GLIMPSE SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE
season SUSTAINABLE BRANDS TO FOLLOW ACTIVIST DESIGNERS
FRO M T H E
E X P OS ED
Cover photo : Stéphane Déroussent / All rights reserved © Eurovet. Publisher : Eurovet Editors-in-chief : Angèle Sitbon, Daniela Melo — Graphic design : Nicolas Alanquand
EDITO 3 — Fashion and TRANSPARENCY 5 — ECO-FRIENDLY brands to follow 6-9 — FASHION SPREAD by Glimpse 10-15 — This season’s FAVORITES 16-17 — 3 ACTIVIST Designers 18-19 — View on LINA SCHEYNIUS 20-21 — THE UNDERPINNINGS OF PROTEST The exhibition by Interfilière Paris 22 — ECO SHOPS 23
We want to bring greater meaning to our profession and highlight ethical and ecological initiatives that are leading the way toward a new form of consumption. Far from tired, old stereotypes, we believe in a multifaceted, real woman who feels free. The show’s product offer will be inclusive. Fabrics and collections are evolving toward more a more sustainable type of fashion that remains desirable, for lingerie focused on uniqueness and diversity, perfect for all kinds of personalities. We’re taking a stand, creating shows that will highlight our stance through specially dedicated spaces, as well as through our own initiative dedicated to limiting non-recyclable consumables and adopting more intelligent actions to limit waste production. Let’s move onto a more equitable and supportive path that’s closer to what unites us all : an unshakable commitment to this industry undergoing major transformations.
100% INCLUSIVE & ECO-FRIENDLY FASHION
TIONAL D EL RNA
→ G L I M PS E, T
MEET WITH THE BUYER OF CENTRE COMMERCIAL, A PARISIAN CONCEPT-STORE
Fashion and TRANSPARENCY
NICOLAS ISRAËL, BUYER AT CENTRE COMMERCIAL DR
who make the vast majority of their collections in Europe, or Common Projects, whose sneakers are made in Italy. There are also A Kind Of Guise, made in Germany using german, swiss, or french fabrics, and Patagonia, whose traceability in terms of materials and the factories they produce in remains exemplary. And of course, there’s Veja, who make their sneakers and source their raw materials in Brazil on a fair-trade basis, generating a positive impact through the production chain. DR
CENTRE COMMERCIAL HAS ALWAYS BEEN COMMITTED TO FASHION AND TRANSPARENCY. HOW DO YOU ATTRACT CLIENTS EVERY DAY ? CAN YOU REFRESH OUR MEMORIES ABOUT YOUR CORE CONCEPT ? N.I. Centre Commercial was the result of Sebastien Kopp’s and Ghislain Morillon’s (the founders of Veja) desire to bring together a variety of initiatives and offer a conscious type of connsumption. Whether they have a social, ethical, or sustainable dimension, the brands we work with are all part of our selection for a specific reason. For example, we’ve chosen Roseanna and Suzie Winkle,
Lots of other brands available at Centre Commercial manufacture in Europe, often in Portugal, such as G Kero, Baserange, and Yasmine Eslami, or using fabrics sourced in Italy, Switzerland, or Germany, as is the case with Officine Générale. Others have simply chosen to maintain their production facilities locally without relocating them abroad, such as with Gloverall, whose famous duffle coats are still made in England. The key factor is to demonstrate that you can indeed wear clothes from head to toe knowing exactly where these garments come from and how
they’re made… in fact, truly wellmade ! This is all about our selection criteria. Our team out in the field takes care of the rest ! WHAT KINDS OF CHANGES ARE YOU SEEING TODAY, WHICH, IN YOUR VIEW, ARE LIKELY TO INFLUENCE THE “ECORETAIL” LANDSCAPE OF TOMORROW ?
Our customers are increasingly stringent in terms of the way items they buy are produced. This is reflected in overall lifestyles, and fashion is starting to be part of this. N.I.
Nine years ago, when we opened our doors, those who asked how where and how the garments we sold were made were few and far between. Nowadays, these types of questions come up often, and we’re delighted ! An awakening is underway, and each of us, at our own level, can try to lessen our impact on the planet. On the one hand, people are discovering that you can keep shopping and consuming, but in a more measured or sustainable way. On the other, brands are offering garments with finer materials that are better sourced or more reassuring in terms of manufacturing or provenance.This new
demand creates a new supply as part of a system where the urgent pace of change is increasingly felt. WHAT ARE THE LATEST NEW PRODUCTS IN YOUR CONCEPT STORE (NOTABLY IN TERMS OF LINGERIE, LOUNGEWEAR, NIGHTWEAR, AND HOSIERY)? AND WHAT DOES CENTRE COMMERCIAL HAVE IN STORE FOR THE FUTURE ?
