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London

F ashion

London’s luxury guide to fashion for men & women

issue 16

Autumn/Winter 2016 and London Fashion Week


©2016 COACH®

FALL 2016

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FashionLondon editor

editor’s

Letter September London Fashion Week (LFW) is so well timed. Soon after holiday season, just as the weather is changing and light hours are reduced, this biannual event hovers temptingly on the horizon. Something for the fashion industry and fashion lovers to look forward to, I am sure you agree. Our "Style in Motion" piece this issue takes a quick glance at the event as well as the other renowned September Fashion Weeks across the globe. This issue we embrace the new season with a focus on autumn/winter 2016 (aw16). "Fashion Favourites" indulges in the new velvet trend, and "Urban Fashion" showcases the current watch collection for aw16 from Swatch.

gracing our front cover, and feel her particularly relevant for our LFW issue. Perhaps because I grew up in the era she grew up in, she remains one of my favourite models of all time. She continues to ooze a mysterious chic sense of beauty which is quite unique from many other models, and always captures my attention. Find your favourite part of this issue as you enjoy your free London fashion read . Don't forget to check out our regular "Trend of the Moment" feature to get on top of the look for this season.... www.fashionlondon.co

My favourite part of this issue however has to be our feature with Britain's supermodel Kate Moss. I have been looking forward to this beautiful woman

FashionLondon promotion

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FashionLondon 6


FashionLondon editor

editor’s

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FashionLondon contents

Contents

Tinie Tempah in Burberry Velvet Jacket (image credit: British Fashion Council press portal)

unique for issue 16 12 THE MYTHICAL MISS MOSS 18 Inspiring City 30 THE LIGHT AND THE DARK OF CARA DELEVINGNE 52 Enjoy London, enjoy fashion, enjoy London Fashion Week!

Regular Features 10 CATWALK INDULGENCE: Behind the scenes 26 TREND OF THE MOMENT: Check Yourself. Super Future. 38 FASHION FAVOURITES: Velvet Wonderland 40 FASHION AND ECONOMY: Can the global fashion supply chain survive Brexit? 44 FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY: From crowdsource to catwalk: the new collaborative design trend 46 SUSTAINABLE FASHION: New season’s bags that are easy on the environment

Fashion London www.fashionlondon.co

contact@fashionlondon.co | advertising@fashionlondon.co 0203 603 3169 Publisher – FLM Ltd

48 URBAN FASHION: What's your Swatch?

Editor-in-Chief – Clare Susannah Farmer Cover Image – Kate Moss

56 FASHION AND CHARITY: One for me, and one for you! The footwear brands taking big steps for charity

Graphic Designer – Nicholas Birkett www.smart-page.co.uk

60 STYLE IN MOTION: Around the world in fashion days

Contributors – Mark Cullum, Kerry Law,

64 UP AND COMING DESIGNER: Express your many sides in style FashionLondon 8

Photographer – Vanya Dickens Chief Contributor – Abi Adeosun Karen Anne Overton, Jake Taylor


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FashionLondon style by Mark Cullum Photography by Davide Cossu

Behind the Scenes

Once again it’s all eyes on London as cameras, editors, bloggers and vloggers descend on London Fashion Week (LFW) for the ss17 shows. Although when writing this temperatures are still warm enough this September for us to appreciate next year’s collections, we haven't forgotten that autumn is just around the corner! But fret not fashionistas, because we discovered back in February that aw16 is full of exciting treats. Here’s what we found when lurking backstage at some of our favourite shows… Belstaff Bringing the seventies to the modern motorcycle world, Belstaff ’s aw16 collection paired bold leathers with patchwork pieces. Autumnal hues were evocative of the changing foliage whilst the collection continued north and presented statement outerwear destined for sub-zero climes. Camel coats, Mongolian shearling and more contemporary snow-white parkas led the way for wintery womenswear inspired by the likes of Edith “Jackie” Ronnie – the pioneering female historian to be the first working woman on an Antarctic expedition.

Belstaff AW16

Belstaff AW16

Belstaff AW16

Bora Aksu This designer’s dark yet romantic winter collection pays homage to the Grand Duchess Olga of Russia. Her story took her from the fading opulence of the Russian Empire where she fled to Denmark after the revolution and lived out the rest of her days on farmland. This visible transition and fusion of culture makes this one of Bora’s most captivating collections to date. Sumptuous eye make-up contrasted wildly with folklike dresses that emphasised a bold yet delicate character. This season was more diverse as the designer went far beyond his cocktail dress comfort zone.

Bora Aksu

Bora Aksu

DAKS The palette was dark but reminiscent of winter sunsets as burnt oranges cut through the sultry blacks. The DAKS aw16 collection embraced smoky, abstract prints that paired exquisitely with textured black fabrics. Velvets, satins and luxurious wools teamed perfectly with light chiffons, with Victorian lace details adding to the feminine allure. Models donned fedoras and mesmerised us with dark shadowy eyes to present a truly contemporary eveningwear collection. This show was high up on our lists for the finest in luxury womenswear.

DAKS AW16

DAKS AW16

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DAKS AW16


FashionLondon style Eudon Choi

Eudon Choi AW16

Eudon Choi AW16

Eudon Choi AW16

Muted pastels contrasted nicely with touches of bold metallic for a feminine look that offered a futuristic edge. Oversized outerwear featured curved lines on soft fabrics, while asymmetric pleating added a playful element to Choi’s designs. The juxtaposed features of the aw16 collection came from the designer’s interest in two distinctly different abstract artists: Saloua Raouda Choucair and Helen Frankenthaler. The result was the manifestation of two bold minds with sharp, graphic lines and colours from Choucair and a softer palette with more fluid shapes from Frankenthaler.

Holly Fulton

Holly Fulton AW16

Holly Fulton AW16

Paisley has never been so playful as Holly Fulton, one of our favourite LFW designers proved with true gusto. There was not a plain piece in sight with each look as vivid as the last. Beyond the statement outerwear and dresses, Fulton delivered delicate ruffled blouses, chunky cable knits and awesomely striking jumpsuits. This was a winter collection through and through but rich in the designer’s incredible taste for colour and eye-popping designs. Bell sleeves gave the outlandish parkas a further contemporary twist, while luxe knitwear came in collaboration with John Smedley.

J. JS Lee

JJS Lee AW16

JJS Lee AW16

JJS Lee AW16

Structure and tailoring was key to this vibrant collection that quenched any thirst for colour with the ripest of hues. Power dressing made way for bold knit constructions, which then made way for blocks of colour and patterns inspired by Victorian upholstery. Even the monochrome elements made up of abstract houndstooth struck a chord and turned many a head. The collection was masculine in style, feminine in construction and absolute in its delivery. Korean-born Jackie certainly made clear her skill and talent for master pattern cutting.

