esprit 65 Spring 2020

YOUR RESOURCE FOR EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN RETAIL BEAUTY

YOUR YOUR YOUR

65 SPRING 2020

Hair Hair HairHEROES HEROES HEROES

PlantBased Based Plant

Scientifically Validated Tested Scientifically Validated Clinically Clinically Tested

Coping with COVID-19 Plant Based

EVO002_ESPRIT_COVER.indd 1

EVO002_ESPRIT_COVER.indd 1

Companies share their top survival tips EVO002_ESPRIT_COVER.indd 1

Mecca Buyers Must-Haves

Scientifically Validated

Australian Made Made Australian

Clinically Tested

PRODUCTS THE ULTIMATE INFLUENCERS CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT

Best Interview Tressed Nick Mann,

Australian Made

24/6/20 5:15 pm

24/6/20 5:15 pm

GLOBAL HAIRCARE MARKET TRENDS

CEO of Swisse Wellness 24/6/20 5:15 pm

EDITOR’S LETTER There is no doubt the COVID-19 pandemic has changed the world forever.

What will happen not if, but when, a second wave occurs? (At the time of going to print, the Victoria-NSW border was closed for the first time in 100 years as Melbourne recorded its highest daily increase in coronavirus cases.)

How many more jobs will be lost when JobKeeper expires at the end of September? How many further retailers will be shuttered across the country?

Will it be the ‘great retail reset’ that we so often hear about in the media?

The September 11 attacks back in 2001 saw the travel industry permanently change – we have no idea whether COVID-19 will do the same for retail.

But as the uncertainty of a pandemic persists, we must not dwell on the doom and gloom - we need to focus on the positive changes that are happening to businesses (and ourselves) as a result of this global outbreak.

We can safely assume the returning customer will be more cautious with faceto-face interactions, more familiar with online transactions, and hesitant about using product testers – which in the health, beauty, fragrance, cosmetics, and skincare markets, have historically been so crucial.

Perhaps it is time to rethink the whole ‘try before you buy’ model and turn to innovation and technology to optimise the consumer’s experience, health, safety and ultimately sales.

We have known for years that standard skincare and cosmetics testers in-store are unhygienic and a potential breeding ground for disease.

Studies have shown bacteria like staphylococcus (staph) and E. coli, which comes from faecal matter, found in testers.

Infections such as pink eye, herpes, and hepatitis can all be transmitted through contaminated testers.

Michael Brown addresses the issue of hygiene and talks about the great positive shift in the industry while sharing his Six Ps 4| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

Staying positive in a pandemic to Success During a Pandemic on page 78.

Without testers, how will the fragrance industry survive? How do you sell a smell online?

Ainslie Walker chats to business owners from the Australian niche fragrance industry who share the innovative ways they have dealt with the challenges of COVID-19 on page 58.

Another silver lining to the coronavirus cloud is that the pandemic has reignited the shop local movement.

As global supply chains have been disrupted, Aussie consumers have shown their increased support for local businesses.

Many are choosing Australian made products and experiences - we’ve handpicked some of the best Aussie made products for our Homegrown Heroes feature on page 40.

According to a report from COVID-19 Commerce Insight, a large number of beauty products saw triple-digit growth this year compared with the same time last year, while sales of health-related products like essential oil blends and vitamins increased as people looked for ways to de-stress at home.

See what Nick Mann, CEO of Swisse Wellness, had to say about the COVID-19 crisis escalating the demand for vitamins and supplements with our exclusive interview on page 16.

Key figures in the industry share their COVID-19 challenges, but also the way their businesses have benefited from the virus, including increased demand for sex toys, as well as gift purchases - seems we are keen on pleasuring ourselves during iso, but also others. More on page 48.

In times of crisis, we often see creativity and innovation thrive. COVID-19 has been no exception.

Without access to a model, photographer or stylist, Sarah Laidlaw took the lockdown as an opportunity to create a series of stunning editorial images on her Instagram, often creating stunning

accessories using general household items, craft supplies and her limitless imagination.

Find out more on page 38.

While the world around us changes and adapts to the new norm, what is now absolutely undisputed is the fact that social media and virtual meetings will never replace the physical act of people getting together and socialising.

However, with events off the calendar for the foreseeable future, this issue our Out & About section has been renamed In & Online. We take you through the latest brand immersions, held via webinar, on page 42.

The home haircare market saw an upswing in sales during the pandemic - Elisabeth King explores the global trend for clean beauty, natural products and innovation when it comes to hair care on page 12.

On a final note, we have some extremely exciting news to share here at esprit – we have launched Australia’s first retail beauty business podcast.

Hosted by publisher Nicci Herrera, Beauty and the Best aims to help local businesses grow by tapping into the minds influential figures in the beauty retail industry. Find out more on page 26.

As we embrace the new normal of working remotely, staying at home and practising social distancing, don’t forget to stay in touch via any of our social channels – Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and LinkedIn – and subscribe to our weekly e-newsletter to stay up-to-date with the latest retail beauty industry news.

FOLLOW US: @espritmagazine Facebook.com/EspritMagazineAustralia

©2020 Clinique Laboratories, LLC

72 hours of auto-replenishing hydration.

From $20.00*

For skin that feels plump, dewy and totally refreshed, it’s all about non-stop hydration. Activated aloe water and hyaluronic acid work together to plump skin with moisture. Auto-replenishing technology helps skin create it’s own internal water source, so it stays hydrated for 72 hours, even after washing your face.

Moisture Surge™ 72-Hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator. *Suggested retail price.

Allergy tested. Formulated without parabens, phthalates, fragrance. Just happy skin.

issue

65

Contents Subscribe to esprit Magazine Australia’s online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips and more. www.espritmagazineaustralia.com.au

EspritMagazineAustralia

évolis® Professional range By taking hair care to the roots, restoring the hair cycle and combining natural botanical extracts and revolutionary formulations, évolis® has been developed to deliver longer, stronger, healthier, thick hair that is touchable, with lustrous shine and effortless control. évolis® is the first topical product that targets the hair follicle directly and is backed by real studies on real people showing real results.

@espritmagazine

Previous issues

4

Editor’s letter

8 Contributors

60 Accord – Personal Care

10 C over Story – évolis® Professional

61 Wellness

12 Trend – Best Tressed

Contact details esprit Magazine Australia Editor At Large and Magazine Founder Andrea Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 E: andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au Publisher and Commercial Manager Nicci Herrera M: +61 (0)426 826 977 E: nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au Editor Michelle Ruzzene M: +61 (0)402 277 286 E: michelle@esprit-magazine.com.au Art Director Leanne Hogbin E: leanne@intermedia.com.au NEW MAILING ADDRESS esprit Magazine Australia P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia Subscription Rates $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$.

Articles that appear in esprit Magazine Australia may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers.

The opinions expressed in esprit Magazine Australia are not necessarily those of the publishers.

Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd – a division of Intermedia Group 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 P: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583

58 Fragrance News – Ainslie Walker

14 How to Grow Your Hair 16 I nterview – Nick Mann, CEO of Swisse Wellness

62 R udderless in Iso – Andrea Ferrari 64 T he New Way to Meditate – Olivia Ferrari 66 Self Care Essentials

22 5 Minutes with The Veronicas

69 Influencer

28 Pharmacy News

70 Man in the Mirror

30 Industry News

72 Aussie Made – Alison Goodger

40 Homegrown Heroes

74 T he 5 Minute Makeup Routine – Ross Andrewartha

42 In and Online 45 Business 46 Buyers Lists – Mecca 48 Coping with COVID-19 51 Online Retail Round Up 56 M y Journey – Alex Bateman and Kate Squires

76 D ear Cosmetic Counter Heroes – Icy Ling 78 T he 6 P’s to Success – Michael Brown 80 Brand News 82 Have You Met... Sarah Laidlaw

Environmental statement: The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities. As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers. This magazine has been printed on paper produced from sustainably sourced wood and pulp fibre and is accredited under PEFC chain of custody. PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of forests. The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable.

HYDRATION HERO The Treatment Lotion Discover healing hydration that helps rescue your skin. This celebrated hydrator delivers an instant rush of deep hydration that lasts all day, improves texture and won’t cause bikou bumps. Skin feels balanced and its own extraordinary radiant potential is revealed.

cremedelamer.com.au #LoveLaMer

Contributors

Editor At Large

Magazine Founder

ANDREA FERRARI One of her proudest professional moments was winning Beauty Directory’s first-ever Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism in 2011 - peer-voted recognition.

