Fashion, Before it Happens
Autumn 2012 • Issue 001 • £6
“Dream as if you’ll live forever. Live as if you’ll die today” - James Dean
Contributing Writers Amy Miles Kylie Nye Mel Wylie Julia Sumi Jack Wetherill Jinks Rose Sarah Frankland Katie Smith Adam Bell
Runwild Media Group 7 Heron Quay Canary Wharf London UK E14 4JB Tel: 44+ ( 0)20 7987 4320 Email: email@example.com
“Dream as if you’ll live forever. Live as if you’ll die today” - James Dean
2 |OCTOBER 2012
1 Editor H
ello, and welcome to you, Stature’s first readers.
When we first though of Stature many moons ago, we realised that there was room for a new men’s fashion magazine. A luxury magazine that delivered premium content to its city-dwelling readers; one that talked intelligently about fashion. A magazine that wasn’t just pictures, but wasn’t just text either. We realised that there was room for Stature, and now, many moons later, I look back at what we have created for you, and try to describe it. Each page has been designed with you in mind, and our editorial team have worked tirelessly to deliver the best quality content on all things fashion. Product features, Seasonal style, grooming products, Designers and Fashion gone by - it’s all covered, and all by our inhouse and freelance expert fashion writers, so you know that what you’re reading is bang on trend. So there it is; a desperately short summary of the very first issue of Stature magazine. Alas, the perils of being an Editor, and having just a short few hundred words to talk to you each issue. I look forward to talking to you more over the years, though, and as we grow, I hope you too will join us on our journey and grow with us. My colleagues hope you can see that Stature really is more than just a fashion magazine – it’s an entire lifestyle in the palms of your hands. From all of the Stature Team here in London – Welcome to the club. Enjoy,
Kilgour Established 1882
Contents October 2012
p.32 Fashion Past The Stature of Savile Row Quality, luxury, bespoke. Jack Wetherill celebrates the history of this historic fashion street.
p.36 Style Feature Top 5 on Fancy Footwear
p.14 Best Of British
Rose Jinks cover footwear for all ocassions - whether you’re hitting the town or kicking back for the night
The Holy Trinity Our writers get to grips wit three of the best designers Britain has to offer - up and coming, national treasures - we’ll be covering them all in the coming issues.
p.28 Season Style
Grooming Scent and the City
Rose Jinks cover footwear for all ocassions - whether you’re hitting the town or kicking back for the night
Winter Style Essentials From classic coats to suave scarfs, our winter fashion correspodent has you covered for all eventualities.
p.42 Season Style A/W 2013 - What to Expect
p.24 Style Feature Mr. Continental Our writers get to grips wit three of the best designers Britain has to offer - up and coming, national treasures - we’ll be covering them all in the coming issues.
Stature gives you our expert opinion on what to expect from next seasons line-up.
SCENT and the
With the new season and the winter trends just around the corner it’s time to bring your look up to date. It often takes perfumers years to develop a scent and every Eau spreads its very own unique atmosphere and embodies a whole lifestyle. Follow Stature’s guide on this season’s fragrances and be seductive and sensual one day, sophisticated and urban the other.
By Julia Sumi
Bond No. 9, Andy Warhol
The fragrance Reflection by Amouage is the embodiment of the high art of seduction. The House of Amouage are famous for their oriental-mystical bouquet and so is Reflection. Woody and floral simultaneously, it’s perfect to wear on a romantic date and the scent to go for if you plan to twist your lady around your little finger. Like every men’s fragrance by Amouage, Reflection comes in a flacon, which has the shape of Khanjar, the traditional dagger of Oman, and an embossed Jacquard pattern. De luxe.
Longing for a fragrance that spreads the scent of boho-chic and iconic artistry? Andy Warhol, launched in 2011, the latest release of the Bond No. 9 series dedicated to the artist, is an intellectual and sophisticated scent for the urban man. Perfect for cultural events and gallery strolls the predominant aroma Bergamot makes the fragrance Mad Men-esque and irresistibly classy-stylish. The bottle features a photo-booth portrait of Warhol wearing dark sunglasses and a trench coat.
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Roja, Scandal Scandal - as its name implies - is not for the faint-hearted. It’s a scent for when it’s dark outside, a party scent to dance the night away. Scandal’s peppery and aromatic bouquet is based on basil, lavender and selected spices. Sensual, teasing and sexy this complex fragrance launched in 2011 turns the night into day. The black and gold noble packaging expresses exclusiveness and the appearance reflects the content perfectly. Scandal is the first men’s fragrance by Roja and it’s a real success. The effect of the perfume is unpredictable so be careful when you apply it - or simply enjoy.
