Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2015
ESSENTIAL SPRING STYLE LIKE FATHER LIKE SON DESIGNERS HIT THE ROAD
FORUM MAGAZINE SPRING 2015 Relationships continued... In our fall 2014 issue of Forum magazine, I commented on how relationships drive our business: our relationships with clients, staff, vendors and even competitors. What I failed to mention, however, are the relationships within our own families and between the generations. This was pointed out to me by a longtime client and friend whose son is now a client as well, and we decided to highlight two such families starting on page 9. The first family is ours. My son Matt and I have enjoyed working together for many years, as I did with my dad so many years ago, and as he did with my grandfather before that. The Pitino family, Rick and Richard, are also featured in the article. We at Hubert White are so proud to be associated with Richard and his staff at the University of Minnesota—but probably not as proud as Richard’s dad, Rick, is of his son’s successes at the U. And speaking of pride: our 100th anniversary is coming up next year! My grandfather started a little haberdashery shop in downtown St. Paul in November of 1916, and we are now putting together the plans for our centennial celebration in 2016. More on that later... For now, we hope you enjoy our magazine, and always remember that at Hubert White customers are friends and staff are family. See you in the shop,
Bob White, Owner
CONTENTS Hubert White 747 Nicollet Mall Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1719 612-339-9200 hubertwhite.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA
Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX
9 Like Father Like Son 16 Designers: On the Road 24 Shopping: How to Get the Relationship You Want 38 Book Review: Hug Your Customer, Again!
2 12 14 40 42 44
Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY
FASHION 20 Noteworthy: Canali, Ermenegildo Zegna, Faherty 22 Would You Pass the Modern Fit Test? 26 Spring Essentials 32 Stranded in Style
Welcome Letter Ask Forum The Fashion Forum World Scene Food: Quinoa Craze End Page: The Rules of Style
Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA
Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2015. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 18, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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E D IN A 3 2 1 7 L G a lle r i a
WAY Z ATA 2 0 2 S u p e r i o r B o u lev a rd
LIKE FATHER LIKE SON ~ Substance and Style ~ I remember when my father took me to my first college basketball game at Williams Arena. I was eight years old. We sat in the first row, right on the floor behind the basket, and watched Lou Hudson dunk a basketball and get called for a technical foul. I was hooked. It was a father and son moment. We at Hubert White love our fathers and sons. We are a relationship business and it is for this reason that we get to serve both. Fathers grow up with us and bring their sons to the store for the same reasons that they enjoy the Hubert White experience. It is as special for us as it is for them. In this first installment of Like Father Like Son, we are excited to present two of our favorites: Rick and Richard Pitino, and Bob and Matt White. ~ Hubert White
The renowned Rick Pitino takes an unorthodox seat in the barn as an emotional fan and booster of his son, Richard. â€œThis is a very special but nerve-racking moment,â€? said Pitino when asked about watching his son coach the Golden Gophers for the first time.
A proud father and mother join Richard in Madison Square Garden, where he led Minnesota to the 2014 NIT Championship. Rick Pitino could not get over how his emotions ran from excited to proud to absolutely anxious. Richard could not get over his father yelling from two rows back like a rabid fan who was demanding time in the huddle!
Photography provided by University of Minnesota Athletics
At first glance you think they might be brothers. They discovered the store through the Hubert White shipping department, both as mere teenagers. The similarity ends quickly. Matt is a true style aficionado, a social media master and schooled in all that is fashion, food and lifestyle. Bob is a lifelong merchant who understands the art of team building and the formula for success. He knows that blue is the best-selling color, has started to wear slim suits and recently discovered he owns an iPad.
I’m so confused about tie widths: how wide should they be for 2015?
Slim down your neckwear for a more modern look.
It is a bit confusing since there are various widths that are now acceptable, depending on the width of your jacket lapel and the type of shirt collar. One thing is certain, however: acceptable widths have been narrowing for the past several years. We like 8.5 cm (3.35 inches) as a good go-to width for most of today’s suits and sportcoats (the hipster look is decidedly narrower); just a few seasons back it was 9.5 cm (3.75 inches). Visit us for some new neckwear that will keep you up to date!
I noticed lots of young guys walking around without Q: socks last summer. Aside from the
hygiene aspect, is this no-sock look sartorially acceptable? (Won’t guys ruin their shoes, not to mention their feet?)
It’s definitely a fashion look among trendsetters, so much so, in fact, that we now sell no-show socks that hit below the ankle and give a sockless appearance while protecting both your shoes and your feet. If you’re going for this trendy look, we suggest buying some no-show socks. That said, we prefer the look of a classic or whimsical sock with both dress and casual shoes (and sport socks with athletic shoes). Especially in 2015 when there are so many fashionforward options in color and pattern, why not make a sock statement? Let your hosiery reflect your personality!