Andrea founded esprit Magazine Australia in 2004 coming from a heritage of founding the original Esprit in the UK in 1987.

Armed with a diploma in Fashion Journalism from the London College of Fashion, Andrea completed her journalism training on the job at IPC Business Press on the leading weekly trade magazine, Hairdressers Journal.

In the late 70s, London’s print and fashion industries were both hotbeds of creativity and Andrea cut her teeth as a writer and interviewer in the company of accomplished mentors. Becoming editor of Beauty Counter, the UK pharmacy trade journal, she learned the power of the pharmacy assistant in the customer-to-purchase relationship.

In 1987 Andrea fulfilled a gap in the UK market for a trade magazine for the retail beauty industry. Emigrating to Australia in 2003, she created esprit for the Australian market.

Associate Editor

Business Features

ELISABETH KING Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming.

In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010. She is also the beauty editor of House & Garden magazine and a weekly columnist for beautydirectory.com.au.

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments.

8| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

AINSLIE WALKER Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014.

Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www.ainsliewalker.com.

OLIVIA FERRARI Olivia is an English-born medium, masseuse and yoga teacher, based in Sydney’s inner west. Olivia has a customised approach to each individual client’s mind and body wellness derived from learnings she has gained from her studies and experience in Cambodia, India, Byron Bay and Sydney.

MICHAEL BROWN Growing up as a dancer , Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of make-up artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as Marc Jacobs Beauty Ambassador.

EMILY BENCIC As deputy editor of Appliance Retailer and editor of Retailbiz within the Intermedia Group, Emily has more than five years of experience writing about the local and global retail industry, as well as the appliance and technology sectors, covering the latest news from big brand retailers.

ICY LING Ni Hao (which means ‘Hello’ in Chinese). My name is Icy Ling, known as icybutterfly. Some people think I am an Australian Chinese influencer. Actually, I work for an East Coast, well recognised - high fashion, lifestyle and beauty magazine (to local Chinese), called ‘Indulgence’.

After working in retail, evolving to become a blogger and freelance editor, I have now become a senior fashion and beauty editor, also leading the magazine’s digital team – busy, but I am truly grateful for being able to work for my passion.

ROSS ANDREWARTHA Ross Andrewartha was practically born with a makeup brush in his hand. The flamboyant Brit experimented with makeup from an early age, forfeiting a university degree to take up a full-time position with MAC Cosmetics on the shop floor as a retail artist. From there he quickly progressed, with stints at Coty Prestige as national training manager and Illamasqua as global training manager. More recently, Ross was director of artistry and education for Yves Saint Laurent and he is currently Chadstone’s official Beauty Insider.

Maria Halasz using the évoliscope hair assessment tool.

Head of the Class

évolis® Professional Navigates COVID-19 Crisis and Emerges Stronger

by Elisabeth King

Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, the concept of “Me Time” had a different, more indulgent meaning. But as consumers endured lockdown restrictions in major markets, wellness for the body and mind moved to centre stage in personal care.

Stress was already a major problem before the coronavirus crisis, but elevated use of smartphones and the internet, difficulty sleeping, and heightened levels of anxiety worsened the problem. That’s where proactive self-care comes in, especially when it comes to hair issues, says Maria Halasz, CEO of life sciences firm Cellmid, the manufacturer of the breakthrough évolis® Professional range.

SURGE IN ONLINE SALES AS STRESS INCREASES Hair loss has been a major concern for centuries, but the problem is getting worse for people of all ages. According to a major US study, women and men who experience increased stress are 32 per cent more likely to suffer hair loss. Those with health problems or who take regular medications are also 81 per cent more likely to experience thinning hair and loss.

10| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

The COVID-19 outbreak has produced a huge amount of added stress and that means increased hair loss, says Halasz. “évolis® Professional sales in the US and Australia have risen 40 per cent year-to-date. Hair loss affects self-perception and confidence and consumers stuck at home during the pandemic looked for hair products that are customised to address their personal haircare goals, including more youthful, thicker and healthy-looking hair.” évolis® Professional debuted in the Australian market in 2017 and following rapid growth has become the dominant player in the women’s hair loss market and captured a sizeable percentage of the men’s business. “évolis® Professional is the first clinically-validated, plant-based hair loss treatment on the market,” says Halasz.

“The original technology was 12 years in development and botanical actives such as

Rosa multiflora and Sanguisorba officinalis, the anti-FGF5 extract, keratin, wheat proteins and concentrated antioxidants form the core of the entire évolis® range. After four months of regular use of our hero product - Reverse Activator - there is a dramatic reduction in hair loss and increased hair growth.”

E-COMMERCE PARTNERSHIPS PAY OFF This year was earmarked for expanded marketing and the rollout of the évoliscope, a hair assessment tool which allows men and women to monitor the condition of their hair and scalp health, across Priceline’s national network. “We initially planned the strategy to begin in March, but the COVID-19 pandemic took the initiative off the table,” says Halasz.

Like many businesses, the company stepped up plans to diversify and pivot.

PHARMACIES AND BRICKSAND-MORTAR REMAIN A TOP PRIORITY But bricks-and-mortar retailers remain a top priority for évolis® Professional, says Halasz. “The market started opening up again in June with more people returning to work and shops, pubs and cafes reopening. The évolis® Professional range is the biggest breakthrough in topical hair loss treatment in 30 years and pharmacies are in the box seat to explain the importance of clinical studies and proven results in the hair loss category.”

We are re-engaging with major pharmacy partners such as Priceline and re-igniting our plan to roll out the évoliscope in

selected outlets to help consumers discover more about our ground-breaking, natural alternative to hair loss treatments,” adds Halasz. “To adhere to social distancing rules, we will begin with 20 to 30 stores and re-assess on a regular basis. We are also looking to help new retailers interested in stocking our products by assisting BAs to talk to individual age groups and their concerns from hair loss to hair length.” évolis® Professional offers three targeted collections. The Reverse Hair Restoration System, includes a shampoo, conditioner and serum known as the Activator. In clinical studies, 100 per cent of testers reported new hair growth after 90 days. The Promote range is for women looking to increase hair length and contains the super moisturiser baobab which helps to increase hair length by up to 20 per cent in four months. The Prevent range is infused with mangosteen, goji berry and green tea to maintain healthy hair and nourish the scalp. “Our icon product is the Reverse Activator,” says Halasz. “Sales have been incredible during the COVID-19 pandemic because it works and epitomises our root-to-tip philosophy”.

SKINIFICATION OF HAIRCARE/ COVID-19 FOCUSES GLOBAL ATTENTION ON NATURAL Anti-ageing, pollution defence, natural ingredients, hair loss and other concerns have contributed to the so-called “Skinification” of haircare. In most major markets, including Australia, skincare and haircare sales increased during the coronavirus crisis. Analysts predict that the global professional haircare market will reach US$26.2 billion by 2026, fuelled by the increased fusion of scalp and hair health and aesthetics.

Plant-based products are leading the pack as the focus on natural ingredients has boomed during the COVID-19 outbreak. évolis® Professional launched in the US in 2017 and sales are growing rapidly. “The European market is doing well, and the brand has appeared on the QVC shopping

channel in Germany,” says Halasz.

“This boosted our existing presence in Germany, Switzerland and Austria through Douglas, Europe’s largest specialist beauty and fragrance chain.”

The Chinese market is progressing well, says Halasz. “We are selling our Japanese formulations in China and there has been encouraging growth over the past year or two. Hair loss is one of the most popular online searches in China.”

COVER STORY

“We seriously started to focus on online partnerships and embarked on a major communications strategy. The results have been amazing and I have been very impressed with the proactive and professional approach of leading e-commerce retailers such as Adore Beauty. Priceline stores were open as essential businesses during the lockdown period, but we also had notable increases from its online business.”

The Australian Shopping Network partnered with the Seven Network to launch the Openshop channel in August last year. With a focus on beauty, jewellery, fashion, technology, home and health, the channel transmits to major state capital cities and regional areas. “Openshop has been a great channel for us during the pandemic,” says Halasz. “It easily met social distancing rules with only one guest and one presenter on set.”

