Malouf’s Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2015
ESSENTIAL SPRING STYLE SNEAKERS STEP OUT DESIGNERS HIT THE ROAD
Malouf’s Kingsgate Center 8201 Quaker Avenue #106 Lubbock, TX 79424 806-794-9500 Southlake Town Square 190 State Street Southlake, TX 76092 817-416-7100 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO
FEATURES 34 Designer: Hilton Hollis 36 Would You Pass the Modern Fit Test? 42 Noteworthy: Canali, Samuelsohn, Ermenegildo Zegna, Peter Millar 46 Designer: St. John 48 Culture: Through the Met’s Looking Glass 66 Book Review: Hug Your Customer, Again! 72 Wellbeing: Finding Clarity
FASHION 12 28 29 30 31
A Nod to Spring Tee Time Seafaring Styles Shape Up in Style Best in Show
52 Spring Essentials 60 Stranded in Style
DEPARTMENTS 6 8 10 38 40 68 74 76
Welcome Letter Ask Forum for Him Ask Forum for Her The Fashion Forum Footwear: Sneaker Culture World Scene Spirits: Bottle Art At Your Service
Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2015. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 18, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
© D.YURMAN 2015
Kingsgate Center • 8201 Quaker Avenue, #106, Lubbock, Texas • 806.794.9500 Mon-Sat 10am-6pm Southlake Town Square • 190 State Street, Southlake, Texas • 817.416.7100 Mon-Sat 10am-6pm | Thurs 10am-7pm
P E R F O R M A N C E
C O L L E C T I O N
S O F T
I’m unsure about tie widths: how wide should they be for 2015?
Slim down your neckwear for a more modern look.
It is a bit confusing since there are various widths that are now acceptable, depending on the width of your jacket lapel and the type of shirt collar. One thing is certain, however: acceptable widths have been narrowing for the past several years. We like 8.5 cm (3.35 inches) as a good go-to width for most of today’s suits and sportcoats (the hipster look is decidedly narrower); just a few seasons back it was 9.5 cm (3.75 inches).
I notice lots of younger guys walking around without socks. Is the no-sock look sartorially acceptable? It’s definitely a fashion look among trendsetters, so much so, in fact, that we now sell no-show socks that hit below the ankle and give a sockless appearance while protecting both your shoes and your feet. If you’re going for this trendy look, we suggest buying some no-show socks. That said, we prefer the look of a classic or whimsical sock with both dress and casual shoes (and sport socks with athletic shoes). Especially in 2015 when there are so many fashionforward options in color and pattern, why not make a sock statement? Let your hosiery reflect your personality!
My staple clothing item for spring is a navy blazer: what more do I need? You’ve got the right idea! A navy blazer can take you virtually anywhere: throw it over a polo shirt for lunch at the golf club or over a dress shirt for a nice dinner out. What more do you need? How about a brighter shade of blue, or something with a little pattern, for an upbeat summer alternative, and/or a lightweight cashmere blazer (once again, go blue!) for that extra touch of softness and style. While three blue blazers might seem excessive, trust us: you’ll get so many compliments, you just might come back for more.
I have a formal wedding coming up this summer: do I need a new tux or can I wear what’s in my closet? If you haven’t purchased a tux in a few years, you definitely need a new one. Today’s models are slimmer, lighter weight and more comfortable than the ones you own, and the fabrics are beautiful. Lapel options are numerous (peak, shawl, traditional) so try on a few to see which is most flattering. Another way to modernize: try navy instead of black.
IMAGE BY GMD THREE STUDIOS; TIE BY ETON
SPRING 2015 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
SPRING 2015 FASHION TIPS FOR HER I can never have too many accessories, but I’ve got all Q: the basics covered. What are some of this season’s unique standout pieces that I can add to my collection?
The Alexandra Clancy medium soft satchel in summer-ready fuchsia.
The term “athleisure” seems to be everywhere these days. What does it mean and how can I make the trend work for me?
This trend is all about accessorizing your activewear so you can go out to brunch or run errands without looking like you just stepped out of the gym. You’ll appear more put together, but you’ll still be just as comfortable in the stretchy, breathable fabrics you can’t get enough of. We suggest pairing dressier fabrics such as silk, cashmere or leather with your activewear to show off your feminine side. A structured blazer or fitted cardigan will also seamlessly transition your look from gym wear to streetwear. We love the activewear collection by Trina Turk. These pieces are designed to work for you before, during and after a good sweat. Come in to see what’s new!
Exotic leathers and skins are a fun way to make a statement this season. The small soft hobo from Alexandra Clancy doubles as a crossbody and features haircalf and water snake. The medium soft satchel from Alexandra Clancy is roomy enough for all of your everyday essentials and features haircalf and python. Both handbags are a bright fuchsia, adding a punch of color to your look. Available in hues that pair with almost anything in your wardrobe, clutches from Khirma Eliazov feature exotic skins including lizard, water snake, crocodile and stingray. Their unusual textures and vibrant colors make them anything but basic.
