SalonEVO North America Issue 3 (August/September 2020) by Evo Enterprises Ltd

STARRING BY TED GIBSON SYDNEY LOPEZ GRACE JOO AMMON CARVER

Alfredo Lewis

| A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 0 // I S S U E T H R E E

JUSTIN ANDERSON

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THE FINAL CUT.

ALFREDO LEWIS, DANIELLE KEASLING LIGHT COLLECTION

Hair Stylists// Danielle Keasling, Alfredo Lewis. Make-up Artist// Samson Smith. Stylist// Gina Rebolledo. Products// Matrix, Bellami. Photography// Zoe Christou Welsh.

THE FINAL CUT.

CHRYSTOFER BENSON BLAZED COLLECTION

Hair Stylist// Chrystofer Benson. Make-up Artist// Danielle Donahue. Stylist// Hannah Leigh. Photography// John Rawson. Images// FPA.

THE FINAL CUT.

NINA MUKHAR POP OF SUMMER COLLECTION

THE FINAL CUT.

Hair Stylist// Nina Mukhar. Make-up Artist// Brandy Allen. Creative Director// Monica Gargile. Model// Anna Tembo. Photography// Michael Higgins.

THE FINAL CUT.

AMMON CARVER MASTERS COLLECTION

Hair Stylist// Ammon Carver. Make-up Artist// Deney Adam. Wardrobe// Jennifer Daniels. Photography// Richard Monsieurs.

THE FINAL CUT.

Hair Stylist// Christopher Aaron Smith. Make-up Artist// Pascale Oeyen. Photography// Richard Monsieurs.

THE FINAL CUT.

CHRISTOPHER AARON SMITH BEAUTY IN COLOR COLLECTION

03 COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR David Foster// david@salon-evo.com ****

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF/ ART DIRECTOR Andrew Brewster// andrew@salon-evo.com

****

EDITOR Amy Glasgow// amy@salon-evo.com ****

SALES EXECUTIVES Mairi Cotter// mairi@salon-evo.com Emma Gray// emma@salon-evo.com Karen Hodgson// karen@salon-evo.com ****

ACCOUNTS MANAGER Elspeth Foster// elspeth@salon-evo.com ****

COVER IMAGE Danielle Keasling & Alfredo Lewis// Photography / Zoe Christou Welsh.

STAY CONNECTED SalonEvoMag

A N D R E W B R E W S T E R & D A V I D F O S T E R // C O - F O U N D E R S IT HAS BEEN A DIFFICULT FEW MONTHS FOR THE HAIR AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY, THE PANDEMIC HAS AFFECTED US ALL IN DIFFERENT WAYS, BUT HAIR STYLISTS AND BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS ARE NOTHING IF NOT RESILIENT, AND WE KNOW THEY WILL COME BACK STRONGER THAN EVER. We both can’t wait to see what the latter half of this year brings and have been so inspired watching so many of you rise to this challenge. Seeing salons across North America finally reopen their doors over the past few weeks and months has been welcomed with open arms, and something that the hair and beauty community has been waiting on for what feels like forever. It made it all the more difficult too when it was announced that 30 counties in California were closing their salons once again in July, but we know there is light at the end of the tunnel. We hope that you have stayed safe and in good health during these troubled times, and that you’re now enjoying being back behind the chair and bringing joy to your clients once more. Here at SalonEVO, despite being new to this incredibly creative industry, we made the decision early on, as difficult as it was, to postpone the June edition, and hold out until stylists were back doing what they love. Therefore, the August ‘comeback’

WWW.SALON-EVO.COM COPYRIGHT All work in this publication is copyright SalonEVO Magazine and Evo Enterprises Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.

Evo Enterprises Ltd, Suite 1.7, 1 Redwood Crescent, East Kilbride, G74 5PA, United Kingdom

edition is here! We are thrilled to be back creating this new publication for you, and we hope that we can continue to represent, inspire, educate and support you as we grow. If there is one thing that we can say for sure, it is that the industry has truly risen to this unique challenge. The support and camaraderie we have seen among stylists during this experience has been second to none. We’ve loved the education, the conversations, the insight and the mutual appreciation that has been ever-present throughout this experience. We hope that in the coming months and in the next year, we will be able to meet and engage with you first-hand as our much-missed trade shows and events begin to make a comeback. As we navigate through this new normal, we will continue to do all we can to support the hair and beauty industry, and we hope that you all continue to be safe, and doing what you do best.

42 AMY GLASGOW | EDITOR IT IS HARD TO BELIEVE THAT IT WAS JUST SIX MONTHS AGO I WAS WRITING MY FIRST WELCOME FOR THE DEBUT ISSUE OF SALONEVO. SO MUCH HAS CHANGED IN THAT TIME, WHILE THERE IS STILL CHALLENGES AHEAD, I BELIVE THE BEST IS YET TO COME FOR THIS INDUSTRY. In order to provide you with the most up to date information and the most relevant stories and features, our comeback issue is all about hitting the ground running and making up for lost time. For starters, we have pulled back-to-work and sanitation advice from Barbicide’s Director of Education, Leslie Roste and the Professional Beauty Association, plus a range of stylists and colorists share their thoughts and advice on how to fix those pesky DIY home haircuts, dye jobs and neglected nails. We’re also thrilled to bring you an exclusive interview with Schedulicity ambassador and VP Head of Education for Matrix, Alfredo Lewis, as he shares his love of color, education, and his remarkable rise to social media stardom. Elsewhere, we delve into the creative world of color, with insights from Dallan Flint, Sydney Lopez, Grace Joo, and the team behind innovative salon, STARRING by Ted Gibson, and we talk to Jamie DiGrazia about her new role with WAHL Professional.

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Of course, it wouldn’t be a comeback issue without talking about the most common source of income outside of the chair: retail. In our special feature, Justin Anderson tells us how he went from hair colorist to retail master, and the Penzone Salons + Spas team explain how and why retail is so important to their ethos. While protecting ourselves and our clients is of the utmost importance, it is just as important to look after our wellbeing, in both body and mind, so we have put together advice on how to take care of both you and your clients’ mental and physical wellbeing too. It feels great to be back, bringing you this exciting and thought-provoking new edition of SalonEVO. We hope you enjoy this issue, but most importantly, continue to stay safe and know that brighter days are coming.

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ANGELO SEMINARA ANNOUNCED AS GOLDWELL AMBASSADOR

REVISED DATES ANNOUNCED FOR ISSE The Professional Beauty Association has announced its revised dates for International Salon + Spa Expo (ISSE) and the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) 2021. Traditionally held in January, ISSE will now be held March 13-15th at the Long Beach Convention Center in Long Beach, California, with NAHA taking place on March 13th. Nina Daily, chief marketing officer of the PBA, said: “The PBA is dedicated to providing the best ISSE & NAHA experience to reconnect with the professional

beauty community, celebrate artistry, and get back to business, but also ensuring that safety is the top priority. Our organization is dedicated to ensuring that these events follow the latest recommendations of public health experts and standards set by the federal, state and local governments to make it a safe and engaging experience for all.” Find out more about what to expect at ISSE 2021 at probeauty.org

SCHEDULICITY OFFERS GRANTS TO CALIFORNIA BUSINESSES Schedulicity’s small business grant program, #SchedulicityCares, has turned its focus towards the state of California, offering ten $1,000 grants to help businesses hit hardest by the COVID-19 pandemic. Effective immediately, preferences will be given to businesses in California, which were forced to endure a second round of closures, with the mandatory re-closure of barbershops, hair salons, nail salons and personal care businesses ordered by Governor Gavin Newsom on 13th July. Barbershops and hair salons have since been allowed to open outdoors with new guidance. Schedulicity CEO and founder Jerry Nuttuno

announced the update on the company’s social media pages and spoke about the first grant which was awarded to Los Angeles salon HairBeat. Owned by Melanie Charlton, the salon offers braids and weaves for all textures of hair. Businesses can apply for one of the $1,000 grants online by nominating themselves or a fellow business in California that they know is struggling. Schedulicity will also consider applications from outside of California if the business has a clear and immediate need for support. Find out more about #SchedulicityCares and keep up to date with their latest news by following them on Instagram, @schedulicity.

International award-winning stylist Angelo Seminara has been announced as Goldwell’s new Global Ambassador. Angelo will create limited-edition collections and inspire stylists and colorists worldwide using Goldwell products and services. Known for his avante-garde style and incredible, inspiring career, we have no doubt Angelo will thrive in this new role. “As a company, Goldwell has always been at the forefront of innovation and supporting the professional community with groundbreaking tools that foster creativity and progress. I couldn’t be more excited and inspired to innovate alongside their team.” John Moroney, Creative Director for the Kao Salon Division, said: “Angelo’s unprecedented creative vision and dedication to pushing the boundaries of his craft will allow Goldwell to take our commitment to delivering the most revolutionary products and services to animate the imagination of every stylist to the next level.” SalonEVO was thrilled to bring our readers an exclusive interview with Angelo inside our second issue. We look forward to hearing more about this exciting new partnership in the coming months.

BOOKSY LAUNCHES MOBILE SERVICES FEATURE To support new and existing customers and allow them to expand their business, Booksy has created a new Mobile Services feature, allowing barbers, stylists and other beauty professionals to bring their services to their clients’ homes. Businesses can set their own fully customizable travel area and gives you the power to set up fees, pricing, and location-related accommodations for travel requests. Through Mobile Services, you will have the power to confirm every appointment to make sure it is within your reach.

The new feature comes as, although barbers and salons have been open for weeks and months in some areas, many clients may still be reluctant to step out for a haircut or trim in a bid to avoid crowded spaces. Mobile Services allows you to provide your clients with the same high-quality service from the comfort of their own home, allowing them to feel safe and secure while providing you with an additional income stream. To find out more about Mobile Services, visit www.booksy.com

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STEPPING UP TO HELP BARBERS AS SHOPS ACROSS THE UNITED STATES HAVE BEGUN TO REOPEN, WE KNOW YOU’LL HAVE MORE TO THINK ABOUT THAN EVER BEFORE – INCLUDING HOW TO KEEP YOUR CLIENTS, YOUR STAFF AND YOURSELVES SAFE. Personal protective equipment (PPE) can be a major investment and Gillette wants to do its part for the barber community by providing equipment that can help better protect those of you back at work, along with your valued clients. To help keep the barber community safe as shops are reopening, Gillette is stepping up to play its part by donating 20,000 protective face shields to barbers across the country.

This is part of a larger relief effort to support workers, relief agencies and communities on the front lines of this pandemic. To date, Gillette has produced and donated more than 300,000 face shields for health care workers in response to the needs during the COVID-19 pandemic. There are limited numbers of face shields remaining! Get yours before they are gone at barberevo.com/faceshieldsforbarbers.

“SHOUTOUT TO @GILLETTE FOR SPONSORING OUR SWEET NEW FACE SHIELDS! SHAVES AND FACIALS HAVE NEVER BEEN SAFER!” PRODIGY SALON// @prodigysalon

“#SALUTE TO BARBEREVO & GILLETTE FOR DONATING THESE FACE SHIELDS TO BARBERS!” SIPP THE SURGEON// The Art of Barbering, Grand Prairie, Texas.

“The face shields help me out so much by protecting my clients and I from spreading anything around. Knowing I’m protected allows me to be at peace when cutting, I’m not so worried about the virus and I can focus on the haircut and taking care of my clients.”

“We love the new Gillette face shields! They’re super light and comfortable. Not only are they providing important extra protection for all the barbers, but our clients also appreciate them because it shows we’re taking their safety seriously as well.”

JOSUE MORALES//

ERIK ZAIATZ//

Sway Styles, Detroit, Michigan.

Bostonian Barbershop, Boston,Massachusetts.

Send us your selfies// Let us know you got your face shields! Tag @gillette & @barberevo. The best selfies will be featured in an upcoming edition of BarberEVO.

THE GILLETTE FACE SHIELDS ARE GREAT… OUR CLIENTS LOVE THEM AND IT GIVES THEM PEACE OF MIND TO COME IN THE SHOP TO GET A HAIRCUT – THANK YOU!” MARCUS WILLIAMS// Marc Republic, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.

KURTIS “THE STACHE” LAWRENCE All of us here at SalonEVO were deeply saddened to hear of the passing of Kurtis “The Stache” Lawrence on July 17. As Education Coordinator, he was an integral part of the Reuzel family and widely respected within the global barbering community.

NAHA 2021 ENTRIES OPEN To support the beauty community and keep the artistry and creativity flowing, the Professional Beauty Association has opened entries for the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) for 2021. The awards provide stylists the chance to channel their energies into a creative outlet and show the industry what they are capable of. The most prestigious professional beauty competition in North America honors the salon industry’s top artists, who push the boundaries of skill and creativity. For 2021, there are two new categories – Inspiring Salon of the Year and Educator of the Year, and sadly

the Nail, Newcomer and Salon Design categories have been eliminated. NAHA entry collections can be published prior to entry and can be submitted to other regional, national or international competitions. NAHA entries opened June 11, 2020 and the period of entry has been extended to November 18, 2020 to allow stylists time to create their winning collections post-COVID-19. For more information on how to enter, visit https://probeauty.org/events-programs/naha

WELLA HOST VIRTUAL FUNDRAISER On July 12, Wella Education presented the Fractured Not Broken Virtual Fundraiser LIVE on Facebook, filled with amazing artistry and education, all to benefit the PBA COVID-19 Relief Fund and The Loveland Foundation, with Wella donating an incredible $300,000 get the donations started. Thirteen amazing stylists and artists went live on the Wella Education Facebook page to show

incredible techniques and skills, while accepting donations from viewers and supporters. By the time the threehour event was complete, over $10,000 had been raised. All donations will be split evenly between the PBA COVID-19 Relief Fund and the Loveland Foundation. You can still contribute to the fundraiser – head over to the Wella Education Facebook page to find out how to donate.

GREEN CIRCLE LAUNCHES PPE RECOVERY PROGRAM With so many salons forced to invest in mass amounts of PPE, such as gloves, gowns and masks, in light of the COVID-19 pandemic, the potential waste increase could be massive. However, Green Circle Salons, who provide recycling solutions for salon waste, have recently launched a PPE Recovery Initiative, designed to help salon owners reduce the environmental impact of the new sanitary requirements that have been put in place.

Through the program, salons will be able to safely and easily dispose of masks, face shields, gloves, disposable capes and gowns, disinfectant wipes and paper towels. All materials will be processed and used to create clean, renewable energy that powers homes and businesses, while the leftover ash from this process can be used as filler in asphalt and various construction items such as brick.

Reuzel co-founder Laurence Hegarty said in a touching post: “While Kurtis had other roles prior to Reuzel, working for Pivot Point and Tigi, he often said that Reuzel was where he was meant to be. Reuzel was his home, and we were his family. Kurtis, while not the tallest in the room, was a giant among men. He had a kind heart, always had a smile, was always the social butterfly, and would go out of his way to help you in any way he could.” Kurtis touched many lives during his career, and the outpouring of love from the barber community since the announcement of his passing is a testament to the kind of man he was. “When I heard the news yesterday, I was devastated. Kurt was truly one of the most kind, thoughtful, inspiring humans I’ve met. I’m so grateful to have had the opportunity to have him touch my life and know that everyone who knew him felt the same,” said Whitney VerMeer. Matty Conrad also shared a tribute to Kurtis, saying: “We lost a legend this week. For the last few years, I have spent more time on the road than I have at home. In that time, I have developed a bit of a ‘road family’, you need to, to keep sane. Kurtis was a brother. He was one of the most loyal friends I’ve met. He was never swayed by fickle opinions or popularity. He was as solid a friend as you could ever wish for.” Our deepest sympathies go out to Kurtis’ family, friends and treasured colleagues. Rest in peace, Kurtis.

A Cut

GOLDWELL ELUMEN COLOR Available in 32 shades, the Elumen collection repairs the hair while coloring and is made without peroxide or ammonia.

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ULTA BEAUTY MINERAL BLUSH A luxurious powder that is luminous on cheeks and gives smooth coverage. The enriched formula is infused with VITAMIN E to nourish the skin, providing long-lasting day to night coverage without creasing, smearing or smudging.

BOSLEY PRO ULTRABOOST STYLING CRÈME A weightless styling crème rich in nutrients and antioxidants that conditions while creating texture, volume and a semimatte finish. Gingko Biloba Kernel Oil, rich in antioxidants, protects and conditions, while Argan oil helps to smooth.

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MATRIX KEEP ME VIVID SULFATE-FREE SHAMPOO

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Perfect for combating hair color fading, this sulfate-free shampoo gently cleanses hair while maintaining the vibrancy of fast-fading colors. Using the Matrix Keep Me Vivid system, hair color can last for up to 21 washes and benefit from increased shine.

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OPI NAIL LACQUER The original formula that you know and love, with more durability than traditional nail polish. Available in a range of colors, this lacquer is chip resistant and does not need to be cured in a lamp to dry.

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JOICO DEFY DAMAGE PROSERIES1 This bond-protecting color optimizer spray instantly helps shield hair from chemical service damage, improves color deposit and provides greater, more even lift when lightening. Just spray and go – no messy, complicated mixing or measuring.