Online shopping increased significantly during the COVID-19 crisis and Halasz believes the development is here to stay. “The online space has become more important to évolis® Professional, as it has for other brands. We are re-assessing our approach to e-commerce to reach out to more consumers as people are more likely to buy online because of improved delivery times, a wider choice and more targeted information.”

SCIENCE FOCUS PROVES INVALUABLE TO SUCCESS Halasz has worked for biotechnology companies for more than 25 years and has a science degree in microbiology from the University of Western Australia. She has been CEO of ASX-listed Cellmid for the past 13 years and the company’s preeminence as a science-backed business was invaluable during the COVID-19 crisis.

“The coronavirus outbreak came as a bit of shock in January and we quickly realised this was something very serious,” says Halasz. “By February it had become clear that COVID-19 was a global pandemic. The Australian government came up with some very good information about hygiene, social distancing and more even before the WHO made similar announcements in March.”

Unfortunately, there was so much misinformation on the Internet that we felt we had a duty as a life science company to help our customers to navigate the crisis in small ways, adds Halasz. “We made a video on correct hand washing technique for example and shared it on social media to assist existing and prospective customers.” évolis® Professional’s commitment to science and innovation will see new products in the coming months, adds Halasz. While tight-lipped about the details, she confirmed the company’s continued focus on the development of differentiated, plant-based and clean beauty hair products. www.evolisproducts.com.au

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |11

Best

Tressed Global haircare market fuelled by clean beauty, natural products and innovation.

by Elisabeth King The global haircare market is expanding rapidly as millions of consumers in developed and emerging countries style their hair more frequently, wash away the greys and focus on boosting scalp health. In 2018, worldwide haircare sales reached US$87.9 billion and are expected to surge to US$105.14 billion by 2025.

The haircare category has moved well beyond basic grooming.

Today’s formulas claim to repair and enhance through new actives and are increasingly following trends from skincare such as anti-ageing, microbiome research and CBD (cannabidiol), the much talked-about ingredient derived from the hemp plant.

Distribution channels have also undergone significant change.

Pharmacies, supermarkets and hair salons remain the leading suppliers of haircare. But department stores, online marketplaces and direct-to-consumer online sales also offer mainstream brands and a growing number of niche products.

ANTI-POLLUTION, SUPERFOODS, VEGAN AND LUXURY

There has been strong growth in naturally-based products, but science-backed SKUs are well to the fore. For example, Mintel reports that global concern about pollution offers major opportunities to the haircare sector. According to the global researcher, 27 per cent of internet users surveyed show interest in anti-pollution products.

Nutrient-rich superfoods, known collectively as alimetics, are all the rage in new haircare releases, notes Mintel. Many, such as quinoa, avocado, coconut and sunflower, are well-known to consumers because of their importance in the food and beverage industries and showcasing their benefits in haircare is easier to leverage.

According to Andrew McDougall, associate director of beauty and personal care at Mintel, vegan claims have boomed in the haircare category, alongside refill/refillable and convenient packaging claims. Odour-neutralising benefits and fragranced hair mists are also an emerging niche. “We are also seeing prebiotic and allergy-tested claims emerging, although they remain niche,” he revealed.

Prestige and luxury haircare has been in the media spotlight recently. Although growing at a faster rate than mass, the sector remains a niche category and spills over into professional haircare. For example, Kao, the Japanese multinational and owner of Goldwell, Jergens and Molton Brown, acquired US luxury brand, Oribe, in 2017 to expand its salon division portfolio. Sisley, the French luxury skincare brand, launched the Hair Rituel range, including Volumizing Shampoo and Fortifying Serum, two years ago by translating its plant-based expertise into targeted solutions for hair.

MASS BRANDS CATER TO EVOLVING CONSUMER NEEDS

Mass brands still account for the lion’s share of the global haircare market and all the major players have been proactive in recognising how consumers have evolved, notably with 12| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

the increased demand for clean beauty or naturally-based products. Dove has launched Restoring Ritual, Strengthening Ritual and Destress Ritual ranges and Coconut Hydration Anti-Dandruff SKUs. Pantene is promoting a 0% silicone-free stance in products such as Full & Thick Shampoo Nature Infusion and Charcoal Root Renewal Conditioner.

P&G’s Herbal Essences has become the first global haircare brand endorsed by the UK’s prestigious Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew. Clairol now offers Natural Instincts home hair colourant and Tresemmé has added Shampoo Botanique and Thick and Full Shampoo with Collagen and Glycerol. Garnier Fructis has enjoyed global success with its Hair Food mask

CLEAN BEAUTY SHIFTS TO HAIR

TREND REPORT

familiar with and transition the success of micellar water cleansers from skincare to hair.

The clean beauty trend is also surging in haircare.

For example, Derma E has expanded its haircare offerings, which are sold online in Australia, with a new cleansing line - Thickening Shampoo and Conditioner. Containing panthenol, argan oil, eucalyptus and spearmint oils, the therapeutic formula nourishes the scalp and hair follicles and helps the hair look thicker and fuller.

Today’s consumers are aware of the many benefits of not only choosing clean food options, but also the importance of choosing the best clean products for their hair and skin, says Barbara Roll, CMO of Derma E. “Where in the past, sulphates, parabens and various alcohols were used in most products, consumers now seek products that are not only healthier options for their skin and hair, but also the environment, while still demanding high performance.”

Henkel, the maker of Schwarzkopf, has also tracked the clean beauty trend. In April, the German multinational launched Better Natured, a premium range of 12 naturally-derived formulas with professional-level performance in the US. The vegan products contain a triple plant milk blend based on orchid and coconut. Promising ‘good clean fun’, a colour range debuted in June in the US and Europe.

No longer are haircare products split into two major camps - totally results focused or ingredient/health focused. A good case in point are dry shampoos, whose sales escalated during the COVID-19 lockdown. The emphasis has switched from concern about the damage caused by too-frequent washing to the more environmentally-oriented water saving benefits. According to Andrew McDougall of Mintel, there is now a water consumption angle as consumers start to monitor their impact on the planet and dry shampoo brands are starting to position themselves from an eco-friendly standpoint.

MILLIONS INVESTED IN R&D FOR NEW ACTIVES

range, incorporating superfoods such as goji berry, avocado, papaya, macadamia nut and banana.

Micellar cleansing waters for the skin have been around for decades. But the global market has increased from US$123 million in 2013 and is expected to reach US$272 million by 2023. Even though all shampoos already contain micelles, microballs of cleansing oil molecules, major brands such as Pantene, Herbal Essences, Sukin and Palmolive have released micellar-labelled shampoo and conditioner products recently.

The ranges claim that micellar shampoos are more gentle on the hair for daily washing. But the main aim is to promote an ingredient that consumers are already

With the haircare market growing so strongly, millions of dollars are being invested in a strong R&D pipeline. The giants of the global cosmetic ingredients industry have been very dynamic in the haircare category in the first half of 2020 to drive the creation of more effective products which tackle major global hair concerns - ageing, hair loss and scalp care. BASF, the largest chemical producer in the world, has launched the styling polymer, Luviset 360. Designed for a wide range of styling products, including gels, creams and waxes, it provides flexible, long-lasting hold without flaking.

The German giant has also released Scalposine, an active that soothes and purifies the scalp by decreasing the production of sebum and replenishing scalp microbiota. Interest in scalp care is trending globally, especially in Asia, and Clariant Active Ingredients debuted EquiScalp in April. Utilising the flavonoid phloridzin from the stem cells of the Malus domestica apple, the active soothes scalp irritation, including tightness, dryness, itchiness and redness.

Mibelle revolutionised the skincare sector with its widely used apple stem cell extract. The Swiss biotech player recently launched PhytoCellTec Malus domestica Hair, a plant stem cell extract that targets human hair cells to fight premature ageing and hair loss.

Givaudan Active Beauty has been investing heavily in natural ingredients and fragrances over the past two years. The latest release from the world’s largest company in the flavour and fragrance industry is Naturein Wheat Peptide. Manufactured from 100 per cent French origin wheat and treated with green fractionation, it claims to be a clean, sustainable alternative to cationic guar, the most widely-used de-tangling ingredient in haircare. According to the company’s Clean and Natural Study 2019, 91 per cent of consumers surveyed are interested in the clean beauty concept for haircare and 80 per cent showed a preference for wheat protein.

