Larrimor’s Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2015
SNEAKERS STEP OUT FANTASY RIDES FOR CAR GUYS
ESSENTIAL SPRING STYLE
CONTENTS LARRIMOR’S One PNC Plaza 249 Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh 412-471-5727 Larrimors.com
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA
24 Shop Larrimor’s Online! 26 Dancing With the Kesslers 30 Shopping: How to Get the Relationship You Want 34 Art Changes Everything 38 Hotel Monaco 42 The Need for Nostalgia 43 The Heart & Sole of Eddie Reese 48 Wellbeing: Finding Clarity 56 Culture: Through the Met’s Looking Glass 58 Book Review: Hug Your Customer, Again!
10 32 46 62 70 72
Look What’s Fresh Brand Spotlight: St. John Footwear: Sneaker Culture Spring Essentials Noteworthy: Samuelshon Stranded in Style
Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA
DEPARTMENTS 28 44 50 52 78 80
Ask Lisa Ask Carl Spirits: Bottle Art Wheels: A Driver’s Dream At Your Service End Page: The Rules of Style
Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2015. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 18, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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Look What’s Fresh for Spring Floral Frequencies What’s that, you say? It’s ﬂorals mixed with patterns and solids— a whimsical KALEIDOSCOPE that surprises and delights.
Black and White In sweaters, shirts and knits, it’s right ON TREND. Whether abstract or geometric, it’s always crisp.
Blues Getting the blues feels great with spring’s new shades and washes, from pales to vivids, from ombres to stripes. Look for them in both DENIM and tops.
Serious Stripes On their own or blocked with solids, brightened up with CONTRASTS of optic white or heathered gray.
Embellishments Appliqués, EMBROIDERIES and cutouts— on everything from knit tops to voile blouses. By Lisa Slesinger Photography by Joanna Totolici
ST JOHN. MARGO MORRISON EARRING. OPPOSITE: ETRO.
FUZZI. LANA EARRING. OPPOSITE: DIANE VON FURSTENBERG. GIGI NEW YORK CLUTCH.
L A FAY E T T E 1 4 8 NEW YORK. C A R L O S FA L C H I CLUTCH. SIMON SEBBAG B R A C E L E T. OPPOSITE: EILEEN FISHER. GILLIAN JULIUS B R A C E L E T.
D I D I E R PA R A K I A N . AG JEANS. SIMON SEBBAG RING. OPPOSITE: ALDO MARTINS. AG JEANS.
VINCE. JBRAND. OPPOSITE: LISA TODD. LANA NECKLACE.
Lisaâ€™s Accessory Edit for Spring L E F T: M A R G O M O R R I S O N J E W E L R Y . R I G H T: L A N A J E W E L R Y . B E L O W: C A R L O S FA L C H I C L U T C H E S A N D B A G S .
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S HO P L AR R IMOR ’S ONLINE! BY ANN TRONDLE-PRICE
WITH BLOOMS AND BUDS,
Lisa explains that the website will carry the same versatile,
thing else will spring up this April: e-
on-trend (but not trendy) and special designer pieces that define
commerce at Larrimors.com. Shop
Larrimor’s. She says that select menswear will be added, but for
women’s designer and contemporary
now, the focus is on women’s. “Even though you’re buying on-
fashions quickly and easily, online.
line, the personal touch is still there. We’ll provide a direct line for
“We’re thrilled to be able to take the brands our customers love most and make them available on our website,” explains co-owner Lisa Slesinger. “It’s a curated selection of great women’s pieces from names like St. John, Etro, Escada, DVF and J Brand. We’ll begin with a few hundred items this spring and go from there, and we’ll change it up seasonally.”
shoppers to call if they want to speak directly with a Larrimor’s style advisor before purchasing.”
“Even though you’re buying online, the personal touch is still there.” —Lisa Slesinger With free shipping, free returns and a secure, online environment, the e-commerce site will bring an exciting new dimension to Larrimors.com. Lisa suggests customers share their email address via the site so they can receive email updates “relevant only to their purchases and interests—no spam!” she assures. Recent site updates also include a remodeled home page, calendar of Larrimor’s events, links to sales associates’ contact information and a redesigned blog. “If one of life’s pleasures is shopping at Larrimor’s, we’ve just added one more: shopping us online,” says Tom with a smile.
The decision to launch an online storefront is part of Larrimor’s continuing commitment to enhancing and refining the customer experience at every level. “We’re not resting on our laurels,” says Tom Michael, Larrimor’s co-owner. “We’re moving forward to serve our customers, who are often out of town or might not have the time to come into the store. And because of our seasoned eye and the way we buy for our particular audience, we expect to attract many new customers with our e-commerce site.”
DANCING WITH THE KESSLERS Fifty years later, Gary & Betty Ann Kessler celebrate the wedding they never had. B Y C A L LY J A M I S V E N N A R E PHOTOGRAPHY BY GOLDSTEIN PHOTOGRAPHY
ROM THE MOMENT
GARY KESSLER saw his future wife, he was
smitten. No matter that he was only 18 years old and Betty Ann was 15. Or that he lived in the small town of Ellsworth,
Ohio and she lived in Steubenville. When he saw her photograph in a high school yearbook, it was love at first sight. “I said, ‘I’m going to call this girl up…and if she talks to me, I will marry her.’” And that’s exactly what he did. Six months later, and only weeks after Betty Ann turned 16, Gary and Betty Ann became husband and wife. “When I was young, I always read Cinderella and wanted Prince Charming to rescue me,” says Betty Ann. “He is my Prince Charming and always will be.”
On October 15, 2014, five decades after exchanging their original vows, Gary and Betty Ann finally had the wedding of their dreams. It was a grand affair with 100 of their closest family and friends. It was a fairytale come true befitting the Kesslers’ own love story—from their love-at-first-sight moment to the enduring union that had grown more passionate over 50 years of marriage. It was a celebration that was done big, done right and done with style. An exuberant and fashionable couple, the Kesslers wanted to feel and look great during their special day. Larrimor’s ensured that Gary, his best man and his eight groomsmen were dressed Fifty years ago, the Kesslers’ wedding ceremony was the epit-
to perfection in Hickey Freeman tuxes. Betty Ann chose a stun-
ome of simplicity. Gary wore a pair of blue jeans and Betty Ann
ning bridal gown by Privata designer Ysa Makino, accented by a
donned a simple denim dress. There were no witnesses as they
graceful bouquet of white orchids. Her four bridesmaids shim-
took their sacred vows, and no honeymoon. They were young
mered in silver gowns by Privata’s Stephen Yearick.
and poor, but they were in love. “Of course there were skeptics
Wedding planner Tim Komen was hired to guarantee that no
who felt this marriage would never work,” says Gary. “But we
detail was overlooked, and he didn’t disappoint. An exquisite sil-
knew our love would last.”
ver silk music box, playing Beethoven’s Ninth Ode to Joy, served
That true and lasting love has endured the test of time.
as the distinctive wedding invitation. The Hydeholde was chosen
Through the years, the Kesslers built their successful Steel Val-
as the elegant setting for the outdoor wedding and reception.
ley Tank business, raised four children and welcomed eight
Boutique bakery Bella Christie not only created a multi-tiered
grandchildren into their lives.
wedding cake, but also mini boxed cakes that served as the
PHOTOS BY GOLDSTEIN PHOTOGRAPHY / GOLDSTEINPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
delicious wedding favors for each guest. Music and dancing were also showcased prominently throughout the evening. The
“Do it big, do it right and do it with style.” —Fred Astaire
wedding ceremony featured the Pittsburgh Symphony Brass and Mendelssohn Choir, followed by the Pittsburgh Symphony Strings over hors d’oeuvres and dinner. The swinging sound of The Boilermaker Jazz Band provided the perfect finale during the evening’s reception. But the highlight of the evening’s festivities was the Kesslers’ dramatic ode to Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. Betty Ann emerged on the dance floor in yet another dramatic ensemble by Stephen Yearick, a jeweled red dress capped by a translucent
The next morning, the Kesslers shared breakfast with their
cropped jacket and accented with a lush, soft feathery hemline.
wedding party and guests before heading to New York City for
After months of dance lessons at Art & Style Dance Studio, she
their long-awaited honeymoon. “What I wanted in my life was the
took her beloved’s hand and, together, they glided over the dance
prettiest, most wonderful girl in the world,” says Gary. “And guess
floor to Night & Day. Fred and Ginger would have been proud.
what? I got the first prize.”
ask What are the hottest color trends for spring and summer 2015?
you before, during and after a good sweat. Come in to see what’s new!