Sibling

Sibling AW16

Sibling AW16

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If disco knitwear wasn’t a thing before, it is now. Sibling presented a blazing collection of vibrant 80s-inspired pieces that rocked the catwalk and backstage alike. It was one of the most avant-garde shows with the design duo making the repeat proclamation that knitwear is by no means boring. Along with patterned knits in yellows, pinks, purples and blues, models donned full beaded body-suits and Victorian-style neck ruffles fit for any dancefloor queen. With lip-gloss aplenty and sparkly nipple covers throughout, this brazen bunch really did set the LFW catwalk on fire.


FashionLondon EDIT

MYTHICAL MISS MOSS by Jake Taylor FashionLondon 12


FashionLondon EDIT

Discovered at the tender age of 14, transformed into an international wild child by her mid-twenties and still enjoying icon status: Kate Moss has arguably never played by the rules in either her career or personal life. But behind the features, made famous the world over by some of fashion’s most creative masterminds, lies a true London girl who took on the giants of the catwalk at their own game… and won. For someone whose face is instantly recognisable across the globe as a symbol for high fashion and lasting beauty, Kate Moss’ often prickly relationship with the press has rendered interviews with the iconic supermodel few and far between. Although she is splashed across billboards and has strutted the catwalk from Paris to Milan, how much do we really know about the London girl who has modelled for every famous fashionista in the business, from John Galliano to Calvin Klein? Fashion London flicks through her rare interview archives to highlight moments of the career and life of the mysterious Moss. While now it seems that the up and coming faces of the modelling world populate the boulevards and beaches of Los Angeles or New York, Moss is one of Britain’s most successful exports, having taken her early fashion inspiration from her home borough of Croydon. “My mother would say ‘You’re not going out like that. Don’t walk down the street smoking, don’t wear ankle straps, don’t have a side ponytail,’” she told Vanity Fair in 2012. “In Croydon, if you had those you were common – but that’s all I wanted, because the cool girls had that.”

But if the fact remained that few in the modelling world would consider a trip to Croydon as essential to discovering the next queen of the catwalk, it was her intrinsic difference from the status quo that made Moss an instant hit. In almost every way, Moss was the opposite of the model ideal – at 5’ 7”, with crooked teeth, the teenager was, as John Galliano once described her, “a rough little diamond”. Her unique appearance became the perfect canvas on which photographers and fashionistas could push the boundaries of acceptability. One of the first campaigns that propelled Moss to the forefront of cuttingedge fashion was for Calvin Klein Obsession, shot by her then boyfriend Mario Sorrenti. “It really was an obsession,” Moss told ShowStudio last year, as part of their Subjective series. “I’d wake up in the morning and he’d be taking pictures of me. He would not stop taking pictures.” Not for the first time, the overpowering allure of Moss’ ethereal qualities may have entranced Sorrenti, but it led to the pair splitting shortly after the Obsession shoot. “They rented us a house, just me and him

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FashionLondon EDIT

and loads of film,” she recalled. “We split up after that. When you’re in a relationship with a photographer and they start abusing that relationship – being like ‘I want you to do this, I want you to do that’ – it makes you go ‘No’. Now I understand that kind of thing better, but at the time I was 17.” Around the same time, Moss’ status as muse to photographer Corinne Day courted controversy and stoked the fires of tabloid outrage. Day’s “Under Exposed” shoot for Vogue depicted a semi-naked teenage Moss slumming it in the comforting squalor of her shared flat. It was unprecedented and raw; the shoot invited accusations of exploitation and coined the term ‘heroin chic’ and, like Sorrenti’s obsessive shoots, was a less than relaxing experience for the young Moss. “Corinne Day was something of a bully, as well as a perfectionist, and the shoots would

last for days, sometimes weeks,” said Moss to Vanity Fair. “I see a 16-year-old now, and to ask her to take her clothes off would feel really weird. But they were like, ‘If you don’t do it, then we’re not going to book you again.’ So I’d lock myself in the toilet and cry and then come out and do it. I never felt very comfortable about it.” The title ‘heroin chic’ may have been later dismissed as factually inaccurate by Moss – “I had never even taken heroin,” she told Vanity Fair. “It was nothing to do with me at all” – but the Vogue shoot served only to further differentiate the Brit. Her lithe, ‘waif-like’ frame was the opposite of the supermodels such as Naomi Campbell who, at the time, ruled the catwalk. Moss was at the core of the debate surrounding ‘size zero’ models and anorexia, no doubt due to the immortalisation of a quip delivered during a 2009 interview with Fashion magazine WWD: “Nothing

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FashionLondon EDIT

Now I understand that kind of thing better, but at the time I was 17

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FashionLondon EDIT tastes as good as skinny feels.” Moss’ depiction as the punk-rock paragon to which fashion dissidents like Galliano and McQueen paid eternal tribute was somewhat marred by the paparazzi’s desire to catch her in her fabled ‘wild child’ act. During her tumultuous romance with The Libertines’ frontman Pete Doherty in 2005, Moss was snapped with what appeared to be cocaine – casting doubt on her already perilous position as the public persona associated with some of the world’s biggest brands. Twelve months later, she had signed contracts with Rimmel, Burberry and Calvin Klein among others. Over a decade on, the subtle suggestion of cigarette smoke and substance abuse still clings piecemeal to every mention of Moss’ modelling ascension, and the 42-year-old is no less immortalised or revered. This longevity stands as a testament to her inherent elusiveness, despite her exposure – Moss has always held the talent to be guarded and private, while her job made every inch of her physical frame constantly available to the camera. As Moss herself explained in a 1999 interview, “I don’t like doing pictures as myself. I like to be made into someone else.” Nowadays, Moss glides above the tabloid silt that threatened to end her career. She recently returned to Calvin Klein alongside modern modelling megastars like Kendall

I don’t like doing pictures as myself. I like to be made into someone else.” Jenner and Bella Hadid; no longer the chaotic young pretender, but rather the elder stateswoman of beauty, a legend in the fashion world, and a mother to boot. “All these years, she hasn’t spoken, she hasn’t done interviews, and so we know her from the image,” famed art director and editor Fabien Baron once told The New York Times. “But it’s the imagery of characters she’s playing. It’s not her.” And while images of Moss will resonate as a dream for many aspiring young women, they conceal the irony that lies behind the British beauty’s enduring success. For, although she made her living at the mercy of the camera’s lens, Moss has been, and always will be, uninterpretable on anybody’s terms but her own. FashionLondon 16


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Inspiring City London. It's breathtaking architecture shines above us whilst our city keeps churning out a breadth of talented designers. We therefore chose to explore in this issue the prominent relationship between fashion and architecture....

