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O BLIQUE

We talk art,culture and fashion. What makes yOu individual?...

FASHION,CULTURE,ART....

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Obsession


CON TE NTS 1.

Chanel Karl goes to Art School

Chanel

3. Interview with the man himself and exploring the ideas behind chanels newest spring/summer 2014 collection

Thomas Sceibitz

5. “One Time Pad� the newest work exhibition by one of Germanys favourite Artists.

Katarzyna Konieczka

Eye-Deal

The ugly duckling within the fashion industry

7.

17.

Discussing the ideas of what makes equality with the fashion industry


Chanel CHANEL SS14 #PFW

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“People who were lucky enough to have been invited to the show studied the art works after the event. Although this collection was highly influenced by art, he still remained faithful to his roots by keeping the tweed and court shoes in check.”

Goes to art school.


Karl Lagerfeld Katie Black Reporting for Oblique Magazine Chanel, Probably the most talked about name at this seasons fashion week in Paris. Chanel used the vast space at the Grand Palais, to their advantage to showcase their Spring/Summer 2014 collection. The theme for this seasons show showed a strong element of art, the Palais was transformed into a giant art gallery with sculptures and installations placed ever so carefully all around the gallery. All of the installations were created especially by Chanel for the show. Installations included a giant Chanel No5 robot and a giant Chanel logo. Artists that influenced Chanel for the show were those such as Kandinsky and Jackson Pollock. The huge installations were very vast and eye catching, the bright colours and use of materials also made them very easy on the eye. If only we could take them home!

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“The Lego clutch and hula hoop bag were the most talked about accessories of last season, this time we’re looking at the backpack, modelled by Cara D. She has been wearing them since last year, so she was a perfect canvas to place it on”

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“ONE-Time Pad” 26 JULY 2013 - 3 NOVEMBER 2013 Thomas Scheibitz is one of the leading German artists of his generation. This large scale presentation of Scheibitz’s work retraces the conceptual and painterly development of his career with a particular focus on the human figure and the existence of form between figuration and abstraction. The exhibition brings together over two hundred works from the past five years including painting, sculpture, drawing and works on paper. It also includes an archive of the artist’s source material and , and a new sculptural work.

Scheibitz?

Who is Thomas

Thomas Scheibitz

he explores the boundary between figuration and abstraction, playing, Dresden Art Academy. He started painting and producing sculpture in 1990 and quickly gained international recognition.

The son of an East German stonemason, Thomas Scheibitz was born in Radeberg, Germany in 1968. A student of Professor Ralf Kerbach, he studied alongside Frank Nitsche and Eberhard Havekost at the

“his sculptures resemble architectural models or fragments of logos; his paintings are vaguely figurative”. Dresden Art Academy. He started painting and producing sculpture in 1990 and quickly gained international recognition. By use of both mediums,

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Through the use of both mediums, he explores the boundary between figuration and abstraction, exploring different types of still life.

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Katarzyna

Konieczka The Ugly Duckling In The World Of Fashion

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Katarzyna Konieczka is costume maker and Avant Garde fashion designer. Her creations are mainly to be viewed on a stage or a catwalk. The main aim of her designs is to create an impact on the viewer and evoke feelings. The costumes are not for everyday use. Each costume has been created as a one off, the techniques used to create

dying them, she never uses fabrics straight from the shop. The main motifs in her designs are asymmetry, destruction, dramatism, macabre. On paper, Katarzyna Konieczka is a costume and fashion designer; in practice she seems more eager to define herself as a kind of experimenter. Fascinated by deformation, willing to induce

On paper, Katarzyna Konieczka is a costume and fashion designer; in practice she seems more eager to define herself as a kind of experimenter. Fascinated by deformation, willing to induce emotions. them have been developed by Konieczka herself, by experimenting with textiles, fabric and paint. Each costume requires special care and each is cleaned separately from everything else according to the label. In most cases she re-uses the purchased fabric by processing or

emotions, she keeps on experimenting in the field of fashion, the result of which are mind-boggling, rather uncomfortable to wear and rather hard to forget creations.
Even, the queen of originality, Lady Gaga, could not resist the temptation to once steal Konieczka’s sense of style…

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You once mentioned Joseph Merrick, the famous Elephant Man, as a source of inspiration for your collection. You also said: “I associate deformation with inner beauty”; can you elaborate on that? “Ugliness can often be heart-rending, and deformation is something rare; therefore it can be interesting. Fashion can be bland and boring; I am a part of the generation that needs adrenaline, as we were growing up without any taboos. We don’t belong to puritan reality; our emotional boundaries have been altered. My generation is something like “bored children of war”. We are bored, we feel secure and we are thrill seeking. And I like to induce emotions; how do I do it? I just drape, dye and sew fabric to make it look like a scar. Lace patterns seem to look like bugs slithering on a carcass, and the very dress resembles flayed flesh; but at the same time this outfit makes you think about Baroque, it is femme fatale and classic. You are a bit scared, but you like it as well. It is a skillful manipulation. It is like subliminal message; it makes you subconsciously admit that being scarred excites you; or that, what should disgust you, delights you.”

