factory Bright Young Things THE UNDERGROUND ISsUE £2
THE EDITORS... KATE FLORENCE BRAZIER loves Supermodels, leather pants, and Prince.
People who dislike the Moss and party poopers.
Penciling in your eyebrows, and the island of Capri
AMY GURER loves My cameras, Lara Stone, New York and London.
The ordinary and boring.
Recommends Mint aeros.
NIKKI WILLISON loves Stella McCartney, big ass heels and summertime in Paris.
Spiders, heights and her heels in legs.
Sam Hiscox, Sophia Kokosalaki shoes and ISTD ballet.
For our first issue we are giving you two covers Issue one: THE UNDERGROUND ISSUE On our cover: Nikki B/Camille
HEY. Calling All Fashion Obsessives, Enter The Factory Your Only Place For The Forefront Of Emerging Fashion Talent. We Have The Freshest Faces Of The Runway, The Designers Kicking Ass On The Underground Scene, The Stylists, Make-Up And Hair Artists With A Natural Flair For New And Exciting Creativity. We Love The Inspirational Fashion Youths Sticking One Finger Up To The Norm And Paving Their Own, Individual Way Into Cracking The Industry, And We Aim To Share Them With You. Why Showcase The Anarchic Photographers On The Indie Scene, And Not Give Them A Mention, A Feature? Here At The Factory We Believe That Everyone Should Be In The Spotlight. So We Welcome You To Our First Issue, We Welcome You To The Fashion Production Line, And We Hope Youâ€™ll Find Something Entirely New, Motivational, And Ultimately Underground. Welcome To The Factory.
SUMMER 2010 inside the Underground Issue CONTENTS 01 ed letter 02 hey 04 The underdog of fashion capitals 05 sheâ€™s all that 07 factory news 09 our factiry girl
011 brighton rocks 013 soul survivour 018 all american kool kid 026 wonder women 028 check this face
The Underdog Of Fashion Capitals Ask any fashion editor, buyer or stylist how they spend February and September of each year, and they will most likely describe a flurry of runway shows, presentations, and parties along with long haul flights between the four widely accepted fashion capitals. While London has the eccentric flair, Paris does chic at its finest, Milan sells sex and New York means business, Australian Fashion Week is certainly showing promising signs for making it as fashion’s fifth go-to place for the latest talent. Held at the Overseas Passenger Terminal at Sydney’s Circular Quay each Spring, not only does RAFW (the week is sponsored by the Rosemount winery) showcase some of the most exciting raw talent of today, but the venue is also host to some of the countries finest views, overlooking the exquisite Sydney Opera House and the surrounding skyline. Over 100 designers are rocking the runways of RAFW, including the uber-cool and ever rebellious Stolen Girlfriends Club, who have a teen Americana vibe with jersey hotpants and little knotted tees, Ellery, who took inspiration from the star signs for a collection with amazing architecture and Karla Spetic, for the chic woman who loves fluid drapery and fantastic tailoring. Not only is RAFW catching up with its competitive sister cities by sharing some of the major sponsors – Blackberry, Redken and MAC – but the relatively new week on the fashion calendar has it’s heart in the
Stolen Girlfriends Club SS10 right place, with numerous ethical standings. The smoke-free policy enforced even advises attendees to avoid being photographed with a cigarette, understandably there is zero tolerance on illicit drugs, and the organisers have even put guidelines in place regarding healthy weight and body image, and model ages and procedures.
Backstage at Ellery SS10
The five-day schedule is a press only event, but invites budding fashionistas to volunteer for the week via the website – a fantastic opportunity for anyone wishing to experience a fashion week first hand, and for anyone else wishing to go behind the scenes of the catwalk, the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney are holding Frock Me, an exhibition to celebrate the 15th anniversary of RAFW. For more information visit rafw.com/au and www.powerhousemuseum.com Inspiration for the collections at Ellery
SHE’S ALL T H AT.
