Page 1

BATH


Thanks to all the people who helped me and put up with me during the development of this project, my family and friends in Madrid and in Bath. Printed in Madrid, May 2013.

© 2013 Hit the railway. City guides © of the original idea, texts, images, layout and design: Estrella Mera Designed and edited in Bath, UK May 2013 ISBN 977-2-15776-093-1 Printed by: Gráficas Hervi Printed in Madrid, Spain


INDEX 6 8 10 14 16

City of Bath

18 20 22 24 26

Arrival

28 30 32 40

Discover the city

44 46 52 54 56 60

Where to go

64 66 70 72

Various

Hi! A slice of history An architectural city Geographical crossword

How to get to Bath Parts of the city Where to sleep People in Bath

Getting started Places to see Bath´s gymkana

Museums Time for an english meal Fancy a coffee? Let´s go shopping Nightlife in Bath

Festivals The University More random stuff


6

City of Bath


City of Bath

CITY OF BATH Hi! A slice of history An architectural city Geographical crossword

7


8

City of Bath

HI! If Bath pops up as an option to your travels make sure to go for it. I can guarantee that you will come to love this place. Small and poetic, romantic and nostalgic, Bath is an easy place to walk about and, if it’s done properly, it sure will put a spell on you. Declared a Unesco World Heritage Site, Bath is steeped in cultural and artistic atmosphere rich in tradition and history. The city has many things to offer to both citizens and visitors alike; from traditionally English cafes to pubs with various music gigs played throughout the week, and restaurants with all kinds of food. Except for the tourist storming the city all year around, Bath has a large student community because of the Universities of Bath and Bath Spa, which is considered to be a leading university in humanities in Europe. It also has a school of arts and design that oozes creativity throughout its walls. At any rate the main tourist attraction is the spring waters that the city "Bath" was named for. One curiosity is that, if you take a close look at the map of the city, you will soon realize that it has the form of a heart. Maybe that might be the reason why nearly everybody who comes to Bath falls in love with this great place.

You can go to some cities and get the measure of them in moments. Bath is a bit deeper than that.


City of Bath

9


10

City of Bath

A SLICE OF HISTORY Throughout the centuries the citizens of Bath left their traditional and historical print on significant monuments, buildings and other architectural niceties. The Roman Baths, The Abbey Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul - known as Bath Abbey and the splendid Royal Crescent, are a few places worth visiting. In the first century the Romans occupied England and they discovered natural hot springs that bubbled up hot water constantly. Because of its steady temperature and very rich minerals, they found out that the hot spring had healing properties and thus the Romans decided to build the baths. Not long after that a town called Aquae Sulis begun to grow and prosper around this. By the IV century the old Roman street pattern had been lost and Bath became a royal possession. In the Burghal Hidage, Bath is described to having walls of 1,375 yards (1,257 m) long. At the time one thousand men guarded the city. During the reign of Edward the Elder, coins were minted in the town, based on a design from the Winchester mint with ‘BAD’ written on the obverse. This text was related to the AngloSaxons name for the town Baðum, Baðan or Baðon, meaning “at the baths,” and this was the source of

the present name. In 973 in Bath Abbey Edgar of England was crowned king of England. In 1590 Bath was granted city status by Royal charter by Queen Elizabeth I. In the sixteen century, Bath Abbey was finished and in 1776 the ornate Guildhall was built. As the eighteencentury rolled around Bath was transformed from a small, dirty little market town into the beautiful Georgian city we know of today. Under the influence of Richard Beau Nash, Bath became the centre of the social universe. Thrown out from the naval college and broke, but having a clever mind and sharp tongue, he came to Bath, spoke to the right people - at the right time - and became the organizer of all the social activities that would take place in the city. He also managed to ban the duels, an action that was practiced in the city for many centuries. Bath played a very important role in the development of the British postal service. Ralph Alan expanded established routes, stamped out corruption and created a stagecoach connection between Bristol, Bath and London. John Palmer introduced mail coaches something that made the service more efficient.


City of Bath

Beau Nash &

DUELS

On witnessing a duel with swords, Richard Beau Nash, denounced them as barbaric butchery and banned them. But before he did so an aristocrat slapped his faces, called him a coward and asked him to a duel. Beau Nash slapped him back and accepted the challenge. They fought a twenty minutes duel in Orange Grove until Beau Nash suffered from a wound to his arm. He then stopped the fight, stated that he had proven he wasn’t a coward and went on to ban the duels finally.

11


12

City of Bath

During the 18th and 19th centuries, Bath turn into a cultural centre attracting writers such as Jane Austen, Oliver Goldsmith, and later Charles Dickens. Artist Thomas Gainsborough, poets William Wordsworth, Richard Brinsley Sheriden and Walter Savage Landor and actors David Garrick and Sarah Siddons, they all visited and lived in the city. In World War II, an attack called, Bath Blitz, had damaged the city seriously. When the war ended there was a formal review and shortage of housing was exposed. As a result vast areas of Bath were cleared and redeveloped. Much of the buildings that were built were belonged to the council but despite being economical they were not a very attractive in style. During the 1970’s, priorities shifted from the building of houses to the preservation of historical buildings. This move was so successful that in 1987 Bath was declared a World Heritage Site.

Some addresses to

REMEMBER


City of Bath

WWII

During World War II, between the evening of 25 April and the early morning of 27 April 1942, Bath suffered three air raids - in reprisal for RAF raids on the German cities of L端beck and Rostock - part of the Luftwaffe campaign known as the Baedeker Blitz. They gave it that name because the Germans used the Baedeker travel guides to choose the most beautiful cities in England as their targets. Bath Blitz killed 400 people and damaged or destroyed over 19,000 buildings. Houses in the Royal Crescent, Circus and Paragon got on fire along with the Assembly Rooms.

