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EMERGINGtalent issue

£6

The

Spring/Summer 2016

Faustine Steinmetz © Lisa Rimmer

FASHION VOICES


FASHION VOICES || CONTENTS

EDITOR’S

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ashion. It means something to different to everybody. For me, I’ve always appreciated the

people who are to push the boundarys of what is normal. It’s for this reason, that I’ve enjoyed sourcing the interviews for this edition of Fashion Voices. We have a huge range of interviews from designers who are a little bit ‘out there’ to up and coming models. As well as our stylist feature with Danyul, who continues to make waves within the fashion industry. It doesn’t matter what your style preferences are, whether you like a minimal approach to your own personal style or something a little bit avant garde, this issue will have something for everyone. We give a nod huge to up and coming

FASHION SPOTLIGHT

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names and trends and have an insider look into what the indusry has to offer for this up and coming spring/summer season. For me fashion has to really be appreciated and that age old saying of “what’s good for the goose, isn’t always good for the gander’, is what make the fashion indusrty turn. It wouldn’t suit us all to be the same, would it? So I hope that for this reason, you find something within this issue of Fashion Voices that will appeal and influence your own personal style and even better, will encourage you to be a little bit braver in your style choice for this season. So put your feet up, relax and enjoy!

PAGE 3 Pg 6. DANYUL. Northern stylist Daniel Brown, talks to Fashion Voices about the rollercoaster start to his career.

Pg 8 CHELSEA MOYLAN. We chat to Chelsea about her love for YouTube and her independent San Franciscan boutique, Anomie.

Pg 12. LARKE LENSES. We take a look at one of Londons quickly emerging eyewear brands as they become a firm style essential. Pg 10. THE NEW FACE. Fashion Voices brings you an exclusive interview with Wilhelmena Model’s latest signing, Leigh McManus

Pg 12 STREET STYLE STALKER: An introduction to prolific street style photographer, Scott Schuman

Pg12. SCANDI STYLE SPOT. Fashion Voices looks at one of Scandinavia’s hottest exports in the shape of minimalist stylist, Isabella Thordsen.

THE BEAUTY EDIT

Pg 12 FASHION FOCUS: A look at one of the graphics designer scene’s hottest new designers, Phiney Pet

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT Pg 4. FAUSTINE STEINMETZ. Fashion Voices take a look at her latest collection and look at what the future has in store for the Parisian designer

Pg 14. THE EDITOR’S GUIDE. Our editor gives you an inside look at how to acheive this season’s most on trend makeup look

Pg.15 THE FINAL WORD. We look at what we predict will be clogging up your spring/ summer wardrobes this coming season.


Faustine Steinmetz at London Fashion Week ŠLisa Rimmer


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FASHION VOICES || DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT

arisian born Faustine Steinmetz may not be a new name in fashion circles but as a brand, the eclectic denim hearted collection is something that will propel her popularity outside of the tight-knit London fashion scene. Faustine’s presentation housed at the Topshop New Gen space was a dimly lit affair with spotlights on each individually hand-crafted piece. Boasting heavy texture and intimate detail, the designer’s aim to portray the intrusion of fashion houses infinite products is nicely juxtaposed by the collection’s streamlined simplicity. Studying at Atelier Chardon Savard in Paris and later completing a Masters at Central Saint Martins, the designer believes in ‘craftsmanship over trend’; something that stood at the forefront of her SS16 collection. The process is hand finished end to end, with each piece painstakingly produced on a handloom. The pieces looked unravelled and undone with a raw and unedited finish. The inspiration behind the collection lay heavily on how any individual perceives a product and how it makes you feel. With dishevelled, almost lived in hair created by Ben Talbot and heavily highlighted ‘undone’ makeup, the beauty of the collection cleverly complemented Faustine’s stripped back vision. The presentation’s moody atmosphere sat as a clever backdrop to the apparent 90’s grunge inspired influences. More excitingly, the deigner has just announced that she will be collaborating with street wear brand, Cheap Monday. The six piece unisex collection will take influence from Cheap Monday’s Swedish roots as well as incorporating Steinmetz’s eye for perfectionism, with the hope that it will appeal to Faustine’s younger audience. Talking about the influences of the collection, Steinmetz, said: “The singer of a band called Mayhem used to bury his clothes in the ground, to make them rot, before wearing them.” This idea of the dirtied and destroyed is played out in the denim, much of which is hand-felted to emulate the effect of mould. Despite these dark references, Steinmetz was keen that the clothes still looked, in her words, “fairly chic”. Part of this was achieved by the finishings, such as the labels and shiny silver buttons. “We wanted to have this really trashy finish but keep the labelling clean,” Faustine Steinmetz is becoming a well known name of the London fashion scene and as fashion blogger, Suzie Bubble gushed about her collection, her stardom on the style scene has propelled. One thing fashion circles have been whispering about is whether or not Steinmetz will create a menswear collection. Faustine is keen to address that to her, fashion is genderless and why she likes to create collections that appeal to both sexes. Shes says: “I quite like having genderless fashion, I buy menswear all the time – it doesn’t make a difference to me. This is the ethos I want to push for my brand. Fashion shouldn’t be restricted. It should be about having fun.”