Photographer:

Vanya Dickens Model:

Hannah Wiklund (First Model Management) Stylist:

Rhona Ezuma Make up:

Hanane Dauki Stylist assistant:

Tsvetina Georgieva Photography assistant:

Tsvelina Yordanova Venue:

Santa Monica at Skylounge

FashionLondon 18


Venue: Santa Monica at Skylounge FashionLondon 19


Venue: Santa Monica at Skylounge FashionLondon 20


Venue: Santa Monica at Skylounge FashionLondon 21


Venue: Santa Monica at Skylounge FashionLondon 22


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Navy print shirt £120 KINGS OF INDIGO, Red suit jacket £410 SABINNA, Red suit trousers £135 SABINNA, Silver diamond shaped African Spirit earrings £110 MARIELLA PILATO, Pointed kitten heels £272 PAUL ANDREW

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Gold jumpsuit £280 RAHIMA MOHAMED COUTURE, Sphere shaped earrings £POR MARIELLA PILATO, Pointed kitten heels £272 PAUL ANDREW

Stockists:

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Image 2

Mesh and silk dress, £POR SHAO YEN, Circular shaped earrings £POR MARIELLA PILATO, Pointed kitten heels £272 PAUL ANDREW

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Image 4

Cross over top £50 RASCALS, Black flare sports pants £50 RASCALS, Black and white contrast jacket £400 INNOCENT MESSY, Light asymmetry earrings £135 MARIELLA PILATO, Pointed kitten heels £272 PAULANDREW

Kings Of Indigo Bad Denim

Paul Andrew www.farfetch.com

Sabinna - www.sabinna.com

Mariella Pilato www.mariellapilato.com

Rahima Mohamed Couture www.raaah.com

Shao Yen www.shao-yen.com

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Rascals - Topshop


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FashionLondon Trend

Trend of the moment by Mark Cullum

Check Yourself This year’s checks are bigger and bolder and so are the clothes you’ll find them on. Oversized coats are a must-have this season as the fashion industry predicts icier times ahead. For the guys who like to be free and easy, baggy trousers offer something a little different with tailored options for the modern man. Keep it casual with these day looks – perfect for when you’re out and about in the city or after-work drinks with friends.

Ermenegildo Zegna Couture £395

Burberry Prorsum AW16

Add a sporting edge to this look with Paul Smith’s striped roll-neck sweater.

Etro at Mr Porter £1,340

Paul Smith at Harvey Nichols £195

Topman Design

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Turnbull & Asser X Larke £295


FashionLondon Trend

These sub-linen cropped trousers are perfect for modern style and comfort.

Orlebar Brown £195

Clarks £90

Jaeger £99

Super Future

Teatum Jones at Harvey Nichols £950

Clarks £80

By Walid at Mr Porter £500

Stride into the autumn season with a look that is bold, yet minimal, and with a futuristic edge. Think Superwoman in disguise as the changing season embraces a darker edge with sleek and sultry separates. Metallic features, shoes and accessories give this trend its ultramodern vibe, while the apparel remains ultimately timeless. These strong evening looks are perfect for the party season as we swap the outdoors for cocktail bars and London’s finest new restaurants.

Mawi choker £425

Opt for clean lines or even printed lines a la Burberry Prorsum’s striking coat.

The 7962 £149.99

The 7962 £84.99

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Burberry Prorsum PF16


FashionLondon Trend

This sculpted clutch has all the super-future power to bring this look together.

Alexander Wang at Harvey Nichols £705

Jill Haber at Harvey Nichols £760 Grace and Oliver £349

Compoir des Cotonniers

FashionLondon promotion

FashionLondon 28


FashionLondon edit

THE

LIGHT

AND

THE DARK

OF CARA DELEVINGNE

By Karen Anne Overton

FashionLondon 30


FashionLondon edit

When it was first announced that socialite supermodel Cara Delevingne was turning her hand to acting, it probably triggered a few eye rolls and murmurs of ‘not another model who thinks she can act…’ But her critics were silenced when it transpired that not only can the 24-year-old dazzle in front of a camera, she can hold her own among a cast of Hollywood giants.

After twice winning the highly coveted title of ‘Model of the Year’, fronting every campaign from Burberry to YSL and counting Karl Lagerfeld among her besties, London-born supermodel Cara Delevingne (who we featured a year or so ago) has now stepped off the catwalk and set her heart firmly on Hollywood. As one of our favourite supermodels we couldn’t resist featuring her again, but this time to take a look at her move away from modelling and the progression of this stunning young women’s life….

Following breakout roles in John Green’s romantic mystery Paper Towns, and a spell as a mermaid in the mythical adventure Pan, Delevingne took on her biggest role yet in this year’s highly-anticipated Suicide Squad. In the DC Comics super-villain flick, a secret government agency must recruit some of the most dangerous incarcerated criminals alive to form a defensive task force, including Jared Leto as the infamous Joker and Margot Robbie as his gorgeous yet demented girlfriend, Harley Quinn. Portraying the dual role of preppy archaeologist June Moone and an ancient demonic witch named Enchantress, Queen Delevingne revelled in the opportunity to play not just one, but two fascinating characters. “I was an imaginative child, I loved witches and monsters and supernatural stuff, so this was living out a fantasy, casting spells and curses on people, controlling magic with my hands with an intense stare,” says the beauty. “And then I had the advantage of being able to contrast all that crazy, supernatural force with June Moone’s very human side. It really couldn’t have been a more perfect role.” With her metallic moon-shaped headpiece

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FashionLondon edit

and many mythical charms and talisman, the Enchantress is already nailing this autumn’s Gothic revival trend. She is also covered in tribal tattoos, which took almost three hours to apply in make-up every day and lend Delevingne’s naturally ethereal and youthful beauty a darker and more sinister feel. In contrast, her co-star Margot Robbie is a neon teen-dream-turned-nightmare in studded leather, an undersized retro T that reads ‘Daddy’s Lil’ Monster’ and wielding a baseball bat. Though they play enemies onscreen in real life, they are thick as thieves with Delevingne referring to Robbie and co-star Karen Fukuhara as ‘my girls’. “Don’t get me wrong, I adore all the guys

so much, but yeah it was lovely to bond and connect with the girls, especially as we were all playing equally badass women who don’t take any sh*t. That was so much fun,” gushes the star. “We were able to let loose and freak out and be really strong and let’s be honest, there haven’t been that many examples of that in comic book movies.” For the promo tour of her blockbuster breakthrough, Delevingne took the opportunity to dazzle in an array of superb outfits. From a sheer mini dress teamed with a leather jacket and thigh-high Louboutins for the London premiere, to a backless Anthony Vaccarello gown in New York, it was a non-stop parade of gorgeous, punk-inspired