13


14

City of Bath

AN ARCHITECTURAL CITY Most of the buildings in Bath are made from the local Stone that is golden in color. Georgian is the dominant architectural style, which evolved from the Palladian revival style that became popular in the early 18th century. Important buildings include the Roman Baths; Pulteney Bridge, designed by the neoclassical architect Robert Adam and based on the Ponte Vecchio in Florence; and Bath Abbey in the city centre, founded in 1499 on the site of an 8th century church. Of equal importance are the residential buildings. Georgian architects John Wood the Elder and his son John Wood the Younger designed and built boulevards and crescents. They built the Royal Crescent and The Circus around 1760 and 1770. In the Circus, each of the three curved segments faces one of the entrances, ensuring that there is always a classical facade facing the entering visitor. Bath Spa railway station is the main station in Bath. Brunel built it in 1840. In the 1920s and 1930s, Bath’s architectural traditions combined an art deco style in buildings such as the Forum, which in 1934 opened its doors as a 2,000-seat cinema. In the 1960s and early 1970s

some parts of Bath were redeveloped in a postwar style. There were plans to demolish large swathes of artisan housing to provide the city with newer houses with better facilities. But these thoughts led to a popular campaign to complain of the way the city was being developed, which in 1973 drew strength from the publication of Adam Fergusson’s, The Sack of Bath. In his book he illustrates the ongoing destruction of Bath and issues a heartfelt plea for more sensible measures to be considered, such as renovation and preservation. Since 2000, developments have included the Bath Spa, Southgate, and the Bath Western Riverside project.

The many examples of Palladian architecture are integrated with the urban spaces to provide picturesque aestheticism.


City of Bath

15


City of Bath

GEOGRAPHICAL CROSSWORD Check interesting geographical facts of the city of Bath with this entertaining crossword. Maybe you will have to wait until the end of your journey to discover all of the missing words, or maybe you are so informed already and you will be able to fill it before the tour. 1. The name of the elongated lowland where Bath is situated. 2. A sedimentary rock formed from ooids, spherical grains composed of concentric layers. 3. Chemical compound with the formula CaCO3. It is a common substance found in rocks in all parts of the world, and is the main component of shells, marine organisms, snails, coal balls, pearls, and eggshells.

7. An opening in the earth's crust through which molten lava, ash, and gases could be ejected, but it is not currently active, fortunately. 8. A range of hills in southwestern and west-central England. Its name is sometimes attributes the meaning, “sheep enclosure in rolling hillsides�.The prolific presence of these hills means that Bath boasts a number of very steep streets.

The city is bisected by the River Avon, which has been made into one single channel. The area of Bath totals only 29 square kilometres, or 11 square miles.

4. A ceremonial and non-metropolitan county in South West England 5. The quantity of water, expressed in inches, precipitated as rain, snow, hail, or sleet in a specified area and time interval. 6. A range of limestone hills running east to west between Westonsuper-Mare and Frome.

Answers: 1. Avon Valley, 2. Oolitic Limestone, 3. Calcium Carbonate, 4. Somerset, 5. Rainfall, 6. Mendip Hills, 7. Dormant volcano, 8. Cotswolds

16


City of Bath

6

1

5

7 2

3

8 4

17


18

Arrival


Arrival

ARRIVAL How to get to Bath Parts of the city Where to sleep People in Bath

19


Arrival

HOW TO GET TO BATH

R

Car

R

Rail There are regular trains directly from London Paddington and Waterloo to Bath, with an average journey time of around 90 minutes. Bristol Temple Meads, just 15 minutes away by train, is also a major hub for traveling. For information on timetables, visit: nationalrail.com.uk and traveline.info

Bath is located just 10 miles from junction 18 of the M4 motorway, which runs from London and Heathrow directly. There are also excellent motorway links from Devon, Cornwall and the North via the M5 motorway, whilst Wales is just a short drive west on the M4 motorway. There are 3 Park and Ride services for you to leave your car and pick up the bus into town: 1. Lansdown Park and Ride - Bus 31 2. Newbridge park and Ride - Bus 21 3. Odd Down Park and Ride - Bus 41 All of the buses operate from 6.15am - 8.30pm, Mon. to Sat. and from 9.30am - 6pm, Sun. For information on Park and Ride services visit traveline.info or parkandride.net

National Express provides goodvalue coach travel linking all major towns and cities in the UK. Frequent services to Bath run from London Victoria Coach Station, London Heathrow and London Gatwick. For information on timetables visit gobycoach.com.uk

Sea The closest ferry ports are located in Poole and Portsmouth approximately 80 miles away (for boats from mainland Europe) and Fish guard is approximately 140 miles away (for boats from Ireland). The Port in Dover is 190 miles away.

Air

R

R

Coach

R

20

Just fifteen miles away from Bath, Bristol airport is one of Britain´s fastest growing airports. Many airlines operate in its ground coming from and going to over 90 different destinations. For further information and a full list of destinations served visit bristolairport.co.uk


Arrival

21


22

Arrival

PARTS OF THE CITY A river splits Bath. Inside the river limits you find the city centre and most of its activity. The best areas are to the north of or next to the river Avon. On the top of town you have the arts school, a branch of Bath Spa University, a modern and small campus surrounded by inspirational streets with Georgian houses, the Lansdown Crescent and the Royal Victoria Park. They say that the shoe designer, Manolo Blahnik, has a house around this area. To the east of the river you have Bath University, Sydney gardens and the Avon canal path. This part of the city is quiet and elegant. It has steep hills leading to wonderful views of the city centre. If you go further away to the east you find Bathampton, it has a mill that is worth going to see. The multicultural and cosmopolitan end of town is to the northeast, along Walcot St and the London Road. Larkhall, behind London Road, is a cute town with independent food shops supplied by farmers from the countryside. If money is not a problem, the town centre is the best, Lansdown, Eastgate or Westgate. Widcombe, behind the train station, is the new fashionable place to live; it is also

very near the centre. Newbridge, Claverton or Bathampton are quite expensive and way off the centre. You will have to catch the bus to get to these places unless you are a good walker. Students live around Oldfield Park, which is largely rented accommodation and is staggering distance from town. Weston is in the west of Bath, just above the Royal United Hospital. It is a small and pleasan town fifty minutes walk to Bath´s centre; however, it is not worth living there if you are going to stay a short period of time. It is close to the motorway that leads to Bristol. The largest residential area is Twerton to the west, it is said to be the shabbiest part of the city, the closest to a chavtown here in beautiful Bath.