My staple clothing item for spring is a navy blazer: what more do I need?
You’ve got the right idea! A navy blazer can take you virtually anywhere: throw it over a polo shirt for lunch at the golf club or over a dress shirt for a nice dinner out. What more do you need? How about a brighter shade of blue for an upbeat summer alternative, and/or a lightweight cashmere blazer (once again, go blue) for that extra touch of softness and style? While three blue blazers might seem excessive, trust us: you’ll get so many compliments, you just might come back for more.
I have a formal wedding coming up this summer: do I need a new tux or can I wear what’s in my closet?
If you haven’t purchased a tux in a few years, you definitely need a new one. Today’s models are slimmer, lighter weight and more comfortable than the ones you own and the fabrics are more beautiful. Lapel options are numerous (peak, shawl, traditional) so try on a few to see which is most flattering. Another way to modernize: try navy instead of black.
IMAGE BY GMD THREE STUDIOS; TIE BY ETON
SPRING 2015 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
Athleisure has been dubbed the trend in menswear fashion for spring 2015.
ALL ABOUT BOWIE
David Bowie Is, a traveling exhibition created by the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, is also a documentary filmed on the last night of the V&A exhibition covering Bowie’s career as “one of the most pioneering and influential performers of our time.” In addition to displaying over 400 objects (including photography, album art, original fashions and handwritten lyrics), the exhibition includes video installations “to create an immersive journey through Bowie’s artistic life.” David Bowie Is highlights the musician’s influence on all aspects of the arts and popular culture. Since Chicago was the only U.S. city to host the exhibition (at its Museum of Contemporary Art), the documentary was created to give an insiders’ view to people who couldn’t attend. Say the exhibition’s curators, Victoria Broackes and Geoffery Marsh, “We are delighted that as this extraordinary exhibition travels the world, people will get the chance to immerse themselves in a cinematic experience from the original London show. The film offers fascinating detail about key objects from the David Bowie archive, commentary from special guest contributors and a fantastic soundtrack!” —EMD
This active-inspired style is street chic: think tailored sweatpants and joggers, technical outerwear, modern fleece tops, performance fabrics and designer sneakers. And while you might appear to be headed to the gym, the luxe fabrics and stylistic designs make it so you don’t have to. Michael Fisher from Fashion Snoops, a New York-based trend forecasting agency, explains athleisure as “a subtle technical approach that comes alive in interesting fabric combinations, pieced construction and lightweight layers that mimic the sportif lifestyle.” Come into the store and we’ll help you achieve this active look without breaking a sweat. —EMD
DAVID BOWIE IS IMAGES BY NATHAN KEAY COURTESY OF MCA CHICAGO; RUNWAY IMAGE COURTESY OF ZEGNA
the FASHION forum
Labor of Love IMAGE COURTESY OF KENTON MICHAEL
Men of the Cloth, a poignant documentary about Italian master tailors directed by Vicki Vasilopoulos, is must-see viewing for anyone who appreciates fine men’s clothing. This story of artistry, passion and pride is sure to inform and inspire. The painstaking process of creating a hand-crafted suit that conforms to the body and enhances the male form is broken down step-by-step by dedicated old-world craftsmen who fear that this expertise will vanish when they do. Fortunately, today’s resurgence of popular interest in artisanal craftsmanship as an alternative to mass production provides hope for the future of this venerable art form. Check out MenofTheClothFilm.com for screenings; the film will also be available on DVD and streaming from iTunes and Amazon.
HOT TREND: BRACELETS Spring is the season to show off your wrists as bracelets become the latest trend in men’s accessories. You can be creative with styling this look, as there’s no one way to wear them and there’s no one bracelet to wear. Mix and match different styles and materials—from metals to leathers, beads to stones. Stack them with your watch or call attention to the opposite wrist. The options are endless, so roll up your sleeves and have fun with it. —EMD
COOL SCHOOL Brunello Cucinelli is making it cool to learn the art of tailoring. He’s investing in young talent with his launch of the Solomeo School, a tailoring academy for the next generation of apprentices. In order to open the school, Cucinelli acquired the business branch of Sartoria d’Avenza, an Italian specialty maker of men’s ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits. There are four programs offered at the Solomeo School: two for Cucinelli’s direct business (Mending and Linking, Cutting and Assembly) and two to aid in the future of Solomeo (Horticulture and Gardening, Masonry). Cucinelli says, “The school is meant to be a vivid and concrete experience in which learning a craft occurs in an environment imbued with humanistic values… Like workshops back in the Renaissance, these are a noble expression of craftsmanship, halfway between art and technique; they complete the human, cultural and spiritual training that, I hope, might stir in our youth the desire to grow up and question itself, the honesty to admit one’s mistakes, the ability to use manual skills to serve intelligence and to be ‘concretely creative.’” The first program runs from October 2014 to June 2015. By training craftsmen for the future, Cucinelli intends to keep the quality in the craft, and in his apparel collections, for years to come. —EMD
ON THE ROAD
OUR FAVORITE MEN OF STYLE SHARE THEIR SUMMER ESCAPE PLANS. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE SAM KU, AG Adriano Goldschmied Where are you off to? After shooting our spring 2015 ad campaign with Daria Werbowy in Montauk, I felt that it would be a great place to bring my family in the summer. I’m from Los Angeles, so the beaches on the East Coast have such a different, romantic vibe. Also, the Hamptons have some amazing golf courses!
