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flower chain Ellen MacGregor stitched this quilt in a 1930s style.

Measurements Finished size: 90cm (35 1/2in) square Materials • 1.5m (12/3yd) in total of a variety of small scale floral prints • 60cm (2/3yd) cream tone-on-tone print • No 9 crewel needle • 30cm (1/3yd) blue homespun for the binding • 20cm (1/4yd) green homespun for the first border • 1.1m (11/5yd) backing fabric • 1.1m (11/5yd) batting • Stranded embroidery cottons to match the floral prints • Neutral-coloured cotton for piecing • Water-soluble marking pen • Rotary cutter, mat and ruler • L ightbox (optional) • General sewing supplies Stitches Used

C

A

B

Stem stitch For buttonhole stitch diagram, please refer to page 12.

Preparation Read all the instructions before beginning this project. It is recommended that fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and well ironed. Requirements are based on fabric 112cm (44in) wide. Seam allowances of 5mm (1/4in) are used throughout and are included in the cutting instructions. Cutting From the small scale floral prints, cut: – 321, 11/2in squares – 21 for each chain block and four for each embroidery block – 32, 31/4in x 41/4in rectangles for the third border – four 31/4in squares for the third border. From the cream tone-on-tone print, cut: – one 51/2in strip and crosscut 12, 31/2in x 51/2in rectangles for the embroidery blocks – four 2in strips and crosscut two 2in x 271/2in strips and two 2in x 301/2in strips for the second border – four 11/2in strips and crosscut 52, 11/2in squares and 24, 11/2in x 31/2in rectangles for the blocks From the blue homespun, cut: – four 21/2in strips for the binding. From the green homespun, cut: – four 11/2in strips and crosscut two 11/2in x 251/2in strips and two 11/2in x 271/2in strips for the first border. CONSTRUCTION Chain blocks Following diagram 1, lay out 21, 1 1/2in floral print and four 11/2in cream tone-

Diagram 1. Joining the 11/2in squares into rows

Diagram 2. Stitch the rows together

on-tone print squares into five rows of five, balancing the colours and textures. Join the squares into rows pressing the seams of each alternate row in the opposite direction. Referring to diagram 2, stitch the rows together pressing the seams in one direction.Repeat to make a total of 13 blocks. Embroidery Blocks Stitch a 11/2in floral print square to each end of two 11/2in x 31/2in cream tone-on-tone print rectangles and press the seams towards the floral print squares as shown in diagram 3. Join these two rows to each side of a 31/2in x 51/2n cream tone-on-tone print rectangle then press the seams towards the cream rectangle. Repeat this step to make a total of 12 blocks. Embroidery Using a lightbox or a well-lit window, trace the flowers from the pattern sheet onto the 12 embroidery blocks with the water-soluble marking pen. Thread the crewel needle with two strands of embroidery cotton in the colour of your choice and then stem-stitch the main design lines and buttonhole-stitch the centre of some flowers as shown on the pattern sheet. When the embroideries are complete, remove the pen lines with water and when they’re dry, press them lightly.

Diagram 3. Making the Embroidery blocks

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Assembly Referring to the photograph of the quilt, lay out the blocks in five rows of five alternating the chain and embroidered blocks placing a chain block in each corner. Join the blocks into rows pressing the seams towards the embroidered ones. Stitch the rows together and press the seams in one direction. First Border Attach a 11/2in x 251/2in green homespun strip to each side of the quilt top and press the seams outwards, then stitch the longer ones to the top and bottom in the same manner. Second Border Sew a 2in x 271/2in cream tone-on-tone print strip to each side of the quilt top and the longer ones to the top and bottom the same way as the first border. Third Border Arrange the 31/4in x 41/4in floral print rectangles into four rows of eight then join them into rows pressing the seams in one direction. Stitch a row to each side of the quilt top and press the seams outwards.

Sew a 31/4in floral print square to each end of the remaining two rows then attach them to the top and bottom of the quilt top, pressing the seams outwards. Backing Lay the backing fabric right side down on a hard surface, the batting and the quilt top right side up. Baste the layers together with safety pins for machine-quilting or threadbaste them for hand-quilting. Quilting Machine-quilt in the ditch along the borders and on the diagonal in the chain blocks. Binding Join the four 21/2in blue homespun strips end to end with 45-degree seams and press the seams open. With wrong sides facing, fold the strip in half lengthwise and press it. Stitch the binding to the quilt aligning the raw edges and mitring the corners as you go. Fold the binding to the back and slip-stitch it in place. â—?

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Enlarge by 200%

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flower delight Louise Audet created a garden complete with butterflies and a cat in the centre of this charming cushion. The mixture of pretty fabrics and stitchery would brighten any room. Measurements Finished cushion: 46cm x 48.5cm (181/4in x 191/4in) Materials • 20cm (1/4yd) seeded homespun • 60cm (2/3yd) calico • 15cm (1/6yd) blue floral print • 20cm (1/4yd) green floral print • 15cm (1/6yd) pink check print • 40cm (1/2yd) backing fabric • DMC Stranded Embroidery Cottons: 1 skein each of very light shell pink (224), light old gold (676), light pale yellow (745), medium delft blue (799), pale delft blue (800), light yellow green (3348), light dusty rose (3354), pine green (3364) • 20cm (1/4yd) gold stripe print • 10cm (1/8yd) each of green/pink floral and blue/yellow floral prints • Quilting threads: ecru, pink, green, blue, gold • 10cm (1/8yd) Vilene • 51cm (20in) square of Pellon • 48cm (19in) square cushion insert • Water-erasable pen • HB pencil • Crewel embroidery needle • Quilting needle • Embroidery hoop (optional) • Lightbox (optional) • Rotary cutter, ruler and mat

Preparation It is recommended fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and ironed. Requirements are based on fabrics 112cm (44in) wide. All strips are cut across the width of the fabric unless stated otherwise. The 6mm (1/4in) seam allowance used throughout is included in the cutting measurements. Read through the instructions before you begin. Cutting From the seeded homespun, cut: – one 7in x 13in rectangle. From the calico, cut: – one 20in square. From the blue floral print, cut: – two 11/2in strips – one 2in strip. From the green floral print, cut: – one 11/2in strip – one 2in strip – two 21/4in x 3in rectangles. From the pink check print, cut: – one 3/4in strip – one 21/4in strip and crosscut two 21/4in x 18in strips. From the gold stripe print, cut: – one 31/2in strip and crosscut two 31/2in x 20in strips From the backing fabric, cut: – two 13in x 183/4in rectangles. – one 21/2in x 8in strip for the appliqué. From each of the green/pink floral and the blue/yellow floral prints, cut: – two 21/4in x 3in rectangles. From the Vilene, cut: – one 21/2in x 8in rectangle – two 31/2in x 20in rectangles. Transferring the design Fold the 7in x 13in rectangle of seeded homespun in quarters and finger-press the fold lines. Centre it over the design on the pattern sheet on a lightbox or well-lit window and trace it with the water-erasable pen. Appliqué Put the 21/2in x 8in Vilene rectangle on the pattern over the lightbox and trace the fence posts with a sharp pencil leaving a 1/2in gap

between them. Pin the Vilene on the right side of the 21/2in x 8in gold stripe print rectangle and backstitch on the curved lines leaving the bottom of the posts open. Cut around each shape 1/4in from the stitching, clip the curves without cutting the stitching, turn them right side out and press them lightly. Tack them in position on the stitchery then slip-stitch them in place, turning under the raw edges at the base as you go. When the stitchery is complete, spray any visible tracing lines with a little water then lay it right side down and press it gently. Assembly Stitch the 3/4in pink check print strip to the top of the embroidered panel with right sides facing and trim it. Repeat for the bottom edge and press the seams outwards. Do the same on the sides and press the seams as before. Arrange the two 21/4in x 4in green floral, green/pink floral and blue/yellow floral print rectangles in two rows of three. Sew them together with right sides facing then press the seams in one direction. Sew them to the sides of the panel and press the seams outwards. Stitch the 11/2in blue floral strips to the top and bottom of the panel, trim them then press the seams outwards. Trace the scalloped edge from the pattern sheet on the 31/2in x 20in Vilene rectangles. Put the Vilene on the right side of the samesize gold stripe print rectangles with the straight edge of the scallop level with the top of the fabric, then stitch on the line. Trim the scalloped edge 1/4in from the stitching, clip the curves without cutting the stitching and turn it right side out. Make sure there are no lumps or bumps then press it lightly. Pin the scallop edges to the right side of the 21/4in x 18in pink check rectangles so that the high point of the scallops is 1/4in from the top of the rectangles. Slip-stitch along the scalloped edge then press them lightly. With right sides facing, stitch the scalloped border to the top and bottom of the panel, trim them and press the seams away from the centre. Transfer the position of the daisies from the pattern onto the scallops then work them with lazy daisy stitches and medium delft blue (799). Stitch a light pale yellow (745) colonial knot in the centres.

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Stitches Used

Running stitch

colonial knots A

B

A B

granitos For fly stitch diagram, please refer to page 70. For lazy daisy stitch stitch diagram, please refer to page 74. For running stitch diagram, please refer to page 8. For stem stitch diagram, please refer to page 50. For straight stitch diagram, please refer to page 108.

