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No 293 / Summer 2011

Opera Jewels LLC - 1330 West Avenue Suite 1102 Miami Beach FL 33139 USA - T. +1 305 534 1974 - -

A new Life to Jewelry

Opera Omnia LLC 1330 West Avenue Suite 1102 Miami Beach FL 33139 USA - T. +1 305 534 1974 -


On the Cover The collection of the cover is the Halo collection but the inspiration of the shapes is Saba collection. This ring is a unique piece with white gold, emeralds, diamonds, blue sapphires, citrine, white and black diamonds by Opera Omnia. Cover Feature on page 12.


78 Marketplace Basel - Palmiero

Sensuous Serpent - MVee

Editor’s Letter 08

Working Together


Opera Omnia – Colour and Creativity


Cover Feature

Orange Blend Claudio Montias

ProďŹ les 14 16 18 20 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 59 60 61

A Flair for Excellence Love, London, Life The Launch of “Leading Italian Jewels� Interpreting the Material Jewels on a Journey The Fascination of Flowers & Venice Designing for the Global Woman Combining Passion and Precision Jewelmer’s Light Carbon Footprint Development and Evolution Colourful Treasures Rock’n & Roll’n Bringing Joy to Jewellery Vianna Joias has it All Capturing Trends While Setting New Ones The Talented Trio Imperfect Perfection


Colours for Fall 2011


Las Vegas Summer Shows

78 86 90

BaselWorld 2011 closes on a note of Optimism Accent on Gems & Jewels at the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry lry Fair Record turnout at the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show

86 90

Frasca Jewelers – Where They Know Your Name Leonardo Jewelers – Exceptionnally Focused on the Customer

Trends & Colours 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76

Green Energy Sensuous Serpents Passionate Purple Precious Pearls Pink Pleasures Royal Blue Beauty in Flight Orange Blend



Colours Trends


Success Stories Beauty in Flight - Masriera

Events 100

Brazil Hosts 14th ICA Congress


Index Colours olours for Fall - Peter Som

The Yearbook No 291 / Winter - Trends Guide 2011 is brought to you by CIJ International Jewellery TRENDS & COLOURS / Europa Star. sEditor#YNTHIA5NNINAYARsContributors$IANA3:IMMERMAN 42&LORA 2AYAN)NNUE !NTONELLA3CORTA +IRAN.IRANKARIsAdvertising contacts Alexandra Montandon T. +41 22 307 7847 / Nathalie Glattfelder T. +41 22 307 7832 /Italy - Alessandra Arati T. +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena T. +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong )NDIA "HUPAL0OTDARBHUPALPOTDAR MEDIA SCOPECOM4 53! #YNTHIA5NNINAYARCU COMMUNICATIONSINTLCOM4 sGraphic Design,AURENCE#HATENOUD 4ASHA5NNINAYARsManaging Director 0HILIPPE-AILLARDsOn the Web at: and - Published by Europastar HBM SA - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: 0RINTEDIN'ENEVABY32/ +UNDIGs#OPYRIGHTBY%UROPA3TAR)NTERNATIONAL*EWELLERY All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ International Jewellery.







W W W. G U M U C H I A N . C O M



BRAZIL FRESH FINE Visit our companies in COUTURE ANTONIO BERNARDO 230 • CAROL KAUFFMANN 230 • BRAZIL BOUTIQUE 230 BRUMANI 616 • BRUNER 230 • CARLA AMORIM 800 • FR HUEB 230 GOLDESIGN 514 • MARY ESSES DA05 • VIANNA 230 • YAEL SONIA 427 Visit our companies in JCK ANTONIO BERNARDO S10707 • BRAZIL BOUTIQUE LUX 0133 BRUNER LUX 601A • DENOIR LUX 300A • FR HUEB LUX 301A PREZIOSE LUX 801A • VANCOX LUX 500A • VIANNA LUX 1107 Get to know more about brazilian gems, fashion accessories and fine jewellery. Visit


E D I TO R ’ S


Working Together As I write this editorial, I am in Brazil, having just attended the ICA Congress whose theme was “Ethical Mining and Fair Trade.” This is an important subject and one that was discussed quite seriously by a Blue Ribbon panel of experts in the gem and jewellery fields. You can read a summary of it starting on page 100. Over the last few years, a number of organizations have been created to address these issues, incorporating corporate social responsibility, environmental protection, and sustainability. And, no doubt, others will spring up in the future to try and accomplish a number of important goals throughout the entire gem and jewellery supply chain. After all, as one speaker so eloquently stated, “When consumers buy jewellery, they should know that not only is it an expression of value, beauty, and emotion, but they have contributed to making a better life for people who need it most dearly.” Here, though, I would like to mention briefly something that came out of the Congress that is very encouraging, even if not directly related to the gem and jewellery sectors. One of the event’s speakers was from FIRJAN, the Federation of Industries of the State of Rio de Janeiro. With crime on the rise in Rio, the government decided to take dramatic action. It created a special police unit, called UPP, to go into the favelas (Rio’s shanty towns) and confiscate the weapons and drugs. Once the area was “pacified,” in their words, organizations such as FIRJAN came in to create a positive environment. Part of its efforts are directed at promoting athlete programs for kids, literacy programs, senior activities, health care facilities, educational programs, etc. The results are so positive that other Brazilian states are following this example. My friends who live in Rio say that it has made a big difference: crime is down, property values are up, and people feel generally safer. A little local colour in Rio at the “Ipanema Hippie Market.”

And, there is a jewellery connection. Working with FIRJAN, the Rio state jewellery association, AJORIO, has created programs to teach young people how to make simple but attractive pieces of jewellery that they can sell in the local street and beach markets. Surprisingly, or perhaps not surprisingly, some of the designs are really quite creative, even if made from inexpensive metals and materials. At the end of the Congress, to assist in FIRJAN’s ongoing efforts, one of ICA’s major Congress sponsors presented the agency with a check for $30,000, and ICA president Wilson Yuen pledged $50,000 over the next ten years, with $5,000 per year to help these worthy efforts. Bravo to both of them for their generosity. In this issue, we continue our message of colour, showing the Fall 2011 colours forecast by Pantone, along with matching jewellery. In terms of trends, the butterfly and snake themes are among the biggest for 2011 and are featured here along with the major colour directions. Enjoy your summer.


Cynthia Unninayar Editor-in-Chief / CIJ Trends & Colours 08

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cover story

Opera Omnia – Colour and Creativity Launched at the Couture show only last June, the Italian brand Opera Omnia has risen onto the international stage of fine jewellery at a very rapid pace.

Coral Reef Collection

By Rayan Innue

Saba Collection


Founded only a year ago with its colourful and creative Saba, Canouan, and Coral Reef collections, Opera Omnia has today added two important new collections that draw inspiration from the islands of the Caribbean—Antigua and S.Barth. With its curved lines, sinuous movements, and interwoven baroque patterns, Antigua conjures up a mix of symbolisms, cultures, and mysticisms. The artistry and virtuosity of each Antigua piece is highlighted by the unusual combinations of a variety of different gemstones. Amethyst joins Madera quartz, for example, while citrine couples with smoky quartz in unusual and original settings. The ensemble evokes a world of allegorical illusions of faraway beaches and palm trees swaying in the breeze. The attentive melange of 18K yellow and rose gold breaks the bonds of tradition and gives new life to the concept of fine jewellery. Constructing an exclusive and total relationship with Nature, the S.Barth collection is composed of small wearable sculptures that reflect the delicate movement of the island’s flowers and leaves. The soft, yet assertive, forces of Nature come alive in gentle and sensual shapes crafted in 18K rose or white gold. Intensely feminine, these colourful and airy pieces bring together the finest rubies, sapphires, and diamonds incorporated into creatively contemporary combinations. Innovation, new materials, high quality gemstones, Italian craftsmanship, and unique combinations of gems and precious metals describe not only Opera Omnia’s latest collections of Antigua and S.Barth, but also the original and evolving Saba line of fine jewellery. Continuing the use of colour and the geometric forms of its earlier lines, it has added today a very contemporary flair in terms of design and vibrancy. Saba is also a monument to Nature’s best—above and below the surface of the sea. Lively chromatic combinations of 18K pink gold crafted into squares with softened edges, jet, multi-colour sapphires, and tsavorite are the natural echoes of an island paradise. While the emphasis is placed on the brand’s Antigua, S.Barth, and Saba lines, Opera Omnia is also continuing its popular Canouan line. Inspired by the southern Antilles and the varied landscape of green hills, secluded bays, and white sand beaches, it features such gems as white and brown diamonds, tsavorite, amethyst, prasiolite, and garnet in simple and clean designs. Again drawing inspiration from the marine environment are pieces in the Coral Reef collection. In various shapes, these jewels are covered with diamond pavé or hand-finished mother-of-pearl, highlighted with pink sapphires, chalcedony, and other coloured gemstones. As for the wearer of the brand’s original pieces, the Opera Omnia woman can be classified as “an individual who is self-confident, dynamic, cosmopolitan, and very often a self-purchaser. She is proud to reveal the different aspects of her personality,” describes Massimo Zerbini, co-founder of the brand, who has grown Opera Omnia from a single idea to a major jewellery brand in less than a year.

Saba Collection

Antigua Collection

Antigua Collection

How did the growth of the new brand—rapid by any standards—happen? “We started with an idea, and then assembled the finest artisans and designers to create a remarkable team, totally focused on building this new, strong, and distinctive brand identity based on a style and set of values that reflect the post-modern world of ultimate luxury,” explains Zerbini. “By incorporating precious gems and only the highest quality materials, Opera Omnia has already achieved a prestigious status for its superior design, stone quality, and superb manufacturing. While designing a wonderful product is one thing, distribution is another. In this domain, Opera Omnia is working only with select retailers. The brand’s strategy and co-marketing activities for 2011 are focused on three pillars: working closely with retailers to support them throughout their business development; having a consistent communication plan to help increase awareness and visibility of the Opera Omnia brand with retailers’ final customers; organizing local events to enhance the importance of the brand, its brand image, and identity at the point of the sale. Among the local events that have taken place are the European preview held during a fashion night at the prominent Studio Vigato Contemporary Art Gallery in Alessandria, Italy, and a presentation at a high-end yacht show in Florida, as well as various trunk shows. A number of other events are planned for this year. In terms of major trade events for 2011, Opera Omnia was present at BaselWorld in March in the very prestigious Hall 2.2, and will be present at the by-invitationonly Couture Show at Wynn Las Vegas in June. Rarely does the jewellery industry experience such an amazing new luxury brand, one that offers so much colour and creativity. (

S.Barths Collection

Canouan Collection

Massimo Zerbini 13


manu & cris Gaspari – A Flair for Excellence The Italian city of Valenza is known for its fine goldsmiths and jewellers, and among them par excellence is Manu & Cris Gaspari. By Rayan Innue The story begins in the early 1960s when Nino Gaspari founded the family business under the name “Gaspari Jewellery & Co” in Valenza, Italy. For Nino, it was all about passion, art, and elegance. Today, under the leadership of his children, Manu and Cris, the story continues. “We inherited his bold spirit and his deep desire to celebrate the charm of a woman with the sparkle of stunning jewels,” muses Manu. “But we are taking the brand a step further by combining innovations in design with the classical traditions of craftsmanship and excellence that are inherent in the ‘Made in Italy’ label.” “Our research into style has led to the creation of rare and exclusive jewellery,” continues Cris, “and our flair for excellence flows into each jewel that becomes a magical and charming masterpiece.” And, the magic of these jewels can be seen in such pieces as the white gold and diamond parure with purple titanium flowers and fancy yellow diamond centres, or the elaborate rings in rose or white gold set with black or white diamond pavé and rose-cut diamonds in the centre. Still in the magical realm, the brand’s white diamond and gold tiaras are like something out of a fairy tale and truly fit for a princess. Manu & Cris Gaspari also loves colour, exemplified by its multi-coloured earrings in rose gold with white diamonds, rubies, and a rainbow of pink sapphires, amethysts, peridots, and brown diamonds, or its ring in rose gold, set with three large centre stones in yellow, blue, and pink sapphires surrounded by white diamond pavé and orange, pink, and blue sapphire pavé. On a more whimsical note, the brand is also known for its colourful butterflies and other natural forms, including snake-like bracelets and other fanciful creations. “It makes us happy to give a woman the pleasure of wearing something original and unique, even tailor-made,” continues Manu. Clearly, women are giving themselves this pleasure, as Manu & Cris Gaspari jewellery is sold by some of the most prestigious stores in the world. Starting from Italy, it moved into markets in England, Spain, Austria, and Greece, followed by other countries in Europe, including Russia, and the Middle East. Manu & Cris Gaspari then set its sights on the New World, where it graces the displays in many fine stores in the United States and Mexico, as well as Latin America (notably Argentina and Brazil), where women appreciate the timeless quality of the brand’s high jewellery pieces. At this year’s Couture Show at the Wynn Las Vegas, Manu & Cris Gaspari will again be unveiling its flair for excellence in the La Tour Ballroom, Booth 719. ( 14

phone +39/0131.951.387 • •

COUTURE 2011 - Wynn Las Vegas La Tour Ballroom - booth 719


LINKS OF LONDON – LOVE, LONDON, LIFE Links of London, the international jewellery brand that captures the heart, spirit, and wit of London, has been captivating customers cus stomers for 21 years. By Naomi Mansbach

Th The he Links of London story began with a “thank you”—a pair of fish-shaped cufflinks made for a restaurant owner to give as a gift to loyal clients. The design found their way to Harvey Nichols, whose customers loved them, bought them all, and even ordered more. That was 1990. Today, Links of London is an international jewellery brand that is available throughout the United States and Canada as well as Europe and the Far East. The brand offers a distinctive collection of men’s and women’s jewellery in sterling silver and 18K gold as well as an eclectic mix of silver gift items and leathergoods. Links of London prides itself in creating fresh, inspired designs that are full of personality, while never compromising on craftsmanship or the quality of materials. Links of London collections offer imaginative designs such as the Effervescence Collection. Its spirited recurring bubble motif, in sterling silver and fine iolite gemstones, is reminiscent of champagne flowing from a freshly-popped bottle. The 20/20 Collection, which epitomises the brand’s vision, features three rings inspired by the brand’s philosophy—Love, London, Life. A clear favourite is the brand’s fun and playful Friendship Collection. The colourfully woven bracelets are a sterling-silver nod to the friendship bracelets we made and wore as children. With varying motifs, colours, and widths, there is a special friendship bracelet for everyone. Links of London looks forward to an exciting future, developing more interactive online content and introducing creative designs with a true British sensibility. See these and other collections at the prestigious Couture show, Latour Ballroom Salon 908, where Links of London will showcase its fresh and original designs, all evoking Love, London, Life. ( 16


The Launch of “Leading Italian Jewels” Valente

The Indian jewellery giant Gitanjali Group outlines the group’s international strategies for the coming years. One part is the acquisition of five major Italian brands. T.R. Flora Stefan Hafner

