Forum/The Substance of Style/FW 2017/18
MAKE AN ENTRANCE
IN FALL’S BEST FASHIONS INSIDE JOB
A LOOK AT ETON’S CUTTING-EDGE PRODUCTION
FOR WORK AND WEEKENDS
Official menswear of the LA Galaxy Jelle Van Damme / Ariel Lassiter / Gyasi Zardes / Brian Rowe
Made to Measure
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Karen Alberg Grossman MANAGING EDITOR
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Travel: Hit the Road
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FEATURES 12 18 20 22 42 46
Profile: Eleventy Profile: Torino Profile: Eton Made to Measure: Have it Your Way Gifts: Ultimate Luxuries Wine: Futures Tense
FASHION 24 Dressing Up, Dressing Down 36 5 Fall Icons
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Welcome Letter Ask Forum The Fashion Forum Travel: Hit the Road Wheels: Driving Nostalgia At Your Service End Page: Get Smart
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T H E S H I R T M A K E R S I N C E 19 2 8
FALL IS IN FULLSWING here in beautiful Southern California!
With its shorter days and longer nights, fall is a time for slowing down, taking stock of the many good things in our lives, and refocusing on what’s important. So get out from in front of the daily TV news drama and start making good things happen. Celebrate with your family and make time for friends. And when you do, be sure you have some new clothes that make you look sharp and Sign up at feel great: our team can dress you for work and social success. GARYS is also the best garysonline.com place to find leather goods, shoes, interesting accessories and gifts for yourself (so you or like us on can drop the appropriate holiday hints). Facebook to be the first to know There’s nothing like a made-to-measure suit or jacket to help you look your best when about special events it really counts. Instead of running around town to find something that works, come into and offers! GARYS and choose from hundreds of fabric, color and style options, so that you’re wearing an original and it fits perfectly. Remember, you only get one chance to make a first impression. If you haven’t been in GARYS lately, it’s all new for fall, with the best selection of sportswear in all of Southern California in the latest styles and colors. And remember, one thing you always get for free at GARYS is attentive personal service, a resource that seems to be in very short supply these days. Get to know us better and you’ll discover that we shop the menswear market with you, and the Orange County lifestyle, in mind. Nobody does it better, so let us be the go-to place for all your clothing needs. We wish you a wonderful fall and happy holidays, and we hope to see you soon. J O H N B R A EG E R A N D T H E G A RYS T E A M
P.S. – Don’t forget to visit garysonline.com for our calendar of designer trunk shows and special events. Come in to meet the designers and find one-of-a-kind items that can brighten your season.
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fall 2017 fashion tips for him
We’d recommend one perfect deconstructed blue blazer (it doesn’t have to be navy; there are various new shades of blue) and one subtle plaid sport coat to pair with casual pants (or jeans) and sneakers. What makes a sport coat modern these days is fine performance fabrics, light canvas construction, interesting details and an attitude of nonchalance. There’s also an ineffable characteristic known as “expression,” which refers to the uncontrived way a tailored garment drapes and hits the body. Other things to note: modern fit is body-skimming but not tight, slightly shorter in the arm and body length but not extreme. Come into the store and we’ll help you figure out which models are most flattering for you.
Although everyone seems Q: to be doing it, buying clothes online does not feel quite right to me. Am I crazy? No, you’re not crazy: there’s nothing more satisfying than working in person with a professional style advisor who knows your taste, your body type and your budget, and can therefore help you look your best. But did you know that there are numerous ways you can use technology to enhance
your in-store shopping experience? You can pre-shop collections on our website to save time when you arrive in store. You can email, text or chat with your style advisor to ask questions or set up appointments, in store or at home. You can click through the many fabulous collections on our website and reserve items for in-store shopping. Bottom line: digital support is not intended to circumvent your style advisor, but rather to enhance and improve your in-store shopping experience. Take advantage of it and look better than ever before.
Sneakers seem to be Q: everywhere, but I think they look ridiculous with suits and sport coats. So what should I wear on my feet? Sorry to disagree, but we love sneakers worn with suits and sport coats, especially many of the newer styles that are clearly not meant for the gym! That said, there are numerous other non-sneaker options this fall, including chukka boots for an outdoorsy look, burnished leather laceups for a dressier look and classic loafers for something in between. Another tip: choose neutral shades of brown, which pair perfectly with both navy and gray clothing (and are appropriate with everything but formalwear).
IMAGE COURTESY OF SAMUELSOHN
I don’t wear suits too often anymore but would like to buy a few cool sport coats for fall. What specifically do you suggest?