Design element

No of Thread strands

Stitch

Fence rails

2

light old gold (676)

stem stitch

Cat: Outline

1

Nose Eyes Whiskers

1 1 1

very light shell pink (224) same same same

stem stitch fly stitch colonial knots straight stitch

Left and right butterflies: Bodies

2

light pale yellow (745)

Wings

2

Antennae

2

Trail

3

light dusty rose (3354) pale delft blue (800) same

4 straight stitches – granitos lazy daisy stitch backstitch

Middle butterfly: Body

2

light pale yellow (745)

Wings

2

Antennae

2

Trail

3

pale delft blue (800) light dusty rose (3354) same

Tall flowers: Stems

2

Leaves

2

Flowers

2

Centres

2

Medium flowers – Stems Flowers Centres

2 2 2

Small flowers: Stems 2

Flowers

3

pine green (3364) same medium delft blue (799) light pale yellow (745)

running stitch

4 straight stitches – granitos lazy daisy stitch backstitch running stitch

backstitch lazy daisy stitch same colonial knots

light yellow green (3348) light dusty rose (3354) light pale yellow (745)

backstitch lazy daisy stitch colonial knots

pine green (3364) light dusty rose (3354), light pale yellow (745) or pale delft blue (800)

straight stitch

colonial knots

Sew a 11/2in blue floral strip to the sides of the pieced centre, trim them and press the seams outwards. Attach the 11/2in green floral strip to the top, trim it and press the seams as before, then repeat this on the bottom. Quilting Put the 20in calico square right side down on a firm surface, then the Pellon and the embroidered panel right side up, smoothing out any wrinkles as you go. Thread-baste them together ready for quilting. Use ecru quilting thread to quilt along the top of the fence rails, the butterfly trails and around the edge of the embroidered panel. Quilt across both diagonals on the patches at the side of the panel with green quilting thread then stitch through the centre of the blue floral and green floral strips with matching thread. Quilt 1/4in from the top of the gold stripe strip and the same distance below the scallops with matching threads. Backing Overlock one long edge of the backing rectangles, turn under 1/2in hems and stitch them. Press them lightly then lay the cushion front right side down and put the packing pieces on it right side up so that the hemmed edges of the backing face towards the centre of the cushion. Pin them and tack around the outside edge through all layers then trim the surplus fabric and Pellon so that it is 1/2in bigger than the cushion front – this is included in the binding. Binding Fold the 2in blue floral and green floral strips in half lengthwise and press them. Stitch the blue floral print strip to one side of the cushion, trim it then repeat for the other side. Press on the front lightly so the seam sits flat then fold the binding to the back and slip-stitch it in place. Leaving 1in overhanging at each end, sew a green floral strip to the top and bottom and press the seam lightly on the front. Fold the ends in, turn the binding to the back and slip-stitch it in place. Put the insert in the cushion. ●

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B

U

S

I

N

E

S

S

P

R

O

F

I

L

E

J O J O Z A RT S T U D I O After becoming frustrated with the markups her stockists were putting on her items, polymer clay artist Joanne Cramatte decided to take a step forward from being a wholesaler, by selling her gorgeous designs directly to the public. With much success as a regular stallholder at the Tanks Art Centre Markets in Cairns, Joanne felt it was time to expand her business to reach a wider audience. In early 2013 she set about designing her bright and welcoming website, registering her business and moving her workshop out of her home and into her very own studio and by May Jo Joz Art Studio was born. Joanne developed her passion for polymer clay when she finished high school. Having always loved creating with plasticine, felt, Lego and paper and pencil, and with two artistic parents, Joanne knew her future would revolve around art. So, after finishing high school she worked with renowned polymer clay jewellery designer Belinda Jackson of Out of the Ordinary. She then moved to the Sunshine Coast in Queensland and began to frequent local markets, where her whimsical and quirky designs became favourites among the regular market-goers.

detailed buttons, are all evident on the front page, making it easy for customers to see exactly what they’re looking for straightaway. Preferring to spend her time creating her wares than designing websites, Joanne’s main aim with her online store was to keep it as simple as possible; everything is clearly laid out and the payment and postage options are hassle-free. Joanne is always adding new products, especially to her ever-growing range of exclusive buttons.

Cairns, Queensland, Australia Phone: 0419 732 425 Email: cramatte@bigpond.com

Her pride and joy, the large range of polymer clay buttons includes a variety of designs suitable for just about every taste and would make wonderful embellishments on any project, be it a knitted cardigan or a Christmas decoration. Moreover, as everything goes direct from the hand of the maker to the customer not only is every item unique, it also comes at the best possible price.

The website reflects the tone of Joanne’s designs; colourful mermaids greet visitors on the homepage, along with examples of Joanne’s unique work. Personalised brooches, festive ornaments, T-shirts, art prints, key rings, project kits and, of course, gorgeously

PS14-11_14

OWNER: Joanne Cramatte

www.jojozartstudio.com.au

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wuthering heights Leeanne Pitman designed this stylish bag and sewing folder in coordinating fabrics.

– one bag flap. From the red fabric, cut: – one bag flap for the lining. From the blue print, cut: – one 41/2in x 391/2in strip for the handle. From the Pellon, cut: – one 21/2in x 351/2in strip for the gusset – one 13/4in x 381/2in strip for the handle – two bag shapes – one bag flap. From each of the dusty pink, blue and red prints, cut: – five 21/2in x 20in strips and crosscut a 21/2in x 12in strip from each one, setting the remaining 8in strips to one side.

Measurements

Finished sizes: Shoulder bag – 28cm x 33cm (11in x 13in) Sewing folder – 21.5cm x 30cm (81/2in x 12in) Materials

Shoulder bag • Fat quarter each of dusty pink, blue and red prints for the bag • 40cm (1/2yd) Sandcastle fabric for the bag flap and lining • 25cm x 38cm (10in x 15in) rectangle of red fabric for the flap lining • 15cm (1/6yd) blue print for the handle • Assorted fabrics for the appliqué • 50cm (5/8yd) Pellon • Fusible webbing • Stranded embroidery cotton to match the appliqué fabrics • No 9 crewel needle • Blue thread for piecing and quilting • Interfacing for the templates • Pencil • Rotary cutter, mat and ruler • General sewing supplies Sewing folder • 30cm (1/3yd) Sandcastle fabric • 30cm (1/3yd) lining fabric • 6, 6.5cm x 48cm (21/2in x 19in) strips of coordinating fabrics for the outside of the folder • 4, 6.5cm x 21.5cm (21/2in x 81/2in) strips of coordinating fabrics for the inner pockets • Fat quarter of red fabric for the binding • Assorted fabrics for the appliqué • 60cm (2/3yd) Pellon • Stranded embroidery cotton to match the appliqué fabrics • No 9 crewel needle • Fusible webbing • Neutral thread for piecing • Pink thread for quilting • 2, 20cm (8in) zippers • Interfacing for the templates • Pencil • Rotary cutter, mat and ruler • General sewing supplies

SHOULDER BAG Preparation Read all the instructions before beginning this project. It is recommended that fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and well ironed. Requirements are based on fabric 112cm (44in) wide. The 5mm (1/4in) seam allowance used throughout is included in the cutting measurements. Trace the bag, pocket and bag flap from the pattern sheet onto the interfacing with the pencil and cut them out on the lines. Trace the appliqué shapes from the pattern sheet onto the paper side of the fusible webbing and cut them out roughly, then iron them to the wrong side of the chosen fabrics and cut them out on the lines. Cutting From the Sandcastle fabric, cut: – one 21/2in x 35in strip for the gusset lining – two bag shapes for the front and back lining – one pocket

Construction Bag front and back With right sides facing sew seven of the 21/2in x 12in strips together along the long edges and press the seams in one direction. Centre the bag template on top and pin it in place, then cut around it. Pin a Pellon shape to the back of the front section and machine-quilt in the ditch between all the strips with blue thread. Repeat this process for the back of the bag, noting that one strip is left over. Pocket Stitch five of the 21/2in x 8in strips together down the long sides and press the seams in one direction. Cut around the template the same as for the bag front. Pin the pocket and lining together with right sides facing, then sew them together leaving a small opening along the bottom edge for turning. Clip the corners, turn it the right way out and press it, then slip-stitch the opening closed. Centre the pocket on the right side of the back lining piece 31/2in from the top edge and pin it in place. Sew down the sides and across the bottom, then stitch down between two of the strips to form two pocket sections. Gusset Join six of the 21/2in x 8in strips end to end to make one strip. Trim it to 35in long, then put the same-size Pellon strip at the back of it and sew three rows of stitching down the length of it with the blue thread.