The natural trend is also entering men’s hair colourants. Silab, the French specialist in natural actives, has launched Agreynist, a plant-based, anti-free radical and pro-pigmenting ingredient which allows hair to return to its natural colour. Composed of biopeptides and polyphenols, it meets all the regulatory requirements for inclusion in new products in the US, China, Japan and Europe. Silab believes the potential is huge for one of the first-to-market natural solutions for greying hair focusing on the men’s market.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |13

How to grow your hair Andrea Ferrari, esprit’s Founder, has regrown her fallen hair thanks to regular use of the évolis hair loss/ageing regime.

Here she chats with the scientist behind the brand, Dr Dominic Burg, to share key benefits, breaking it down to a simple approach you can share with your customers in consultations.

Andrea Ferrari, esprit Magazine Founder, with her hairdresser Stacy D’Amico, Regional Trainer at MUK hair products demonstrating the swathes of growth seen from 12 months of diligent évolis Reverse Activator use.

If I was to be shipwrecked on a desert island, but had the chance of grabbing three products from my beauty bag, I would take my Bush Medijina Skin Sanity Miracle Cream (it soothes lips, heals cuts and soothes bites… literally an ‘everything’ cure), a thick moisturiser-cum-sunscreen AND my évolis Reverse Activator!

Lip balm because I feel like I’m going nuts if my lips begin to feel dried out. A face cream for its soothing nourishment and to help me not look too prune-like when I’m rescued. And my évolis Reverse Activator because I really, truly, deeply value my crowning glory, my head of

hair, the ‘rooftop garden’ I have been re-growing since it fell out and broke off a year-and-a-half ago. évolis offers three different regimes along with styling and care products for men and women.

Underlying each is the brand’s scientifically proven technology that actively tackles hair cycle dysfunction by helping hair stay in the growth phase for longer. This reduces hair fall and increases the proportion of actively growing follicles.

Here’s how to recommend the right évolis regime for your customers’ different concerns.

évolis Style & Treat Dry Shampoo winner of the Best Luxury Dry Shampoo category in the HelloGiggles Beauty Crush Awards 2020.

14| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

WHY I LOVE ÉVOLIS First up, I stand by my recommendation for évolis Activator in particular, because IT WORKS. My hair fell out in patches and broke off back in early 2019. The overall condition was “struggling” and my poor little ponytail was thin. I met Gary McCaw, Sales Director at Advangen/évolis at the APP pharmacy exhibition in April 2019 and had an évoliscope assessment and product recommendation. I have used the product ever since. My hair is thick, resilient, there’s extensive new growth and my ponytail is thick!

HOW TO START YOUR CUSTOMER CONSULTATION We can look at the range in a couple of ways, according to Biochemist and Systems Biologist, Dr. Dominic Burg, Chief Scientist at évolis. As a Beauty Assistant consulting with a customer, you can start with looking at the person’s hair type and texture. What is the condition and texture of their hair? “Very fine, limp hair needs boosting. I would recommend évolis Reverse. If the hair is anywhere from thick or thin but overall lacking condition, and there are scalp issues, I would suggest évolis Prevent. Finally, Promote is great for people

COMPLEMENTARY PRODUCTS Complementing the Shampoo, Conditioner & Activator regimes are two supporting products.

White Deep Conditioning Mask, full of hydrating and nourishing ingredients,

FEATURE

with dry hair that is prone to breakage, and it also helps hair grow longer, faster. If thicker, fuller, longer and stronger hair is the aim, we recommend évolis Promote.

The other way of approaching the consultation is from the ‘hair loss challenge’ scenario, says Dominic. “Customers who have lost hair already or have fine hair that’s not growing very well will benefit from Reverse. At the other end of the spectrum we have Promote for people who want their hair to grow faster – it keeps long hair growing in good condition; and for women with natural post-partum hair loss. Then there are customers whose concerns are with an itchy scalp or a generally problematic scalp or those that are worried about starting to lose their hair.

It’s not so much about their hair, but about a healthy scalp and follicle environment.

We recommend Prevent. It is formulated with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant ingredients such as mangosteen.

“Now, to wrap those two perspectives into one approach for your customer consultations we offer this simple approach: Losing hair – Reverse. Needs condition or won’t grow – Promote. Scalp issues – Prevent.”

Each regime comprises shampoo and conditioner and the essential Activator. For me, the Activator is the juice that gets to the root (excuse the pun) of the hair loss concern. For just over a year I have been using Reverse Activator EVERY DAY, twice a day. And this is key. Customers seeking the best results from évolis need to commit to diligence of use. That’s morning and evening application. I have my little Activator pot sitting on my bathroom shelf, in view as a visual reminder to use in the morning and use again in the evening. And it has paid flourishing dividends.

Dominic points out that introducing customers to a whole new hair-health program can be overwhelming for them.

“While évolis works best for overall hair health if used as a system, if your customer is reluctant to take on the whole system, always start them with the Activator. Some women, and men, are addicted to their own shampoo and conditioner, maybe for the fragrance they love, so let them keep using that and build the Activator into their regime to specifically treat the follicles.”

Follicle health is like skin health, he says.

It’s where hair growth and condition start.

fortifies hair and reduces split ends. Used once a week on damp hair and wrapped in a towel, it’s left on for “as long as you like, even overnight,” says Dominic. The golden rule is: “always rinse out with cool water.” recommends Dominic.

Style & Treat Dry Shampoo is so much more than your ordinary powdery dry shampoo. On application is absorbs excess oil and revives your hairstyle; it gives the roots a lift, increases volume and boosts fullness. Additionally, antioxidant botanicals give the scalp and follicles a treatment, unlike many well-known dry shampoos which can irritate the scalp.

CUSTOMER CONSULTATIONS évolis has been built on talking with its customers. “We’ve always been about a consultative approach,” says Dominic.

“There is no typical customer. Hair challenges strike people at different times through such things as stress, yo-yo dieting, emotional events and genetic predisposition. Men and women can experience thinning hair in their early ‘20s.

With such individual nuances to the hair loss/hair growth concern, an authentic approach with your customers works well.

“Through your consultation you may have to group a few concerns and get a good feeling for which regime will BEST suit their hair type. We cannot suit every single problem, so we look at the common challenges and address the leading concerns.”

THE ÉVOLISCOPE When the évoliscope was used on my scalp it was the visual experience that hooked me in on my évolis journey. So, what is this magic wand?

The évoliscope is a hand-held tool with a tiny camera on the end which magnifies the scalp up to 200 times to clearly see each follicle. It is connected to a digital screen so you and your customer can journey across the scalp looking at the follicles and scalp in detail, up close and personal.

If you have an évoliscope set up in your store or pharmacy, you will have received training on how to use it, but here we paint the picture for those not yet offering the évoliscope service.

To get to the root of your customers’ hair challenges you have them seated in front of the screen. As you apply the camera tip of the tool to the scalp the customer will see the magnified images of their scalp on the screen. With your training you will be able to analyse the scalp condition and follicle health and advise on the best treatment regime. And together with your customer you can monitor improvements over time.

The company is rolling out the évoliscope to specialist pharmacies where they can run an event day. Interested pharmacies can make enquires through Gary McCaw, Sales Director at évolis.

WANT TO LEARN MORE? Interested in further training with evolis, event days with evoliscope or becoming a stockist, please enquire through: Gary McCaw Director of Sales ANZ Advangen International Pty Ltd Mob: + 61 434 880 442 E: mccaw@advangen.com.au www.evolisproducts.com.au

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |15

Ashley Hart is a Swisse ambassador.

SWISSE TIMING NICK MANN, CEO OF AUSTRALIA’S NUMBER ONE VITAMINS AND SUPPLEMENTS BRAND, SPILLS ALL ABOUT SWISSE’S GAME-CHANGING SKINCARE RANGE.

Nick Mann.

by Elisabeth King Major events frequently fast-track well-established trends. The COVID-19 crisis escalated demand for vitamins and supplements and naturally-based skincare as consumers hunkered down at home and focused on becoming more healthy - inside and out. But at the beginning of the year, the Global Consumer Trends 2030 report from international researcher Mintel tapped wellness as one of the major categories that will shape the health and beauty categories over the next 10 years.

Self-care and well-being have a long history in many cultures and the term wellness has become as ubiquitous as ‘green’ in the personal care sector. Consumers are looking for nutritional, topical and aromatherapy remedies through skincare and beauty-from-within supplements such as collagen. Euromonitor International rubber-stamped Mintel’s prediction and rated wellness as one of its Top 10 Global Consumer Trends of 2020.