Arrival

23


Arrival

WHERE TO SLEEP

R

The White Hart Inn

R

Bath Backpackers Bath backpacker is the most famous hostel in town and has a life of its own. With people living in it all year long, you can make new friends from all around the world. Just pop in the common room and you will see people reading, playing board or computer games or just chatting. It is only on minute walk from the train station. It has single sexed/mixed rooms from 4 to 10 beds per room and rates range from £13 to £23 per night. 13 Pierrepont Street, Bath, BA1 1LA T. 44 (0) 1225 446 787 E. bath@hostels.co.uk

It is cheap accommodation just behind the train station. It is also a village restaurant and pub, so you can eat your dinner or have a drink just before going to your room. It has a beautiful garden at the back where you can enjoy a beer or a coffee while planning what to do. You can pay £25 for a single room or £40 for a twin. Dormitory rooms are available from £15 per person. Widcombe Hill, Bath, BA2 6AA T. 44 (0) 1225 313985 www.whitehartbath.co.uk

St. Christopher's Inn

R

Bath YMCA

R

24

This hostel is hidden in a small and pretty square near the paragon. It is very central, but just a bit expensive for a youth hostel without a private bathroom. The views from the upper rooms are outstanding, but at night, it can get very noisy. It has private and single sexed/ mixed rooms from 2 to 18 beds per room and rates range from £30 to £40 per night. 9 Green Street, Bath, BA1 2JY T. 44 (0) 1225 481444

This youth hostel is central, and it also doubles as a sports bar. It offers cheap cocktails and filling food, just don't expect top quality or service, but the upside is that it is very cheap. It has private and single sexed/ mixed rooms from 2 to 12 beds per room and rates range from £12 to £30 per night. 9 Green Street, Bath, BA1 2JY T. 44 (0) 1225 481444


Arrival

A very nice half Italian young lady runs this picturesque hostel. Breakfast is included with a large variety of egg styles. It is also very close to the train station, just 1 minute walking up Manvers street. The only objection is that its common bathrooms are sometimes in an odd condition. Room prices range from £40 to £80. 6 Manvers St, BA1 1JQ Telephone: 44 (0) 1225 330133

Redcar Hotel

B&B's

It’s just around the corner of one of the most beautiful streets in the city, Great Pulteney Street, and oneminute walk to Pulteney Bridge. A cute hotel suitable for couples. Price varies from £55 to £85 27-29 Henrietta Street, Bath BA2 6LR T. 44 (0) 1225 469151

R

It’s a good opportunity to try the facilities of the Universities and find a cheap room. On the east side of Bath, in Claverton Down, the University campus is located. The big inconvenience is that you have to ride the bus to get there. From £25.00 to premium rooms for £66. All rates now include breakfast. www.bath.ac.uk/hospitality/beds T. 44(0)1225 386622 E. beds@bath.ac.uk

R

R

Annabelle´s Guest House

R

University of Bath

If you are planning to stay in a bed and breakfast, check: www.airbnb.com. The price range is very extense, sometimes cheaper than a hostel in town. You can find very homy places to stay for a couple of days.

25


26

Arrival

PEOPLE IN BATH The

ENGLISH Jeremy Paxman

Once upon a time the English knew who they were. There was such a ready list of adjectives to hand. They were polite, unexcitable, reserved and had hot-water bottles instead of a sex life: how they reproduced was one of the mysteries of western world. They were doers rather than thinkers, writers rather than painters, gardeners rather than cooks. They were class-bound, hidebound and incapable of expressing their emotions.


Arrival

The other

ENGLISH In Bath people will often ask you if you “are you alright?” without expecting an answer that could involve them. With a “not too bad” from you, they are pleased because they really don’t care. But there are some special ones who care. They are the outsiders. You see them walking along the streets of Bath with a spark in their eyes, with their personal style, their own originality that makes them unique. They are the hippies, the poets, the fishes out of the water, the dropouts.

You will find them especially around Walcot Street and London Road. That used to be the hippie quarter with a bar called the “Longacre Tavern”. A pub with an Afro-Caribbean feel, with reggae invariably blasting out in the bar. People used to play domino until sunrise, it is funny that now this bar doesn´t exist any more, but a Domino´s pizza has taken it´s place. Bath is full of interesting people to discover, you only have to make an effort to find them and have luck, as I did.

Two authentic Bathonians.

27


28

Discover the city


Discover the city

DISCOVER THE CITY Getting started Places to see Bath´s gymkana

29


30

Discover the city

GETTING STARTED The City´s

TIMETABLE In Bath life starts around 9am - 10am in the morning and ends when the shops close at 6pm. Bars open every night until around 11pm in the week and 12am in the weekend. Clubs close their doors at about 2am in the morning. On Wednesdays and Thursdays you can find many students going out for a drink. Saturdays is the day local people go out, this are busy nights, it depends on how you like it!

Bath &

COSTUMES You can find people dressed in costumes around Bath. This is because it is a customary to celebrate hen and stag parties. Also, as many students live in Bath, they have their own costume parties so you can see Batmans, aliens, smurfs or all sorts of creatures going out at night to the pubs and bars around the city. People in Bath are crazy for Jane Austen, so don´t get surprised if, while walking around the city, you find landed gentry passing by you as if you were in the 18th Century.

You just arrived & you feel

HUNGRY? If you arrive later than 6,30pm and you are hungry, possibly the best option is to go to Gong Fu Noodle Bar, in 16 Kingsmead Square. They are open until 11pm and they serve quick, cheap and tasty noodles.


Discover the city

31


Discover the city

PLACES TO SEE Roman Baths

R

32

You should and cannot miss them. It is the city´s most popular place to visit. Its entrance is in the Abbey´s Church Yard. The baths are below the modern streets level and the site also features a Sacred Spring, a Roman Temple, a Roman Bath House and a museum with finds. The audio guides are in English, French, Spanish, German, Italian, Japanese, Mandarin and Russian.

Colour the protector of

THE TEMPLE

The entrance is a bit expensive, but it is worth it. If you are a student don´t forget to show your student card, you will get a small discount with it. www.romanbaths.co.uk Opens diary from Mar. to Jun. and Sept. to Oct. from 9am - 6pm, Jul. and Aug. from 9am to 10pm, Nov. to Feb. from 9,30am to 5,30pm; last entry 1 hour before closing.