Fragonard, Mensonge Mensonge by Fragonard launched in 2005 though is the perfect me time scent. Grapefruit, ginger and green leaves make it a light, airy and particularly fresh flavour. Making you feel relaxed and cosy Mensonge is a wellbeing fragrance best worn at home after a pleasant and calming bubble bath on a freezing winter day. Elegance and softness are the main characteristics of fruity and floral Mensonge. The modern and clean packaging of the cologne and its matt silver bottle are plain and simple just as the scent itself.
Lavin, Avant-Garde Avant-Garde by Lavin is both a timeless and modern fragrance that underlines the character of the successful man of the 21st century. With its subtle flavour characterised by oriental and woody aromas it acts discreetly in the background and is perfectly suitable for a day at work. The modesty and elegance of Avant-Garde is supported by the straight and clean design of its flacon.
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Designers Fashion is about more than the clothes we wear. It’s about a person’s identity; it’s an expression of who we are - why we are the way we are, and celebrating it. It’s about communicating these ideas to the people around us, and meeting other like-minded people that wear their clothes to do the same. And sometimes, it’s about the designers that made them.Britain produces some of the finest fashion designers in the world. Best of British Designers is a regular feature giving you that chance to learn their story.
Richard Nicoll “You have to be instinctive about your ideas and what you’re feeling”
Making an impact on the world of fashion this season is London born Richard Nicoll, already been named ‘Best young designer’ at the Elle style awards at London fashion week SS09, Richard Nicoll is a name which is becoming more and more well known. Since graduating from central St Martins in 2002 Nicoll had worked alongside Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuttion and then went on to become creative director at Cerruti in Paris. With a successful fashion blog for Vogue.com and his own fashion line making us stand up and take notice his career is taking off at full speed. He was awarded three ANDAM prizes in 2008. He has also been appointed design director for Fred Perry’s premium line as well as releasing his 7th best-selling capsule collection for Topshop and this is all the past 12 months. Prior to his success in fashion design Nicoll worked in advertising as a group account director. With his latest mens wear collection Nicoll tried to create his ideal wardrobe, something he himself would want to wear. The fact he was a menswear student at Central St Martins obviously paid off as his spring 2013 collection reflects this amazing talent. Smart casual clothing is the name of the game, with a mix of clean cut whites, loose fitting smart trousers and hoodies he has catered to every mans needs in the wardrobe dept. Just when you think you have Richard Nicoll all figured out and put down as just another average designer with a signature look of shirts and smart wear he goes and throws in a splash of bright blues and show stopping patterns. The designer shows his versatility through this collection. Short listed for BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and with high profile clients such as the beautiful Kiera Knightly this young British designers career is only going to get better. So whether you want a smart yet casual look, a trendy yet sporty look or a show stopping, heads turning outfit, Richard Nicoll seems to be the man that can provide this.
By Kylie Nye 14 |OCTOBER 2012
“Your mother can provide comfort— your clothes should make you look good.”
Patrick Grant’s story is one of a man who has seemingly done everything. Born in Edinburgh, he gained a degree in material sciences at Leeds University. After several years of working in a variety of jobs in many different countries, Grant went on to attend Said Business School in Oxford where he studied for a Masters in Business Administration. Switch now to Savile Row, the tireless cutting, stitching and pressing of garments seemingly a millions miles away from business school... Savile Row boasts the largest collection of acclaimed tailors at the top of their game, and has done so for well over 100 years. Norton and Sons is certainly no exception. This bespoke tailor has called Savile Row home since the 1860’s (having been founded 1821 on the Strand). Their long standing reputation as a well respected sporting tailor speaks for itself when you look at their cliental; suiting the likes of Winston Churchill, Frank Sinatra, royal families around the world, and several US Presidents. In spite of this, back in 2005, the company had not yet been swept up in Savile Row’s new bespoke movement. Business dwindled, and other tailors on the Row were taking precedence over Norton and Sons. That was, until Patrick Grant bought the tailors after spotting an advertisement in a newspaper. Having never worked in fashion before, but spurred on by a lifelong love of clothing, selling everything he had for this was a real leap of faith... Since Grant became director in 2005, the last seven years have seen a phenomenal rise in business for Norton and Sons; cutting on average, just under 300 hundred suits per year. The company has been restored to it’s former glory. The tailors work on beautiful, classic and simple garments
Best of British
Patrick Grant for many a fine gentleman, with the utmost attention paid to fabric sourcing and perfection in details. Indeed, the tailors’ success has been so great, that Grant was able to relaunch one of the company’s formerly incorporated houses; E. Tautz, in 2009. The ready-to-wear subsidiary has seen huge success in the three short years it has been operating. In 2010, Grant won the British Fashion Award for Menswear Designer of the Year for his work at the house, and in May 2012 E. Tautz was a winner in the Fashion Forward initiative scheme, enabling the house to show at the new men’s fashion week in June. It is clear to see why when one takes a look at the brand’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection; pristinely cut suits and coats are interspersed with bright pops of beautiful colour. Fabric is key here, and from the way the garments move on the
Tautz and Norton and Sons that Grant has a real love of fine traditions - ‘fast fashion’ is not what style is about. Quality, not quantity, is his message from Savile Row. In 2012, menswear is more important now than it has been since the sixties. The first ever London mens fashion week took place in June, and finally the modern Savile Row holds appeal for all kinds of men, of all different ages. Patrick Grant has been instrumental in bringing menswear to the forefront of fashion; rebranding a failing company and relaunching another, creating two fine examples of menswear that is both sophisticated and sartorially inspiring. Grant’s belief that every man should be well-dressed has stood him in fine stead for a successful future in fashion and tailoring, as well as being an inspiration to many aspiring designers and dapper gentleman alike.