CORE FOCUS ON NEW SKINCARE RANGE

Few companies are better placed than Swisse Wellness to meet the soaring demand for vitamins, nutraceuticals and natural skincare incorporating proven active ingredients and functional benefits that address specific needs. Nick Mann joined the global wellness company in 2017 as sales director ANZ, after a 20 year career in sales and marketing with leading multinationals such as Treasury Wine Estates, Motorola and Gillette. He was appointed managing director ANZ in September last year.

In the first quarter of the year, Swisse re-charged its skincare business with the launch of the Healthy Beautiful range, a lineup of new products, formulas and revamped packaging organised into six pillars. The company entered the skincare space in 2012 and has regularly promoted its 16| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

offerings with campaigns such as Discover Real Beauty Inside and Out in 2017, fronted by brand ambassador Ashley Hart, the wellknown Australian model and practicing yogi.

Although we have had a skincare range for some time, we are making it a core focus of the business, says Mann. “We plan to invest in marketing as skincare is very symbiotic to our vitamin and supplement products.

There’s a big market for beauty-from-within products in Australia and overseas. Our hero products such as Ultiboost Hair Skin Nails+ and Grape Seed have long been favourites with health-conscious consumers, who believe it’s just as important to know what they are putting into their bodies as what they are putting on their skin.”

SOARING POTENTIAL IN CBD AND HEMP

Mann is very enthusiastic about the potential of CBD (cannabidiol) and hemp. Derived

Some of the Swisse products.

from the cannabis sativa plant, CBD is having a huge impact on personal care and health, particularly in the US where top-line sales CBD products reached US$4.2 billion last year. The huge surge in CBD and hemp skincare products has also been phenomenal, climbing from US$17 million in 2018 to US$311 million in 2019. With anti-inflammatory and anti-acne properties, in addition to a high omega 3 and 6 content, CBD is a natural hero ingredient for skincare.

Nine hemp-based products are included in the Healthy Beautiful range’s Restore pillar, including Hempseed Facial Oil, Replenishing Cream Moisturiser and Hydrating Body Moisturiser. Created in collaboration with Bod Australia, the medicinal cannabis company, the products were launched in February through 2000 stores nationwide including Coles, Priceline and Chemist Warehouse. “A first for Swisse, the rollout was a strategic move for the brand, as we focus on offering innovative wellness solutions that respond to consumer shifts and growing demand,” says Mann.

Hemp is very exciting because it’s not just a great business opportunity, but speaks to our brand beliefs and aligns with our sustainability strategy and commitments, adds Mann. “The adoption of our hempseed range from our retailers has been overwhelming.”

PERSONALISATION AND THE COLLAGEN BOOM

Tailored products are a major trend in skincare and Swisse has taken this targeted approach with the other five categories of its new skincare offering. The Glow products support more radiant skin. The Balance SKUs are formulated for problem-prone skin and the Renew products revitalise skin in need of a boost. The Nourish and Bright pillars promote vitality and increased vibrancy, respectively. “From conception to launch, we worked on the range for two years,” says Mann. “They also dovetail with our best-selling manuka and argan products.”

Swisse is internationally recognised for its high quality, nutrient-rich ranges, backed by science and world-class manufacturing standards. Consumers today have a self-care attitude focused on prevention and maintenance, says Mann. “We have had major success in China on the back of our collagen products. Our Collagen Glow with Peptides, launched earlier this year, has done well in China and Australia.”

Swisse re-entered the US market (online only) in 2017, following a three-year hiatus as the company focused on expansion in Europe and Asia. In May, Clinical Collagen + Beauty Blend was launched, the second innovation developed specifically for the US market. Formulated with grass-fed bovine collagen, Verisol bioactive collagen peptides and hyaluronic acid, the supplement was clinically tested to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

MAJOR DEMOGRAPHIC - WELLNESS WARRIORS AGED 20 TO 35

Sustainability is right at the top of the consumer agenda today. Beauty shoppers want to reduce their carbon and plastic footprints and they are thinking more about supply chains, ingredients and packaging, says Mann. “They want to reduce excess packaging and demand major commitments from brands. Our core market is young women aged 20 to 35. We call them Wellness Warriors and they tend to get their beauty and health advice online or from social media. They want to repair sun damage and prevent premature ageing and are fit and active. They are looking for products that meet their lifestyle needs and that be integrated into their wellness regime.”

Swisse counts itself lucky that pharmacies and supermarkets remained open as essential businesses during the COVID-19 lockdown. “Priceline and Chemist Warehouse are both great retailers and partners. They share their insights and have provided key help with the new skincare range. They also have incredible online businesses.”

PROFILE

Swisse Skincare Manuka Honey Glow Boosting Moisturiser.

SWISSE WELLNESS FAST FACTS •S wisse Wellness was founded in Melbourne in 1969 by Kevin Ring.

• Radek Sali became CEO in 2007 and under his leadership Swisse became the number one vitamin and supplements brand in Australia and number one in the Chinese online market.

• Hong Kong-based Biostime International acquired Swisse for AUD$1.7 billion in 2016.

The parent company changed its name to the Health and Happiness Group.

• According to a report in the Australian Financial Review, Swisse revenues for the calendar year 2019 reached AUD$832 million.

• Swisse entered the Indian market in March this year.

The company’s products are available in the US, Australia, New Zealand, China, Singapore, India, the UK, Italy and the Netherlands, with plans to launch into 29 more countries over the next five years.

STRONG DEMAND FROM CHINA

Alibaba, the Chinese e-commerce titan, was kickstarted by the SARS outbreak of 2002-2004 and China is the largest online marketplace in the world. During Alibaba’s 2019 Singles’ Day shopping event last November, Australia ranked third in terms of gross merchandise volume selling into China, after Japan and the US. Four of the top 5 Australian brands were health and supplement companies with Swisse taking out the number one ranking.

“We are seeing strong demand for collagen products and powders in China,” says Mann. “We also have major sales in calcium and calcium-related products and grape seed. Chinese consumers have developed a major interest in our clay masks and eye masks and we are looking to capitalise on this momentum with our latest skincare offering. ” www.swisse.com.au ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |17

Introducing our new and extended cheek collection. Emulate a healthy glow and indulge in cheeks and temples draped in colour.

BECOME A STOCKIST Become an authorised stockist of Australia’s leading prestige makeup brand. With flexible opening options, dedicated support and 27 years of brand heritage, Napoleon Perdis could be the point of difference in your store or salon. Submit your interest today!

“The Napoleon Perdis brand is iconic and has legions of faithful devotees worldwide. It is a pleasure to present and use the products on our customers. I’m very grateful for the in-store support and constant communication and training in all areas.”

Linda - TerryWhite Chemmart Mawson Central SA

SOPHIE KALOFONOS | GENERAL MANAGER SALES & EDUCATION SOPHIE.KALOFONOS@NAPOLEONPERDIS.COM

N A P O L EO N P E R D I S. CO M

INTRODUCING SENSORI+ DETOXIFYING SKINCARE COLLECTION From the farm to the lab and the wellness savvy shoppers

Behind every skin disorder is a disrupted skin microbiome. Just like the gut, the skin requires good bacteria for optimal health, Sensori+ detoxifying and rejuvenating skincare collection is enriched with multiple probiotic and prebiotic fractions ensuring holistic yet powerful results.

Containing plant derived active ingredients backed by science and enhanced with the healing power of precious oils from natural botanicals, the range helps to detox and repair the skin as well as resetting its microbiomes.

Free from sulphates and paraben, vegan & cruelty free

SERUM IN OIL THE ULTIMATE HERO Even skin tone, improved texture and boosted skin glow!

This unique bi-phase formula is a blend of Probiotic Kombucha and Prebiotic Artichoke in the water phase, seeding the skin with good bacteria, balanced with soothing hemp seed oil in the oil phase to reduce micro inflammation and flare ups.

Probiotic Kombucha – Improves skin health by reinforcing its protective shield and balances the skin microbiological environment. The skin represents the largest organ in the human body and as such, its main function is to act as a barrier to extrinsic factors including physical, chemical and microbial threats. Probiotics work on your skin in a similar way as they work for your digestive system, they help the skin’s microbiome to remain in a balanced state.