What are you most excited to do on this trip? The area is so chic, but laid-back at the same time. I like checking out the boutiques on Main Street, having a lobster roll at one of the many amazing seafood spots, and enjoying lots of beach time. I’m looking forward to soaking it all in, and hopefully running into Ina Gartner, The Barefoot Contessa—my wife’s absolute favorite.
What book or music will you bring along to help you unwind? When driving around, I’m sure we’ll put on a pretty wide variety of music. I have a seven-year-old daughter and a four-year-old son. When we’re on a long car ride, we’ll hook up Spotify and each person gets to pick a song that we all have to listen to. We’ll play everything from Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros to Bob Marley to the Disney Cars soundtrack, even some Miley. It’s the craziest range of music you’ll ever hear.
What are your must-pack items? My everyday jeans are the Nomad in a raw denim from Kaihara, an amazing Japanese mill. I’ve worn this particular pair for about a year, nearly every day, and the wear marks are beautiful. Another must-pack item would be cashmere layering pieces from our Made in Italy collection; nothing keeps you the perfect temperature like cashmere does. For the course, I’m looking forward to breaking out some attire from our new men’s golf brand, AG Green Label. Everything in the collection has the performance element needed for the course, while still looking sharp and modern so I can head straight to dinner with the family after my round.
ANDREA BENEDINI, Luigi Bianchi Mantova Where are you off to? I am planning a relaxing trip because in January I became a father for the second time. I will spend part of the summer with the whole family at a resort in Portugal.
What are you most excited to do on this trip? I am very excited to see Lisbon and the ocean, and do very simple things like walking on the beach. I believe everything can be an adventure with my two-year-old daughter and my newborn.
What book or music will you bring along to help you unwind? I rarely listen to music but I absolutely need to have a few good books with me at all times. I will make space in my luggage for Georges Simenon for sure, and probably a couple of Portuguese authors, to better appreciate and get closer to the local culture. Josè Saramago and Fernando Pessoa will be good friends indeed.
What are your must-pack items? I have three favorites. I will bring with me two L.B.M. 1911 jackets—a neutral one in light beige cotton, and a madras check cotton/linen blazer—then a completely unlined Luigi Bianchi Mantova blazer in Loro Piana fabric. I need it for at least one romantic dinner with my wife! White pants also are a summer must for me.
BOB CORLISS, Robert Talbott Where are you off to? In mid-May I will be traveling to Watkins Glen, NY to participate in one of the Atlantic Championship Series Pro Races for Formula Atlantic. The race takes place at Watkins Glen International, one of the most storied race tracks in history and the site of the first Formula One Grand Prix in America.
What are you most excited to do on this trip? The race itself is exciting, so I’m looking forward to that. But being in this part of the country also provides me the opportunity to interface with some of our Robert Talbott specialty store customers, as well as spend time in our Fifth Avenue Showroom in New York City.
What book or music will you bring along to help you unwind? I’m reading The Century Trilogy by Ken Follett. By May I expect to be reading the third book in the series, Edge of Eternity.
What are your must-pack items? Our Robert Talbott Marin Soft Coat is something I take on every trip. It’s a must-have because of its versatility, comfort, fit and style. It pairs well with denim and can be dressed up or down as needed.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, Brunello Cucinelli Where are you off to? For summer vacations, I love Sardegna, Corsica and Greece. I find that the islands in the Mediterranean have such a magical atomosphere.
What are you most excited to do on this trip? To take the opportunity to relax and read, take walks and enjoy the environment. I love to get lost in my thoughts.
What books will you bring along to help you unwind? For sure The Memories of Adriano by Marguerite Yourcenar. I always bring this with me as well the Meditations of Marco Aurelius.
What are your must-pack items? A bathing suit in a high-quality technical fabric, a beach towel in soft cotton and a cashmere scarf for a breezy evening chatting amongst friends.
SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, Eton Where are you off to?
I will be going to Japan for two weeks where I’ll visit Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and venture up Mount Fuji.
What are you most excited to do on this trip? I’m most excited about going up Mount Fuji, visiting Zen temples and looking at traditional architecture.
What book or music will you bring along to help you unwind? The two books will be Jiddu Krishnamurti’s The Only Revolution and Alan Watts’ autobiography In My Own Way. I will most likely be listening to a whole lot of Swedish music, such as Trail of Feathers and Ebba Grön. I always listen to Chopin, Tom Waits and Muddy Waters, and have been for years!
What is your must-pack item? A black linen shirt with a button-down collar.
GIANLUCA ISAIA, Isaia Where are you off to? When you live two minutes away from your newly opened boutique on Capri, it is very hard to go anywhere else! I love having a coffee or aperitivo with our customers as they enhance their personal style and choose fabrics. I love seeing what they choose.
What else do you enjoy doing there? In Capri the must-go spots are Blu Grotto, Aurora Restaurant for dinner, and the Axel Munthe villa.
What book or music will help you unwind? Since I love live music, you will most likely find me at Taverna Anema e Core where the Neapolitan music is fantastic. Make sure to spend one crazy night there when you are in Capri.
What is your must-pack item? I never leave without my handmade leather sandals. I even wear them with suits when it is not summer! (I think George Clooney tried to do this one time too... I will not say which one of us looked better.) We created an Isaia leather sandal that is simple, yet fun and elegant, that I take with me everywhere.
ARNOLD SILVERSTONE, Samuelsohn Where are you off to? No plans for the summer months, but each September I go to the Italian Alps to race with the Ferrari club, which is an incredible experience.
What are you most excited to do on this trip? This past year I raced with the new Ferrari F12—a 700 horsepower, 12 cylinder powerhouse. Who knows what new toy they’ll have for me next September!
What book or music will you bring along to help you unwind? The sound of the engine is my favorite music.
What are your must-pack items? The Samuelsohn Performance 12-pocket blazer is my ultimate travel companion. It is wrinkle and water resistant, versatile and perfect for all occasions.
CANALI: SOPHISTICATED OFFHAND STYLE Canali has a new creative consultant, Andrea Pompilio, whose talent is widely recognized in the fashion world. As a careful observer of life, Pompilio draws his inspiration from the small everyday gestures and individual expressions of people he encounters on the streets of big cities throughout the world. His talent lies in his ability to give a twist to the classic male wardrobe, reinterpreting shapes, fabrics, patterns and classic colors in an unconventional and unexpected way. Pompilio’s spring ’15 collection is an intersection of existing heritage and newfound inspiration. It fuses the values and excellence of classic tailoring with the unstructured elegance of leisure. He enjoys finding the perfect balance between these two worlds, brought together by complementary attraction. Starting with the Canali man’s refined attention to detail, Pompilio designs clothing to bring out the unexpected aspects of his style. The lines on suits and sportcoats are soft, lean and comfortable, often featuring checks or horizontal stripes. Trousers rest just at the ankle and are finished with a particularly high (8 cm) cuff. Rounding out the collection are colorful oversized sweaters, casually exquisite shoes in nubuck crocodile or soft two-tone calfskin, parkas, light jackets and long car coats worn over ultra-fine cashmere T-shirts, all glowing with the radiant palette of a Mediterranean summer. For guys who appreciate sophisticated classics but long to express their own personality, the new Canali collection is sure to please.
Above: designer Andrea Pompilio
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA: LUXURY MEETS TECHNOLOGY Already the world’s preeminent maker of luxury menswear, Zegna knows a thing or two about innovation and evolution. For spring/summer 2015, check out their luxurious high-tech fabrics, exclusive patterns, rich new color palette (teal, mauve, shades of blue mixed with light gray, forest green, indigo and camel) and blending of modern design with old-world craftsmanship. Among the many must-haves in store for the season: lots of versatile lightweight outerwear. Styles include sophisticated safari jackets, city coats and blazers; fabrics feature Zegna’s exclusive Trofeo cloth bonded with a breathable membrane (40 percent lighter than previous versions), making these jackets trans-seasonal, water-resistant and very contemporary. If you haven’t bought a warm weather suit lately, now’s the time! Zegna’s summer suits and trousers are made from virtually weightless fabrics including soft, naturally elastic, high-performance wool (15.5 microns) and Trofeo mohair (both surprisingly cool). Seersucker and micro-patterns add a dimension that’s elegant, refined and individually expressive. Most important: Zegna’s soft unlined sportcoats in somewhat shorter lengths will update your image, whether you’re dressing up or dressing down. The finishing summer touches: a silk/cotton tie, polished leather shoes with inverted seams (or sneakers with contrast details if you’re feeling sporty) and the quintessential soft leather bag.
