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Twelve patterns celebrating ten fabulous years of Loop London

Susan Cropper


Published in 2015 in Great Britain by Susan Cropper, Loop. Copyright Susan Cropper, Loop Knitting Ltd. 15 Camden Passage, Islington, London N1 8EA, England www.loopknitting.com ISBN: 978-0-9570128-2-0 A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from The British Library Printed in London by Heron Dawson & Sawyer 2


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A celebration of ten years of Loop, London in England. With incredible contributions from wonderful designers and yarn companies from around the world. We hope you enjoy your knitting!

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Contents Meandering Shawl by Stephen West

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Islington Shawl by Kirstin Kapur

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Silene Cardigan by Pam Allen

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Bunty Baby & Toddler Cardigan by Donna Higgins

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Sprinkle Cardigan by Juju Vail

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Wreath Shawl by Meghan Fernandes

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Isokon Mitts by Ysolda Teague

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Arkell Scarf by Rachel Atkinson

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Rosemaling Mitts by Tif Fussell (Dottie Angel)

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Whimsy Garlands by Rachel Atkinson

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Autumn Leaves Shawl by Paulina Popiolek

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Sweetie Pie Capelet by Claire Montgomerie

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Knitting abbreviations & terms

140

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Julie Arkell for Loop. ‘Growing up with Wool’, with a selection of the 12 bespoke yarns in the wool carriage.

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My dream of a gorgeous knitting shop in London which, starting as a small idea, and with a lot of passion and hard graft, has grown into a big, inspiring shop housed in a beautiful building on charming Camden Passage. Loop started off in a little shop on Cross Street in Islington. Though small, we were packed to the rafters with the most wonderful yarns we could find from around the world. In 2005 the knitting world was exploding and there was nowhere in my adopted city where I could find the new artisan hand-dyes or stylish new patterns that were beginning to emerge. As a knitter and art director I craved two other things – a place to learn more advanced forms of knitting and a place that showcased exquisite creations of people working with textiles. Loop was born from all of those wishes – to house all of this under one roof and offer great support to knitters and crocheters.

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After five years we were bursting from the seams and I realised we had to find much bigger premises. My heart raced one day as I walked along nearby Camden Passage and spotted an old antique shop for rent. As I peered through the window my mind delighted in envisioning Loop in this incredible building. Four floors and loads of windows - space for workshops, a stockroom and two whole floors for yarn! By the time I had walked back to Cross Street, in my mind, the building was already gutted, new wood floors laid down and vintage lighting fixtures were hanging from the high ceilings. In 2010 we moved Loop to Camden Passage next to the antique markets and ice cream parlours. It was a heady time and our opening day in the new shop will remain one of the best and most emotional days of my life. With family flying in from around the world joining in to help us get ready; I will always remember my dad coming back from a last minute errand and saying “Hey, you know, there’s quite a crowd out there”. When I peeked out the door there were over 150 people waiting (my astonished builder counted them!). When we took the paper off the windows and opened the doors a great cheer went up outside and I burst into tears of happiness.


My passion for sourcing beautiful and unique yarns, and discovering talented designers from all over the world, has never faded and still brings me incredible joy. What an honour these past 10 years have been.

None of this would have been possible without the talented people I have met along the way that have contributed in so many ways to make Loop what it is today. From the indie dyers and yarn companies that make our beautiful yarns (those represented here as well as many others in the shop), the makers that create exquisite things for us to stock from all over the world, our wonderful customers from near and far, my staff who I am blessed with for their own passion and genuine interest in the craft, to our web designer and the designers who create incredible patterns for us all. They are all testament to the love of knitting and fibre arts and the joy that it brings to our lives: from the ‘ooh’ factor of holding a gorgeous skein of yarn in their hands to the excitement of casting on a new project. Loop has been such a little hotbed of creativity over these past 10 years. Loopettes have gone on to do some incredible things within the knitting and crochet community – they have become editors, knitwear designers, launched their own publications, created their own crafting business and become some of the very best teachers around.

I am glad that I trusted my instincts over the years to see something special in people that become part of Loop and what they brought to the shop, beyond selling the yarns – it is their authentic passion for the craft and materials. I feel very honoured that they have stopped along their journey for a time to be part of Loop and then be inspired to make something their own, whatever it is. If I have had even the smallest part to play in their success I am incredibly proud. I am hugely grateful to our customers over the years that have supported us and cheered us on with their unbound enthusiasm. Heartfelt thanks.

From far left: The original Cross Street shop, moving into the Camden Passage shop with family, Meghan Fernandes and Juju Vail helping get it all ready, hanging the sign, figuring out our first window display and our opening day in the new location. 11


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MADELINETOSH ‘LONDON COSMOPOLITAN’ WITH ORKNEY ANGORA ‘GHOST’ After declaring brioche the stitch of the year, it’s no surprise that Stephen West’s contribution is an homage to just that. Letting the naturally impressive stitch take centre stage, the shape is kept simple with zigzag increases and a scalloped edge.

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Stephen is also an advocate of mixing different fibres and weights of yarn so ‘Meandering’ juxtaposes the slick single ply of Madelinetosh Merino Light with the fuzzy halo of Orkney Angora. The result is a plush, feminine and reversible beauty.


Meandering By Stephen West

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SIZE One size: 71cm (28in) down centre spine x 168cm (66in) wide YARN Dark Colour (DC): Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light (4ply/ fingering weight; 100% superwash merino wool; 384m / 420yds per 100g skein) Shade: London Cosmopolitan x 1 skein Light Colour (LC): Orkney Angora St. Magnus DK (DK/ light worsted weight; 50% lambswool, 50% angora; 199m / 218yds per 50g ball) Shade: Ghost x 2 balls NEEDLES & NOTIONS 3.5mm (UK 9/US 4) circular needle, 100cm (40in) length 4.5mm (UK 7/US 7) knitting needle for cast on and cast off 4.5mm (UK 7/US G/H) crochet hook for provisional cast-on Smooth waste yarn for provisional cast-on Stitch markers Tapestry needle TENSION 15 sts and 28 rows to 10cm (4in) over two-colour brioche stitch on 3.5mm needle after blocking. Note: Only the knit stitches, not the yarn overs, are counted when checking tension. Take time to check your tension and adjust the needle size as necessary to ensure an accurate finish. For those of you new to two-colour brioche knitting, and for the tension swatch, we highly recommend using the following basic two-colour brioche instructions to practice and check tension against before starting the pattern: Using the Two-Colour method, very loosely cast on 35 sts as follows: Tie both yarns together - remove the knot after working a few rows. Tie a slip knot in the dark colour (DC) and slide the slip knot onto the left-hand needle. Step 1: Knit into DC slip knot with light colour (LC), leaving the stitch on left needle. Place new stitch onto left needle by slipping it knit-wise. Step 2: Bring DC from behind and knit into gap between last 2 sts on left needle with DC (as per cable cast-on method). 16

Step 3: Place new knitted stitch on left needle by slipping it knit-wise. Working with LC next, then alternating DC and LC, rep from step 2 until 45 sts are cast on. The first and last stitch should be with DC.Change to the smaller working needle and continue as follows: Set-Up Row 1 (RS DC): [K1, sl1yo] to last st, k1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Set-Up Row 1 (RS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, yf, [brp1, sl1yo] to last 2 sts, brp1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn work. Set-Up Row 2 (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, [brp1, sl1yo] to last st, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Set-Up Row 2 (WS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, [brk1, sl1yo] to last 2 sts, brk1, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work. Row 1 (RS DC): K1, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] to last st, k1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Row 1 (RS LC): LC is hanging in front, sl1, [brp1, sl1yo] to last 2 sts, brp1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn Work. Row 2 (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, [brp1, sl1yo] to last st, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour.


Row 2 (WS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, [brk1, sl1yo] to last 2 sts, brk1, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until work measures approximately 15cm (6in) and you feel confident working two-colour brioche. Place all sts on a length of waste yarn and block. PATTERN NOTES • In two-colour brioche stitch, two rows are worked for each counted row that appears on the face of the fabric. The first colour is worked across the row and then the row is worked again using the second colour. The next row is worked the same way, once across with the first colour and worked again with the second colour. • When counting rows, count only the stitches going up on a knit column. For example, when you work 4 rows, count 4 knit column stitches, even though you will have worked 8 rows back and forth. Two worked rows = One counted row. • Should you forget which colour you used last and which colour you need to use next, look at the colour of the yo in the row just worked – this is the colour you worked with last. • This shawl uses a dark colour (DC) and light colour (LC) yarn. The RS features the DC and the WS features the LC which is noted in each row header. • All slip stitches are slipped purl-wise. • For more information on brioche knitting, Stephen recommends Nancy Marchant’s books and online classes in addition to his own tutorial videos. • The following numbers are the total stitches increased in each section and will be helpful for reference: Stitch count Stitch count after first set of after first increases repeat of increases End of SECTION 1 (5 increase rows) SECTION 2, end of row 12 (6 increase rows) End of SECTION 2 (7 increase rows)

Stitch count after second repeat of increases

Stitch count after third repeat of increases

57

129

201

273

93

165

237

309

99

171

243

N/A

BRIOCHE STITCH ABBREVIATIONS brk Brioche knit referred to as ‘bark’: Knit the stitch that was slipped in the previous row together with its yarn over. brkyobrk Brioche increase: Brk1 (leave stitch on the needle), yo, brk1 into same stitch. 2 sts increased brp Brioche purl referred to as ‘burp’: Purl the stitch that was slipped in previous row together with its yarn over. brLsldec Left-slanting 2-stitch decrease: Slip the first stitch knitwise, brk the following two stitches together, pass slipped stitch over. DC Dark colour yarn LC Light colour yarn sl1yo Slip 1 yarn over following a k or brk st: Bring the working yarn under the needle to the front of work, slip next stitch purl-wise, then bring yarn over the needle (and over the slipped stitch) to the back, in position to work the following stitch. Slip 1 yarn over following a p or brp st: Working yarn is already in front, slip next stitch purlwise, bring the yarn over the needle (and over the slipped stitch), then to front under the needle, into position to work the following stitch. yf Yarn forward: Bring yarn between the needles to the front of work.

PATTERN BEGINS Please read all the pattern notes before starting! BRIOCHE GARTER TAB SET-UP Using a provisional method and waste yarn, cast 9 sts onto larger needle. Work [k1 with DC, k1, with LC) to last st, k1 with DC. Change to smaller working needle. Set-up row 1 (RS DC): [K1, sl1yo] 4 times, k1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Set-up row 1 (RS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, yf, [brp1, sl1yo] 3 times, brp1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn work. 17


Set-up row 2 (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, (brp1, sl1yo) 3 times, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Set-up row 2 (WS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, [brk1, sl1yo] 3 times, brk1, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work.

Next row (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, [brp1, sl1yo] to last st, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Next row (WS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, brk1, [sl1yo, brk1] to last st, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work.

Set-up row 3 (RS DC): K1, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 3 times, k1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Set-up row 3 (RS LC): LC is hanging in front, sl1, [brp1, sl1yo] 3 times, brp1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn work.

SECTION 1 In the following rows, slip the stitch markers as you come to them. Row 1 (RS DC): K1, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 3 times, SM, brkyobrk, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] to 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, SM, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] to 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, SM, [sl1yo, brk1] 3 times, sl1yo, k1. Do not turn. Slide stitches to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. 6 sts inc Note: In the next RS row only with LC, work the yo st from each brkyobrk as p1 instead of a brp1. Row 1 (RS LC): LC is hanging in front, sl1, [brp1, sl1yo] to last 2 sts, brp1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn work.

Set-up row 4 (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, [brp1, sl1yo] 3 times, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Set-up row 4 (WS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, [brk1, sl1yo] 3 times, brk1, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work. Repeat Row 3 with DC once more. Do not turn work. Rotate rectangle to look at the DC selvedge. Using DC, pick up and k3 sts along DC selvedge. Unzip provisional cast-on and place stitches on needle. With DC work [k1, sl1yo] to last st, k1. Do not turn work. Slide stitches to work the RS with LC. 21 sts Next row (RS LC): LC is hanging in front, sl1, [brp1, sl1yo] 4 times, [p1, sl1yo] 5 times, p1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn to work WS. Next row (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, [brp1, sl1yo] 9 times, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Next row (WS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, [brk1, sl1yo] 9 times, brk1, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work. Next row (RS DC): K1, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 3 times, PM, brkyobrk, sl1yo, brkyobrk, PM, sl1yo, brkyobrk, PM, [sl1yo, brk1] 3 times, sl1yo, k1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. 27 sts Note: In the next RS row only with LC, work the yo st from each brkyobrk as p1 instead of a brp1. Next row (RS LC): LC is hanging in front, sl1, [brp1, sl1yo] to last 2 sts, brp1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn work. 18

Row 2 (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, [brp1, sl1yo] to last st, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Row 2 (WS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, brk1, [sl1yo, brk1] to last st, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work. Rep Rows 1 and 2 with DC and LC as set a further 4 more times. 57 sts Note: Each SECTION 1 has 5 inc rows x 6 inc sts = 30 sts SECTION 2 The centre stitch marker is repositioned in the next row. Row 1 (RS DC): K1, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 3 times, SM, brkyobrk, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] to 3 sts before marker, PM, brkyobrk, sl1yo, brk1, remove marker, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] to 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, SM, [sl1yo, brk1] 3 times, sl1yo, k1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. 6 sts inc Row 1 (RS LC): LC is hanging in front, sl1, [brp1, sl1yo] to last 2 sts, brp1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn work.


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Row 2 (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, [brp1, sl1yo] to last st, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Row 2 WS LC: LC is hanging in back, sl1, brk1, (sl1yo, brk1) to last st, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work. Row 3 (RS DC): K1, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 3 times, SM, brkyobrk, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] to marker, SM, brkyobrk, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] to 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, SM, (sl1yo, brk1) 3 times, sl1yo, k1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. 6 sts inc Row 3 (RS LC): LC is hanging in front, sl1, (brp1, sl1yo) to last 2 sts, brp1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn work. Row 4 (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, [brp1, sl1yo] to last st, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Row 4 (WS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, brk1, [sl1yo, brk1] to last st, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work. Rows 5-12: Rep Rows 3 and 4 with DC and LC as set a further 4 more times. 93 sts The centre stitch marker is repositioned in the next row. Row 13 (RS DC): K1, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 3 times, SM, brkyobrk, sl1yo, (brk1, sl1yo) to marker, remove marker, brkyobrk, PM, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] to 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, SM, [sl1yo, brk1] 3 times, sl1yo, k1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. 6 sts inc Row 13 (RS LC): LC is hanging in front, sl1, [brp1, sl1yo] to last 2 sts, brp1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn work. Row 14 (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, [brp1, sl1yo] to last st, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Row 14 (WS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, brk1, [sl1yo, brk1] to last st, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work. Note: Each SECTION 2 has 7 inc rows x 6 inc sts = 42 sts

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Work SECTION 1 and SECTION 2 a further 3 more times but DO NOT work rows 13 and 14 in the final SECTION 2 repeat. 309 sts BORDER Row 1 (RS DC): K1, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 3 times, SM, brkyobrk, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 5 times, *brkyobrk, PM, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 7 times, brLsldec, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 6 times; rep from * 3 more times, remove marker, brkyobrk, PM, **sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 7 times, brLsldec, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 6 times, brkyobrk, PM; rep from ** 3 more times, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 11 times, brkyobrk, SM, [sl1yo, brk1] 3 times, sl1yo, k1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. 315 sts In the following rows, slip the stitch markers as you come to them. Row 1 (RS LC): LC is hanging in front, sl1, [brp1, sl1yo] to last 2 sts, brp1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn work. Row 2 (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, [brp1, sl1yo] to last st, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. Row 2 (WS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, brk1, [sl1yo, brk1] to last st, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work. Row 3 (RS DC): K1, sl1 yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 3 times, SM, brkyobrk, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] to 1 st before marker, *brkyobrk, SM, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 7 times, brLsldec, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 6 times; rep from * 3 more times, brkyobrk, SM, **sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 7 times, brLsldec, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] 6 times, brkyobrk, SM; rep from ** 3 more times, sl1yo, [brk1, sl1yo] to 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, SM, [sl1yo, brk1] 3 times, sl1yo, k1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour. 6 sts inc Row 3 (RS LC): LC is hanging in front, sl1, [brp1, sl1yo] to last 2 sts, brp1, drop LC to front, sl last st. Turn work. Row 4 (WS DC): P1, sl1yo, [brp1, sl1yo] to last st, p1. Do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of the needle ready to work the same row with the other colour.


Row 4 (WS LC): LC is hanging in back, sl1, brk1, (sl1yo, brk1) to last st, drop LC to back, sl last st. Turn work.

3 more times, k1, [brk1, k1] to 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, SM, [k1, brk1] 3 times, k2. Turn work. 357 sts

Rep Rows 3 and 4 with DC & LC as set a further 5 times. Break LC. 351 sts

Work an i-cord cast off on the following WS row with DC and larger needle as follows: Using the cable cast-on method, cast on 3 sts, *k2, k2togtbl, sl 3 sts to LH needle; rep from * until all sts are cast off. Break yarn and pull it through the 3 remaining sts.

Next row (RS DC): K2, [brk1, k1] 3 times, SM, brkyobrk, k1, [brk1, k1] to 1 st before marker, *brkyobrk, SM, k1, [brk1, k1] 7 times, brLsldec, k1, [brk1, k1] 6 times; rep from * 3 more times, brkyobrk, SM, **k1, [brk1, k1] 7 times, brLsldec, k1, [brk1, k1] 6 times, brkyobrk, SM; rep from **

FINISHING Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements.

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DYE FOR YARN ‘GOLDEN BEEHIVE’ A lover of two-colour shawls, Kirsten’s pattern plays with contrast, pairing intricate stitches with bold stripes. Stars peep from a blanket of garter stitch, and diamond lace cascades down to meet a wave of crochet edging for a beautiful mix of texture and colour.

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The definition of DyeForYarn’s merino silk lends itself to the detailed stitches and the soft drape ensures an elegant wrap. ‘Golden Beehive’ can be paired with rich teals, pale violets or as we have, a dark plum for a sophisticated shawl.


Islington By Kirsten Kapur

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SIZE One size: 160cm (63in) wide x 63.5cm (25in) deep YARN DyeForYarn Merino Silk Fingering (4ply/fingering weight; 75% superwash merino wool, 25% mulberry silk; 400m / 437yds per 100g skein) Shades: MC: Bat in a Dark Mood x 1 skein; CC: Golden Beehive x 1 skein NEEDLES & NOTIONS Smooth waste yarn for provisional cast on 4mm (UK 8/US 6) circular needle, 100cm (40in) length 3.5mm (UK 9/US E/4) crochet hook for provisional cast on and chain cast off Locking stitch marker Tapestry needle TENSION 22 sts and 28 rows to 10cm (4in) over garter st on 4mm needle after blocking. Take time to check your tension and adjust the needle size as necessary to ensure an accurate finish. PATTERN NOTES • This two-colour shawl begins at the top edge with a garter tab cast on. Stitches are picked up and knit along the edge of the garter tab and the shawl is then worked downward. • When alternating colours every two rows it is not necessary to cut the yarn – simply carry the yarns loosely up the side. SPECIAL STITCHES Cluster 3 into 3: P3tog without dropping sts from left needle, yo, purl same 3 sts together again, drop those 3 sts from left needle. 3 new sts made from 3 sts PATTERN BEGINS GARTER TAB CAST ON Using MC, and a provisional method, cast on 2 sts. Knit 8 rows but do not turn on the last row. Rotate the work 90 degrees, pick up and k1 st in each of the 4 garter ridges. Rotate work another 90 degrees, unzip provisional cast-on and knit the 2 live sts. 8 sts 24

MAIN BODY Note: Place a locking stitch marker on the RS of the fabric to keep track of the RS and WS of the shawl. Row 1 (RS): Using MC, knit. Row 2 (WS): K3, [yo, k1] 3 times, k2. 11 sts Row 3: Knit Row 4: Knit. Row 5: K3, [yo, k1] to last 2 sts, k2. 17 sts Work 4 rows in G-st. Row 10: K3, [yo, k1] to last 2 sts, k2. 29 sts Work 8 rows in G-st. Row 19: K3, [yo, k1] to last 2 sts, k2. 53 sts Work 16 rows in G-st. Row 36: K3, [yo, k1] to last 2 sts, k2. 101 sts Work 14 rows in G-st. FIRST STAR SECTION Join CC and reading from the Chart or Written Instructions, work Rows 1-8 of Star Pattern twice (16 pattern rows in total). Note: Work Rows 3 and 7 of the Star pattern loosely to make it easier to work the 3 stitches together on the following rows. Break CC leaving a tail long enough to weave in. Continue in MC only and work 2 rows in G-st. Next row: K3, [yo, k1] to last 2 sts, k2. 197 sts Work 29 rows in G-st. SECOND STAR SECTION Rejoin CC and work Rows 1-8 of Star Pattern 4 times (32 pattern rows in total) leaving CC joined after last row and carrying it loosely up the side. Using MC, work 2 rows in G-st. SET-UP FOR BORDER Row 1 (RS): Using CC, knit. Row 2 (WS): Using CC, k3, [yo, k1] to last 2 sts, k2. 389 sts Using MC, work 2 rows in G-st. Break MC, leaving a tail long enough to weave in. BORDER Continue in CC only and reading from the Chart or Written Instructions, work Rows 1-20 of Border pattern twice (40 pattern rows in total). Break CC, leaving a tail long enough to weave in. Rejoin MC, and work 8 rows in G-st.