Kasia Bobula’s first spontaneous forage into fashion photography began accidentally at a friend’s catwalk show, and resulted in her bagging her first project for Dazed & Confused - so it’s understandable that with a combination of raw talent and a quiet confidence, the 26-year old freelance photographer and journalist is climbing the fashion ladder… and fast. “I was helping my friend Krystof Strozyna backstage at his show and he asked me if I could bring a camera. I didn’t have a digital camera at the time so I had to bring my manual SLR” Bobula tells us. “The pictures turned out really nice, so I decided to send them to Dazed. I think that was the project I ever submitted to them!” Despite studying BA Fashion Design with Marketing at the esteemed Central St Martins, Kasia chose to focus on journalism and photography following her graduation, after falling in love with the media sector. “Whilst studying, I did a couple of internships with fashion designers” she explains, but it was during a three month placement at V magazine in New York that she found a compelling attracting to the media industry. “It felt much more dynamic and stimulating to me than any of the fashion studios I saw in Europe, and a lot more vibrant to me than design. I believe that the world of big fashion houses is a very glamorous world on the outside, but when you step inside it, it can be quite alienating too.” Bobula puts her career as a freelance journalist down to coincidence – “I was quite bored one summer in Poland and decided I needed something to do,” she reminisces, “A friend was working for A4 magazine (which is now defunct), and asked me if I wanted to write something about fashion”. It was from this break that Kasia went on to write the front section fashion features for Dazed & Confused, as well as stints at Tank, Useless and Hintmag. “When it comes to those things, luck can be just as important as hard work – those opportunities mainly came about from a lot of emailing and random encounters.” Originating from Warsaw, the beautiful capital of Poland, Kasia takes inspiration from her past, inheriting her mother’s talent for creating an uncharacteristically beautiful image – “It’s quite interesting to see that while we took pictures in different countries and at different times, they do display a lot of similarities. The tower blocks, the children, the sleeping people.” she muses. “Apart from my mother, I also love some of the classic photographers, like Sally Mann, Ed van der Elsken and Irving Penn.” Backstage photography is unsurprisingly one of Kasia’s favourite pastimes, as she explains why she is attracted to the set-up of it all. “When you
think about it, it’s one of those rare places where you have the best models, styling, makeup and clothes under one roof ”. What about the environment, though? “Yes, the fact that it’s so crowded and fast-paced makes it much more difficult for a photographer to work” she admits, “But it almost becomes a hunt for the right moment. And when it’s right, it can be very, very beautiful.” Fashion aside, the young freelancer enjoys photographing the “outcasts of the city” and is “fascinated with tower blocks and the seemingly grey architecture of Eastern Europe” – a far cry from the beauty of fashion, though? “For me, there’s no division between ugly and beautiful. Sometimes something very sad and grim can be very beautiful at the same time.” Having had work featured in the likes of Nylon Japan, Dazed & Confused, Surface and Elle, Kasia has quite an in-depth knowledge of the fashion industr y, a place that she describes as a “beautiful yet scary environment… It’s full of amazing people, but there is also a slight tendency to exploit people and make them work for free whenever possible”. That said, she condones the idea of free placements, but not for long periods – “Work for free, if you can” she advises “But only for a year. I did a few internships at different fashion companies and two magazines, and learnt what I enjoyed and didn’t enjoy. After that, set your boundaries. And as cheesy as it sounds, never give up on your dream!”
Backstage Meadham Kirchoff AW10 (above & opposite page).
Follow Kasia’s work on her blog – Kasiabobula.blogspot.com
Furry creatures at Topshop Unique (above) & Henry Holland backstage AW10 (left).
