2016/17 Edition 1.1
Editors: Ciorstaidh Monk and Alan Thomas Dibble Powered by: Cultural Enterprise Office Design: D8.uk Photography: Aleksandra Modrzejewska Supporting Photography: Ciorstaidh Monk Stylist: Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll Be Your Mirror Model: Georgia Garry @ Model Team Make-up and Hair: Shaun Lavender
Fashion Foundry supports fashion designers based in Scotland. Powered by Cultural Enterprise Office and funded by Creative Scotland, Fashion Foundry delivers practical workshops, advice, bespoke mentoring, networking, online resources and sampling facilities to Emerging Designers, Changing Gear Businesses and the wider fashion community. Fashion Foundry supports Emerging Designer businesses with free studio space, sampling and production facilities. Designers are paired with a mentor and are given a tailored programme of support allowing them time, space and industry expertise to develop their brand. Changing Gear designers are further on in their businesses and have been paired with fashion industry mentors who offer their experience to help the brands grow to the next level. Fashion designers in the wider community can attend practical workshops and inspirational designer talks, get free advice from fashion industry professionals including Fashion Foundry Director Alan Thomas Dibble and Project Coordinator Ciorstaidh Monk and access online resources and the sampling room.
Get in touch Tel: 0333 999 7989 Email: fashionfoundry@ culturalenterpriseoffice.co.uk @fashionfoundry @fashionfoundry
“ Know your story, have a strong range plan and lookbook – it’s all got to connect” Mairi McDonald, Designer Talk
— Fashion Foundry Designers move into Studio and meet their mentors
— T opshop – Gordon Richardson, Design Director, Topman and Jacqui Markham, Global Design Director Topshop Workshop and 1:1’s with Emerging Designers — Filmed by BBC Loop
May 2016 — L aunch in Topshop Flagship Store — Branding Workshop and 1:1’s for Emerging Designers with Keith Gray — Simon Cotton, Johnstons of Elgin drops by studio
June 2016 — T ake the Tour with Trakke Workshop at SWG3 — Emerging Designers 1:1 Personal Development Sessions with Lowri Potts, CEO IA — Jimmy in to service Industrial Machine
August 2016 — S ocial Media for International Audience Workshop — Content Planning Workshop — Costing Your Work Workshop — Changing Gear Businesses matched with their mentors: Elizabeth Martin with Kestin Hare, Sally Ann Provan with Johnstons of Elgin and Kirsteen Stewart with Angela Belle
— Selling through Social Media Workshop — Emerging Designers 1:1 catch ups with Fashion Foundry — Designer Talk: Isolated Heroes
— Analysing Social Media Success Workshop — Fashion Coordination Group Education — Rachel McMillan pop-up shop in Jenners
— Rachel McMillan featured in The National — Manufacturer Visit to Alex Begg & Co — Rachel Mentoring Session with Iona Crawford — Closing Event at The Lighthouse — Applications for 2017/18 Launch! — Sleekit featured in The Scotsman
October 2016 January 2017 — Seasonal Campaigns Workshop — Manufacturer Visit — Jimmy in to service the Steam Press – V&A Dundee visit studio
— Go & See – 8 designers go to Paris to visit Trade Show Who’s Next and Premiere Classe
February 2017 November 2016 — Video Content for Social Media Workshop — Emerging Designers Open Studio night — Working with Trends Workshop — SRD Showcase [Iain Sleekit wins New Talent Award, Accessories] — Designer in for advice / 121 with Fashion Foundry — Manufacturer Visit — Barbra Kolasinski launches new website
“ Cultivate your contacts – turn every contact you make into a relationship” Gordon Richardson, Topshop
— Photoshoot for lookbook with I’ll Be Your Mirror — Zero Waste Design Workshop with The Stitchery — 1:1’s with Topshop Print Designer and Topman Design Manager — Fashion Coordination Group – Agencies — Designer Talk with Mairi McDonald — Barbra Mentoring Session in London — Designers visit Premiere Vision, Paris
Focused workshops and designer talks that inspire. Come together with other designers every month to learn from experts and share knowledge.