“Grant has a real love of fine traditions - ‘fast fashion’ is not what style is about”
catwalk it is clear that this collection is of the highest quality. Perfectly fitted bright shorts and lightweight trench coats give the collection a fresh edge, making it appealing to gentlemen of any age. E. Tautz has collaborated twice in the last year with shoe designers John Lobb and Harry’s of London; the latter being presented on the runway during the Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Pink and blue shoes complimented the collection perfectly, finishing it off and showing that an eye for detail is what it’s all about. Anyone can see from his work at both E.
Rumour has it that Grant could be about to launch a womenswear line for E. Tautz, that according to his girlfriend, jewelry designer Katie Hillier, who is pushing for something to wear herself. The future for Patrick Grant looks promising; he continues to direct both Norton and Sons and E. Tautz, business for the houses continues to grow, and he is sure to make an equally impressive mark at the next fashion week.
By Amy Miles OCTOBER 2012|17
Best of British “Anyone can wear any colour.The question is about finding the right shade.”
Known for his unique twist on classic British bespoke tailoring, Ozwald Boateng was born in Muswell Hill, London in 1967. His impressive career in the fashion industry began when he opened a studio on the Portobello Road in 1991, aged just 23, and he hasn’t looked back since. Going from strength to strength, Boateng went on to present his catwalk show to a global audience in Paris, 1994, and later that year opened his first store on Vigo Street, just off the legendary Savile Row, earning Boateng the reputation for bringing a new brand of bespoke tailoring to the street. This ‘Bespoke Couture’, as Boateng affectionately named it, would exemplify what the tailor is known for today: bringing art, architecture and fashion together into wearable styles worn by men of all ages around the world. The internationally acclaimed designer has won a plethora of awards for his work, including the Lifetime Achievement Award from Arise Magazine, one of Africa’s finest global style magazines, and in 2011 was awarded an Honarary Degree by the University for the Creative Arts for his contributions to fashion.
By Francesca Niedzielski
Oswald Boateng OCTOBER 2012|19
Rien n‘est trop beau.
20 |OCTOBER 2012
Rien nâ€™est trop cher.
Do you see yourself with a travel bag? Designed by Gucci, Burberry or Paul Smith? Most of all do you see yourself as the murse man?
man who’s fashion knows its limit in terms of style, shape and fabric has the right to be the bag man. His cash knows no limit but he is clever to understand the practicality of what he is undertaking/buying. Design has come along way for men and its now time for men to follow through the concept/ style that a designer has created. The era of the murse man has officially arrived.
men have body shapes as well! Don’t go for an oversized bag if it oversize’s you! Be practical it should be in proportion to your height and weight. Which leads us to our next tip, designers offer a lifestyle in the form of clothes, decide where you belong, this will only empower your look further. If your life in general is luxurious and you can afford the finer things then you can turn to designers such as Ralph Lauren, Burberry and Gucci.
“The era of the murse man has officially arrived.”
Take a long look at your wardrobe what are you missing in relation to the travel bag? This had to be the bag that is versatile, compliments your style and your personality. Fashion has its own language as does human behaviour, conveying to the opposite sex or peers what your about or what makes you tick. So here are our top tips to get you started,
Finally remain true to yourself. It may look good on the runway or the shop window but does it look
good on you!? Fashion is a huge enforcer of what you stand for, your beliefs and values don’t settle for second best! The ‘bag man’ wouldn’t take anything other then the best!
