Londonâ€™s luxury guide to fashion for men & women
Summer 2016 and London Collections: Men
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Letter Just after the renowned and highly successful British event for menswear hits London, we bring you our summer 2016 and London Collections: Men (LC:M) issue. It is an honour to be able to present to London editorial about such an iconic event, which clearly demonstrates how our city (arguably the most influential fashion city in the world) continues to be in the front line for now both women’s and men’s wear. When I created and founded Fashion London magazine, part of my thought pattern towards establishing such a magazine was to ensure a focus on both men and women’s fashion. My thinking behind this was acknowledgment of how equally important the dynamic menswear market should be. I believe in former years there was not enough emphasis placed on this market, so it is now fantastic to see how it has risen in status, and more importantly to witness London as a key driver. Our feature on page 34 looks at the success behind the event, and our regular feature “Fashion in the Economy’’ explains the effect the event has had on
menswear sales. In celebration of men and fashion we interview an increasingly style influential Darren Kennedy. In addition to the emphasis on LC:M we of course look at summer 2016 fashion available to men and women. For our regular Sustainable Fashion feature we spot a swimwear brand which creates futuristic style swimwear made from recycled fishing nets! Both our “Trend of the Moment’’ and “Fashion Favourites’’ features are full of ideas for your summer wardrobes. So enjoy your free luxury London fashion read, and enjoy the summer. www.fashionlondon.co
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unique for issue 15 13 THE MAN WITH A PLAN 18 A chic & mellow summer 30 KENDALL JENNER: FASHION QUEEN VICTORIOUS 34 The Secrets to the Success of London Collections: Men 52 Fashion London chats to… Darren Kennedy
Regular Features 10 CATWALK INDULGENCE: Menswear Exclusive First Look at the Final Lcm 26 TREND OF THE MOMENT: Tiers of Joy. House on the Prairie 38 FASHION FAVOURITES: High Tide 40 FASHION AND ECONOMY: Move over Fashion London
ladies…menswear has made it! 44 FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY: Menswear styling gets a financial boost
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48 URBAN FASHION: Backstage Pass 56 FASHION AND CHARITY: Say no to child slave labour in fashion 62 STYLE IN MOTION: Travel in style
Cover Image – Kendall Jenner Graphic Designer – Nicholas Birkett www.smart-page.co.uk Contributors – Abi Adeosun, Mark Cullum, Kerry Law, Karen Anne-Overton, Christopher Ritchie, Paz Stammler
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MENSWEAR EXCLUSIVE FIRST LOOK AT THE FINAL LCM
Don’t let the title worry you. The men’s fashion showcase London Collections: Men (LC:M) will return again next season but under its new title: London Fashion Week Men’s. Dylan Jones, the fashion body’s chairman, made the announcement earlier in June at the opening of the ss17 menswear shows. True, we’ve barely started this year’s summer before jumping on to next season’s collections but you can thank us later
Belstaff SS17 Photo by Mark Rabadan -® for Fudge
when you find yourself well ahead of the game. Things have been shaken up a little this season with the absence of key players like Moschino, Alexander McQueen and then Burberry who decided to combine its men’s and women’s showcase from September. Though as we’ve always declared, London’s emerging talent is the real draw and still remains a big selling point. Here’s what we discovered…
Turnbull & Asser SS17
The first of our favourites, and one of 57 showcasing this season, is Thom Sweeney for its genteel mix of British panache and Italian sensibility. The ss17 collection presented luxurious eveningwear that featured cream double-breasted tuxedo jackets and light cotton trousers for a vintage summer nod. This was a true gentleman’s presentation that introduced deluxe field jackets in brown and grey suede along with lightweight rain macs constructed from storm-proof Loro Piana fabric. Founded by Savile
Thom Sweeney SS17
Tiger of Sweden SS17
Tiger of Sweden SS17
Row apprentices Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney in 2007, the pair make it their business to deliver British tailoring to the world. Monte Carlo in the 70s was the backdrop and premise behind the Turnbull & Asser ss17 collection, which drew inspiration from the antics and heroism of the era’s Grand Prix victors. The clothing took us back in time with tailoring that had a vibrancy and sense of fun about it. It was a collection of exotic blues that reflected the sparkling
Tiger of Sweden SS17
FashionLondon style harbour waters; constructed from Diamond Standard cloth in blurred checks to evoke a sense of velocity from the Grand Prix it honours. You really could imagine the sound of burning rubber whilst smelling thick cigar smoke and the fresh sea air. Amongst the usual medley of typical Oliver Spencer wares – the pared down, functional look that often appears too cool for school – we sought out some fine prints and bold ensembles that really tickled our fancy. Inspired by the designer’s favourite house, positioned atop the cliffs along the Capri coastline, the ss 17 collection purveyed an air of 50s Mediterranean style. The prints mirrored rich architectural elements and environmental colours kept the palette very much in tune with Spencer’s aesthetic. We particularly liked the gingham-style cloth featured in a bold full look. Tiger of Sweden presented a unique ‘tapestry of influences’ threaded by the opulence of Baroque, the fluidity of Rococo and a Scandinavian minimalism. In other words we were presented with vibrant kaleidoscopic prints on box-fit tees, contemporary suits, casual jackets and tunics. These patterns featured heavily throughout, paired with subdued separates in natural tones, among wide-fit trousers and a touch of retro sportswear. The clothes told a story of style through the recent centuries and as they came down the runway we knew we were experiencing something totally fresh in the world of menswear - all set against a minimalist palatial backdrop. The MAN showcase turned a multiplex of things on its head for its LC:M runway show. Gender, era, masculinity, tailoring – nothing was safe from the collection of Charles Jeffrey. The Central St Martins graduate’s LOVERBOY collection, marking his second show for the Topman-established showcase, pushed the boundaries of style while contrasting this with his love for traditional merino wool. Partnering with both The Woolmark Company and Swarovski, even his collaborations signified a
Oliver Spencer SS17
Oliver Spencer SS17
divergent ethos as we witnessed this wonderfully chaotic extreme. At the Topman Design show we entered the world of the Great British seaside, decorated all over with nautical embellishments. Ice-cream colours (and ice creams), kitsch prints and sailor stripes held the theme together whilst sweaters paraded the words ‘Margate’ as if from some quirky fashion postcard. The models appeared sun-blushed and freshly showered as if
straight from the sea, while slim tailoring gave a subtle nod to the Brighton Mods. The collection might not be in stores till next year but it’s already got us in the mood for 99 Flakes behind multi-coloured windbreakers. And last but not least, we complete our grandiose roundup of the last LC:M-branded showcase with a label steeped in British heritage. Belstaff is famed for its influence and eminence in the world of motorcycling and
Oliver Spencer SS17
this season it found inspiration from Bruce Brown’s seminal 1971 film, On Any Sunday, to ride ahead with the ss 17 collection. Leather racing jackets paired with hand-waxed suedes for a retro edge that embraced the spirit of the film’s star, Steve McQueen. Set against a backdrop of pine trees and bark-speckled floors, we were transported from London to somewhere off the beaten track.
