To all >>Welcome that is Fairway A
provider of fresh foods, a resource for food expertise, a purveyor of an unprecedented wealth of specialty items at great values, we are proud to invite you into our world.
With quality and superb taste as our guide, Fairway Market has grown exponentially in the past few years, led by Charles Santoro, Managing Partner/Co-founder of Sterling and Chairman of Fairway, third generation owner and Vice Chairman of Development, Howie Glickberg, and Herb Ruetsch, Chief Executive Officer. Our store openings have accelerated to at least two per year in the Tri-State Area, employing over 400 workers from within local communities at each location. Throughout our rapid growth, we at Fairway have, and always will, stay true to our roots. Quality, freshness, service and value remain paramount in our day-to-day operations and will provide the foundation for our plans for the future.
MEAT Our meat department is an area where we really go the extra mile for the main purpose of giving you the opportunity to shine. We only source and put out meat that we ourselves would buy for our families. All of our meat is cut and packaged in-house by a trained Fairway team member. This ensures peak freshness of the meat, proper packaging and the approval of someone who knows what a superior cut of meat looks like. All of the meat in all Fairway Markets is USDA inspected. The team scrutinizes the meat that comes into the stores 7 days a week, 365 days a year. We offer grass-fed OBE organic beef, from a dedicated group of ranchers in Australia, it is USDA inspected organic and 100% grass-fed. Our kosher meat is cut and packaged in-house under strict rabbinical supervision. And we offer customcutting for our kosher customers. A true lover of food is going to want the best, and the best is the freshest and tastiest; It’s what we offer here. You’re getting a great value and expert service.
PRODUCE We’ve come a long way from being a fruit and vegetable one storefront on the corner, but top quality produce is still our priority. We are
rooted with values of supporting local growers, and providing the freshest and the best selection of items. Today, we are able to scale our produce operations to be the biggest per store in the industry without sacrificing any of the freshness or quality. We buy direct from the source: we buy localgrown, and we also source from all over the world and follow the growing seasons of every region we buy from to achieve this. When you choose Fairway for all your fruits and vegetables, you’ve made the right choice; the choice to have the freshest, the tastiest, the best.
SEAFOOD Our seafood department is an area where we really stand out from the rest. We only have the highest standards for selecting our seafood. We’re the first ones down at the docks every morning to pick out the best fish. We receive every fish whole and fillet it in our stores, reminiscent of the way you would get fish from an outdoor market in Europe or an old-time fish market in New York City. We offer 50-80 different species of fresh fish and seafood in each store every day, over 75% of which are wild, and your choices of the day are based on what has met our standards. If it’s frozen seafood you are after, rest assured that we have paid attention to the origin of the
product, checking the weather of where it came from and keeping up on any advisories about the area. We have a wide kosher selection available as well, offered under strict rabbinical supervision.
COFFEE We offer premises-roasted fresh coffee and a practice of using only superior beans. The journey of the coffee bean is slow, diligent and deliberate, but to achieve the high standards we have, it is a necessary journey. The number one rule: our beans are treated with respect and care. This means we stay away from mainstream commercial coffee–corner-cutters and companies that clearly put quantity over quality. We buy directly from small farms and estates that we have personal connections with, because we know they feel the same way about coffee as we do. We test and test and then test again before any bean makes it to our stores.
BAKERY As you travel through your Fairway Market, you will come across an irresistibly fabulous aroma: the smell of fresh-baked bagels, breads, and baguettes. All our baked goods are hand-crafted to perfection, each with care and skillful attention. Born from a European tradition,
our breads, bagels, and baguettes are not par-baked like so many other stores. When you toss that baguette into your basket, or wrap up those bagels, you know they come straight from a cooling rack, fresh out of the oven, baked on premises. Oh, and lest we forget, our cookies, shortbreads, pastries, and cheesecakes will delight you and our signature pies are legendary. Weíll also create the cake of your dreams for any occasion, and decorate it to the nines!
KOSHER Fairway kosher is a food loverís paradise. Weíve long been one of the tri-state metropolitan areaís ñ and, indeed, the countryís ñ largest purveyors of food that is not only kosher, but it is absolutely delicious.. Under KOF-K Kosher Supervision and the supervision of Rabbi Avrohom Marmorstein, director of Mehadrin Kashrus, Fairway offers thousands of kosher items, from meat, poultry, cheese and bakery items to coffees, teas and traditional packaged goods, and specialty products. It’s important to us that our kosher customers enjoy the best of Fairway from our hand-rolled bagels and famous fresh-made breads to, premises-roasted coffees from around the world, Murray’s all-natural veggie-fed and antibioticfree chickens, and Fairway’s beloved olive oils and vinegars, and that’s just the beginning.
ORGANICS Eating naturally, organically, healthfully, is a way of life. At Fairway, you can make great choices for your body, your family, and the environment without having to spend a fortune. Our extensive
organic and natural selections includes fruits and veggies, natural and fresh juices, organic OBE beef, chicken, and meats, nut butters, dried fruits and nuts, cheeses and cold cuts, breads and groceries, health and beauty aids, dairy (including Fairway’s own organic milk). In fact, you could say sourcing new organic products is part of our DNA!
FAIRWAY PRIVATE LABEL If Fairway Market is on the label, you are in for a treat. Everything that comes out of the Fairway kitchens and into yours is either a Fairway original recipe or a treasured “secret” family recipe from a team member (most likely unbeknownst to their family!). We nurture close relationships with our producers, from the Italian families who make our blissful balsamic vinegar, the olive growers in Mexico, Australia, France and Portugal who craft our world-renowned barrel oils, or the Lancaster family farmers who supply our organic milk and eggs. Look for Fairway on the label and taste the world. You’ll find Fairway Golden Honey, Organic Maple Syrup, Organic Jams in five flavors, chocolates produced by a small artisanal chocolate maker, every spice you can imagine, olive, artichoke and sundried tomato pastes, pasta and pizza sauces that best the best. All in one market like no other... Fairway.
SPECIALTY Here, we transform food shopping from a ho-hum chore into an exciting excursion into the new and delicious. Don’t be intimidated if you don’t speak a romance language. We hardly stand on ceremony here, nor do we make pronunciation a
requirement for enjoying these old and traditional foodstuffs. We import the best of the best, directly, from over 100 producers in Europe. We have a particular passion for our exclusives. They’re the reason weíre in the newspapers and magazines all the time, and of utmost importance to the best chefs and most passionate foodies. You will love them. From Lapalisse pure and virgin nut oils used by France’s top gastronomic chefs; to our authentic artisanal Sicilian foodstuffs; to Burgundy’s organic La Trinquelinette fruit preserves made in small batches using only unrefined raw cane sugar... we could write a novel.
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>> this is fairway
Everything you see in this magazine, you can buy at a Fairway Market.
Our growing network of 11 stores has transformed the very concept of food shopping. Each of our stores offers an experience that is only found at Fairway, and as in any family, each one has its own personality, story, and relationship to its community.