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Note: Four strips are left over. Assembly Pin the front section of the bag to one side of the pieced gusset with right sides facing, putting extra pins at the curves, then stitch it in place. Repeat this process with the back of the bag. Lining Join the lining sections to each side of the 21/2in x 35in Sandcastle strip in the same way that the bag front and back panels were attached to the gusset, leaving an opening along one side edge. Then turn the lining the right way out. BAG FLAP Appliqué Peel the paper backing off the shapes and use the photograph and pattern sheet as guides to position them on the bottom right-hand curve of the Sandcastle fabric

flap. Then fuse them on and blanketstitch around them with two strands of matching embroidery cotton. Next, pin the appliquéd bag flap and the lining piece together right sides facing, with the Pellon shape on top, and sew around the flap leaving the straight edge open. Turn it right side out and press it. Pin the appliquéd side of the bag flap to the right side of the bag back across the top with raw edges even. Then put the lining inside the bag with right sides facing, matching the seams and top edge, and with the flap sandwiched in between. Then pin them together and sew around the top with a 1/2in seam allowance. Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining, then slip-stitch the opening closed. Push the lining into the bag and pull the bag flap up and out. Then press the bag and bag flap lightly and topstitch 1/4in from the edge around the top of it.

Handle Turn the short ends of the 391/2in blue fabric strip under 1/2in and press them, then turn one long side under 1/4in and press it as well. Lay the blue fabric strip right side down on a hard surface with the Pellon strip on top. Next, fold the remaining raw edge of it to the centre over the Pellon and press it, then the corresponding turned edge to overlap it. Press it and pin it in place, and sew two rows of stitching 1/8in apart down the length of the handle with the first one close to the folded edge. Pin the ends of the handle to the outside of the bag on each side of the gusset 11/2in from the top edge. Stitch them in place by sewing around in a small, neat square at the ends through all the layers. SEWING FOLDER Preparation Read all the instructions before beginning this project. It is recommended that fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and well ironed. Requirements are based on fabric 112cm (44in) wide. The 5mm (1/4in) seam allowance used throughout is included in the cutting measurements. Trace the curved shape from the pattern sheet onto the interfacing with the pencil and cut it out. Trace the appliqué shapes onto the paper side of the fusible webbing and cut them out roughly, then fuse them to the wrong side of the chosen fabrics. Cutting From the lining fabric, cut: – two 10in x 12in rectangles for the outer pockets

Top Folded edge

Zip

Raw edges

Diagram 1. Making the outer pockets

Diagram 2. Cutting the curves on the bottom corners

Layout diagram

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atthe sides and bottom. Press it along the top folded edge, then ladder-stitch the two pocket pieces together at both ends of the zip out to the side edges. Pin the curved template in the bottom corners and trim them, following diagram 2. Repeat these steps for the other zipper pocket.

– two 8in x 12in rectangles for the outer pockets – one 12in x 251/2in rectangle for the lining – one 71/2in x 81/2in rectangle for the centre pocket. From the Sandcastle fabric, cut: – two 10in x 12in rectangles for the outer pockets – two 8in x 12in rectangles for the outer pockets – one 7in x 12in rectangle for the front cover. From the Pellon, cut: – one 12in x 251/2in rectangle for the cover – two 10in x 12in rectangles or the outer pockets – two 8in x 12in rectangles for the outer pockets. From the red fabric, cut: – three 21/2in bias strips. Construction Front of the folder Stitch the six 21/2in x 19in coordinating fabric strips together with right sides facing along the long edges, pressing the seams in one direction. Trim the width to 12in cutting 1/4in from each side. Join the 7in x 12in Sandcastle fabric rectangle to one end of the pieced section and press the seam outwards.

quilt in the ditch in all the seamlines with the pink thread. Outer pockets Appliqué Peel the paper backing off the shapes and position them on the lower edge of the two 8in x 12in Sandcastle fabric rectangles. Then follow the instructions for the front of the folder to complete the appliqué. Layer a 10in x 12in lining rectangle wrong side up, then the same-size Pellon and Sandcastle fabric rectangle right side up, and overlock or zigzag-stitch along one of the 12in sides. Repeat this step with the other 10in x 12in rectangles and the 8in x 12in pieces. Turn the overlocked edges under 1/2in and press them well. Centre one side of a zipper on the turned edge of a 10in x 12in rectangle and sew it in place with a zipper foot on the sewing machine. Pin the other side of the zipper to the turned edge of an 8in x 12in piece and stitch it. Repeat this step with the other zipper and the remaining 10in x 12in and 8in x12in rectangles. Referring to diagram 1, fold one of the zipper sections in half with the lining on the inside and the raw edges aligned

Centre pocket Stitch four 21/2in x 81/2in strips together down the long edges and press the seams in one direction, then trim the length to 71/2in. With the pieced pocket section and the 71/2in x 81/2in lining rectangle right sides facing, stitch them together down the sides and across the top edge. Then clip the corners, turn it right side out and press it. Pin the pocket to the centre of the 12in x 251/2in lining rectangle with raw edges even, then sew down each side of it close to the edge to secure it to finish the project. Assembly Using the layout diagram as a guide, lay the front of the folder right side down on a hard surface with the 12in x 251/2in Pellon rectangle and lining right side up on top, aligning all the raw edges, then pin them together. Cut the corners the same way as before using the curved template. Pin the outer pockets to the inside of the folder at each end aligning the curved edges, then baste around the entire folder 1/8in from the edge. Binding Join the bias strips together with 45degree seams and press them open. Then fold the strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing and press it again. Sew the binding to the folder aligning the raw edges, then fold it over to the inside and slip-stitch it in place. ●

Appliqué Remove the paper backing from the appliqué shapes, then referring to the placement guide on the pattern sheet, position them on the Sandcastle fabric rectangle. When you are happy with the arrangement, fuse them on. Blanket-stitch around them with two strands of matching embroidery thread in the crewel needle. Quilting Layer the 12in x 251/2in Pellon rectangle and the folder front on top right side up. Then pin them together and machine15

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Country hearts Anna Jarman made this nautical-themed quilt that folds into a pillow. It’s great for travelling or small storage areas. Measurements Finished size: 33cm x 56cm (13in x 22in) Materials • 25cm x 28cm (10in x 11in) rectangle of pre-quilted calico • 5cm (2in) strip of calico • 15cm (1⁄6yd) olive green print for the border • 15cm (1⁄6yd) mustard print for the binding • 38cm x 63.5cm (15in x 25in) rectangle of backing fabric • 38cm x 63.5cm (15in x 25in) rectangle of batting • Assorted fabrics for the appliqué • Stranded embroidery cotton to match the appliqué fabrics • No 9 crewel needle • Cream sewing cotton for piecing and quilting • Vliesofix • 20mm (¾in) buttons: 4 cream • 10mm (3⁄8in) buttons: 5 assorted colours • Pigma pen: brown • Pencil • Lightbox (optional) • Rotary cutter, mat and ruler • General sewing supplies

Blanket stitch

Read all the instructions before beginning this project. It is recommended that fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and well ironed. Requirements are based on fabric 112cm (44in) wide. 5mm (¼in) seam allowances are used throughout and are included in the cutting instructions. Preparation Trace the shapes from page 80 onto the paper side of the Vliesofix with the pencil and cut them out roughly. Fuse them to the wrong side of the chosen fabrics then cut them out on the lines. Cutting From the calico, cut: – two 2in x 10in strips. From the olive green print, cut: – two 2in x 22in strips – four 2in x 10in strips. From the mustard print, cut: – two 2½in strips.

Assembly Join a 2in x 10in olive green print strip to the top and bottom of the pre-quilted calico panel and press the seams outwards. Stitch the two appliquéd calico strips to each of the olive green print ones then attach the other two 10in olive green print strips to the calico ones the same way as before. Sew the 2in x 22in olive green print strips to each side of the wall-hanging and press the seams outwards. Backing and quilting Lay the backing fabric right side down on a flat surface then the batting and the wallhanging right side up on top. Pin the layers together then machine-quilt around all the appliqué shapes, inside the inner edge of the two calico panels and around the border ¼in from the seamline with cream cotton. Binding Join the two binding strips together using 45-degree seams. Press the seams open then fold the strip in half lengthwise with the wrong sides facing and press it. Trim the backing and batting ¼in beyond the wallhanging top then sew the binding to the wall-hanging with raw edges even mitring the corners as you go. Join the ends neatly then turn the folded edge to the back and slip-stitch it in place.

Appliqué Remove the paper backing from the shapes then using the photograph as a guide for placement, position the hearts on the prequilted calico rectangle and the bird houses on the 2in x 10in calico strips. When you are happy with their arrangement fuse them in place. Thread the crewel needle with two strands of matching embroidery cotton and then blanket-stitch around each shape. Using a lightbox or a well-lit window, trace the words from the pattern sheet onto each of the 2in x 10in calico strips with the brown Pigma pen.

Finishing Stitch the four cream buttons in each corner on the cream quilting lines and the smaller ones onto each of the bird houses. ●

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AppliquĂŠ templates

Heart Cut 13

House Cut 5

Roof Cut 5

Wording design

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Jumbo Wonder Clips (24pcs.) Great holding capacity for many crafts. • •

Clip opens wide to hold layers of fabrics. Great alternative to pins, especially when working with vinyls, piles and heavy weight fabrics.

Wide opening

Guide scale

Art No. 3157

Flat back

6.5mm 13.0mm 19.0mm 25.5mm

Pin ‘n Stow • • •

It’s magnetic Band fits to write with a “Slap”. Grooved for easy pick up.

