issue 2 winter 2010
h o r a c e m a n n
student artists showcase interviews galore galore interviews architecture interior design the meat packing district!
winter makeup art HM street style the SIXTIES!
How many times have you seen, “New Year, New You,” “Fresh Start for the New Year,” or some other phrase of positive reinforcement plastered across a magazine’s December/ January cover? Many people’s New Year resolutions include hitting the gym more often, getting more sleep, stopping procrastinating, and the list goes on. To some, these play out nicely…for a month. Meanwhile, these resolutions are merely fantasies for many. While you will not find “Be Better for 2010” written on FAD’s cover, we still greatly endorse the realm of fantasy, our focus topic for FAD’s sophomore issue. What do you make of the women who, during World War II, literally drew lines running up the backs of their legs? They were indulging themselves in makebelieve pantyhose – nylon was being conserved for the war effort. And what to think of Alber Elbaz, the brilliant (and self-declared overweight) designer behind Lanvin, whose major inspiration is the fantastical, unattainable nature of rail-thin models? His own fantasies about body image have led to his wonderful creations. Creativity is the flow between mind and hand, and fantasy is a world that exists in our heads. Fantasy inevitably becomes a creative outlet. In the issue, we’ll explore surrealist architecture, outrageous interior design, and we’ll even see some artistic fantasies of our fellow students. So here’s a hats off to daydreaming, creativity and fantasy!
alice (11) + zoe (11)
we made f.a.d. hallam (11)
photo by Jenny Lim(11)
letter from the editors
staff jasmine (11)
Faculty Advisor: Alicia Hines
a note on our e-version: Students’ surnames have been omitted from captions beneath student photos. Only first names and grade level are noted.
what’s in the issue 06 08 10 12
the meatpacking district
by Ariane Hannah Busse Lee and Anna Carrol
it’s so surreal by JUSTIN BURRIS
we talk to
by RACHEL SCHEINFELD and ZOE KESTAN
viktor and rolf
by RACHEL HOLLANDER
JENNIFER CARTER FLEISS OF RTR
we talk to BETSY MULLINIX of 17
by NICOLE DALESSANDRO
knotweyour talkstyle to
Horace students ANDREA LIEBERMAN weMann talk to display OF hand-knit accesA.L.C. sories
street style @ HM too cool for school knot your style by JENNY LIM
Horaceby Mann students RACHEL displaySCHEINFELD hand-knit acces-
an your artist’s knot style
knot your style
more to read
Horacestatement Mann students Horace Mann students by DAPHNE TARANTO display hand-knit accesdisplay hand-knit accessories sories
mad about the 60’s its about what’s on by EMMA SPECTER the inside
by DAPHNE TARANTO
Zach, Alex, Harrison Hallam, and Dan give us their GUISE OPINION
knot your style perfect ‘10
Horace Mann KESTAN students by ZOE display hand-knit accessories
WHO WORE IT BETTER?
DIY: TAPE BOW by BILLIE KANFER
by NOAH MARGULIS
we talk to DANNY ROBERTS OF IGOR AND ANDRE
trend around the bend by MAGICA DARABUNDIT
knot knotyour yourstyle style
Horace Mann students Horace Mann students display hand-knit accesdisplay hand-knit accessories sories
knot etch your a sketch style Horace Mann students by JASMINE MARIANO
display hand-knit accessories
DIY: SKINNIES by MAGICA DARABUNDIT
Last issue, FAD made some mistakes.
-Continued thanks to Kim Do and the art department for help with photoshoots, use of equipment, and their never-ending support.
Following the FAD spirit, this issue’s cover was a collaboration. Originally Baci Weiler (10) drew us a black & white sketch. Next, Daphne Taranto (11) used Photoshop to color in Baci’s sketch. Next, we found interviewee Danny Roberts’ (p. 18) sketch that Zoe Kestan (11) used to meld all the pieces together on Photoshop.
eye candy culture watch
Look out for these this month to get your culture fill. Sister Sister
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/ 3893/25136maolsen0908064122303l ozu9.jpg
DOUBLE TROUBLE LEFT: Three looks from the Olsens’ new line, Olsenboye, sold at JC Penny. RIGHT: Mary-Kate, left, and Ashley, right.
The Olsens have done it again! They just released a new line, Olsenboye, adding up to a total of three, in addition to Elizabeth + James and The Row. The new line is aimed toward juniors and is, believe it or not, sold at JCPenney stores. The first collection is aimed toward the more urban teen and definitely has the NYC twist we have all become familiar with. The goal is to have each collection highlight styles from a different city. We have seen them transform their empire for tweens into that of younger adults, and now back to our own
generation. The new line includes shoes, handbags, denim, t-shirts and hoodies. The Olsens have transformed themselves into “mogulistas.” They are powerful young entrepreneurs that have started their own brand to complement the one thing that will always keep them together, fashion. They now stand beside Isaac Mizrahi, Anna Sui, Charlotte Ronson and, even more recently, Jimmy Choo to provide great fashion at more affordable prices. Stay tuned because the Olsen twins are just getting started! -GINA
According to the Random by Hamish Bowles and Alexandra House site about this new cof- Kotur) displays beautiful largefee table book, “[t]his one-of-a- scale images, either staged or kind book of 300 photographs candid, of glamorous events and of some of the most celebrated happenings, that represent Vogue actors, artists, models, First La- magazine itself. Captured by fadies, and social figures draws mous photographers and storytold on stories that have appeared by well-known writers, “The World in the pages of Vogue over the in Vogue” is “a stunning look at past four decades, as well as portraits, houses, gardens, and photographs from those stories parties of celebrated figures from that have never been pubmany worlds.” On sale starting lished.” “The World in Vogue: November 2009 for $75 at full retail People, Parties, Places” (edited price. -DAPHNE TARANTO (11)
for more information see stormking. org and diabeacon.org
FREAK OF NATURE TOP: Maya Lin’s “Wave Field” (2009). At Storm King. BOTTOM: Louise Bourgeois’s Spider, 1997. At the Dia:Beacon.
OUT OF CONTROL LEFT: Looks from Opening Ceremony’s Where the Wild Things Are collection.
If there is an Art History or Sculpture trip to see these museums, I highly recommend it! Located along the Hudson River about an hour outside Manhattan and a quite short walk from the Beacon Metro North stop, the Dia:Beacon museum features artists such as Richard Serra, Louise Bourgeois (pictured below), Donald Judd, Andy Warhol, Gerhard Richter and many others. Most of the works are either avant-garde sculptures or installations, creating a special experience when in the presence of the art that is unattainable in a catalogue or image. Storm King Art Center, open seasonally (reopening in April 2010), “is a museum that celebrates the relationship between sculpture and nature,” its website says. “Five hundred acres of landscaped lawns, fields and woodlands provide the site for postwar sculptures by internationally renowned artists.” Don’t miss this fantastical sculpture experience that really plays with nature – especially Maya Lin’s “Wave Field,” pictured. Because of the elements’ natural effects on the pieces, no two visits here will ever be alike. -DAPHNE TARANTO (11)
Seize the DIA:Beacon; and Brain STORM King
AS SEEN ON TV BOTTOM: Maya “Spectrum” (1998) by Richard Phillips. TOP: This painting is a common sight in the van der Woodsens’ living room staircase. Blake Lively, aka Serena, poses with the painting. Two of Richard Phillips’ paintings, familiar from their appearances as props for Gossip Girl sets, are now available as canvas reproductions at Intermix for $250 a pop. All proceeds from this “Prop Art” series go to benefit the Art Production Fund, a “non profit organization dedicated to helping artists realize difficult-to-produce works, reaching new audiences and expanding public participation and understanding of contemporary art,” according to its website. Phillips blends fashion, illustration, and art by oftentimes painting models or fashion-inspired images. He used makeup as the palette for a digitally altered painting when he collaborated with M.A.C. cosmetics earlier this year. In an interview for The New York Times “The Moment” blog this past July, he was asked why he thinks the fashion world responds so well to his work. Phillips responded that “[f] ashion is not separate from art. It is inextricably woven into how we open ourselves to the world and articulates the exchanges of power both real and imagined.” -DAPHNE TARANTO (11) for more information see artproductionfund.org and intermixonline.com.
Where the Wild things Are, Maurice Sendak’s classic children’s book that equally enchanted both children and grown-ups for many generations has not only become a huge hit in the big screen, directed by Spike Jonze, but also has inspired many clothing lines, such as Opening Ceremony and even Urban Outfitters, to play with the inner child everyone has within. Max, a child with a very imaginative mind, decides to create his own fantasy world; a forest inhabited by a group of ferocious wild creatures that has inspired Opening Ceremony to create a line based on faux fur pieces; a range of women’s and men’s coats, vests and fur dresses which recreates the vision of Max’s crew of wild friends such as Bull, Douglas and Carol. These warm fuzzy pieces give an air of comfort and protection, reaffirming the book’s theme that in the end there is no place like home. Not only we should worship Opening Ceremony for allowing us to have this new line of “Wild” clothes in our closet but also Urban Outfitters has added a wild touch of fantasy prints in many of the t-shirts and leggings. There has been an eruption of not only easily wearable clothes but with the movie coming a few days before Halloween, many fans of the story decided to wear the limited edition one piece wolfsuit (also created by Opening Ceremony) for the wild night of trick and treating. For the bolder ones, Christian Joy, the designer behind Yeah Yeah Yeah’s music video outfits, decided to create a variety of costumes based as well on Max’s wolfsuit but with a slight touch of rock n’ roll. To top it off, Pamela Love created a few jewelry pieces made of silver and brass that give a feeling containing both a tough wild shape with a child’s innocent vision of the world. Where the Wild things are, a children’s story that gives inspiration to even grown-ups. Now go set free of your own imagination and let the wild rumpus start! -REBECCA NEIDERBERGER (10)
a few hours in..
the meatpacking district
By Ariane Hannah Busse-Lee (9) and Anna Carroll (9)
* take this with you when you head downtown!
how do we get there? by subway:
Take the A, C, E, or L train to 14th Street. Exit near the intersection of 14th Street and 8th Avenue. Walk south, and turn right onto West 13th Street. Then, turn left onto Gansevoort Street. Take the 1, 2, or 3 train to 14th Street (different station). Exit near the intersection of West 12th Street and 7th Avenue. Walk west, and turn right onto Greenwich Avenue. Turn left onto Horatio Street, and then turn right onto Greenwich Street. Walk north towards Gansevoort Street.
1. Destination 32-36 Little West 12th Street 212.727.2031 Destination, a Japanese chain store, sells colorful and quirky clothes such as hairy gloves and laced jeans. In the back of the store furniture painted with bright abstract creatures rests under hanging ceiling ornaments.
3. Jean Shop 435 West 14th Street 212.366.5326 2. Earnest Sewn 821 Washington Street As the name suggests, the jean shop sells an 212.242.3414 Decorated with wood, array of jeans as well as leather jackets and old furniture, and belts. The store is taxidermy, Earnest easily missed from the Sewn is rocking the rustic look. Menâ€™s and outside, marked only by a glowing neon pig womenâ€™s jeans are piled on every table in outline. Custom made jeans are sold here. the store.
5. Stella McCartney 4. Tory Burch 38-40 Little West 12th 429 West 14th Street 212.255.1556 Street Inside the sleek white 212.929.0125 The store sells clothes Stella McCartney store hang sophisticated and shoes featuring dresses. Thigh high the famous double T metal toed boots can emblem. Browse the be found in the back of small store, adorned the store, behind the with green carpet, slate-like curtain. purple furniture, and silver and gold walls, Gansevoort Street to 34th for cardigans and Street, near 10th Avenue boots. Stairs at Gansevoort St, 14th
the high line!
St, 16th St, 18th St, and 20th St Elevator entrance at 16th St
Once an abandoned elevated train track, the High Line was converted to a sustainable park, opening to the public in June. The aged structure was erected in 1934, but fell to disuse after 1980. It spans the Meatpacking district and Chelsea, originating at Gansevoort Street and ending at 34th Street. The architect-designed park combines the gritty feel of old industrialized New York with modern design. The surface of the High Line is similar to a boardwalk, covered with gray planks. Patches of flowers and greenery are interspersed along the sides of the walkway, and brown wooden benches rise smoothly up from the ground. Currently, the High Line is open to the public from Gansevoort Street to 20th Street. The second section of the High Line, from 20th Street to 30th Street, is scheduled to open in 2010.
