SPRING & SUMMER 2017
T HE N & N OW C R A I G & D AV E TA K E A L O O K B A C K
B IRDI E B A LL CAN A NAPKIN RING MAKE YO U A B E T T E R G O L F E R ?
S P R I N G L I NEU P
Andrisen Morton 270 St. Paul Street Denver, Colorado 80206 303-377-8488
26 On Location with Andrisen Morton
Stuart Nifoussi EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Menghi CONTRIBUTING WRITER
Bruce Abels DESIGNERS
Jean-Nicole Venditti Chad Morgan CONCEPT DIRECTOR
Andrew Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
64 Destinations: Milan Insider Picks
DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
FEATURES 4 8 10 20 22 24 60
Then & Now John Jaster’s View From the Floor The Fabric of Life at Andrisen Morton BirdieBall Colorado Getaways Cut From the Same Cloth A Conversation with Jon Arlotta
ON LOCATION FASHION STYLIST
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO
70 Getting Sneaky
FASHION 26 62 68 70 76 84
On Location With Andrisen Morton Profile: Canali’s Giorgio Canali Profile: Kiton’s Massimo Bizzochi Getting Sneaky Style of the Sun Gods First Person: Fashion Class
Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX
Marios PORTLAND, OR / SEATTLE, WA Mitchells WESTPORT, CT / HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN
DEPARTMENTS 6 56 64 66 86 90 92 94 96 98 100
Ask Craig & Lindsay Designers: Inspired Design Destinations: Milan Insider Picks Man of Style: Michael Armstrong Food: Over-the-Top Eats Wheels: Living the Fantasy Sports: Playing with Passion Art: Outdoor Renaissance Wine: So You Want to be a Sommelier? At Your Service End Page: Why Clothes Matter
Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA
FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER
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84 First Person: Fashion Class
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PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 20, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
THEN & NOW T H E M O R E T H I N G S C H A N G E T H E M O R E T H E Y S TAY T H E S A M E ? O N LY I F YO U ’ R E TA L K I N G A B O U T A N D R I S E N M O R T O N ’ S D E D I C AT I O N T O O F F E R I N G T H E W O R L D ’ S F I N E S T M E N ’ S C L O T H I N G A N D T H E U LT I M AT E I N P E R S O N A L S E R V I C E .
Drove: VW Super Beetle
Drives: Classic Mercedes
Sport Coat: $195
Sport Coat: $1,995
PRICE OF A DENVER HOME
F I R S T- C L A S S S TA M P
W O R L D P O P U L AT I O N
CO LO R A D O G OV E R N O R
D E N V E R B R O N CO S Q UA R T E R B AC K
Saturday Night Fever
Close Encounters of the Third Kind
National Lampoon’s Animal
La La Land
D AV E M O R T O N
C LOT H I N G CO S T S
M OV I E S
ASK CRAIG & LINDSAY I ’ D L I K E A N E W S P O R T C O AT T H AT ’ S N O T A B A S I C B L A Z E R . W H AT D O YO U S U G G E S T ?
Patterns, be they subtle or loud, are definitely happening in spring sport coats. We love the more muted plaids in shades of blue, berry or soft gray, but feel free to make a bolder statement if you dare, especially since these fashion-forward sport coats work as well with jeans and fivepocket pants as they do with dress trousers.
flat-front or pleated) should feel comfortable, without ripples but without excess fabric. Trouser length should skim the top of your shoe, but a slight break is also acceptable. Fortunately, today’s suits in new performance fabrics enhance both fit and comfort. Let us show you a few exciting options. W H AT K I N D O F S H I R T W O U L D L O O K G R E AT WO R N B OT H W I T H A N D W I T H O U T A T I E ?
I S E E A LOT O F G U YS W E A R I N G S H O R T E R , T I G H T E R S U I T S T H E S E D AY S ; I S T H AT S T I L L T H E LO O K FO R 2 0 1 7 ?
Only if you’re comfortable in it. The more important factor is that the suit should fit: anything too baggy or long is definitely out of style. Some general rules: shoulders should reflect your natural shoulder stance, sleeves should allow a quarter to a half-inch of shirt cuff showing, buttons on the coat shouldn’t pull, pants (whether
There’s a new kind of shirt referred to as a hybrid: somewhere between dress shirt and sport shirt. Often, there’s a button between the traditional first and second button positions, so that even if you’re not wearing a tie, the impression is neater. Look also for sporty details like contrast fabric in the collar and/or sleeve cuff, contrast buttons, or brightly stitched buttonholes that won’t show if you’re wearing a tie. Speaking of new spring ties, why not try a more casual knit, or a seasonal blend with cotton, silk or linen?
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MANAGING DIRECTOR JOHN JASTER’S VIEW FROM THE FLOOR T H E SA L E S F LO O R I S W H E R E I T A L L H A P P E N S . W H E R E T H E AC T I O N I S . A N D W H E R E E V E R Y S I N G L E D AY, O U R B U S I N E S S S TA R T S AT Z E R O . I T ’ S R AT H E R H U M B L I N G , S O M E W H AT F R I G H T E N I N G A N D AT T H E S A M E T I M E E N E R G I Z I N G .
On the floor, all of our activity is focused on the outcome, the tale of the tape, so to speak. To get there, we need great product—something that touches the emotional center of the customer. Over the years, Andrisen Morton has established itself as the must-visit store for the style-savvy man, and we’ve become known for our top-notch, on-trend product offerings. In a way, one could say our collection of menswear sells itself. So what’s left for those of us on the floor to actually do? SELL THE EXPERIENCE
In truth, our goal is not simply to sell clothing. Our goal is to enable— even empower—our client family. It’s not about our phenomenal collection of the world’s finest menswear. Nor is it about incredible tailoring, timely delivery, or a host of special services that are increasingly rare today. The Andrisen Morton brand is about relationships. And those relationships begin on the floor. Assisting you in choosing your wardrobe is more about emotion— how something looks in the mirror and feels against the skin—than rationality. We help you cultivate a sense of self vis-à-vis your personal style. To do this we must first discover who you are by understanding your likes and dislikes. We need to know where the lines of your comfort zone are drawn, and what you believe you look your best wearing. This can only be accomplished through building a relationship based
on trust, honesty, personal service beyond your highest expectations and ultimately, if we’re lucky, friendship. From the top down, we want our sales associates to interact with customers in a certain way, to sell in a certain way—and for the most part they do. But each of us on the floor is an individual with unique ways to accomplish the same goal. By recognizing and nurturing this individuality just as we do with our customers, we empower our sales staff to perform at the highest levels using whatever methods work best for them. We set the bar incredibly high for the staff, not in terms of numbers, but in expectation that they will provide you with unparalleled knowledge and insight. To achieve this, we must overachieve every single day, while remaining humble in serving you. For example, if you’re looking for an item of clothing from a brand we don't happen to carry, we get it for you, even if that means we must acquire it at retail. Men are impatient shoppers. You want to get in and get out. You want instant gratification. Whether you come in for a new suit, a whole new wardrobe or maybe just a new pair of shoes, you want it now. It’s not selfish, but simply part of our nature. So you’ll come to the place that knows that, caters to that attitude and makes it not only painless, but fun. This is how we succeed as sales people. And why we have been blessed with such great success as a store.
THE FABRIC OF LIFE AT ANDRISEN MORTON H O M E TO T H E R E G I O N ’ S B E S T CO L L E C T I O N O F TO P - Q UA L I T Y M E N SW E A R , A N D R I S E N M O R T O N I S A L S O H O M E T O A C O L L E C T I O N O F T R U LY T O P - Q U A L I T Y P E O P L E , E A C H B R I N G I N G PA S S I O N A N D P E R S O N A L I T Y T O S E R V I N G O U R C U S T O M E R S . H E R E ’ S A G L I M P S E O F W H AT M A K E S S O M E O F T H E M T I C K .
M A N A R H A FA A R
Manar was born in Damascus, Syria into a family of textile manufacturers that paid great attention to clothing and attire. After all, it was their business. He came to Denver in 1994 to pursue a graduate degree in international trade and took a sales position at the old Foley’s department store to support himself. He soon discovered that the sense of style cultivated long ago by his family would serve him very well in the clothing business here in America. Manar’s charm, unique perspective and style led to 18 successful years at Nordstrom, which is where he met his wife. He joined us in 2014, and feels Andrisen Morton’s highly personal approach to customers has empowered him to become even better at what he does. He serves his customers not just by selling clothes, but by building meaningful relationships that last. Hobbies: Working out, travel and options trading. Favorite vacation spot: Although he’s traveled extensively in the Middle East, Europe and Scandinavia, for real relaxation Manar heads to the beaches of Mexico’s Mayan Riviera. Known for making: Reservations. His wife is the cook in the family. What he’d wear every day if he could: Nice jeans, open-collar shirt and a blazer. On style: “Style is part science, part art. The science can be taught. The art has to come from the inside. We help teach the style ‘rules,’ then encourage customers to break them with their own.”