Art No. 9575

E- Tablet & Paper Tablet Trace‘n T E M P L AT E S NancyZieman Zieman Create Nancy Keepers 2.0 with

Note from Nancy: Create personalized tablet keepers for paper or electronic tablets such as Kindle Fire, Kindle 2nd Generation, Samsung Galaxy Tab and more. Now you can write, read or e-mail in style!

Both styles 5 Different Sizes

Paper Tablet Keeper

E- Tablett Keeper

Art No. 9577

Australian Distributors Ascot Lane Distributors www.ascotlane.com.au

019_Clover Co.indd 19 APQ23-03_14_CloverCo.indd 1

Birch Haberdashery & Craft www.birchhaby.com.au

QH Textiles www.qhtextiles.com

NZ Distributors Ascot Lane Distributors www.ascotlanedistributorsnz.co.nz

APQ23-03_14

CLOVER MFG. CO. LTD. 3-15-5 Nakamichi, Higashinari-Ku, Osaka, Japan www.clover-mfg.com info@clovermfg.com

6/12/13 3:34 19/09/13 8:53PM AM


Pretty in pink Susan Filer’s delightful quilt is a great way to use up your scraps of pink fabrics.

Measurements Finished size: 101.5cm (40in) square Materials • 49, 12.5cm (5in) square of assorted pink fabrics • 1.1m (11⁄5yd) ivory dupion silk • 30cm (1⁄3yd) pink floral print • 1.1m (11⁄5yd) backing fabric • 1.1m (11⁄5yd) cotton/polyester low-loft batting • Madeira machine-embroidery thread: variegated pink • Neutral sewing thread for piecing • 2mm (1⁄16in) bicones: 46 pink • Assorted pink, cream and white glass seed beads • Rotary cutter, mat and ruler • Pencil • Lightbox (optional) • General sewing supplies

Preparation Read all the instructions before beginning this project. It is recommended that fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and well ironed. Requirements are based on fabric 112cm (44in) wide. The 5mm (¼in) seam allowance used throughout is included in the cutting instructions. Cutting From the ivory dupion silk, cut: – seven 3in strips and crosscut 98, 3in squares – four 3in strips for the second border – four 2¼in strips for the binding. From the pink floral print, cut: – four 2in strips for the first border. Construction Fold two 3in silk squares in half on the diagonal and finger-press them along the fold line. As shown in diagram 1, with one square in the top right-hand corner of a 5in pink square right sides facing, sew along the fold line. Then flip the triangle back to make the corner of the block and press it.

Note: As silk is prone to fray don’t trim it from the back. Repeat the process with the second silk square in the bottom left-hand corner of the pink square. Continue until all the squares are complete. Using the photograph as a guide, lay out the blocks in seven rows of seven all running in one direction. Stitch them together in rows and press the seams of each row in opposite directions. The ivory silk triangles overlap in the design to create diagonal paths for the quilting lines. Join the rows together abutting the seams at the intersections then press them to one side. Borders Sew a 2in pink print strip to each of the 3in silk strips and press the seams towards the pink print strips. Measure the length of the quilt and mark the centre points on the sides. Mark the centres of two border strips then measure out from this point and mark the edges of the quilt. Then, matching these marks, sew a border strip to each side of the quilt beginning and ending ¼in from the edge

and press the seams towards the pink print border. Repeat this step for the top and bottom of the quilt. Mitred corners Fold the quilt in half diagonally with right sides together. Align the edges and border seamlines. Put the ruler along the diagonal fold line through the centre of the quilt top. Extend the ruler out over the border edge and mark the diagonal line lightly with a pencil. The line should be at 45 degrees to the outer edges of the border. Beginning at the inner corner, stitch on the pencil line, backstitching at the beginning of the seam. Open the quilt out and check that the seam lies flat, then trim the fabric leaving a ¼in seam allowance and press the seam open. Trace the three rose quilting design from the pattern sheet on two opposite corners of the second border with a lightbox or a well-lit window and the pencil. Then trace the single rose on the two other corners and randomly in the centres of some of the blocks. Backing Layer the backing fabric right side down on a hard surface, the batting and the quilt top right side up. Baste them together with safety pins for machine-quilting or thread for hand-quilting. Quilting With the variegated pink embroidery thread and decorative machine-stitching, quilt diagonally along the path created during the piecing process. Silk square

PINK SQUARE Stitching line

Diagram 1. Stitching silk squares

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If your machine doesn’t have a suitable decorative stitch, straight-stitch several wavy lines that overlap each other to make an attractive pattern. Machine-quilt in the ditch around the inner border in a decorative scallop stitch if you like. Then free-motion-stitch all the roses.

Stitch four wavy lines extending 16in from the top left-hand and bottom righthand corners along the inner edge of the second border. Binding Join the four 2Âźin silk strips end to end with 45-degree seams and press them

open. With wrong sides facing fold the strip in half lengthwise and press it. Stitch the binding to the quilt aligning the raw edges and mitring the corners as you go. Fold the binding to the back and slip-stitch it in place. Attach the beads randomly along the wavy lines on the second border to finish. â—?

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a’s – Clothing ,b and accessorie s

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Fat M

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hoot hoot These cute little fellows designed by Annalisse Wakenshaw are just the right size for a child to tuck under its arm. They would make great companions – or sit on a shelf keeping watch. Measurements 15cm x 20cm (6in x 8in) Materials Sufficient to make stripy owl:• 20cm (1/4yd) orange multi-stripe print • 32cm (123/4in) square orange/white print • 20cm (1/4yd) green tone-on-tone print • 10cm (1/8yd) red print • DMC Stranded Embroidery Cotton: 1 skein each of medium baby blue (334), bright red (666) • 18mm (3/4in) buttons: 3 orange • Embroidery needle • 20cm (1/4yd) Vliesofix • Tracing paper • Water-erasable pen • Polyester filling • Matching sewing machine cotton Stitches Used

Whipstitch For backstitch diagram, please refer to page 42.

Preparation It is recommended fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and ironed. Requirements are based on fabrics 112cm (44in) wide. The 6mm (1/4in) seam allowance used throughout is included in the cutting measurements. Read through the instructions before you begin. Trace the body, ears and feet shapes from the pattern sheet onto tracing paper and cut them out. Fold the orange multi-stripe print in half with right sides facing and pin the body pattern to it, then draw around it with the watererasable pen and cut it out. Repeat the process with the orange/white print, cutting two pairs of ears and feet. Appliqué Trace two eyes, the beak, the front feathers and three back feathers onto the paper side of the Vliesofix leaving 1/2in between them. Cut them out roughly then fuse the eyes and two back feathers to the wrong side of the red print, the beak to the orange/white print then the front feathers and one back feather to the green tone-on-tone print. Then cut them all out on the line. Put the pattern sheet on a lightbox or against a well-lit window, place one eye over it and trace the lines with the water-erasable pen. Then repeat this for the other eye. Peel the paper backing off the front feathers, beak and eyes then fuse them to the owl front, see diagram 1. Do this again for the feathers on the back. Backstitch around the eyes, the circles on them, around the beak and then the back feathers with three strands of medium baby blue (334). Backstitch along the bottom edge

Stripy owl

Country Owl Diagram 1. Placement guide. Back

of the front feathers with bright red (666). Then sew a button in each eye and one at the base of the tail feathers with medium baby blue (334). Construction Sew each pair of ears and feet together with right sides facing, leaving the bottoms open. Clip the edges at 3/8in intervals without cutting the stitches, then turn them right side out and stuff them with polyester filling. Stitch them in place on the front of the owl with 1 /8in seam allowance, see diagram 2. Sew the back and front together right sides facing leaving, a 2in opening on one side for turning. Clip the edges at 11/2in intervals, then turn it right side out and stuff it with polyester filling. Fold the edges of the gap inside and whipstitch it closed. ●

Pastel owl Diagram 2. Sew the ears and feet in place.

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leanne’s carryall This stylish bag by Leeanne Pitman is great for crafters on the move.

Measurements Finished size: 47cm x 57cm (181/2in x 221/2in) Materials • 25cm x 28cm (10in x 11in) rectangle of cream tone-on-tone print for the centre panel • 25cm (1/4yd) each of 5 coordinating fabrics – label them 1-5 • 2, 48cm x 58.5cm (19in x 23in) rectangles of lining fabric • 70cm (3/4yd) batting • Anchor stranded embroidery cotton: 1 skein each of 860, 1019, 1027 • No 7 crewel needle • Pigma pen: black • Quilt-basting spray (optional) • Lightbox (optional) • Rotary cutter, mat and ruler Stitches Used

Backstitch

Preparation Read all the instructions before beginning this project. It is recommended that fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and well ironed. Requirements are based on fabric 112cm (44in) wide. The 5mm (1/4in) seam allowances used throughout are included in the cutting measurements. Cutting For the bag front From fabric 1, cut: – two 11/2in x 11in strips (A and B) – two 11/2in x 20in strips (C and D). From fabrics 2 and 3, cut: – 14, 2in x 21/2in rectangles from each (E and F). From fabric 4, cut: – two 31/2in x 20in strips (G and H) – two 2in x 20in strips (I and J). For the bag back and handles From the remaining fabrics, cut: – one 4in x 19in strip – one 31/2in x 19in strip – two 3in x 19in strips – two 21/2in x 19in strips – four 2in x 19in strips – two 11/2in x 19in strips – two 4in x 35in strips for the handles. From the batting, cut: – two 21in x 26in rectangles for the bag – two 11/2in x 35in strips for the handles.