This summer is shaping up to be whitehot. All-white outfits flatter almost every skin tone, and a thin white sweater or silky white blouse should be the foundation of your warm-weather wardrobe. If we know our customers (and we think we do!) you can never get enough white shirts. Don’t miss the new flowy styles with cool details that are just arriving in store. Blue will also continue to be strong this year, and dusty greens and khakis pair back perfectly to the crisp cleaness of white.
I can never have too many accessories, but I’ve got all the basics covered. What are some of this season’s unique standout pieces that I can add to my collection? Exotic leathers and skins are a fun way to make a statement this season. Clutches can feature exotic skins from lizard to water snake, crocodile to stingray, and they’re available in hues that pair with almost everything in your wardrobe. Their unusual textures and vibrant colors make them anything but basic.
The term “athleisure” seems to be everywhere these days. What Q: does it mean and how can I
How can I stay warm (but still look good) during the early transition into spring?
make the trend work for me?
This trend is all about accessorizing your activewear so you can go out to brunch or run errands without looking like you just stepped out of the gym. You’ll appear more put together, but you’ll still be just as comfortable in the stretchy, breathable fabrics you can’t get enough of. We suggest pairing dressier fabrics such as lace, silk, cashmere or leather with your activewear to show off your feminine side. A structured blazer or fitted cardigan will also seamlessly transition your look from gym to street. Many of our favorite brands offer pieces designed to work for
Ease into warmer weather with the update to the vest: a sleeveless jacket. This spring outerwear piece is versatile enough for almost any outfit. For a casual look sure to keep the chill out, try a quilted vest or light jacket from Barbour. For a trendy look, a long sleeveless jacket in a dressier fabric can be layered over a midi skirt with booties. Très chic.
IMAGE BY GMD THREE STUDIOS
SPRING 2015 FASHION TIPS FOR HER
HOW TO GET THE RELATIONSHIP YOU WANT
WE CAN’T HELP YOU WITH LOVE OR MARRIAGE, BUT WE CAN CERTAINLY IMPROVE AN EQUALLY ESSENTIAL RELATIONSHIP: THE ONE BETWEEN YOU AND YOUR CLOTHING SALESPERSON! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
Consider this: There’s probably just one person in the universe who truly wants you to look fabulous all the time. Yes, he also
wants to sell you stuff, but he knows that if you don’t look and feel terrific in your purchase, you’re less likely to come back to the store or give referrals. This person, if inspired, can make your life easier and more fulfilling. Hard to believe? Then you haven’t maximized your relationship with your primary sales associate. Here are a few tips to get you started. • First and foremost: If you don’t have a preferred sales associate, find one. It’s as simple as walking around the selling floor and approaching an associate whose style you admire, someone you can relate to and feel comfortable with. (The other option is to ask the store owner and let him make the match.) • Make an in-store appointment with this person. Your time is valuable and there’s no need to start from scratch each time you need something. Then let him know how you prefer to communicate— phone, email, text, etc.—and how often. • Over-communicate with your sales associate at the beginning, providing as much information as possible about your life, job, fashion preferences, favorite brands, comfort level for experimentation and favorite items (around which to build a future wardrobe). • If you’re comfortable with it, indulge in a closet consultation where your sales associate comes to your home and goes through your wardrobe. The goal is to give away clothing that no longer works (your college sweatshirt and Landlubber jeans, those DB suits with huge padded shoulders) and to fill in with a few new items to ultimately update your image. You’ll be amazed at how liberating it feels to clear the clutter! • Be open to trying new things. We all get stuck in fashion ruts and
IMAGE COURTESY OF LARRIMOR’S
have trouble envisioning ourselves in a new look. But trust us: a small change can make all the difference! Even a minor adjustment (a different collar spread, a new color tie or sweater, slimmer-fit trousers, cool shoes) can greatly modernize your appearance. • Don’t forget to share your wedding anniversary and spouse’s birthday: your sales associate can make you a hero at least twice a year!
Exceptional BY DESIGN
CATCHING UP WITH ST. JOHN DESIGNER GREG MYLER. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
Since 1962, St. John has been dressing women in casually elegant clothing that exudes a subtle power and sophistication. Remarkably, its signature knits are still designed in house and manufactured in the USA. The brand’s design team is now helmed by SVP Greg Myler, who worked at fashion houses Byblos, Mila Schon and Krizia before joining St. John in 2006. He describes his personal style as modern and luxe, qualities clearly reflected in the pieces he creates for the brand. Here, he gives us an inside look at what’s new from St. John.
On the spring 2015 collection: “We drew inspiration from the brand’s rich history, beginning with Marie Gray’s intent to ‘outfit women of success.’ Our look is couture American style; our clothing is regal in its bearing, yet relaxed in its wearing. Spring 2015 reflects the aura of what we call ‘Golden Coast Glamour.’”
On the St. John design process: “First of all, it’s a huge team effort; we have incredible design and technical talent. We have communal creative areas where we work on boards that serve as the ‘masterminds’ behind each collection. “Mornings are usually spent going over prototypes with the fit team, and the rest of the day is filled with merchandising and knit development meetings. We produce our own materials, literally acting as our own mill, so we
have the ability to control every step: from making and dyeing our own yarns right through to putting together the final garments. “My favorite part is just before we present the collection. All our samples come in and we finally see the clothes in their perfection, just as we have imagined them. We have fun styling and putting entire looks together. If we love them, then we know our customers will too!”
On being inspired by women of style: “The California woman has a relaxed elegance and ease of style—a reaction to our fabulous weather. In the same day she can step from her office to have drinks at the beach. Whereas in New York, the style is very strong and urban—a reaction to the incredible energy of the city. London women can have a cool and eccentric style, while Parisian women are chic and sexy. “Personally, I love and react to all these styles. Style is always about a woman being exceptional by her own design.”