The good news is every Fairway store you, visit will delight you as you can be sure to find these signature features in them all: 1. More than 600 artisanal cheeses 2. Dozens of hot and cold dishes prepared fresh in Fairway’s kitchens 3. More than 100 varieties of olive oils, including unfiltered barrel oils imported exclusively from Italy, Spain, France, Portugal, Australia, and California 4. Coffee from all over the world roasted on premises 5. Aisles and aisles of more than 45,000 traditional, specialty, and organic groceries 6. Vast selection of gluten-free groceries and frozen foods 7. Homemade mozzarella, sushi, pasta, and sausage 8. Enormous array of smoked salmon and other smoked fish 9. Custom-cut meat and poultry, as well as hand-selected, dry-aged prime beef 10. Large selection of OU-certified kosher meat and poultry, in addition to having a Mashgiach on premises 11. Produce direct from farm to store 12. More than 70 types of olives in our appetizing section 13. Organic and natural health and beauty aids 14. Store-to-Door catering
2127 Broadway (at 74th St), New York, NY • 212 595 1888 Main Store 7:00AM – 1:00AM Daily 2nd Floor Organics: 8:00AM – 10:00PM Daily Café and Steakhouse: Sun-Thu 8:00AM - 9:30PM; Fri & Sat 8:00AM - 10:00PM
Post Road Plaza, 847 Pelham Parkway, Pelham Manor, NY 914 633 6550 Store: 8:00AM – 10:00PM Daily Café: 8:00AM – 8:00PM Daily Wines & Spirits Store: Mon - Thu 9:00AM - 9:00PM; Fri - Sat 9:00AM - 10:00PM; Sun 12:00AM - 7:00PM
1510 US 46 West, (Kohl’s Shopping Center, US 46 and Browertown Rd.), Woodland Park, NJ 973 339 5103 Store: 8:00AM – 11:00PM Daily Wines & Spirits Store: Mon - Sat 9:00AM - 10:00PM; Sun 1:00PM - 10:00PM
HARLEM 2328 12th Ave (at 130th St), New York, NY • 212 234 3883 8:00AM - 11:00PM Daily
PLAINVIEW 50 Manetto Hill Mall, Plainview, NY 516 937 5402 7:00AM - 10:00PM Daily Café: 7:00AM - 8:00PM Daily
RED HOOK 480-500 Van Brunt Street, Brooklyn, NY • 718 694 6868 Hours: 8:00AM - 10:00PM Daily Cafe: 8:00AM - 8:00PM Daily
PARAMUS 30 East Ridgewood Avenue, Paramus, New Jersey 07652 201 444 5455 8:00am - 10:00pm Daily
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STAMFORD 699 Canal Street, Stamford, CT 06902 • 203 388 9815 Store: 8:00AM - 10:00PM Daily Café: 8:00AM – 8:00PM Daily Wines & Spirits Store: Mon - Sat 9:00AM - 9:00PM; Sun 10:00AM - 5:00PM
UPPER EAST SIDE 240 East 86th Street (between 2nd and 3rd Aves), New York, NY • 212 327 2008 Store: 7:00AM – 12:00AM Daily Fairway To Go: 7:00AM – 10:00PM Daily
DOUGLASTON 242-02 61st Avenue, Douglaston, Queens, New York • 718 423 5100 Store: 7:00AM - 10:00PM Daily Café: 7:00AM – 8:00PM Daily
WESTBURY Westbury Fairway Market, 1258 Corporate Drive, Westbury (Long Island), NY • 516 247 6850 7:00AM - 11:00PM Daily
KIPS BAY Now on the horizon is the grand opening of Fairway’s next spectacular: our new store in Manhattan’s Kips Bay neighborhood!
THE CHEESE ISSUE COVER STORIES OLIVE OIL: THE BEST OF THE BARREL
MEET THE WORLD’S FINEST, SEXIEST FOOD
Steve Jenkins talks olives and why
Cheesemonger Steve Jenkins talks about
there is no ‘best’ when it comes to oil
the perfect cheese
KIDS SAY CHEESE What can you do to liven up any kid’s
SINGING THE BLUES How blue cheeses can make you happy
eating experience? Add cheese!
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LETTER FROM THE EDITORS
OLIVE OIL: THE BEST OF THE BARREL
WHAT’S IN YOUR BASKET? Good friends deserve great holiday gifts
65 PRIVATE AND EXQUISITE 17
Fairway private label products
A glimpse of Fairway’s vast selection
were born from our insatiable passion for food
KIDS SAY CHEESE
THE PERFECT CHEESE
A STORY FROM YOUR KITCHEN COUNTER
Behold, the world’s finest, sexiest food
RECIPE: Eggplant Gratin
BREAK OUT OF YOUR CHEESE RUT!
RECIPE: Grandma Sylvia’s
How to explore new cheeses
SINGING THE BLUES
CHAG SAMEACH! Cabbage Soup
84 SQUASH THE STRESS
The Master Cheesemonger’s
RECIPE: Spaghetti Squash Mac & Cheese
favorite blue cheeses
MEANT TO BE TOGETHER
TRADITIONAL SPICES FOR DIFFERENT HOLIDAYS
Cheese, wine and other matches
Spice up your holidays with tastes and
made in heaven
flavors from around the world
FAIRWAYMARKET.COM | 9
Editor-in-Chief/Creative Director Gailanne Grosso
Publisher Pat Sheils
Vice-President of Marketing Jacqueline V. Donovan
>> This edition is
Hannah Howard Mika Sneddon
and inspired by, our friend and creator of
the amazing Fairway
Contributing Artistic Director Francis X. Timoney
Between bites of bitto, Steve has achieved
multiple honors by bringing his heart, palate
and personality to the plate. He is the US’s first
master cheesemonger, world-scouring
Production & Creative Manager
artisanal production foodstuff pioneer, james
beard award-winning author, scold, mentor,
crank, self-important all-around nice guy.
ALL NATURAL. ALL REAL. No preservatives. No exceptions. The all natural hummus is here.
Join the Tribe. www.tribehummus.com ©2012 Tribe Mediterranean Foods, Inc.
10 | FLAVORS MAGAZINE
Deadline 9/8/12 Client Tribe Bleed None
TMFHUMP2016_All Natural_HP_v2.indd Personnel
Job # TMFHUMP2016
Art Director Jolene Delisle Copy Writer None Acct Mgr. Sabina Khilnani
Last Modified 9-7-2012 11:41 AM
Location ffernandez (quad core)
ffernandez/ffernandez Fonts & Placed Graphics
Family Myriad Pro
Style Bold Condensed, Condensed
FAIRWAYMARKET.COM | 11
from the editor
>> welcome! W
elcome to the third edition of our magazine! It’s the holidays and as always, Fairway is here to help you make these holidays unlike any other. We’re celebrating with CHEESE! Of course we have turkey and trimmings and all your delicious traditions in store for you as well-so read on! And find a prime spot for your copy of this magazine on the coffee table, right on top of your Lucky Peach, The Art of Eating and Bon Appetit. Let all those who pass through your living room realize you are a force to be reckoned with in the kitchen, because you shop at Fairway. You are a Fairway person. We define each other. You have to shop before you cook, and if you do one right...you do the other right. And that’s a good thing, as Martha, who hasn’t been in the Stamford Fairway for ages, says. What’s up with that, Martha? That’s OK. I saw Alec Baldwin at the Broadway store just a few days ago having coffee with some guy called Jerry Seinfeld, who was big in the ‘80s.
The Coca-Cola Company salutes Fairway Market on your 11th Location.
©2011 The Coca-Cola Company. “Coca-Cola,” “open happiness” and the Contour Bottle are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company.