Io Si

Nouvelle Bague

Elena Votsi. 18

The Indian company, Gitanjali Group, headed by Mehul Choksi, recently acquired the important Italian brands Valente, Stefan Hafner, Nouvelle Bague, Io Sì, and Porrati. With this acquisition, Gitanjali launched “Leading Italian Jewels,” an Italian holding company belonging to the parent Indian group. Mehul Choksi founded the Gitanjali Group in 1966—and turned it into one of the world’s largest diamond and jewellery empires—it is now listed on the Mumbai stock exchange. It also introduced the concept of distributing designer jewellery to make it accessible to the general public on the Indian market. The group now has a business with a complete, verticallyintegrated vision: from the processing of diamonds and precious stones—it is a DTC sightholder—to the production of jewellery—it owns the D’Damas, Nakshatra, and Gili brands. Through an international network of retail outlets that it either owns or manages directly, Gitanjali also has retail distribution of lifestyle brands in India, the United States, Britain, Belgium, Italy, the Middle East, Southeast Asia, China, and Japan. Stefan Hafner, Nouvelle Bague, Io Sì and Porrati are being distributed by Blu srl while Valente is distributed along with other Gitanjali Group brands by Giantti Italia srl. “The presence on the Italian market is in line with our goal of acquiring excellence and expertise in the creation and handcrafting of jewellery,” explains Mehul Choksi. “Italy is the world leader in this. It represents the cutting edge of jewellery design and we are great admirers of ‘Made in Italy’ creations.” See these brands in the newly launched Leading Italian Jewels booth at the Couture Show at the Wynn Las Vegas in June. Couture - Wynn Las Vegas - Lafite Ballroom # 306

foglie d’acanto bangles collection




the fil rouge of signs

Leading Italian Jewels ∙ ∙ phone +39 0131 973 411 | US Office: Opera Jewels LLC ∙ ∙ phone +1 305 534 19 74


Vendorafa Lombardi – Etnica

Interpreting the Material With a past steeped in tradition and savoir-faire, the Italian brand, Vendorafa Lombardi characterizes the best in creative Italian goldsmithing. By Cynthia Unninayar




“Creating a jewellery piece is, above all else, interpreting the material,” explains Augusto Ungarelli, CEO of the company. And, interpreting the material is what the company does very well. Founded by Mario Lombardi in Valenza in 1951, Vendorafa draws on sixty years of traditional craftsmanship while enhancing it with today’s technology. Innovation, experimentation, and formal research come together in the working techniques of hammering and engraving, allowing the expression of dynamic shapes, spatial harmony, and a special interaction with the light. The brand’s organic forms, floral inspirations, and classic patterns in 18K gold and precious stones are characterized by rigorous patterns and well-balanced sizes. “Creativity, craftsmanship, and technology have always represented the soul of our collections,” says Daniela Lombardi, Vendorafa’s creative director. “Planning how to work the gold—a result of the convergence of creative intuition, manual ability and technical reproducibility—is one of our strong points. Our designers work out the shape of the piece, conduct feasibility studies, define the details in terms of craftsmanship and industrial manufacturing techniques, and then decide which materials to use in order to guarantee the best quality-made product.” And quality is paramount for Vendorafa. All the development and production departments follow each phase of the process, from original idea to final manufacture, ensuring quality checks all along the way and final certification of each product. This dedication to quality and efficient production combined with its high level of professionalism and years of experience allows Vendorafa to not only produce and distribute its own jewellery but also to plan and create exclusive lines for large international brands, with exports totalling about 80 percent of the company’s production. “This allows us to share our expertise and to diffuse the ‘Made-in-Italy’ label,” adds Ungarelli. While Vendorafa’s craftsmen take advantage of high-tech equipment including cad-cam systems, rapid prototyping, and 3D modelling, they are still strongly tied to the traditions of hand finishing each piece using age-old techniques such as hammering, engraving, and embossing. “Working the surface of the metal entirely by hand enhances the material value of the gold, its play on light, and its aesthetic warmth,” continues Lombardi.



This aesthetic warmth embodies each of the brand’s fine jewellery pieces. Among the current collections is “Twist,” featuring the brand’s characteristic hammered matte gold with an intertwined double band—in contrasting brilliant and textured finishes—twisting on the concave surface, set with diamonds. The “Etnica” line is composed of interlocking hammered gold circles and precious wood elements that create soft and unexpected volumes. In the “Pentagramma” Collection, Nature’s pulsing energy inspires wavy lines enhanced by hammered gold balls and brown diamond accents. The graceful lines of “Onda” jewellery recall the long rolling waves of a calm ocean. Nature again serves as inspiration for “Dune” where curved lines and contrasting polished edges are reminiscent of gently sloping sand dunes. With intersecting surfaces and diamond-set irregular and rounded edges, the “Sirena” line creates innovative new shapes, while interwoven curves create energy with their sinuous and hammered knots in the “Nodo” collection. As infinite as the universe, the interplay of sensual lines offers movement and volume to the “Infinito” collection. While the brand’s collections all have their own personality and specific design elements, they are still identifiable as Vendorafa by their organic forms and textured surfaces. But creativity and innovation in jewellery are not the only strong points of the company. Vendorafa Lombardi is also a pioneer from an architectural point of view. It was the first Italian company to put its management section at the heart of its production facility, placing the various manufacturing departments on the sides. And, with a concern for workers’ well being, the ateliers are illuminated by natural light. The square-shaped building, designed in 1968 by noted architect, Ignazio Gardella, is featured in the prestigious Enciclopedia Italiana delle Scienze de Agostini as the first example of an edifice designed specifically for working with gold. The inventiveness and quality of Vendorafa’s products and ateliers are also reflected in its customer service. The company actively collaborates with its partners around the world, whether on the Via Montenapoleone in Milan, Bond Street in London, Place Vendôme in Paris, Ginza in Tokyo, Fifth Avenue in New York, or a number of Main Streets across the USA and around the world. In the United States, in particular, the exclusive collections of Vendorafa Lombardi are distributed by Opera Jewels’ Massimo Zerbini. “The jewellery of Vendorafa Lombardi is appreciated around the world, and the United States is no exception,” says Zerbini. “Its well-crafted and original designs in gold do indeed know how to ‘interpret the material.’” (,



Twist 21

couture event

IBGM presents Brazilian jewellery at the Couture Design Awards in Las Vegas Through a partnership between the Brazilian Gems and Jewellery Trade Association (IBGM) and the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) of New York, nine Brazilian companies will present their jewellery collections at the Couture Design Awards in Las Vegas, Nevada, on June 4 at the Wynn Las Vegas.


As sponsors of the event, IBGM and nine prominent Brazilian jewellery companies will host a Brazilian Celebration, “the celebracao,” with Brazilian cuisine, signature drinks and native music from 6 pm to 7pm. The event aims to strengthen the image of Brazilian jewellery in the American market, which accounts for 49 percent of the sector’s exports. The Couture Design Awards, considered the “Oscars” of the jewellery industry, will take place during Couture, one of the most important jewellery fairs in the world, to be held June 2 to 6, at the Wynn Hotel. Antonio Bernardo, Brazil Boutique by Carlos Beré., Brumani, Bruner, Carol Kauffmann, FR Hueb, Mary Esses, Vianna and Yael Sonia will showcase their collections and expertise to the American market through this lively “Brazilian Celebration.” During the event, Brazilian jewellery will be presented by models to a group of about 500 opinion makers, from industry professionals to journalists. Companies participating in the event will also meet potential customers and take part in extensive marketing efforts through FIT.

Yael Sonia

The relationship with FIT, one of the most important fashion institutes in the world, began in 2010, after a symposium promoted by ApexBrasil (The Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency) for representatives of the main fashion associations in Brazil. You can see these and other beautiful Brazilian creations at the show. Brüner Brumani 22

Antonio Bernardo

Carol Kauffmann


1 E R M P E  ˆ  ( Y F E M  ˆ  , S R K  /S R K  ˆ  1 I P F S Y V R I  ˆ  4 E V M W

[ [ [ N I [ I P Q I V G S Q




ADAM by Adam Lippes using ng Pantone Phlox. His muststhave fashion item: Plaids and very wide stripes made of Milk, Gray and Brown. n.



Louis Vuitton


Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2011.


Pamella Roland by Pamella Devos using Pantone Honeysuckle. Her must-have fashion item: A striking coat in Crimsoncolored baby alpaca that hits right above the knee.

W W W. Y V E L . C O M

Visit us at Couture La Fite Ballroom, #532 Multi color baroque Fresh Water and Salt Water pearls combining 18k gold set with Sapphires and Diamonds from the Yvel Pastel collection


T R E N D S Rebecca

Colours for Fall 2011


Peter Som using Pantone Emberglow. His must-have fashion item: A tailored double-breasted blazer with an hourglass silhouette. MVee Yael Sonia

Kenneth Cole using Pantone Bamboo. His must-have fashion item: The Trench in many colors and forms.

Sant (sapphire)

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2011.





Colours for Fall 2011

Daniel Espinosa

MMa Manya any nyaa & Roumen enn

Charlotte Ronson using Pantone Cedar. Her must-have fashion item: Military cropped biker jackets in wool and leather, a rich Military and Russian Black color-block shearling lined sweater coat, a Black lace-paneled dress and our army jacket.

Mario Buzzanca


Ella Moss by Pamella Protzel Scott using Pantone Nougat. Her must-have fashion item: Ella Camel and Charcoal striped dress with a leather braided belt.

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2011.


Ericaa ney Courtney

18K -$905

 18K -$855 18K -$930

18K -$910 Platinum-$1465 &ORMOREINFORMATIONOR appointment call:


Hidalgo’s new 18K gold or platinum diamond engagement rings. WWWHIDALGOJEWELRYCOMsSFHCONSULTANTS HIDALGOJEWELRYCOM 14 N.E. 1st Ave. Suite 1003 Miami, FL 33132 © Copyright Hidalgo 2011

*OINUSATTHEFOLLOWINGTRADESHOWS JCK Luxury Booth LUX 617 JCK Las Vegas Booth LUX 617 JA New York Hong Kong September



Colours for Fall 2011



Tadashi Shoji using Pantone Deep Teal. His must-have fashion item: A Moss Green hand-cut organza strapless dress. Elie Tahari using Pantone Coffee LiqueĂşr. His musthave fashion item: A beautiful crocodile print jacquard dress in Deep, Rich Brown tones.


Mathon Paris Talento Joias

Opera Omnia

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2011.





Colours for Fall 2011

Opera Omnia


Victor de Souza using Pantone Quarry. His must-have fashion item: My new cashmere wool blazer in Navy Blue – it creates the effect of a wasp waist, while still giving luxurious everyday comfort.



VPL by Victoria Bartlett using Pantone Orchid Hush. Her must-have fashion item: An Iron Oxide legging pant.

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2011.




ANTONIO BERNARDO – Jewels on a Journey The jewellery of Antonio Bernardo blends a certain artistic restlessness with contemporary design, evoking the journey of the artist himself. By Rayan Innue

Under the balmy skies of Rio de Janeiro, jewellery designer Antonio Bernardo combines traditional savoir-faire with innovative and sophisticated technology to create pieces that often resemble wearable art. “I like to investigate the materials that I am using, both functionally and physically,” he says, “and to experiment with new ways of creating and innovating.” The result is a style that is both minimalist and sculptural, and, Bernardo insists, “with pieces crafted to the most exacting standards of quality.” Antonio Bernardo came to appreciate jewellery at a young because of his father, whose store specialized in jewellery and watches. “I began designing jewellery in the 1970s,” he reminisces. “My first creation was a silver ring made from two composite hoops.” This was followed by experimentations with gold—a metal that he uses in many expressive ways—and then later by the many gemstones found in his native Brazil. This year Bernardo explores textures and contrasts. Optical illusions, movement, and brushed and polished surfaces are present in his new pieces, which include: Fantasy bracelet, with its brushed gold circles set with Brazilian gemstones; Venus earrings where metal envelops a delicate pearl, a symbol of femininity; Special Luminoso necklace, exhibiting the moving reflections of a polished finish (the sparkle does not come from gems or diamonds, but from polished cupped depressions in the metal); the Tríade ring, with the band simulating a triple passage, as if three blades were crossing through the metal; the whimsical Puzzle Curvo ring with its removable puzzle pieces; the Perspectiva bracelet and earrings, producing the optical illusion of perspective due to its elongated and quadrangle-shaped parts; the Tons bracelet in different colour tones, creating a dynamic juxtaposition of tobacco and carbon-blue agate; the Prisma Múltiplo earrings, inspired by a prism, whose gems are fashioned with levelled polished facets, producing an array of reflections and plays of light (with only a gold thread surrounding their edge, these pieces evoke tri-dimensional transparency); and the Together bracelet with its surprising intertwining gold lines. Extremely popular in his own country, the designs of Antonio Bernardo made their entrance onto the international stage in 2003, when he first won the German industrial design award IF Design and Red Dot—which he has continued to win every year since. The brand exhibits at BaselWorld, Inhorgenta, and this year will be at the Couture Show in Las Vegas, as the original jewels of Antonio Bernardo continue their artistic journey. ( 34

Calypso Collection

Rina Limor for J.R. Gold Designs Luxury by JCK |The JCK Show |Las Vegas, NV

Luxury Pavilion | lux 908 800.999.0583


BIZZOTTO GIOIELLI – THE FASCINATION OF FLOWERS AND VENICE Drawing inspiration from Nature’s delicate flowers, and from Man’s fascination with Venice, Bizzotto Gioielli is offering two new prestigious jewellery collections.

By T. R. Flora

Cesare Bizzotto is no stranger to the world of fine jewellery. With over 40 years of experience in the gold business, he decided to follow his dream of creating a prestigious jewellery brand whose unique collections would be made in the traditional Italian hand-crafted and time-honoured methods with the utmost attention to detail and quality. Bizzotto Gioielli’s new creations this year centre on flowers and Venice. Delicate flowers are evoked in the Non Ti Scordar Di Me (Forget-me-not) collections. Tender little flowers of white gold and sapphires, petals of white and black diamonds, and corollas of blue, yellow and pink sapphires come together in bouquets straight from the secret garden of Bizzotto Gioielli. The second new collection is Arlecchino, a precious tribute to one of the most beautiful and unique cities in the world, its carnivals, and its masks. Modern pieces with colourful diamonds are created in yellow gold with black and white diamonds and Venetian red and off-white enamel, or in black and white diamonds and enamel. Earrings, pendants, bangles, various sizes of rings, and bands evoke Harlequin’s colourful designs, constituting a delicate synthesis of art and culture that is as unique as Venice. For the fortunate buyer, Bizzotto Gioielli is offering a precious gift: a splendid silk scarf on which the Venetian “bauta” mask and the skyline of the city are engraved, along with the “fortified” B, which is the unmistakable signature of Bizzotto Gioielli. Bizzotto Gioielli’s fascinating Non Ti Scordar Di Me and Arlecchino jewellery can be admired at the Couture Show at the Wynn Las Vegas. (

Elena Votsi.