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FashionLondon edit

glamour. But the greatest fashion statement came in a moment of down-time when she and Robbie stepped out in matching, black satin ‘SKWAD’ tracksuits, custom-made for them by London-based brand Chaos, paired with monochrome Buscemi trainers. It’s reassuring to see that Delevingne’s free-spirited and unique sense of humour has not been hampered by her transition to cinema. Since her fashion debut, in the Mario Testino-shot 2012 Burberry campaign, the star has carved her own niche, insisting that she “stand for not being a model” and breaking the stereotypical perception of being a dour, pouty mannequin, with her good friend Karl Lagerfeld even telling Vogue:

“She’s a character. She’s the Charlie Chaplin of the fashion world.” But her carefree attitude has occasionally landed her in hot water; like the time a day-long interview for US Vogue was cut short when the model fell asleep, or when she professed her undying love for bacon and got the word tattooed on her foot – and not forgetting her reputation for taking backstage antics to a new level: pulling funny faces in pre-show pictures and generally goofing around. There is certainly more to Delevingne than meets the eye, and when she recently confessed to suffering bouts of depression ever since she was a teenager, it becomes clear that behind the fun and childlike persona she

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FashionLondon edit has so carefully cultivated, there is a fragile young woman who is doing her best to cope with the fame and privilege thrust upon her. These days, Delevingne is calmer and happier. She has quit modelling and found in acting a form of therapy, particularly in playing the Enchantress which gave her “the welcome opportunity to exorcise her inner demon” and “have a bloody good time in the process”. Another stabilising presence in her life has been her girlfriend, musician Annie Clark (aka St. Vincent). At the Burberry Prorsum SS16 London Fashion Week show, the couple, rocking head-to-toe Burberry, were snapped looking very much in love in the front row and there are rumours that they are planning to marry. “I’m completely in love… Before, I didn’t know what love was – real love,” she told Vogue. “I didn’t understand the depth of it. I always used to think it was you against the world. Now I know the meaning of life is love, whether that’s for yourself or for the world or your partner.” Next year, Delevingne will take her film career to dizzy new heights when she stars in the epic-sounding sci-fi Valerian and The City of a Thousand Planets, and will doubtless expand her burgeoning ‘SKWAD’ which currently includes everyone from Rihanna to Taylor Swift and Karlie Kloss. For whether she is considered ‘socialite’, ‘supermodel’ or ‘actress’ she is, first and foremost, adored.

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FashionLondon edit

I’m completely in love... Before, I didn’t know what love was – real love

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beaut iful

FashionLondon promotion

Fashion’s 1. Boudoir des Lubies Boudoir des Lubies is a French luxury brand for design & accessories. The collections are designed by Myra Taguelmint, architect and designer. Myra gets her inspiration from architectural details. Featured here is the clutch Babylone pink croco. View her collections at www.boudoirdeslubies.com

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Bayram TARAKCI photography

3. KC Malhan This muted silver clutch is the perfect transition piece to take you into fall. Featuring elaborate bead, sequin and pattern detail, pair with skinny jeans to introduce a touch of glamour into a casual ensemble or style it up with a cocktail dress. www.kcmalhan.com

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4. Jody Bell Described as a modern day Mary Quant, Jody Bell has captured the spirit of the swinging 60’s and blended in the colours and culture of the Mediterranean for a truly inspiring SS17 collection unveiled at New York Fashion Week. www.jodybellofficial.com

5. Beautifully Petite

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When petite isn›t petite enough…..An independent fashion brand specialising in beautiful leggings and jersey trousers for 5”0’ body frames. Sidestep hemming and step into quality fabric featuring bold patterns and chic designs! Find your perfect fit at BeautifullyPetite.com

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7. Kashka An exciting new jewellery brand made entirely from ethically sourced silver. Their beautiful designs are all handmade in the UK and each piece is utterly unique, and can be personalised with bespoke hand-engravings. Do good as well as look good by buying Kashka. www.kashka.co.uk. FashionLondon 36

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Fashionable men FashionLondon promotion

1. Uunique

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Introducing stylishly designed Uunique Freedom True Wireless Bluetooth® Ear Buds & Charging Station. With A2DP connection profiling which allows total wireless control with pure audio clarity. Featuring an integrated intelligent chip set which automatically adapts to different music genres for an advanced listening experience. www.uunique.uk.com/freedom_landing_page/Main/ index-video.html

2. Steel & Jelly

Be bold this autumn/winter with Steel & Jelly’s new range of limited edition shirts. Shop the new collection online at www.steelandjelly.com. Shirt £45, chinos £45.

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3. Kitsound

Take music with you wherever you go with outstanding KitSound Clash Evo Bluetooth headphones and hardshell carry case. Easy to store in luggage, the 40mm drivers create unforgettable audio. With up to 12 hours play time you can listen even on long flights. www.kitsound.co.uk RRP £75

4. Paolo Vandini

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Modishly contemporary Pymoor zipped ankle boots from Paolo Vandini available now in Black, Brown and Dk Brown burnished leather. Use discount code LFPYMOOR16 for 20% discount on this style and many more online at www.vandinishoes.com or call Sales on 0207 739 0398.

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5. Nelti Creations

Nelti Creations is a young and urban British brand influenced by French culture. The “Frenglish” concept is the philosophy which inspires their collections. All their clothes feature combined French/English slogans, reflecting the perfect marriage of English culture and Parisian chic. www.nelticreations.com

6. Focus Man

Launched in 2016 by menswear fashion stylist, Sean Azeez-Bright, Focus Man is an online store selling great quality men’s essentials across clothing, footwear and accessories from a range of independent, emerging and established international designers and brands. www.focusmanfashion.com

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7. Alluvian

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Unique and refined, each shaving brush is handmade using American hardwood and the finest silvertip badger hair. Revel in the feel of the wood handle, weight of the brush, and softness of the badger hair. $68.00USD Visit www.alluvian.co

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8. Carpenter Watches

Inspired by the local vernacular of Park Slope, Brooklyn, the Carpenter Field draws its inspiration from its early 20th century ancestors. Modest, utilitarian and all excessive ornamentation has been eliminated to optimize legibility. View the full collection at www.carpenterwatches.com T H E C A R P E N T E R A U T O M AT I C F I E L D - WAT C H WWW. C A R P E N T E R WAT C H E S . C O M

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FashionLondon style

Fashion favourites Velvet Wonderland by Abi Adeosun One of the key trends for this coming winter as seen on aw16 runway shows is Velvet. Styling this fabric can be tricky so we have listed a few modern items that take on the seasons’ trend in a fabulous way.