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the DESIGNER FAUSTINE STEINMETZ

LEFT: Recylcled denim formed midi skirts, jeans and jackets in a distressed feel. ©Lisa Rimmer

RIGHT: Freyed recycled wools added a unique texture to the collection. ©Lisa Rimmer

LEFT: Texture play overlaying acrylic paint onto denim at her LFW collection ©Lisa Rimmer

RIGHT: Sports luxe complemented the texture heavy collection © Lisa RImmer


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FASHION VOICES || THE ‘GO GETTER’

So Why Anomie? Seems a rather far fetched names for a fashion retailer, right? Well, not now that you understand Chelsea’s background. The name is derived from Durkheim’s of the division of labour and organic solidarity and this is the reason why Chelsea loves to support the small independant, emerging designers and artists. Chelsea explained: “There is a feeling we get each time we wear an item of clothing, jewelry piece, or accessory that has been built by the creativity, energy, and talent of another individual that we find very powerful and fulfilling. Combine that with the rewarding knowledge that you are directly supporting an individual to follow and be sustained by their creative passion and that is why we love to “shop small.” Take a stroll down your local high street and the chances of stumbling across brands such as in-

San

FASHcisco, honey!

Lisa Rimmer chats to Anomie’s Chelsea Moylan on the shop’s success ANOMIE owner, Chelsea

©Chelsea Moylan

YouTube is THE platform for self expression and thanks to the digital age, the platform for self promotion. Chelsea Moylan’s channel ‘Chelsea Wears’ boasts 600,000 worldwide subscribers and she’s used this to springboard her online ‘indie’ shoppping site ‘ANOMIE’s successes. We chatted to Chelsea to find out all about how YouTube helped her land her dream San Franciscan store and what she envisions for her future.

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he YouTube phenomenon has helped many a rookie progress through the ranks and hit the professional realms in nosebleed speed. From hobbies such as beauty and fashion, once a past-time reserved for the comfort of homes, ‘gurus’ are not becoming brand ambassadors for big names; which is quite a leap. This isn’t the case for San Francisco’s style eye, Chelsea Moylan. YouTube has been a hobby for her in second position, pipped to the post by her love for sourcing ethical fashion brands and all natural skincare alternatives suitable for her ‘hipster’ customer base. She admits that YouTube has never been seen as a career for her. Although her channel ‘Chelsea Wears’ boasts almost 47,000 followers, she has no intention of making YouTube her career. Her number one passion is for her online unique boutique ‘Anomie’ her pop up version of the store in the very trend led Union Street. What’s even more interesting is Chelsea’s background. Her past time shows a love for all things makeup and style however, she tells us, this isn’t

what used to get her up in her college years. She told us: “You know it’s funny. Anomie is a dream come true for me but it isn’t what I dreamed of as a child. I was always weirdly interested in homocides and shows that solved the crimes. That’s why I studied Criminology and it surprises some people that I even hold a masters in it. I’m the kinda girl who has no patience and I wanted to be detective of homicide yesterday so even though I love all things crime, my life is completely worlds apart from how I imagined it in college but I wouldn’t change it for anything.” When shes not photographing each individual item of new stock for the shop, or updating the website, Chelsea is plane hopping to NYC, to trade shows to buy stock for the store and meet new designers. She’s a one woman show when it comes to the business end of Anomie. You’ve got to take your hat off to her, she knows how to work hard. She told Fashion Voices: “I love going to Market Week . I get to see what’s new from the designers I stock and also meet new potentail designers who I can stock in the store. Plus, it gives me an excuse to shop for my self a little! A girls gotta have a little bit of me time!”