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AR T CH A N G E S E V E RY T H I N G BY ANN TRONDLE-PRICE
LENN OLCERST BELIEVES ART CAN CHANGE LIVES. In fact, he believes it can transform entire communities. Having directly experienced the healing power of art in his own life as he deals with pancreatic tumors, he is now taking it to the streets—literally—in his Mexican War Streets neighborhood. Last summer, on the side of his restored 150-year-old brick row house at Resaca Place and Eloise Street, Olcerst unveiled a 3’ x 7’ exterior mural he composed of more than 2,150 painstakingly cut pieces of granite and porcelain, some less than 1/16” wide. “The image is of columns and balustrades. “I titled it First Historic District because this was architecture preserved from antiquity that has been celebrated over the ages.” This stunning piece—joined by an interactive poetry display in front of his home and an Art in the Alley photography banner at the rear—makes a simple statement: art changes everything. “I’m looking to inspire other artists, musicians, poets and writers all over this neighborhood—world-class talents. Displaying their art publicly for visitors and neighbors to enjoy will be transformative. A labor lawyer by trade at the firm of Marcus & Shapira, Olcerst’s first exposure to the personally transformative power of art
was teaching himself woodworking decades ago when he first moved to the Mexican War Streets. “Then I got married and my wife challenged me to brighten up our home, so I learned how to make stained and beveled glass windows.” His next passion became stonework, again self-taught. Today, in every room of his home, his meticulous designs in stone come to brilliant life in the form of breathtaking mantels, tabletops, backsplashes, even a shower stall featuring a granite mosaic inspired by a Japanese quilt. HGTV produced two shows on his stonework. “I am an obsessive perfectionist,” he admits. “I cut patterns in contiguous pieces of stone so the grain inherent in the stone remains uninterrupted. If one piece breaks, I’ll redo the whole thing.” Perhaps it’s the lawyer in him. Details… fine print… to his eye, it’s all important and utterly essential. These days, it’s his photography that most energizes Olcerst. His work is part of PNC bank’s preexisting permanent Corporate Collection, and has been reselected for the new skyscraper. The photos he took across Italy can also be seen at the flagship Brio! restaurants on the East Coast. “But I’m now doing something with my photography that is truly different,” he says with unbri-
Opposite: Chihuly at Phipps. Top: First Historic District. Above: Bear Stampede-Vancouver. Right: Glenn Olcerst in front of Naples Reflection. dled excitement. “I am bending images with flexible mirrors and using a state-of-the-art process where the metal is lightly brushed, inkjet printed and heat sealed. The resulting image can be seen through the sheer high gloss coating, creating an almost 3D look. This in-depth finish bounces light off the image and enhances the colors in unusual ways.” The effect is head-turning, as are the digital photos hanging throughout his home that everyone thinks are paintings. “When people say, ‘Wow, what is that?’ it’s my highest compliment.” Perfecting and pioneering new techniques in both film and digital photography are as invigorating to Olcerst as shooting the subjects themselves. Olcerst is also known for another photographic process, an “ultra high-contrast” black-and-white technique he perfected. “I use rare slow-speed film that’s no longer available. I push the film in the camera, then the film is developed in special chemicals that develop the images in 8 to 12 minutes, not the usual 8 to 10 seconds,” he explains. At every step, something is tweaked to create a high-contrast image (similar to a
drawing) that is unique to his work. “I look for a new challenge in every art project so I can figure out how to teach myself something new.” Today, Olcerst is happiest when he is fine-tuning his photos, but he is always attuned to the bigger picture: How can art change things for the better? With his wife, Barbara Talerico, Olcerst is focused on the continuing renewal of Pittsburgh’s North Side. He points to the Allegheny City Central Community Master Plan that strongly confirms the power of public art on streetscapes to attract residents and businesses, and to enhance safety and community involvement. He also applauds City of Asylum/Pittsburgh, a local haven for international refugee artists, for working to integrate public art into places where people live and work. Ideas for future projects include installing photographs of local exiled writers around the neighborhood, or taking pictures of the homeless to simply show the world that “They’re here. They exist.” For Olcerst, art with a social purpose adds a new dimension. He hopes his neighborhood will join him on the journey. Visit glennolcerst.com to view more of Glenn’s work.
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HO TEL MONACO Pittsburgh welcomes Kimpton’s newest boutique hotel. B Y C A L LY J A M I S V E N N A R E
ROM THE MOMENT YOU ENTER A
KIMPTON HOTEL, there’s an un-
mistakable aura that surrounds you—a certain je ne sais quoi that makes weary travelers drop their bags, lift their
heads and smile. In January 2015 Kimpton entered the Pittsburgh market by transforming the former Reed Smith headquarters at William Penn Place into Hotel Monaco, a nine-story, luxury boutique hotel featuring 248 guestrooms and suites (including the rooftop-level Rialto Suite). The lobby and common areas are majestic and grand, yet warm and inviting. As soon as you enter this
“We are like no other hotel in the Pittsburgh market. As the only Downtown luxury hotel with a boutique feel, Hotel Monaco will lead the way in defining what hospitality means in this city.”
storied structure, your eyes are immediately drawn to a series of beautifully restored, fluted ivory columns rising to a recessed coffered ceiling. A grand staircase leads upward to two ballrooms and Kimpton’s trademark Living Room, a traveler’s respite and the perfect spot to unplug or engage during the daily hosted wine hour. Downstairs, The Commoner restaurant is anything but common. An exhibition kitchen, featuring a woodfired oven, is center stage for executive chef Dennis Marron’s modern American tavern menu. Complementing the 120-seat dining room is the Commoner Corner: a smoked meat carvery offering sit-down and grab-and-go breakfast/lunch options along Pittsburgh’s bustling Strawberry Way.
—General Manager Rob Mallinger
What distinguishes Hotel Monaco from other hotels in Downtown Pittsburgh? Impassioned travelers seek out Kimpton’s 62 boutique hotels in 28 American cities for their
charm, whimsy and warm personalized service, not to mention
boldly patterned paisley
amenities like yoga mats in every room, on-demand goldfish (ask
carpeting; and splashes
about Guppy Love at check-in), a 24/7 wellness & fitness center,
in-room spa treatments, custom-designed PUBLIC bikes, a wel-
brighten walls. But there’s
coming pet-friendly policy, and the popular Kimpton Karma re-
more…you can’t help but
smile at the whimsical
Kimpton is also considered to be the choice for travelers with
ceramic penguin lamp on
an eye for design. Pittsburgh’s Hotel Monaco doesn’t disappoint.
the work desk or curl up
Color, pattern and character tastefully combine to soothe as well
against the tufted kelly
as inspire. Fashion-forward guests will delight in the Etro-like
green headboard lit by a golden birdcage chandelier in the bed-
aesthetic in both suite and room decor: vibrant cottage floral
room. If you feel like you’re in the home of an eclectic world trav-
prints line hallways; black-and-white houndstooth designs adorn
eler, it’s purely intentional. And it’s right here in Pittsburgh. Visit
wallpaper and curtains; cool gray sofas accented by faux-fur
PHOTOS BY CRIS MOLINA FOR KIMPTON HOTELS
The Need for Nostalgia BY BRIDGETTE CUNNINGHAM
EY, MAGAZINE READER, the fact that you’re here is a good sign. You picked up a piece of printed material. You got in your car and made it out into the world. You might have even made it through Larrimor’s revolving doors. You left the digital world for a few minutes at least. You read something that wasn’t text on the lit screen of your smartphone or computer. This might sound ironic coming from a blog writer, but I wouldn’t be here if the road wasn’t paved by pencils before me. This season, think back to some positive memories you have wearing your favorite clothes. Didn’t you feel great when you stumbled upon the perfect shirt for half-off? Maybe later you wore it on your anniversary. Your favorite sweater means something to you, and that’s a good thing. You’ve developed relationships with sales associates in your life and gone on shopping trips with friends. Look back and think about what an in-store experience has to offer you. Sometimes email can’t provide the best answer about fit or fabric. A website might remember your birthday, but it won’t remember your kids’ names and what sports they play. Sure, these days keeping up with technology is a necessity, but it’s still not everything. In a country where convenience is king, it’s important to remember past experiences. Larrimor’s is keeping up with the times (stay tuned!), but the store isn’t straying from its principles. There will always be gift wrapping, coffee and someone to talk to, face-to-face, inside our doors.
Visit larrimors.com/blog for Larrimor’s news, fashion inspiration, styling tricks and general thoughts on the fashion blog world.