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CHARTS – WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS Star Pattern Row 1 (RS): Using MC, knit. Row 2 (WS): Using MC, knit. Row 3: Using CC, k2, [sl1 pwise wyib, k3] to last 3 sts, sl1 pwise wyib, k2. Row 4: Using CC, k2, sl1 pwise wyif, [cluster 3 into 3, sl1 pwise wyif] to last 2 sts, k2. Row 5: Using MC, knit. Row 6: Using MC, knit. Row 7: Using CC, k4, [sl1 pwise wyib, k3] to last 5 sts, sl1 pwise wyib, k4. Row 8: Using CC, k2, p2, sl1 pwise wyif, [cluster 3 into 3, sl1 pwise wyif] to last 4 sts, p2, k2. Border Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, ssk, k3, [k4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3] to last 9 sts, k4, k2tog, yo, k3. Row 2 (WS and all following WS rows): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.

Star Pattern

Row 3: K4, yo, ssk, k2, [k3, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2] to last 9 sts, k3, k2tog, yo, k4. Row 5: K5, yo, ssk, k1, [k2, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k1] to last 9 sts, k2, k2tog, yo, k5. Row 7: K3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, [k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk] to last 3 sts, k3. Row 9: K2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, [sk2po, yo, k3, yo] to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. Row 11: K6, k2tog, yo, [k1, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo] to last 9 sts, k1, yo, ssk, k6. Row 13: K5, k2tog, yo, k1, [k2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1] to last 9 sts, k2, yo, ssk, k5. Row 15: K4, k2tog, yo, k2, [k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k2] to last 9 sts, k3, yo, ssk, k4. Row 17: K3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, [k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk] to last 3 sts, k3. Row 19: K2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, [sk2po, yo, k3, yo] to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. Row 20 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.

Border RS: knit WS: purl WS: knit RS: sl1 pwise wyib WS: sl1 pwise wyif Cluster 3 intro 3 yo k2tog ssk sk2po Repeat work in MC work in CC

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CAST OFF Continue in CC only, using the 3.5mm crochet hook, and work a chain cast off as follows: 1. Insert hook in first st, yarn over the hook and pull the yarn through (1 st on hook) dropping shawl stitch from needle, yarn over hook and pull through (1 chain made), make 3 more chains. 1 st on hook 2. Insert hook in next 3 sts, yarn over the hook and pull the yarn through the 4 sts on the hook dropping the 3 shawl stitches from needle. 1 st on hook 3. Make 5 chains. 4. Repeat steps 2-3 until 1 st remains from the main shawl. 1 st from shawl and 1 st on hook 5. Insert hook in the remaining st, yarn over the hook and pull the yarn through the 2 sts dropping shawl stitch from needle. Cut the yarn and pull it all the way through the remaining st to secure. FINISHING Weave in all ends and block firmly to measurements taking care to pin out the crocheted loop edging.

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QUINCE & CO. ‘LONDON ROSE’ Everyone needs the cosy hug of a classic swingy cardigan. Double increases for the raglan create slanted rows of pretty eyelets, leaving the rest of Silene to be easy comfort knitting with a delicious squish of garter stitch to frame the shape.

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Quince & Co.’s custom colour takes just as much floral inspiration as the cardigan’s name, calling to mind the wild flowers that Pam sees blooming just outside her window and, closer to home, the amazing displays at the Chelsea Flower Show.


Silene By Pam Allen

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SIZES 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9) Finished bust circumference: 75.5 (82.5, 89.5, 96.5, 103.5, 110.5, 119.5, 129, 138.5)cm / 29¾ (32½, 35¼, 38, 40¾, 43½, 47, 50¾, 54½)in Model has 86cm (34in) chest and is wearing size 2.

TENSION 17.5 sts and 25 rows to 10cm (4in) over stocking stitch after blocking. Take time to check your tension and adjust the needle size accordingly – row tension is particularly important for this pattern.

YARN Quince and Co Lark (worsted weight; 100% American wool; 123m / 134yds per 50g skein) Shade: London Rose x 8 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13) skeins

SPECIAL STITCHES 3-into-1 (RS rows) [K1, yo, k1] into 1 stitch. 3 stitches made from 1 3-into-1 (WS rows) [P1, yo, p1] into 1 stitch. 3 stitches made from 1 ssk-yo-inc Slip 2 stitches one at a time knitwise to the RH needle; return stitches to LH needle in turned position then k1, yo, k1 into both stitches together through the back loop. 1 stitch increased k2tog-yo-inc Knit 2 sts together, then yo, k1 into the same 2 stitches. 1 stitch increased p2tog-yo-inc Purl 2 sts together, then yo, p1 into the same 2 stitches. 1 stitch increased

NEEDLES & NOTIONS 5mm (UK 6 / US 8) circular needle, minimum 80cm (32in) length 5mm (UK 6 / US 8) DPNs for sleeves 5mm (UK 6 / US H/8) crochet hook for provisional cast on Stitch markers 4 locking stitch markers Smooth waste yarn in similar weight for provisional cast on Stitch holders or additional waste yarn Tapestry needle 16.5 (18, 19.5, 21, 21, 23, 24, 26, 28)cm 6½ (7, 7¾, 8¼, 8¼ , 9, 9½, 10¼, 11)in

15cm / 6in 28.5 (30.5, 33, 35.5, 37.5, 40, 41.5, 44, 45.5)cm 11¼ (12, 13, 14, 14¾, 15¾, 16¼, 17¼, 18)in

34.5cm 13½in

45.5cm / 18in 18 (18, 19, 19, 20.5, 20.5, 21.5, 21.5, 23)cm 7 (7, 7½, 7½, 8, 8, 8½, 8½, 9)in 38 (40.5, 43, 45, 47, 49, 52, 55, 58)cm 15 (16, 17, 17¾, 18½, 19½, 20½, 21¾, 22¾)in

Direction of Knitting 75.5 (82.5, 89.5, 96.5, 103.5, 110.5, 119.5, 129, 138.5)cm 29¾ (32½, 35¼, 38, 40¾, 43½, 47, 50¾, 54½)in 101 (108, 115, 122, 129, 136, 145.5, 164)cm 39¾ (42½, 45¼, 48, 50¾, 22¾, 57¼, 60¾, 64½)in 51 (52, 54, 55, 55, 57, 58.5, 60.5, 62)cm 20 (20½, 21¼, 21¾, 22½, 23, 23¾, 24½)in 30


PATTERN NOTES • Silene is knitted flat, seamlessly, from the top down starting with a provisional cast on before working in garter stitch for the right and left sides of neckband. Stitches are picked up along the side edge of the neckband for the sleeves and back. The stitches from the garter band are continued in garter stitch, and stitches are increased in this garter section throughout yoke and body. Stitches for remainder of front, sleeves and back are worked in stockinette stitch. The body has a swingy silhouette, with increases at sides and additionally in back. Sleeves are worked from the top down, in the round. • Slip all stitches knitwise with yarn held at back. • Raglan shaping uses double increases, with the stitch itself marked using a locking stitch marker to keep the increases on track. PATTERN BEGINS NECKBAND Starting with the right-hand side of the neckband, using a DPN and provisional method, cast on 7 sts. Join main yarn and continue as follows: Note: Depending on the type of provisional method you use, you may need to knit one row with the working yarn immediately after cast-on before starting the pattern Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2: Sl1, k to end. Place a locking stitch marker on the RS of the fabric to help distinguish RS from WS. Rep Row 2 a further 36 times ending with a WS row. 19 garter ridges visible on RS Break yarn. Place sts on holder or waste yarn. With WS facing, carefully unpick the provisional cast-on and place the 7 live sts onto a DPN for the left-hand side of the neckband. Next row (WS): Sl1, k to end. Rep last row a further 36 times. 38 garter ridges visible on RS in total

YOKE Notes: You will be placing a locking stitch marker (PLM) directly into the central stitch of a double increase at each raglan point. The locking marker will be moved (RLM) up the central stitch every time you work an increase row. This will create one increased stitch in each front, one stitch on each side of each sleeve, and one stitch on each side of back, with the central stitch of each raglan maintaining a straight line throughout the raglan shaping. The pattern text refers to placement of the locking stitch marker in the central increase stitch as ‘PLM’ and ‘k to marked st’. All other markers are referred to in standard terms such as ‘PM’ and ‘k to marker’ etc. Set-up row 1 (RS): Using the circular needle, sl1, k5, sl next st to RH needle, pick up 1 st between first two garter ridges and place on LH needle, return slipped st to LH needle and k2tog, pick up and k1 st between each garter ridge to end, place sts held for RH side on LH needle, sl last picked up st to LH needle and ssk, then k6 to end. 49 sts Set-up row 2 (WS): Sl1, k5, PM, p to last 6 sts, PM, k to end. 2 markers placed Set-up row 3: Sl1, k to marker, 3-into-1 in next st and PLM in central st of inc, k7, 3-into-1 and PLM in central st of inc, k19, 3-into-1, PLM in central st, k7, 3-into-1, PLM in central st, SM, k to end. 57 sts; 4 locking stitch markers placed for raglan Set-up row 4: Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Work raglan increases and shaping as follows: Row 1 (RS): Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, [k to marked st, RLM, 3-into-1, PLM in central st] 4 times, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 10 sts inc Row 2 (WS): Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Row 3: [Sl1, k to marked st, RLM, 3-into-1, PLM in central st] 4 times, k to end. 8 sts inc Row 4: Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Rep last 4 rows a further 8 (8, 9, 10, 9, 10, 10, 9, 10) times. Sizes 2, 3, and 6 ONLY: Rep Row 1 only once more but do not work next WS row. 219 (229, 247, 255, 237, 265, 255, 237, 255) sts 31


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Continue for your size as follows: Note: To maintain the raglan line, but only work increases in the body sections, some sizes will be working double increases combined with decreases. The double increases are worked as before but with a decrease on the sleeve side of each raglan point. Increases will also be worked on WS rows for some sizes – please see the Special Stitches section for details on how to work WS row increases. Size 1 ONLY: Next row (RS): Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 6 sts inc; 2 for fronts and 4 for raglan in body only. 225 sts Next row (WS): Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Go to ‘ALL SIZES AGAIN’ section. Size 2 ONLY: Next row (WS and all following WS rows): Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Next row (RS): Sl1, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yoinc, PLM in central st] twice, k to end. 233 sts Work WS row as set. Next row: Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 239 sts Work WS row as set. Go to ‘ALL SIZES AGAIN’ section. Size 3 ONLY: Next row (WS): Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Next row (RS): Sl1, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yoinc, PLM in central st] twice, k to end. 251 sts Next row: Sl1, k to marker, SM, [p to marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st, p to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, p to marker, SM, k to end. 255 sts 33


Next row: Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 261 sts Next row: Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Go to ‘ALL SIZES AGAIN’ section. Size 4 ONLY: ** Next row (RS): Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 6 sts inc ** Next row (WS): Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Next row: [Sl1, k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yoinc, PLM in central st] twice, k to end. 265 sts Next row: Sl1, k to marker, SM, [p to marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st, p to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, p to marker, k to end. 269 sts Next row: Rep from ** to **. 275 sts Next row: Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Go to ‘ALL SIZES AGAIN’ section. Sizes 5, 7 and 9 ONLY: Next row (RS): Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, [k to marked st, RLM, 3-into-1, PLM in central st] 4 times, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 10 sts inc ** Next row (WS): Sl1, k to marker, SM, [p to marked st, RLM, 3-into-1, PLM in central st] 4 times, p to marker, k to end. 8 sts inc ** Next row: Sl1, *k to marked st, RLM, 3-into-1, PLM in central st; rep from * a further 3 times, k to end. 8 sts inc Next row: Rep from ** to **. 8 sts inc Rep last 4 rows 0 (0, 1) more time. 271 (289, 323) sts Next row: Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 6 sts inc

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*** Next row: Sl1, k to marker, SM, [p to marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st, p to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, p to marker, SM, k to end. 4 sts inc *** Next row: Sl1, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yoinc, PLM in central st] twice, k to end. 4 sts inc Next row: Rep from *** to ***. Rep last 4 rows a further 0 (1, 2) more times. Next row: Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 295 (331, 383) sts Next row: Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Go to ‘ALL SIZES AGAIN’ section. Size 6 ONLY: ** Next row (WS): Sl1, k to marker, SM, [p to marked st, RLM, 3-into-1 and PLM in central st] 4 times, p to marker, SM, k to end. 8 sts inc ** Next row (RS): Sl1, *k to marked st, RLM, 3-into-1, PLM in central st; rep from * a further 3 times, k to end. 8 sts inc Next row: Rep from ** to **. 289 sts *** Next row: Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 6 sts inc Next row (WS): Sl1, k to marker, SM, [p to marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st, p to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, p to marker, SM, k to end. 4 sts inc *** Next row: Sl1, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yoinc, PLM in central st] twice, k to end. 303 sts Next row: Sl1, k to marker, SM, [p to marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st, p to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, p to marker, SM, k to end. 307 sts Rep from *** to *** again. 317 sts Go to ‘ALL SIZES AGAIN’ section.

Size 8 ONLY: Next row (RS): Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, [k to marked st, RLM, 3-into-1, PLM in central st] 4 times, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 10 sts inc ** Next row (WS): Sl1, k to marker, [p to marked st, RLM, 3-into-1, PLM in central st] 4 times, p to marker, k to end. 8 sts inc ** Next row: Sl1, [k to marked st, RLM, 3-into-1, PLM in central st] 4 times, k to end. 8 sts inc Next row: Rep from ** to **. 8 sts inc Rep last 4 rows once more. 305 sts *** Next row: Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 6 sts inc; 2 for fronts and 4 for raglan in body only. 311 sts total Next row: Sl1, k to marker, SM, [p to marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st, p to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, p2tog-yo-inc, PLM in central st] twice, p to marker, SM, k to end. 4 sts inc *** Next row: Sl1, [k to marked st, RLM, ssk-yo-inc, PLM in central st, k to 1 st before next marked st, RLM, k2tog-yoinc, PLM in central st] twice, k to end. 4 sts inc Next row: Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Rep last 4 rows twice more, then from *** to *** once more. 357 sts Go to ‘ALL SIZES AGAIN’ section. ALL SIZES AGAIN 225 (239, 261, 275, 295, 317, 331, 357, 383) sts on needle; 37 (40, 44, 47, 50, 54, 58, 63, 68) sts for each front (including marked sts), 61 (65, 71, 75, 81, 87, 93, 101, 109) sts for back (including marked sts), and 45 (47, 51, 53, 57, 61, 61, 65, 69) sts for each sleeve. Piece measures approx 16.5 (18, 19.5, 21, 21, 23, 24, 26, 28)cm / 6½ (7, 7¾, 8¼, 8¼, 9, 9½, 10¼, 11)in from pick-up after neckband down centre back.

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DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES Divide row (RS): Sl1, [k to first marked st, RLM and knit the previously marked st, place next 45 (47, 51, 53, 57, 61, 61, 65, 69) sts (to next marked st) on waste yarn for sleeve, using the backwards loop method, cast on 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) sts, PM for side, using the backwards loop method, cast on 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) sts, RLM and knit the previously marked st] twice, k to end. 143 (157, 171, 185, 197, 211, 229, 247, 265) sts on the needle Next row (WS): Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Work in pattern as follows: Next row (RS): Sl1, k to first marker, M1, SM, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 2 sts inc Next row (WS): Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Next row: Sl1, k to end slipping markers as you pass them. Next row: Sl1, k to first marker, SM, p to last marker, SM, k to end. Rep last 4 rows a further 4 times, then rep Inc row only once more. 155 (169, 183, 197, 209, 223, 241, 259, 277) sts Continue straight in pattern and work 2 rows. Next row (WS): Patt to first side marker, SM, patt 21 (23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39) sts, PM for back, patt 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 39, 41) sts, PM for back, patt to end. 6 markers in place Piece measures approx. 10.5cm (4in) from divide row. BEGIN BACK AND SIDE SHAPING Next row (RS): Sl1, k to first marker, M1, SM, k to first back marker, M1, SM, k to next back marker, SM, M1, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 4 sts inc Patt 3 rows straight. Next row: Sl1, k to first marker, M1, SM, [k to 2 sts before side marker, M1, k2, SM, k2, M1] twice, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 6 sts inc Patt 3 rows straight. Rep last 8 rows a further four times, then the first row only again. 209 (223, 237, 251, 263, 277, 295, 313, 331) sts on needle; 61 (65, 69, 73, 76, 80, 85, 90, 95) sts for each front and 87 (93, 99, 105, 111, 117, 125, 133, 141) sts for back 36

Patt 3 rows straight, removing the side and back markers but leaving front markers in place. Next row (RS): Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 2 sts inc Rep last 4 rows once more. 213 (227, 241, 255, 267, 281, 299, 317, 335) sts Piece measures approx. 30.5cm (12in) from divide row. HEM Knit 3 rows in garter st. Next row (RS): Sl1, k to marker, M1, SM, k to last marker, SM, M1, k to end. 215 (229, 243, 257, 269, 283, 301, 319, 337) sts Rep last 4 rows twice more. 219 (233, 247, 261, 273, 287, 305, 323, 341) sts Loosely cast off knitwise. SLEEVES (both alike) With RS facing, place 45 (47, 51, 53, 57, 61, 61, 65, 69) held sts for sleeve on DPNs. Pick up and k2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) sts in first 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) sts cast-on at underarm, PM for beginning of round, pick up and k2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) sts in remaining cast-on sts, join for working in the round, k to end. 49 (53, 57, 61, 65, 69, 71, 75, 79) sts Work St st in the round (knit every round) until sleeve measures 4cm (1½in) from underarm. Next round (Dec): K2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 2 sts dec Rep Dec round every 10 (8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 4) rounds a further 6 (8, 5, 12, 10, 6, 6, 2, 19) times, then every 8 (6, 6, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 0) rounds 2 (2, 6, 1, 4, 10, 10, 16, 0) times. 31 (31, 33, 33, 35, 35, 37, 37, 39) sts Next round: Knit. Sleeve measures approx 35cm (14in) from underarm. CUFF Next round: Purl. Next round: Knit. Rep last 2 rounds until sleeve measures 45.5 cm (18in) from underarm, ending after a knit round. Cast off purlwise. FINISHING Weave in ends. Steam or wet block cardigan to finished measurements.


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SHALIMAR ‘PARMA VIOLET’ Classic in fit and style, ‘Bunty’ is a top down cardigan sized from baby to four years. Easy increases and decreases produce an effortless stitch pattern; matched with uncomplicated sleeves, you’ll have a result that pleases both the knitter and the recipient! A simple crochet

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picot edge finishes ‘Bunty’ and works as a button band, the perfect place to showcase a few favourite buttons. Shalimar’s soft blend and gorgeous colours made it our choice for a special cardigan for a treasured little one. Parma Violets – Sugar sweet and floral.


Bunty By Donna Higgins

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SIZES To fit: 0-3 months (6 months, 12 months, 2 years, 4 years) Finished chest measurement: 51 (57, 59.5, 66, 72)cm / 20 (22¼, 23¼, 26, 28¼)in To fit chest size: 45 (52, 55, 64, 67.5)cm / 17¾ (20½, 21¾, 25¼, 26½)in Length down centre back: 21.5 (25.5, 28, 33, 37)cm / 8½ (10, 11, 13, 14½)in Sleeve length from underarm: 12.5 (15, 16, 20, 25)cm / 5 (6, 6½, 8, 10)in Our model is 3½ years old and is wearing the largest size. YARN Shalimar Yarns Breathless (4ply/fingering weight; 75% superwash merino wool, 15% cashmere, 10% silk; 384m / 420yds per 100g skein) Shade: Parma Violet x 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) skeins NEEDLES & NOTIONS 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) knitting needles 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) DPNs for the sleeves 6mm (UK 4/US 10) knitting needle for cast off 3.25mm (UK 10/US D/3) crochet hook for picot edging Stitch markers Stitch holders or waste yarn 1 or 2 buttons as desired Tapestry needle TENSION 24 sts and 32 rows to 10cm (4in) over stocking stitch on 3.75mm needle after blocking. Take time to check your tension and adjust the needle size as necessary to ensure an accurate finish. PATTERN NOTES • Bunty is worked flat in one piece from the top down, with sleeves worked in the round and a crocheted picot edging embellishing an asymmetrical button band. • The nature of the stitch pattern means that stitch counts fluctuate. When counting stitches, do so after working Row 3 (plain purl) of the stitch pattern. • Where only one number is given this applies to all sizes.

