case is in silver as in days of yore, is raised and pivots around on an axis at 12 o’clock thus evoking the intended spirit of the pocket-watch in both design and in its use of silver. The 40mm round case rests on a square plate with trimmed corners and circular-grained decoration. The silver surfaces are protected by a palladium treatment that eliminates oxidation and the screws, on one side of the case and on the attachments, are made of steel. The unusual looking grey dial with its cut-away circles, semi-circles and tourbillion aperture, has a sunray satin finish with handpolished angles. The Volteface 180° watch houses the new MR03 Manufacture calibre which has a 96-hour power reserve. This manually-wound movement with Côtes de Genève decoration on the brass plate and brass bridges that have a sanded finish, is regulated by the tourbillon which has an escape wheel and anchor in silicon and is equipped with a special module synchronising the display of the hours and minutes on both faces. The watch is water-
62 BASELWORLD REPORT / europa star
I The two sides and pivoting movement of Manufacture Royale’s Volteface 180º
T Valbray’s Oculus V01 Special Edition Argentique showing the two positions of the diaphragm.
resistant to 30 metres and comes with an alligator strap. My last visit of 2013 was to Valbray where I met the co-founders, Olga Corsini and Côme de Valbray. Their association began in 2009 when they met by chance and discovered a mutually profound interest in horology and a shared desire to express their creativity as independents. Olga, a jewellery designer at that time, showed Côme her spiral sea-shells designs and he immediately made the association with the diaphragm system in cameras as photography is one of his passions. Thus, Valbray was born. After two years of research and development, the innovative obturator system of Valbray was finally patented in 2010. The completely hidden system comprises 16 ultra-thin blades integrated into a rotating bezel that opens and closes the diaphragm as the bezel is manually turned. Completely open the blades disappear to reveal a 30 mm dial. The bezel is waterproof and entirely independent of the watch movement. The entire collection is equipped with a unique automatic Swiss chronograph
calibre V.CA1 movement with a rotor based on a ceramic ball bearing, increasing considerably the rotation reliability and the torque transmission. The rotor’s arms are designed to absorb the radial shock and are hand-finished and the mass has a Côtes de Genève decoration. The case is in stainless steel with a sun-brushed bezel and the dial and shutter blades are black – as is the integrated alligator strap. This complex and intriguing timepiece has a long assembly process, each movement and diaphragm passing through a battery of stringent tests to ensure reliability and accuracy. As I closed the shutters for the last time, the thought came to me that this was a particularly appropriate gesture to end my few days at BaselWorld.
Conclusion BaselWorld was amazing this year with its glitz, glamour and technical innovations – and that was just the exhibitor’s architectural creations. There were, of course, thousands of timepieces of which only a handful have been mentioned, but this event is not only about watches, it is also about the people who create them, the designers, the technicians, the manufacturers, the unsung horological heroes who year after year bring something new to our magical universe. It is they who make this annual merry-go-round the must that it is. Watches may be BaselWorld’s raison d’être, but without the people and their innate passion for the intricacies of time you might just as well attend the annual convention of robots. Until next year then … p
Find the brands mentioned at www.europastar.com/brand-index