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A FRESH TAKE
Eleventy is shaking things up in the fashion world! BY K A RE N A L B E RG G ROSSM A N
here are beautiful clothes and then there are clothes that are beyond beautiful. Eleventy founder Marco Baldassari does not view fashion in a vacuum. Instead, he sees fine Italian clothing as an intrinsic reflection of history, culture, art, music, nature and contemporary lifestyle. It’s no wonder, therefore, that a recent Eleventy photo shoot took place in the same marble caves from which Michelangelo took inspiration centuries back. “The color of the marble blended perfectly with our collection,” Baldassari explains. Eleventy fashion is modern but timeless, sophisticated but totally uncontrived. Partnering with the best luxury merchants in the US (which, after only three seasons in business, already generates about 25 percent of total company volume), Baldassari and Eleventy’s North American sales director Geoff Schneiderman have been hitting the road across the country to determine what American customers are looking for in luxury
fashion. What they learned: both men and women seem to want modern classics crafted in the finest fabrics, and a unique blend of comfort and cool. Other buzzwords: soft to the touch, light in weight (“office buildings in the States are overly heated!”) and impressive price/value ratios. (Yes, their prices will surely surprise you...) A key must-have item for fall/winter ’17: the “Laser Blazer,” a totally deconstructed, trim-fit knit jersey sport coat with patch pockets, available in navy and gray. “It feels more like a sweater than a sport coat,” Schneiderman explains. “I wear it all the time because it’s amazingly comfortable but also stylish.” Comfort and style are key factors in how Eleventy’s various components work together. Expect to pair elegant sport coats with fine cashmere hoodies and joggers—surprisingly sophisticated in Donegal tweed! It’s self-expression meets sophistication meets street, a uniquely winning combination in Italian luxury fashion, and one that is sure to impact how Americans dress.
READY, SET, SLALOM!
f you see someone heading down the slopes this winter on skis like nothing you’ve ever seen before, you’re not hallucinating. Pirelli Motorsport and Blossom, a leader in handmade high-performance skis, have partnered to create a remarkable pair of limitededition skis. They feature the iconic stretched P logo on top, an invisible layer of vibration-dampening rubber inserted by Pirelli into the sandwich construction, a double layer of Titanal for stability, and triaxial fiberglass for perfect torsion. The end result is a ski that provides excellent performance on narrow and sweeping turns due to improved fluidity and accuracy, as well as outstanding stability. —BSL
HE BLUE US AWAY
Although the leaves have barely turned, it’s never too soon to think spring! Fresh from the recent Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence and the runways in Milan, here are our top 10 men’s fashion trends for spring ’18:
While he wore the crown as King of Rock ‘n’ Roll somewhat uneasily, there’s little question that Elvis Presley was an extraordinarily talented and legendarily charismatic entertainer. Now, photographer Thom Gilbert has created an intimate look at the culture he created and the legacy he left behind in Blue Suede Shoes (Glitterati Books). The tome is more than a mere visual biography; he smartly pairs personal anecdotes from 75 of Elvis' friends, fellow musicians and fans with portraits of the people whose lives he touched and the objects and artifacts he left behind, including his unforgettable gold lamé jacket and instantly recognizable white jumpsuit. Viva Elvis, indeed! —BSL
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Happy whimsical prints on shirts and swimwear Variations on the banded collar shirt Shorter, wider trousers; shorts for leisure and business Bold stripes in both suits and sportswear Bucket hats, retro shades, lapel pins, bandanas, crossbody fanny packs 6. Open-knit sweaters in linen and linen blends 7. Modified double-breasted suits and sport coats that can be worn open 8. A return to classic footwear, including tassels, monk straps and loafers 9. Mixing active influences with soft tailoring 10. Lightweight, light-color suits with bold accents —KAG
Few names carry the same weight in the world of fashion as Cristóbal Balenciaga, even 45 years after his death. A master of construction and design, the legendary Spanish couturier forever changed the clothing that women wear. In Shaping Fashion, now at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum, viewers can gaze upon over 100 pieces crafted by Balenciaga, including iconic ensembles made for Ava Gardner, dresses and hats belonging to socialite Gloria Guinness, and various pieces worn by one of the world's wealthiest women, Mona von Bismarck, along with work by his former protégées (such as André Courrèges and Emanuel Ungaro) and contemporary fashion designers working in the same innovative tradition, from J.W. Anderson to Nicolas Ghesquière. As an added bonus, the exhibition features a collaboration with X-ray artist Nick Veasey and a digital pattern-making project with the London College of Fashion, both of which reveal the hidden details that helped make Balenciaga's work so exceptional. —BSL VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON
CECIL BEATON STUDIO ARCHIVE AT SOTHEBY’S
LOOK INTO MY CRISTOBAL
A DRIVE FOR GREATNESS
What could make one of the world’s most luxurious automobiles even more coveted? British car manufacturer Rolls-Royce appears to have come up with an ingenious answer: collaborate with nine of Britain’s most revered musicians on a series of bespoke, limited-edition Wraith cars. Among the artists who are taking part in this extra-special partnership are Ronnie Wood (of the Rolling Stones), Sir Ray Davies (of the Kinks), Dame Shirley Bassey and Giles Martin (son of George Martin, the socalled fifth Beatle). Bear in mind: these one-of-a-kind vehicles are more than beautiful objects or even great investments. Rolls-Royce is donating a portion of each car's value to charities selected by the musicians. It’s a win-win-win that should be music to any automobile lover’s ears. —BSL
In addition to gorgeous belts and wallets, Torino Leather celebrates guys, golf and gumbo! BY L E S L E Y R U BE N S T E I N
American alligator belts
much pride. Due to this employee loyalty, Torino Leather was rebuilt on a foundation of artisan experience. “Making belts is a labor-intensive process: the skins and leathers are extremely expensive, so mistakes are costly,” Garner explains. Torino Leather uses the highest-quality Italian calf, Italian woven cotton, and exotic skins such as American bison, South African ostrich, South American caiman, hornback crocodile and American alligator. Each skin is inspected and approved before the belt making begins. Pieces are hand-cut with precision. Each belt has three layers, so the artisan must determine which materials to use in the middle and bottom layers to make the belt soft, pliable, or firm, depending on the skin. Belts are hand-stitched, belt loops are handsewn and buckles are selected and sewn in by hand. Artisans tasked with skiving the exotic skins do so expertly to ensure seamless sides. Even the belt holes are handpainted to perfectly match the color of the leather after it’s been burnished. While Torino is known for its color choices, it’s been mainly through PGA tournaments that their reds, oranges, yellows and greens have made their way onto golf courses. For the last 13 years, Torino has supplied the Zurich Classic of New Orleans with handmade, specialized gifts of custom belts for the players. In addition to his leather goods expertise and a passion for golf, Garner is also famous for his gumbo; he’s been known to serve 50 to 60 pounds of it at a time to friends, family and customers. It’s a special family recipe that he keeps a closely guarded secret... but if you play your cards right, he just might share his recipe for jambalaya!
