Factio Magazine Spring 2009

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factio-magazine.com Spring 2009

theArt Issue



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Woman of Style

Cynthia Rowley

Cynthia Rowley Store 1653 N. Damen Ave. Chicago, IL 60647 773.276.9209 cynthiarowley.com

RxArt

Photos courtesy of Cynthia Rowley

208 Forsyth St # 1 New York, NY 10002 212.260.8797 rxart.net

When Cynthia Rowley was a senior at The School of the Art Institute of Chicago, the designer sold her first eight-piece collection to some of New York’s most prominent stores and that was only the beginning. Cynthia’s creative endeavors are loved all around the world, the CFDA honored her more than once, she has appeared on a wide range of television programs, and she’s a magazine favorite. She also co-authored the best sellers Swell: A Girl’s Guide to the Good Life, Home Swell Home and The Swell Dressed Party. Cynthia Rowley has many hidden talents and sides to her. She enjoys death-defying adventures like skydiving and she stars in art prime-time television commercials. Art is one of her biggest loves and always an inspiration; her husband co-owns an art gallery in New York and she’s an avid contemporary art collector. Factio had the opportunity to interview the designer that brings art and fashion together, before she arrives for Art Chicago to do a public conversation with Nick Cave. So find out about her love for the fine arts, her favorite magazines and what makes her smile. FACTIO MAGAZINE: How does your love of art influence your work and personal life? CYNTHIA ROWLEY: My husband and I are pretty deep in the contemporary art world. He co-owns a gallery in New York with Andy Spade and James Frey, called Half Gallery. It shares its space with RxArt, a not-for-profit that puts contemporary art in children’s hospitals—hence, the name of the gallery. Bill and I are both on the board of RxArt, and they’re actually working on an installation at a Chicago hospital. We’re holding a shopping party at our Damen Avenue store on Friday, May 1st, during Art Chicago, to help raise money for the project. Bill also writes about art for magazines like Purple and is the artistic director at Tar magazine and Tar Siz publishing, where he’s edited books on Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com

Rachel Feinstein, Marco Perego and Jonathan Meese. We collect art and are friends with a lot of artists. It’s impossible not to think about some artist or work when I’m designing the collection. There are many distinct inspirations that go into designing each season, and art is always one of them. For fall ’09, we were thinking a lot about the art of the Weimar Republic, like the work of George Grosz, as well as Josephine Baker, who was an artist in her own right. FM: How would you describe your art style? CR: We collect mostly contemporary art. Our favorite pieces are the ones we either commissioned directly or where we have a personal connection to the artist: Rob Pruitt, Terry Richardson, Ryan McGinley, Marilyn Minter and Tom Sachs. We also have an extensive collection of rare art and photography books that are signed or otherwise marked by the artist, like with a little drawing. Our friend Natalia from Luhring Augustine says that her book collection is the art collection she wishes she had, which is exactly how we feel. FM: What are your favorite art museums? CR: I love the MCA, and the Art Institute in Chicago has a fantastic collection. Here in New York, the MoMA, P.S.1, the New Museum and the Studio Museum in Harlem top the list. FM: What art era would you want to live in? CR: I like the idea of spanning several eras. I’m fascinated by the fact that Louise Bourgeois has lived through and personally experienced every major art movement since the birth of modernism. FM: What’s your vision on art in collaboration with fashion? CR: I like to collaborate with creative people on

artistic projects, like our 60-second film that we made with Andy Spade and Red Bucket Films that ran in New York City taxis during this past Fashion Week. Prior to our little film, no other designer or artist had created original content for Taxi TV, and we wondered why anyone hadn’t done anything interesting yet. Art is so much a part of my life that it serves as inspiration for our designs every season—there’s always an art reference. One collection was inspired by Yves Klein’s blue, and another referenced Andy Warhol’s Rorschach paintings. The most fun, though, is when we work directly with an artist, like when we collaborated with Will Cotton on the “Candyland” show. It began when Will asked me to design a few outfits he could use in his paintings. Will himself makes delicate paintings of girls in fanciful candy-covered settings. It was so inspiring that the cupcake hats and dresses with “icing” trim quickly grew into an entire collection. FM: What are your favorite (art) magazines and/or issues? CR: Artforum, Tar and Purple. I also like National Geographic, Make magazine and Monocle. And my new favorite is Factio! FM: In your opinion, who’s the most important female in the art/fashion world right now? CR: I don’t know if I’m qualified to judge, but my personal favorites in the art world (who all happen to also be very stylish) are Kara Walker, Rachel Feinstein and Thelma Golden. FM: You never leave home without…? CR: Keys, or how would I ever get back in? FM: What makes you smile? CR: My little girls when they yell, “MOMMY!” - Chloé van der Wel


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Photos courtesy of Francine Turk

EDITOR’S LETTER

Artist

Francine Turk Francine Turk masters internal emotions through organic forms to create soulful works of art. Turk’s use of varying mediums that include oil, pastels, and mixed media capture poignant emotions, conveyed through beautifully blurring compositions. The originality and captivating canvases have brought the Chicago-based artist much deserved attention and praise. Francine Turk’s artwork has most famously been featured on the Universal Studios set in the Jennifer Aniston and Vince Vaughn film The Break Up. The artist also welcomes the public to meet with her one-on-one and view her current works in progress at her working studio and gallery located in Chicago’s historic Prairie District.