You’re So Vain. With a rebel spirit, curiosity for androgyny and a burning desire to experiment – “it’s all about getting really gross fabrics, and giving them a new life” – London based design duo Fanny and Jessy are already making their mark on the fashion map, and all after only two collections. Ultimately anti-establishment, the girls – who are otherwise known as Fran Usher and Jess Jobst, or endearingly and collectively known as ‘FAJ’ ’ – caused a stir with their graduate collection, entitled the macabre I Hope You Die Soon. Don’t go thinking their morbidity is aimed at your direction, however: the girls named the collection after narrowly avoiding nervous breakdowns doing their final year collection, and all because of their hate for LCF. Now, we wonder what Louise Wilson would make of that. Vaniloquence, FAJ’s latest offering delves into an even darker place than before. “It means vain or foolish talk,” the girls explain “Which to us at this moment in time sums up fashion.” The collection retains the Fanny
and Jessy signature for clashing fabrics – with spindly web-like knits, sheer, leather and cotton maxi skirts and thick floral bomber jackets toughened up with quilted patent shoulder pads. When asked to describe the FAJ buyer, interestingly, they go with a male figure – “A confident man, that wants to fuck us both” the pair joke, “but can’t, ‘cause he’s probably gay… also with super skinny legs!” It isn’t only their take on unisex clothing that’s defying the generic path of the fashion circuit, Fanny and Jessy present their collections off schedule at London Fashion Week, and intentionally so, too. “Off schedule is fun… It works for us” Fanny admitted, “You don’t have all the other stresses of Fashion Week going on around you and you get to control what you’re doing and make all the decisions for yourself.” “It also represents us as a brand as it sets us apart from the whole fashion thing” Jessy added, “Which was our intention from the beginning”. Fanny and Jessy is available to buy online at Fannyandjessy.co.uk
While newly-married Lara Stone may be rocking the bleached eyebrow trend, up and coming Australian model Bambi NorthwoodBlyth sure is bringing the bushy brow back into fashion. Sitting alongside the leggy likes of Alessandro Ambrosio, Erin O’Connor and Naomi Campbell on the books of Priscilla Model management, Northwood-Blyth may not be the tallest at 5”8, but her elfish bone structure and strong look has already landed her the front cover of Australian Harper’s Bazaar, a shoot for Rushh magazine and a few snaps from The Sartorialist himself, Scott Schuman. Formerly known as Stephanie, the 18-year old newcomer has already been compared to Hilary Rhoda, Brooke Shields and Kim Noorda, and dominated the Spring/Summer catwalks of Australian Fashion Week. While she’s currently based in Australia, judging by the momentum of press she’s been gaining over the World Wide Web – Wildfox Couture’s Kimberley Gordon even illustrated a ‘Bambi’ fashion doll along with her sketches of Kate Moss and Chloe Sevigny because she loves her that much – it won’t be long until Bambi will be making her break from Down Under. Watch this space…
The Lovely Bones.
as Jones endearingly named the beast, was created the night before the presentation at his press day held by Relative MO, from shark, crocodile, vulture, bat and porcupine bones. “I buy dead things off the internet” Jones morbidly revealed, who also names a colony of Dermestid beetles for bone taxidermy as the number one present on his wish list. Despite the sinister edge to his work, there is a lot of beauty that shines through Jones’ examination of nature and biology through jewellery, which ranges from £225 to £455 and is stocked at the prestigious Browns and Matches. Add a piece or two of Jones’ statement jewellery to any outfit and you’re guaranteed a state of authority – although perhaps these accessories should come with a warning… an anatomically correct vampire bat skull necklace isn’t for the faint hearted.
FA C T O RY NEWS O
When you’ve got Vivienne Westwood, Kate Lanphear, Sienna Miller and Lou Dillon as avid fans of your newly established jewellery line, you know you’re definitely doing something right. As if his uber-cool fanbase wasn’t enough to go by, London-based jewellery designer Dominic Jones has not only been commended by Anna Wintour, but also found himself as the British Fashion Council New Generation Award Winner for two consecutive years, as well as being commissioned by Sophia Neophitou to create the accessories for the AW10 Thierry Mugler show. Jones shot to fame with his debut collection in Spring 2009 after setting up his eponymous business with Alice Dellal – a long time friend and now business partner – winning over the critics with his seriously fierce range of gold, copper and silver accessories, in the form of spikes and horns. The Buckinghamshireborn designer’s latest collection has moved onto macabre animal and insect parts, with crocodile jaw cuffs, scorpion necklaces and scarab beetle rings, for which he created a sculpture to display the pieces. ‘The Monster’,
Head Over Heels.
along with each pair of beautiful Finsk shoes being lovingly handmade in an atelier in Brazil. Although it's a tough call, we have our eyes set on a pair of the nude wooden wedges: quite possibly the ultimate leg lengthening heel, and perfect for summer. Visit http://www.finsk.com/ for more information.