B O B S C H U LT Z
Mark hails from New Iberia, Louisiana, the heart of Cajun country. He grew up in a Cajun-speaking home: his father farmed sugarcane and his mother worked in retail. In between hunting crawfish and playing baseball, Mark dreamed of being anything from a rock star— he played drums—to a schoolteacher. Mark’s 41-year-long career in apparel retail began by accident. After finishing college in D.C. with a degree in social studies education, he took a job at Woodward & Lothrop and loved it. Mark also spent three years at Raleigh’s, the area’s notable high-end men’s and women’s furnishings store. He joined the AM family in 2002. And since then, his other family has grown. He now has seven grandchildren, with one on the way.
Raised in the rough, tough Goodfellas-type Bensonhurst neighborhood of Brooklyn, New York, Bob’s childhood was spent hanging out on street corners and in the local luncheonette. He was born into a family of clothiers—his grandfather had a gown business in Manhattan, and his father owned a retail clothing business—so apparel and style is in his blood. Prior to joining the Andrisen Morton family in 1996, Bob made freewheeling Boulder his home for 28 years. For 15 of those years, he honed his craft at the Boulder Fashion Bar store. Altogether, Bob’s career in men’s retail has spanned nearly 35 years. Grandpa Schultz would be very proud, indeed.
Celebrity look-alike: Dennis Miller.
Celebrity look-alike: Robert De Niro. Favorite vacation spot: Italy, specifically the Tuscan countryside and the major men’s fashion houses in Milan and Naples. Mexico is another
Hobbies: Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park, cooking.
Favorite vacation spot: Colorado —it’s why he moved here.
Known for making: Great Italian sauces and pastas.
Known for making: His mother’s Sauce Picant, a medium-hot Cajun dish.
What he would wear every day if he could: Jeans, cowboy boots, a cool
Why AM is special: “We have the freedom to give our clients the ultimate
shirt and sport coat.
in personal service however we see fit.”
Why AM is special: “Beyond great merchandise and being so very service
On style: “Everyone has a personal style, but many don’t know what it is
become great friends.”
exactly. That’s where we come in.”
oriented, the ability to build real relationships with clients who ultimately
On style: “Style is an art form. Some have it, some don’t. I help my customers discover theirs by being very honest.”
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John was born and raised in Denver and in fact, still lives in the same neighborhood where he grew up. And what a childhood! With eight brothers to emulate and certainly contend with on a daily basis, he learned at a very early age you had to work hard to be successful in life. Later becoming the father of six, it’s a lesson that has served him well. John was a cook at Mercy Hospital and a DU student when he interviewed with Dave Morton over 35 years ago. He arrived wearing what he thought was sharp black and white houndstooth suit. Despite his obvious lack of style, Dave and Craig saw something special in John that day and hired him on one condition: that he immediately discard that garish suit!
Mike is a true son of the Midwest, growing up in the small city of Delaware, Ohio, which is in the exact geographic center of the state. He aspired to be a master carpenter just like his father, but his dad knew better. So in 1968, Mike went off to college in Southern California, first at Glendale College, then Cal State-Northridge majoring in art/art history. As a student, he began working part-time at an upscale men’s store in Burbank, loved interacting with customers and was hooked. Then in 1972, Mike became the manager of Bentley’s LTD—a shop very much like AM—managing men’s locations in Palos Verdes and Manhattan Beach. Mike came to AM about 15 years ago after working at Saks Fifth Avenue for many years.
Celebrity sound-alike: Ask him to do his impression of Clint Eastwood. Hobbies: Painting, fly-fishing, camping and enjoying his first grandchild. Favorite vacation spot: Any beach with his family. Known for making: Green chili, from an old railroad cook’s recipe. Why AM is special: “The latitude we have to take such good care of our clients is empowering. It’s not found in other stores.” On style: “Style is very subjective and totally relative. But one can learn to have good taste.”
Hobbies: Spending time with his wife, kids and grandkids. Also fishing. Favorite vacation spot: Honolulu. Known for making: Nothing! His wife Rosie laughs if he even tries to cook! Why AM is special: “Management gives us the flexibility to order anything a client wants—even if we don’t carry the line.” On style: “Every guy has clothing they’re most comfortable wearing because they think they look good wearing it. As we help them try new things, they get more compliments, and begin to discover their true style.”
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As an Army brat, Chris grew up in California, Germany, Panama, Wisconsin and Kansas. Following that military tradition, he joined the Navy after high school. Later Chris earned a business degree from Pittsburgh State University. He relocated to Denver to work in the oil business in 1996, and while working also earned his MBA. Somehow, Chris discovered his true calling was the men’s apparel business. With no previous experience, he became Rookie of the Year at Neiman Marcus in 2007. Not surprising, as he is very easygoing and quite knowledgeable. He joined the Andrisen Morton family in August 2013 and we’re glad he did. Our customers agree!
Our six full-time master tailors and seamstresses are a vital part of the store’s success, because without an absolute perfect fit, even the finest clothing in the world won’t look good—and neither will you. Our new head tailor, Truc Tran, comes to us from right here in Cherry Creek North, but his journey began on the other side of the world. Born in Saigon, Vietnam (officially known as Ho Chi Minh City), Truc started his tailoring career there, training for a year under the watchful eye of a renowned master tailor. After his apprenticeship, Truc opened his own shop with a dream of reuniting with his family in Colorado, where two older brothers had already immigrated. He achieved this goal in 1992. Truc first worked in Denver for Jos. A. Bank, then at the Squire Shop and Neiman Marcus. About 10 years ago, he again started his own business, which happened to be in the building right next door! His precise machine and handwork, eye for detail and organizational skills are Truc trademarks, as is his very sunny disposition. We are thrilled Truc is now part of the Andrisen Morton family!
Hobbies: Sports, especially baseball and the Rockies. Also attending concerts and traveling. Favorite vacation spot: Panama—he lived there for seven years as a child and finally returned in May. He recently fulfilled another dream to visit Iceland. What he’d wear every day if he could: Blue jeans and T-shirts. Why AM is special: “We are like a family here. The work environment is almost as good as one could ever hope to find.” On style: “Style can definitely be learned, because when I got into the apparel business 10 years ago, I had absolutely none.”
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BIRDIEBALL C A N A N A P K I N R I N G M A K E YO U A B E T T E R G O L F E R ?
Success (or at least proficiency) in golf, like most sports, requires practice, practice and practice. Hours and hours of it. But few golfers have the time to go to the driving range day in and day out to work on their game. Yet the desire to improve is constant, whether you play to a 22-handicap or a two. Perhaps more than any other sport, golf offers a plethora of home training aids to make it easier to get in all that practice. It’s estimated to be a $60 to $80 million a year industry. Some work, some don’t, and others are the craziest things you’ve ever seen. THEN THERE’S THE NAPKIN RING… A L S O K N OW N AS T H E B I R D I E B A L L !
Developed here in Denver by John Breaker—a longtime family friend of an Andrisen Morton staffer—BirdieBall was a PGA Merchandise Show “Best New Product” award winner in 2005. It has been featured in hundreds of publications, including The
Wall Street Journal and Golf Magazine, as well as featured on Good Morning America, ESPN, The Golf Channel, Fox Sports and other programs. BirdieBall is endorsed by many of the country’s Top 100 Golf Instructors and received a 92% approval rating from the PGA Partners Club Testing Center. A restricted-flight practice golf ball, BirdieBall may look like a napkin ring, but it feels like a real golf ball coming off the clubface and reacts like a real ball in flight. It draws, fades, hooks and slices, but flies no more than 40 yards with a full swing, Because BirdieBall can turn any backyard into a private practice range, golfers can practice more. And the more practice, the better your game can become. BirdieBall has also expanded into offering indoor putting greens created for the discerning golfer who understands the importance of an authentic roll, grain and speed. As a fellow family business, Andrisen Morton salutes the Breaker family and wishes them continued success on and off the course!
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O V E R 3 0 Y E A R S O F B U S I N E S S AV I AT I O N E X P E R I E N C E
YOU HANDLE THE GETAWAY. WE’LL HANDLE THE STYLE. We all know Colorado has much to offer in terms of breathtaking landscapes and rugged wilderness. Here, a weekend getaway could include a hike among 14,000-foot peaks, a paddle down a river, or a leisurely exploration of our mountainous majesty from behind the wheel, where the next turn could reveal yet another “wow” discovery of an off-the-beaten-path gem. There’s no shortage of whatever it is you fancy, from wine tasting to art touring, hot springing to hot air ballooning: you name it. If you want it in a getaway, it can likely be found right here in that 100,000-plus square-mile backyard called the Centennial State. Here are a few thoughts to get you started. G O I N G YO U R WAY PA L I S A D E F R U I T & W I N E B Y WAY
Colorado’s Western Slope has a thriving wine country, and it’s centered in Palisade. The Palisade Fruit & Wine Byway, divided into three routes, is a great way to experience the beautiful orchards, lavender gardens, world-class vineyards, premium wineries and fresh fruit stands either by bike or car. You’ll also find small-batch spirits and craft beer too. Enjoy riding along the scenic Colorado River and do some shopping in quaint downtown Palisade. Take in the breathtaking scenery and stay at a cute hotel or plush bed-and-breakfast. With all that fine wine, it’s the smart way to go. S O M E L I K E I T H OT — H I S TO R I C H OT S P R I N G S LO O P
Soaking in natural mineral hot springs is a time-honored tradition around the world. And few places in the world are as geothermally gifted as Colorado! Five of our state’s finest hot springs destinations— Glenwood Springs, Pagosa Springs, Chaffee County, Ouray and Steamboat Springs—have joined forces to create the unique Historic Hot Springs Loop. Along this 720-mile route, you’ll find 19 amazing venues in which to take a soak, from the world’s largest mineral hot
springs pool in Glenwood Springs to the odor-free springs at Ouray, plus unusual vapor caves, hot pots and remote terraced pools hidden along a stretch of river. Best of all, many of these are close to upscale outposts like Aspen and Crested Butte. SOME LIKE IT HAUTE-R — D U N TO N H OT S P R I N G S
Just across the mountain from Telluride, deep in the San Juan Mountains, Dunton Hot Springs is a 19th-century mining town transformed into a luxe Relais & Chateaux resort. This perfectly restored ghost town thrives on contradictions: hand-hewn log cabins exquisitely furnished, an old saloon serving food of surprising quality, hiking and biking trails followed by pampering massages and soaks. Down by the river you’ll find the Dunton River Camp, a luxe tented camp for fly-fishing. And this fall, the proprietors will debut the five-bedroom Dunton Town House in a converted historic inn in downtown Telluride. S A L I D A I S A L L R I G H TA !
