Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2015
AT EASE ESSENTIAL SPRING STYLE SNEAKERS STEP OUT DESIGNERS HIT THE ROAD
CONTENTS Andrisen Morton 270 St. Paul Street Denver, Colorado 80206 303-377-8488 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA
FEATURES 10 New Faces 38 Shopping: How to Get the Relationship You Want 42 Designers: On the Road 64 Book Review: Hug Your Customer, Again! 70 Wellbeing: Finding Clarity 72 Culture: Through the Met’s Looking Glass
FASHION 14 Spring is Here! 36 As I See It 40 Would You Pass the Modern Fit Test?
46 Noteworthy: Jacob Cohen, Faherty, Canali, Ermenegildo Zegna, Samuelsohn 50 Stranded in Style 58 Spring Essentials
DEPARTMENTS 4 8 32 66 68 74 76
Welcome Letter Ask Craig & Lindsay The Fashion Forum World Scene Spirits: Bottle Art At Your Service End Page: The Rules of Style
Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2015. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 18, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
E LWAYS .C O M C H E R RY C R E E K • D OW N TOW N • VA I L • D I A
SOMETHING’S UP! Spring is a time of renewal, and there’s a whole lot of renewing going on at Andrisen Morton. Beyond the remarkable new spring/summer 2015 collections we’ve assembled to refresh your wardrobe and brighten your attitude, we’ve embarked on a months-long project to transform the store into something bigger, better and most definitely cooler. In the meantime it’s business as usual—with a little “unusual” thrown in to keep things interesting.
We invite you to stop in and see what’s up. Because in the end, it’s all about you. As always, our warmest regards,
Craig & Dave
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P E R F O R M A N C E
C O L L E C T I O N
S O F T
I’m so confused about tie widths: how wide should they be for 2015?
CRAIG & LINDSAY
My staple clothing item for spring is a navy blazer: what more do I need? You’ve got the right idea! A navy blazer can take you virtually anywhere: throw it over a polo shirt for lunch at the golf club or over a dress shirt for a nice dinner out. What more do you need? How about a brighter shade of blue for an upbeat summer alternative, and/or a lightweight cashmere blazer (once again, go blue) for that extra touch of softness and style? While three blue blazers might seem excessive, trust us: you’ll get so many compliments, you just might come back for more.
I have a formal wedding coming up this summer: do I need a new tux or can I wear what’s in my closet? If you haven’t purchased a tux in a few years, you definitely need a new one. Today’s models are slimmer, lighter weight and more comfortable than the ones you own, and the fabrics are more beautiful. Lapel options are numerous (peak, shawl, traditional) so try on a few to see which is most flattering. Another way to modernize: try navy instead of black.
It is a bit confusing since there are various widths that are now acceptable, depending on the width of your jacket lapel and the type of shirt collar. One thing is certain, however: acceptable widths have been narrowing for the past several years. We like 8.5 cm (3.35 inches) as a good go-to width for most of today’s suits and sportcoats (the hipster look is decidedly narrower); just a few seasons back it was 9.5 cm (3.75 inches). Visit us for some new neckwear that will keep you up to date!
I noticed lots of young guys walking around without socks last summer. Aside from the hygiene aspect, is this no-sock look sartorially acceptable? (Won’t guys ruin their shoes, not to mention their feet?) It’s definitely a fashion look among trend-setters, so much so, in fact, that we now sell no-show socks that hit below the ankle and give a sockless appearance while protecting both your shoes and your feet. If you’re going for this trendy look, we suggest buying some no-show socks. That said, we prefer the look of a classic or whimsical sock with both dress and casual shoes (and sport socks with athletic shoes). Especially in 2015 when there are so many fashion-forward options in color and pattern, why not make a sock statement? Let your hosiery reflect your personality!
All things come from the Earth XENOPHANES
“It’s all about relationships. People shop with people they like and trust.” MANAR HAFFAR Sales Associate Manar Haffar was born in Damascus, Syria into a family with a long history as textile manufacturers. But instead of joining the family business, Manar earned an economics degree from the University of Damascus. He came to Denver in 1994 to pursue a graduate degree in international trade and took a sales position at the old Foley’s to support himself. He soon found he belonged in the clothing business after all. Manar’s charm, unique perspective and impeccable sense of style led to 18 successful years at Nordstrom, which is where he met his wife. He finds our family-owned independent store gives him the broad freedom and flexibility to help his customers in ways that were not encouraged in a large department store setting. HOBBIES: Working out, travel and options trading. FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Although he’s traveled extensively in the Middle East, Europe and Scandinavia, for real relaxation Manar heads to the beaches of Mexico’s Mayan Riviera. KNOWN FOR MAKING: Reservations; his wife is the cook in the family. WHAT HE’D WEAR EVERY DAY IF HE COULD: Nice jeans, open-collar shirt and a blazer. “It’s important to look good on days off too.” WHY CUSTOMERS LOVE SHOPPING AT AM: “It’s all about relationships. People shop with people they like and trust.”
new faces STEPHANIE DEANNE DUDLEY
Meet the always-sunny Stephanie Deanne Dudley, the voice that answers our phone and the smiling face of customer service. A cute side-note: her middle name honors the woman who first introduced her parents. A Denver native, Stephanie grew up wanting to be famous or an interior designer. She attended CSU and Metro State, ultimately earning a B.S. in hospitality with a business minor. Prior to joining the Andrisen Morton family, Stephanie worked at Columbine Country Club, and before that, TJ Maxx. One of her long-term goals is to own a bed-and-breakfast. For the time being, we’re so happy our customers are the ones who get to enjoy her hospitality.
It’s been nearly two years since the lively and multi-talented Jennifer Mines began brightening our customer service department. She studied children’s ministry at Northwest University and previously worked for Global Communications and Aelo Solar in management and administrative roles. Growing up, Jennifer dreamed of becoming a famous wildlife photographer and still pursues photography as a hobby. In fact, she shot the photos at our last Santa Claus Saturday event. A native of Sedro Woolley, Washington—known as the Tulip Town—Jennifer left the rainy gloom of the Northwest for sunny Denver in 2011. And we’re so very glad she did!
CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Sarah Jessica Parker.
CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKES: When younger, Julia Roberts; today, Amy Adams.