MAN SS17 Charles Jeffrey
MAN SS17 Charles Jeffrey
MAN SS17 Charles Jeffrey
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From Boots, Superdrug, supermarkets, Holland & Barrett, health stores, pharmacies *UK’s No1 men’s supplement brand. Nielsen GB ScanTrack Total Coverage Unit Sales 52 w/e 26 March 2016
THE MAN WITH A PLAN by Christopher Ritchie
From humble beginnings in his home town to the global fashion icon he is today, Tommy Hilfiger’s style is instantly recognisable yet his designs continue to innovate and surprise while retaining the classic motifs he’s made his own. Fashion London traces his career, his inspirations, and how he’s stayed relevant through four decades.
You can’t have your cake and eat it, so the saying goes, but that’s exactly what Tommy Hilfiger managed to do when he sold Tommy Hilfiger Corporation in 2006 for US $1.6 billion and still retained his position as the company’s principal designer, brand ambassador and head overseer. Although the sale to a private investment firm came amid declining sales, the Tommy Hilfiger brand is still going strong and proves the American preppy style is never going out of fashion.
Having started out with a tiny budget in the late 1960s with a lot of hard work and a little help along the way, Hilfiger, now 65, has built up an incredible empire that spans the globe and rakes in billions every year. If he hadn’t decided to pursue a career in design when he headed to New York in 1979, the fashion world would be a much poorer place in every sense. The designer recalls how it all began: “I was still in high school when I got together with some friends and we pooled what little money we had – around $150 – and opened up a shop called People’s Place and we started selling bell-bottom jeans and then jackets. I never went to any design school. I just
started sketching my own concepts, bought the fabric I wanted, and used local seamstresses to produce the clothes that I started selling in these stores I had opened up in Elmira and at various college campuses.” However, he says their early success was short-lived as he and his partners were spending a lot of time partying at places like Studio 54 instead of looking after their stores. “I over-expanded and then had to file for Chapter 11 bankruptcy at age 23. That taught me you have to focus just as much on the business side as on the creative aspect if you want to be successful.”
It’s clear, though, that Hilfiger’s strength is in design, and throughout his long career he’s been responsible for creating what one could call ‘timeless classics’. His original inspiration, however, was very much of its time. “I enjoyed the musical revolution and cultural revolution that began in the 60s and continued into the 70s,” he recalls. “It was the hippie era and everyone wanted to look like a rock star. I loved the Rolling Stones and Jimi Hendrix and it was an exciting time. It was fun! “Later I started hanging out in New York with Andy Warhol, among other trendsetters of the time, and getting into the vibe there and observing all the different cultural influences. I also loved the art and FashionLondon 15
films that were being made at that time.” Fascinated by American culture and given the opportunity to create a sense of style, people could really identify with Hilfiger’s designs which bear the patriotic red, white and blue label, but one might wonder about the origin of the distinctive nautical flag. “I’ve always loved yachts and sailing and I had this idea of establishing my brand with the flag, which proved to be a very important factor in creating consumer awareness,” he says. “I also wanted to make clothes that were affordable and wearable... I’m very proud to have been part of the process of spreading American culture around the world.” Indeed, Hilfiger’s success story embodies the American Dream. “I’m an example of someone who started with nothing and became successful,” he agrees. Standing the test of time, as Hilfiger’s designs have, is something not all designers can claim, but it’s his keen sense of what’s cool and an obvious flair for trendsetting that keep the brand fresh. “I’ve learnt that it’s important to stick to your roots,” he says. “In the 90s, I saw that the rap community [when Snoop Dogg started wearing his clothes, sales soared] was a huge untapped market and we were very successful in catering to that trend. But the lessons of that experience were that trends come and go and you should stay true to your original vision. You should never lose sight of that.” Some choice collaborations have played a part in his enduring success too, including a 60s and 70s dress
line with kooky US actress Zooey Deschanel featuring 16 vintage designs consistent with Hilfiger’s nautical motifs and reflecting Deschanel’s own tastes. “He’s such a great mentor and he let me put my own spin on things,” Deschanel said at the time, while Hilfiger recalls what drew them together: “Zooey is the epitome of the all-American girl. She’s funny, spirited, youthful, and has her own distinctive sense of style and sophistication.” Last year we saw his work with American socialite Olivia Palermo on the summer 2015 collection and this year we see a range produced with supermodel Gigi Hadid. Hilfiger has seen (and in many cases helped) the world of fashion change over the last four decades, so what’s his view of the challenges young designers face today? “There’s a lot more competition today, but when you have a good business plan, a good concept and good designs, you can still succeed,” he says. “You need to be able to master every aspect of the business from the production side to the marketing side. It also takes a lot more money today than when I was looking for investors and business partners in the 70s.” For Hilfiger everything certainly did stitch together, but he’s refreshingly humble when he looks back on his achievements. “I’ve been very lucky in this business,” he nods. “Sometimes there were moments where I lost my way and wasn’t sure of what I wanted to do, but I am truly grateful for all the success I’ve had and for everything life has given me.”