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PATTERN BEGINS Cast on 64 (72, 78, 88, 94) sts. Purl 1 row. Set-up row (RS): K8 (10, 12, 14, 16), PM, k8 (9, 9, 10, 10), PM, k22 (24, 26, 30, 32), PM, k8 (9, 9, 10, 10), PM, k18 (20, 22, 24, 26). 4 stitch markers placed Starting with a WS row, commence main stitch pattern as follows: Row 1 (WS): K2tog to marker, SM, p to next marker, SM, k2tog to next marker, SM, p to next marker, SM, k2tog to end. Row 2 (RS): *Kfb to 1 st before marker, kfbf, SM, kfb, k to 1 st before next marker, kfb, SM, kfbf; rep from * once more, kfb to end. 8 raglan sts inc Row 3: Purl. Row 4: *K to 1 st before marker, kfb, SM, kfb; rep from * a further 3 times, k to end. 8 raglan sts inc Total stitch count after one repeat of pattern rows 1-4: 80 (88, 94, 104, 110) sts Rows 1-4 set pattern. Continue in pattern as set and rep last 4 rows a further 7 (8, 8, 9, 10) times increasing 16 raglan sts with every repeat. 192 (216, 222, 248, 270) sts DIVIDE SLEEVES FROM BODY Next row (WS): K2tog to marker, SM, p to next marker, SM, k2tog to next marker, SM, p to next marker, SM, k2tog to end. Next row (RS): *Kfb to 1 st before marker, kfbf, remove marker, place next 40 (45, 45, 50, 54) sts on hold for sleeve, remove marker, cast on 1 st, PM, cast on 1 st, kfbf; rep from * once more, kfb to end of row. 120 (134, 140, 156, 170) sts Next row: Purl. Next row: Knit. BODY INCREASES Row 1 (WS): K2tog across the row. Row 2 (RS): *Kfb to 2 sts before marker, kfbf, kfb, SM, kfb, kfbf; rep from * once more, kfb to end. 124 (138, 144, 160, 174) sts Row 3: Purl. Row 4: K to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, SM, k1, kfb; rep from * once more, k to end. 128 (142, 148, 164, 178) sts

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BODY Row 1 (WS): K2tog across the row. Row 2 (RS): Kfb across the row. Row 3: Purl. Row 4: Knit. Last 4 rows set pattern. Work in pattern until body measures 10 (12.5, 15, 19, 21.5)cm / 4 (5, 6, 7½, 8½)in from underarm, ending with RS Row 4. Next row (WS): Purl. Cast off. BUTTON BAND With RS facing, starting at the hemline of the right-hand front, pick up and k1 st in the knit and purl rows only, skipping the kfb and k2tog rows and ending with an even stitch count. Row 1 (WS): K2tog across the row. Row 2 (RS): Kfb across the row. Row 3: Purl. Row 4: Knit. Note: For a wider button band, rep last 4 rows before working the buttonhole row. Choose whether to work a single or double buttonhole as follows: SINGLE BUTTONHOLE Row 1 (WS): K2tog across the row. Row 2 (RS): K1, kfb to last 2 sts, yo, k1, kfb. 1 st dec DOUBLE BUTTONHOLE Row 1 (WS): K2tog across the row. Row 2 (RS): K1, kfb to last 6 sts, yo, k1, kfb to last 2 sts, yo, k1, kfb. 1 st dec BOTH versions again: Next row (WS): Purl. Next row (RS): Knit. Next row: K2tog to last 3 sts, k3tog. 1 st dec Next row: K1, kfb to end. 1 st dec Next row: Knit. Cast off.


CROCHET PICOT EDGING With RS of button band facing, beginning at the hemline and using the crochet hook, join yarn in first row of band and work as follows: Sl st, *3ch, sl st in same space, 5ch, sl st in same space, 3ch, sl st in same space, sl st in each of next 3 sts; rep from * to upper band at neckline. Fasten off. SLEEVES Slip sleeve sts onto DPNs and divide evenly. With RS facing, beginning at the centre of the underarm, pick up and k2 sts, k across 40 (45, 45, 50, 54) held sleeve sts, pick up and k2 sts in underarm, join for working in the round and PM for start of round. 44 (49, 49, 54, 58) sts Knit every round until sleeve measures 10 (12.5, 14, 18, 23) cm / 4 (5, 5½, 7, 9)in from underarm. CUFF Next round: P2tog to last 0 (1, 1, 0, 0) st, p0 (1, 1, 0, 0). 22 (25, 25, 27, 29) sts Next round: Knit. Next round: Purl. Rep last 2 rows twice more. Using the 6mm needle, loosely cast off all sts. Repeat for second sleeve. FINISHING Weave in all ends and block to measurements. Stitch the button(s) in line with the buttonhole(s) allowing the button band to overlap the neckline on the opposite side – the picot edging should peek above the cast-on edge.

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Jade Sapphire cashmere in ‘oh sweetie pie’ and ‘Whimsy Garlands’. see page 106

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UNCOMMON THREAD ‘TURBILLION’ Sprinkle originally featured as a baby cardigan in our book ‘Juju’s Loops’ and though it still includes the same elements, this adult size has been updated with elegant grown-up details. Juju has adapted the shape for a more flattering style, included short rows in the yoke for a comfortable fit, and

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optional pockets that are concealed within the stitch pattern. The Uncommon Thread’s Lush Worsted provides a luxury base for rich semi-solids and unique speckled skeins, which now includes ‘Turbillion’ - inspired by celebration and stars with a varying flight that creates a spiralling glitter effect.


Sprinkle By Juju Vail

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34.5cm 13½in

45.5cm / 18in 18 (18, 19, 19, 20.5, 20.5, 21.5, 21.5, 23)cm 7 (7, 7½, 7½, 8, 8, 8½, 8½, 9)in

YARN The Uncommon Thread Lush Worsted (worsted weight; 38 (40.5, 43, 45, 47, 49, 52, 55, 58)cm 80% superwash merino wool, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 15 (16, 17, 17¾, 18½, 19½, 20½, 21¾, 22¾)in 212m / 231yds per 100g skein) Long version with pockets: MC: Turbillion x 5 (6, 7) skeins 75.5 (82.5, 89.5, 96.5, 103.5, 110.5, 119.5, 129, 138.5)cm 29¾ (32½, 35¼, 38, 40¾, 43½, 47, 50¾, 54½)in CC: Meadowgrass x 1 (1, 1) skein SIZES Cropped version: 1 (2, 3) Finished bust: 91 (102.5, 121)cm / 35¾ (40¼, 47½)in – to be 101 (108, 115, 122, 129, 136, 145.5, 164)cmMC: Turbillion x 4 (5, 6) skeins 39¾positive (42½, 45¼,ease 48, 50¾, 22¾, 57¼, 60¾, 64½)in CC: Meadowgrass x 1 (1, 1) skein worn with at least 2.5-7.5cm / 1-3in 51 (52, 54, size 55, 55,157, Model has 86cm (34in) chest and is wearing of58.5, the60.5, 62)cm 20 (20½, 21¼, 21¾, 22½, 23, 23¾, 24½)in NEEDLES & NOTIONS long version with pockets. 4.5mm (UK 7 / US 7) circular needle, 100-150cm (40-60in) Important note on finished lengths: The length down centre length back is calculated when laid flat after finishing – the nature 4.5mm (UK 7 / US 7) DPNs for pockets and sleeves of the chevron stitch pattern means that the length will relax 2 Locking stitch markers and grow by up to an additional 7.5cm (3in) with wear. 4 Stitch markers Stitch holders or smooth waste yarn 3 x 20mm (¾in) buttons Tapestry needle It is vital that you check your tension for this pattern in both chevron and garter stitch and measure after blocking it. If tension is achieved exactly the yardage requirements given will be allofyou need, but nearly all yarn will be used so you may Direction Knitting wish to purchase an extra ball of the main colour if unsure.

22 (25, 27.5)cm 8¾ (9¾, 11)in

39.5 (41.5, 46)cm 15½ (16¼, 18¼)in

11cm / 4¼in 29 (33, 34.5)cm 11½ (13, 13½)in

34cm / 13½in 14.5cm 5¾in 16 (18.5, 18.5)cm 6¼ (7¼, 7¼)in

17cm / 6¾in

91 (102.5, 121)cm 35¾ (40½, 47½)in 48

46 (49.5, 54.5)cm 18¼ (19½, 21½)in Cropped version Longer version 56.5 (60, 64.5)cm 22¼ (23½, 25½)in with pockets

Direction of Knitting


TENSION 18 sts and 36 rows to 10cm (4in) over garter stitch after blocking. 26 sts and 28 rows to 10cm (4in) over chevron stitch worked flat after blocking. Note re. Chevron Stitch pattern: Owing to the nature of the stitch pattern, you will find with wear that the tension in the lower half of the body section relaxes to approximately 22 sts to 10cm (4in). Take time to check your tension worked both flat and in the round for the sleeves, and adjust the needle size accordingly to ensure an accurate finish.

Use the following pattern for swatching: Cast on a multiple of 10 + 10 sts. Row 1 (RS): K5, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] to last 5 sts, k5. Row 2 (WS): K5, p to last 5 sts, k5. Rep Rows 1 and 2. PATTERN NOTES • Sprinkle uses the standard ‘wrap and turn’ method for short rows, but this can be substituted for the German Short Row method if preferred.

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PATTERN BEGINS GARTER YOKE The first and last 5 sts form the button bands. There are no increases worked on these sts. Three buttonholes are evenly spaced in the garter yoke section. Instructions below include contrast stripes. For a single colour garter yoke, work all yoke rows in CC. Using MC and the cable cast on method, cast on 76 (80, 88). Break yarn and change to CC. Row 1 (RS)(Inc): K9 (5, 5), [M1, k2] 29 (35, 39) times, M1, k9 (5, 5). 106 (116, 128) sts Row 2 (WS): Knit. Row 3 (Buttonhole): K to last 5 sts, k1, sl1 kwise, sl1 kwise, pass first slipped st over second, sl1 kwise, pass second slipped st over third, slip RH st back to LH needle, using the backwards loop method, cast 3 sts onto RH needle, slip last cast-on st from RH to LH needle, k2tog, k1. Row 4: Knit. Row 5 (Short row shaping): Place a locking stitch marker 28 (30, 34) sts from each front edge to mark the shoulder. K to 1 st before second marker, w&t, k to 1 st before first marker, w&t, k to end of row. Row 6: K to end, removing markers as you pass them – there is no need to pick up the wraps. Rows 7-8: Change to MC. Knit. Rows 9-12: Change to CC. Knit. Row 13 (Short row shaping): Place a locking stitch marker 30 sts from each front edge. K to 1 st before second marker, w&t, k to 1 st before first marker, w&t, k to end of row. Row 14: K to end, removing markers as you pass them. Rows 15-16: Change to MC. Knit. Rows 17-20: Change to CC. Knit. Row 21 (Short row shaping AND buttonhole): Place a locking stitch marker 28 (30, 34) sts from each front edge. K to 1 st before second marker, w&t, k to 1 st before first marker, w&t, k to last 5 sts, k1, sl1 kwise, sl1 kwise, pass first slipped st over second, sl1 kwise, pass second slipped st over third, slip RH st back to LH needle, using the backwards loop method, cast 3 sts onto RH needle, slip last cast-on st from RH to LH needle, k2tog, k1. 50

Row 22: K to end, removing markers as you pass them. Rows 23–24: Change to MC. Knit. Row 25 (Inc): Change to CC. K7 (5, 5), [M1, k2] 46 (53, 59) times, M1, k7 (5, 5). 153 (170, 188) sts Rows 26-28: Knit. Row 29 (Short row shaping): Place a locking stitch marker 39 (43, 48) sts from each front edge. K to 1 st before second marker, w&t, k to 1 st before first marker, w&t, k to end of row. Row 30: K to end, removing markers as you pass them. Rows 31-32: Change to MC. Knit. Row 33-36: Change to CC. Knit. Row 37 (Short row shaping): Place a locking stitch marker 39 (43, 48) sts from each front edge. K to 1 st before second marker, w&t, k to 1 st before first marker, w&t, k to end of row. Row 38: K to end, removing markers as you pass them. Row 39 (Inc AND buttonhole): K to last 5 sts and evenly inc 0 (3, 1) sts across the row, k1, sl1 kwise, sl1 kwise, pass first slipped st over second, sl1 kwise, pass second slipped st over third, slip RH st back to LH needle, using the backwards loop method, cast 3 sts onto RH needle, slip last cast-on st from RH to LH needle, k2tog, k1. 153, (173, 189) sts Row 40: Knit. ESTABLISH CHEVRON YOKE This is a good place to insert a lifeline, just in case! Correctly following Row 1 of the next section is crucial to accurately growing the sweater. Once the chevron pattern is set, the increases are easy to follow. Change to MC and continue as follows: Row 1 (RS)(Inc): K5, [M1L, k3, M1R, k1] 35 (40, 44) times, M1L, k3, M1R, k5. 225 (255, 279) sts Row 2 (WS and all following WS rows): K5, p to last 5 sts, k5. Row 3: K5, [M1L, k1, CDD, k1, M1R, k1] 35 (40, 44) times, M1L, k1, CDD, k1, M1R, k5. Row 5: Rep Row 3. Row 7 (Inc): K5, [M1L, k5, M1R, k1] 35 (40, 44) times, M1L, k5, M1R, k5. 297 (337, 369) sts Row 9: K5, [M1L, k2, CDD, k2, M1R, k1] 35 (40, 44) times, M1L, k2, CDD, k2, M1R, k5. Row 11: Rep Row 9. Row 13: Rep Row 9.


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Row 15 (Inc): K5, [M1L, k7, M1R, k1] 35 (40, 44) times, M1L, k7, M1R, k5. 369 (419, 459) sts MAIN CHEVRON PATTERN Row 1 (RS): K5, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 35 (40, 44) times, M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k5. Row 2 (WS and all following WS rows): K5, p to last 5 sts, k5. Rows 1 and 2 set main chevron patt. Work a further 12 (20, 28) rows in patt as set. At this point it is worth trying on the cardi to check the armhole depth is comfortable – add a few more patt rows if desired. Divide body and sleeves as follows (RS): K5, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 5 (6, 7) times, M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, PM, k1, place next 70 (80, 80) sts on hold for left sleeve, using the backwards loop method, cast on 6 (6, 10) sts, PM, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 9 (10, 12) times, M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, PM, k1, place next 70 (80, 80) sts on hold for right sleeve, using the backwards loop method, cast on 6 (6, 10) sts, PM, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 5

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(6, 7) times, M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k5. 241 (271, 319) Body sts; 70 (80, 80) sts on hold for each sleeve Next row (WS): K5, p to last 5 sts, k5. Next Row: K5, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 5 (6, 7) times, M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, SM, k7 (7, 11), SM, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 9 (10, 12) times, M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, SM, k7 (7, 11), SM, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 5 (6, 7) times, M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k5. 241 (271, 319) sts Next row: K5, p to last 5 sts, k5. UNDERARM GUSSET Continue in chevron patt, working WS rows as set, and dec 7 (7, 11) underarm gusset sts between markers every 6 (6, 4)th row as follows: First decrease row (RS): [Patt to marker, SM, ssk, k3 (3, 7), k2tog, SM] twice, patt to end. 237 (267, 315) sts Work 5 (5, 3) rows in patt as set. Second decrease row (RS): [Patt to marker, SM, ssk, k1 (1, 5), k2tog, SM] twice, patt to end. 233 (263, 311) sts Next row (WS): K5, p to last 5 sts, k5. Work 5 (5, 3) rows in patt as set.


Sizes 1 and 2 ONLY: Third decrease row (RS): [Patt to marker, remove marker, CDD, remove marker] twice, patt to end. 229 (259) sts Next row (WS): K5, p to last 5 sts, k5. Go to Main Body section. Size 3 ONLY: Third decrease row (RS): [Patt to marker, SM, ssk, k3, k2tog, SM] twice, patt to end. 307 sts Work 3 rows in patt as set. Fourth decrease row (RS): [Patt to marker, SM, ssk, k1, k2tog, SM] twice, patt to end. 303 sts Work 3 rows in patt as set. Fifth decrease row (RS): [Patt to marker, remove marker, CDD, remove marker] twice, patt to end. 299 sts Next row (WS): K5, p to last 5 sts, k5. MAIN BODY ALL sizes again: Next row (RS): K5, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 21 (24, 28) times, M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k5. Next row (WS): K5, p to last 5 sts, k5. For cropped version without pockets: Patt 44 rows then go to Garter Hem section. For longer version with pockets: Patt 20 rows then go to Pockets section. POCKETS (optional) Divide cardigan into three sections as follows: Leave first 50 (50, 60) left front sts on the needle, place next 129 (159, 179) sts on stitch holder, place remaining 50 (50, 60) right front sts on separate holder. LEFT FRONT Next row (RS): K5, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 4, (4, 5) times, M1L, k3, k2tog. Next row (WS): P45 (45, 55), k5. These 2 rows set left front patt. Work a further 39 rows in patt as set ending with a RS row. Break yarn and place sts on hold.

BACK AND POCKET LININGS With RS facing, slip 129 (159, 179) back sts onto working needle and rejoin yarn. Next row (RS): Ssk, k2, M1R, k1, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 12 (15, 17) times, M1L, k2, k2tog, PM, using the backwards loop method, cast on 31 sts. Next row (WS): P15, k1 (pocket fold centre st), p15, SM, p to last st, PM, using the backwards loop method, cast on 31 sts. Next row: K15, p1 (pocket fold centre st), k to marker, SM, ssk, k2, M1R, k1, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 12 (15, 17) times, M1L, k2, k2tog, SM, k to centre st of pocket, (mark centre st if desired), purl centre st, k to end of pocket. 191 (221, 241) sts Next row: P to centre st of right pocket, k1, p to marker, SM, p to left pocket marker, SM, p to centre st of pocket, k1, p to end. Next row: K to centre of left pocket, M1R, p1, M1L, k to marker, SM, ssk, k2, M1R, k1, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 12 (15, 18) times, M1L, k2, k2tog, SM, k to centre st of right pocket, M1R, p1, M1L, k to end. 2 pocket sts inc Last 2 rows set back and pocket patt. Continue in patt for a further 28 rows, until there are 61 sts for each pocket. Work a further 7 rows without increasing pocket sts and ending with a WS row. Break yarn leaving a 30cm (12in) tail for sewing up the sides and top of pocket. 251 (281, 301) sts CASTING OFF POCKETS Slip first 30 pocket sts to a DPN. With stocking stitch sides facing each other, fold pocket along the centre fold line. Use a third needle to cast off pocket sts using the 3-needle cast off method to close the bottom of pocket and cast off sts simultaneously. Note: Begin by working the first 3 sts (the fold stitch and one from front and back of pocket) together. When you come to the marker, remove it and work CDD using last pocket st and ssk sts. Patt across the back to 2 sts before next pocket marker. Remove marker and work CDD instead of the final k2tog in pattern. Transfer next 30 sts to a DPN and remaining 30 sts to second DPN. With stocking stitch sides facing each other, fold the pocket along the centre-fold line. Use the circular needle and 3-needle method to cast off the pocket stitches. Break yarn and place remaining 129 (159, 179) back sts on holder. 53


RIGHT FRONT With RS facing, slip 50, (50, 60) right front sts onto working needle and rejoin yarn. Next row (RS): Ssk, k3, M1R, [k1, M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R] 4 (4, 5) times, k5. Next row (WS): K5, p45. Last 2 rows set right front patt. Continue in patt for a further 39 rows ending with a RS row. Next row (WS): K5, p45 (45, 55), purl across 129 (159, 179) back sts, followed by 45 (45, 55) left front sts working last 5 sts in garter st as set. 229 (259, 299) sts Work 13 rows in chevron patt, ending with a RS row. Try the cardigan on to check the length and add a few more rows if desired. GARTER HEM Knit 6 rows in G-st. Cast off kwise. SLEEVES (both alike) Set-up round: Rejoin MC at underarm. Pick up and k6 (6, 10) sts from underarm cast-on, [M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, k1] 6 (7, 7) times, M1L, k3, CDD, k3, M1R, PM, k7 (7, 11), PM for beginning of round. 76 (86, 90) sts Continue in chevron pattern and St-st and AT THE SAME TIME dec a total of 6 (6, 10) underarm sts between markers as set in body section, decreasing 2 sts every sixth round for sizes 1 and 2 and every fourth round for size 3, working a total of 19 (19, 21) rounds from the underarm in pattern as follows, starting with an odd numbered round: All following odd numbered rounds: Knit all sts and slip the markers. All following even numbered rounds: Work in chevron patt to marker, SM, k to next marker, SM. 70 (80, 80) sts remain after underarm decreases Work straight in chevron patt until sleeve measures 18cm / 7in ending with an odd numbered round.