f you observe a well-dressed gentleman in a boardroom, at a special gathering, or on the golf course, chances are he’s wearing a Torino Leather belt. Known for its versatility, durability, quality and style, Torino’s goods are handmade in a factory located along the Mississippi River in New Orleans. The exterior of the warehouse is deceptively quiet; inside, the building hums with the sounds of artisans expertly cutting, sewing and burnishing fine leathers into belts, wallets and jewelry. Each belt is handmade by a group of artisans who’ve been with the company for many years. An interdependent group that can work in numerous stations, most artisans tend to focus on one or two areas. “They are a dedicated, talented, hardworking group. We even have six members from one family who we’ve worked with for 15 years,” boasts Tom Garner, Torino Leather’s managing director. Like many families, the Torino crew has faced challenges together, most notably rebounding after Hurricane Katrina. The original Torino Belts factory, located in New Orleans East, was under water for six weeks. The city was evacuated, and employees eventually returned to find their homes damaged and belongings lost. Torino Belts closed, but Garner and three other longtime employees moved forward to open Torino Leather. They found a new location, refitted the entire building, purchased new equipment and materials, and opened for business in January 2006. “Every day we experienced disappointments. For a while it was just the four of us working here; eventually everyone returned. Tenacity is what helped us to come back,” Garner explains with
“I would tell my American friends to consider the fit of everything they wear: not too long, too wide, or too boxy.” — Eton creative director Sebastian Dollinger
The story behind the world’s greatest shirt.
t was a difficult time to feed six children during the 1920s Depression. Annie and David Pettersson sat at their kitchen table in Ganghester, Sweden, trying to figure out how to support their family now that the mill was closed. They owned a sewing machine and started crafting dresses for friends, but soon realized that men’s shirts were less seasonal and thus more profitable. Their philosophy was to provide finished shirts to their customers only when perfect. This venture was the genesis of Eton shirts, renowned worldwide for their quality, creativity, performance and fit. Sold in more than 40 countries, Eton continues to expand into new markets based on the Petterssons’ original high standards. Eighty-nine years later, grandson and Eton CEO Hans Davidson and his dynamic team sit at a conference table in Stockholm with top American menswear merchants to discuss the Eton brand at an intensive three-day Eton College experience. In addition to the “academic” portion of the trip, Eton showcased Sweden’s culinary scene, culture and history by hosting meals at landmark restaurants and guiding tours of the historic districts of Gothenburg and Stockholm. Still, the highlight for most was experiencing firsthand the excitement, commitment and passion
BY L E S L E Y RU B E NS T E I N
that Team Eton has for its product and company. “Quality, service, sustainability and responsibility—these are the backbone of everything we do. We want customers to experience the feeling, to understand the heritage, to know that we care about more than product. We are a human company, with a commitment to the customer, the employee and the environment,” shares Davidson. In the design and production part of the presentation, retailers touched a sample of the exceptional cotton used in the making of the shirts. Eton is known for its high-quality fabrics in varied textures and weights as well as for its durability, impeccable styling and array of color options. But it is Eton’s crease-resistant finish that makes the shirts stand out. “The performance of the shirt is what separates it from its competitors,” explains Davidson. “Wash it, put it on, and 15 minutes later the wrinkles are gone.” Unlike most brands, all of Eton’s patterns and fabrics are designed in-house, ensuring exclusivity. White and light blue dress shirts remain the company’s bread and butter, but colors and prints are increasingly popular. For every Eton collection, designers create up to 100 different fabrics. Coupled with different color stitching, buttons and placket trims, there are 600 to 700 variations. Factor in the fit options (classic, contemporary, slim, super-slim) and various collar and
cuff choices, and the collection literally features a few thousand styles! According to Eton creative director Sebastian Dollinger, fit is the secret to dressing well. “I would tell my American friends to consider the fit of everything they wear. It’s important to wear clothes that are not too long, too wide, or too boxy. The average American man wears his clothes on the wide side, whereas many Europeans wear clothes too tight. It would be great to have a happy medium.” For the 2018 Eton collections, designs are inspired by Dollinger’s recent travels, especially the brightly colored houses in Puerto Rico, beautiful tiles from Portugal, Dreams of Persia and Persian carpets, and various locales in Japan. On Eton’s unique corporate culture, Davidson maintains that employees need an inspiring environment to succeed. “People should be proud of where they
John Braeger (left) with Eton’s CEO Hans Davidson.