C E

F

F

E

F

E

E

F

E

F

F

E

F

E

E

F

A

Centre Block

Embroidery Trace the design from the pattern sheet onto the centre panel using a lightbox or a well-lit window and the black pen, positioning the heart shape 21/2in from the top of the panel. Write a name of your choice under the heart as shown in the photograph. Note: Try using a computer and your favourite font to write the name. Print it out and then trace it on. Backstitch the design with two strands of cotton, using 1027 for the flowers, 860 for the leaves and vine and 1019 for the lettering.

G

I

Construction Using the layout diagram as a guide, piece the front of the bag in the following order. Stitch strips A and B to each side of the centre panel and press the seams outwards. Sew the E and F rectangles in pairs along the 2in sides and press the seams to the darker fabric. Then join the pairs together in two sets of seven with the seams abutting to make a checkerboard and attach them to each side of the panel. Stitch the C and D strips to the top and bottom of it then add the G and H strips in the same way. Finally stitch the I and J borders to each side of the bag front. Arrange the 12, 19in strips for the back of the bag in a pleasing way, sew them together down the long sides and press the seams to one side.

B

E

F

F

E

F

E

E

F

E

F

F

E

D H

Diagram 1. Layout of the bag front

J

Quilting Layer the front and back sections of the bag with the batting rectangles and secure them together with pins or quilt-basting spray. Machine-quilt in the ditch between all the strips and around the centre block on the front. Trim the batting level with the edges. Assembly Pin the front and back together with right sides facing and sew down the sides and across the bottom. To shape the corners, flatten the side seam to align with the bottom seam making a triangle.

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Pin across it to hold the two matching seams in place. Measure 11/2in from the end point of the triangle and sew across the base of it. Trim the pointed piece off and overlock the seam, see diagram 2. Repeat this step for the other corner then turn the bag the right way out. Lining Stitch the two lining pieces together the same way as the bag leaving an 8in opening along one side edge for turning. Shape the corners as before. Handles Centre the 11/2in batting strips on the wrong side of the handle strips, fold one

long side over to the middle and press it. Then turn under a 1/4in hem on the other long edge and fold it over to the centre, overlapping the raw edge. Press it then stitch down the length of the handle to secure the folded edge in place. Sew four more rows of stitching down each handle, spacing them evenly. Pin the handles to the top edge on the front and back of the bag 5in from each side seam with right sides facing and raw edges even. Stitch them in place with a 1/8in seam allowance. Finishing Put the bag inside the lining with right sides facing, side seams aligned and the handles sandwiched in between then

11/2in Trim 1/4in away

Diagram 2. Forming the corners stitch around the top edge. Turn the bag through the opening in the lining and slip-stitch it closed. Push the lining into the bag and press it then topstitch 1/4in from the upper edge to finish. â—?

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Spend over $50.00 to receive 10% DISCOUNT when you enter code APQ23-03FP

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APQ23-03_04_fabricpatch.indd 1

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Shop Hours MON – FRI - 9am – 4pm SAT - 9am – 1pm

We provide the full range of Fossil Ferns, a wide range of Quilt backings, Patterns and Kits. And we are stockists of Frances Lily Designs and Hot Possum Patterns.

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butterflies and flowers Keep the dust at bay with this sewing machine cover designed by Heather Waldron.

Measurements Finished size: 32cm x 43cm (121/2in x 17in) Materials • 80cm (7/8yd) cream and green check fabric • 20cm (1/4yd) purple mottled fabric for the piping and binding • 80cm (7/8yd) lining fabric • 80cm (7/8yd) cotton batting • Anchor stranded embroidery cotton: 1 skein each of 266, 872, 873, 891 • No 9 crewel needle • Matching sewing thread • 50cm (5/8yd) thin piping cord • Tracing paper • Pencil • Rotary cutter, mat and ruler • Zipper foot • Lightbox (optional) Stitches Used For backstitch diagram, please refer to page 42. For blanket stitch diagram, please refer to page 12.

Preparation Read all the instructions before beginning this project. It is recommended that fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and well ironed. Requirements are based on fabric 112cm (44in) wide. The 5mm (1/4in) seam allowances used throughout are included in the cutting measurements. Trace the side panel and pocket shape from the pattern sheet onto the tracing paper with the pencil and cut them out on the lines. Cutting From the cream and green check fabric, cut: – one 113/4in x 171/2in rectangle for the front cover – one 171/2in square for the back cover – two 91/2in x 13in rectangles for the side panels – one 6in x 91/2in rectangle for the side pocket. From the purple mottled fabric, cut: – one 11/4in x 171/2in strip for the piping – two 21/2in strips for the binding. From each of the lining fabric and cotton batting, cut: – one 13in x 19in rectangle for the front cover – one 19in square for the back cover – two 11in x 15in rectangles for the side panels – one 6in x 91/2in rectangle for the side pocket. Embroidery Using the lightbox or a well-lit window, trace the larger embroidery design from the pattern sheet onto the 113/4in x 171/2in cream and green check fabric rectangle 11/2in from the bottom and 21/2in from the right-hand side edge with the pencil. Trace the smaller design onto the back cover in the bottom right-hand corner the same as the front one then trace the single butterfly onto the side-pocket rectangle in the top right-hand corner referring to the pattern sheet for placement. Lay each of the embroidery pieces on top of the corresponding batting rectangle and baste them together. Referring to the pattern sheet for the placement of the colours, stitch the designs with two strands of thread in the crewel needle through both layers to give it a quilted look.

Backstitch the main design lines and blanket-stitch the centre of the flowers. When the embroidery is complete, press it gently on the wrong side. Quilting Baste the linings to the back of each of the embroidered rectangles and quilt as desired. Trim the lining and batting even with the cover top and press them lightly. Piping Fold the 11/4in x 171/2in purple mottled strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing and press it. Place the piping cord inside along the folded edge and stitch close to the cord using a zipper foot. Trim the seam to 1/4in. Pin the piping to the top edge of the front cover with raw edges even and stitch close to the cord. With right sides facing, stitch the front and back cover together along the top edge. Note: Overlock or zigzag all the seams for a neat finish Side panels Sandwich the batting between the side panels and lining pieces and quilt as desired then cut them to shape using the template. Pocket Cut a 7 1/2in length from the purple mottled fabric binding strip then with wrong sides facing fold it in half lengthwise and press it. Stitch it to the top of the pocket with right sides facing and raw edges even. Fold

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the binding to the back and slip-stitch it in place. Pin the pocket on top of one side panel with the bottom and side edges even then sew them together within the seam allowance.

With right sides facing, pin the cover to the side panels matching all the raw edges and easing around the curve of the panel. Stitch them together and neaten the seams as before. Join the 2 1/2in purple binding

strips together with a 45-degree seam and press the seam open, then fold it in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing and press it. Stitch it to the bottom edge of the cover the same way as the pocket binding. â—?

873 873

266 266

873

Embroidery design for the back of the cover

872

891

891

873

266

Embroidery design for the front of the cover 891

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Side pocket Template outline Actual Size

Side panel Template outline Increase by 200%

891 873

872

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pink & cream delight Heather Lownds had a gorgeous floral striped fat quarter in her stash that she wanted to use. This particular block allowed her to make use of the two different colourways on the fabric.

Measurements Finished block: 21cm (81/4in) square Finished wall hanging: 53cm (21in) square Materials • Fat quarter with 5.6cm (21/4in) light and dark floral stripes • Fat quarter each of burgundy toneon-tone, cream tone-on-tone, pink tone-on-tone prints • 70cm (3/4yd) backing fabric • 63.5cm (25in) square of Pellon • Matching machine-sewing cotton • Rotary cutter, ruler and mat Note: It is recommended fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and ironed. Requirements are based on fabrics 112cm (44in) wide. All strips are cut across the width of the fabric unless stated otherwise. The 6mm (1/4in) seam allowance used throughout is included in the cutting measurements. Read through the instructions before you begin. E D D

B

B B

D

B

D

F

E

E

F

A D D

D A

B

E

F

B

F

E

E BD B D

A

E

B

E

F

B

F

E

B

C

B

D

D D

A F

E

B

E

F

B

D

B

D

D D

B H

Diagram 1. Block layout.