A gorgeous drive 2.5 hours from Denver will take you to little Salida, a true hidden gem of a town literally in the heart of the Rockies. Despite being surrounded by three mountain ranges studded with 14’ers, the climate is relatively moderate compared to most mountain towns. Included in the guidebook America’s 100 Best Small Art Towns, Salida is home to an art scene to be reckoned with, as well as charming cafés, startlingly good big-city cuisine, great bars with live music and professional outfitters for every imaginable outdoor activity like Gold Medal fly-fishing, river rafting and horse camping. You’ll even find Colorado’s only aerial adventure park including an amazing zip-line tour. We could go on and on about the wonders of our state. Our hope is that this brief look at some of the possibilities will inspire you to go on and on as well. Happy discovery!
CUT FROM THE SAME CLOTH In 1996, two years shy of our 20th anniversary, Andrisen Morton joined a menswear industry association called the Apparel Forum. Formed in the 1930s by Hubert White—founder of the fine Minneapolis men’s store that still bears his name—today Forum (as its members call it) is comprised of the top independent upscale men’s stores in the country. Forum members meet twice a year, and Bob White, grandson of Hubert, is a key member of the group. Membership is by invitation only. Our incomparable Craig Andrisen first met Bob at the men’s clothing market in New York City, where menswear retailers from across the country gather to select next season’s merchandise, build relationships—and maybe have a little fun, too. Craig and Bob became friends and in time, Bob realized Andrisen Morton would be a perfect addition to the exclusive group. Like Andrisen Morton, each member store from across the nation is the cream of the crop, representing the best in selection, service and quality. Each also has a reputation for superior customer satisfaction. The invitation to join Forum comes with one caveat: the new member must make a presentation about their business. And make no mistake: Forum is serious about business. “First meeting we went to, we were completely blown away by the sharing,” says Dave Morton. “Everyone was sharing best practices on
merchandising, their financials, learning from each other, advising each other. Membership has absolutely changed our business and our lives.” Equally as important as sharing virtually every aspect of our businesses are the friendships that have developed. Members assist and advise each other not only on business, but also personal issues. “I remember during that first meeting, Dave and Craig went to a quiet table to talk,” says Bob White, “and you could almost see the lightbulb appear over their heads as they realized what being a Forum member could open up to them: the expertise, experience, business counsel, friendship, support. It was their ‘Wow’ moment.” "We were honored to host one of Forum’s semi-annual meetings a few years ago and had a lot to live up to,” says Craig. “These gatherings are always quite informative and involve lots of discussion and hard work. We also understand it shouldn’t be all work and no play, so after an opening day in Denver, the meeting continued for two days at The Broadmoor. It was a huge hit!” The current members of the Apparel Forum represent the absolute best upscale men’s stores in the country. If you happen to be away from Denver and a sartorial need or emergency arises, give us a call and we’ll put you in touch with a nearby Forum-affiliated store to handle it. We guarantee you won’t be disappointed.
ON LOCATION WITH ANDRISEN MORTON H A L C YO N , A H O T E L I N C H E R R Y C R E E K
Our friend Walter Isenberg’s/Sage Hospitality’s newest hotel property, Halcyon, is luxury on the unassuming side. That made it the perfect setting in which to debut our equally luxurious and understated spring/summer 2017 collection. This season’s merchandise felt like it belonged, no matter where we pointed the camera: the sophisticated Presidential Suite, the casually elegant Departure Restaurant, the unique Gear Garage or the serenely cool Departure Elevated rooftop pool and lounge. Take flight and arrive in style.
PHOTOGRAPHY © STUDIO JK PHOTOGRAPHY, DENVER.
Suit: Canali Dress Shirt: Eton Tie: Dolcepunta Pocket Square: Brunello Cucinelli Watch: Shinola Shoes: Magnanni
Kiton Belt: W. Kleinberg Watch: Shinola Pocket Square: Simonnot-Godard Shoes: Tod's
Outerwear: Moorer Sweater: Brunello Cucinelli Sport Shirt: Emanuel Berg 5 Pocket: PT05 Belt: W. Kleinberg Bracelets: Spivey Sunglasses: Ermenegildo Zegna
Vest: Peter Millar Collection Sport Shirt: Culturata Watch: Shinola
Sport Coat: Boglioli Sport Shirt: Culturata 5 Pocket: AG Belt: W. Kleinberg Pocket Square: Brunello Cucinelli
Tuxedo: Canali Tuxedo Shirt: Eton Bowtie: Robert Talbott
Sport Coat: Boglioli Sport Shirt: Eton Tie: Dolcepunta Jeans: PT05 Shoes: Gravati Pocket Square: Eton Sunglasses: Tom Ford
Canali Bracelets: Spivey Sunglasses: Tom Ford Jeans: J Brand Shoes: Magnanni
Sport Coat: Boglioli Sport Shirt: Culturata Belt: W. Kleinberg Pant: PT01
Isaia Shoes: Santoni
Isaia Shoes: Di Bianco
STANDING Sport Shirt: Culturata Belt: Anderson's Pant: Hiltl Watch: Shinola SITTING Vest: Herno Sport Shirt: Culturata Shorts: Mason's Bracelets: Spivey
Blazer: Samuelsohn Dress Shirt: Eton Tie: Eton 5 Pocket: Gardeur Pocket Square: Brunello Cucinelli Lapel Flower: Edward Armah
Good Man Brand Belt: W. Kleinberg
Sport Shirt: Paul & Shark Pant: PT01 Belt: W. Kleinberg Shoes: Tod's Sunglasses: Tom Ford
Sport Coat: Canali Sport Shirt: Eton Jeans: AG Shoes: Santoni
Faherty Watch: Shinola Bracelets: Spivey Sunglasses: Tom Ford Shoes: Tod's
Patrick Assaraf Vilebrequin Tom Ford Sunglasses
Faherty Watch: Shinola Sunglasses: Tom Ford Shoes: Tod's
Good Man Brand Shoes: Tod's
INSPIRED DESIGN WE ASKED OUR MOST FASHIONABLE FRIENDS ABOUT THE IMPACT OF ART ON THEIR CREATIVE PROCESSES.
BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
ARNOLD BRANT SILVERSTONE, HICKEY FREEMAN & SAMUELSOHN I came across this photograph of rock formation called The Painted Desert, a visually wondrous place in the Badlands of Arizona. The band of colors struck me as ethereal. It stayed with me for days and I ultimately designed a whole collection for Hickey Freeman spring/summer 2017 inspired by it with layers of dusty rose, tan and putty. The arid essence of the desert image naturally led to crafting a looser silhouette, which is a pendulum swing from the previous season. We cut the interior canvas of our jackets on the bias for a fashionable drape. We hand-tailored incredibly light canvases and interlinings for feather-light construction combined with summerâ€™s most
MIKE FAHERTY, FAHERTY
exotic fabrications. Silk runs throughout the collection to add quiet
From an early age I was interested in art and found myself practicing it
strength to tissue fine fabric and to add a whisper of luminosity.
frequently. I was lucky enough to grow up near New York City, so I had access to some of the world's greatest museums. Early on I was drawn to more classical art styles like Impressionism, but through my education I was exposed to more eras of art and I found myself most excited about the Abstract Expressionistic works of Gerhard Richter. His beautiful use of
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
color inspires me to this day. When I started following Richter's artworks, it became clear to me that I
I have a passion for literature as an art form and really value reading. My favorite and most read book is Mediations by Marcus Aurelius. I have drawn many life lessons from his words and messages from the stories he writes. I discovered the book early on in my career and it has guided me in my life since. I instantly connected with its messages and the writings have become a close treasures. I have read this book numerous times and continually take away something new each time I read its passages. The foundation of the brand and the collection begins with the philosophies and ideologies that I believe in, many of which I discovered through the teachings of Marcus Aurelius. Just as these great philosophers value legacy, humanity and living a full life, these principles are carried with us as we design the collection each season.
was mostly drawn to his use of color combinations. As I made my way into the fashion world, I fell in love with designing textiles and creating my own color combinations in prints and plaids, which are found throughout my collections at Faherty. You have to walk a fine line when creating textiles and prints that stand out so that they are still easy to wear with the rest of your wardrobe. When you walk into a museum or gallery and Richter is on the wall, you are immediately drawn to his use of color. But as you get closer, there is an easiness to the color combinations that makes them seem less daunting. That's always my intention when designing our textiles: at first you're drawn to them from across the store, but as you approach them, they become more inviting to wear.