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ALL’S FAIR IN LOVE AND OLIVE OIL
>> the S
best of the barrel
heer, absolute and tiresome rubbish, all this misinformation and nonsense I read on innumerable internet sites about olive oil. Truly, I despair of the worldwide stranglehold the internet has us in, such a muddle of cant and blather, and one can only imagine the mess we’re in if all of life’s other subjects are treated so poorly. Yes, this is a rant. I’ve been holding off for months, but I can’t hold it back any longer. I’ve spent the last 15 years (the last six or eight of them intensely immersed, literally and figuratively) in olive oil, in much the same manner as I have been with cheese starting in the mid-’70s. So I know of which I speak, and I mean that as arrogantly as you may choose to read me. I have forgotten more about olive oil than anybody in the business knows. Anybody: any chef, any chemist, any importer, any retailer, any academic whose jaunty hobby is food, travel, the Mediterranean and olive oil. I have forgotten more than they will ever know. And the way I can prove it is to have you come to any of the Fairway Markets and spend a few hours looking at and tasting my olive oils, and reading their signs and the labels on the bottles and tins. After a few visits, each an investment of
hours-long perusals and study, you will be able to proclaim that you yourself are more knowledgeable about olive oil than just about anybody drawing breath; certainly, anyone who chose to educate himself via the internet. That being said, the only way you would be able to ascend to my lofty level of command is to travel to each of the groves and mills that are responsible for the oils I import for Fairway. Travel to them during all seasons, not just the autumnal culmination of each grove’s raison d’etre. Walk the rows of olive trees. Palpate the tree bark and leaves, and the soil in which the trees reside and consume; breath the air in which the trees respire; turn your face up into the sun for extended contemplative periods, and talk with the farmers and the mill workers. Or, rather, listen. Talk, and then listen. Listen, listen. There is no “best” olive oil; that is a matter of taste. “A chacun son gout” – to each his own taste, as it is said among French people. A Turkish citizen will have strong emotional attachment to the olive oil from his family’s groves, and a New Zealander will feel no less adoration for his, but neither is better than the other. Nor does the price of the two oils have
any bearing on “good, better, best.” A professional such as myself may opine that the Turkish source is an oil of bitter and/or bland organoleptic sensation, and that the New Zealand source has undeniable tomato and citrus tang to it. But one cannot and should not take away from a professional’s articulation of an oil’s properties any cumulative positive or negative value. Again, “a chacun son gout.” The professional will attempt to dazzle the listener or reader with words that appear to take on objectivity, but that is rococo and filigree, smoke and mirrors. The daughter of a grove’s patron will similarly attempt to impress, to elevate her family’s oil to mythic status via hyperbole. Yet none of it means a thing, neither the clinical authority of the professional nor the poesy of the owner of the very soil of the grove. It is all just one person’s opinion, mine included. One thing I do know about olive oil that is unassailable, which cannot be said to be a product of prejudice or emotion, is that there is a lot of bad olive oil out there, and there is probably some of it in your kitchen right this moment (unless, of course, you are one of my habitual customers). There is no country that can be
FAIRWAYMARKET.COM | 19
said to produce “the best” olive oil. I have always said the same about cheese. The country in which a grove resides is vastly less cardinal than the specific region of it; or indeed the sub-region, or the sloping terraced hillside or ridgelike spine, or rock-strewn stretch of a particular neighborhood of that sub-region. More important is how the trees were tended, when the olives were harvested, which variety is the olive involved in the soonto-be-derived oil. More than one variety? Which? How were they taken from the tree? Were they shaken down and did they bounce on the ground and mix with the soil, and thereby become bruised and soiled? Or were they hand-stripped by men and women on ladders wearing hollow goat’s horns on their fingers, or modern plastic-molded goat’s horn-like claws, and were they ripe or were they underripe? Were those olives falling into basket or bucket, or were they gently bouncing on nylon nets carefully arranged and shrouded around each tree? Were they then taken immediately to the local mill where they were culled of all or most of
the branches and twigs and leaves that were stripped away with them, and were they weighed and then pressed before the olives began to get stale and ferment and change utterly from the crisp and spotted, jewel-like living nuggets they were to mushy, lifeless and soggy lumps? Were there obvious olivefly boreholes in the olives; more than one? Was there any evidence of a film-like mold upon any of them? Did anyone notice how many leaves fell into the press along with the olives? Those leaves will affect the flavor, you know; leaves contain chlorophyll and chlorophyll is not without taste, not to mention color. An oil’s viridity (greenness) can be directly related to an overabundance of leaves in the press, and still those dunderheads on the internet that profess to know something about olive oil will attest to an oil’s wonderfulness being directly related to how green it is. All of these things matter. All of these things determine the fragrances of an olive oil, if it has been created carefully, as well as the texture of an olive oil; that is, the mouth-feel, the way an oil feels
on your tongue and on the roof of your mouth and the back of your throat. The way the intensity of an olive oil attacks your palate, the taste buds on the outside edge of your tongue, and the sensory buds high in your nasal passages that fire as you exhale through your nose across the slurry that has slid down the back of your throat, and the incipient bitterness that often arises on the back of your tongue at the approach of an early-harvest oil, the glucosides of green olives making themselves known, a challenge to all but the most ardent of olive oillovers, that bitterness that thrills us like horehound, Campari, licorice, or absinthe. Finally some oils offer a frequent and cherished peppercorn sensation , of fresh-ground black and sometimes green peppercorns, so diametrically opposed to some oils’ sweetness on the finish, a finish like honey, like unsalted butter. All of these things matter, and none of them can be said to come more or less from any specific oil. Unless you believe it to be true, because then, it is there, and that oil is the one that thrills you. After all, isn’t that the point? -ƒ
Healthy Family Refreshment In Every Sip! 20 | FLAVORS MAGAZINE
>> ESSENTIAL OLIVE OILS A GLIMPSE OF FAIRWAY’S VAST SELECTION THE BEST OF THE BARREL
Fairway Unfiltered EVOO Barbera Sicilian Fairway Unfiltered EVOO Trevi-Umbria
Fairway Unfiltered Organic EVOO - Pugliese
Fairway Spanish Andalusia Baena - Super Premuim EVOO Fairway Unfiltered EVOO Australian Picual
Fairway Unfiltered EVOO Greek Koroneki
Fairway Unfiltered EVOO L’Olivie Picholine Languedoc Fairway Unfiltered EVOO Naturvie
Fairway Unfiltered EVOO Italian Riviera Taggiasca Fairway Unfiltered EVOO Cabeco das Nogueras
Fi ni sh D ing riz zl in g Sa ut é & Se ing ar in g D re ss & in M g ar s in ad es
B ut te ry &
Fairway Unfiltered EVOO Catalan Arbequina
Fairway Unfiltered Organic EVOO - Luque Early Harvest
O liv ey
• • •
Fairway Unfiltered EVOO California Fairway Unfiltered EVOO Gata-Hurdes Extremadura
R ic h
In te ns el y
Fr ag ra nt & G en tle
Ea rl A yH ss a er rv tiv es e t& Fr Lo ui ud t & y, Pe Co pp m er ple y x
Fairway has a selection of dozens of premium, delicious olive oils. From Organic to Italian to Spanish, their flavors, depths and uses vary greatly from oil to oil. So here’s a little introductory guide to some of the olive oils available at Fairway for newbies and connoisseur alike.
• • • • • • • • • • • • • •
• • • • • • • • • • • • •
FAIRWAYMARKET.COM | 21
FAMILY TEA & COFFEE MERCHANTS
Over 100 Years of Tea Experience In every cup of our tea you can taste the skill, creativity and craftsmanship of our tea blenders. We visit tea estates personally to select only the finest seasonal hand-plucked teas.
Try all our varieties today: English Breakfast | Scottish Breakfast Irish Breakfast | Green Tea with Jasmine Decaf Breakfast | Earl Grey Exclusive importers and marketers of specialty food & beverages
Phone: (800) 646-6974 | Web: www.brandsofbritain.com
Chambord Desserts is a high quality French desserts manufacturer supplying the catering and restaurant's trade. We would like to emphasize our commitment to supplying you with upscale desserts and excellent service.
