocktail recipes than in an island well known for itâ€™s spices! We visited Spice Island Hotel & Resort in Zanzibar and tried some of the most savory cocktails made of various spices that you should definitely be adding to your drinks. The best part? You probably already have these spices in your kitchen.
FOOD & DRINK
PHOTOGRAPHED BY SHELLINA EBRAHIM COCKTAILS BY FABIAN ANDERHUBER
SPARKLING PRICKLY PEAR
Fill 1/4 of wine glass with crushed ice and 4 buds of star anis spice. Add 4 cl of prickly pear juice (gives the cocktail the deep red colour and fruity flavour). Pour white sparkling wine and garnish with hibiscus flower, a piece of lemon and orange.
HONEY BUNNY A sweet and sour cocktail calls for cardamon spice. Add 6 crushed cardamon pods, 6 cl of your favourite gin, 3 cl of lime syrup, 3 cl of honey and some ice in a shaker and shake well. Strain, pour into a martini glass and enjoy a tangy and aromatic Honey Bunny.
TANZANIAN Discovery An extremely rare type of gemstone is making it’s mark in the world of fine jewellery right now. Kornerupine, is usually found in clear yellow or brown colour. Recently, a vivid green version of this gemstone was found in Tanzania. Resembling an emerald, except that Kornerupine displays multiple colours depending on the angle it’s viewed from. This brilliant gemstone has quickly caught the eye of international designers such as Nirav Modi who has set the gemstone on a ring complemented with reverse set rose cut diamonds in his recent collection. Kornerupine is said to enlighten and focus one’s mind, lift spirits and transform life.
Image Getty Images
Embroidered straw tote $685 www.net-a-porter.com
Nirav Modi white gold, diamonds and hornerupine ring (2.76 carats) www.thejewelleryeditor.com
Malibu Woven Straw Crossbody www.michaelkors.com
Marc Jacobs Collection. Photo harpersbazaar.com
Mosaic round ratan straw bag www.polkadee.com
2017 kept it minimal in the jewellery department. 2018 is breaking all the rules of fashion. The motto - the bigger the better! You can find over sized earrings that flow charmingly past shoulders in recent collections of designers such as Celine, Zimmerman and Saint Laurent for example. Go ahead and make a statement with this maximalist moment fashion is having. It will uplift your mood and can surely dress up a dull outfit. 12.
Straw bags make us think of picnics, the beach and summer! We are seeing all manner of ways in which both feminine, sophisticated, and casual design elements are implemented in the design of these bags. Chains, leather, metal locks, pom poms and fringe are adding details to wicker.
Embroidered raffia belt bag www.zimmermannwear.com
Basket tote www.philliplim.com
Celine SS18 Image Getty
Handle basket www.zara.com
Photo Instagram @patmcgrathreal Matte Trance Lipstick in Lavender from Pat Mcgrathreal Labs
The adoration of all things ‘botanical” has reached a new level this season. Take inspiration from Alexander McQueens long dresses trailing top to bottom with floral embroideries or Jeremy Scott’s transformation of models into giant sized flowers and bouquets in their Spring Summer 2018 Collections.
reign Photo www.pantone.com
Expressive yet mysterious is what Pantone’s Colour of 2018 is all about. Ultra Violet dominates fashion in versatile ways that suit both men and women. It can be paired with all sorts of colours.
Ralph & Russo SS18 Image Instagram @ralphandrusso
Moschino Collection Photo wmagazine.com
Make the most of this trend during this rainy season by wearing a floral printed blouse underneath a see through raincoat. Moschino Collection Photo wmagazine.com
Large bold floral prints give this trend a more modern and fashion appeal
Marchesa FW2018 Photo Instagram @Marchesafashion
Top & Right: Bottega Veneta F/W18. Images www.voguemagazine.com
Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2018 . Photo www.vogue.com
Top: Miu Miu Transparent black trim raincoat Image www.brownsfashion.com
When it comes to totally chic clothing, shoes and jewellery, watch this expressive colour dominate in two opposite directions. Vibrant rich palettes of purples, blues and mangeta on one side. Soft shades of pastels in lavender and pink on another side. 15.15. FASMAGAZINE.COM FASMAGAZINE.COM
Top right: Tom Ford Spring 2018 Images Yannis Vlamos/Indigital.tv
Nothing says feminine more than ruffles, frills, sheer transparent fabrics, mid length dresses and off shoulder designs. That’s exactly what designers demonstrated on the runway for this season.