Cutting From the length of the floral striped print, fussy-cut from the pale stripes: – four 13/4in strips and crosscut 16, 13/4in x 41/4in strips (A). From the length of the floral striped print, fussy-cut from the dark stripes: – six 21/2in strips. From the remainder of the floral striped print, cut: – six 2in strips for the binding. From the burgundy tone-on-tone print, cut: – four 21/8in strips and crosscut 32, 21/8in squares then cut them once on the diagonal to make 64 half square triangles (B) – four 13/4in squares (C). From the cream tone-on-tone print, cut: – four 21/8in strips and crosscut 32, 21/8in squares then cut them once on the diagonal to make 64 half-square triangles (D) – four 13/4in strips and crosscut 48, 13/4in squares (E). From the pink tone-on-tone print, cut: – three 13/4in strips and crosscut 32, 13/4in squares (F). From the backing fabric, cut: – one 25in square – one 3in x 191/2in strip for the hanging sleeve. Construction Lay out the pieces for one block as shown in diagram 1. Sew the B and D half-square triangles together with right sides facing and press the seams to the dark side. Join the F and E squares together pressing the seams as before. Sew the squares in the corners of the block in three rows of three, pressing the seams in alternate rows in opposite directions then join the rows together pressing the seams in one direction. You now have three rows of three pieces. Sew them together in rows then join the rows together. Make four blocks. Lay out the four blocks then join them together in two rows of two abutting the seams, then stitch the rows together.

Border Join the 21/2in dark floral strips end to end matching the designs, trim the seam allowances and press them open. Crosscut four 211/2in strips ensuring the seams are at least 41/2in from the end. Find the centre of a strip and pin it to the centre of one side of the pieced panel. Sew the border in place starting and ending 1/4in from the edge of the panel. Repeat for the other sides. Put the wall-hanging on the ironingboard with the wrong side facing up, fold the ends of the borders back at 90-degrees to form the mitred corners and press them. Open the border ends, stitch them together matching the fold lines, and trim the surplus. Then press the corner seams open and the border seams outwards. Backing Lay the backing fabric square right side down on a firm surface with the Pellon and the wallhanging front centred over it with the right side facing up, then pin them together. Quilting Stitch in the ditch on both sides of the A pieces and the inner edge of the border with matching thread. Binding Join the binding strips end to end then fold it in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing, press it then sew it to the front mitring the corners as you go. Trim the surplus backing and Pellon. Hanging sleeve Turn a double 1/4in hem on both short ends of the hanging sleeve strip and stitch them. Fold it in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing and press it. Sew it at the top on the wrong side with raw edges aligned and 1/8in seam allowance. Turn the binding to the back and slip-stitch it in place. Pin the hanging through the centre, fold the pressed edge up 1/4in and finger-press it. Slip-stitch it to the backing along this fold and through the back layer on the ends to allow room for a hanger. ●

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Sally Rhonda Thornley’s adorable cloth doll in her pretty check pinafore simply must be the next project for all those who love stitching. Measurements Finished size: 46cm (18in) tall Materials • 30cm(1/3yd) tea-dyed calico for the body • 30cm (1/3yd) blue and white floral check print for the pinafore • 30cm (1/3yd) blue and white striped fabric for the bloomers • 20cm (1/4yd) white tone-on-tone print for the frill and heart • 15cm (1/6yd) blue tone-on-tone print for the blouse • Small piece of Vliesofix • DMC Stranded Embroidery Cotton: 1 skein of light blue (813) • No 7 crewel needle • Matching sewing cotton • Lion Brand Yarn: Homespun – rococo for the hair • 1.3m (13/8yd) white ricrac • 10mm (3/8in) buttons: 4 blue • 10mm (3/8in) wooden cotton reels: 2 • Assortment of sewing notion buttons or charms • Small safety pin • Toothpick • Polyester filling • Stuffing tool or chopstick • Pinking shears • Craft glue • Hot-glue gun and glue sticks • 5cm x 25cm (2in x 10in) piece of cardboard • Powder blush • Pigma .01 pen: black • White acrylic paint • Template plastic • Tracing paper • Tear-away backing • Water-erasable marking pen • Pencil Stitches Used For backstitch diagram, please refer to page 42. For blanket stitch diagram, please refer to page 12. For French knot diagram, please refer to page 16.

Preparation Read all the instructions before beginning this project. It is recommended that fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and ironed. Seam allowances of 1/4in are used throughout. Requirements are based on fabrics 112cm (44in) wide. Trace the body, leg, arm and large heart shape from the pattern sheet onto the template plastic and cut them out. Trace the clothing patterns from the pattern sheet onto tracing paper and cut them out. Pin them to the appropriate fabrics and cut around them. Trace the small heart shape from the pattern sheet onto the paper side of the Vliesofix and cut it out roughly. Fuse it to the wrong side of blue and white check print and cut it out on the line. Cutting From the blue and white floral check print, cut: – one 9in x 301/2in rectangle for the skirt – one 2in x 10in strip for the waistband – two 2in x 7in strips for the straps – two bibs. From the blue and white striped fabric, cut: – two bloomers on the fold. From the white tone-on-tone print, cut: – one 21/2in strip for the frill – one 21/2in x 26in strip for the frill – two 6in squares for the heart. From the blue tone-on-tone print, cut: – two bodices on the fold. Body Trace one body, two arms and two legs onto folded tea-dyed calico with a pencil, ensuring there is 3/4in between the shapes as the traced line is the stitching line. Using a shorter than normal stitch length, sew on the lines leaving openings where indicated on the pattern. Cut around the shapes with a scant 1/4in seam allowance. Clip the curves and turn them right side out. Fill the body, arms and legs with polyester filling using a stuffing tool or chopstick. Fill the head and main body well, and the arms and legs to the fill lines then stitch across them. Turn in a narrow hem along the body opening and pin the legs inside with the toes pointing to the front, ensuring they are equal in length. Stitch

the body closed securing the legs at the same time. Sew the arms firmly to the shoulders. Bloomers Turn a 3/8in hem under at the bottom of the legs then sew a piece of ricrac on, stitching the hem at the same time. With right sides facing stitch both curved seams. Open them out and pin the inner leg seam from ankle to ankle. Stitch the seam then turn the bloomers right side out and press a 1/4in hem under around the waist. Using matching sewing thread, running-stitch around the waist leaving the ends loose then put the bloomers on the doll, pull the threads up and secure them. Blouse With right sides together sew from the wrist, along the sleeve, under the arm and down to the bottom of the blouse then sew the shoulder seams. Clip the underarms and turn it right side out. Stitch a narrow hem along the bottom edge. Turn a small hem under around the sleeves, then using matching sewing cotton running-stitch around them leaving the ends loose. Put the blouse on the doll then pull up the gathers on the sleeves and secure the thread. Turn a small hem under at the neck then stitch either side of the neck edge so the dress fits snugly here. Pinafore Stitch the bib pieces together with right sides facing, leaving the bottom edge open. Turn it right side out and press it, then Straps

Topstitch Waistband

Centre back seam Diagram 1. Position of the straps.

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stitch the ricrac around the two sides and top edge as shown in the photograph. Press the 2in x 10in blue and white print strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing. Pin the bib to the centre of the strip with raw edges even and the right side of the bib facing the back of the waistband then baste it in place within the 1/4in seam allowance. Trim the selvedge from the ends of the two 21/2in white tone-on-tone print strips then stitch them together end to end and press the seam open. Fold the strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing and press it. Machine-stitch two rows of gathering across the raw edges on the long side. Pull up the thread and gather it to fit the lower edge of the skirt. Even out the gathers then pin it to the skirt and stitch the seam. Overlock or zigzag the seam for a neat finish. Press the seam upwards then topstitch it close to the seam. Machine-stitch two rows of gathering across the top of the skirt. Pull up the thread and gather it to fit the waistband. Even out the gathers then pin it in place and stitch the seam then neaten it the same way as the frill. Press the waistband upwards. Fold the skirt in half with right sides facing and stitch the centre back seam then press it open. Fold a 2in x 7in blue and white floral check print strip in half lengthwise with right sides facing and sew down the length and across one end. Clip the corners, turn it the right way out and press it. Repeat for the other strap. Pin the raw ends of the straps to the back of the waistband on the inside as shown in diagram 1, then topstitch along the folded edge of the waistband, attaching the straps at the same time. Sew the blue buttons in each top corner of the bib then put the pinafore on the doll, bring the straps to the front under the bib and glue them in place where the buttons sit using the craft glue. Heart Remove the paper from the back of the small heart shape. Centre one of the 6in white tone-ontone print squares on top of the heart pattern then using a lightbox or a well-lit window for placement, fuse the heart appliqué in place. Then trace the rest of the design on the square using the watererasable marking pen.

Using two strands of 831, blanketstitch around the small heart and backstitch the wording, working a French knot for all the dots. Stitch a blue button to the centre of the appliqué heart and one just above the letter ‘w’ then attach the other novelty buttons or charms as shown in the photograph. Pin the two 6in white tone-on-tone print squares together with wrong sides facing and work small running stitches with same thread as the embroidery along the outline till about 1in from the start. Stuff the heart lightly with the polyester filling then finish the stitching. Trim the heart 1/4in from the outline using the pinking shears. Wind some thread around the cotton reels and secure it with craft glue then glue one to the top right-hand corner and the other one to the bottom of the heart. Attach the safety pin to the right-hand side. Stitch the ends of the hands to the back of the heart on each side, referring to the photograph for placement.