We’ve just had a pop-up store during women’s Fashion Week with Organic Basics, a GOTS-certified, sustainable underwear brand from Denmark.
Since this summer, we’ve also started working with Girlfriend Collective, which makes leggings from recycled plastic bottles. In terms of ready-to-wear, two new Barcelonabased brands, Rita Row and Cus, as well as New York brand Mara Hoffman, have been added to our selection. In terms of future projects, we don’t generally talk about them before they’re ready for launch ! But just know that something is going to be happening very soon. That’s all I can tell you for now.
6 A-DAM BOGLIETTI
ECO-FRIENDLY brands to follow To find out at Salon International de la Lingerie from 18 to 20 January 2020
LE PYJAMA FRANÇAIS
GERMAINE DES PRÉS
CUCU LA PRALINE
ECO-FRIENDLY brands to follow
LES GIRLS LES BOYS
NETTE ROSE ELSE
MOONS AND JUNES
To find out at EXPOSED from 18 to 20 January 2020. Shop designers at www.exposedparis.com
“We include fabrics made from materials such as bamboo in our collection, an alternative to cotton that’s pesticide-free and uses relatively little water.” LONELY WWW.LONELYLABEL.COM
LILAS SET FROM THE ‘JOLIE’ COLLECTION – MADE FROM 100% LOCAL COTTON AND RECYCLEDFIBER LACE BY LONELY
GREEN AND TANGERINE SET FROM THE ‘LA PETITE LEJABY’ COLLECTION. THIS RANGE IS CRAFTED IN MICRO-MODAL, A FABRIC OF BOTANICAL-FIBER ORIGIN (BEECHWOOD FIBER). THE WATER USED IN THE DYEING PROCESS FOR THIS RANGE IS RECYCLED (85% LESS WATER USED THAN FOR TRADITIONAL MANUFACTURING) BY MAISON LEJABY. ON THE RIGHT, GREY SET BY LES GIRLS LES BOYS. A BRAND THAT HAS ALREADY ADOPTED A NO PLASTIC POLICY FOR ALL ITS PACKAGING. AN INCREASING NUMBER OF PRODUCTS MADE FROM ORGANIC COTTON AND RECYCLED POLYESTER ARE COMING TO MARKET.
WHITE LACE PIECE FROM THE ‘OIA’ RANGE. THIS IS FRENCH-MADE LACE, AS IS ALL THE LACE OFFERED BY THIS BRAND BY ICONE. ON THE RIGHT, BLACK BRA FROM THE ‘ECO SENSIBLE’ RANGE. A NEW KIND OF TULLE, WOVEN USING AN ECO-FRIENDLY YARN, RECO NYLON BY LISE CHARMEL
PHOTOGRAPHIES : STÉPHANE DÉROUSSENT
THIS SEASON’S FAVORITES
LOVE ON THE SNOW
CALIDA KIKI DE MONTPARNASSE
MARLO & MARCO
3 ACTIVIST Designers
OCCIDENTE Jina Luciani, founder
TELL US ABOUT YOUR BRAND, WHICH HAS BEEN A TRUE ECO-DESIGN PIONEER IN THE WORLD OF LINGERIE ?
In 2008, I launched Occidente, our signature brand dedicated to women looking for lingerie that’s good for their bodies and for the environment. After extended periods in Manhattan and Paris, where I worked for major names in the industry, I decided to settle on the Côte d’Azur, with a single goal in mind : developing a healthy and beneficial lingerie brand. This was how Occidente was created, offering a timeless wardrobe for women’s wellbeing, in sync with quality-oriented, sustainable consumption.
PALOMA CASILE Founder
To accomplish this, our designs are inspired by organic shapes all around us, and our materials are rigorously selected. We’ve chosen to favor fine, pure textures that bear an organic label. We also want to include a socially beneficial aspect. Our production workshop, located on the Côte d’Azur in the south of France, is an incubator for our innovations in sustainable development. At Occidente, we manufacture our prototypes and collections in France. We take a complete approach, and this extends all the way through to our recycled packaging.
lor of our organic textiles. We want our creations to be ecological, of course, but also soft, comfortable, and elegant. To achieve this, we’re often inspired by our region in the South of France, from nature, and, more specifically, by the Mediterranean Sea and the Riviera lifestyle that surrounds us.