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AMERICAN CREW SHAVE CREAM The lather helps keep the beard hair lifted for a close shave, while protecting the skin from irritation and razor burn, leaving skin feeling smooth and hydrated.

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AKZENTZ PROFESSIONAL UV/LED GEL PLAY Designed specifically for nail art, bring out your creative spirit with this range of highly pigmented colors and glitters. With six unique varieties, including paints, glitters and glitter shifters, the possibilities are endless.

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WAHL 1919 MATTE CONTROL CRÈME This is for the control freak. For the man who wants every strand of hair placed just so. The 1919 Matte Control Creme softens and smooths, while its lighthold formula provides an all-natural look you can re-style throughout the day.

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MALIBU C SCALP WELLNESS SHAMPOO This gentle, 100% vegan scalp shampoo is free of harsh chemicals and sulfates, soothing the scalp to help relieve common problems such as flaking, itching, and irritation, leaving the hair full of body and shine.

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ALFAPARF MILANO MORPHING COLOR This range of temporary and dynamic colors change instantly when exposed to different temperatures and are super easy to apply – no processing time needed!

MOROCCANOIL DRY SCALP TREATMENT Address the needs of dry and flaky scalps with this treatment, instantly relieving irritation, dryness and itchiness.

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Working to restore scalp imbalances, it revitalizes the hair and is infused with antioxidant-rich argan oil to sooth the skin.

This cream-based leave-in formula defines and fixates curls and blocks humidity, perfect for creating long-lasting curly hairstyles, free of fly-aways and frizz. Simply apply the product evenly to wet hair, then style as desired or blow dry with a diffuser.

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PRAVANA PURE LIGHT BALAYAGE ACTIVATOR

Formulated to do seven jobs in one, this cleaning fluid cools, cleans, disinfects, lubricates, prevents rust and deodorises clipper blades, and is formulated with vitamin E to help your blade glide over your clients’ skin, conditioning it as you clip.

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New to the L’ANZA ColorCare collection, this restorative conditioner encourages rapid recovery to extremely damaged hair. The new Ceramide Technology evens out porosity and rinses clean without residue.

This activator is specifically formulated to maximize the performance of PURE LIGHT Balayage Lightener to create the perfect consistency.

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L’ANZA HEALING COLORCARE TRAUMA TREATMENT

MASKS MUST BE WORN BY EMPLOYEES AND CLIENTS. CONSIDER INVESTING IN REUSABLE CLOTH MASKS OR FACE SHIELDS TO REDUCE WASTE.

FINDING YOUR FEET DURING THIS CRITICAL TIME, IT IS IMPORTANT TO CONTINUE TO PAY ADDITIONAL ATTENTION TO THE HEALTH AND SAFETY OF OTHERS. To help salons and beauty professionals, the Professional Beauty Association has created back to work guidelines to help both staff and clients feel safe in the salon. In July, it was announced that salons and barbershops in 30 counties in California would be closing again, along with bars and restaurants. The announcement was a shocking reminder of how important our health and safety is, and how easily

lockdown measures can be reintroduced. While the majority of salons remain open, the Back to Work plan from the Professional Beauty Association should be considered a resource, helping salons stay safe and ensuring the health and wellness of their staff and clientele. Here, we have broken down the key messages of the Back to Work plan for you...

IF YOU ARE USING GLOVES, MAKE SURE YOU CHANGE AND DISPOSE OF THEM AFTER EACH CLIENT, WASHING HANDS WITH SOAP AND WATER BEFORE PUTTING ON A NEW SET. RECEPTION AREA

CLIENT ENGAGEMENT AND EXPECTATION Good communication with clients is key to ensuring they not only understand the new rules and regulations, but also to manage their expectations of what this new salon experience will be. Here are some things you should advice your client.

u Come to appointments alone, do not bring friends, pets, or children

u Consider asking them to wash their hair before their appointment to help reduce traffic at shampoo bowls

u Consider eliminating blow drying to help reduce appointment times

u Ask clients to sign a waiver prior to the service acknowledging the potential risk of exposure

u Let clients know they will be asked to wear a mask, and let them know if you can provide one if they do not have their own

u Ask clients to wait in their cars until you are ready to begin the service

u Confirm before the appointment that clients are well and not showing any symptoms

u Consider going contactless with payments

u Appointments could be staggered, with possibly reduced staff to allow social distancing

Back-to-Work Guidelines

LAUNDRY

SHAMPOO & PEDICURE BOWLS

All bowls should be cleaned and disinfected If you are opting not to use disposable capes and Your reception or waiting area should be kept as before opening and throughout the day once towels, ensure that any in use are washed daily clean and clear as possible, so remove any nonopened. Scrub the bowl with soap and water, and, once clean and dried, stored in a covered essential items to prevent cross-contamination. rinse completely, then disinfect the bowl cabinet. Each client should receive a fresh, clean Be sure to wipe down all soft surfaces with by filling it with and disinfectant and During this critical time, it’s important to pay additional attention towater the health and safety cape and any treatment rooms should also have water and a clean towel, and disinfect all hard, it soak forwith 10 minutes. sure to clean of others. This was developed inletting partnership LeslieBeRoste, RN, fresh Back-to-Work linens and drapingguidance for each client. non-porous surfaces including furniture, phones, other components the faucet. BSN and leading industry infection control specialist. It is designed to including help make everyone computers and door handles. Consider leaving your more comfortable and safe once and spaallenvironments. For nail salons, pedicure bowls and parts, DISINFECTANTS AND PPEservices resume in the salon front entrance open to prevent clients touching including faucets, need to be fully cleaned If you are using gloves, make sure you change and The date you may return to work is determined by your local state authorities and must be door handles, and ensure there is hand sanitizer and disinfected before each client. Consider dispose of them after each client, washing safety hands rules that followed. All states have health and public must be followed at all times. available at reception. adding an acrylic shield to pedicure bowls. soap state and water before putting a new set. Be sure towith review regulations to on ensure all proper protocols are being implemented. Shampoo and pedicure stations should be Masks must be worn by employees and clients HAND HYGIENE 6ft apart or staggered to ensure proper social consider investing in reusable cloth masks or face distancing. Keeping your hands and your client’s hands clean Engagement and Expectations Client shields to reduce waste. is extremely important. Wash hands with soap and we start to understand water for 30 seconds before and after eachAs client, WORK STATIONS what the new will look like, there are several things when using the restroom, and after eatingnormal or Work stations should be disinfected in-between we can communicate with clients to set proper smoking. Hand sanitizer should be used between clients, so make sure you have left enough time expectations prior to their appointments: hand washes and make sure clients have access to between appointments to ensure that station hand sanitizer. - They counters, should plan comestyling alone. Please chairs,to mirrors, tools and don’t

RESTROOMS

bringproducts friends,can pets, all bechildren, disinfectedetc. before starting

your next service. - Consider asking them to wash their hair before Bathrooms should be cleaned and disinfected twicetheir appointment For nail salons, all a nail station toitems helponreduce traffic at the a day. Additional considerations include adding shampoo bowls must either be new, never used or cleaned and hand sanitizer, upgrading to touchless faucets and disinfected (stored in blow a closeddrying container - Consider eliminating tountil helpready dispensers, and making sure trash cans are available to use). All hand/foot times. nail drying tables should be reduce appointment for clients to easily dispose of paper towels. cleaned and disinfected after each client.

- Ask clients to sign a waiver prior to the service acknowledging the potential risks of exposure

- Let clients know they will be asked to wear a For further advice and additional resources, visit probeauty.org/coronavirus.

mask that secures behind their ears during the service. One will be provided with an additional service charge to cover expenses if they don’t have one

- Ask that clients wait in their 33 cars until you contact them when you’re ready to begin

BARBICIDE BACK TO WORK PLAN u Check you have enough Barbicide and Clippercide for your shop u Discard non-essential items from waiting areas

BACK TO WORK WITH BARBICIDE

Wipe down all surfaces thoroughly with disinfectant, including cash register, work stations, door handles, reception counter, keyboards, phones, toilets etc.

u Place signage in windows to notify clients of your safety procedures u Clean and disinfect all electrical and hand tools u Consider staggering appointments to allow time to disinfect between customers u Think about implementing an appointment system u Consider investing in a contactless payment method u Think about wearing a mask and ask clients to wear a mask u Decline services for any clients that exhibits signs of illness u Ensure all staff observe proper hand hygiene

OUR GOAL IS TO PROVIDE THE HAIR AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY WITH AS MUCH HELP AND SUPPORT AS WE POSSIBLY CAN. WE’VE EVEN CREATED A BACK TO WORK PLAN FOR ANYONE WHO IS NOT SURE WHERE TO START OR WHAT THEY MIGHT NEED.” IT WOULD BE FAIR TO SAY THAT IN THE PAST FEW MONTHS, BARBICIDE HAS BEEN THE HOLY GRAIL FOR STYLISTS. CONSIDERED THE MOST WELL-KNOWN DISINFECTANT FOR HAIR PROFESSIONALS, THE BLUE LIQUID HAS BEEN IN HIGH DEMAND. BUT WHAT ELSE HAVE THE BARBICIDE TEAM BEING DOING TO SUPPORT THE INDUSTRY? For starters, they created a brand-new free certification course focused entirely on COVID-19, as Barbicide has been approved for efficacy against Human Coronavirus, including COVID-19. The programme is designed to present the most current information that is pertinent to barbers and hair and beauty professionals. This information changes daily, but the guidelines for the industry are likely to remain consistent, at least in the short term, but be sure to check with your local government around specific guidelines. The certification has been hugely popular across the industry, with well over 200,000 hair, barber and beauty professionals proudly displaying their certificate on social media. Not only does it provide barbers with peace of mind, it shows your clients that you care and are keen to follow the correct procedures when they return to the barbershop. While a number of these practices, such as tool disinfecting and hand hygiene, should already be in place, the certification aims to guide you through the extra steps to prevent the spread of the virus. “The most encouraging thing for me is seeing the number of barbers, stylists and beauty

professionals that are so ready to take these new challenges head on. From taking the time to get our certification online to simply engaging in conversations about best practices moving forward,” says Leslie Roste, Director of Education at Barbicide. “Our goal is to provide the hair and beauty industry with as much help and support as we possibly can. We’ve even created a Back-to-Work plan for anyone who is not sure where to start or what they might need. It’s all about helping this creative industry get back on its feet.” The Barbicide Back-to-Work plan is designed to give barbershop and salon owners a plan of action, providing a safe and secure way to reopen in a post-pandemic world. Given the renewed focus on the health and public safety of hair professionals and their clients, the Back-to-Work plan should be used to make everyone more comfortable when services resume. This plan incorporates best practices according to infection control, from how to use the different types of Barbicide correctly, Clippercide use, how to carefully and thoroughly clean and disinfect the different areas of the shop or salon, removing any non-essential items, setting up a contactless

payment method and, most importantly, retraining staff on essential infection control and hand hygiene practices. In a further effort to support the industry, Barbicide offer a range of webinars focusing on a range of topics from best practices and even protecting your mental health when returning to work. These webinars are designed not to tell the industry how to do its job, but simply to be good partners, providing weekly interviews with professionals from all areas including barbering, school and business owners, and state regulators and inspectors. “We’re always looking for new and different ways that we can lend a hand to the industry,” says Barbicide President, Alan Murphy. “We love the passion that the hair industry has for its craft, and its our job not only to provide a product that helps them, but to support them and become a source of advice and information. We’ve been making some big strides recently, really trying to focus on the mental wellbeing of barbers, not just health and safety, and we really just want to help, in some small way.” For more information on the Back-to- Work plan or to get Barbicide certified, visit barbicide.com

BEST PRACTICE FOR MAKEUP ARTISTS WITH ONE OF THE BIGGEST ISSUES FOR MAKEUP ARTISTS DURING AND AFTER QUARANTINE HAS BEEN THE LACK OF CLEAR GUIDELINES AND BEST PRACTICES. Cosmetologist Kristin Kaide teamed up with Barbicide to provide makeup artists and other stylists with a clear, concise guide. “I got really frustrated reading a lot of misinformation online about what makeup artists should be doing, especially as there was no official guidance for us. Clients are going to be so much more aware now of how we react and what practices we’re putting into place, so I thought it was important to create something universal, and most importantly accurate information, with Barbicide,” said Kristin. Any makeup artist knows that your hands are your most important tool, and throughout a service you will most likely be touching the most infectious areas, namely around the eyes, nose and mouth. You will also be using your hands to touch your makeup, but as it is almost impossible to disinfect makeup, Kristin instead suggests trying to ensure it does not become contaminated in the first place. Makeup is porous, so it cannot be disinfected, but that doesn’t mean you can’t keep your kit clean and safe, by avoiding cross-contamination

and removing anything that is porous or hard to clean, such as brush canisters, and repackage any creased and overly used makeup or products into easy-to-clean tubes or packaging. Your makeup travel bag, as useful as it might be, is also a contamination risk and difficult to disinfect, so Kristin instead suggests using a plastic tub which can be easily wiped down with Barbicide, and switch to disposable applicators and brushes so you don’t have to re-use any on more than one client. “The most important thing I can suggest is to educate yourself, break down your routine, figure out where cross-contamination is possible so that you can adjust it and remove those risks,” says Kristin. Since teaming up with Barbicide, Kristin felt it was important to keep these conversations going, and that the pandemic has exposed a lot of issues in the beauty industry. In the coming weeks, Kristin will be launching a new Safety Alliance for Beauty Professionals, which is designed to foster productive conversations, offer support and advice You can watch the full video on the Barbicide’s YouTube on safe practices and channel now and for more information on the Back infection control. to Work Plan or Certification, visit www.barbicide.com

Barbicide - No pretender Every client, every time 37

RETURNING TO WORK. Tracey Walker

FIT Director of Education at the Institute of Trichologists (London).

As I’m sitting here writing this, barbershops and salons are learning to navigate through this ‘new normal.’ What is paramount though is the safety and well-being of yourself, your staff and your customers. You will have heard nothing but coronavirus news for the past few months but let’s remind ourselves of some of the pertinent facts: • Most viruses are much smaller than bacteria • They can only multiply when they have entered a specific host cell • Viruses trick host cells into obeying DNA or RNA instructions • Host cells can produce hundreds of new viruses in just 20 minutes, which explains why flu can come over us so rapidly • Viruses can travel 6 feet (almost 2 metres) with regular breathing – further if yelling or coughing • 60% of those carrying the virus will show no symptoms • Viruses can live for up to 4 days on

The following definitions are important to understand:

• A viricide is a chemical that is capable of inactivating viruses, so that they lose the ability to replicate, and thus to infect.

We all know that we should be washing our hands for at least 20 seconds numerous times per day. This seems a sensible thing to do. But what if you have a tendency for atopic eczema or irritant contact dermatitis? Irritant contact dermatitis can occur with frequent exposure to a weak irritant. Common irritants include soaps and shampoos, antiseptics and anti-bacterials and perfumes or preservatives in cosmetics or toiletries. The dermatitis only affects the area of skin which is in contact with the irritant. The condition is worsened by not drying your hands thoroughly after washing. It can also be made worse by heat, cold, friction and low humidity. Your risk of developing irritant contact dermatitis is increased if you suffer from atopic eczema (the most common form of eczema).

• A bactericide is a chemical that is capable of killing bacterial cells, but will not necessarily kill all bacterial spores present, as they tend to be very hardy and resistant.

What you can do to minimise the chance of skin problems whilst adhering to good practice:

• Antiseptics slow pathogenic activity e.g. Savlon. • A disinfectant is any chemical used in the destruction, inactivation, or removal of microorganisms, reducing them to a level not harmful to health. • Sterilisation will render the equipment surface completely free from viable microorganisms including viruses and bacterial spores, thus creating sterile conditions.

• A fungicide is a chemical that is capable of killing both fungi and their spores.

Key points:

plastics and stainless steel

• Barbicide is effective as a disinfectant, a fungicide and as a viricide.

The points above prove the need for special

• All implements must be cleaned after a single use. Cleaning is important prior to disinfecting to remove any dirt or grease from the equipment.

measures to be put in place prior to re-opening. Many of you will be re-designing your premises in order to comply with new restrictions. We’ve discussed in previous issues the importance of cleaning and disinfecting/sterilising equipment. Never has there been the need to do this more than now.

• Choose a mild soap which is moisturizing – if you do suffer from irritant contact dermatitis you will probably know what products to avoid. I’ve found that the antibacterial liquid soaps can trigger a reaction in me within 24 hours. I then spend days trying to calm the irritation. It’s better to wash your hands thoroughly in a mild soap than avoid washing them with a product you know is going to irritate.

• When filling your Barbicide jar do use warm/ hot water as this will be more effective. Use the correct ratio of Barbicide to water – hospital strength would give you the confidence of efficacy – 59ml of Barbicide to 946ml of water. Prepare fresh solution each day (more often if the solution becomes diluted or soiled) and fully immerse the objects for 10 minutes.

• Dry hands thoroughly after washing especially around and under rings.