Enjoy and as always, thanks so much for your support!

ctually in Paris, a m u e s u asso m to the in??? Pic e people g th e b m I o o fr d is aintings Where ing in Par azing. I love the p korn th y r e v e Dieben ght. Am any and e to the li awings of Richard spired by r tu c e it h arc e dr ver in itchell, th I am fore e of Joan M ign of Laura Kirar. ffled by th r... a b s d e n d a e e and th n foreve i Matiss s of Henr thko. I could go o k r o w e th o of Mark R paintings

Melissa

LOVES

Melissa Maynard editor-in-chief

Henrique Kerch publisher/art director

Jane McCormick assistant editor Chicago contributors

Francine Turk Gallery | 18 East Cullerton, Chicago, IL 60616 312.674.1818 francineturk.com

What inspires the “moods” of your work? Life. Illness and healing. What is the most memorable moment in your career? Three years ago, when my gallery was broken into and all of my paintings were stolen. This was actually a great thing. My husband went out and got me a German Shepherd puppy. This dog is the love of my life. He opened my heart. How were you chosen to be featured in the movie The Break Up? Did the movie escalate your status or celebrity buyers? I was showing charcoal drawings in vintage frames at The Randolph Street Market. I was desperate to sell some pieces to keep my studio open. I was approached by the set designer Dan Clancy and the rest is history. It was not competitive...there were actually works from several artists in the movie. I believe they placed pieces where they worked on the set. I just lucked out because my collection was very visible compared to the others. The movie did escalate my status oddly enough. My work did not change, but people’s perception of my work changed. The power of Hollywood is interesting that is for sure. I do have celebrity collectors that shall remain nameless, but I do not think it is because of the movie. They came through other avenues.

ADAM LIPPES I am very inspired by Mid Century American Art. I love Alex Katz, Noland and others that represent the Color Field. I love the unexpected in art, different textures. All centuries have something inspiring. Established artists, as well as new artists inspire me. Different streams, old and new, can be inspiring. As long as it speaks to you, that’s what art does.

What are people most surprised to know about you? That I am a very simple person. A White Sox baseball game, an evening with my husband and dog on the sofa, and a cheeseburger on the grill with a cold bottle of Miller Lite. Although I love fancy things, my reality is not fancy. -Jackie Medler Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com

Photo by Alicia Nieto

ORLANDO ESPINOZA Art can convey beauty in the simplest forms. It is this perception of beauty which visually stimulates me, compels me to dream and fuels my passion when I am designing.

Georgia Bistolaridis Jackie Medler Chloé van der Wel Nora Silver Katie Davidson Advertise in print/web, contact publisher,

Henrique Kerch

kerchh@factio-magazine.com 773.989.0192 Visit Factio Media online at

www.factio-magazine.com www.runwaytoretail.com www.artinsideout.com www.chicagofashionevents.com For more information/subscriptions please contact us at info@factio-magazine.com Factio Magazine published by Factio Media, Inc., Chicago, IL

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO I think art is really inspiring. It’s so interesting because I am so inspired by art, but never know what artists are or who they are or what they are doing or what ideas they have. I just like what they create. I try not to take it so seriously. I think that’s why, when I do pieces, it’s organic and not forced.

Has your artwork changed styles over the course of your career? Yes and no. My work has remained figurative, but I have experimented with mediums and styles ranging from classical to expressionistic. I have been artistic my entire life. I began to study the figure only six years ago. I actually wanted charcoal nudes for my own home and could not find what I wanted. I had always been petrified of a figure drawing class but decided to jump in. I had a great teacher, Julian Williams. I loved the class and have not grown tired of working with the figure to this day. Do you enjoy your Chicago location? I love Chicago. I have met (because of my gallery) so many wonderful people. I think Chicago has the greatest people that exist. I recently signed a contract with Chicago Art Source Gallery and Jayson Home and Garden. I work with the Holly Hunt (Interior Design) showrooms nationwide. Interior design is another passion of mine, so it seems fitting that my art works well in that world. I am also considering some opportunities on the west coast.

Dear readers, This issue is always one of my most favorite to produce, especially with it being put out during Art Chicago! We love the mix of combining art and fashion. We take a look at local Chicago artists like the incredible Francine Turk and Michael Brucks, and check out the art collection of Paper Magazine’s Peter Davis and see how art inspires designers Adam Lippes, Christian Siriano and Orlando Espinoza. We always look at fashion as art, so we of course can’t forget about the amazing Jack Perno (and his team) who created our fashion photo shoot. They continue to inspire us issue after issue!

cover: white blouse and black skirt by Calvin Tran, white hat by Yohji Yammamoto, Ikram Photography | Jack Perno | jackperno.com Photographic Asst. /Digital Tech | JJ Jetel Producer | Lisa Fishering Hair | Cindy Adams for Timothy Priano/Steven Papageorge Academy Fashion Editor | Jesse Rodriguez Makeup | Cammy Kelly for Artists by Timothy Priano Model | Maddy Mcmullen | Elite Chicago Makeup by Cammy Kelly for Artists by Timothy Priano. “With the vibrant colors of spring approaching, I wanted to create a look that was healthy and fresh, but had pops of color like blooming flowers. Just a few drops of Giorgio Armani lasting silk foundation gives exceptional coverage with a luminous finish. Mediteranne and Grenadines eye shadow from Nars cosmetics and Red Square velvet matt lip pencil punches up the look. Cream cheek blush in Cactus Flower by Nars gives a beautiful glow.” Insider Tip: a little pearlescent shimmer applied to the inner corners of the eye gives the eye depth and a brighter feel.