Prebiotic Artichoke – Provides a healthy environment allowing the probiotics to thrive on the skin.

Hemp Seed Oil – Nourishes, soothes and enhances the skin moisture barrier and helps reduce redness and irritation. Prebiotic artichoke is an incredibly effective ingredient to provide dramatic firming for the skin. It minimises enlarged pores, firms sagging skin and helps to build collagen while activating moisture retention.

The rich supply of antioxidants and peptides in artichokes improves the skin texture and nourishes the cells, diminishing fine lines, wrinkles and blemishes.

The result is a smooth, youthful appearance.

Placing the consumer at the heart of the brand, Sensori+ is launching the Detoxifying Facial skincare collection in two steps including a reverse NPD program allowing customers to try the products for a few weeks and give their feedback where Sensori+ will be adjusting the range accordingly. Consumer centricity in action!

SENSORI+, A BRAND COMMITTED TO OUR PLANET Sensori+ is driven by the love of nature and is committed to offer vegan & cruelty free products using natural active ingredients. Bringing the benefits of nature in people’s busy lives and giving them visible results through innovative products, Sensori+ is also dedicated to contribute to the long-term solution on climate change by using sustainably sourced ingredients and packaging.

StockistS sensoriplus.com DAVID JONES / ADORE BEAUTY / AMAZON

Natural origin ingredient s

Sulfates & Parabens free

Sustainably sourced

Recyclable Packaging

5 minutes with...

The Veronicas Don’t do business with family and friends is the old saying, but in the world of beauty and cosmetics, luckily, I have never found this to be true.

Succession and wealth can, and should, be shared and celebrated in family businesses – especially when you’re identical twin sisters!

Nicci Herrera catches up with Lisa and Jessica Origliasso, aka The Veronicas, who have launched their fragrance, Untouched, through Chemist Warehouse to find out their top tips for working with your loved ones.

22| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

“We actually created the bottle first!

We wanted something that represented love, strength, and vulnerability. Then we made a list of all our favourite scents through our life, and realised we are drawn to anything with a base of amber.

So, we started there, and experimented with different combinations. We spent six months perfecting the blend to create something we haven’t felt like we’ve ever found before.”

WHAT DID YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT CREATING A FRAGRANCE? “We are so familiar with creating sound and visual media for people, that creating a scent gave us an entirely new sense stimulation to play with. Scent is a whole new world of creative and powerful exploration. Scent has the ability to evoke the part of the brain that accesses memories. We think that is so beautiful.”

OUT OF ALL OF YOUR RELEASED SONGS, WHY DID YOU CHOOSE UNTOUCHED? AND HOW DID YOU BOTTLE THE MEANING OF THE SONG? “Untouched was artistically the biggest risk we have ever taken in our song writing. We were entirely immersed in creative freedom and felt we had created something that felt so new for that time. We felt the same way when we created this scent. It was made from that place of complete freedom. So, we decided to honour our song Untouched with a scent that smells the way the song makes us feel.”

WHAT IS THE BEST PART OF BEING IN BUSINESS WITH YOUR SISTER? “You always have someone you can trust to soundboard every idea! Also, we appreciate having someone who you can be 100 per cent honest with. There is a lot of fun, but also a lot of fakery in entertainment.

It’s cathartic to always have someone who knows the difference and has your back.”

WHAT LESSONS DID YOU LEARN EARLY ON, AND ALSO RECENTLY? “Early on we learnt that having a great team is integral to success. Lessons we have learned more recently have been that you do it for the music, but you will come out of it with a life degree in business.

And often it requires even more time and management than anything else.”

YOUR FIVE TOP TIPS TO WORKING WITH LOVED ONES? 1. Make sure you know when business time is, when creative time is, and when personal time is.

2. Boundaries are crucial to a healthy working relationship.

3. Always listen to each other.

4. Take holidays together for fun, outside of business trips.

5. Always be transparent with business spending.

5 MINUTES WITH

SMELLS CAN EVOKE STRONG EMOTIONAL REACTIONS, JUST AS LYRICS CAN. TALK US THROUGH THE PROCESS WHEN CREATING YOUR FIRST FRAGRANCE?

WHAT IS NEXT FOR THE VERONICAS? “We have a new album, moving deeper into the world of beauty and creative development, and we might have an announcement in the world of fashion really soon.”

Scent is a whole new world of creative and powerful exploration.

HOW AND WHEN DID YOU KNOW THAT A SINGING CAREER WAS WHAT YOU BOTH WANTED? “It was never really a question. We really saw ourselves as songwriters first. But we always loved singing together. We started at the age of five, and only fell more and more in love with music.”

HOW DO YOU KEEP EACH OTHER MOTIVATED? “We focus on what inspires us in new ways.

We immerse ourselves in documentaries, music, live shows, fashion, health, beauty anything where people are taking risks.”

THE VERONICAS UNTOUCHED EAU DE PARFUM Key ingredients – Waterlily, Marshmallow Musk, Amber Crystals Top notes – Apple Leaf, Waterlily, Aloe Nectar Mid notes – Jasmine Petals, Pink Freesia, Plumeria Dry notes – Marshmallow Musks, Amber Crystals, Sandalwood

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |23

Liar

W R I N K L E C H E AT E R

TM

WANT T O KNOW MORE? Contact : vanessa@liarwrinklecheater.com

Beauty & the Best TALKING RETAIL BEAUTY WITH NICCI HERRERA

26| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

PODCAST

BEAUTY & THE BEST Australia’s first retail beauty business podcast.

Hosted by Nicci Herrera.

Michael Marzano

Terry Hawkins

Nicci Herrera has spent 25 years in the beauty industry. From stints as ‘the girl on the shop floor’ to working in beauty salons, Nicci has done it all – she even launched the first beauty subscription box, Lust Have It, in Australia back in 2010.

Now publisher of esprit Magazine, Nicci’s true passion is helping businesses to grow and offer an extensive range of retail beauty solutions to those in the industry.

And what better way to do it than by engaging in spirited, meaningful conversations with the who’s who of beauty retail industry?

BEAUTY AND THE BEST KICKS OFF WITH: • M ichael Marzano, national education manager at Agence de Parfum, who talks

Bahar Etminan

Michael Bunker

about the impact of COVID-19 and selling fragrance online.

• Bahar Etminan, sales and marketing expert, digital pioneer, consultant, author and founder of rescu.com.au, talks about how COVID-19 has been a leveller to those in the beauty industry.

• Terry Hawkins, author, mother, educator, transformational speaker and owner of People in Progress, shares her top tips on motivating staff.

• Michael Bunker, head of digital events at Redback Connect, shares his secrets to creating an engaging webinar.

Two new Beauty & the Best podcasts will be released every month on Apple and Spotify. Don’t forget to subscribe for content, insights, tips and tricks to help you grow your business.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |27

PHARMACY NEWS

Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award nominations open Are you an outstanding pharmacy assistant? If not, can you think of a colleague, friend, family member, or community member who is?

Now is the time to jump online and nominate them for the 2020 Pharmacy Guild of Australia /Maxigesic Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award (PATY).

This year, due to COVID-19, the annual Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award will move entirely online for the first time in the event’s 14-year history, and has been dubbed Virtual PATY. The Pharmacy Guild of Australia national president, George Tambassis, said that now, more than ever, we needed to recognise and celebrate our top achievers in pharmacy.

“PATY is the premier award for approximately 35,000 pharmacy assistants nationally,” he said.

“It provides a public platform to recognise the high value pharmacy assistants contribute to their pharmacies, the community and the industry.”

Mr Tambassis said the coronavirus pandemic “won’t stop us from acknowledging and celebrating the great work that pharmacy assistants do for the community on a daily basis”.

“This year we had to be a little more innovative and bring the award fully online.”

Nominees will be able to submit a video as part of the nomination process, which will be run through the Pharmacy Guild Queensland Branch’s new Cloud Assess LMS platform.

“The 2020 selection criteria has been amended so nominees can include examples of their frontlineleadership and skills developed during the coronavirus pandemic,” he said.

“State workshops and the national judging workshop will be conducted via Zoom, with successfulnominees enjoying catering via an online meal delivery service.”

The 2019 Pharmacy Assistant of the Year winner

Brianne Lowe, from HealthSAVE Pharmacy in Charlestown, said taking out the title last year was a dream come true and she encouraged people to start nominating.