shirt. This machine was built in-house in the 1950s to flip the shirt collars inside out and create perfect points. In fact, virtually everything at Eton mirrors the company’s philosophy of transparency and openness. Davidson says he’s tried to create an environment where his people are not scared to say anything, where they’re free to think, to challenge and to create. “We’re all
“I was so impressed with how Eton CEO Hans Davidson switched from executive decision-making to team decision-making, valuing employee input, making them part of the process with outstanding results!” J O HN B RA EGER, GA RYS striving for excellence in everything we do. I like to say that I’m the conductor of an orchestra, but I can’t play all the instruments myself.” Thus, Davidson’s philosophy of making his employees part of the process. When there’s a reorganization in staffing, Eton lets its employees help decide where they’d like to work. “We see what their talent is, what they are burning for, and then we talk,” says Davidson. “In this way, employees grow and we see much innovation.” Just as Eton feels a responsibility to its customers and employees, they continually strive to honor the environment. “Taking care of nature is just something we do,” says Davidson. For example, the finishing process of the shirts is environmentally friendly. “We want the water to be the same after we’ve used it as it was before we started,” he says. It also comes down to details: covers for employees’ iPads are made from recycled materials, boxes in the warehouse are reused multiple times and ultimately recycled, a specially outfitted bicycle is used to transport boxes from the factory to the warehouse. “I’m very proud of what my grandfather, father and family have accomplished,” sums up Davidson. “But I’m equally proud of my amazing associates who are open, hardworking, creative and kind. This, more than the balance sheet, is the essence of the Eton company.”
work, whether it’s the boardroom or the warehouse.” In fact, thanks to a multitude of windows, the environment at Eton is all natural light and tree-filled views. Indoors, plants and wooden furniture abound. Another highlight is the cantina: employees eat in a bright, spacious room or dine outside on a covered patio. It’s a gathering place, and a place of community for Eton associates (that once served as a restaurant for the neighbors). Although thousands of boxes are stored and moved in and out of the warehouse, this facility is immaculate. The warehouse was built with windows on all sides so light streams through. To enhance working conditions, the building was made to preclude echoes. Companies throughout Scandinavia view this structure as a model warehouse; many visit the facility to observe its construction and design before building their own. Another Eton hallmark is its unique conveyer system, created years ago to keep up with demand as the company expanded into new markets. The automated system is built on the ceiling to move the shirts to each work station. This proprietary “Eton System” not only transformed the company but is now sold to other companies in various industries. Another unique invention: a folding machine allowing employees to perfectly package the finished
MADE TO MEASURE
Let the world know how much you value yourself. BY B RI A N SCOTT LIP TON
HAVE IT YOUR WAY
Customize fit, fabrics, buttons and linings to your taste.
hat once-famous slogan now seems as applicable to men’s clothing as it does to the Whopper. Specifically, we’re talking about an increased interest in made-tomeasure clothing. Whether it’s picking fabrics, buttons, lining or lapels, more men than ever are taking the time to create a suit that expresses their individual style. Reasons for the growth in this business include more affordable price points than in the past (often only about 20 percent higher than off-therack) and increased visibility of made-to-measure suits on athletes and celebrities, whether they’re walking a red carpet, being interviewed after a game or appearing on a talk show. The primary raison d’etre for made-to-measure remains fit. MTM suits usually require taking anywhere from 15 to 40 measurements, a huge advantage for men whose physique may include droopy, mismatched shoulders, large midsections, muscular thighs, or extra-long legs. Most off-the-rack suits, no matter how well made and how much stretch is incorporated into the fabric, are less than forgiving to those without perfectly proportioned bodies, especially since many manufacturers (specifically Italian brands) are creating fits more suited to slim European bodies than to hefty, or even average, American ones. Today’s MTM customer is anyone from a high-school kid approaching prom to a college grad starting out in the business world to a successful investment banker —indeed, any guy who wants his wardrobe to make a lasting impression. Still, made-to-measure remains a particular favorite of men who work in more creative industries and who view made-to-measure suits as “an opportunity to dream out loud,” as one expert put it. In fact, Millennials, who have shown a desire for so-called “investment dressing,” are among those showing a fondness for made-to-measure clothing. Bottom line: made-to-measure suits appeal to those who want to be excited about what they purchase— and remain excited when they look in their closet later. A good made-to-measure suit can last for years, and can be dressed up or down. Above all else, a made-to-measure suit is a statement of confidence, proving that you know best what complements your style, your body type, and your unique personality. Try it and be uniquely you!
MAK IN G A G RA N D EN T R A N C E
UP DO WN DRESSING
WHETHER YOU’RE HEADED OUT FOR A BIG NIGHT ON THE TOWN OR SOMETHING A BIT MORE CASUAL, A LITTLE DRAMA GOES A LONG WAY TOWARD MAKING YOUR LOOK — AND THE EVENING — UNFORGETTABLE.
PHOTOGRAPHER SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR | MAKEUP BERNADINE BIBIANO WARDROBE WENDY MCNETT
MAKE the WORLD YOUR STAGE
B R U N E L LO C U C I N E L L I
LOSE YOURSELF in Fabulous Fall Textures
I S A I A & B R U N E L LO C U C I N E L L I
Build your wardrobe on a foundation of neutral classics, adding a few fresh pieces each season. Modern styling will keep you looking cool and current year after year.