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Michael Brucks Artist

Rebecca Hunter of Redmoon Her Style

His Style Artistically, I most like to make things that can trigger an emotional reaction beyond a person’s control. I love to exploit human beings this way. I love to be exploited this way. Everyone remembers a movie where you tried your hardest not to cry, but you cried. How did that happen? If you apply this to fashion, for example, I used to walk around in a red, silk, pinstriped sweatsuit with 1996 FTC Martial Arts National Champion stitched on the back. I’d wear really crisp, white running shoes and sunglasses too. There was an icon of a man doing a high kick on the front. I had the whole thing made myself. It was completely fictitious. It was great to see people’s reactions. Even guys twice my size seemed to offer a bit of respect. I’ve done a lot of fashion stunts like this for fun. Ear pieces and sunglasses work well with dark suits. I think I’m always playing a role when I dress. If I dress up for a night out, I usually tell myself ‘look like a magician.’ I wear shiny, tight silk shirts and dark pants with shiny shoes. I even like to have a few magic tricks ready too. When it comes to day-to-day fashion, I want to be a blank canvas. To me, that means a black t-shirt and tan pants. I have a ridiculous number of black t-shirts and tan pants. This way I don’t have to waste brain power on deciding what to wear everyday. Einstein wore the same outfit everyday for this same reason too.

Art loves I like art that triggers something in a visceral way. When I visited the ruins of Luxor and Petra, for example, I had this experience. The people that carved out those worlds have long been dead. It’s all shrouded in so much mystery. It contains history, architectural function, religion, mythology, mysticism and so much speculation. Although I like modern and contemporary art too, I don’t think it can compete with that.

His work The pieces I’m making now come from this romantic idea of walking through these old, dead worlds but with a modern twist. For example, I’ve sculpted over one thousand identical, oragami-like heads out of paper. I have them displayed all in a row. It’s like a cross between Andy Warhol’s multiple prints of Marilyn Monroe and the terra-cotta warriors of Qin Shihuang. I have a series of painted wooden carvings that operate as a full-translatable cipher. Think of Louise Nevelson meets Egyptian Hieroglyphs meets a Hirst spot painting. I have large-scale oil paintings that resemble a cross between design schematics and altarpieces. All the pieces relate to each other as well. This creates a richer experience for me.

Top 10 inspirations Egyptology, The Wizard of Oz (1939 Film), Saturday Morning Cartoons from the ‘80s, Hermetic Orders, Religious Rituals, Joseph Campbell, The Human Animal (1972 Book by Hans Hass), Stonehenge, Rock Concerts, Magic.

Places to buy The covered markets of Morocco, Target and thrift stores. I usually don’t buy art. I barter and trade with my own work for friends’ work.

Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com

Working at Redmoon means I am in daily contact with artists from many disciplines and their artmaking, all of whom are working on objects, or costumes, or sculptures in line with the Redmoon aesthetic. That aesthetic is best described as a combination of handmade junkyard chic, urban fairytale fantasy and ephemeral collage, if that makes any sense. It does to me. Staples of this aesthetic diet are bird imagery, cranked components, steam punk mechanics and ‘50s artifacts. My personal style now incorporates a ton of this aesthetic. I rarely leave the house without butterfly or dragonfly or bird imagery featured somewhere on my clothing or incorporated into my jewelry. I love trinkets made of found objects and I love to layer collage somehow into my clothing. My favorite dress is a ‘50s inspired strapless cocktail piece, with blue cats all over it and large patch of the face of Willie Nelson sewn onto the skirt. That sums it up. Whenever possible I either wear red shoes or cowboy boots.

Art loves Contemporary British artists and ephemeral events, the more public the better. I love the installations that Tate Modern Curates at the Turbine Hall – The Weather Project was incredible, Carsten Holler’s slides were brilliant fun. I love the 4th plinth project in Trafalgar square, especially the Anthony Gormley project that has just been launched One and Other.

Top 10 inspirations Wizard of Oz, Columbo, Vivienne Westwood, Nick Cave (fashion) and Nick Cave (musician), nautical anything, cowgirl anything, Mia Farrow, Lady Soverign, Ireland.

Places to buy Best place to buy art is at a Redmoon raffle or Redmoon silent auction, next best place is the thrift store, better still, the flea market, or Portobello market in London, or Spittlefields market in London.


Click. For. Art. If you’re a fan of street art, graphics, typology and graffiti, then you probably have heard of ClickforArt.com. They stock limited-edition art prints and boxed canvas prints by artists from all over the world. Bring some urban edge to your home with pieces from the online boutique! It’s the home to some of the world’s most inspiring, emerging artists. This online gallery that doubles as a store is a place where new and established artists alike can sell their work to the general public. They have exhibitions, are present at big name trade shows, star in editorials of leading magazines and newspapers, and England’s coolest stores stock their art work. ClickforArt.com has also brought their art to interiors. Their collection of feather-filled cushions and floor pillows are constructed of super soft faux. The prints range from Manga-like to typology-led designs. - Chloé van der Wel

