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frettolosi - conclude - che alzando gli occhi dai loro smartphone scoprono uno scenario nuovo e coinvolgente. E poi, magari, con lo stesso smartphone entrano idealmente a far parte dell’installazione, scattando foto e selfie». Dopo Milano, sarà la volta di Parigi, in occasione della riapertura a fine marzo della boutique di avenue Montaigne, e di Londra a maggio, all’interno dello store Salvatore Ferragamo in Sloane street.

 «There’s no limit to beauty, nor to one’s ability to satisfy the creative imagination». Words publilshed in Salvatore Ferragamo’s autobiography Shoemaker of dreams, a portrait of the founder of a label that gave birth to the concept of “Made in Italy” and glorified it, finding the meeting place between fashion, art and artisanship. Nobody experimented with materials more than him. Leather is a given, but mostly during the world war, when this material was scarce, Salvatore Ferragamo created incredible shoes made with crochethook stitching in the twine, fibres from Broom trees hand-worked by rural housewives and even cellophane, as well as rayon, cotton and other fibres. It was his idea, way back in 1928, to use the skin of a marine-dweller from the North - the sea leopard - to make some of his hand-made masterpieces. This is a necessary premise to understand a project that is completely unique in its kind. The four shop windows of the Salvatore Ferragamo flagship store at 3 via Montenapoleone in Milan come to life for four weeks with a “sitespecific” and “kinetic” installation, created by the artist Francesca Pasquali, based in Bologna. «I find her works very interesting - reveals the label’s creative director Massimiliano Giornetti -. To understand them, you need to not only look at them but touch them and even “listen” to them. In Francesca’s hands the material takes form in an imaginative way». In the same spirit with which Salvatore Ferragamo started a brand that would have gone very far, Francesca Pasquali gets hold of the material and transforms it into something extraordinary. It already happened two years ago, when with the Sofia Straws project she made for Ferragamo an “artist’s bag”, by applying coloured straws onto one of the label’s most iconic bags. And it’s still happening today, with an initiative focused on the shop: the shell that encloses the collections and communicates their values, meanings and interactions. «I was inspired by the threads and other materials used by the founder of the brand - Francesca explains -. I created an installation based on long, sinewy, brightly coloured bristles that fall from the air and are spaced out with earthy materials, which become scenes in motion through special mechanical devices. «This work is intended to stimulate emotions, even for passers-by who are in a rush - she concludes -. Lifting their eyes from their smartphone screens, they can discover a new and exciting scenario. Ideally, they’ll then enter and become a part of the installation by taking photos and selfies». After Milan, it’s Paris’s turn for the reopening of the boutique store on Avenue Montaigne at the end of March. Next up, it’s London in May inside Salvatore Ferragamo’s store in Sloane Street. A sinistra, la borsa Sofia Straws, realizzata da Francesca Pasquali per Ferragamo nel 2013. Sotto, due iconiche creazioni di Salvatore Ferragamo Left, the Sofia Straws bag, a project dated 2013 by Francesca Pasquali for Ferragamo. Below, two iconic shoes by Salvatore Ferragamo

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A TOUCH OF CLASS

Zuhair Murad Un’avventura flamboyant: è l’universo di Zuhair Murad. Dove tutto è iniziato da una matita Zuhair Murad may have begun with the humble pencil, but his empire has grown into an a flamboyant adventure Eccentrico, dandy , flamboyant. Sono queste le coordinate che hanno scandito i 20 anni di moda di Zuhair Murad. “Eleganza” è invece la parola che il couturier preferisce associare al suo stile. «Non ricordo un giorno della mia vita senza una matita in mano. Ho sempre disegnato per donne decise e sensibili, donne che sappiano sperimentare l’eleganza con leggerezza. Alla base del mio processo creativo c’è il fascino per un carisma unico: la grazia femminile». Nato a Baalbek, inizia a disegnare all’età di 10 anni, prima scintilla di uno stream of consciousness che dopo gli studi liceali lo porterà a Parigi per conseguire la laurea in moda. Nel 1997 apre il suo atelier a Beirut e nel 1999 è invitato a presentare la sua collezione durante AltaRoma, dando inizio alla sua ascesa della moda mondiale. Nel 2001, Murad lancia la sua collezione “Couture”, pensando all’eleganza come un concetto senza tempo. Stilista prescelto da numerose principesse, Zuhair Murad, veste anche le star di Hollywood e della musica per il ’red carpet’ di Cannes e gli Oscar.

Eccentric, dandy, flamboyant: three words that serve to focus Zuhair Murad’s 20-year fashion career. Yet the designer himself describes his style as simple “elegance”. «I can’t remember a day in my life when I’ve not had a pencil in my hand - he explains -. I have always designed clothes for bold, sensitive women. Women who know how to experiment with elegance and lightness. At the base of my creative process is my fascination with that most elusive of qualities: feminine grace». Born in Baalbek, Lebanon, Murad began designing at the age of ten. It proved to be the first droplets of a “stream of consciousness” that would take him to Paris after his school days were over, to gain a degree in fashion. In 1997, Murad opened his studio in Beirut and two years later - in 1999 - he was invited to present his collection at AltaRoma, heralding the beginning of his ascent through the global fashion panorama. In 2001, Murad launched his “Couture” collection, which focused on elegance as a timeless concept. The favourite designer of an array of famous women, Murad also dresses Hollywood and music stars for the red carpets of Cannes and the Oscars. (a.c.)

24/02/16 17.07


FASHION ICONS 2016