Non ti scordar di me Collection / Forget -me -not Collection Tenui fiori per forti legami/ Delicate flowers for strong bonds Latour ballroom Stand 901


Carla Amorim – Designing for the Global Woman Because 2011 is the year of “Italy in Brazil,” renowned Brazilian jewellery designer, Carla Amorim, has created Brasiliana, her latest collection inspired by Italian influence on Brazilian culture. By Cynthia Unninayar

Giovanna Battaglia

Elena Votsi. 38

The year of “Italy in Brazil” also comes in a time when Carla Amorim thinks of the global woman wearing her creations. “The pieces are sophisticated with a high voltage of glamour and always faithful to my aesthetic,” she explains. “In this collection, I wanted to experiment with new shades and stones such as peach feldspar, morganite, moonstones, pearls, falcon eye, and sodalite.” Her experiments are an obvious success as their organic shapes and movement add life to a collection, which includes signature cocktail rings and long earrings, evoking a sensual and classy touch, much like the global woman she designs for—a woman who is up-to-date on cutting-edge ideas and concepts and who is connected to the arts, fashion, and cultural expression. Chic, sexy, and strong, pieces in the Brasiliana collection use a stunning combination of black, yellow, rose, and white gold that join with gorgeous gems create truly one-of-a-kind pieces full of personality. To help personalize this new collection, Carla Amorim invited the internationally renowned designer Giovanna Battaglia—a model turned stylist for L’Uomo Vogue and W, among others— to attend the re-opening of the Carla Amorim boutique in the prestigious Iguatemi Shopping Center in São Paulo last March. “She immediately identified with each and every piece of the new collection,” muses Carla. We might add that since the opening event, Battaglia has been seen in the fashion news wearing Carla’s jewellery. But she is not the only one. Carla Amorim jewellery is often seen on the Red Carpet and other events, adorning stars such as Hilary Swank, Jennifer Lopez, Marion Cottilard, Gwyneyth Paltrow, and Carrie Underwood, to name but a few of the many dozens of celebrity sightings. Brasilia-born Carla Amorim discovered her artistic talent and passion for jewellery at a young age. What began as a small hobby turned into a very successful career. A woman on the go, and in the constant movement that creativity provides, she designs pieces that are meticulously handcrafted with the highest regard for quality. With retail stores in five major Brazilian cities, she has a strong presence in her native country as one of its leading creators. Increasingly, however, her jewellery is in demand outside of Brazil. Since its international launch in 2002, her brand is being sold in over ten countries. The new Brasiliana Collection is sure to enhance this international standing and attract the attention of the global woman. (


Combining Passion and Precision Established in 1995, Bergio is well known for its innovative designs, coupled with exotic fancy diamonds and precious stones. This summer the brand is introducing two new collections that also combine the same passion and precision. By Rayan Innue As CEO and head designer of Bergio International, Berge Abajian directs the company with the eye and soul of a designer but with the mind of a businessman. The role of designer, however, is closest to his heart. A third-generation jeweller and a purist when it comes to design, he understands every aspect of the creative process, from initial sketch to final production, while insisting on the highest quality both in terms of product and customer service. “I am in the business of jewelry,” muses Abajian, “not in the jewelry business, therefore my retailers and customers are an important facet of the process, from design to delivery.” Three distinct collections are under the Bergio umbrella: Bergio Fine, a sophisticated line of fine 18K gold and sterling silver; Bergio Bridal, a contemporary yet timeless collection of engagement rings, eternity bands, and bridal sets in platinum and 18K gold; and Bergio Couture, offering the ultimate in exquisite one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces, ranging from elegant necklaces in a scrollwork design of diamonds and baroque pearls to pendants bursting with coloured gemstones. This extraordinary line radiates not only the unique beauty of the creation, but the exceptional style of the woman who wears it. This summer, Bergio is adding two new collections to its Fine line-up. “Sistina” and “Rocca” pieces are rich in texture and unique style, made in 18K yellow, white, and pink gold adorned with white diamonds. In addition, the Rocca Collection will be also offered as “Rocca Argento” a combination of stunning sterling silver with semi-precious stones capturing the essence of easy and everyday elegance. The brand is also releasing several new line extensions to its current bestselling collections. These lines also have four points in common. They are all “Made in the USA”, allowing each step of the production to be quality-controlled; they are versatile and affordable, available in multiple sizes to match all budgets; they are customizable, available in various colours of gold or sterling; and, of course they are all beautiful. “I have the privilege of bringing beauty into people’s lives,” smiles Abajian. “It is, after all, a business that centers on happy moments, and for that reason it brings me immense personal satisfaction as well. It lets me combine my passion for jewelry with a precision in crafting it.” A glimpse into Bergio’s 2011 collections can be found on the Bergio Facebook page while a complete line-up is available on

Elena Votsi.


COLLEZIONE SISTINA 1-888-BERGIO4 Find Us On Facebook © 2011 Bergio


JEWELMER’S LIGHT CARBON FOOTPRINT Sustainability, environmental protection, carbon footprint… Long before these words became “hot topics,” one jewellery company had taken them quite to heart. By Cynthia Unninayar “You can tell a lot about a man by his shoes,” muses Jacques Branellec, managing director of Jewelmer. “They can tell you about his activities, personality, economic status, sense of style, and the size of his footprint. And today, all nations are comparing their footprints, or more precisely their ‘carbon footprints,’ in other words, how their activities are impacting the environment, and the growing problem of climate change.” For Branellec, an avowed environmentalist, having the smallest carbon footprint is not only good for the environment, it is also good for business. And, Jewelmer’s business is the rare and exquisite golden pearl, whose natural rich colour is as dazzling as it is unique—and found only in South Sea pearls produced in the Philippines. It took the company decades of research and biotechnology to perfect the breeding process that produces gold-lipped Pinctada maxima pearl oysters capable of growing large, lustrous, golden pearls, once they found the perfect location. Its pearl farms, laboratories, and workshops are situated on one of the remote islands of Palawan, known for its pristine waters, with flora and fauna found nowhere else. “The pearl farm is, by necessity and essence, ecofriendly. The Palawan South Sea pearl remains the only gem that is formed and harvested in a non-extractive manner. No normal processes are interrupted; no disruptive outside variables introduced; and no other living things disturbed or endangered to create it,” adds Branellec. “Pearl farming is bio-friendly, bio-active, and even bio-regenerative because the farm’s protected areas allow bio-density and biodiversity to increase.” On land, Jewelmer also minimizes its carbon footprint by using solar energy to power the farm’s freezers, lights, and pumps. It also uses coco diesel (extracted from coconut oil), a renewable and biodegradable diesel fuel, in its diesel engines. “We spare no effort in nurturing our golden pearls,” insists Branellec. “Every time we see a golden pearl, we see the promise of a clean environment that we want to work for as well as protect.” And see them he does—adorning woman around the world, who increasingly recognize the beauty and lustre of each of these remarkable living gems. A strand of the brand’s matched pearls evokes a stream of liquid gold flowing around a graceful neck. Rings, earrings, and bracelets of these golden orbs offer a warm glow to complement any complexion. Jewelmer’s exquisite designs are even more precious when we realize that they have a very light carbon footprint. ( 42


Pa m e l a H u i z e ng a JEWELRY



Breuning – Development and Evolution Since 1927, the name Breuning has stood for careful attention to detail, top quality, and brilliant designs, whether in platinum, gold, or silver. By T.R. Flora Two characteristics of the German brand Breuning are its creativity and innovation, allowing it to develop and evolve new collections in keeping with what consumers want. One of these collections is the “Silver Design Collection,” with a range of unique and interesting designs at affordable price points. The brand has recently added to this line with even more original and lovely pieces that will be a welcome addition to the jewellery wardrobe of stylish women around the world. The designs are available as complete sets consisting of earrings, ring, and pendant or—in order to give the consumer the utmost in flexibility—the styles are also available separately. The pieces come in either sterling silver alone or combined with touches of yellow or rose gold, pearls, and coloured gemstones. On the bridal front, Breuning also continues to innovate as seen in its “Bridegroom Collection.” Tradition dictates that the groom shows his love by offering his future wife a unique ring with a diamond solitaire in the centre. Yet, more and more couples today want a double ring ceremony. To provide grooms with beautiful wedding bands, the Breuning designers have developed a novel collection of rings created especially to meet the needs in the USA. A variety of twenty models offers great choice for the groom, with the distinctly masculine designs reflecting the personality of the individual wearer. The forms and styles range from classic models to very contemporary pieces, including interesting surface structures. Importantly, the rings can be easily combined with the style of the bride’s solitaire ring. All rings are made in Germany, with the highest regard for quality and finishing, evoking the brand’s vocation for development and evolution. (

Elena Votsi. 44


Trésor –

Fin Collection

Colourful Treasures

Puja Bordia

A relatively new brand, Trésor makes up for its young age with a wealth of original, contemporary, and colourful designs. By Cynthia Unninayar

Silver Collection

Dazzle Collection

Logo Collection

Interchangeable Collection 46

“Designing jewellery is not only my heritage, it is my passion,” says Puja Bordia, the owner and creative spirit behind Trésor (French for “Treasure).” It’s an apt title, because opening Trésor’s collections is like opening a treasure chest filled with luxurious jewellery. This year at the Couture show, Trésor is expanding its Fin (“delicate”) collection, comprised of delicate and feminine pieces, with the launch of a stunning new line of jewellery made from the exotic and unusual watermelon tourmaline and diamonds. Also new at Couture this year is the Men’s Cufflink Line as well as new pieces in the Interchangeable line, which is “designed for fashion-savvy women who want versatile jewellery they can wear in different colours or in different styles,” explains the designer. These pieces are composed of earrings and pendants where the drops can be interchanged according to the desire of the wearer. Additions will also be seen in the brand’s other collections, which include Dazzle, Bellezza, Logo, Soie, and Silver. True to its name, the Dazzle Collection dazzles with the finest gemstones in various shapes, sizes, and cuts in unusual settings, often one-of-a-kind pieces. In Bellezza, colourful beads and baroque shapes are used to create playful pieces. In Logo, the brand’s logo (inspired by ancient Celtic knots) is used in a variety of openwork creations with various finishes. Jewellery in the Soie (“silk”) line has a silky, soft, and sensuous feel about it, while the more casual Silver pieces are composed of various necklaces made with coloured gems. Clearly, Trésor offers a wide range of designs at excellent price points, ranging from $350 to $35,000. And, also very importantly, Bordia insists on high quality in all her pieces. How to ensure high quality and affordable luxury? “We buy the rough, cut the stones, and manufacture everything in-house in our factory India, where our dedicated team checks quality all along the way,” explains the GIA-graduate, who herself was born and raised in Jaipur and comes from a long line of respected jewellers. “Every single piece is meticulously crafted with exceptional attention to design and detail.” With her inspiration coming from a variety of artistic expressions found in nature, the gemstones themselves, architecture, paintings and sculptures, it‘s no wonder that Trésor’s pieces have been seen on the Red Carpet, adorning such stars as Paris Hilton, Catherine Zeta Jones, Katy Perry, Selena Gomez, Rose McGown, Ashley Benson, and Ana de la Reguera, to name but a few. They recognize the talents of Trésor’s young designer and the treasure chest of beautiful jewellery that she creates. (


Yael Sonia – Rock’n & Roll’n

Spinning Wheel oval bracelets (Perpetual Motion).

With the creation of her award-winning “Perpetual Motion” and “Rock” jewellery collections, designer Yael Sonia is really rock’n & roll’n.

Simple Curve necklaces (Perpetual Motion).

By Cynthia Unninayar Deco Reverse Fit rectangle earrings (Rock).

Deco square pendants (Rock).

Deco Duo Pyramid and Cone rings (Rock).


First came Perpetual Motion—with its rolling spheres, swinging pendulums, spinning tops, and flying kites—and then Yael created the Rock collection, made of large, irregularly faceted or roughly hammered Brazilian stones. Made in 18K gold, gemstones, diamonds, and pearls, the Perpetual Motion collection was “inspired by the movement in children’s toys,” she explains. “I want my pieces to create the same kind of excitement a child feels for a new, fantastic toy. It’s jewellery that comes alive.” Following the dramatic success of her rolling and spinning Perpetual Motion collection, Yael has now introduced more casual pieces into the line. “I wanted to create some ‘everyday’ jewellery. One example is an oval version of the Spinning Wheel bracelet, which has three spheres within the gold structure, thus allowing it to be worn for all everyday activities such as writing, typing, etc.” The Rock collection, which was inspired by a woman’s desire to have a “rock” on her finger, debuted in 2003 with the hammered rings that were quickly followed by rings with irregularly faceted stones. “Around the same time,” says Yael, “the great freedom I felt by having gemstones cut for me in Brazil led to the creation of the Reverse Fit earrings, inspired by the simplicity and lines of Art Deco, launched in 2004.” In these earrings, like the Rock rings, the gemstone is the focal point. “The stones are not ‘set’ in the traditional way but rather pivot on ear wires that hang backwards off the ear, allowing the stones to angle forward,” she adds. Today, this colourful line has expanded to include all shapes and sizes, with the pendant its latest addition. The Deco line itself includes new versions of earrings and rings—entitled Duo Pyramids, Duo Cones, and Navettes—that play on geometry and the reflection of light created by the cut of the stones, giving them a feeling of great depth. Each of her pieces is handcrafted in Brazil where she works with local stonecutters and skilful goldsmiths. “Brazil is where I feel most creative. I spend several months a year at my studio there, fine-tuning my designs and producing the collection,” she says. The rest of her year is divided between Paris and New York, where Yael opened her own boutique at 922 Madison Avenue, showcasing jewellery that is constantly rock’n & roll’n. (


Brumani – Bringing Joy to Jewellery Sissi earrings.

While Brumani evokes the Brazilian soul, the brand has an international following, appealing to women around the world Jennifer Lopez in Looping Shine earrings and ring.

By Rayan Innue

Eduardo Brüner

Maitlin Black ring.

Paris Hilton wearing Brumani’s Candy Rose earrings.

“We create jewellery that emphasizes the beauty and femininity of women,” says Eduardo Brüner, marketing and creative director of Brumani, a modern brand backed by more than fifty years of experience and savoir-faire in fine jewellery. “And, we are driven by a passion to bring joy to those who wear our jewels.” This passion translates into an aesthetic that could be called “Brazilian Style,” a style that translates the Brazilian soul, inspired by the nation’s diverse cultures, colours, arts, natural beauty, and joie de vivre. Yet, it is clear that Brumani’s fresh and original creations also evoke an emotional response on a universal scale. “It all starts with our original shapes and coloured gemstones, combined with our innovative cuts and unique designs,” adds Brüner. “These elements give Brumani its unique identity and make our pieces resonate with women from a wide variety of cultures.” And resonate they do. Among the many women wearing Brumani’s elegant and contemporary creations are Red Carpet celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez, Katy Perry, Selena Gomez, Nikki Reed, Paris Hilton, and Kelly Osbourne, to name but a few. And, the brand’s creations can be seen in exclusive showcases across the globe, such as in Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. Brazilian Style not only involves creativity, it also demands quality. “Brumani combines a high level of artisanal competence with leading-edge technology,” insists Brüner. “This gives us maximum quality control and allows us to create our unique shapes.” And these shapes can be found in a variety of collections, with their own identities. Among these remarkable collections are: Sissi Couture, a tribute to Empress Sissi, a woman far ahead of her time and known for her elegance and grace; Baobab, drawing inspiration from the remarkable Baobab tree; Looping Shine, an ode to movement and sensuality; and Nude, which evokes the world’s ethnic diversity in pieces ranging from white to black. These and other original collections certainly fulfil Brumani’s goal of bringing joy to jewellery. See them at the Couture Show at Wynn Las Vegas in June. ( 50

Saloon 616

Ring and earrings from Baobab Collection in rose gold with diamonds, cabochon rose quartz milky and pink tourmaline.