Discover the city

R

Bath Abbey This magnificent church of the middle ages is in the heart of the city, and it is the place where Edgar, England´s first king was crowned. It is built of Bath Stone, which gives the exterior its yellow color. It is an atypical example of the Perpendicular form of Gothic architecture, with low aisles and nave arcades and a tall clerestory. The entrance is for free, although they ask for a £2,50 donation, so if you don´t want to pay, play the dumb - foreigner :) The space in front of the Abbey and the Roman Baths is a favourite spot for the city´s buskers. If you are lucky you will find someone performing an acrobatic show. Music performers and human statues are also common in Bath streets.

“The Hot Springs of Bath - natural temperature 120 degrees F - the most highly radioactive waters in Britain, are unequalled in the cure of many diseases.” Extract from a journal advertisement, 1920s.

Buskers playing in the Abbey square

33


Discover the city

Pulteney Bridge

R

34

Inspired by the Ponte Vecchio in Florence and the Rialto in Venice, Pulteney Bridge gives one of the most incredible views in the city. You can see the triple cascade falling surrounded by ducks and swans. If you are up to it, you should cross the bridge and go down to the path that follows the river Avon for a walk.


Discover the city

R

The Circus

R

The Guildhall market The Market is one of the longest running shopping venues in Bath, serving the community for over 800 years. The market has 3 fruit and vegetable stalls, 2 butchers and 2 fishmongers all-operating at the same time. With the opening of supermarkets the market has had to change with the times and has been dragged into the 21st century pretty smartly. They have tried to keep it as traditional as possible and there are to this day a colorful group of stall holders successfully operating from this jewel of Bath.

There are conjectures saying that the Circus was inspired by the Colosseum in Rome or the ancient site of Stonehenge. It was Britain´s first Circular Street. Divided into three segments of equal length, the Circus is a circular space surrounded by large townhouses. Each of the curved segments faces one of the three entrances, ensuring that whichever way a visitor enters there is a classical facade straight ahead. The Circus, originally called King’s Circus, was designed by the architect John Wood, the Elder, although he died less than three months after the first stone was laid and his son completed the project. It was part of John Wood the Elder’s grand vision to recreate a classical Palladian architectural landscape for the city. Between 1758 and 1774 number 17 of the Circus was home to Thomas Gainsborough and used as his portrait studio. When viewed from the air, the Circus, along with Queens Square and Gay Street, form a key shape, which is a masonic symbol similar to those that adorn many of Wood's buildings.

R

Royal Victoria Park The Park was formed in 1829 and formally opened in 1830. It was named after the 11 year old Princess Victoria, (the first ever park to carry her name) visiting Bath at the time. Overlooked by the Royal Crescent, its 57 acres were originally laid out as an arboretum, and even today it contains a superb collection of trees. Furthermore, there are some fine Ornaments, a bird aviary, beautiful bedding displays, a boating pond, tennis courts, a bowling green, and 12 to 18 hole approach golf courses. A pond provides the best place to float model boats and the old tradition of duck feeding. It is a location for the launch of hot air balloons.

The remains of a Roman wall were found behind the Royal Crescent and evidence of possible Iron and Bronze Age settlement.

35


Discover the city

Prior Park

R

The Royal Crescent

R

36

The Royal Crescent is a street of 30 terraced houses laid out in a sweeping crescent. It was designed by John Wood the Younger and built between 1767 and 1774. It is among the greatest examples of Georgian architecture to be found in the United Kingdom. It now has a hotel and a Georgian house museum; some of the houses have been converted into flats and offices. It is a popular location for the makers of films and TV programmes such as the black comedy The Wrong Box (1966), the film Catch Us If You Can (1965) or The Duchess (2008).

Beautiful and intimate 18th century landscape garden created by Bath entrepreneur Ralph Allen with advice from poet Alexander Pope and Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown. It is a sweeping valley with magnificent views over the city of Bath. The entrance is not free, you have to pay £6 for the ticket. Opening hours: From the 10th of Nov. to the end of Jan. from 10am to 5.30pm in the weekends. From the 1st of Feb. to the 4th of Nov. from 10am to 5.30pm every day.

Other places

NOT TO MISS


Discover the city

37


38

Discover the city

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.� Marcel Proust


Discover the city

Living in a

BOAT!

What about going on a boat trip?

Sydney gardens are situated behind the Holburne Museum, at the end of Great Pulteney Street. In the 19th century they were used for balloon ascents and they were frequently visited by members of the Royal family and the writer Jane Austen who lived at number 4 Sydney Place, very near the park. They have a replica of the Temple of Minerva that was built to commemorate the Bath Historical Pageant. Today the park contains fine trees, shrubberies, lawns and flower beds. It is popular for its bridge views of the railway line for spotting trains. The gardens lead to the Kennet and Avon Canal. Its wide paths are ideal for cycling along or looking for squirrels. If you continue walking along the Avon canal you will find boathouses with very particular designs. Most of these boats are the home of people, and they have to be in continuous movement so all of them can moor throughout the entire canal without favoring some with better spots over others. You can make a small cruise along the canal. Go to the entrance of Sydney gardens situated in Sydney road, where a bridge crosses the canal. There you will find a place to rent your boat or canoe.

39


40

Discover the city

BATH´S GYMKANA ➢ Go out of the train station. ➢ Walk up Southgate Street, take a look at the shops: Urban Outfitters, Topshop or River Island, as if you were in a little replica of London.

➢ You will then get to Stall Street that leads to the central square where the entire hubbub is.

➢ If you turn left in Westgate street

you´ll find Hardy´s Original Sweetshop, where you can buy a big and sweet candy. In the same street you have the Little Theatre Cinema that shows quality cinema from around the globe since 1936 in a very authentic environment.

➢ This street leads to Kingsmead

Square where everyday you can find fresh fruit and vegetables in a little marketplace set in the middle.

➢ Behind it you have the Society

Café, a place where you can relax with a big coffee and a selection of art house books, magazines and sometimes photography exhibitions.

➢ After the coffee you can go back to the square and up the continuation of Westgate street where

Little Theatre cinema has the looks of an art deco old theatre and shows all kind of independent movies. Perfect for an intimate plan or a relaxed evening. you will find the Theatre Royal, a building with the most scary and magical stories about it.