Jasper Conran at Debenhams www.debenhams.com £160.00

Velvet dinner jacket, BOSS Hugo Boss at www.julesb,co,uk £429.99

Tinie Tempah in Burberry Velvet Jacket (image credit: British Fashion Council press portal)

Ted Baker Crowsir Silk and Velvet Scarf www.psyche.co.uk £54.99

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FashionLondon style

Radley handbag www.radley.co.uk £199.00

HM Studio AW16 studio.hm.com (image: Jourdan Dunn)

Navy Velvet Quilt Skirt www.dorothyperkins.com £35.00

www.modainpelle.com £119.95

Velvet Sequin Dress www.monsoon.co.uk £119.00

FashionLondon 39


FashionLondon economy

by Abi Adeosun

Fashion and the Economy

Can the global fashion supply chain survive Brexit?

Barbour

FashionLondon 40


FashionLondon economy

Barbour

Once Brexit has been fully achieved, it could jeopardise design talent and retailers within the global marketplace forever. Whatever side of the debate you stand, the decision made by majority vote for the United Kingdom to exit the European Union is one that will affect you. After a dramatic immediate response from the global financial markets to Brexit (“British Exit”), the actual effects are yet to be fully seen. Business leaders have been scanning the markets and getting their business structures in order to weather the changing economy. For the fashion industry, the value of the Pound sterling (which has since been on daily watch by financial analysts) has already been effected. The way we manufacture, buy and consume fashion in the UK is set to change from now on as a result of the decision to exit the European Union. How can we prepare for this, and what can we expect in the near future? Whether we look at the luxury fashion market or the high street retail market, the UK Fashion industry is massive. FT.com reports that the fashion industry directly contributed £28bn to the UK’s economy in 2015 and employed 880,000 in roles from manufacturing to retail. It is thought that many British designers and stores will be hit by an immediate effect on costs and margins. Once Brexit has been fully achieved, it could

jeopardise design talent and retailers within the global marketplace forever. Why would not being a member of the European Union be a threat to the growth of the British fashion industry? According to Business of Fashion Report the luxury fashion market has already seen a 48% drop as a result of the Pound hitting a record 30 year low in value. However, in the short term, the fall in the value of the Pound against the Euro and the Dollar can seem like good news where retailers have attracted tourists and therefore enjoyed a sales increase. For example, Harrods reported a strong start to its summer sale. One of the main issues we face is that the fashion industry in the UK is greatly dependant on a global supply chain where materials are sourced from various places, and manufacturing is performed by staff in other countries. According to a report by just-style. com the cost of raw materials will have a negative effect on smaller businesses; smaller companies are often forced to have their products manufactured abroad – and in doing so it will become more expensive. However, recent reports including one from CityAM business report puts a positive spin on the

FashionLondon 41


FashionLondon economy

"snuggledown" PRShots

“rebounding” British manufacturing industry. It states that the UK’s manufacturing sector exceeded expectations for August 2016 and claims that manufacturers are weathering the Brexit storm better than the Eurozone. The UK Fashion and Textile association; the UK voice and meeting place for suppliers of fashion & textiles, who provide practical support, expert advice, information exchange and a voice, have been working closely with the UK Government to ensure that the needs of the fashion and textile industry are an important consideration in the forthcoming negotiations over the UK’s exit from the EU. Their recent survey will provide an opportunity for the Government to consider all the concerns raised by key members of the fashion industry.

Despite all of the effect so far of Brexit on the UK fashion industry, and the weakening of the Pound, having time to prepare for the inevitable split from the European Union, Brexit seems so far to be working in the industry’s favour. We believe the talent of UK designers will continue to remain strong. A lot of work has been carried out over the years by various organisations including The British Fashion Council to develop the fashion industry in the UK and raise the profile of home grown talent. The UK has seen incredible emerging talent over the years, and with thanks to organisations such as The British Council and UK Fashion and Trade, plus the general passion encompassed with dedication of the fashion industry, it will take more than Brexit to weaken us in the global market.

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FashionLondon promotion

Quintessentially 1

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brit ish 1. EG Chauffeurs

A highly professional chauffeur company using luxury and prestige cars. With an exceptionally reliable team they provide a superb level of service for HNWI, large corporations and VIP’s throughout the UK for business or leisure travel. 10 % off with LF10. www.egchauffeurs.com +44 (0) 207 117 2905

2. Young Soles

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Young Soles is an award-winning luxury children’s footwear brand for boys and girls from baby to junior. Blending retro-cool with British heritage styles that complement a variety of outfits, your child will look and feel like the coolest kid around. www.youngsoles.co.uk

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3. Get Smooth

Get Smooth delivers bespoke barbering services across London directly to your home, office or hotel. Their barbers are hand-picked and highly skilled, providing quality services at your convenience. Enter the promo code Fashion50 for 50% off your first service:  www.GetSmooth.co

4. Apples and Bears

A family owned and operated British company that produces luxury cosmetics and donates a percentage of profits towards Breast Cancer. Made from the finest organic natural ingredients, products are incredibly moistursing and naturally fragranced so that you feel the benefits. www.applesandbears.com

dining

Fashionable Café Pacifico

London’s original Mexican Cantina. Serving the best margaritas in town since 1982 with a friendly, caring service alongside homemade, healthy Mexican food. 20% off your bill when you quote FL! Not available in conjunction with other offers. www.cafe-pacifico.com FashionLondon 43


FashionLondon Technology

Fashion and Technology by Abi Adeosun

From crowdsource to catwalk: the new collaborative design trend Fashion Tech start-up AWAYTOMARS presented the world’s first fully co-created fashion collection at ModaLisboa / Lisbon Fashion Week earlier this year. They caught our attention due to their quite unusual concept of amalgamating fashion across the globe. The crowd-sourcing website is the world’s first 100% user-created fashion brand.

AWAY TO MARS

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FashionLondon Technology AWAY TO MARS

AWAY TO MARS

AWAY TO MARS

AWAY TO MARS

AWAY TO MARS

Founded in 2015, the company outsources the initial stages of the creative process to the general public who present online sketches and ideas which AWAYTOMARS iterates with the help of its online community to create eye-catching, collaborative fashion. Next, the brand works with technical experts to create physical prototypes, organises a crowdfunding campaign for each product, and oversees the entire production process of the fashion item which has been created. Finally, they host the finished item on their sales portal. AWAYTOMARS boasts a network of more than 2500 people from 90 countries, proving the concept has given many across the globe opportunity to see their own ideas for fashion products come to life. The brands new collection has been created by 446 people from 67 countries. Apart

way from sketch to shop. AWAYTOMARS ensures that community members are involved at every step of the design process: they decide what is ultimately produced. Compared to traditional methods of product development in the fashion industry, AWAYTOMARS is cost and time effective: there’s no seasonality, nor is there inventory piling up in the stock room. Production is based on what has been pre-sold during the crowdfunding campaigns.