If, like us, a show-stopping pair of heels makes you drool, then be sure to look no further than London-based brand Finsk. Set up by Finnish born Julia Lundsten in 2004, the wooden wonder wedges and futuristic heels of Finsk have not only strutted down the catwalks of Basso & Brooke and Ports 1961 at both New York and London Fashion Week, but also landed the designer the prestigious Manolo Blahnik award for two consecutive years, with Blahnik himself describing her collections as "Exquisite, divine and perfect". With an architect father and an interior designer as a mother, it's easy to see where Lundsten - who likens a shoe to a chair gets her inspiration from, with many of her designs using sculptural elements and a mix between leather and wood. Her designs are not only lust worthy, but they're also ethically made, with all leather used in the collections coming from by-products of other industries,
OUR FACTORY GIRL
MODEL RACHEL HO PLAYS HOMAGE TO EDI SEDGEWICK.
Photography: Amy Gurer, Styling: Amy Gurer and Kate Brazier, Hair: Sunderland and Barnett, Make up: Kate Brazier, Model: Rachel Ho.
Brighton rocks Welcome to The Factory, tell us your name/nicknames and occupation. My name is S-A-M, I’m a person who takes pictures. So, ‘Deadpan’ Sam, why such a straight face? Not much is funny today… a combination of arrears letters, angry people and running out of food!
MEET DEADPAN SAM... When asked to imagine the quintessential British seaside town of Brighton, you’d be forgiven for picturesque scenes of spinning carousels, illuminated piers and royal pavilions springing to mind. Not, however, the gash flashing, coke snorting, alcohol-fuelled creatures of the night that 25-year old Sam Hiscox – also known as Deadpan Sam captures through his brutally honest lens after dark. Don’t be misled into thinking that all of Hiscox’s work is as sarcastically witty as the content found on his exposé blog, Partie! Partie! – the Don’t Panic! photographer and co-founder of fashion photography magazine Gang Up also runs DayGlo Poster, capturing raw street fashion in Brighton, and LongTime Dead, his ultimately cool lifestyle blog documenting his ‘work and brokeass cheapskate life’. Taking time away from the social cesspit that is Brighton’s nightlife, we managed to bag an interview with the man behind the camera.
How did your career in photography begin? I was always asking for cameras when I was younger, I just liked taking pictures. I don’t remember properly, it must have been from the age of 7 or something. I vividly remember having this Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle camera which was sick, you could fold over a piece of acetate and Donatello would appear in the pictures with you! So, between Donatello and SLR – did you study photography? I studied as soon as I could which as at A-level, and went on to take a foundation. Then I chipped off around the world for 6 months when I was 20, and started a photograph-a-day project which was supposed to last from my 20th birthday to my 21st. I never quite got there - my camera got fucked when I was half way up a glacier in New Zealand and I didn’t like making the project using my digital camera. When I got home I had uni placements waiting for me but I didn’t want to go. I moved to Brighton instead and started doing day jobs whilst looking for more creative work. After being fired from a crematorium I found a job at Don’t Panic and after a couple of months they hooked me up with a job at Digital, a new club on Brighton seafront. From that point on everything has kinda escalated and I’ve been freelancing for lots of different people. Do you remember the first photo you took and loved? Some flamingos, a phone box and a lorry. I guess that’s more than one, I also took a picture of a parrot which came out double exposed when I was about 12 - I remember I liked that one.
Describe your style to us in three words. That’s not many words but I’ll go with these: fun, hot, dirty. Who or what inspires you and your work? Life itself… everything. My taste changes a lot over time so I’ll go to something new then back to something old. At the start my main inspirations aesthetically were Larry Clark, Nan Goldin, Diane Arbus and Corinne Day. They are amazing. At The Factory, we’re all about fashion. Tell us more about your street style blog. I have DayGlo Poster, an ongoing project which has been pretty slow of recent times ‘cos I’m basically a vampire. It’s more of an arty approach than the likes of Sartorialist and Facehunter. I started that two years ago, now there’s literally hundreds of crappy blogs like mine. We absolutely love the unashamed crudeness of Partie! Partie! – care to explain the method behind the madness? Partie!Partie! was born out of boredom and spending most of my waking hours in nightclubs shooting the pretty and the wasted. These pictures weren’t seeing much daylight and I thought it was a shame that nobody else got to witness the retardation and beauty I was seeing every night. And finally you cofounded Gang Up magazine. How did this come about? Gang Up was originally the idea of Kevin Mason who approached me asking if I wanted to make a mag. I ended up shooting 1/3 of it, naming it and designing the whole thing from scratch. That was loads of fun and we are still working on our second issue. It’s basically a fashion photography concept mag with a bunch of sick editorials and no adverts. What would be your dream project, or who would you absolutely love to work with/for? Dream project? That’s hard, I wanna do loads of stuff… loads of different stuff and not just stick to one thing. I get bored easily and I’m constantly looking for something new. It’d be nice to one day have my own company and team where we shoot loads of hot, new and original work for all kinds of people.