“Winning the award has turned out to be one of biggest achievements in life and it all came so naturally,” she said.

“I’m very grateful to the 2019 PATY finalists for supporting and encouraging me the whole way through – if it weren’t for them I wouldn’t be where I am today.”

Brianne said since her win, she had been given many fantastic industry opportunities.

“I have been invited to be a part of so many wonderful things – APP, writing articles, podcasts and many more things yet to come,” she said.

“It is also an amazing feeling to have people come to me and ask my advice on how to do things in their pharmacy.”

The virtual Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award is now open to all Australian pharmacy assistants with a minimum of two years’ industry experience.

Nominees can either self-nominate or be nominated by a third party.

Several great prizes are available, including a $5,000 cash prize and GuildTraining course for the National Winner.

More information is available at http://pharmacyassistants. com/paty

Surge in online pharmacy orders Australia Post has been experiencing the sort of delivery volumes usually associated with the festive season.

The sectors seeing a huge upsurge in online orders include department stores, pharmacy and athleisure wear, as Australians ramp up their exercise routines during social distancing restrictions.

Australia Post staff are working overtime, as volumes in its national delivery business have grown by up to 50 per cent since mid-March.

Pharmacy item orders have increased 284 per cent, department store orders are up 184 per cent and athleisure wear ordering has surged 28 per cent, says Australia Post.

The nation’s postal service has also inaugurated a Pharmacy Home Delivery Service, which helps to meet the needs of vulnerable members of the community and ensures they receive medical and other essential supplies.

For more information, visit the Department of Health home page for eligibility requirements and conditions.

28| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

PHARMACY NEWS How Priceline held its market share in health and beauty in first half Pharmacies remained open as essential businesses, but being prepared also helped Priceline negotiate the coronavirus crisis in good shape.

The company had already moved more towards health and value before the COVID-19 restrictions.

API, its parent company, has posted total revenues of $2 billion for the first half of FY2020 – up 2.8 per cent on the same period last year.

Priceline’s Sister Club has long been one of Australia’s leading loyalty programs.

Membership grew 7.3 per cent in the first half of the fiscal year to 8.9 million members.

Basket size also increased 5.6 per cent for Sister Club members over the period.

The introduction of click-and-collect and click-and-deliver in late 2019 has

paid off handsomely for Priceline.

Both services have enjoyed significant upticks during the coronavirus outbreak.

According to Richard Vincent, CEO of API: “Our positioning though a change of product mix, service focus and targeted offers meant we were able to hold market share across the health, personal care and beauty segments.”

Walgreens Boots Alliance Q2 sales exceed predictions Walgreens Boots Alliance, a global leader in retail and wholesale pharmacy, personal care and health, has reported second quarter sales of US$35.28 billion – a rise of 3.7 per cent over the same period in 2019.

Q2 ended on February 29th, prior to the number of COVID-19 cases escalating in the US and Europe and the accompanying changes in consumer purchasing behaviour.

Retail pharmacy sales in the US reported Q2 sales of US$27.2 billion – an increase of 3.8 per cent over the same period a year earlier.

The personal care and health titan has also entered a new agreement with food delivery service Postmates in the US, expanding its on-demand delivery service across the US to 47 states.

Walgreens Boots Alliance will deliver over-the-counter medicines, household essentials, personal care and convenience products to consumers.

Walgreens has been re-focusing on beauty for the past few years.

Last year, it introduced more premium, indie and DTC brands and 3500 beauty consultants across 3000 of its stores in the US. The giant also entered a partnership with Birchbox, the beauty subscription company.

Black Friday produced blockbuster results in the US for Walgreens with sales up 45 percent, fuelled by leading skincare brands such as its private label No 7 brand, the number one skincare range in the UK.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |29

INDUSTRY NEWS

New executive appointments at Estée Lauder Two new major appointments were announced at The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC).

Jane Lauder has been appointed to the new role of executive vice president, enterprise marketing and chief data officer.

Jane reports directly to Fabrizio Freda, president and CEO, who said her “unique combination of understanding high-touch consumer experiences, and data analytics and insights, will further strengthen our innovative product offerings and experiences for our consumers globally”.

“We are focused on delivering the very best, high-quality products that leverage consumer insights from our enhanced data analytics, and I am confident that Jane is the right person to lead this important area of the business,” he said.

With more than two decades of beauty industry experience, including more than 23 years at ELC, Jane was led the transformation of brand strategy, distribution, product innovation and consumer reach as global brand president of Clinique.

Jane has been succeeded at Clinique by Michelle Freyre,

First Kiwi skincare brand enters Mecca stores Skincare brands from New Zealand have long punched above their weight.

Trilogy was first launched across the Tasman before becoming an Australasian-identified brand.

Last year, McPherson’s, Australia’s number one supplier in pharmacy, invested in Kotia, a world-first skincare range based on deer milk from the South Island. The brand initially launched in Priceline’s top 350 doors last May. Syrene is a luxury national skincare brand and has a 12-strong store network in New Zealand. The company was founded in 2016 by Karen Yang and Jo Gilberd.

Yang previously worked in a health supplements company, specialising in manuka honey products for export to Asia.

Gilberd is a skincare developer, whose international client list includes Marks & Spencer and The Body Shop.

Syrene’s hero ingredients include seaweed, manuka honey, pohutukawa (an evergreen of the myrtle family) and kawakawa extract used in traditional Maori herbal medicine.

Packaging is manufactured from recycled plastic from ocean waste.

In addition to China, Japan and South Korea, Syrene is also looking to enter the UK and German markets.

Following a year of negotiations, the brand’s products launched online in Mecca recently.

From August, they will also be available in Mecca stores in New Zealand and Australia as the specialist retailer’s first New Zealand skincare brand.

30| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

who joined the brand as senior vice president, general manager.

Michelle reports to John Demsey, executive group president, ELC, who said he was “thrilled to welcome her to the brand” as she was a “wonderful fit for Clinique”.

“Michelle is a dynamic leader with deep experience across beauty, including marketing, innovation, sales, consumer engagement and strategic growth,” said Mr Demsey.

“She is particularly adept at finding new and innovative ways to fuel growth by exceeding consumer expectations and pushing the boundaries of possibility.”

Michelle was previously at Johnson & Johnson, where she had an impressive 20-year career holding various leadership roles within its Consumer Health Products division, most recently serving as president, US Beauty.

In this role, she was responsible for the company’s portfolio of beauty brands at the time including Neutrogena, Aveeno, Clean & Clear and RoC. Both roles were effective as of July 1, 2020.

esprit Magazine promotion

MOISTURISE AND PROTECT Supercharging spring skin with YOUR LIPS WITH

Burt’s Bees

®

is the time to so update beauty regime. regime It’s to help protect AsNow the seasons change, shouldyour our skincare an opportunity your skin against the elements.

Add on extra moisturising for you to deepen your customer relationships. Burt’s Bees®’ new layers with Burt’s Bees all-natural lip care, providing hydration, launches are designed for an effortless transition to healthy, protection and nourishment for all seasons. replenished and supercharged spring skin.

Burt’s Bees ® new products are available now at selected retailers.

Achieve glowing, fresh skin this spring with the NEW all-natural skin and lip products from Burt’s Bees®.

Burt’s Bees is available at Burt’s Bee W and independent s UltBig ra-Cpharmacies onditionin g

Moisturisin g Lip Balm RRP $6.99 availa ble now a t selected re tailers.

HERE ARE OUR 3 TIPS FOR KEEPING LIPS SMOOTH AND CONDITIONED:

1

Nourish Your Lips with Natural Butters

Natural butters, like Cocoa Butter or Shea Butter, are most often central ingredients in beauty products, due to their richly moisturising benefits and antioxidant properties, containing vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids.

These propertiesTONING ensure they ROSE MICELLAR WATER TOWELETTES help contain&the skin’s natural moisture and create a barrier to protect Gently wipe away makeup whilethe deeply skin from dehydration. cleansing and hydrating the skin with Burt’s Bees Bees utilises NEW Rose 3-In-1 Micellar Burt’s a powerful Toning Water and Micellar Cleansing trifecta of Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter Towelettes.

Infused with natural and Kokum Butter in its 100% Natural ingredients like responsibly sourcedLip Rose Ultra-Conditioning Moisturising Water, the multitasking cleansers use Balm. Shea Butter is a key treatment micellarfor technology to dry trapskin, and lift option those with dueaway to dirt, oil and other impurities for a fresh its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant ®

and clean complexion.