from the joy of working together to create something beautiful, designers receive 20% of the value of the sales of their ideas and a further 10% goes to users who have helped to shape each one on its FashionLondon 45

AWAYTOMARS shows its second cocreated fashion collection at ModaLisboa this October. This movement of design, innovation and crowd participation in the fashion industry is a testament to the creative power of the collective. AWAYTOMARS www.awaytomars.com


FashionLondon Aid

by Abi Adeosun

Sustainable Fashion

New season’s bags that are easy on the environment

Garnet Totes Sand & Sage

The turning of the season represents change, which in the fashion world often equates to new purchases of fashion items. Whether it be necessities for school, university, or simply an extra fashion treat for that feel good feeling (particularly when the season sees a drop in temperature and sunlight hours) a new piece of fashion such as a bag is often a must. However, how often do you think about sustainability when making your bag choice? We have spotted a couple of very different, but both sustainable bag brands to introduce you to. Handbag designer AEVHA London use materials which are sustainably sourced. Who would think that materials made from FSC-certified prime grade recycled rosewood reclaimed by hand from old buildings could produce such stunning handbags? Founded by British designer Alice Horlick in 2013, AEVHA London bags have been seen in the hands of many celebrities including, Pippa Middleton, Jessica Biel, and Emma Roberts.

palette of soft occasion-wear colours: panna, sand, dove grey, dusky pink and sage. The label’s signature hand carved accessories come in three shapes for the season, comprising a consistent motif throughout. Structuralism underpins the season’s aesthetic formalising the texture of the collection’s medium grain calfskin, with three classic silhouettes embodying smart summer style.

The AEVHA London spring/summer 2017 collection sees the collision of natural organics with the brand’s customary vectored architectural shapes coming to life through a

The pieces range between £495 and £795 and are available at Wolf & Badger Notting Hill, Concept store in Chelsea and Kate Zhou in China.

FashionLondon 46


FashionLondon Aid

Carnelia Totes Pink & Panna

Helve & Clutch Panna

It seems that green is the new black as we admire the ultra-sustainability of the ReKånken rucksack. The new version of the original classic from Fjällräven is the brand’s most environmentally-friendly rucksack ever! It is made from 11 recycled plastic bottles and manufactured using an innovative SpinDye technology that radically reduces the amount of energy, water and chemicals used during the production process. Note that green comes in every colour as the new Re-Kanken rucksack is available in a rainbow of vibrant shades. Made from one

Helve & Clutch Pink & Sage

single yarn, it’s mono-material construction not only ensures that every aspect of the bag is perfectly colour-matched, but also futureproofs the bag for eventual recycling at the end of its (long) life. Whether starting college, university or even for tackling the daily London commute, carry your belongings in conscientious style this season with this environmentally friendly classic rucksack. For more about the new Re-Kanken visit: www.fjallraven.co.uk.

Re-Kanken in Green & Grey

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FashionLondon urban

Urban FashioN What’s your Swatch? By Abi Adeosun

Fresh from the Rio 2016 Olympic Games in Brazil with the exuberant, colour-happy ss16 collection, classic watch brand Swatch launched their aw16 collection. Here at Fashion London we couldn’t help but notice the many colourful varieties on offer, where each watch has a story and a character of its own. There’s certainly no need to check your mobile phone for the time when you can show off a Swatch from the aw16 collection on your wrist!

Images: Swatch

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FashionLondon urban

Archi-Mix

Gruezi All

Es war zweimal

Described by Swatch as the living look-book where everybody can find their own super hero for their story, the Archi-Mix collection gives you a rainbow choice of colours. Whether you opt for all white with a silver clock face, the pink and yellow straps, the red and blue resembling superman, or a colour simply to match what you’re wearing, the bright block colours will make you feel like an urban super hero.

The quirky detachable cuckoo clock in the Gruezi Ali collection stands out and makes a statement piece to compliment any outfit. Alternatively, the minimalist “snow” watch may be more understated but it certainly oozes urban cool.

Reminisce about your favourite childhood stories with these wearable storybooks that are designed to look like famous fairy-tales. One of the watches in the collection is carefully crafted with images of The Three Little Pigs. Another is made with a picture of the Little Red Riding Hood. However, you won’t find a big bad wolf in this happy ending, only fashionable fun!

Magies d’Hiver

Voice of Freedom

Look Fab

Decorate your wrist with the Magies d’Hiver collection. We are spoilt for choice here. The watch straps in an array of colours and patterns from grey or red camouflage to smart tartan or paisley print were designed to camouflage with the interior design of a stately home, but will do just as well to match any outfit choice.

This limited edition collection by Swatch represents individuality, the voice and the wild child in each of us. Each watch is a different design and uniquely decorated. The freedom to create a look oozing individuality confirms that everybody is a limited edition of one. “Free to be” is a Swatch life philosophy, and the “Voice of Freedom” watches are its mouth piece.

We always love to ‘’look fab” and absolutely will with the “Look Fab” collection of watches by Swatch. The glamourous dress watches in silver, gold, pink, black or diamante add a sparkle to winter fashion wear that will take you through the festive season and beyond.

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FashionLondon EDIT

Enjoy London, enjoy fashion, enjoy London Fashion Week (LFW) The September Fashion Week 2016 keeps buyers and press busy in the city as they go from catwalk to catwalk to catch the top designer shows. There are many ways for the public to get involved in the week long trade event; from digital engagement to events across the city. We have listed a few which we hope to see continue for future London Fashion Weeks.

Carnaby

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FashionLondon EDIT

Carnaby

• The brand new British Fashion Council @LondonFashionWeek Instagram account premiering Live Stories at LFW with brands and sponsors. • LFW was the first fashion week to create a digital schedule live streaming the catwalk shows on the schedule. You can watch the live shows for each event on www.londonfashionweek.com/live

• London Fashion Week is on the big screen and nationwide! You can catch highlights of the runway shows at 20 outdoor screens across Birmingham, Glasgow, Leeds, Liverpool, London, Manchester and Newcastle on screens provided by Ocean Outdoor. • Enjoy fashion at the Art gallery. The British Fashion Council are now hosting designer