HOBBIES: Reading, knitting, baking and camping.
HOBBIES: Photography, running, and spending time with her one-year-old son.
KNOWN FOR MAKING: Desserts, especially cookies using her grandmother’s recipes.
KNOWN FOR MAKING: Baked tofu parmesan.
FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: A cruise ship: she has cruised the Mediterranean,
FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Anywhere there’s a quiet beach.
the Baltics, the Caribbean and Alaska.
WHAT SHE’D WEAR EVERY DAY IF SHE COULD: Lululemon.
WHAT SHE’D WEAR EVERYDAY IF SHE COULD: A little sundress and sandals. WHY SHE LOVES WORKING AT AM: “The sky’s the limit in helping our customers. I love being able to make people happy.”
Born in Aurora and raised in Littleton, Casey Peth is the newest face you’ll see around the store—or at your door. Casey has loved golf since childhood and aspires to be a teaching pro. As Dave and Craig are avid golfers, it’s not surprising that Casey found Andrisen Morton through golf. Actually, we found him. A single-digit handicapper since he was 12, Casey earned a degree in golf management from the Golf Academy of America. He was employed at Cherry Hills Country Club when he crossed paths with Craig, a longtime member. One thing led to another and Craig made him an offer he couldn’t refuse. Glad you accepted, Casey!
Working quietly behind the scenes handling all of the store’s accounting needs is Katy Jenkins. A Minneapolis native and alumnus of the University of Minnesota, Katy lived in La Crosse, Wisconsin and Chicago before wising-up and moving to Colorado in 1984. She was comptroller at the world-famous Glenwood Hot Springs for nearly a decade and just prior to joining us last September, at Columbine Country Club. Although you won’t likely see her down on the sales floor—which is just the way she likes it—if you do, be sure to say hello.
Delivery & Shipping
HOBBIES: Skiing, reading (currently A Casual Vacancy by J.K. Rowling), crocheting and genealogy. KNOWN FOR MAKING: Homemade spaghetti and chicken Kiev.
CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Ryan Gosling.
FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: San Diego and Mexico.
HOBBIES: Golf. He recently built clubs for his four-year-old son.
WHAT MAKES AM SUCH A WONDERFUL STORE: “It’s a family atmosphere with both the staff
KNOWN FOR MAKING: Barbeque pulled pork and ribs.
and customers. And they know the customer is always number one. Plus, Dave and Craig make
FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Golf in Arizona and on the Big Island’s Kohala Coast,
a great team!”
where his parents have a home. WHAT WOULD HE WEAR EVERY DAY IF HE COULD: Zegna suits. WHAT MAKES AM SUCH A WONDERFUL STORE: “The shopping experience. There’s nothing like this.”
SPRING IS HERE! Find all these great looks at Andrisen Morton. Photography © 2015 Nicholas DeSciose
Outerwear: Gimo’s Shirt: Robert Talbott Jeans: J Brand Belt: W. Kleinberg
Suit: Samuelsohn Dress Shirt: Eton of Sweden Tie: Dolcepunta Shoes: Gravati
Sportcoat: Isaia Shirt: Isaia 5 Pocket: PT05 Belt: W. Kleinberg
Reversible Belts: W. Kleinberg
Sweater: Gran Sasso Shirt: Giannetto PortoďŹ no Trouser: PT01
Sweater: Paul & Shark Shirt: Paul & Shark Trouser: PT01 Shoes: Magnanni
Suit: Canali Shirt: Canali Tie: Canali Shoes: Di Bianco
Suede Blazer: Gimoâ€™s Shirt: Robert Talbott 5 Pocket: Gardeur
Suit: Samuelsohn Shirt: Eton of Sweden Tie: Ermenegildo Zegna Lapel Flower: Edward Armah Shoes: Gravati
Sportcoat: Boglioli Shirt: Masonâ€™s Jeans: AG Belt: W. Kleinberg
Vest: Herno Sweater: Peter Millar Shirt: Peter Millar Pant: Peter Millar Shoes: Gravati
LEFT Blazer: Ermenegildo Zegna Shirt: Robert Talbott 5 Pocket: PT05 Lapel Flower: Edward Armah Shoe: Magnanni RIGHT Kei Jacket: Canali Shirt: Eton of Sweden 5 Pocket: PT05 Lapel Flower: Edward Armah Shoe: Rancourt
Athleisure has been dubbed the trend in menswear fashion for spring 2015.
ALL ABOUT BOWIE
David Bowie Is, a traveling exhibition created by the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, is also a documentary filmed on the last night of the V&A exhibition covering Bowie’s career as “one of the most pioneering and influential performers of our time.” In addition to displaying over 400 objects (including photography, album art, original fashions and handwritten lyrics), the exhibition includes video installations “to create an immersive journey through Bowie’s artistic life.” David Bowie Is highlights the musician’s influence on all aspects of the arts and popular culture. Since Chicago was the only U.S. city to host the exhibition (at its Museum of Contemporary Art), the documentary was created to give an insiders’ view to people who couldn’t attend. Say the exhibition’s curators, Victoria Broackes and Geoffery Marsh, “We are delighted that as this extraordinary exhibition travels the world, people will get the chance to immerse themselves in a cinematic experience from the original London show. The film offers fascinating detail about key objects from the David Bowie archive, commentary from special guest contributors and a fantastic soundtrack!” —EMD
This active-inspired style is street chic: think tailored sweatpants and joggers, technical outerwear, modern fleece tops, performance fabrics and designer sneakers. And while you might appear to be headed to the gym, the luxe fabrics and stylistic designs make it so you don’t have to. Michael Fisher from Fashion Snoops, a New York-based trend forecasting agency, explains athleisure as “a subtle technical approach that comes alive in interesting fabric combinations, pieced construction and lightweight layers that mimic the sportif lifestyle.” Come into the store and we’ll help you achieve this active look without breaking a sweat. —EMD
DAVID BOWIE IS IMAGES BY NATHAN KEAY COURTESY OF MCA CHICAGO; RUNWAY IMAGE COURTESY OF ZEGNA
the FASHION forum
The Fashion Forum
Labor of Love IMAGE COURTESY OF KENTON MICHAEL
Men of the Cloth, a poignant documentary about Italian master tailors directed by Vicki Vasilopoulos, is must-see viewing for anyone who appreciates fine men’s clothing. This story of artistry, passion and pride is sure to inform and inspire. The painstaking process of creating a hand-crafted suit that conforms to the body and enhances the male form is broken down step-by-step by dedicated old-world craftsmen who fear that this expertise will vanish when they do. Fortunately, today’s resurgence of popular interest in artisanal craftsmanship as an alternative to mass production provides hope for the future of this venerable art form. Check out MenofTheClothFilm.com for screenings; the film will also be available on DVD and streaming from iTunes and Amazon.