“Buying ethically sourced fashion from an independant retailer should be way cooler than it is. My customers love that they’re getting something that has a story behind it rather than a mass produced item that has no meaning or journey.” dependant shoe designer, Emerson Fry, ethically sourced skincare brand, Herbivore and quirky pottery company, Group Partner who create tongue in cheek pottery wares are pretty slim. But its this style of shopping that Chelsea is keen to promote. She says: ‘Buying ethically sourced fashion from an independant retailer should be way cooler than it is. My customers love that they’re getting something that has a story behind it rather than a mass produced item that has no meaning or journey. There’s something sad about the dying nature of small independant business here in the US. Everything is mass produced. We should just calm the hell down and start supporting the small time people in their ventures.” So, how does the future look for Chelsea? Well ,for the moment, she’s happy with how life is, running Anomie’s online platform as well as it’s pop up sister in downtown San Fransisco. Her boyfriend, Ryan a writer and their Boston terrier, Dexter all happily live in San Fransisco and she can’t envision that changing anytime soon. She says: “You know what? I love it here in San Fransisco. I’m happy with the way things are going. YouTube will remain a hobby for me and I’ll keep annoying Ryan in my vlogs but Anomie has my full attention now. Will I go back to Criminology? I’d never say never, I’m too obsessed with it. But who says you can’t do it all? By all, you I mean coming home from work to watch re runs of crime solving shows; I’m literally obsessed!”


Chelsea in Anomie’s Union Street pop up store. ©Yve Fontilea


Shoot for Hunger Magazine styled by Danyul

ŠJohn Cubillan


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DAN BROWN ©DANYUL

FASHION FOCUS|| DANIEL BROWN

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ith a strong work ethic and obvious eye for style, it’s clear that menswear stylist Dan Brown is destined for big things. When he’s not styling music industry big names such as Brit award winner, Jack Garrett and Conor Maynard, he’s penning his views on the fashion industry at coveted fashion magazine, Client as their contributing editor. With a busy schedule as well as running his own brand ‘Danyul’, the 23 year old told us that it’s having a solid work ethic and being brave that has placed him into the position he’s into today. Talking of how a young lad from Runcorn had landed a dream position as a celebrity stylist in London, he remained unphased, telling Fashion Voices: “To be honest, it doesn’t phase me, it’s my job. You get used to it. I’ve only ever been star struck once and it was when I was with Justin Bieber at the Brits - he’s my guilty pleasure.” Although he has always had a keen interest in the worlds of fashion and style, becoming a stylist wasn’t his primary aim. Dan attended Middlesex University where he graduated with a degree in Fashion Communications. It wasn’t until he completed an internship in the print department at Alexander McQueen that he realized that his passion lay in styling. Then the real hustle began and Dan found that if you wanted to make it in that industry, it pays

Dan Brown talks to LISA RIMMER about the whirlwind start to his career as a celebrity stylist. We chat about life in London, who he would love to style, his strong work ethic, his favourite shoots and his aspirations for the future. to work hard and build on your contacts list. Speaking to Fashion Voices, Dan said: “The saying ‘Who you know, not what you know’ is key to any successful stylist. Internships are extremely important and networking is inevitable. It all came from putting yourself out there and working the long, exhausting hours, which pay off eventually.” What’s refreshing, is seeing someone so young with so much drive acheiving what he wants out of life. Too often, it takes years and years of hard hustle to just touch base on a role within the fashion industry. It’s this work hard mindset that will hopefully land Dan his dream of moving to LA to become a State-side stylist. He told Fashion Voices: “ I change my mind all the