NEW POWER Photo courtesy Instagram @Eliesaabworldd
Femininity has always worked best served in light and airy fabrics and a barely there palette. Think transpar‘Le Souk’ by Jacquemus Winter 2018 ent outerwear, dresses and Photo Instagram @jacquemus skirts revealing what lies beneath when it comes to making the most out of the see through trend. Romantic designs such as bullowing sleeves and wide open shoulder blouses are the heroes of feminine style this season. While off shoulder design restricted women’s movements in the past, today women bearing open shoulders is as much a display of feminine power as broad mascuine shoulders are a display of masculinity. Let your collar bones steal the spotlight while speaking body positivity and power dressing.
Spring/Summer 2018 runways saw a revival of 70’s and 80’s inspired looks with a feminine twist. There’s plenty of classic inspired looks to take the modern woman straight from boardroom to cocktail hour. Climbing the corporate ladder shouldn’t mean dressing in rigid suits to fit in with men. It should be about giving women enough wardrobe choices to put together looks that reflect true personal style without hiding their femininity.
Balmain Collection Photo Instagram @Hariethpaul
Photo courtesy Instagram @Halpernstudio
Right & Top: Cushnie et ochs Fall/Winter 2018 Photo Instagram @Cushnieetochs
Alexander Mcqueen Getty Images
Top: Cushnie et ochs SS 2018 collection Photo Instagram @Cushnieetochs Left: Cushnie et ochs Fall/Winter 2018. Photo Instagram @Cushnieetochs
Cushnie et ochs Spring/Summer 2018 Photo Instagram @Cushnieetochs
Gender lines become blurred this year and women are empowered.P ick and mix pieces from both the male and female closets to create looks that express your confidence. Take inspiration from Marc Jacobs laid back suits or Cushnie et Ochs’ frilled suit collars and corsets paired with cropped pants. Forget the skinny pant for a moment. The iconic 1970’s bell bottom pant is big business for retailers right now. Whether in shiny fabrics, high waist design, decorated or cropped hems, there’s plenty of cool and comfortable choices to chanel your inner disco diva.
bloom Photographer Abdul Mohamed Hair / Makeup Louise Harrison Model Batuli Mohammed Styling Shellina Ebrahim
Intimate Affair 20.
20 21. FASMAGAZINE.COM FASMAGAZINE.COM FASMAGAZINE.COM
CULTURE The movie which breake box office records, pre conceived attitudes about the role of women in society and ideas about African beauty.
Photo courtesy Instagram @Marvelstudios
f you haven’t watched it by now, it’s safe to assume you have heard about it already. The movie which broke not just box office records by earning $201.8 million just three days after being released in February 2018 and also smashed the belief that films with black heroes can’t be a success. Yes, the movie with an all black cast of actors dressed in costumes inspired from various parts of the African continent speaking Xhosa. Welcome to Wakanda! Apart from breaking records, what makes Black Panther the movie especially special is how it has revived a unique movement of pride and celebration when it comes to being a woman and/or being black. Photo courtesy Instagram @Marvelstudios
The excitement being witnessed due to the success of Black Panther continues everyday. Not just because the film has black actors - some of whom come from the continent, such as Lupita Nyongo - but because of how it’s impacting African culture and identity around the world. Waves of people continue been seen on social media, on red carpets, on streets and even movie goers proudly wearing and supporting African clothing and natural hair since the movie was released. Costume designer Ruth E. Carter researched the whole continent for authentic African designs and art to create costumes that reflect a futuristic version of Africa made of diverse tribes without the influence of colonization. The movie displays costumes inspired by the Ndebele women of South Africa’s stacked neck rings, red ocher body paint and leather headpieces of Namibia’s Himba tribe, a beautiful cylindrical shaped traditional Zulu married women’s hat, Lesotho inspired blankets, and Nakia’s costume made of sheels, beads and leaves reminding us of the Suri people of Ethiopia. It’s not a new phenomemon to draw inspiration from the African continent. For many years, non African fashion brands and designers have taken inspiration from African culture. However, the success of Black Panther is making the world recognize that African beauty is something to be respected and proud of. That beauty is not just straight hair and light skin. You can have dark skin, natural afro hair, wear an African print dress and that’s very beautiful. It’s ok to accept who you truely are and where you come from rather than what the established status quo tells you what beauty is.