Tell us more about your work process. If I have my own concept and it’s set in my head, I’ll go to wherever it is with whoever I’m shooting and shoot exactly that without straying. That kinda winds me up personally because I know there will be really nice shots and variations I’m not taking. But at the time if it’s not what I want, I won’t do it cos it makes decision making and editing a right bastard. For instance one of my first shoots for Gang Up, I went to Shoreham downs at 4am after working in a club - walked around for about an hour and a half, took eight pictures and went home. That was my editorial done. I could have spent another two hours taking different angles, but then it would have become something else. I had a strong visual in my head of what I wanted, and took exactly what I wanted. On the other hand I can find myself with a bunch of people I don’t know and we make something together. I’ll take suggestions then direct things so it looks right for the picture. I like it to be a two way thing and see what happens, or even a three way thing it just depends who’s there! I guess it’s a bit of a documentary approach that I like to take on everything. A photographer’s most prized possession is surely his camera – mind revealing your camera make and type to us? Oh man that shit’s so boring. I don’t wanna say because the camera I use the most really has zero effect on the finished outcome, and I cannot stand the Nikon/Canon debate. I’ll tell you what I want though! I really want a Bronica ETRSi, and an Olympus OM-1. Oh, and a Nikon F5, a Contax T4 and an Olympus Mju II… What do you love most about being a photographer? Choosing when I work. What interests you about the subjects you feature as Deadpan Sam? The people themselves - everyone is different and that is amazingly mind-blowing and cool. What are your thoughts on fashion? I wish more people knew how to dress. For you, what are the
most beautiful and ugly things to photograph? The ugliest, over pouting - the most beautiful, hot girls. Standard. What do you like to do besides photography? Paint, draw, make films and masturbate. Any other cool photographers or artists that you suggest we check out? This guy called Christophe Kutner. I go back to him quite a lot, he’s amazing and I wish I had some of his ideas before he did. In 10 years, what will Deadpan Sam be doing? I can’t even plan 10 days ahead of myself. I have no idea; hopefully I’ll still be taking pictures for a living and have done something iconic.
Sex, Drugs and Rock n Roll? Sweating. Your dream day would be..? Waking up with my memory restored to a normal state. Check out Sam’s work at: Samhiscox.blogspot.com Flickr.com/samhiscox Dayglo-poster.blogspot. com Partiepartie.blogspot. com Gangupmagazine.com
What are you most proud of? Making it into five national papers with some graffiti stunt I pulled when I was 17. That and travelling around Europe and America last year with Icelandic band ‘Múm’ as their personal photographer. What comes into your head when you think of
Soul Surviver Photography: Amy Gurer Styling Amy Gurer Hair: Sunderland & Barnett Make up: Holly McDade Model: Camille Armstrong
ALL AMERICAN KOOL KID
Photography: Kate Brazier Styling: Kate Brazier Hair: Sunderland & Barnett Make up: Benefit Model: Nikki B,
Wonder Woman. STYLIST
While other teenage girls were worrying about boys, arguing over the latest Topshop collection and discovering the joys of alcohol, fashion obsessed Naomi Mdudu spent her adolescent years running across London interning for some of the best British fashion publications, eventually leading to her setting up her own online fashion magazine, The Fash Pack. Alongside being co-founder and editor of TFP, Naomi – who is amazingly only twenty years old – is also a freelance writer and stylist, so we were thrilled when the young wonder woman spared us a few moments, and told The Factory how her career in fashion, and styling in particular, began. Hi Naomi, welcome to The Factory. Do you remember when your love for fashion began? My love for fashion traces back longer than I can remember. I have an older sister who was a 70s baby so she was in love with everything 80s and 90s. As soon as she went out I’d sneak into her room and try on her clothes. My mom worked in the theatre for over 20 years so we always had amazing stage costumes and make-up in the house. I really started getting into fashion around 2003 when I bought my first copy of ELLE. It was Lorraine Candy’s first issue as the new editor.....the rest is history.