• If using Barbicide/antibacterial spray leave for 10 minutes • If using Clippercide leave for 10 minutes

• Try to avoid oils as they can be sensitizers, further irritating skin that is already sore and cracked.

• If using antibacterial wipes leave for 2 minutes.

• Use hand sanitizing gel for extra protection as long as it doesn’t aggravate the skin.

This shows the importance of allowing time between clients in order for all tools/surfaces to be fully disinfected. There will be many challenges facing us over the next few months. One of the challenges will include looking after you and your skin.

• If you are struggling to get on top of the dermatitis you may need to visit the GP for a corticosteroid. These can have a bad name when used long-term but at times are essential and can be the only topical ointment or cream which breaks the itch/scratch cycle.

• Apply a good hand lotion – preferably a hypoallergenic/perfume-free one. Lotions contain less oil so they more suitable when working whereas ointments tend to contain more oil so lend themselves to being applied in the evening or overnight (with the aid of cotton gloves).

GOING GREEN WHILE KEEPING CLEAN THERE IS A HUGE PREOCCUPATION WITH HYGIENE CURRENTLY AROUND THE WORLD AND RIGHTLY SO. BARBERSHOPS ARE AT THE FRONTLINE AND ARE UNDER PRESSURE TO ENSURE BOTH CLIENTS AND STAFF FEEL SAFE. NOW, EASYDRY HAS PROVIDED A SOLUTION, WITH THEIR RANGE OF DISPOSABLE GOWNS AND HYGIENIC TOWELS.

MANY STYLISTS ARE KEEN TO SHY AWAY FROM DISPOSABLE TOWELS AND GOWNS DUE TO THE INCREASE IN WASTE, BUT WITH EASYDRY, STYLISTS AND SHOP OWNERS CAN BREATHE EASY KNOWING THERE IS A BIODEGRADABLE SOLUTION."

For most stylists, PPE has been high on the list of priorities. Although the use of disposable gowns and towels is not set to be mandatory in all States, there will be some expectation from clients and staff. Providing disposable gowns shows your client that their safety is paramount, but what about all that extra waste? Easydry have the solution. Made from medical-grade fiber, the Easydry disposable towels are single-use and more hygienic than multi-user cotton towels and traditional laundry. This gives both you and your client peace of mind that you are offering the highest hygiene standards possible. Made using eco-friendly processes and without the use of chemicals, they remove the issue of sustainability when it comes to disposable products. Many stylists are keen to shy away from disposable towels and gowns due to the increase in waste, but with Easydry, stylists and salon owners can breathe easy knowing there is a biodegradable solution. To reassure your customers, with every Easydry purchase, you will get a specially created hygiene sticker to place in your shop window, showing that your shop uses disposable towels and can offer a clean, fresh towel, every client, every time.

In addition to their towels and in even higher demand in salons are Easydry’s new long, black, 100% compostable disposable gowns! Currently celebrating 15 years since the launch of its very first eco-friendly, hygienic towel, CEO and founder, Anne Butterly, has been listening to her customer needs during this time of crisis. “I always listen to the feedback and listening to salons over the past few difficult months, I clearly heard that salons need and want a gown that is both hygienic and eco-friendly,” she explains. So, to address these needs and as part of the anniversary celebrations, Easydry is launching their very own 100% compostable long black gown. Many stylists have been concerned about the use of disposable gowns and the extra waste they will create, but, as with their towels, these gowns are eco-friendly and just as effective. The full-length gown is ideal for all services, providing protection for the guest and the stylist, with a soft material that provides the client with both comfort and reassurance. After use, the gowns can be easily composted, so you can reduce your carbon footprint while simultaneously protecting your staff, yourself and your clients.

ANYONE WITH A PASSION FOR COLOR WILL TELL YOU HOW GREAT IT IS TO SEE THE JOY ON A CLIENTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FACE WHEN YOU TRANSFORM THEIR ENTIRE LOOK BY PAINTING THEIR HAIR. HERE, WE TALK TO THE SALONS, STYLISTS AND SOCIAL MEDIA STARS WHO CREATE MAGIC WITH COLOR, FROM BOLD, BRIGHT TONES TO BEAUTIFUL BALAYAGE...

Sydney Ann Lopez.

Grace Joo.

Dallan Flint.

Alfredo Lewis.

Starring by Ted Gibson.

KNOWN FOR HIS QUICK COLOR SKILLS AND ON-STAGE PRESENCE, ALFREDO LEWIS IS CONSIDERED A PIONEER IN HIS FIELD, UTILIZING SOCIAL MEDIA TO CREATE FUN, ENGAGING AND CREATIVE COLLABORATIONS AND CONTENT. AS A SCHEDULCITY AMBASSADOR, BELLAMI EDUCATOR AND VP HEAD OF EDUCATION FOR MATRIX, HE’S A FORCE TO BE RECKONED WITH.

I love using Bellami to create unique and versatile looks. Blending a beautiful wig or hair extensions with custom colors has resulted in some of my favorite collections.”

Alfredo Lewis began his hair journey 27 years ago in Los Angeles, working at a salon in Beverly Hills for 11 years and quickly developing the ability to perform color services in 30 minutes or less. As a color specialist, he worked on celebrities, clients from all walks of life and even completed training at the L’Oréal Academy in New York. When Alfredo moved salons 11 years later, the team were creating a product line for themselves that ended up being Brazilian Blowout. When they saw Alfredo’s infectious personality, they asked him if he had ever thought about becoming an educator. “At the time I just wasn’t interested, I was so busy with clients and it seemed like a lot to take on,” explains Alfredo. “I did go to a class to get certified in Brazilian Blowout though, and I was so moved by the educator. They were so passionate about the product, so I decided to take on a few classes and I just loved it.” His curriculum quickly went from one class a week to traveling all over the US to teach classes and represent brands at trade shows. “I think it awoke something in me. Sometimes we can get complacent; I’d spent 11 years doing the same thing, educating reinvigorated me and allowed me to give back to the industry that

I’d served for so long. It made me interested in the business side of the industry too, I wanted to run education programs and streamline the information that we were reeling out to stylists.” Before long, he was running education for Brazilian Blowout worldwide, even helping to research and develop the b3 Brazilian Bond Builder. At the same time, social media was becoming the new way for brands and individuals to make a name for themselves. “I didn’t understand social media at all, but I’d go to hair shows and see these stylists on stage who had built a huge following for themselves and I knew I had to give it a go and I started to grow really quickly through doing collaborations. That’s how I built myself into an influencer, I worked with the likes of Philip Wolff, who I still work with today, and A Rod, creating videos where I would do color and they would cut... and now I have over 500,000 followers, it’s crazy! I can’t wait to start doing collaborations again. I love using Bellami to create unique and versatile looks. Blending a beautiful wig or hair extensions with custom colors has resulted in some of my favorite collections.” u

Hair// Philip Wolff. Color// Alfredo Lewis. Fade// Arod.

Hair Stylists// Danielle Keasling, Alfredo Lewis. Make-up Artist// Samson Smith. Stylist// Gina Rebolledo. Products// Matrix, Bellami. Photography// Zoe Christou Welsh.

SCHEDULICITY really CARES

As his name grew in the industry, so too did the opportunities for development. Knowing that his passion above all else was color, he found his calling with Matrix, joining the team as an influencer and artist. When he wasn’t on stage, you would find Alfredo in the Matrix lab, developing balayage color and henna colors for balayage. Today, he is the VP Head of Education for Matrix, relocating from Los Angeles to New York to lead a team of worldwide educators. “My first official day in the office was in March, and I was only there for a week before we were all sent home due to COVID-19, so it has been a real whirlwind experience,” says Alfredo. “We are planning a huge rebrand in 2021 and I’m creating all of the education for this relaunch, working around the clock to make sure we represent diversity and do better as a brand in a real, genuine way. I can’t give too much away right now, but I’m just so passionate and excited about my job right now. The work the whole Matrix team have been doing behind the scenes is incredible. They are amazing people and I can’t wait for the world to see what we have created.” Despite his busy schedule with Matrix, Alfredo makes a point of spending time behind the chair on a regular basis. In his mind, anyone who is the head of education needs to still be doing hair or they can begin to lose touch with what is happening on the ground floor of the industry. Trying to balance his educational responsibilities with time behind the chair, not to mention national and international travel, is not easy, so Alfredo uses Schedulicity to manage his time. “I needed help scheduling because it was just so crazy. Then I met Jerry Nettuno and he is incredible. He explained the platform and I signed up right away. I loved the ease of use; they could take all my contacts and upload them all into the app so that I could start working from it immediately.” “Then I went down to Bozeman and met the people – I’m all about people. They call them the rock stars and they really are just such an incredible group of people. I love what they stand for and what they believe in, the grants they’ve given out to stylists doing good things for the community... everything about Schedulicity is so unique and the way that they are connecting with our industry is remarkable, so I didn’t even think twice when they asked me to be involved.”

The original plan was for Alfredo and the other Schedulicity artists to go on tour, sharing their passion for the platform, educating other stylists and raising awareness for the brand, but, of course, COVID-19 stopped all of those plans in their tracks, although it is still something that Alfredo is set on putting back in motion as soon as is physically possible. “When they came out with Schedulicity Pays, to me that was groundbreaking. The money that I have saved in fees because of it is unbelievable, and I think it’s really important that stylists and potential clients know about it. Not to mention what they have done with Schedulicity Cares, waiving their membership fees for this entire time; I just think Jerry is incredible.” “I love working with people that have good hearts and that, to me, is what Schedulicity represents. Everything that they do is to help their clients, they have given so much support to the hair industry. They are out to help and meet the needs of their customers – even what they have been doing with the Town Halls, they have such good energy and it’s been such a great outlet.” If there is one thing that Alfredo has learned from his long, varied and incredibly successful career, it is that nothing comes easy, and that the journey can at times seem challenging, but it is worth it for the reward. Choose your mentors wisely, make the effort and don’t give up on your dreams. “I think we have one of the best professions in the world, even in times like these. Hairdressers are stronger together, we have each other’s backs, we’re competitive but we’re creative and we’re a community. The possibilities are endless. I mean, who’d have ever thought a hair stylist from Orange County would today be running global education for a L’Oréal brand?!”

From the moment the lockdown was announced, Schedulicity has continuously done everything in its power to support its customers and the wider hair and beauty industry, from regular town hall meetings to grant giveaways When it became clear back in March that the COVID-19 pandemic was going to have a lasting impact on the hair and beauty sector, Schedulicity were one of the first brands to create helpful solutions for their clients, to ease their financial burden and offer support. CEO Jerry Nettuno shared a statement, saying: “Schedulicity started with the mission of helping people grow their business sustainably and to find success on their own terms. That resonated with you early on, and we are deeply grateful for the enthusiasm, loyalty, and support you’ve shown us since we launched.” “These are uncertain times, and we understand that many of you are facing some difficult financial situations. We want to support you in any way that we can, which is why we’re waiving subscription fees for Schedulicity for the next three months. That applies to current businesses as well as any new businesses needing some extra help. Anyone can now sign up for Schedulicity for free.” On June 25th, the period was extended to September 1, 2020, to help lighten the last few months’ financial burdens and allow a transition period before payments resumed. This is just one of many ways in which Schedulicity has been supporting the industry. On April 1, #SchedulicityCares took on a re-brand, offering $500 grants three days a week, and any Schedulicity business is eligible to apply. By mid-July, over 50 businesses had received the $500 grant, each one a valued member of the Schedulicity community. Keen to continue to inspire said community, they also launched a series of virtual Town Hall meetings. Each one offers the chance to get advice from experts on how to keep your business moving forward, and get support from like-minded people. Some of the names to grace the Town Halls so far include Lee Resnick, Alan Lipman, Mari de Monte, Brittany Fitapelli and more. To find out more, visit schedulicity.com.

I love working with people that have good hearts and that, to me, is what Schedulicity represents. Everything that they do is to help their clients, they have given so much support to the hair industry. 44

A SALON LIKE NO OTHER, YOU WON’T FIND ‘STATIONS’ HERE. INSTEAD, YOU’LL BE TAKEN TO ONE OF FIVE INDIVIDUAL, SEMI-PRIVATE PODS KNOWN AS ‘CLOUDS’. INSIDE THESE CLOUDS, YOU’LL BE TREATED TO QUALITY COLOR AND HAIR SERVICES IN A DEEPLY IMMERSIVE CLIENT EXPERIENCE... 46

There are few salons that can list themselves as the world’s first smart salon, and it may well be the future. Powered by Amazon and Alexa and located on La Brea in Hollywood, STARRING by Ted Gibson is a spacious 1,100 square foot salon designed by visionary Francisco Gonzalez Pulido. Designed to reinvent the salon industry, each ‘cloud’ is outfitted with Amazon technology for that immersive experience, from voice controlled lighting and music, to an unprecedented retail experience and cashless payment; clients can

purchase products used on them during their appointment through the salon booking platform or through Amazon to be shipped directly to their home. “Architecturally, the pods were inspired by hair blowing in the wind,” says co-owner Ted Gibson. “The salon itself was inspired by our vision for disrupting the salon industry, reinventing all touchpoints of the salon experience, from manufacturer to client. When we were thinking about the concept of the salon, we were really thinking about the salon of the future.” u

At STARRING, color is a huge focus, from balayage and highlighting, to covering gray and even rainbow shades. The focus is on figuring out what brings out a clients’ individual beauty and helping them see themselves in a beautiful way. “Over the past few months, we have seen both celebrities and every day clients making bold decisions with both their cut and color choices. People have been more daring to lean into something new, whether that is because they are not at their typical job or because maybe they have been forced to stay inside over the past few months and are really looking to, in a way, start over or start fresh. We use Goldwell color at our salon as we have a great relationship with the brand and love their product offering,” says co-owner Jason Backe.

“It’s been encouraging to hear that most of our clients have waited to visit the salon to have their color done, avoiding any tricky color corrections! Some reached out and asked for advice, so we were able to suggest products that would get them by but wouldn’t interfere with their overall look or damage their color.” As well as their love of all things color, putting a focus on retail has been part of STARRING’s success, but not in the way you might expect. There are no retail products housed at the salon, but why? “We did so for years at our old salons and have realized that the consumer’s way of shopping and purchasing has completely shifted,” explains Ted. “Therefore, we utilize Amazon to ship product directly to our clients, but we do think it is important

for our stylists to educate clients on what is best for them to purchase to use on their hair postappointment, whether that is good aftercare for colored hair or simply a styling product.” “We have developed our own Shooting Star Texture Meringue as well – it is a non-sticky mousse-foam hybrid that is incredibly light yet has a powerful hold. The styling formula moisturizes and strengthens the hair by penetrating deep into the cuticle. It increases suppleness while promoting glass and texture, and allows you to transform both wet or dry hair.” This is one of many ways in which STARRING is truly ahead of the curve. It is an innovative, forwardthinking salon experience that is different from anything else. The luxury, intimate experience is a unique one. Everything is different, from the ‘clouds’

The luxury, intimate experience is a unique one. Everything is different, from the ‘clouds’ to the color services, to the way in which clients shop, and all of it is brought together under one roof.

It’s been encouraging to hear that most of our clients have waited to visit the salon to have their color done, avoiding any tricky color corrections!” 49

to the color services, to the way in which clients shop, and all of it is brought together under one roof. After being forced to close for three months due to the pandemic, and then reopening on a limited schedule, the team put a number of safety measures into place to ensure the safety of both their clients and their staff. Unfortunately, on July 13, Governer Gavin Newsom ordered the closure of a range of businesses, including hair salons, in 30 counties were the number of cases of COVID-19 are rising, forcing STARRING to once again close its doors until further notice. Despite this set back, the team are keeping positive and looking forward to rounding out their team, creating new opportunities, and seeing their successful business continue to flourish.

Working with Truss Professional, I’ve been able to create beautiful, minimally damaged work – even for clients who have overprocessed hair. The Truss Blanc Blond lightener is very gentle while lifting the hair into that perfect blonde, and hair health and integrity are extremely important to me.”

THE COLOR TREND THAT HAS TAKEN THE HAIR WORLD BY STORM THE PAST FEW YEARS, BALAYAGE REQUIRES SKILL, PASSION AND A GOOD EYE. TRUSS PROFESSIONAL BRAND SPECIALIST AND BLONDE EXPERT GRACE JOO TELLS US THE SECRETS OF THIS SOUGHT-AFTER SERVICE...

The key to any great balayage is fine sections, foil placements and saturation of the bleach. I can’t stress it enough that all three are equally important in achieving the perfect balayage – be patient with all of them during the coloring process.”

I’ve always loved doing hair, but I chose color as my specialty because of my old boss, Michael Klomsue. His transformations inspired me more than any haircut. The results were fascinating to look at – how a client’s hair can go from one color to another and completely transform a vibe. As a blonde specialist, I love being able to transform my clients’ hair and challenge myself to tailor it to everyone’s individual wants or needs. I think anyone can look good with blonde hair, it’s incredibly versatile so it all depends on the shade. When it comes to balayage, honestly, it is a case of trial and error when you first get started. I learned the basics from Michael and I started taking more color classes that I felt would suit my own style. I was picky about what classes I would take – mainly stylists who inspired me from the beginning. I knew I had to keep up with trends and education in order for me to stay in the game, but I wanted to stay true to myself as well. I took something from every technique class, good or bad. Every piece of education is a learning experience, I took bits and pieces that made my balayage technique more me.