BOB CORLISS, ROBERT TALBOTT In my mind the most thoughtful and inspirational painting is Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, part of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. The two hands coming together is such a powerful image and it talks about anything being possible. It’s motivational as well as beautiful. But to tell you the truth, our surroundings are our biggest inspiration. We live in a really special location—The Monterey Peninsula— and Carmel in particular is one of the most spectacular places on the planet. Mountains, valleys, oceans in beautiful colors; we call it God’s canvas. The weather patterns are very dynamic, but it never gets extremely hot or cold. We have different people from all over the world visiting at all times. Those factors all influence the colors and styles that make up our collections. The design process is a collaborative journey between our creative director Mark Calder and his very talented team. We started as a neckwear company and have an archive that houses every design dating back to 1950, also a source of endless inspiration for us.
GIANLUCA ISAIA, ISAIA My favorite works are the Napoli landscapes of Giacinto Gigante. Napoli is at the heart of everything we do at Isaia. These references are seen in the way we create each piece of clothing: Neapolitan tradition mixed with a contemporary point of view. What I also like about this painter is that he was introduced to his craft by his father, just like I was introduced to sartorial tailoring by my father, Enrico Sr.
SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON If I had to choose one work of art that really blew my mind I would have to say La Divina Commedia by Dante, and Botticelli's depiction of it in La Carte de l'Enfer. I really didn't know who Dante was or what La Divina Commedia was when I picked it up at 18 years old. It was an Italian version that I bought in London and I could hardly understand anything, but I tried my best. Then I read it through in English online and it was more an experience than just a book. Hard to put words on it. I would not say that a specific piece of art has inspired me or my work though. I always walk around with my eyes open. Having to constantly The colors in his pieces struck me first. They have a very dreamlike effect, but com-
come up with new ideas and concepts to develop into mood boards for our brands means that I can’t get stuck too long in one idea. I wish I could say that Botticelli shines through my collections, but I can't (LOL). However, I always do my best and push myself so that what-
bine different styles and techniques. I also like that he was a little bit of a rebel amongst the Fine Art Institute in Napoli. This makes him very interesting as he did not try to conform his style too much.
ever we set our minds on doing, we do it properly and put our hearts into
Just like Gigante we don't try to conform to trends. We like to create new ideas. We
it. In an ideal world I could spend one year on every collection. The hard-
stay true to our DNA and don't change everything based on what the industry tells us.
est thing working in fashion is that it is so cyclic and with this constant
We observe what is happening around us, but remain true to who we are. Also, the depic-
need of news, you always feel that there is never enough time. But that's
tions of Napoli that Gigante created are seen in each of our inspirations for the season.
just how it is. Perhaps one day consumption will have to slow down and
Napoli is always at the heart. We play with color the way a painter does. It’s just a differ-
the world will only focus on producing really well made stuff that's built
ent art medium.
to last for a decade. I'm proud that at Eton our goods last for a very long time.
A CONVERSATION WITH JON ARLOTTA
Jon Arlotta is a man with his feet firmly planted on the ground. He’s worked for CVS Caremark since graduating college in 2002, first as an account manager, and has risen through the corporate ranks to become vice president of employer sales. He married in 2014 and recently became a first-time father with twins. Arlotta is one of many second-generation clients that we’re so humbled and honored to serve. We appreciate his father recommending that he check us out. We must be doing something right! We spoke with Arlotta in Denver, in between one of his many business trips.
their way to tell me what a great leader he was and how wonderful he was to work for. He’s taught me a lot of life lessons that I appreciate more and more as I get older.
W H AT I S YO U R E A R L I E S T M E M O R Y ?
W H AT WA S YO U R F I R S T PAY I N G J O B ?
I grew up in suburban Chicago, so I have great memories going to Cubs games with my family. I’m a huge Cubs fan. I was fortunate to see the Cubs in the World Series this year at Wrigley Field, which brought back wonderful memories from my childhood.
I worked in a local sporting goods store as a kid, probably at 12 or 13. I’d ride my bike to and from the store where I stocked shelves and organized the back of the store. I loved it. It taught me a lot about responsibility, which has stuck with me.
W H O W E R E YO U R C H I L D H O O D H E R O E S ?
YO U P L AY E D R U N N I N G B A C K F O R T H E
W H O A R E YO U R H E R O E S N O W ?
NORTHERN ILLINOIS UNIVERSITY HUSKIES.
I was really into sports as a kid, and at that time in Chicago, the Bulls and Michael Jordon were so successful. Michael Jordan was an idol of mine. I certainly looked up to my parents, too. I’ve always tried to emulate my father. We have a great relationship and my respect for him grows every day. I am fortunate to work for the same company he worked for in the past, and have met people who have gone out of
W H AT WA S T H AT L I K E A N D W H AT D I D
W H AT I S T H E O N E Q U A L I T Y YO U T H I N K B E S T D E S C R I B E S YO U ?
Loyalty. To family, friends and co-workers. Along those lines, I follow through on commitments. My family and friends can count on me to do what I say, and always honor any commitment I make.
F O OT B A L L T E AC H A B O U T L I F E ?
It was a great experience. I played in high school and was fortunate to get the opportunity to play there. But I only competed two seasons, as injuries forced me to hang it up. Football taught me the value of teamwork and leadership, which carries into my job today.
“ BE PATIENT, WORK HARD AND GOOD THINGS WILL HAPPEN. MY DAD REINFORCED AND INSTILLED THIS IN ME SINCE I WAS A KID.”
W H AT WO U L D W E F I N D O N YO U R N I G H T S TA N D?
I’m a very organized person so not a whole lot. A lamp and an alarm clock is all. My wife’s nightstand, on the other hand, is covered with books, magazines and water bottles. W H AT W O U L D YO U R AT H E R L O S E , YO U R L A P T O P O R C E L L P H O N E ?
Probably my cell phone. I have everything backed up on my laptop, so if I lost my cell phone, I think I’d be ok. YO U ’ V E V E R Y R E C E N T LY B E C O M E A F I R S T-T I M E FAT H E R W I T H A T W I N B OY A N D G I R L . H A S T H AT A L R E A DY C H A N G E D YO U R P E R S P E C T I V E O N L I F E ?
Oh yes, absolutely! It’s not about me anymore, but my kids and wife and family. I am now driven to succeed for them. W H AT K E E P S YO U AWA K E AT N I G H T ( B E S I D E S T H E T W I N S ) ?
Mostly work and how we can achieve some lofty sales targets. Also thinking about what can I do differently or better as a leader to motivate, grow and develop my team. W H AT D O YO U D O W H E N YO U ’ R E N O T W O R K I N G ?
My wife and I love the mountains, particularly Vail. In fact, we got married on top of Vail Mountain. We really enjoy skiing and I’m already looking forward to getting my kids on skis in a couple of years. I’m also an avid golfer—not a very good one, but I’m working on that skill set. I love the game! W H AT I S YO U R A L L -T I M E FAV O R I T E T V S H O W, FILM AND BOOK?
I’m a huge Seinfeld fan. Love that type of comedy. Shawshank Redemption is my favorite movie—Morgan Freeman is a truly great actor. I really enjoy his work. My favorite book is Decision Points, written by George W. Bush right after leaving office. It’s a good read, very interesting and insightful. W H AT ’ S T H E B E S T A D V I C E YO U ’ V E E V E R R E C E I V E D ?
To be patient, work hard and good things will happen. My dad instilled and reinforced this in me since I was a kid. W H AT T H I N G ( S ) W O U L D P E O P L E B E S U R P R I S E D T O K N O W A B O U T YO U ?
My grandma lived in South Bend, Indiana, and for years I spent every summer there with her. I’d run all over the Notre Dame campus and around town to the point that my family started calling me “the mayor of South Bend.” Most people know I’m a big Norte Dame fan, but not that I’m a former mayor!
A R E YO U I N V O LV E D I N A N Y C H A R I TA B L E O R C O M M U N I T Y E F F O R T S ?
CVS Caremark is very involved with Stand Up For Cancer. In fact, two years ago we stopped selling any tobacco products in our stores. It’s something near and dear to me because my mom was a smoker and passed away about six years ago from cancer. It makes me feel good to give back through that and remember her. W E U N D E R S TA N D YO U W E A R S U I T S A N D T I E S F O R B U S I N E S S . W H AT D O YO U W E A R T H E REST OF THE TIME?
I love sport coats and I have a number of them. On weekends, you’ll typically find me in a sport coat, a tucked-in button-down shirt and jeans. I’ve also gotten into pocket squares over the last couple years. It’s been fun picking out different pocket squares to go with different outfits. D O YO U H AV E YO U R O W N PERSONAL SENSE OF STYLE?