I loved the Rolling Stones and Jimi Hendrix and it was an exciting time
mellow summer With summer hitting London, we wish for days of sun ahead. Embrace it with beautiful colours, flowers, a touch of nature, and of course sophistication with eleganceâ€Ś
Paz Stammler Model:
Jacolijn from M+P Models London Hair: Narad Kutowaroo Make up:
Lydia Warhurst Nails:
Madeleine Ayers Stylist:
Pink Blouse www.rebeccaminkoff.com Handmade Floral Rings www.anabelachan.com
2 3 Look 2
Knitted Tank Top www.alcltd.com at www.harveynichols.com
Red Flared Trousers www.aliceandolivia.com
Floral Head Crown www.heavenlyheaddress.com Peach Maxi Dress www.solacelondon.com Citrine Ring www.anabelachan.com
4 5 6 Look 4
Hoop Earrings www.anabelachan.com Floral Jacket www.aliceandolivia.com
White Shirt www.maisonmargiela.com at www.harveynichols.com
Marigold Jersey Top www.maisonmargiela.com at www.harveynichols.com Amethyst Ring www.anabelachan.com
Suede Skirt www.calvinklein.com
Polkadot Dress www.sabinna.com
Trend of the moment
High Summer It’s high time for high summer and the new season collections are literally rolling into stores as you read this. Fashion London has you covered for both holiday options and city looks, whilst highlighting some of the hottest trends for guys and girls.
Men – Tiers of Joy
Layered looks can give even the simplest of pieces a fashion forward edge. Play around with sizes to create a unique look and pair short shorts with oversized separates. Use thin cottons and light linens to beat the heat, but choose a casual jacket for the cooler evenings. Mixing and matching your collars, cuffs, zips and buttons makes this trend fun to experiment with. In our first look we’ve contrasted a light and airy palette with dark accessories for a post-modern edge, yet we have a formal option for you dapper gents as well.
Oliver Spencer at Mr Porter £395
House of Fraser £45
New Look £22.99
British sports shoe brand Norman Walsh has teamed up with McCann London to create a style based on their iconic art deco building at Herbrand Street, London
by Mark Cullum FashionLondon 26
River Island £18
Reveal some detail with this cropped shirt from Topman Design by pairing it with this stylish printed tee from River Island
Kapital at Mr Porter £185
Royal Republiq at Harvey Nichols £155
Topman Design £100
Women – House on the Prairie
Take romantic ruffles, fabulous flares and a pinch of equine spirit to tackle this season’s prairie trend. Floral embroidery is a key element to look out for, whilst fringe accessories touch on that Americana vibe. Add splashes of colour with footwear and accessories, but keep the clothing subdued and let it speak for itself. These looks are great for home and away, where you can take this trend to any environment – be it urban, rural or coastal. Monsoon SS16
Miss Selfridge -£35
Sanchita at Harvey Nichols £225
Platform sandals are one of the hottest trends for SS16! These bejewelled pieces from Sanchita are perfect for day-to-night.
Versace £123 www.sunglasses-shop.co.uk
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KENDALL JENNER By Karen Anne Overton Her transition from reality TV star to supermodel hasnâ€™t been an easy one, but with some highly coveted campaigns under her belt and a burgeoning reputation as a catwalk star, Kendall Jenner has proved the haters unequivocally wrong.
FashionLondon edit Fashion model Kendall Jenner has come a long way since her television debut as a young and precocious member of the family in the enormously successful reality show Keeping Up with the Kardashians. Barely into her teens, the star was fresh-faced and naturally beautiful, but unlike the rest of the Kardashian clan Jenner always had an air of reluctance about being thrust into the limelight so young. The reason? Ever since she could remember, her dream was to be a supermodel. “Modelling was always something I wanted to do,” Jenner says. “When I was in middle school, my friends and I would go off to take photos. I even made my own modelling book. It’s the stupidest thing! I didn’t get into modelling because I felt like I had to prove something. This is a career that I’ve always wanted.” Given her striking beauty, gamine physique (she is 5’10) and her family’s hugely influential celebrity status, you might assume Jenner could become a fashion sensation overnight. But this was to be no passing fad – her fashion stripes have been hard won. Signing to Wilhelmina Models in 2009, Jenner cut her teeth on the youth fashion circuit; landing a campaign for Forever 21 and Teen Vogue, American Cheerleader and Teen Prom magazine all featuring the young beauty. But it was only after signing with New York-based agency The Society that Jenner graduated into high fashion and the world started paying attention.
Modelling was always something I wanted to do During the spring 2015 fashion shows, Jenner seemingly sprang out of nowhere and wowed fashionistas with confidence, beauty and formidable presence. Strutting the catwalk for Dolce & Gabbana, Balmain, Tommy Hilfiger, Chanel and Givenchy, it soon became clear that her teenage years spent in front of the camera had given her a confidence that couldn’t be taught. “The audience doesn’t freak me out. I try not to look at anybody,” reveals the 20-year-old star. “It’s kind of entertaining when you’re not looking but you’re listening to the oohs FashionLondon 31
and aahs... I try to enjoy the moment and it’s really wonderful to be working with so many incredible designers and getting to be part of that world.” One designer in particular is a huge fan of the model and gave her a helping hand early in her career. When Marc Jacobs took the chance on Jenner, recruiting her for her catwalk debut during the ss14 New York Fashion Week, the American designer insists he had no doubts she could walk the walk: “Kendall is everything a model should be: interesting, charismatic, and most importantly, she looks great in the clothing,” he gushed. Since then her rise to the top has been swift. Signing major contracts as a campaign model for the likes of Estée Lauder and Fendi, she has also appeared on countless magazine covers, including a 13-page pictorial for Vogue, and even became a muse for the high priest of fashion, Karl Lagerfeld – surely the greatest accolade any burgeoning supermodel can receive. But one shoot in particular held great significance for Jenner: her gorgeously understated Calvin Klein campaign. “My first memory of Calvin Klein was the Kate Moss-Mark Wahlberg ad – it was amazing!” she said at the unveiling of the campaign. “Modelling for Calvin Klein Jeans is really a
dream come true. I’ve grown up wearing the brand and seeing the iconic advertising in magazines featuring some of the world’s top supermodels. To now be a part of that legacy is truly an honour.” Her career so far may have been dazzling – having now moved into her own beauty and clothes lines too – but it certainly hasn’t been without its drawbacks. With 58 million Instagram followers (she’s been dubbed one of the Instagirls by Vogue) and another 16 million on Twitter, Jenner has been able to parlay her colossal social media presence into a meteoric climb up the fashion industry ladder, but huge exposure can leave a celebrity open to haters and her initial runway appearances were met with a fair amount of critical derision and social media resentment. Clearly hurt by the backlash, she says: “Seeing myself on a Calvin Klein billboard [on LA’s Sunset Strip] is a dream come true... I want to be high fashion. I want to be taken seriously. People think that this success just came to me, but it didn’t. My family name has almost worked against me. I had to work even harder to get where I wanted because people didn’t take me seriously as a model.” There were even rumours that backstage, Jenner would endure relentless bullying from other models who were envious of her ascent to fame and who would even put their FashionLondon 32
cigarettes out in her drinks. But Jenner has long refuted these rumours and given that her best friends are fellow supermodels Gigi Hadid and Cara Delevingne, it seems highly unlikely there is any bad blood. In fact, Jenner credits her supermodel posse with helping her navigate the treacherous fashion terrain. “You have to be around these girls for work, for parties, for events, for shows especially,” she says. “It’s good to have a set of girlfriends that you can stand being around. You have to be around these people all the time!” Fellow fashionista pals and admiring designers aside, Jenner will always have the love and support of her enormous and unconventional family. Of her siblings it is big sister Kim who is the most supportive and has often spoken out about how proud she is of Jenner. The greatest show of solidarity, however, was at brother-in-law Kanye West’s recent fashion show extravaganza in Madison Square Gardens. The entire family, including Caitlyn, who was making one of her first appearances as a transgender woman, turned out in force to cheer on the musician-turneddesigner. Wearing matching Balmain, they were truly a force to be reckoned with, and when Kendall Jenner graces any catwalk or cover, her presence proves the formidable power of the entire Kardashian empire.