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High Quality, Organic Products
Simply Organic Cinnamon Sticks are Grade AA
Simply Organic Madagascar Vanilla Beans
- AA indicates a double swirl stick with yields a higher flavor impact and greater spice potency. - Quills harvested for Grade AA cinnamon must be 1 meter long and taken from the main trunk of the tree; ensuring richness of flavor
- Source from a co-op of 1600 small farmers in Madagascar - Our hand pollinated, hand select Madagascar beans have higher vanillin content than beans harvested in Papua New Guinea or Indonesia.
Each time you buy a Simply Organic spice, seasoning or mix, you make a small contribution â€” that when combined with many others â€” provides significant support to organizations and projects that research, develop, teach and promote organic agriculture. In fact, since the Simply Organic 1% fund began in 2001, it has provided over half a million dollars of support to organic causes.
Visit our website to learn more about our recent donations WWW.FRONTIERCOOP.COM
FAIRWAYMARKET.COM | 23
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Utz Quality Foods, Inc. • 900 High Street, Hanover, PA 17331 1-800-FOR-SNAX • www.utzsnacks.com
FAIRWAYMARKET.COM | 27
Crispy.Crunchy. Perfectly Salted . All Natural Kettle Chips.
Visit www.herrs.com to see why we love what we do.
The Herr’s name and logo and “Live Life with Flavor” logo are registered trademarks of Herr Holdings Inc. and are used under license. ©2011 Herr Holdings Inc. All rights reserved.
8/24/12 8:49 AM
• The cereal the whole family will love! • Two gluten free varieties: Honey Rice and Multigrain • No artificial flavors, additives or preservatives
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YUMMY! >> KIDS SAY
hether you have a picky eater, a healthy eater, or a food critic in the making, cheese is a winner with kids of all kinds. “There are many different great ‘personalities’ when it comes to cheese, just like children!” says Hannah Netter, a Children’s Culinary Instructor. Hannah uses all kinds of cheese with the kids she teaches, proving that introducing even unusual varieties to your kids doesn’t have to be a battle. It can be easy to make it fun for your kids to try new foods. We think they might be pleasantly surprised with what they discover! Here are some fun ways from Hannah, to help you introduce different kinds of cheese to your kids. For a special breakfast, give toast a chance to show you what it’s got. Let them try toast with their favorite jam and a little bit of goat cheese. Fold it in half or add a second slice of toast to make a sandwich. Let them
spread the jam and cheese on the toast for themselves as an activity. For a festive lunch, whip up a new kind of quesadilla! Fold grilled corn cut off the cob, queso fresco and freshly diced tomatoes in a flour tortilla and heat lightly in a pan until the tortilla is slightly crisp. This’ll beat an ordinary turkey sandwich any day. For dinner, there’s no reason why mac & cheese can’t go further and help bring a helping of vegetables to your child’s growing body. Add cut-up pieces of steamed broccoli to a simple three-cheese macaroni dish. It’s a great way to sneak in something green when the homemade comfort food calls. As a snack or to make any meal a bit more festive, cut square, flat slices of cheese off a block and make them into fun shapes using cookie cutters! -ƒ
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>> KIDS’ CLASSES
INTRODUCING FAIRWAY’S “FOODIE FRIENDS” CLASS WITH HANNAH NETTER at FAIRWAY in WOODLAND PARK Parents shop with freedom, while your kids (ages 4-6 and 7-11) join Hannah for a fun-filled food class! Each kid in the class will learn how to:
· Navigate the store – what they can expect to find down different aisles · Prepare a simple fresh food dish for his/herself · Pack his/her own complete lunch for the school day · Appreciate great-tasting nutrition · Write a grocery shopping list and understand healthy quantities
The “Foodie Friends” class inspires the kids to be independent with their food choices and with small responsibilities like preparing their own simple meals. Each member of the class will also take home:
· A Fairway lunch box that they will have time to decorate during the class · A coupon for their guardians to come back and shop · The food they prepared during the class · A Fairway grocery pad and pen · Recipes to add to or start their collection · A fun recap of what they accomplished for the day
Hannah Netter has more than a decade of experience working in childcare. Her expertise and passion for food and cooking have uniquely coupled, making her an excellent and experienced Children’s Culinary Instructor. Each class will be supervised by Hannah and at least one assistant, depending on the number of students. Parents are not required to attend.
FAIRWAYMARKET.COM | 31
Local Milk is Here Discover how milk should taste Bring some home today!
TALL DARK AND
All-natural Loaded with electrolytes 30% less sugar*
*compared to leading flavored coconut waters
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8/7/12 3:59 PM
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PERFECT CHEESE BEHOLD THE WORLD’S FINEST, SEXIEST FOOD
here really is no other foodstuff as perfect as cheese, neither fruits nor vegetables, meat nor seafood, beans nor grains, breads nor pastries. Not one of these food groups comes close to cheese’s perfection in terms of its intensity and nuance of flavor and fragrance, its remarkable gamut of textures, its ambassadorial regional specificity. I love the way cheese gives such a happy, welcoming halloo to these other foods, as if a cheese is on a mission, a stalwart fellow traveler perfectly content to ride alone but
evermore ebullient with company. I also love the way cheese always acts as the mediator between often quarrelsome tablemates, the whiny wine too young to be out this late, the bitter olive or almond, the tarted-up and shameless piece of fruit that seems to know everything about everybody and is not shy about pointing the finger. Cheese is low-maintenance. I value that it requires little more than one’s knife and a sturdy surface. Nor is it so balefully evanescent like fruit and flesh. It
will be there when you need it. No other foodstuff beckons in so sensuous a way either. Who can forget the voluptuous texture of Vacherin Mont d’Or? But cheese as an elegant and traditional coda to haute-cuisine? As you wish. For me, I prefer it down-and-dirty. My philosophy of selecting cheese is a simple matter, whether the cheese this philosophy is to be applied is for my own personal enjoyment or that of customers here at Fairway. (continued on page 20)
CHEVROT Perhaps our most absolutely perfectly aged, perfectly toothsome, perfectly nutty, delicious French chevre. From Poitou-Charente.
TOMME DE SAVOIE Made from skimmed milk—after the cream has been used for butter, or richer cheeses. The result is a musky and satisfying wonder. The cheese is semi-soft, with a dusty, tough rind. Rustic, earthy, and reminiscent of the caves in which it is aged.
MANCHEGO A classic for good reason. Made with 100% Manchega sheep in the craggy, arid region of central Spain known as La Mancha. Sharp, with flavors of toasty nuts and caramel. Grate in soups, sauces, pasta; or nibble with a big glass of Rioja.
COMTE Made from the unpasteurized milk of Montbéliarde cows high in the Jura Mountains, for centuries. They graze on abundant pastures, and in the summer the cheese takes on floral notes. Big, smooth, and righteous. Hints of hazelnuts, toffee, and ripe fruit.
GOUDA Sweet, salty, creamy, beefy—the Dutch import massive qualities of this beloved cheese. Enjoy with a crusty loaf of good bread and a very cold beer.