How can I stay warm (but still look good) during the early transition into spring? Ease into warmer weather with the update to the vest: a sleeveless jacket. This spring outerwear piece is versatile enough for almost any outfit. For a casual look sure to keep the chill out, try a quilted vest from Lafayette 148 New York. The basic sleeveless jacket from 1.STATE should also be a staple in your spring wardrobe. Available in light blue, navy and khaki, this piece is perfect for everyday. For a dressier look, layer a navy sleeveless jacket from Rag & Bone over a skirt with booties.
© F.L.C. / ADAGP, PARIS, 2015 | © DB - ADAGP, PARIS 2015 | © MAMO
%(67 LQ 6+2:
L A FAY E T T E 14 8 N Y.C O M
WOULD YOU PASS THE
MODERN FIT TEST? ANSWER THE QUESTIONS BELOW TO FIND OUT IF YOUR SUIT IS MAKING YOU LOOK OLDER, HEFTIER, OUT OF SHAPE, OR SIMPLY OUT OF DATE.
The width of the shoulders (point to point) should complement your body. If padding is extending the suit shoulders beyond your natural shoulders, then your suit is too old.
Lapels are slimmer, though your personal style will dictate how slim. If you can make the leap, try combining slim lapels and narrower ties for a sharp, stylish look. You’ll be surprised at how this takes years off your perceived age.
Sleeves are trimmer and armholes higher than before. This is how Europeans have been wearing their suits for years, allowing for arm movement so you don’t lift up your entire jacket each time you raise your arms.
Modern dress pants should sit a bit lower on the waist and end higher off the ground than before, so forget the old rules about where pants should break. We like to say that the bottom of the pant should “caress” the top of the shoe. The good news: people can see more of that fabulous footwear you’re now wearing.
If you failed this test or have any questions, come in and try on some modern clothing. We guarantee that you’ll see, and appreciate, the difference. .
IMAGE COURTESY OF LUIGI BIANCHI MANTOVA
Take the button test. If, when you button your two-button suit, the bottom button hits at or below your waistline, it’s definitely time to shop for new clothing. Also, with your arms down, the bottom of your jacket should reach your knuckles, not your fingertips.
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS
Athleisure has been dubbed the trend in menswear fashion for spring 2015.
ALL ABOUT BOWIE
David Bowie Is, a traveling exhibition created by the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, is also a documentary filmed on the last night of the V&A exhibition covering Bowie’s career as “one of the most pioneering and influential performers of our time.” In addition to displaying over 400 objects (including photography, album art, original fashions and handwritten lyrics), the exhibition includes video installations “to create an immersive journey through Bowie’s artistic life.” David Bowie Is highlights the musician’s influence on all aspects of the arts and popular culture. Since Chicago was the only U.S. city to host the exhibition (at its Museum of Contemporary Art), the documentary was created to give an insiders’ view to people who couldn’t attend. Say the exhibition’s curators, Victoria Broackes and Geoffery Marsh, “We are delighted that as this extraordinary exhibition travels the world, people will get the chance to immerse themselves in a cinematic experience from the original London show. The film offers fascinating detail about key objects from the David Bowie archive, commentary from special guest contributors and a fantastic soundtrack!” —EMD
This active-inspired style is street chic: think tailored sweatpants and joggers, technical outerwear, modern fleece tops, performance fabrics and designer sneakers. And while you might appear to be headed to the gym, the luxe fabrics and stylistic designs make it so you don’t have to. Michael Fisher from Fashion Snoops, a New York-based trend forecasting agency, explains athleisure as “a subtle technical approach that comes alive in interesting fabric combinations, pieced construction and lightweight layers that mimic the sportif lifestyle.” Come into the store and we’ll help you achieve this active look without breaking a sweat. —EMD
DAVID BOWIE IS IMAGES BY NATHAN KEAY COURTESY OF MCA CHICAGO; RUNWAY IMAGE COURTESY OF ZEGNA
the FASHION forum
Labor of Love IMAGE COURTESY OF KENTON MICHAEL
Men of the Cloth, a poignant documentary about Italian master tailors directed by Vicki Vasilopoulos, is must-see viewing for anyone who appreciates fine men’s clothing. This story of artistry, passion and pride is sure to inform and inspire. The painstaking process of creating a hand-crafted suit that conforms to the body and enhances the male form is broken down step-by-step by dedicated old-world craftsmen who fear that this expertise will vanish when they do. Fortunately, today’s resurgence of popular interest in artisanal craftsmanship as an alternative to mass production provides hope for the future of this venerable art form. Check out MenofTheClothFilm.com for screenings; the film will also be available on DVD and streaming from iTunes and Amazon.