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Shape sleeve as follows: Next round (Dec): [K3, CDD, k4] 7 (8, 8) times. 56 (64, 64) sts Next round (odd round): Knit. Next round (even round): [M1L, k2, CDD, k2, M1R, k1] 7 (8, 8) times. Rep last 2 rounds a further 7 times, then work one more odd round (17 rounds worked straight). Next round (Dec): [K2, CDD, k3] 7 (8, 8) times. 42 (48, 48) sts Next round (odd round): Knit. Next round (even round): [M1L, k1, CDD, k1, M1R, k1] 7 (8, 8) times. Rep last 2 rounds a further 7 times, then work one more odd round (17 rounds worked straight). GARTER CUFF Change to contrast colour if desired. Knit 1 round. Purl 1 round. Rep last 2 rounds twice more. Cast off. FINISHING POCKETS AND SWEATER Finish pockets by whip stitching the tops shut and the open edge to inside of front. Tack pocket down at upper top corner and bottom corner to attach to inside of sweater. Weave in ends and block cardigan to measurements, laying it flat to dry thoroughly before stitching the buttons in place.


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VIOLA ‘SPECKLED MIST’ Inspired by both the designer’s and dyer’s time in England, ‘Wreath’ captures the colours and shapes of the seasons. Viola sought to evoke the subtle and natural colours found in the Exmoor landscape, while Meghan’s design is founded on the quintessential Loop style.

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The layered tones and complex colours of ‘Speckled Mist’ are revealed with a dainty daisy stitch, while overlapping branches and leaves border the shawl. Wrap yourself in romance! Speckled Mist – dappled sunshine breaks the fog of an autumn morning.


Wreath By Meghan Fernandes

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SIZE One Size: 122cm (48in) at widest point x 44.5cm (17½in) deep YARN Viola Merino Fingering (4ply/fingering weight; 100% superwash merino wool; 366m / 400yds per 100g skein) Shade: Speckled Mist x 2 skeins NEEDLES & NOTIONS 4mm (UK 8/US 6) circular needle, minimum 100cm (40in) length 4mm (UK 8/US G/6) crochet hook for provisional cast-on Cable needle Smooth waste yarn for provisional cast-on Blocking wires and T-pins are strongly recommended for this pattern Tapestry needle TENSION 23 sts and 34 rows to 10cm (4in) over daisy stitch on 4mm needle after blocking. Each border leaf measures 13cm (5in) wide x 6.5cm (2½in) tall Take time to check your tension and adjust the needle size accordingly to ensure an accurate finish. SPECIAL STITCHES D3 (p3tog daisy) P3tog without dropping sts from left needle, yo, purl same 3 sts together again, drop those 3 sts from left needle. D4 (p4tog daisy) P4tog without dropping sts from left needle, yo, purl same 4 sts together again, drop those 4 sts from left needle. 2/1 LPC Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and hold at front of work, p1, then k2 from cable needle. 2/1 RPC Slip next stitch to cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, then p1 from cable needle. 1/1/2 LPC Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and hold at front of work, k1, p1, then k2 from cable needle. LLI Left Lifted Increase: Lift the stitch below the stitch you just worked on the right-hand needle and knit it. RLI Right Lifted Increase: Lift the stitch below the stitch on the left-hand needle and knit it. 58

PATTERN NOTES • The border of the shawl is worked first; stitches are provisionally cast on and the right half of the Wreath pattern is worked sideways, including the picot edge. The crochet provisional cast on is then unzipped and the left side of the wreath pattern is worked in the other direction. Short row shaping allows the border to gently curve. Stitches are picked up along the top edge of the border and short row shaping is used to shape the body of the shawl which is worked in daisy stitch. • When working the border you will find the stitch count fluctuates throughout. • The picots are created by casting on stitches at the end of a row and immediately casting them off again. We recommend you work as follows: pattern to the end of the row, turn your work and use the knitted cast-on method to cast the 3 stitches onto the RH needle, then immediately cast them off. Note that on the chart and written instructions, this is shown over two separate rows. • You do not need to pick up and work the wrap of the w&t in the border – just keep on knitting. PATTERN BEGINS Please read all the pattern notes before starting. BORDER Using the crochet hook and smooth waste yarn, provisionally cast 34 sts onto the 4mm needle. Join the working yarn and work Chart A once. Work Chart B a total of 7 times. Work Chart C once. Work Chart D, repeating until only 7 sts remain. Cast off remaining sts. Carefully unzip the provisional cast-on, and with RS facing, place the 34 live sts on the 4mm needle. Work Chart E once. Work Chart F a total of 7 times. Work Chart G once. Work Rows 1-3 of Chart H, then repeat Rows 4-9 until only 7 sts remain. Cast off remaining sts.


Weave in ends and block the border, allowing it to gently curve into a crescent shape. Use blocking wires along the upper edge and if possible also along the lower edge, pinning the wires into the curved shape and pinning out the picots. Leave to dry thoroughly before unpinning.

Row 4: [K1, D3] to 2 sts before turning gap, k1, D4. Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all live sts are incorporated from the right hand side of the shawl. Very loosely cast off purlwise to 1 st before turning gap, p2tog and cast off remaining sts.

MAIN BODY With WS facing, pick up and k339 sts along upper edge of the border (1 st for every row of the border). Row 1 (RS): K181 sts, turn. Note: Do not wrap the stitch as you turn, either here or in any of the following rows. Row 2 (WS): [K1, D3] 6 times, turn. Row 3: K to 1 st before turning gap, ssk, k2, turn.

FINISHING Weave in ends and block to measurements. Use blocking wires to shape the body of the shawl into crescent shape – before blocking, the centre of the body may look more pointed than curved but it will shape into a smooth crescent. Stretch the daisy stitch body of the shawl to open up the stitch pattern.

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Chart A

RS: knit WS: purl RS: purl WS: knit no stich yo RS: k1tbl WS: p1tbl kfb pfb RS: k2tog WS: p2tog ssk p2tog ssp sk2po w&t cast on cast off LLI RLI Slip 1 2/1 LPC 2/1 RPC 1/1/2 LPC first st on right needle after cast off first st on right needle after w&t Repeat

CHARTS – WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS CHART A Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p9, k1, 1/1/2 LPC, p14. Row 2 (WS): K14, p2, k1, p2, k9, p1tbl, k5, cast on 3 sts. 37 sts Short Row 3: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 4: K4. Row 5: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p8, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2, p14. Row 6: K14, p2, k2, p2, k8, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 7: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. 60

Short Row 8: K4, cast on 3 sts. Row 9: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p7, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p13. Row 10: K13, p2, k4, p2, k7, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 11: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 12: K4. Row 13: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p6, 2/1 RPC, p4, k2, p13. Row 14: K13, p2, k5, p2, k6, p1tbl, k5, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 15: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, w&t.


Short Row 16: K4. Row 17: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p5, 2/1 RPC, p5, k2, p13. Row 18: K13, p2, k6, p2, k5, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 19: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 20: K4, cast on 3 sts. Row 21: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p4, 2/1 RPC, p6, k2, p13. Row 22: K13, p2, k7, p2, k4, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 23: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 24: K4. Row 25: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p4, ssk, pfb, p4, p2tog, k1, LLI, RLI, k1, ssp, p11. Row 26: K12, p4, k12, p1tbl, k5, cast on 3 sts.

Short Row 27: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 28: K4. Row 29: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p10, p2tog, k1, RLI, k2, LLI, k1, ssp, p10. Row 30: K11, p6, k11, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 31: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 32: K4, cast on 3 sts. Row 33: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p9, p2tog, k1, RLI, k4, LLI, k1, ssp, p9. Row 34: K10, p8, k10, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 35: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 36: K4.

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CHART B Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p8, p2tog, [k1, yo] twice, kfb, k2, kfb, [yo, k1] twice, ssp, p8. Row 2 (WS): K9, p5, k1, p2, k1, p5, k9, p1tbl, k5, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 3: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 4: K4. Row 5: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p7, p2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, [k2, kfb] twice, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssp, p7. Row 6: K8, p7, k2, p2, k2, p7, k8, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 7: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 8: K4, cast on 3 sts. Row 9: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p6, p2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, pfb, p1, k2, p1, pfb, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssp, p6. Row 10: K7, p9, k3, p2, k3, p9, k7, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 11: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 12: K4. Row 13: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p5, p2tog, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, pfb, p2, k2, p2, pfb, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, ssp, p5. Row 14: K6, p11, k4, p2, k4, p11, k6, p1tbl, k5, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 15: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 16: K4. Row 17: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p4, ssp, ssk, k7, k2tog, pfb, p3, k2, p3, pfb, ssk, k7, k2tog, p2tog, p4.

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Row 18: K5, p9, k5, p2, k5, p9, k5, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 19: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 20: K4, cast on 3 sts. Row 21: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p3, ssp, ssk, k5, k2tog, pfb, p4, k2, p4, pfb, ssk, k5, k2tog, p2tog, p3. Row 22: K4, p7, k6, p2, k6, p7, k4, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 23: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 24: K4. Row 25: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p2, ssp, ssk, k3, k2tog, pfb, p5, k1, LLI, RLI, k1, p5, pfb, ssk, k3, k2tog, p2tog, p2. Row 26: K3, p5, k7, p4, k7, p5, k3, p1tbl, k5, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 27: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 28: K4. Row 29: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p1, ssp, ssk, k1, k2tog, pfb, p6, k1, RLI, k2, LLI, k1, p6, pfb, ssk, k1, k2tog, p2tog, p1. Row 30: K2, p3, k8, p6, k8, p3, k2, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 31: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 32: K4, cast on 3 sts. Row 33: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p2, sk2po, p6, p2tog, k1, RLI, k4, LLI, k1, ssp, p6, sk2po, p2. Row 34: K10, p8, k10, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 35: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 36: K4.


Chart B

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Chart C

CHART C Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p8, p2tog, [k1, yo] twice, kfb, p2, kfb, [yo, k1] twice, ssp, p8. Row 2 (WS): K9, p5, k4, p5, k9, p1tbl, k5, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 3: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 4: K4. Row 5: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p7, p2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, pfb, p2, pfb, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssp, p7. Row 6: K8, p7, k6, p7, k8, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 7: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 8: K4, cast on 3 sts. 64

Row 9: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p6, p2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, pfb, p4, pfb, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssp, p6. Row 10: K7, p9, k8, p9, k7, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 11: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 12: K4. Row 13: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p5, p2tog, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, pfb, p6, pfb, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, ssp, p5. Row 14: K6, p11, k10, p11, k6, p1tbl, k5, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 15: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 16: K4.


Row 17: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p4, ssp, ssk, k7, k2tog, pfb, p8, pfb, ssk, k7, k2tog, p2tog, p4. Row 18: K5, p9, k12, p9, k5, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 19: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 20: K4, cast on 3 sts. Row 21: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p3, ssp, ssk, k5, k2tog, pfb, p10, pfb, ssk, k5, k2tog, p2tog, p3. Row 22: K4, p7, k14, p7, k4, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 23: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 24: K4. Row 25: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p2, ssp, ssk, k3, k2tog, [pfb] twice, p10, [pfb] twice, ssk, k3, k2tog, p2tog, p2. Row 26: K3, p5, k18, p5, k3, p1tbl, k5, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 27: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 28: K4. Row 29: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p1, ssp, ssk, k1, k2tog, [pfb] twice, p14, [pfb] twice, ssk, k1, k2tog, p2tog, p1. Row 30: K2, p3, k22, p3, k2, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 31: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 32: K4, cast on 3 sts. Row 33: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p2, sk2po, p22, sk2po, p2. Row 34: K28, p1tbl, k5. Short Row 35: K2, yo, k2tog, w&t. Short Row 36: K4. Chart D

CHART D Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p2tog. Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p1tbl, k5, cast on 3 sts. Row 3: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k1, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p2tog. Row 4: Sl1, p1tbl, k5. Row 5: K2, yo, k2tog, k1, k1tbl, p2tog. Row 6: Sl1, p1tbl, k5. 65


Chart E

CHART E Row 1 (RS): P14, k1, 1/1/2 LPC, p9, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 2 (WS): K4, w&t. Short Row 3: K2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Row 4: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k4, p1tbl, k9, p2, k1, p2, k14. Row 5: P14, k2, p1, 2/1 LPC, p8, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 6: K4, w&t. Short Row 7: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 8: K5, p1tbl, k8, p2, k2, p2, k14. Row 9: P13, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p7, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. 66

Short Row 10: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k3, w&t. Short Row 11: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 12: K5, p1tbl, k7, p2, k4, p2, k13. Row 13: P13, k2, p4, 2/1 LPC, p6, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 14: K4, w&t. Short Row 15: K2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Row 16: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k4, p1tbl, k6, p2, k5, p2, k13. Row 17: P13, k2, p5, 2/1 LPC, p5, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 18: K4, w&t. Short Row 19: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 20: K5, p1tbl, k5, p2, k6, p2, k13.


Row 21: P13, k2, p6, 2/1Â LPC, p4, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 22: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k3, w&t. Short Row 23: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 24: K5, p1tbl, k4, p2, k7, p2, k13. Row 25: P11, p2tog, k1, LLI, RLI, k1, ssp, p4, pfb, k2tog, p4, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 26: K4, w&t. Short Row 27: K2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Row 28: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k4, p1tbl, k12, p4, k12.

Row 29: P10, p2tog, k1, RLI, k2, LLI, k1, ssp, p10, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 30: K4, w&t. Short Row 31: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 32: K5, p1tbl, k11, p6, k11. Row 33: P9, p2tog, k1, RLI, k4, LLI, k1, ssp, p9, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 34: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k3, w&t. Short Row 35: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 36: K5, p1tbl, k10, p8, k10.

Chart F

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CHART F Row 1 (RS): P8, p2tog, [k1, yo] twice, kfb, k2, kfb, [yo, k1] twice, ssp, p8, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 2 (WS): K4, w&t. Short Row 3: K2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Row 4: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k4, p1tbl, k9, p5, k1, p2, k1, p5, k9. Row 5: P7, p2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, [k2, kfb] twice, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssp, p7, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 6: K4, w&t. Short Row 7: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 8: K5, p1tbl, k8, p7, k2, p2, k2, p7, k8. Row 9: P6, p2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, pfb, p1, k2, p1, pfb, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssp, p6, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 10: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k3, w&t. Short Row 11: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 12: K5, p1tbl, k7, p9, k3, p2, k3, p9, k7. Row 13: P5, p2tog, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, pfb, p2, k2, p2, pfb, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, ssp, p5, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 14: K4, w&t. Short Row 15: K2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Row 16: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k4, p1tbl, k6, p11, k4, p2, k4, p11, k6. Row 17: P4, ssp, ssk, k7, k2tog, pfb, p3, k2, p3, pfb, ssk, k7, k2tog, p2tog, p4, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2.

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Short Row 18: K4, w&t. Short Row 19: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 20: K5, p1tbl, k5, p9, k5, p2, k5, p9, k5. Row 21: P3, ssp, ssk, k5, k2tog, pfb, p4, k2, p4, pfb, ssk, k5, k2tog, p2tog, p3, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 22: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k3, w&t. Short Row 23: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 24: K5, p1tbl, k4, p7, k6, p2, k6, p7, k4. Row 25: P2, ssp, ssk, k3, k2tog, pfb, p5, k1, LLI, RLI, k1, p5, pfb, ssk, k3, k2tog, p2tog, p2, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 26: K4, w&t. Short Row 27: K2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Row 28: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k4, p1tbl, k3, p5, k7, p4, k7, p5, k3. Row 29: P1, ssp, ssk, k1, k2tog, pfb, p6, k1, RLI, k2, LLI, k1, p6, pfb, ssk, k1, k2tog, p2tog, p1, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 30: K4, w&t. Short Row 31: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 32: K5, p1tbl, k2, p3, k8, p6, k8, p3, k2. Row 33: P2, sk2po, p6, p2tog, k1, RLI, k4, LLI, k1, ssp, p6, sk2po, p2, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 34: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k3, w&t. Short Row 35: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 36: K5, p1tbl, k10, p8, k10.


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Chart G

CHART G Row 1 (RS): P8, p2tog, [k1, yo] twice, kfb, p2, kfb, [yo, k1] twice, ssp, p8, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 2 (WS): K4, w&t. Short Row 3: K2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Row 4: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k4, p1tbl, k9, p5, k4, p5, k9. Row 5: P7, p2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, pfb, p2, pfb, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssp, p7, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 6: K4, w&t. 70

Short Row 7: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 8: K5, p1tbl, k8, p7, k6, p7, k8. Row 9: P6, p2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, pfb, p4, pfb, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssp, p6, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 10: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k3, w&t. Short Row 11: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 12: K5, p1tbl, k7, p9, k8, p9, k7. Row 13: P5, p2tog, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, pfb, p6, pfb, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, ssp, p5, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 14: K4, w&t.


Short Row 15: K2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Row 16: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k4, p1tbl, k6, p11, k10, p11, k6. Row 17: P4, ssp, ssk, k7, k2tog, pfb, p8, pfb, ssk, k7, k2tog, p2tog, p4, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 18: K4, w&t. Short Row 19: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 20: K5, p1tbl, k5, p9, k12, p9, k5. Row 21: P3, ssp, ssk, k5, k2tog, pfb, p10, pfb, ssk, k5, k2tog, p2tog, p3, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 22: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k3, w&t. Short Row 23: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 24: K5, p1tbl, k4, p7, k14, p7, k4. Row 25: P2, ssp, ssk, k3, k2tog, [pfb] twice, p10, [pfb] twice, ssk, k3, k2tog, p2tog, p2, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 26: K4, w&t. Short Row 27: K2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Row 28: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k4, p1tbl, k3, p5, k18, p5, k3. Row 29: P1, ssp, ssk, k1, k2tog, [pfb] twice, p14, [pfb] twice, ssk, k1, k2tog, p2tog, p1, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Short Row 30: K4, w&t. Short Row 31: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 32: K5, p1tbl, k2, p3, k22, p3, k2. Row 33: P2, sk2po, p22, sk2po, p2, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Short Row 34: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k3, w&t. Short Row 35: K2tog, yo, k2. Row 36: K5, p1tbl, k28. Row 37: P28, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2.

Chart H

CHART H Short Row 1 (WS): K4, w&t. Short Row 2 (RS): K2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Row 3: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k4, p1tbl, p2tog. Row 4: Sl1, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Row 5: K5, p1tbl, p2tog. Row 6: Sl1, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2. Row 7: K5, p1tbl, p2tog. Row 8: Sl1, k1tbl, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, cast on 3 sts. Row 9: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle), k4, p1tbl, p2tog. 71


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Temaricious

Temari is an ancient Japanese craft being revived and brought to the rest of the world by Rika Stein and Naho Sugahara of Japan. They were traditionally made by mothers using the leftover threads from kimonos wrapped around rice husk balls as toys for children. Temaricious’ hand-dyed cotton threads are dyed using plants from their family’s gardens in Tokyo. Their muted colours are adored at Loop for embroidery as well. Once a year they visit the shop to hold workshops in Temari embroidery- we’re very honoured they surprised us by creating a special palette inspired by the shop - ‘Islington’.

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OLD MAIDEN AUNT ‘THE ANGEL ISLINGTON’ Strong geometric lines form the basis of Isokon, a name that derives from a 1930’s architectural firm in England. Inspired by the Bauhaus, their work can still be seen on several houses in Hampstead, London. Ysolda has taken the modernist style to create these understated mitts, with clever

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shaping which follows the contours of the palm. By keeping the stitch pattern to a minimum, the space allows the alpaca based Old Maiden Aunt to bloom beautifully and show the full colour and quality of the yarn. The Angel Islington –The perfect Monopoly board blue.