HOT TREND: BRACELETS Spring is the season to show off your wrists as bracelets become the latest trend in men’s accessories. You can be creative with styling this look, as there’s no one way to wear them and there’s no one bracelet to wear. Mix and match different styles and materials—from metals to leathers, beads to stones. Stack them with your watch or call attention to the opposite wrist. The options are endless, so roll up your sleeves and have fun with it. —EMD
COOL SCHOOL Brunello Cucinelli is making it cool to learn the art of tailoring. He’s investing in young talent with his launch of the Solomeo School, a tailoring academy for the next generation of apprentices. In order to open the school, Cucinelli acquired the business branch of Sartoria d’Avenza, an Italian specialty maker of men’s ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits. There are four programs offered at the Solomeo School: two for Cucinelli’s direct business (Mending and Linking, Cutting and Assembly) and two to aid in the future of Solomeo (Horticulture and Gardening, Masonry). Cucinelli says, “The school is meant to be a vivid and concrete experience in which learning a craft occurs in an environment imbued with humanistic values… Like workshops back in the Renaissance, these are a noble expression of craftsmanship, halfway between art and technique; they complete the human, cultural and spiritual training that, I hope, might stir in our youth the desire to grow up and question itself, the honesty to admit one’s mistakes, the ability to use manual skills to serve intelligence and to be ‘concretely creative.’” The first program runs from October 2014 to June 2015. By training craftsmen for the future, Cucinelli intends to keep the quality in the craft, and in his apparel collections, for years to come. —EMD
as i see it
DAVE MORTON PONDERS “WHAT’S NEW?” The question “What’s new?” drives and deﬁnes stores like ours. But new isn’t just about how styles or tastes are changing. Nor is it simply debuting new merchandise twice a year. At Andrisen Morton, new also means being relevant to our customers today and tomorrow. When we built the Cherry Creek North store 15 years ago, it was state-of-the-industry. Today, though it’s been enhanced with the Isaia and Cucinelli shops, and the remodeled Ermenegildo Zegna shop-in-shop, not so much. Our customers and employees deserve better. The time has come to re-imagine an even better Andrisen Morton shopping experience. After all, it’s all about you, our great customers. Your friendship, trust and loyalty give us the platform to reinvest in a modern, next-generation store: a more spacious store, a store with as much as 40% more merchandise, with more of the world’s top brands—a store you’ll love to shop in even more than you do today. So in the coming months, you’ll see the new Andrisen Morton taking shape. But rest assured, one thing will remain the same during the remodeling and after we re-grand open in the fall: our single-minded pursuit of giving you the absolute very best personal attention and service that got us here in the ﬁrst place.
“At Andrisen Morton, new also means being relevant to our customers today and tomorrow.” 36
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HOW TO GET THE RELATIONSHIP YOU WANT
WE CAN’T HELP YOU WITH LOVE OR MARRIAGE, BUT WE CAN CERTAINLY IMPROVE AN EQUALLY ESSENTIAL RELATIONSHIP: THE ONE BETWEEN YOU AND YOUR CLOTHING SALESPERSON! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
Consider this: There’s probably just one person in the universe who truly wants you to look fabulous all the time. Yes, he also
wants to sell you stuff, but he knows that if you don’t look and feel terrific in your purchase, you’re less likely to come back to the store or give referrals. This person, if inspired, can make your life easier and more fulfilling. Hard to believe? Then you haven’t maximized your relationship with your primary sales associate. Here, a few tips to get you started. • First and foremost: If you don’t have a preferred sales associate, find one. It’s as simple as walking around the selling floor and approaching an associate whose style you admire, someone you can relate to and feel comfortable with. (The other option is to ask the store owner and let him make the match.) • Make an in-store appointment with this person. Your time is valuable and there’s no need to start from scratch each time you need something. Then let him know how you prefer to communicate— phone, email, text, etc.—and how often. • Over-communicate with your sales associate at the beginning, providing as much information as possible about your life, job, fashion preferences, favorite brands, comfort level for experimentation and favorite items (around which to build a future wardrobe). • If you’re comfortable with it, indulge in a closet consultation where your sales associate comes to your home and goes through your wardrobe. The goal is to give away clothing that no longer works (your college sweatshirt and Landlubber jeans, those DB suits with huge padded shoulders) and to fill in with a few new items to ultimately update your image. You’ll be amazed at how liberating it feels to clear the clutter! • Be open to trying new things. We all get stuck in fashion ruts and
IMAGE COURTESY OF LARRIMOR’S
have trouble envisioning ourselves in a new look. But trust us: a small change can make all the difference! Even a minor adjustment (a different collar spread, a new color tie or sweater, slimmer-fit trousers, cool shoes) can greatly modernize your appearance. • Don’t forget to share your wedding anniversary and spouse’s birthday: your sales associate can make you a hero at least twice a year!
WOULD YOU PASS THE
MODERN FIT TEST? ANSWER THE QUESTIONS BELOW TO FIND OUT IF YOUR SUIT IS MAKING YOU LOOK OLDER, HEFTIER, OUT OF SHAPE, OR SIMPLY OUT OF DATE.
The width of the shoulders (point to point) should complement your body. If padding is extending the suit shoulders beyond your natural shoulders, then your suit is too old.
Lapels are slimmer, though your personal style will dictate how slim. If you can make the leap, try combining slim lapels and narrower ties for a sharp, stylish look. You’ll be surprised at how this takes years off your perceived age.
Sleeves are trimmer and armholes higher than before. This is how Europeans have been wearing their suits for years, allowing for arm movement so you don’t lift up your entire jacket each time you raise your arms.