VIANNA JOIAS HAS IT ALL Perhaps no country embraces beauty more than Brazil. Certainly no company has captured this beauty in such a universally appealing way than Vianna Joias. By Diana S. Zimmerman

Ricardo Vianna and Karla Antunes.

Elena Votsi.


One look at Vianna’s new collections and it easy to see why this third generation, Belo Horizonte based company is not just a Brazilian treasure; it’s well on its way to becoming an international brand of extraordinary repute. From seductive and sexy to sophisticated, classic, or ultra modern, the stunning jewels of Vianna are establishing trends in virtually every market the company goes into. And it’s no wonder. Inspired by the colours, shapes, art, and culture of Brazil, Vianna translates the beauty of its country into contemporary designs that resonate with women everywhere. This is a brand that has its pulse on the woman of today, regardless of her age or origin. “Remarkable gemstones are the centrepiece of our collections,” says Vianna’s CEO, Ricardo Vianna. “We combine traditional cuts with exclusively designed fancy cuts, produced in our cutting facility. This not only allows us to provide maximum quality control and standards, but—even more importantly—it allows us to create unique shapes and cuts, which are the strongest identity of our brand.” “Sensuous organic lines intertwine with bold geometric shapes and unexpected colour combinations, resulting in collections that are suitable for grand affairs, as well as everyday events,” explains Karla Antunes, Vianna’s marketing director. “We focus on creating pieces that are designed for the woman who is connected to the latest trends, and yet is also grounded in her origins. Each collection features different levels of classicality, timelessness, and history.” For more than a decade, Vianna has had a solid presence in the United States and Latin America. Now it is expanding its presence in Europe, Canada, Japan, and the Middle East—and doing so with tremendous success. The world’s desire for Brazilian gemstones dates back to the 18th century. The sheer beauty and variety of Vianna’s innovative designs have made it one of the 21st century’s fastest growing brands. And the commitment of its people to its customers has made it one of the best brands to do business with. “We take great pride in our service, as well as the quality of our jewellery,” Antunes insists. “The designs bring joy and a lifestyle that is concurrently casual and sophisticated. But none of that would matter if we didn’t pay strict attention to producing highquality pieces, and provide an equally high-degree of customer service.” Vianna Joias is, without question, a brand that, like the country of its origin, “Has it all!”

Couture # 230 June 2nd – 6th

Foto: Rogério Franco

JCK Luxury # Lux 1107 May 31st – June 6th

Feninjer São Paulo JIS Miami Baselworld JCK Las Vegas JA New York Vicenza Moscow Saint Petersburg

Tel.: + 55 31 3311 9000 t Brasil t

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Must See in Las Vegas CIJ Trends & Colours offers a glimpse into a range of brands that are definitely worth the visit at Couture and JCK Las Vegas this June. Links of London - An international jewellery brand, Links of London has been captivating customers for 21 years. The brand offers a distinctive collection of men’s and women’s jewellery in sterling silver and 18K gold as well as an eclectic mix of silver gift items and leather goods. Links of London prides itself in creating fresh, inspired designs that are full of personality, while never compromising on craftsmanship or the quality of materials. Among its imaginative creations are: the Effervescence Collection, with a recurring bubble motif, in sterling silver and fine iolite gemstones; the 20/20 Collection, featuring three rings inspired by the brand’s philosophy—Love, London, Life; and the playful Friendship Collection with its colourful woven bracelets in sterling-silver. See these and other collections at Couture Salon 908. (

Pamela Huizenga - Pamela Huizenga’s boldly intimate use of coloured stones—often mixing and matching unlikely textures and shapes—demands attention. There is an earthy complexity about her designs that is both sophisticated and primeval. “As a lapidary,” Huizenga says “I work directly with each of the stones I use, focusing on the colour and shape, allowing the gem to guide my hands and tell me how it wants to evolve. I work with its imperfections, instead of against them—which makes each design unique and gives it character.” Huizenga’s creations are made in 22K, 18K gold, or sterling silver, and are generally one-of-a-kind. See these and other wonderful pieces at Couture Design Atelier, DA05. ( Carla Amorim - Since 2011 is the year of “Italy in Brazil,” renowned Brazilian jewellery designer, Carla Amorim, has created Brasiliana, her latest collection inspired by Italian influence on Brazilian culture. “In this collection, I wanted to experiment with new shades and stones such as peach feldspar, morganite, moonstones, pearls, falcon eye, and sodalite.” Her experiments are an obvious success as their organic shapes and movement add life to a collection, which includes signature cocktail rings and long earrings, evoking a sensual and classy touch, much like the global woman she designs for—a woman who is up-to-date on cutting-edge ideas and concepts and who is connected to the arts, fashion, and cultural expression. See the entire collection at Couture Salon 800. ( Thistle & Bee - The Thistle & Bee signature is a clean, carefully crafted, and uniquely sophisticated design in Sterling Silver. Collections range from classic to contemporary and offer bold statement pieces—such as these highly stylized and textured cuffs and earrings—as well as pure and simple styles within each fine Signature Thistle & Bee Collection. Thistle & Bee is a Designer of Distinction with the Silver Institute and is a Finalist in the 2011 JCK Jewelers Choice Awards. The complete Thistle & Bee 2011 collections can be seen this June at the JCK Design Center S10916. ( - (



Must See in Las Vegas CIJ Trends & Colours offers a glimpse into a range of brands that are definitely worth the visit at Couture and JCK Las Vegas this June. Hidalgo With the goal of producing reliable and affordable micropavé pieces, Hidalgo purchased an exceptional factory in China three years ago. The factory, which operates like a French workshop, led to a new bridal collection, introduced last year. “It’s extremely unique,” says Silvio Hidalgo. “I like designing mountings that are less traditional and, with micropavé, I can create beautifully detailed, fascinating designs around any stone. We have one of the world’s best micropavé factories, with a collection that is so well-priced that it is being sold in China.” For example, Hidalgo’s 18K natural yellow diamond or natural pink diamond guard rings are only $265. The micropavé line has been expanded with hundreds of new designs over the last three years to much acclaim. “Some of my jewellers tell us that we make the best diamond hoops and matching bracelets in the market. I love designing beautiful jewellery that sells and that women just have to have!” Visit Hidalgo at JCK Luxury 617. (

Green G Designer Sabina Lee created her Green G. brand in 1997, opening her first jewellery boutique in Hong Kong. Just 14 years later, she has earned an international reputation for her splendid floral themes, made with superior craftsmanship, using top quality gemstones. One example is her 18K black gold Poppy bangle, set with black and white diamonds, that features intricate branching with stylistic positioning of different perspectives of the lively poppy flowers. Another example is the 18K gold Shangri-La ring, part of the exclusive one-of-a-kind collection. Using the main centre stone as a focal point, Sabina designs a beautiful garden of flora and fauna using tourmaline, diamonds, and sapphires. This year, Green G. debuts at JCK Luxury 1037A. (

Rina Limor A visionary in the designer fine jewellery market, Rina Limor offers captivating designs with one-of-a kind style. Colour is a mainstay in Rina Limor’s collections, and there is never a shortage of exciting pieces with her creative use of alluring gemstones mixed with gold, silver, or enamel and the elegant sparkle of diamonds. Her latest collections feature appealing jewels with aquamarine, chalcedony, moonstones, and a mix of coloured sapphires. With these combinations, Rina creates glamorous and original jewellery that is timeless yet trendy, and that will endure for seasons to come. With excellent quality, customer service, and price points, Rina Limor jewellery can be seen at JCK Luxury 908. (



MUST SEE IN LAS VEGAS CIJ Trends & Colours offers a glimpse into a range of brands that are definitely worth the visit at Couture and JCK Las Vegas this June. Ramon Barcelona-based Ramon occupies a prominent place among prestigious European jewellers, producing high quality collections under its own brand label name as well as private collections for many of the finest names on the Place Vendôme. The jewellery comes in a variety of light and airy pieces in coloured enamel, gold, diamonds, and gemstones with motifs ranging from cocktail rings and flowers to laser-cut bracelets and circle motifs. For special pieces, Ramon also creates in platinum. See the latest collections at JCK Platinum Pavilion 37. (

AG Color One of the rarest gemstones in the world is tanzanite. Its alluring blue-violet colour also makes it one of the most prized. And, one of the most respected gem houses specializing in tanzanite is New York-based AG Color. For over a decade, the company has excelled in precision-cut calibrated and free-size tanzanite, carrying an inventory that includes pairs, suites and custom-cut shapes and sizes for the discerning jeweler. It is also one of only eight tanzanite sightholders in the world. The company also deals in other precious stones and has a generations-old legacy of being cutters of the finest quality gems. From its facilities in Jaipur, India to offices in the United States, AG Color has a reputation for unwavering commitment to service and strict adherence to quality. A long standing member of AGTA, IDCA, DDC, ICA, JBT, it can be visited at AGTA 913. (

Cultured Pearl Association of America The word “transformation” could not be more relevant than it is today. Transformation holds the promise of new beginnings and, in the pearl world, new beginnings are a common occurrence. While most of the world is on the fast track, pearls are on Mother Nature’s schedule, a more leisurely schedule. Each time pearls are harvested, brought to market, and become jewellery, it is a celebration—similar to the reasons people purchase jewellery in the first place. The journey of the pearl, with its allure, intrigue, and mystery is similar to one’s own journey, encompassing love, friendship, and memories. The CPAA members are the finest sources for pearls here in the United States. Our members are dedicated to their reputation and clients, and offer every type of pearl and pearl jewellery available today. Visit their two booths at JCK L116 and B2028. (



Capturing Trends while Setting New Ones Offering high quality, fashionable, and carefully crafted jewellery has become the motto of Mvee Fine Jewellery. By T.R. Flora

Wild at Heart


Glamour & Attitude


Bijoux de la Mer

A relatively new brand and part of the vertically-integrated Hong Kong-based Aspire Designs Group, Mvee specializes in affordable luxury jewellery, with quality standards matching those of well-known European brands. “Mvee was created for the discerning luxury consumer,” states chief designer, Wing, who travels extensively to find inspiration in key fashion cities including Paris and Milan. The result: entirely unique and contemporary designs where the fire of diamonds is tempered by the coolness of style. “By marrying impeccable craftsmanship with superior design,” he adds, “Mvee transforms high quality materials into exquisite, wearable pieces of art that make a bold and lasting statement.” And, nowhere are these bold and lasting statements more evident than in the brand’s wildly popular “Wild at Heart” collection. “This collection is a window into our own hearts, by way of Earth’s magnificent creatures that lend their strength, beauty, confidence, and gracefulness to realistic interpretations,” Wing continues. Also inspired by Nature, the “Fleurdete” line evokes the romance and beauty of flowers. “They are a powerful source of femininity and grace,” adds Hans, creative director. The “Galerie” line embodies both traditional and contemporary designs using white, black, and brown diamonds together to create sophisticated styles for today’s tastemakers. In “Tudor’s Touch,” Mvee takes a journey back to an age of intrigue and opulence with a range of precious coloured gemstones and diamonds in rings and pendants. The brand’s “Bijoux de la Mer” jewels evoke the beauty of the sea, featuring sensual pieces made from luminous pearls, gemstones, and diamonds. In its “Glamour & Attitude” collection, diamond designs speak to women with an attitude who want bold but original jewellery. Finally, “La Rose Blanche” combines old-world allure with modern elements, marrying traditional aesthetics of the Ancient East with a minimalist style of the West. For all the collections, the creative director, Hans—who takes a very hands-on approach—states that “they are crafted with great attention to detail using the finest gemstones, diamonds, and precious metals.” When it comes to production, the CEO of Aspire, David, says, “Design innovation and quality are the core values of Mvee. We believe in evolving and developing new jewellery-making techniques. Our company takes no shortcuts to success.” David also puts the consumer first, from start to finish. “Mvee prides itself on its commitment to top-notch service and appoints representatives around the world to serve the needs of our global client network,” he adds. Mvee collections are available in exclusive, up-market jewellery boutiques across Europe, the USA, the Middle East, and Asia where they capture trends while setting new ones. ( 59


Gumuchian – The TalenTed Trio Designed by women for women has become the tagline of New York-based Gumuchian, and one that superbly captures the brand’s distinctly feminine appeal. By Cynthia Unninayar Gumuchian is truly a family affair, going back to its origins in Istanbul, then to Antwerp and finally to New York. The family’s matriarch, Anita Gumuchian, designer and expert in coloured stone acquisitions, is joined by her daughers Myriam Gumuchian Schreiber, president of Marketing and Sales, and Patricia Gumuchian Grayson, president of Product Development and Manufacturing. Together this talented trio has created a brand with a superb reputation for innovation, originality, quality, and customer service. In terms of innovation and originality, Gumuchian has made three major contributions to the jewellery industry. First is the pioneering three-prong setting where the stones sit tight against each other. Second is the Captiva collection, the first to set diamonds in the shank of the ring as well as on top. The third is Twinset, where tiny diamonds are carefully set into the prongs holding the larger stones. Gumuchian was also one of the first to use platinum in its bridal lines in the 1970s. And the innovation continues. This year the talented trio is introducing “Lady G.” Crafted in diamonds and yellow and white gold with the same Gumuchian concern for high quality and unique design, it comes at a more affordable price point. With a tagline “Style Is Everything,” Lady G is inspired by glass window motifs found in different cultures, and comes in long chain necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and pendants, all with slightly different designs. And, when it comes to quality, the mother-daughters team takes a hands-on approach. They inspect each piece—hand-made in their New York ateliers with unparalleled care and craftsmanship using the latest technology—to ensure that it meets the Gumuchian standard. For customer service, the standard is also very high. “Once a retailer places an order, they have joined the Gumuchian family. We want everyone to feel like a friend, like we are here to help,” says Myriam. And help comes in many forms— rushing a special bridal order, assisting clients with trunk shows and events, or doing co-op ads. A few comments, among many, from some of the “extended family”: “Gumuchian is the little black dress of the jewellery industry; something every woman should have in her wardrobe,” says Veronica Guarino, of Louis Anthony Jewelers in Pittsburgh; “The whole Eiseman team has admired the Gumuchian family for over 30 years for their passion in the jewellery industry as well as their impeccable style and taste and their sense of family. These characteristics have translated to a consistent 30 years of partnership,” says Richard Eiseman, Eiseman Jewelers, Dallas, Texas. Respected jewellers are not the only ones to recognize the trio’s talents. Awardwinning Gumuchian jewellery has been seen on the Red Carpet and the Big and Small Screens, adorning celebrities such as Gisele Bundchen, Mariah Carey, Stacy London, Felicity Huffman, and Tatum O’Neill, among others. (And, check out the new website at and the very impressive Facebook page.) 60


Pamela Huizenga – Imperfect Perfection With a boldly intimate style, this vibrant designer is streaking onto the scene like a glowing comet, lighting up the sky with the irresistible brilliance of her imperfect perfection. By Diana S. Zimmerman