Isokon By Ysolda Teague

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SIZE One size: To fit hands measuring 17-19cm / 7-8in around the knuckles YARN Old Maiden Aunt Alpaca Silk Sport (sportweight/light DK; 80% alpaca, 20% silk, 256m / 280yds per 100g skein) Shade: The Angel Islington x 1 skein NEEDLES & NOTIONS 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles suitable for working small circumferences in the round (DPNs or circular needle minimum 80cm (32in) length for magic loop technique) Stitch markers Cable needle Smooth waste yarn in a similar weight for holding stitches Tapestry needle TENSION 26 sts and 36 rows to 10cm (4in) over stocking stitch in the round on 3.25mm needles after blocking. Take time to check your tension and adjust the needle size as necessary to ensure an accurate finish. SPECIAL STITCHES 2/2 LC Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold at front, k2, k2 sts from cable needle. 2/2 RC Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold at back, k2, k2 sts from cable needle. PATTERN NOTES • This yarn can be worked on a smaller needle (2.75 or 3mm) to obtain a tighter tension and thus a smaller, finished mitt size. We do not recommend making the tension looser as the fabric will stretch slightly with wear.

PATTERN BEGINS RIGHT MITT Using the tubular method for 2x2 Rib (for best results), or an alternative stretchy method, cast on 52 sts. Join for working in the round taking care not to twist the sts and PM to indicate beginning of round. Round 1: [K2, p2] to end. Rep Round 1 a further 25 times. COMMENCE CHART Round 1: Reading from the Chart or Written Instructions for Right Mitt, work Row 1 of chart over next 30 sts, [p2, k2] 5 times, PM, p1, M1P, p1. 53 sts Round 2: Work Row 2 of chart over next 30 sts, [p2, k2] 5 times, SM, p3. Round 3: Work Row 3 of chart over next 30 sts, [p2, k2] 5 times, SM, p1, yo, p2. 54 sts Round 4: Work Row 4 of chart over next 30 sts, [p2, k2] 5 times, SM, p1, k1, p2. Working the next row of the chart with each consecutive round and working 2x2 rib as set, continue as follows: Round 5: Patt to marker, SM, p1, yo, k to 2 sts before end, p2. 1 st inc Round 6: Patt to marker, SM, p1, k to 2 sts before end, p2. Rep last 2 rounds a further 14 times ending with Row 34 of chart. 69 sts – 17 gusset sts inc Next round: Work next row of chart over first 30 sts, p2, place next 18 sts on waste yarn for thumb, using the backwards loop method, cast on 2 sts, remove marker, k2tog, k to 2 sts before end, p2. 52 sts Next round: Work next row of chart over first 30 sts, p2, k to 2 sts before end, p2. Last round sets patt. Continue in patt to end of chart. Work 2x2 Rib as set for cuff for 4 rounds. Cast off in rib using the Sewn Tubular method for best results.

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RIGHT MITT CHART – WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS (worked over 30 sts) Row 1: [K2, p2] 6 times, k2, 2/2 RC. Row 2: [K2, p2] 6 times, k6. Row 3: [K2, p2] 6 times, k1, k2tog, k3, yo. Row 4: [K2, p2] 6 times, k6. Row 5: [K2, p2] 6 times, k2tog, k3, yo, k1. Row 6: [K2, p2] 6 times, k6. Row 7: [K2, p2] 5 times, k2, p1, k2tog, k3, yo, k2. Row 8: [K2, p2] 5 times, k2, p1, k7. Row 9: [K2, p2] 5 times, k2, k2tog, k3, yo, k3. Row 10: [K2, p2] 5 times, k10. Row 11: [K2, p2] 5 times, k1, k2tog, k3, yo, k4. Row 12: [K2, p2] 5 times, k10. Row 13: [K2, p2] 5 times, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice. Row 14: [K2, p2] 5 times, k10. Row 15: [K2, p2] 4 times, k2, p1, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, k1. Row 16: [K2, p2] 4 times, k2, p1, k11. Row 17: 2/2 LC, [k2, p2] 3 times, k2, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, k2. Row 18: K6, [p2, k2] twice, p2, k14. Row 19: Yo, k3, ssk, k1, [p2, k2] twice, p2, k1, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, k3. Row 20: K6, [p2, k2] twice, p2, k14. Row 21: K1, yo, k3, ssk, [p2, k2] twice, p2, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, k4. Row 22: K6, [p2, k2] twice, p2, k14. Row 23: K2, yo, k3, ssk, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, [k2tog, k3, yo] 3 times. Row 24: K7, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k15. Row 25: K3, yo, k3, ssk, k2, p2, k2, [k2tog, k3, yo] 3 times, k1. Row 26: K10, p2, k18. Row 27: K4, yo, k3, ssk, k1, p2, k1, [k2tog, k3, yo] 3 times, k2. Row 28: K10, p2, k18. Row 29: [Yo, k3, ssk] twice, p2, [k2tog, k3, yo] 3 times, k3. Row 30: K10, p2, k18. Row 31: K1, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, p5, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, k4. Row 32: K11, p5, k14. Row 33: K2, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, p3, [k2tog, k3, yo] 3 times. Row 34: K12, p3, k14, p1. Row 35: K3, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, p6, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, p1. Row 36: K13, p6, k9, p2. Row 37: K4, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, p4, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, p2. Row 38: K14, p4, k9, p3. Row 39: [Yo, k3, ssk] 3 times, p7, k2tog, k3, yo, p3.

Right Mitt

knit

k2tog

purl

2/2 LC

yo

2/2 RC

ssk 77


Row 40: P1, k14, p7, k4, p4. Row 41: P1, [yo, k3, ssk] 3 times, p5, k2tog, k3, yo, p4. Row 42: P2, k14, p5, k4, p5. Row 43: P2, [yo, k3, ssk] 3 times, p13. Row 44: P3, k14, p13. Row 45: P3, [yo, k3, ssk] 3 times, p12. Row 46: P4, k14, p12. Row 47: P4, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, p16. Row 48: P5, k9, p16. Row 49: P5, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, p15. Row 50: P6, k9, p15. Row 51: P6, yo, k3, ssk, p19. Row 52: P7, k4, p19. Row 53: P7, yo, k3, ssk, p18. Row 54: P8, k4, p18. LEFT MITT Using the Tubular method for 2x2 Rib (for best results), or an alternative stretchy method, cast on 52 sts. Join for working in the round taking care not to twist the sts and PM to indicate beginning of round. Round 1: [P2, k2] to end. Rep Round 1 a further 25 times. COMMENCE CHART Round 1: P1, M1P, p1, PM, [k2, p2] 5 times, reading from the Chart or Written Instructions for Left Mitt, work Row 1 of chart over next 30 sts. 53 sts Round 2: P3, SM, [k2, p2] 5 times, work Row 2 of chart over next 30 sts. Round 3: P2, yo, p1, SM, [k2, p2] 5 times, work Row 3 of chart over next 30 sts. 54 sts Round 4: P2, k1, p1, SM, patt to end. Working the next row of the chart with each consecutive round and working 2x2 rib as set, continue as follows: Round 5: P2, k to 1 st before marker, yo, p1, SM, patt to end. 1 st inc Round 6: P2, k to 1 st before marker, p1, SM, patt to end. Rep last 2 rounds a further 14 times ending with Row 34 of chart. 69 sts – 17 gusset sts inc Next round: P2, k to 2 sts before marker, ssk, remove marker, place next 18 sts on waste yarn for thumb, using the backwards loop method, cast on 2 sts, patt to end. 52 sts 78

Next round: P2, k to last 32 sts, p2, work next row of chart over next 30 sts. Last round sets patt. Continue in patt to end of chart. Work 2x2 Rib as set for Left Mitt cuff for 4 rounds. Cast off in rib using the Sewn Tubular method for best results. LEFT MITT CHART – WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS (worked over 30 sts) Row 1: 2/2 LC, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2. Row 2: K6, [p2, k2] 6 times. Row 3: Yo, k3, ssk, k1, [p2, k2] 6 times. Row 4: K6, [p2, k2] 6 times. Row 5: K1, yo, k3, ssk, [p2, k2] 6 times. Row 6: K6, [p2, k2] 6 times. Row 7: K2, yo, k3, ssk, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k2. Row 8: K7, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k2. Row 9: K3, yo, k3, ssk, [k2, p2] 5 times, k2. Row 10: K10, [p2, k2] 5 times. Row 11: K4, yo, k3, ssk, k1, [p2, k2] 5 times. Row 12: K10, [p2, k2] 5 times. Row 13: [Yo, k3, ssk] twice, [p2, k2] 5 times. Row 14: K10, [p2, k2] 5 times. Row 15: K1, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, p1, [k2, p2] 4 times, k2. Row 16: K11, p1, [k2, p2] 4 times, k2. Row 17: K2, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, [k2, p2] 3 times, k2, 2/2 RC. Row 18: K14, [p2, k2] twice, p2, k6. Row 19: K3, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, k1, [p2, k2] twice, p2, k1, k2tog, k3, yo. Row 20: K14, [p2, k2] twice, p2, k6. Row 21: K4, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, [p2, k2] twice, p2, k2tog, k3, yo, k1. Row 22: K14, [p2, k2] twice, p2, k6. Row 23: [Yo, k3, ssk] 3 times, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2tog, k3, yo, k2. Row 24: K15, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k7. Row 25: K1, [yo, k3, ssk] 3 times, k2, p2, k2, k2tog, k3, yo, k3. Row 26: K18, p2, k10. Row 27: K2, [yo, k3, ssk] 3 times, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, k3, yo, k4. Row 28: K18, p2, k10. Row 29: K3, [yo, k3, ssk] 3 times, p2, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice.


Row 30: K18, p2, k10. Row 31: K4, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, p5, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, k1. Row 32: K14, p5, k11. Row 33: [Yo, k3, ssk] 3 times, p3, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, k2. Row 34: P1, k14, p3, k12. Row 35: P1, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, p6, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, k3. Row 36: P2, k9, p6, k13. Row 37: P2, [yo, k3, ssk] twice, p4, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, k4. Row 38: P3, k9, p4, k14. Row 39: P3, yo, k3, ssk, p7, [k2tog, k3, yo] 3 times. Row 40: P4, k4, p7, k14, p1. Row 41: P4, yo, k3, ssk, p5, [k2tog, k3, yo] 3 times, p1. Row 42: P5, k4, p5, k14, p2. Row 43: P13, [k2tog, k3, yo] 3 times, p2. Row 44: P13, k14, p3. Row 45: P12, [k2tog, k3, yo] 3 times, p3. Row 46: P12, k14, p4. Row 47: P16, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, p4. Row 48: P16, k9, p5. Row 49: P15, [k2tog, k3, yo] twice, p5. Row 50: P15, k9, p6. Row 51: P19, k2tog, k3, yo, p6. Row 52: P19, k4, p7. Row 53: P18, k2tog, k3, yo, p7. Row 54: P18, k4, p8.

Left Mitt

THUMBS (both alike) Return 18 held sts to needles. Join yarn, pick up and k4 sts across cast-on between held sts and join in the round. Work 2x2 Rib patt as set to 1 st before cast-on sts, ssk, PM to indicate beginning of round. Next round: P2, k2tog, k1, [p2, k2] to end. 20 sts Next round: [P2, k2] to end. Rep last round a further 3 times. Cast off in rib using the Sewn Tubular method for best results. FINISHING Weave in all ends and block, taking care not to overstretch the rib.

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Susan loves finding people making beautiful and unique things with textiles. Sophie Digard and Emily Maude, as seen opposite, are two of those creating exquisite things. Their hand crocheted necklaces and hand silkscreened lavender sachets (good to repel dreaded moths!) sit beneath our ‘Mignon’ cardigan knit in The Uncommon Thread Blue Faced Leicester Light DK in ‘Into Dust’. Above, a few views of the London shop spilling over with yarn, haberdashery, samples and swatches.

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JADE SAPPHIRE ‘CLOUD CUCKOO’ Taking her inspiration from artist Julie Arkell, Rachel has designed a scarf just as charming and unique as its namesake. Textured stitches, cables and Rachel’s much-loved bobbles create a trailing flower pattern while Jade Sapphire’s

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beautiful hand-dyed cashmere provides luscious softness. Arkell is constructed of two panels that are grafted together to ensure a balanced pattern, which can be accented by soft fringing to complete the scarf.


Arkell By Rachel Atkinson

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SIZE One size: 13.5cm (5¼in) wide x 255cm (100in) long, excluding fringe YARN Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 8-ply (aran/heavy worsted weight; 100% cashmere; 91m / 100yds per 55g skein) Shade: Cloud Cuckoo x 4 skeins NEEDLES & NOTIONS 5mm (UK 6/US 8) knitting needles 5mm (UK 6/US H/8) crochet hook for adding fringe Cable needle Stitch holder or waste yarn Tapestry needle Sharp scissors for trimming the fringe TENSION 1 panel repeat (35 sts and 28 rows) to measure 13.5 x 20cm (5¼ x 7¾in) after blocking. Work repeats of rows 15-42 of Chart A for the swatch. Take time to check your tension and adjust the needle size as necessary to ensure an accurate finish. SPECIAL STITCHES MB Make Bobble: [K1, p1] twice into next stitch, turn, k4, turn, slip 1 stitch, k3tog, pass slipped stitch over. 1/1 LC Slip next stitch to cable needle and hold at front of work, k1, then k1 from cable needle. 1/1 RC Slip next stitch to cable needle and hold at back of work, k1, then k1 from cable needle. 1/1 LPC Slip next stitch to cable needle and hold at front of work, p1, then k1 from cable needle. 1/1 RPC Slip next stitch to cable needle and hold at back of work, k1, then p1 from cable needle. 1/2 LC Slip next stitch to cable needle and hold at front of work, k2, then k1 from cable needle. 1/2 RC Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and hold at back of work, k1, then k2 from cable needle. 1/2 LPC Slip next stitch to cable needle and hold at front of work, p2, then k1 from cable needle. 1/2 RPC Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and hold at back of work, k1, then p2 from cable needle. 86

PATTERN NOTES • Due to the way the pattern repeat is set-up, one panel will be slightly longer than the other. • The length is adjustable by working fewer or more repeats of the main 28-row repeat – ensure you adjust each panel equally and the yarn quantity accordingly. PATTERN BEGINS PANEL 1 Using the cable cast-on method, cast on 35 sts. Row 1 (WS): Knit. If you want to add fringing to your scarf work the next row as follows, alternatively work as knit for no eyelets. Row 2 (Eyelets): K1, yo, k2tog, [k3, yo, k2tog] twice, [k4, yo, k2tog] twice, [k3, yo, k2tog] twice. Row 3 (WS): Knit.** Commence Chart A working rows 1-14 once, then the 28row repeat (rows 15-42) a total of 4 times. Work rows 1-42 only of Chart B. Do not cast off. Break yarn leaving a tail of at least 100cm (40in) length for grafting later. Place sts on hold. PANEL 2 Work as for Panel 1 to **. Commence Chart C working rows 1-14 once, then the 28-row repeat (rows 15-42) a total of 5 times. Work rows 15-43 only of Chart B. Do not cast off. JOIN PANELS With RS of panels together (WS facing you), graft the two panels together working regular Kitchener stitch across the knit stitches and grafting purlwise across the 3 stitch cable sections at each end and in the middle of the panels. For purlwise Kitchener stitch, work the front needle as for regular grafting, but on the back needle go through purl stitches in the opposite direction so work the first stitch knitwise and slip off needle, then go through the second stitch purlwise (do not slip it off the needle).


FINISHING Weave in ends and block gently to measurements threading blocking wires (or pinning) inside the cabled edges, working through the reverse stocking stitch fabric so the cabled edges are not stretched. Take care not to overstretch the scarf and sit the bobbles up so they stand proud of the fabric to show off the texture.

FRINGE Make this as long or as short as you like; by dividing the remaining yarn into 14 equal lengths then folded each length four times. Using the crochet hook pull the yarn through each eyelet and then back into itself to secure. With a sharp pair of scissors, the fringe was then trimmed to approximately 10cm (4in) length.

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CHARTS – WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS CHART A Row 1 (RS): 1/1 RC, k1, p13, 1/1 RC, k1, p1, 1/1 LPC, p10, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 2 (WS): P3, k10, p1, k2, p3, k13, p3. Row 3: K1, 1/1 LC, p12, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p2, 1/1 LPC, p9, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 4: P3, k9, p1, k3, p4, k12, p3. Row 5: 1/1 RC, k1, p11, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 RC, k1, p3, 1/1 LC, p8, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 6: P3, k8, p2, k3, p3, k1, p1, k11, p3. Row 7: K1, 1/1 LC, p9, 1/2 RPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC, p2, 1/1 RPC, 1/2 LC, p6, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 8: P3, k6, p5, k2, p3, k3, p1, k9, p3. Row 9: 1/1 RC, k1, p8, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RC, [k1, p2] twice, k1, yo, ssk, p5, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 10: P3, k5, p6, k2, p3, k3, MB, p1, k8, p3. Row 11: K1, 1/1 LC, p7, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p2, k1, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p4, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 12: P3, k4, p7, k2, p4, k3, MB, p1, k7, p3. Row 13: 1/1 RC, k1, p6, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 RC, k1, p2, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p3, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 14: P3, k3, p7, k3, p3, k1, p1, k3, MB, p1, k6, p3. Row 15: K1, 1/1 LC, p5, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC, p3, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p2, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 16: P3, k2, p7, k4, p3, k2, p1, k3, MB, p1, k5, p3. Row 17: 1/1 RC, k1, p4, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RPC, p2, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p3, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 18: P3, k1, p7, k4, p4, k3, p1, k3, MB, p1, k4, p3. Row 19: K1, 1/1 LC, p3, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RC, p3, k1, 1/1 LC, [1/1 LPC, p3] twice, yo, k2tog, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 20: P3, k1, p6, k4, p1, k1, p3, k3, p2, k4, p1, k3, p3. Row 21: 1/1 RC, k1, p6, 1/2 RC, 1/1 LPC, p2, 1/1 RC, k1, p1, 1/2 LPC, p2, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 22: P3, k1, p5, k3, p1, k3, p3, k2, p5, k6, p3. Row 23: K1, 1/1 LC, p5, k2tog, yo, [k1, p2] twice, k1, 1/1 LC, p3, yo, ssk, p2, 1/2 LPC, p1, k1, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 24: P3, k1, p3, k4, p1, MB, k3, p3, k2, p6, k5, p3. Row 25: 1/1 RC, k1, p4, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, k1, p2, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p3, yo, ssk, p3, 1/2 LPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 26: P3, k1, p2, k4, p1, MB, k3, p4, k2, p7, k4, p3. Row 27: K1, 1/1 LC, p3, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p2, k1, 1/1 LC, 1/1 LPC, p3, yo, ssk, p3, 1/1 LPC, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. 88

Row 28: P3, k1, p1, k4, p1, MB, k3, p1, k1, p3, k3, p7, k3, p3. Row 29: 1/1 RC, k1, p2, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p3, 1/1 RC, k1, p1, 1/1 LPC, p3, yo, ssk, p5, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 30: P3, k5, p1, MB, k3, p1, k2, p3, k4, p7, k2, p3. Row 31: K1, 1/1 LC, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p3, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p2, 1/1 LPC, p3, yo, ssk, p4, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 32: P3, k4, p1, MB, k3, p1, k3, p4, k4, p7, k1, p3. Row 33: 1/1 RC, k1, p1, ssk, yo, [p3, 1/1 RPC] twice, 1/1 RC, k1, p3, 1/1 LC, p3, yo, ssk, p3, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 34: P3, k3, p1, k4, p2, k3, p3, k1, p1, k4, p6, k1, p3. Row 35: K1, 1/1 LC, p1, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p2, 1/2 RPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC, p2, 1/1 RPC, 1/2 LC, p6, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 36: P3, k6, p5, k2, p3, k3, p1, k3, p5, k1, p3. Row 37: 1/1 RC, [k1, p1] twice, 1/2 RPC, p2, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RC, [k1, p2] twice, k1, yo, ssk, p5, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 38: P3, k5, p6, k2, p3, k3, MB, p1, k4, p3, k1, p3. Row 39: K1, 1/1 LC, p1, 1/2 RPC, p3, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p2, k1, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p4, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 40: P3, k4, p7, k2, p4, k3, MB, p1, k4, p2, k1, p3. Row 41: 1/1 RC, k1, p1, 1/1 RPC, p3, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 RC, k1, p2, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p3, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 42: P3, k3, p7, k3, p3, k1, p1, k3, MB, p1, k4, p1, k1, p3.