I remember the positive reception that our pioneering lingerie designs received in 2008. The expertise we’ve gathered over these past ten years in terms of eco-friendly lingerie earned us the recognition of the Ecodéfi label in 2018 for our sustainable actions, and as Master Artisans, for our expertise, in 2019.
IS THE TRULY STYLISH ASPECT OF YOUR PRODUCTS AS IMPORTANT AS THEIR ECOLOGICAL IMPACT ?
We’ve managed to find the perfect balance between style and ecological impact. The stylistic aspect is crucial to our designs at Occidente. White predominates in our collections, and this is a deliberate choice on our part, since it’s the natural co-
“OUR DESIGNS ARE INSPIRED BY ORGANIC SHAPES ALL AROUND US” WHAT’S NEXT FOR OCCIDENTE ?
We’re looking to bring color to our collection using an ultra-high-quality process. These new shades, inspired by the South, will sit softly alongside our timeless whites. This development is stylistically so exciting, because it makes our whites stand out and requires specific research on dyeing techniques. We’re currently working with organic dyeing experts to develop natural tones of impeccable delicacy and purity that are eco-friendly. Other developments are in the works, such as re-usable packaging and the implementation of a fashion ecosystem based on our signature brand. All these new initiatives from Occidente will combine beauty with a conscious approach.
Andreea Toca, Sustainability and Brand Manager DO YOU TALK ABOUT YOUR COMMITMENT/PROCEDURE IN RELATION WITH YOUR BRAND ?
Yes ! our entire brand ethos has always been sustainable from the very beginning. Our entire business model is built around producing with recycled materials and through sustainable production processes. We talk about our commitments and processes on social media (mainly instragram @swedishstockings) and through our website and newsletter.
also produce from natural fibres, such as organic cotton, organic mulesing-free wool, cashmere, etc.
HOW DO YOU USE NATURAL ELEMENTS TO PRODUCE YOUR TIGHTS ?
Our tights production is emission-less because our facilities generate energy through solar and wind power. In the dyeing process we re-use 50% of the water, and purify the rest through a sophisticated, state of the art filtration system. We
“OUR TIGHTS PRODUCTION IS EMISSION-LESS” CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR RECYCLING CLUB ?
We take back old tights and we grind them into filler material for fiberglass tanks. These tanks get used in the commercial industry as oil/ grease traps and they last a few decades. By doing this we elongate the life of pantyhose, through another item, and prevent them from ending up in landfills. We don’t make new pantyhose from old, as there is no technology available to separate the nylon from the elastane so we can’t make new from old.
WHAT’S YOUR BRAND PHILOSOPHY AND SUSTAINABLE APPROACH WHEN DESIGNING YOUR COLLECTIONS ?
Since the brand was launched, I’ve favored a ‘Made in France’ policy, whether in terms of the materials or for manufacturing. The development of our Workshop in Paris has allowed us to be more responsive and have better control over the cut of our pieces, so we can produce as little waste as possible. Today, we make over 2000 pieces per year. Practicing intelligent cutting and reusing excess fabric has allowed us to cut our textile waste in half.
WHAT’S THE CHALLENGE TODAY IN TERMS OF “BETTER CONSUMPTION” ? P.C. The main challenge is the price; remaining competitive is one of the major issues involved in “consuming better”, because manufacturing locally, using eco-friendly fabrics, is more expensive.
“PRACTICING INTELLIGENT CUTTING AND RE-USING EXCESS FABRIC HAS ALLOWED US TO CUT OUR TEXTILE WASTE IN HALF” WHAT INSPIRES YOU TO FIND THE RIGHT BALANCE BETWEEN CREATIVITY AND SAVING THE PLANET ? P.C. In France, we’re lucky enough to be able to draw on an abundance of truly rich and inspiring expert craftsmanship. I think it’s more crucial than ever to pay attention to what’s happening in the world around us so we can keep designing beautiful collections !
LINA SCHEYNIUS Exposed Paris illustrates the season with a photo of Lina Scheynius, photographer. Elaborate editing, her photos can be read like a diary.
CAN YOU INTRODUCE YOURSELF AND TELL US ABOUT YOUR ATYPICAL BACKGROUND ?
I was born in a town called Vänersborg in south west Sweden. i always loved art. wrote books made drawings and took photos as a way of understanding life and expressing myself. iI studied art at school when i was selected by a model agency to go to Milan and do modelling at 16. Modelling became another kind of school. I kept taking photos all through and finally in 2007 I had the courage to start showing them to people and started getting a following online. WHAT KIND OF MESSAGES DO YOU WANT TO GIVE US WITH YOUR SELF-PORTRAITS ?