Follow the latest fashion trends according to your body shape, looks and age. Your first thought may be that the talk about shapes is a woman’s thing…
On the Market Burberry Holdall Suade Patchword Now to look at it more closely…. Look at your calendar what have you got to look forward too? Weekends away abroad or are you staying home? If your heading abroad you have the luxury to be a little bit more colourful – the jet set bag man. Everyone likes colour when they go on holiday its like an unwritten code and this seasons colour is in the form of patterns and prints so take note. If your staying close to home for most of the autumn/win-
ter the key things to look out for is what type of holiday is it touristy? Is it hiking? You can still be fashionable on top of a mountain! The bag to wear this autumn/winter is the back pack. Its back in fashion and looking as sleek as ever. Lets have a look what’s out there…
Burberry is also creating waves with the suede patchwork holdall. A real modern man/successful guy bag. This man provides a great lifestyle and stability and has a nice car, nice house and more importantly he is in need of a nice bag!! The choice of fabrics is something to compete with; velvet soft suede, leather and satin, so no wonder it has a true bag man asking price. It has some treats including the vintage details. The colours and shape of this bag are classically masculine perfect for making a statement whilst keeping you in the forefront of fashion trends.
Gucci Goldmark Jacquard Duffle
The Gucci Goldmark Jacquard Duffle bag is a classic example of current trend of patterns, print and the distressed leather look taking centre stage in accessories. It has an inside pocket and two smart phone pockets which is clearly targeted for the business bag man. With a height of 35cm it is perfect for the ‘in the rush’ bag man, to quickly pack everything in with ease. Only essentials please!!
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Burberry Cotton Canvas Backpack
If you have been following trends in men’s fashion then you certainly have seen the back pack come back!! This is another victory item from Burberry. The large cotton canvas backpack is ideal for the adventurer bag man that needs something hard wearing, durable and stylish. This man is always looking for the next fun and exciting experience, think James Bond! The back pack as all the safety features with the invisible drawcord and multiple pockets and with the choice of colours you really can coordinate with your current wardrobe. Perfect for hiking weekends away or exploring the ancient ruins of European cities. Packing for the day and the night has been made easy with this backpack.
Burberry Cotton Canvas Backpack
One of many men’s favourite designers is Paul Smith his collections are easily stated as cool and current. So this bag is made for the regular cool and current customer, always down to earth, loyal and stable, who works hard. If your not one to be flamboyant this is the bag for you from Paul Smith’s Boston collection. In a sleek grey and black colour scheme, this epitomizes masculinity with a fashion twist. The placing of the leather trimmings is unique and eye appealing. Perfect for the bag man. With two large zip compartments, shoulder straps, side compartments and interior pockets what more could we ask from a bag! Its size is a little shorter then the Gucci bag and you may have to be a little more conscious in how much you pack but if you’re a gadget bag man this is perfect for you with compartments for everything!!
All these bags are available online but be wary they might be out of stock (because there a HOT ticket), but I am a keen enforcer of primary shopping, head to the store! There is nothing like seeing the bag in real life, you can get a feel for the fabric, check all the treats the bag has in stall for you! Also taking a long look in the mirror with the bag is also encouraged how else will you know if it looks good. BE AWARE of sales consultants they will try to sell you anything! Stick to your guns about what you know will be comfortable and wearable for you.
Winter is just around the corner, and from the summer weather so far, we’re approaching that corner hard and fast. As the seasons change, your wardrobe should do the same in order to keep you up to date and bang on trend this winter. With Stature’s guide to winter style essentials, you can’t go wrong when dressing for the weather.
irst off, and probably above all else, you need a winter coat. Some will be cringing at the thought of a winter coat, but don’t worry, not all are hideous! Be sure to stay away from anything that will make you look like a mountain hiker. The perfect coat this season is something quite tailored and classic, which will also keep you warm and toasty. The Martingala Con Gilet from Loro Piana is very acceptable. The tweed cashmere coat is designed in a two-tone diagonal
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By Adam Bell weave fabric, which is right on trend for the season. It also features a black fabric lining under the collar, which, when popped, gives a new, fresh take on this classic coat.
falls mid length and is the definition of luxury, with genuine corozo buttons, and beautiful leather buckles on the waist and on the cuffs. Whatever your outfit, this is a definite must have.
If you do want something that will be a little more waterproof ,then Aquascutum is the answer. Looking at the Aquascutum Belted Aquamac Raincoat, it looks no different to any other beautifully crafted raincoat. However, the Aquamac is made using special technical fabrics to keep you extra dry. The classic trench coat cut of this garment means you will be using this for the next two decades or more. The coat
Although that winter coat will keep you warm, it’d be a good idea to invest in one or two pieces of knitwear. Printed sweaters and cardigans are big right now, but you don’t have to spend the winter months looking like Christmas’ number one fan. Simple and plain is the way to go, especially when making an investment in a piece. AMI has a stunning mustard coloured jumper available, and is an essential when it comes to giving
your bland winter wardrobe just the slightest pop of colour. This luxury piece will benefit you in unimaginable ways.