HOT TREND: BRACELETS Spring is the season to show off your wrists as bracelets become the latest trend in men’s accessories. You can be creative with styling this look, as there’s no one way to wear them and there’s no one bracelet to wear. Mix and match different styles and materials—from metals to leathers, beads to stones. Stack them with your watch or call attention to the opposite wrist. The options are endless, so roll up your sleeves and have fun with it. —EMD
COOL SCHOOL Brunello Cucinelli is making it cool to learn the art of tailoring. He’s investing in young talent with his launch of the Solomeo School, a tailoring academy for the next generation of apprentices. In order to open the school, Cucinelli acquired the business branch of Sartoria d’Avenza, an Italian specialty maker of men’s ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits. There are four programs offered at the Solomeo School: two for Cucinelli’s direct business (Mending and Linking, Cutting and Assembly) and two to aid in the future of Solomeo (Horticulture and Gardening, Masonry). Cucinelli says, “The school is meant to be a vivid and concrete experience in which learning a craft occurs in an environment imbued with humanistic values…. Like workshops back in the Renaissance, these are a noble expression of craftsmanship, halfway between art and technique; they complete the human, cultural and spiritual training that, I hope, might stir in our youth the desire to grow up and question itself, the honesty to admit one’s mistakes, the ability to use manual skills to serve intelligence and to be ‘concretely creative.’” The first program runs from October 2014 to June 2015. By training craftsmen for the future, Cucinelli intends to keep the quality in the craft, and in his apparel collections, for years to come. —EMD
Sneakers have long played a part in American pop culture, serving the athletic community and the fashion-obsessed alike. With the recent emergence of the trend known as “athleisure,” luxury brands are transforming the once-basic sneaker into a high-end necessity for every closet. From a style standpoint, men are paying more attention to their footwear and seeking standout shoes. Trend forecaster Matt Feniger of WGSN explains, “Sneakers check off a lot of boxes: they’re comfortable, seasonless, and now can even be a statement item.” Designers like Y-3, Stella McCartney and Jeremy Scott for Adidas were among the first to enter the luxe sneaker arena, leading next to collaborations like Riccardo Tisci for Nike and Raf Simons for Adidas. Today, many brands look to what people are wearing on the streets and what’s trending on social media, then reinterpret the designs for their customers’ taste (a great example of the trickle-up theory, with lower-end skate and streetwear style influencing high-end fashion). Adam Derrick, creative director of To Boot New York, explains why dressier shoe brands like his are entering the sneaker biz: “As a lifestyle brand, I want to offer the footwear our customer needs for the office, for his weekends and nights out. The sneaker collection broadens our assortment and allows our customer to find everything he’s looking for.” Other designers are also stepping up their sneaker games. Salvatore Ferragamo, for example, is launching a digital interview series, featuring Douglas Booth and music by A$AP Rocky, that celebrates its new premier sneakers. Z Zegna is touting the launch of its new sneaker collection, which features luxurious nappas and suedes, technical meshes and printed stingray leather. “I don’t see the popularity of sneakers slowing down anytime soon; the athleisure and city sport trends continue to evolve and dominate season after season,” concludes Feniger. “There has been an overall cultural shift to a healthier lifestyle, so even if the athleisure trend begins to dwindle, an active lifestyle will remain an important aspect of guys’ daily lives.” So go ahead: invest in statement sneakers that will take you from workout to weekend and beyond.
HISTORICAL HIGHLIGHTS 1892
The first pair
of Keds—an innovative
hoops star Chuck Taylor
ties are shown wearing
duces its signature suede
combination of rubber
endorses Converse and
sneakers as fashion in
and patent leather
bottoms with a canvas
helps redesign the shoe.
several popular movies,
sneaker and the high-
top—is developed by the
His signature is added
teens around the world
fashion sneaker is placed
U.S. Rubber Company. 1917 Marquis Converse produces the Converse All-Star, the first shoe made specifically for playing basketball.
to the footwear.
follow suit. Sneakers are
firmly on the map.
no longer relegated to
global when Adi Dassler
the world of athletics.
and Nike announce the
creates Adidas in
first mass-produced ath-
Germany. It quickly
Jordan signs with Nike
letic shoes with 3-D print-
becomes the most popu-
to create his first Air
ed soles, kicking off a
lar athletic shoe brand
Jordans. Sneaker cul-
new age in customized
in the world.
ture is changed forever.