Modern dress pants should sit a bit lower on the waist and end higher off the ground than before, so forget the old rules about where pants should break. We like to say that the bottom of the pant should “caress” the top of the shoe. The good news: people can see more of that fabulous footwear you’re now wearing.
If you failed this test or have any questions, come in and try on some modern clothing. We guarantee that you’ll see, and appreciate, the difference.
IMAGE COURTESY OF LUIGI BIANCHI MANTOVA
Take the button test. If, when you button your two-button suit, the bottom button hits at or below your waistline, it’s definitely time to shop for new clothing. Also, with your arms down, the bottom of your jacket should reach your knuckles, not your fingertips.
ON THE ROAD
OUR FAVORITE MEN OF STYLE SHARE THEIR SUMMER ESCAPE PLANS. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE SAM KU, AG Adriano Goldschmied Where are you off to? After shooting our spring 2015 ad campaign with Daria Werbowy in Montauk, I felt that it would be a great place to bring my family in the summer. I’m from Los Angeles, so the beaches on the East Coast have such a different, romantic vibe. Also, the Hamptons have some amazing golf courses!
What are you most excited to do on this trip? The area is so chic, but laid-back at the same time. I like checking out the boutiques on Main Street, having a lobster roll at one of the many amazing seafood spots, and enjoying lots of beach time. I’m looking forward to soaking it all in, and hopefully running into Ina Gartner, The Barefoot Contessa—my wife’s absolute favorite.
What book or music will you bring along to help you unwind? When driving around, I’m sure we’ll put on a pretty wide variety of music. I have a seven-year-old daughter and a four-year-old son. When we’re on a long car ride, we’ll hook up Spotify and each person gets to pick a song that we all have to listen to. We’ll play everything from Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros to Bob Marley to the Disney Cars soundtrack, even some Miley. It’s the craziest range of music you’ll ever hear.
What are your must-pack items? My everyday jeans are the Nomad in a raw denim from Kaihara, an amazing Japanese mill. I’ve worn this particular pair for about a year, nearly every day, and the wear marks are beautiful. Another must-pack item would be cashmere layering pieces from our Made in Italy collection; nothing keeps you the perfect temperature like cashmere does. For the course, I’m looking forward to breaking out some attire from our new men’s golf brand, AG Green Label. Everything in the collection has the performance element needed for the course, while still looking sharp and modern so I can head straight to dinner with the family after my round.
ANDREA BENEDINI, Luigi Bianchi Mantova Where are you off to? I am planning a relaxing trip because in January I became a father for the second time. I will spend part of the summer with the whole family at a resort in Portugal.
What are you most excited to do on this trip? I am very excited to see Lisbon and the ocean, and do very simple things like walking on the beach. I believe everything can be an adventure with my two-year-old daughter and my newborn.
What book or music will you bring along to help you unwind? I rarely listen to music but I absolutely need to have a few good books with me at all times. I will make space in my luggage for Georges Simenon for sure, and probably a couple of Portuguese authors, to better appreciate and get closer to the local culture. Josè Saramago and Fernando Pessoa will be good friends indeed.
What are your must-pack items? I have three favorites. I will bring with me two L.B.M. 1911 jackets—a neutral one in light beige cotton, and a madras check cotton/linen blazer—then a completely unlined Luigi Bianchi Mantova blazer in Loro Piana fabric. I need it for at least one romantic dinner with my wife! White pants also are a summer must for me.
BOB CORLISS, Robert Talbott Where are you off to? In mid-May I will be traveling to Watkins Glen, NY to participate in one of the Atlantic Championship Series Pro Races for Formula Atlantic. The race takes place at Watkins Glen International, one of the most storied race tracks in history and the site of the first Formula One Grand Prix in America.
What are you most excited to do on this trip? The race itself is exciting, so I’m looking forward to that. But being in this part of the country also provides me the opportunity to interface with some of our Robert Talbott specialty store customers, as well as spend time in our Fifth Avenue Showroom in New York City.
What book or music will you bring along to help you unwind? I’m reading The Century Trilogy by Ken Follett. By May I expect to be reading the third book in the series, Edge of Eternity.
What are your must-pack items? Our Robert Talbott Marin Soft Coat is something I take on every trip. It’s a must-have because of its versatility, comfort, fit and style. It pairs well with denim and can be dressed up or down as needed.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, Brunello Cucinelli Where are you off to? For summer vacations, I love Sardegna, Corsica and Greece. I find that the islands in the Mediterranean have such a magical atomosphere.
What are you most excited to do on this trip? To take the opportunity to relax and read, take walks and enjoy the environment. I love to get lost in my thoughts.
What books will you bring along to help you unwind? For sure The Memories of Adriano by Marguerite Yourcenar. I always bring this with me as well the Meditations of Marco Aurelius.
What are your must-pack items? A bathing suit in a high-quality technical fabric, a beach towel in soft cotton and a cashmere scarf for a breezy evening chatting amongst friends.
SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, Eton Where are you off to?
I will be going to Japan for two weeks where I’ll visit Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and venture up Mount Fuji.
What are you most excited to do on this trip? I’m most excited about going up Mount Fuji, visiting Zen temples and looking at traditional architecture.
What book or music will you bring along to help you unwind? The two books will be Jiddu Krishnamurti’s The Only Revolution and Alan Watts’ autobiography In My Own Way. I will most likely be listening to a whole lot of Swedish music, such as Trail of Feathers and Ebba Grön. I always listen to Chopin, Tom Waits and Muddy Waters, and have been for years!
What is your must-pack item? A black linen shirt with a button-down collar.
GIANLUCA ISAIA, Isaia Where are you off to? When you live two minutes away from your newly opened boutique on Capri, it is very hard to go anywhere else! I love having a coffee or aperitivo with our customers as they enhance their personal style and choose fabrics. I love seeing what they choose.
What else do you enjoy doing there? In Capri the must-go spots are Blu Grotto, Aurora Restaurant for dinner, and the Axel Munthe villa.
What book or music will help you unwind? Since I love live music, you will most likely find me at Taverna Anema e Core where the Neapolitan music is fantastic. Make sure to spend one crazy night there when you are in Capri.