Loro Piana - Martingala Con Gilet
If you want a more interesting sweater, Wooyoungmi has the answer. The Wooyoungmi Contrast-sleeve Woolblend Sweater puts a twist on the traditional knitwear piece, and makes it more of a statement piece. Plain black wool-blend arms accompany the cable-knit rollneck body. This is definitely a must-have, however, when wearing this piece, do so skillfully and keep the rest of your outfit understated. Let this amazing piece speak for itself.
would be the scarves. They are woven from light-as-air silk to match the Italian brand’s luxurious demeanor. In all fairness, any Gucci scarf will do! Two absolute must-have pieces, however, are the Iris Print Silk Scarf, black and grey in colour with a beautiful, hand-finished print. The second is the Gucci Printed Silk Scarf, in a rich forest-green with a faded printed design, available from Mr Porter. Again, if you want to spend a little more and you like very graphic printed pieces, head straight for the Alexander McQueen. If none of these happen to be your style, any good plain cashmere scarf would be perfect for warmth and style.
“That guy who smirks and proclaims that men don’t need scarves – he’s wrong”
Aquascutum - Belted Aquamac Raincoat 30 |OCTOBER 2012
That guy who smirks and proclaims that men don’t need scarves – he’s wrong. Besides the winter coat, a man cannot go through these cold harsh days without his scarf. You can either invest in a plain neutral colour to match all of your outfits, or treat yourself to a selection of exciting colours. Which ever you decide to do, Gucci is the way to go. If angels could sew, weave and produce scarves then sell them to millions, these
Now, let’s talk about one often forgotten area – the hands. Gloves are absolutely required for your winter outings. Try and go for a leather or sheepskin pair. Think about the perfect gloves being like Ugg boots for your hands. They need to be snug, warm, and let you get the job done. Always invest in a good pair of gloves, because there’s nothing worse than unarticulated fingers and
thumbs when wearing ill-fitting gloves. Paul Smith’s Sheepskin Gloves are the way to go. They come in chocolate brown and feature a light sky blue visible stitching. The visible stitching adds a new depth and modern feel to the otherwise traditional-looking- glove. You are a Stature man. And because of this, it would only be right to assume you take great pride in your appearance. Well, why have it ruined by snow, sleet and hail? What you need is an umbrella. But not just any old umbrella, you deserve better. The Duck Handle Striped Walking Umbrella from Burberry. Need I say more? As if the name itself isn’t enough, this umbrella is a brilliant statement. It comes with a beautifully crafted, maple wooden duck head handle, hand-carved by an Italian craftsman. This piece comes in two colours: Dark Turquoise, or Chocolate. The Chocolate colour will go with just about everything. However, the Dark Turquoise is just that dash of colour your winter wardrobe needs! It is 100% polyester and is easy to care for, just wipe clean with a damp cloth.
It’s easy and beautiful, as well as being a great topic of conversation. Finally, ask yourself one question. When the day is over, does your lifestyle have to stop? The answer is, and always should be, ‘No’. The perfect pair of winter PJs are essential. They’re great for your wife, girlfriend, or partner to look at, but more importantly, they will make you feel indescribable. Available from Mr Porter, the Derek Rose Striped Cotton Pyjama set is ideal for lazy Sunday mornings with breakfast in bed, or late nights by the fire with a good old book. Although the brand isn’t as well-know and commercial as other, it has been creating its fine quality nightwear since 1926. This particular pair of pyjamas is made from cotton-poplin and features satin stripes and multiple pockets.
Wooyoungmi Contrast-sleeve Woolblend Sweater
“Try out hats, sheepskin boots and get looking for the perfect winter bag”
So, your winter essentials are sorted. But you don’t have to stop there. Try out hats, sheepskin boots and get looking for the perfect winter bag. With this guide as your base, you can’t go wrong this coming winter.
Gucci - Iris Print silk scarf OCTOBER 2012|31
By Jack Wetherill
avile Row is the home of bespoke tailoring. The Mayfair street is known worldwide for its high quality of suits and tailored items, and many great men â€“ Winston Churchill, Napoleon and Mohammed Ali to name just a few â€“ have been measured up there. The word bespoke is said to originate from the Golden Mile of Tailoring itself. Stemming from to be spoken for, the term refers to a suit specifically fit for an individual customer.
But Savile Row, or Savile Street as it was originally, and its bespoke creations were not always as iconic. The Row was created in the fall of the 17th Century by the Earl of Burlington and stands in what were the gardens of the Burlington Estate. Mrs Burlington, Dorothy Savile, was given the honour of having the street named after her. Hundreds of years later and everyone still knows her name, well her surname at least. Originally only the east side of the street was built on with the west being left as gardens. It officially became Savile Row over 100 years after its birth. Although the west side was built on afterwards, leaving those who changed the name from street to row slightly bemused. Maybe. Tailors did not appear on the street until around 1785, with the purpose of Savile Street being for
military homes. By the early 1800s, though, many more tailors had popped up.
But what is money when it comes to looking the best you can?