At the age of 16, when most young girls worry about what to wear to the prom, Pamela Huizenga was worrying about passing her exam to become a certified lapidary. Under the tutelage of master cutter, Jerry Call, pass she did—with flying colours. And colour has been her passion ever since. Her boldly intimate use of precious and semi-precious stones—often mixing and matching unlikely textures and shapes—demands attention. There is an earthy complexity about her designs that is both sophisticated and primeval. You want to touch them—to feel the stones—as much as wear them. “As a child I would pick up rocks everywhere,” Huizenga says. “Coming home, my pockets were filled with the various ‘treasures’ that I found during the day. Plain and simple, I love rocks, all kinds—rocks from the garden, the beach, the forest, sparkly rocks, dull rocks, fossils. There is something remarkable about each of them.” “Although high school and college got in the way of my stone cutting,” she continues, “the world of gems and minerals was never far away.” By 19, after working for a gem dealer at a local jeweller’s exchange, the gifted teenager started her own business selling pieces from various jewellers in the exchange. Huizenga has been involved in all aspects of the jewellery industry ever since, as a buyer, retailer, seller, consultant, and designer. Today, she is refocusing her passion on what she loves most—stone-cutting and designing. “As a lapidary,” Huizenga explains, “I work directly with each of the stones I use, focusing on the colour and shape, allowing the gem to guide my hands and tell me how it wants to evolve. I work with its imperfections, instead of against them—which makes each design unique and gives it character.” Although she doesn’t cut every stone in her designs, she specializes in cutting all the opals and some of the more unique rough pieces. Since Huizenga’s creations are one-of-a-kind, a great deal of time and energy is put into each design, ensuring that the shapes and colours work perfectly together. Her bracelets set in 22K, 18K gold, or sterling silver are just one example. “I like fitting all the stones together like little mosaics to create something completely unique,” she says. “I also love working on pendants because of the intricate patterns.” In an industry where perfection is often the goal, Pamela Huizenga has created her own, imperfectly perfect sensations—boldly intimate examples of what can happen when Mother Nature is given a loving hand. ( 61








GREEN ENERGY When we think of nature, we think of green, and there are no more versatile colours than the many shades of green. In jewellery, this calming colour ranges from the yellowish hues of peridot, beryl, and zultanite to the more grassy shades of tourmaline, tsavorite, jade, and emerald. Whatever the stone, they all evoke luscious green energy.


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1. Peridot and diamond ring by Bagues (Spain). 2. Peridot and pearl earrings by Assael (USA). 3. Zultanite and diamond earrings by Rhonda Faber Green (USA). 4. Gemstone and diamond earrings by Kavant (Thailand). 5. Peridot, diamond, and tourmaline ring by Roberto Coin (Italy). 6. Peridot, diamond, and sapphire ring by Sharart (Thailand). 7. Peridot and diamond ring by MVee (Hong Kong). 8. Gemstone and diamond ring by Kerri Halpern (USA). 9. OutďŹ t by Roberto Torretta (photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week).










10. Emerald and diamond earrings by Chopard (Switzerland). 11. Black diamond and emerald earrings by De Grisogono (Switzerland). 12. Enamel and gold necklace by Victor Mayer (Germany). 13. Murano glass and diamond earring by Fatimah Sewani (USA). 14. Watch in gold and translucent paillonnĂŠ enamel with 800P automatic movement by Van Cleef & Arpels (Switzerland). 15. Emerald and diamond ring by Piaget (Switzerland). 16. Multi-coloured gemstone brooch by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 17. Facetted tsavorite by Campbell Bridges Exploration (USA). 18. OutďŹ t by Venexiana (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week).


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SENSUOUS SERPENTS The snake has been a fascinating creature since time immemorial, from being embodied as an essential element of ancient crowns to a favourite of the Art Nouveau period to today’s alluring symbolism evoking strength, power, and fear. From highly stylized to realistic forms, sensuous serpents are a favourite of jewellery designers around the world. 4


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1. Gemstone and gold cuff by M.C.L. Matthew Campbell Laurenza (USA). 2. Diamond and gold ring Helmuth (Germany). 3. Diamond and gold ring by J Jewels Milano (Italy). 4. Pearl and diamond brooch by Assael (USA). 5. Gemstone and diamond bangle by Zorab (Thailand). 6. Diamond and gold bangle by Amrapali (USA). 7. OutďŹ t by Binetti (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York).


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8. Gemstone and diamond pendant by MVee (Hong Kong). 9. Gemstone and gold pendant by G-Link (Hong Kong). 10. Emerald (137 carats) and diamond pendant by Zannetti (Italy). 11. Gemstone and pearl ring by Sartoro (Thailand). 12. Diamond and gold ring by Le Vian (USA). 13. Diamond and pearl ring by Lorenz Baumer (France). 14. Gold and diamond watch by Bulgari (Italy). 15. Gold and diamond necklace by Ponte Vecchio (Italy). 16. OutďŹ t by Miu Miu (photo: AS).

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PASSIONATE PURPLE A royal and noble colour, purple is also a favourite with jewellery designers. Its varied d tones, ranging from cooler bluish lavendar shades to warmer reddish hues, are seen in a multitude of creative designs using such gems as amethyst, jade, spinel, sapphire, and topaz, among other purplish stones.





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1. Amethyst and gold pendant by Talento (Italy). 2. Gemstonee andd diamond didiam amon ond nd earrings earrrrinings ea gs by by Antonini (Italy). 3. Jade and ruby pendant by David Lin Jades ad (USA). 4. Gemstone ade ades Gems mstotone ne ring rriningg by Roberto Coin (Italy). 5. Steel and crystal rings by Brosway (Italy). 6. Gemstone and diamond ring by Diamonds for a Cure (USA). 7. Violet spinel and diamond earring by Erica Courtney (USA). 8. OutďŹ t by Christophe Guillarme (photo: Christophe Guillarme).





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9 Am 9. Amethyst methyst and diamond ond earringss by Le Leaderline (Italy). 10. Gemstone goldl pendant by Faraone (Italy).. 11. Amethystt and diamond on ring by Pont Ponte ont Vecchio (Italy). 12. Amethyst and gold earrings by Jane Taylor (USA). 13. Gemstone stone ne and diam diamond ring by Zorab (Thailand). 14. Amethyst and diamond earring byy Natalie K (USA). 15. Gemstone and ndd diamond ring by Piaget (Switzerland). 16. Amethyst and diamond ring by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 17. Facetted 18.59-carat amethyst by John Dyer (USA). 18. OutďŹ t by Brioni (photo: Tashkent Fashion Week).


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From creamy whites, to glittering golds, to the darker Tahitian varieties, the South Sea pearl is prized for its innate beauty, lustre, and orient. Among the groups whose members are dedicated to the pearl and pearl jewellery in all its forms is the Cultured Pearl Association of America. Visit them at for a wealth of information on all kinds of precious pearls.



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1. Pearl and diamond cuffs by Tara (USA). 2. Pearl and diamond bracelet by Mastoloni (USA). 3. Pearl and diamond earring by Kavant (Thailand). 4. Pearl and diamond necklace by Jewelmer (Philippines). 5. Pearl and gemstone brooch by Mario Buzzanca (Hong Kong). 6. Pearl and gold earrings by Misaki (Monaco). 7. Pearl and diamond ring by Porchet (France). 8. OutďŹ t by Ana Locking (photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week). (Background underwater image: Lornie Mueller/Ltihos Jewelry.)











9. Pearl and gemstone pendant by Autore (Australia). 10. Pearl and diamond pendant by Baggins (USA). 11. Pearl and and diamond pendant by Reena Ahluwalia (Canada). 12. Pearl and gold ring by Lornie Mueller/Lithos Jewelry (USA). 13. Facetted pearl earrings by Anne Sportun (Canada). 14. Pearl and diamond necklace by Pacoma (France). 15. Pearl and diamond brooch by Assael (USA). 16. Pearl and diamond brooch by Emiko Pearls (USA). 17. Facetted pearl and diamond ring by Mark Schneider (USA). 18. Pearl and diamond brooch by Yvel (Italy). 19. OutďŹ t by Yujen (photo: Lviv Fashion Week).

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A quiet colour, associated with calm and contentent, pink is the colour of universal love. Ranging from milder pale pink to rosy pink to vibrant hot pink, it is represented in jewellery by a variety of gemstones, including rubellite, sapphire, ruby, topaz, rose quartz, and pink diamond, as well as enamel, mother-of-pearl, and titanium.


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1.1 Sa SSapphire apphire pphire hi andd dia diamond n pendant endant by Nanis (Italy (Italy). 2. Gemstone and diamond earrings by Giovanni Ferraris (Italy). 3. Ru Rubellite ubellitee and annd diamond amoon earrings gss by Clementin Clementina ti Duarte (Brazil). 4. Gemstone and gold earrings by Goldesign (Brazil). 5. Gemstone and diamond ring by Gumuchian (USA). 6. Rubellite and diamond ring by James Kaya (USA). 7. Rubellite and diamond ring in blackened gold by Garaude (France). 8. Sapphire and diamond ring by On Going Jewellery (Hong Kong). 9. OutďŹ t by Christophe Guillarme (photo: Christophe Guillarme).



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10. Gemstone and gold earrings by Suzy Landa (USA). 11. Sapphire and diamond pendant by Yvel (Israel). 12. Gemstone and gold earrings by Carelle (USA). 13. Gemstone and diamond pendant in ruthenium silver by Rodney Rayner (Britain). 14. Gemstone earrings by Tresor (USA). 15. Gemstone and diamond choker by May Jewelry (Japan). 16. Rubellite and rock crystal earring by Syna (USA). 17. Gemstone and diamond ring by John Apel (USA). 18. Facetted 33-ct imperial topaz by Constantin Wild (Germany). 19. OutďŹ t by Lemoniez (photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week).





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A calming and restful colour, blue is also believed to be the colour of inspiration and spirituality. In the jewellery world, blue comes in a variety of shades, from light tones to dark and vibrant royal hues, evoked by gems such as sapphire, topaz, azurite, iolite, 3 diamond, and tanzanite.



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1. Sapphire and diamond ring by Zydo (Italy). 2. Gemstone and gold earrings by Christian Tse (USA). 3. Sapphire and diamond earrings by Crivelli (Italy). 4. Sapphire and diamond necklace by OMI Gems (USA). 5. Sapphire, emerald, and diamond brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 6. Sapphire and diamond rings by Kirk Kara (USA). 7. Sapphire and diamond bracelet by Rina Limor (USA). 8. OutďŹ t by Laurèl (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin).



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15 14 9. Sapphire and diamond earrings by Bibigi (Italy). 10. Gemstone and diamond ring by Isabelle Langlois (France). 11. Gemstone and diamond crown brooch by Faraone (Italy). 12. Topaz and diamond earrings by Vianna (Brazil). 13. Gemstone and diamond ring by Magerit (Spain). 14. Blue and white diamond ring by Schreiner (Germany). 15. Multi-gemstone and diamond ring by Porrati (Italy). 16. Facetted sapphire by Sara Gems (USA). 17. OutďŹ t by DavidelďŹ n (photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week).


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1. Gemstone, ne, diamond, diam and gold ring by Pranda (Thailand). 2. Gold, diamond, nd, and amethyst ethy earrin earring by Leaderline ne (Italy). 3. Mu hreiner (G Ge Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond pendant by Schreiner (Germany). 4. Gold and amond pendant en by Ma nd bbrooch by Masriera (Spain). diamond Mathon Paris (France). 5. Enamel, peridot, and diamond 6. Sapphiree and diamo diamond brooch by Suna Bros (USA). 7. Sapphire and diamond ring by Pasquale Bruni (Italy). 8. OutďŹ t by Gregorius G Vici (photo: Jakarta Fashion Week).

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9. Sapphire and nnd diamond pendant by Miiori (Thailand). 10. MultiMulti-coloured gemstone brooch by Akiva Gil (USA). 11. Goldd and diamond earring by Gavello (Ital (Italy). ly)) 12 12. Enam Enamel and gold earring by Commelin l (France). 13. Lavendar and red spinel, and diamond ring by Georland (France). 14. Diamond ring by Assael (USA). 15. Diamond ring by Christian Tse (USA). 16. Blue diamond and gold ring by Roberto Bravo (Turkey). 17. Ruby and diamond brooch by Rina Limor (USA). 18. OutďŹ t by Zeduca (photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week).

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A power colour, orange commands attention. Evocative of the changing seasons, it is between the heat of summer and the cool of ZLQWHUEXWLVGHÂżQLWHO\DKRWFRORXUIRU ,QMHZHOOHU\RUDQJHLVGHSLFWHGE\VXFKJHPV as citrine, sapphire, topaz, opal, carnelian, JDUQHWDQGFKDOFHGRQ\LQDUDQJHRIWRQHV IURPVRIW\HOORZRUDQJHWRÂżHU\KRWUHGRUDQJH 5

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1. Coloured gemst old earringss by gemstone and diamond ring by Green G (Hong Kong). 2. Carnelian and gold Pamela Fro Froman (USA). 3. Pen in resin and metal by Montegrappa (Italy). 4. Citrine and gold earrings by OGI (USA). 5. Facetted sapphire by Piat (France). 6. Fire opal and black diamondd rin ring by Ba Jewels (Hong Kong). 7. Gemstone and enamel ring by Victor Mayer (Germany). 8. OutďŹ t by Baer Dimitri (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin).





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15 15 9. Citrine and diamond earrings by Vianna (Brazil). 10. Beryl and diamond earrings by Clementina Duarte (Brazil). 11. Citrine and diamond ring by Yael Designs (USA). 12. Sapphire and diamond earrings by Goldesign (Brazil). 13. Citrine and diamond ring by Magerit (Spain). 14. Opal and diamond ring by Forever Jewels (Singapore). 15. Gemstone and diamond earring by Lorenz Baumer (France). 16. Shoe by Claudio Montias (photo: AS). 17. OutďŹ t by Alma Aguilar (photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week).

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marketplace peacock broach in tsavorites, paraiba tourmaline, sapphires, and diamonds by chopard (Switzerland).

BaselWorld 2011 Closes on a note of optimism BaselWorld 2011 closed its doors on March 31 on a very optimistic note, as a recovery in the jewellery industry seems to be further confirmed by the eightday show. By Cynthia Unninayar While BaselWorld is known primarily as a platform for Swiss (and other) watchmakers, the event also showcased jewellery brands from around the world. With Swiss watch brands rejoicing at the apparent recovery underway—confirmed by rises in exports in January, February, and March—jewellers also seemed happy with the show. Anecdotally, most jewellery brands reported brisk business although some said that the show was fair while a few indicated that it was slow. In general, however, most declared that their results were superior to those of 2010. In the world of jewellery and watches, one of the main attractions of BaselWorld is its universality, not only because of its international attendance—exhibitors numbered 1,892 from 44 countries, attracting 103,200 visitors from 100 countries—but also in terms of products. From inexpensive silver and other metal items to exquisite multi-million dollar parures, and from all sizes and prices of colourful gemstones to the most luxurious pearls and scintillating diamonds, and just about every type of timepiece imaginable, there was something for every taste and budget at BaselWorld.