I think the reason that balayage has become so popular, particularly for brunettes, is because it is easier and lower maintenance than being full-blown blonde. You can have the best of both worlds, darker at the top, lighter at the ends. You can go months on end without retouching if you do it properly. Also, the lived-in look became trendy at the same time, and balayage is a great way to give people the look but still have control. I think in the coming months, balayage will become the new type of highlight – it will be the basic foundation for future trends to build on. The key to any great balayage is fine sections, foil placements and saturation of the bleach. I can’t stress it enough that all three are equally important in achieving the perfect balayage – be patient with all of them during the coloring process. I think that is where a lot of people mess up – not taking fine enough sections, taking the foils out too early, or not saturating enough. Every step of the balayage process is extremely time consuming and in order to achieve the desired level, you can’t expect to take any shortcuts. Both the client and the stylist have to come to a mutual understanding that it will take multiple sessions to get the best results. At the end of the day, this is your canvas and your work of art. So, the best advice I can give is to be slow and steady. Take your time and be patient. Working with Truss Professional, I’ve been able to create beautiful, minimally damaged work – even for clients who have over-processed hair. The Truss Blanc Blond lightener is very gentle while lifting the hair into that perfect blonde, and hair health and integrity are extremely important to me. I personally don’t think you should compromise those two for the sake of a beautiful picture at the end. It’s a policy of mine to always delve carefully into a client’s hair history before deciding on whether I can help them achieve a light and bright blonde.

Photographer// Robert Ligresti. Makeup// David Maderich. Wardrobe// Rod Nova. Director// Maggie Mulhern. Nails// Armani Jeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ton. Model// Maisa Favero. Hair// Sydney Lopez.

KNOWN FOR CREATING VIBRANT, FASHION COLORS WITH EDGY, ROMANTIC STYLES, SYDNEY LOPEZ IS A RISING STAR IN THE COLOR INDUSTRY. A SEXY HAIR ARTIST AND ONE OF THE NEWEST BRAND AMBASSADORS FOR GOLDWELL, SYDNEY IS FAST BECOMING A CREATIVE COLOR GURU. Take one look at her Instagram profile, filled with mesmerizing color palettes and intricate braids, and you can easily see why her 121,000 followers are drawn to her. It should come as no surprise as well that a talent and passion for hair runs in the family, her mother a successful hairstylist for 45 years. “Growing up around her, I always knew that hair and beauty were meant for me. I have a degree in secondary education, and spent many years working in another industry, but when I was 29 years old, I decided to finally enroll at cosmetology school, graduating in 2012 and opening the second Headlines Hair Design in Denton, Texas, with my mother in 2016,” she explains. Creative by nature, Sydney has always been drawn to anything artistic, from sketching to painting to poetry, but color quickly became a driving force. When she was just three years old, her mom colored her hair for the first time and Sydney was hooked. Growing up knowing that just a couple of hours in her mom’s chair could change her entire look only intensified her love of color transformations.

When she finally enrolled in cosmetology school, color just clicked for Sydney. From that first highlight she did – which was actually on her husband – to the first fashion color, she was hooked. “I love the chemistry that goes into color, color theory, and the happiness it brings to so many clients! Some of my clients will bring in inspiration photos, but they aren’t typically of hair. Usually it will be a picture of a paint sample, a sunset, a galaxy, or even a unique living room. I love to take color inspiration from unexpected places and then paint the hair along that palette. I have a large number of clients who will let me do whatever I want, which usually means they will have every fun, bright color of the rainbow!” “I think bright, creative colors are definitely more appreciated and more popular than they used to be. I always tell my natural-haired clients (yes, I have quite a few), who are wanting to dabble in fashion colors, that lavender and rose gold are the gateway drugs to rainbow hair. Everyone always starts out small and safe, then they realize how much fun fashion colors can be!” u

If you are thinking you recognize Sydney from something other than her Instagram, it might just happen to be because of her work as a Sexy Hair artist, or perhaps the fact that she starred in a recent episode of TV series, The Look, where she went head to head with fellow stylist Neal Malek in two style competitions. “It was really such a unique experience,” says Sydney. “It was so fun to see the ins and outs of a TV show and production. The entire crew was incredible. It was a very jam-packed day that was also unforgettable – we only had 45 minutes to do a complete transformation, so my nerves were unreal!” Despite the pandemic, Sydney has had a few very exciting milestones in the past few months, not just her first TV appearance, but also her recent appointment as Brand Ambassador for Goldwell, a company that has held Sydney’s respect and admiration for some time: “From the launch of their innovative Pure Pigments, to the newest addition of Elumen Play, both their creative color and natural color lines have made my heart flutter. The Goldwell team is full of talented and creative artists who have welcomed me with open arms. The opportunity to partner with Goldwell, be a part of their team, and create a world of color with their products is so very incredible.” Pure Pigment is definitely at the top of her go-to Goldwell list. You can add the pigmented drops to any color and really shift tone, balance unwanted tones, or intensify the power of a color with just a few drops. “The Eluman Play new metallic shades also have my heart! They are the perfect blend of fashion color with a metallic finish – plus they have little sparkles throughout each tube!” Working with color does have its challenges though, and at the time Sydney was in cosmetology school, very few artists or educators were teaching fashion color. When Sydney first

The best thing about working with multiple colors is there are no rules. Every client I have with fashion colored hair is creative, open to my suggestions, and allows me to be the artist.” started experimenting with color, she had to look at online forums and, in many ways, teach herself. Lucky for her, she had plenty of clients that were open to letting her play with new ideas on their hair. “The best thing about working with multiple colors is there are no rules. Every client I have with fashion colored hair is creative, open to my suggestions, and allows me to be the artist. They will give me inspiration, but each and every one of them allows me to do what I think would be the most beautiful. It’s incredible to be creating a piece of art that walks around in the world,” says Sydney. “Education is key with color. Spend any extra time learning from other artists, going to their classes, and be inspired by artists outside of our industry. Practice what you’ve learned, and take note of how far you’ve grown – celebrate your successes! Cultivate industry relationships; your peers can teach you more than anyone. Reach out to artists who inspire you, let them know you’re using their technques, and ask them questions when you have them.” •

Photographer// Melissa Claire. Makeup & Hair// Sydney Lopez. Model// Tara Hughs.

Photographer// Robert Ligresti. Makeup// David Maderich. Wardrobe/ Rod Nova. Director// Maggie Mulhern. Nails// Armani Je’ton. Model// Helen Harley. Hair// Sydney Lopez.

Photographer// Lauren Apel. Makeup & Hair// Sydney Lopez. Model// Gabrielle Noe.

IF YOU ARE ON THE LOOKOUT FOR CREATIVE COLOR, YOU DON’T NEED TO LOOK FURTHER THAN KEUNE EDUCATOR, PHOTOGRAPHER AND HAIR STYLIST, DALLAN FLINT. AT HIS #HAUSOFFLINT, HE AND HIS TEAM CREATE ART WITH HIGH QUALITY COLOR.

Beauty school might have started off as a way to keep Dallan busy, but over time, it became a passion that has guided his entire career. Color, in particular, became a source of fascination and inspiration for him. “I love hair color so much because it is such a fascinating process to lighten and color someone’s hair. It challenges me every day to be a chemist and formulate, the possibilities are endless,” says Dallan. “Hair truly is the canvas and we as creatives, as artists and colorists, paint a beautiful picture on someone’s hair. Sometimes we get to have a lot of fun with experimental prints and designs on the hair.” Today, Dallan and his team at Haus of Flint are known for creating incredible and sometimes award-winning editorial collections using color and creative styles, so, what is it that makes a collection a winner? “You never know what the judges are looking for, so all you can do is start with an idea you’ve been aching to get out,” says Dallan. “We start by storyboarding our inspiration to get an idea of a couple of common themes and ask ourselves how we can combine the two. How do we refine and elevate our own spin on it?”

I love hair color so much because it is such a fascinating process to lighten and color someone’s hair. It challenges me every day to be a chemist and formulate, the possibilities are endless.” 56

Then it’s all about adding in wardrobe, finding the right lighting and the right models for the collection. A lot of research and preparation goes into making these shoots a success, but for Dallan, the most important thing throughout the process is to be unapologetically and authentically yourself. While a beautiful hairstyle on its own can be award-winning in and of itself, color can add a whole new dimension to a look. “It changes the way we look at that hairstyle and it makes us imagine what that person is like. It makes you want to get to know them. What are their hobbies and interests? Hair color definitely adds character and personality to a look.” Prior to lockdown, the most common color trends besides simple root touch-ups were the ever popular balayage, as well as smoky and pastel vivids. Post lockdown, it seems that clients are keen to experiment and try something new, with an influx in extreme all-over blondes, bright and colorful vivids and a lot of fiery reds. “We’ve had a ton of people say they want a total change, want to switch it up and go big or go home, so that’s exactly what we’ve been doing. u

Hair truly is the canvas and we as creatives, as artists and colorists, paint a beautiful picture on someoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hair.â&#x20AC;?

For the rest of the year, I can really see color blocking becoming more of a trend with natural hair colors and vivid fashion colors, mainly with framing around the face.â&#x20AC;?

The Keune color range is perfect. It’s not too much or overwhelming, they’ve got their shades down to a tee. They are easy to customize too it is by far one of the best lines I’ve worked with.” We post a lot of our work on our Instagram stories so you can get a small taste of what we’re currently doing. We have already had a ton of home dye-jobs too, muddy colors, patchwork self-bleaching and more! The best advice I can give when dealing with this is just to be prepared and be well-stocked with products – we ran out of product day two of reopening when that color order should have lasted us a week! Make sure you take time to get a proper consultation so you know exactly what you’re dealing with and be as transparent as possible about what it’s going to take to fix it!” “Since we are in the warmer, summer months, we expect it to continue this way until we hit autumn. For the rest of the year, I can really see color blocking becoming more of a trend with natural hair colors and vivid fashion colors, mainly with framing around the face.” As well as being an expert stylist and colorist, Dallan is also well-known for his skills behind the camera. In fact, he says that stepping behind the camera has given him a different appreciation for cuts and colors and how they are styled. “I love to compete in competitions and helping others build collections and getting those ideas to translate on camera, the way you or that person envisioned, is a truly beautiful moment. I live for those moments. My wife is the main photographer and she sees things as a consumer and I see things as a hairdresser; when we combine our perspectives, it makes for some pretty cool collections!” The key to any colored style is starting with quality products, and for Dallan, that means Keune America: “For me, there is just no comparison. I’ve been using Keune for such a long time now and it never lets me down. Especially when you are dealing with color corrections - using a quality color line like Keune

makes all the difference.” Now an Ambassador for the brand, Dallan had a long relationship with Keune before becoming an ambassador. What encouraged him to officially become part of the team was knowing that he was more than just a number in a large corporation. Still family-owned and operated, Dallan can see that they believe in quality over quantity, and that once you are part of the team, you too are treated like part of the family. “I also don’t like to put my brand and reputation on the line unless I truly believe in a brand, what they stand for, how they treat their people, and if what they produce is actually high quality,” explains Dallan. “There are a lot of good brands out there but Keune is a GREAT brand, and I’m just blown away by how their color and product lines perform. I was, and still am, honored to join the Keune family.” What makes the color range stand out for Dallan is that everything, every shade, has a purpose, as he explains: “The Keune color range is perfect. It’s not too much or overwhelming, they’ve got their shades down to a tee. They are easy to customize too – it is by far one of the best lines I’ve worked with. It leaves your clients’ hair looking and feeling so soft and shiny, it’s incredible – it gives hair a new lease of life!” With the quarantine color disasters slowly disappearing, clients returning to the chair and Dallan and his team getting back into the swing of things, there is still plenty to look forward to in 2020. “I’m excited to get more creative again. To collaborate with my salon team and other local stylists on collections. It is competition season right now so I’m hoping to be very busy until entries close in October – and then I’ll need a vacation!” •

salon retail

EVERYONE IN THE INDUSTRY KNOWS THAT THESE PAST FEW MONTHS HAVE BEEN DIFFICULT, AND ALTHOUGH MANY SALONS ARE BACK IN BUSINESS, MOST ARE OPERATING AT LIMITED CAPACITY, MAKING RETAIL OFFERINGS MORE VALUABLE THAN EVER. From educating clients to finding a retail line you truly believe in, we share insights from salons and stylists on how they make their products work for them...

The Retail Experience.

PENZONE

SALONS + SPAS IN 1969, CHARLES PENZONE DEFIED WHAT OTHERS THOUGHT WAS IMPOSSIBLE – HE OPENED THE DOORS TO HIS FIRST SALON WITH ONLY TWO EMPLOYEES AND A $500 BANK LOAN. SEVERAL DECADES AND SIX SALONS LATER, THEY STILL BELIEVE IN THE SAME VALUES THAT BROUGHT THEM TO THIS MOMENT. A passion for community, an emphasis on education, and a never-ending desire to make others feel beautiful from the inside out – that is what PENZONE stands for, and over the course of half a century, the brand has grown in size and scale, branching out beyond the salon world. Since 2017, the only constant for PENZONE has been change. In May 2017, they opened their first barbershop, Royal Rhino Club Barbershop & Lounge and the following December, they opened L I T Life + Yoga. In May 2018, they launched a new flagship salon and rebranded their five existing Salon + Spa locations throughout Columbus, adding two new locations in the following years. Since the rebrand, the approach to self-care at PENZONE has been more holistic. Every element of the experience is part of their intentional approach to beauty. “We weave mindfulness into services, offer elevated amenities with a full-service bar and specialty coffee and more... Before COVID, we hosted community events and even yoga, and in fact, we’ve

started offering outdoor AIReal Yoga classes in an open field adjacent to our salon. This offering is growing in popularity and will likely be a mainstay, especially as group fitness opportunities are still limited given social distancing.” One of the other elements that plays an important role at PENZONE Salons + Spas is retail. Along with traditional salon and spa retail, there are also specialty, boutique items like branded apparel, intentional jewelry from local jeweler BOHINDI, gift items and more. The products used in the salon services are all available on the retail shelves so guests can maintain their self-care and recreate their look from home. “We’ve always maintained that retail is a very important part of the salon experience. In fact, in our Junior Stylist Training program, one of the projects our team members do is attempt a blowout without product. It’s an extremely valuable lesson on the importance of products. The service can be done, but not nearly as well and with much less staying power.”

“I think the importance and value of retail will continue post-pandemic. Since our reopening in May, our guests have been so enthusiastic about scheduling their self-care and coming to see us. The retail opportunity comes as a result.” This is why, more often than not, clients simply cannot recreate that ‘salon’ look at home, because they are not using retail products. At PENZONE, clients are educated on the importance of using product properly, and how it will enhance even a simple blow-dry at home.

I THINK THE IMPORTANCE AND VALUE OF RETAIL WILL CONTINUE POSTPANDEMIC. SINCE OUR REOPENING IN MAY, OUR GUESTS HAVE BEEN SO ENTHUSIASTIC ABOUT SCHEDULING THEIR SELF-CARE AND COMING TO SEE US. THE RETAIL OPPORTUNITY COMES AS A RESULT.” 63

At the end of July, PENZONE is rolling out a new e-commerce platform for retail. This shop will be available on the website and on their guest-facing app. Orders can be placed for pick-up in the salons or for shipping. Guests can even setup recurring product drops to make sure they never run out of their favorites. This is one of many ways that PENZONE goes beyond the outer shell of beauty. For them, beauty comes from within and how we nourish our bodies, how we fuel our confidence. It’s much more than just what’s seen on the outside. Everything from the way clients are greeted, to the service, to learning how to use the retail products to create a look or a feeling in their own home. While client wellbeing remains at the forefront of PENZONE, many things have had to be changed or adapted in light of COVID-19, from removing dual mani/pedi services, some massages and graband-go food offerings, along with implementing a range of health and safety procedures, which clients have embraced. “We’ve been so thrilled with the response from our guests. During quarantine, we temporarily disabled our online booking. The day we reenabled it, our guests booked over 2,500 appointments in one day!” With the launch of the e-commerce store imminent, there is a lot to look forward to, including introducing on-demand offerings, where artists and therapists can go on location to provide services. Ironically, it is an idea that the PENZONE team has been exploring for years – it just took a global pandemic to propel the project forward!

I LOVED THE IDEA OF CREATING PRODUCTS THAT HELP MAINTAIN YOUR COLOR IN BETWEEN SALON VISITS AND THAT’S EXACTLY WHAT DPHUE PRODUCTS DO!”

DPHUE APPLE CIDER VINEGAR HAIR RINSE This formula gently cleanses and removes impurities without stripping color or the natural oils that are essential to the health of your scalp and hair. Formulated to be gentle, lock in color and strengthen hair.