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The simplicity of this matter is borne out by the questions I ask. Is the cheese made more by a person, or more by a machine? Cheese tools are one thing. Even the most hands-on cheese recipe requires vats, hoses, rakes, colanders and thermometers. But if the cheese is a product of mass-production, a Henry Fordlike assembly line where very soon the few humans involved will be replaced by incorporeal robotic arms, then the cheese has been made by a machine, in which case I say, “No, thanks!” Mass-production factory cheese is anathema to a memorable cheese experience. There is no character, no rusticity, no individuality to a factory cheese. Does the cheese taste good, look good, and does it give itself up nobly to the knife? I will forever be in awe of the fact that cheese is one of the few things in this life that runs roughshod over the old saw, “You can’t judge a book by its cover,” Angie fairway mag ad final.pdf
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because with cheese, I don’t even need to taste it to know whether it’s good or not. If I behold a cheese that looks like it just stepped out of a limousine, rather than a truck, a cheese wearing a three-piece suit, rather than flannel and corduroy, a cheese sporting a label that is in some garish primary color within a logo crafted by committee, a cheese whose exterior is as flawless and glossy as the promise that its interior will be flabby and slabby, I say I will not select this cheese. It is not worthy of me. If, on the other hand, the exterior of the cheese I behold is in some shade of an earth-tone, from bone white, to beige, to khaki, to strawcolored, through the russet-reds, rawhides and chocolatey browns, and sports a toad skin or a pebbly surface, or a deer antler’s velvet, a surface that begs to be stroked, or is cloaked in gray gingham, or is stippled or tattooed over every square inch with its name 8/21/12 9:23 AM
and provenance, or is dusted or cobwebbed with some beneficent mold, or whose exterior, like that of fermier Saint-Nectaire, like some expressionist painting or Hubble telescopic photo of a distant galaxy, reflects the colors white, yellow, red, green and black, of five distinct and identifiable strains of wild yeasts, each a healthy, flavorproducing substance, I then know the cheese is going to taste good. Heaven knows it looks good. As for that business about which knife to use, don’t worry about it; any will cut just fine. With regard to my favorite cheese, I remain noncommittal. I’ve always found myself baffled by the question, exactly as I am when asked my favorite color, or which of my children I love the most. I’d have to say my favorite cheese is often the one presently before me.
This is excerpted from Steve Jenkins’ The Food Life
SPICE UP THE COLDER MONTHS
WITH WORLDLY RECIPES BY SABRA.
Stay toasty with Sabra’s warm and delicious Puff Pancake with Guacamole recipe. Find it, along with our whole collection of delectable recipes, at Sabra.com.
WITH G NCAKE
8/27/12 5:33 PM
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ALL FLORIDA. NEVER IMPORTED. WHO ELSE CAN SAY THAT? FloridasNatural.com/
WE ENCOMPASS ALL THAT IS QUALITY AND CARE ABOUT A FAMILY BUSINESS something we know a little about, too. Fowler Farms is a local grower from Wolcott, NY and several time winner of the New York State Grand Champion packing award from our State Department of Agriculture.
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CELEBRATING THE ART OF BAKING SINCE 1983 We are your local baker! We use New York State organically grown wheat in every loaf.
BOICEVILLE [ WOODSTOCK [ RHINEBECK
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Switzerlandâ€™s number one selling preserves. Delicious, all-natural, containing 52% fruit. The unique packaging and great taste of Favorit preserves are an unbeatable combination. Be sure to try Favorit Apricot Preserves for your â€œfavoriteâ€? baked Brie recipe!
The best classic or flavored premium chocolate-covered marzipan bars and loaves. Niederegger does not add any extra sugar to their raw marzipan mixture, and is proud of their 70% almond to 30% sugar ratio. Taste the difference!
Gourmet Nectars, made of 30% handpicked fruit from the fertile Nile Valley. Pureed whole fruit (not just juice), never frozen, never from concentrate. Makes a great smoothie, ice pop or even a cocktail!
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>> Break Out
Of Your Cheese Rut!
EXPLORE NEW CHEESES TO SHAKE THINGS UP
e know that, like us, you’re constantly in pursuit of mind-blowing cheeses. New cheeses, old cheeses, anything billowing with flavor and funk. Nothing wrong with having stand-bys--butterscotch-y aged gouda, truffle-y camembert, a tart, bright chevre--these things always fit the bill, induce swooning, make company happy and perhaps jealous. But change is good! Here are some cheeses that will rock your world and shake up your cheese routine—
IF YOU LOVE GRUYERE: L’Etivaz A raw cow’s milk, 5-to-13-months-aged mountain cheese from the Vaud canton of Switzerland. It is named for the tiny hamlet near the pastures of its origin. L’Etivaz has to be one of the very most intensely delicious cheeses we’ve had in our lives. It was created only 30 years ago by 76 Gruyere-producing families who felt Swiss Gruyere was losing its rusticity, so they pulled out of the Swiss government’s consortium in order to make the cheese the way they felt it should be made. Serve it with rustic bread at any juncture – with whiskeyon the rocks or other stiff cocktails, fruity
red wines, alongside the salad course, for dessert with fresh fruit, as a snack with crackers, to accompany that extraordinary bottle of wine that has been burning a hole in the pleasure bank of your mind as well as in the wood where it has been laying in your wine shelf. You know you’ve got to drink that bottle sooner or later; here’s your excuse: a drop-dead cheese that’s worthy of a big, big red. L’Etivaz will obliterate the heftiest white wine.
IF YOU LOVE PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO: Sbrinz Of Celtic origin, it’s thought to be named for the village Brienz in the Berne Canton of Central Switzerland, where there are a lot of place names where the S is followed by a b, and that falls to the old dialect known as Romansch. The cheese Sbrinz is massive, massively thick, and hard. It has a gorgeous thick rind the color of amber or butterscotch, as is the interior. The fragrance of the interior is almost like warm caramel, and as a chanterelle is apricot-colored; this grand cheese tastes as much like butterscotch as it looks. Grate your Sbrinz for pasta. Shred it for gratins. Chisel off shards to accompany all manner of food and beverage.
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IF YOU LOVE CHEVRE: QUESO CLARA A deeee-light. A mitzvah. Serendipity! Dumb luck to have fallen across it. A raw, firm, yet tender handmade RAW goat’s milk cheese, legal (90 days aged), rustic, primitive, shouldn’t exist at all, but one of those cheeses you taste in Europe that makes you say to yourself ‘why can’t we have this cheese at our counters?’ Well, we do. And it’s Queso Clara, made by a young couple not far from Salamanca in Leon. It has that superb flavor that only comes from raw milk, a sensation on the palate that sends you off into a reverie of being a long way from the United States of Boring Cheeses. Serve it with all manner of accompaniment.
IF YOU LOVE BRIE: If you have never had the good fortune to sit before a triangle of Brie de Meaux made by Robert Rouzaire, well, now’s the time. It will have been made from the richest, tastiest milk of the year, and that milk and that famous cheese will actually have come from the Brie region, Seine-et-Marne, just east of Paris. Not many Americans can say they have tasted REAL Brie. Real Brie is among the single-most complex amalgams of savory flavors of any foodstuff ever created by man or divine intervention.
IF YOU LOVE MANCHEGO: FIANCEE DES PYRENEES Yes, these disks of sheep’s milk cheese are decidedly ‘affianced,’ betrothed, the promise of and to the gorgeous Pyrenean pastures whence they come. Like those swooping, impossibly gorgeous pastures, they are primitive, timeless, rustic and abundant in all they represent – several thousand years of another marriage, a ‘ménage a six’ – soil, plants, sheep, air, sunlight and Pyrenean shepherds and cheesemakers, each disk a powerhouse of complex flavor and nearcustardy texture. Each should be served and consumed on one’s knees, hat doffed, accompaniments ordained for quality – crusty breads, charcuterie, seasonal fruits, olives and raw vegetables.
IF YOU LOVE GOOD EUROPEAN BUTTER: Fairway, you know, is BUTTER CENTRAL. Among the sterling brand selection we offer in the dairy of imported and American butters, the Fairway Cheese Department is offering name-controlled French butter (PoitouCharentes) as well as the scintillating Beurre de Chevre, which is butter made from goat’s milk cream. You butter-lovers can only imagine the joy this Deux-Sevres butter brings from near Poitou and Cognac, France. This is butter that makes you feel like you never really tasted butter. And to slather goat’s milk butter across a tranche of hot baguette is to enter a world of fat and happy.