RUNWAY IMAGE COURTESY OF ZEGNA; SNEAKERS BY FERRAGAMO, KITON, ZEGNA, TO BOOT NEW YORK
FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS TO LUXURY TRIMMINGS. BY STEPHEN GARNER
CANALI: SOPHISTICATED OFFHAND STYLE Canali has a new creative consultant, Andrea Pompilio, whose talent is widely recognized in the fashion world. As a careful observer of life, Pompilio draws his inspiration from the small everyday gestures and individual expressions of people he encounters on the streets of big cities throughout the world. His talent lies in his ability to give a twist to the classic male wardrobe, reinterpreting shapes, fabrics, patterns and classic colors in an unconventional and unexpected way. Pompilio’s spring ’15 collection is an intersection of existing heritage and newfound inspiration. It fuses the values and excellence of classic tailoring with the unstructured elegance of leisure. He enjoys finding the perfect balance between these two worlds, brought together by complementary attraction. Starting with the Canali man’s refined attention to detail, Pompilio designs clothing to bring out the unexpected aspects of his style. The lines on suits and sportcoats are soft, lean and comfortable, often featuring checks or horizontal stripes. Trousers rest just at the ankle and are finished with a particularly high (8 cm) cuff. Rounding out the collection are colorful oversized sweaters, casually exquisite shoes in nubuck crocodile or soft two-tone calfskin, parkas, light jackets and long car coats worn over ultra-fine cashmere T-shirts, all glowing with the radiant palette of a Mediterranean summer. For guys who appreciate sophisticated classics but long to express their own personality, the new Canali collection is sure to please.
Above: designer Andrea Pompilio
SAMUELSOHN: DESIGN FOR LIFE Three years ago, Samuelsohn was a hidden gem. Based in Montreal, the company founded by master tailor Lesser Samuelsohn in 1923 was still making remarkable full-canvas garments the old-fashioned way, but it wasn't well known outside its league of loyal customers. That's changing. President and designer Arnold Brant Silverstone has managed to double the 90-year-old company without compromising its quality. More than eight hours of work goes into a Samuelsohn suit—they are all full canvas with one-piece collars and hand-sewn armholes. Today there are three collections: Performance, which features innovative waterproof and wrinkle-free wools; Collection, the classic full-canvas line that made Samulesohn's name; and Soft, a lighter collection of full-canvas jackets and suiting for evenings and weekends. “Our Performance line uses a Loro Piana fabric called Extreme that’s exclusive to us,” says Silverstone. “It’s the first Loro Piana fabric with natural stretch and also waterproofing. It’s a beautiful super 120s and 130s wool from Italy that looks rich, but also performs.” Samuelsohn's made-to-measure program is exceptional, both for its quick delivery and the tailors' abilities to make just about anything. “I've never seen a factory that can do what they do,” Silverstone marvels. “We’re a North American company,” he adds proudly. “We understand our customer and we live his lifestyle—we understand the fit and the fabrics and we're designing just for him.”
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA: LUXURY MEETS TECHNOLOGY Already the world’s preeminent maker of luxury menswear, Zegna knows a thing or two about innovation and evolution. For spring/summer 2015, check out their luxurious high-tech fabrics, exclusive patterns, rich new color palette (teal, mauve, shades of blue mixed with light gray, forest green, indigo and camel) and blending of modern design with old-world craftsmanship. Among the many must-haves in store for the season: lots of versatile lightweight outerwear. Styles include sophisticated safari jackets, city coats and blazers; fabrics feature Zegna’s exclusive Trofeo cloth bonded with a breathable membrane (40 percent lighter than previous versions), making these jackets trans-seasonal, water-resistant and very contemporary. If you haven’t bought a warm weather suit lately, now’s the time! Zegna’s summer suits and trousers are made from virtually weightless fabrics including soft, naturally elastic, high-performance wool (15.5 microns) and Trofeo mohair (both surprisingly cool). Seersucker and micro-patterns add a dimension that’s elegant, refined and individually expressive. Most important: Zegna’s soft unlined sportcoats in somewhat shorter lengths will update your image, whether you’re dressing up or dressing down. The finishing summer touches: a silk/cotton tie, polished leather shoes with inverted seams (or sneakers with contrast details if you’re feeling sporty) and the quintessential soft leather bag.
PETER MILLAR: STYLISH PERFORMANCE “We started out with cashmere sweaters in a lot of colors and it just took off,” says Peter Millar's co-founder and creative director, Chris Knott. The 14-year-old American luxury brand, which takes its name from an inscription on a vintage lawn bowling ball given to Knott by his mother, now covers everything from underwear to outerwear. Two of the newest additions to the Peter Millar lifestyle collection are e4, a performance-driven line, and Pick Stitch, a premium European-made line. “We hired experts in technical apparel to make the e4 line truly authentic,” says Knott. “It’s our styling with performance fabrics.” E4 includes waterproof jackets, stretch jersey golf shirts, lightweight fleece vests and performance pants. They’re pieces you can wear for travel, working out or the game—whether you're watching it or playing it. “Pick Stitch is taking Peter Millar’s classic line and elevating it,” says Knott. “It’s a little more refined, more city. It’s all made in Europe out of European fabrics; we use Loro Piana, Zegna and Carlo Barbera, and cashmere from Todd & Duncan, and put our own spin on it.” “We want to keep our customers right on the edge without making them jump off,” says Knott. “We’re not chasing the next hipster dandy. We’re classic, not traditional; on trend, but not trendy.”
