RESTAURANT THEGOURMET
Casually Luxurious Dining at
WORDS AMY WILLIAMS PHOTOGRAPHY KH PHOTOGRAPHY
A
s I sat on the trademark-white sofas at Purobeach Marbella, looking out to the Rock of Gibraltar and the coastline of North Africa, soaking up the sun and superchilled atmosphere and enjoying the refreshing sea breeze, I found it impossible not to wind down into such a state of relaxation that I could almost have forgotten I’d actually arrived to experience the chic beach club’s muchrenowned restaurant. Fortunately for me, the staff hadn’t, and so on their smiling invitation I followed them to take my place at a freshfeeling and immaculately-laid table. The food at Purobeach is a famed fusion of Asian and Mediterranean influences yet as I looked through the choices on the menu, I wondered how the New York steak or Mexican Quesadillas fitted into that category. The eclecticism of the menu was not only geographical, but it spread with ease across degrees of ‘sophistication’ too. I struggle to recall many other menus where a 200g cheeseburger sits so happily on the same page as caviar and blinis, with both likely to be ordered in equal volume. The concept of ‘casual luxury’ is Puro’s goal. Whilst lobster is a common call from gourmands at luxury restaurants the world over, Purobeach believes that a simple soup also has its place in the luxury lifestyle, and that their menu should be an effortless blend of a multitude of influences and flavours to create a relaxed dining experience. So, caviar and burgers it is! And this philosophy extends to all areas of the Puro concept. It is all about relaxation, discreet indulgence, a warm welcome, and well-being. But back to the lobster... recommended
PURO BEACH
by more than one of the friendly staff, the Lobster Salad was the undisputed choice of shared starter for our table. It was a great recommendation. Succulent lobster kept good company with refreshing pieces of melon and avocado, with crunchy cashew nuts and spring onions, and with an Asian touch in spices such as chilli and ginger. The flavours were fresh and dressed delicately with a mango chutney mayonnaise. With the Lobster Salad being essentially a Mediterranean dish with subtle Asian influences, I chose to follow it with a main course which offered the same combination, but in reverse: the chicken satay – an undisputed southeast-Asian dish accompanied on its skewer by Mediterranean roasted vegetables, and on the plate by a white rice dressed with a surprising and tangy citrus juice. The combination of flavours worked perfectly together, and it is therefore no coincidence that this clever coalescence of two cultures is in abundance throughout the Puro menu, demonstrated in other dishes such as Marinated Cod, dressed with ginger and sesame oil; and the Beef Tartar, freshly chopped with an accompanying wasabi dressing. Moving away from the marriage of Mediterranean and Asian flavours however, and throwing a third continent into the mix to challenge chef José Luis Cañizares Escrivá, my partner chose the classic Quesadilla as his main course. It was a true mouthful of Mexico, with no shortage of ingredients packed into four flour tortillas: grilled chicken, cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, sour cream, chilli peppers, guacamole and garlic among them. A simple,
yet satisfying dish suited perfectly to the relaxed, informal and functional demands of a poolside restaurant. José Luis, the magician behind the menu, boasts a resume of restaurants shining with Michelin stars, spanning the kitchens of Europe: El Bulli and Restaurante Arzac in Girona, Restaurante Zalacain in Madrid, and Restaurante Les Pres d’Eugénie (Michel Guérard) of Eugénie Les Bains in France. He has also cooked in London and Mexico, and has specialised in contemporary Japanese cuisine, as well as French and Asian fusion. As our final courses arrived, the chilled background music became recognisable as a modern, Mediterranean-style version of Frankie Valli’s Can’t Take My Eyes Off You, with its hit refrain ‘you’re just too good to be true’ perfectly summing up our sentiments as we delved into the delicious desserts in front of us. Between us we had ‘Gino’, consisting of fresh summer fruits, melted white chocolate and vanilla ice-cream, and the Puro Brownie, subheaded succinctly on the menu as simply ‘a good excuse to go for it’. Both were indulgent, delicious, and taking me further and further away from the bikini that I’d previously had every intention of donning for a gentle, post-prandial swim... The restaurant at Purobeach genuinely offers something for everyone. Indeed, fellow diners in the restaurant that day included families, colleagues and friends. Whether you want fine dining or just a sophisticated snack, lunch or an exquisite evening meal on the terrace (the restaurant is open from 7pm until late), Purobeach provides it in a fresh and friendly setting, with service, ambience and presentation which are second-to-none. e
g Laguna Village, Playa El Padrón, CN 340, km 159, Estepona. Tel: 952 800 015. www.purobeach.com 147ReR PuroBeach_andi.indd 137
AUGUST 2011 ESSENTIAL MAGAZINE / 137
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