When it comes to the value society places on women, Black Panther truely hit the bull’s eye. For the nation of Wakanda to function at it’s best, women are needed to contribute at their full potential. The Dora Milaje for example, are an all female army of women in shaved heads and tattoos who guide the king and in doing so are shattering traditional beliefs about what women can and can not do. The king’s sister, Shuri played by Letitia Wright as a scientist who designs technologically advanced weapons and outfit. The message young women are taking from this movie is validation that they are worth it and can make the world a better place while being fully feminine and men should not be threatened by it.
Photo courtesy Instagram @Lupitanyongo
A tale of true camaraderie Words by Amina Lukanza
I am all for women’s rights
and I’m all for fashion. When I examine the roles that the two have each played in the advancement of the other’s goals, I find that I may have well and truly found my friendship goals. The desire for women's rights has inspired many a fashion trend and likewise the existence of fashion has allowed women to transcend expressions of social freedoms and influences during the course of history. 27.
If you think back to that time when somebody decided that the authority of the household should be known as ‘the one who wears the pants’, the phrase was referencing to men as women only adorned skirts and dresses back then. As women’s lives progressed and with help from avant garde fashion visionaries such as Coco Chanel, trousers gradually got introduced to women’s wardrobes. I don't claim that women starting to wear pants was the single most cause of the transition of leadership in homes but it is quite a coincidence that nowadays when you hear somebody talking of the one who wears the pants, there’s a high
likelihood that they are referencing to the woman. Talk about reclaiming time! It’s not just in the homesteads that fashion and women’s rights have influenced each other. Even when women first overcame all odds and started earning positions in the workforce they were faced with a gruelling amount of harassment and unwanted advance from their male counterparts. I find it was quite accommodating for the fashion world to introduce power suits that consisted of oversized blazers designed to hide women’s features and thus cushion the blatant gender biases they faced at work. Fashion and women’s rights have come a long way indeed. Once upon a time women were not allowed to vote and now it’s not at all uncommon to find a woman even running elections at various levels. And like a true ride or die friend,
WOMEN & FEMINISM IN TANZANIA by Shellina Ebrahim
fashion is always on hand to make statements for the cause. Who can forget how the pant suit made an impact on the campaign of United States presidential candidate Hillary Clinton? Only recently fashion and women’s rights pulled through for one another again. In a show of support to women for speaking out against abuse in Hollywood, the red carpet of the annual Golden Globes awards this year was literally ‘blacked out’. Almost all the attendees wore black as a fashion statement to support the ‘Me Too’ movement - that the women who have spoken out
“...the real heroes in gender struggles are the brave women and men throughout history who have spoken up against injustices.” 28.
against sexualharrasment and racial discrimation are not alone. Though women’s rights and fashion have been a major component in each other’s journeys, it’s important to note that the real heroes in gender struggles are the brave women and men throughout history who have spoken up against injustices. Those who have led by example and those who have been brave enough to break gender boundar-
ies which don’t benefit society anymore. Women have come a long way from traditional roles but these are only small gains. There are still cases of abuse in households, harassment in places of work, not to mention pay gaps that seem to imply that women are not as valued as their male counterparts. Clearly the struggle continues but for as long as she has a friend in fashion, A woman can celebrate her gender while challenging the world around her.