Exceptional BY DESIGN
CATCHING UP WITH ST. JOHN DESIGNER GREG MYLER. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
Since 1962, St. John has been dressing women in casually elegant clothing that exudes a subtle power and sophistication. Remarkably, its signature knits are still designed in house and manufactured in the USA. The brand’s design team is now helmed by SVP Greg Myler, who worked at fashion houses Byblos, Mila Schon and Krizia before joining St. John in 2006. He describes his personal style as modern and luxe, qualities clearly reflected in the pieces he creates for the brand. Here, he gives us an inside look at what’s new from St. John.
On the spring 2015 collection: “We drew inspiration from the brand’s rich history, beginning with Marie Gray’s intent to ‘outfit women of success.’ Our look is couture American style; our clothing is regal in its bearing, yet relaxed in its wearing. Spring 2015 reflects the aura of what we call ‘Golden Coast Glamour.’”
On the St. John design process: “First of all, it’s a huge team effort; we have incredible design and technical talent. We have communal creative areas where we work on boards that serve as the ‘masterminds’ behind each collection. “Mornings are usually spent going over prototypes with the fit team, and the rest of the day is filled with merchandising and knit development meetings. We produce our own materials, literally acting as our own mill, so we
have the ability to control every step: from making and dyeing our own yarns right through to putting together the final garments. “My favorite part is just before we present the collection. All our samples come in and we finally see the clothes in their perfection, just as we have imagined them. We have fun styling and putting entire looks together. If we love them, then we know our customers will too!”
On being inspired by women of style: “The California woman has a relaxed elegance and ease of style—a reaction to our fabulous weather. In the same day she can step from her office to have drinks at the beach. Whereas in New York, the style is very strong and urban—a reaction to the incredible energy of the city. London women can have a cool and eccentric style, while Parisian women are chic and sexy. “Personally, I love and react to all these styles. Style is always about a woman being exceptional by her own design.”
photographed events of the year, attracting such superstars as David Bowie, Madonna and Sarah Jessica Parker, who wowed the crowd last year in an extravagantly trained black-and-white dress by Oscar de la Renta. (The benefits are overseen by Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, for whom the Met’s Anna Wintour Costume Center is named.) This year, expect Oscar winner Jennifer Lawrence to stand out (literally and figuratively) on the Met’s steps as one of the co-chairs of the May 4 benefit, which precedes the opening of China: Through the Looking Glass. The show will run from May 5 to August 16. Under the guidance of curators Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, and the artistic direction of filmmaker Wong Kar-wai, this groundbreaking exhibition will feature more than 100 pieces of ready-towear, avant-garde clothing and haute couture (including pieces by Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, Paul Smith, Yves St. Laurent and Vivienne Westwood) set alongside Chinese costumes, paintings, porcelains and film stills. “From the earliest period of European contact with China in the 16th century, the West has been enchanted with imagery from the East, providing inspiration for many designers, whose fashions are infused at every turn with romance, nostalgia and make-believe,” says Bolton, who is eager to take all of us through this particular looking glass to provide new reflections on the world of Easterninspired fashion. Start making room in your closet.
THROUGH THE MET’S LOOKING GLASS FASHION AS ART OR ART AS FASHION? BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
JOHN GALLIANO FOR HOUSE OF DIOR, FALL/WINTER 1997-98; IMAGE BY NICK KNIGHT, NICK KNIGHT / TRUNK ARCHIVE COURTESY OF THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART
This summer, there’s a good chance we may be wearing qipaos, cheongsams and Zhongshan suits—even if we’ve never heard of them before. The reason has nothing to do with visiting diplomats from China or the newest blockbuster; instead, look to the remarkable influence of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute (and its annual benefit gala) on fashion trends. The museum has become the “ideal place to explore the rich complexity of the innovative work of a designer like Charles James,” says the museum’s CEO, Thomas Campbell, referring to last year’s popular show Charles James: Beyond Fashion. The exhibit not only resurrected the name and reputation of the great American couturier but reminded viewers of how James’ sculptural creations could flatter the body. True, the Costume Institute has been putting on fashion-related exhibitions for over 50 years, including such landmark shows as The World of Balenciaga, Rock Style and Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed. But its beautifully curated displays have risen to prominence in the last decade, and the result has been a renewed two-way conversation between consumers and the fashion industry. For example, by August 2011, a record-shattering 661,000 visitors had taken in the aptly-named Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, leading to a newfound understanding of—or for some, an introduction to—the intricate creations of the late British designer. Meanwhile, the Met’s annual benefit has become one of the most
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This Swedish shirt brand is all the rage. Count on Eton for quality craftsmanhip and impeccable design.