6. Alexander McQueen 417 West 14th Street 212.645.1797 Alexander McQueen sells the designer’s trademark girly tough designs. Go there for bold color combinations, skulls, British flags, towering platform heels, and jewel encrusted clutches. 7. Moschino 401 West 14th Street 212.243.8600 Moschino’s white, silver, and red décor complements its feminine clothes. A heart motif is visible in the year old New York flagship—hearts are on the doors, floors, and chandeliers. Find chic attire in black and red for men and women.
6 14 5 3 12 10 7 11
19 15 13
8. Yigal Azrouël 408 West 14th Street 212.929.7525 The namesake brand of an Israeli designer, Yigal Azrouël sells edgy party dresses and cool leather jackets. An eye-catching jacket was completely covered with shiny studs.
9. hpgrp 32-36 Little West 12th Street 212.727.2031 This little gallery is connected to Destination (see above). The art is as eccentric as the clothes. The single room space contains strange sculptures of animal heads and a few paintings. 10. Heller Gallery 420 West 14th Street 212.414.5959 Heller Gallery’s spacious setup showcases contemporary art,with a focuson glass. Enjoy the colorful vases and paintings. In the back room there is what appears to be small jellyfish encased in resin.
13. Pastis 9 9th Avenue 212.929.4844 Pastis serves traditional French bistro fare. Visit the always crowded restaurant for salads, sandwiches, and entrees like steak frites with béarnaise and omelette aux fines herbes with French fries.
CHECK IT A map of the Meatpacking District- check out the locations of all of our notable stops in the area!
11. The Standard Grill 848 Washington Street 212.645.4100 Located in the Standard Hotel, the Standard Grill is decorated in dark wood, white, and copper. There is seating at the open kitchen in the back of the restaurant, where you can watch the chefs grill meat. Don’t miss the floor tiled entirely with pennies.
12.Son Cubano 405 West 14th Street 212.366.1640 Inspired by 1950s Havana, Son Cubano serves Cuban specialties, such as fricase de pollo.
14. Abe and Arthur’s 409 West 14th Street 646.289.3930 Abe and Arthur’s is more about the crowded, party atmosphere than the expensive food, but it’s the place to go if you want to spot a celebrity.
15. STK 26 Little West 12th Street 646.624.2444 From the outside STK looks like a warehouse, but inside reflective black walls shine, giving it a glamorous atmosphere. The menu consists of steaks, salads, seafood, macaroni and cheese, shrimp rice krispies, and more.
16. Spice Market 403 West 13th Street 212.675.2322 Spice Market serves Southeast Asian street food in a setting of over the top Moroccan style décor, complete with blue and red arches, and cutout wood chairs.
TOP SHOP From Left: The Highline, Destination, Moschino, Jean Shop, and Pastis. All Located in the Meatpacking District.
BOOK s é m r e h g n i v M a r R c O W
When lacking money, why not sell a Hermés scarf? Well, this is exactly what Michael Tonello did in his biography, “Bringing Home the Birkin.” Throughout this page-turner, you can delve into the fascinating career that Tonello created for himself after moving to Barcelona, Spain. When his job in Spain fell through, he needed to figure out a way to make a living while in this foreign country. After selling one scarf on eBay and seeing the immediate positive response to Hermés items, Tonello realized that there was something about Hermés products that was very intriguing. As he began to venture to each Hermés store in Europe, Tonello started to compile a large collection of Hermés items and selling them on eBay for quite a profit. However, Tonello quickly realized that it was one bag that most fashionistas were after; the Birkin. Although many people can be on waiting lists for this famous bags for years, he developed a method allowing him to buy a myriad of bags, which quickly sold to wealthy and celebrity clientele. This story about Tenello’s “ Hot Pursuit of the World’s Most Coveted Handbag,” shows how a simple love of fashion and art can take you so far in life. This book could be read in no time. It is just so captivating you can’t put it down! It is definitely a must read! - RACHEL SCHEINFELD
HOT STUFF Here in Brown Alligator, this is just one of many versions of the Herme’s Birkin Bag.
You’ve seen Simon Doonan. Either as a guest judge on America’s Next Top Model, as an interviewee on one of VH1’s riEditor Zoe with Simon diculous specials, Doonan at Fashion’s or just every now Night Out at Barneys and then on your taxi’s little New York. TV screen, you’ve seen him one way or another. In his book, Eccentric Glamour, Doonan takes his time to speak to you. Through multiple chapters, he narrates memorable moments of his life where the definition of true style had stood out the most. He explains a time when the Avon lady would come to his house and sell his mother lipstick, or a time when he would try out aerobics classes in LA in the 80’s; however, he ties this series of memoirs together with a simple message: be original, different, and define yourself! Doonan also throws in a variety of interviews with people he finds have incredibly eccentric style (think Dita Von Teese, Tilda Swinton, Mickey Boardman...). All in his crazy, wacky, and fantastically British accent, Doonan does an incredible job explaining the methods of great style. Even if you aren’t down in the dumps about your own dressing habits, pick up this book for a non-stop laugh! -ZOE (11)
GREEN IS THE NEW BLACK by Haley Marber
Environmentally friendly and animal friendly trends have moved their way into every realm of fashion. Using organic fibers like hemp, durable natural fiber than renews its soil after every growth and other recycled substances, fashion designers have been able to design everything from coats to shoes with the environment in mind. Organic materials are grown with no chemicals or substances harmful to the environment. And it’s not just the fashion world getting in on this popular trend; the United States government developed a substance now known as EcoFi, a synthetic fabric that can be made from recycled plastic bottles. This can prevent four hundred thousand tons of dangerous gasses from being released into our world each year. Last year’s tote bag craze still continues, as more and more brands put out recycled or organic totes or a reusable fabric alternative to plastic bags. The same is true for t-shirts and other merchandise preaching ‘do as I say, not as I do’ that are covered with messages, piece signs, recycling symbols, and more. Although most of these aren’t manufactured in an environmentally conscious way, they spread awareness to the worthy cause of helping the environment. This environmental trend has spread all the way to the Netherlands, where McGregor has collaborated with Dutch company Green.2 to make a
stylish, eco-friendly, organic winter line that still lives up to the high quality of fashionable, preppy McGregor apparel, but all the fabrics are grown in a way that is not harmful to our environment. Designer Stella McCartney also has created a beautiful collection of completely organic and vegetarian clothing to support her vegetarianism. This line uses no leather or furs and incorporates ecofriendly fabrics. Many celebrities have responded to this environmental trend as well as designers. Actress Natalie Portman has designed a line of completely vegan footwear for Te Casan, which line uses no animal byproducts or products. Environmental trend has swept the globe, reaching every part of the world, from Europe to Asia to the United States, from stores to websites to environmental research, so we can stop global warming while still looking great.
what’s the skinny? by Hallam
SKINNY JEANS D.I.Y. ON P. 43
Since the dawn of Rock N’ Roll in the 1950’s slim fitting denim pants have been tied to almost every important cultural movement from rockabilly to noise-punk. Invariably referred to by a number of different names (drainpipes, stove pipes, cigarette jeans, and nut-huggers, to name a few) skinny jeans are singularly American. In the 1950’s when the Sun Records country sound rocketed Carl Perkins, Elvis Presley, and Johnny Cash into national recognition, they were clad in high waisted drainpipes.
What was the one thing that Gene Autry, Bret Michaels and Thurston Moore had in common? Their love for the right pair of fitted denim pants. Skinny Jeans have silently become America’s most endearing fashion symbol. It is easy to write such a statement off as the work of some twisted Levi’s advertisement, but that is only because, for better or worse, Levi’s has successfully inherited the skinny jean cult. The American love affair with skinny jeans has been represented wholly in the cultural underground. This aspect of the skinny trend is the most interesting. Skinny Jeans have survived every cultural revolution since they became popular in the
1950’s. When, in the late 1970’s, punk bands began to “kill their idols” they changed their hairstyles and their shoes, but, for the most part, their pants stayed the same. Tight denim is the first sign of a rebel, a cultural misfit. Stovepipes are the most important fashion trend of the last six decades because they have been involved in every counterculture within those six decades. It may seem implausible, but think about it. Who doesn’t own a pair of skinny jeans?
SLIM JIM Right: Hallam in his own skinnies.
GO GREEN above left: shoes from Portman’s collection for Te Casan. above right: two looks from Stella McCartney’s Fall 2009 collection including an all-PVC (rather than leather) motorcycle jacket. runway photos courtesy of style. com
fashion fad special: the sixties
mad about the 60s
Popular television show Mad Men is proof positive that the 60s are back by Emma Specter (11)
TOP DOWN 60s style, laid back in the convertible.
One of the greatest fashion advantages of growing up in the new millenium is the immense pool of fashion inspiration available to our generation’s style-minded young people. Our decade’s style can’t be summed up in one concise adjective- it is a hodgepodge of everything that came before it, with some notable alterations and modifications. Preservations of twentieth-century decade fashion are displayed throughout contemporary popular culture in a variety of ways, from an upcoming Met photography exhibit of popular 1920s-era models like Louise Brooks and Clara Bow to American Apparel’s (slightly) updated revival of 1980s neon disco style. Most 20th-century decades’ styles are, to some degree, exhibited in current media and culture, but none more so than the 1960s. Our fascination with that decade’s aesthetic can most obviously be attributed to the popularity of the AMC show “Mad Men.” Even if you don’t watch “Mad Men,” chances are you’ve seen it- its distinctive ad campaigns jump out from the pages of Us Weekly and wallpaper the subways (coincidentally, the show itself centers around an advertising agency). The show, currently in its third season, spans from 1960-1963 and is known for its high level of attention to detail when it comes to costume; everything the characters wear in every scene of every episode is in keeping with early-60s style. The show’s fashions (created and arranged almost entirely by costume designer Janie Bryant) started attraction attention from the first episode. This buzz has built with each season and reached new heights after this month’s Vanity Fair displayed a spread of
Jon Hamm and January Jones, two of the show’s stars, dressed in couture re-imaginations of their on-camera looks. Mad Men style became more accessible to the general public through the show’s collaboration with Banana Republic this summer. The retail store offered a collection of 1960s items. Like the costumes worn on the show, the Banana Republic pieces were not all of a type; different types of dresses from the early sixties were made available. There is a common misconception that an era can only contain one type or style of clothing; this is certainly not true of our decade, and it’s not true of the 1960s. This becomes clear after watching a single episode of “Mad Men”- the three female leads’ sartorial choices all belong to the same general group, but they are chosen to match the women’s individual personalities and appearances. Joan, the flirtatious office secretary, dresses in tight, monochromatic dresses and skirts accessorized by quirky gold jewelry. Betty, the beautiful and troubled wife of the show’s unfaithful protagonist Don Draper, favors full-skirted, patterned housedresses suited to
her life as a domestic suburban housewife. Peggy begins the show as a youthful, naïve secretary clad in innocent schoolgirl-style dresses (in fact, the more worldly Joan even advises her at one point to “stop dressing like a little girl” if she wants to be taken seriously at work). As her career at the advertising agency takes off, Peggy’s wardrobe becomes more mature; she begins to don tailored, Jackie Kennedy-esque skirt suits and simple, clean-cut dresses. Because “Mad Men” largely takes place in an office during the first three years of the 1960s, later trends commonly associated with that decade (Mary Quant-inspired minskirts and Courreges-inspired space-age fashion, for example) are not represented. Maybe, as the show continues, it will begin to represent the changing styles of the times; as of now, it sticks to extensively highlighting every aspect of early-sixties fashion. “Mad Men’s” comprehensive depiction of 1960s fashion has put down roots in our popular culture, paving the way for a renewed interest in the styles and tastes of the early sixties.
f.a.d. magazine issue 2
ready to tear fashion One little known product of the 60’s: paper fashion by Emma Garcia (9) The 1960s featured men landing on the
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.we-make-money-notart.com/wow/00anixxxxon.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.we-make-money-notart.com/archives/wearable/&usg=__XLA9PVz1RjIwZpJBBnVBWHEQDXE= &h=288&w=425&sz=48&hl=en&start=14&tbnid=CgXB9ida2l439M:&tbnh=8 5&tbnw=126&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsouper%2Bdress%26gbv%3D2%26h l%3Den%26sa%3DG
drawing by Samantha Michel (11)
moon, the rise of feminism, and timeless fashion statements. I’m not referring to clothing made by high end designers, such as Dolce and Gabanna or Chanel, but instead to designs easily available to the public. Everyday clothing became the product of a legendary marriage: that of Pop Art and fashion. The result was Pop Design. Perhaps the most recognizable piece of Pop Design was Andy Warhol’s ‘The Souper Dress,’ an A line paper dress with Campbell’s soup cans printed on it. This dress was used as an advertising tool by the Campbell’s Soup, Co. It was created while paper dresses were the latest craze. Paper dresses were first created in 1966 by the Scott Paper Company as a marketing idea that blossomed into the new fad. They were cheap, carefree, and disposable. To the amazement of the Scott Paper, Co., they sold 500,000 Paper Capers (the first paper dress). Soon afterwards, many other companies, like Pillsbury, also adopted the paper dress for advertising purposes. Paper clothing boutiques began to emerge as well. A paper dress habitually cost about $1. Washing these dresses wasn’t suggested (because they’re paper)! They had a guarantee of 1-2 outings, but were worn as many as 12. Anyone could tailor it to their liking: no sewing required, just scissors. And if you grew tired of it, you could just throw it away. Contrary to what you may think, paper dresses were not made out of printing paper, tissues, or any other average substance. They were composed of a soft, 3-ply paper made of cellulose and cotton. The resulting material was much like a dry baby wipe that wasn’t easily torn. Finally, the dress was dipped in rayon scrim to provide temporary fire resistance. The excitement generated over the paper dress was enormous, inspiring designers to begin working on paper slippers, bikinis, and many other products. But as all trends do, paper clothing began to lose popularity and was eventually abandoned. Despite their practicality, they were flammable. Their fire resistance provided only temporary protection, and the products were deemed hazardous a few years later.