$35.00 // dphue.com

ONE OF THE MOST SOUGHT-AFTER PROFESSIONAL COLORISTS IN THE WORLD, JUSTIN ANDERSON HAS BUILT AN INCREDIBLE CAREER FOR HIMSELF AS A STYLIST TO THE STARS, PRODUCT DEVELOPER AND OLAPLEX AMBASSADOR. A native of Southern California, Justin Anderson grew up near and in the water. His fascination with the way ocean water and the sun naturally lightened hair led to his interest in color as a profession. “I loved the natural highlights you would get from the sun, so from a young age I was obsessed with color and creating that perfect beach blonde hair,” says Justin. In his early career, he apprenticed with leading blonde experts before his undeniable talent led to his own chair and Vogue anointing him ‘a rising star of blonde Hollywood’. “When I was an assistant at Neil George Salon in Beverly Hills, Kirsten Dunst’s assistant called at the end of the day to see if there was anyone available to take her from brunette to blonde for a movie. Everyone else was ready to go home, but I stayed

until 3am to do it. It was in that moment that my career really grew and I learned to never turn down an opportunity. I still get those ‘pinch me’ moments though, even now!” Justin’s work with celebrities soon catapulted him to the top of the Beverly Hills salon community and demand for Justin’s services extended well beyond blondes. Today, he works with some of the biggest A-listers in the world, coloring the hair of Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Aniston, Kristin Cavallari, Miley Cyrus, Margot Robbie and more, with his work regularly gracing the covers of Harper’s Bazaar, Glamour Magazine and even Vogue – not to mention co-starring in E!’s Very Cavallari, which follows his friend and client Kristin Cavallari’s life with Jay Cutler. Justin met Krisin when he was 18 and has been styling her hair, and acting as a close confidant, ever since! u

FROM A YOUNG AGE I WAS OBSESSED WITH COLOR AND CREATING THAT PERFECT BEACH BLONDE HAIR.”

JUSTIN ANDERSON

As his relationship with color developed, so too did his curiosity. One of the biggest issues clients face with colored hair is maintaining their color between appointments, keeping it fresh and vibrant, so Justin set out to fix this problem, creating his own brand, dpHUE. “I loved the idea of creating products that help maintain your color in between salon visits and that’s exactly what dpHUE products do! You know that feeling you get after washing your hair a few times after leaving the salon and it already feels like the color faded? Well, I wanted to come up with something that made you feel like you had fresh color days, even weeks, after your appointment, so I created a range that is designed for all hair types and colors.” Today, Justin leads dpHUE in the development of products and educational content to enable people everywhere to best care for their color and keep their hair healthy. He swears by the ACV Hair Rinse. As a big believer that you should not shampoo your hair every day, the ACV Hair Rinse provides an alternative that won’t strip your hair. Although the current pandemic caused a number of issues for the industry as a whole, being in the retail game has helped Justin cater to clients and allow them to take care of their hair in the new normal. “Our products cater to the new norm of taking care of your own hair at home, so when you can’t get to the salon, the dpHUE Root Touch Up Kit is an easy at-home treatment to permanently keep gray hair in check. Our Gloss as well is a semi-permanent hair color that will boost your color while also hydrating the hair, which is key when you have a long wait between salon visits,” says Justin. “I think having a back-up plan is always a good idea. I am passionate about the dpHUE products and feel fortunate that during these hard times I can still provide a way of making someone feel confident with their hair color on their own! I love supporting

other pros in the industry, and right now I know colorists are having a hard time making money, so I’m donating 50% of dpHUE sales to them when their clients order with them through our app. One thing I encourage all colorists to tell their clients: do NOT use box color at home There are lots of safe products you can use that won’t damage your hair or mess up your beautiful salon color.” In 2019, Justin and Kristin Cavallari collaborated to create an innovative product for dpHUE – the Blonding Brush Heat-Activated Highlighter for gradual precision lightening between regular appointments. This year, they launched their second product together – Sun & City Mist, a lightweight mist that protects hair from UV color-fading and pollution. Combining his love for color with a product line has allowed Justin to become not only a first-class colorist, but a businessman. Having a retail line that he believes in has not only been a passion project, but a lifeline at a time when salons had to shut their doors, not knowing when they might be able to welcome clients back again. In addition to developing his own product line, Justin is also an ambassador for Olaplex, which creates a range of world-renowned products designed to repair, protect and strengthen all hair types. As an ambassador for Olaplex, one of Justin’s main goals is to provide his clients with gorgeous healthy color inside and out – especially as his clients are often getting their hair styled and changed for movie roles. “It has been really incredible. I love the Olaplex products and I use them on all my clients. I love sharing my passion for the products and for color with my clients and my fellow stylists. Being part of a global team like that is a real honor. If there is one piece of advice I can give, it is to take on every opportunity, stay late, work hard – it pays off!” •

Your Daily detox www.victorybarber.com

POST LOCKDOWN RECOVERY:

A NEW LEASE OF LIFE FOR SALONS’ RETAIL SALES FOR ANY OWNER, OPENING A SALON OR SPA IS A LONG-TIME DREAM THEY HOPE TO GROW INTO NOT ONLY A FINANCIALLY HEALTHY OPERATION, BUT A PROFITABLE ONE TOO. DISASTROUSLY THOUGH, THE NATIONWIDE COVID-19 LOCKDOWNS HAVE RANSACKED THE CASH RESERVES OF COUNTLESS BUSINESSES. Recovering from this crisis will require grit, resilience and mental agility. Nothing the hair and beauty industry can’t handle — thankfully. After the initial reopening influx of clients, salons and spas will need to get creative with new and sustainable revenue streams to counter the financial strain of social distancing protocols on their monthly earnings.

Going online, the new must Current discussions with Phorest Salon Software clients show a strong demand for digitizing the salon aftercare experience, which is echoed by Nina Childers, Owner and Creative Director of Bella Salon & Spa in Pennsylvania: “The next generation of our business is in retail. Selling products online gives us a way to market to clients who may not be in the salon. It can be shipped directly to their house.” To be clear, retail has always been a scalable and profitable way to add revenue to salon businesses without having to hire additional employees, and the retail landscape in the hair and beauty industry was already undergoing changes before COVID-19.

However, with testers now removed from shelves and products handled by staff only, customers are encouraged to buy products online to help flatten the curve, and as much as possible, support local businesses. Therein lies the golden opportunity for salons to boost income and plug the revenue gap incurred from both weeks of closure and new protocols. Beyond a sales pitch and a monetary transaction, a well-equipped retail offering provides a framework for salons to build trustworthy relationships with every client from the initial consultation to their next appointment. Make it convenient and social distancing friendly — an online store — and you’re adding a powerful tool to your marketing arsenal. For example, an employee’s weekly target is $1,500 in services and $500 in retail. That’s $8,000 in revenue brought in by one staff member, for one month. Assuming both targets are hit for the next six months, that’s $48,000; $12,000 of which comes from retail. Add that to other staff members’ objectives and the sales generated from marketing your online store, and it’s easy to see why numerous salon owners are using retail to boost their income.

Words// Zoé Bélisle-Springer, Digital Content Editor, Phorest Salon Software.

Same, but different After all, hearing your clients out and recommending the best solutions to their challenges doesn’t change. The digital experience simply revisits how clients access professionally recommended products: “The best way to work on XYZ is to keep well hydrated, avoid excessive alcohol and if possible, cut out extra salt. As for a hydrating cream or serum option, I would suggest you start with ‘X’ product. Let me send you an email with this and other recommendations you can look at. With our new online store, you’ll be able to purchase and receive your products at home.” We’ve been talking about rethinking retail for years, but some things just take time. As the author, Jim Collins said in his best-selling book Good To Great: “[...] good-to-great transformations never happen overnight. Rather, the process is like relentlessly pushing a giant, heavy flywheel, over and over, building momentum until a point of breakthrough, and beyond.” That’s what this moment is: a breakthrough. One that will both help salons recover post-lockdown and keep staff actively engaged by showing a professional concern for the client, beyond their on-premise journey.

Simpler than you think While digitizing salons’ retail experience might seem like an arduous process amid reopening, it doesn’t have to be. Phorest Salon Software’s new Online Store feature, for instance, was built with salon and spa owners’ challenges in mind: time, keeping loyal customers buying from the salon and making it possible for product recommendations to be sent to clients by their trusted salon professionals. With Phorest, it’s as easy as pick, click, sell: pick the products already in your stock list to sell online, click to send your ready-made email campaign and sell right away, 24/7.

The Retail Expert.

Find out what your retail targets would need be set at upon reopening by using Phorest Salon Software’s free calculator at www.phorest.com/salon-calculator/, and learn more about the Online Store feature at www.phorest.com/features/online-store/.

AFTER THE INITIAL REOPENING INFLUX OF CLIENTS, SALONS AND SPAS WILL NEED TO GET CREATIVE WITH NEW AND SUSTAINABLE REVENUE STREAMS TO COUNTER THE FINANCIAL STRAIN OF SOCIAL DISTANCING PROTOCOLS ON THEIR MONTHLY EARNINGS.

ONE OF THE LATEST EXCITING ADDITIONS TO THE WAHL PROFESSIONAL TEAM, NAHA WINNER JAMIE DIGRAZIA TELLS US EXCLUSIVELY ABOUT HER EXCITING NEW ROLE AS THE WAHL 1919 STYLING AND FINISHING LINE EDUCATOR, WHY SHE OPERATES A GENDERLESS PRICING SYSTEM AT HER SHOP AND HOW VITAL A ROLE RETAIL EDUCATION WILL PLAY IN THE COMING MONTHS...

The Retail Educator.

JAMIE DIGRAZIA

Originally trained as a cosmetologist but specializing in short hair, Jamie DiGrazia is now the proud owner of Logan Parlor, an award-winning inclusive hair salon, in Chicago. “After graduating I was still so keen to learn more, so I went to every class I came across, even traveling to learn whatever skillset I was trying to improve on, so education has always been a part of my background. Then I went on to work as an educator for Redken, developing a lot of their classes and education in men’s grooming,” says Jamie. “I used to go and sit at the WAHL booth at shows and just watch and listen and the more I took that back to the chair, the more I improved. I would see work that other people had done and want to recreate it myself and I found education so empowering, so I’ve always been keen to give that back to other people.” Since she first got her license 18 years ago, Jamie has built up an impressive resume as an awardwinning stylist, winning the NAHA Men’s Hairstylist of the Year award in 2018. Throughout her career, Jamie has always been drawn to shorter styles,

which she attributes to growing up in and around the LGBT+ community. “A lot of my friends had really short hair and I was just trying to work it out on their heads and I ended up getting pretty good at it. I just really enjoyed the look and feel of shorter, textured hair because I feel there is more creative freedom. It grows back quickly so you can change the style regularly. I feel like people who have short hair tend to be more open and are more likely to go for something a bit edgier or experimental. I love that you can do one cut but get a range of different styles from that cut depending on the product you use.” When it came to opening Logan Parlor, Jamie wanted the focus to be on inclusivity, and removing any clear genders from services. Even the name Parlor is intended to be neutral, rather than labeling the space either a barbershop or a salon. To further enhance this message, the pricing structure in the salon is based entirely on the length of your hair, so whether you are male, female or nonbinary, you pay the same price as everyone else.

THE WAHL 1919 STYLING AND FINISHING LINE CONSISTS OF 11 PRODUCTS THAT INCLUDE HAIR CARE, HAIR STYLING, BEARD CARE AND SKIN CARE THAT BARBERS AND STYLISTS CAN USE AND SELL TO IMPROVE THE LEVEL OF STYLE AND SERVICE THEY OFFER THEIR CLIENTS WHILE INCREASING THEIR OWN REVENUE.”

“After working in shops with gendered pricing I just didn’t see how it made sense,” explains Jamie. “I wanted to eliminate that from the beginning and it felt like the right thing to do. I wish more people would do it because it’s actually been a great thing for our business. With everything being based on length, the schedule is more bookable and it’s a system that works for us.” “Think as well about your team – we try to make sure that whoever walks in the door, they will feel welcome and their hair will be treated properly no matter what kind of texture hair they have. Hire people that have skills with natural hair, long hair, short hair... hire those people and you will open yourself up to a range of clients.” Now, Jamie is excited to take on a new role with WAHL, where she will be developing educational workshops and online training for barbers and stylists working with the WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line. “We were at ISSE and we were all stuck there for some reason, nobody was flying in or out of LA, and I was in line next to WAHL Professional’s U.S. Director of Education, Lisa Finucane. We got to talking and saying how much we want to collaborate, and then next thing I know back in Chicago she’s coming into the shop to get her hair done with one of my other stylists,” laughs Jamie. The more Jamie learned about what Lisa was doing with the WAHL Education and Artistic Team (W.E.A.T.), and after teaming up to shoot together for NAHA, she was even more determined to work with the WAHL team on a bigger project. Now, that project has landed in her lap and she could not be more excited to get started. Working primarily on the WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line, Jamie will be creating a range of learning tools for hair professionals. “I’m so excited that WAHL launched this styling and finishing line. I trust the brand, I’ve used WAHL clippers my whole career, and I know that everything I’ve purchased has made my haircuts better. So, I knew if they launched a styling and finishing line, I would feel the same way about it, and I’m excited to share what this line can do for businesses, not just as a styling tool, but as a business tool. There are only two ways to generate income in the shop: through services or through retail, so being able to offer a quality styling and finishing line in your shop that you are knowledgeable about will be a huge asset to your business and I’m excited to help other barbers and stylists understand that.” The WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line consists of 11 products that include hair care, hair styling, beard care and skin care that barbers and stylists can use and sell to improve the level of style and service they offer their clients while increasing their own revenue. The WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line, created in collaboration with industry-leading WEAT members, delivers key benefits barbers and stylists want:

I’M SO EXCITED THAT WAHL LAUNCHED THIS STYLING AND FINISHING LINE. I TRUST THE BRAND, I’VE USED WAHL CLIPPERS MY WHOLE CAREER.” expertly developed and formulated products with no parabens or sulfates, packaged in tubes, not pucks to maintain product quality in a safe, hygienic way – particularly important right now during Covid19 – while delivering performance from the first to last use. Barbers and stylists interested in offering the WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line in their shops can apply at https://wahlpro.com/store/reseller/. What makes the WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line even more exciting is that a portion of the purchase is put towards developing the WAHL Fade It Forward™ program, which helps underprivileged aspiring barbers and stylists go to barber school. As Jamie says, it’s a triple win: hair professionals win because they get a great styling and finishing

line to retail, the community wins because when you purchase the products, you are also giving back, and the clients win because they gain an understanding of a range of styling products that will help them recreate shop looks at home. “I just feel really good about the whole initiative. I think this is a styling and finishing line and a way to give back to the community that barbers and stylists can both get behind. I’m excited to create education for them that allows them to not only understand the product, but to help them explain these steps to the client and close the sale. It’s about helping them understand that this could be a great addition to their business. Especially now, when stylists are looking for ways to generate lost income. Even for me, we’ve only been open a few weeks and the support from clients has been amazing. They want to buy retail from us because they want to support us. I’m also very transparent with clients about how buying retail from us helps the business, so it’s been great to see them support us.” “It is all about little changes and ideas that barbers and stylists can use to improve their client relationships and retail sales. Are you in fact doing a disservice to your client if you don’t explain to them how the product you used will help them recreate their look at home? Could you put up a shelf in your reception or waiting area so clients can see the collection?” “It’s all about empowering barbers and stylists, that’s what this partnership with WAHL is all about and I’m so excited to get started!”

Decide what your new protocols are and share them. Whether that’s waiting in the car as the new waiting room, additional color charges for the extra product needed, or general price adjustments, you MUST tell them ahead of time.” For more info from Lexi check out her podcast ‘The 10 Minute Beauty Business Podcast’ on iTunes and Spotify, and on Instagram @lomax.lexi.

SALONS ARE OPEN, CLIENTS ARE BACK AND WE’RE TAKING EVERY PRECAUTION TO KEEP BOTH THEM AND OUR STAFF SAFE. PERHAPS ONE OF THE MORE CHALLENGING PARTS OF WELCOMING CLIENTS BACK TO THE SALON IS MANAGING THEIR EXPECTATIONS. SALON BUSINESS COACH LEXI LOMAX SHARES HER TOP TIPS...

GREAT EXPECTATIONS The biggest part of managing client expectations in the salon is always, especially now, communication.”

Coming back to the salon after being in quarantine is way more complicated than just turning the lights back on and taking that first client. There are so many variables to manage, tons of guests to rebook, and expectations to set, and share. The biggest most important thing to share aside from safety protocol happens even before the consultation: how to manage client expectations and deliver given the new parameters. In my salon, we are well into our first month of being back open, and having clear ‘rules’ for clients and an explanation for each rule prior to booking has made managing expectations so much easier, and made for much more pleasant interactions, and happier outcomes. Here are my top 3 tips for managing client expectations when returning to the salon after quarantine. 1. Tell them everything multiple times. Decide what your new protocols are and share them. Whether that’s waiting in the car as the new waiting room, additional color charges for the extra product needed, or general price adjustments, you MUST tell them ahead of time. I suggest sending new protocol when an appointment is booked, two days prior to the appointment, and have a verbal confirmation and recap during the in-salon consultation. 2. Have a virtual consultation. When guests are booked, or prior to the appointment, have a virtual consultation of some sort so that you know what you are dealing with ahead of time, and to again remind them of any specifics that may be different than the last time you saw each other. You can do this a number of ways: Zoom/FaceTime, text and picture messages, or email out a Google form and ask very specific questions. I like to ask: ‘what is your biggest challenge/first priority at your appointment?’ ‘no judgement, but what have you done at home to your hair?’ and other questions that will give light to any future hiccups, so you can address them before they happen, and explain that it may require multiple appointments to get them to their end result but that you will do your best to make it happen if possible. Remember to be as realistic as possible when sharing these expectations.