Chart A RS: knit WS: purl RS: purl WS: knit yo ssk k2tog MB 1/1 LC 1/1 RC 1/1 LPC 1/1 RPC 1/2 LC 1/2 RC 1/2 LPC 1/2 RPC Repeat

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CHART B Row 1 (RS): K1, 1/1 LC, p5, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC, p3, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p2, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 2 (WS): P3, k2, p7, k4, p3, k2, p1, k3, MB, p1, k5, p3. Row 3: 1/1 RC, k1, p4, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RPC, p2, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p3, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 4: P3, k1, p7, k4, p4, k3, p1, k3, MB, p1, k4, p3. Row 5: K1, 1/1 LC, p3, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RC, p3, k1, 1/1 LC, [1/1 LPC, p3] twice, yo, k2tog, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 6: P3, k1, p6, k4, p1, k1, p3, k3, p2, k4, p1, k3, p3. Row 7: 1/1 RC, k1, p6, 1/2 RC, 1/1 LPC, p2, 1/1 RC, k1, p1, 1/2 LPC, p2, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 8: P3, k1, p5, k3, p1, k3, p3, k2, p5, k6, p3. Row 9: K1, 1/1 LC, p5, k2tog, yo, [k1, p2] twice, k1, 1/1 LC, p3, yo, ssk, p2, 1/2 LPC, p1, k1, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 10: P3, k1, p3, k4, p1, MB, k3, p3, k2, p6, k5, p3. Row 11: 1/1 RC, k1, p4, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, k1, p2, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p3, yo, ssk, p3, 1/2 LPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 12: P3, k1, p2, k4, p1, MB, k3, p4, k2, p7, k4, p3. Row 13: K1, 1/1 LC, p3, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p2, k1, 1/1 LC, 1/1 LPC, p3, yo, ssk, p3, 1/1 LPC, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 14: P3, k1, p1, k4, p1, MB, k3, p1, k1, p3, k3, p7, k3, p3.

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Row 15: 1/1 RC, k1, p2, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p3, 1/1 RC, k1, p1, 1/1 LPC, p3, yo, ssk, p5, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 16: P3, k5, p1, MB, k3, p1, k2, p3, k4, p7, k2, p3. Row 17: K1, 1/1 LC, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p3, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p2, 1/1 LPC, p3, yo, ssk, p4, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 18: P3, k4, p1, MB, k3, p1, k3, p4, k4, p7, k1, p3. Row 19: 1/1 RC, k1, p1, ssk, yo, [p3, 1/1 RPC] twice, 1/1 RC, k1, p3, 1/1 LC, p3, yo, ssk, p3, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 20: P3, k3, p1, k4, p2, k3, p3, k1, p1, k4, p6, k1, p3. Row 21: K1, 1/1 LC, p1, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p2, 1/2 RPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC, p2, 1/1 RPC, 1/2 LC, p6, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 22: P3, k6, p5, k2, p3, k3, p1, k3, p5, k1, p3. Row 23: 1/1 RC, [k1, p1] twice, 1/2 RPC, p2, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RC, [k1, p2] twice, k1, yo, ssk, p5, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 24: P3, k5, p6, k2, p3, k3, MB, p1, k4, p3, k1, p3. Row 25: K1, 1/1 LC, p1, 1/2 RPC, p3, k2tog, yo, p4, k1, 1/1 LC, p2, k1, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p4, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 26: P3, k4, p7, k2, p3, k4, MB, p1, k4, p2, k1, p3. Row 27: 1/1 RC, k1, p1, 1/1 RPC, p3, k2tog, yo, p5, 1/1 RC, k1, p2, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p3, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 28: P3, k3, p7, k3, p3, k5, MB, p1, k4, p1, k1, p3. Row 29: K1, 1/1 LC, p5, k2tog, yo, p6, k1, 1/1 LC, p3, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p2, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 30: P3, k2, p7, k4, p3, k6, MB, p1, k5, p3. Row 31: 1/1 RC, k1, p4, k2tog, yo, p7, 1/1 RC, k1, p4, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 32: P3, k1, p7, k5, p3, k7, MB, p1, k4, p3. Row 33: K1, 1/1 LC, p3, k2tog, yo, p8, k1, 1/1 LC, p5, 1/1 LPC, p3, yo, k2tog, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 34: P3, k1, p6, k6, p3, k9, p1, k3, p3. Row 35: 1/1 RC, k1, p13, 1/1 RC, k1, p6, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, p1, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 36: P3, k1, p5, k7, p3, k13, p3. Row 37: K1, 1/1 LC, p13, k1, 1/1 LC, p7, 1/2 LPC, p1, k1, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 38: P3, k1, p3, k9, p3, k13, p3. Row 39: 1/1 RC, k1, p13, 1/1 RC, k1, p9, 1/2 LPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 40: P3, k1, p2, k10, p3, k13, p3. Row 41: K1, 1/1 LC, p13, k1, 1/1 LC, p10, 1/1 LPC, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 42: [P3, k13] twice, p3. Row 43: [1/1 RC, k1, p13] twice, k1, 1/1 LC.


Chart B

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CHART C Row 1 (RS): 1/1 RC, k1, p10, 1/1 RPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC, p13, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 2 (WS): P3, k13, p3, k2, p1, k10, p3. Row 3: K1, 1/1 LC, p9, 1/1 RPC, p2, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p12, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 4: P3, k12, p4, k3, p1, k9, p3. Row 5: 1/1 RC, k1, p8, 1/1 RC, p3, k1, 1/1 LC, 1/1 LPC, p11, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 6: P3, k11, p1, k1, p3, k3, p2, k8, p3. Row 7: K1, 1/1 LC, p6, 1/2 RC, 1/1 LPC, p2, 1/1 RC, k1, p1, 1/2 LPC, p9, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 8: P3, k9, p1, k3, p3, k2, p5, k6, p3. Row 9: 1/1 RC, k1, p5, k2tog, yo, [k1, p2] twice, k1, 1/1 LC, p3, yo, ssk, p8, k1, 1/1 RC. Row 10: P3, k8, p1, MB, k3, p3, k2, p6, k5, p3. Row 11: K1, 1/1 LC, p4, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, k1, p2, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p3, yo, ssk, p7, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 12: P3, k7, p1, MB, k3, p4, k2, p7, k4, p3. Row 13: 1/1 RC, k1, p3, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p2, k1, 1/1 LC, 1/1 LPC, p3, yo, ssk, p6, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 14: P3, k6, p1, MB, k3, p1, k1, p3, k3, p7, k3, p3. Row 15: K1, 1/1 LC, p2, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p3, 1/1 RC, k1, p1, 1/1 LPC, p3, yo, ssk, p5, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 16: P3, k5, p1, MB, k3, p1, k2, p3, k4, p7, k2, p3. Row 17: 1/1 RC, k1, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p3, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p2, 1/1 LPC, p3, yo, ssk, p4, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 18: P3, k4, p1, MB, k3, p1, k3, p4, k4, p7, k1, p3. Row 19: K1, 1/1 LC, p1, ssk, yo, [p3, 1/1 RPC] twice, 1/1 RC, k1, p3, 1/1 LC, p3, yo, ssk, p3, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 20: P3, k3, p1, k4, p2, k3, p3, k1, p1, k4, p6, k1, p3. Row 21: 1/1 RC, k1, p1, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p2, 1/2 RPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC, p2, 1/1 RPC, 1/2 LC, p6, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 22: P3, k6, p5, k2, p3, k3, p1, k3, p5, k1, p3. Row 23: K1, 1/1 LC, p1, k1, p1, 1/2 RPC, p2, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RC, [k1, p2] twice, k1, yo, ssk, p5, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 24: P3, k5, p6, k2, p3, k3, MB, p1, k4, p3, k1, p3. Row 25: 1/1 RC, k1, p1, 1/2 RPC, p3, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p2, k1, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p4, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 26: P3, k4, p7, k2, p4, k3, MB, p1, k4, p2, k1, p3. Row 27: K1, 1/1 LC, p1, 1/1 RPC, p3, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 RC, k1, p2, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p3, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 28: P3, k3, p7, k3, p3, k1, p1, k3, MB, p1, k4, p1, k1, p3. 92

Row 29: 1/1 RC, k1, p5, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC, p3, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p2, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 30: P3, k2, p7, k4, p3, k2, p1, k3, MB, p1, k5, p3. Row 31: K1, 1/1 LC, p4, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RPC, p2, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p3, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, yo, ssk, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 32: P3, k1, p7, k4, p4, k3, p1, k3, MB, p1, k4, p3. Row 33: 1/1 RC, k1, p3, k2tog, yo, p3, 1/1 RC, p3, k1, 1/1 LC, [1/1 LPC, p3] twice, yo, k2tog, p1, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 34: P3, k1, p6, k4, p1, k1, p3, k3, p2, k4, p1, k3, p3. Row 35: K1, 1/1 LC, p6, 1/2 RC, 1/1 LPC, p2, 1/1 RC, k1, p1, 1/2 LPC, p2, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 36: P3, k1, p5, k3, p1, k3, p3, k2, p5, k6, p3. Row 37: 1/1 RC, k1, p5, k2tog, yo, [k1, p2] twice, k1, 1/1 LC, p3, yo, ssk, p2, 1/2 LPC, [p1, k1] twice, 1/1 LC. Row 38: P3, k1, p3, k4, p1, MB, k3, p3, k2, p6, k5, p3. Row 39: K1, 1/1 LC, p4, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, k1, p2, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, p3, yo, ssk, p3, 1/2 LPC, p1, 1/1 RC, k1. Row 40: P3, k1, p2, k4, p1, MB, k3, p4, k2, p7, k4, p3. Row 41: 1/1 RC, k1, p3, k2tog, yo, k1, p3, 1/1 RPC, p2, k1, 1/1 LC, 1/1 LPC, p3, yo, ssk, p3, 1/1 LPC, p1, k1, 1/1 LC. Row 42: P3, k1, p1, k4, p1, MB, k3, p1, k1, p3, k3, p7, k3, p3.


Chart C

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Beautiful and useful vintage and handmade haberdashery from needles and scissors to bundles of french linen lace, buttons and ribbons in the shop

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THE UNCOMMON THREAD ‘TURBILLION’ WITH PIGEONROOF STUDIOS An ideal beginners project for those who know a little knitting, a little crochet and now fancy dabbling in a little embroidery! These easy mitts are edged with simple crochet, and provide a blank canvas for what

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Tif calls a ‘woolly tattoo’. Adorn your plain knits with a special motif and find a home for precious scraps. Use our template provided or experiment with your own arrangement of petals and tendrils.


Rosemaling Mittens By Tif Fussell

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SIZES 1 (2, 3) Finished circumference: 17 (19, 21)cm / 6¾ (7½, 8¼)in circumference Finished length: 19 (19, 20.5)cm / 7½ (7½, 8)in YARN MITT: The Uncommon Thread Lush Worsted (worsted weight; 80% superwash merino wool, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 212m / 231yds per 100g skein) Shade: Turbillion x 1 skein For the Woolly Tattoo: Pigeonroof Studios Mini Skein Set (4ply/fingering weight; 100% superwash merino wool; 37m / 40yds per mini skein – 222m / 240yds per set) Shade: Pistachio x 1 set Plus other odds and ends of 4ply/Fingering weight yarn from stash NEEDLES & NOTIONS 4.5mm (UK 7/US 7) knitting needles 4mm (UK 8/US G/6) crochet hook Tapestry needle for seaming Sharp tapestry needle for embroidery TENSION 18 sts and 28 rows to 10cm (4in) over reverse stocking stitch on 4.5mm needles after blocking. Take time to check your tension and adjust the needle size as necessary to ensure an accurate finish. SPECIAL STITCHES Picot 2ch, sl st in second chain from hook (picot made) Embroidery Long and short satin stitch, lazy daisy stitch, French knots and couching

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PATTERN NOTES • The mitts are worked flat and finished with a crocheted picot edging, before seaming and blocking with the embroidery added afterwards. PATTERN BEGINS MITTS (make 2 alike) Using the long-tail, or other stretchy method, and leaving a good length for seaming later, cast on 33 (36, 39) sts. Row 1 (RS): [K2, p1] to end. Row 2 (WS): [K1, p2] to end. Rep Rows 1 and 2 a further 7 times, then work Row 1 only once again (17 rows of rib worked). MITT BODY Row 1 (WS): Knit. Row 2 (RS): Purl. Rep Rows 1 and 2 a further 13 (13, 15) times (28 (28, 32) rows of reverse St-st worked). Loosely cast off knitwise until 1 st remains. Do not break yarn. Remove stitch from needle and place on crochet hook. CROCHET PICOT EDGING Turn your work so RS is facing and continue as follows: Row 1 (RS): 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in top of each st along cast-off edge to end, turn. 33 (36, 39) sts Row 2 (WS): 1ch, [1dc in each of next 3 sts, picot] to end. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing up the side seam. Repeat to make second mitt. MAKING UP Fold in half with reverse St-st on the outside (WS together). Thread the tapestry needle with the cast-on tail at the cuff, and using mattress stitch, seam the two edges together to where you want the thumb hole to start – approximately 10cm (4in), but try it on as you go. Finish off securely. Thread the tapestry needle with the cast-off tail and seam from the top of the mitt downward to the top of the thumbhole – approximately 4cm (1½in), again, trying the mitt on for size as you go. Finish off securely and block to measurements taking care not to overstretch the rib and leaving to dry thoroughly.


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EMBROIDERING THE WOOLLY TATTOO Tips & Tricks: • Place a piece of cardboard in-between the layers of the mitt before beginning to avoid stitching through both layers. • Build up the shades of the green petals in several layers. • Do not pull stitches too tightly as the mitts need to remain stretchy for putting on, but do not leave stitches too loose or they will catch when worn. • Securely finish off with several over stitches and a little knot on the inside of the mitt. • Work on both mitts at the same time to ensure the woolly tattoos are the same. For embroidery tips see page 141 in the techniques section.

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Make two copies of the leaf template and pin in place on mitts, looking at the pictures for guidance. Take the darkest colour yarn and, starting with the green petals, use running stitch to transfer an outline of the stencil onto the fabric; repeat for the second mitt. Remove stencil and with care, using long and short satin stitch, fill in part of the petals. Change to the next lighter colour yarn and add more stitches, continuing in this way until a layer from dark to light, of long and short stitches, fills in all the petals and covers the outline running stitches. Following the photograph, create two branches using couch stitch and then add several little leaves with lazy daisy stitches along the branches. Fill in the lazy daisy stitches with a contrasting colour and a single straight stitch. Finally, in-between the green petals, place clusters or singles of lazy daisy stitches in a contrasting colour and also a cluster at the end of the branch furthest from the thumbhole. Weave in and trim any remaining ends.


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Whimsy Garlands Designed by Rachel Atkinson and shown here crocheted in DyeForYarn ‘Golden Beehive’, these Whimsy Garlands are a beautiful way to play with colour, bits of leftover yarn, and to practice different motifs.

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SIZE Finished Motif Measurements: 2.5–6.5cm (1–2½in) diameter YARN An assortment of 4ply/fingering, DK/light worsted and aran/ heavy worsted weight yarns NEEDLES & NOTIONS 2.5mm (UK 12/US B/1) crochet hook for the garland chain 3mm (UK 11/US C/2-D/3) crochet hook for 4ply/fingering weight yarns 4mm (UK 8/US G/6) crochet hook for DK/light worsted weight yarns 4.5mm (UK 7/US 7) crochet hook for aran/heavy worsted weight yarns Tapestry needle TENSION Not crucial for this pattern but adjust the hook size to produce a firm fabric that will hold its shape for the motif. PATTERN NOTES * UK crochet terms used throughout.

PATTERN BEGINS Pick and mix from the 9 motif patterns, working with different weight yarns to create varying sizes and quantities, and making as many as you like.

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1 6-petal flower Make a magic ring. Round 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 11tr into the ring, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of 3ch. 12 sts Round 2: 1ch, 2dc in same st, 2dc in each st around, join with a sl st in first dc. Round 3: [Miss 1 st, 5tr in next st, miss 1 st, sl st in next st] 6 times, join with a sl st in sl st from previous round. Fasten off, close the magic ring tightly by pulling the yarn end and weave in ends. 2 Tiny 6-petal flower Make a magic ring. Round 1: Working into the ring, 1ch, [1dc, 3ch, 1tr, 3ch] 6 times, join with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off, close the magic ring tightly by pulling the yarn end and weave in ends. 3 5-petal lazy daisy Make a magic ring. Round 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 19tr into the ring, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of 3ch. 20 sts Round 2: *Miss 1 st, 5tr in next st, miss 1 st, sl st in next st; rep from * around, join with a sl st in sl st from previous round. Fasten off, close the magic ring tightly by pulling the yarn end and weave in ends.


4 Cog Wheel SPECIAL STITCHES Picot [4ch, sl st in 4th ch from hook] Make 8ch and join with a sl st in first ch to make a ring. Round 1: 1ch, 16dc in ring, join with a sl st in first dc. 16 sts Round 2: 1ch, [1dc in next st, picot, miss next st] 8 times, join with a sl st in first st. Fasten off and weave in ends. 5 Heart Make a magic ring. Round 1: 33ch (counts as 1tr), 15tr into the ring, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of 3ch. 16 sts Round 2: 3ch, 1tr in next st, 4dtr in next st, 2tr in next st, 1htr in each of next 4 sts, 3tr in next st, 1htr in each of next 4 sts, 2tr in next st, 4dtr in next st, 1tr in each of next 2 sts, join with a sl st at base of 3ch. Fasten off, close the magic ring tightly by pulling the yarn end and weave in ends.

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6 Star Make a magic ring. Round 1: 1ch, 10dc into the ring, join with a sl st in first dc. 10 sts Round 2: [4ch, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1htr in next ch, 1tr in next ch, miss next st, sl st in next st] 5 times, working last sl st in sl st from previous round to join. Fasten off, close the magic ring tightly by pulling the yarn end and weave in ends. 7 Flower in a flower SPECIAL STITCHES 3-trtr puff st *[yoh] 3 times, insert hook in next sp, yoh, draw up a loop, [yo, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook] 3 times; rep from * twice more in same sp, yoh, draw through 4 loops on hook. 4-trtr puff st *[yoh] 3 times, insert hook in next sp, yoh, draw up a loop, [yo, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook] 3 times; rep from * a further 3 times in same sp, yoh, draw through 5 loops on hook. 4-dtr puff st *[yoh] twice, insert hook in next sp, yoh, draw up a loop, [yo, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook] twice; rep from * a further 3 times in same sp, yoh, draw through 5 loops on hook. Make 6ch and join with a sl st in first ch to make a ring. Round 1: 5ch (counts as 1trtr), 3-trtr puff st in ring, 5ch, [4-trtr puff st, 5ch] 5 times in ring, sl st in top of first puff st to join. Round 2: 1ch (does not count as st), *1sc, in puff st, 4ch, 4-dtr puff st in next 5ch-sp, 4ch; rep from * around, join with a sl st in first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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8 Clover Make 6ch and join with a sl st in first ch to make a ring. Round 1: Work [2ch, 2tr, 1ch, 2tr, 2ch, sl st] 4 times into ring, working last sl st in sl st of ring. Fasten off and weave in ends. 9 Pointed 5-petal flower SPECIAL STITCHES Puff st *[yoh] twice, insert hook in next dc, yoh, draw up a loop, [yo, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook] twice; rep from * twice more in same dc, yoh, draw through 4 loops on hook. Picot [2ch, sl st in second ch from hook] Make a magic ring. Round 1: 1ch, 10dc into the ring, join with a sl st in first dc. 10 sts Round 2: [4ch, puff st in next st, picot, 4ch, sl st in next st] 5 times, working last sl st in sl st from previous round to join. Fasten off, close the magic ring tightly by pulling the yarn end and weave in ends.

FINISHING Weave in all ends and steam block the motifs. Arrange them in the order you want them to be on the garland, or work freestyle and place them as you go. You can position the motifs as close together or far apart as you like, the following is just a guide: Using the 2.5mm hook and a 4ply/Fingering weight yarn, make 20ch, join with a sl st in first ch to create a hanging loop, 20ch, sl st through a stitch on the outer edge of the first motif, *20ch, sl st through a stitch on the outer edge of the next motif; rep from * until all motifs are joined, work 40ch, sl st in the 20th ch from hook to make the second hanging loop. Weave in any remaining ends.

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Koigu Ripple Scarf Ripple Scarf is one the many beautiful free patterns to be found on Loop’s blog LoopKnitLounge.com Designed by Juju Vail for Loop, using 2-4 skeins of Koigu, depending on the width and length you want to achieve. Shown here in the larger size using ‘Loopettes’ (P756), bespoke for Loop and 2504.