The dress to the left was used to stimulate support for Nixon’s campaign for president. The dress on the right is the Souper Dress. ALL RIPPED UP
This dress was created and designed by Jolie Paon. It’s a recent design made of the pages of a phone book.
Sources: http://news.google.com/newspapers?id=3jYaAAAAIBAJ&sjid=8hAE AAAAIBAJ&pg=7276,5946112&dq=the+history+of+the+paper+dres s&hl=en http://www.vintageconnection.net/PaperDresses.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1960s
it’s about what’s on the inside
INSIDE JOB below and right: a few views of the Japanese restaurant, Zenkichi
Noah Margulis (9) proves interior design should be taken seriously. Interior design is often thought of as just picking out stylish furniture for homes. This however is not the case. The interior design of a space can set the mood for how any person feels in the space. Great and fantastical interior design is not always hard to come by; it can often be found in New York City restaurants. A restaurant will not win the public’s vote solely by having good food. An atmosphere can change our opinion completely. One of the most impressive restaurant designs is that of Zenkichi, a modern Japanese restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Zenkichi’s façade is covered with wood planks and no noticeable signs. But upon entering you are greeted by delicious smells and a bit of a mysterious feel. Flanking the pathway are bamboo sticks that lean in every which way. The only light to guide you to your table comes from behind the bamboo. A few large rocks are placed near the bamboo to complete the feel of a bamboo forest. As you walk to the tables, the bamboo starts to disappear. Instead you walk along a pathway, still lit only from the sides. Alongside the path are two trenches filled with polished rocks, and tiny light bulbs that illuminate only the floor. On either side of you are booths that are a step up from the pathway. Each booth has a bamboo screen that is lowered as you are seated. Each enclosed and dim booth creates a feeling of serenity, and allows you to focus solely on you meal and
not on the hustle and bustle of waiters or the neighboring diners’ conversation. The restaurant as a whole does not have any sort of focal point. Each booth is exactly the same, and the lighting and materials are kept consistent throughout the restaurant. In all, the restaurant’s interior greatly influences how you enjoy your meal. Second to Zenkichi in my book is another Asian restaurant coming from the South of the Continent, Spice Market. Located in the Meat packing District of Manhattan on the West Side, Spice Market provides delicious and flavorful food from India and the surrounding countries. The exterior of Spice Market is a typical meat packing district building style with a large awning and big windows. When you enter this fantastic restaurant you are transported into a carved wood Asian-styled wonderland. With unpolished hardwood floors and a wooden bar and wooden structure,the restaurant greets you with a rustic feel. The restaurant is warm, cozy, and homey. To the left of the hostess’ stand (all unpolished wood, of course) is a grand stairwell that descends down to the rest of the restaurant and the bathrooms. On the landing of the staircase is an onion-dome covered structure with purple curtains. This structure is a change the mood from the rustic upstairs to the colorful modern downstairs. The downstairs eating area still retains the rustic feel but brings in new colors and more metal surfaces than upstairs. Throughout the restaurant, the staircase structure acts as a focal point; it is carved beautifully and is flanked by two extremely long hanging lanterns that attach to ceiling of the upstairs and almost touch the floor of the downstairs. The hardwood and cozy feel of the restaurant allows you to sit in your chair and relax and feel like you’re at home. An interior design determine how you feel, an in the case of restaurants how you enjoy your meal. A space can be mysterious or cozy, but either way it can still be a great interior design.
f.a.d. magazine issue 2
by Justin Burris (11)
it’s soSurrealist architecture surreal
Einstein Tower Erich Mendelson 1920
Surrealist art is simply the visual manifestation of our mind’s inner workingsor at least that’s what André Breton would want you to believe. Inspired by Freud’s monumental advances in psychoanalysis, Breton set out to examine man’s tendency to express his subconscious through art and codified his ideas in the Surrealist Manifesto. This landmark work prompted a whole generation of Dada artists to embrace the surrealist style, and suddenly artworks that explore the boundaries between the subconscious and the conscious minds sprung up everywhere. However, critics and art historians have traditionally associated the movement only with painters, sculptors, and photographers. One field of art remains Experience Muconspicuously unmentioned by critics as a sic Project canvas for surrealist thought- architecture. Frank Gehry Very few people recognize that surrealist architecture even exists; the famous sur2000 realist painter Salvador Dalí even named a painting “Surrealist Architecture” because it Las Pozas showed a physically impossible form, in a statement that claims that the pragmatic naEdward James ture of architecture cannot possibly convey 1949-1984 the mind’s complexities. Despite this oversight, surrealist architecture certainly exists. In isolated instances, non-sequitors, absurd images, and fantastic forms blossomed in the work of architects around the world. Breton’s message was not lost, and in rare cases, the most fantastic of styles was applied to the most practical of mediums. Here are three notable examples of architecture Las Pozas. Edward James, once the world’s foremost collector of surrealist art, left Europe in order to realize his dream of building a fantasy city of inspired by the surrealist movement: dream-inspired architecture. Jungle flora and fauna merge seamlessly with Germany’s Einstein Tower was the artificial creations through the use of ruin-styled buildings, the allowing of built in 1920 in order to house scientific plants to grow cover the walls of structures, and the unexpected placement of equipment that would push the boundarbuildings. This dichotomy of natural growth versus contrived artifice parallel’s ies of physics based on Einstein’s newly published research. The tower’s curvilinear the Freudian concept of nature versus nurture. The border between the effect streamlined form features irregularly spacedof each on behavior becomes blurry, just as the border between the natural recessed windows. The entire building ap- rainforest and the manmade complex dissipates. Frank Gehry’s Experience Music Project has been described a “fupears to be poured into a mold, as there is no visible masonry. This structure serves sion of textures, abstract forms, and colors.” The building- if its many seemas a metaphor for the mind; it is a structure ingly disparate parts can be referred to as a unified whole- is a testament to built for reason and scientific advancement, the psychadelic era of rock and roll. Of course, this era was fueled by rampant hallucinogens, which are, in fact, the very same drugs that were used by the but the sterile and scientific interior (the mind’s logical processes) is surrounded by early surrealist painters when they wanted to strip away the encumbrances abstract and undefined forms (thoughts). of conscious thought. The hallucinogenic worlds of surrealist art and rock and roll are both present in this building; Gehry uses the sort of vivid colors and In the remote mountain village of Xilitla, Mexico hides one of the world’s undulating unclassifiable forms that are found in the hallucinogenic subconscious mind. most well-kept secrets, the complex of
A review of sensual clothes throughout the ages by Alice Taranto (11)
Megan Fox, eighteenth century loose gowns, and modern Playboy bunny suits: what do these all have in common? to emphasize the then-ideal hourglass Sexual appeal. However, while bunny figure. The 1840’s ideal female form was suits and the loose gowns may both have actually slightly plump, but with a slim appeal, neither would be attractive in the waistline. An 1845 gown’s V-shape around other’s time period. Seductive clothing and the waist also lengthened and slenderized sex appeal in general have evolved in the the waist, increasing seductiveness. By past hundreds of years. A past exhibit at FIT, the 1870’s corsetry technology advanced “Seduction,” tackled the topic of clothing to shaping a woman’s whole body. An and sex appeal throughout the centuries. 1870’s daydress emphasizes a large Colleen Hill, curator at FIT, states bust, buttocks, curvy figure and the legs. “The proximity of clothing to the body The 1900-1949 area brought is inherently sensual, and thus at its the end of corsets and other “hypermost basic level, fashion is intrinsically feminine Edwardian temptress” styles. erotic.” The exhibit, which is divided by For the ‘20s, in with the “shockingly spare time periods, 1750-1899, 1900-1949 and flapper dresses.” A red-fringed dress’s 1950-now, begins with a preview of a few color represents female sexuality, and seductive looks. Preview the old, long, the general V-shape was suggestive. The busty dresses, the lacy undergarments, swinging beads and trim were considered ankle-slenderizing tango boots (seen sensual when they swished as women as quite attractive in 1914), flapper danced. The styles of this time also dresses and a blue Playboy Bunny suit signified a change in society’s perception (available only in sizes 34D and 36D!). of females and women’s gender roles. Meander into the 1750-1899 area The slim, modern silhouettes were and find that, according to Hill, “dress stressed with straighter, slimmer dresses conform[ed] to appropriate levels of and bob hairstyles that emphasized concealment and decency—for example, the change happening in womenswear. form-revealing dresses were actually The 1930’s brought “sensuously considered to be more modest than loose draped gowns…often rendered in pale silk gowns, which were too closely aligned fabrics, appear[ing] almost as extensions with undress.” Interesting contrasts to of the skin.” The sleek, elegant forms were modern day such as loose gowns being mastered by Jane Régny, “whose clothing less modest show just how far fashion has implied undress through an uninterrupted come. Fashion also, apparently, directly revelation of the wearer’s shape,” to relates to the “With close ties to gender identi- according Hill. A circa trends, social Régny or sexual or ty, beauty, morality, and social 1931 o t h e r w i s e , norms, the complex relationship dress’s intricate of the time between sexuality and dress is details required p e r i o d constantly being redefined,” says a closer look from which FIT Museum curator Colleen Hill. at the details it comes. Hill states that “[w]ith close ties to gender identity, beauty, morality, and social norms, the complex relationship between sexuality and dress is constantly being redefined.” In the 1800’s fashion, especially that of the Victorian era, turned completely from men’s previous styles of tailoring and luxurious, frivolous, statusrevealing fabrics to more pared down styles. For womenswear, “subtle displays of sexuality,” like swishy skirts displaying bare ankles (gasp!), began appearing in common styles. Corsets, “both beautiful and erotic,” appeared in order
of the garment…and of the wearer. The 1950’s brought “ladylike yet highly sexualized fashions” including a new silhouette, no longer slim and sleek, but full and long. The bust was again emphasized, along with the hips and a slender waist. Hats, girdles (slimming the waist and thighs) and gloves appeared as common accessories or garments of choice. The mid 1960’s saw the rise of A-line shift dresses (for the fashion uninformed, this means that the dress falls straight down from the bust to the hem, covering all shape). Mod prints, color blocking, rising hemlines and short
drawing by Zoe Kestan (11)
hair were on the edge. Men also began to heighten their interests in the 1960’s with clothing taken loosely from previously gay styles in what is called, according to Hill, the “’peacock revolution.’” The late 1960’s and 1970’s saw the onset of “hippie” or “boho” style, with long, flowing, “feminine” hair, bell-bottom jeans, naturally dyed garments, earth-tones and peasant tops. The 1980’s and recession times since (including now) brought on neons, body-conscious styles, shoulder pads so wide you needed to turn to pass through doors, spandex and shininess. Big, teased hair had its heyday and bright eye shadow reigned. The 90’s saw the rise of “grunge”—studs, leather, denim, body-con and flannel plaid. Interestingly, fashion has turned to finding the figures of boyish, often anorexic female models the ideal, stylish figure. This is a far step from the figure-enhancing, ankle-skimming styles of the 1800’s. Today, fashion and sexuality often go hand-in-hand, what with some clothing meant to be overtly sexual (think some Halloween costumes) and others to subtly hint at what is to be left to the imagination. Sensuality today, which is, according to Hill, “becoming more varied than ever,” spans the range of underwearas-outerwear (think Marc Jacobs Spring/ Summer 2008 Ready to Wear), transparent tulles and meshes, baggy sweaters, cutout dresses and everything in between. Perhaps today’s sensuality has become less of a uniform and is now as varied as the women themselves who wear the clothing.