What is your must-pack item? I never leave without my handmade leather sandals. I even wear them with suits when it is not summer! (I think George Clooney tried to do this one time too... I will not say which one of us looked better.) We created an Isaia leather sandal that is simple, yet fun and elegant, that I take with me everywhere.
ARNOLD SILVERSTONE, Samuelsohn Where are you off to? No plans for the summer months, but each September I go to the Italian Alps to race with the Ferrari club, which is an incredible experience.
What are you most excited to do on this trip? This past year I raced with the new Ferrari F12—a 700 horsepower, 12 cylinder powerhouse. Who knows what new toy they’ll have for me next September!
What book or music will you bring along to help you unwind? The sound of the engine is my favorite music.
What are your must-pack items? The Samuelsohn Performance 12-pocket blazer is my ultimate travel companion. It is wrinkle and water resistant, versatile and perfect for all occasions.
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JACOB COHEN: DENIM, ITALIAN-STYLE
Jacob Cohen was founded on the idea of re-interpreting jeans in a way that’s both stylish and comfortable. This Italian brand makes its jeans from rare Japanese denim on original vintage looms in Padova, a small area of the Veneto region. In addition to the incredible tailored fits, Jacob Cohen denim offers remarkable extras like silver-plated rivets, pony hair labels in a variety of colors, selvedge details, embroidered accents, pockets lined in shirting fabrics and an extra spool of thread. But most impressive are the various washing and finishing techniques that the denim goes through in the company’s own wash facility. Must-haves include denim in clean, sophisticated washes and cotton chinos in rich colors. Beyond denim, the collection has recently expanded into suits and shirting made from luxurious fabrics like cottons, wools and cashmere blends.
FAHERTY: TWICE AS NICE Twin brothers Alex and Mike Faherty launched Faherty in 2013 as a luxurious weekend-wear brand. Mike was a designer for Ralph Lauren’s RRL brand, so he brings that casual luxe vibe to the collection. Faherty’s fabric patterns are all designed by Mike, and as Alex (who handles the business side) explains, “They’re colorful and appealing to a wide range of guys. Our shirting is soft and buttery; our washes make new shirts feel old but still luxurious.” For spring, Faherty is evolving from its beautiful woven shirts to knits like indigo polo shirts that feel “manly and traditional.” Another must-have is the brand’s All Day short. The brothers developed a quick-dry fabric for a short that acts as a hybrid between a cotton chino and a swimsuit. Available in five colors (olive, khaki, charcoal, baby blue and Nantucket red), this short will quickly become an essential part of your weekend wardrobe.
CANALI: SOPHISTICATED OFFHAND STYLE Canali has a new creative consultant, Andrea Pompilio, whose talent is widely recognized in the fashion world. As a careful observer of life, Pompilio draws his inspiration from the small everyday gestures and individual expressions of people he encounters on the streets of big cities throughout the world. His talent lies in his ability to give a twist to the classic male wardrobe, reinterpreting shapes, fabrics, patterns and classic colors in an unconventional and unexpected way. Pompilio’s spring ’15 collection is an intersection of existing heritage and newfound inspiration. It fuses the values and excellence of classic tailoring with the unstructured elegance of leisure. He enjoys finding the perfect balance between these two worlds, brought together by complementary attraction. Starting with the Canali man’s refined attention to detail, Pompilio designs clothing to bring out the unexpected aspects of his style. The lines on suits and sportcoats are soft, lean and comfortable, often featuring checks or horizontal stripes. Trousers rest just at the ankle and are finished with a particularly high (8 cm) cuff. Rounding out the collection are colorful oversized sweaters, casually exquisite shoes in nubuck crocodile or soft two-tone calfskin, parkas, light jackets and long car coats worn over ultra-fine cashmere T-shirts, all glowing with the radiant palette of a Mediterranean summer. For guys who appreciate sophisticated classics but long to express their own personality, the new Canali collection is sure to please.
Above: designer Andrea Pompilio
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA: LUXURY MEETS TECHNOLOGY Already the world’s preeminent maker of luxury menswear, Zegna knows a thing or two about innovation and evolution. For spring/summer 2015, check out their luxurious high-tech fabrics, exclusive patterns, rich new color palette (teal, mauve, shades of blue mixed with light gray, forest green, indigo and camel) and blending of modern design with old-world craftsmanship. Among the many must-haves in store for the season: lots of versatile lightweight outerwear. Styles include sophisticated safari jackets, city coats and blazers; fabrics feature Zegna’s exclusive Trofeo cloth bonded with a breathable membrane (40 percent lighter than previous versions), making these jackets trans-seasonal, water-resistant and very contemporary. If you haven’t bought a warm weather suit lately, now’s the time! Zegna’s summer suits and trousers are made from virtually weightless fabrics including soft, naturally elastic, high-performance wool (15.5 microns) and Trofeo mohair (both surprisingly cool). Seersucker and micro-patterns add a dimension that’s elegant, refined and individually expressive. Most important: Zegna’s soft unlined sportcoats in somewhat shorter lengths will update your image, whether you’re dressing up or dressing down. The finishing summer touches: a silk/cotton tie, polished leather shoes with inverted seams (or sneakers with contrast details if you’re feeling sporty) and the quintessential soft leather bag.
SAMUELSOHN: DESIGN FOR LIFE Three years ago, Samuelsohn was a hidden gem. Based in Montreal, the company founded by master tailor Lesser Samuelsohn in 1923 was still making remarkable full-canvas garments the old-fashioned way, but it wasn't well known outside its league of loyal customers. That's changing. President and designer Arnold Brant Silverstone has managed to double the 90-year-old company without compromising its quality. More than eight hours of work goes into a Samuelsohn suit—they are all full canvas with one-piece collars and hand-sewn armholes. Today there are three collections: Performance, which features innovative waterproof and wrinkle-free wools; Collection, the classic full-canvas line that made Samulesohn's name; and Soft, a lighter collection of full-canvas jackets and suiting for evenings and weekends. “Our Performance line uses a Loro Piana fabric called Extreme that’s exclusive to us,” says Silverstone. “It’s the first Loro Piana fabric with natural stretch and also waterproofing. It’s a beautiful super 120s and 130s wool from Italy that looks rich, but also performs.” Samuelsohn's made-to-measure program is exceptional, both for its quick delivery and the tailors' abilities to make just about anything. “I've never seen a factory that can do what they do,” Silverstone marvels. “We’re a North American company,” he adds proudly. “We understand our customer and we live his lifestyle—we understand the fit and the fabrics and we're designing just for him.”
STYLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC STYLING BY WENDY MCNETT & WILLIAM BUCKLEY HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY
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HUG YOUR CUSTOMER, AGAIN!
AND AGAIN! IN OUR TECHNOLOGY-DRIVEN ERA, THE RE-RELEASE OF THIS 10-YEAR-OLD CLASSIC REINFORCES THE VALUE OF RELATIONSHIP SELLING. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
About 10 years ago, a second-generation specialty store apparel merchant based in Westport, Connecticut wrote a little book on customer service. The inspiration for so doing was an industry conference that predicted online retailing would soon put brick and mortar stores out of business. Jack Mitchell was one of the speakers but he didn’t buy into the premise: his family’s two apparel stores were among the most successful in the country, if not the world. Yet their secret was neither high-tech nor profound: treat customers first as people, then as clients. Caring inspires loyalty, which inspires increased sales. The initial version of Hug Your Customers: The Proven Way to Personalize Sales and Achieve Outstanding Results is now in its 17th printing, having sold well over 200,000 copies in North America and tens of thousands around the world (Brazil, Japan, China, Russia, Mexico, the UK, even Estonia!). What’s more, Jack Mitchell suddenly became a highly sought-after motivational speaker who has presented at more than 200 conferences around the globe. Why? In this writer’s opinion, the book is not just a guide to personalized selling but, in a very real sense, a manual for living a more meaningful life. I know it’s changed mine. “The heart of the re-release is the same as the original but with a new preface and, ironically, a new take on technology, the very thing that many predicted would put specialty stores out of business,” says Mitchell. Since the book’s original publication, the Mitchells purchased two iconic
stores 3,000 miles across America during the worst recession of our time, and more recently launched a highly personalized interactive website that somehow manages to convey their culture of hugging through cyberspace. The essence of the book is tough to sum up; it’s Mitchell’s marvelous anecdotes that bring it to life. Among my favorites: the time he opened the store on a Sunday just so a woman could buy her irate husband new underwear. (She was in the process of moving and had inadvertently packed and shipped all his boxers…) It was a small sale but Jack was happy to make it, theorizing that he might have saved a marriage! (Editor’s note: How did this stranger reach the store owner on a Sunday? A family member’s personal phone number is always on the store answering machine after hours.) And the time when, with the CEO of a luxury cruise line, Mitchell came up with the idea of lending tuxedos to male passengers (and offering on-board alterations) in order to raise the bar on dress code. The concept worked brilliantly, despite the fact that they didn’t offer footwear; guys would show up for dinners in their elegant tuxes worn with brown boat shoes or scuffed sneakers. Still, once seated, they looked great in the professional photos. The elevated mood among passengers jumpstarted sales in the casino and throughout the ship, as well as bookings for future cruises. Thinking out of the box, cooperation instead of competition, creating a hugging culture, challenges not problems, the power of new: there’s much to learn from this wonderful book. “I’ve added some new insights and fresh stories to the updated edition,” notes Mitchell, who defines a hug as any personal touch that impresses or delights. “But the key message I want to convey is that hugging worked 10 years ago, it’s working today and I believe it will work 100 years from now. So try it! It might start out as a business strategy but it quickly becomes a way of life.”
THIS BOOK, WRITTEN BY OUR FRIEND AND COLLEAGUE JACK MITCHELL, REFLECTS OUR THEORY OF PERSONALIZED SELLING AND CAN REVOLUTIONIZE YOUR BUSINESS.” —Dave Morton and Craig Andrisen, Andrisen Morton
THE FINEST CLOTHES DEMAND THE FINEST CLEANERS. Andrisen Morton sells only the ﬁnest men’s clothing from the world’s best designers. La Nouvelle knows how to clean those world-class garments properly. Trust your wardrobe to La Nouvelle, the only dry cleaner and launderer recommended by Andrisen Morton.
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BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
Experience life’s little luxuries. THE LATEST SCOOP Ice cream is one of the great joys of spring and summer. (Actually, it brings joy all year.) Perhaps you’ve heard of High Road Craft Ice Cream, considered by many foodies to be the best in America. Chef Keith Schroeder originally created the artisanal treats just for chefs, but word spread and fascinating flavors such as Pistachio Honey Ricotta, Mango Chili Lime and Bourbon Burnt Sugar, along with elevated classics (think Vanilla Fleur de Sel), are now available to the public. What you might not know is that High Road also crafts bespoke ice cream. You can request your favorite ingredients, or if you’ve discovered a rare chocolate or happen to grow pecans in your backyard, supply your own. May we suggest chocolate with chocolate topped with chocolate?
MOSEY OUT WEST AND SIT A SPELL
Feel a hankering to get away from it all? Looking for peace and serenity? Big Sky Resort in southwest Montana, between Bozeman and West Yellowstone, is famous for skiing in winter and also offers a tranquil getaway during the warmer months. Half Hitch Home, one of the resort’s Signature Lodging Properties, is a three-level log house that boasts five bedrooms, five bathrooms, two full kitchens, a theater room with seating for eight, an exercise room, a game room, a spacious sunroom with hot tub, and three living rooms decorated in the western style. A private concierge will arrange transportation and deliveries of groceries and liquor (a wine connoisseur chooses wines from the resort’s impressive selection), schedule a masseur and book a Montanatrained chef who specializes in preparing wild game such as bison, elk and pheasant. Sounds as fine as cream gravy.