TRUNK SHOW APRIL 23
THE HE AR T & SOLE OF EDDIE R EESE B Y C A L LY J A M I S V E N N A R E
REESE still has the pair of cordovan Bostonian shoes
that started his career in the mid-1950s. Six decades ago, the shoes were considered an extravagant investment for
an ex-Marine about to begin his business studies at Robert Morris College. Even so, Eddie valued good shoes and invested in top-of-the-line footwear. Little did he know that his passion for quality would lead to a well-heeled career that lasted a lifetime. Eddie wore those Denny Murray shoes every day for two years. He found them at Hughes & Hatcher, the Pittsburgh-based retailer who not only sold him the shoes but also offered him a sales position immediately thereafter. Thirteen years later, in 1969, he joined Larrimor’s at the request of Carl Slesinger. He remained with Larrimor’s for the next 45 years, during which he fostered familial, trusted relationships with clients and colleagues until his retirement in fall 2014. Eddie’s distinguished decades of service at Larrimor’s reflect an unparalleled dedication to customer service. “I didn’t sell the shoe, I let my customer buy the shoe,” he said modestly. “I always wanted to help them find what they wanted, not what I wanted.” In retrospective, Eddie had unforgettably fond memories of the customers who respected and admired his expertise. “My customers were great people. They made you feel like they truly
EDDIE’S TOP 3 TIPS FOR SHOES
appreciated what you were doing, even though I was just selling them shoes. It may sound corny, but I appreciated them all the more because of that. It’s been a good ride, and a great pleasure.” What plans does Eddie have for retirement? As the father of three children and four grandchildren, he and his wife of 51 years, Nancy, agree that “it’s pretty much all about them!” Before concluding his final workday at Larrimor’s, Eddie proudly showed me his statuesque Golden Shoe trophy and plaque of Eddie-isms. Of course, I couldn’t help but ask him for his secret to success. “Do what you love. I did and that’s what made all the difference.”
1 Keep your shoes in shoe trees made of cedar. They draw perspiration out of the shoes and help the leather maintain its natural oils. 2 Alternate your shoes. Try not to wear the same pair two days in a row. 3 Every man should have three pairs of dress shoes— wingtip, cap-toe and plain-toe—complemented by a “knock-around” or casual pair like an overlay, plain or tasseled loafer. Wingtip is a good day-in/day-out shoe. Cap-toe is a bit more refined and semi-formal. Remember: the plainer the shoe, the dressier.
Slim down your neckwear for a more modern look.
I’m unsure about tie widths: how wide should they be for 2015?
It is a bit confusing since there are various widths that are now acceptable, depending on the width of your jacket lapel and the type of shirt collar. One thing is certain, however: acceptable widths have been narrowing for the past several years. We like 8.5 cm (3.35 inches) as a good go-to width for most of today’s suits and sportcoats (the hipster look is decidedly narrower); just a few seasons back it was 9.5 cm (3.75 inches).
I notice lots of younger guys walking around without socks. Is the no-sock look sartorially acceptable? (Won’t I ruin my shoes, not to mention my feet?) It’s definitely a fashion look among trendsetters, so much so, in fact, that we now sell no-show socks that hit below the ankle and give a sockless appearance while protecting both your shoes and your feet. If you’re going for this trendy look, we suggest buying some no-show socks. That said, we prefer the look of a classic or whimsical sock with both dress and casual shoes (and sport socks with athletic shoes). Especially in 2015 when there are so many fashionforward options in color and pattern, why not make a sock statement? Let your hosiery reflect your personality!
My staple clothing item for spring is a navy blazer: what more do I need? You’ve got the right idea! A navy blazer can take you virtually anywhere: throw it over a polo shirt for lunch at the golf club or over a dress shirt for a nice dinner out. What more do you need? How about a brighter shade of blue, or something with a little pattern, for an upbeat summer alternative, and/or a lightweight cashmere blazer (once again, go blue!) for that extra touch of softness and style. While three blue blazers might seem excessive, trust us: you’ll get so many compliments, you just might come back for more.
I have a formal wedding coming up this summer: do I need a new tux or can I wear what’s in my closet? If you haven’t purchased a tux in a few years, you definitely need a new one. Today’s models are slimmer, lighter weight and more comfortable than the one you own, and the fabrics are beautiful. Lapel options are numerous (peak, shawl, traditional) so try on a few to see which is most flattering. Another way to modernize: try navy instead of black.
IMAGE BY GMD THREE STUDIOS; TIE BY ETON
SPRING 2015 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
Sneakers have long played a part in American pop culture, serving the athletic community and the fashion-obsessed alike. With the recent emergence of the trend known as “athleisure,” luxury brands are transforming the once-basic sneaker into a high-end necessity for every closet. From a style standpoint, men are paying more attention to their footwear and seeking standout shoes. Trend forecaster Matt Feniger of WGSN explains, “Sneakers check off a lot of boxes: they’re comfortable, seasonless, and now can even be a statement item.” Designers like Y-3, Stella McCartney and Jeremy Scott for Adidas were among the first to enter the luxe sneaker arena, leading next to collaborations like Riccardo Tisci for Nike and Raf Simons for Adidas. Today, many brands look to what people are wearing on the streets and what’s trending on social media, then reinterpret the designs for their customers’ taste (a great example of the trickle-up theory, with lower-end skate and streetwear style influencing high-end fashion). Adam Derrick, creative director of To Boot New York, explains why dressier shoe brands like his are entering the sneaker biz: “As a lifestyle brand, I want to offer the footwear our customer needs for the office, for his weekends and nights out. The sneaker collection broadens our assortment and allows our customer to find everything he’s looking for.” Other designers are also stepping up their sneaker games. Salvatore Ferragamo, for example, is launching a digital interview series, featuring Douglas Booth and music by A$AP Rocky, that celebrates its new premier sneakers. Z Zegna is touting the launch of its new sneaker collection, which features luxurious nappas and suedes, technical meshes and printed stingray leather. “I don’t see the popularity of sneakers slowing down anytime soon; the athleisure and city sport trends continue to evolve and dominate season after season,” concludes Feniger. “There has been an overall cultural shift to a healthier lifestyle, so even if the athleisure trend begins to dwindle, an active lifestyle will remain an important aspect of guys’ daily lives.” So go ahead: invest in statement sneakers that will take you from workout to weekend and beyond.
HISTORICAL HIGHLIGHTS 1892
The first pair
of Keds—an innovative
hoops star Chuck Taylor
ties are shown wearing
duces its signature suede
combination of rubber
endorses Converse and
sneakers as fashion in
and patent leather
bottoms with a canvas
helps redesign the shoe.
several popular movies,
sneaker and the high-
top—is developed by the
His signature is added
teens around the world
fashion sneaker is placed
U.S. Rubber Company. 1917 Marquis Converse produces the Converse All-Star, the first shoe made specifically for playing basketball.
to the footwear.
follow suit. Sneakers are
firmly on the map.
no longer relegated to
global when Adi Dassler
the world of athletics.
and Nike announce the
creates Adidas in
first mass-produced ath-
Germany. It quickly
Jordan signs with Nike
letic shoes with 3-D print-
becomes the most popu-
to create his first Air
ed soles, kicking off a
lar athletic shoe brand
Jordans. Sneaker cul-
new age in customized
in the world.
ture is changed forever.