Marina Abramovic- now loved and admired by everyone including the world of pop, show business and fashion, stressed in many of her interviews that for a long time her art was treated with incomprehension and rejection. Have you ever experienced rejection and incomprehension of your projects and ideas? “Of course, incomprehension is my daily bread. Don’t worry about it, and don’t complaint. There are other things that matter…. But thank you for mentioning Marina Abramovic. To be honest, I haven’t heard about her before. Now having just thought about what my sister said to me when, at the age of 14, I hand made my own shoes. In glue fumes I had been experimenting with different fabrics and pieces of rubber for a month; and finally when having accomplished my mission, I left my room in a really euphoric state, I heard: “You moron, you don’t make shoes, you buy them!” And then for a short while I ended up thinking that I made a fool of myself, because for the whole month it hadn’t occurred to me that making my own shoes was a bad idea.” read about Abramovic, I think that you need to be a bit crazy to keep on doing your own thing regardless of what people think. You need to really believe in what you do, and you need to be a bit of a sadist and masochist at the same time.
Ive

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Did you see your costumes in the fashion world when you started? Have you ever considered any other place for them? “In the beginning I was focusing on photos. I love let’s talk about Lady Gagaa weird connection with you… beautiful photos, and till now To make a long story short; Gaga’s assistant borrowed they are a crucial part of your costumes, they were sent back to you, and then in the video clip You and I, Gaga ends up wearing something my projects. They tell that looks like a stories from the past slightly modified copy or the future. I give my of your own work. fabrics an aged look; -The end also I often bleach “They ordered my them – I sort of freeze costumes, I sent them them in a way, and and they were in New this can trigger your York were You and I imagination.
So in the clip was made. I think beginning there were that they didn’t use photos and maybe my costumes, because film as well… I entered they realised she the fashion world a wouldn’t be able to bit later…, I showed my sing in them. So, they’ve costumes at Fashion ended up making Week Poland as a more comfortable part of Emerging version. The costume Designers competition. they have created Even though I did not looks a bit different win it, I was featured than the original on Vogue UK web version, but it still looks very much alike.
I didn’t want to take legal action against them, even though I had offers from lawyers who were eager to help me. Like I said, the original version was a bit modified” “I don’t look like a fashion designer…” It was costume, not fashion design that was your major. At the same time you are described by all fashion gurus, including Vogue, as a fashion designer…;but do you like being defined as a fashion designer? I “I don’t necessary like this title. It definitely helps people to understand what I do…, but in the end, I’m like the ugly duckling in the world of fashion; I just don’t fit. I think that what I’m doing is more like a fashion experiment. In general, most of my ideas need time to be understood.”

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Designer katie Black shows her own spin on the work of Katarzyna Konieczka.

Designer katie Black shows her own spin on the work of Katarzyna Konieczka.

how katya leads into shoot with andrew


D iversity Eye-Deal

“Between your height and weight are you perfect? Floors can be overlooked but feelings can be damaged. Is it about trying to hide yourself behind closed doors and sheltering away from something that has changed your life forever?�

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“Without individuality or identity we have nothing that makes us special and stand out from the crowd” What is the idea of diversity? Is it about standing out from the crowd as you are what society class as different? Or is it about how fashion hides all flawes of models and sticks to a certain idea of what a “model” is? Sexuality,.. the idea od sexuality is more talked about in the world of fashion, this is due to the fact it has a lot more media coverage and can be viewed as a very debatable topic. What makes anyone different to the person next to him or her, is there such a thing as scrutinizing people against the choices that they not necessarily learnt, but the choices they were born with. I believe everyone is born with a pre disposition for his or her sexuality. Everyone in my eyes is equal ad shouldn’t be judged.

The inspiration behind the concept of the photo-shoot is purely based on one of my very close friends. At the age of 15 my friend Andrew, revealed his sexuality to his peer group, and due to the stresses and tormenting he received throughout his school life meant he was teased daily for this. At the age of 17, one morning Andrew woke up with bells palsy, which is an illness triggered by a stroke which affects

“Human sexuality plays a major role in everyone’s life. It is a way in which we experience and express ourselves as sexual being and it has a major influence on individuals.” These images express sexuality, as a heterosexual female I haven’t experienced the emotions and day-to-day life of someone that has to hide their sexuality away from the public eye, due to scrutiny, sheer embarrassment or the impact it may have on family life. There is so much prejudice towards homosexuals out there in the world and I feel this is a topic that shouldn’t be overlooked, everyone is human and entitled to their own life. People of a homosexual nature shouldn’t feel the need to hide behind closed doors and would be accepted for the person that they are on the inside. Not only will this factor be contributing to the theme of my photo-shoot but I shall also be portraying, within my images, how the stress of hiding your sexuality from the public eye has lead to illness.

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palsy, which is an illness triggered by a stroke which affects one side of your face causing it to droop and have no movement. Andrew battled this illness for months and now, at the age of 22 is a picture of health. Although Andrew looks like his normal self again, you can tell slightly what happened to the right hand side of his face.

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EYE-DEAL

Catwalk models are now reaching their thinnest size, size zero to be precise! The idea of being all skin and bone on the catwalk is very much criticized. Even though people can see how size zero can be desired, as apparently it makes garments flow better when being paraded down the catwalk, I don’t understand how perfectly adequate men and women are being turned away from the modeling industry as they “don’t look right”.

“The idea of what makes a perfect model is very criticized, the idea of having a perfect skinny frame is drummed into us. Over the years this idea has altered slightly… for the worse!Catwalk models are now reaching their thinnest size, size zero to be precise!” Relating diversity,

this

to

the idea of fitting into what society classes as “normal” cannot be normal. Just because you’ve suffered from an illness that has affected your confidence does not mean you are not beautiful inside and out. Society should not judge you due to past experiences but should judge you for the person that you are today. You should lead a positive influence towards younger generations and the generations to come.”

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Dont hide behind a mask....

Let the mask hide behind you!

Oblique Magazine  

Katie Black University of Sunderland, Magazine project, FSD 301 "Oblique" magazine. Alternate cover.

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