➢ You can then get a bit lost around the streets that are over Upper Borough Walls - the street that turns right after the Theatre Royal that end up in Queen Square. The square was designed to join the houses in unison and give the impression that together they formed one large mansion when viewed from the south facing side. The focal point of Queen Square is the obelisk at the centre which commemorates the visit of Frederick, Prince of Wales.

➢ If you turn right, again in the direc-

tion of the city centre, hidden in John Street you will find Mr B’s Emporium of Reading Delights, one of the best libraries in town together with Topping and Company Booksellers in Bath ( you can find this other library at the beginning of The Paragon).


Discover the city

41


42

Discover the city


Discover the city

➢ After buying a book from Mr B´s,

you can turn left in Quiet street and arrive at the beginning of the main street in Bath: Milsom street. There, if you look up at the building that is in the center you will see the royal arms above the shop window. The arms are those of Queen Charlotte, consort of George III, who visited Bath in 1817. The most significant part of it is the two animals that lay on the sides, the lion and the unicorn that gives these royal arms a very special feeling.

➢ If you look down, you will find

letters typed in the floor. Can you read what they say?

➢ You can go up Milsom Street or

around New Bond Street where you will find Bloomsbury, a very cute and English store perfect to buy a present.

➢ At the end of this street you can

either go down town again towards the Abbey or up Broad Street or Walcot Street. In Broad Street, you have many independent shops that are worth taking a look, and if you go up until the end you will find Topping & company, one of the best independent bookshops in town. But if it is Saturday, you will find the Flea Market in Walcot street, and you cannot miss it! If it is another day of the week, don´t worry, Walcot street has a variety of second hand shops that can shape up your day.

Also you will find a very curious place called Abbey Gardens. You’ll find just about everything here, from aged stone gargoyles and Buddhas, to beautiful painted birdcages and garden seats.

➢ And to finish with the day, what

better than drinking a fresh ale in the most interesting bar in town? The Bell Inn offers live music and a very artistic atmosphere that will delight your senses and make you feel you are flying.

The best views

ALEXANDRA PARK If you want to see an amazing view of the city of Bath you have to come to this park. It will take you a while to walk up the hill, but the view will take your breath away. From a platform situated in this park you will have a whole panoramic view of all the city. To get here you have to walk behind the train station, up Holloway Street and then turn left to Shakespeare Avenue. In this avenue, where you will find the west entrance of the park, there are houses that have been kept in their original medieval style.

43


44

Where to go


Where to go

WHERE TO GO Museums Time for an english meal Fancy a coffee? Let´s go shopping Nightlife in Bath

45


Where to go

MUSEUMS

R

The Herschel Museum of Astronomy

R

The Holburne Museum This museum has a collection of paintings and artifacts formed by Sir Thomas William Holburne (17931874). If you like British eighteenth - and early nineteenth-century paintings and miniatures, this is your place to go! Free admission (there is a charge for the temporary exhibitions) Great Pulteney Street, Bath. BA2 4DB www.holburne.org

William Herschel discovered the planet Uranus here in March 1781 using a telescope of his own design. This museum is dedicated to him and his sister Caroline who was also an outstanding astronomer and discovered a number of comets. They both were musicians as well. The museum features their workshop, the Star Vault, their music room and a charming garden. Adults ÂŁ6 / They have special student and group rates 19 New King Street, Bath, BA1 2BL www.herschelmuseum.org.uk 21 Jan. - 18 Dec. Open daily 1pm 5pm / Weekends & Bank Holidays 11am - 5pm / Open Wed. during half term and school holidays

It has the most diverse art collection in Bath, from Gainsborough and Sickert to Klee, Hodgkin or Blake, and many other leading artists from the 15th century to the present day. It has one of the best temporary exhibition programs in the region and frequent workshops for all kinds of people. Free admission Bridge Street, Bath. BA2 4AT www.victoriagal.org.uk Tues-Sat 10am - 5pm / Sun. 1,30pm 5pm / Closed Mon.25 & 26 of Dec.

The Fashion Museum

R

Victoria Art Gallery

R

46

The history of fashion over the past 400 years is brought alive at in this museum. It includes historical and contemporary dresses. The earliest pieces displayed are embroidered shirts and gloves from about 1600. You can try on reproduction


Where to go

“William Herschel was the first man to give a reasonably correct picture of the shape of our starsystem or galaxy; he was the best telescope-maker of his time, and possibly the greatest observer who ever lived�. Patrick Moore, astronomer.

47


Where to go

Museum of Bath at work Housed in an eighteenth century Real Tennis Court, the Museum traces the development of 2000 years of the city of Bath as a retailing and manufacturing centre. It includes reconstructions of an engineering works and mineral water factory. It shows how were the stone workings and construction industry in Bath. The most interesting things in this museum are a Bath Chair exhibited at the Crystal Palace exhibition of 1851 and the display of a car manufactured in 1914 by the Horstmann Car Company of Bath, the earliest known example in the world. Adults £5.00 / Students £3.50 / Groups £3.00 pp Julian Road, Bath, BA1 2RH www.bath-at-work.org.uk 10,30 - 4h / From Jan. to Mar. & Nov. weekends only / From Apr. to Oct. 7 days a week / Dec. closed

The Jane Austen Centre

R

corsets, crinolines and a Victorian costume in the interactive displays. The museum is inside the Assembly Rooms, where in Georgian times people used to gather for parties and balls. Adults £7.75 / Student £7 Bennett Street, Bath, BA1 2QH www.fashionmuseum.co.uk Jan. to Feb. & Nov. to Dec. 10,30am - 4pm Mar. to Oct. 10,30am - 5pm

R

48

If you are a fan of Jane Austen and want to see how she lived, then don´t miss this museum. It explores how living in Bath influenced her writing. It has a tea room for you to feel as if you were in the Regency times as well. Adults £8.00 / Student: £6.00 40 Gay Street, Queen Square, Bath, BA1 2NT www.janeausten.co.uk All year 9,45am - 5,30pm / From Nov. to Feb. 11am - 4,30pm / Jul. & Aug. late openings from Thur. to Sat. until 6pm


Where to go

49


50

Where to go

"Wherever you go, you take yourself with you." Neil Gaiman, The Graveyard Book


Where to go

Artistic

SPACES

Find your inspirational site in the city.