Itâ€™s good to have a set of girlfriends that you can stand being around. You have to be around these people all the time!
LCM ambassadors Oliver Cheshire, David Gandy & Hu Bing attend the LCM Ambassadors Closing Dinner AW16 (Darren Gerrish, British Fashion Council)
The secrets to the success of London Collections: Men by Kerry Law The Dandys of 1960s Carnaby Street, the punks of 1970s Kings Road, the Savile Row city sophisticates, the hipsters of Redchurch Street….Britain, and specifically London, has provided the template for how men dress for decades. Whether it’s streetstyle or classic ‘British gent’, the creative and cultural melting pot of London proudly leads the way…and the world follows.
BFC Show Space & Designer Showrooms, Victoria House LCM AW16 (Agnese Sanvito, British Fashion Council)
It is London’s style status that has nurtured one of the fashion world’s biggest success stories – London Collections: Men (LC:M). Seasons ahead of New York which has only hosted three dedicated menswear seasons so far, London June 2016 saw the ninth instalment of the fashion week dedicated to menswear. What started in 2009 as a single
KTZ AW16, (Dan Sims, British Fashion Council)
Burberry AW16, (Dan Sims, British Fashion Council)
afternoon dedicated to men’s fashion, is now a four day-long fashion extravaganza of shows, presentations and parties. Firmly established on the global fashion calendar, LC:M even holds its own against the scene-stealing womenswear fashion weeks. The designers that show here in London arguably represent a much broader range of styles than those at other menswear fashion weeks. The oldschool heritage style of Barbour and the suave sophistication of the Savile Row tailors, stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the edginess of JW Anderson and Christopher Shannon. The eclectic mix of styles was evident at the recent ss17 event too: alongside Anderson and Shannon were shows from TOPMAN Design (the only label to have
Craig Green AW16, (Dan Sims, British Fashion Council)
been part of a dedicated menswear showcase since 2009), Barbour, House of Holland, Burberry, Hardy Aimes, Paul Smith, Richard James, Sibling and Christopher Kane to name but a few. And it’s thanks to London that LC:M can present such an amazing roster of talent – over half of the designers hold degrees from London institutions, such is the high standard of London’s fashion colleges and courses. With the London College of Fashion and other creative hotbeds churning out new talent, London Collections: Men is where you’ll spot tomorrow’s fashion stars. But these raw ingredients of designers and famous brands alone are not the complete story behind LC:M’s success. Organisers British Fashion Council (BFC) must take huge credit
Moschino AW16, (Dan Sims, British Fashion Council)
TOPMAN DESIGN AW16, (Dan Sims, British Fashion Council)
for funnelling this energy and enthusiasm into the event it is today. Although it still requires a mountain of effort and super-slick organising, the event offers a more laid-back atmosphere than at London Fashion Week (an event also run by BFC). This loosening of the reigns allows for a little more experimentation and risk, and for the clothes to take centre stage. This not only gives LC:M credibility but obviously helps sell British brands to the lucrative overseas market (see our Fashion and the Economy feature for more on LC:M’s effect on menswear sales). To help appeal to this international market, and albeit to customers at home, the British Fashion Council are excellent at marketing LC:M on its
Margaret Howell AW16, (Dan Sims, British Fashion Council)
“Britishness” – a marketing technique used time and again by British fashion brands. Soirees are held at places like St James’ Palace (anything royal is catnip to the Asian and American markets!); and parties are publicised with endless photos of British global celebrities such as David Beckham, Idris Elba, David Gandy, Harry Styles and Colin Firth which help add that all important sparkle dust to proceedings. So, for our male readers, it’s time to start planning your wardrobe revamp for ss17 and help London keep its fashion head held high! For more information, and highlights from the shows, visit www.londoncollections.co.uk.
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Rugby heritage brand Raging Bull is worth checking out. From crisp linen jackets to cotton knitwear the founder Phil Vickery has insisted on the best quality and the range fits everyone from fly half to front row with sizing from Small to 6XL. www.ragingbull.co.uk
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6. SuperNova Surfboards SuperNova Surfboards model ‘Morning Glory’ takes off like a thoroughbred racehorse out of a gate! With an aggressive double concaves and a V-spline running down the centre this board is able to get up on the rail much faster. £425 www.supernovasurfboards.com 01273457709 firstname.lastname@example.org
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Fashion favourites High Tide by Mark Cullum We may well be set for a wash-out August so why not grab your passports and join the jet-set crowd as they head for the sands. The high summer collections are bursting with luxurious beachwear and
naturally Fashion London has handpicked some of the brightest treasures to fall on our fashion map. Be as bold as the sun and embrace the season with these premium pieces from across the globe.
Orlebar Brown £55
Etro at Mr Porter £320
Etro’s bright and beautiful espadrilles add a quirky edge to your beach wardrobe (plus they have toucans on them)!