Wearable Art

Eggman by Adhemas Batista | ClickforArt.com

Modern Amusement is the California dream inspired by international art, music, technology and design, and known for a graphic sensibility and intelligent sense of humor. And now they launched a Jeremyville designed t-shirt as part of the well-known ‘Artist Series’ Wearable Art Collection. “Originality and pushing the boundaries is always something that has been important to me,” said the designer of Jeremyville about the collaboration. “It’s not for everybody, just those who really get it. I see a similarity with MA in that sense too and can definitely relate to it.” The Jeremyville t-shirt will be produced on black shirts with white graphic. It has a classic feel with a modern design, and features Jeremyville art with an air of ‘70s psychedelic imagery all within the Modern Amusement crow silhouette. And it can be yours for $50! The ‘Artist Series’ t-shirt will be available starting August 2009 at specialty boutiques and department stores worldwide. - Chloé van der Wel

Girl by Jules | ClickforArt.com

The Eight and American Modernisms

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Topkapital, 2008 | Oil on canvas, serigraphy | 35.85 x 63.83 inches, (91 x 162 cms) Image copyright Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Courtesy Paradise Row

This group of painters who worked in the early 1900s includes Robert Henri, Arthur B. Davies, Maurice Prendergast, Ernest Lawson, William Glackens, Everett Shinn, John French Sloan, and George Luks. The Eight became their unofficial title because of a 1908 show they organized in New York, which was their single exhibition together until now. Members of The Eight were extremely diverse in their subjects and painting styles. The Eight rebelled against traditional and academic artistic standards. They loved urban scenes and welcomed artistic freedom. Many of the members were illustrators or journalists who moved on to become fine art painters. The Eight and American Modernisms examine The Eight artists from 1908 to the end of their careers. Their artistic partnership has focused primarily on themes of urban scenes to the exploring of their artistic individuality. The Eight and American Modernisms shows that Robert Henri and his colleagues were “anti-realist” or expressionist, painting from memory and imagination. This exhibition can be seen at the Milwaukee Art Museum from June 6 to August 23. - Chloé van der Wel

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Yves Droite Yves Gauche, Diptych, 2008 | Oil on canvas | 18.52 X 13 inches each one, (47 X 33 cms) each one | Image copyright Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Courtesy Paradise Row

LogoArt High-end fashion is facing label and logo imprisonment. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is the artist responsible for the ingenious display that combines luxury labels inside the frames of western classical paintings. The Triumph of Sign exhibit is on display at London’s Paradise Row Gallery. The cunning artist uses reproductions from Chinese artists and overlays them with logos from high-end fashion houses like Gucci, Dior, and Louis Vuitton, as well as other well-known brands like Volkswagen and McDonald’s. Jean-Charles believes these small, yet powerful signage details are faces linked to our past and indefinite heroes of history. What a marvelous day to capture luxury labels and be revered with art collector status. -Jackie Medler

Robert Henri (American, 1865-1929), Betalo Nude, 1916. Oil on canvas, 41 x 33 in. Milwaukee Art Museum, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Donald B. Abert, M1972.24

Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com


Art Collector | editor-at-large paper magazine

Photo by Thomas Whiteside

Peter Davis

How has your work at Paper Magazine influenced your personal style? Being an editor and writer at Paper means I get to witness fashion and street style happen before most people do. I get first dibs, as they say, into designer’s minds. I’ve been introduced to so much talent through Paper, from Ruben and Isabel Toledo to Neckface. I started at Paper as a high school intern so I knew Isabel Toledo way before Michelle Obama made her super-duper famous. What kind of art are you most attracted to? Tell us about what you love about your recent purchases! I collect pop art and photography. Besides one by Helmut Newton, I only collect photojournalism. I love great fashion photography, but I don’t want an image of Kate Moss or Madonna on my wall. I have photographs by Larry Clark, Bruce Gilden, William Klein, Garry Winogrand, Martin Parr, Danny Lyon, Terry Richardson and some younger photographers too, like Justine Parsons and Alex Webb. I have three Cindy Shermans, which I treasure. Her Untitled Film Stills are my dream to hang on my walls. I covet my hot pink Warhol electric chair and Campbell’s soup can. I have a bunch of Edward Gorey prints and drawings that are amazing and macabre. I also love my Damien Hirst LSD print. I wish I had the dough for his formaldehyde shark tank. I crave everything by the Chapman Brothers. My most recent purchases were two Mike Mills prints from this great new design think tank/gallery called Partners & Spade at 40 Great Jones Street. I have some great found art from them too, like a photograph from the 1950s of three kids dressed as ghouls. It looks like a mini Diane Arbus. Meanwhile, framing that $15 snapshot cost way more than the photo. I want a real Arbus and a Weegee more than anything! Top 10 Inspirations My job: I’ve interviewed everyone from Gwen Stefani to Heidi Fleiss to Valentino to Shawn White. New York City: The best street style happens here. Travel: I’m a travel junkie. I just got back from Bombay. The colors there are literally electric. Pinks are pinker and the orange is almost day-glo.

Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com

Photography: I just bought a “real” camera, the latest Canon 5D. It’s huge. I secretly want to be the next Bill Cunningham. I want to capture real street style (not people dressed for parties). Fashion is an amazing document of what’s happening and the mood at that moment in the world. Andy Warhol: What’s great about Warhol is that he did everything from art to film to Interview magazine to TV. It’s inspiring when people try their hand at everything. Change is the best way to be creative. Japan: Tokyo is one of my favorite cities in the world. The style there is amazing from the over-the-top Harajuku kids to the business women in head to toe Comme des Garçons. The shopping (which is a sport in Japan), the electronic gadgets, sushi at Tsukiji fish market, it’s a true wonderland. Nightlife: New York is not about staying home. I stay at home at my place in Los Angeles. In New York, I’ll sometimes hit five or more openings and parties in one night. My job is to stay informed and being on the scene is the way to do that. My Tailor: Timothy Everest, who is in London, is a master. His eye is modern, with old school skills. I love bespoke clothes because no one will have on the same suit or jacket. If I could afford it, I’d have everything custom made, even my toothbrush. I recently had two pairs of sunglasses made at this amazing Optician. Music: I have almost 13,000 songs on my laptop. I come up with the best ideas while I listen to good music, whether it’s The Clash or Barry White or Kings of Leon. London: I worship London. It’s such a guy’s city style-wise. I’d love to find a reason to live there. Tell us your top places to buy art and fashion. Partners & Spade: My new favorite art/design spot in New York. New Image Art: The best gallery in Los Angeles. I scored my Neckface pieces there.Ron Herman/Fred Segal: My favorite store in America. I love Ron Herman’s Free City line and the buyers at Fred Segal whittle down every designer collection and only sell the best stuff. I go there every time I’m in L.A. Sportie LA: This is the spot for sneaker shopping. I collect sneakers and if I need a fix, I hit this frenzy of a store on Melrose Avenue. Artist’s Studios: The best way to collect art is to go straight to the source. -Melissa Maynard

Photos courtesy of Peter Davis

Cubism of Style About a century after Cubism peaked through the works of artists like Paul Cézanne, Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Wladimir Baranoff-Rossiné and George Braque, supermodels are strutting down fashion-capital catwalks in Cubist-abstract pants, tunics, blouses and skirts, echoing an avant-garde movement that was radical then, and sensational today. This creative revolution of the early 20th Century was based on the principle of subject matter being broken up, analyzed and reassembled in an abstracted form, and while its reign in the art world began to phase out in the early 1920s, it has nevertheless continued to evolve within other fields, including architecture, poetry and most relevantly, fashion. While it is not uncommon to find thematic parallels between artists and fashion designers of the past and present, this particular association is so dynamic, that its rebellious concept of reconstruction continues to adapt and, in turn, thrive, regardless of season and functionality. For spring/summer 2009 Tracy Reese embraced this movement with a collection that was both natural and girlish, combining Cubist-abstract pants and skirts with unabashedly feminine tops, some belted, some floral and some delicately wrapped. While Reese’s overall look stays true to the classic, ladylike nature of her designs – the ever so subtle touch of Cubism gives her an edge, staking her place as a top American designer and innovator, without compromising the dainty and approachable quality of her designs. For his fall/winter collection, Brazilian designer Alexandre Herchcovitch represented cubism in a way that was, by all accounts, bolder, brash and more masculine. While underlined by long black blazer dresses and pleated cropped trousers, it was highlighted with splashes of fragmented color, in softly tattered blouses and tunics and underscored with sequined and striped leggings. Piece by piece, only the patterned blouses, tunics and jackets might stand out as reminiscent of Cezanne or even Matisse, but overall, Herchcovitch’s outfits were the very embodiment of cubism: broken up, reassembled and ultimately exemplifying a multitude of viewpoints. Basso & Brooke rocked the London catwalk in what they describe as an “exploration of Louis XIV’s baroque and rococo.” While that influence was definitely felt in ornately sculpted high heels, gold accents, satin duchess gowns and silk jersey, the explosion of color and fantasy-like, abstract prints pointed forward to the Cubist-inspired 20th century. More specifically, the collection was reminiscent of the movement of Cubo-Futurism, which developed in Russia around 1913. Wladimir Baranoff-Rossiné, who was among the movement’s followers, seemed particularly present on the London catwalk this year, with Basso & Brooke’s colorful kaleidoscope prints baring an uncanny resemblance to Baranoff-Rossiné’s bright colors, geometric shapes and post-impressionist school-of-thought. Reese, Basso & Brooke and Herchcovitch are not the only designers who have dabbled in the artistic sphere of Cubism, Gianni Versace exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art with this very concept in mind in 1997 and as a compliment, Richard Martin, who curated the Met’s costume collection from 1993, until his death in 1999, wrote “Cubism and Fashion.” The book, published in 1999, paired fashion illustration and photography with the precepts of Cubist imagery and traced Cubism’s synergy with fashion throughout the 20th century. Obviously, it didn’t end there. -Georgia Bistolaridis


Basso and Brooke | Autumn/Winter 2009

Wladimir Baranoff-RossinÊ 1888-1944 | Title: Nu Cubiste (Cubist Nude), 1912, Huile sur toile (oil on canvas). 100 x 153 cm, Provenance famille de l’Artiste (Family Collection)

Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com


Still Life Photography | Jack Perno | jackperno.com Photographic Asst. /Digital Tech | JJ Jetel Producer | Lisa Fishering Hair | Cindy Adams for Timothy Priano/Steven Papageorge Academy Fashion Editor | Jesse Rodriguez Makeup | Cammy Kelly for Artists by Timothy Priano Model | Maddy Mcmullen | Elite Chicago Ikram 312.587.1000 Malabar Collections 773.321.6685 Calvin Tran 773.529.4070 Dress by Oscar de la Renta, Ikram

Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com


Black dress by Calvin Tran Bracelet by Ellie Thompson Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com