BOTTLE ART ALCOHOL BRANDS SUPPORT THE ARTS AND FASHION. While you’re probably familiar with the wine and cheese served at art gallery openings, or jazz concerts held on winery lawns, you may not know how significant a role fine alcohol plays in supporting and promoting fine arts and fashion. There are the sponsorships: Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week, Coachella, Art Basel and so on. Some brands go beyond hosting after parties, as Stoli did in 2012: it partnered with designers at Sachika to create gowns inspired by the vodka's newest flavors. And of course, Absolut introduced the concept of bottle as art in 1986. Andy Warhol suggested creating a piece that incorporated the nowiconic bottle, thus launching the first of the Swedish vodka’s innovative print ads. The brand reportedly has a massive storeroom of Absolut-inspired or sponsored artwork to rival the government warehouse where the Ark of the Covenant was stashed in Indiana Jones. Other producers take their involvement to the next level. This past November, The Macallan single-malt Scotch whisky released the fifth in its series of Masters of Photography collaborations, this time highlighting the work of fashion photographer Mario Testino. With each collaboration, Macallan commissions original works from the likes of Annie Leibovitz, Elliot Erwin and others centered around a relevant theme (Erwin shot around Scotland, Leibovitz incorporated Scottish actor Kevin McKidd’s chiseled looks into a variety of drink-worthy settings). Macallan’s whisky maker Bob Dalgarno crafts unique expressions of Macallan inspired by the theme and the
images. This year, Testino interprets Macallan’s ‘‘Six Pillars’’ of craftsmanship (small stills, oak casks, natural color, spiritual home, finest cut and the whisky itself) through four iconic images. One thousand Mario Testino editions were made, costing $3,500 each. That price bags you one of the Testino images, a unique expression of Macallan specially blended from six special casks, minis of the six individual casks, and a lacquer box also designed by Testino. Bottle closures have become a popular venue for partnering with woodworkers, jewelers and sculptors. DeLeon Tequila (relaunched this year by hip hop mogul Sean ‘‘Diddy’’ Combs) boasts an ornate (and heavy) silver bottle cap crafted by ‘‘biker jewelry’’ designer Bill Wall. Last year, Patrón teamed up with Evan Yurman, design director for David Yurman timepieces, to create a limited-edition bottle stopper for Patrón Añejo tequila. The $55 metal die-cast stopper is designed to look like the handle of a samurai sword, electroplated in gunmetal and 24K gold. Not every affiliation requires direct involvement with the bottle. Two years ago, Chivas partnered with luxury automobile designer Pininfarina to craft the Chivas 18 Mascherone, an edition of five streamlined sculptures/display cabinets selling for $100,000 each. And last year, Italian leather company Poltrana Frau was inspired to create a special edition of the company’s 1919 wingback chair, inspired by winemaker Lamberto Frescobaldi’s Luce della Vite wine. Dyed an intense Sangiovese red, it features an oak-lined cupholder attachment (for your wine glass) and monogrammed brass plate.
IMAGE COURTESY OF THE MACALLAN SCOTCH
BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
The irresistable power of passion.
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former General Mills VP, started the program in 2006 after she found prosperity through a personal practice. Marturano has since gone on to found the Institute for Mindful Leadership, a non-profit organization where she now works with clients like Target, The United States Army, The United States Air Force, Procter & Gamble and The Mayo Clinic. The company organizes workshops and retreats that are described as ways to “explore the intersection of mindfulness training and the qualities associated with leadership excellence. With dedication and practice, employees transform their leadership abilities and their environments into places of increased innovation, greater focus, improved productivity and widespread compassion.” Oprah Winfrey is one high-profile exec who practices transcendental meditation (TM). She gives interested employees access to teachers and time to practice at work. In a post on Oprah.com, she revealed that her 20-minute morning sessions leave her feeling “full of hope, a sense of contentment and deep joy. Knowing for sure that even in the daily craziness that bombards us from every direction, there is—still—the constancy of stillness. Only from that space can you create your best work and your best life.” Founder and former-CEO of Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, Robert Stiller, created meditation rooms in his offices as a place for employees to find that stillness. Stiller once told Bloomberg News, “If you have a meditation practice, you can be much more effective in a meeting. Meditation helps develop your abilities to focus better and to accomplish your tasks.’’ Aetna CEO Mark Bertolini implemented corporate wellness and mindfulness programs including Mind-Body Stress Reduction, Metabolic Health in Small Bytes, and Healthy Lifestyle Coaching. (A spokesperson for the company tells us that approximately 13,000 Aetna employees have participated in at least one.) In 2012, Aetna launched the Mind-Body Stress Reduction Program in order to “help participants reduce their perceived stress levels while improving their ability to respond to stress.” Since then the company reports that “participants are regaining 62 minutes of productivity, with an approximate dollar return, in terms of productivity alone, of more than $3,000.” Finding stillness in an otherwise stressful world is not always easy. But the more you practice meditation, the better you’ll become at quieting the clutter. Your mind—and your company’s bottom line—will thank you!
THE ANCIENT PRACTICE OF MEDITATION IS MAKING ITS WAY INTO THE BOARD ROOM. BY ELISE DIAMANTINI We live in a high-stress world where it has become more difficult than ever to disconnect. So how do we find peace of mind when we’re constantly being pulled in a million different directions? When our worklife pressures are becoming increasingly intense, we’re always on call, and never without a smart phone… or two? Meditation is becoming more common in corporate America, since many top-level execs have discovered the benefits from their own personal practices. Some companies now offer mediation spaces at the office, to encourage employees to de-stress, rebalance and find clarity. General Mills was one of the first corporations to encourage and execute mindfulness practices in the workplace. Janice Marturano, a
IMAGE COURTESY OF YOGA FOR BAD PEOPLE
Want to get back into that vacation state of mind? Even five minutes of daily meditation can help.
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the art of organization 15
photographed events of the year, attracting such superstars as David Bowie, Madonna and Sarah Jessica Parker, who wowed the crowd last year in an extravagantly trained black-and-white dress by Oscar de la Renta. (The benefits are overseen by Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, for whom the Met’s Anna Wintour Costume Center is named.) This year, expect Oscar winner Jennifer Lawrence to stand out (literally and figuratively) on the Met’s steps as one of the co-chairs of the May 4 benefit, which precedes the opening of China: Through the Looking Glass. The show will run from May 5 to August 16. Under the guidance of curators Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, and the artistic direction of filmmaker Wong Kar-wai, this groundbreaking exhibition will feature more than 100 pieces of ready-towear, avant-garde clothing and haute couture (including pieces by Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, Paul Smith, Yves St. Laurent and Vivienne Westwood) set alongside Chinese costumes, paintings, porcelains and film stills. “From the earliest period of European contact with China in the 16th century, the West has been enchanted with imagery from the East, providing inspiration for many designers, whose fashions are infused at every turn with romance, nostalgia and make-believe,” says Bolton, who is eager to take all of us through this particular looking glass to provide new reflections on the world of Easterninspired fashion. Start making room in your closet.