FAHERTY: TWICE AS NICE Twin brothers Alex and Mike Faherty launched Faherty in 2013 as a luxurious weekend-wear brand. Mike was a designer for Ralph Lauren’s RRL brand, so he brings that casual luxe vibe to the collection. Faherty’s fabric patterns are all designed by Mike, and as Alex (who handles the business side) explains, “They’re colorful and appealing to a wide range of guys. Our shirting is soft and buttery; our washes make new shirts feel old but still luxurious.” For spring, Faherty is evolving from its beautiful woven shirts to knits like indigo polo shirts that feel “manly and traditional.” Another must-have is the brand’s All Day short. The brothers developed a quick-dry fabric for a short that acts as a hybrid between a cotton chino and a swimsuit. Available in five colors (olive, khaki, charcoal, baby blue and Nantucket red), this short will quickly become an essential part of your weekend wardrobe.
SPRING 2015 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.®
WOULD YOU PASS THE
MODERN FIT TEST? ANSWER THE QUESTIONS BELOW TO FIND OUT IF YOUR SUIT IS MAKING YOU LOOK OLDER, HEFTIER, OUT OF SHAPE, OR SIMPLY OUT OF DATE.
The width of the shoulders (point to point) should complement your body. If padding is extending the suit shoulders beyond your natural shoulders, then your suit is too old.
Lapels are slimmer, though your personal style will dictate how slim. If you can make the leap, try combining slim lapels and narrower ties for a sharp, stylish look. You’ll be surprised at how this takes years off your perceived age.
Sleeves are trimmer and armholes higher than before. This is how Europeans have been wearing their suits for years, allowing for arm movement so you don’t lift up your entire jacket each time you raise your arms.
Modern dress pants should sit a bit lower on the waist and end higher off the ground than before, so forget the old rules about where pants should break. We like to say that the bottom of the pant should “caress” the top of the shoe. The good news: people can see more of that fabulous footwear you’re now wearing.
If you failed this test or have any questions, come in and try on some modern clothing. We guarantee that you’ll see, and appreciate, the difference. .
IMAGE COURTESY OF LUIGI BIANCHI MANTOVA
Take the button test. If, when you button your two-button suit, the bottom button hits at or below your waistline, it’s definitely time to shop for new clothing. Also, with your arms down, the bottom of your jacket should reach your knuckles, not your fingertips.
HOW TO GET THE RELATIONSHIP YOU WANT
WE CAN’T HELP YOU WITH LOVE OR MARRIAGE, BUT WE CAN CERTAINLY IMPROVE AN EQUALLY ESSENTIAL RELATIONSHIP: THE ONE BETWEEN YOU AND YOUR CLOTHING SALESPERSON! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
Consider this: There’s probably just one person in the universe who truly wants you to look fabulous all the time. Yes, he also
wants to sell you stuff, but he knows that if you don’t look and feel terrific in your purchase, you’re less likely to come back to the store or give referrals. This person, if inspired, can make your life easier and more fulfilling. Hard to believe? Then you haven’t maximized your relationship with your primary sales associate. Here, a few tips to get you started. • First and foremost: If you don’t have a preferred sales associate, find one. It’s as simple as walking around the selling floor and approaching an associate whose style you admire, someone you can relate to and feel comfortable with. (The other option is to ask the store owner and let him make the match.) • Make an in-store appointment with this person. Your time is valuable and there’s no need to start from scratch each time you need something. Then let him know how you prefer to communicate— phone, email, text, etc.—and how often. • Over-communicate with your sales associate at the beginning, providing as much information as possible about your life, job, fashion preferences, favorite brands, comfort level for experimentation and favorite items (around which to build a future wardrobe). • If you’re comfortable with it, indulge in a closet consultation where your sales associate comes to your home and goes through your wardrobe. The goal is to give away clothing that no longer works (your college sweatshirt and Landlubber jeans, those DB suits with huge padded shoulders) and to fill in with a few new items to ultimately update your image. You’ll be amazed at how liberating it feels to clear the clutter! • Be open to trying new things. We all get stuck in fashion ruts and
IMAGE COURTESY OF LARRIMOR’S
have trouble envisioning ourselves in a new look. But trust us: a small change can make all the difference! Even a minor adjustment (a different collar spread, a new color tie or sweater, slimmer-fit trousers, cool shoes) can greatly modernize your appearance. • Don’t forget to share your wedding anniversary and spouse’s birthday: your sales associate can make you a hero at least twice a year!
