Page 103

Essential WINE

(La Clusière),拥有 AOP 原厂地标签——莱博 得普罗旺斯山谷 AOP(AOP Vallée des Baux de Provence),致 敬 圣 艾 美 隆 产 区 “已 经 绝 迹 的 ” 克鲁斯酒庄(Château La Clusière)。该酒庄的 3 公顷土地已经并入柏菲酒庄领地。在莱博得 小镇,这个名字非常合适,因为“cluse”是在以 峭壁闻名的石灰岩群中刻出的山谷。即使最 近,夫妇俩还在继续拓张生意王国,收购了 L’Envers du Décor 葡萄酒吧和餐厅,该餐厅创 立于 1987 年,是圣艾美隆地区的权威食府。 圣艾美隆地区地下中空,完全是由于地下 石灰石被挖出的缘故,可以说,是石灰石构 建 了 整 个 城 市 ,甚 至 梅 多 克 酒 庄 (Châteaux du Médoc)。在城市中心的超级建筑之下还有 一个城市,布满了地下墓穴和洞穴,形成了 酒窖、美术馆、庙宇、仓库……与之类似,在 其他葡萄园地下,由于石灰石的开采挖掘而 形成的长长的通道,有助于葡萄园排水系统 的运作,同时改善了葡萄藤质量,并且大大 促进了葡萄的杰出品质。 与左岸著名的贵族葡萄酒相反,圣艾美隆 产区的葡萄酒分成从低到高各种级别,从平庸 的口味到高贵的葡萄酒,应有尽有。可以说, 1997 年,柏菲酒庄的红酒名不见经传。但自从 1998 年 杰 勒 德 · 佩 斯 及 其 家 庭 买 下 酒 庄 后 , 人人认可其卓越品质。实至名归恰是如此。쐽

In 2006, the Monbousquet joined the PavieDecesse as a Grand Cru Classé. But the couple’s ambition and commitment to standards didn’t stop here. Back in 2001, they had purchased Clos Lunelles, a nine-hectare property in Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux, a neighbouring denomination where more affordable wine was made. They bought two hectares of exceptional terroir, not far from Château Pavie and PavieDecesse, to make the Château BellevueMondotte, a wine that followed the garagiste philosophies in every way, made with mostly Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, and whose miniscule productions went hand in hand with the rarity of the production and the excellent critic scores that led it to reach cult status. In that same year, the Perses acquired L'Hostellerie de Plaisance, a restaurant in the town centre that has two Michelin stars. For some years after these acquisitions, it was time to consolidate the projects and the businesses, re-establish the existing wines and launch new ones, prepare the ranking promotions, build their reputation and a framework around wine like they had done before with distribution. In 2005, Arômes de Pavie was

born, following the usual Bordeaux model of using the newest vines for the second wine, while waiting for its maturity that will lead its grapes to the first. Between 2011 and 2013, they renovated all the buildings at Château Pavie, with the architect and interior designer Alberto Pinto leading the work. The pretty hillside, with its vines of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, envelops the château, which is centred on a huge hall. The tone is of contemporary sobriety and Bordeaux classicism, both in the carefully aligned interior and the exterior, with a marvellous framing and a lighting set-up that gives the night view a phenomenal glamour. At the top of the entrance, the 2012 update brought the proud inscription 1er “Grand Cru Classé ‘A’. In 2015, Gérard and Chantal expanded the business once more but in a new direction: olive oil. Near to the village of Mouriès, in the heart of the Alpilles mountain range, the Perses bought a 15-hectare property with south-facing sun exposure and 3,200 olive trees aged between 20 and 150 years. The terroir is fabulous for the olive trees, with rocky limestone soils, a balance between the trees and the rest of the vegetation (scrubland) and a particular micro-climate, with the mistral ensuring the healthy ripeness of the olives. They named this property, within the AOP Vallée des Baux de Provence, La Clusière, in homage to the “extinct” Château La Clusière in Saint-Émilion, whose three-hectare plot became part of Château Pavie. Here in Baux, the name is indeed fitting, as a “cluse” is a valley carved in limestone masses, framed by cliffs. Even more recently, the business continued to expand, with the acquisition of L’Envers du Décor, a wine bar and restaurant established in 1987 and considered an institution in Saint-Émilion. Saint-Émilion is hollow, completely mined by the extraction of the limestone that was used to build the entire city and even the Châteaux du Médoc. Beneath the superb constructions in the city centre, another city offers us catacombs and caves, which form cellars, galleries, temples, warehouses... Similarly, beneath some vineyards, the long galleries from where the stone was extracted contribute towards a draining system that improves the vines and plays a big part in the excellence of the grapes. Contrary to the recognised aristocratic wines of the left bank, in Saint-Émilion, the wines grew from the bottom up, from plebeian terroirs to noble wines. It can’t be said that, in 1997, the Château Pavie was a plebeian wine. But since Gérard Perse and his family acquired it in 1998, there are no doubts regarding its nobility. Credit where credit is due. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 2月- 3月 | 103

ESSENTIAL MACAU. FEBRUARY / MARCH 2018  

Launched in 2011, Essential Macau is a bimonthly printed luxury lifestyle magazine targeted at the most affluent visitors to Macau. Contents...

ESSENTIAL MACAU. FEBRUARY / MARCH 2018  

Launched in 2011, Essential Macau is a bimonthly printed luxury lifestyle magazine targeted at the most affluent visitors to Macau. Contents...

Advertisement