Bath is traditional for its artistic environment. It has a large variety of art galleries throughout the centre of the city. You can walk around Margaret’s Buildings and find some interesting galleries there. Also in Gay Street, going towards the Circus, there are some art galleries as well as the Jane Austen centre. The best gallery in town is Rostra Gallery, in 5 George Street, Bath, BA1 2EJ. Here you will find contemporary high quality, accessible art in a relaxed and friendly environment. It exhibits an exciting range of contemporary art by both established and emerging artists. They exhibit sculpture, ceramics, paintings, jeweler, glass and lighting, specializing in Limited Edition Prints. Another good place to go to, if you are searching for art in Bath, is the Artists studios in The Old Malthouse, Comfortable Place, Upper Bristol Road, Bath BA1 3AJ. Open from Mon. to Fri., from 10am to 4pm, this is a non-profit making visual arts centre in Bath. They support visual arts through the provision of affordable studio space, art classes, talks and exhibitions. Founded in 1997 as Widcombe Studios, they are a central part of Bath’s artistic community, as well as the largest provider of art courses and studio space in the city.

51


Where to go

TIME FOR AN ENGLISH MEAL

English breakfast A full english breakfast usually is made by a combination of bacon, sausages and eggs. It is often served with a variety of side dishes like beans or salad or toast and it normally includes a hot drink such as coffee or tea. ➢ Cafe Rouge

Sunday Roast The Sunday roast is a traditional British and Irish main meal that is usually served on Sundays. It consists of roasted meat, roast potato or mashed potato, with Yorkshire pudding, stuffing, vegetables and gravy as accompaniments. ➢ The Curfew Inn

Pie Pies are very popular in England. They are a baked dish consisting of a filling such as chopped meat or fruit enclosed in or covered with pastry (a mixture of flour and butter). ➢ The Raven

GO

The Raven

R

FOOD

Where to

This traditional pub is known for serving the best pies in town. At least nine different choices, they are all made with the best local meat. The price is about £8. Queen Street, Bath Tel: 44(0) 1225 425045

Aqua

R

Typical english

Inside and old church, this restaurant is a good place to go for a relaxed dinner. Price varies from £15 - £20. 88 Walcot Street, Bath Tel: 44 (0)1225 471 371

The Curfew Inn

R

52

This traditional inn with good music serves especially tasty Sunday Roasts. The price for this typical english plate is about £15, a bit expensive but it is a must if you are visiting England. 11 Cleveland Pl, Bath, BA1 5DG Tel: 44(0) 1225 313747


Where to go

53


Where to go

FANCY A COFFEE?

R

Colonna & smalls

R

Sally Lunn's In one of the oldest houses in Bath and home of the world famous ‘Sally Lunn’ Bun (exceptionally light semi sweet bread), it is one of the must-see places to go for an afternoon tea in the city of Bath. 4 North Parade Passage Bath, BA1 1NX

This shop is centered in exploring the flavor of coffee, focusing on how region, variety, processing, and roast and brew method affects the taste. As it is a gourmet type cafe, the price is a bit high. 6 Chapel Row, Bath

It has been voted as Bath´s favorite’s cafe. In this stylishly and eclectic space, you will find people jacked in their computers, others having a nice chat or characters reading a book. Their coffee is said to be the best in town. 4a Princes Buildings, George Street, Bath, BA1 2ED

Cafe Rouge In this cafe you can get the scent of Paris with a traditional English carrot cake or a scone. Relaxed, beautiful it is the perfect place for the 5 O´clock teas. 15 Milsom Street, Bath, BA1 1DE

R

Society Cafe Society’s ‘urban living space’ is designed for you to enjoy good coffee, delicious cake, homemade granola with yoghurt and compote or a fresh sandwich while reading one of their books in photography that you can pick up from the shelves. 4 & 5 Kingsmead Square, Bath, BA1 2AB

The Mad hatter´s tea party

R

R

Jika Jika

R

54

Decorated as if you were entering Alice´s Wonderland, this is a curious and cute little cafe perfect to go with your friends for an imaginative brunch. 5 Orange Grove, Bath BA1 1LP


Where to go

55


Where to go

LET´S GO SHOPPING!

R

Found In this “concept store” (this means, it is very expensive but inspiring) you can find agendas or notebooks with great designs and clothes and jewels with a high quality modern style. 17 Argyle Street, Bath, BA2 4BQ

R

CLOTHES

Charlie´s boots If you are looking for the perfect handmade jewel, here you will find it. Made with great love, you will find treasures in this little shop. 35 Broad St, Bath, BA1 5LP

The Makery

R

Cool gifts &

Kaniki Uttam London

The Yellow shop

R

Bloomsbury & co.

This shop has a range of fun, vibrant and unique clothes that with a reasonable price will delight girls looking for something special to wear. 12-13 The Corridor, Bath, BA1 5AP

R

Expect the unexpected around every corner of the store. You can relax in their cafe upstairs for a while and then you can pop into their jeweler store for a spot of decadence. Gifts: 15 New Bond Street, BA1 1BA Jewels: 2 Quiet St, Bath, BA1 2JS

If you love textiles and fashion, this is your spot. In this little shop you will find everything you could imagine, from little and big buttons with different forms and designs, to stamps, trimmings, pieces of fabric, tapes and many other accessories that will trap you for a while in this shop. They also organize workshops. If you are interested, check their webpage: www.themakeryonline.co.uk 16 Northumberland Place, Bath, BA1 5AR

R

56

This is the best vintage shop in town. It has men’s and woman’s clothing from all era’s, including bags, boots and shoes and all kind of accessories. 72 Walcot St, Bath, BA1 5B


Where to go

The best bookshops

IN TOWN

R

Topping & co.