Yes, absolutely. It’s one of the great things about working with Mike Thompson at Andrisen Morton. They recognize I have my own style and know what I like to wear. So when I go in, merchandise is already picked out for me, and 90 percent of the time Mike’s right on. The other 10 percent is his attempt to broaden my horizons a little. W H AT A N D R I S E N M O R T O N I T E M S I N YO U R C L O S E T D O YO U W E A R T H E M O S T ?
My blue Brunello Cucinelli sport coat, for sure. Plus, Mike convinced me to get a gray Cucinelli vest to go with it. It’s become my favorite outfit. I love wearing it. W H AT M A K E S A N D R I S E N M O R T O N S P E C I A L T O YO U ?
The service is fantastic, obviously. But the thing I like the most is when I walk into the store, it’s not just Mike but it’s the whole team. Everyone treats me like their client too! That’s a great feeling. We look forward to working with Jon Arlotta for many years, and hope that one day, he’ll bring his son in to become a third-generation Andrisen Morton shopper!
Master of Giorgio Canali
On what it takes to be the best. Would you share a brief background of the company? Canali was founded near Milan in 1934 by two brothers, Giovanni and Giacomo Canali. The decades that have passed have seen the arrival of new generations, new energy and new vision for the company, but through all this, we’ve maintained our dedication and passion for our work. Today Canali is an undisputed international leader in tailor-made luxury with our own centers of production (all in Italy), more than 1,800 employees, 250 boutiques, and over 1,000 retail stores in more than 100 countries.
BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
local Italian mills; we work closely with them to design patterns and colors and blends so that the majority of our fabrics are exclusive.
There has been much talk about fit in recent seasons: can suits get any slimmer? It’s not a question of slim or not, it’s more about a focus on freedom and spontaneity. Men expect their clothing to be elegant, comfortable and in synch with today’s lifestyle. A slimmer silhouette often gives a guy a more youthful, tailored look. Elegance lies in the right balance of numerous components, not on any extreme.
Did you always know you’d work in the family business?
How do we get American men to dress more Italian?
Not exactly, but it became sort of natural. Growing up in the company and being constantly exposed to various aspects of the business, I developed a growing interest.
If a man isn’t comfortable in what he’s wearing, he can never be elegant. That said, the secret to an ‘Italian look’ is sprezzatura—a term first made popular by Baldassare Castiglione in his 16th-century handbook The Book of the Courtier. He used it to express the uniquely Italian art of making things look effortless. A key element in Italian style is that an outfit never look forced, uncomfortable or unnatural. Anyone can achieve this by wearing garments that combine fine fabrics, expert cutting and beautiful design, all intrinsic to a Canali suit.
What are the joys and headaches? The joys and headaches reflect the pride and, at the same time, the responsibility of working in a company that bears your name. A business that your own family created and built gives you much motivation, but also a fair amount of pressure.
Who has been your mentor or role model?
Can you talk about Su Misura?
Definitely my father: he has transferred to me his passion and dedication. What’s more, he taught me respect for other people’s work and their efforts, and to always remember our responsibility towards the talented artisans who work here.
Canali’s Su Misura is the highest expression of the Canali experience, elevating the excellence of Canali craftsmanship to a new level. Our customers love the personalized and unique experience, where our experts analyze the specifications of your physique and then translate this information into a perfect suit incorporating the characteristics of comfort and elegance that are the hallmarks of our tailoring.
What differentiates a Canali suit from the competition? The secret to a Canali suit lies in its construction. We are proud to craft our garments according to time-honored sartorial tradition. Our suits are built by expert tailors on an internal canvas structure, guaranteeing a more comfortable, durable and elegant garment. We take pride in using fabrics that represent the very best of
How would you describe your personal style? I would define it as discrete elegance, updated but with a nod to classic. On weekends, I enjoy wearing sophisticated sportswear, but I often add a sport coat and dressy shoes.
THE FINEST CLOTHES DEMAND THE FINEST CLEANERS. Andrisen Morton sells only the finest men’s clothing from the world’s best designers. La Nouvelle knows how to clean those world-class garments properly. Trust your wardrobe to La Nouvelle, the only dry cleaner and launderer recommended by Andrisen Morton.
4 02 5 E D I C K EN S O N P L AC E , D EN V ER CO 8 02 2 2 • 3 03 . 6 9 1 . 01 2 3 • L A N O U V EL L EC L E A N ER S .CO M
The best places to eat, drink, party (and recover) in this world fashion capital. BY MARIO BISIO When I’m in Milan twice a year on buying trips, I have a few favorite restaurants. For lunch, I love Bagutta. Known as “the trattoria of trattorias,” it’s a fun place with colorful art and wonderful food. I usually order a salad and a pasta. My favorite is the simplest: pasta pomodoro that’s out of this world. Another good lunch option: the cantina in the Kiton Palazzo, the Milan headquarters for this esteemed clothing company. Their mozzarella arrives fresh every day by train from Naples. You cannot find anything more delicious than caprese salad with the best mozzarella, the freshest tomatoes, the purest olive oil… While it’s open only to industry insiders, I invite our customers to join us anytime! For dinner, I love Da Ilia. I go for their incredible risotto, their perfect veal Milanese, their special ensalata tropical and any of their homemade pastas. For fish, I choose La Risacca 6. Both the raw fish and the cooked dishes are simply prepared from the freshest seafood in Milan! I also can’t resist their spaghetti vongole—molto buono! Of course, one must make time for cocktails. Be sure to check out the bar at the Diana Majestic Hotel. It’s behind the curtains,
and super cool. For amazing views to go with your cocktails and tapas, try the Radio Rooftop: it’s the best place to contemplate Milan’s skyline and take in the energy of the city. My favorite hotel is the Principe di Savoia: it’s an old hotel with an amazing history that’s been the place to stay for cosmopolitan society since the 1920s. There’s also a fabulous workout facility on the rooftop level. It’s not inexpensive, but I’ve been going there for so long that it feels like home. Of course the main activity in Milan is fashion, and the best way to absorb it is over a cappuccino or an aperitivo. Just sit, sip and stare as the best-dressed people in the world pass by. As for shopping, you can find fabulous inspiration in the Corso Como neighborhood. I suggest you take notes in Milan but save the actual purchasing for when you get back home, just in case you need to make a return! Finally, to lift your spirits, be sure to visit the Duomo. Go in the daytime when there’s sunlight and absorb the immense power of this magnificent structure. Its majesty and spirituality are truly lifeaffirming.
FROM TOP: SHUTTERSTOCK/ALEXANDRE ROTENBERG, LA RICASSA 6, LA RICASSA 6, SHERATON DIANA MAJESTIC, RISTORANTE DA ILIA, SHUTTERSTOCK/MURATART
man of style
MICHAEL ARMSTRONG, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT NYC’S DREAM DOWNTOWN BODEGA NEGRA RESTAURANT AND SELFPROCLAIMED SNEAKERHEAD, ON FOOD, FASHION AND FEET. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
How did you first become interested in food?
I always cooked for my family in Seattle starting at age 12 or 13. It just came naturally to me so I ended up in culinary school in Portland, where I then worked for a year or two. I moved to NYC on a whim; when the exec chef I was working with moved to Tao in Vegas, he called me to be his sous-chef. Bodega Negra is owned by Tao. The original is in London and we’ve recreated several of their signature dishes: quesadilla rustica, tuna ceviche, softshell crab tacos… Could you articulate the food/fashion connection?
It’s a symbiotic relationship. Dining out is more than just good food: it’s dressing up, it’s see and be seen, it’s a mood and an energy. These days, the trend is away from fine dining toward a more fun casual experience—in both food and fashion. A suit and tie is great, but not mandatory. It’s often about cool streetwear and the right sneakers. It’s about handcrafted food and artisan cocktails in a fun, relaxed, comfortable setting. From where comes your passion for sneakers?
Like much of my generation, I’ve always loved street style, rap music, the hip-hop lifestyle. (And New York City embodies it all!) Growing up in the Michael Jordan era, I ran track and cross country so I had lots of Air Jordans. When I moved to NYC, I started collecting sneakers, especially retro-inspired styles. I have about 200 pairs now—Nike, Adidas, Reebok, Asics, New Balance and many others… My favorites: black/royal Air Jordans from 2001 that I bought a few years ago for $500 and blue Air Jordan 2s that I just donated to a gallery in Chicago. They sold at $1,500. What other shoes do you wear?
Most chefs wear clogs, but I wear only sneakers. I don’t even own dress shoes (but I do own one pair of cowboy boots). I work on my feet 70 hours a week so I need comfort, support and slip-resistance. I wore Air Force Ones to my wedding (after tailoring the suit to showcase the sneakers). I gave custom Nike 10s as gifts to my groomsmen. Any advice to a guy looking to buy sneakers?
Buy what you love, don’t worry about trends. It’s about how you rock it. It’s about confidence. A lot of designer companies are now creating high-end dressier sneakers that don’t look like basketball shoes. I really like them but I don’t own them. It’s not my personal style. (Although I wouldn’t mind trying some Saint Laurent high-tops…) Could you tell us about a recent recipe you’ve created?