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SHILASDAIR ‘HIGHLAND TWYLIGHT’ When crisp and blustery days are around the corner, knitters know the happiness of being wrapped in a handknit shawl. And that’s exactly what Paulina thought as she designed and cast her mind forward to autumn evenings. This sizable wrap is made extra snug with the distinctive Shilasdair

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fibre blend that includes angora, cashmere and camel. Shilasdair specialise in using natural dyes to create rich semi-solids and now we have our own shade, created from logwood to create a shifting grey with purple hues. Twylight – Deep in the gloaming of the Skye countryside.


Autumn Leaf By Paulina Popiolek

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SIZE One size: 140cm (55in) wide x 61cm (24in) deep YARN Shilasdair Luxury 4ply (4ply/fingering weight; 40% lambswool, 40% angora, 10% baby camel, 10% cashmere; 200m / 220yds per 50g skein) Shade: Highland Twylight x 3 skeins NEEDLES & NOTIONS 4mm (UK 8/US 6) circular needle, 80cm (32in) length 2mm (UK 14/US B/1) crochet hook for provisional cast on and finishing Smooth waste yarn in a similar weight for cast on and holding stitches Stitch marker Tapestry needle Note: The lace border can be worked on straight knitting needles, but a circular needle is required for the main body of the shawl. TENSION 15 sts and 26 rows to 10cm (4in) over garter st on 4mm needles after blocking. Take time to check your tension and adjust the needle size as necessary to ensure an accurate finish. PATTERN NOTES • The lace border is worked first, stitches are then picked up along the edge for the body, before working bottom-up in short rows to create the crescent shape. • The shawl is easy to size up or down by working fewer or more repeats of the lace border. The number of stitches picked up for the main panel will depend on number of rows worked for the border (1 stitch for every 2 rows) and marker should be placed at halfway point. Work main body of shawl according to instructions and adjust yarn quantities accordingly.

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PATTERN BEGINS LACE BORDER Using the provisional crochet cast on, or alternative provisional method, cast on 26 sts. Purl 1 row. Working from the Chart or Written Instructions, work Rows 1-12 of Lace Border a total of 42 times. Do not break yarn. Place sts on hold by slipping them onto waste yarn. LACE BORDER CHART – WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS Row 1 (RS): Sl1 pwise wyif, p1, yo, ssk, p2, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, p2, yo, k2, ssk, k2, p2, k1tbl, p1, kfb, yo, kfb. 29 sts Row 2 (WS): K6, p1tbl, [k2, p6] twice, k2, p2, k2. Row 3: Sl1 pwise wyif, p1, yo, ssk, p2, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, p2, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1, p2, k1tbl, p1, k5. Row 4: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle from cast off), k2, p1tbl, [k2, p6] twice, k2, p2, k2. 26 sts Row 5: Sl1 pwise wyif, p1, yo, ssk, p2, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, p2, k2, yo, k2, ssk, p2, k1tbl, p1, kfb, yo, kfb. 29 sts Row 6: K6, p1tbl, [k2, p6] twice, k2, p2, k2. Row 7: Sl1 pwise wyif, p1, yo, ssk, p2, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, p2, yo, k2, ssk, k2, p2, k1tbl, p1, k5. Row 8: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle from cast off), k2, p1tbl, [k2, p6] twice, k2, p2, k2. 26 sts Row 9: Sl1 pwise wyif, p1, yo, ssk, p2, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, p2, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1, p2, k1tbl, p1, kfb, yo, kfb. 29 sts Row 10: K6, p1tbl, [k2, p6] twice, k2, p2, k2. Row 11: Sl1 pwise wyif, p1, yo, ssk, p2, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, p2, k2, yo, k2, ssk, p2, k1tbl, p1, k5. Row 12: Cast off 3 sts (1 st on RH needle from cast off), k2, p1tbl, [k2, p6] twice, k2, p2, k2. 26 sts MAIN BODY With WS of lace border facing, pick up and k252 sts in the slipped sts down the long edge of the panel, placing a marker between sts 126 and 127. Working in short rows, and from Row 3 onward, picking up and working the wrap with its st when you come to it, continue as follows: Short row 1 (RS): K to marker, SM, k9, w&t. Short row 2 (WS): [K1, p1] to 9 sts past marker, w&t. Short row 3: K to one st past wrapped st, w&t.


Lace Border RS: knit WS: purl RS: purl WS: knit RS: k1tbl WS: p1tbl sl1 pwise wyif yo kfb ssk k2tog cast off St on needle after cast off

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Short row 4: [K1, p1] to one st past wrapped st, w&t. Rep Short rows 3 and 4 until one st remains on either side of the row, ending with a WS row and removing the marker on the final row. TOP BORDER Row 1 (RS): K to end, PM, unzip provisional cast-on and place the 26 sts on the needle, k to last 2 sts, kfb, yo, kfb. 281 sts Row 2 (WS): K6, p to marker, SM, pattern across all body sts as established by previous rows (picking up the last wraps as you come to them), slip the other set of 26 sts onto the needle, purl to last 2 sts, kfb, yo, kfb. 310 sts Row 3 (short row): K5, w&t. Row 4: K5. Row 5: Cast off knitwise to last 5 sts, k to end. 6 sts remain on the needle Row 6: Cast off 5 sts knitwise, but don’t fasten off last st and slip it onto the crochet hook. 1 st remains Make 1 chain and work reverse double crochet (US single crochet) along the top edge, working through the top half of each cast-off stitch and ending at the base of the first border tooth. Fasten off last stitch. FINISHING Weave in all ends and block to measurements shaping the Lace Border into a crescent.

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Autumn Leaf shawls knit in Shilasdair colours ‘Autumn Leaves’ (on top) and ‘Highland Twylight’. 119


JADE SAPPHIRE ‘OH SWEETIE PIE’ Claire’s design began with her memories of knitting a capelet sample for the shop in the very early days of Loop (which then lead to her securing the place as the first Loopette!) She recalls how she saw so many customers wearing different versions of the pattern, and so knew the versatility and the current trend of ponchos would

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make this vintage style ice-skater cape an appropriate pattern for the book. With her young daughter in mind, Claire has also sized ‘Sweetie Pie’ for children too. The bold fair-isle design makes this a good first colourwork project. Matched with the buttery softness of Jade Sapphire hand-dyed cashmere, it’s the ultimate winter accessory.


Sweetie Pie Capelet By Claire Montgomerie

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SIZES 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7) To fit: Size 1: 2-5 years, Size 2: 6-12 years, Sizes 3-7: Adult sizes XS-XL Measure around the chest and arms just below shoulders, and allow at least 5cm (2in) positive ease when choosing size. Finished measurements: 90 (99, 108, 117, 126, 135, 144) cm / 35½ (39, 42½, 46, 49½, 53, 56½)in around chest and shoulders Length: 30 (30.5, 31, 32.5, 35.5, 36.5, 37)cm / 11¾ (12, 12¼, 12¾, 14, 14¼, 14½)in YARN Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 8-ply (aran weight; 100% cashmere; 91m / 100yds per 55g skein) MC: Oh Sweetie Pie x 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins CC: Deep Plum (57) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) skeins NEEDLES & NOTIONS 4.5mm (UK 7/US 7) circular needle, 60-80cm (24-32in) length 4.5mm (UK 7/US 7) circular needle, 40cm (16in) length 5mm (UK 6/US 8) circular needle, 60-80cm (24-32in) length 5mm (UK 6/US 8) circular needle, 40cm (16in) length Stitch marker Tapestry needle TENSION 18 sts and 28 rows to 10cm (4in) over stocking stitch on 5mm needle after blocking. Take time to check your tension and adjust the needle size as necessary to ensure an accurate finish. PATTERN NOTES • Follow chart from bottom right hand corner, and work from right to left each row. • Work decreases where indicated.

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PATTERN BEGINS Using the longer length 4.5mm circular needle and MC, cast on 160 (176, 192, 208, 224, 240, 256) sts. Join for working in the round taking care not to twist the sts and PM to indicate beginning of round. Round 1: [K1, p1] around. Round 1 sets 1x1 Rib. Rep Round 1 a further 5 times. Change to longer length 5mm circular needle and work St st in the round (knit every round) until piece measures 11 (11.5, 12, 13, 14.5, 16, 16.5)cm / 4¼ (4½, 4¾, 5¼, 5¾, 6¼, 6½)in from cast-on edge. COMMENCE CHART Notes for reading the chart: Follow chart from bottom right hand corner, and work from right to left for each row, changing colours and working decreases as indicated. Reading from the Chart, working the 16-st repeat 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) times across the round, joining CC and changing to shorter length 5mm needle as necessary, work rows 1-46 (1-46, 1-46, 1-46, 1-51, 1-51, 1-51) of chart. 80 (88, 96, 104, 84, 90, 96) sts Break MC and continue in CC only. Next round: Knit and AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 (8, 14, 20, 0, 0, 0) sts evenly across the round. 76 (80, 82, 84, 84, 90, 96) sts NECKBAND Change to shorter length 4.5mm circular needle and work 1x1 Rib as set for 6cm (2½in). Cast off very loosely in rib using the 5mm needle (or use provisional cast off). Fold neckband in half and slip stitch in position on bottom inside of rib. FINISHING Weave in all ends and block lightly to shape.


knit with MC knit with CC Sizes 1-4 stop here k2tog

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Some of the publications that Loop has been featured in as well as our own knitting & crochet books 126


Loopka Recipe makes one Loopka 45ml Favourite Vodka 25ml American style/fresh Lemonade 10ml Chambord A short dash of Fee Brothers Orange Bitters Spring of mint and lemon twist to garnish Shake over ice and strain into a chilled glass Garnish with the spring of mint and twist of lemon Cocktail created by Adam Rompel for Loop

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neyblossom01_Layout 1 15/09/2014 11:07 Page 1

Sizes 3-6, 6-12, 12-18 & 18-24 only: Next row: [Cluster] to end. Next row: Purl.

All sizes again: Sizes 0-3, 3-6 & 6-12 only: Next row (WS): [K1, p1] to end. Next row (RS): [P1, k1] to end. Cast off in rib.

Sizes 6-12, 12-18 & 18-24 only: Next row: K1, [Cluster] to last st, k1. Next row: Purl.

Sizes 12-18 & 18-24 only: Next row (WS): [P1, k1] to last st, p1. Next row (RS): [K1, p1] to last st, k1. Cast off in rib.

Hygge

Honeyblossom All sizes again: Next row (RS): [K2 (3, 3, 3, 2), k2tog] to end. 48 (64, 64, 64, 66) sts Next row: Purl. Size 0-3 only: Next row: [K1, p1] to end.

Size 3-6 & 6-12 only: Next row: [K1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2tog] to end. 48 (48) sts Size 12-18 only: Next row: [(K1, p1) twice, k2tog, p1] to last st, k1. 55 sts

Size 18-24 only: Work 2 rows in St st. Next row: [K1, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p1] to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1. 57 sts

Copyright agreement This pattern is the property of the designer, herein known as Loop, London. 2013. Design by Yoko Hatta. Tech edit by Rachel Atkinson. Photography by Kristin Perers. Chart by Juju Vail. It is copyrighted and is for personal and non-profit use only. This means you can knit it for yourself, for a gift or charity. You may not sell a garment made from this pattern. You may not reproduce this in print or for a website. It may not be translated, reproduced or circulated in another language without prior agreement. Thank you and enjoy your knitting! Loop 15 Camden Passage, Islington, London N1 8EA, England www.loopknitting.com www.loopknitlounge.com

MAKING UP Weave in loose ends and gently block to measurements. Sew up the right underarm and side seam from wrist to lower edge of body. Sew up the left underarm from rib to armhole. FINISHING Using the crochet hook, work a row of double crochet (US: single crochet) along the open edge of Front keeping the stitches loose enough to be used as buttonholes. Work a row of double crochet along the opposite side. Position the top and bottom buttons followed by a central button and space the remaining buttons evenly stitching firmly in place down the right hand side of the opening.

Copyright agreement The pattern was designed by Vibe Ulrik Sonnegard for Loop, London. 2014 Tech edit by Rachel Atkinson. Photography by Kristen Perers. Thank you Bunty Chalmers. This pattern is the property of the designer, herein known as Loop, London. It is copyrighted and is for personal and non-profit use only. This means you can knit it for yourself, for a gift or charity. You may not sell a garment made from this pattern. You may not reproduce this in print or for a website. It may not be translated, reproduced or circulated in another language without prior agreement. Thank you and enjoy your knitting! Loop BEAUTIFUL HONEYCOMB YOKE CARDIGAN 15 Camden Passage, Islington, London N1 8EA, England www.loopknitting.com www.loopknitlounge.com DESIGNED BY YOKO HATTA FOR LOOP,LONDON

Double dutch

HYGGE; AN INDESCRIBABLE SENSE OF COSINESS. AN ADORABLE MULTI-TEXTURED UNISEX CARDIGAN THAT BUTTONS UP, TOP TO BOTTOM, ALONG THE SIDE SEAM. VIBE ULRIK SONNEGARD FOR LOOP,LONDON

KATHRYN MERRICK WITH LOOP, LONDON. ‘DUTCH’ AS THE DESIGN WAS INSPIRED BY DUTCH SAMPLERS FROM LONG AGO - ‘DOUBLE’ BECAUSE YOU CAN CROCHET A SPECIAL, ADORABLE BABY BLANKET OR A STUNNING SHAWL.

Soussous07_Layout 1 14/06/2015 19:06 Page 1

Wintermute

Josephine Key

Split for neck and shape neck Mark centre 3 sts. Next row (WS): Patt to first marker. Join new yarn (leaving original skein attached) and cast off 3 centre sts, patt to end of row. 162 (182, 206) sts remain - 81 (91, 103) sts each side of neck Continue as follows, working the two sides simultaneously but using separate ends of yarn to ensure the two sides match. On RS rows work in established pattern – as you decrease for the neck you don’t work any more cables, but the lace rib continues as set. Next row (RS): Patt to end. Next row (WS)(Dec): RH neck; Patt to 6 sts before split, k2tog, [p1, k1] twice. LH neck; [k1, p1] twice, ssk, patt to end. 1 st dec each side Next row: Patt to end. Next row: Rep dec row. 1 st dec each side Next 3 rows: Patt to end. Next row: Rep dec row. 1 st dec each side Rep last 6 rows a further 5 times. 68 (78, 90) sts each side of neck Next 3 rows: Patt to end. Next row: Rep dec row. 1 st dec each side Rep last 4 rows a further 7 times. 60 (70, 82) sts remain each side of neck Work 1 row straight. Next row (WS): RH side; Patt to last 4 sts and place the 56 (66, 78) sts just worked on a holder. LH side; Place all sts on holder. Continue on 4 sts for RH neck extension. Work remaining 4 sts as set until this extension measures 18cm / 7in when stretched. Place sts on holder.

BEAUTIFUL CABLE-EDGED SHAWL BY MELANIE BERG FOR LOOP LONDON. KNIT IN LUSCIOUS KISMET ‘REFUGE’ HAND-DYED FINGERING WRITTEN AND CHARTED INSTRUCTIONS

Sous Sous

Graft live sts of front shoulder to cast off sts on back shoulder, or alternatively, cast off the sts and sew shoulders together. Sew one side of the extension to the back neck edge and graft or sew the open end to the cast off rib sts remaining on the front. SLEEVES (both alike) Mark 16 (19.5, 21.5)cm / 6¼ (7¾, 8½)in down from each shoulder on both edges. Note: Count rows down from each shoulder to ensure the markers are set at the same place on each side. With RS facing, pick up and k75 (79, 87) sts between the markers. Set-up row (WS): P34 (36, 40), PM, p7, PM, p to end. Row 1 (RS): K2, [p1, k1] to 2 sts before marker, p2, SM, k2, yo, p3tog, yo, k2, SM, p2, [k1, p1] to last 2 sts, k2. Row 2: P2, [k1, p1] to 2 sts before marker, k2, SM, p7, SM, k2, [p1, k1] to last 2 sts, p2. Row 3: K2, [k1, p1] to 2 sts before marker, p2, SM, k2, yo, p3tog, yo, k2, SM, p2, [p1, k1] to last 2 sts, k2. Row 4 (Dec): P2, [p1, k1] to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, SM, p7, SM, k1, ssk, [k1, p1] to last 2 sts, p2. 2 sts dec Rows 1-4 set sleeve patt. Continue in patt as set, working dec row every fourth row a further 12 times. 49 (53, 61) sts Work straight in patt until sleeve measures 19cm / 7½in, ending with a WS row. Knit 2 rows. Purl one row. Cast off loosely knitwise on the WS. Rep for second sleeve. FINISHING Gently steam block to measurements before sewing the underarm and side seams and weaving in ends.

Copyright agreement This pattern is the property of the designer, herein known as Norah Gaughan for Loop, London. 2014. Design by Norah Gaughan. Photography by Kristin Perers. Tech edit by Rachel Atkinson. Modeled by Marine Duteil. Styling by DESIGNED PAULINA POPIOLEK LOOP, LONDON. Susan BY Cropper. It is copyrighted and is forFOR personal and non-profit use only. This means you can knit it for yourself, for a gift or charity. You may not sell a garment made from this pattern. You may not reproduce this in print or for a website. It may not be A CRESCENT SHAPED STOCKING STITCH SHAWL KNIT IN HEAVENLY SQUOOSH FIBERARTS translated, reproduced or circulated in another language without prior agreement. you and enjoyTHE your knitting! CASHMERE BLEND HEAVYThank LACE YARN. WIDE LACE AND CABLE BORDER IS WORKED IN

TEXTURED CROPPED SWEATER BY NORAH GAUGHAN FOR LOOP LONDON

SHORT ROWS FOR A FULLER FINISH AND OPTIONAL BEADS ADD WEIGHT AND SPARKLE. Loop 15 Camden Passage, Islington, London N1 8EA, England

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Pop Spots

Mignon BABY CARDIGAN

SHAWL

hippity-hop

AN ADORABLE UNISEX BABY CARDIGAN USING ENGINEERED CABLES TO GIVE IT A WONDERFUL SHAPE. KNIT FROM THE TOP DOWN WITH JUST ONE SKEIN OF YARN. Copyright agreement This pattern is the property of the designer, herein known as Juju Vail for Loop, London. 2013. Tech edit by Rachel Atkinson. This pattern is copyrighted and is for personal and non-profit use only. This means you can knit it for yourself, for a gift or charity. You may not sell a garment made from this pattern. You may not reproduce this in print or for a website. It may not be translated, reproduced or circulated in another language without prior agreement. Thank you and enjoy your knitting! Loop 15 Camden Passage, Islington, London N1 8EA, England www.loopknitting.com www.loopknitlounge.com

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STUNNING AND SUPER EASY POLKA DOT SHAWL BY JUJU VAIL FOR LOOP, LONDON, USING CLEVER DROP-STITCH PATTERNS WORKED IN STRIPES,ONE COLOUR AT A TIME.

MATERIALS: ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS: Yarn: One skein of The Uncommon Thread DK Back: 30cm wide, centre back from neck to bottom. Copyright agreement (100% superwash Blue Faced Leicester, 225m/100g). Edge: 20cm, sleeve length from neck to edge: 15cm. Shown here in the shade ‘Into Dust’.This pattern is the property of the designer, herein known as Rachel Coopey for Loop, London. 2014. Tech edit by Rachel Atkinson. Modelled by Marine Duteil. Styling by Susan Cropper. Photographs by Kristin Perers. Needles: 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) ABBREVIATIONS: The pattern images are copyrighted. Notions: Cable needle, 2 pieces of waste yarnand and k: Knit This pattern is for personal and non-profit use only. This means you can knit it for yourself, for a gift or charity. You may not sell ap: garment one button. Purl made from this pattern. You may not reproduce this in print or for a website. It may not be translated, reproduced or circulated in another RS: Right side language without prior agreement with Loop. Thank you and enjoy your knitting! TENSION: WS: Wrong side 22 stitches and 32 rows to 10cm over stocking stitch and rep: Repeat Loop 28 stitches and 32 rows to 10cm over rib and cable st/s: Stitch/es N1 8EA, England pattern both on 3.75mm needles. 15 Camden Passage, Islington, London m1 (increase): With left-hand needle, lift the bar www.loopknitting.com www.loopknitlounge.com between the stitch just worked and the next stitch from TO FIT: 3-6 months. front to back and knit through the back loop.