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Weâ€™re making it easy, fun and rewarding to incorporate organic living into your life -one step every day.
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Singing the Blues
>> THE MASTER CHEESEMONGER’S FAVORITE BLUES
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hilly weather, shorter days, bulky sweaters inducing the blues? We’ve got a solution-match blue with blue Perhaps the most magical substance in the entire realm of gastronomy, BLUE CHEESE, is sure to chee you way up. MOLD is something that occurs to bread or cheese or some other living, breathing substance that has overstayed its welcome on this earth. BLUE CHEESE is cheese that has been purposely allowed to share its very body with human-introduced organisms that have hue, substance, olfactory, and ultimately, flavor. Bread mold is yucky. It won’t hurt you, but it isn’t doing you or the bread any good. Cheese “blueing” is miraculous, an alchemy. The mold your retina perceives as “blue” may actually be green. Or black. Or purple. In fact, the Italians refer to it as “erborinato,” which means “parsley-green.” They perceive the cheese mold as GREEN. It’s the French who perceive cheese mold as “bleu.” Here are our favorite blue cheeses, and while I love many, many others, let’s just not mince words and get all rare and esoteric. Sometimes the bandwagon is the best place to be.
THE MASTER CHEESEMONGER’S FAVORITE BLUES STILTON. With this cheese, quality can vary, which is why picking the right brand IS important, such as Long Clawson or Tuxford & Tebbutt. Stilton is England’s only nameprotected cheese, made mainly in Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire, an area of rolling hills and valleys. To be called Stilton means that the cheese was produced in a certain area, using the milk from that area, as well as the recipe and aging guidelines set by the Stilton Cheese Makers’ Association. There’s simply no denying Stilton’s rightful place (as lofty as can be) in the annals of civilization and gastronomy. GORGONZOLA. Either of the two varieties – DOLCE, that is, young, creamy, oozing, glistening Gorgonzola, which is why it’s also known as sweet or creamy gorgonzola; or STAGIONATO – also referred to as aged or mountain gorgonzola, as the cheese has been cave-aged to a firmer, bluer, more piquant stage of its life on earth. Indeed, it is often marketed as Gorgonzola Piccante.
ROGUE CREAMERY SMOKEY BLUE. Rogue River Blue cheese is made at the Rogue Creamery in Rogue River, Oregon, by my friend Cary Bryant. This is a raw cow’s milk blue that weighs about a pound, and it is aged in Oregon pinot noir grapevine leaves that have been macerated in local pear brandy. It has won every award it can be given, it has been literally the first artisanal American blue cheese ever exported to Europe, and it may be the most expensive and delicious cheese I will ever taste. In fact, it’s SO expensive, we don’t offer it. Instead, we offer instead Cary’s Rogue Creamery Smokey Blue, a raw cow’s milk blue cheese that has been smoked with Oregon hazelnut shells. Sounds weird? Did to me, too. But I tasted it, and my knees buckled, it tasted so fine. And it’s about half the price of the Rogue River Blue. ROQUEFORT. This intenselyflavored, sheep’s-milk cheese stands as the single most amazing humanity-driven food tale of all time. It’s one of the oldest known cheeses with ancient roots, and it’s created using special mold, namely “Penicillium roqueforti,” that grows on rye bread specifically baked for this purpose. This mold creates not only the color, but the distinctive taste and fragrance that alter the effect of that cheese entirely.
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Experience the ultimate
CHOCOLATE DELIGHT Since 1845, Lindt’s Master Chocolatiers have offered passion and meticulous craftsmanship to create the finest chocolate. Inspired by secret recipes, Lindt’s Master Chocolatiers have created two chocolate masterpieces; LINDOR and EXCELLENCE. Experience the irresisistibly smooth melting center of LINDOR and the most refined chocolate pleasure from EXCELLENCE. www.lindt.com
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Meant To Be Together
>> CHEESE + WINE + OTHER
MATCHES MADE IN HEAVEN
>> Brunet and Rocal Beets
This fluffy, silky soft-ripened goat’s milk cheese from the little Piedmontese village of Bosia is luscious as whipped cream, oozy, perfect. Our Rocal beets are crimson beauties, steamed and vacuumed packed in France and all ready to go. Their earthy, deep, candy sweetness makes a spot-on foil for tangy Brunet. Suggested wine: Chateau du Trignon, Roussanne, Cotes du Rhone, France In a word... delicious, juicy, floral and creamy white with a wonderfully pleasing mango and honeysuckle nose. Ok, maybe a few words then.
>> Holland Gushofer ZiegenkÄse and Fairway Sesame Brittle
This cheese tastes like candy, and candy makes a wonderful companion. Fairway’s Sesame Brittle’s got a touch of honey which plays upon Gushofer Ziegenkase’s sweet goodness. Gushofer Ziegenkase is crystally, butterscotchy, hazelnutty—we’re talking layers upon layers upon layers of flavor. Suggested wine: Elena Walch, Lagrein, Alto Adige, Italy Grown almost exclusively in the Alto Adige in northern Italy, this cousin of Pinot Noir is the perfect companion for a cheese with a sweet tooth! Rich red berry fruit and saddle leather dominate the palate.
>> Rogue River Smokey Blue
and Tamworth Country Cured Bacon
Oregon cheese innovators smoke their award-winning blue over local hazelnut shells for 16 hours. The result is a firm, not-too-blue blue, with a smoldering, fireplace-y depth. Tamworth heritage breed hogs from Missouri make crazy good bacon; it’s dry cured, so needs no cooking. The porky lush bacon and the smoky cheese are rapturous bedfellows. Suggested wine: Tilia, Bonarda, Mendoza, Argentina Bursting from the glass with gobs of raspberry jam and rich currant, this spicy Argentine is a real crowd pleaser!
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We Make it Natural. You Make it Fun.
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What’s In Your Basket? >> 7 Holiday gifts (THAT ARE
good friends to cheese!)
or a seriously great gift, you’ll need to hit all the great gift notes. It’s got to be beautiful and beautifully packaged, super high quality, enormously tasty, and something worth talking about. Bonus points if it’s incredible served alongside your favorite cheeses. Here are some of the gifts we’ll be proudly giving.
Biscuiterie Latour Waffles These ethereal flaky/buttery/crispy sugar waffles will transport you to the 19th century North of France, where a family known for their light-as-air yet richly decadent gaufres started to sell their closely guarded recipe. Fast forward to now. The waffles are still lovingly made in small batches in Givet, France, from only simple, rustic, and pure ingredients: brown sugar, butter, eggs and flour. How we serve it For dessert, next to the most decadent triple crème we can get our hands on.
These are stunning, straightforward concoctions made in small batches by cooking fresh fruit and unrefined cane sugar with a little vanilla or almond extract. That’s it. Simplicity means there’s no way to hide imperfection. No mysterious chemicals and thickeners to create gloppy solidity — La Trinquelinette is gloriously loose and drippy. No sweeteners or flavorings to cover up less than stellar fruit. La Trinquelinette is made from organic apricots, rhubarb, berries, and citrus in the height of their ripe, sweet, dazzling perfection. From Burgundy, La Trinquelinette is often found on tables of Parisian cafes. How we serve it Cherry Trinquelinette and sheep’s milk Moliterno from Sardinia are a match made in heaven; so is Queso Clara, a funky goat’s milk cheese from Spain, and the rhubarb jam.