Mr. Henry Poole was credited as the founder of Savile Row as a tailoring area in the 1840s after he opened a second entrance to his father’s tailors at No. 32. He was of course taking someone else’s glory as there were already many tailors established there. The row has, as one would expect, changed significantly since its creation, both in terms of building and tailoring. Only eight of the original houses still stand and the number of tailors on the street has decreased over time. The rise in rent prices in the area and the rise in large chain stores may have caused the drop in the number of bespoke tailors. There are now fewer than 20 tailors in the street, yet Savile Row remains one of the finest places in the world for tailor-made suits. Georgio Armani accused the row of falling behind on times, too, which that the stores still open are even more special and should be treasured. The Poole name is still recognised on Savile Row, though no longer at No. 32. Henry Poole & Co. moved from their original house after the expired and returned to the row in 1982 to No. 15.
Dege & Skinner, No. 10, has remained a family-run business since its establishment in 1865. It is known for an expertise in military as well as civilian clothing and is by royal appointment to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, His Majesty the Sultan of Oman and His Majesty the King of Bahrain. It would be criminal to refuse anything fit for royalty.
“Savile Row remains one of the finest places in the world for tailor-made suits”
A number of other tailors have been on the street since the 19th Century. H. Huntsman & Sons at No. 11 was established in 1849. Their designs now feature firm shoulders and a sculpted waist, much like the silhouette of a riding coat. Huntsman suits are known to have the most expensive starting prices for a two-piece suit – generally over £3,000.
The merging of two separate tailoring houses saw the formation of Gieves & Hawkes, now at No. 1, in 19th Century. Whilst Gieves & Hawkes were suppliers who focused on the British Army and the Royal Navy, the merged house was the first to provide ready-to-wear clothes on Savile Row. One of the smallest outfits on the Row (only making 300 bespoke suits a year), Norton & Sons, was founded in 1821 at No. 16. Expect the “finest” from Norton & Sons, as their tailors all apprenticed on Savile Row so tradition runs through their fingers into the cloth. New faces have
emerged onto the row more recently, changing the traditions held so tightly in the past. This is, of course, a benefit to the street as now the new man who, perhaps, cares for fashion visits and takes part in the Savile Row experience. Ozwald Boateng brought his twist on the classic British tailoring style to Savile Row in 1995 and opened his flagship store at No. 30 in 2008. He is credited with attracting a younger generation to tailoring as a pioneer of the new bespoke movement. He coined the term ‘bespoke couturier’ as he sees himself as a designer as well as a tailor. In addition to the bespoke tailoring service Boateng offers, he also produces two ready-to-wear collections a year which have been shown at London Fashion Week. If black or grey aren’t your colours, and they can’t be everybody’s, then a green or blue three piece may be more to your taste. Boateng has pushed the boundaries of what Savile Row is and revitalised what we expect of a suit. The New Bespoke movement originated in the early 1990s when tailors attempted to bring a new air to the traditional styling associated with Savile Row. Boateng, along with Timothy Everest and Richard James wanted to break away from the stereotypical yet perfectly acceptable idea of Savile Row. They changed their shop fronts and used marketing and publicity to attract a younger audience. James, for example, introduced the alien idea of a Saturday opening to his store in 1992. God only knows what would happen if a Sunday opening was to happen. Core values of Savile Row were still important to these three revolutionaries of tailoring, which are customer service, fit and exclusivity. But they brought twists to the traditional suit, using contemporary silhouettes and bolder fabrics. Savile Row remains a haven for the modern man looking to add a timeless item of bespoke clothing to his wardrobe. Whether a traditional taste or a love of fashion, the famous street has an outfit to suit. Add a luxurious Savile Row finest to your wardrobe and hang it proudly beside your Armani or Ralph Lauren. The Golden Mile has long stood out as the place for tailoring, and should it continue for as long as a man needs a quality suit.
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Top ON Footwea ancy
Shoes are often described as a woman’s favourite accessory -a world filled with platforms, wedges, stilettos. But shoe designers famous for bringing glamour, opulence and individuality to the lady’s wardrobe are now bringing their talents to the world of men’s shoes. Quirky footwear is increasingly becoming a personality trait distinguisher for the modern gentleman. To illustrate the variety, and character, of this season’s shoe masterpieces, we’ve put together the top 5 of the very best in fancy footwear, so there’s never an occasion where your feet go amiss.