I asked a number of women of Tanzanian background from various age groups whether they define themselves as feminists and if they think feminism is a normal part of African culture before I wrote this article. Their answers both illuminated and shocked me. An 83 year old lady who came of age during the colonial era said she was arranged married to a wealthy man who already had 6 wives and 10 children. “I am not born into a wealthy family or chiefly clan which could have helped me refuse to marry him. I was never encouraged to think that I had a choice to marry him or not. The decision was made for me to ensure I had access to basic necessities for survival.” Another woman who is now 65 years old said there are some cultural practices which are unfair to women and contradict the reality of current times. “I was arranged married to a man who ended up being physically and verbally abusive to me. Whenever he would beat me, I would go back home and my mother would send me back to him saying it was normal for a man to beat his wife. Divorce is not acceptable in our village but in the city, I was able to divorce him legally. He had paid 2 cows as dowry for me and usually, women, land and livestock are properties of men. Divorce meant that my brothers would have to return the dowry cows. They were not happy about it but at least the law helped me get my freedom. I am the first woman in my family to have ever gotten a divorce.” Then I sat down with a professional woman in her 30’s. “Feminism in Africa?” She replied. For my generation, what we believe and what our parents believe can contradict each other. I have the freedom to choose when to marry, who to marry and when to have children. But my family thinks I am wasting my time with education and no man will want to marry a woman past her 30’s. Then I spoke to a twenty something year old woman who told me, “I never thought for one minute that I didn’t have the same rights as men. I can be what
I want to be regardless of what society expects me to be or do.” As a child I was made aware by my Tanzanian part of the family that I did not ‘behave like a girl.’ “You are too ambitious for a girl,” they would say to me. This means that my ways were not the same as my peers’, especially other girls. While they were interested in makeup, hair and play pretending to be ‘mom and dad’, I was more interested in building my own toys from scratch and score the highest mark in my class. One day my teacher asked all students in our class to walk in a line in order of our exam scores and I was first. Second place was a boy who ended up being moved to first place because the teacher said boys should lead the line. I openly and passionately questioned the teacher’s decision and she was definitely not impressed by by confidence to speak up. Such social expectations start from when we are young, are acceptably used on women from infant ages by men of all ages. There was an old man, a distant relative who came to visit our home when I was about 6 years old. When he greeted me, he referred to me as his ‘mchumba.’ ‘Mchumba’ means fiancee, girlfriend or lover and it is commonly used by men to refer to little girls from when they are born. Such language and cultural habits objectify women as sexual objects for men. They assume that the ultimate goal for women is to be chosen by a man, become a wife and mother. No consideration is given to what the female wants. I have never heard of a male child being referred to in the same way except that he will be a future doctor, lawyer, engineer and so forth. Going back to the old man who referred to me as his mchumba, I quickly responded to him with a very bad curse word which i had never used before but i knew it was bad and suitable for what he had just called me. He stood in front of me with bloodshot eyes looking very mad. And I stood in front of him with confidence and no regret for what i had just called him. I knew it was disrespectful to curse especially an adult, but I also felt sexualLy objectified by him and it did not feel good at all. After that incident, growing up in Tanzania many times I observed women being treated in ways that were questionable to me even at a very young age. Whether feminism is part of our African culture or not, treating women in ways which feel wrong is not just. I now realize I was definitely a feminist before I knew what feminism means.
SPACE & DESIGN Keen on letting this vibrant shade into your home or office space? Here is some inspiration when letting purple reign effectively in 2018.
If you are reading this, so are your potential customers. PURPLE WALLS One particularly effective way to introduce purple into your space is with a wall painted in a deep rich plum or lavender colour complimented with another wall and ceiling in a neutral shade. To moderate this bold shade, compliment it with accessories in forest green, grey or highlight it with splashes of purple throughout the room. White and metalic 25.
accessories, trims or walls can make space look plain. Instead, think of items in orange, purple, forest green or even gray such as rugs, pillow cases, bed cloths, flowers and patterned textures to accessorize.
like velvet for standout furniture will add a soft touch of style to your space. Introduce a love seat, chaise or ottoman in this versatile texture.
ART A purple wall can serve as a fine VELVET backdrop for art. Opting for a lux- Set this backurious upholstery ground with paint-
ings of colours that create visual interest to the viewer such as those in a different tone of purple, or a complimentary shade such as green and yellow. METALS Finish the look with warm metal accessories for a bold yet friendly space. Warm metals including brass, gold, copper and bronze bring out the royal grandeur of purple walls.
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