f.a.d. magazine issue 2
photo via sensational color.com
Viktor & Rolf
Victor & Rolf A/W 08 via NYMag.com
Victor & Rolf A/W 05 via NYMag.com
Ever since Dutch designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren emerged on the fashion scene in 1996, they have been defying expectations and achieving fabulous success. Their shows toe the line between fashion and performance and create an alternate universe that suspends reality. Viktor and Rolf are artists, and fashion is their medium. Recently, the Barbican Art Gallery in London hosted a retrospective show; “The House of Viktor & Rolf,” featured 55 of Viktor and Rolf’s larger than life creations scaled down to fit 25-inch dolls, complete with makeup and hair. Like the meticulously dressed dolls, all of Viktor and Rolf’s garments are created with the utmost thought and passion. Past business endeavors include a lower priced line of clothing for Swedish mega retailer, H & M, which allowed the designing duo to access an expansive audience, showcasing their line in many of the chain’s 1,200 stores worldwide. However, don’t let this appeal to the masses fool you. Viktor and Rolf epitomize luxury in fashion. Their cerebral concoctions are not commonplace, even on the streets of Paris. While their readyto-wear line is more in tune with a commercial audience than the show stopping pieces found on their runways, even the most avant-garde industry insiders see their creations as eyebrow raising. Yet, that is what makes Viktor and Rolf such extraordinary artists. According to Horsting, “wee will always cherish that feeling of fashion as an escape from reality.” -RACHEL HOLLANDER (11)
In her first film in more than half a decade, Jane Campion (The Piano) tells the love story of the short-lived but celebrated Romantic poet John Keats (who died of Tuberculosis at the age of 25; no spoilers in a historical biopic!) and Fanny Brawne, the girl-next-door. Though Keats’ poetry is used throughout the film to carry the plot, one of the most common threads (no pun intended) through the film is one of Fanny’s interests—fashion. Though it is, of course, early 19th century Regency fashion, Fanny is a style rebel who sews her own garments and wears them with relish. The story opens with Brawne pulling a needle through a piece of cloth. At one point early on in the film at a small country ball, Fanny proudly proclaims to a generally uninterested Keats, “This is the only gown with a triple-tiered mushroom collar in the whole of Hampstead.” However, he admires her tenacity and compassion nonetheless, and their love story is one that will have you (if not just me) crying “Why couldn’t you just line his coat!” even though the target audience of this film all know Keats’ tragic fate. Bright Star stars (oh ho ho, is this two puns?) Abbie Cornish (Somersault, Candy, Ryan Phillipe’s other woman) as Fanny Brawne, and Ben Winshaw (one of the Dylans in I’m Not There). -LIANA MACK (11)
Way up there: Abbie Cornish and Ben Whishaw walk along in a still from “Bright Star.” Below left: Cornish sews a ruff by hand. Above: Cornish in a tight braid and the ruff she sewed.
Opposites attract as creative director Jenna Lyons uses contrast to draw the crowd using a personal, accessible touch by Daphne Taranto (11)
“The company now...cover[s] one’s entire wardrobe from staple pieces to wedding party clothes.” Starting as an assistant designer in 1990 and continuing as J.Crew’s creative director since late 2007, Jenna Lyons received a hefty $1 million bonus this year for her transformation and continued profitable development of the brand. J.Crew now has a professional edge, visible in its website and catalogues with its clothes, but also the layout and models. Top models such as Jessica Stam, Chanel Iman, Behati Prinsloo and Erin Wasson grace the pages sporting distressed denim, puffer coats, and “antique” jewels. According to a StyleCaster.com article about her bonus, “Lyons was… inducted into the CFDA [Council of Fashion Designers of America] earlier this [October], solidifying her power status in the industry.
Chances are, J.Crew has nowhere to go from here but up.” The brand as a company is actually profiting now and plans to continue expansion via new locations. J.Crew keeps the economy in mind beyond its reasonable prices, to include semioften free shipping or significant holiday discounts. Part of the style of J.Crew is mixing those familiar basics with more modern garments and transitioning day or office wear TOP MODEL into evening and weekend Major supermodel wear. Lyons always adds Chanel Iman wears a personal touch with her a J.crew look in “picks” of the season, an the company’s Holiday 2009 cataarray of items that varies logue. to include every article of clothing. As Jenna wrote in the 2009 September catalogue, “I’m infatuated with ladylike classics styled with an edge, natty tweed paired with crackled metallics, a pretty print coupled with a utilitarian jacket, denim and megagems. The look is elegantly off-kilter yet totally polished – perfected imperfection.” Of course, a big supporter of J. Crew is the Obama family. Mrs. Obama wore her full-J.Crew outfit for her “The Tonight Show With Jay Leno” appearance in October of 2008. During the inauguration, Sasha and Malia wore custom CrewCuts jackets, similar styles of which can be found online. Part of J.Crew’s success is due to its relationship with the customers themselves. Because when you open the J.Crew catalogue you know that it is not an out-of-reach one where everything is expensive and evening gowns, there is another connection with the brand – its accessibility because of its realistic quality. You don’t see the prices on the first page and close the whole thing. This is a great example of a brand that’s truly trying now to incorporate both art and fashion together, mixed with popularity and fiscal responsibility. The designers think of details, beyond the hand-made, hand-designed luxury – for example, some chunky sweaters feature thinner sleeves so your arms can fit comfortably under a pea coat. There are now at least
photo courtesy of jcrew.com
The company debuted in 1983 with a deliberately preppy wardrobe concept – literally the name J.Crew was thought up because crew is a nice, classy sport and J is a letter that sounds good. As the basics and staples became a little too… basic, the company knew it had to revamp its familiar image if it wanted to survive. According to the company’s “About Us” page, the joining of Millard "Mickey" Drexler in 2003 as both J.Crew’s chairman and CEO changed the label around, “pushing service, quality and innovation to the next level.” The company now collaborates with several craftsmen, fabric mills, and other brands and labels to create pieces that cover one’s entire wardrobe from staple pieces to wedding party clothes to accessories, kids’ and mens clothes to dog coats.
f.a.d. magazine issue 2
What exactly do you do at J.Crew Group, Inc.? How and when did you start working there? I am an assistant merchant in the men’s factory division. The departments I work with in men’s are shorts, pants, ties, suiting, outerwear, and lounge. I started working here in June of 2007 right out of college. I went through the college recruiting process that previous winter. Where do you live and where do you work? How do you think your surroundings and location affect your style and work? I live in the east village, on St. Marks place. And the office is 770 Broadway, which is only a couple blocks away. The east village has a very “hipster”, “vintage” vibe to it...anything goes really. I think I have a pretty determined style, im much more “feminine” “girly” “edgy” than laid back hipster. They definitely affect my work, i pay attention to every man I pass on the street for inspiration of some sort.
Q+A with Alison Parter, J.Crew assistant merchant.
there who really inspired me and got me interested in the buying/merchandising end of it. What advice do you have for budding high school artists, designers, fashionistas, or bloggers? Keep your eyes, ears open...inspiration comes from anywhere and everywhere! Where do you see yourself going in the future? I really like it here....but the future is a long way away...I like to live in the moment!
When meeting the Prime Minister of England’s wife, Sarah Brown, First Lady Michelle Obama sported this J.crew ensemble.
And lastly, puffer or pea coat? PEACOAT!
photo courtesy of jcrew.com
two separate J. Crew–devoted blogs, jcrewaholics.com and jcrewaficionada. blogspot.com. J.Crew continues expanding, with its spin off line, Madewell 1937, a separate line focusing on denim and wardrobe staples, among other apparel. Don’t jump ship yet, J. Crew isn’t as preppy as it used to be. I know I’m on board.
Tell us about your biggest moment or most exciting project in your career so far. The most exciting part of my job is when we see the lines we built roll out into stores and start to see sales on it. It’s such a gratifying feeling when people start buying your ideas! At what age period did your interest in fashion, art, design, and business begin, and how old are you now? Did you ever have a specific turning point when you realized you had to do something in this field? How do your college studies reflect your current occupation? I think I have always been interested in fashion in some respect. I worked in retail during the summers while I was in college, at a small boutique in Greenwich, CT, and it was my boss
J.crew’s revamped look includes a glasses collaboration, fancy jackets and casual sneakers.
talk to me
with Danny AtheQ+A Roberts pro artist
http://igorandandre.blogspot.com/ Interview conducted by Alice Taranto (11)
My interest in fashion started my junior year in high school because of a clothing company I started in my seventh grade year in school.
Did you ever have a specific Where do you live? How do you turning point when you realized you had to do think your surroundings and something creative? location affect your style and No. I never really saw it that way. I art? just have always liked doing creative I live in Laguna projects. Niguel, California. My surroundings and Can you recall your high school experience location affects my art with art and style, both in school and on your in a big way, my drawings own time? take on the mood of my Yea. I was really involved in art back surroundings. in junior high and high school. I started a clothing company when I was What are your other influences in seventh grade. or inspirations? I have an image archive How did you get into blogging? of old images and fashion It’s kind of funny how it came editorials, my favorite about.... I actually was always artist’s paintings, and intimidated of blogs. I didn’t know photography. I usually try much about them. Back in April of to mix old images with new 2008, my brother was doing internet and mostly try to draw research for the company he worked from the world I want to for, and he ended up talking me into live in. I’m inspired by doing a blog so he could practice almost everything for one things he learned at work. Then I reason or another. New started having fun with it, and Voila, experiences and people the rest is history. It’s really been inspire me a lot. fun blogging. I would say natural beauty and women inspire Where did the name Igor + André come from? me more than anything. Actually, I haven’t really said why That’s why the majority it’s called that yet. It’s named after of my art revolves around a project I’ve women. I also find genuine been planning for the last two years, innocence very moving. I but it’s not ready yet. Sorry about would say romance is a that. real driving force in my work, so when I see or Tell us about your blog and your success feel anything like it, garnered by it. my mind goes wild with I started my blog over a year and inspiration. a half ago. Since then, I have had Lastly, 1910-1950’s over a half million visitors. The era with its Leave It to blog has opened up big opportunities Beaver innocence, and the like working with Aldo shoes and Gwen stern looks on people’s Stefani’s Harajuku Lovers. faces due to the hard times, there is something Please tell us about your collaborations with about it that inspires me. various fashion influences, including Borders + Frontiers, Harajuku Lovers and Heutchy? Is your press manager and I did a t-shirt for Borders + brother, David, ever a source of Frontiers, five shirts and four bags ideas? for Harajuku Lovers, and then a Yes, definitely sometimes fabric print for Heutchy. :) What is your favorite medium or style of At what age period did your working? interest in style and art begin, Hm.... well that’s a hard question and how old are you now? cause my preference changes daily, I’m currently 24 years haha, but I think my favorite, old. I’ve been drawing which also is the one I feel most since I was a little kid. comfortable with, is fine tip pens.
That’s what I use the most, even when I sketch and doodle. I like it because it forces me to put down confident lines without the possibility of erasing. Can you elaborate on your infatuation with professional fashion models? Haha. Well, beauty inspires me, so naturally, I was drawn to fashion models. :) What advice do you have for budding high school artists, fashionistas or bloggers? I would say, be true to yourself and enjoy every moment of learning. Also, let art inspire you. I think starting out, it can be hard to stay true to yourself, and it’s easy to look at something you like and copy it. But I would say, the key to staying unique is to be yourself, because we all are made differently, which means if I stay true to myself, I will be unique. Where do you see yourself going in the future? I hope to direct movies some time in the future. And lastly, do you brush your teeth standing still or walking around? Haha. Great question. Standing still.
f.a.d. magazine issue 2
MODEL BEHAVIOR This page: (clockwisefrom top left) Collaboration with Heutchy, shoe design company. Roberts’ print became the textile on the brogues; model drawing Mina Svetkovic; “The Profile of Mona Johannesson”; Roberts’ drawing of a girl with a hairbow; Fatally Cute Ltd. Edition Harajuku Girls x Danny Roberts collaboration hangtags. That page: Roberts sports his own Borders + Frontiers t-shirt, available for purcahse on his blog. all images courtesy of Roberts’ website
talk to me
An interview with one of the women behind Rent the Runway.