FA L L I CONS P H O T O G R A P H E R Shane LaVancher F A S H I O N D I R E C T O R Michael Fusco P R O D U C E R Jillian LaRochelle S T Y L I N G A S S I S T A N T Leah Snow G R O O M E R Jojo McCarthy M O D E L Joe Weir for Wilhelmina
1 ELEVENTY COAT, FAHERTY SHIRT, RHONE JOGGER, LANVIN SNEAKER
This pant is the newest must-have in every manâ€™s wardrobe: sleek, comfy and wearable in more ways than one. Elevate your look with a rich camel coat and luxe suede sneakers.
THE WOOL PANT
Neutral-color patterns are surprisingly versatile and so much more exciting than basic black. Wear with a texture on top to stand out from the crowd.
HARRIS WHARF COAT, FAHERTY SWEATER AND THERMAL, PT01 TROUSER, TO BOOT NEW YORK BOOT
CREDIT INFO ISAIA COAT, ETON SHIRT, ELEVENTY PANT
For your next outerwear investment, pick a print, then make it pop against lightcolored solids. A three-quarter length works over your suits and sport coats, yet it doesnâ€™t look silly with denim (like your long black dress coat does).
THE SNAPFRONT SHIRT
Long considered a casual cold-weather staple, why not try this quilted piece between your shirt and sport coat? Itâ€™s an extra layer of warmth, and style.
ELEVENTY SPORT COAT, VEST AND BRACELETS, FAHERTY THERMAL, PT01 TROUSER, TO BOOT NEW YORK BOOT
THE BOOT In a broken-in, burnished leather, this style can be dressed up or down. Cuff your pants to show them off, or better yet: put your feet up and relax awhile.
GIFTS SANITOV E-CARGO BIKE From London-based Danish designer Alexander Host comes this stylish and practical commuter alternative (perfect for the beach house), already popular with celebs like Liev Schreiber and Kate Winslet. The SCB+ model links past and future with built-in smart functions like app-friendly GPS tracking and a hidden motor for hills or heavy loads (up to a whopping 440 pounds). Kid-friendly add-ons like a shaded cover and seat belts are available for safe, comfy rides. $3,400.
We’re all about products and experiences that take your life to the next level. Here are some ways to elevate the everyday, with a touch of style. BY RO B ERT HAY NES -PET ERSO N
PLAYERS CHAMPIONSHIP PLAYERS CLUB
NOBLE AUDIO PRESTIGE
Enjoy one of the world’s top golf tournaments on a whole new level with the first package of its kind offered on the PGA Tour. Membership scores a weekly (Tuesday through Championship Sunday) VIP ticket to TPC Sawgrass (Ponte Vedra Beach, Florida) in May. The details for 2018 were still being finalized at press time, but sample perks include daily access to the TPC Sawgrass Clubhouse and luxury viewing suites along the 17th and 18th holes. Award-winning chefs and bartenders provide endless food and drink each day, and members receive a $500 gift card and private custom fittings at the pro shop. $5,000 per ticket.
Noble Audio has transformed in-ear headphones into high-tech, customizable pieces of art. The California-based manufacturer earned its stripes designing in-ear monitors for professional musicians. Their Prestige line is crafted from exotic woods and other materials, while still offering deep sounds, multiple drivers and precision forms. “Amboyna Burl” earbuds evoke the finest dashboard in a Bentley, or a classic 3-wood. “Spalted Tamarind” includes watch gears embedded in the varnish. Each style is distinctive and a definite conversation starter (if you’re willing to remove them). Starting at $2,800.
EASYPOSE YOGA Wouldn’t it be nice if the yoga studio came to you, whenever you wanted? Now it can: this online/app-based startup from founder Ruben Dia allows you to customize one-hour sessions in your home, yard, beach, pool or office. Choose from a wide range of styles, experience levels and local certified instructors (California and the New York Tri-State area so far, but expanding) and you’ll be striking a Downward Dog within the hour. Like Uber, users rate instructors and provide feedback for others. Starting at $80 per session.
The 2017 release of this high-end M-system camera brings together a lot of features of both favorite Leica analog and digital series into one elegant package. The 10 improves the M-series’ ergonomics, plus offers an enlarged field-of-view rangefinder, expanded menu for sorting files, integrated WiFi connectivity, and a new 24 MP, full-frame CMOS sensor unique to this model, improving all aspects of image performance. Most importantly, it still looks like the coolest digital camera on the block. $6,895.
PLUM WINE STORAGE
BODUM GOLD COFFEE PRESS Not every refined experience needs to cost an arm and a leg. This limited-edition golden Chambord Press from Bodum celebrates the company’s 50th anniversary. While it’s not crafted from actual gold, the dual coating process and bakelite handle ensures this sturdy press pot will wake you up with a touch of glam, even after you throw it in the dishwasher. $59.
Bring home the tech high-end bars and restaurants have been using to serve individual glasses of expensive wine without having to pour the entire bottle in one sitting. Plum attractively stores any standard 750ml wine bottle and its double-cored needle penetrates any closure without removing the foil. A replaceable argon gas canister, good for 200 bottles, injects gas into the remaining bottle space, preserving your wine at the exact temperature you prefer. Meanwhile, the integrated HD camera identifies the bottle label, varietal, vintage and region, and displays on the front. Pour a little, pour a lot: your favorite wine stays ready for another evening. $1,500.