Silver and gemstone earrings by Franco p/Franco pianegonda (Italy).

Silver ring from cai (Germany).

Gold and enamel ring by Victor mayer (Germany).


Special Events In addition to the many products showcased, BaselWorld provided a venue for a number of other important events. One was the spectacular “India Show,” an evening of entertainment sponsored by India’s Gems & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC). After an introduction by Anand Sharma, India’s Minister of Commerce and Industry, and Didier Burkhalter, Swiss Federal Councillor and Head of the Federal Department of Home Affairs (both of whom cut the ribbon for the grand opening of this year’s BaselWorld), the audience was treated to a variety of cultural presentations by traditional musicians and dancers. These were followed by a colourful fashion show of India’s top models wearing exquisite jewellery creations from Indian designers. “Today the gem and jewellery industry is a significant contributor to the steady growth of the Indian economy,” stated Mr. Sharma, adding that the event was “not just to promote Indian jewellery but to showcase India’s untapped trading potential at this global platform.” Clearly, India intends to become a major player in the global jewellery landscape, as explained by GJPEC chairman Rajiv Jain: “India gems and jewellery exports are expected to grow at a whopping 35 percent in 2011. With our participation at BaselWorld, the GJPEC aims to increase the trade intensity towards India.

Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond peacock brooch by Palmiero (Italy).

Round-cut diamond by Diarough (Belgium). “Divine Diamond” 25.38-ct dark grey diamond crucifix (GIA-certified) hand-carved over nine years by Mahendra U. Shah for K9 Jewels (India).

With the support of the Government of India and especially Mr. Anand Sharma, GJEPC is today a step closer to creating ‘Brand India’ and to establishing India as the global trading hub.” Another major player in the global jewellery arena is Hong Kong, whose brands make up the largest group at BaselWorld. Their elegant creations were showcased in a fashion show at their national pavilion, sponsored by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC). The world’s fourth largest jewellery exporter, Hong Kong is increasingly important as both a provider of fine jewellery and as an entry point into the emerging and promising market of China. In an interview with CIJ Trends & Colours, Margaret Fong, HKTDC deputy executive director, explained that Hong Kong’s jewellery exports rose 21 percent by value to US$4.4 billion in 2010. While high prices of metals and diamonds contributed in part to this increase, the volume of exports was up by a similar percentage. Exports consisted mainly of gold and jade pieces, but also diamond and yellow gold jewellery as well as precious stones. Hong Kong has also now become a global hub for pearl distribution and trading, due in part to the rise of South China cultured pearls. Fong also explained that demand for Hong Kong exports is due to both the economic recovery in the United States and Europe as well as to increased demand in the emerging economies, especially China, a nation that currently accounts for 15 percent of the world’s total luxury market and that is expected to consume 44 percent by 2020. During its annual BaselWorld press lunch, the Israeli Diamond Industry (IDI) launched its strategic “Welcome to Israel” marketing campaign and a new diamond app. IDI managing director Eli Avidar affirmed that the Israeli diamond industry had weathered the economic crisis and has come out strengthened, adding that “most of Israel’s leading diamond companies saw their exports increase by over 50 percent in 2010, on their way to reaching pre-crisis export levels.” Avidar added that the IDI would also be opening a new office in the Bharat Diamond Bourse in

Ming steel and ceramic bracelet by Rochet (France).

Gold brooch set with tsavorite, sapphire, spinel, mandarin garnet, andradite, topaz, and diamonds by Georland (France). 79

marketplace Sapphire and diamond ring by arzano (Switzerland).

Gold and diamond ring by ttF Studio (china). Gold “Sol y Sombra” pendant by carrera y carrera (Spain).

“moscow” gold and lacquer ring by tournaire (France).

Gem-set gold box by taka-art-craft (Japan).

Gold and diamond ring by Staurino (Italy).

“Galileo” gold ring by D-Duke (Italy). 80

Mumbai, as well as expanding its participation in trade shows, especially in India and Hong Kong, and would be working toward establishing a rough diamond sourcing group in Israel. He also launched a new iPhone and iPad application for the diamond industry. The free app offers a wealth of up-to-date news and information, in addition to allowing users to conduct business from anywhere in the world. Companies can easily upload their diamond requirements via the IDI portal, and dealers wishing to supply those diamonds can contact the relevant company via the application. The guest speaker at the IDI luncheon was Reuven Kuvent, outgoing CEO of Dun & Bradstreet Israel, who gave a very informative presentation on the accelerated growth of Asian economies, especially China and India, and its impact on consumer demand and the diamond industry. “By 2030, the Chinese economy will be the largest in the world; the USA will be second; and India will have the third largest economy,” he predicted. Although the USA might seem to be less attractive now due to poor economic performance, Kuvent encouraged the industry to cultivate each of these markets for the future. With increasing awareness in the jewellery and gem industries about best practices concerning sourcing, sustainability, and workers’ conditions, the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) sponsored a panel discussion in collaboration with Solidaridad and Fairtrade Foundation. The aim of the panel was to brief attendees on the efforts of each organization towards the common objectives of responsible sourcing and chain-of-custody, as well as to share information on what members of the supply chain are doing to ensure better practices. According to the RJC, “Interest from jewellery retailers and manufacturers in Chain-of-Custody has grown considerably as a result of the conflict minerals provisions of the Dodd-Frank Wall Street Reform Act that were passed by US Congress in 2010. The RJC aims to develop its C-o-C certification standard to support companies seeking to apply greater due diligence in the supply chain, whether for Dodd-Frank compliance or as part of a broader company strategy.”

Bronze and quartz bracelet by rebecca (Italy).

India International Jewellery Show Bombay Exhibition Centre - Mumbai

~ 80 0 E x h i b i tors

28 th Edition ~

1 700 Booths

5 Co unt r y Pa vilio ns

35, 000+ Tr a de Visit o r s For registration visit

JA N UA RY 6 t h t o 9 t h 2 01 2

For details contact: The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council Tel : +91-22-2654 4600 Fax: +91-22 2652 4764 Email:

marketplace pendant in gold, pearl, sapphires, and high-tech ceramic by Utopia (Italy).

Gold ring with interchangeable centre stone by ramon (Spain).

Gold and enamel “arabesque” pendant by kuwayama (Japan).

Gold and gemstone necklace by Galliano/Damiani (Italy).

Silver and crystal charm by phantasya (Switzerland).

Design Directions As mentioned, there was something for everyone at BaselWorld, with a confirmation of previous design directions. The Nature theme, comprised of flowers, birds—especially peacocks— snakes, frogs, butterflies, and other natural creations was again evident. Colour in all its forms—gemstones, enamel, various metal treatments—was a definite favourite. Silver has definitely gained the status of a noble metal, as most brands offered collections in the white metal, with or without diamonds and gemstones, and often mixed with gold for a two-tone effect. Creative lacy looks and openwork designs continued unabated as prices of precious metals continue unabated. Men’s jewellery collections were also seen by an increasing number of brands. As gemstones are also on an upward trend, jewellers have had to examine creative ways to showcase these colourful gems. Following the lead of designers featuring rough and included diamonds in fine jewellery for the last few years, others are now offering less expensive “raw” sapphires and emeralds, as well as other gems such as agate and quartz in a wide array of fashionable and affordable designs. The rose gold trend was again prominent, with many brands offering the warm tones with matching gemstones, as were the blackened metals—gold, silver, and titanium—in a multitude of creations. Next year’s BaselWorld will be held even earlier, from March 8 to 15, while the following year, BaselWorld 2013 will return to its April timeframe, starting on April 25.

Silver, enamel, and crystal bead bracelet by chamilia (USa).

Silver and enamel “my Dog” earrings by rosato (Italy). titanium and diamond “Hokusai” earrings by Garaude (France). 82

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June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 23 - 26 June 2011 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre


September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Diamonds, Pearls, Gemstones, Equipment and Packaging 19- 23 September 2011 AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong (AWE)

Fine Finished Jewellery 21 - 25 September 2011 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC)

June Hong Kong Jewellery r & Gem Fair In crowded calendar of Asian trade shows, the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair stands out as the most important mid-year jewellery trade event in Asia. More than 16,600 visitors from 100 countries and regions converage on the exhibition center to source and buy from over 1,300 exhibitors from 30 countries & regions.

September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Already Asia’s biggest show of its kind, the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair took its leadership further in 2009 by becoming the world’s biggest jewellery fair in terms of number of exhibitors. The Fair featured over 3,300 exhibitors spread over 130,000 square meters of exhibitions space in two venues: the AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) and the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC).

Product Sectorisation The success of the 2009 Fair confirms the viability of product sectorisation arrangement as it helped buyers locate the products more efficiently, in turn improving their success rate as well as that of the exhibitors. The September Fair in 2011 will follow the same track: all jewellery raw materials including diamonds, pearls and gemstones, and equipment & packaging will be showcased in AWE, while all fine finished jewellery will be displayed in HKCEC.

Themed Halls & Pavilions

Type of Products Both Fairs feature a range of fine finished jewellery, loose gemstones, diamonds, pearls, jewellery-making equipment, packaging, publications and booths for jewellery-related associations.

To suit different needs of buyers, the September Fair is divided into different halls and pavilions by products: AsiaWorld-Expo • Diamonds • Pearls • Gemstones • Fine Gem Pavilion • Packaging, Tools & Equipment Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre • Hong Kong Pavilion • Hong Kong Premier Pavilion • International Premier Pavilion • Fine Design Pavilion • Designer Avenue • Jadeite Gallery • Antique & Estate Jewellery Pavilion • International Fine Jewellery • Asian Fine Jewellery • Silver Jewellery • Pearl Jewellery & Finished Jewellery • Jewellery Accessories • Publication Pavilion

Buyer Information Visitor Promotion Department, UBM Asia Ltd Tel: (852) 2585-6178 / 2516-2157 Fax: (852) 3749-7344 Email:

Group Pavilions In 2010, there were 21 participating group pavilions spanning over two world-class venues: Belgium, Brazil, China, Colombia, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, the United States and the Int’l Coloured Gemstone Association (ICA).

Special Events A series of special events will be organised by professional organisations during the Fair: pearl auctions, seminars, jewellery parades, special jewellery displays, a gala dinner, meetings, forums and more.

US Contact UBM Asia – New York Office 600 Community Drive Manhasset, NY 11030, USA Tel: (1) 516-562-7855 Fax: (1) 516-562-7855 Email: Organiser UBM Asia Ltd 17/F China Resources Building 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2516-1677 / 2585-6179 Fax: (852) 3749-7319 Email: Website:










ACCENT ON GEMS AND JEWELS AT THE BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR Silver and gemstone necklace by Well Field Corp.p.

Gemstone, diamond, and gold earrings rrings by Diamrusa.

The bi-annual Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair kicked off its 47th edition on February 25 with an accent on jewellery design and the e welcome news that rough stones would be exempt from duties, a w boon ffor the nation’s gemstone dealers. By Cynthia Unninayar

Silver and gemstone necklace by Pochai.

Winner of the Ploi Thai design competition: Gemstone and gold necklace and cuff designed by Sanit Siriprasat and manufactured by 1539 Art of Jewels Co.


A spectacular multimedia presentation and an elegant fashion show held at Bangkok’s modern Impact Challenger Exhibition Hall at the beginning of the winter edition of the Gems & Jewelry Fair highlighted the initiative to promote the creative designs of Thai jewellers and the Ploi Thai brand name. The term “Ploi Thai” is Thailand’s own country name for the gems produced and cut in the nation. The “Ploi Thai Jewelry Creation” design competition, with original entries in both gold and silver, showcased pieces that reflect the skills of Thai designers, gem cutters, and craftsman, and that will make up part of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry road shows as they travel around the world, visiting important trade fairs in places such as Basel, Las Vegas, Mumbai, and Dubai. Another highlight of the show was the “Jewelry Trends of 2012” event that illustrated the trends for the upcoming year. It was organized by the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association in collaboration with Swarovski. The gem and jewellery sector represents Thailand’s third largest industry, resulting in more than US$10 billion in annual sales, and Bangkok’s bi-annual gem and jewellery show plays an important role in this sector. This year’s fair attracted some 1,500 exhibitors, including 300 international participants, in sixteen key product categories, with more than 35,000 visitors coming from 35 countries,

Gemstone and silver jewelry by D Quality Design.

Diamond, gemstone, and gold earrings by A K Mahallati.

Silver and enamel charms by Benetone.

including major buying delegations from Russia, China, and India. “From a modest start less than three decades ago, today the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair is now recognized as being among the top five jewellery trade shows in the world. And I am proud to say that the 47th fair has set new records for exhibitors and visitors who come to Thailand from every corner of the world,” declared Somchai Phornchindarak, CEO of the Bangkok fair. Thailand’s main gem and jewellery export market has long been the United States, which represents about one-quarter of total exports. Although this major market took a dive with the economic slowdown beginning in 2008, the situation began improving by mid-2009. Interestingly, one consequence of the economic slump and the rising gold price is that Thai silver jewellery exports to the USA increased during this period. Thailand is now the leading exporter of silver jewellery to the United States, and starting in 2009, Thailand became the world’s largest single exporter of silver jewellery, with total exports valued at around US$956 million. With its position as the world’s biggest silver jewellery exporter, it came as no surprise that a great many of the stands at the Bangkok fair were silver producers proposing a wide variety of products. These ranged from simple metal pieces to elaborate crystal and cubic zirconia-set creations to original upmarket designs set with coloured gemstones or treated with special patinas. Also present were producers of delicately crafted traditional Thai jewellery made in silver as well as traditional gold pieces. The second largest part of the fair was devoted to gemstones, again not surprising since Thailand is one of the world’s major gem cutters. The industry received a boost last year when the 27-percent import duty on rough was removed. Through the efforts of the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association, the Thai government finally granted a tax incentive program, including Zero VAT and duty exemption of rough stones, which was implemented in 2010. A significant but smaller number of stands offered fine jewellery in gold alone or set with coloured stones in a variety of interesting and original designs. It seems that Thailand’s designers are slowly moving away from the idea of private label manufacturing—which the country is famous for because of the quality of Silver brooch with a special patina finish using an old Japanese technique by Goldlip.

Ruby and diamond necklace and ring in gold by Thai Gems Export.

Silver, gemstone, ne, and enamel earrings rings by Loytee.



Silver and gemstone necklace by Daeng Fashion.

Sapphire, ruby, and diamond earrings in gold by Beauty Gems.

Emerald, diamond, and white gold earrings by Samart Arts Jewelry.

An example of traditional Thai jewelry by Sukhothai Ancient.

production and labour skills—in favour of creating their own unique brands offering affo affordable luxury under their own names. Finally, the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT) conducted a seminar on “Creative Ruby and Sapphire Grouping for Traders and Consumers,” with the goal of increasing the understanding of and standardization within the industry regarding rubies and sapphires. This discussion centred on the topics of disclosure regarding enhancements and treatments, standardized laboratory reports, and uniform terminology to avoid confusion among gem laboratories, traders, and consumers. As for pricing, this was said to be left to market forces. The 48th edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Silver andd gemstone t earrings i by b Sophia S h & Karen Inter. Fair will be held September 14 to 18, 2011, where the creativity of Thai designers gners will once again be on parade. (All (A designs are from om Thai companies.) Silver ring by Brilliance Jewelry.