There is no message i want to give you that i can describe here in words. I take the pictures because they speak a different language to words. Have a look at them and see what you find in them. WHAT IS YOUR VISION OF INTIMACY ?
nn THE EXHIBITION BY INTERFILIÈRE PARIS Whether they’re utilitarian, beautiful, binding, liberating, sexy, or sexist, underwear that’s hidden or revealed, feminine or masculine, communicates something important. Over time, it has become the symbol of a variety of sometimes diametrically opposed causes. This provides fertile ground (and material) for both debate and private antics ! Opposition, resistance, the radical or pacifistic struggle, double standards…what protests will the lingerie of tomorrow be able to represent, to advance which utopian visions ? What materials will they be made from, what shapes will they adopt, and how will they be used ? Under which brands, using what kind of marketing ?
In response to this subject, students took on the world of lingerie as a billboard by posing the question of its ability to communicate a strong message. Creative design was thus guided not by trends, shapes, or materials, but only by the MEANING inherent in the “lingerie object”. And it was through a brand concept and a “lingerie principle” that they responded, not through the fashion design of a range of underwear. It was as an act of messaging that they envisioned the lingerie of tomorrow. 13
The Underpinnings of PROTEST
SYLVIE MARC(SPACE & COMMUNICATION E.N.S.A.A.M.A.) SHARES HER EXPERIENCE
“IMAGINE THE UNDERWEAR OF TOMORROW”
We don’t train fashion designers per se, so it’s not through the lens of fashion creation that we would approach the world of lingerie. What interested me was rather to view this subject from a total design perspective, and not that of a fashion specialist, so as to bring to the table an off-center, innovative look at undergarments.
I wanted to shift the way we look at lingerie by comparing it with a completely different domain and seeing what would emerge from this. At the same time, current events have been highlighting a number of struggles: that of violence against women, for LGBTQIA+ recognition, against breast cancer, that of the FEMEN for women’s rights, and so many other struggles that often use nudity or the display of undergarments as a banner to provoke interest, as the MLF did in 1968. The concept thus emerged in my mind of combining lingerie, with all its delicacy, elegance, detail, and symbolism, with the roughness of social protest, the brutality of anger, and the urgency of certain causes. Students were asked to reflect on causes they wished to defend and the chance to advocate for them by creating a lingerie brand and its related products.”
This is the challenge of the students who will be showcasing themselves in the Tomorrow area on Interfilière Paris Janvier, through the exhibition “The Underpinnings of Protest” ANNA SASTRE
An answer depends on the question and how it is asked; the subject given to students provided direction for their research, and, thus, their
proposed solutions. It is thus first essential to explain the question being asked in order to comprehend the lingerie concepts offered by our students. As a designer, working with paradoxes and contradictions and bringing together contradictory ideas within a single project poses an interesting challenge. It raises many questions, brings to the fore unprecedented issues, and forces us to be creative to resolve them.
“As an independent designer specializing in Brand Design, I’m also in charge of the brand communications division at ENSAAMA (École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Appliqués et des Métiers d’Art – Paris XV) [National Academy of Applied Arts and Crafts], which prepares students for a graduate-level diploma. Our institution trains future designers, creators, and artistic directors for a number of design-related fields: Communications, Events, Products, Environments, Textile Design, Graphic Design.
ECO SHOPS SHANGHAI
KLEE KLEE 01 322 AN FU LU - XUHUI QU DISTRICT
AWAY 05 10 BOND STREET, NY 10012
LE BUFFET 10 11, RUE MULLER - XVIII E ARR.
GREEN & SAFE 02 6 DONGPING LU - XUHUI QU DISTRICT
HU KITCHEN 06 78 FIFTH AVENUE, NY 10011
JOUR À VENIR 11 2, RUE ANDROUET - XVIII E ARR.
ALTER CONCEPT STORE 03 SHOP L116, NO. 245 MA DANG ROAD - HUANG PU DISTRICT
LOVE ADORNED 07 269 ELIZABETH STREET, NY 10012
CENTRE COMMERCIAL 12 9, RUE MADAME - VI E ARR.
REFORMATION 08 39 BOND STREET, NY 10012
MANIFESTE 011 13 14 RUE JEAN-MACÉ - XI E ARR.
DOE 04 TONGREN ROAD - JING’AN DISTRICT
EVERLANE 06 28 PRINCE STREET, NY 10012
January 18â€”20, 2020 Paris Expo - Porte de Versailles Pavilions 7.2 & 7.3 WWW.EUROVET.COM