3. Ask for help from your guests. Share that TIME is the most important resource in the salon right now. That you are one to many, many clients, and ask them to be flexible with you. Whatever that means to you – as simple as being on time? No blow drys for now? Delayed responses from you because you are working a ton? Whatever you need, ask for it from them. Assure them that this wave will pass, and you will be able to do longer appointments, dive deeper into their hair goals at the next appointment, and that you appreciate them coming back to the salon, that they trust you with their beauty needs and to support you. Share your honest gratitude and let them know that the first appointment may be different, but this is new to all of us, and that you are just doing your best. Make them feel comfortable and a part of the process. Create community and relationships by sharing and asking for what you need, this is an exchange that I believe is a two-way street. The biggest part of managing client expectations in the salon is always, especially now, communication. Use these three tips to improve your communication and make your return to the chair that much easier. Make sure that you give guests plenty of time to make a decision if the new protocol you are outlining is good for them. No one likes something sprung on them in the last minute, especially regarding pricing. Be clear, over share and repeat yourself often and all will go well in navigating your beauty business and client expectations.

A WORLD OF CHANGE. NO MATTER WHERE WE ARE IN THE WORLD, EVERYONE HAS BEEN TOUCHED IN SOME WAY BY THIS PANDEMIC. THINGS HAVE CHANGED, BUT OUR PASSION AND DETERMINATION HAS NOT. WE TALK TO STYLISTS FROM ALL OVER THE GLOBE WHO TELL US WHAT LOCKDOWN LIFE HAS MEANT FOR THEM. While the majority of salons in North America have reopened, if the past few months have taught us anything, it is that nothing is certain, with hundreds of salons and shops forced to close again across California. More than ever, it is reassuring to hear from our peers across the globe who have reached the light at the end of that tunnel.

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES// CHAPS & CO. After the initial surge of post-quarantine haircuts, which lasted about eight or nine days, business at Chaps & Co was somewhat out of rhythm and things were unusually quiet for a couple of weeks. Now though, over six weeks on, the shop is seeing a steady growth pattern and regular customers are returning to the shops in their usual cycles. “The biggest challenge has been the capacity quota,” says owner Jordan Davies. “We initially began at 30%, which we recently increased to 50%. The overwhelming surge in demand met with the lowest supply we’ve been afforded caused major issues with waitlists, customers questioning their loyalty value and barbers frustrated by not working their regular shift patterns.” Thankfully, despite having shops in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, the differences in terms of restrictions were minimal, so they were able to implement

similar practices across all the locations. That meant at first, only haircuts were allowed, but within a couple of weeks, beard trims were back on the menu, although shaves remain offlimits. “It’s been a confusing time for everyone. PPE has been a big factor in the change. The barbers must change the disposable PPE for every customer, that means face masks, gloves, and clear plastic capes,” explains Jordan. “Aside from the additional cost to the business, it’s been widely accepted by staff and customers as the general feeling is that even if the PPE doesn’t 100% safeguard against the virus, the risk is mitigated and consciously we’re accepting the new rules for our own safety. We’ve actually picked up some new customers who come to us because they expect a better service and hygiene standard from us.”

IT’S BEEN A CONFUSING TIME FOR EVERYONE. PPE HAS BEEN A BIG FACTOR IN THE CHANGE. THE BARBERS MUST CHANGE THE DISPOSABLE PPE FOR EVERY CUSTOMER, THAT MEANS FACE MASKS, GLOVES, AND CLEAR PLASTIC CAPES.” 76

ITALY// GRAFFITI HAIR SALON. When the coronavirus first began to spread, Italy was one of the hardest-hit countries and one of the first to go into a full, country-wide lockdown. After months of closed doors and sacrifice, Italy is on the path to recovery, reopening salon doors mid-May. At Graffiti Hair Salon in Florence, the owner Angelo Carbone was thrilled to reopen the salon on May 18th, with a range of safety measures in place. “When we reopened, we followed the Italian laws regarding safety measures. We removed everything from the walls of the salon and created a minimalist salon, whitewashing the walls,” explains Angelo. “We sanitized the whole salon and even now, every day we clean it thoroughly with disinfectant. For the first month, we could only have one client and two hairdressers in the salon, which was very difficult.” After each service, the station was cleaned, with staff wearing face masks throughout the service and, if necessary, a visor. The salon also adopted a new online booking system, reducing the need for phone calls, and started doing preconsultations with clients via video call to reduce the time they spent in the salon. “We can’t do any shaving on male clients and we can’t do any makeup services as this requires the removal of masks, which is still not allowed. The amount of people we can have in the salon has increased though, which is a big help.” The response so far from clients, despite these changes, has been very positive, and Angelo is of the belief that from every negative, some positives can be taken. If there is one thing Angelo has learned, it is how important time is, and to cherish it.

WHEN WE REOPENED, WE FOLLOWED THE ITALIAN LAWS REGARDING SAFETY MEASURES. WE REMOVED EVERYTHING FROM THE WALLS OF THE SALON AND CREATED A MINIMALIST SALON, WHITEWASHING THE WALLS” 77

NEW ZEALAND// INCO STUDIO.

In New Zealand, the government was quick to lock the country down despite a low number of coronavirus cases. It proved worthwhile, with the restrictions easing seven weeks later, but that doesn’t mean there weren’t any challenges. At INCO Studio in Auckland, which offers not only hair services, but nails and makeup as well, it has been a slow and steady race back to normality. “It was such a foreign experience. Having only been open just over one year, we never would have thought a global pandemic would occur,” says owner Zoe. “We were big on sanitizer anyway but when we reopened, we had multiple sanitizer stations around the studio and all guests had to apply it on arrival. Masks and gloves were available if our guests wanted them. We didn’t have to wear PPE but we did for the first two weeks of reopening.” One of the main focuses at INCO Studio is sustainability, so PPE such as masks caused some concern. Rather than buying disposable masks, they had some made so that they could be swapped out. One day, the staff would wear plain masks, and the other, patterned, with the masks being disinfected between wears. Now, the salon is mostly back to normal, although they remain cautious. The masks are gone, but not all services have been able to resume just yet. “We still haven’t taken any makeup bookings. That’s the only service we weren’t comfortable offering as the guest isn’t able to wear a mask, and we ensure that all nail clients were a mask during their service too. Our guests have been absolutely amazing and extremely supportive.”

AUSTRALIA// EDWARDS AND CO.

I THINK IN REALITY, THIS EXPERIENCE HAS SHOWN WE’RE NOT BULLETPROOF. WE GOT IN A HABIT OF BEING SO BUSY AND PUSHING IMPORTANT PLANS ASIDE.”

When the announcement came that salons would need to limit their appointment times to 30 minutes, Edwards and Co made the decision to close their salons, as it rendered the team incapable of doing their jobs properly. Although this restriction was lifted shortly after, the team decided to remain closed to protect their clients and staff, many of whom had already left the city to go be with their families. “While salons were closed, we were really able to focus on and grow the e-commerce side of the business, which is up 700% from last year. Essentially, we had to pivot the business, and by doing so we were able to somewhat maintain

momentum and keep staff motivated,” explains Billy Daniels. One of the most important things for the team was keeping morale strong, by keeping them informed every step of the way, posting regular video updates and making contact with every single team member to check on their wellbeing, while also creating social media challenges and content to keep staff motivated and create a sense of community. The salons reopened on April 28 with limited bookings and with extra precautions to ensure the health and safety of clients and staff, from taking temperatures, providing hand sanitizer, adhering

ENGLAND// RE:NU HAIR STUDIO.

While hair salons and shops across England reopened their doors on the 4th July, RE:NU Hair Studio, along with many others, were left behind. Based in the Leicester area, where an extended lockdown has been enforced due to a rise in cases, salon owner Leighanne Regan was left wondering when she might get her turn behind the chair. “We were back to not knowing when we might get to open, even though we had already taken all the necessary steps to keep our clients safe,” says Leighanne. “We’ve put protective screens up between stations, we’ve got PPE for all our staff, we’re going to be staggering appointments, but we are also considering the wellbeing of our clients as well.” To create a more calming environment for clients, Leighanne and the team will be playing meditation music in the salon, because although the client’s physical health and safety is important, mental health shouldn’t be forgotten about. “Generally speaking, the hair salon can be quite busy and one thing that I am really aware of is when we go back, I want our team to be able to focus on what they do best. I don’t want anyone distracted because they are anxious about the health and safety aspect. We’ve been looking really carefully at the things that we can control, we’ve got positive quotes on the walls, healing crystals in the salon, and I’ve put some of my team on CBT training. That’s kind of our vibe anyway, we’ve always been about positivity

ONE OF THE BIGGEST TALKING POINTS FOR US GOING BACK IS THAT WE ARE MAKING THE DECISION TO INCREASE OUR PRICES. WE HAD VERY PERSONAL CONVERSATIONS WITH ALL OF OUR CLIENTS, WE’VE BEEN SO CONSCIOUS TO BE REALLY TRANSPARENT WITH THEM.”

to social distancing, regularly disinfecting hightouch areas, increasing deep-cleaning of the salon and going cashless until further notice. “Obviously these measures take a toll on the team, however everyone has risen to the challenge, going above and beyond to keep clients feeling safe. As we flatten the curve here in Australia, restrictions are starting to relax, so I am confident that if we continue to uphold our safety measures and work together with the government, we will go back to normal soon.” For any clients that have not felt comfortable coming back into the salon, the team launched their own range of prescriptive hair maintenance

WHILE SALONS WERE CLOSED, WE WERE REALLY ABLE TO FOCUS ON AND GROW THE E-COMMERCE SIDE OF THE BUSINESS, WHICH IS UP 700% FROM LAST YEAR.” 79

and making people feel good, so it’s working out how we can do that anyway while also introducing all these new safety measures.” One of those measures has been introducing client bags, somewhere they can put all of their belongings without anyone else in the salon having to handle them, to prevent cross-contamination. When clients come in, their bag will include a fresh towel and gown for them, and they can place any personal items in that bag until their appointment ends, then the bags are put straight into the washing machine. “One of the biggest talking points for us going back is that we are making the decision to increase our prices. We had very personal conversations with all of our clients, we’ve been so conscious to be really transparent with them and give them plenty of options so that they are prepared and they understand why the prices are going up. We know that everyone is facing uncertainty, so we’ve introduced finance options as well so that clients can still benefit from our services but they can spread the cost.” While it would be easy for Leighanne and the team to be disheartened by the extended lockdown, in some ways it has been an advantage. They have been able to see other salons across the UK in action, see what measures work, which don’t work, and spend that extra time reassuring clients, preparing them for what is to come. The future is unknown, but at RE:NU Hair Studio, they are keeping positive.

kits and at home color touch-up kits, custom packed to suit each clients’ needs. The color kit includes everything clients need including brushes, bowls and gloves. “I think the hardest part of this experience was letting my staff know we would be closing our doors. I have poured my heart and soul into this business and my staff, so breaking that news to them was probably the hardest thing I’ve ever done. I am so lucky to have an amazing team and thankfully when we were able to reopen, everyone’s job was waiting for them.”

GOING TO GREAT LENGTHS AS EXCITED AS HAIR, NAIL AND BEAUTY STYLISTS WERE TO RETURN TO THE SHOP, THERE IS ONE OBSTACLE WE ALL HAD TO OVERCOME FIRST: THE POSTLOCKDOWN LOOKS. Whether it was a home haircut, a bad box-dye or damaged and neglected nails, we all had fixeruppers to face! Here, stylists share their hints, tips and advice for fixing those diy disasters!

LOCK(S) DOWN 81

CELEBRATE YOUR STYLE.

AMMON CARVER// ULTA BEAUTY CHIEF ARTISTIC DIRECTOR & L’ANZA CREATIVE DIRECTOR. Here in the States it’s been a real yo-yo effect, with hot spots emerging and lockdown restrictions being put back in place, so it’s certainly been a difficult time for my clients and for me. I only work behind the chair two or three days a week, so it’s been easier for me to adapt my schedule and my sanitation routine. Working at Ulta Beauty, we simply cannot take risks, so the amount of precautions we’ve taken and adherence to sanitation is at the highest possible level. I was always taught to be really conscientious about sanitation anyway, so it feels good to be making sure that we’re taking all those steps – we should already be doing most of them anyway, so it should help people pay more attention to how cleanly they are working. The hardest part is learning to have that engagement with your client on a different level. My clients are my friends, I know them and would usually give them a hug, so it’s weird to be robbed of that interaction. It feels less personal, but we’re adapting to the change and I don’t think this will be forever, I’m grateful to be part of an organization that has been able to weather the storm. I’ve been quite lucky with my clients – I think they are a little afraid of me so they tend not to touch their hair until I can! I’ve been very open with them and I said if any of them were concerned about re-growth and greys coming in to call me and I coached them through the process. By having those conversations and letting my clients know I’m at the end of the phone if they need help, I’ve avoided any catastrophic home haircuts or colors. I make a plan with them and I will send them what they need, but what I told most of them to do was see this has hair recovery or rehab – to let their hair rest. This is the time for them to embrace what they have and be okay with what their hair is naturally. I want my clients to celebrate and work with their own hair. Look at the grey hair as something that you’ve earned over the course of your life – maybe each one represents something you have gone through. It makes it all the more exciting when they get back in the chair as well because they want everything. They want highlights, ombre, balayage... they want all the services they have been missing, and that’s great for us as stylists because it increases your ticket, and it’s fun when your clients are so keen to experiment. The key for me was maintaining contact with my clients and communicating honestly with them. If they can’t get to the salon yet, encourage them to embrace and experiment with what they have, but be ready for them to want a change when they are back in your chair.

WORKING AT ULTA BEAUTY, WE SIMPLY CANNOT TAKE RISKS, SO THE AMOUNT OF PRECAUTIONS WE’VE TAKEN AND ADHERENCE TO SANITATION IS AT THE HIGHEST POSSIBLE LEVEL.” 82

NAILING IT

JULIE KAY// NYC NAIL ARTIST.

NAILS, LIKE HAIR, CAN BE CONDITIONED AND PARTIALLY REPAIRED AS THEY GROW OUT. THERE ARE TWO THINGS THAT I LIKE TO RECOMMEND, THE FIRST IS CND’S RESCUERXX DAILY KERATIN TREATMENT, AND FAMOUS NAMES’ IBX SYSTEM, AND YES, NAILS GROW OUT.”

I work exclusively on set and with private clients, so it’s been very different to working in a salon. I had a photoshoot last week, and the protocols on set are completely different now, and very strict. We even had two COVID-compliance officers there. We all had to have our temperatures taken three times throughout the day, the entire studio was one-way with arrows on the floor, we had to wear masks and face shields, and I worked behind a screen. My table was disinfected every time a different model sat down, and the three-stall bathroom had become one-person-at-a-time, with the second officer disinfecting it after every use. It sounds like a lot, but we do what we have to do to prevent another outbreak – and it’s the reason New York City has some of the lowest COVID cases in the country, despite a population of 8.5 million! I also started using Lucas-Cide Salon and Spa disinfectant on my tools, surfaces and towels. I knew that during quarantine, a lot of people could end up damaging their nails either through poor home manicures or by improperly removing nail enhancements. To combat this, at the beginning of lockdown, I created and filmed a video on how to remove your nail enhancements with no damage and thankfully, all my clients took my advice and watched it, so I didn’t have any nails to come back to! Nails, like hair, can be conditioned and partially repaired as they grow out. There are two things that I like to recommend, the first is CND’s RescueRXx Daily Keratin Treatment, and Famous Names’ IBX System, and yes, nails grow out,

they each take a few to several treatments based on how much damage was done. All nails grow differently, but it can take months to get them healthy again. That’s why I can’t recommend taking off your nail enhancements properly enough! The video of Jada Pinkett taking her nails off at home a few months ago was really hard to watch because she caused damage that will take four months to grow out – I do NOT recommend using nippers or dental floss to remove them, ever! As well as my own work, I also run Masterclass Nails Academy. I teach at hotels, resorts and schools around the world, I don’t have a brick-andmortar place, so, you can say it’s been significantly impacted by the pandemic! I was supposed to be teaching in Bali in May and Jamaica in July, but sadly, both trips had to be postponed. However, I started an online book club with people that purchase my new nail art design book, so that’s been a way to stay in touch and educate a new group of students while I wait to travel again, and inspire them to create at the same time. My book is different because it takes the nail art design process to the next level by breaking down the creative process further and showing the steps more in-depth. It’s one-part educational guide, one-part workbook. I looked to my educational background and asked, what would one of my students want to use? What would help nail art lovers the most? My book further guides you in your creation process.