Gemstone and diamond necklace and earrings in gold by Duang Kaew Jewelry.

Gold and ruby necklace by Pranda. 88

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Record Turnout at the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show The March Hong Kong Jewellery Show, organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, set new records with some 37,000 buyers and more than 2,800 exhibitors during its five-day show. Clearly, optimism for a recovery in the sector is growing. Facetted heart shape diamond by Vulcan (Israel).

By Cynthia Unninayar Diamond and gold cuff by Jewelex (India).

Diamond earrings by Goldiaq (Hong Kong).

Model wearing a necklace and earrings, during the brand’s launch at the Hong Kong show, by Lili Jewelry (Israel).


Hong Kong was the prime destination in March for the gem and jewellery sector. Global in scope, the show featured some 2,830 exhibitors from 46 countries and regions (up by 200 over last year), making it the most international of the HKTDC’s fairs, as well as the largest. This international nature was also reflected in the 16-percent increase in the number of buyers, of which the number of overseas buyers increased by 23 percent, led by Hong Kong’s three major export markets for fine jewellery: the United States (22-percent increase), Switzerland (up 6 percent), and France (30-percent increase). Visitors from the emerging markets were also up, led by the BRIC nations: Brazil (up 29 percent), Russia (up 27 percent), India (up 41 percent), and China, with a 33-percent increase in buyers attending the show over last year. The export figures from Hong Kong, the world’s fourth-largest exporter of fine jewellery after Italy, the United States, and Switzerland, also confirm that the sector has been improving since the global economic crisis: exports of jewellery reached US$4.4 billion in 2010, a 21-percent increase by value over 2009, although still lower than the peak of US$5.2 billion seen for the first half of 2008 before the financial crisis hit. In terms of volume, the percentage increase was similar. What is driving these exports? During the opening ceremony, Lawrence Ma, chairman of the HKTDC Jewellery Advisory Committee, explained, “The upswing is driven, in good part, by the Chinese mainland and its growing appetite for jewellery. Last year, jewellery sales in China totalled around US$30 billion. And the mainland is expected to become the world’s biggest market for luxury goods over the next decade.”

Gemstone and gold rings in the unique “Embroidery” collection by Kimlai (Hong Kong).

Diamond “Africa Collection” pendant by E&V Jewellery (Hong Kong).

Aaron Shum, president of Aaron Shum Jewelry Ltd, and his wife, Alice Shum, with Katherine Tian Rigby, Miss Jewellery Hong Kong, during a dinner to celebrate the brand’s unique “Coronet Solitaire” winning the Hong Kong Top Brand Award 2010.

Diamond rings by House of Baguettes (USA).

Gold and coral coffee cup holder by Massimo Izzo (Italy).


marketplace Sapphire and diamond ring by arzano (Switzerland).

Diamond pendant by kama Schachter (India).

Diamond pendant by Fourever concept (Israel).

Diamond, enamel, and silk necklace by Graziella (Italy).

Diamond brooch by Green G (Hong kong).

Another part of Hong Kong’s increased exports is due to the recovery underway in the United States and the European Union, according to Ms. Margaret Fong, HKTDC deputy executive, who went on to discuss the increasing demand by Asia and the emerging markets. In particular, she explained that China has a 200 million-strong middle class, which is growing by one percent per year, and that this vast market already accounts for 15 percent of the world’s total luxury market. By 2020, this is expected to grow to 44 percent, thus overtaking Japan. In terms of the segmentation of Hong Kong’s jewellery exports, Fong went on to explain that gold and jade are the strongest categories, followed by diamonds, and diamonds set with yellow gold, with great demand coming from India and China. Pearls are also coming up due to the rise of South China cultured pearls, making Hong Kong now the trading and distribution centre for these living gems. On a more informal note, many exhibitors also indicated that demand from China is helping fuel the recovery in the gem and jewellery sector. A number of coloured stone and diamond dealers stated that business was brisk, with buyers coming largely from China and India. Notable also was the presence of so many jewellery exhibitors from Europe and the USA. Clearly, they are looking towards the thriving Asian market, following the economic crisis in the West where consumer spending has been greatly reduced. As a plus, having a presence at the Hong Kong fair offers the double advantage of potentially attracting the attention of not only the Asian buyers but also the many buyers who come from their home countries.

Diamond and keshi pearl ring by Baer Jewels (Hong kong). Diamond ring by christopher Designs (USa). Diamond ring by Simon G (USa). 92

marketplace multi-coloured gemstone brooch by H.H. Gems (Hong kong).

USB drives decorated with enamel and silver by Haz Jewellery Design (Hong kong).

Sapphire and golden pearl ring by Jewelmer.

In terms of European participation, Italy was designated as the show’s first “partner country,” and Italian designers offered an array of well-crafted and stylish jewellery that was featured at the “Jewels of Italy” gala dinner on March 5, as well as at the stands in the Italian pavilion. Other national pavilions included Brazil, China, Columbia, Germany, India, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Philippines, Singapore, Spain, Sri Lanka, Diamond pendant by kiran (India). Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey and the USA, as well as seven pavilions from trade organizations. (Hong kong). Among the highlights of the show was the Eighth International South Sea Pearl Jewellery Design Competition, sponsored by HKTDC and the South Sea Pearl Consortium. Another highlight was the Twelfth Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition, held under the theme “The Glory of Spring.” Organized by the HKTDC and a number of other Hong Kong jewellery-related organizations, the competition attracted more than 370 entries, from both student and open categories. Entries were judged on creativity and innovation, aesthetics and craftsmanship, marketability, wearability and topic relevance. In terms of colours and trends, just about everything could be seen in Hong Kong this March, from simple metal, to gemstone-set pieces, to elaborate coloured and diamond-studded creations. An array of stylish jewellery from designers around the globe offered something for every taste and pocketbook. One increasingly noticeable mini-trend, however, was multi-use and interchangeable jewellery, as well as the increasing sales of rough and included gems for direct use in jewellery. While these stones would have been discarded or ignored for jewellery use in the past, we have seen an increase in creative designs that seek to emphasize the beauty of these natural gems. A few of the many original and remarkable creations seen in Hong Kong in March are shown on these pages. The next edition of the HKTDC-sponsored fair will be held earlier next year, from February 16 to 20, 2012, due to changes in the international calendar of global jewellery fairs. Gold pendant by meira t (USa).

Opal and diamond ring by Dreamtime (Japan).

24k gold pendant by kings mark


emerald and diamond brooch by may Jewelry (Japan).

Alpilex Diamond MFG. BVBA Pelikaanstraat 78, Room 604-605, Box 140 2018 Antwerpen - Belgium 5FM t'BY



success stories Rings by Gumuchian.

Frasca Jewelers – Where They Know Your Name Exceptional Service. Exceptional Selection. Exceptional management—Maria Frasca exemplifies the word. By Diana S. Zimmerman

Left to right: Janet Salta, client, Maria Frasca, owner of Frasca Jewelers, and Armand Zaharian, designer at Frasca Jewelers.


Nestled in the shadow of the jagged mountains of Palm Desert, California, Frasca Jewelers is so much more than merely an upscale salon to purchase a spectacular piece of jewellery. It’s family to many of its loyal clientele, with exceptional service, selection, integrity, and expertise. It’s also a company that prides itself in knowing your name—whether you drop by once a year to purchase a gift, or once a week just to say hello. “We are proud of the collection of designers and jewellers represented in our salon,” says Maria Frasca, the founder and owner of this very special oasis in the desert. “For 26 years, we have brought our clientele the absolute best of everything—quality, design, and service”—three areas she is obsessive about. Maria considers her customers the real treasures in her store. “Everything we do is about giving the customer the best possible experience,” she insists. “They know we are always here for them.” “We look for styles from all over the globe—from luxury brands to boutique designers—to give our customers an extraordinary selection. There are literally 40 different styles represented in our store, from a few high profile designers to high-end New York diamond houses to the sexy Brazilian gold and coloured gemstone brands, to our own private custom designs.” Maria goes on to explain, “Although we carry classic diamond items, they will always have a bit of a twist to their look. For example, instead of the straight-on diamond tennis bracelet, we will show the client the ‘La Dolce Vita’ wave bracelet by Gumuchian—one of our favourite designers. It has ideal-cut round diamonds set in a wave of increasing and decreasing size diamonds. It’s very sexy. When can you ever say that about a tennis bracelet? In fact, it is always a pleasure showing Gumuchian jewellery to my clients. Besides knowing that the quality is superior, I am always confident that one of their pieces will delight my customers because the design stands out amongst the others. Originality is always a Gumuchian trait.” “In 1988, we started noticing the introduction of ‘brands.’ I brought in every major designer I could sign up, and discovered that I preferred the smaller designers, as I like to have a personal relationship with them. I especially enjoy finding designers

La Dolce Vita bracelet/earrings by Gumuchian

who are yet to be discovered—maybe they have no advertising budget, maybe they don’t have a U.S. presence. Some I find at the trades shows, others come to me,” she muses. “Our philosophy is to be a small boutique that offers a big selection, including a full-service design and repair department,” Maria continues. “Our store is small and friendly. We sell ourselves first, and then we sell our jewellery—always with an eye toward the perfect look for our client. Everyone who shops here on a regular basis finds that we help them establish a look that is just for them. I find that, without us acting as their stylist, clients tends to stay in their comfort zone and buy virtually the same shape or style over and over again. We help them broaden their search to include colour or gemstones, and stay abreast of the trends.” As for marketing, Maria prefers intimate luncheons or dinner parties for twenty people. Depending upon the designer, it could be at a swank country club or, as she puts it, “a rollicking time in my home.” Sometimes she sets up a little open house in the courtyard next to her salon. “Our core clientele are generous about sending in their friends and family to shop here. All in all, we are not about mass-produced designs or big marketing events. It is all very personal here.”  Every successful business understands its client base, and Maria Frasca is no exception. She takes great pride in knowing her clients and what they want—sometimes even more than they do. Whether it’s a grandmother looking for a graduation gift, or a young couple looking for the perfect diamond engagement ring, Maria treasures each of them. “A great selection is important,” she says, “but in the end, it’s exceptional service that creates loyal customers.” It’s also exceptional management—and that one word personifies Maria—an exceptional lady with an exceptional gift for making everyone feel important. So stop by when you’re in the area—she’ll know your name! ( 97

success stories Gold, enamel, quartz, and diamond ring by Ramon.

Leonardo Jewelers – Exceptionally Focused on the Customer When Leonardo Zeik opened his passion for fine jewellery—combined determination, and compassion for long and amazing journey, one that second generation.

From left to right: Leonardo Zeik, founder of Leonardo Jewelers, his wife Lourdes, the Mayor of Red Bank the Honorable Pasquale Menna, son Michael Zeik, and son Leo Zeik.

Left to right: Kathy Dougherty (a customer), Marilyn Morgovsky (a staff member), and Lourdes Zeik-Chivi (one of the owners) during one of many trunk shows. 98

first store in 1964, his with a strong work ethic, others—started him on a continues today with the

By Cynthia Unninayar The story of Leonardo Jewelers reads like the American Dream. A young immigrant from Cuba, Leonardo Zeik arrived in the United States in the early 1960s with a wife, four young children, and no money. To provide for his family, he found a job in a factory, working two back-to-back shifts. After these gruelling 80-hour weeks, he began selling jewellery door-to-door to other Cuban immigrants. By 1964, Zeik saved up enough money to open a store in his hometown of Elizabeth, New Jersey. Originally called Joyeria Leonardo, the store was small with only one counter for jewellery and watches. The rest was packed with necessities that other Cuban immigrants would need, such as toasters, refrigerators, furniture, and clothing. Zeik understood only too well the hardships faced by these new arrivals, and he did his best to help them. As his son Michael explains, “His store was a place where Cuban-Americans who didn’t have established credit, couldn’t speak English, or didn’t have the cash to pay for their necessities, were offered credit with no questions asked. He didn’t even charge interest on their debt. A handshake to repay whatever they could afford on a weekly basis was all he asked.” Many of these original customers, their children, and grandchildren have remained loyal clients of Leonardo Jewelers. By the end of the 1960s, Zeik eliminated the furniture, appliance and clothing lines to focus on high-end jewellery and Swiss watches. The store quickly gained a reputation for having some of the highest quality pieces to be found anywhere. During the 1970s, the store expanded beyond its original Cuban-American customer base, and Leonardo Zeik became one of the first U.S. retailers to travel to Europe in search of fine jewellery. “In Europe, our father met and forged relationships with the finest goldsmiths and designers,” says daughter Lourdes. “Now, 45 years later, we continue to scour the planet for new and exciting jewellery brands whose attention to detail, beauty, and quality are unparalleled. Sometimes they are new designers who

have strokes of genius and are one-trickponies, so to speak. Others are consistent in their quality and creativity. One brand that offers consistency in its products is Ramon.” Ramon’s jewellery speaks for itself in the showcases at Leonardo Jewelers, as Lourdes goes on to add, “The quality, design, and finish of Ramon’s pieces are among the most beautiful and wellfinished pieces in the industry. The brand’s designs have stood the test of time. They are created for the ages.” It has been more than a decade ago since the elder Zeik passed the business onto his children—Ivette, Leo, Lourdes, Michael, and Vivian. Inheriting more than just a successful business, the second generation also received their father’s passion for quality and craftsmanship as well as his commitment to customer service. Today, Leonardo Jewelers has two large and respected locations in New Jersey, Elizabeth and Red Bank. In addition to jewellery, the stores carry an Pink gold and diamond impressive range of watches, a bracelet by Ramon. watch repair centre, and a major jewellery repair centre, as well as a studio design centre to help clients with special pieces. “Our aim is to provide our customers with a wide selection of jewellery and watches, and a warm atmosphere in which to conduct our business,” says Michael. “Because we are a true family-owned business, our customers always have an opportunity to work with one of the owners. We strive to make a visit to our stores a very pleasant experience, like one would expect when visiting friends.” Treating customers like friends also extends to giving back to the community. As immigrants, Leonardo Zeik and his children are grateful for the opportunities provided by their adopted country, and support a number of worthy causes in their area. Daughter Vivian explains, “We help a number of groups but our main focus is on the Monmouth County Cancer Society and the Trinitas Medical Center, the local hospital, as well as the Fisher House that provides assistance to military families caring for their medical needs. For us, it is a win-win situation since sales at special events also generate extra donations for a number of organizations.” Clearly, the sense of service to the community and to the customer is what distinguishes Leonardo Jewelers. Of prime importance is also providing good quality products, which meet the needs of their clients. And, while the Zeik’s search for the best jewellery and watches is an ongoing endeavour and their collections continue to grow and evolve, the mantra of Leonardo Jewelers always remains the same: It’s not about selling just a product. It’s about selling the right product and having exceptional customer service. (

The front of Leonardo Jewelers’ store in Elizabeth, New Jersey

The outside of the Leonardo Jewelers store in Red Bank, New Jersey.

Inside the Leonardo Jewelers Red Bank store.