time. I’m going to head over to LA for a couple years soon - it’s the base for celebrity styling so I’ve always said I’ll give it a go and see what the fuss is about.” Even after all of the celebrity names he can boast about working with, Dan’s feet remain firmly on the ground. When we asked him to describe his own personal style, he told Fashion Voices: “I don’t think I’ve got a personal style. I throw on the first thing I see of a morning, often it’s on the floor! I’m too busy to care what I look like!” It’s this cheeky charismatic approach to life is why Dan is so popular. You only have to take a look at his Instagram to see him rubbing shoulders with the likes of Brooklyn Beckham, James Bay and many other popular faces. But, for all of these names there is one person who Dan is keen to get his hands on and style. He said that Beiber would be his ultimate client. Dan talks fondly of his career to date but when asked what his proudest moment to date this year, he said: “Dressing Jack Garratt for the Brit Awards 2016. I was very happy with the overall look. Jack won the Brits Critics’ Choice award that night and wore a really amazing double-breasted suit from London based menswear designers, Casely-Hayford.” With so much on his plate, its a wonder Dan gets a moment to himself. The Northern stylist joked that the pace of London was a shock to the system in comparison to his Runcorn hometown. Dan laughed: “It’s been crazy. London is like a treadmill without a stop button. I moan when I’m bored and when I’m busy I wish I wasn’t! It’s always nice to go home and switch off for a few days.”


Leigh McManus ŠWilhelmena London


the new

FACE

They say that it’s the LUCK of the IRISH that favours some. However for LEIGH MCMANUS, his chislled looks and high fashion APPEAL have landed him the HOTTEST gig this side of the Atlantic. Lisa Rimmer talks EXCLUSIVELY to Leigh about how he was SPOTTED, what his FUTURE plans are and ulimatley what his MUM thinks about having a MODEL son.

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or most, the end of university life means stepping into the job race and wondering if the last three years have all been for nothing. However, for Leigh McManus, a chance trip to a London art gallery changed the way his future looked after he was scouted by top model agency, Wilhelmena. Leigh told Fashion Voices, exclusively: “I was in London visiting my girlfriend and decided to go to a gallery. A guy stopped me and I thought he was going to ask me for directions but instead, he told me I had a good jaw line and a nice height. He gave me a card and told me to go down to the agency whenever I was free.” The Liverpool John Moores University student, who is due to finish his course in International Journalism decided to take the scout up on the offer when he returned London for an internship at Four Four Two, a football magazine. Leigh said: “I went down to the office and I was asked to take my top off . The next thing you know, they’re taking photos of me doing different poses. When they told me they wanted to sign me, I threw out a few expletives and signed the contract.” It’s been a whirlwind few months for the Irish 21 year old. Juggling his final assignments before he graduates this Summer, Leigh has already shot for famous fashion names including Topman and more recently, for fashion magazine, Wonderland. He told us: “I’ve met Burberry and I’ve had to turn down a shoot with Louis Vuitton because of uni. It’s all been pretty hectic. My agent has recently told me that Gucci want me for Milan Fashion Week, which is nuts!” Whatever big names are now hot on his heels, Leigh remains as humble as ever. Asking him about what he thinks the next few months have

in store, he is keen to just take things in his stride. He said: “My personality in anything is pretty laid back, so I’m just taking it as it comes. I’m just going to stay in it as long as it’s fruitful.” What’s heartwarming about Leigh’s story is that he could never have expected it for himself. He told us: “Where I grew up it’s completely unheard of for anything positive to happen. I’m from a council estate so even getting to uni was a big thing. No matter what happens though, I do think it’s important to be myself.” This isn’t the first time that Leigh has been approached, though. Back in 2013, he was scourted at Benicassim music festival but he was too slow on the uptake and the oppourtunity passed him by. Now he is ready and more mature to see what the modelling world has to offer him. Talking about aspirations and brands that he would love to work for, Leigh said: “I always looked at the boys in Topman campaigns and realised I had a similar look to them so I think I would love to do more work with them. The fact that Burberry has cropped up so early on in my career is exciting because I’m looking at is an indication that I might be in this for the long haul.” Modelling isn’t Leigh’s ultimate career aspiration, though. His passion lies in sports journalism and this is where he would love to see his career path out. For the immediate future though, Leigh is keen to see what the world of modelling has in store for him. Asking him about what his mum thought about her son being scouted as a model, he jokinly told us: “It was nuts because she didn’t believe me at first. My mum was over the moon when I got into universtity so she was bursting when I told her about Wilhelmena. I don’t think she can get her head around it, she just tells me all the time how proud she is of me.”