HM ‘01 http://www.renttherunway.com/
Interview conducted by Charlotte Christman-Cohen (11) What is the business objective of Rent the Runway?(RTR)? To enable girls to experiment with fashion and to let girls try out new designers and new styles that they have dreamed of wearing but haven’t been able to afford. RTR enables girls to feel like a princess for a day or night without forcing them to shell out the full price value. How did RTR begin? (Where did the idea come from?) I met my co-worker Jen Hymen at Harvard Business School. The idea really came from her sister’s need to buy something for a fancy wedding she was attending. Jen’s sister realized how much money she has spent on dresses and how many she owned and thought about renting out her closet in order to buy other dresses. The idea really came from Jen and my realization of a woman’s real life need to attend many events and the many outfits and money spent that comes from those events. It’s always fun to wear something new to those events and RTR creates the opportunity to do that for much less than buying all the dresses at retail price. What steps did you take to turn the concept into a business? Jen and I started by doing a field study at Harvard Business School. We talked to a lot of our professors to get feedback from them in terms of how to start the business. That was our first step. Our second step was getting a lawyer to represent us and to draw up the initial plans of our business. After this, our lawyer was able to provide connections for us to venture capital companies. Through these connections, we pitched our business plan to capital companies and ended up being funded by Bain Capital Ventures. Did you enlist the help of professionals or others in the business or fashion world to help you create a business plan? At the beginning of RTR we definitely made it a priority to ask designers what they thought of the idea, because we needed to get designers on board for RTR. We went to Diane Von Furstenberg to propose our idea and she was extremely supportive of RTR and female entrepreneurship in general. We talked to other designers and realized that there hasn’t been that much innovation in the retail phase.
15 MINUTES OF FAME Bottom:Jennifer Hyman, left, with colleague Jennifer Carter Fleiss. Top: Carter Fleiss and Hyman with a RTR bag. all images courtesy of New York Times.
RTR has a buyer who used to work in Ready to Wear at Bloomingdales. He selects most of the styles on our site. We really try to pay attention to what the customers are asking for and what styles and designers they want on the website. For example, lately many customers have been requesting sequins so our buyer went out to look for dresses with sequins. A bit about operations and logistics… Where are the What actions have you taken to promote RTR and get the dresses kept? How do the dresses get out to the cusattention of the press? tomer in a timely and organized fashion? What is the RTR really got popular generally just through word of mouth. After a New turnaround time for a customer? Is it easy for customYork Times reporter heard about our site through a friend, she e-mailed our ers to return dresses? website and then conducted an interview with us for the Times. This then The dresses are all stored at a dry cleaner called Plate in the propelled a lot of other press that caused a lot of media buzz for RTR. (RTR West Village. This makes it very convenient to ship things directly out of has a Facebook group with 1,308 fans and a Twitter page with almost 1,000 the dry cleaner, and have all dresses shipped to there. All the dresses and followers) items are dry cleaned at Plate before they are shipped out to the customer. RTR makes it very easy for the customers. All items are shipped from Plate Who is RTR’s target customer? to their house in a UPS package. After the customer has worn the dress RTR’s target customer is women aged 16 to 30 who have a lot of special for their special event, they ship it back to Plate in a pre-stamped return occasions to attend in their life. There are a lot of different dresses on the package. This process is very easily and familiar for customers, and RTR site targeted to different aged customers. There are different styles for the operates much like Netflix does with DVD’s. younger end of the target customer (shorter, tighter dresses) compared to older customer. There are also many styles for different occasions (dresses Please talk about your Horace Mann experience in terms for weddings, sorority parties, birthdays, dates, etc.) These styles are also of your involvement in fashion or art studies. Did your expanding on a daily basis since we are adding new designers and new interest in fashion start at HM or elsewhere? styles on the site every day in order to broaden our customer base. Actually, I didn’t study a lot of fashion or art at Horace Mann - I actually was a complete library rat there (laugh)! In general, I was never necessarily a What does an average customer spend for a dress from fashion person. I have always liked fashion and thought it was very fun and RTR? interesting. I grew up right in [Manhattan in the East] 50’s, near BloomThe prices on RTR range from around $50 to $100 and the average price a ingdales, Barneys and all those stores. So, fashion has always been an customer usually spends is $100. The prices of the dresses all correlate to interest but I never studied it in school (I did take some art classes but they roughly 10% of the original retail value. were never geared toward fashion). At Horace Mann, I definitely learned the important lesson of using the resources around you. At HM, I would Who selects the dresses on RTR’s website? frequently talk to my professors and used this experience to seek advice
f.a.d. magazine issue 2
How did you get started in the fashion industry? I started by interning at Chanel in the Fashion Public Relations Department in NYC. I was in charge of pulling ready to wear and accessories to send out for editorial credit for photo shoots. I also interned at W Magazine in the Accessories Department-I went on photo shoots, market appointments and picked up fine jewelry for cover and fashion stories, I was able to see what market editors and stylist do on a day to day. This was the best experience-I interned under fashion’s most innovative editors and trend makers-this lead me to only wanting to work at a magazine. The highlight was being a part of W Magazine’s 30th anniversary issue.
A Q+A with the Sittings Editor (aka Stylist) at 17 Magazine
http://www.seventeen.com/ Interview conducted by Dolly Moorhead (10)
How are you competing? Would 17 ever go online? Blogs are amazing-it is a great way to Where do you see yourself going? Ideally I would love to continue working in source new trends, street fashion and the teen market-I love teens they are an in- cover areas of fashion that are seen in spiration and influence commercial fashion. other parts of the world. It makes reI think down the road- I would like to go in searching and developing ideas one click house (mass retailer) styling-brand develop- away-in that sense I don’t think it takes away from editorial or magazines it only ment or trend research. helps editor generate fresh new ideas and concepts. How do you begin work on an issue of Seventeen has an incredible webthe magazine? What is your specific position at 17? We begin working on an issue by pitching site that is best friends with the magazine! Sittings Editor (fancy term for Stylist) I work This covers everything our reader loves story ideas usually 5-6 months ahead of very closely with various departments at about Seventeen and more! The cross time to our director as a department. The the magazine; Styling FOB photo shoots over between the website and our magaeditors in the dept meet with the direc(Fashion, Beauty, Fitness and lifestyle) zine is just another valuable resource and tor discuss each idea in depth about the Handling casting real girl reader models, generates buzz for the magazine and specific month to create our ideal lineup. pitching story ideas for upcoming issues, Our director meets with the Editor in Chief the website and allows both to be stellar working with art department and photo to discuss the ideal lineup for each month. examples of the Seventeen brand. department to develop visual concepts for Our girls are able to see behind After approval from the EIC we meet with art photo shoots and collaborating with fashion to discuss specific concepts, locations etc. the scenes at photo shoots, celebrity and accessories editors to develop trends then we start casting, meeting with photog- updates, and blogs (fashion, fitness and and styling concepts for fashion stories. raphers, going on market appointments to CONTINUED p.40 pull accessories and wardrobe for What is your day-to-day life like working the shoots. I usually have a month to at a major magazine? do fittings, run thru’s and shoot the Casting real girl reader models of all stories for the upcoming issue. shapes/sizes for future stories, fittings with real girl models for upcoming photo shoots, How do you begin to see the styling at photo shoots; working with trends in the industry and choose photographer, hair/makeup artist to create which ones you think will sucand maintain 17 magazine concept for the ceed? shoots. Working with our Editor in Chief, Twice a year (August & February) Creative Director, Fashion Director and the fashion department attends New Fashion department to make sure trends York Fashion week, to see designand concepts are met for upcoming shoots. ers show their collections. We also research online Milan and Paris What has been the biggest moment in shows. After all the collections have your career thus far? shown (Mid March and Mid OctoMaking the leap from styling assistant to ber) the junior brands have market sittings editor. Being on staff at Seventeen week-to show editors and buyers has been both rewarding and incredibly the collections for the new season fulfilling-I find myself challenged and have (August we see Winter and February the ability to grow and develop as a stylist. UNDER COVER we see spring/summer) we meet as I am able to work closely in casting shoots, Top:Blake Lively a department to discuss the biggest being on set styling and working with the on the cover of 17 trends in accessories and fashionfashion department to develop trends and Mag, August 2008. this helps map out the trends over pitch ideas. The best part is working with Bottom: Beyonce the next couple of months. Knowles, Dec real girls and real bodies-I am able to teach 2008/Jan 2009 17 a younger generation about fit, fashion and How are print magazines dealing cover. expression. They are the best innovators with the current rise in blogs? Mullinix photo courand I find my best ideas in them and how http://images.dailyradar.com/media/uploads/showhype/photos_ large/2008/07/12/b.jpg AND http://ninavintage.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/ beyonce-seventeen-magazine-dec2008.jpg
they wear and see fashion and trends.
tesy of Moorhead.
photo by Alice Taranto others via facebooks
1) 1 ( x Ale
“As anyone at HM will tell you, I have gone through many odd “phases”of differing styles. Personally I know my “style” is directly affected by modern culture, but I do not think my past phases nor runways affect what I choose to wear or not. Normally I plan out in general what clothing looks goodtogether, so I can wake up and have an idea of what I can wear that day. It’s hard to categorize exactly where and how I get my ideas for my clothing- sometimes I see someone wearing a shirt that I fall in love with… or I see some cool picture that reminds me of a sweater I wanted to get. I feel that, as a guy it's a lot harder to find good clothing, because the range of clothing outthere that is “acceptable” for guys to wear is very limited.”
“I don’t think I’m influenced much by any particular trends, as ironic as that sounds (of course, I do dress somewhat like a hipster). In all honesty though, I don’t really look up to anyone or take cues from anything at all in terms of style, except for maybe The Strokes (the best band of all time) – but I didn’t start dressing the way I do because of them. I don’t understand runway trends and fashion shows either – everything to me looks pretty ridiculous and avant-garde to me. In terms of what I do wear, I own a ton of J. Crew clothing (sweaters, button down shirts, shorts, etc.) – I think I’m usually wearing at least something from there. Outside of that, I wear mostly solid colored t-shirts, but I do also own quite a few band (The Strokes!) shirts that I wear from time to time (Urban Outfitters sometimes has some really cool shirts, but only occasionally). My style can probably be boiled down to two main things: J. Crew and a few cool shirts.”
(11) n o arris
“I started thinking about style early- around 6th grade or so. You know those cableknit sweaters and Polo pique shirts? That’s what I used to wear. You can say it came from my mom; she dresses really well and taught me all about it! As for now, I shop all over the place- wherever I can find clothes that fit my sense of style. Thinking about it, I do feel that there are rules in fashion. For example, your belt should match your shoes! I guess this is a generally accepted idea. These days, I think fashion has adapted a lot. The idea of “fashion” has become more accepting; no longer do we have to worry as much about a good sense of style being interpreted as gay, metrosexual, or any other sexuality-based stereotype. I really like this idea, but then again, I’m much more conservative. I don’t think that i wear anything too provocative or strange. I’m not a weird guy..I don’t wear weird things.”
guise opinion What are Horace Mann guys up to in their clothing choices? Turns out, there’s more than meets the eye.
arranged by Alice Taranto (11) and Zoe Kestan (11) f.a.d. magazine issue 2
All the Single Ladies
“My personal style is in many ways an ambivalent representation of who I am. It describes, in a strange way, many facets of my day-to-day life. If I feel happy or sad, then my clothes will reflect such a mood. My clothes represent my influences, the most important of which is my father. I have grown up listening to his music, reading his books, and for most of my life, wearing clothes that he has chosen. I am extremely grateful that the man has exceptional taste. Aside from my father, however, my clothing has been stolen from a motley assortment of icons. When I watched Frederico Fellini’s 81/2 for the first time, Marcello Mastroianni’s whole vibe made a lasting impression upon me. Many musicians have also had a lasting effect on my personal tastes. Neil Young’s affinity for plaid shirts and rock n’ roll has rubbed off on me, while I also consider David Byrne’s weirdo style a huge influence. The great thing about this type of clothing is that it is absurdly inexpensive. A frightening majority of my clothes have been purchased from Goodwills or thrift stores on the cheap.”