We partnered with The Foundation and Under Armour to launch Steph Curry’s new sneaker. The featured dish: red curry chicken…
GOOD. BETTER. PERFETTO. A DEMANDING SCHEDULE REQUIRES TROUSERS THAT PERFORM PERFETTO FROM HILTL MEANS ALL DAY COMFORT AND ALL DAY PERFECT SHAPE. AVAILABLE IN COTTON, WOOL & DENIM
MEET OUR DEAR, ONE-OF-A-KIND FRIEND, MASSIMO BIZZOCCHI. From the moment menswear icon Massimo Bizzocchi answered our call from his New York City Kiton showroom, it was clear his reputation for tremendous charm, lively conversation and industry knowledge is richly deserved. His warm, engaging personality flowed through the phone and seemed to fill the room. Bizzocchi was born in 1952 in the northern Italian town of Biella, home of Italy’s finest textile mills. Passion for fine fabric is in his DNA. He jokes that as a baby, his mother didn’t feed him milk, but cashmere! He is chairman of Kiton Corporation USA, yet another peak in an already illustrious 43-year career. He introduced Americans not only to Kiton, but to many of Italy’s most prestigious fashion brands, including Isaia, Lorenzini, Gallotti, Cruciani, Valentini, Druhmor, Cantarelli, Herno and many others. Bizzocchi also has a signature line of handmade tailored clothing, neckwear and shirts, available at fine retailers nationwide. You’ll find his wonderful ties in our neckwear collection. Despite the fact Signore Bizzocchi doesn’t do many interviews and it was the middle of menswear market week, he graciously took time to speak with us because of his special relationship with the store. The friendship began at market in the mid-’80s, when Kiton’s USA showroom was first established, and it has flourished ever since. Bizzocchi even made a special trip from Italy to join us for the 1999 grandopening celebration of our landmark Cherry Creek North store. He recalls, “It was important that I came to honor [Dave and Craig]. And I gave them a gift with special meaning to me: an old horseshoe. It had brought me good luck over the years at market and I wanted to pass my good luck on to them. It was very nicely received and I appreciate that they understood how and why I gave it to them.” It still hangs in the store today, 18 years later. Considering the very high cost of Kiton clothing ($10,000 to $70,000 for a suit), we asked Bizzocchi whether an older Kiton suit should be retired because it is out of style. He responded with such
exuberance, one could almost see his eyes gleaming. “When you have top-quality Kiton clothing, and you are confident, depending on your mood, depending on the people you are going to meet, depending on the memories that garment may hold for you… you don’t care if the lapels are wider than what is shown in GQ, or if the jacket is a little longer than what is being worn today. You don’t see it as old. For you, it is your style of the day, to express who you are… your feelings. It is what makes you smile and brings you joy. So to answer your question, you don’t have to buy Kiton every season to be current. Not to say we don't want customers to buy something each season to move their wardrobe forward!” He spoke of the cashmere Kiton uses like connoisseurs of fine wine or whiskey might speak about their passions. “When Kiton shows a jacket, there are only 24 jackets in the world of that pattern and color. For suits, there are only 17 of a specific pattern and color.” This season Kiton takes it to the ultimate with a suit woven entirely from the wool of a single cashmere goat! Kiton now has its own mill, which allows it to spin its own yarns. The company employs 350 master tailors and 600 stitchers, all working by hand to assure each detail—for instance, 160 stitches on each buttonhole using pure silk thread made specifically for buttonholes—is worthy of the “best of the best plus one” philosophy of Kiton founder Ciro Paone. This dedication to quality extends even to the 1 p.m. lunch Kiton serves its factory employees every day. The pasta is brought from the nearby Neapolitan village of Gragnano, where the pasta is still made in “the old way.” The mozzarella is purchased every morning at 10 a.m. “because it must be fresh. The respect we have for the people who work here is the respect reflected in every Kiton product,” explains Bizzocchi. Our respect for Massimo Bizzocchi is as deep as his boundless energy. We are honored by his friendship and privileged to have Kiton in the store for you.
SLEEK LEATHER TRAINERS ARE A GREAT COMPLEMENT TO FIVE-POCKET PANTS. With a lightweight jacket and cool cotton shirt, this will become your go-to spring look. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANE LAVANCHER. FASHION DIRECTION BY MICHAEL FUSCO. STYLING ASSISTANCE BY LEAH SNOW.
PETER MILLAR OUTERWEAR, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SHIRT, PETER MILLAR PANT, W. KLEINBERG BELT, SHINOLA WATCH, MAGNANNI SNEAKER
SN GettingE A KY
Kick your career into high gear with a fresh take on business casual. CRISP WHITE SNEAKERS AND A FITTED KNIT
BOGLIOLI SUIT, ZEGNA SHIRT, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SNEAKER
SHIRT KEEP YOUR SUMMER SUIT SPORTY AND CHIC.
Top with a perfect polo and structured sport coat for a look that can take you from work to weekend.
ROBERT TALBOTT SPORT COAT, FAHERTY POLO, W. KLEINBERG BELT, KENTON MICHAEL BRACELET, JOES JEANS DENIM, LANVIN SNEAKER
THE CLASSIC JEANS AND SNEAKERS COMBO GETS A STYLISH UPGRADE WITH SUEDE.
STEP OUT OF THE GYM AND INTO THE PAGES OF GQ WITH SOFT, SLIM JOGGERS AND STYLISH SLIP-ONS. A half-tucked tee and performance
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA OUTERWEAR, FAHERTY POLO, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI JOGGER, SHINOLA WATCH, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SNEAKER
outerwear keep things from getting sloppy.
KEEP IT COOL, COMFORTABLE AND CLASSY.
ISAIA SPORT COAT AND POCKET SQUARE, ETON SHIRT, FAHERTY SHORT, TRASK SNEAKER
When dressing up your shorts, trade the tired loafer look for burnished leather sneakers. THEREâ€™S NO BETTER WAY TO
CLOCKWISE FROM T O P LEFT: FERRAGAMO Navy Leather High-Top MAGNANNI Cristian Gray Leather Low-Top TODâ€™S Gray Suede Trainer ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Dark Blue Suede and Leather Slip-On
STYLE OF THE SUN GODS PHO T OGR APHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR: MARCELINO MAKEUP: CL AIRE BAYLEY WARDROBE: WENDY MCNETT S T I L L- L I F E P H O T O G R A P H Y : B R I A N K L U T C H S T I L L- L I F E S T Y L I N G : A L E J A N D R A S A R M I E N T O F O R H A L L E Y R E S O U R C E S
THIS SEASON, DISCOVER AN ARRAY OF FRESH, POWERFUL LOOKS THAT SHINE AS BRIGHTLY AS THE SUN.
EXPLORE CONTRAST AT THE INTERSECTION OF LIGHT & DARK.
STYLES THAT STAND UP TO THE SUNâ€™S RADIANT INTENSITY.
ROLEX/ TOM Oâ€™NEAL
Learn to ignore changing fads and ace your look with updated classics. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER
Iconic style transcends time: Pierce Brosnan (1995) and Cary Grant (1959) look great in any era.
zine my wife thrust in front of me. It was filled with images of spring men’s fashion, and breezy as it might be, it’s hard to visualize myself swooshing around in a Yohji Yamamoto men’s pleated skirt, or a tailored suit with shorts, or any of the attentiongetting androgynous looks parading down today’s runways. We men like to believe that our minds are occupied with loftier thoughts than deciphering fashion trends. Yet as much as we insist we don’t care about clothes, on some primal level we do. Our end game is to stay relevant and not look like lost transports from forgotten decades. We’re living in the 21st century, and you’ve probably noticed menswear trending trimmer, evolving with the times without pushing the envelope. It manages to be modern by incorporating innovative fabrics and tailoring techniques, so the new looks are now as comfortable and easy-care as they are fashionable. In other words, today’s clothing will give you an enviable nonchalant style without drawing unwanted attention. For while I don’t mind engaging in an occasional fashion conversation, I’m certainly not interested in being the conversation. As Yves Saint Laurent noted, “Fashion fades, style is eternal.” With that in mind, here are a few tips to achieve a winning look and up your style game. • Buy investment pieces from timeless designers like Canali, Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli. They’re on top for a reason: you can’t go wrong with quality tailoring and enduring style. • Owning a versatile sport coat is mandatory. Think of it as the Swiss Army knife of your wardrobe. Comfortable, well tailored, lightweight and easy to dress up or down for any occasion. Let it become your go-to piece for spring 2017. Try Canali’s Kei jacket or a soft coat from Zegna or Samuelsohn. You’ll see the light. Throw it on over anything and immediately feel confident. • Fitted shirts will make you look 10 years younger. If you’re hard to fit, custom is a great option (and it won’t break the bank). • Never undervalue the importance of accessories. Without throwing your world off its axis, you can upgrade any look with something as simple as a printed pocket square, a great belt, fun socks or standout shoes. • Give your wardrobe a fresh look by mixing it up. Pair your dress shoes with jeans and try leather or suede sneakers with your suit. Wear your go-to sport coat with either jeans or dress pants. As Luciano Barbera explains it, “Dress up your sportswear and dress down your formalwear.” • Explore spring’s many alternatives to denim: five-pocket pants in lightweight stretch fabrics that fit and feel terrific. Yes, blues and tans are forever, but why not consider a pair in a more interesting shade (or pattern)? • Take advantage of our well-curated assortments and knowledgeable sellers. Their suggestions will open your eyes to new clothes that might just get you excited about menswear again.