THROUGH THE MET’S LOOKING GLASS FASHION AS ART OR ART AS FASHION? BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
JOHN GALLIANO FOR HOUSE OF DIOR, FALL/WINTER 1997-98; IMAGE BY NICK KNIGHT, NICK KNIGHT / TRUNK ARCHIVE COURTESY OF THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART
This summer, there’s a good chance we may be wearing qipaos, cheongsams and Zhongshan suits—even if we’ve never heard of them before. The reason has nothing to do with visiting diplomats from China or the newest blockbuster; instead, look to the remarkable influence of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute (and its annual benefit gala) on fashion trends. The museum has become the “ideal place to explore the rich complexity of the innovative work of a designer like Charles James,” says the museum’s CEO, Thomas Campbell, referring to last year’s popular show Charles James: Beyond Fashion. The exhibit not only resurrected the name and reputation of the great American couturier but reminded viewers of how James’ sculptural creations could flatter the body. True, the Costume Institute has been putting on fashion-related exhibitions for over 50 years, including such landmark shows as The World of Balenciaga, Rock Style and Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed. But its beautifully curated displays have risen to prominence in the last decade, and the result has been a renewed two-way conversation between consumers and the fashion industry. For example, by August 2011, a record-shattering 661,000 visitors had taken in the aptly-named Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, leading to a newfound understanding of—or for some, an introduction to—the intricate creations of the late British designer. Meanwhile, the Met’s annual benefit has become one of the most
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AT YOUR SERVICE
Going above and beyond for customers is the heart and soul of Andrisen Morton’s culture. We believe great merchandise combined with great service is the only way to exceed clients' expectations. HOME/OFFICE VISITS
Sometimes business or life gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. But no worries. We’re more than happy to come to your home or office. So give us a shout and we’re there…
Whether in metro Denver, Colorado Springs, Fort Collins or Vail, if you need a purchase delivered, rest assured you’ll receive it when and where you need it… with a smile.
GIFT CARDS For that hard-to-buy-for kinda guy, give the gift of Andrisen Morton. Stop in or give us a call. We’ll take care of the rest.
MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience, indulge in made-tomeasure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers, or even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will truly be a fit like no other.
ALTERATIONS With six full-time master tailors and seamstresses on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to the finished product. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new purchase.
CLOSET CONSULTATION Is the closet full, but you still can’t find anything to wear? Call in the style pros of Andrisen Morton for a personal closet consultation. You’ll get an objective view of your entire wardrobe and a friendly nudge to gently help you weed out the old, tired and worn to make room for the new.
SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange special appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call and we’ll make it happen.
COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP There’s gift-wrapping and then there’s Andrisen Morton giftwrapping. It’s always complimentary and always with the utmost style and a dash of panache.
WE ARE DENVER REAL ESTATE TM
If you’ll pardon me for tweaking the immortal words of the Declaration of Independence: I hold these truths to be self-evident, that all wardrobes are not created equal. Some men have an unwavering sense of personal style that appears to be hotwired into their DNA, while the sartorially challenged (clearly the majority) can barely coordinate their shirts with their trousers. The Italians call it sprezzatura, this innate ability to make something difficult—like putting together a wardrobe that looks both casual and chic—seem incredibly easy. The ability to dress with style is not so much a matter of genetics as it is an acquired skill. To master the art, one must think of it as a game. To play well, you first need to know the rules.
Rule #3: Feel free to mix patterns on your shirts, jackets and ties. Start out mixing solids, stripes and checks in one color family before moving into the kaleidoscopic fast lane. (Ask your sales associate if you need help!)
Rule #4: Sporty is the new black in menswear, so dress like an athlete even if the closest you ever get to the playing field is through a remote control. Invest in casual pieces like modern sweatshirts and sweaters, and unlined blazers with elbow patches, preferably in opulent materials like cashmere. “It’s all about the illusion of sport. Everybody feels younger dressing in sporty, casual clothes,” explains Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli.
Rule #1: Suits and sportcoats are the foundation of the well-dressed man’s wardrobe. Few understand the art of tailoring better than the Italians, who cut their suits closer to the body, trimmer in the chest and high in the armhole so they fit like a second skin. Pick the style that flatters your shape and always buy the highest quality your bank balance will allow. The hallmarks of fine suit making are easy to spot. Start with the fabric: the finer the cloth, the better the material “drapes.” It’s also the biggest factor in the final cost. Look for canvas inner linings in place of fused or glued components inside the chest, to help retain the jacket’s shape. One way to tell is by pinching the front of the jacket from the bottom front. If you can feel three layers of fabric—the cloth, the lining and the floating canvas inner lining—you’re buying the real deal.
Rule #5: Want to know if a guy is well-dressed? Look down. The first thing a woman notices about a man after his eyes (and sometimes his wallet) is his shoes. Invest in several well-made pairs, both dressy and sporty, preferably in shades of brown, which is the most versatile color. It goes with everything. Monk straps and lace-ups are best with suits; loafers are for sportcoats and jeans. Rotate your footwear as often as your wardrobe allows to keep the leather fresh and supple.
Rule #6: Fit is everything when it comes to denim. Slim cuts in dark washes are dressier, currently on trend and wear well with knitwear and blazers.
Rule #7: Learn to tie a proper tie. It’s all about the knot and the dimple. The knot should be proportionate to the shape of your face and shirt collar. The dimple under the knot shows you took the time to do it right.
Rule #2: When buying a shirt, focus on the collar first. The collar frames the face—your best asset—and should compliment its shape and size. Straight, pointed collars help narrow a round face while spread collars look best with lean faces.
Naturally, it takes practice to become a true paragon of men’s style. Our advice, for both expert and novice, is to start at your favorite men’s shop, pick out the best-dressed sales associate in the room, and let him show you the ropes.
BY BILL KISSEL; IMAGE COURTESY OF BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS
ANDRISEN MORTON FORUM SPRING 2015