Belberry is a small Belgian outfit, born in the late 19th century in the tiny, idyllic West Flemish town of Kortrijk. The wife of Kortrijk’s pharmacist was a marmalade genius, famous for her unparalleled jams. She passed down her recipes and talents, and now it’s her grandson Thierry Vandererfven, who runs what’s grown into a little jam empire. Still made in small batches, in open kettles, and with the purest of pure ingredients, the fabulous stuff comes straight from Belgium to Fairway Market. How we serve it Belberry apricot and cumin delice and a piece of raw-milk morbier cheese; Belberry blueberry preserve with fresh chevre.
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Andre Laurent Sauerkraut
Sauerkraut is having its moment in the sun. It’s the condiment of now, popping up on menus galore in the trendiest spots. But nothing is new, and sauerkraut — cured shredded cabbage — is an ancient, wonderful food. Only the most special of sauerkrauts is worthy of this legacy, and Andre Laurent’s sauerkraut certainly fits that distinction. Since 1906, the Laurent family has been growing their own cabbages in Blignicourt, in the heart of France’s Champagne region, and lovingly aging, curing and seasoning the cabbage to reach great sauerkraut heights. Sauerkraut from Champagne is infinitely more refined, sweet, and delicious than its American counterpart. This is the luxury vehicle of sauerkrauts. How we serve it Just as is, on a bowl, right on our cheese plate. Or in a grilled cheese sandwich on rye bread.
Saba (or ‘vincotto’, or ‘mosto cotto’) was handed down from medieval times in Central Italy, Emilia Romagna. It was the original sweetener used by the masses who had neither access to, nor means to acquire, cane sugar. Saba comes about via the long, slow-cooking of the liquid accrued from re-pressing the detritus from crushed wine grapes. The result is a deep, dark, thickish, intensely sweet substance billowing with character and depth. Swoon-inducing. How we serve it Atop Parmigiano-Reggiano, or pecorino toscano, or black truffle-studded moliterno.
The breathtaking town of Banyuls-sur-Mer sits on the coast of the Mediterranean, on the scenic slopes of the Catalan Pyrenees, near the French-Spanish border. On ancient vines grow plump, juicy grapes, from which Banyuls, the famous fortified vins doux (sweet wine) gets lovingly made. The storied vines also yield one of the world’s finest vinegars: Le Vinaigre de Banyuls. Aged in huge oak “foudres” (barrels), Banyuls is sweet, nuanced, with a distinct toasty nuttiness, and notes of vanilla, licorice, gingerbread, and plum. How we serve it Drizzled over oozy burrata or Fairway’s made-fresh-every-day mozz.
Moutarde de Pommery de Meaux (or Pommery Mustard from Meaux, France) is wonderfully rustic whole-grain mustard, the very best mustard in all the world. It’s the final say on mustard. Moutarde de Pommery’s recipe dates to 1632. Brillat-Savarin, the Father of French cuisine, declared this the true mustard of gourmets. “If it isn’t Meaux, it isn’t mustard,” he insisted. We’re apt to agree. Plus, the crock is too cool. How we serve it How we serve it: With spicy blue cheese, or sharp cheddar, or alpine cheeses like gruyere.
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>> Fairway to far away
ow you can share the world of Fairway with your whole world, whether they are far or near. Every occasion can be celebrated the Fairway way: weddings, birthdays, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, graduation, the holidays... or just a darn good day! Any time is the perfect time for our meticulously chosen, highest quality, exquisitely delicious, beautifully presented gift baskets. full of direct import olive oils, exotic spices, premises roasted coffee, crowd-delighting condiments, cookies and sweets? And its all at the tips of your fingers. Fairway by mail. SEND!!!
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Superior Quality & Unsurpassed Customer Service... A Promise Weâ€™ve kept Since 1957
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Goodness Grown Naturally
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Private and Exquisite >> new fairway
FAIRWAY LABEL PRODUCTS WERE BORN FROM OUR INSATIABLE PASSION FOR FOOD
ike so many things that truly make Fairway Fairway, our private label offering started simply because we love food. We didn’t do it because everyone else was doing it, or for all the standard reasons. While we wanted to continue and deepen our commitment to offer our customers the best values possible, we didn’t even consider the option of compromising the quality of the products that we put our name on. If Fairway
market is going to be the label, then it has to be the best of the best. Period. We’re crazy excited about our exquisite new vinegars and mustards, which we have created and had made for us in Italy and France. Your salads are going to thrill you. Every day from now on, you will count down the hours until you can make yet another meal of salad. These are direct imports, exclusive to us!
TRADITIONAL WHITE BALSAMIC OF MODENA
This is not that sickly-sweet and acidic clear stuff that purports to be “white” balsamic; that stuff was never authentic balsamic vinegar to begin with. We have created the real deal, a real traditional-recipe balsamic that has had the color removed the old-fashioned way, by filtering the balsamic through organic material. The flavor of this stuff is moving. You will be moved. You will be profoundly and irretrievably bound to create a sauce/ vinaigrette for your salad that involves crushed garlic, a teaspoon of Dijon mustard and a copious quantity of your favorite olive oil.
Yes, the fizzy red wine from Emilia Romagna that has lately enjoyed a tremendous risorgimento (resurgence) is THE summer wine, but what you didn’t know is that Fairway has developed and finally received THE LAMBRUSCO VINEGAR made from lambrusco wine. It tastes like homemade peach ice cream, like those paraffin lips you loved when you were a kid, like bubble gum, like those cherry suckers with the loop from A&P. Combine this vinegar with a hallowed Fairway un-filtered barrel olive oil, and really nothing else, and you have a sauce, a vinaigrette, a mitzvah for your salad that will bring you to your knees.
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SABA Also from Emilia Romagna and also referred to by some as “vincotto” – ‘cooked wine’ – actually, cooked wine must, the detritus left after grapes have been crushed and pressed to relieve them of their juice. When you cook grape must (‘mosto’), you derive a dark, thickish, smoky-sweet and complex liquid that is haunting, mystifying, exciting and ancient. We love to marinate things in it. Scallops, fish fillets, pork cuts, and lamb
FRENCH DIJON MUSTARD AND GRAINY MUSTARD Plenty of fine Dijon mustard around town, but none of it is priced so well, and none of it is made in small batches expressly and exclusively for your Fairway. Ours certainly is: Terrific quality, powerful mustard, incredibly low price, and there’s even a stoneware crock for you filled with the brilliant grainy Dijon. You can use this crocks like we pros use them – for your kitchen tools: Your whisks, your big spoons, your wooden spoons and strainers.
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and beef. We love to de-glaze pans with it, pans that just sautéed things, like foie gras, or scallops, or chicken thighs or Brussels sprouts. Our saba is not just lifealtering and mind-bending, it’s the best saba in town, and it is exclusively ours. After all, it was your Fairway that pioneered saba ten or so years ago, and got the credit we deserved from The New York Times.
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We’re Serious about Sushi
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A Story From Your Kitchen Counter
>> A little help with easy, everyday recipes.
e’ve been through a lot, you and I. Remember your first attempt at a swanky dinner party ending with you having to Magic Erase a mysterious sauce off of me? I don’t judge. But we’ve got to talk about something, and I think you know what it is. I saw the look on your face when you opened that posh paperless invitation to Susan’s annual holiday party. It was the same look you had when you realized you forgot to take the giblet bag out of the turkey before cooking it last year. She wants the guests to bring homemade dishes to the party, doesn’t she? We all know you can put yourself together like a movie star when you’re up to it and be the life of the party – I would expect nothing less from my “counterpart” of course – but when it comes to offering
a satisfactory savory holiday dish for a party of your peers… well, it looks like we have to call in re-enforcements, babe. The other day when you left your laptop on my surface, I took the liberty of browsing the Fairway Market website for help. I’ve been seeing you come home with bags and bags of delicious smelling, fresh foods for a while now, so why you haven’t thought to turn to them for cooking tips yet, I don’t know? I found a side dish that looks very simple to prepare, probably won’t cause any fire alarms at least, and includes one of our favorite cheeses: Gruyere. I’m thinking you should try this one out – you’ll be able to make a decent quantity for not a lot of money, you can get fresh ingredients from Fairway (you’re going there anyway), it will be delicious for all, and it’s kind of unique. Suggested side dish? Eggplant Gratin.