GINSTITUTE / THE DISTILLERY London has witnessed a resurgence of gin distilleries after more than a century without a new one. The creators of Portobello Road Gin have opted out of the traditional visitors’ center for an immersive experience dubbed “The Distillery.” Stay in one of three recently opened bespoke guest rooms (located in trendy Notting Hill), dine at Gintonica, a Spanish-influenced bar/restaurant, and top it off with masterclasses at The Ginstitute: a popular tour, cocktail class and opportunity to make your own custom gin recipe (which you can reorder online once you’ve quaffed the first bottle). From £60 to £120.
Welcome to the world of Bordeaux wine futures.
BY RO BE RT H AY N ES - P ET ERSO N
iving into any investment market—art, cars, Air Jordans—can be intimidating to a newcomer. Such is the case with Bordeaux wine futures, where participants buy into a vintage from a specific winery while it’s still aging in barrels, years before they can drink it. “There’s a perception that it’s only associated with four-digit wines and that you need to go big, investing a significant amount of money,” says Mary Gorman-McAdams, master of wine and North America market adviser for Bordeaux wines. “The reality is you can buy futures at all levels, particularly with vintages after 2014.” Though the concept of “wine futures” (or en-primeurs) began in Bordeaux some 200 years ago, securing the best wines of the region for negotiants (middle-man merchants), the modern version only became available to private collectors in the 1980s as a means of securing up-front cash for the region’s growers and vintners. “It made economic sense,” says Gorman-McAdams, “before the top wines were priced like they are now. Today it’s kind of a speculation sport.” The reality is, just as with art, there are many reasons to buy into a barrel of wine. But it’s important to know what you’re doing and why. Here are a few hints and tips from the experts: FIND A REPUTABLE MERCHANT: “In the past,” says Hortense Bernard, general manager of Millesima, USA, a French-owned, NYC-based wine merchant and one of the five largest buyers of Bordeaux Futures, “disreputable companies would sell wine they didn’t actually have, then use that money to buy wines for other clients.” (Think Ponzi scheme.) She recommends seeking out a company that has been successfully working with futures for many years and can satisfactorily answer any questions. DO YOUR RESEARCH: “Regardless of what price point you’re dabbling in,” says Gorman-McAdams, “read about the wines, get a feel for the vintage, find what’s written about the previous vintage and the producers.” KNOW WHAT YOU WANT: Perhaps you seek a piece of the hard-to-get Château Margaux first growth at a bargain for investment (prices for futures are almost always less than once the wine is bottled), but perhaps you just really like French wine. “In Europe, especially, I see more and more everyday wine selling on the futures market,” says Bernard.
“I will have customers buy the same brand each year, just because they like it.” Gorman-McAdams agrees: “Looking back at inexpensive wines from 2010, I think, ‘Why didn’t I buy a case or two of that?’” Others buy into vintages that mark anniversaries or other celebrations. LEARN THE CALENDAR: Part of what makes the Bordeaux futures game both fun and challenging is the time-sensitive nature of each release. Excitement builds in the fall, when that year’s harvest enters the barrels, but it’s spring when the fun begins, with En-Primeurs Week bringing thousands of wine professionals and journalists to Bordeaux to try the latest vintage and report their impressions. By mid-July, the prices have been set. VINTAGE IS KEY: Each year’s sale reflects the previous year’s harvest, and Bordeaux is a region especially susceptible to weather extremes. But there’s another reason to know whether 2017 was a good year or bad: “I will tell some customers during a really good vintage to go with secondary labels, because the wines will be a really good investment,” says Bernard. “When it’s a smaller vintage, you’re better going with first growth wines.” IT’S OKAY TO NERD OUT: “When people come to us, one thing that’s very important to them is provenance, that the wines are in their original cases,” says Bernard. It’s akin to collectors of action figures wanting their possessions “mint-in-box.”
TOP AND CENTER IMAGES COURTESY OF MILLESIMA USA, BOTTOM IMAGE COURTESY OF BORDEAUX WINE COUNCIL
The reality is, just as with art, there are many reasons to buy into a barrel of wine. But it’s important to know what you’re doing and why.
TRAVEL One of many ocean vistas to take in along California’s Pacific Coast Highway.
Maui’s tropical rainforest.
Forget the “friendly” skies and feel the earth move under your tires.
BY S H I RA L E VI NE
here’s freedom in witnessing the world from behind the wheel. No security. No schedules. No shared seats. When you’re road tripping, the decisions are yours to make. Check out these jaunts near and far to discover hidden treasures that can only be found on land.