Silk organza halter by Lita Mortari, Claudia Kleiner Malabar Colllections | White shorts by Calvin Tran Pink Quartz necklace by chic gems, Claudia Kleiner Malabar Collections

Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com


Dress by Jean Paul Gaultier, Ikram

Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com


Black dress Comme des Garรงons, Ikram Black gold headband by Seed, Ikram Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com


Orange suit by Lanvin, Ikram Pearl necklace by Tom Binns, Ikram

Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com


Scents of Spring

The aroma of new green grass, blooming flowers and a warm mist before a storm bring the scents of spring. It’s a time of freshness, cleanliness and beauty. In order to get all those beautiful flowers, we do have to endure a few heavy rain showers. For those indoor days when you’re not feeling super floral, wear Thunderstorm by Demeter ($39.50). This unisex fragrance smells like a storm is brewing, but has a calming sensation as it fades. When we were looking for a bright and spring-friendly perfume, Marc Jacobs had just the thing. Grass ($65), is perfectly natural with light touches of snow peas and wildflowers, making it simple. You won’t need to pack the perfume with you for mid-day refresher sprays, it lasts for up to ten hours!

Another one that will last all day long is GapBody’s Washed Cotton ($34). This breezy scent of soft notes of floral and freshness is for our more feminine scent-seeker and will go perfectly with light linen pants on a casual day. So whatever spring brings your way, we have the scent for you. All fragrances available at FragranceNet.com. -Nora Silver

Rebecca Miller

Umbrelli

Keep your makeup in place and your locks frizz-free under the most artsy Umbrelli. Each limited edition model is the creation of an artist who stuck it out studying through Ticino rainy seasons, and graduated with great appreciation for Southern Switzerland, Italian beauty, and not to mention a great umbrella. Each Umbrelli covers grey skies with a scene from Italy, as well as a brass plate with your very own limited edition number. Each handcrafted piece is made of the finest materials and puts those “flip-out” worries at ease. The Umbrelli can be found at select boutiques and Neiman Marcus department stores across the country and are between $260-$425. Keep covered under the bright skies of Italy during drab April showers for years to come with this luxury accessory. -Jackie Medler Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com

of Shuella

Shuella is taking the world by storm. Encase your feet in these pretty “shoe umbrellas” on those pesky rainy days. Keep your fabulous, not to mention expensive footwear out of the rain and in mint condition. Driven by fashion frustrated rainy days and hectic city-lifestyle, Rebecca Miller developed Shuella in the form of fashionable function. The easy to pull-on, no-slip-soled, and conveniently portable footwear comes in hot pink, apple green, buttercup yellow, and classic black. Shuella’s are guaranteed to fit over any heel and come with a nice little cloth that makes it easy to wipe off the excess water. The University of Wisconsin fashion grad launched her rainy day idea into reality this past 2008. Shuella can be found at Nordstrom in Chicago, Zitomers in New York, and 26 stores in between London and Ireland including Harrod’s, House of Frasier, and Selfridge’s. shuella.com -Jackie Medler


Artist Nick Cave Photo by James Prinz

Art Chicago Art Chicago specializes in showcasing historic and current works from cutting-edge contemporary artists to modern masters. Art Chicago 2009 will be held May 1-4 at the Merchandise Mart in Chicago, with special preview opportunities on April 30. The international art affair annually brings together the world’s principal rising and reputable galleries to feature a broad spectrum of media that includes painting, photography, drawings, prints,

sculpture, video, and special installations. Art Chicago attracts prominent curators, gallerists, collectors, artists, and art enthusiasts from the art world during its five-day stay in the city. Tickets are available onsite and online, children 12 and

under are free. Opening previews and First Focus for Art Chicago will take place on April 30. First Focus, the exclusive premiere viewing of Art Chicago, will take place from 12pm-3pm and include complimentary food, drinks,

book signings, and admission to Art Chicago concurrent shows. Tickets are $150. Invitation only, professional preview opportunities will take place from 3pm-6pm, and the official Art Chicago opening preview will follow from 6pm-9pm. The $40 tickets for the evening will benefit the Museum of Contemporary Art, Chicago. -Jackie Medler

CORZO

, the luxury tequila, is updating America’s favorite cocktail with the help of four of the country’s best mixologists. Pulling from classic and contemporary inspirations Chicagoan Adam Segar along with Dale DeGroff, Junior Merino and Andy Seymour have created a series of Modern Margarita recipes using CORZO, the only tequila that double ages and triple distills for exceptional smoothness and flavor. Adam Segar, culinary-mixologist and sommelier at Chicago’s Nacional 27, added pepper to the salt rim to create the CORZO MODERNITA: 2 Parts Corzo Anejo 1 Part Agave Nectar Juice and Zest of 1 Lime Zest of 1/2 lemon Shake and strain into a kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper rimmed martini glass. Garnish with a sprig of fresh rosemary.

fig Media

Looking for something out of the ordinary for your event? Then fig media is the company for you. Fig provides deejay, video and photo services that are sophisticated and creative: Deejays that read your crowd and play great music, documentary-style photography and videography that is candid, jive-tastic, progressive and passionate, so good it will make you pass out – narrative style art that tells great stories. Visit www.figgy.net to learn more or contact info@figgy.net to set up an appointment. Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com