This Swedish shirt brand is all the rage. Count on Eton for quality craftsmanship and impeccable design.
SPRING ESSENTIALS Top Picks for 2015
PT01 TRAVELER PANT
ROLEX/ TOM Oâ€™NEAL
Equally at ease with a crewneck sweater or shirt and tie, the color, comfort and fit of these perfect pants will take you far.
Stay polished and comfortable in a stretch jersey blazer. Wear with a sport shirt and five-pocket pants, or with a tee and trainers.
BOGLIOLI K JACKET
This must-have travel jacket packs and unpacks with ease. Youâ€™ll look put together every step of the way.
Skip the heavy jeans and switch to fivepocket pants in muted summer shades of blue and green.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GMD THREE STUDIOS. STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY. COPY BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE. GROOMING BY JULIANNA GROGAN. MODELS WALTER SAVAGE AND ANDREA DENVER @ SOUL MODEL MANAGEMENT
LIGHTWEIGHT GRAY SUIT
Don’t sweat through summer in your heavy wool suits. Specially designed to be breezy and breathable, try with a polo for elevated comfort.
STYLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC
STYLING BY WENDY MCNETT & WILLIAM BUCKLEY HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY
TIMELESS as the SEA
TEXTURES found in NATURE
HUG YOUR CUSTOMER, AGAIN!
AND AGAIN! IN OUR TECHNOLOGY-DRIVEN ERA, THE RE-RELEASE OF THIS 10-YEAR-OLD CLASSIC REINFORCES THE VALUE OF RELATIONSHIP SELLING. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN stores 3,000 miles across America during the worst recession of our time, and more recently launched a highly personalized interactive website that somehow manages to convey their culture of hugging through cyberspace. The essence of the book is tough to sum up; it’s Mitchell’s marvelous anecdotes that bring it to life. Among my favorites: the time he opened the store on a Sunday just so a woman could buy her irate husband new underwear. (She was in the process of moving and had inadvertently packed and shipped all his boxers…) It was a small sale but Jack was happy to make it, theorizing that he might have saved a marriage! (Editor’s note: How did this stranger reach the store owner on a Sunday? A family member’s personal phone number is always on the store answering machine after hours.) And the time when, with the CEO of a luxury cruise line, Mitchell came up with the idea of lending tuxedos to male passengers (and offering on-board alterations) in order to raise the bar on dress code. The concept worked brilliantly, despite the fact that they didn’t offer footwear; guys would show up for dinners in their elegant tuxes worn with brown boat shoes or scuffed sneakers. Still, once seated, they looked great in the professional photos. The elevated mood among passengers jumpstarted sales in the casino and throughout the ship, as well as bookings for future cruises. Thinking out of the box, cooperation instead of competition, creating a hugging culture, challenges not problems, the power of new: there’s much to learn from this wonderful book. “I’ve added some new insights and fresh stories to the updated edition,” notes Mitchell, who defines a hug as any personal touch that impresses or delights. “But the key message I want to convey is that hugging worked 10 years ago, it’s working today and I believe it will work 100 years from now. So try it! It might start out as a business strategy but it quickly becomes a way of life.”
About 10 years ago, a second-generation specialty store apparel merchant based in Westport, Connecticut wrote a little book on customer service. The inspiration for so doing was an industry conference that predicted online retailing would soon put brick and mortar stores out of business. Jack Mitchell was one of the speakers but he didn’t buy into the premise: his family’s two apparel stores were among the most successful in the country, if not the world. Yet their secret was neither high-tech nor profound: treat customers first as people, then as clients. Caring inspires loyalty, which inspires increased sales. The initial version of Hug Your Customers: The Proven Way to Personalize Sales and Achieve Outstanding Results is now in its 17th printing, having sold well over 200,000 copies in North America and tens of thousands around the world (Brazil, Japan, China, Russia, Mexico, the UK, even Estonia!). What’s more, Jack Mitchell suddenly became a highly sought-after motivational speaker who has presented at more than 200 conferences around the globe. Why? In this writer’s opinion, the book is not just a guide to personalized selling but, in a very real sense, a manual for living a more meaningful life. I know it’s changed mine. “The heart of the re-release is the same as the original but with a new preface and, ironically, a new take on technology, the very thing that many predicted would put specialty stores out of business,” says Mitchell. Since the book’s original publication, the Mitchells purchased two iconic
THIS BOOK, WRITTEN BY OUR FRIEND AND COLLEAGUE JACK MITCHELL, REFLECTS OUR THEORY OF PERSONALIZED SELLING AND CAN REVOLUTIONIZE YOUR BUSINESS.” —Brad Sherman, Hubert White
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
Experience life’s little luxuries. THE LATEST SCOOP Ice cream is one of the great joys of spring and summer. (Actually, it brings joy all year.) Perhaps you’ve heard of High Road Craft Ice Cream, considered by many foodies to be the best in America. Chef Keith Schroeder originally created the artisanal treats just for chefs, but word spread and fascinating flavors such as Pistachio Honey Ricotta, Mango Chili Lime and Bourbon Burnt Sugar, along with elevated classics (think Vanilla Fleur de Sel), are now available to the public. What you might not know is that High Road also crafts bespoke ice cream. You can request your favorite ingredients, or if you’ve discovered a rare chocolate or happen to grow pecans in your backyard, supply your own. May we suggest chocolate with chocolate topped with chocolate?