RUNWAY IMAGE COURTESY OF ZEGNA; SNEAKERS BY FERRAGAMO, KITON, ZEGNA, TO BOOT NEW YORK
FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS TO LUXURY TRIMMINGS. BY STEPHEN GARNER
INVE S TED IN YOUR INTERESTS FOR OVER A QUARTER CENTURY
Your Personal and Financial Goals Are Always in Season I am frequently asked, тАЬWhen should I review and revise my personal and ямБnancial goals?тАЭ As a ямБnancial advisor I recommend that, ямБrst and foremost, you focus on your ямБnancial needs and goals for the current year, and, even more importantly, your ямБnancial needs and goals for the long-term. Consider taking the following steps sooner rather than later: s $EVELOP A COMPREHENSIVE lNANCIAL PLAN WITH YOUR lNANCIAL ADVISOR 2ESEARCH CONSISTENTLY SHOWS THAT PEOPLE WHO PARTICIPATE IN THIS PROCESS ARE FAR MORE LIKELY TO ACHIEVE SIGNIlCANT lNANCIAL GOALS SUCH AS RETIREMENT !T "05 )NVESTMENT -ANAGEMENT )NC WE POSE FOUR KEY QUESTIONS TO OUR CLIENTS AND CONTINUE TO ASK THEM AGAIN THROUGHOUT OUR RELATIONSHIP h$O ) HAVE ENOUGHv h(OW DO ) MAKE IT LASTv h(OW DO ) PROTECT ITv AND h(OW DO ) PASS IT ONv 4HESE QUESTIONS HELP OUR CLIENTS DElNE THEIR LIFE PRIORITIES WHICH IN TURN HELPS THEM TO ESTABLISH THE lNANCIAL GOALS TO SUPPORT THEM
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s /NCE GOALS ARE SET EVALUATE YOUR CURRENT lNANCIAL SITUATION IN TERMS OF CASH mOW AND BUDGETING ASSETS AND DEBTS 4HEN LOOK AT A REALISTIC INVESTMENT STRATEGY FOR MEETING GOALS INCLUDING YOUR TOLERANCE FOR RISK AND TIME HORIZON !GAIN lNANCIAL PLANNING IS AN ONGOING PROCESS 4HATS WHY YOULL NEED TO MONITOR YOUR INVESTMENTS REGULARLY AND MAKE ADJUSTMENTS AS NEEDED TO REmECT CHANGES IN YOUR LIFE THE ECONOMY OR THE STOCK MARKET s )N ADDITION TO MANAGING YOUR INVESTMENTS CONSIDER OTHER lNANCIAL NEEDS SUCH AS INSURANCE IE LIFE INSURANCE TO HELP PROVIDE lNANCIAL SECURITY IN THE EVENT OF A SPOUSES DEATH AND LONG TERM CARE INSURANCE WHICH PROTECTS INDIVIDUALS WITH DISABILITIES OR CHRONIC HEALTH CONDITIONS FROM THE HIGH COST OF LONG TERM CARE s &INALLY NO lNANCIAL PLAN IS COMPLETE WITHOUT AN ESTATE PLAN %STATE PLANNING HELPS ENSURE YOUR ASSETS ARE DISTRIBUTED ACCORDING TO YOUR WISHES AFTER YOUR DEATH !T A MINIMUM YOUR ESTATE PLAN SHOULD INCLUDE AN UP TO DATE WILL A DURABLE POWER OF ATTORNEY A LIVING WILL AND POSSIBLY TRUSTS WHICH MAY HELP MINIMIZE YOUR ESTATES TAX LIABILITY !GAIN lNANCIAL PLANNING IS A CONTINUOUS PROCESS SUBJECT TO ONGOING REVIEW AND REVISION 7ITH THAT IN MIND CONTACT YOUR lNANCIAL ADVISOR TO HELP YOU MAKE SURE YOUR lNANCIAL GOALS ARE MET THIS YEAR AND IN THE MANY YET TO COME
FOUR FUNDAMENTAL QUESTIONS OF WEALTH MANAGEMENT:
Do I have enough? How do I make it last? How do I protect it? How do I pass it on?SM ONE OXFORD CENTRE 301 GRANT ST. | SUITE 3300 | PITTSBURGH, PA 15219 | 412-288-9150 BPU Investment Management, Inc. | Member FINRA/SIPC & an SEC registered Investment Advisor
WWW.BPUINVESTMENTS.COM SECURITIES AND ADVISORY SERVICES ARE OFFERED BY BPU INVESTMENT MANAGEMENT, INC. member FINRA and SIPC, a registered investment advisor. Please be advised that the accuracy and completeness of this information are not guaranteed. The opinions expressed are those of the author(s) and are not necessarily those of BPU Investment Management, Inc. or its afямБliates. The material is distributed solely for informational purposes and is not a solicitation of an offer to buy any security or instrument or to participate in any trading strategy and should not be relied on for accounting, legal or tax advice. Though our ямБrm provides planning services, we do not render speciямБc legal, accounting or tax advice. Always consult an appropriate professional before implementing any planning decisions. nb060513
former General Mills VP, started the program in 2006 after she found prosperity through a personal practice. Marturano has since gone on to found the Institute for Mindful Leadership, a non-profit organization where she now works with clients like Target, The United States Army, The United States Air Force, Procter & Gamble and The Mayo Clinic. The company organizes workshops and retreats that are described as ways to “explore the intersection of mindfulness training and the qualities associated with leadership excellence. With dedication and practice, employees transform their leadership abilities and their environments into places of increased innovation, greater focus, improved productivity and widespread compassion.” Oprah Winfrey is one high-profile exec who practices transcendental meditation (TM). She gives interested employees access to teachers and time to practice at work. In a post on Oprah.com, she revealed that her 20-minute morning sessions leave her feeling “full of hope, a sense of contentment and deep joy. Knowing for sure that even in the daily craziness that bombards us from every direction, there is—still—the constancy of stillness. Only from that space can you create your best work and your best life.” Founder and former-CEO of Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, Robert Stiller, created meditation rooms in his offices as a place for employees to find that stillness. Stiller once told Bloomberg News, “If you have a meditation practice, you can be much more effective in a meeting. Meditation helps develop your abilities to focus better and to accomplish your tasks.’’ Aetna CEO Mark Bertolini implemented corporate wellness and mindfulness programs including Mind-Body Stress Reduction, Metabolic Health in Small Bytes, and Healthy Lifestyle Coaching. (A spokesperson for the company tells us that approximately 13,000 Aetna employees have participated in at least one.) In 2012, Aetna launched the Mind-Body Stress Reduction Program in order to “help participants reduce their perceived stress levels while improving their ability to respond to stress.” Since then the company reports that “participants are regaining 62 minutes of productivity, with an approximate dollar return, in terms of productivity alone, of more than $3,000.” Finding stillness in an otherwise stressful world is not always easy. But the more you practice meditation, the better you’ll become at quieting the clutter. Your mind—and your company’s bottom line—will thank you!
THE ANCIENT PRACTICE OF MEDITATION IS MAKING ITS WAY INTO THE BOARD ROOM. BY ELISE DIAMANTINI We live in a high-stress world where it has become more difficult than ever to disconnect. So how do we find peace of mind when we’re constantly being pulled in a million different directions? When our worklife pressures are becoming increasingly intense, we’re always on call, and never without a smart phone… or two? Meditation is becoming more common in corporate America, since many top-level execs have discovered the benefits from their own personal practices. Some companies now offer mediation spaces at the office, to encourage employees to de-stress, rebalance and find clarity. General Mills was one of the first corporations to encourage and execute mindfulness practices in the workplace. Janice Marturano, a
IMAGE COURTESY OF YOGA FOR BAD PEOPLE
Want to get back into that vacation state of mind? Even five minutes of daily meditation can help.