FASHION VOICES || News

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FASHION spotlight

FASHION focus: Phiney Pet

LARKE lenses

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t seems that the latest trend in the fashion realms is to ‘out-trend’ other fashionistas in the lenses game. Step in British brand, Larke, who are changing the lens wearing as we know it. With an ‘outside the box’ attitude to design, the artisan approach to aesthetic is driving creative director Laura Nocholson’s imagery for the brand. Laura told Fashion Voices: “The idea behind the brand is to take something ‘everyday’ and make it more appealing. All of our frames are handmade in London using clean lines with a very minimal feel with excellent craftsmanship. Every pair is special to us and we take great pride in the final product.” Recently shortlisted for the coveted Timeout Magazine’s Hall of Frames Newcomer Award, the brand are about to collaborate with lense wear designer Stine Goya and more exclusively, have designed shades for no other than Sir Elton John.

SCANDI Style Spot

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W Phiney Pet SS16 Collection ©L.W

iding high on the nostalgia of early 1990s, Ravensbourne College of Design graduate Josephine Pettman revels in these acid influences, and cut’n’paste culture – feeding it out the other side with fabulously unpretentious, astutely observed style pieces. On the surface, Pettman (who goes under the moniker of Phiney Pet) produces garments that will warm the hearts of those who remember the days of bubble coats and anything that reqired blowing up. Leaning on the aesthetic of unfiened cool, she’s making retro vibes relatable again. Snapped up by Topshop to lend her retro wonder to their print department, Phiney Pet is an up-and-coming fashion figure worth taking note of – chance’s are you’ll be sporting one of her improbably vivid print designs before long. Rest assured , she’s a rising talent with fun on her agenda. Her brand doesn’t take itself too seriously, so look out for comical prints that will pave the way for your new quirky wardrobe.

Isabella ©Isabella Thordsen

Women In New York ©The Satorialist

Man In Milan ©The Satorialist

hose in the fashion know have speculated season upon season when the street style phenomenon will fizzle out and disappear. There are photographers who are making it their bread and butter so surely there is no near sight of it ending, right? Certainly not for coveted street style photograper, Scott Schuman of The Satorialist fame. His work is now labelled as art and many a regular fashion week face has dreamed of their wears being snapped candidly by him. You don’t have to be attending the global fashion seasons hosted by the likes of Milan, Paris and New York, though. Schuman is credited for his artistic eye in capturing anything beatiful and that doesn’t restrict him to fashion. In 2004, The Satorialist shot an image of an aging gentleman who was a spectator at the Boston Marathon. This cataputled his success and attracted attention to his fashion works from power fashion names such as Refinery 29 and Vogue.com. So to readdress that reoccuring question: Has street style photography had it’s day? Not if you’re The Satorialist. There will be no doubt fashion forward people will be peering over the lenses of their sunglasses of the season to sneak a peek at whether or not Shuman’s lens is pointing in their direction., that’s for sure.

Women In Paris ©The Satorialist

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STALKER

Larke at London Fashion Week ©Lisa Rimmer

street style

ith a keen eye for the clean lines and simplicity of Scandinavian style, stylist Isabella Thordson is one to look out for. Fans flock to her social media to see how she styles style classics such as Adidas Stan Smiths and classics such as the plain white tee. Some say no one has style like the Scandinavians and Swedish born Isabella has brought her style eye to London and has been snapped up by ASOS as one of their Style Insiders. Join 12.000 others and follow her Instagram for inspiration on how to transition your look to Scandi with minimal effort. @asos_isabella


FASHION VOICES || BEAUTY

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SKIN CARE SAVIOURS: In this issue we explore the BEST in skin care starting with the cult face masks that are making the rounds as favourites to those in the know. Fashion Voices talks to beauty blogger Daisy Beaumont, the face behind her online alias ‘Daisy Says’ to get the scoop on her favourite skin treat. We also see what makeup tips our editor is sharing to create this season’s must have makeup look.

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FASHION VOICES || BEAUTY

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BEST IN beauty

BEAUTY blogger

Daisy

BEAUMONT:

The Fashion Face © Lisa Rimmer

‘Daisy SAYS’

EDITOR’S GUIDE: the fashion face lotte Tilbury applying Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream to some of this seasons hottest Fashion Week shows. Grab your gloss and get on trend. Flawless skin with a hint of radiance is in.