SPRING ESSENTIALS Top Picks for 2015
Wavy and washedout, this print recalls blue skies and ocean breezes.
TRUE BLUE SPORTCOAT Lighten up! Trade your navy blazer for a brighter, summerready shade.
These elevated basics are perfect when paired, or wear as separates with hot spring shades of blue, khaki and olive.
These sportcoats work overtime to wick moisture, resist wrinkles and conform to your every move.
Rips have been repaired for a new take on destroyed denim. This pair is freshly mended and right on trend.
Tie one on in a silk knit for subtle hints of texture and tone.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GMD THREE STUDIOS. MEN’S STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY. COPY AND WOMEN’S STYLING BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE. GROOMING BY JULIANNA GROGAN. MODELS WALTER SAVAGE AND ANDREA DENVER @ SOUL MODEL MANAGEMENT; KATY BEAL @ Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. WOMEN’S JEWELRY COURTESY OF DANIELLE STEVENS, LULU DHARMA, SACRED JEWELS, DEEPA GURNANI.
Layer up! Sheer styles keep you covered up but still suggest spring.
STYLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC
STYLING BY WENDY MCNETT & WILLIAM BUCKLEY HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY
TIMELESS as the SEA
TEXTURES found in NATURE
HUG YOUR CUSTOMER, AGAIN!
AND AGAIN! IN OUR TECHNOLOGY-DRIVEN ERA, THE RE-RELEASE OF THIS 10-YEAR-OLD CLASSIC REINFORCES THE VALUE OF RELATIONSHIP SELLING. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
About 10 years ago, a second-generation specialty store apparel merchant based in Westport, Connecticut wrote a little book on customer service. The inspiration for so doing was an industry conference that predicted online retailing would soon put brick and mortar stores out of business. Jack Mitchell was one of the speakers but he didn’t buy into the premise: his family’s two apparel stores were among the most successful in the country, if not the world. Yet their secret was neither high-tech nor profound: treat customers first as people, then as clients. Caring inspires loyalty, which inspires increased sales. The initial version of Hug Your Customers: The Proven Way to Personalize Sales and Achieve Outstanding Results is now in its 17th printing, having sold well over 200,000 copies in North America and tens of thousands around the world (Brazil, Japan, China, Russia, Mexico, the UK, even Estonia!). What’s more, Jack Mitchell suddenly became a highly sought-after motivational speaker who has presented at more than 200 conferences around the globe. Why? In this writer’s opinion, the book is not just a guide to personalized selling but, in a very real sense, a manual for living a more meaningful life. I know it’s changed mine. “The heart of the re-release is the same as the original but with a new preface and, ironically, a new take on technology, the very thing that many predicted would put specialty stores out of business,” says Mitchell. Since the book’s original publication, the Mitchells purchased two iconic
stores 3,000 miles across America during the worst recession of our time, and more recently launched a highly personalized interactive website that somehow manages to convey their culture of hugging through cyberspace. The essence of the book is tough to sum up; it’s Mitchell’s marvelous anecdotes that bring it to life. Among my favorites: the time he opened the store on a Sunday just so a woman could buy her irate husband new underwear. (She was in the process of moving and had inadvertently packed and shipped all his boxers…) It was a small sale but Jack was happy to make it, theorizing that he might have saved a marriage! (Editor’s note: How did this stranger reach the store owner on a Sunday? A family member’s personal phone number is always on the store answering machine after hours.) And the time when, with the CEO of a luxury cruise line, Mitchell came up with the idea of lending tuxedos to male passengers (and offering on-board alterations) in order to raise the bar on dress code. The concept worked brilliantly, despite the fact that they didn’t offer footwear; guys would show up for dinners in their elegant tuxes worn with brown boat shoes or scuffed sneakers. Still, once seated, they looked great in the professional photos. The elevated mood among passengers jumpstarted sales in the casino and throughout the ship, as well as bookings for future cruises. Thinking out of the box, cooperation instead of competition, creating a hugging culture, challenges not problems, the power of new: there’s much to learn from this wonderful book. “I’ve added some new insights and fresh stories to the updated edition,” notes Mitchell, who defines a hug as any personal touch that impresses or delights. “But the key message I want to convey is that hugging worked 10 years ago, it’s working today and I believe it will work 100 years from now. So try it! It might start out as a business strategy but it quickly becomes a way of life.”