11) ( m alla
“It’s too easy to say that I don’t care about what I wear; I do. Even if I wake up and put on the first shirt and jeans that I see, when I pick out clothes in a store I have an exact science. I always look for three characteristics that determine whether or not an article of clothing is a good fit for me. The first element of style that always jumps out at me is comfort. Wearing comfortable clothes may not be fashion chic, but the halls of Horace Mann are very different from the runways of Milan and it is important to dress based on your surroundings. Comfortable for me means big t-shirts, zip up hoodies, cardigans, warm scarves and looser fitting skinny jeans, and I truly feel that comfort is the most important element of style. The second element of style for me is color. Sometimes certain colors just strike me and dictate my preferences. My favorite tie is orange, my sneakers are blue and orange, my favorite shirt has yellow in it. Its not just bright colors for bright colors sake, rather a specific color can just have some intangible draw that makes it so wearable. My last element in the CCC’s of fashion is cool factor, or how the clothing looks. Color is a part of this but by cool factor I mean more the design or pattern that dominates the article of clothing. I look for interesting designs or pop culture references in my tshirts and patterns on my sweatshirts, though I am not averse to the plain white v-neck or a plain grey hoodie. It may be a little too passé, but then again maybe the fashionistas are not remembering the first element of stylecomfort.”
Born in Texas and raised in Santa Fe, 48-year-old Tom Ford is the designer and creator of the Tom Ford label and was once the the creative director for the labels Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. He often uses explicit sex appeal in his ad campaigns, especially for perfume. For example, his first fragrance for men "Tom Ford for Men" displays the perfume bottle resting on various parts of a woman's body. A very famous campaign of his for Gucci shows a "G" shaved into the model's pubic hair. His self-financed directorial debut, "A Single Man," featuring Colin Firth, Julianne Moore and Nicholas Hoult (the star of British television programme "Skins"), opened December 11. This film (note: not a movie) chronicles an English professor months after he hears of the unexpected death of his lover. Some reviews say it runs like a 90-minute perfume ad, a verifiable judgment based upon the film's use of music, focus, and color to convey the leading man's feelings. I would say, a mustsee! -DAPHNE TARANTO SEXY THING LEFT: “A Single Man” movie poster.RIGHT: Tom Ford in his own perfume ad.
drawing by Samantha Michel (11)
http://feedprojects.com/ article + interview by Rachel Scheinfeld (10)
When Lauren Bush became an Honorary Spokesperson for the UN World Food Program in 2004 she traveled all around the world and began to became very interested in how hunger was affecting societies around the world. After becoming involved with the FEED Foundation, which is a non-profit organization that finds ways to support people throughout the world who suffer from hunger and malnourishment, Lauren decided that she needed to find a way to help. After graduating from Princeton in 2006, Lauren soon after designed the first FEED bag, which has led to accumulate over 4 million dollars for the FEED Foundation and the WFP. In just 4 years the company has grown and they now sell items ranging from bags to teddy bears. Most items, including the teddy bears and bracelets, are sold on their website, however you can find some bags sold in popular stores including; Bergdorf Goodman, Whole Foods, and Barnes & Noble. By purchasing one bag, the UN World Food Program provides children in 74 different countries with meals for an entire school year. So far online they have sold 505,919 bags and provided 50,709,760 meals!
all photos style.com
by Magica Darabundit (11)
5 in. heels? Switch it up for a pair of comfortable 3 in. heels: cuteshoes, painless feet‚...DEAL!
Love Story Feel like a princess in pastel colors..bring back the Romantic Era!
RAWR! feelin’ as stripey as a tiger? Pull together some stripes!
Are there any new styles or ideas that will be sold in stores soon? Not in stores just yet, but always check out our website and sign up for our newsletter for the latest updates! How long do you plan to continue selling the FEED bags? As long as our customers continue to support us! What is the main goal of what you are trying to do? To help raise awareness and funds for the UN World Food Program’s school-feeding operation
Alexander Wang 2010
How do you feel that the proceeds from selling the bags have helped the people that you are donating to? FEED is incredibly humbled by the success of our bags and so inspired by the number of people who support us, our products, and our mission.
To DYE For
What inspired you to make the FEED bags? Lauren Bush was inspired to make the FEED bags during college, when she was an Honorary Spokesperson for the UN World Food Program. She wanted to find a way to raise money and awareness for the cause in a manner that everyone could take part in, rather than just go to a donate page on a website, which many people probably do not do. But many people do shop!
photo courtesy of feedprojects.com
a Q+A with Kristina Fell, Director of Operations for FEED projects
Break out the batik for a fun dyed look. Ink it up!
f.a.d. magazine issue 2
trend watch nail polish
courtesy of Stylebubble.typepad.com
We’ve all seen nail polish before- it’s the paint that girls (and even guys) put on their nails. You can do it yourself or you can go to the salon for a special treat. It can be shiny, glittery, matte, opaque, translucent, bright, dark, cheap, expensive- the possibilities from varieties are endless. Nail polish today is a bigger fashion statement than it has ever been before. Every color from a blinding yellow to the blackest black is sported on peoples’ nails, and even though these colors are only small accents to fingertips and toes, a little color (or lack thereof) can make a bold statement. Some nail trends you’ve seen lately may be colors you would’ve never expected them to be. Take black, for examplea color that was once purely reserved for “emo” people and rock’n’roll bands is now sported by everyone from your classmates to runway models. And who says you’re not supposed to wear white after labor day? White nails have been appearing left and right, and show no signs of disappearing. Can’t decide between the two? Neither can the growing number of people wearing gray nails. The sheer accessibility and universality of nail polish makes it an accessory that can be changed and used by anyone. Whether you choose a color for your nails to tie an outfit together or to add a splash of color, nail polish is an accent that can say a lot more than it costs, whether it’s a ninety-nine cent polish you’ve had since before you could remember or a shade of Chanel Jade you had to fight tooth and nail to buy before it got sold out (just like almost every other Chanel nail polish.) When was the last time you painted your nails a new color? Or maybe a better question is, when was the last time you put on nail polish at all? It’s time to switch it up and use your nails for something other than scratching. Wear black for a change- people won’t think you’re emo. If you don’t want to try polish because you’re a nail-biter, try Orly’s No-Bite polish (It tastes gross so you won’t be tempted to chew.) Still not inspired? How about showing the world your favorite breakfast food by painting your nails like bacon? Like I said, there’s a polish for everyone. -NICOLE DALESSANDRO (11)
Alice Taranto (11) notes... GUESS WHO? Which student wore a pin (bought at FAD’s October ‘09 bakesale- check out p.41) on his/her sneaker?
A CASE OF FATIGUES: Students have been sporting military style. Below, Chloe Kling (11) wears boots reminiscent of Vietnam; right, Avery (11) dons a canvas jacket.
SPOTTY BEHAVIOR: Recently at a museum, I spotted this woman who had used hair dye to create art on her buzzed hair- she said she spent upwards of 4 hours on the dye job! (Leopard sweater + scarf included. No leopards harmed in process.)
A: Antonio Izzary! (10)
Photos via Daphne Taranto, La Garconne, WWD, xAZDdesign AND http://cache2.asset-cache.net/xc/85177453.jpg?v=1&c=IWSAs set&k=2&d=17A4AD9FDB9CF193B946C5A518E7D4C14A577CB079F1A4A6B01E70F2B3269972
with Andrea AtheQ+A stylist Lieberman behind ALC
Interview conducted by Alice (11) clothing from hollywoods best costume shops Where do you live? I live between Los Angeles and New York
TOP DESIGN Clockwise: ALC dress; Lieberman; Alice (L) & Zoe (R) get styled in ALC clothes by Lieberman (M) at Fashion’s Night Out, Sept. ‘09; A drawing of Lieberman by Daphne Taranto; ALC look; Lieberman with Gwen Stefani.
Please explain being a stylist to us. A stylist creates a look and an image or “vibe” for a photo video or red carpet using clothing while also at times directing and consulting with hair and make up.
What exactly do you do at A.L.C.? I am the creative director/designer of ALC as well as the owner Can you please explain the mission of A.L.C. to us? ALC is a collection of everyday modern effortless chic clothing. I use a lot of jersey fabrics so a lot of the design element is based on the evolution of a tshirt What does “A.L.C.” stand for? Andrea Lieberman Collection
How do you think your surroundings and location affect your style and art? I think even more than my surroundings its my gypsy lifestyle that has been a big influence in my design I design things that can roll up in a suitcase very easily. What are your other influences or inspirations? I spent 2 years traveling in Africa that ha been a big influence in my life both in the way I handle myself and everyday situations as well as my overall aesthetic. At what age period did your interest in style and art begin, and how old are you now? I was interested in art ever since I could remember. Then at 13 when I was looking for a way to express myself I realized I loved fashion and there was no turning back. Can you recall your high school experience with art and style, both in school and on your own time? In high school I knew exactly what I wanted to do I was interested in fashion I took classes at Parsons in fashion illustration after school and during the summer. Everything clicked for me when I realized that design was my passion it made me feel special. I did a lot of personal style exploration in a small upper east side prep school. A lot of people thought I was a bit crazy but I knew I was on the beginnings of a journey that would take me to amazing places. What advice do you have for budding high school artists, fashionistas or bloggers? Go for it!!!!! Explore create experience and enjoy.
How did you start, and what is the relation Tell us about your biggest moment or most between your exciting project in your career so far. styling and Biggest moment so far is being a part of the STYLIST designing? I started books with such amazing company some of my fashion doing music videos in heroes!!! the late 90s Why do you feel being a stylist Who was the most exciting person you have is important? Being a styled so far? What kind of collaborations, stylist for me was an styling editorials and magazine covers, have you amazing experience it done so far? I have done designed tours for Gwen Stefani has taken me around done covers for V magazine elle harpers bazzar teen vogue as the world and put me well as many others. Where do you see yourself going in the in situations I would future? In future I plan to focus more on ALC maybe start never have been in if I a mens collection and have another baby! had not been working. Creatively it has allowed And the inevitable question, what do you see me to evolve by being as trends for Autumn/Winter 09/10? lots of black exposed to the best and leather a modern evolution of the 80s strong shoulders of what fashion has and aggressive shoes….modern gothic. to offer from chanel couture to the prized And lastly, cross-body messenger bag or collections of vintage shoulder bag? For me a large shoulder bag or a small cross body!!
f.a.d. magazine issue 2
The aughties decade in review. Zoe Kestan (11) gives us her favorite shows from each year .
Lanvin Spring 2005 RTW Alber Elbaz took his disadvantage this season- and turned it into a magnificent creation. A broken wrist had limited Mr. Elbaz to only “big gestures” leading him to create a collection of “volume and weightlessness.” The show was all bright yellows and hues of purple-ultimately, it was “lovely.”
all information and photos courtesy of style.com Prada SS 2000 RTW This show proved to the world that Miuccia knew what she was doing. What many described as the “Classic Look” created quite the buzz in September of 1999, making this show one of the most popular of the season. Neutral, yet saturated, colors, eye pleasing silhouettes, and cosmopolitan vibes made each look enviable and incredibly desired. Christian Lacroix Fall 2001 Couture Lacroix’s show in July of 2001 was filled with detail. The embroidery, the feathers, the ruffles, the beading, the jewels, and the furs all created a collection that was an artful and experimental look on luxury. The couture show was inspired by the Franco-Spanish traditions coming from the designer’s native Arles all tied in with Lacroix’s ever-lasting sense of beautiful excess and indulgence. Balenciaga SS 2002 RTW Patchy, tribal, ethnic, yet romantic were some of the words used to describe Nicolas Ghesquiere’s show this season. He mixed the blatantly luxurious and labor-intensive pieces with loose and effortless cargo pants while short and exciting pink numbers made their way down the runway before a series of loose, black and white tuxedo-pieces. This show definitely proved that “opposites attract.”
In his first 13-look collection, we’ve been given an eccentric carnival. He showed us a “parade of perverselooking harlequins with pom-pom hairdos, painted faces, and pointy hats.” The show was playful and silly, yet he kept us glued to his true creativity. It was a work of art. Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2007 Couture A religious experience. With every model walking down the runway crowned by a halo, this show was noted as “a visitation from the saints.” Each look was inspired by art from Catholic churches around the world while models had their faces painted like plaster statues of the religiously significant. We saw chic dresses and pantsuits inspired by monastic hoods and nunlike wimples-- this show continued to prove that Gaultier never ceases to play with his wit.