T H E ALL-AM E R IC AN D R I V E
The Journey: Mendocino to Orange County in California The Distance: Nearly 656 miles What You’ll See: Glittery coastline dotted with idyllic beaches, coves and tide pools, undulating cliffs flanking dramatic curves, vineyards, farmland and a storied castle. The winding stretch of US Highway 1 known as the Pacific Coast Highway is divided into three very different regions: Southern, Central and Northern California. Pit stop options abound, from Carmel, Morro Bay and Pismo Beach to Hearst Castle, San Luis Obispo and Big Sur. SoCal’s beaches aren’t to be missed either. There’s Malibu, Santa Monica and Venice—just to name a few. (visitcalifornia.com) Pro Tip: Book a retreat. Esalen, with its clothing-optional healing cliffside hot springs, has reopened. Other famed favorites include Shasta Abbey, Tassajara and San Ysidro Ranch. (esalen.org, shastaabbey.org, sfzc.org/tassajara, sanysidroranch.com)
Amazing Alternative: From Santa Barbara, island hop “the Galapagos Islands of the North,” aka the Channel Islands. Once inhabited by the Chumash people, visitors now populate Anacapa’s sea grottoes, bio-diverse Santa Rosa and campsite-heavy Santa Cruz Island. (sierraclub.org)
ROA D TO HA NA The Journey: Kahului to Kipahulu in Maui, Hawaii The Distance: 64.4 miles What You’ll See: Along Maui’s winding, narrow north shore highway are 59 bridges connecting the tropical rainforest. Cruise by taro patches, seascapes, waterfall pools, botanical gardens and some very huggable rainbow eucalyptus trees. Designated the Hana Millennium Legacy Trail, the route along highway 36 is best driven roof down, music up and accompanied by the Road to Hana GyPSy Guide app ($4.99). (roadtohana.com) Pro Tip: Careful! One part of the highway alone has 620 curves. Amazing Alternative: A less meandering route is the drive to the Mt. Haleakala crater. Guides suggest departing at an absurdly early hour to catch the sunrise, but even better is the sunset—just bring a jacket as it’s freezing up there. Adventure junkies: cycle down with Bike Maui from the 10,000-foot summit for a 26-mile descent to the ocean in Paia. (nps.gov/hale, bikemaui.com)
Castles and ruins abound in Wales
Natural stone arch in Los Cabos, Mexico.
SO UT H O F T HE BOR D ER The Journey: Tijuana to Los Cabos in Mexico The Distance: 1,100 miles What You’ll See: Within a single peninsula lies Mexico’s Highway 1, featuring a dramatic, transformative visual change from azure bays to a seemingly endless expanse of tumbleweeded desert. Witness the gray whale migration from December through April. Year-round check out the Cochimi Indian caves adorned with petroglyphs, fancy vineyards and gut-busting gastronomy ranging from two-taqueria towns to epicurean hotspots. There’s the real Hotel California, the kite-surfing mecca of La Ventana, 17th-century missions, and beaches with names like Lover’s and Divorce. The finale? The iconic natural stone arch that connects the Pacific Ocean with the Sea of Cortez. (bajainsider.com) Pro Tip: Avoid crossing one of the busiest borders in the world by car. Rent your vehicle in Tijuana to ensure Mexican insurance and other local paperwork. (cabaja.com) Amazing Alternative: Roll off the highway via motorcycle to take the interior dirt roads where mountains, waterfalls, pools and hot springs replace cactus and coastline. (bajaride.com)
AC ROSS T HE P ON D The Journey: Around the isle of Wales The Distance: Options vary What You’ll See: Literature and cinema have long depicted the romantic melancholy of the English countryside. But Wales is no longer a coal mining, industrial nucleus; rather it’s an awe-inspiring serrated coastline comprising lush greenery and shining sun. Pro Tip: Trade four wheels for two and saddle up with South
Wales’ Drover Cycles. Pedal through the homeland of the Joneses (Catherine Zeta and Tom), where royal real estate dominates given the area’s sheer volume of regal fortresses. There’s a lot of stone to cover, but fortunately there are 2,000 km of National Cycle Network paths. The 20.5-mile cycle from folksy-chic Abergavenny to the famed Hay-on-Wye will take you through the sheep-littered Black Mountains. Then climb to Gospel Pass: a fairytale-like spot 549 meters above sea level ending in a steep, speedy drop. Further southwest is Pembrokeshire, where a ride along the 186-mile coastal path offers harbour seal sightings. Amazing Alternative: In Pembrokeshire stay at Preseli Venture’s eco lodge to experience the Welsh sport of coasteering. Outfitted in freezing-water wetsuits, guided groups scramble in and out of the water, grabbing onto rock formations, swimming into caves and jumping off cliffs. (drover.cc, preseliventure.co.uk)
ROCKY MOUNTAIN, HO ! The Journey: Banff to Jasper in Alberta, Canada The Distance: 147 miles What You’ll See: Some seriously epic topography. Think jagged ranges with pristine mountain lakes (Peyto, Bow and Waterfowl are among the best). Waterfalls? There’s Panther, Tangle and Athabasca. To journey across the Icefields Parkway is to pass sweeping valleys and vast wooded wilderness, winding through the heart of the Rocky Mountains. Don’t miss the Canadian treasures that are Banff and Jasper National Parks. (icefieldsparkway.ca) Pro Tip: Take a hike! The Athabasca and Saskatchewan glaciers have guided alpine jaunts over moraines and up summit ridges. Star-seekers should note that Jasper is home to the impressive Dark Sky Preserve—just beware of grizzly and black bears! (jasperdarksky.travel) Amazing Alternative: Forgo the highway and travel by rail aboard the Rocky Mountaineer. The Vancouver to Banff sojourn chugs through the Continental Divide and more. (rockymountaineer.com)
WHEELS Moke America is the new fashion must-have! BY DAVI D A . ROSE
best part of this project is creating an American-built vehicle: we’re assembling in North Carolina and most of the parts are made in the USA.” Because the Moke is classified as an electric low-speed vehicle (LSV) with speeds up to 35 MPH, it’s not allowed on highways, but it’s perfect for driving around town or through the many gated communities popping up around the world. Says Rome, “For people who love these cool cars, it’s about the history, the memories of film and rock stars cruising the Riviera. Mini Mokes became famous as low-maintenance, fun cars to drive, especially in warm weather climates. And with the color schemes we now offer, the Moke is also a bit of a fashion statement.”