Workshops and Designer Talks Branding: Keith Gray Take the Tour with Trakke Social Media for International Audience Content Planning Costing Your Work Selling through Social Media Designer Talk: Isolated Heroes Seasonal Campaigns Working with Trends Video Content for Social Media Analysing Social Media Success Zero Waste Design Mairi McDonald Designer Talk
“ Don’t just design stuff, design an experience” Take the Tour with Trakke
“ You need to be seen two to three times at a trade show to be taken seriously, but remember trade shows aren’t the only way think of other ways of approaching buyers” Samantha Paton, Isolated Heroes Designer Talk
“ Engage with your consumers through genuine provenance” Fiona Chautard, Working with Trends
“ Record yourself talking about your brand and write it down to make it sound natural” Made Brave, Social Media for International Audience
“ Make a press collection that you only use for this purpose. It means you always have samples to hand and you won’t miss them when they are out with stylists.” Samantha Paton, Isolated Heroes Designer Talk
“ Cultivate your contacts – build every contact into a relationship” Gordon Richardson, Design Director, Topman
“ Live stream while you’re making something, share your process, no-one else has your creative brain, no-one can recreate exactly what you’re doing” Sophie Amono, Made Brave Social Media for International Audience
“ When choosing an internship think What’s your signature? What appeals to you? If a brand doesn’t match up then it’s not going to inspire you” Mairi McDonald Designer Talk
“ I ask my interns what they are good at, you get the best of them and they learn from that experience” Mairi McDonald Designer Talk
“ It’s your job as a designer is to know what the trends are” Mairi McDonald Designer Talk
“ When setting up Facebook ads, set up multiple ads at the same time, then cut the ones that aren’t performing” Made Brave, Analysing Social Media Success
World of Fur
Using her love of faux fur, Barbra Kolasinski produces accessories and outerwear garments for women through creating and developing faux fur textiles using innovative traditional techniques. The support she has received through Fashion Foundry and mentoring with Kevin Harding, Brand Consultant has helped her develop her brand strategy, focus her range plan, identify her USP and target new customers. FF: What’s been the biggest challenge over the last year? BK: Understanding and putting into practice the differences between designing and creating collections as a student and designing and creating collections for your customer and not losing your identity and personality. FF: Why are you based in Scotland? BK: After years in London and several months in Paris – my desire to come back to Scotland and start my own brand was huge. I needed the support, the structure that was offered within Scotland. Fashion Foundry enabled me to grow my brand in an environment that felt right to me. FF: What’s are your hopes for the year ahead? BK: I want my brand to be continually creative, showcasing new work with colour and texture and offer a sense of confidence and playfulness in clothing. I would like to grow within Scotland and then look to Paris and internationally – my fur world has no bounds.
â&#x20AC;&#x153; Fashion Foundry enabled me to grow my brand in an environment that felt right for meâ&#x20AC;?
â&#x20AC;&#x153; [Being based in Scotland means] a better life, viable manufacturing, and being part of the wider Scottish creative community.â&#x20AC;?
Man of Detail
New Bedford New Bedford serves as the commercial output of Robert Newmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personal creative practice. With outerwear as a core product, the brand focuses on combining tactile, artisan processes, such as screen printing and hand dyeing, with heavy textiles and industrialised manufacturing processes. Collaboration, experimentation, and a wider artistic context are priorities within the brand. Mentored by Alec Farmer, Trakke and through support of the Fashion Foundry Industry Associates, Robert took a new direction, simplifying his garment shapes and honing in on his processes. He now has a registered company, a production set-up within Scotland, new contacts and links with suppliers.
FF: Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been the biggest challenge over the last year? RN: Working out exactly what I want to achieve with my product, and then doing that without compromise. FF: Why are you based in Scotland? RN: A better life, viable manufacturing here, and being part of the wider Scottish creative community as a whole. FF: Whats your ambition for New Bedford? RN: To grow slowly, developing meaningful working relationships with well-regarded stockists, and to continue to develop, pushing the boundaries of design and production.
Sketchbook to Silk
Sleekit A new luxury accessories label, Sleekit creates silk scarves with key pieces / garments added for each new collection. Each textile piece is inspired by its own narrative and tells a story through the fabric. Mentored by Samantha Paton, Isolated Heroes, Iain MacDonald transformed his business, found new suppliers and customers and developed new relationships with industry.
FF: What have been the biggest changes this year? IMD: My whole business has changed, my design process has changed, all for the better, I’ve nailed what my brand is. I have more fun understanding my business and what I love to create now. I’m thinking about collections, ranges, tradeshows and stockists. Fashion Foundry has helped me slow down and consider my potential. I’ve focused in on my strengths and I have clear goals for the future. FF: What have you found challenging? IMD: Changing my company vision and product. After a few sessions at Fashion Foundry I started to ask myself: What do I want to create? What are my strengths? I transformed my business, changed the brand name and set out to show a new side of the brand with a new product and look.
FF: Biggest highlight? IMD: My biggest highlight of Fashion Foundry was meeting top designers and Directors from Topman & Topshop. Gaining such insightful tips and tricks of the trade was so worthwhile from business minded creatives that are passionate about fashion. It was amazing to hear what they thought about my products and my textile prints!