MOSEY OUT WEST AND SIT A SPELL
Feel a hankering to get away from it all? Looking for peace and serenity? Big Sky Resort in southwest Montana, between Bozeman and West Yellowstone, is famous for skiing in winter and also offers a tranquil getaway during the warmer months. Half Hitch Home, one of the resort’s Signature Lodging Properties, is a three-level log house that boasts five bedrooms, five bathrooms, two full kitchens, a theater room with seating for eight, an exercise room, a game room, a spacious sunroom with hot tub, and three living rooms decorated in the western style. A private concierge will arrange transportation and deliveries of groceries and liquor (a wine connoisseur chooses wines from the resort’s impressive selection), schedule a masseur and book a Montanatrained chef who specializes in preparing wild game such as bison, elk and pheasant. Sounds as fine as cream gravy.
THE SHOW GOES ON The Signature Theater in Arlington, Virginia is renowned for its definitive Sondheim productions, inventive adaptations of overlooked or forgotten works, and fresh new projects. The theater takes big musicals and presents them in an intimate setting (with seating for only 275) without stripping down the cast or the orchestra. Signature also offers education and outreach programs that engage the area’s increasingly diverse population and target those traditionally underserved by the arts. As part of its 25th anniversary celebration, this spring Signature Theater is putting on quite a show, presenting the world premiere of Soon by Nick Blaemire, Kander and Ebb’s Cabaret, and Simply Sondheim, a brand-new Stephen Sondheim revue featuring six performers and a 16-piece orchestra. Bravo… bis.
A HISTORICAL FEAST Tugu Kunstkring Paleis in Jarkarta is celebrating its 100th anniversary (it was inaugurated in 1914 by the Dutch governor). Now under the management of Tugu Hotels & Restaurants Group, this legendary structure includes a gallery for art exhibitions, Suzie Wong bar, Ban Lam wine shop, bread corner and a restaurant that offers the Betawi Grand Rijsttafel, a sumptuous social feast that used to be celebrated by the Dutch plantation landlords when they hosted honorable guests in the 1900s. This special menu arrangement consists of 12 to 24 different dishes, presented by 12 waiters dressed in costumes from the period of colonial Java. Somehow, they find time between courses to perform traditional dances.
THE ONLY WAY TO FLY
If first class leaves you feeling a little cramped, reserve the Residence on Etihad Airways. Measuring 125 square feet, the Residence provides a living room, separate double bedroom and shower room, all with luxurious appointments. A touchscreen control unit operates the ambient lighting and window shading, adjusts seat position and firmness, and activates the in-seat massage functions. You’ll have access to broadband with internet mobile and data capability, live TV, HDMI, an AC outlet and USB ports. A butler, combining the roles of concierge and maitre d’hotel after training at the Savoy Butler Academy in London, handles the details and plans your menu. To ensure a really cozy night’s sleep, the Residence will even provide jammies.
THIS ANCIENT GRAIN IS EXPERIENCING A GLOBAL SURGE IN POPULARITY. BY JACQUELINE FRATINI bitter taste. To cook quinoa, use two cups of water for every one cup of rinsed seeds and boil, stirring occasionally, until the quinoa absorbs the water and becomes soft.
QUINOA POWER SALAD 1½ cups quinoa, rinsed 2 avocados 1 pint cherry tomatoes 8 oz. baby spinach ½ red onion 1 or 2 lemons 1 can of corn 1 can of black beans Salt and pepper to taste Cook quinoa in 3 cups of water. Once boiling, reduce to a simmer and stir continuously. Cube both avocados and halve cherry tomatoes, then add to a large bowl. Mix in baby spinach; add more if desired. Finely chop red onion and add to bowl. Drain and rinse beans and corn; add to bowl. Cut lemon in half; squeeze juice over the mixture and stir. Add cooked and cooled quinoa. Season with salt and pepper, and mix all ingredients together. Add more lemon to taste. Serve immediately. Makes 3 to 4 servings.