By Rose Jinks
At first glance, these Christian Louboutin’s may be the last thing you’d describe as ‘classic’, yet in their sophisticated shape they embody Louboutin’s signature evening wear style and would add a whole lot of quirk to a formal suit. The colour may be a little less subtle than the legendary red sole, but is striking and definitely won’t stand unnoticed. Embellishment is a common feature at Louboutin, a way to bring attitude and glamour to shoes built upon simplistic brilliance in fit and style. shoe closet. Attention to detail is the If class, elegance and a more traditionkey here. The navy of the suede, luxual style is more up your street, then rious use of python and a monkstrap look no further than Gucci’s Doyen finished with silver hardware could not Oxford’s. Made in Italy and carrying make for more a formal, yet charming the biggest-selling Italian brand’s pair of shoes. Not your ordinary black craftsmanship and design excellence, or brown Oxfords, the navy blue these suede and python navy dress is a simple way to bring colour and shoes are the classic statement of sooriginality to a prim three-piece suit. phistication. Suede is a delicate fabric, Pair with a classic black suit to keep and mixed with the python toecap, you looking ahead of the game. these would have pride place in any Soft suede fabric isn’t just suitable for eveningwear, Kurt Geiger have created turous shirt; these boots really will be the perfect style with this versatile a staple. Kurt Geiger offer shoes for material. The Caine boot is made of a niche market and pride themselves a slightly darker hue of navy than the on their strong design element that monkstraps, giving a lot more versatilicaptures the very best of what those ty to the pieces they can be worn with. customers aiming for something just a With more durability in this derby little bit different want. A classic derby boot style, a slight scuff here and there lace-up, with a little bit of colour will only add to the character of such clashing punch, these boots really are a simple, classic design. Personality can the right side of the niche market. be added to these everyday cool shoes, Jeffrey West offer the highest quality whether they’re worn with jeans and a in British shoemaking and have a polo shirt or chinos and a more advendistinctive style based upon a classic Victorian look with hints of gothic design and are perfectionists in leatherwork. These cutting-edge ‘Terence’ boots are just that - gothic glamour with a crease effect leather.
Kurt Geiger - Caine Boot
Flamboyant in nature, these boots
Christian Louboutins - Rollerboy Spikes
combine eccentric character to give this overall feel, and again, it’s attention to the smallest of detail that set these aside from any other black leather boots. The lining colour, imprint on
the sole, skull studs - they all give these boots an unrivalled personality, and more so, the wearer. Complimenting the metallic hints of the leather can be worked with tones of grey in a structured double-breasted suit to really combine prominence and status in dress. They’re not a boot for the shy; such antique features aren’t popularly used in formal dress, yet at the right occasion, where personality and a little bit of eccentricity is admired, these delicately made boots have just the give them a second glance. A British right amount of splendor – if you’re brand famous for luxurious accessonot afraid to flash your skulls. ries, you know a pair of Jimmy Choo’s If a structured boot isn’t your will never let you down when it comes preferred style for eveningwear, then to the highest of style. Although an maybe make like Hugh Hefner with eccentric pair, the dressed-up slipper a more relaxed slipper. The evening is the way to go for formal occasions, slipper is becoming a definitive way to where elegance is brought to life with wear formal shoes; a certain comfortquirky embroidery on a simplistic able elegance yet still boasting a smart suede base. Although the colours may feel. This Jimmy Choo Sloane pair be standout, they’ll only compliment is most certainly striking upon first a unique suit styling, yet this may be looking at them, and you’d definitely the only pattern you want to try. An Your shoes can be an elegant finish opulent floral design in the richest of or an extravagant embellishment colours, this precise pattern can only that captures the essence of any mean one thing; that you’re leading the outfit or occasion. These pairs are way in the fashion stakes. The shape all completely different in terms of of the shoe is a classic slipper style, a character; where some may add hints rounded feel that exudes comfort and
Jimmy Choo - Deep Purple Sloane
ease of wear. So; whatever the style you’re going for, be it a night out on the town or something a little more formal, there are plenty of quirky options out on the market for you to choose from.
of quirkiness, others are statements in their mix of features. And it may seem that they may be one-off outfit enhancers, but worked properly into your wardrobe, any of these shoes can be a modern investment in classic style and unique taste.
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What does Men’s Fashion Week have in store for us next winter? British Heritage is coming our way and by jove we’re excited.