Photos courtesy of Redmoon Theater

Dark.Light.Scream.Love. all in that order only at Carnaval! The 6th Annual Carnaval was presented by Collaboraction on March 28th, at West Grand Studios. The theatrically engrossed evening marked the official launch party of the 9th Annual SKETCHBOOK Festival that featured the works of over more than 50 artists. The acclaimed dark-to-light night started in a tenebrous environment inspired the visual art of Edvard Munch, and broke into a bright and sexy bash of performance, ritual, music, and dance. Choice musical guests included Atomica Project, Helen Money, DJ LA Jesus, Darren Spitzer of The Changes, JQ of the Q Brothers, Dark Wave Disco Djs and Collaboraction Company Members Miles Polaski and Anacron Allen. Collaboraction’s will evolve its 9th Annual SKETCHBOOK Festival into the Building Stage from April 16-May 10, 2009. For more information about SKETCHBOOK visit collaboraction.org. -Jackie Medler

Rebecca Mesabb and Michael Clark

Redmoon’s Spectacle

Rodrigo Mireles

Photos courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Stephen Sprouse Rocks On

No one puts on such a delightfully strange party as Redmoon Theater’s Spectacle Lunatique benefit. The bizarre and bombastic occasion successfully entertained over 500 guests with enchanting performances, ingenious mechanical creations, and unique site installations. Lunatique transformed their industrial space “Redmoon Central” with a focus on spectacle-making and merriment in mind. Party planner extraordinaire and theater director Frank Maugeri paired with associate artistic director Vanessa Stalling built their crazy cohesive look through a series of images and visuals that took eight weeks of planning and a whooping six weeks of groundwork. The result regarded defying displays of the ingenious planning. In order to promote past and (lucky us!) future productions, performers roamed the space dressed in precedent play costumes and even previewed visuals for shows to come! Peculiar and out-of-the-ordinary sights included appetizers served out of suitcases, pregnant papier-mâché bellies that opened to expose puppet-shows, whooshing fake clouds and airplanes, schools of ornate fish puppets, decadent mask-wearing performers, and illuminated white peacock headdresses. Spectacle Lunatique took place on the evening of March 13, 2009 – Friday the 13th, how appropriate – and annually takes place in order to raise funds for the Redmoon Theater located in Chicago at 1463 West Hubbard Street. -Jackie Medler Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com

Photo by lan Rovge

Collaboraction’s Carnaval

Louis Vuitton is reliving ‘the rock’ that Stephen Sprouse brought throughout his time. Inspired by the famous designer, Louis Vuitton created a collection that says“rock still lives on”. The Louis Vuitton store on Michigan Ave. hosted a cocktail party that introduced the new Stephen Sprouse tribute collection. The collection features all-time favorites graffiti and the rose motif, both that represent the legacy of Stephen Sprouse. Admiring LV’s new collection wasn’t the only luxury guests were pampered with, they also were able to see Rodrigo Mireles aka SOLO, who was the artist creating the graffiti piece during the event. Along with the introduction of Louis Vuitton’s tribute collection, the event also gave support to The School of the Art Institute of Chicago. -Katie Davidson


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photo by Jeremy Lawson

Tim Reilly, Melissa Hadhazy, Andrew Osvalds and Jeff Corney

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Winter Issue Launch Party The snow hit the ground once again, just in time for the Factio winter issue launch party held on February 19th. The subtle evening set by candlelight in the Versailles-esque Crimson Lounge focused around the latest issue launch. Put on by Maven’s weekly event, The Diva Series, they celebrated with host Melissa Maynard, Factio’s editor-in-chief and those featured in the latest issue, including jewelry designer Dana Levy, marketing exec Meghan Goulette, interior designer Michelle Williams, and socialite and blogger Candace Jordan. Guests gathered in intimate corners and velvet booths to catch up with each other and the latest home/style fashions from Factio. Bubbly champagne and rich wines poured glass after glass as guests celebrated through the night. -Jackie Medler

Model Boot Camp Elite Model Management is one of the biggest names in the modeling industry and they had a reason to celebrate recently! After Elite’s annual ‘model boot camp,’ the agency’s new faces were ready to hit the runway. And, they had beautiful wooden décor to do exactly that at Manor’s exclusive VIP lounge, Stay. The newly-signed models walked a fashion show in front of clients including Factio Magazine, Runway To Retail, Seventeen Magazine, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and more. Special guests included Mckey Sullivan (ANTM 2008 Winner) and Nichole Robinson, who are both part of the Elite family. The dresses shown were by none other than Chicago designer Elise Bergman. The beautifully crafted clothing was executed in a natural light palette with a-symmetric hemlines and the dropped waistlines we love in spring fashion. Jewelry worn was designed by Asia. Congratulations girls! - Chloé van der Wel

Carrie Lannon and Steve Traxler

Howard Tullma, Chris Kennedy and Helyn Goldenberg

Kasia Koniar

Steppenwolf’s annual gala On April 20th, about 550 guests attended Steppenwolf’s annual gala, raising over $1 million for the theater company. This year’s gala gave an ode to urban chic and began with a sampling of scenes from The Tempest, Steppenwolf’s latest play directed by Tina Landau, an ensemble member. Following the show, guests traveled to the tent with a tour backstage, giving party goers the opportunity to experience a behind-the-scenes look at the company. Once inside the transformed tent (usually Steppenwolf’s parking lot), the elaborate décor of Heffernan Morgan included comfy lounges and communal dining tables, while large projections of past performances hung from the ceiling. Guests enjoyed dinner from Limelight catering, and a performance by Gary Sinise and the Lt. Dan Band.