THIS BOOK, WRITTEN BY OUR FRIEND AND COLLEAGUE JACK MITCHELL, REFLECTS OUR THEORY OF PERSONALIZED SELLING AND CAN REVOLUTIONIZE YOUR BUSINESS.” —John B. Malouf
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
Experience life’s little luxuries. THE LATEST SCOOP Ice cream is one of the great joys of spring and summer. (Actually, it brings joy all year.) Perhaps you’ve heard of High Road Craft Ice Cream, considered by many foodies to be the best in America. Chef Keith Schroeder originally created the artisanal treats just for chefs, but word spread and fascinating flavors such as Pistachio Honey Ricotta, Mango Chili Lime and Bourbon Burnt Sugar, along with elevated classics (think Vanilla Fleur de Sel), are now available to the public. What you might not know is that High Road also crafts bespoke ice cream. You can request your favorite ingredients, or if you’ve discovered a rare chocolate or happen to grow pecans in your backyard, supply your own. May we suggest chocolate with chocolate topped with chocolate?
MOSEY OUT WEST AND SIT A SPELL
Feel a hankering to get away from it all? Looking for peace and serenity? Big Sky Resort in southwest Montana, between Bozeman and West Yellowstone, is famous for skiing in winter and also offers a tranquil getaway during the warmer months. Half Hitch Home, one of the resort’s Signature Lodging Properties, is a three-level log house that boasts five bedrooms, five bathrooms, two full kitchens, a theater room with seating for eight, an exercise room, a game room, a spacious sunroom with hot tub, and three living rooms decorated in the western style. A private concierge will arrange transportation and deliveries of groceries and liquor (a wine connoisseur chooses wines from the resort’s impressive selection), schedule a masseur and book a Montanatrained chef who specializes in preparing wild game such as bison, elk and pheasant. Sounds as fine as cream gravy.
does take April 24 . 25 . 26 Southlake Town Square Art in the Square 2015 presented by the Southlake W omenâ€™s Club
THE ZONE, PRESENTED BY
THE SHOW GOES ON The Signature Theater in Arlington, Virginia is renowned for its definitive Sondheim productions, inventive adaptations of overlooked or forgotten works, and fresh new projects. The theater takes big musicals and presents them in an intimate setting (with seating for only 275) without stripping down the cast or the orchestra. Signature also offers education and outreach programs that engage the area’s increasingly diverse population and target those traditionally underserved by the arts. As part of its 25th anniversary celebration, this spring Signature Theater is putting on quite a show, presenting the world premiere of Soon by Nick Blaemire, Kander and Ebb’s Cabaret, and Simply Sondheim, a brand-new Stephen Sondheim revue featuring six performers and a 16-piece orchestra. Bravo… bis.
A HISTORICAL FEAST Tugu Kunstkring Paleis in Jarkarta is celebrating its 100th anniversary (it was inaugurated in 1914 by the Dutch governor). Now under the management of Tugu Hotels & Restaurants Group, this legendary structure includes a gallery for art exhibitions, Suzie Wong bar, Ban Lam wine shop, bread corner and a restaurant that offers the Betawi Grand Rijsttafel, a sumptuous social feast that used to be celebrated by the Dutch plantation landlords when they hosted honorable guests in the 1900s. This special menu arrangement consists of 12 to 24 different dishes, presented by 12 waiters dressed in costumes from the period of colonial Java. Somehow, they find time between courses to perform traditional dances.
THE ONLY WAY TO FLY
If first class leaves you feeling a little cramped, reserve the Residence on Etihad Airways. Measuring 125 square feet, the Residence provides a living room, separate double bedroom and shower room, all with luxurious appointments. A touchscreen control unit operates the ambient lighting and window shading, adjusts seat position and firmness, and activates the in-seat massage functions. You’ll have access to broadband with internet mobile and data capability, live TV, HDMI, an AC outlet and USB ports. A butler, combining the roles of concierge and maitre d’hotel after training at the Savoy Butler Academy in London, handles the details and plans your menu. To ensure a really cozy night’s sleep, the Residence will even provide jammies.
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DRAKE IN SADDLE TAN AMERICAN BISON
former General Mills VP, started the program in 2006 after she found prosperity through a personal practice. Marturano has since gone on to found the Institute for Mindful Leadership, a non-profit organization where she now works with clients like Target, The United States Army, The United States Air Force, Procter & Gamble and The Mayo Clinic. The company organizes workshops and retreats that are described as ways to “explore the intersection of mindfulness training and the qualities associated with leadership excellence. With dedication and practice, employees transform their leadership abilities and their environments into places of increased innovation, greater focus, improved productivity and widespread compassion.” Oprah Winfrey is one high-profile exec who practices transcendental meditation (TM). She gives interested employees access to teachers and time to practice at work. In a post on Oprah.com, she revealed that her 20-minute morning sessions leave her feeling “full of hope, a sense of contentment and deep joy. Knowing for sure that even in the daily craziness that bombards us from every direction, there is—still—the constancy of stillness. Only from that space can you create your best work and your best life.” Founder and former-CEO of Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, Robert Stiller, created meditation rooms in his offices as a place for employees to find that stillness. Stiller once told Bloomberg News, “If you have a meditation practice, you can be much more effective in a meeting. Meditation helps develop your abilities to focus better and to accomplish your tasks.’’ Aetna CEO Mark Bertolini implemented corporate wellness and mindfulness programs including Mind-Body Stress Reduction, Metabolic Health in Small Bytes, and Healthy Lifestyle Coaching. (A spokesperson for the company tells us that approximately 13,000 Aetna employees have participated in at least one.) In 2012, Aetna launched the Mind-Body Stress Reduction Program in order to “help participants reduce their perceived stress levels while improving their ability to respond to stress.” Since then the company reports that “participants are regaining 62 minutes of productivity, with an approximate dollar return, in terms of productivity alone, of more than $3,000.” Finding stillness in an otherwise stressful world is not always easy. But the more you practice meditation, the better you’ll become at quieting the clutter. Your mind—and your company’s bottom line—will thank you!