Kirk Originals £175
Ron Dorff Swim Gym Shorts
Duchamp London £75
Orlebar Brown’s printed swimwear range are works of wearable art and we particularly love this surfer’s paradise number.
Sophia Webster at Harvey Nichols £275
Orlebar Brown £195
Medley Creations £100
Slip-On £150 Hopefashion.co.uk Sophie Anderson £370 www.harveynichols.com
by Kerry Law
Fashion and the Economy
Move over ladiesâ€Ś
menswear has made it!
As dozens of male models trotted off the London Collections: Men (LC:M) catwalk and into the sunset, tills were ringing to the sound of menswear sales. While itâ€™s a mixed bag of fortunes for womenswear, high-profile events such as LC:M are ensuring menswear sales are on the up and up.
FashionLondon economy Topman
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According to statistics released by Mintel last summer, the UK men’s clothing market has seen sales rise by 22% in the last five years to reach over £14 billion in 2015 – this a hefty chunk of global menswear sales which hover around the £300billion mark, according to Euromonitor. This represents much faster growth than the womenswear market which has dipped, spiked and flat lined like a sluggish rollercoaster over the past few quarters. How much of this growth is down to LC:M alone is hard to quantify, but the ‘halo’ effect of the event is undeniable. The buzz surrounding LC:M, which attracts media, buyers and everyone in between, at the very least drives a short-term income boost to London with industry money being spent in hotels, restaurants and shops. The resulting publicity and fashion credentials from
hosting the event also boosts London’s image, and subsequently attracts tourism and more direct forms of investment into areas such as fashion education. But are all those outlandish creations seen on the LC:M catwalks really being snapped up in stores by fashion-savvy males? The truth is…no, not really! As with womenswear, many designers may present a bold, edgy, Instagrammable collection at a show purely to boost their brand. In fact, Burberry claims that catwalk pieces only account for 5% of sales. The clothing and accessories actually filling designer stores (and keeping the tills ringing) are the more accessible designs – which in reality, for menswear, means a lot of neutral suits and brogues for the office. What LC:M specifically influences is the rise of the British menswear label – today
FashionLondon economy Barbour Lighthouse Shorts
27% of male shoppers show a preference for purchasing British clothes
27% of male shoppers show a preference for purchasing British clothes, shoes and accessories, according to Mintel. And shoes appear to be particularly hot property with nearly two fifths of men (38%) having bought a pair of shoes in the last three months of 2014 – a fact sure to please independent London shoe designers such as Turk & Fillmore. Large stores like Harrods devote increased floor space to British menswear designers during LC:M as this London store knows the event will provide considerable uplift in demand for British brands, particularly
amongst its wealthy international customer base. A resulting halo effect then trickles down to mid-range and high-street retailers. With demand for fashionable on-trend clothing growing among men, retailers are starting to see menswear as a safer bet. John Lewis’ weekly sales updates regularly state menswear is a growth area, and Moss Bros reported a 5.1% like-for-like increase in sales this spring. This translates into greater retail space being given over to menswear, and brands even branching out into opening new dedicated menswear stores, such as Whistles’
menswear-only store in Shoreditch. But it’s not just ‘bricks and mortar’ shops enjoying the LC:M effect – online menswear sales are also on the rise. IbisWorth reported a 17.4% growth in online sales in menswear between 2010 and 2015, outpacing all other categories. It also predicts that it will continue to grow at an annual average of 14.2% between 2015 and 2020. With independent, premium and mainstream brands all clamouring for the male wallet, fashion-savvy men have never had it so good – and we love it!
IbisWorth reported a 17.4% growth in online sales in menswear
Barbour Reelin Jacket With Hood
1. Boudoir des Lubies
Made in France and hand finished using high quality materials such as crocodile or calfskin leather, the timeless design of Boudoir des Lubies transcends seasons . Designed by the Parisian architect Myra Taguelmint, each bag carries a Parisian street. Featured is the Saint Germain, an elegant and practical square shaped bag with a gold plated chain. Available
in different colours, this bag matches all kinds of outfits. Visit www.boudoirdeslubies.com, or the boutique at 2 Rue Dupin, Paris.
2. Joumanna Jewellery
Joumanna Jewellery, an online destination showcasing an eclectic mix of the best statement jewellery from around the world. The carefully curated site offers a unique hub for luxurious, artisan jewellery from groundbreaking
designers at accessible prices. Make a Statement. www. joumanna.com
3. Kryptik Rose
Kryptik Rose is an independent London streetwear brand offering bright and bold apparel and accessories for women. Available in a stunning range of unique prints, their high quality yet affordable apparel are unlike any others in the market. To find out more, visit: www.kryptikrose.com
4. Cloudberry Designs and Clogs by Jackie Lucas
An exciting new brand of stylish, contemporary hand crafted jewellery and Swedish footwear. Offering a bespoke service or buy direct; Things British, St.Pancras; Arts Lounge, Swaffham; Cambridge Contemporary Crafts. Jackie will take part in Cambridge Open studios in July! www.cloudberrydesigns.com www.cloudberryclogs.com
Fashion and Technology by Abi Adeosun
Menswear styling gets a financial boost Thread.com, the free online personal styling service for men based in East London, was recently awarded ÂŁ4m funding from investor Beringea who joins existing investors Balderton Capital and a number of angel investors in efforts to expand the company. Founded by serial entrepreneurs Kieran Oâ€™Neill, Ben Phillips and Ben Kucsan in 2012 Thread.com aims to support men who want to dress well, but find it difficult or frustrating to do so.
Thread.com uses a unique combination of human stylists and powerful algorithms to make it easy for men to look their best in current fashion trends. On signing up, users fill in questionnaires and upload photos of themselves. By combining the expertise of human stylists with the technological power of machine-learning algorithms, Thread is able to provide personalised style recommendations, reducing the endless choice of brands down to items suggested as perfect for each individual. Thread’s free online styling service caters to the full range of styles, sizes, and budgets, making it accessible to any man looking to feel great about the way he dresses.