ABOVE IMAGE I-STOCK; INSET IMAGE SHUTTERSTOCK
For those who want a nutritious yet filling food to kickstart a healthy diet before swimsuit season heats up: look no further. Although quinoa (pronounced keen-wah) dates back over 3,000 years, 2013 was named “The International Year of Quinoa” by The Food and Agricultural Organization of the United Nations. And it’s only gotten bigger since. This super food, referred to as the “mother of grains,” is an organic, gluten- and GMO-free seed packed full of nutrients. Not only does it contain numerous antioxidants and all nine amino acids (making it a complete protein), it’s also high in fiber and has a low glycemic index, all good qualities for weight loss and improved health. This versatile grain works in both sweet and savory dishes and comes in different varieties, white being the most common. Red quinoa tends to hold its shape better when cooked, which is beneficial for making certain dishes like cold salads. Black quinoa is sweeter than any other type of the seed. Nutritional value varies slightly by type, but one recommended serving size of cooked quinoa (about ¼ cup) has an average of 170 calories with high amounts of protein and potassium. Quinoa is a perfect option to replace starches with less nutritional value like rice, pasta and oatmeal. Pre-seasoned quinoa is available at most health food stores, as is puffed quinoa, which is great for making healthy snacks like quinoa crispy treats (rather than rice crispy treats). Plain quinoa has little flavor, so it can be added to almost any dish to increase nutritional value without affecting the taste. Be sure to check whether your quinoa comes pre-rinsed. If not, rinse before using to discard the natural coating quinoa carries, called saponin, which may cause a
If you’ll pardon me for tweaking the immortal words of the Declaration of Independence: I hold these truths to be self-evident, that all wardrobes are not created equal. Some men have an unwavering sense of personal style that appears to be hotwired into their DNA, while the sartorially challenged (clearly the majority) can barely coordinate their shirts with their trousers. The Italians call it sprezzatura, this innate ability to make something difficult—like putting together a wardrobe that looks both casual and chic—seem incredibly easy. The ability to dress with style is not so much a matter of genetics as it is an acquired skill. To master the art, one must think of it as a game. To play well, you first need to know the rules.
Rule #3: Feel free to mix patterns on your shirts, jackets and ties. Start out mixing solids, stripes and checks in one color family before moving into the kaleidoscopic fast lane. (Ask your sales associate if you need help!)
Rule #4: Sporty is the new black in menswear, so dress like an athlete even if the closest you ever get to the playing field is through a remote control. Invest in casual pieces like modern sweatshirts and sweaters, and unlined blazers with elbow patches, preferably in opulent materials like cashmere. “It’s all about the illusion of sport. Everybody feels younger dressing in sporty, casual clothes,” explains Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli.
Rule #1: Suits and sportcoats are the foundation of the well-dressed man’s wardrobe. Few understand the art of tailoring better than the Italians, who cut their suits closer to the body, trimmer in the chest and high in the armhole so they fit like a second skin. Pick the style that flatters your shape and always buy the highest quality your bank balance will allow. The hallmarks of fine suit making are easy to spot. Start with the fabric: the finer the cloth, the better the material “drapes.” It’s also the biggest factor in the final cost. Look for canvas inner linings in place of fused or glued components inside the chest, to help retain the jacket’s shape. One way to tell is by pinching the front of the jacket from the bottom front. If you can feel three layers of fabric—the cloth, the lining and the floating canvas inner lining—you’re buying the real deal.
Rule #5: Want to know if a guy is well-dressed? Look down. The first thing a woman notices about a man after his eyes (and sometimes his wallet) is his shoes. Invest in several well-made pairs, both dressy and sporty, preferably in shades of brown, which is the most versatile color. It goes with everything. Monk straps and lace-ups are best with suits; loafers are for sportcoats and jeans. Rotate your footwear as often as your wardrobe allows to keep the leather fresh and supple.
Rule #6: Fit is everything when it comes to denim. Slim cuts in dark washes are dressier, currently on trend and wear well with knitwear and blazers.
Rule #7: Learn to tie a proper tie. It’s all about the knot and the dimple. The knot should be proportionate to the shape of your face and shirt collar. The dimple under the knot shows you took the time to do it right.
Rule #2: When buying a shirt, focus on the collar first. The collar frames the face—your best asset—and should compliment its shape and size. Straight, pointed collars help narrow a round face while spread collars look best with lean faces.
Naturally, it takes practice to become a true paragon of men’s style. Our advice, for both expert and novice, is to start at your favorite men’s shop, pick out the best-dressed sales associate in the room, and let him show you the ropes.
BY BILL KISSEL; IMAGE COURTESY OF BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS
HUBERT WHITE FORUM SPRING 2015