BOTTLE ART ALCOHOL BRANDS SUPPORT THE ARTS AND FASHION. While you’re probably familiar with the wine and cheese served at art gallery openings, or jazz concerts held on winery lawns, you may not know how significant a role fine alcohol plays in supporting and promoting fine arts and fashion. There are the sponsorships: Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week, Coachella, Art Basel and so on. Some brands go beyond hosting after parties, as Stoli did in 2012: it partnered with designers at Sachika to create gowns inspired by the vodka's newest flavors. And of course, Absolut introduced the concept of bottle as art in 1986. Andy Warhol suggested creating a piece that incorporated the nowiconic bottle, thus launching the first of the Swedish vodka’s innovative print ads. The brand reportedly has a massive storeroom of Absolut-inspired or sponsored artwork to rival the government warehouse where the Ark of the Covenant was stashed in Indiana Jones. Other producers take their involvement to the next level. This past November, The Macallan single-malt Scotch whisky released the fifth in its series of Masters of Photography collaborations, this time highlighting the work of fashion photographer Mario Testino. With each collaboration, Macallan commissions original works from the likes of Annie Leibovitz, Elliot Erwin and others centered around a relevant theme (Erwin shot around Scotland, Leibovitz incorporated Scottish actor Kevin McKidd’s chiseled looks into a variety of drink-worthy settings). Macallan’s whisky maker Bob Dalgarno crafts unique expressions of Macallan inspired by the theme and the
images. This year, Testino interprets Macallan’s ‘‘Six Pillars’’ of craftsmanship (small stills, oak casks, natural color, spiritual home, finest cut and the whisky itself) through four iconic images. One thousand Mario Testino editions were made, costing $3,500 each. That price bags you one of the Testino images, a unique expression of Macallan specially blended from six special casks, minis of the six individual casks, and a lacquer box also designed by Testino. Bottle closures have become a popular venue for partnering with woodworkers, jewelers and sculptors. DeLeon Tequila (relaunched this year by hip hop mogul Sean ‘‘Diddy’’ Combs) boasts an ornate (and heavy) silver bottle cap crafted by ‘‘biker jewelry’’ designer Bill Wall. Last year, Patrón teamed up with Evan Yurman, design director for David Yurman timepieces, to create a limited-edition bottle stopper for Patrón Añejo tequila. The $55 metal die-cast stopper is designed to look like the handle of a samurai sword, electroplated in gunmetal and 24K gold. Not every affiliation requires direct involvement with the bottle. Two years ago, Chivas partnered with luxury automobile designer Pininfarina to craft the Chivas 18 Mascherone, an edition of five streamlined sculptures/display cabinets selling for $100,000 each. And last year, Italian leather company Poltrana Frau was inspired to create a special edition of the company’s 1919 wingback chair, inspired by winemaker Lamberto Frescobaldi’s Luce della Vite wine. Dyed an intense Sangiovese red, it features an oak-lined cupholder attachment (for your wine glass) and monogrammed brass plate.
IMAGE COURTESY OF THE MACALLAN SCOTCH
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2015 Corvette Stingray
A DRIVER’S DREAM
ROAD TESTING THE BEST NEW AUTOMOBILES OF 2015. BY DAVID A. ROSE
2015 Camaro ZL1
A real car guy never thinks of his automobile as transportation. For him it’s the thrill of acceleration, the sense of control as he traverses through a tight turn, the throaty sound of his car’s exhaust note. These are what bring him joy. His sports car may not be the most pragmatic machine on the road, but it likely reflects his personality and sense of style. The car guy—and he who desires to become one—is the guy I’m addressing here. At the magnificent Monticello Motor Club in Monticello, New York, I had the opportunity to drive almost all the newly released 2015 car models as part of the International Motor Press Association’s test days. This happens each year as the new models are about to go on sale, so that automobile journalists can ascertain an impression of each one. In this car guy’s opinion, these six models represent the cream of the crop.
With a top speed of 184 MPH, 0 to 60 in four seconds and the ability to travel a quarter-mile in just 11.96 seconds, you might say this car was built to impress. The original Camaro was introduced in 1967, and this 2015 ZL1 more than lives up to its iconic heritage. The vehicle has it all: speed, looks and comfort. The 6.2 liter supercharged engine delivers 580 horsepower with 556 foot-pounds of torque. Taking cues from its racing past, the Camaro ZL1 is a driver’s machine; it’s strictly for the guy who wants all the grunt he can get from a street car.
2015 Corvette Stingray This eight-speed paddle-shifting convertible boasts 460 horsepower with 465 foot-pounds of torque. The exhaust note of the V8 engine is equivalent to the lyrical tonality of a brass band. Unlike earlier Corvettes (which tended to under-steer with hard cornering), this car is very neutral and quite nimble. Truly a world-class sports car, comparable to a Ferrari 458 Italia but at less than half the price.
Simply the BEST!
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2015 BMW 428i Gran Coupe 2015 Cadillac ATS Coupe
2015 Jaguar F-Type
2015 Maserati Ghibli S Q4
2015 Maserati Ghibli S Q4 Comparing this Maserati to most muscle cars is akin to comparing Swan Lake to The Rocky Horror Picture Show. But its elegant looks can be misleading. When you put the hammer down on this fourdoor sedan, I promise you won’t be disappointed. It may not have the brute power of a Camaro ZL1, but the 404 horsepower and 404 foot-pounds of torque delivered from its three-liter twin-turbo V/6 will take it from 0 to 60 in under five seconds (it tops out at 165 MPH). This impressive performance is even more enjoyable since the car still provides the driver and passengers with a smooth and luxurious ride.
2015 Jaguar F-Type It may have taken 40 years to follow up on the extraordinary EType Jaguar of the 1960s and ’70s, but let me tell you: It was worth the wait. The Jaguar F-Type embodies all the feline superlatives one would expect from a two-seater Jaguar sports car. There are three engine options, all of which are supercharged. The standard F-Type three-liter V/6 delivers 340 horsepower; the F-Type S three-liter V/6 delivers 380 horsepower; and the F-Type V/8 S produces 495 horsepower. In terms of all-around performance, handling, looks and appeal, this is the car that does it all. The
Jaguar F-Type lives up to it pedigree and provides its owner the feel and sound of a racecar—even when shopping for groceries.
2015 BMW 428i Gran Coupe Stepping out of a Corvette and into a four-door hatchback may sound like a downgrade, but to my surprise and delight, this car was fun to drive. It offers great handling, an aggressive exhaust sound, and of course, the sensibility of four doors with hatchback storage. And it’s plenty quick. The four-cylinder, two-liter turbo engine produces 240 horsepower, capable of launching this 3,700pound car from 0 to 60 in less than six seconds while achieving 27 miles per gallon.
2015 Cadillac ATS Coupe This is not your father’s Cadillac. It’s a dignified automobile with proper Cadillac refinements, but with the added element of performance. The 3.6 liter V/6 produces 321 horsepower, enough to make a Sunday drive in the country something special. Clearly, this is a good year for car guys. Expand your collection, get out on the road and celebrate spring!
photographed events of the year, attracting such superstars as David Bowie, Madonna and Sarah Jessica Parker, who wowed the crowd last year in an extravagantly trained black-and-white dress by Oscar de la Renta. (The benefits are overseen by Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, for whom the Met’s Anna Wintour Costume Center is named.) This year, expect Oscar winner Jennifer Lawrence to stand out (literally and figuratively) on the Met’s steps as one of the co-chairs of the May 4 benefit, which precedes the opening of China: Through the Looking Glass. The show will run from May 5 to August 16. Under the guidance of curators Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, and the artistic direction of filmmaker Wong Kar-wai, this groundbreaking exhibition will feature more than 100 pieces of ready-towear, avant-garde clothing and haute couture (including pieces by Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, Paul Smith, Yves St. Laurent and Vivienne Westwood) set alongside Chinese costumes, paintings, porcelains and film stills. “From the earliest period of European contact with China in the 16th century, the West has been enchanted with imagery from the East, providing inspiration for many designers, whose fashions are infused at every turn with romance, nostalgia and make-believe,” says Bolton, who is eager to take all of us through this particular looking glass to provide new reflections on the world of Easterninspired fashion. Start making room in your closet.
THROUGH THE MET’S LOOKING GLASS FASHION AS ART OR ART AS FASHION? BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
JOHN GALLIANO FOR HOUSE OF DIOR, FALL/WINTER 1997-98; IMAGE BY NICK KNIGHT, NICK KNIGHT / TRUNK ARCHIVE COURTESY OF THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART
This summer, there’s a good chance we may be wearing qipaos, cheongsams and Zhongshan suits—even if we’ve never heard of them before. The reason has nothing to do with visiting diplomats from China or the newest blockbuster; instead, look to the remarkable influence of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute (and its annual benefit gala) on fashion trends. The museum has become the “ideal place to explore the rich complexity of the innovative work of a designer like Charles James,” says the museum’s CEO, Thomas Campbell, referring to last year’s popular show Charles James: Beyond Fashion. The exhibit not only resurrected the name and reputation of the great American couturier but reminded viewers of how James’ sculptural creations could flatter the body. True, the Costume Institute has been putting on fashion-related exhibitions for over 50 years, including such landmark shows as The World of Balenciaga, Rock Style and Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed. But its beautifully curated displays have risen to prominence in the last decade, and the result has been a renewed two-way conversation between consumers and the fashion industry. For example, by August 2011, a record-shattering 661,000 visitors had taken in the aptly-named Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, leading to a newfound understanding of—or for some, an introduction to—the intricate creations of the late British designer. Meanwhile, the Met’s annual benefit has become one of the most
F R A M E S A S U N I Q U E A S T H E FAC E S T H E Y ’ R E O N .