LIFE IN COLOR.

KATY SAMUELS// PULP RIOT COLORIST.

USING QUALITY COLOR IS EQUALLY IMPORTANT. I USE PULP RIOT AND THEY HAVE A WHOLE HOST OF ONLINE COLOR TUTORIALS THAT ARE SHORT ENOUGH TO WATCH WHILE YOUR CLIENT IS PROCESSING.” It has been such a surreal experience being back in the salon with all of the new protocols! It feels very clinical. It has definitely been a learning curve and requires lots of extra time, but it has been so great getting to see all of my guests again – I missed them! The bright side to all of this is the world is in this together so our guests have been very understanding and patient with all of the changes we’ve had to endure. And of course, there’s all those quarantine colors. I’ve had to correct a handful of them and actually, as I write this, I have a client processing who tried to lighten her level 2 regrowth on her own every month we were quarantined. Colorists are getting really comfortable with correcting bands postquarantine, let’s just say that! Every head is a different journey though. Sometimes it’s a quick fix such as applying a gloss, sometimes it’s an all-day process that entails multiple sessions of lightening that will need to be addressed monthly. It all depends on the damage done and the end goal. You have to find the happy medium between the two, while being honest with your guest about the process and what the end result is going to be, because often there is an undesired transition phase that everyone has to live through to get to the good stuff.

Thie first step is to always slow down and take a breath. It can be very overwhelming but once you’ve taken a second to really think about what you’re doing, you can create your own step-bystep guide. Find your target areas and map it out for yourself. Write it down if you have to! If you take the time to pull together a roadmap to the finish line, it will take the anxiety out of the appointment. Planning is key. Using quality color is equally important. I use Pulp Riot and they have a whole host of online color tutorials that are short enough to watch while your client is processing. Plus, there are lots of other Pulp Riot artists that showcase education on their Instagram pages if you need help or inspiration. We are an open book, if anybody were to have any hair questions, we’re always happy to help. Funnily enough, I’ve actually had quite a few people come to me post-lockdown who are keen to branch out and are more willing to try something new, so now is a great time to experiment and get creative. As a Vivid specialist, I am welcoming the opportunity with open arms! It’s fun to see some of my more conservative guests be so bold after quarantine, but I guess isolation will do that to you! One of my long-time bayalage guests went full pink last week – I love it!

EMBRACING TEXTURE.

DANA HODGES CASCHETTA// EUFORA INTERNATIONAL TRAINER.

THE LENGTHINESS OF LOCKDOWN HAS ALLOWED CLIENTS TO GET PAST THE AWKWARD PHASE OF GROWING OUT A HAIRCUT, THIS IN TURN ENCOURAGES THEM TO KEEP THEIR HAIR LONGER.”

It has been really refreshing to have a blank canvas with options. With clients having that time to be able to grow their hair, we have the opportunity to create something brand new. As men’s hair gets longer, their true texture is revealed – I see a lot of guys embracing their natural texture in these new, longer looks. The lengthiness of lockdown has allowed clients to get past the awkward phase of growing out a haircut, this in turn encourages them to keep their hair longer because they are given a rare opportunity to see what their hair could be like. I am a big believer in embracing natural texture and shape. For textured hair I see large geometric shapes, flat tops and cropped bowls. Also, Teddy boy and retro mullets with natural movement, which have been making a comeback for quite some time. I think overall as barbers and stylists, we shape the exterior but continue to keep movement in the interior – that makes a beautiful marriage of effortless and structure.

I have always supported the androgynous trend in both men’s and women’s hair over the last year or so, and I think lockdown has accelerated the path to longer men’s hair that we were already on. The key to a great longer look on men is proper styling and product usage. It’s more about maintaining with longer hair. I recommend to tame unruly hair with proper styling tools like boar hair brushes, and frizz controlling products – a favorite of mine is Eufora Hero’s Grooming Cream. I also say embrace with grace. Cowlicks, texture and shape are all really beautiful when they are styled naturally and not forced. For me, during lockdown, I didn’t come up with the newest technique, I didn’t discover a new way to cut hair, instead I spent my time evolving as an artist as a whole. I think that a lot of barbers and hairdressers felt like they should have utilized their time improving their craft. However, spending time personally, creatively and spiritually in any way will contribute to your growth as an artist, in my opinion!

JUST WORK WITH WHAT YOU’VE GOT...

BALDY// ANDIS EUROPEAN LEAD EDUCATOR & MVRCK EDUCATOR.

A TEXTURED LOOK CAN HIDE A MULTITUDE OF SINS, AS LONG AS THERE ISN’T A CHUNK CUT OUT DOWN TO THE SCALP, MOST THINGS ARE GENERALLY FIXABLE. From dodgy fades to buzz cuts, we all know the bad home haircuts are on the way. So, Andis European Lead & MVRCK Educator Baldy shares his tips and tricks on how to manage client expectations and fix those lockdown nightmares... How we go about fixing bad haircuts largely depends on the clients’ needs. If they are keen to go shorter on their hair, it’s an easy enough fix. Simply putting in a quality fade will cover up the work of their partners, parents or whoever is responsible. The other way round it is, if someone has hacked about on top, you can suggest something textured. A textured look can hide a multitude of sins, as long as there isn’t a chunk cut out down to the scalp, most things are generally fixable. Something choppy that is styled dry using the MVRCK Grooming Spray and Dry Paste will give you an on-trend look that will cover issues on top. I always use my Andis Master Cordless and the Andis US Pro Cordless because they are so easy to pick up and importantly, clean down. They are my go-to clippers for shorter cuts and they are powerful, which I need right now given how busy we are! Always have a trimmer handy, for me I use the Andis Slimline Pro. I like to have two of each clipper at my station so that I can be using one while the other one is charging. It means I can disinfect the second clipper and keep them in a safe space where there won’t be any issues with contamination. Any longer styles are easily remedied because you can simply go a little bit shorter – what you can’t

do is grow the hair back. If you can take it shorter, whether that’s an inch, a half-inch, or going all the way to a skin fade, it will remove the problem. It’s just a case of making your client feeling at ease when you go about making those changes. You should be suggesting new or different styles, now is a great time for it, so talk to your client and see what they are willing to try. Sometimes you will get a client that has a bad haircut and even though they know the cut is bad, they say they don’t want to lose too much of their hair. Unfortunately, it is your job as the barber to explain to them that in order to fix the cut and get them back to normal, there will be an initial loss. It might take two or three cuts for the hair to grow back to where they want it, so in the meantime, give them a style that they can work with and that looks good, and explain to them what and why you are doing it. Another issue that is going to come up is beards. From what I gather, we might not be able to offer beard trims when we first go back to work. So, the best way around that is to try and guide your client on how to trim their beard at home. There are plenty of beard and skin products that they can use, such as the MVRCK Skin + Beard Lotion, to help keep it healthy so that when beard trims can resume, their beard is in the best possible condition. As barbers, it is part of our job to educate our clients on the products available to them and why it will not only keep their beard more manageable, but it will help us when we get back to normal.

ANDIS CORDLESS ENVY LI ANDIS NATION FADE CLIPPER Following the admired Andis Nation Limited Edition clipper released a few years ago, Andis has launched another colorway featuring another unique design. Ideal for executing tapers and fades, its blade adjusts from 000 to 1 via a convenient side adjustment lever and is lightweight for easy handling.

$78.33// andis.com

StepbyStep

The New Natural Step 01. With your Andis MasterÂŽ Cordless clipper, remove bulk using the clipper-over-comb technique.

Step 02. Establish your guideline with a Master dual magnet #3 attachment comb.Â

Sid Sottung

The Tools.

Step 03.

Step 04.

Cut the hair using a c-stroke motion with the #1.5 attachment comb – this decreases the distance to the guideline to work with the head shape better.

Apply the #0 attachment comb, continuing the same c-stroke motion to blend. The 1.5mm size is vital – the smoothness of the design creates a flawless blend.

Step 05.

Step 06.

Refine the blend with a finishing clipper-over-comb technique.

Complete the haircut with an Andis Cordless T-Outliner® trimmer for a superb, sharp finish.

Images// Dan Lord.

BLACK LIVES MATTER KENNY DUNCAN

THE WORLD IS IN PROTEST AS PEOPLE ARE CHANT“BLACK LIVES MATTER!” THE OUTRAGE IS UNDERLINED BY A SERIES OF UNJUSTIFIED MURDERS WITH THE MOST WELL-KNOWN BEING THE PUBLIC STRANGULATION OF 46-YEAR-OLD, BLACK AMERICAN GEORGE FLOYD. The words “Black Lives Matter” are now echoing across the world and prompting major conflict because there are existing groups of people who don’t agree that black lives actually matter; but they do. Capitalists, designers of financial systems, work to perpetuate this dehumanizing narrative by supporting slave labor. American opportunity inequality began with slavery and continues today. The key indicators of this inequality are visible in the percentages of Black Americans within the prison population, wealth gaps, unequal education, and in the unequal access to quality and fair healthcare. There is a clear connection between American slavery and American capitalism and we can view cotton production and distribution as the very first case study to justify this argument. By 1860, 1.8 million of the 3.2 million slaves grew and picked cotton for fifteen slave states. They produced over two billion pounds of cotton which made up two-thirds of the global supply. Were these people compensated or granted the freedom to partake in the rewards of their yield? Modern day slavery has had a systemic facelift. It currently yields billions of dollars, backed by the 13th Amendment, from the cheap labor of prisoners. Black Americans are minorities in American society yet the majority in American prisons. If Black Lives matter to capitalists, what exactly is being done to change these facts? We are told black lives matter; but we can’t hide our disappointment when we notice the allocation of educational funding. The American

government invests more money per student in areas where funding isn’t needed, while investing less money per student in areas where funding is dire. This results in a wide education gap. It’s believed that higher education diminishes the prison population, yet it remains that overpopulated areas with limited resources have schools that are underfunded. The phrase “school to prison pipeline” derived from harsher punishments given to black students versus white students, resulting in increased odds of incarceration by three times. Therefore, the statistics prove that inequality in education and punishments lead to an increased prison population of Black Americans. Since the quality of your education affects your earning potential, the effects of underfunding schools fit the narrative of systematic oppression—racism. Most recently the American government proved that they could distribute funds to protect the country’s economy in response to Covid-19. How could funds can be found to battle Covid-19, but not to fund a struggling school system? The achievement gap between Black Americans and other races is substantial. On average Black Americans score lower on tests and receive lower grades compared to Asians, Caucasians, & Hispanics. Poor school performance affects the allocation of school funding while hindering a vast range of opportunities for its students. Research by McKinsey & Company in 2009, have found that,“the persistence of the educational

achievement gap imposes on the United States the economic equivalent of a permanent national recession”. As a licensed Pennsylvania barber and business owner, I was greatly affected by the state’s shutdown in response to high reported cases of COVID-19. Of course, the uncertainty of my situation was shared with ample individuals in the service and non-essential retail areas. Faced with economic scarcity, I had to take action using my influence not only as a business owner and barber but also as the US Lead Educator for Andis Clipper Company and the Global Ambassador for Luster Scurl to make a difference. Being that I have close relationships with several barbershop owners in Pennsylvania, we collectively formed a consortium—aiming for collaborative action toward progress. Jointly, we formed The Urban Barber Alliance; we have a great desire to slow the spread of COVID-19 within our communities and businesses. A few key group members are Tyrik Jackson, Darryl Thomas, Dominic Muniz, and P. Michael Boone. We band together to win back the trust of our customers – through comprising guidelines, we vow to work and perform services safely and efficiently. We also demanded concessions accrued during our mandatory shutdown. I wish Black lives mattered to the lawmakers who listen to the lobbyists for known companies who maximize profits from cheap prison labor.

“THE GOAL IS TO CREATE HABITS OF READING MORE, TO INCREASE COMPREHENSION AND COMMUNICATION SKILLS WHICH LEAD TO BETTER OPPORTUNITIES IN ALL ASPECTS OF LIFE.”

THE IMPORTANCE OF BARBERSHOPS IN BLACK AMERICAN NEIGHBORHOODS IS IMMEASURABLE. OUR FIGHT TO KEEP BARBERSHOPS OPEN AND USEFUL TO UNDERSERVED COMMUNITIES SIGNIFIES OUR BELIEF THAT BLACK LIVES MATTER.”

Their motive for the suffering of Black Americans is clearly because profits are valued more than lives. I identify as Black American despite my blend of African, Irish and Indian lineages. I am an entrepreneur with barbering at my core and my colleagues and clients are primarily Black Americans—therefore, I fight for equality. Black young men spend more time in barbershops than they do in libraries (the reason why is a separate issue). Therefore, the barbershop is used as a place to inspire young men to read and achieve more than the opportunities most often presented. Subsequently, My Brother’s Keeper initiative was formed and it provides collective involvement in the #readwhereyouare movement. The goal is to create habits of reading more, to increase comprehension and communication skills which lead to better opportunities in all aspects of life. I am also the president of the nonprofit Barbers Who Care Inc. BWC Inc. derived from the desire to meet the grooming needs of young men in underserved communities for free— helping to raise their self-esteem. Barbers Who Care Inc. has recently evolved to include the Michael Hall Adopt A Family program to additionally help meet community educational needs. These programs collectively provide yearlong scholarships for a limited number of deserving families. The importance of barbershops in Black American neighborhoods is immeasurable. Our fight to keep barbershops open and useful to underserved communities signifies our belief that Black Lives Matter.

g s n e i t c a a e p r C FE S A S AT CA MER A R EA DY K UTZ , THE MOST IMPORTA NT THING FOR OW N ER K H A IS TH AT EV E NE RYON E F EEL S SA F E A N D W ELCOME, R EGA R DLES S OF R ACE, GEN DER OR SEX UA L OR IE NTATION.

CAMERA READY KUTZ, IN A BARBERSHOP C. IS GEARED TOWARDS BUT N OT TO THE LGBTQIA+ EXCLUSIVE COMMUNIT Y

Over the ye ars, K hane has built a LGBTQI A+ co hub for the mmunity, th local ey tell us w important to hy it was them... W hile I was store manag er for a maj company, I or coffee began hear ing stor ies in the LGBT from my fr ie QI A+ comm nds unity about treatment at their horr ib barbershop le s. They wer serv ice, talk e being refu ed about w sed hi le in the chair, receiv ing th not e cut they as ke d for, being su to homopho bjected bic hate spee ch and just the environm feeling that ent did not welcome th One day, I ju em. st decided to look up barb to see if I co er schools uld attend any while m job. I gradua aintaining ted Novembe my r of 2007 an cutting ever d Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been since. I star te d out just w help out my anting to fr iends but word star te like w ildfire. d spreading I love busine ss so I was I marketed in the gam myself ever e, ywhere.

I GOT THE TERM ‘BRAVE SPACE’ FROM A YOUNG LADY WHO SHARED A POEM WITH ME ONE DAY ABOUT HOW IT’S REALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO MAKE A SPACE ‘SAFE’ DUE TO THE DIFFERENT TRIGGERS PEOPLE HAVE. THAT POEM REALLY RESONATED WITH ME BECAUSE I HAD BEEN THINKING THE SAME IN REGARDS TO THE SHOP.