>> EGGPLANT GRATIN
INGREDIENTS (serves 10) · · · · · · · ·
5 Smalls Spanish Onion 10 cups Fairway Olive Oil 1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons Fairway Olive Oil 5 Larges Eggplant, sliced into 1/2 inch rounds 1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons Herbs de Provencce 10 cups Fairway Tomato Sauce 2 1/2 cups Shredded Gruyere Salt & pepper, to taste
DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Over medium heat, sauté onion in EVOO until golden brown, about five minutes, stirring frequently. Remove onion and set aside. Add remaining olive oil to pan, and increase heat to medium-high. Fry eggplant in olive oil for 2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown, with care not to overcrowd the pan—fry in batches if space does not permit. Remove from oil and drain thoroughly in a colander. Place in a bowl with sautéed onions, salt, pepper, and herbs de Provence. Add tomato sauce and mix. Layer eggplant mixture in oven-safe dish. Sprinkle with gruyere. Bake at 350 degrees for 15 minutes or until hot and bubbling. Serve, preferably with good, crusty bread.
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>> OUR HERITAGE by Lori Levy
HAG SAMEACH! Meaning Happy Holidays! May your holiday foods connect you with those nearest and dearest gathered around your table, as well as with thoughts of those who brought these flavors to life in years past. We celebrate and we remember. This is our heritage. It is not about the food itself, but rather the sense of “connectedness” it brings. Don’t you find it truly amazing how even the thought of a certain dish has the power to take you home take you back to your childhood, to your family, to your heritage --all the way back to your roots? For me, that dish is Cabbage Soup. The aroma of a steaming pot of Cabbage Soup brings me right back to my childhood. Few scents elicit such a visceral response in me. This sweet, yet pungent scent elicits a feeling of warmth in me that takes me right back to the special Jewish holiday meals of my life with those I hold dear in my heart. The original recipe is attributed to my maternal great- grandmother, Leah Levine, for whom I was named. My Grandma Sylvia improved upon the original and then my mom Pam, aka “Grandmama,” continued the tradition but upped the ante as her Cabbage Soup has taken this classic to an entirely new gastronomic threshold. No one ever left my house without plastic to-go
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containers filled to the brim with my mother’s famous soup. In fact, orders were placed well in advance of every holiday! As with all great works of culinary genius, a taste tester must be appointed. Many applied, but only one was chosen--this was, and remains, my father’s favorite job. The sweet and sour has to reach that perfect sublime balance of lip-smacking perfection which is quite subjective, so the pressure on the taster is indeed great.
From my family to yours, best wishes for the happiest of holidays. May it be filled with the beautiful traditions and flavors of our heritage.
>> GRANDMA SYLVIA’S CABBAGE SOUP
AS UPDATED BY “GRANDMAMA” PAM LEVY
INGREDIENTS (serves 10) · 6 strips of Flanken · Beef Bones for Stock · 2 large cans of Sacramento Tomato Juice
· 1 Medium size head of cabbage · 1 box of Dark Brown Sugar
· Handful of Sour Salts · Pepper
DIRECTIONS Shread cabbage and onions in a food processor with a medium blade. Place onions and cabbage in a stock pot with the flanken and the beef bones. Pour in Sacramento tomato juice and cook over medium heat for 2 – 3 hours. Reduce to a simmer so soup does not boil; cook slowly as not to burn. Gradually add the brown sugar and sour salt and pepper to taste. The taster must be relied upon for balance of sweet and sour. Soup should be thick with an iridescent glow at the surface. Like brisket, this dish tastes better a day or two after cooking so plan ahead!
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Squash the stress
ooks everywhere know squash is a blank canvas of nutrition, brimming with potential of delicious sweet and savory dishes. As the colder seasons arrive, it’s time to think of something hardy. It’s time for some real roasting, dicing and slicing – time for gourds as big as your face. For some of us, it took a bit of convincing when we were plated spaghetti squash next to our chicken and our mothers told us that it was delicious; it’s just like pasta but better for us. Others, supposedly, embraced the deep yellow vegetable as something new and interesting with
no questions asked. However your introduction took place, it’s no secret now that squash is a classic fall delight that brings needed nutrition, such as vitamin A, potassium, and beta carotene, to your diet and is low in calories. Now that we’re more mature, we know better and eat better. So how about taking this classic fall crop and combining it with a classic comfort food to join forces in the ultimate family-friendly, homemade and healthy dish – a dish, perhaps, to help squash the stress of holiday-time dinner planning:
>> Spaghetti Squash Mac & Cheese.
We find that the best way to serve up this “recipe” is to leave plenty of room for your own taste.
DIRECTIONS The dish calls for 1 spaghetti squash, 1 tablespoon of butter, 1 tablespoon of flour and 1 cup of skim milk. This mixture will help thicken the cheese into a sauce. Add in 1/3 cup of shredded cheeses of your choice – make a nice blend perhaps or stick with a favorite. Crack pepper and pinch salt to taste in the cheese mixture. Cut the squash in half and bake the halves face down at 375F for about 25 minutes. Remove the seeds and then strand the squash with a fork by scraping the flesh out of the rind. Pour the thickened cheese mixture on top of the spaghetti squash strands and top off the dish with a colorful garnish such as basil and/or halved cherry tomatoes. Season as desired.
Take home award-winning California cheeses to delight your family and guests. Melodie: Delicate, semi-soft goat milk cheese with a white rind. Melodie is graceful & inviting on any cheese plate. Pair with apples, almonds and Sauvignon Blanc or Champagne. Fresh Log: Classic fresh goat cheese with tangy, clean flavor and a creamy smoothness that makes every recipe perfect. Spread on toast or grilled cheese, add to scrambled eggs or pasta sauces.
Breakfast Cheese: Young and bright, perfect for brunch or every day with toast & jam.
Triple CrĂ¨me Brie, Camembert and Schloss: Lush and buttery, complex and creamy , handmade in Marin County with authentic European cultures and fresh Jersey cow milk. The ultimate party cheeses! Pair with fruitforward white or light red wines or Champagne.
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Spices For Different Holidays
all and winter holidays are rife with tradition, ranging from family members offering kindly-worded passiveaggressive “compliments” to the annual family photo in the back yard that’s shared with distant relatives and friends. So many things herald the return of the holidays, like the family delicacies that we pine for year-round (and the foods we have to grit our teeth and power through, rather than insult the cook). Does it have to be the same every year? Spice things up a bit! Fairway has a collection of spices, organic and non-organic, so vast that you’d need an entire section of your pantry devoted to all of them. So how about taking advantage of them this holiday?
· Spice it up in the Spanish tradition by using Paprika, Cayenne pepper, or saffron. · Mix it up Mexican style by using Cumin, Chili powder, or Oregano. · Let it love you in the Italian way with Coriander, Basil, Rosemary, or Sage. · Choose the Chinese tradition with Ginger, Anise, or Szechuan peppercorn. The varieties are endless and with a quick search on the web or on our recipes page at FairwayMarket.com/recipes, your holiday will be one to remember – and not because it was a fiasco.
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Flavors of Fairway Fall 2012 Magazine