Art Chicago Kicks Off

Chicago collectors, curators, and gallerists were exclusively celebrated at the Art Chicago and NEXT 2009 kick-off commemoration. The arty night in March was hosted by B&B Italia’s Maxalto showroom. Guests from the Members of the Museum of Contemporary Art Women’s Board, Verge and the Art Institute of Chicago Evening Associates were privy to upcoming artworks to be displayed at Art Chicago and NEXT 2009. Gazing art viewers were also welcome to an assortment of hors d’oeuvres and fine wine offered throughout the Maxalto showroom.

Noteworthy honorees included collectors Howard Tullman, Ellen Sandor, and Jefferson Godard; MCA development director Lisa Keys, Executive Director of Hyde Park Art Center Lynn Warren, Merchandise Mart President Chris Kennedy, Vice President of MMPI Arts and co-founder of The Armory Show, New York Paul Morris, and Richard Wright of Wright Auction House; artists Juan Angel Sanchez and DuHuang Zhou. -Jackie Medler

Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com


Buckminster Fuller: Starting with the Universe

It was a night of celebration as the Museum of Contemporary Art opened its doors for a fundraising event in honor of their new spring exhibition, Buckminster Fuller: Starting with the Universe. The glamorous event was spread over three of the museum floors and the proceeds directly supported MCA programs. Every floor was filled with interesting people, laughs and cocktails. The ground floor provided us with screen films about Fuller throughout the evening, introduced by exhibition curators Michael Hays and Dana Miller, and Elizabeth Smith, the MCA’s Chief Curator & Deputy Director for Programs. On the main floor the extravagant crowd listened to the sounds of the Josh Berman Trio and DJ Madrid while they enjoyed the superb hors d’oeuvres and drinks catered by Wolfgang Puck. The mix of the best hot dogs ever and the specialty champagne cocktail topped off the night. The fourth floor brought us the exciting exhibition itself. Fuller’s view was that the earth’s resources were dying out. He wanted to minimize resource consumption while maximizing quality of life and never forgot that his constructions affected the lives of individuals. He was also very concerned about the accessibility of ideas. He stated that if science wasn’t easy to understand to a child, it was in danger of being misunderstood everywhere. He rewrote “Goldilocks & The Three Bears” to use as a physics demonstration.

Photo courtesy of the MCA

The exhibition shows Fuller’s drawings, scale models, photographs, and letters to and from friends. His drawings highlight him mixing art and design. Looking at the 4D progress from sketch to logo make us understand his mind a little more. The footage of Fuller talking about his work helps too, because end products are only traces of the genius mind that produced them and now we’re getting more of an inside look.

Isaac’s Liz

Matthew Williamson let his artistic juices flow for H&M. The sequin dress has a painted landscape that makes you fit right in at any art party or gallery exhibition. Dress $249, Belt $49.90 at H & M, Michigan Ave., Chicago

Factio Magazine Spring 2009 | factio-magazine.com

On April 3rd, designer Isaac Mizrahi came to Chicago for not one, but two personal appearances to kick-off his new spring collection with Liz Claiborne. CS Magazine threw a bash with Carson Pirie Scott that was held at the swank Ivy Room at Tree Studios that night for about 300 socialites, media and fashion lovers. Guests sipped on YES vodka specialty cocktails and passed hors d’oeuvres from Limelight Catering while listening to a 15-minute Oprah-style Q & A between Mizrahi and Kostic. Models lined the room in fresh spring floral dresses paired with bright cardigan sweaters, dainty flats, and slim jeans punched up with bright jackets. Isaac took some time to talk with us before the party about the new image of Liz, his best memories of Chicago, how he’s really a slob and so over India (to his boyfriend’s dismay!). The next day, Mizrahi headed to Yorktown Shopping Center in the suburbs to meet his fashion fans for an appearance at Carson’s before heading back to New York. -Melissa Maynard

Tim Gunn | Photo by Alicia Nieto

Isaac Mizrahi and D. Graham Kostic | Photo by Fig Media

Fuller’s view on individuals and his concern for the future of our planet show us the kind of person we need to solve our world’s continuing problems. You can visit this eye-opening exhibition through June 21st. - Chloé van der Wel

Tim Gunn’s Chicago appearance was the talk of the town this spring. The Liz Claiborne Chief Creative Officer paid a visit to the Claiborne owned Kate Spade boutique at 56 E. Oak Street on April 16. Guests and shoppers gathered for one-on-one accessorizing discussions with the style stud. Tim Gunn’s fashion sense is really something to take to heart. Aside from his Claiborne position he works as the Project Runway series mentor, working his way up from his start as an off-camera consultant for the show. Keep an eye out for the style guru next month, when he returns to our fabulous city for Project Runway Season 7 auditions. -Jackie Medler


THE ILLINOIS INSTITUTE OF ART–CHICAGO OFFERING DEGREE PROGRAMS IN: Fashion Design Fashion Merchandising Fashion Marketing & Management Advertising Culinary Arts Culinary Management Di Digital Filmmaking & Video Production Game Art & Design Hospitality Management Interior Design Media Arts & Animation Professional Baking & Pastry Professional Cooking Visual Communications Visual Effects & Motion Graphics Web Design & Interactive Media

Design from the FAME 2009 student show by student designer, Danielle Wyman

350 North Orleans Street, Chicago, IL 60654 800.351.3450 • www.artinstitutes.edu/chicago


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