THE EDIT: Brushes The Brush Edit © Lisa Rimmer

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ith a little less natural and more the work of a clever makeup artist, this visual from the Spring edition of Porter magazine oozes chic and screams this season. I’m all over that. You know what I love? A look that knows how to push the boundaries of beauty. To some, this look may appear to be minimal but that’s the beauty of it. I find that a natural makeup is more difficult to master than a heavier statement look. What’s even better, is that this look uses a hybrid of skin finishes. It’s a matte complexion with a ‘lit from within’ glow in all of the right places. A healthy complexion that waves goodbye to the full face dewiness of previous seasons and says hello to the ‘accent’ matte. So to begin with, you need a base that’s going to give a flawless coverage without offering a satin finish. Sans satin, that’s what we’ll call it. Illamasqua Skin Base was the first foundation that sprung to mind when I saw this and a foundation that I’ve been crushing on massively of late. To continue in the fashion of flawlessness, remove any under eye darkness with the Bobbi Brown corrector in a peach shade. Any blue tones will be neutralised and you will be left with a perfectly prepped blank canvas. The final jigsaw piece comes from some precision highlighting. Clever applications of a healthy glow in all of the right areas will have the skin looking youthful and flawless. YSL Touche Eclat is a highlighting beauty lover’s staple and by applying along the eye socket, it will illuminate the whole of the face with an internal radiance. Finish it all off by applying Clarins Beauty Flash Balm along the high points of the cheeks. This will bring the whole look together and make it epitomise this season. Glossy everything has been a massive seasonal trend, with Char-

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sk any makeup artist which eye brush they couldn’t live without and chances are there will be an honourable mention to the MAC 217. For good reason, it’s ramped up an impressive reputation for blending and it’s one that I have numerous of in my kit. It applies colour precisely into the crease and makes any skill level of application look flawless. In tandem, and for different reasons the MAC 239 brush is a shorter haired and denser brush which packs on colour and pigment and although, try as I might, I’ve yet to find a brush that even makes it off the finish line in comparison. The MAC 242 is a brush that I can’t be without. If you want as much colour payoff from an eyeshadow as possible without patches then this little fella should go home with you on your next counter visit. For the face, it’s duo-fibre all the way for me. The mix of natural and synthetic bristles means for a lighter coverage and a seamless finish. Used together the MAC 188 is great for all over foundation application.

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n bad skin days, I’d always grabbed the nearest tube of the infamous Aesop Poppy Seed Cleansing mask when my skin decided to throw a hissy fit. But after squeezing the remnants of my last tube out until I had to admit defeat, there I was, left with an Aesop shaped hole in my life that needed to be replaced a-sap. My skin has fallen out with me. I’ve admitted in the past that I’m a honorary member of the skincare floosy squad and if there is a new release of skin care, I’m all over it. The result of this? A spot zone and an extreme case of red face. The one thing that I am dedicated to however, is Aesop’s cleansing masks and the one I hadn’t tried before has pipped the Poppy Seed offering to the post to claim dibs on the number one spot for clearing up problem skin. You interested yet? On a recent trip to Liberty in London with my upset complexion in tow, I asked the guy at the counter what he’d suggest to clear my congested, now blemish prone and downright unruly skin. Without hesitation he prompted me to this, and boy, if my skin could now kiss him, it would. You know those awkward spots under the surface of the skin that never actually amount to anything but hurt like nothing else? Yeah this chamomile cracker fixes that. I thought I’d be a Nude purifying or Aesop Poppy Seed mask gal till the day I die, but this seriously has me questioning my allegiance. The scent is fresh (like lemonade with chamomile – that fresh) and leaves skin calmed, refreshed, unclogged and seriously smooth. Spots – BE GONE. If ever there was an award for the best mask at removing blackheads and those annoying under the surface spots whilst smelling all the while amazing – this would nab it hands down. I apply mine with a MAC 190 brush (but any synthetic foundation brush with cut it) over the areas that need attention, post cleanse and if I could get away with it without crazy looks, I’d have everyone stroking my face.


NEXT TIME Autumn/Winter

The SHOWROOMS

FASHION VOICES


Fashion voices  

Quarterly fashion magazine. Bringing you the latest news on those making waves in the fashion industry.

Fashion voices  

Quarterly fashion magazine. Bringing you the latest news on those making waves in the fashion industry.

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