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Zoe Romano @zoescope @openwear_cc

From open source branding to collaborative clothing Barcelona, July 2012


Precarity in the Fashion System In 2005 San Precario collective based in Milan organized an action to highlight the exploitation of workers in the fashion system created a fake fashion designer and managed to insert it in the official calendar of Milan Fashion Week ★ We

presented a brand identity and the immaterial reality of her existence. ★ We

collection of allegoric outfits expressing our experiences of work and, at the same time, showing our skills ★A

★The

action involved 200 workers and creatives living and working in Milan


What to do next After the Fashion Week and the successful action we decided to create a no-profit association to ★

keep reflecting on work in the creative industries - over-production

being active on experimenting self-production and craft - understanding quality ★

start a reflection on intellectual property, open-source and branding - value Fashion garments are not protected by copyright, only the brand is protected by trademark


Oh! We have a Trademark Brand built to appeal

Brand expressing who is nurturing it

Values Cultural mix - Controversy Elitistic

Values Sharing - Social innovation - Flexicurity not precarity - Alternative economies

Brand as symbolic apparatus to gather relations toward consumer culture

Brand as tool to promote new values in society


The Fashion System: a polarization

Big Brands

Fast Fashion


A new trend: the rise of DIY


The values, the imageries and the desires expressed by our brand are not manufactured to foster consumerism and based on exploitation but to empower a network of small producers and promote a different kind of fashion based on collaboration, sharing, short supply chain and else.


A Metabrand is not a Certification A Metabrand is a bottom-up brand created buy a peer-reviewed network of small creators and consumers who produce value for the brand and benefit from it at the same time


2009 Let’s go EU application EDUfashion network was formed by: Poper (Slovenia), Ethical Economy (UK), Università Statale Milano (IT), Copenhagen Business School (DM), Fashion University (Slovenia) ★

Research on the Open Design and p2p fashion

Prototyping the community in 2010


Key point of experimentation

Define the networked artisan as a new worker fashion designer ------->networked artisan<------------ crafter/artisan (highly immaterial)

(highly material)

• • •

Brand Open Source

The online community as a new Public Space

Enterprise goes social: Social goals are primary, business is a way to achieve them

Copyright (Creative Commons License, GPL, etc.),

Manufacturing becomes a distributed process (makers/manufacturers) Copy as a legitimate resource Fashion doesn’t protect the technical specification of the garments.


The new role of the freelance designer: she inhabits the global spaces of online communities and shares locally projects and infrastructures


NETWORKED ARTISANS/STUDENTS/CONSUMERS

EDU INSTITUTIONS (universities, schools, learning centers)

LOCAL HUBS (social enterprises) Suppliers


3 shared resources

â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Building and online and offline community to share knowledge, find support and collaborators to define a new model for crafts.


â&#x2DC;&#x2026; A series of Collaborative collection with an open-source brand â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Prototypes freely downloadable which members can produce and sell, benefiting from the social innovation created within the community.


Openwear is open-source

http://vimeo.com/16541497 â&#x2DC;&#x2026; A collective brand made open-source by a license â&#x2DC;&#x2026; The pattern and the logo become a common of the community


- Download - Produce - Customize - Label with Openwear


Peer-reviewed Network


WORKSHOP - Make it with the laser!


Making it together is better than making yourself


Zoe Romano