FashionLondon 53


FashionLondon EDIT MERGE ZA

collections shows at London Fashion Weekend, the biannual shopping event. Guests for September 2016 include; designers Sophia Webster and Patrick Grant and fashion editor Lucy Walker, as well as presentations on the digital fashion era and how to get a career in fashion. Model Daisy Lowe is the official ambassador for London Fashion Weekend September 2016. www. londonfashionweekend.co.uk • After the Burberry catwalk show on Friday 19th September Burberry launch a partnership with The New Craftsmen at Makers House located at 1 Manette St in Soho. Open to visitors from 21st – 27th September, the new Burberry womenswear and menswear collections will also be on display as well as exclusive in-conversations and live Burberry Acoustic music performances. www. uk.burberry.com/londonfashion-week/septembershow/makers-house • Enjoy the Fashion festivities on Carnaby street! A host of activities celebrating LFW from live streaming shows on its big screen to workshops, special experiences and offers in stores, as well as free beauty treatments in the Carnaby Pampervan parked up on Ganton Street throughout Fashion Week. For full listings visit: www.carnaby. co.uk/news-and-events/ carnaby-london-fashion-week • During LFW MERGE ZA host an inaugural showroom to exhibit five of South Africa’s leading designers: Rich Mnisi, Lukhanyo Mdingi, SELFI, Wanda LePhoto and Young & Lazy. The showroom, offers buyers, press and the public viewing. www.mergeza.co

Carnaby

FashionLondon 54

• Luxury e-tailer THE OUTNET.com celebrates the personal style of visitors at a hub of light and colour. Entitled #LightUpTheRoom, this immersive experience in the heart of Soho gives participants the unique opportunity to express their personal style through the mediums of light and colour.


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FashionLondon aid

by Kerry Law

TOMS footwear

One for me, and one for you! The footwear brands taking big steps for charity We’ve all heard of the supermarket ‘BOGOF’ (‘Buy one, get one free’) schemes, but have you heard of the model for the conscientious shopper that’s hot in footwear? Over the summer we became drawn to ‘Buy one, give one free’ shoes. This charitable fashion ‘BOGOF’ – or ‘one for one’ for short – initiative is being embraced by footwear brands. Instead of the more traditional model of donating a percentage of profits to charity, ‘one for one’ models mean that for every pair of shoes bought, the brand gives a pair to someone somewhere in the world who is in need.

Emma 'Hope' by Roma Boots

Arguably, one of the most well-known pioneers of this model is footwear brand TOMS. Their canvas espadrilles, sandals, boots and brogues have been improving lives for people in developing countries for years. Starting out as a straight forward ‘one for one’ model – every pair of shoes sold means a pair of shoes is given to a child in need. To date, they have donated over 60 million pairs of shoes in over 70 countries around the world, reaching more than 35 million people across five continents. These brand new shoes are made-to-order and include styles such as slip-ons, sports shoes, boots and locallymade shoes (the latter of which provides fairly-paid work for local people) and footwear Emma Sadie 'Floral' by Roma Boots FashionLondon 56


FashionLondon aid

Men's brogues by TOMS

Brogue boots by TOMS

Leila Boots by TOMS

for every pair of shoes bought, the brand gives a pair to someone somewhere in the world who is in need

Classic 'Plum' Roma Boots

suitable for school and play providing for toddlers through to teenagers.

Roma Boots charity work

range; birth care and support to help reduce risks for new mothers and babies via its TOMS bags range; and water systems via its TOMS Roasting Company.

children in communities, often rural, around the country. School supplies are also donated with the boots to help support a more sustainable future.

Don’t make the mistake of thinking TOMS is now a past season summer brand – their boots, brogues and trainers are perfect for Roma’s rubber boots are perfect for a rainy The ‘buy one, give one’ fashion model is also the colder, wetter months. For men the British climate and are an autumn/winter central to US footwear brand Roma Boots popular West Coast-influenced Ash essential! Choose from the bright and where for every pair sold, a brand Aviator Twill Brogues are back in bold ‘Emma Floral’ or magenta, new pair is given to stock (£69.99). And as if the orange and purple colours; the ‘one for one’ concept wasn’t best-selling lace-up boots generous enough, TOMS ‘Epaga Camo’; or the classic have now teamed up with ‘Emma Black’. Currently, National Geographic to Roma Boots are only raise awareness of their available to purchase in work through the Big the US (you can order Cats Collection – we love online via sites such as the vegan Nat Geo Lion Amazon) but customer Women's Alpargata Women's Del Rey Paseo Sneakers (£54.99) demand could see them by TOMS trainers by TOMS with lion image lining! The reaching into UK outlets, so women’s range features Felt Shine if you like what you see, let them a child living in a cold, Boucle Leila Booties (£67.99) and some know! This is a brand we would like to wet climate. Roma was founded in 2010 flash looking Rose Gold Leather Jutti Flats see more of in London… by Romanian-born Samuel Bistrian after (£55.49). years of seeing impoverished children roam So let’s see you fashion conscientious crowds Romania’s mud or snow-covered streets in TOMS has recently expanded on its simple kick up the autumn leaves in your brand new broken shoes or even bare feet. Now, Roma ‘one for one’ model by donating tangible ‘one for one’ shoes this season! Rest assured arranges quarterly ‘boot drops’ with NGOs in support through its other lines – medical eye that someone not as fortunate is taking a care via purchases from its TOMS glasses Romania, directly distributing new wellies to walk in their new shoes too… FashionLondon 57


FashionLondon promotion

The return of the 90s super brand Kappa As the brand celebrates its 100th year, we take a look at the infamous brands past, present and future

FashionLondon 58


FashionLondon promotion

resurgence – it looks set that KAPPA is next on the list.

Celebrating its 100 year anniversary, KAPPA is back storming the UK fashion market. The Italian brand, originally set up as a sock and underwear company in 1916, launched into the sportswear industry in the 1960's from the inspiration of the sportswear movement. In the same decade, the iconic Omini logo of a male and female back-to-back silhouette was born, giving the brand new identity and asserted power into the sportswear sector.

More recently, the brand found itself in front of Europe’s fashion elite when Gosha Rubchinskly brought back the brand. “Commercially the Gosha collaboration has been a real step in the right direction for KAPPA,” explains Jane Wright of KAPPA UK, “The resurgence of sportswear on the catwalk through collaborations works really well for us. It raises our profile and creates an awareness that we are back, with retailers wanting now to get involved with the brand. The Archive pieces have been brought back seeing the re-introduction of the classic popper pant and track tops.”

With KAPPA already on the rise, the brand looked at sports like football making its way to the English Premier League, while also setting foot across the Atlantic and sponsoring the US Olympic Track and Field team for the 1984 Olympics in Los Angeles, California. Throughout the 90s and early 00s the brand was used as a symbol outside of the sporting arena donned by the Spice Girls to Brit Pop heavyweights like Blur to Hip Hop legends alike. The heritage that the brand had created for itself was undeniable.

Fast forward to 2016, 100 years after its debut, KAPPA has returned. With the trend

of vintage sportswear giants returning (see Fila, Champion, Reebok) and experiencing

FashionLondon 59

Mixing styles, materials, and colours, the brand believes that “difference enriches us, boundaries can always be pushed further and conventions are there to be challenged.” And that’s why KAPPA has chosen to showcase diversity through its collections. One thing is for sure; the return of KAPPA is imminent.