Can you remember the moment you knew you wanted to be a stylist? I’ve fluctuated to be honest. I always knew that I wanted to work in fashion, I just didn’t know what. A couple of years back I got a bit dissatisfied with British magazines so started reading internationals like French and Italian Vogue. In one particular issue there was a shoot styled by Emmanuelle Alt and modelled by Eva Herzigova in the streets of Paris. From that moment on, I knew that this is what I wanted to do. How did you begin your career as a stylist? I started freelance styling independently about 18 months ago. I originally started out in fashion as a PR intern for a young Italian accessories designer whilst I was still in college and was then promoted to head of in-house PR and Sales not long after, so I was used to working with stylists on product placements and for shoots, and was always envious of their job! PR and sales was never really for me so I started interning and assisting at magazines like Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar and Tatler, which really made me interested in styling. After that I assisted freelance stylists and worked as a fashion editor for an American publication for a while before going alone. Where have you enjoyed working the most and why? I loved working at Tatler. The team was small and close and really supportive. I learned so much from their senior fashion editor, Hannah Teare. She’s such a talented stylist and has an amazing eye so I’m eternally grateful for working there and assisting her. I learned so much. What or who inspires you as a stylist? I get inspired from everything; buildings, art, movies, travel. One of the best quotes I’ve heard in a while was said by Grace Coddington in ‘The September Issue’. She said that you should never close your eyes because you should constantly allow ‘She was just 17’ Fash Pack Editorial (above & left)
yourself to be inspired. Since then, whenever I’m travelling I also make sure to stay awake. Simple things, like the architecture in Paris never fail to inspire me. Who have you styled for? The Fash Pack is my baby so I devote the majority of the time to that but at the moment I’m working on a long-term partnership with Urban Outfitters. Last month I styled and directed their German ad campaign and have a lot of cool things lined up with them and a few other campaigns set so it’s exciting! What has been the highlight of your career so far? Wow, that’s a really hard question. I think being named on the of the top influential online fashion journalists last year was definitely one of them. This year I was asked to talk to some young people about my journey and about working in the industry so that was lovely and really rewarding. Describe a day in the life of a stylist. My days fluctuate from day-to-day. One day can be on location with my team on a shoot for the whole day; on others I can be editing images with photographers, chasing samples, casting models, attending press days and product launches, visiting showrooms or doing the dreaded task of returns! I love the flexibility. Everyday is different. Describe your style to us in three words. Kate. Lanphear. Inspired Are there any other stylists or up and coming fashion talent you suggest we check out? Designer wise, Maria Grachvogel is amazing. I will definitely be shooting lots of her pieces for A/W2010. I’m a big fan of Maria Francesca Pepe too. I’m also very lucky that I have such a great team for my site. What are you most proud of to date? That’s another hard one. My achievements with The Fash Pack have completely gone beyond my expectations. I started it in early 2009 with my friend, Jill Hlbrenner as a light relief from our day-to-day jobs completely self-funded and it’s grown beyond my wildest imaginations. Also, I came into fashion with nothing more than enthusiasm so I consider myself extremely lucky. What would your dream day be? A day spent with the French Vogue team and shooting with David Sims. Check out Naomi’s work at www.thefashpack.onsugar.com
027 ‘Autum Light’ Fash Pack Editorial
Check Out This Face:
Model stats: Height 5’9 Shoe 6 Hair Blonde Eyes Hazel She’s been working extensively with Rankin, and David Sims adores her. Meet the newcomer on the model scene, Suki Waterhouse in our exclusive interview with one of fashion’s freshest faces. Only at thefactoryzine.blogspot.com
“ I only leave good wishes behind....” www.thefactoryzine.blogspot.com