recently reviewed EDITED BY JESSICA BRYCE YOUNG
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The price range generally reflects the average cost of one dinner entree. Bakeries, ice cream shops, etc. reflect relative cost for one person. Search hundreds more reviews at orlandoweekly.com
LUKE’S KITCHEN AND BAR
There’s nothing novel at James Beard Award nominee Brandon McGlamery’s Maitland resto, but there’s plenty good – from the design to the cocktail program to such dishes as diver scallop ceviche, flavorful bone-in ribeye, and stellar swordfish. Meats like to get plonked atop starches and veggies here BTW. More goodness: Peppery (though expensive) crab cake and the au poivre burger, which is our new favorite. Desserts won’t thrill, but they do satisfy. Open daily. 640 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-674-2400; $$$$
HUNGER STREET TACOS
The gourmet taco trend gains traction at Hunger Street Tacos, named after the famed Mexico City strip. Brisket, chorizo and chicken tinga tacos are twice-tortillaed in proper fashion. Vegan (sautéed hibiscus taco) and vegetarian options (squash blossom quesadilla; vegetable tinga) will please the meatless crowd. Desserts like chocoflan and Key lime pie with toasted meringue are more than just mere afterthoughts. Closed Sundays. 2103 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-545-5998; $
CHEF ART SMITH’S HOMECOMIN’
Celebrity chef Art Smith returns to Disney with his aptly named restaurant showcasing all that’s good about Southern fare. His near-legendary fried chicken (get it with house-made doughnuts), shrimp and grits, fried catfish, chicken and dumpling soup, and pimento cheese keep the masses at Disney Springs fat and happy. A few bites of that hummingbird cake will definitely slow the pace of your park perambulations. There’s a nice selection of moonshine cocktails, too. Open daily. Disney Springs, 1602 E. Buena Vista Drive, 407-560-0100; $$$
IPHO NOODLE HOUSE
Vietnamese fare comes to Maitland with this second outpost of the Lake Mary original iPho. The interior won’t lift your spirits, but a savory golden pancake folded with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts will. Same goes for their signature pho – the broth veers toward the sweeter side, but it’s hearty and can be made heartier with
the addition of oxtail. Bracing beef and pork noodle soup with lemongrass is a cold-sufferer’s delight. Don’t overlook their clay pots, and ask for the banh mi menu if you’re not handed one. Open daily. 156 Lake Ave., Maitland, 321-422-0181; $
AUTHENTIC CUISINE FROM CENTRAL VIETNAM
CHROMA MODERN BAR + KITCHEN
The modern kitchen anchoring Lake Nona Town Center’s ultra-modern landscape serves up some time-honored dishes courtesy of chef Jason Bergeron. Succulent short-rib sliders, lamb ribs, littleneck clams and luxuriant bone marrow make sharing joyfully gratifying. Lackluster desserts could use some inspiration, but it won’t tarnish Chroma’s sheen. Open daily. 6967 Lake Nona Blvd., 407-955-4340; $$
Come visit us for Lunch & Dinner
Mills 50 1216 East Colonial Dr LOT #7 Orlando, FL 32803 (407) 704-1332
MAESTRO CUCINA NAPOLETANA
Rosario Spagnolo returns to Park Avenue in this joint venture with fellow Neapolitan Antonio Martino. What you get is an expected blend of authenticity and populist fare, and it’s a mix that doesn’t disappoint. Sure, better Neapolitan pizzas can be had elsewhere, but you won’t find a better space in which to enjoy a slice of pie, or antipasti, pasta con polpette or spezzatino di vitello. Open daily. 528 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-335-4548; $$
DOMU
Popular ramen joint lives up to the hype offering near-perfect bowls of tonkotsu, shoyu, miso and curry ramen. There’s an uni pasta for those who want to forgo broth for the richness of sea urchin, but don’t overlook other soupless options like the crackling good Korean fried chicken with Korean butter sauce and the grilled octopus. Cocktails are taken seriously here. 3201 Corrine Drive, 407-960-1228; $$
THE STUBBORN MULE
Dishes veer toward the weighty, and beverages toward the crafty. Fried Wisconsin cheese curds and equally addicting pork belly slicked in an “Asian” sticky sauce make fine starters, while burgers and Reuben tacos make fine entrée choices. Ending with a cronut topped with vanilla bean ice cream will only cement your decision to return. Closed Mondays. 100 S. Eola Drive, 407-930-1166; $$$
BULLA GASTROBAR
South Florida Spanish joint serves up some mighty fine tapas and tipples. Chef Felix Plasencia gets it going with marvy croquetas, stellar octopus salad, and pintxos of charcoal-fired cuminmarinated pork. For more substantial plates, consider the seafood paella, arroz marinero cooked with plankton, and the red snapper fired up in a charcoal oven. Torrijas (Spanish-style French toast) drizzled with honey and served with turrón ice cream is our choice to end the meal. Open daily. 110 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 321-214-6120; $$$ n
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APRIL 12-18, 2017 ● ORLANDO WEEKLY
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