R

Mr B's This independent bookstore is hidden in one of the streets of Bath, but is worth trying to find it. It has a wide variety of interesting books as well as knowledgeable staff that will help you find new books to read. Don´t forget to go up to the second floor where they have books for travelers, photographers or designers. Students get 10% discount. 14-15 John St, Bath, Avon BA1 2JL

The writer Alexander McCall Smith said about it: “One of the finest bookshops in the world.” And he is right. Topping & company is a place for you to relax, imagine, explore or to dive inside the world of books while drinking a tea. They have a wide range of activities and colloquiums with different authors from around the world. The Paragon, Bath, BA1 5LS

In Mr. B´s they will help you find your book.

57


58

Where to go

Antique

STORES The city of Bath has a large variety of antique stores. If you want to go to one full of different strange stuff, then you should go to Brian & Caroline Craik LTD. It is situated in 8, Margaret Buildings, Brock Street, Bath, BA1 2LP. This 19th century shop has a wide selection of portable antiques and curious. It is like Aladdin´s cave! Inside Green Park Station you will find Source Antiques, a shop that sells vintage industrial furniture and lighting. Their team of craftsmen are constantly sourcing, creating and restoring beautiful lighting, alternative furniture and custom pieces for the home or commercial projects, you should go and take a look. You will find most of the antique furniture stores walking along Walcot Street and London Road. First you will bump into Abbey Gardens, a place with a large variety of Victorian garden furniture. Later on, if you continue on walking you will start seeing furniture from the 60s and 70s in the streets. They come from different antique stores that sell them normally at fair prices. If you are not thinking on buying furniture, just take a walk along this street and take a look at what they have, it is always interesting to take a look at this curious stores.

Stationery &

CARDS England is famous for it´s fine stationery. Coming from the letterpress tradition, they care very much about designs in paper.

The Card 5 Beau Street, Bath BA1 1QY

Meticulous Ink 33 Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BN

Paperchase 31 Milsom St, Bath, BA1 1DG


Where to go

Notes, ideas &

DRAWINGS

59


Where to go

NIGHTLIFE IN BATH

R

The Hobgoblin´s

R

The Bell Inn The Bell Inn is a traditional free house converted from an 18th century coaching house. Three times a week they have live music, ranging from jazz to blues and from country and reggae to folk. Check out the band listings, open mic nights on Thursday, plus vinyl DJ nights at the weekend - always free!

Inside this alternative bar, there are loads of goblins and devils and loads of great tunes on the juke box. Try the “Beesting” Cider, it will make your lips tingle and your head spin. 47 St James’s Parade, BA1 1UQ 12pm to 11,30pm

The Porter Here you will find all the young students from Bath art school having a beer in the evenings, also interesting characters and groups of fascinating intellectuals who want to relax after a long day at work. It is the place for live bands, open mic nights, ambient DJs, Comedy and everything to do with the local live music and social scene for free. You can come on a Sunday for a stand-up comedy at the Comedy Cavern or in the week time where you will find more free tables. 15 George St, Bath, BA1 2EN From 12pm to 12am

R

Moles This night club is the best option after having some beers or ales in The Porter next door. With live music concerts and a hip and cool environment, it is a good place to go to and dance like crazy. The entrance is not free, normally £3 for students and £5 for a normal entry. 14 George St, Bath, BA1 2EN From 10pm to 2,30am

Pig and Fiddle

R

103 Walcot St, Bath, BA1 5BW From 11,30am to 11pm

R

60

Everyone in Bath old enough to drink knows the Pig. Don´t miss their Tuesdays open mic nights, they are legendary. 2 Saracen St, Bath, BA1 5BR 11am to 11,30pm


Where to go

Write your best bar

ANECDOTE

What are

ALES? There are two main types of beer: ales and lagers. Their main difference is the type of yeast used in the brewing process. Ales are the oldest beers in the world, and they are very common in England. They are generally stronger and more forceful in taste than lagers because they are fermented quite fast and in warmer conditions. In Bath you have to try Spitfire, it is the best one; people who know the business say this.

61


62

Where to go

The Royal Theatre is the most haunted buildings in Bath. Ask if someone can tell you the legend of the Butterfly, It´s scary!


Where to go

Haunted

BATH

The Royal Theatre is magical.

The West Country is well steeped in mystery. There is a legend of Camelot, King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table. Stonehenge contributes its own mysterious awe, serving as a temple for pagan religious society, namely the Druids, who still hold ceremonies there. There is also the Avebury Ring, a huge circle of large stones and Glastonbury Tor and the ruined Abbey where it is reputed somewhere lies buried the Holy Grail. Warminster is famous for swarms of odd sightings in the sky (UFOs), and a large influx of complex types of crop circles. Invisible and powerful lines, both benevolent and malignant, crisscross the landscape, adding their own invisible influences to the atmosphere. Bath stone, of which Bath was built (soft limestone), has a certain vibration rate that has, in metaphysical circles, the exact vibration rate to absorb and store any traumatic event that takes place. It appears that somehow, it stores this trauma like a video recorder and when all the same conditions such as temperature, time, and humidity are exactly the same as when the event took place, it will replay it, and a smell, a sound or a vision will be reproduced just as was when the trauma took place.

63


64

Various


Various

VARIOUS Festivals The University More random stuff

65


66

Various

FESTIVALS Bath is known for having a yearround series of cultural events. So, no matter what time of year you visit Bath, it will be very probable that you will find a program of festivals and events in the city.

➢ The Bath International Music Fes-

tival is the largest of Bath´s festivals and it has importance at national and international levels. It features orchestral and classical virtuosos, jazz giants, folk, world musicians and innovative collaborations. It runs for 12 days in late May and early June. www.bathmusicfest.org.uk

➢ One of the oldest festivals in

England is the Bath Fringe Festival. Its program bursts with theatre, dance, music, visual arts, comedy, children’s festival, street theatre and circus. It runs for 12 days in late May and early June. www.bathfringe.co.uk

➢ Bath Literature Festival started in

1995, and gives you the opportunity to meet a great deal of important national and international authors such as Hilary Mantel or Margaret Atwood. Each year the festival features the Bath Big Read, when the city is invited to read a new novel

and discuss it with the author. The Bath Literature Festival runs over nine days in late February. www.bathlitfest.org.uk

➢ The Jane Austen Festival is

famous for its Regency costumed parade that takes place all over the city. For nine days, Bath celebrates the life and works of this important English writer with different activities and events. It takes place at the end of September. www. janeausten.co.uk/festival