The technology allows for stylists to search through thousands of items to deliver the best experience for each client, and as the service is easily accessible online, customers who may not otherwise get the chance to have a personal stylist can take advantage of this personal service. The latest funding will help Thread to continue to scale rapidly within the UK market, growing its existing user base of 325,000 men and expanding its current team of 30. Kieran O’Neill, co-founder and CEO of Thread said: “It’s been a really exciting journey discovering how to fuse human stylists with FashionLondon 45
powerful algorithms to help guys dress well without having to go shopping. The business has been growing quickly, and we’re excited to have the support from Beringea, Balderton and others to allow us to further that. I started this business because I had this problem myself, and it’s exciting to see thousands of other men get the same value from Thread that I do.” So with London Collections: Men only recently over, the men of our city are no doubt keen to improve their style and get hold of the latest collections on show. Thread.com makes it easier to do so.
by Kerry Law
Make a splash in AURIA’s eco swimwear Will you be wearing fishnets or even mesh fabric swimming gear on the beach this summer? We don’t mean tights (it’s summer!), nor are we suggesting you don an actual fisherman’s fishing net. We’re talking about the hot London swimwear brand AURIA.
Futuristic-style swimming suits, bikinis and swim shorts are all created using fabric made from recycled fishing nets. Discarded fishing nets are a huge problem across the world’s oceans. Fishing communities in impoverished locations often find it too costly to retrieve lost fishing nets. These synthetic nets, sometimes stretching hundreds of metres long, can trap unwanted fish and cause untold damage to marine environments.
other sustainable ways of life. The brainchild of Diana Auria, who partnered with Margot Bowman back in 2013, AURIA aims to create sought-after swimwear in a sustainable, innovative way. Embracing new generation fabrics, all AURIA pieces are designed and developed in London, and made in England. AURIA’s designs have been worn by the likes of Rihanna, Daisy Lowe and Eliza Dolittle. We love the playful styles including the ‘World Map’ one-piece (£165); the ‘Airmail’ bikini (in the sale for £50, down from £125); ‘Wish You Were Here’ one-piece (reduced from £160 to £64); and the ‘Black Fly’ one-shoulder one-piece (£165).
A truly innovative recycling process takes old fishing nets discarded in the Philippines, and extracts the durable material Nylon 6, eventually turning it into workable yarn. This textile is being used to make the cutting-edge swimwear of this brand, as well as anything from carpets to bags! AURIA works with Net-Works, a project that partners with local communities to remove old fishing nets and transform them into usable fabric. Through this work, the project also encourages the community to invest in their children’s education and
So don an AURIA cozzie, lie back on your sun-lounger and know that you’re wearing the future – and a socially-responsible one at that! Find out more at www.auria-london.com
by Mark Cullum
Behind the scenes at London Collections: Men with the Fudge Professional hair stylists gave us a candid view of the backstage madness, capturin g models on the cusp of their runw ay appearance. Everyone here is built for the chao s and thrives on th e pressure, but w e bet many people would sooner chok e on the fumes of ha ir product before they even got clos e to a model. Markus Lupfer SS17
At the back of the Sibling ss17 show, amid the plumes of hairspray, a strong Miamiesque vibe was buzzing throughout. Towelled separates in vibrant pop prints donned many an impressive physique as the designers kept knitwear as their strongest offering. Oversized robes and striking cardigans stood with edgy tennis-inspired looks from the accompanying female models. We loved the collision between beachwear and sportswear, while the sheer brashness of the collection
Sibling ss17 - Image Credit: Mark Rabadan
kept us totally absorbed. Katie Eary turned things upside down and under water for her runway show when backstage her models were styled with oil-slick hair, accompanying the ‘evil barracuda’ print found on much of the collection. This was all about the darker depths and it gave a whole new meaning to the term: nautical fashion. This was something else entirely, and we loved it every minute of it. Elsewhere on the streetwear front, posing a
far cleaner aesthetic of streetwear, Markus Lupfer delivered a contemporary collection straight from an urban jungle. A safari nod with utility shirts and jungle prints made up the modern collage of separates and blue/black leopard spots featured heavily throughout. The big cat embroidery on denim patchwork was our stand-out piece for its unashamedly fierce approach – a bold reminder that we’ve made it through another incredible fashion showcase.
Katie Eary ss17 - Image Credit: Mark Rabadan
1. EG Chauffeurs
3. Monc Eyewear
A highly professional chauffeur company using luxury and prestige cars. With an exceptionally reliable team they provide a superb level of service for HNWI, large corporations and VIP’s throughout the UK for business or leisure travel. 10 % off with LF10. www.egchauffeurs.com +44 (0) 207 117 2905
A British eyewear brand that cares about true design and craftsmanship. Each frame takes inspiration from up and coming design locations and is curated here in London then handmade from scratch by Italian artisanal makers. Explore the new range online from August 1st www.monclondon.com
2. Coaltown Coffee Roasters
4. Arthur Knight Shoes
Coaltown are a Welsh speciality coffee roastery based in a small ex-mining town named Ammnford. Their signature blends Black Gold No3 & Pit Prop No1 won Great taste awards in 2014 & 15 respectively & is available to purchase in Selfridges & Co. www.coaltowncoffee.co.uk
Luxury brilliant white driving shoe moccasin for him and her by Arthur Knight. The perfect complement to “Quintessentially British” summer clothing. Men’s white leather driving shoe moccasins: £85-00 Ladies’ white leather & patent saddle driving moccasins: £74-95 www.ArthurKnight.com
1. Liz Tyler
Designer jeweller Liz Tyler delights in creating individual jewellery with a sense of movement in the flow of the design. Liz will be exhibiting at Henley on Thames 24-26th June. For details visit www.liztyler.com or telephone 01258 820222
2. Blue Lion Band
Music for your feet! A dedicated consultant works with you from pre-booking through to your big day, ensuring the best possible soundtrack from top professional musicians. Visit www.bluelionband.co.uk or contact 07 459 582 882 / email@example.com
3. Blades Bridal
Catherine Blades Couture provides an exclusive bespoke wedding dress design service from the very first sketch to the exquisite finished gown. Each dress is lovingly created at the beautiful and tranquil countryside Blades Bridal studio in Berkshire www.bladesbridal.co.uk - 01635268963
4. Let Love Blooms
Luxurious bespoke bouquets, headpieces, courages, etc. All hand crafted and tantalisingly different. From razzle dazzle to vintage chic. We can incorporate sentimental pieces into individual creations to make your wedding unique to you. www.letloveblooms.co.uk 07979681908
The Royal School of Needlework at Hampton Court Palace
Our BA (Hons) Hand Embroidery for Fashion, Interiors, Textile Art fuses traditional hand embroidery techniques with contemporary art and design concepts. The Degree Course also features live projects with fashion houses, designers and galleries. W: rsndegree.uk T: 020 3166 6929
Fashionablehomes FashionLondon promotion
Monroe Avenue MONROE AVENUE reimagines vintage and antique furniture through creative restoration, infusing each piece with a contemporary edge. Always expect the unexpected. A furniture sourcing and bespoke make-over service offered. Monroeavenue.co.uk firstname.lastname@example.org +44 (0) 771 8825970
Londonâ€™s original Mexican Cantina. Serving the best margaritas in town since 1982 with a friendly, caring service alongside homemade, healthy Mexican food. 20% off your bill when you quote FL! Not available in conjunction with other offers. www.cafe-pacifico.com
Fashion London chats toâ€Ś
by Abi Adeosun Multi-talented Style Influencer, entrepreneur, and TV presenter Darren Kennedy has interviewed the worldâ€™s biggest stars including; Victoria Beckham, Tommy Hilfiger, and David Gandy. He has never been afraid of tackling tough subjects demonstrated in his shows; The Unemployables, Like a Virgin and Gay Daddy. Putting him
on the spotlight for a change, Fashion London grabbed a few moments of the Style Influencer's busy schedule to catch up with the stylish and unbelievably friendly Mr Kennedy as he prepared for a busy week at London Collections: Men (LC:M).