FABULOUS TEXTURED KNEE AND ANKLE SOCKS WITH MIRRORED STITCHES BY RACHEL COOPEY FOR LOOP, LONDON


Above, some of the free patterns that can be found on our blog include Spring Bloom Mitts and the Hawick Cowl by Rachel Atkinson. Opposite are some of the wonderful patterns we have published with teriffic designers including Norah Gaughan, Yoko Hatta, Kathryn Merrick, Paulina Popiolek, Juju Vail, Vibe Sondergaard, Melanie Berg and Rachel Coopey. 129


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Haberdashery crazy Melissa Wastney of Tiny Happy sometimes hand embroiders beautiful project bags for us on Swedish linen and vintage fabrics. Shown with braids of BlueSky Alpaca Metalico, Eden Cottage yarn and wonderful handmade wooden beehive needle gauges Above, twists of Madelinetosh Merino Light.

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the Yarn dyers Our 10 incredibly talented yarn dyers and companies who have contibuted to our anniversary year and this book. Each draws on their own unique inspiration, all have a passion for colour.

Ce Persiano started The Uncommon Thread in 2010 from her tiny kitchen in Hove, England. We dye our yarns with the knitter in mind, aiming to achieve enjoyment in every stitch. Loop was one of the first shops to get in touch about retailing the yarn - it was an honour to be stocked there as it has long been one of Ce’s favourite yarn shops. We continue to be honoured and humbled to be part of this amazing crafting community.

Madelinetosh was created by Amy Hendrix: Dyer, mama, and passionate colour theory and crafting educator. Madelinetosh represents curated colours dyed with care on wholesome, ethically sourced and dyed wools. We celebrate rich, abundant colour and natural fibres. The first Madelinetosh shop opened online on Etsy in 2006. Out of this tiny start-up grew a hand dye operation which now supplies yarn to stockists around the globe.

Shilasdair began in 1996 and is based in the wild, scenic croftlands on the Isle of Skye, Scotland. Eva and Tony Lambert have specialised in naturally dyed yarns using locally collected or imported natural dyes, devising their own recipes to reflect the ever-changing light in which we see colours. Their yarns are dyed from Lichens, Madder, Indigo, Tansy, Thistle and Sea Ivory, amongst others - and Logwood, which Highland Twylight is made from.

Based in Germany, DyeForYarn is the creation of Nicole Eitzinger and Cordula Surmann-Schmitt Starting out as scientists we began knitting lace in our leisure time a few years ago. We couldn’t find the right yarns in Germany back then, so we decided to dye them ourselves. We opened our first Etsy shop in 2010 and - after quitting our day jobs our brick and mortar store in 2011. Susan at Loop, London was our first, and still is our largest retailer, so she holds a very special place in our history.

Emily Foden of Viola was born into a family in which both of her grandmothers were avid knitters and both named Viola. Viola was founded in 2010, and ticked along merrily for a couple of years, until I moved to England, to work in an antique worsted spinning mill. There I learned exactly what makes good yarn. Since returning to Canada in November, 2015, I have picked up Viola in a new place. Being involved in this project with Loop has been such a treat. It allowed me to really experiment and create a colour that evoked Loop’s whimsical, understated and downright lovely aesthetic.

Lilith Green of Old Maiden Aunt moved to Scotland from Canada in 1999. Here I found my niche/obsession in the world of knitting, spinning, & dyeing, which I developed into Old Maiden Aunt Yarns in 2007. My colourways take inspiration from many areas of my life, including my favourite books & films, music, and especially the Scottish landscape. I work from my small studio on the west coast of Scotland to develop layered, rich colourways with hidden depths that I hope reflect the influence that the Scottish landscape has had on the way I see the world.

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Jane Saffir - Jade Sapphire was born out of my passion for yarn. Just as Jade Sapphire is a second career, so is Ken a second-time-around partner, and Jade Sapphire is the “child” we had together. We are so proud to be one of Susan’s original suppliers and cherish our tradition of fabulous steak dinners around the world. We love visiting Loop, and are always charmed by the unique combination of beautiful yarns and interesting bits of whimsy.

Quince & Co. was launched in 2010 by Pam Allen in partnership with a historic mill in Maine. Quince focuses on natural fibres and pretty patterns for the modern knitter. We design each of our yarns from the ground up to get the most of the fibres and spinning techniques, and we work with top designers from around the world to create a range of patterns with a less-is-more aesthetic.

Kristi Johnson - The Shalimar journey in hand dyeing began in 2007. From the time we opened our doors, Shalimar has always worked with custom milled yarns designed to our exacting specifications of beauty, versatility and outstanding hand. These luxury bases are then hand dyed in our unique and identifiable colour palette. My passions include long distance horse riding, hiking, reading and knitting. My partner Paul and I share our small farm with 2 horses and many other animals. Our bright and airy studio is on our property and every day I count my blessings for the life I have.

Taiu Landra - Koigu, based in Chatsworth, Canada was started by Maie and Harry Landra in the 1970’s. Koigu started out with Maie hand spinning and dyeing the fleece from their own Landra flock. The name Koigu was chosen to honor Harry’s ancestral home in Estonia. For the first 5 years, KPPPM was produced in the farmhouse kitchen. They now work closely with yarn mills but every skein is still lovingly handpainted and each dyelot a unique original.

Julie Arkell is one of England’s best recognised contemporary folk artists working in papier-mâché and mixed media. Having gained her degree from West Surrey College of Art & Design, she has been exhibiting her work and teaching around the world since 1985. As whimsical and charming as her objects are, on closer observation they sometimes have a bit of the Edward Gorey or Joseph Cornell about them, a darker, more wistful edge.  Her poetic fragments of words, either embroidered on snippets of fabric or printed on the paper used in the papier-mache, often add to a feeling of vulnerability. ‘Working with scraps; bits of fabric, wool and paper that have been worn, torn, used and read. Lists found between the pages of old books, hidden words, stories, old buttons, lost feelings: put together again like secrets found on maps. I respond to the imperfection of things.’ Loop feels blessed to house some of Julie’s work as well as host workshops with her at the shop through the year.

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the Designers A little bit about our 11 wonderful designers from around the world. Each has their own aesthetic, and continue to offer us beautiful patterns and inspiration.

Meghan Fernandes is an erstwhile American transplant to London, where she worked at Loop for several years. She now runs the knitting magazine Pom Pom Quarterly with Lydia Gluck, another former Loopette! In addition to running Pom Pom, she writes, designs, teaches, and is currently enjoying a very sunshine-filled existence in Austin, Texas. pompommag.com

Between owning a local yarn shop, operating partner of Deep South Fibers and founder of Big Bad Wool, Donna Higgins continues to create and collaborate with the industries best. Born and raised in Wisconsin, she now resides in Birmingham, Alabama with her husband, 2 children and 3 pets. When she isn’t busy balancing work and family life, you will find her knitting or quilting.

Claire Montgomerie is a textile designer, writer, teacher, editor and stylist, specialising in knitting and crochet. A graduate of the Royal College of Art, she is commissioning editor of Inside Crochet magazine and teaches textile workshops around England. She has also authored eight knitting and crochet books, including the bestselling ‘Easy Baby Knits’. She was Loop’s very first employee. montyknits.blogspot.co.uk

Stephen West learned to knit while dancing in high school and hasn’t stopped since. He now has over 150 published designs and continues to work and travel from his adopted home, Amsterdam, where he co-owns Stephen + Penelope yarn shop. Stephen visits Loop every year to teach and enhance his stash. Loop was one of the first shops to stock Westknits patterns in 2010. You can follow Westknits’s antics on Westknits.com and ravelry.com/designers/stephen-west

Kirsten Kapur is a New York City based designer who grew up in a family of knitters, sewers, and crafters. It was only natural that she pursue a career as an apparel and textile designer, where she learned the basics of garment construction and surface design. This knowledge proved invaluable when she began to experiment with the interplay between fibre colours and textures in her original patterns. Kirsten’s designs can be found on Ravelry. kirstenkapurdesigns.com

Tif Fussell is a Brit, who has been living at Mossy Shed outside Seattle for the past fifteen years. She finds her happy in the moment by spending her time wisely crafting with secondhand fabric, ethical yarns, making food from scratch and dabbling with her imagination. Tif finds homemade and homegrown, even on the road brings a little happy to each and every day. She is also the co-author of Granny Chic. dottieangel.com

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Pam Allen is a long-time hand-knitwear designer. She was editor of Interweave Knits and creative director at Classic Elite Yarns. In 2010, she launched Quince & Co, a yarn company dedicated primarily to working with US spinning mills to make yarns from American mills. Loop was Quince’s first stockist in the world. We were honoured to be asked to be part of Susan’s lovely shop. And we still are. I feel like Susan and Loop are family. Quinceandco.com

Ysolda Teague is an independent knitting pattern designer based in Edinburgh, Scotland. She believes the process is as important as the final outcome. Loop and her design career are almost exactly the same age, publishing her first pattern in 2005 on Knitty.com. Susan was one of my first and most active supporters featuring my wee book Whimsical Little Knits - I think in the first year Loop sold more copies than every other shop put together. Ysolda.com

Paulina’s Popiolek’s passion for knitting stems from a very young age. Since her very first attempts she would experiment with different stitches and shapes. Her patterns are now published on Ravelry and can be found in selected yarn shops. Loop has been her favourite shop for almost a decade and her ‘Cameo’ and ‘Josephine’ shawls have been some of their bestselling patterns ever. She lives in Surrey with her very patient husband and two cats. ravelry.com/designers/paulina-popiolek

Juju Vail is a busy knitter, designer, photographer, painter, sewer and pie eater. You may know Juju from her collaborative book with Susan, ‘Juju’s Loops’, her popular shawl pattern, ‘Pop Spots’ or you may have overheard her loud laugh at Loop’s weekly knit nights. Juju has freelanced at Loop since 2009 and is currently working on her next book of colourful mittens. Juju was raised in Canada and lives with her family in East London. jujuvail.com

Rachel Atkinson is a Knit and Crochet Technical editor, Designer and daughter of a shepherd. A former Loopette who ensures she doesn’t miss out on any of the exciting things that are going on at the shop by editing patterns for Loop, and taking owner Susan to the ballet as often as possible. Find Rachel blogging at mylifeinknitwear.com and on Twitter and Instagram as knittingtastic.

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Cover: Valarie Casado handmade Lace Motif Porcelain cup from a selection at Swoon Lounge (swoon-lounge.com) Page 6: Brass scissors and shawl pins from a selection at Loop. Page 13: Pigeonroof Mini Gradient set shown in ‘Pistachio’ at Loop. Page 15: Manuelle Guibal ‘Gigi’ Tunique from a selection at Swoon Lounge (as above). Flower Cluster shawl pin from a selection at Loop. Page 21: Bunty is wearing ‘Hygge’ knit in Jade Sapphire hand-dyed Cashmere in ‘oh sweetie pie’. Page 23: Flower Shawl pin from a selection at Loop. Page 27: Golden Crown from Swoon Lounge (as above). Page 28/29: Brass scissors from Loop. Manuelle Guibal Deb Nejy dress from Swoon Lounge (as above). Page 32: dear swallow ‘Jasmine’ ring from a selection at Swoon Lounge (as above). Page 39: Knit Rabbit is ‘Sophie’ pattern by Ysolda Teague knit in Quince & Co. Chickadee in colour Rosa Rugosa. Pattern and yarn available at Loop. Page 40/41: Crochet Lion on Wicker Rocker: Miga de Pan from a selection at Loop, Vintage wicker rocking chair and Dutch Coffee Pot from Swoon Lounge (as above). Page 46: Sajou handmade ‘Horse and Cart’ scissors and Laine Saint-Pierre embroidery & darning threads from a selection at Loop. Page 47: ‘2 pocket’ hand-dyed leather bag from a selection at Swoon Lounge (as above). Metal Thistle Cut-out buttons from a selection at Loop. Page 56: Rosewood needles from a selection at Loop. Page 74/75: Monahan hand-dyed silk ribbon at Loop, Golden Crown at Swoon Lounge (as above), handmade toffees kindly made by Rachel Atkinson. Page 98/99: Valerie Casado handmade Lace Motif Porcelain Tray and cups from a selection at Swoon Lounge (as above). Sajou handmade ‘Horse and Cart’ scissors and vintage thread from Loop. Small balls of yarn are Pigeonroof Mini Gradient set shown in ‘Pistachio’ at Loop. Page 114: Vintage metal Sheep and Lantern Moon Rosewood needles from a selection at Loop. Page 124: Chan Luu silver & leather bracelet from Swoon Lounge (as above) This page: Selection of vintage wooden knitting needles and brooch from Loop. Shown with Koigu KPPPM ‘Vintage Angel’ (P749) bespoke for Loop. Page 142/143: Rosewood short knitting needles from Loop, Cast Iron Picture Holder from Swoon Lounge (as above). Orkney Angora St Magnus in ‘Plum Stain’ bespoke for Loop. Painting by Kristin Perers. All items and clothes, if not credited, belong to stylist. 137


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Credits & Thanks This anniversary book started as an idea on a plane a year and a half ago, on my way back from a trade fair, where I was reminded of just how many incredible people Loop has been involved with over the years. From my initial excited scribbled notes to it going to our printer, this book had so many talented and lovely people involved to make it come to life. From yarn dyers and designers saying an enthusiastic ‘Yes!’ to the book designer, technical editor, photographer and sample knitters and lots of others in-between, I offer a huge heartfelt thank you. Editor and Stylist: Susan Cropper Photography: Kristin Perers www.kristinperers.com Technical Editor: Rachel Atkinson www.mylifeinknitwear.com Book Designer: Anthony Duncan Smith Anthony also designs all of Loop’s single patterns. ww.tdsd.co.uk Pattern Checker: Jemima Bicknell Jemima is also Loop’s manager extraordinaire. Copy Contributor: Sophie Scott Sophie is also Loop’s window dresser, sales girl and wonderfully talented blogger on LoopKnitLounge.com.

Models: Many thanks to Anneka Williams, owner of Appestat, Café and Tea Room. 102 Islington High Street, N1 (Just down the passage from Loop and the best coffee in the area!) www.appestat.co.uk Emily Chalmers and her daughter Bunty. Emily is a stylist and the owner of Caravan Style – A whimsical collection of home accessories and gifts. Emily is the author of many beautiful books including ‘Flea Market Style’, ‘Modern Vintage Style’ and ‘Cheap Chic’ as well as being the stylist of our own book ‘Vintage Crochet’. www.caravanstyle.com Sample and Test Knitters: Fiona Blanchard, Liz Baltesz, Fiona Hobson, Jemima Bicknell, Emma Brace, Sophie Scott, Juju Vail, Colin Moore, Kate Mansfield Printed in the UK by: Bill Munt and Phil Heron of Heron Dawson & Sawyer www.hdsuk.com Many thanks to the following for use of their photos: Page 10: Simon Brown for image of Susan at Loop Page 72/73: Temaricious images by Temaricious Page 130: Alun Callender for image of Ce Persiano My parents; Jack Silverberg, Joan Podel and Joy Hockman for their unending enthusiam and my children; Jonah, Niall and Sonia Cropper. And all my wonderful staff and customers.

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ABBREVIATIONS & TECHNIQUES cast off Bind off cm Centimetre(s) CDD Slip 2 stitches together knitwise, knit the next stitch, pass 2 slipped stitches over ch Chain CC Contrast Colour dec Decrease dc Double crochet UK / Single crochet US DPN(s) Double-pointed needle(s) dtr Double treble crochet UK / Treble crochet US G-st Garter stitch: Knit every row g Gram(mes) htr Half treble crochet UK / Half double crochet US in Inch(es) inc Increase k Knit k2tog Knit 2 stitches together k3tog Knit 3 stitches together kfb Knit into the front then back of the same stitch kfbf Knit into the front then back then front again of the same stitch kwise Knitwise LH Left hand MC Main Colour M1 Make 1; Work as for M1L M1L Make 1 Left; pick up strand between the two needles from the front to back with the tip of left needle, knit into the back of this st M1R Make 1 Right; pick up strand between the two needles from back to front with the tip of left needle, knit into the front of this st M1P Make 1 Purlwise; pick up the strand between the needles with left hand needle tip from front, and purl into back of loop m Metre(s) mm Millimetre(s) patt Pattern PLM Place locking stitch marker PM Place marker p Purl p2tog Purl 2 stitches together p3tog Purl 3 stitches together 140


pfb Purl into the front then back of the same stitch pwise Purlwise RLM Remove locking stitch marker rep Repeat RH Right hand RS Right Side sl Slip SM Slip marker sk2po Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit the next 2 stitches together, pass the slipped st over ssk Slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, place back on right-hand needle in new position, knit together through the back loops ssp Slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, place back on right-hand needle in new position, purl together through the back loops sl st Slip stitch sp Space st(s) Stitch(es) St-st Stocking stitch / Stockinette: Knit on RS rows, purl on WS rows Tension Gauge tbl Through the back loop tr Treble crochet UK / Double crochet US trtr Triple treble UK / Double treble US w&t Wrap & turn wyib With yarn held at back wyif With yarn held at front WS Wrong Side yds Yards yo Yarn over yoh Yarn over hook

TECHNIQUES Provisional crochet cast-on: Using waste yarn and a crochet hook, make a loose crochet chain a few more stitches longer that the number you are required to cast on. With main knitting needle and working yarn, pick up and knit 1 stitch through the back loop of each crochet chain for the required number of stitches. To expose live stitches simply pull out the crochet chain placing live stitches onto the working needle. Any alternative provisional method will work but you may find you have to knit a row in the working yarn before commencing the pattern. Wrap & Turn: Knitwise; slip next stitch purlwise, bring yarn between needles to front of work, slip same stitch back to the left hand needle, turn work and bring yarn into working position for next stitch.Purlwise; slip next stitch purlwise, take yarn between needles to back of work, slip same stitch back to the left hand needle, turn work and bring yarn into working position for next stitch. Embroidery tip for Rosemaling Mitts: If you are unsure about embroidering your woolly tattoo freestyle, we recommend using a lightweight, water-soluble embroidery film, readily available from craft stores or online. Simply trace the drawing onto the film, place as desired on the mitt and embroider over the lines – the film will then dissolve away when soaked in lukewarm water. Use a pointed embroidery needle with a sharp tip when stitching water soluble film. PATTERN NOTES Stitch counts are given in italics at the end of a row or round when the stitch count has increased or decreased. If no stitch count is given then the count remains the same. Repeats are shown in two different ways: [Square brackets] indicate the stitches in the repeat and the following instruction will tell you how many times, or where to repeat it to, e.g: [yo, k1] to last 2 sts Asterisks (*) indicate where to repeat from.

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Copyright Agreement: All patterns and images are the property of Loop Knitting Ltd. Individual copyright also applies. They are copyrighted and are for personal and non-profit use only. This means that you may knit it for yourself, for a gift or for charity. You may not sell a garment made from these patterns. You may not reproduce any pattern in this book in print or on any website without prior permission. Merchants may not print out any patterns for sale, distribution, or class use without prior permission. These patterns may not be translated, reproduced or circulated in any language without prior agreement. Thank you and enjoy your knitting! Errata: We have done our very best to try and ensure all patterns are correct. For corrections that have come to light since we went to print, we offer sincere apologies. Please see our blog, loopknitlounge.com, where corrections will be posted. Loop is on the wonderfully charming Camden Passage in Islington, near Angel tube station. Loop, 15 Camden Passage, Islington, London N1 8EA 00 44 (0) 207 288 1160 We also have a beautiful online shop at www.loopknitting.com and ship all over the world. You can find us on: Ravelry (ravelry.com/groups/loop-london) Facebook (facebook.com/loopknitting) Twitter (@loopknitting) Pinterest (Loop, London) Instagram (LoopLondonLoves) 142


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Thank you and enjoy your knitting!

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A wonderful treasure of a book celebrating ten years of Loop, London. In collaboration with independent designers and yarn dyers who have been involved with Loop for over a decade, we bring you twelve patterns knit in ten bespoke colours for Loop from: Madelinetosh, Quince & Co., Koigu, DyeForYarn, Shilasdair, Viola, The Uncommon Thread, Old Maiden Aunt, Jade Sapphire and Shalimar. With gorgeous photography by Kristin Perers, there are three garments, as well as four shawls, scarves, mitts, a baby sweater, skating capelet and more from the following brilliant designers. It’s a roll call we are honoured to have worked with over the years: Kirsten Kapur Stephen West Pam Allen Claire Montgomerie Paulina Popiolek Juju Vail Meghan Fernandes Donna Higgins Rachel Atkinson Ysolda Teague Tif Fussell (Dottie Angel)

Loop s 10 e book  
Loop s 10 e book  
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