Other

FESTIVALS Bath Mozart Festival 9 days in mid-November www.bathmozartfest.org.uk Bath Film Festival 9 days in mid-November www.bath-filmfestival.org.uk Bath Comedy Festival 10 days from April´s Fool´s Day www.bathcomedyfestival.co.uk Bath Japan Festival 10 days in mid-May www.bathfestivals.org.uk


Various

67


68

Various

"Summer friends will melt away like summer snows, but winter friends are friends forever.� George R.R. Martin


Various

Christmas

MARKET From the end of November to mid December, the Bath Christmas Market makes you feel Bath as a truly Christmas experience. The market consists of over 120 individual wooden chalet style stalls. Set in the heart of the city, they offer from handmade crafts, unique jewellery pieces and decorations, to locally produced food and drink. But, if you don´t feel like buying, it is also worth going only to see it. Better if you go in the week time, because in the weekend it is so full that it is impossible to walk around the market comfortably. www.bathchristmasmarket.co.uk

Bath in Christmas time turns white.

69


70

Various

THE UNIVERSITY Bath has two universities that have great rivalry: The University of Bath and Bath Spa University. The first one is more interested in science and the second one in arts, they offer a wide range of carreers with a high academic level. The University of Bath started as the Bristol Trade School in 1856. It ended up being in Bath because of it´s expansion in the 60s. Bath Spa University’s originally dates back to 1852 with the first Bath School of Art. It´s a modern and progressive University with an exciting mix of courses and structures. It is a relatively new university that has an emphasis on creativity, culture and enterprise. It focuses on teaching quality and preparation for employment. Applications are on the increase and the university is expanding its international focus. It has three sites:

➢ Newton Park, a few miles from

town, is an 18th-century landscape garden where The Newton Park campus is located. It is the largest of the university’s three campuses and home to the majority of the student accommodation. It is here that most of the courses are taught except of Art and Design and some

of the PGCE courses. The campus is based in Newton Park in grounds designed by English landscape architect Lancelot “Capability” Brown and leased from the Duchy of Cornwall. The site has a lake, nature reserve, woodlands and arable farmlands.

➢ In Sion Hill, going up town in the Lansdown district, you will find the Arts and Design school, where all the artistic students work hard to create the most innovative works for their professional development.

➢ In the town of Corsham, the

university offers the Corsham Court building, an English country house in a park designed by Capability Brown, as the place for postgraduate study, research and educational development. In 1946 following damage to their building during World War II, Bath Academy of Art (now Bath School of Art and Design and part of Bath Spa University) moved to Corsham Court. The academy stayed until 1986 during which time the teachers included many of the key figures in British fine art included Kenneth Armitage, Terry Frost, Peter Lanyon, Adrian Heath, Bernard Meadows, William Scott and Sir Howard Hodgkin.


Various

71


72

Various

MORE RANDOM STUFF The

WEATHER Flanders & Swann

January brings the snow, Makes our feet and fingers glow. February's ice and sleet Freeze the toes tight off your feet. Welcome March with wintry wind - Would thou wert not so unkind! April brings the s weep spring showers, On and on for hours and hours. Farmers fear unkindly May Frost by night and hail by day. June just rains and never stops Thirty days and spoils the crops. In July the sun is hot. Is it shining? No, it's not. August, cold and dank and wet, Brings more rain than any yet. Bleak September's mist and mud Is enough to chill the blood. Then October adds a gale, Wind and slush and rain and hail. Dark November brings the fog Should not do it to a dog. Freezing wet December, then Bloody January again!

Turn off

THE TAP! Usually you will find two taps in the bathroom sink, one for cold and one for hot water. This annoys many foreigners who consider it unhygienic and difficult to manage. There are several theories. The most extended one is that when originally indoor plumbing started, they installed a cold tap, and as most people were right handed, it tended to be on the right. Later on, when they were able to produce hot water they installed the hot tap in the only other available space without disturbing the original cold tap.


Various

Join the dots to find

WHAT´S BEHIND 137 42 43 136 135 41 138 40 122 133 44 140 38 132 45 134 139141 121 39 46 37 119120123124 116 47 125 48 118 49 112 115 126 128 129 127 130 131 114 117 111 142 143 113 148 109 106 107 115

108

110 50

105

73

74 76 23 13 22 24 12 14 25 15 11 16 21 26 10 17 20 27 9 28 19 8 30 34

77 79

32

4 2

161

149

78

166 162

31

151

33

80 82

35

51 7 5

72 75

81 153

84

62 63

85

144

160 167 165 159 164 163 158 168 150 152

154 147 155 170

6

83 52 53 56 57 60 61 66 67 70 71 65 68 69 86 88 54 55 58 59 91 64

3

87 92 173

96

169 171

172 174

102 97

1 18

29

36

99 90

101

98 100

95

103 94

104

93 145

146

156 157

Useful advice for an Englishman

TRAVELLING ABROAD In the matter of language it is always best to go to a little more trouble and learn the exact equivalent if possible. “I am an Englishman and require instant attention to the damage done to my solar topee” is far better than any equivocation that may be meant well but will gain little respect. A Gentleman of Experience, 1890

73


74

Various


Various

75


76

Various

Hello, First of all, let me introduce myself. I am a guide, but not an ordinary one. I have been written and designed for people who want to travel differently, with their own flow, and if you think that you are that kind of person, then lets get cracking! I am a guide for you, so you can personalize me as much as you want. As you have realized, my cover is almost white. So, why don´t you pick up a pen or a coloured pencil and start creating your own version of me? It would be fun, wouldn't it? My objective is to trace your steps on your way around this unique and magical city. In my pages, you will find solid ideas for your arrival, helpful tips in sniffing out the best places in Bath, recommendations from locals, good places to go to and have fun, as well as general information about the city. So, what are you waiting for? Well, then, pick up your backpack, grab your camera and out you go! Other titles of this collection: AARHUS / BASEL / CUENCA / MONTPELLIER / ROVANIEMI / 15₏ ISBN 977-2-15776-093-1

City of Bath guide  

Hello, First of all, let me introduce myself. I am a guide, but not an ordinary one. I have been written and designed for people who want t...