FashionLondon style

Style in Motion

Around the world in fashion days

Vivienne Westwood AW16, FOH (Shuan James Cox)

In just under one month the fashion world travels through Europe and crosses the Atlantic for the bi-annual events that we know and love. Yes, of course, it has to be those renowned Fashion Weeks across the globe - New York, London, Paris and Milan. Known as the “big four”, these events have presented us with daring designs, innovative creations, beautiful clothes and forward thinking fashion shows since the 1950’s. We take a brief glance at the renowned ‘’big four’’…

NYFW (Intel)

7th September 2016 – 14th September 2016: New York Fashion Week

by Abi Adesoun

NYFW was the world’s first organised week of fashion. Created in 1943 by Eleanor Lambert, press director of the American fashion industry’s first promotional organisation, the New York Dress Institute. The event was called “Press Week”, and was created to attract attention away from French fashion during World War II. NYFW is well known for championing sportswear and sports luxe.

NYFW (Intel)

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www.myshreddies.com

01509 610610


FashionLondon style

House of Holland AW16, FOH (Kensington Leverne, British Fashion Council)

LFW

16th September 2016 – 20th September 2016: London Fashion Week

MFW

21st September 2016 – 22nd September 2016: Milan Fashion Week

PFW

27th September 2016 – 5th October 2016: Paris Fashion Week

From New York to London. The youngest of the ‘’big four’’, but by no means the least, the event is organised by the British Fashion Council with support from the London Development Agency and the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills. First taking place in 1984, today LFW is attended by more than 5,000 press and buyers, and exceeds coverage of most major news and worldwide sports events. Pringle of Scotland AW16 Backstage (Eeva Rinne, British Fashion Council)

Victor and Rof AW16 Couture

Next on the agenda is Milan to experience some Italian drama and incredibly luxurious designs. Established in 1958 and owned by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber of Italian Fashion) MFW is dedicated to both men and women’s fashion. MFW presents to us superb brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Versace, Prada, Cavalli and Alberta Ferretti, amongst many others.

To end these fashionable few weeks, we head to Paris for a fabulous serving of Haute Couture. The term Haute Couture is protected in France so that only the very few fashion houses that meet the strict criteria can claim to have Haute Couture collections. Founded in 1973 and organised by the French Fashion Federation the event showcases top French designers’ collections such as Chanel, Givenchy and Christian Dior. In true Parisian style, PFW shows the fashion industry what’s hot as well as what is not...

Tommy Hilfiger

Inspired by the "big four" Fashion Weeks, let’s not forget the many other Fashion Weeks around the world showcasing great designs by hard working and dedicated designers; Africa Fashion Week, Berlin Fashion Week, Pakistan Fashion Week and many more. We predict a significant growth of Fashion Weeks around the world in the coming years, and look forward to those further countries sharing with the fashion world their unique designs.

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HUGOBOSS.COM


FashionLondon edit All images from the designer

Express

your

many

sides

in

style

by Abi Adeosun The Many Sides is a new, small, London based online fashion platform showcasing contemporary fashion. With her own label on the site, owner and designer Rita Sheth veered away from the corporate path of her career in law to pursue fashion. She aims to encourage women to have fun with fashion and take a few risks on their journey to discovering all their many sides. Based on “effortless elegance mixed with a touch of

rebellion,“ The Many Sides is an evolving capsule of go-to ‘unclassic classic’ favourites - distinctive, contemporary pieces that are also incredibly easy to wear. The emerging independent designers on the platform come from all over the world with carefully handpicked pieces. Creative and inspiring, they all offer a truly unique one of a kind product. We met with the designer who told us more about her concept….

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FashionLondon edit So you are a lawyer and a fashion entrepreneur! What inspired you to start a fashion business?

massive part of the business and what keeps me excited and moving forward. For the last two years I haven’t had much opportunity for that! I would eventually also like to branch out and develop other ranges once this line is established, so it will be a busy time I am sure.’’

“I actually started pretty spontaneously and randomly. I felt there was a lack of clothing that I liked that was versatile enough and catered to me as a certain type of woman in her thirties; creative and with many sides but with a corporate job. It was really difficult to find and especially for that age range, as you go from your twenties to thirties, which is quite a transitional period. I found I still wanted to be different but also be comfortable and elegant and wear really well fitted flattering clothes. I guess, like many designers, I ended up designing a range that I would wear and that could take you through all these different contexts.’’

Fashion London encourages brands and designers to use healthier sized models on the runway, what are your thoughts? “It’s a really difficult issue and ultimately there needs to be willingness from the brands to take a risk and depart from what is the fashion industry’s notion of beauty. I design from the viewpoint of what I would wear comfort is really important! I also used a 5’6“ model as most women around the world are shorter than 5’10“. I tried to achieve a balance between what is real and what is ‘fashion’. However, you can never please everyone and views will vary from brand to brand. In the

Who are your favourite designers? “I have lots. I really like emerging designers

collection which is great. We exhibited at Pure this year and had lots of positive feedback, including from buyers. People that had been following us came to say “Hi“ – it’s really encouraging. I am in design mode again for the next two collections which is

I design from the viewpoint of what I would wear really exciting because I am more comfortable with the process and am looking forward to developing the range and the brand. I am also preparing to travel and blog more as collecting daily inspiration is just such a future if my collection calls for a larger or smaller model I will be true to that too.’’

and started off by selling other designers from around the world (which I still make space to do on the website). The craftsmanship of designers like Yohan Kim from South Korea is amazing and so different from what I design. Contemporary designers are also really killing it and there is so much more appetite for them right now - brands like Self Portrait and Sacai. In terms of more established designers I always want to see what McQueen does and The Row. There are so many different viewpoints in fashion which is really exciting. In terms of inspiration I think I am most inspired by the environment around me, buildings, people and moods. I am a London girl, so urban life to me is very inspiring and kind of central to where I draw my inspiration.’’

What do you think about being an emerging designer in London? Have you faced any challenges while starting up? “The lack of funding is a challenge and support is very limited. Fashion is viewed as an unsexy industry to invest in which is ironic really. People have notions of striking gold straight away but it takes time and a lot of patience. London is a fashion capital and there are resources out there if you look for them. There are also some of the best fashion and design schools, a great network of start-ups and relatively easy access to other markets. I do all of the production in London and lots of great designers are manufacturing here. I really hope that continues as all over the world people still love “Made in England’’. There are challenges for everyone in the industry but lots of opportunities too.’’

Tell us about your fashion business and what’s coming up in the next few months for you. “I have had a great reception for the first FashionLondon 65


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Fashion London Issue 16 Autumn/Winter 2016 and London Fashion Week  

Free luxury print and digital fashion magazine for men and women in London

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