Brazil Hosts 14th ICA Congress Rio de Janeiro, one of the world’s most beautiful cities, was the venue for the 14th biennial Congress of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA), with the global theme of ethical mining and fair trade, held April 30 to May 4, 2011. By Cynthia Unninayar

Barbara Wheat, ICA executive director, addresses the audience.

One of the speaker panels, left to right: Terry Coldham, Asraf Sultan, Michael Haag, Benjamin Hackman, Sushil Goya, Wilson Yuen, Jean Claude Michelou, Clement Sabbagh, Edward Boehm.

The 14th ICA Congress opened under warm sunny skies at the Sofitel Hotel overlooking Rio’s famous Copacabana Beach. Organized in collaboration with the Brazilian Jewellery and Gems Trade Association (IBGM), the event attracted several hundred attendees from the world’s major gem mining, production, and trade centres. “Brazil has become an important player in the worldwide gem and jewellery industry,” said Wilson Yuen, ICA president. “The continuous proactive international involvement of IBGM with the industry is a major factor in the development and growth of the Brazilian gem sector, as well as its jewellery manufacturing trade throughout the world.” “As an emerging world leader in the field of ethical mining and fair trade, Brazil has the opportunity to promote a global exchange in search of certification models and parameters that strengthen this action,” explained Hécliton Santini Henriques, IBGM president. 100

Brazil Is Booming There have been a lot of changes in Brazil since the ICA held its first Congress in Belo Horizonte in 1997. During the first day of presentations, speakers talked about the nation’s thriving trade from mine to market, which is expected to grow even more over the next two decades. With a US$2 trillion GDP, Brazil is the eighth largest economy in the world, sixth largest in purchasing power, making it a key player in the global economy. In the gem and jewellery sector, Brazil counts 15,000 companies, of which 12,000 are retailers, 2,150 manufacture fashion and plated jewellery, 900 produce gold and silver pieces, and 450 cut and polish gemstones. Nearly 75 percent of the industry is comprised of small and medium enterprises. Sales for the sector in 2010 totalled US$6.5 billion (including $2.8 billion in retail), with exports of US$2.2 billion, up from US$1.7 billion in 2009. “Brazilian brands are being recognized worldwide

for their unique design, sensibility, and charisma,” adds Henriques. He sees Brazilian jewellery positioned in the mid-range, between the very high-end and lower-cost classic jewellery. As the fifth largest country in size, Brazil is well endowed with natural resources including some 100 different gem types—notably tourmaline, topaz, opal, quartz varieties, and emerald. Brazil exports about 80 percent of what it produces, but its local market for colour continues to grow with its middle class. Nine local productive clusters in seven Brazilian states help formalize small mining coops through programs with SEBRAE (Brazilian Service of Support for Micro and Small Enterprises). According to Adriano Campos, investment promotions for Apex, the country’s trade and promotion agency, “Brazil’s $1.3 trillion economy is bigger than those of India and Russia, and its per-capita income is nearly twice that of China. Economists and social scientists say the booming

Congress attendees visit the Gem Fair booths.

Jean Claude Michelou, ICA vice president, addressing the ICA Congress.

Bi-colour tourmalines by BC Gems, one of the Gem Fair exhibitors (photo: Gary Roskin) Smoky quartz, diamond, and gold earrings by Monte Carlo Jóias, a leading retailer in Brazil.

Left to right: Wilson Yuen, ICA president, Carla Pinheiro, AJORIO president, Claudia Lamassa, head designer for Monte Carlo Jóias, Hécliton Santini Henriques, IBGM president.

trade-oriented economy and innovative government programs are lifting millions from poverty.” An example of this can be seen in the efforts of FIRJAN (Federation of Industries of the State of Rio de Janeiro), working to create a positive environment for the industrial sector. FIRJAN also helps in refurbishing lowincome neighbourhoods and increasing police presence to diminish drug trafficking and violent crimes. Part of its efforts are directed at promoting athlete programs for kids, literacy programs, senior activities, health care, etc. To assist in ongoing efforts, one of ICA’s major Congress sponsors, Hong Kongbased Lorenzo Jewelry presented the agency with a check for $30,000. ICA president Wilson Yuen has pledged to $50,000 over the next ten years, with $5,000 per year to help FIRJAN in its worthy efforts. Additional presentations highlighted the innovative and distinctive work of jewellery brands such as H.Stern and Antonio Bernardo, which bring to life original jewellery products that celebrate Brazilian gemstones and “Brazilian Style.” On the retail front, Monte Carlo Jóias is a leading jeweller with 30 locations in Brazil, 15 of which opened in the past two years. The retailer is a

good example of the rising strength of the local market in a growing nation forecasted to experience tremendous development over the next decade. MCJ is known for its use of Brazilian gems in designs that are both timeless and daring, of exceptional quality, and affordable prices. Ethics and Events Second day topics continued the ethics theme with presentations by industry leaders including Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri, president of CIBJO, on the role of associations for poverty reduction and consumer confidence; Michael Rae, CEO of the Responsible Jewellery Council, on the achievements and challenges surrounding fair trade certification in the jewellery industry; and Eli Izhakoff, World Diamond Council CEO and chairman, on the Kimberley Process, who stated, “When consumers buy jewellery, they should know that not only is it an expression of value, beauty, and emotion, but they have contributed to making a better life for people who need it most dearly.” In addition to a full agenda of presentations, panel discussions, and social/cultural events, more than forty of Brazil’s most significant producers and exporters of coloured gemstones exhibited their products exclusively for

Left to right: Andrew Cody, former ICA president, Eli Izhakoff, World Diamond Council CEO, Alexander Popov, Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO president.

Congress delegates at a special gem fair. “The Congress venue offered the ideal setting for the show in a secure, convenient, and friendly environment,” said Clement Sabbagh, ICA director and Congress chairman. The program also included interactive Business Matching sessions designed to assist Congress participants interested in establishing new business opportunities. “Business took place between delegates, Brazilians and foreigners, members and non-members of ICA,” indicated Oscar Bouza, international division IBGM. “We wanted to maximize our time together and this dynamic marketing tool provided immediate results.” This year’s ICA Congress featured many firsts for the Association, among them the launch of its first “Colored Gemstone Jewelry Design Award” contest, as well as the continuing International Poster Competition. Also honoured during the Gala dinner were two recipients of the ICA Lifetime Achievement Award: Paolo Valentini, ICA founding member and past president, for his service to the gem trade; and Hécliton Santini Henriques, IBGM president for his work promoting colour. Serena Tanaka was given a special Honorary ICA Lifetime Achievement Award for her remarkable efforts in helping Brazilians entering the Japanese market 101

events Display at the Gem Fair booth of Ben Sabbagh Bros, showing jewellery by Odara, as well as various gemstones.

It wasn’t all work at the Congress. Participants get a samba lesson at the Rio Scenarium.

Translation booth at the ICA Congress, where simultaneous translations were done in several languages. Marcelo Ribeiro, director of Belmont Group, addressing the Congress.

Relaxing during dinner, Pavel Sokolov, ICA Ambassador to Russia, centre, with his wife Olga left, and Olga Gladkaya of Intergem.

Overcoming Challenges An impressive line-up of speakers shared insights and success stories that highlighted how the coloured stone industry can overcome challenges to fair trade certification and advance ethical concepts for the benefit of the entire supply chain. The types of challenges faced by the diamond industry are not completely foreign to the coloured stone business. Several years ago, the tanzanite industry faced scrutiny when the Tanzanian gem was accused of being used to finance terrorist groups. In recent years, concerns surround rubies from Burma, embargoed by the United States to create economic pressure on the nation’s military junta. And, allegations of links between drug cartels and the emerald trade have surfaced time and again in Colombia. But unlike diamonds, stated Jean Claude Michelou, ICA vice president, in the coloured stone industry: there is no centralized marketing and price control; many varieties of gems come from hundreds of countries with myriad cultures and standards; and 80 percent of production is erratic, lacking investment capacity, and performed by artisanal or small-scale miners in third-world countries. Yet, despite these difficulties, many initiatives are 102

Well known Brazilian designer, Antonio Bernardo, centre, with Cynthia Unninayar, CIJ Trends & Colours editor, left, and Angela Andrade of AJORIO.

making a difference. One success story in establishing protocols and dealer warrantees was achieved for tanzanite in 2002 by a coalition of industry groups and representatives. In partnership with governments and NGOs, they were able to address the unfounded accusations that the gem was funding terrorist activities. Douglas Hucker, CEO of the American Gem Trade Association, shared the steps undertaken to vindicate the gem, fortify export documentation, and create a set of policies to ensure the legitimacy of the supply chain. He noted that the task was easier, however, than for a gem such as ruby because tanzanite is only found in Tanzania. Other examples are found in the efforts of Gemfields, a London-based coloured gemstone producer. According to CEO Ian Harebottle, it’s all about being green, socially, environmentally, and transparently—the true beauty of gems lies in the manner in which they’re managed. Referring to its Kagem emerald and Karibam amethyst mines in Zambia, he cited partnerships as critical, noting that 25 percent and 50 percent of the mines, respectively, are owned by the government. The company also focuses on sustainability and social projects such as supporting schools, medical clinics, and local organic farming. It also works to minimize its

impact on the natural surroundings by planting trees and filling old mining pits with water and fish. Marcelo Ribeiro, director of Belmont Group, an emerald mine in Brazil, mused, “In mining, more money can go into the ground than come out of it. So, you should not act as a treasure hunter, but as an investor, managing risks in pursuit of profitability.” He advocates investment in environmental preservation, geological surveys, and mining feasibility, as well as building infrastructure for the mining community and forming coops for smallscale operations. From a retailer’s perspective, Steve Bennett, president of Color Rocks Limited and GemsTV based in London, believes that the more you tell the more you sell. Stories about mine safety improvements, certification, local community projects, and information on miners resonate with consumers. He buys gems directly from miners whenever possible and is working to create coops to help small to medium mining operations sell their goods via organized auctions to ensure fair prices and better exposure to potential buyers. The venue and theme for the 2013 ICA Congress will be announced in the coming months. ( All photos by Paulo Cartolano, unless otherwise specified.












EDITORIAL & ADVERTISERS INDEX Aaron Shum 91 AG Color 58, 93 Akiva Gil 75 Alpilex 95 Amrapali 64 Anne Sportun 69 Antonini 28, 66 Antonio Bernardo 9, 34 Arzano 92 Assael 32, 62, 64, 69, 75 Autore 32, 69 Baer Jewels 76, 92 Baggins 69 Bagues 62 Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair 83 Bapalal Keshavlal CIII, 107 BC Gems 101 Ben Sabbagh Bros 104 Bergio 40, 41 Bibigi 73 Bizzotto 36, 37 BK Jewellery 55 Breuning 44, 45 Brosway 66 Brumani 26, 50, 51 Bruner 24, 27, 33 Buccellati CIV Cai 78 Campbell Bridges Exploration 63 Carelle 71

Carla Amorim 38, 39, 54 Carrera y Carrera 80 Casato 28 Chamilia 82 Chopard 63, 78 Christian Tse 72, 75 Christopher Designs 92 Clementina Duarte 70, 77 Commelin 75 Constantin Wild 71 Daniel Espinosa 28 David Lin Jades 66 D-Duke 80 de Grisogono 63 Diamonds for a Cure 66 Diarough 79 Dreamtime 94 E&V Jewellery 91 Emiko Pearls 69 Erica Courtney 28, 66 Faraone 73 Fatimah Sewani 63 Forever Jewels 77 Fourever Concept 92 Franco P 78 Galliano/Damiani 82 Garaude 70, 82 Gaspari 14, 15 Gavello 75 Georland 75, 79 Giovanni Ferraris 70

Goldesign 70 Goldiaq 90 Graziella 92 Green G 56, 76, 92 Gumuchian 5, 60, 70, 96, 97 Gurhan 30 H.H. Gems 94 Haz Jewellery Design 94 Helmuth 64 Hidalgo 29, 57 Hong Kong and Jewellery Gem Fair 84, 85 House of Baguettes 91 IBGM 6, 7, 22 IIJS / IIJW 81, 103 Isabelle Langlois 73 J Jewels Milano 64 James Kaya 70 Jane Taylor 67 Jewelex 90 Jewellery Theatre 63, 67 Jewelmer 23, 42, 68, 94 John Apel 71 John Dyer 67 K9 Jewels 79 Kama Schachter 92 Kavant 62, 68 Kerri Halpern 62 Kimlai 91 Kings Mark 94 Kiran 94

Kirk Kara 72 Kuwayama 82 Le Vian 65 Leaderline 67, 74 Leading Italian Jewels 18 Lili Jewelry 90 Links of London 16, 17, 54 Lithos Jewelry 69 Lorenz Baumer 65, 77 Lornie Mueller 69 Louis Vuitton 24 M.C.L. 64 Magerit 73, 77 Manya & Roumen 28 Mario Buzzanca 28, 68 Mark Schneider 69 Masriera 32, 74 Massimo Izzo 91 Mastoloni 68 Mathon Paris 30, 74 Mattioli 24 May Jewelry 71, 94 Meira T 94 Miiori 75 Misaki 68 Monte Carlo J贸ias 101 Montegrappa 76 MVee 26, 57, 59, 62, 65 Nanis 70 Natalie K 67 Niche Show 106

Nouvelle Bague 19 Odara 104 OGI 76 Omi Gems 72 On Going Jewellery 70 Opera Omnia CI, 3, 12, 13, 30, 32 Oscar Heyman 72 Pacoma 69 Palmiero 79 Pamela Froman 76 Pamela Huizenga 43, 54, 61 Pasquale Bruni 74 Phantasya 82 Piaget 63, 67 Piat 76 Ponte Vecchio 65, 67 Porchet 68 Porrati 73 Pranda 74 Ramon 82, 98, 99 Rebecca 10, 11, 26, 80 Reena Ahulwalia 69 Rhonda Faber Green 62 Rina Limor 35, 58, 72, 75 Roberto Bravo 75 Roberto Coin 62, 66 Rodney Rayner 71 Rosato 82 Rosy Blue 89 Sant 26

Sara Gems 73 Sartoro 65 Schoeffel 32 Schreiner 73, 74 Sharart 62 Simon G 92 Staurino 80 Suna Bros 74 Suzy Landa 71 Swarovski 105 Syna 71 Taka-Art-Craft 80 Talento 66 Talento Joias 30 Tara 68 Thistle & Bee 31, 56 Tournaire 80 Tresor 24, 46, 47, 71 TT F Studio 80 Utopia 82 Vajra 32 Van Cleef & Arpels 63 Vendorafa CII, 21, 22 Vianna 52, 53, 73, 77 Victor Mayer 63, 76, 78 Vulcan 90 Yael Designs 77 Yael Sonia 26, 48, 49 Yvel 25, 69 Zannetti 65 Zorab 64, 67 Zydo 72

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NICHE: The Show is an exclusive

June 4-6, 2011

collection of artist-designers from Planet Hollywood Celebrity Ballroom (Mezzanine Level) the U.S. and Canada presenting fine handcrafted jewelry, glass,


ceramic and wood objects to

Complimentary registration for qualified retailers.

qualified retailers from across

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CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS Summer 2011  

International Jewellery trends & colours

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