including a completely bottle green suit.’’ And you have a collection with Specsavers…. “Yes! Darren Kennedy Recommends is my edit of favourite styles for men and women now available at Specsavers. I wear glasses as do a lot of people, it is a part of what you look like. It’s great to change the shape and colour and style to change your look. I’ve enjoyed working with Specsavers in their head office, they are a great team. I am hosting the Specsavers Wearer of the year 2016 Irish final this year and attending the events in London.’’ Your cv is impressive including a first class honours degree! What’s your highlight so far?
It’s LC:M! What have you got planned and who are you looking forward to seeing? “My schedule is not yet confirmed! Last year I enjoyed the Topman shows. Also Tom Ford is great as his shows are small and he presents them himself. He is an amazing talent and businessman. There are always a few parties to go to. There is so much to do during the week it is hectic!’’
You have been the resident stylist for ITV’s flagship show “This Morning.” What are your tips for what to wear this ss16? “For guys, tailored fashion has evolved. You can take a smart suit but inject it with elements of leisurewear, sportswear and colour. My advice is to not be afraid to be creative with your wardrobe. I am a big fan of colour! This season I am loving the Cuban colour trend. I add a splash of colour to every outfit
even if it is just in my socks!’’ Tell us about your menswear collection “I have launched my sixth collection of tailored menswear which I am excited about. I enjoy working on it at every stage; from the mood board, creating the vibe to choosing fabrics, lining buttons to the final capsule collection. It’s about taking the signature of tailoring and keeping it current. This season there is more colour
“Different jobs come at different times. My first TV show was very exciting. Looking at the last year, I have enjoyed being part of the production of my TV shows; when you start with the seed of an idea, work on the format, and see it come to fruition, that’s very rewarding. It was great working on “unemployables” as we supported young people that don’t normally get the chance to achieve their dreams into their dream jobs – we witnessed them at their most vulnerable and then on their path to employability.’’ We at Fashion London are making moves to influence the fashion
I admire David Beckham who always looks great whether dressed smart or casual, he doesn’t seem to have to try too hard
industry and move away from using ultra-skinny models on the catwalks and in their campaigns. We are working to encourage the use of more realistic models. What’s you view on this? “During my show last year at LC:M I was particular about using male models that looked like men wearing clothes for men. That’s my approach. That skinny look doesn’t personally appeal. Likewise, with women, people have to be healthy.’’
Do you have a celebrity style icon? “I admire David Beckham who always looks great whether dressed smart or casual, he doesn’t seem to have to try too hard. I also think James Franco scrubs up well in a suit.’’ …. And who would you like to give a makeover to? “Elton John! No not really, I admire Elton John’s sense of style, it is fun. I don’t really like to think of it like that. Sense of style
comes from within and people should have fun with fashion. I am happy to advise people that ask me for it.’’ This is the time when a lot of young people are leaving school and will be looking for work. What advice would you give to them? “Mainly my advice is to roll your sleeves up and be prepared to work hard. This goes for any industry. Work hard, make an impression and be nice to people.”
So what’s next for the talented Mr Kennedy over the next few weeks, what are you up to? “Obviously LC:M is coming up and then I’m straight off to Florence for a shoot and working on my next collection. I am also looking forward to the production of my next TV show.’’ For more on Darren Kennedy’s collection check out his website: www.darrenkennedyofficial.com
by Kerry Law
Say no to child slave labour in fashion The recent claims that Beyonce’s new clothing line is made by sweatshop labourers for 44p an hour has put fast fashion’s dirty secret back on the agenda once more, and Fashion London has spotted. Campaigners from New Zealand are now bringing their child labourfree movement to Europe – first stop, London. These campaigners may be based 11,000 miles from us, but their cause is certainly close to our hearts.
we believe that a wider consumer-led movement based on honesty, transparency and ethics is what will drive global change
To coincide with the recent World Day Against Child Labour (12th June), social enterprise Child Labour Free, founded by two education entrepreneurs in 2015, is now launching in the UK. It is claimed that around 150 million children are trapped in slave labour around the world today. To address the issue, Child Labour Free works with businesses and retailers to help their supply chains become child labour-free. The organisation has already certified eight NZ brands with a further ten on the journey towards becoming child labour-free. Its sights are now set on encouraging UK brands to demonstrate their ethical credentials by applying for the certification and adopting the Child Labour Free Mark in their publicity. As the movement is consumer-led, you our readers can help by lending your voice to the campaign and demanding your clothing isn’t made using child labour.
consumer-led movement based on honesty, transparency and ethics is what will drive global change.”