â&#x20AC;&#x153; My whole business has changed, my design process has changed, all for the better. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve nailed what my brand is.â&#x20AC;?
â&#x20AC;&#x153; I want to collaborate a lot, with various artists. I love the exchange of creative energy.â&#x20AC;?
Birds of Prayers is a contemporary brand with an aspiration of full transparency. Aiming to be as sustainable as possible, Piotr Pyrchala uses quality fabrics creating small limited ranges incorporating the circular economy model. One size fits many, the range plays on volume and versatility of each garment with a minimalist cut. Through mentoring with Mairi McDonald, Piotr has launched his first capsule range, made new links within industry, developed a social media strategy and kept his customer central to it all.
Birds of Prayers FF: What do you feel has changed? PP: Finally I have acknowledged that I am a Fashion Designer ;)... it took me years. My level of focus and determination, it comes way easier now. I am way more confident and know how to ask for help, which is so important. FF: Why are you based in Scotland? PP: I Loooooooove it here, Scotland has an amazing potential and hunger for contemporary design! What I treasure the most are people, happy, creative and willing to do collaborations that are not
necessarily driven by profit! I feel welcomed here and want to be a part of the new force of great local design. FF: Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next for Birds of Prayers? PP: I want to collaborate a lot, with various artists. I love the exchange of creative energy. In the future I want to run, collaboratively, a big studio/ workshop/manufacturing space that will allow the entire process, from design to production, to happen under one roof.
Rachel McMillan Rachel McMillan creates signature bespoke prints on contemporary, easy to wear silhouettes. The brands vision is to make contemporary, ethical fashion accessible to everyone. Fashion Foundry studio space and mentoring with Lisa Taylor, Epitome and Iona Crawford contributed to Rachel’s revived creativity for the brand. Making links with new manufacturers, she stayed close to the production of her collection, involved in every step. FF: Where do you feel you have grown? RM: My confidence has increased in my design ability, my business decisions and my ethos. I have a clear vision of what my brand stands for, who my customers are and what type of clothes I want to be recognised for.
FF: Why are you based in Scotland? RM: I was born in Glasgow and love the city, I love the energy, I love the creativeness and I love the supportive network that can be found here, there isn’t anywhere else I would want to have my base. FF: What’s your ambition for Rachel McMillan? RM: To make a positive impact on ethical and sustainable fashion. I want to be transparent and honest to consumers, while offering quality, comfortable and effortless clothing.
â&#x20AC;&#x153; I have a clear vision of what my brand stands for, who my customers are and what type of clothes I want to be recognised for.â&#x20AC;?
Expert to Export
Changing Gear designers are paired with Fashion Industry Mentors who support their business to grow to the next level.
Elizabeth Martin X Kestin Hare
Kirsteen Stewart X Queene and Belle
Vibrant print, vivid colour.
Through mentoring with Kestin Hare, Elizabeth renewed her range plan, discovered showcasing opportunities and transformed her pricing structure. She has started the year with new suppliers and a renewed passion of the importance of quality, heritage and provenance to her brand.
Under the guidance of mentor Angela Bell of Queene and Belle, Kirsteen made the huge decision to sell the retail side of her business to concentrate on her two clothing lines, Kirsteen Stewart and Mixter Maxter. Following a rebrand of knitwear line Mixter Maxter, Kirsteen was awarded the opportunity to collaborate with Hawick Knitwear on a cashmere line.
Sally Ann Provan X Johnstons of Elgin
Traditional practice, modern design.
“Kestin made me look at other fabrics and consider my supply chain and I came to the same conclusion – heritage is crucial to my brand.”
“Angela [Changing Gear Mentor 2017] is doing it right now in the same industry. I wouldn’t have got my place at Premiere Classe without her support.”
Mentoring with Johnstons of Elgin, led by Chris Gaffney, Finance Director, has enabled Sally Ann to take a step back and reflect on all aspects of her business. She and the Johnstons of Elgin team have formalised planning, increasing her confidence and renewing her vision for the business. She has since re-structured and has a clear plan to move forwards to increase exposure and reach new stockists in the UK and internationally. “Chris [Johnstons of Elgin] listened and questioned enabling me to look at the business in different ways, to plan effectively, and face up to decisions that have been unresolved for some time.”
Sampling Room Construct patterns, sew prototypes and produce short runs. Designers can book time in the Fashion Foundry Sampling Room for free. Access industrial sewing machines, overlockers, steam press, pattern cutting tables and space for photography. Get in touch to book. fashionfoundry@ culturalenterpriseoffice.co.uk
Fashion Foundry Team Open to all fashion designers based in Scotland, Fashion Foundry is here to help you progress in your fashion venture. Get in touch for advice ranging from pricing your work to approaching a retailer manufacturer to networking.