THE ANCIENT PRACTICE OF MEDITATION IS MAKING ITS WAY INTO THE BOARD ROOM. BY ELISE DIAMANTINI We live in a high-stress world where it has become more difficult than ever to disconnect. So how do we find peace of mind when we’re constantly being pulled in a million different directions? When our work-life pressures are becoming increasingly intense, we’re always on call, and never without a smart phone… or two? Meditation is becoming more common in corporate America, since many top-level execs have discovered the benefits from their own personal practices. Some companies now offer mediation spaces at the office, to encourage employees to de-stress, rebalance and find clarity. General Mills was one of the first corporations to encourage and execute mindfulness practices in the workplace. Janice Marturano, a
IMAGE COURTESY OF YOGA FOR BAD PEOPLE
Want to get back into that vacation state of mind? Even five minutes of daily meditation can help.
BOTTLE ART ALCOHOL BRANDS SUPPORT THE ARTS AND FASHION. images. This year, Testino interprets Macallan’s ‘‘Six Pillars’’ of craftsmanship (small stills, oak casks, natural color, spiritual home, finest cut and the whisky itself) through four iconic images. One thousand Mario Testino editions were made, costing $3,500 each. That price bags you one of the Testino images, a unique expression of Macallan specially blended from six special casks, minis of the six individual casks, and a lacquer box also designed by Testino. Bottle closures have become a popular venue for partnering with woodworkers, jewelers and sculptors. DeLeon Tequila (relaunched this year by hip hop mogul Sean ‘‘Diddy’’ Combs) boasts an ornate (and heavy) silver bottle cap crafted by ‘‘biker jewelry’’ designer Bill Wall. Last year, Patrón teamed up with Evan Yurman, design director for David Yurman timepieces, to create a limited-edition bottle stopper for Patrón Añejo tequila. The $55 metal die-cast stopper is designed to look like the handle of a samurai sword, electroplated in gunmetal and 24K gold. Not every affiliation requires direct involvement with the bottle. Two years ago, Chivas partnered with luxury automobile designer Pininfarina to craft the Chivas 18 Mascherone, an edition of five streamlined sculptures/display cabinets selling for $100,000 each. And last year, Italian leather company Poltrana Frau was inspired to create a special edition of the company’s 1919 wingback chair, inspired by winemaker Lamberto Frescobaldi’s Luce della Vite wine. Dyed an intense Sangiovese red, it features an oak-lined cupholder attachment (for your wine glass) and monogrammed brass plate.
While you’re probably familiar with the wine and cheese served at art gallery openings, or jazz concerts held on winery lawns, you may not know how significant a role fine alcohol plays in supporting and promoting fine arts and fashion. There are the sponsorships: Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week, Coachella, Art Basel and so on. Some brands go beyond hosting after parties, as Stoli did in 2012: it partnered with designers at Sachika to create gowns inspired by the vodka's newest flavors. And of course, Absolut introduced the concept of bottle as art in 1986. Andy Warhol suggested creating a piece that incorporated the nowiconic bottle, thus launching the first of the Swedish vodka’s innovative print ads. The brand reportedly has a massive storeroom of Absolut-inspired or sponsored artwork to rival the government warehouse where the Ark of the Covenant was stashed in Indiana Jones. Other producers take their involvement to the next level. This past November, The Macallan single-malt Scotch whisky released the fifth in its series of Masters of Photography collaborations, this time highlighting the work of fashion photographer Mario Testino. With each collaboration, Macallan commissions original works from the likes of Annie Leibovitz, Elliot Erwin and others centered around a relevant theme (Erwin shot around Scotland, Leibovitz incorporated Scottish actor Kevin McKidd’s chiseled looks into a variety of drink-worthy settings). Macallan’s whisky maker Bob Dalgarno crafts unique expressions of Macallan inspired by the theme and the
IMAGE COURTESY OF THE MACALLAN SCOTCH
BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
MALOUF’S FORUM SPRING 2015