“Rock”, “Warrior”, “Luxury” were some of the terms used to describe Burberry’s show back in September of 2007. Christopher Bailey gave the world a modern britain: flash, punk, edge, confidence.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2004 RTW Mr. McQueen never puts on a boring show. In 2004, he showed just how much he likes to defy the status quo of the fashion world. This was no ordinary fashion show; spring of 2004 gave us a reenactment of Sydney Pollack’s They Shoot Horses, Don’t They? Inspired by the Depression-era, the garments were absolutely tailored, corseted, and some were even fishtailed lamé. The show was a truly extravagant take on the past.
Gareth Pugh Fall 2006 RTW
Burberry Prorsum Spring 2008 RTW
Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2003 RTW With a jumble of tartans, checks, and hounsdtooth, Yohji Yamamoto brought unconventional silhouette to classic motifs and patterns. Volumeplayed a huge role in this collection, making shapes that led the designer to label his vision, “couture that could be worn on the street.”
Balmain Spring 2009 RTW With one of the most popular shows of the season, Balmain gave women across the globe clothes they wanted to wear. A little 80’s, a little 70’s and a lot of edge and sex-appeal. Ultimately, they were gorgeous clothes.
haley marber (9) says...
BE ma ATRI ne scot CE, F , ck sc spo AD’s arf r in ts Cin new sty le. dy’s
Eleven years ago, when I was five years old, my aunt sat down with me in her backyard for hours teaching me to knit. My first attempt at a square came out more like a ‘C’ shape and my second try was a scarf that has mysterious bumps and valleys in it. Ever sine then knitting has been mostly a way for me to connect and bond with my family. These fingerless gloves were inspired by a pattern, but I did not stick to the exact instructions. The yarn was purchased at a store in Massachusetts called Webs, one of the largest yarn stores in the world. Generally, my inspiration for the pieces I knit come from hours of flipping through knitting books or from digging through piles of yarn in yarn stores. Sometimes it takes days to decide my next project or a few tries to get it right, but in the end it’s always worth the time to have something that you know is completely your own achievement. The inspiration for these fingerless gloves came mostly from the icy, wintery feeling from the yarn and the wintery concept for this edition of f.a.d.
Horace Mann’s own knit knotted up accessories
Prop design: Vivien Ikwuozom Assistants: Alice Taranto (11) f.a.d. magazine issue 2
cindy chen (11) says...
My mother taught me how to knit with some yarn we found at a 99 cents store. It was just basic acrylic scarves for a while, until I found the Yarn Co. I got my first “real” skein there (a skein is what you call a quantity of yarn) in 8th grade, 100% merino wool in a lovely multi-shaded purple, after spending 3 hours stroking the cashmere blends and basically just being bowled over by the displays of color and texture. I never used up this yarn (Manos Del Uruguay, wool clasica in the colorway violets) because I never found a good enough pattern for it, despite scouring ravelry.com for a long time (it’s free and you can also post your projects). However I have made other projects and discovered my addiction to fingerless gloves, which are totally versatile and oh so pretty! It is a myth that all handknits are ugly and bulky and embarrassing to look at; first of all, yarn comes in so many sizes (thread thin to gigantic rope) and so many colors, so there’s bound to be a combination that works. To share my love for all things yarn, I cofounded In Stitches (the stitch club) with my friend Liana Mack and maybe we’ll get to share some of our projects at our bakesale in April.
ur style ting club, In Stitches, just for FAD Mag.
(9), Photographers/ and Zoe Kestan (11)
Find Haley Marber’s knitted gloves in our makeup photoshoot, Too Cool for School on p.32
Students: Contact Cindy Chen to join In Stiches, HM’s knitting club.
antonio (10) 1. Who or what inspires your
style? My music definitely has an impact on my socalled style. I also draw influence from what I see people wearing, and what I don’t see people wearing. There’s also a level of experimentation that I do because I feel the need to test out my own creativity.
dr. casdin- english dept. 1. What is one article of clothing or an accessory that you could not live without? Right now, it’s my scarf. Knotted. I like the the warmth and softness around my neck. 2. What do you think about mixing prints? Mixing patterns--and textures and colors-is a firmly held belief of mine. 3. How would you describe your style? Sadly, Town and Country, but style is a self-generated fiction, a kind of fictional truth. 4. Do you like putting on a suit everyday? I rarely wear a suit. I think of dressing for work as having some of the productive constriction of the sonnet. 5. Do you feel that their are restrictions on how you dress because you are a teacher? A colleague has informed me that I cannot wear skinny jeans.
2. What is one article of clothing or an accessory that you could not live without? My converse that are (quite literally) falling apart. 3. How would you describe your style? It’s a cross between punk, hipster, and the most vibrant color combinations I can assemble. 4. Plaid or Plain? Both. But plaid if I really had to choose one. (I do love solid colors) 5. Where do you get the majority of your clothing? No place in particular. I’ve always found sucess in and around the Village.
1. What inspires your style? I just wear whatever I feel like on any given day. The biggest influence on my clothes is probably just how cheap I am. I love vintage clothes because they can be really inexpensive but are unique and well-made, while stores like Urban Outfitters try to imitate and mass-produce them at a lower quality and charge six times the amount. In general, I gravitate towards stuff that’s retro. Except shoulder pads. The worst. 2. What is one article of clothing or an accessory that you could not live without? Haha I don’t have a life-or-death relationship with any of my stuff, but if I had to choose, I guess I’m naturally most attached to the most expensive piece of clothing I own. If anyone spilled on my bandage dress, I’d probably make them pay me. 3. How would you describe your style? I guess fun and varied. I like mixing high-end with low-end, and mundane things with stuff that’s more out there. Sometimes I wear kind of ridiculous things because I find them amusing. And I like bold prints and colors-- this store in Harlem sells clothes from Mali and Senegal, and their dresses have the best prints.
streetat HM! style
continued on page 40
30 arranged by Rachel Scheinfeld (10)
f.a.d. magazine issue 2
1. When did you become interested in fashion? When I discovered superfuture® in November of 2008. 2. What is one article of clothing or an accessory that you could not live without? My lived in Sonet OO8 jawnz. 3. Are there any designers whose clothing you feel resembles you style the most? A very poor man’s helmud rand or Yuichi Kuroda’s rad musician. 4. How would you describe your style? Generic lazy malnourished denimhead? Perhaps. 5.What is your favorite thing about having a distinct style? The amount of time I spend trying to find stuff I like that also fits. Yes I enjoy it so very much very much so. 6. Where do you get the majority of your clothing? Or do you make any of your own? Random places/ I wish all my tops were from the Temple of Jawnz, but some things aren’t meant to be.
mrs. starobin- librarian amanda (10)
alle T g
1. Does being a librarian effect your style? Well, I certainly dress way more conservatively than I did when I was a student. But I think some of that is a carry over from my days in the corporate world. Of course there was a period when I had my own business and I could dress as wild as I liked, that was cool. Now since I’m just sitting in one place all day and I like to sit yoga style I always wear my stretchy pants. Hmmm, that’s not very exciting is it, but I like to take my shoes off and tuck my legs under me, hard to do in a skirt or tight pants... 2. What is one article of clothing or an accessory that you could not live without? I’m going to my closet right now because I think there are several things I love. Uh oh, too many things. I’m going to lay them all out on the floor and take a big photo of them. Can I do that instead continued on page 40
mrs. black- MD english dept. 1. How would you describe your style? I would say my style is both urban and feminine. That might be the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever typed.
1. What inspires your style? It’s kind of just like my own creativity but from magazines and fashion icons as well. 2. What is one article of clothing or an accessory that you could not live without? blazer. they add a sophisticated look to the outfit without making the outfit too fancy. its also cute and comfortable. 3. Jeans or Tights? TIGHTS!!!!! they are so much more comfortable and cute and go well with anything. 4. How would you describe your style? floral with hints of vintage. 5. Do you think having more color in an outfit is better than just simple black etc.? i think with every black outfit a little splash of color makes it more interesting. and if you have a outfit with lots of color adding some black features tones it down a little and makes it more apporiate for school. 6. Where do you get the majority of your clothing? urban outfitters/ american apparel/ top shop.
2. What is one article of clothing or an accessory that you could not live without? I can’t live without black Gap t-shirts, an assortment of cardigans, or my white pashmina. I’m also especially fond of my new engagement ring! 3. As a teacher do you feel that their are restrictions on how you dress? As a teacher at HM, I feel lucky to wear reallife clothing. I look the same during the week as I do outside of school. continued on page 40
I sort of fell into modeling by accident. I am by no means a professional runway model, but modeling is something that I enjoy doing for fun. I began modeling when I was “discovered” by a Betsey Johnson store where I often shop, and they asked my sister and me to model for them for “Fashion’s Night Out.” We gladly accepted, as we thought it seemed like a fun opportunity to get to wear clothes right off of the runway! After Betsey Johnson, “Seventeen” magazine happened to send an email around to some designers asking for model referrals. The people from Betsey Johnson told us to contact the people at “Seventeen” who asked for some photos. After I sent in the photos, “Seventeen” contacted me asking if I would like to model for their March 2010 issue. I clearly said yes, what girl would pass up that kind of opportunity? The first thing you do for a photo shoot is go in for a fitting, to make sure the clothes fit you properly, and so you can make any adjustments that may be necessary before the shoot. I was shooting two looks for a designer, so I tried them both on to make sure they fit properly and looked right. After the fitting, you come into the studio about a week later for the photo shoot. First you have your make-up done, then your hair (by the way, my make-up artist was an HM alum!!). After that, you CAREFULLY put on your clothes, last minute hair and make-up adjustments are made, and then into the studio you go! I was really nervous at first. You are standing in a room full of people, telling you how to move this way and that, and act “natural.” The lights are super bright so you can barely see, and you have to do a new pose every time you hear the “click” of the camera. You get to make a playlist though of some songs and they will blast it through the sound system to help you loosen up. After a while, you get really into and are sort of dancing around the studio, awkwardly, by yourself on a huge white platform while someone is taking pictures of you. Its actually fun, getting to make a total fool out of yourself while there are people screaming encouragement at you! It was also really fun to see the pictures popping up on a big screen the second the picture was taken, so I could see what poses worked and didn’t. All in all, it was a wonderful experience, and I can’t wait for my next photo shoot!
it(9) kn r e b r gery Ma Hayle e sweet fin es ted th ves! lo less g
too cool for
Jenny Lim’s (11) take on win
Assistants Alice Taranto (11), Zoe Kestan (11)(also Student models Dolly (10), Suman f.a.d. (11), Yasmin magazine issue 2
For this issue, a winter theme was the subject of all of the makeup looks. White frosty shimmer and glitter eyeliner were incorporated in each of the looks to highlight the snowy winter theme. The makeup look on Dolly was an ice queen like look using frosty colors such as white and light blue on the eyes which, in this case, were the focus. To add more emphasis to the eyes, I added a rhinestone to the corner of each eye. The cheeks were slightly contoured and given a pink flush to also add to the strong ice queen look. Lastly, white shimmer was added to the high points on the face and all over the eyes to give a snowy and frosty effect. Yasminâ€™s makeup look was created combining inspiration from dark but vibrant auroras, colorful wrapping paper and the fashion world. I used a variety of shades on the eyes including different blues, greens and purples which was meant to represent colorful wrapping paper that we all use during the holiday season. For the lips, Alice and Zoe wanted to incorporate a rhinestone lip that they had seen in a fashion show into the makeup looks so I decided to use it on Yasmin. This greatly emphasized continued on next page
ter wonderland makeup.
photographer), Vivien Ikwuazom (9). (11), Nicole (12). january 2010
photo by Alice Taranto others via facebooks
glam aurora n
fa s ’ y
ar h c e
continued from previous page the lips giving it a glamorous feel. Next, I was inspired by the image of sitting by the fire drinking hot chocolate when I created the look on Nicole. Chocolate brown and other warm colored shimmery eye shadows were used on Nicole’s eyes while I also used a warm plum color on the cheeks to really accentuate the overall wintry feel of the look. I included a frosty light pink lip on Nicole to bring the look back to the winter theme. Lastly, Suman’s makeup was inspired by the thought of Christmas with gold ribbons on presents, the shimmering bright decorations on Christmas trees including the gold stars at the tops and Santa Claus with his bright red clothes. A shimmering yellow almost champagne color was used on the eyes where I also used a siren red color in the crease. The rest of the face was kept neutral but illuminated using white shimmer and frosty colors.
jenny’s face chart
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who wore it better? HM’s stylish librarians battle it out
caroline vs. rachael bartels myers photo taken by nicole dalessandro
student photos courtesy of facebook.com
“Bartels wore it first; therefore wore it best...” Julia photo taken by nicole dalessandro
BATTLE WEAPONS Both “Bartels” (left) and “Myers” (right) wear the same cotton blazer from Anthropologie. “Bartels wore it first and it grabbed my attention!” Myers says.