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“YOU CAN’T BE SERIOUS,” responded my inner Little Lord Fauntleroy to the maga-
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In the name of total satiation, we traveled the world to dine under spectacular circumstances. BY SHIRA LEVINE
HOTEL DE GLACE IMAGE © DANY VACHON
There’s roughly a three-month window in which to experience Quebec’s Hôtel de Glace (right), where you’ll quickly learn how chill feasting within an ice castle can be. Critical resources: hearty grub, puffy coats and a hard-working generator. Pop-up icy dining with an Arctic atmosphere is certainly a northern thing. Kemi, Finland’s Snow Castle, maintains a temp of -5 Celsius while serving local salmon, perch and lamb. Austria’s Kitzbühel Alps is home to Alpeniglu Dorf, an igloo restaurant serving fondues and boasting an open-air snow bar, as well as an ice church.
Epic food is subjective. Sometimes, a culinary adventure awaits domestically, in one’s very own hometown. But sometimes the most tantalizing feasts are those over-the-top experiential ones in far-flung locations. We compiled a list of global dining and imbibing spots that left tasty impressions on the mind—and better still, the palate.
Luxe Local Feasting
utside of California, there’s an “Alice Waters of” in a few special places. Indeed there’s but one Chez Panisse, but the finest and freshest seasonal ingredients culled by successors are a gourmet challenge worth traveling for. In southeast Wales, she’s Pauline Griffiths, owner of the unsuspecting Art Shop &
Chapel. Located in Abergavenny, the café with courtyard garden is tucked below an old chapel and behind a market hall. What makes Griffiths like Waters are the ingredients: beetroot, leeks, curly kale and pheasant. Favorites? Grilled cheese with hawthorn berry ketchup, turmeric golden mylk and oat milk lattes. Back across the pond,
Sea(in)side Fare Who doesn’t love a swim-up bar? The Lagoon Bar at Iceland’s Blue Lagoon (previous page) is restorative twice over courtesy of healing waters and a signature cocktail for a full detox/retox encounter. In Costa Rica, at Tabacón’s Arenal Pool Bar, a ceviche dish served in waist-deep thermal waters doesn't cramp those seeking splashy crater views. The waters are rich in calcium, lithium and silica, and are naturally heated by the Arenal volcano’s magma. Barbados' Crystal Cove had us (rum) punch drunk in love with the waterfall entry to a cave bar where fish from the very waters guests wade in is prepared to order. And Las Vegas' Tropicana Hotel offers noshes to those who swim up to the waterproof blackjack table. But next level al fresco comes in acqua. In Bora Bora’s otherworldly lagoons, Tahitian tour operators curate motu picnics, Polynesian suckling pig feasts set in shallow sandbar’d waters.
Woodberry Kitchen (above left) tantalizes in Baltimore. Chef Spike Gjerde is Charm City’s mid-Atlantic sourcing Alice Waters. The slowcooked turkey potpie with rutabaga cream and kohlrabi, rabbit dirty rice with buttermilk fried saddle, and koshihikari rice and snake oil are swoon-worthy. Foodies at Anguilla’s CuisinArt Resort should expect
nothing less than a hydroponic farm-totable experience given, well, the gigantic on-site hydroponic garden (above right). Chef Jasper Schneider’s veggies nourish the menus of five foodspots at the resort, and the Caribbean Sea’s bounty of finned foods round out the fresh and local dishes: lionfish, snapper and lobster, oh my!
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LIVING THE FANTASY Many a young boy’s fantasy is to someday drive an exotic sports car to its limit, and the supercar star of these dreams is often a Lamborghini. I’m not a young boy, but I finally had the opportunity to make this goal a reality when I spent an incredible morning at Dream Racing, the five-star driving experience at Las Vegas Motor Speedway: the only track where you can get behind the wheel of a real racing Lamborghini, Ferrari or Porsche. I was picked up by the Dream Racing van and taken to their facility at Las Vegas Motor Speedway, known as “The Diamond of the Desert.” After a brief tour I was escorted to a room where a series of simulators give participants an enhanced 3D view of the track. The realism was remarkable and the virtual drive around the track was valuable preparation for getting behind the wheel. I met my personal instructor and he guided me through the twists and turns of the simulator exactly as he would soon do from the literal passenger seat. The next step was to be fitted for a very impressive driving suit and pro-level helmet. As my instructor and I approached the Lamborghini Huracán, I was full of anticipation, wondering what the V10 engine with 610 horsepower would feel like at full revs. The car is equipped with carbon ceramic brakes, so there was no doubt I would be able to slow down should I find myself in trouble. As I got strapped in and observed my surroundings, I felt as if I was entering the cockpit of a jet fighter. Upon firing up the engine, I began to sense the potential of 600-plus horsepower. I exited the pits, got on the throttle and felt the surge of
power. As a 4x4, the Huracán took the corners with ease, encouraging me to increase my speed with each lap. My instructor and I were able to communicate clearly through the microphones in our helmets; he pointed out the fastest line through the corners and made other brilliant suggestions as we lapped the course. As we pulled into the pits, I thought it couldn’t get any better. But I didn’t yet know what Dream Racing had in mind for me to drive next. We were then met by Dream Racing president Adriano de Micheli and marketing director Steve Jones. They asked me about my prior racing experiences and apparently felt satisfied I would be able to handle the Huracán Super Trofeo Racing Car. (I was scheduled to drive a Ferrari 458, which I was rather looking forward to, but de Micheli was prepared to offer me the ultimate.) As they rolled it in I was astounded and eager to get behind the wheel. I was not disappointed. This is a machine with astonishing power and technology whose sole purpose is to dominate every race car in its class. The vehicle’s 5.2-liter V10 engine produces 612 horsepower at 8,250 RPM. With its 6-speed, 3-disc racing clutch and F1 paddle shift, the car catapults from 0 to 60 in 3 seconds. Its top speed is 205 MPH, but with traction control, ABS and 18” Pirelli P Zero racing slicks, the car still sticks through corners as if it were on rails. For all you boys and girls who dream of supercars, the fantasy can be realized at Dream Racing in Las Vegas. (So keep feeding that piggy bank.)
IMAGES COURTESY OF DREAM RACING
A racing experience straight out of your wildest dreams. BY DAVID A. ROSE
E LWAYS .CO M C H E R RY C R E E K • D OW N TOW N • VA I L • D I A
ALAN ARLT WANTS TO BRING OUT THE CARMELO ANTHONY IN ALL OF US. BY DANIEL A. GROSSMAN
PLAYING WITH PASSION and Maya Moore (WNBA). All have core values similar to those at Ultimate Hoops.
he idea for Ultimate Hoops, a recreational basketball league where each player is treated like a professional, came from Alan Arlt’s personal passion for the sport. He founded the league in 2006; in 2008 he sold it to Lifetime Fitness and in 2014 introduced training products. It is currently in 24 markets, making it the largest recreational b-ball league in the country. Here, we speak to Arlt about his dream.
What life lessons can young people learn from basketball? I think two key values are determination and commitment. Our goal at Ultimate Hoops is to reinforce a “never retire” attitude and state of mind. It’s unfortunate that 70 percent of basketball players quit by age 13 and never play again. We believe it’s critical to keep players playing in order to maintain their lifelong passion for the game. A passion for basketball often leads to a passion for other positive pursuits in life.
What is your mission for Ultimate Hoops? To instill passion and values, and improve basketball culture for the average fan. This includes creating stats and power rankings for each player.
What are the most exciting things going on at Ultimate Hoops?
What in your personal background inspired this dream? I was born and raised in Minnesota, then moved to NY in my 20s. I grew up a Knicks fan, but the players who most influenced me include Larry Bird, Magic Johnson and Dennis Rodman (on the Pistons). I’m a big fan of Rodman for his heart and passion for the game. (I was never a Michael Jordan fan as he was the bitter archrival to my beloved Knicks.)
Who are the best NBA players today? The best role models? In my opinion, the best players are LeBron James, Steph Curry, Klay Thompson and Carmelo Anthony. I’d have to say Anthony is also among the best role models for his vocal stance on social issues. Also in the role model category: Curry, Durant, Westbrook
In January 2016, we signed a partnership with NBRPA (National Basketball Retired Players Association). Our goal is to keep retired players involved in the game through speaking, training and other appearances. This past fall, we organized a media game at Sky Club in NYC featuring Carmelo Anthony and other retired NBA players. In 2017 we’re sponsoring an Ultimate Tour featuring athletes with core values that reflect ours. We continue to be involved in numerous national corporate and red carpet events with models wearing basketball gear. We’re also involved with the Maya Moore/Ricky Rubio Academy. Moore has sponsored this all-day academy for three years and is actively involved with the campers there.