Hair Wind the yarn over the length of the 2in x 10in piece of cardboard about 25 times depending on the thickness of the wool then slide it off the cardboard. Draw a 2in line on the tear-away backing then centre the wool on the line and stitch down the centre of the strands with matching thread, pushing them up close together. Tear the backing away and cut the loops then glue it to the head using the hotglue gun with the stitching line running down the back of the head. Separate six strands from the top of the head and cut them to form a fringe then fluff it out for a softer look. Cut the remaining ricrac in half and tie them in bows around the hair to form pigtails then neaten the ends. Face Draw the eyes, nose and mouth with the black Pigma pen, place a small white dot in the eyes using the white paint and a toothpick, then blush the cheeks. ●

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Template outlines Embroidery design Enlarge by 200% Leave open

Head and body

Arm

Waist

Leave open

Leg

Stuffing line Trace 1 on folded fabric

Bloomers

Trace 2 on folded fabric

Fold

Stuffing line

Cut 2 on the fold

Trace 2 on folded fabric

Leave open

Bib Cut 2

Leave open Neck Cut Small heart

Blouse Cut 2 on the fold

Fold

Cut

Large heart Cut 2

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Sweethearts cuddle quilt Leeanne Pitman’s quilt features a charming heart print in the block centres, with a matching hearts and nine-patch print for the border. There’s a matching pillowslip too! Measurements Quilt: 136cm (53½in) square Pillowslip: 46cm x 74cm (18in x 29in) Materials • 1.5m (12⁄3yd) medium-scale heart print for the blocks • 50cm (5⁄8yd) each of 5 coordinating tone-on-tone prints: pink, green, blue, yellow, purple for the block borders and sashing • 50cm (5⁄8yd) small-scale heart/ nine-patch print • 3.1m (33⁄8yd) backing fabric • 152cm (60in) square of batting • Neutral-coloured cotton thread for piecing • Variegated cotton thread for quilting • Rotary cutter, ruler and mat • Sewing machine • General sewing supplies Note: It is recommended all fabric be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and well ironed. The ¼in seam allowances used throughout are included in the cutting directions. Requirements are based on fabrics 112cm (44in) wide. Please read the instructions before you begin.

Cutting From the medium-scale heart print, cut: – three 6½in strips and crosscut 16, 6½in squares – fussy-cut nine 2½in squares for the cornerstones with a heart motif centred in each – one 33in strip and crosscut one 18½in x 33in rectangle for the pillowslip back and trim one 18½in x 27in rectangle for the front. From each of the pink, green, yellow and purple tone-on-tone prints, cut: – four 2½in strips and crosscut 16, 2½in x 8½in strips – two 2½in strips. Put one aside for the binding and trim a 2½in x 18½in strip from the other for the pillowslip. From the blue tone-on-tone print, cut: – six 2½in strips and crosscut 24, 2½in x 10½in sashing strips – one 2½in binding strip. From the small-scale heart/nine-patch print, cut: – five 4in strips for the border. Block construction Stitch the borders around the 16, 6½in heart print squares, referring to diagram 1 and the following steps. With the right sides together, match the raw edges of one side of the square with one end of a 2½in x 6½in tone-on-tone print strip, and stitch the seam from the top to within 1in of the bottom raw edge. Press the seam outwards and leave the end of the border strip hanging loose. Turn the block clockwise and stitch a matching strip to the next side, sewing from raw edge to raw edge. Press the seam outwards, then stitch a third matching strip to the next side in the same manner. Sew the fourth matching strip in place, keeping the loose end of strip 1 out of the way and press the seam as before. Turn the block again and fold strip 1 down over the centre square. Then with the raw

edges aligned, complete the seam for strip 1, from the end of the previous stitching to the outer raw edge of strip 4. Press the block well. Make the 16 blocks in the same manner, using matching strips for each one. Assembly Lay the blocks out in four rows of four blocks, using the photograph of the quilt as a guide for colour placement. Then with a blue sashing strip placed vertically between the blocks in each row, stitch the blocks and sashing into rows, pressing the seams towards the sashing. Join four sashing strips together end to end with a 2½in heart motif square between each, and press the seams towards the sashing. Make three sashing rows this way. Sew the three sashing and four block rows together alternately, abutting the intersecting seams as you go. Then press the quilt centre well. Border Remove the selvedges from the ends of the 4in border strips and stitch them together end to end. Trim two 46½in strips and sew them to either side of the quilt top, matching the ends and quarter points. Press the seams outwards. Trim two strips to 53½in and sew them to the upper and lower edges in the same manner, then press the seams outwards. Backing Cut the backing fabric into two equal lengths and remove the selvedges. Stitch the long edges together and press the seam open. Tape the backing face down on a large flat surface with masking tape, so that the fabric is taut and square. Lay the batting over the backing then the quilt top face up in the centre of it. Smooth out all the wrinkles and pin-baste the three layers together in a 4in grid ready for machinequilting, or thread-baste them for hand-quilting.

Diagram 1. Stitch the borders around the centre square. 40

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Press a ½in double-fold hem under on one 18½in end of the 18½in x 27in heart print rectangle and stitch it. Fold 5½in to the wrong side along the hemmed edge and press it, then stitch the strip-set to the opposite end, see photograph 1. Back Press a ½in double-fold hem under on one 18½in end of the 18½in x 33in heart print rectangle and stitch it. Press 3½in to the wrong side along the hemmed edge.

Quilting Leeanne machine-quilted a small meandering design in variegated thread all over the blocks and block borders with a larger version in the border, leaving the sashing and cornerstones unquilted. Quilt as desired. Binding Remove the selvedges from the 2½in tone-on-tone print binding strips and sew them together end to end, then press the strip in half lengthways wrong sides together. Starting midway along one side stitch the binding around the quilt top

with all the raw edges aligned and mitring the corners as you go. Trim the backing and backing 1/4in beyond the edge of the quilt top, then fold the binding to the back of the quilt and slip-stitch it in place. To hang the quilt on the wall, add a hanging sleeve on the top edge at the back then slip-stitch the binding in place. Pillowslip Front Stitch the four 2½in x 18½in tone-ontone print strips together side by side and press all the seams one way.

Assembly With the back and front pieces right sides together, match the raw edges along both sides and the end, and pin them. Then pin the folded end of the back piece so it is wrong sides together with the back, fold the hemmed flap of the pillowslip front over the back piece along the pressed fold and pin it along both sides. This encloses the open end of the pillowslip at this stage but after stitching, the raw edges are inside giving it a neat finish. Stitch down both long sides and across the bottom, stitching back and forth to reinforce it at the open ends. Remove the pins, turn the front flap back over to the front then turn the cover right side out with nice sharp corners, and press it well. ●

Photograph 1. Stitch the strip-set to one end of the pillow-slip front.

Front pressed fold

Right side of front flap

Inside front flap

Inside back

Diagram 2. Fold the front flap to the back and stitch the raw edges.

Inside front

Diagram 3. Turn the flap to the front enclosing the side seams.

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country treasures Ann Francene Dimmer designed this expanding book to hold all your sewing essentials and notes for your next workshop. Measurements Finished size: 24cm x 32cm (91/2in x 121/2in) Materials • Fat quarter of osnaburg • Felt squares: 2 white • 2, 25cm x 33cm (10in x 13in) rectangles of pink tone-on-tone print for the inside front and back covers • 25cm x 33cm (10in x 13in) rectangle of green striped floral print for the back cover • 7.5cm x 33cm (3in x 13in) rectangle of green striped fabric for pocket A • 25cm x 33cm (10in x 13in) rectangle of beige print for pockets B and a 28cm x 33cm (11in x 13in) rectangle for pocket D • 33cm x 46cm (13in x 18in) rectangle of green paisley print for pocket C • 7.5cm x 20cm (3in x 8in) rectangle of purple felt • 7.5cm x 12.5cm (3in x 5in) rectangle of burgundy felt • 50cm (5/8yd) iron-on Pellon • DMC Stranded Embroidery Cotton: 1 skein of very dark shell pink (221) • No 7 crewel needle • 4cm (11/2in) laces: 25cm (1/4yd) each of cream and variegated green • 20mm (3/4in) ruffled ribbon: 25cm (1/4yd) dark red • Silver flower button • 15mm (5/8in) organdie ribbon: 50cm (5/8yd) light green • 2mm (1/16in) double-sided satin ribbon: 20cm (1/4yd) dark red • 4.5cm (13/4in) brown buckle • 5cm x 8cm (2in x 31/4in) cream crochet bag • 6mm (1/4in) red crystal bicones: 2 red • Wooden cut-outs: country, quilts, pins • Scissor charm • 8 lace flower motifs • 25mm (1in) hinged rings: 4