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HUG YOUR CUSTOMER, AGAIN!
AND AGAIN! IN OUR TECHNOLOGY-DRIVEN ERA, THE RE-RELEASE OF THIS 10-YEAR-OLD CLASSIC REINFORCES THE VALUE OF RELATIONSHIP SELLING. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN stores 3,000 miles across America during the worst recession of our time, and more recently launched a highly personalized interactive website that somehow manages to convey their culture of hugging through cyberspace. The essence of the book is tough to sum up; it’s Mitchell’s marvelous anecdotes that bring it to life. Among my favorites: the time he opened the store on a Sunday just so a woman could buy her irate husband new underwear. (She was in the process of moving and had inadvertently packed and shipped all his boxers…) It was a small sale but Jack was happy to make it, theorizing that he might have saved a marriage! (Editor’s note: How did this stranger reach the store owner on a Sunday? A family member’s personal phone number is always on the store answering machine after hours.) And the time when, with the CEO of a luxury cruise line, Mitchell came up with the idea of lending tuxedos to male passengers (and offering on-board alterations) in order to raise the bar on dress code. The concept worked brilliantly, despite the fact that they didn’t offer footwear; guys would show up for dinners in their elegant tuxes worn with brown boat shoes or scuffed sneakers. Still, once seated, they looked great in the professional photos. The elevated mood among passengers jumpstarted sales in the casino and throughout the ship, as well as bookings for future cruises. Thinking out of the box, cooperation instead of competition, creating a hugging culture, challenges not problems, the power of new: there’s much to learn from this wonderful book. “I’ve added some new insights and fresh stories to the updated edition,” notes Mitchell, who defines a hug as any personal touch that impresses or delights. “But the key message I want to convey is that hugging worked 10 years ago, it’s working today and I believe it will work 100 years from now. So try it! It might start out as a business strategy but it quickly becomes a way of life.”
About 10 years ago, a second-generation specialty store apparel merchant based in Westport, Connecticut wrote a little book on customer service. The inspiration for so doing was an industry conference that predicted online retailing would soon put brick and mortar stores out of business. Jack Mitchell was one of the speakers but he didn’t buy into the premise: his family’s two apparel stores were among the most successful in the country, if not the world. Yet their secret was neither high-tech nor profound: treat customers first as people, then as clients. Caring inspires loyalty, which inspires increased sales. The initial version of Hug Your Customers: The Proven Way to Personalize Sales and Achieve Outstanding Results is now in its 17th printing, having sold well over 200,000 copies in North America and tens of thousands around the world (Brazil, Japan, China, Russia, Mexico, the UK, even Estonia!). What’s more, Jack Mitchell suddenly became a highly sought-after motivational speaker who has presented at more than 200 conferences around the globe. Why? In this writer’s opinion, the book is not just a guide to personalized selling but, in a very real sense, a manual for living a more meaningful life. I know it’s changed mine. “The heart of the re-release is the same as the original but with a new preface and, ironically, a new take on technology, the very thing that many predicted would put specialty stores out of business,” says Mitchell. Since the book’s original publication, the Mitchells purchased two iconic
THIS BOOK, WRITTEN BY OUR FRIEND AND COLLEAGUE JACK MITCHELL, REFLECTS OUR THEORY OF PERSONALIZED SELLING AND CAN REVOLUTIONIZE YOUR BUSINESS.” —Tom Michael, Larrimor’s
NO THI NG V E NT UR ED, NOTHING GAIN ED BlueTree Venture Fund 1 Launches in Pittsburgh B Y C A L LY J A M I S V E N N A R E
how they choose their invest-
tively few local funds able to participate in these deals, most of
ments and you will likely hear a similar response: expe-
these companies are compelled to follow the money and relo-
rienced management team, domain expertise, market
cate jobs and wealth elsewhere.
SK ALMOST ANY INVESTOR
opportunity and access to capital.
Mott and her partners seek to change that dynamic by invest-
For individual investors, mitigating risk is key. For investment
ing approximately 50% of BlueTree Venture Fund 1 assets in West-
funds, deal flow is the Holy Grail. But the common denominator
ern Pennsylvania companies, which they believe are under-served
for both is return on investment. As the founder of Pittsburgh’s angel network and former chairman of the National Angel Capital Association, Catherine Mott links qualified investors with investment opportunities in promising startup companies to maximize ROI. Last spring, she joined forces with partners Roger Byford, David Motley and Jonathan Pastor to launch the BlueTree Venture Fund 1—a $30 million fund
“Our intention is to emphasize a return on investment by focusing on the greater good of creating wealth and job opportunities for our region.” —Catherine Mott
that targets investment opportunities in software/internet, high
at a time when opportunities are peaking and scaling; remaining
tech instruments/hardware, and medical technologies.
assets are spread throughout the inland mid-Atlantic region.
Why now, why Pittsburgh and why a new fund?
The fund’s strategic focus on local companies and those within
The launch of BlueTree Venture Fund 1 was, quite simply, dic-
a 250-mile radius also allows its partners to spend significant time
tated by demand. “My partners and I kept receiving inquiries from
with portfolio companies, thereby increasing their odds of suc-
individuals seeking passive venture investments,” notes Mott.
Following the downturn of 2008-2009, opportunity knocked at
According to Mott, it’s a win-win for all—investors, companies
the right time. Plus, she and her partners pos-
and our region. “Our intention is to empha-
sessed an enviable combination of experience,
size a return on investment by focusing on
expertise, strong connections and deal flow.
the greater good of creating wealth and job opportunities for our region, primarily in life
Pittsburgh, it seems, is also poised for con-
sciences and information technology."
tinued innovation and opportunity. Mott quickly points to a recent Ernst & Young | Innovation Works report; the study cited that 120 venture
BlueTree Venture Fund’s first two rounds of
capital firms nationwide invested in 249 Pitts-
$10 million each were closed in September
burgh companies between 2009 and 2013, resulting in 34 com-
2014; the final round of $10 million was anticipated to close by
pany exits. The value: $3 billion.
first quarter 2015. Mott assures that the fund’s investor strategy
There are pros and cons to this success. The upside is that
makes it possible for the average individual to participate. To learn
these investments validate the number and quality of opportuni-
more, visit bluetreeventurefund.com or contact Catherine Mott
ties in Pittsburgh. The downside is that, because there are rela-
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This Swedish shirt brand is all the rage. Count on Eton for quality craftsmanship and impeccable design.
TRUE BLUE SPORTCOAT
Lighten up! Trade your navy blazer for a brighter, summer-ready shade.
Its streamlined silhouette and solid color means you wonâ€™t have to switch bags with every outfit. Its oversized shape holds all your everyday essentials.
Skip the heavy jeans and switch to five-pocket pants in muted summer shades of blue and green.
BOHO MAXI DRESS
Seventies fashion is huge this spring: think flowing skirts, feathers and flower power.