FOR ONE OF THE BEST FREE ART SHOWS IN THE WORLD, ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS LOOK UP. BY SHIRA LEVINE
While strolling the industrial-hip streets of Oahu’s Kaka’ako District in search of a cup of coffee, I come upon a familiar face and stop in my tracks. Before me is a portrait of a man, classic but for the fact that the magnificent painting stretches across the entire facade of a building on the unassuming corner of Ward Avenue and Kapiolani. I learn later that it’s titled Hapa, which in Hawaiian means “part” and refers to anyone with a mixed ethnic background. The artist, Kamea Hadar, is an Israeli/Japanese painter raised in Hawaii and schooled in Paris at the Sorbonne. The hapa man is President Barack Obama (who went to high school just three miles from this very location). “President Obama is a symbol of someone who is hapa; he represents the philosophy and the beauty of not only being mixed race, but promoting racial equality,” says Hadar, also a co-creator of the annual international public art event Pow!Wow! “Public art is as important as a project that hangs in a museum for hundreds of years. Art can be impermanent and still important. We don’t need to hold on to it forever. The sun damages public art; it fades. When people realize that they start to pay attention.” Corporate, government and nonprofit-sponsored urban frescoes are frequently commissioned to fine artists. Post-industrial cities like Detroit, Baltimore and Pittsburgh are home to murals spon-
From top: Mural by Os Gemeos on the Bowery in NYC. LA street scene. Artwork in Valparaíso, Chile.
IMAGES BY SHIRA LEVINE
sored by banks and retail chains aiming to brighten neighborhood blight through local art and culture. Not that the clandestine installation of self-expression has ceased. The work of Shepard Fairey and Brazilian twins Os Gemeos couldn’t be so commonly appreciated without the (in their time) renegade installations by Keith Haring, Kobra and JR, who then paved the way for Swoon and Banksy. Commissioned or not, art in public spaces often challenges, enlightens and reflects counterculture ideas and emotions, giving voice to the ignored, illustrating history and tradition, and inspiring conversation among community members and tourists alike. “Works that exist outside the traditional museum context are no longer precious, contained, bound by the space of the museum or the physicality of the frame,” says Lizy Dastin of the Mural Conservancy of Los Angeles. “They become a natural extension of everyday life, rather than a cultural break from it. This physical accessibility regarding space is attractive. Street art is becoming more participatory. The artists themselves are accessible on social media, giving viewers the opportunity to engage with them directly.” Our favorite destinations for haute graffiti? New York City never disappoints. Urban art aficionados also treasure Philadelphia, the birthplace of outdoor expression. San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, New Orleans, Seattle, DC and Austin are also home to some spectacular curbside fine art—worthy of attention beyond an Instagram selfie, and free to discover solo, with the help of an app, or, in some communities, on guided walking and biking tours.
SO YOU WANT TO BE A
There’s more to it than drinking great wines… BY LESLEY RUBENSTEIN
t starts with a passion for wine, a love of learning and an ability to retain lots of details about grapes, geography, terroir, etc. It ultimately becomes a journey of research, deductive tastings, pairings, pourings and intense exams to finally become certified. Master Sommelier Dan Davis took his first sip of alcohol in college and tried his first taste of wine at the encouragement of a friend at a local tavern. Today, he serves as the director of wine
and spirits at New Orleans’ iconic Commander’s Palace, owned by the Brennan family. “We have an extensive wine program,” Davis says. “Everyone can find something familiar here, but the real joy is to take guests on a journey that’s a little outside their comfort zone.” The wine cellar complements the restaurant’s “haute Creole” cuisine and reflects Davis’ passion for rare and underrepresented wine, history and food. Wine enthusiasts have taken notice: for the last five years, Commander’s has been a recipient of The Wine Spectator Grand Award, widely perceived as the most prestigious recognition in the world of wine. In 2016, Commander’s was nominated by the James Beard Foundation for the best wine program in America; The Daily Meal named its wine list the best in the U.S. “Wine and food go hand in hand,” is Davis’ mantra. “Wine is very much part of the meal in flavor and texture.” Commander’s has raised the staff’s level of wine knowledge by making the Court of Master Sommeliers Program mandatory for employees. Under Davis’ direction, 40 servers, plus managers, bartenders, kitchen staff, chefs and owners, passed the Introductory Course and Examination, the first level of the program.
Above, the wine room at Commander’s Palace. Below left, Master Sommelier Dan Davis.
Twelve Certified Sommeliers, having attained the second level, walk the restaurant’s floors. Says Davis, “Education is the key to everything: it fosters a passion that the sommeliers bring to the customers. We’ve created a genuine wine culture.” Davis says the training is critical to a restaurant’s success. “Servers need to know the quality of the wine, and why it works in a specific context. They need to be able to pronounce vocabulary and feel comfortable talking about wine in a professional—but approachable and friendly—manner.” The Introductory Class is a two-day course led by Master Sommeliers that culminates in an extensive exam. It’s all-encompassing, covering everything important to know about wine. Students also practice blind tastings and serving, although these skills are not tested at this level. “When I see my staff move from ‘Oh, I get to drink wine’ to ‘Oh, I get to sell this wine and provide an experience for the customer,’ I know the program has worked.” The Certified Examination, the second level, requires students to engage in self-directed studies followed by a three-part exam that tests theory, tasting and service. “You walk into the room to find two glasses of wine: one red and one white. You have 25 minutes to taste the wines and tell the Master Sommelier what they are. Then you take an exam that is fairly grueling, much harder than level one.” During the service portion of the exam, each candidate waits on a
Master Sommelier as a guest in an imaginary restaurant with an imaginary wine list. He or she can order any type of wine, and the candidate must know all about it. Candidates must also suggest wines for the guest’s hypothetical food order, conduct a mock service of a bottle of wine or Champagne, and serve an after-dinner drink. “Being certified is a very real credential with value. Basically, the Court of Master Sommeliers is saying that if they were running a restaurant, they’d hire you as a sommelier.” To take the Advanced Course and Examination, candidates must apply. They need a minimum of five years in the industry and must be accepted into the program, which provides a glimpse of what to expect from the third exam and, if invited, the fourth level: The Master Sommelier Diploma Exam. The process is difficult, and candidates spend years of long grueling hours in preparation; only a small percentage eventually pass. Currently, there are only 125 men and 24 women in the U.S. who can call themselves Master Sommeliers. The unique opportunities, however, make all the hard work worthwhile. “A highlight for me was being with seventh- or eighth-generation winemakers in Burgundy and having them pull a 1917 bottle out of a cave, where their great-grandfather had hidden it from the Nazis. They popped it open, and we drank it, with much joy. It doesn’t get better than that.”
CURRENTLY, THERE ARE ONLY 125 MEN AND 24 WOMEN IN THE U.S. WHO CAN CALL THEMSELVES MASTER SOMMELIERS.
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end page n my life, clothing has always been a family affair. My earliest memories of fashion date back to my mom encouraging me to select my own outfits when I was six years old. I didn’t realize it then, but this was the beginning of my addiction to clothWeber, right, with his dad, a fashion ing. Or more accurately, to the executive. importance of wearing the right clothes. Even at that young age, matching items in my limited wardrobe felt like a huge responsibility. Although I tried to get my mom to help— “Mommy, which sneakers go with this sweatsuit?”—her response was always, “Which do you like?” Years later, when I was in law school, a female friend was praising my fashion sensibility to a group of students. One of the students remembered me from high school as “the guy who would tuck his flannel shirts into his sweatpants!” My father is a successful fashion industry exec who has headed big companies like PVH and LVMH. One of his maxims is that how you package yourself is as important as how you package your products. How you dress is one component of this; how you speak, how you treat people and how you think are other factors relevant to success, in business and in life. But clearly, your style says a lot about who you are. Your ability to put yourself together tells a story. Are you neat or sloppy? Modern or traditional? Creative or conformist? All these cues send a signal. Clothes tell your story before you even open your mouth. Is this fair? Nope, but it’s reality. Or as my father would say, “Fair is for kids.” I, for one, believe in suits. I believe in dressing up, in looking the part. I practiced law for almost nine years at a firm whose dress code was “business casual unless seeing clients.” Unfortunately, few
guys have a real handle on business casual, and it was embarrassing how some of these educated lawyers would come to work. My father always taught me that there’s no substitute for good taste. I have learned that in a business environment, it pays to always look your best. These are not your friends, they are associates and, like it or not, you’re competing. The senior-most people at the firm set the example, and they always looked professional, even on days with no client contact. Bottom line, it never hurts to look your best at all times. And I believe that most men look their best—most professional, most in control—when wearing a suit. Think of a general in the military, or a pilot: the uniform paints a picture of competence and strength. In the military there are precise rules for how to dress: not a single button can be out of place or a lapel creased. These rules are there for a reason: to create an image of order and respect. I’ve recently given up law for a career in fashion, where my style consciousness serves me well. Although creative casual is acceptable, you’ll always find me wearing a suit, and almost always with a tie. Ties are no longer mandatory these days, even in fine restaurants, but they’re a great way to complete an outfit and add a note of distinction and personality. I sometimes wonder whether, in my designer suits and ties, some people might consider my style a bit too perfect, too contrived, too planned out when in fact, I’m just a guy who appreciates nice clothes. Be that as it may, let’s all take the time to appreciate the person inside the clothing: the substance behind the style. For that, I have learned, is what truly matters.
WHY CLOTHES MATTER
Musings on the art of dressing. BY JARROD WEBER
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