hat do Brigitte Bardot, Paul McCartney, The Beach Boys and Princess Margaret have in common? They all loved a small utility vehicle called the Mini Moke. In fact, in the ’60s and ’70s, numerous celebrities could be spotted driving these iconic cars around the French Riviera and other resort areas worldwide. James Bond even drove Mini Mokes in You Only Live Twice, Live and Let Die, The Spy Who Loved Me and Moonraker. (Of course, his other car was usually an Aston Martin, a Lotus or a Jaguar.) After a few decades out of production, the legendary Mokes are back, now offered with electric engines and power steering. The new Moke looks identical to the original, but with its modern updates, options and safety features, it’s the perfect modern-day beach buggy (available with automatic or manual transmission). Todd Rome, president and founder of private jet firm Blue Star Jets, has acquired the rights to produce Mokes for the USA and has already seen excellent sales. “As I travel abroad, I see the Moke in St. Tropez, St. Barth’s, Monte Carlo and throughout the Caribbean,” says Rome. “I’ve always loved these cars and rent them whenever I can. But for me, the
Above: Paul McCartney and Brigitte Bardot enjoy cruising in their Mokes. Insets: The newest iterations of the Moke look like the originals but use today’s tech.
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with great service is the only way to exceed clients' expectations.
For the ultimate clothing experience, indulge in made-to-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will truly be a fit like no other.
For that hard-to-buy-for kinda guy, give the gift of GARYS. Stop in or give us a call. We’ll take care of the rest.
ALTERATIONS With master tailors on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to the finished product. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new purchase.
SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange special appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call and we’ll make it happen.
CLOSET CONSULTATION Is the closet full, but you still can’t find anything to wear? Call in the style pros of GARYS for a personal closet consultation. You’ll get an objective view of your entire wardrobe and a friendly nudge to gently help you weed out the old, tired and worn to make room for the new. We’ll be happy to donate any unwanted items to our friends at Working Wardrobes.
PERSONAL DELIVERY If you’re in the area and need a purchase delivered, rest assured you’ll receive it when and where you need it… with a smile.
SHOP ONLINE No time to stop by the store? Visit us at garysonline.com and receive complimentary ground shipping on all your purchases.
BEER & WINE WHILE YOU SHOP Shopping can be stressful. Sit back and relax with your beverage of choice while one of our stylists takes care of your wardrobe needs.
COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP There’s gift-wrapping and then there’s GARYS gift-wrapping. It’s always complimentary and always with the utmost style and a dash of panache.
L K T B
E T S E E P H I S RIEF
With the revolutionary comfort of the BallPark Pouchâ„˘ everything else falls short.
Smart Casual is a notch above Business Casual: an uncontrived, pulled-together look for a day in the office or night on the town. A sales executive friend of mine confessed that he hasn’t worn a suit in years because he conducts most of his business over the phone or email. We can lament or rejoice over technology’s impact. But from a fashion perspective, an unintended casualty of its rapid rise is the demise of office attire. Clearly, many men have traded in suits and ties for the somewhat-too-casual, downgraded and downright sloppy look of jeans and T-shirts or khakis and polos. What’s next, Snuggies? Well, not quite. When confident self-styled men play it smart by dressing for work in Smart Casual, it pays off in spades. So, exactly what is the Smart Casual aesthetic? It’s looking neat, relaxed and pulled together without necessarily “matching.” It’s about investing in versatile sportswear pieces made from quality fabrics, and learning how to pair them. Actually, when you buy the right items in the right neutral shades, there’s not much to learn: you can create multiple looks by effortlessly layering shirts, sweaters, vests and outerwear with wool trousers, five-pocket pants or clean denim. Adding the right accessories (handsome cashmere scarf, patterned pocket square, distinctive watch, cool eyewear, burnished leather belt) will take it up a notch without looking contrived. Italians believe in la bella figura: putting careful thought into the image you present to the world, through one’s clothing, one’s attitude, one’s ability to make the ordinary extraordinary. With so many great options for Smart Casual this fall, attaining the extraordinary is easier than you think. — BY HANS GSCHLIESSER
SMART TIPS FOR SMART GUYS
jacket with khakis or jeans; slim suit trousers work with a knit cardigan or vest. Then, when you want to get down to brass tacks, wear the pieces together as a suit. (Advice: dry-clean both the jacket and pant at the same time, even if one doesn’t need it, so they age in unison.) T I E G A M E : Try a not-so-shiny knit, wool/silk or cashmere tie to make a casual-but-still “I mean business” impression. Pair a tie with a sport shirt rather than a dress shirt: a slightly lower knot is perfectly appropriate here and not stuffy. N E U T R A L T E R R I T O R Y: Fall’s neutral colors include gray, brown, black, navy and shades of olive and burgundy; stick to the neutrals in key pieces and add contrast with accessories. This way your tops (woven or knit) will always work with your bottoms. Winning combinations: navy and gray, navy and tan, or brown and gray. S O L E M A N : Get off on the right foot wearing this season’s updated cool sneakers, casual leathers and soft suedes . PAT T E R N R E C O G N I T I O N : Yes, solids are simpler to match, but sometimes it pays to stand out. (Advice: Consider a new soft plaid sport coat that plays well with dark-wash jeans.)
IMAGE COURTESY OF ELEVENTY
S U I T C A S E : Invest in suit separates and wear them in different ways. Pair that classic suit
GARYS FORUM FW 2017/18
Published on Aug 29, 2017