Co-Founder and Director, Nikki Prendergast explains Child Labour Free’s three-pronged approach, “We offer brands, retailers and companies in supply chains - from field to factory - a tiered certification system, the Child Labour Free Mark. We give back to children, families and communities affected by child labour through the Child Labour Free Foundation. And we believe that a wider
If you’re quick (spot it before 19th June), you’ll be able to catch a striking mural on the Great Eastern Road, Shoreditch, set by graffiti artists Victoria Villasana and Zabou, which is scheduled to increase awareness of the campaign. Mexican born Victoria was chosen for the task by Child Labour Free’s founders for her sensitivity to the child labour topic (a significant problem in her
To support the cause this summer, fairtrade and organic brand Freeset – a social enterprise employing women in India otherwise trapped in the sex trade of Kolkhata’s infamous Sonagacchi district – has created a range of limited edition graffiti art T-shirts. The tees, made in Freeset’s factory which is set to become Child Labour Free certified, are available to buy from the Child Labour Free website for £20. Proceeds will fund the development of an early learning centre in the city which will provide a safe haven for the children of Kolkhata’s sex workers. The centre will also give hundreds of other children access to free education, in turn aiming to keep them away from a life working in sweatshops.
home country), whilst Zabou has a strong reputation for playing on stereotypes. Victoria said, “There are about 100,000 kids under 14 working in Mexico because their parents don’t earn enough to support their families. What I like about Child Labour Free is that they work closely with the families to help them get out of poverty, rather than just stopping retailers from buying from these suppliers. This will help children enjoy better lives that are full of play, rather than just work.” Zabou added, “It’s exciting to collaborate with Victoria again on this thoughtprovoking project. I hope our mural will help raise awareness about ending child labour, it’s a great cause.” If you spot the mural, or if you just want to support the cause, please actively follow Child Labour Free on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, and say ‘no’ to #allworknoplay to add your voice to the movement and make the fashion industry listen. Fashion brands and businesses can also sign-up for accreditation and start their journey towards displaying the Child Labour Free Mark. For more details, and to buy a limited edition T-shirt (to wear with pride!), visit www.childlaborfree.com.
BOUDOIR DES LUBIES PARIS BAYRAM TARAKCI PHOTOGRAPHY www.boudoirdeslubies.com
EVERY DAY 7 YOUNG PEOPLE, AGED 13 TO 24, ARE DIAGNOSED WITH CANCER. We want to make sure they all have access to the specialist care and support we provide, no matter where they live. But right now, for every young person we can reach, there’s one we can’t.
Please text ‘GIVE’ to 70500 to give £5 to help our vital work.
Teenage Cancer Trust will receive 100% of your donation. Teenage Cancer Trust will text you once to thank you and a second time to ask if you’d like to hear more news. They won’t contact you again if you don’t reply. This is a charity donation service for Teenage Cancer Trust. It costs £5 plus one standard message. Always ask the bill payer’s permission. The mobile payment helpline is 03306600425. Teenage Cancer Trust is a registered charity: 1062559 (England & Wales); SC039757 (Scotland)
Photo: Nick Miners
YOU CAN HELP US REACH EVERY YOUNG PERSON WITH CANCER
Style in Motion
Travel in style It’s time for your summer holidays! Wherever you go, travel in style with these lightweight, durable luggage sets chosen by us...
Ted Baker Stencilled Stem Suitcase £199 www.amara.com
by Abi Adesoun
Debenhams Holiday White Ultramarine Medium £69 www.debenhams.com
SELFRIDGES Globe Trotter Candy 30 trolley suitcase £1,385.00
Globe-Trotter An exclusive, limited-edition suitcase, imagined by designer and creative director Sofia Sanchez de Betak, inspired by her recent summer vacation in Greece. www.luxurycollectionstore.com
Bentley Bentley Collection items are available globally online www.bentleycollection.com
Monolith Security style and comfort with the suitcase’s secure TSA lock ensuring that valuable items can’t be touched. A convenient grab handles makes loading and unloading an easy task. www.monolithblack.com/collections/monolith-luggage
Cath Kidston suitcase £115 Cath Kidston Orchard Bloom (holdall) £40 www.daisypark.co.uk
Truly Tailor Made by Abi Adeosun
Sharp, refined and presentable, a tailored suit flatters the physique and communicates, power, confidence and esteem. Whether for work, a wedding or another important event, no other type of clothing has the same kind of impact as a well fitted suit. When a suit is made to measure to the individual the effect is even greater, especially for men that struggle to find a suit for their size. Appearing on the BBC’s Dragons Den with their new and innovative design idea, emerging menswear brand Tailor Made London not only offer a selection of flattering made to measure suits but are attempting to modernise the tailoring process by combining 3D body scanning with traditional techniques.
Located in Shoreditch, East London, Tailor Made London was born out of the desire to bring elite tailoring to a mass audience and offer high quality bespoke tailoring at affordable prices. They are, we believe, the first and only English men’s tailor using body scanning technology to create bespoke suits. The fully automated contact free 3D body scanner takes thousands of body measurements in just 10 seconds. Then using advanced algorithmic software creates a 3D model of the customer’s body which is used to laser cut the fabric to achieve a perfectly fitted garment. “In just 10 seconds, our laser body scanner takes thousands of precise body measurements allowing us to precisely measure your body form and create a garment that fits perfectly” is the description. A fun and attractive prospect for men of all sizes who want to look their best. Once the quick and efficient 3D scanning and measurement is complete, the in-house tailors and style consultants guide customers through choice of a wide range of colours, fabrics and finishes. Everything from the cut to the lining and buttons to the embroidery is up for optional altering. Unique features can include everything
from coloured lining to customised suits, jackets, blazers, shirts, overcoats and other casual menswear items. There is a choice of seasonal collections consisting of over 3000 British and Italian Savile Row fabrics for every budget and occasion. Tailor Made London emphasize the importance of choosing the right fabric stating that the quality will make or break the quality and appearance of the suit; “Every Tailor Made suit carries the weavers label as a sign of authenticity and purity of provenance. Whether you are looking for a super 150’s worsted suit, a Harris Tweed jacket, or a Mongolian cashmere coat – we cater for every occasion, be it work, evening or leisure wear.” What we love about this concept is the depth to which customers can choose how their finished suit will look. In addition to all of the above, each garment is truly personalised with options such as adding name, initials or even a message woven into the garment’s fabric. Tailored suits are made in 4-6 weeks, at a price of £600. To find out more or book an appointment visit the website www.tailormadelondon.com
10 Savile Row, London W1S 3PF Tel: +44 (0)20 7287 2941 • Fax: +44 (0)20 7734 8794 Email: email@example.com • www.dege-skinner.co.uk