I was, and still am, very outspoken about my views on the barbershop environment, owner responsibility and barber accountability. I want to change the barber industry. I tell people all the time: we are in the service business. If you go to a coffee shop and ask for a latte, they can’t give you a black coffee because that’s what they feel you should drink. Lots of NYC cab drivers used to refuse to take people to certain neighborhoods – they can’t do that anymore. Why are barbers still allowed to get away with doing much the same? Who I sleep with has absolutely nothing to do with you doing my fade – the service that I’m paying you to do. Camera Ready Kutz, Inc. is a barbershop geared towards but not exclusive to the LGBTQIA+ community. We provide a Brave Space where people of all sexual orientations and gender expressions can comfortably get groomed without worrying about being refused service, having to hear derogatory comments or feel as though they have to act in an ‘acceptable’ manner for the sake of personal safety. I got the term ‘Brave Space’ from a young lady who shared a poem with me one day about how it’s really impossible to make a space ‘safe’ due to the different triggers people have. That poem really resonated with me because I had been thinking the same in regards to the shop. There have been times when clients felt triggered by things out of our control or that we really shouldn’t have to be responsible for. So, yes... we are a safe space for people in regards to being respected and not being refused service, but we are more over a space where people can be their full selves, gain confidence, speak freely, experiment with themselves, grow, tackle their fears... be BRAVE. Being a full card-carrying member of the LGBTQIA+ community, people naturally gravitated towards me, and all advertising and marketing clearly stated the shop was an LGBT Safe Space. I participated in events and made sure to constantly talk about my goals for my shop, my passion and to make sure people felt comfortable. There is more to it than saying you’re going to do something though; you also have to walk the talk. When people come in, they are greeted, their haircut choices are not ignored, we ask what pronoun they refer, and let them know they can talk openly about anything. Ultimately, even without the trimmings of a gay flag, rainbow colors or writing this

is an LGBTQIA+ safe space, the goal is for our actions to speak loudest. Every few months, we raise funds for individuals with various needs such as top surgery, help with rent, business ideas, paying bills, an artistic project, help with kids, all sorts. You can donate at the shop during your appointment or on our website by clicking ‘Donate Today’. We chose to collect for individuals because we want to make a direct difference. We also know that sometimes you just need a break, a hand, a windfall, a little cash to get you over a hump without worrying about paying it back. I came up with the idea after years of trying to figure out how I could best give back to my community. I couldn’t find any organizations I fully trusted and also felt like on my own I would not be able to make a difference on the scale I imagined in my head. Finally, it came to me while I was thinking about people who have helped me, who didn’t know me well but believed in my vision for my business. I may not be able to give on a larger scale myself, but if I enlisted the help of others who knows how much I could give back. So now we collect donations from clients and anyone else who wants to contribute and give it to a specific person or a group of people to help them with the everyday challenges of life. I named it the Morris, Harris, Dacey, Coleman fund to honor the people who helped me. Another thing we do every year is give away 200 backpacks filled with school supplies to kids in shelters around Brooklyn and in our direct area. We do reduced-priced or free cuts for homeless LGBT youths and LGBT adults struggling with their mental health. I believe barber and beauty schools need to add an element to their courses on teaching sensitivity. I refuse to call it tolerance because LGBT folks are not to be ‘tolerated, we are not a bother, we just want to live in the world without having to justify our preferences. Owners of shops should be penalized if they or their barbers discriminate against certain genders or sexual orientations. Barbers, stylists and shop owners need to be willing to be open. Otherwise, the only way to make sure they are inclusive is to make it a mandated standard like other service industries. For those willing to be open, there are several things you can do, from putting up a Safe Sapace sign, adding a Pride flag sticker to their window, mention your inclusivity on your website or social media and then walk the talk. Be inviting, be kind, be respectful, be mindful of people’s differences. That’s all it takes.

NOW MORE THAN EVER IN THIS POST-PANDEMIC WORLD, WELLNESS AND WELL-BEING ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. HAIR COLORIST AND MASTER BARBER DAVID CONNOR SHARES HOW HE ENSURES THE FOCUS OF HIS SALON IS NOT JUST ON QUALITY SERVICES, BUT ON WELLNESS.

A focus on WELLNESS

There are seven areas of wellness that most people feel. They include spiritual, physical, emotional, career, intellectual, environmental and social. As a professional hairstylist, I focus on seeking which area of wellness is most important to the guest. All of my career I have focused on supporting my guest in their happiness and the way they feel. Understanding wellness has aided me in offering a sense of happiness in our salon and their experience. In a casual salon or barbershop environment, it feels more comfortable to speak about things and share things that make us happy. Rather than my guest sharing their problems with me, I tend to draw out the things that make them happy and the things that stimulate them. They leave Anti-Gravity salon feeling well. I recommend stylists and barbers focus on finding the positive things in their guest lives. Stylists and barbers have to realize how close physically they are with their clients. There’s a lot of power in their touch, so it is important to monitor our self ‘vibes’ or vibration before we see the guest. I personally do a reset before seeing each guest. Taking a moment to breathe, drink water, look out the window, and focus on the outcome of the clients’ wellbeing before beginning the service. All of our stations at Anti-Gravity are at least 4-8 feet apart. Our stylists focus on the client’s wellness and our salon is a safe place for our guest to openly talk about any issue. However, we do not entertain or engage in personal politics or religious matters. I think now, men are more willing to share their feelings in the salon because they can let their guard down. We first drape the client and make them feel like everyone else in the salon, which is key. Do you ever notice the body language of any guest being shampooed without a drape? It’s not the same.

Gentlemen can express themselves without having to feel macho or manly in a barbershop environment full of men. However, I know of many barbershops where men can fully express themselves and talk about the things that make them happy. The best thing about being back at work has been sharing a sense of wellness not only with our team but our guests. I can tell that everyone’s health mentally is better now that we are in the salon and this brings an unexplainable joy. Since re-opening, our guests have been so happy to have a sense of schedule and having their hair done reignites their confidence and purpose. The hardest thing about being back in the salon is wearing the mask and losing time with family. To balance this, I’ve constantly been readjusting my schedule to fit my new personal and business goals. COVID-19 has, in that way, been a benefit. As a colorist, I have seen quite a few bad home color jobs too. I try not to make the guest feel shame about it and insert a sense of understanding. Then we explain the process that it will take to fix these kinds of mistakes. Explaining that it may take more than one visit to correct it is important and it ties back in to the clients’ wellbeing. Everyone has been extremely understanding, and I believe that is because WE have been understanding. To say the least about it, I leave you with this: there were so many silver linings in the experience of our shut down, and we are blessed to have made it to this point. Show kindness, show understanding, and focus on wellness.

Stylists and barbers have to realize how close physically they are with their clients. There’s a lot of power in their touch, so it is important to monitor our self ‘vibes’ or vibration before we see the guest.” 97

Words// Ivan Zoot.

BE A HEALTHY HAIRCUTTER

YOU CAN’T TAKE CARE OF THEM IF YOU DON’T TAKE CARE OF YOU. STAYING HEALTHY, LONG-TERM, BEHIND THE CHAIR REQUIRES A STRATEGY AND APPROACH TO A HAIRCUTTER’S PHYSICAL, MENTAL AND FINANCIAL WELLNESS. Here are my top tips for getting and staying healthy behind the chair.

Specialize – Saying no to work you do not enjoy is both a mental health win and a financial gain. Hone in on things you can rock out on and enjoy. Charge more for things for which you are considered an expert. Generalists are quickly

Brown bag your lunch – This is both a dietary tip and a finance strategy. You will eat better and spend less when you bring your lunch. You will make better food choices and will slash your day-to-day food costs.

irrelevant within a skilled trade. Know your numbers – Daily tracking of the basic statistics of your business

Get loose - Dynamic stretching in the form of warm-up exercises will loosen you up and get you moving comfortably before the day starts. Mid-morning and mid-afternoon stretch breaks for static exercises will keep you loose and pain free for years.

keeps you in touch with your progress and on top of your business. To know your

Move more – Thirty minutes of cardio exercise at least five times per week will help to manage weight and positively impact any number of wellness metrics from blood pressure to cholesterol.

mind sharp. The money you will save with a refillable water bottle can level up

numbers is to grow your numbers. That wish gets measured gets improved. Treat your work like a workout – Proper hydration will keep you healthy. Drink plenty of water throughout the day to keep your body hydrated and your your retirement plan, too. Raise your haircut price – The fastest and easiest way to earn more is to

Push yourself – Body weight exercises will help to make you “haircut strong”. Push-ups, squats, burpees and other simple exercises will help you move freely and comfortable. No gym membership or equipment is needed (another moneysaver, too.)

charge more. The best way to charge more is to do more and give more. Upgrade your client experience to upgrade your entire life. You can do a little bit of good with a little bit of money. Imagine how much good you can do with a lot.

Save more – Start to ramp up your daily and weekly savings efforts. Small money adds up BIG when simple savings strategies like paying yourself first and divvying your tips are implemented.

These are ten basic health and wellness tips that anyone can implement

Say NO! - Say no to squeezing haircuts in where they do not fit. Say no to working through lunch. Say NO! to things that will drain your energy.

For help implementing a healthy haircutter lifestyle join Ivan’s online

immediately. They carry zero cost and can bring immediate, positive returns to your efforts.

community at patreon.com/ivanzoot.

Self CARE with AILEEN NUNEZ.

WE CARE SO MUCH ABOUT OTHERS THAT AT TIMES OUR SELF-CARE IS FORGOTTEN. LET’S TALK ABOUT WAYS WE CAN TAKE CARE OF OURSELVES. The first thing we need to do is update our mindset. We need to believe that our wellbeing is important. This means taking the time to do something for yourself every day. You work so hard giving to others, why not celebrate yourself and give yourself a token of appreciation to set the day off right? Think about the things that bring joy to you that not only help you in your present, but in the future.

PHYSICAL HEALTH Nourish your body with fitness and eating well. A great example in our industry is Danny Amorim (@successaddict), he nourishes his body with consistency. I enjoy watching his path on Instagram as he shares with his audience everything from meal prep, aligning your diet to a healthy mindset, to his gym journey showing the importance of self-care. I personally enjoy going for walks first thing in the morning. Walking hits all three categories: physical, mental, and spiritual. According to health professionals, walking promotes stronger bones, improved balance, and flexibility. In addition, increased cardio reduces the risk of heart disease and improved management of blood pressure, cholesterol, etc. Consistency in physical activity helps you in the present and long-term. MENTAL HEALTH Gain knowledge first thing in the morning by feeding your mind with valuable information through a TedTalk or your favorite information platform, choosing a topic that you are interested in learning more about. I started implementing this best practice from Great Clips Inc Director of Education, Sue Aderhold (@sueaderhold). During a meeting, she discussed the benefits of starting off your week with a TedTalk. I love the fact that you receive a dose of knowledge and motivation at the same time. Free knowledge or low-cost education is available to all of us. My favorite places to look for mental stimulation are from YouTube, LinkedIn Learning, or from industry vendors on social media. It is a great time to learn about infection control best practices to be implemented as well. Our industry has always needed to follow sanitation and disinfection guidelines, but it doesn’t hurt to review and learn new best practices that will help yourself and customers feel safe. Take a look at what learning materials are available online.

SPIRITUAL HEALTH Connect with your inner chi. Chi is energy that flows within us and around us. The Law of Attraction is real. If you think positive, positive things will happen. An important aspect that a person can forget when implementing positive vibes is believing that you deserve positive things in your life. You can stop a lot of the unwanted negativity in your life by believing you can break that pattern. In addition, you can influence others by being the example with YOUR energy. Your energy introduces you before you speak. There are things that you can do to exercise a good spirit and positive vibes. To help maintain your good spirit, meditate and implement positive affirmations. Meditation helps reduce stress, increases calm and focus, and aids in the exercise of being present, consistently. We live in a world that wants us to conduct multiple activities at the same time. Take the time to reset a couple times a day to ensure you have the right energy activated. For example, do you have a hard time sitting still or worry often? Sitting in silence in a quiet space by yourself and practicing a quiet mind can help you get in the right mindset for the day. Start off with 20 minutes and progress up to 60 minutes. Affirmations help remind a person how amazing they are or influence who they can become. They encourage us to believe things about ourselves and what we want our world to be like. When you feel negative towards a situation, go towards light and love by thinking positive thoughts that will align you with positive behaviors. Positive behaviors will help you influence achieving whatever goal you have set for the greater good. When you do things for yourself, it makes it easier to do for others because you know how to do it and how it feels. Please remember YOU. You do so much for the industry. Remember to gift yourself time to appreciate your body, mind, and spirit.

OUR INDUSTRY IS LIKE NO OTHER. THE VIBES FELT ARE LIKE HOW YOU FEEL WITH A SISTER OR BROTHER. I AM SO PROUD OF WHAT WE REPRESENT. PASSIONATE AND PROUD IS HOW WE PRESENT. WE CARE ABOUT HOW PEOPLE FEEL. THE LOVE THAT WE HAVE FOR OUR INDUSTRY IS SO REAL. UNITED WE STAND IN THIS WORLD THAT WE LIVE. OUR TRANSLATION FOR THE BEAUTY WE SEE IS WHAT WE GIVE.” This poem that I wrote for the industry explains the care that we share for others. We know what it takes so why not apply these best practices to ourselves. We care so much about others that at times our self-care is forgotten. Let’s talk about ways we can take care of ourselves, the industry professional. The first thing we need to do is update our mindset, how we think and feel about things in general.

IT MAY BE CLICHÉ, BUT IT’S TRUE. IN THE EARLY MONTHS OF 2020, WHO KNEW OUR DARKEST HOURS WERE AROUND THE CORNER WITH ARMS OPEN WIDE, OFFERING UP ALL SORTS OF FEELINGS.

You know, unable to make a living, deprived of seeing your friends and family, watching the economy tank, witnessing a global pandemic, those kinds of fun feelings. But before I talk about all of the glorious downfalls we as a whole have been subjected to this year so far, let’s rewind a bit... Hair has been a part of my life for as long as I can remember. My mother began her hairstyling career in 1978

IT’S ALWAYS DARKEST BEFORE THE DAWN

and opened her own salon in the mid ‘80s. I grew up in her salon sweeping hair, folding towels, and helping other stylists. I always said I was going to be a hairstylist just like my mom, but as a rebellious teenager, that changed. I wanted to be my own person, do my own things, and not follow in anyone else’s footsteps. Despite the rebellion. I couldn’t deny that I was still interested in hair. u

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WITHOUT WORK TO OCCUPY YOUR MIND, YOU ARE FORCED TO SIT THERE WITH YOUR DEMONS, NOT KNOWING WHEN YOU’LL BE BACK DOING WHAT YOU LOVE.”

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Being a tomboy, that’s where my curiosity for men’s cuts and barbering was born. I started experimenting on my friends’ hair, with varying degrees of success, but I always saw it as a hobby. I was fascinated by the classic styles I saw in movies and TV shows like Mad Men, Peaky Blinders and Inglorious Basterds – I loved those heavy pomades and side parts and I was desperate to recreate them. It wasn’t until, after moving to New York City, I stumbled across a barbering school that it all clicked. Within three weeks I was starting my first day at barbering school, acquiring a job in a Brooklyn barbershop not long after I graduated. It was a learning experience, but it made me the barber I am today. It helped me grow and gave me experience working with all kinds of hair. I moved around a lot over those first few years, working in another Brooklyn shop, then moving to Philadelphia and joining the team at Philadelphia Barber Company, where I worked for two years. I really believe that shop is what pushed me to do more with my career. I started building my portfolio and doing YouTube tutorials. It felt good to be a real part of the barbering community. When it started, 2020 looked promising as ever. I had taken the plunge and opened a studio, allowing me to work for myself and truly focus on my passion of creating and styling. I set out in search of the perfect place to represent the way I feel about an industry that’s been restored, and in some ways reinvented, and thus, the Born Free Collective was born. With a single chair, my trusty pup Sonny and a vision, I was ready to take off. I was right in the middle of catching my groove with Born Free. My vision was sharp, my productivity was high, and I felt that I had overcome a lot of emotional tribulations that hindered me in the past. I had finally figured out my formula to personal happiness. I thought, ‘finally, this is what it was all for. This moment right here was worth any struggle I’ve faced in the past’. As someone who’s struggled with anxiety and depression for the last decade or so, this was a huge turning point in my life. I had a reason to get out of bed in the morning, I had something to work towards that shut down the self-doubt and trauma, and validated that I was worthy of excelling in life. The dramatic events in my past felt like they were finally being silenced, and then COVID-19 made its appearance in the US. I remember reading about it, but it never crossed my mind that our whole world would be turned upside down in a matter of weeks. It wasn’t until I saw how Italy was quickly becoming affected that I started to wonder what it looked like for the US. Common sense told me it was only a matter of time before barbershops would have to shut. On Monday March 16th, while I was cutting hair and trying to navigate through my appointment book with as little anxiety as possible, I refreshed the news on my phone every half hour waiting for that announcement. I canceled my remaining clients, sat on my couch in the waiting area and just cried. I knew this was the beginning of a downfall that was completely out of my control. I knew my time during lockdown would be tough. For many of us, barbering gives us a sense of purpose. We wake up in the morning and get to do something creative, and spend our time with those who appreciate it. Waking up to a lockdown didn’t feel like a vacation, it felt like a mental health death sentence. That may sound extreme, but for those

who have already been to hell and back with mental health, it’s a very real statement. Without work to occupy your mind, you are forced to sit with your demons, not knowing when you’ll be back doing what you love. Any issues that were pushed aside by booming business all come to a head because you have no choice but to sit with them and analyze. Not to mention the stress of not earning a living and wondering if you can pay your bills. Every time the lockdown was extended, I kept telling myself, you just have to make it till then, but that end point kept changing. I didn’t know if I would survive financially. I put all of my hardearned savings into Born Free. You can only tell yourself everything is going to be ok for so long, especially when in reality, on the business side, things were not ok. What kept me going was that everyone in our industry was going through the same thing.

We stuck together, we lifted each other up and inspired each other. The ego of being a successful barber has become a bit toxic, and I feel this pandemic has been a reality check. It doesn’t matter how good, successful or experienced a barber is, we are all affected. Maybe our industry needed this. Maybe we all needed something so severe to come and bring us all back together. I know personally, I’ll never take for granted the blessing of having a normal workday, or being in the same room as dozens of barbers, taking a class and learning together. The world and our industry will be weird for a bit, but I hope we can all remember our low points and turn it into motivation to make the most of our days. I hope that we can even appreciate the bad days because at the very least, we get to do what we love and what we’re meant to do. The dawn is definitely coming, but we need to appreciate the darkness in order for it to shine. •

WHAT KEPT ME GOING WAS THAT EVERYONE IN OUR INDUSTRY WAS GOING THROUGH THE SAME THING. WE STUCK TOGETHER, WE LIFT EACH OTHER UP AND INSPIRED EACH OTHER.” 102

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