SAMUELSOHN: DESIGN FOR LIFE Three years ago, Samuelsohn was a hidden gem. Based in Montreal, the company founded by master tailor Lesser Samuelsohn in 1923 was still making remarkable full-canvas garments the old-fashioned way, but it wasn't well known outside its league of loyal customers. That's changing. President and designer Arnold Brant Silverstone has managed to double the 90-year-old company without compromising its quality. More than eight hours of work goes into a Samuelsohn suit—they are all full canvas with one-piece collars and hand-sewn armholes. Today there are three collections: Performance, which features innovative waterproof and wrinkle-free wools; Collection, the classic full-canvas line that made Samulesohn's name; and Soft, a lighter collection of full-canvas jackets and suiting for evenings and weekends. “Our Performance line uses a Loro Piana fabric called Extreme that’s exclusive to us,” says Silverstone. “It’s the first Loro Piana fabric with natural stretch and also waterproofing. It’s a beautiful super 120s and 130s wool from Italy that looks rich, but also performs.” Samuelsohn's made-to-measure program is exceptional, both for its quick delivery and the tailors' abilities to make just about anything. “I've never seen a factory that can do what they do,” Silverstone marvels. “We’re a North American company,” he adds proudly. “We understand our customer and we live his lifestyle—we understand the fit and the fabrics and we're designing just for him.”
STYLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC
STYLING BY WENDY MCNETT & WILLIAM BUCKLEY HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY
TIMELESS as the SEA
TEXTURES found in NATURE
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS
at your service
COFFEE & WATER BAR
In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer a complimentary closet consultation. One of our associates will visit your home to inventory your closet, and offer suggestions on how to mix and match new items with your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand, to provide any fitting or readjustments that you may need.
Our long-term sales associates have been with us for an average of 16 years, and are passionate about counseling our customers and advising you on all clothing and accessory matters. From trends to tailoring, we want to ensure that your shopping experience is a pleasant one.
In the hectic world in which we live, many simple pleasures are lost. Sometimes a hot cup of coffee or a friendly, familiar face is the best comfort for the soul. We’re happy to provide both, and more.
BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suits or outerwear with buttons that need attention, and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, at no charge. We want you looking your best, down to the last detail.
Upon cleaning your closet, you may have unwanted items. Should this be the case, we can coordinate a donation to a local charity and make the delivery for you.
BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and ease your mind while you shop.
GIFT CERTIFICATES A Larrimor’s gift certificate is the gift that always fits! Our gift certificates are available for purchase in store or over the phone, in any denomination. If you can’t make it to the store, just give us a call and we’ll wrap the gift certificate and ship it to the recipient for you!
FAMILY FRIENDLY As a family business, we feel that it is essential to create a shopping experience that can be enjoyed by the whole family. At Larrimor’s we provide interactive play areas so that your time with us can be more relaxed, and your children can still have fun.
HOME DELIVERY We understand your busy schedule and want to do all we can to lessen the demands on your time. This is why we provide local delivery to your home or office, or we can ship anywhere in the United States.
COMPLIMENTARY ALTERATIONS In order to ensure that the fit is just right, we offer complimentary alterations on all regularly priced clothing. Down to the detail of every stitch, we ensure each article is tailored specifically to you. Our on-site team of world-class tailors is here to give you the perfect fit.
service is paramount It impacts every facet of our business, from our ability to bring you world-class fashions to the friendly, knowledgeable associates who help and guide you. COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP We offer complimentary gift-wrapping for your purchases, on any day you want. You concentrate on choosing the perfect gift; we’ll do the rest.
RETURN POLICY We have a liberal return policy, where you can bring your purchases back if you are not satisfied with them within a reasonable period of time. We want to make sure you love your new items when you get home, as much as you do in the store.
ABUNDANT PARKING To ensure your shopping experience is as stress-free as possible, we provide you with ample validated parking that is both convenient and secure—a real luxury in downtown Pittsburgh.
STORE TO DOOR
When it comes to making sure you look your finest, Larrimor’s is ready to go the extra mile. One phone call is all it takes to bring one of our expert sales associates to your home or office—at your convenience, and at no extra cost.
Our personal shoppers are available to make your experience here as effortless as possible. For your convenience, they will preselect a wardrobe to fit your clothing needs, and place the garments in a private fitting room. Once our associates have learned your style and needs, they can keep an eye out for specific items you might be looking for in the future.
Individual or group appointments are available. To schedule, call us at 412.471.5727 or email TMichael@Larrimors.com.
You, our customers and friends, are ultimately at the heart of all that we do, and we strive to exceed your expectations. If for some reason you feel that the level of service we provide does not meet your expectations, please let us know.
LARRIMOR’S ONE PNC PLAZA 249 5TH AVENUE (AT 5TH AVE & WOOD ST)
If you’ll pardon me for tweaking the immortal words of the Declaration of Independence: I hold these truths to be self-evident, that all wardrobes are not created equal. Some men have an unwavering sense of personal style that appears to be hotwired into their DNA, while the sartorially challenged (clearly the majority) can barely coordinate their shirts with their trousers. The Italians call it sprezzatura, this innate ability to make something difficult—like putting together a wardrobe that looks both casual and chic—seem incredibly easy. The ability to dress with style is not so much a matter of genetics as it is an acquired skill. To master the art, one must think of it as a game. To play well, you first need to know the rules.
Rule #3: Feel free to mix patterns on your shirts, jackets and ties. Start out mixing solids, stripes and checks in one color family before moving into the kaleidoscopic fast lane. (Ask your sales associate if you need help!)
Rule #4: Sporty is the new black in menswear, so dress like an athlete even if the closest you ever get to the playing field is through a remote control. Invest in casual pieces like modern sweatshirts and sweaters, and unlined blazers with elbow patches, preferably in opulent materials like cashmere. “It’s all about the illusion of sport. Everybody feels younger dressing in sporty, casual clothes,” explains Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli.
Rule #1: Suits and sportcoats are the foundation of the well-dressed man’s wardrobe. Few understand the art of tailoring better than the Italians, who cut their suits closer to the body, trimmer in the chest and high in the armhole so they fit like a second skin. Pick the style that flatters your shape and always buy the highest quality your bank balance will allow. The hallmarks of fine suit making are easy to spot. Start with the fabric: the finer the cloth, the better the material “drapes.” It’s also the biggest factor in the final cost. Look for canvas inner linings in place of fused or glued components inside the chest, to help retain the jacket’s shape. One way to tell is by pinching the front of the jacket from the bottom front. If you can feel three layers of fabric—the cloth, the lining and the floating canvas inner lining—you’re buying the real deal.
Rule #5: Want to know if a guy is well-dressed? Look down. The first thing a woman notices about a man after his eyes (and sometimes his wallet) is his shoes. Invest in several well-made pairs, both dressy and sporty, preferably in shades of brown, which is the most versatile color. It goes with everything. Monk straps and lace-ups are best with suits; loafers are for sportcoats and jeans. Rotate your footwear as often as your wardrobe allows to keep the leather fresh and supple.
Rule #6: Fit is everything when it comes to denim. Slim cuts in dark washes are dressier, currently on trend and wear well with knitwear and blazers.
Rule #7: Learn to tie a proper tie. It’s all about the knot and the dimple. The knot should be proportionate to the shape of your face and shirt collar. The dimple under the knot shows you took the time to do it right.
Rule #2: When buying a shirt, focus on the collar first. The collar frames the face—your best asset—and should compliment its shape and size. Straight, pointed collars help narrow a round face while spread collars look best with lean faces.
Naturally, it takes practice to become a true paragon of men’s style. Our advice, for both expert and novice, is to start at your favorite men’s shop, pick out the best-dressed sales associate in the room, and let him show you the ropes.
BY BILL KISSEL; IMAGE COURTESY OF BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
HAVE YOUR CAKE
and eat it too.
Weddings by Bella Sera are as unique as the couples we honor! Crowned "Best of Weddings 2013-2015" by The Knot and named a "WeddingWire 2015 Couple's Choice Award" winner, Bella Sera tastefully combines the exact ingredients from which dream weddings are made. Incredible food, extraordinary service and the perfect ambiance, skillfully brought together to create the "beautiful evening" you'll cherish forever. Ask about our amazing Fabulous Friday and Winter Wedding packages! We also host ceremonies, rehearsals and showers. Visit us today!
BELLASERAPGH.COM | (724) 745-5575
LARRIMOR’S FORUM SPRING 2015