Preparation Read the instructions before beginning this project. It is recommended that all fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, pre-washed and well ironed. Requirements are based on fabric 112cm (44in) wide. The 5mm (1/4in) seam allowance used throughout is included in the cutting instructions unless stated otherwise. Use the pinking shears for cutting the felt pieces. FRONT COVER Embroidery Mark out a 10in x 13in rectangle on the osnaburg fabric then, using a lightbox or a well-lit window, trace the embroidery design in the centre of the rectangle with the pencil. Cut a piece of Pellon slightly larger than the rectangle then fuse it to the back of the embroidery panel. Using two strands of very dark shell pink (221) stem-stitch the main design lines, work buttonhole stitch for the large flowers on the left-hand side and blanket stitch for the ones on the right-hand side. Use lazy daisy stitch for the small flowers on the dress and the small leaves. Running-stitch the lines on the dress and the hat and the bee’s trail then straight-stitch the gathers on the hat and the sleeves on the dress. Work French knots for all

the dots and cross stitch for the letters and on the back of the hat. Satin-stitch the bee’s body, then use lazy daisy stitch for the wings and straight stitch for the antennae. Running-stitch around the edge of the panel 1/2in from the line. Hand-stitch the ruffled ribbon to the bottom of the skirt, then press the embroidery lightly and cut it out. Tie a bow from the satin ribbon and stitch it to the bottom of the hat, then attach the silver flower button to the girl’s hand. Front and back inside covers Cut two pieces of Pellon the same size as the pink tone-on-tone print rectangles and baste them to the wrong side of the fabric. Pocket A Fold pocket A in half lengthwise with right sides facing, stitch the long edge then turn it the right way out and press it. Following diagram 1, pin it to the front inside cover 4in from the top edge. Stitch along the bottom edge of the pocket, then mark five segments 2in apart across the width and stitch them. Attach two lace flowers to each top corner of the purple felt rectangle then the wooden cut-outs as shown in the photograph. Handstitch the purple felt above the pocket 11/4in

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• 8 large eyelets and eyelet setting tool • A4 plastic sheet protectors • Template plastic • Pigma pen: brown • Pinking shears • Sharp scissors or scrapbooking eyelet punch • Lightbox (optional) • Rotary cutter, mat and ruler

Stitches Used

from the top using two strands of very dark shell pink (221) in herringbone stitch. Blanket stitch

buttonhole stitch

herringbone stitch For cross stitch diagram, please refer to page 76. For French knot stitch diagram, please refer to page 16.

Pocket B Press pocket B in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing and pin it to the bottom edge of the cover with raw edges even and baste around the raw edges. Stitch a smaller pocket 31/2in from the left-hand side. Thread the red beads onto each end of the crochet ties on the bag and knot the ends, then hand-stitch the bag to the pocket over the stitching line. Fold the burgundy felt rectangle in half then attach the wooden cut-out, the scissor charm and a lace flower as shown. Finally, stitch the felt to the right-hand side of the pocket in the same way as the purple felt. Pocket C Press pocket C in half widthwise with wrong sides facing then stitch the variegated green lace along the folded edge. Baste the pocket to the bottom of the back inside cover with raw edges even.

Pocket D Press the pocket in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing. Thread the cream lace through the buckle then stitch it to the top of the pocket. Attach three lace flowers to the lefthand side of the lace. Baste the pocket on top of pocket C as shown in diagram 2, then stitch down the centre of it through all layers to create two smaller pockets. Assembly Cut the organdie ribbon in half and stitch one length to the centre of the front cover on the left-hand side and the other piece to the back cover on the right-hand side edge. Pin the front and inside-front cover together with right sides facing and stitch around the edges leaving a 6in opening at the top. Trim the corners and turn it the right way out. Cut a 10in x 13in piece of Pellon and baste it to the back of the back cover then stitch the covers together in the same way as the front.

For lazy daisy stitch diagram, please refer to page 74. Top edge

For running stitch diagram, please refer to page 8.

4in Pocket A

For stem stitch diagram, please refer to page 50.

Fold

For satin stitch diagram, please refer to page 134. For straight stitch diagram, please refer to page 108.

Top edge

Pocket C Fold

31/2in

Fold

Pocket B

Diagram 1. Position of pockets on the inside front cover

Pocket D

Diagram 2. Pocket placement for inside back cover

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Cut two 9in x 12in pieces of template plastic and trim the corners. Roll up the plastic and put it inside the covers then slip-stitch the openings closed. Mark four evenly spaced holes 1 /2in from the edge on the left-hand side of the front cover and on the right-hand side of the back cover, then make the holes through all layers with the sharp scissors or a scrapbooking eyelet punch.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions insert the eyelets into each hole. Put the covers together and thread the rings through the holes. Cut one long edge on each of the white felt squares with the pinking shears. Running-stitch in the bottom right-hand corner of one square with two strands of very dark shell pink (221) as shown in the photograph, then attach

a lace flower to both ends of the stitching. On the other piece of white felt stitch three lace flowers in the bottom right-hand corner. Mark four holes on the other long edge of each felt square to line up with the hinged rings then cut the holes as before. Put the felt inside the cover along with some plastic sleeves. Tie the organdie ribbon into a bow to secure the covers. â—?

Enlarge by 200%

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Almost two decades ago textile artist Lynda Worthington started to sell her handmade children’s clothing under the business name Lynda Anne. Soon she realised it would be too hard to compete with cheap imports, so she branched out into silk painting, machine-embroidery – both free-motion and digitised designs – and designing original garments and fabric accessories. Lynda recently started experimenting with printing her own photos onto fabric, which she then uses in her projects as well. Due to the inconveniences and overheads associated with a bricks and mortar store, Lynda responded to her friends’ requests to buy her work by establishing an online presence. Along with her main website, she also writes a regular blog and showcases her products and original artworks via Etsy, MadeIt, eBay and Facebook.

products on sites they are comfortable with. Her website highlights the distinctly Australian feel of the products, which are a mixture of ready-made artworks and art and craft supplies. The straightforward, user-friendly site allows budding textile artists to view finished creations alongside raw materials, offering insight into what they can achieve. Exclusive fabric panels, printed with Lynda’s own photographs of Australian wildlife, come with a printed seam allowance, making them extremely easy to stitch into the centre of a wallhanging or table runner. Lynda also offers the service of printing customers’ photos onto fabric panels, for those who want an extra personalised touch to their projects.

As well as fabrics, Lynda Anne stocks a range of patterns for bags and fabric Through extensive forays into just about bowls, beads, fibres and other supplies every craft – including drawing, painting, for use in textile art. Occasionally, there knitting, crochet, machine-needleare also kits available; it’s just a matter felting, pattern design, shibori and of regularly checking to see what’s new. fabric manipulation – Lynda developed Many products are posted for free within her favourite methods of design and Australia and the lack of a middleman production, which she employs in – all products come direct from the combination across her unique textile art. designer to the customer – means prices are kept as low as possible. Lynda’s use of several online stores makes it easy for customers to view her

Email: lynda.a@bigpond.net.au Blog: lyndaanne.wordpress.com

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6/12/13 3:38 18/09/13 3:26PM PM


There’s no need for guessing when it comes to the adorable Guess How Much I Love You fabric range by Leutenegger. Designed exclusively for Australia and New Zealand, with Anita Jerams’ irresistible illustrations bouncing across the fabric - we’re already sure you’ll love it!

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1in Do not scale to fit when printing

Flower Delight © Louise Audent Embroidery design outline

PAT TERN SHEE T copyright express publications pty ltd.

2014

for prIvate use only

Appliqué pattern for fence posts A taste of Patchwork_PS.indd 1

12/12/13 4:06 PM


PAT TERN SHEE T copyright express publications pty ltd.

2014

for prIvate use only

Bag pocket Cut 1 from interfacing on the fold Increase by 200%

Bag flap Cut 1 from interfacing on the fold Actual Size

Cut 8 hearts (full size)

Do not scale to fit when printing

fold

Cut 4 flowers (full size)

1in

Wuthering Heights collection Š Leeanne Pitman

Bag front and back Cut 1 from interfacing on the fold Increase by 200%

Top

Fold

Templates

Fold Top A taste of Patchwork_PS.indd 2

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Wuthering Heights collection © Leeanne Pitman

PAT TERN SHEE T copyright express publications pty ltd.

2014

for prIvate use only

Templates

Appliqué design for the outer pockets and the bag flap Cut 3 of each shape

Appliqué design for the front of the sewing folder Cut 1 of each shape Broken lines indicate overlapped edges

Cut 1 from interfacing

Curved template for the corners of the sewing folder

1in Do not scale to fit when printing

Straight edge A taste of Patchwork_PS.indd 3

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PAT TERN SHEE T copyright express publications pty ltd.

2014

Hoot Hoot

for prIvate use only

1in

Stripey owl feathers Cut 1

Cut 1

Do not scale to fit when printing

Pastel owl feathers

Cut 1

Coun tr y feath owl er s

Š Annalisse Wakenshaw

Tail Cut 3

Beak Cut 1

Body Cut 2

Feet Cut 2 pairs

Backstitch lines Eye Cut 2

Button Pastel owl ears Stripey owl and country owl ears

Cut 2 pairs

Cut 2 pairs

A taste of Patchwork_PS.indd 4

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½in

Sally Š Rhonda Thornley

Templates

copyright express publications pty ltd.

2014

for prIvate use only

Template outlines Embroidery design Enlarge by 200% Leave open

Head and body

PAT TERN SHEE T

Do not scale to fit when printing

Arm

Waist

Leave open

Leg

Trace 1 on folded fabric

Fold

Bloomers

Stuffing line

Cut 2 on the fold Stuffing line

Trace 2 on folded fabric

Trace 2 on folded fabric

Leave open

Bib Cut 2 Neck

Leave open

Cut Small heart

Blouse Cut 2 on the fold

Fold

Cut Large heart Cut 2

A taste of Patchwork_PS.indd 5

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A Taste of Patchwork  
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