Creative Business Planning
Cultural Enterprise Office Creative Mentors share their experience and Business Experts give practical advice. Together, they will help you understand the creative landscape and give you the equipment to be successful in that landscape.
Fashion and Retail
Caroline Parkinson focuses on helping creatives realise their potential through their practice/ business or support leaders through organisational change.
Fiona Chautardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expertise includes market trend analysis, fashion forecasting and product development. (IP) Legal
Get in touch to arrange a session. Alternate/Crowdfunding
Business Support Professional experience and practical advice
Tim Wright will help you to understand the options available to you, advise you on the important choices you will need to take, guide you on techniques you could use, and teach you how to build a plan to run a successful campaign. Business Development Gillian Caughey specialises in helping creative and purpose driven businesses understand the money side of their business.
Philip Hannay is particularly interested in inquiries around business start-up, intellectual property, licensing and franchising, contracting, director compliance, dispute resolution, acquisitions and disposals. Property Chris Biddlecombeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expertise includes the process of acquiring and developing creative space, landlord negotiation, leases and contracts, project management, operation of creative spaces, health, safety and insurance in creative practice, and development of collaborative arts projects across professional disciplines. Social Media Sophie Amono has worked closely with some of the biggest brands in contemporary fashion communications including Dazed Digital, The Times & NOT JUST A LABEL. VAT Angela Beddie can advise on a broad range of issues and has particular expertise in both the charitable and creative industries.
Our online resources are a collection of insights from designers and professionals working in the Fashion Industry. We are always updating our resources. Find more here: culturalenterpriseoffice.co.uk/ programmes/fashion-foundry/fashionresources/
Online Resources – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
An Introduction to Retail Approaching Fashion Retailers and Buyers Attending Design and Fashion Trade Shows Fashion Sector Overview Finding and Approaching Manufacturers and Suppliers Know Your Fashion Customer Learning to Run Your Own Business Planning to Attend Trade Events Planning to Sell at Trade Events Top Manufacturing Databases Top Markets for Fashion Top Networks for Fashion Top Resources for Fashion What’s the difference between cost, retail, trade and wholesale price? Where can I access machinery to manufacture my samples?
Thank you Our Funders: Creative Scotland
Fashion Foundry supports designers in Scotland, but our reach stretches across the globe.
Our designers have customers in: Australia Austria France Germany Holland Japan Luxembourg Switzerland USA Scotland England Sourcing from: Germany Spain West Yorkshire Hebrides Ayrshire Manchester Essex Troon Plymouth London They manufacture in: Hawick Coatbridge Orkney Glasgow London Dundee
People access our online resources from: London Glasgow Edinburgh New York Sydney Cape Town Dublin Lahore New Delhi Melbourne Los Angeles Birmingham Hong Kong Sandton Dubai Toronto San Francisco Pretoria Liverpool Paris Kuala Lumpur Birmingham Atlanta Manchester Leeds Dallas Chicago Washington Milan
Emerging Mentors: Alec Farmer – Trakke Iona Crawford – Iona Crawford Kevin Harding – Brand Consultant Lisa Taylor – Epitome Mairi McDonald – Mairi McDonald Samantha Paton – Isolated Heroes Changing Gear Angela Bell – Chris Gaffney Kestin Hare –
Mentors: Queene and Belle – Johnstons of Elgin Kestin Hare
Partners: Topshop Topman Special Thanks to: Laura McDade – Topshop Cultural Enteprise Office team Ashley Kelly – Topshop Charlie Hassard Chris Hunt – Scotland Re:Designed Emma Durnan – D8.uk Fiona Chautard – Fashion Info Trends Gabriella Marcella – Risotto Gordon Richardson – Design Director, Topman Helena Ward – Creative Scotland I’ll be Your Mirror Jacqui Markham – Global Design Director, Topshop Jackie McNally – Creative Scotland Keenan Erwin – Made Brave Keith Gray Lisa Moncur Lynne Packwood Martin Scroggie – MG Gabriel Miriam Ibanez – Topman Philip Long – V&A Dundee Sarah Saunders – V&A Dundee Shauna McGregor – Scotland Re:Designed Simon Cotton – Johnstons of Elgin Sophie Amono – Stuffs Stephanie Boyle – Made Brave The Lighthouse Cassandra Belanger – The Stitchery Wasps Studios
Front cover: Barbra Kolasinski