“Myers has more swag.”- Matt and Alex
“Myers looks ready for a hard day’s work catching fish, while Bartels looks just about right for controlling a bunch of crazy teenagers.”- Kristen
Rachael Myers: crafter extraordinaire!
How did you make this bag?
As a winter craft project, I sewed it using a pattern from a book i have at home. I mostly used scrap fabric from back when i worked with a fashion designer. Oh, and some fabric was from Ikea, too. It was all very cheap.
How long did it take to make? Is it personAll in all, it took about 3 hours. And yes, it is personalized! It has custom pockets on the inside for my cell phone, wallet, notebook,etc. along with the magazine and coffee holder on the outside. I also used a keychain from another bag and attatched it to the side.
What are your favorite projects to do? I guess i would have to say that my favorite is to take clothes and to altar them. I love to take old clothes and make them fit differently, or change the way they look- make them more interesting.
Lastly, any project suggestions? Well, these bags are great. The one i made is pretty complicated, but there are some ways you can make a tote bag out of only 2 scrap pieces! It’s all up to you; you can make it however you wantit to be- that’s what’s pretty great.
photos taken by zoe kestan
paint your art out
etch a sketch Jasmine Mariano’s (11) designs for a fashion collection inspired by one word:
These drawings were mainly inspired by my fascination with cravats, waistcoats and old British naval uniforms, with a dash of modern Japanese street fashion thrown in. I tried drawing something eclectic and new, but they ended up vaguely steampunk-ish instead. Steampunk is this weird fantasy/science-fiction/alternate history thing that mixed 19th century aesthetics (think Hollywood depictions of Victorian London) that’s a lot less prudish, and technology that’s a lot more Jules Verne-y. It’s difficult to explain and a lot better than it sounds. The fashion itself is a mix of certain antiquated fashion styles, either modernized or conceptualizing how else they could’ve evolved. What if petticoats and top hats never went out of style? What if someone designed the corset to be wearable and less of a torture device? What if we still all had monocles and pocket watches and traveled around in steampowered dirigibles? (These are obviously pertinent and pressing questions to ask.) In that sense it’s really more ‘fantastical’ than it is fantasy, but fantasy is all a giant ‘what if?’ anyway, so I think it’s a fitting inspiration. In sum, when I think fantasy, I end up drawing retro-futuristic neoVictorian fashion. I don’t think this is necessarily a bad thing. (I guess what I’m really trying to say is, wouldn’t it be awesome if we all had monocles and pocket watches and traveled in steam-powered dirigibles?)
all images and text courtesy of Daphne Taranto
paint your art out
artist’s statement Artwork by HM’s resident artist Daphne Taranto (11).
I enjoy combining hand-made and digital art (such as applying the use of Adobe Photoshop) because these technologies allow me to expand what I can create. I can not only generally clean up but also totally transform the look of the drawing or whatever it may be. A major lesson that I learned while at my semester program The Oxbow School in California is that you can really tell a story or express meaning through art. Our final project assignment was half intense, thorough research of a topic and half executing these ideas in an art piece. My idea for my painting came together towards the end of the project when I had already gone through the process of several drafts - both in terms of my paper and my art project. In the end I combined digital (seen in the background) and hand-made art. Here you will find my artist’s statement for my final project.
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“Technologically D e t e r m i n e d ” Heavyweight large format bright paper, acrylic. 20x30 inches.
Do digital tools shape our thought processes and our perception? Does virtual culture shape who we are as individuals, as a society? I researched how our brains interact with the Internet – how does this virtual world on the screen impact our society, our art, and our perception of the world around us? I am interested in the aesthetics of the Internet as a virtual culture and hypervisual world. What is the look, feel, dimension, and characteristic traits of the virtual? The increased speed of the Internet changes more than just what we see on the screen – it changes how we function. I have explored our lived experiences versus information received via technology and new media. My topic started and ended with several vast questions, leaving you to decide how technology affects and impacts you. The Internet is becoming a universal mode. It can be described as a conduit for most of the information that flows through our ears, eyes, and minds. How are individuals affected physically, functionally, and artistically? How does contrasting digital and handmade evoke this topic? In this piece, I created a patchwork of autostereograms made from figures that I drew. I digitally repeated these drawings to create a looming wallpaper behind my self-portrait. The combination of these optical illusions and my self-portrait represent the issues surrounding technological determinism. Is society shaping technology or the other way around? Are we improving and building upon previous inventions to suit our present times or vice versa? This omnipresent topic may affect anyone and everyone who presses the power button – the computer january 2010 in all our eyes. screen is reflected
MORE TO READ 1 3 continued from 0 STREET STYLE AT HM p.3 RENA BRANSON
I don’t dress in any particular way, I just tend to throw things together. 6. Where do you get the majority of your clothing? My favorite thrift stores are Metropolis, Beacon’s Closet, and Buffalo Exchange, but I also get stuff at more average places like Bloomingdales. Some of my favorite items are things I’ve “borrowed” indefinitely from my grandparents’ closet, like my grandmother’s boots from the ‘70s and my grandpa’s beat-up leather jacket and gold pocket-watch. And I love the kids’ sections at high-end department stores-- I can fit into the largest sizes, which sometimes (especially in the case of Little Marc Jacobs) means getting prints or designs similar to the grown-up ones while saving an absurd amount of money. So basically, I buy clothing made for fat little kids. Shamelessly.
of taking a photo of me in them? I’ll do that tomorrow after school. Oh yes, and shoes, I was really, really into shoes. I’ll have to take photo of those too. 3. What creative things have you made that have made you interested in design and fashion? I used to sew a lot when I was in high school. I loved buying wild fabrics and making dresses (because girls weren’t allowed to wear pants then - don’t get me started on that topic please). I once made a fully lined wool cape with a hood. I still have it!! It’s a hounds tooth and it was so cool and done so professionally that people asked me to sew things for them. I also used to think that I was 6 feet tall so I would wear very big jewelry and belts. I also used to wear red rubber boots. When I
was in graduate school the punk scene was really big and that was the music I favored. In keeping with that I used to wear a ripped sweater held together by safety pins - for a while I wore it every day (yikes) over my Ian Dury and the Blockheads t-shirt. But even then I favored very eclectic things. I loved shopping. When I was in Ghana (I did volunteer work there about 12 years ago) I bought some wonderful fabric in the market and then made a dress from it when I got home. The SittingTaller Handbag!!! http://www.sittingtaller.com. It’s an adult booster seat in a handbag that I created - because I’m so tiny and wanted to be taller when I sit down. It allowed me to be creative in so many ways, in the style and design of the bag and especially in the bag’s interior, where the fabric can really give it some ooomph. It’s been a real success story for me. Who knew it would appeal to such a wide audience and that people all over the country would order it. Life is good! 4. What is your favorite clothing season? SPRING for sure because nothing is covered up by your coat and you can wear awesome flouncy skirts. 5. How would you describe your style? Darn it, it’s sort of boring isn’t it? Now you’ve made me want to wear some of my more wild things. Maybe I will! Or maybe I’ll just stick with my stretchy pants....
MRS. BLACK 4. Have you ever had a situation when you were wearing the same thing as one of your students?
I own some of the same shoes as my students, and I’ve overlapped the occasional J.Crew or Anthropologie sweater, too. My student have extraordinary taste, so I’m fine with it. Students, I think, are probably less thrilled than I. 5. Where do you buy the majority of your clothes? I buy the majority of my clothes in various department stores. You can’t beat the sales, especially during this time of year!
0 from our interview 2 . continued p
with JENNIFER CARTER FLEISS while at Harvard Business School and seek advice from the people around me while building RTR… By the way, I love Horace Mann! I met my husband (Jenny was
recently married in June) at a Horace Mann gathering! Also, we recently had a recent HM graduate (Jen Barsky of ’08) intern at RTR this past summer and currently have enlisted the help of another recent graduate (Chelsea Turner ’09). What advice do you have for young creative businesspeople with an idea, like yourself? My advice for any young businesspeople with an idea would be to just totally go for it. Instead of sitting down and creating an extensive plan, it is much more effective to go out there and sell your idea to see if it will work. Jen and I did this by running focus groups and seeing if real girls out there would be interested in an idea like RTR. Initially, we bought about 100 dresses at full retail price and tested it out to see if
f.a.d. magazine issue 2
What is one accessory you couldn't live without?
girls would be interested in renting them. So again, just go out there and really do it!
Sorry I can’t narrow this down to just one item (the life of a stylist) great flat, heel, handbag and vintage Rolex watch
How do you want to see the company evolve over the next few years?
Sweet of choice: Chocolate or gummies?
This spring, RTR will be introducing accessories and bridal to our renting options. It’s such a great concept for a girl to be able to pick out the dress or outfit on our website and then also be able to pick out the extra accessories to really make the entire look perfect. The accessories will allow the customer to dress up or dress down the outfit! The accessories will mainly include jewelry with some handbags as well. In terms of bridal, this definitely came again from Jen’s sister and the idea of weddings. RTR’s objective is to get rid of ugly bridesmaid dresses and encourage brides to rent the dresses from our site for their bridesmaids so they only have to wear the dresses once and will end up paying a lot less. The focus of RTR is really just for ordering our items for one event, which sets it apart from other websites like Bag, Borrow or Steal.
Hard question-dark chocolate BUT I will pass over chocolate any day for gummies in Paris!
Lastly, what dress on the RTR website would you love to own?! I’ve realized it’s much more fun to rent a different dress every weekend to be honest! I’d much rather wear new styles all the time than invest in dresses that I only can wear a few times. I don’t want to buy anything ever again, and my husband is pretty happy with that!
1 2 . p
continued from our interview with BETSY MULLINIX
news) from editors. Not only do you have the current issue but you have a user friend website that lets you gain further access to Seventeen.
What advice do you have for any budding artists/ fashionistas who want to break into the industry? The best thing to do is intern-you is able to gain hands on experience in the industry, make contacts and really learn about the profession. It’s the best way to see the day-to-day interaction of what is expected of an editor or stylist. Also research-read magazines, blogs, visit websiteexhibits really immerse yourself in fashion this is the best way to be prepared for when you intern, interview or shadow an editor. What is your favorite trend of the moment? I love distressed (jeans, shirts, sweaters and leggings) this is a very easy look to take from school to night to weekend.
Drawings by Danny Roberts. All courtesy of igorandandre.blogspot.com
Top: Handmade bags and pins sold at our bakesale. see how one student sewed an “f!” pin right onto his shoe on p. 25! Bottom: Alice and Rena work the tables.
your turn Do-it-yourself! fun projects for indoor days
2 3 42
duct tape bow by billie kanfer (10)
Measure about 8 inches (or more) of any color duct tape
Fold the tape in half, left to right. Then fold top to bottom, accordion style (like you are making a paper fan)
WHAT YOUâ€™LL NEED 1. 2. 3. 4.
Hair Clip Duct tape Scissors Ruler
Line the large part of the clip with the middle of the bow and put a piece of tape around the front and top part of the clip
You are done! Now you can add anything else extra that you want
Pinch the middle of the tape together to form a bow
done! f.a.d. magazine issue 2
STEP 1: Choose by magica darabundit (11) Turn flared jeans into trendy skinnies. a pair of flared jeans and turn STEP 5: Mark the them inside out. line with pins.
I SPY FAD Issue One! STEP 2: Mark at the bottom for 6 ½ inches (usually the width of skinny jeans)
WHAT YOU’LL NEED 1. flared/bootcut/ loose jeans 2. ruler or measuring tape 3. pins and a pen or pencil 4. needle and thread or a sewing machine
STEP 6: Sew along the line.
(Machine sewing is more permanent, but you can hand stich too.)
drawing by Samantha Michel (11)
STEP 3: Mark where your derrier ends.
STEP 7: Try ‘em on! STEP 4: Draw a line from where you previously marked to the 6.5” marking.
p.s. if you want to bring back the bell bottoms or whatever status your jeans were in before.. just undo the seam!
watercolor image by zoe kestan
want to write for FAD?
email zoe kestan or alice taranto
p.s. be sure to check out our first issue online at
F.A.D MAGAZINE Horace Mann School 231 West 246th St. Riverdale, NY 10471
and Find FAD Magazine on Facebook!
f.a.d. magazine issue 2