By Katie Smith 42 |OCTOBER 2012
he end of the world is near… but let’s be optimistic and believe we will make it into 2013 and reveal another year of fashion firsts for men. 2012 introduced us all to the debut of men’s fashion week in London. Being such an exciting success, what does this mean for the year of 2013 and what does it have in store for us? Long gone have the days in which you have to battle your way through the throngs of women stood around rail after rail of women’s clothing, to finally reach your destination of the menswear stashed in the back corner under the dimmed lights. Men’s clothing has been a taboo within the fashion industry for years but 2012 has bought it into the lime light and men can finally celebrate their love of fashion without being labeled with the well-known stereotype. June this year saw the first fashion week completely devoted to men after a long awaited decision by the British Fashion Council. Prestigious designers such as Paul Smith and Christopher Kane displaying their masculine feathers as well as the shiny and new designers such as Shaun Samson exploding onto the scene with such varicosity that not even James Bond could handle. The idea that men only get excited over double F’s (food and football) is a notion that has been demolished due to the new percentage of men spending more of their hard earned cash on luxury fashion items in comparison to women. According to American Express, men are spending 24% more on luxury transactions in comparison to women but on a less regular basis. Saving the pennies to splurge on Burberry Trench Coats and Saville Row suits is the way of the man during 2012. High street is still not a big deal for the gentlemen of today’s society, maybe it’s due to the likes of Tony Stark in Iron Man and Rio Ferdinand in their sharp suits with their designer sunglasses that are making you admire their dress sense and men of today
want to emulate wealth and power with the day dream of one day becoming the millionaire with the 3 Lamborghinis and Megan Fox on your arm. The year of 2012 has been the main stage for the uprising of masculinity within the fashion industry. This is a big turn within the fashion diary. The year of 2013 will see men’s fashion week truly being introduced and transformed throughout the fashion capitals of the world. Taking and interpreting the inspiration received from the women, men will become the talking point of every year. The models will become hot topic; their eclectic styles will transform the everyday man’s view on clothing. This is the beginning of the introduction to the most stylish men in the world, so take a step back Tinie Tempah, because the ordinary man is breaking through to introduce the reality of what men’s fashion week can offer.
AW The combination of slick Britannia and British Heritage will be arriving on our runways. The patriotism within our country from 2012 is being transferred across to our 2013 style pallet. The look will be incorporating the Scottish Highlands with the London club scene. Masculine wools, twill jackets and duffle coats will all be part of every man’s essentials next year. The expected colours of the British runway will include beige’s and browns to be in sync with the colours of the British countryside.
“The year of 2013 will see men’s fashion week truly being introduced and transformed throughout the fashion capitals of the world.”
So, what is there to expect from the Autumn/ Winter collection 2013?
44 |OCTOBER 2012
The styles of next years collection is bring the masculinity back into fashion. You will be transferred back into the era of sex, drugs and rock ‘n’ roll. It’s time to welcome back the sixties with open arms with checked trousers, three button vests in tweed and zipped lumber jackets in colourful leathers. Look no further than the great Ralph Lauren to help support you through this back to the future scenario. Why not have a look at the Polo Ralph Lauren tweed vest for £345 to help you kick start into those swinging sixties.
The gentlemanly look has stuck with us as always with the hunting jackets, corduroy trousers and trench coats, giving any man a right of passage through the styling stakes. There is no other designer to look at for trench coats other than Burberry. This spectacular British designer has been making Trench coats since 1895 and you won’t find a better quality. The perfect trench for 2013 would be the Burberry London cotton twill for £995. The deep berry colour will have you looking smart and sophisticated for the whole of the winter season. We may not live in Antarctica, but the British weather does not hold back when it comes to the cold. The fabrics involved are too include dense wool fabrics, lama types and moleskin. These fabrics will keep you snug and warm as well as looking sophisticated and cool, you’ll feel like the King of Scotland in these fabrics. Why not invest in the Paul Smith Jeans knitted wool jumper for £175. The textures of the wool and the mixtures of blue and the white will have you pushing that cold back in the opposite direction.
Coloured denim is making a splash next Autumn, so as well as the understated tones of the British A/W colour pallet, why not take a risk a buy yourself a pair of red skinny jeans and have the people of Britain turning their heads for all the right reasons. Ted Baker has taken the coloured denim in exactly the right direction. The Seano slim fit coloured denim in green will help to compliment you in a smart white shirt and the Burberry trench coat.
“This A/W collections will see designers warm up the cities outfits with browns, reds and sherry’s”
The colours of the British winters are always dull and unexciting, this A/W collections will see designers warm up the cities outfits with browns, reds and sherry’s. If you feel like being a bit more adventurous in the colours you wear next winter then why not add hints of heather and sky blue to your outfit. For once British Autumn/ Winter fashion is being steered in the direction of colour. We are styling through our British heritage with our heads held high and feeling more patriotic than ever. So, as long as we make it through the end of the world. Lets raise our glasses and give a hurrah to men’s British Fashion and the exciting future it has ahead.
ach quarter, Stature brings you the latest news on all
things fashion. Whether you’re looking to find out what to expect from next season, or for some friendly advice on what new garments to invest your money in, Stature strives to show you the cutting edge of all things luxury, before they happen. All our content is written especially for you, and in the format it was intended to be read in - you won’t find any of our print articles on our website, nor vice versa, just as you’d expect. We have a dedicated team of full time staff that spend their time carefully crafting each issue. They make sure everything is as it should be, so that by the time you receive your copy of Stature, it’s much more that just a magazine - its and entire lifestyle experience.
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46 |OCTOBER 2012