RRP Rose Water $12.99 RRP Facial Towelettes $9.99

3

Avoid Picking at Cracks, or Peeling Dry and Flaky Spots

properties. In combination with the detoxifying benefits of naturally healing Cocoa Butter and the deep moisture coming from Kokum Butter, Burt’s Bees Ultra Conditioning Lip Balm enables maximum effectiveness in overcoming dryness.

2

While tempting, it’s important not to pick at your lips – even if there are dry or flaky spots. This will only create more cracks and sores to form. Avoid picking and instead apply Burt’s Bees UltraConditioning Lip Balm liberally to help hydrate and heal them.

LIQUID FACEMASKS

WATERMELON MOISTURISING

Smart Application LIP BALM

Whilst it remains important to

A deeply hydrating, fresh and protective apply lip balm frequently during the lip balm packed with moisturising day, remembering to apply beforebenefits bed at ® for lips.

Burt’s Bees Lipair night is essential.

We’ Watermelon often leave the Balm has a sweet, refreshingleaving flavour us that conditioning on overnight, celebrates glorious sunny afternoons exposed for extended periods of timeand to freshly sliced,air. perfectly ripe watermelon. dry, artificial Remember to apply a RRPof$6.99 layer the Ultra-Conditioning Balm as a

critical protective barrier against dryness and cracking.

To find out more and to enquire about

Restore rebalance skinwith withBurt’s Burt’sBees Give lipsand some extra love ® Bees ’ new facial liquid masks.

Grounded Ultra-Conditioning Moisturising Lip in nature’s proven to revitalise and Balm.

Infused withability Kokum, Shea and protect, the 99% natural formulas are Cocoa Butter, the 100% natural formula madetowith a blend of thechapped most purifying helps rejuvenate dry, lips, and nourishing superfood ingredients ensuring they remain healthy and includingall Charcoal, Acai, Kakadu Plum, hydrated year long.

Conveniently Beetroot and Avocado. packaged in an easily portable, tint-free RRP:Burt’s $22.99 tube, Bees ensures nourishing lip protection is never far away.

Burt’s Bees® has been offering distinctive earth-friendly, 99% natural health and beauty care products for 30 years. From a beekeeper’s backyard in Maine to the leading edge of natural, Burt’s Bees knows natural body care solutions from head-to-toe and operates with The Greater Good top of mind.

No parabens, phthalates, or SLS and representative no animal testing. or visit: becoming a stockist contactpetrolatum your local brand

www.burtsbees.com.au

#burtsbeesaus

@burtsbeesaus.

To find out more and to enquire about becoming a stockist contact your local brand representative or visit: www.burtsbees.com.au #burtsbeesaus @burtsbeesaus.

INDUSTRY NEWS

Hair removal market to reach US$3.2 billion Supermarkets, drugstores and pharmacies dominate the global hair removal market, says Grand View Research, whose database is used by Fortune 500 companies and some of the world’s top educational institutions.

Increasing awareness about

personal grooming and rising spending on hygiene, in addition to aesthetic appeal, are expected to drive the sector to worldwide sales of US$3.2 billion over the next five years, predicts the data tracker.

Overall growth of 5.5 per cent through to 2025 will be outpaced by electronic devices. Epilators are popular with men

and women, says Grand View Research, because they are quick and easy to use.

Key players such as Emjoi, sold in leading retailers such as Harvey Norman and The Good Guys, are offering personalised products for men such as the Emagine Epilator.

A similar strategy to the leading razor makers, Gillette and Schick.

Women still rule the roost in the hair removal sector and the increasing number or working women in emerging economies is a major driver of global sales.

Leading brands such as Veet have also diversified into hair removal products for dry and sensitive skin.

North America remains the largest regional market with a 30.8 per cent market share.

But the Asia/Pacific region has the fastest growth rate, says Grand View Research.

Online sales are on track to spike by 6 per cent to 2025, adds the researcher, as the use of smartphones and multi-channel retailing continues to grow strongly.

L’Oréal acquires Thayers Natural Remedies L’Oréal has enjoyed explosive success following the acquisitions of US natural beauty brands.

Nineteen years ago, the world’s largest beauty company bought Kiehl’s, the New York apothecary brand founded in 1851.

In 2000, Kiehl’s had one store in the US. Over the next 16 years, the brand expanded to 61 countries, including Australia, and reached the US$1 billion annual sales milestone.

Over the past three years, further expansion in key markets in the Middle East and South America has cemented Kiehl’s status as one of L’Oréal’s fastestgrowing brands.

L’Oréal made another strategic US acquisition in 2017 with the buyout of the AcneFree, Ambi and CeraVe brands from Valeant for a cash payment of US$1.3 billion. CeraVe was successfully launched in Australian pharmacy in 2019.

Thayers Natural Remedies, another “love” brand like Kiehl’s, has been acquired by L’Oréal for an undisclosed sum. Founded in 1847 by Dr Henry Thayer, the company specialises in natural 32| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

skincare and recorded sales of US$44 million in 2019.

Thayers is best known for its iconic Witch Hazel Aloe Vera Formula Facial Toner, which is available on leading online sites such as Amazon in Australia.

Originally sold in health-oriented grocery stores, the brand has extended distribution to mass and beauty retailers, drugstores and e-commerce. For this reason, it will

be integrated into L’Oréal’s Consumer Products Division, alongside Garnier, Maybelline New York and L’Oréal Paris.

According to Alexis Perakis-Valat, President, Consumer Products Division at L’Oréal: “This acquisition is part of our strategy to develop our skincare business all around the world and complements perfectly our North American skincare brand portfolio.”

esprit Magazine promotion

Palette Refresher: Supercharging with Add a pop ofspring colourskin with

Burt’s Bees

®

your natural colouring Burt’s Bees It’s lip an shimmers As theBoost seasons change, so should our with skincare regime. opportunity and shines, for a glowing lip look this Bees®’ Spring.new for you to deepen your customer relationships.

Burt’s launches are designed for an effortless transition to healthy, replenished and supercharged spring skin.

Burt’s Bees offers a rich pop of colour as well as deep rejuvenation Burt’sand Bees ® moisturisation derived from all-natural ingredients with its unique lip range.are new products

Achieve glowing, fresh skin this spring with the NEW all-natural skin and lip products from Burt’s Bees®.

available now at selected retailers.

Burt’s Bees is available at Big W and independent pharmacies

Choose your favourite shade from Burt’s Bees range of glossy Lip Shimmers and Lip Shines.

Available now at selected retailers.

LIP SHINES

Burt’s Bees Lip Shines are the ultimate trifecta, offering brilliant endless hydration, ROSEshine, MICELLAR TONING WATER & TOWELETTES and a sheer wash of colour.

Withwipe a 100% natural formula, Gently away makeup while deeply the Lip Shines use nourishing cleansing and hydrating the skin with Burt’s Bees® NEW Rose 3-In-1 Micellar ingredients like Apricot Wax Toning Water and Micellar Cleansing and Sunflower Seed Oil to Towelettes. Infused with natural deliver a light, sweet scent, and ingredients like responsibly sourced Rose mineral-rich color.

Available Water, the multitasking cleansers use in 8 shades, the moisturising, micellar technology to trap and lift away dirt, oil and other impuritiesgreat for a fresh glossy texture looks alone and clean complexion. or layered over your favourite RRP Rose Water $12.99 product for added impact.

RRP Facial Towelettes $9.99 Lip Shines RRP: $11.95

LIP SHIMMERS

Give your lips a kiss of colour with Burt’s Bees 100% Natural Lip Shimmers. Available in 11 WATERMELON MOISTURISING LIQUID FACEMASKS shades, Shimmers help to Restore and rebalance skin with Burt’s LIPthe BALM moisturise, and soften Bees®’ new facial liquid masks. Grounded A deeply hydrating, freshnourish and protective lips using the antioxidant-rich lip balm packed with moisturising benefits in nature’s proven ability to revitalise and for lips. Burt’s Bees®’ E Watermelon Lip Vitamin and hydrating ben- protect, the 99% natural formulas are Balm has aefits sweet, flavour ofrefreshing Beeswax.

Withthata hint made with a blend of the most purifying and nourishing superfood ingredients celebrates glorious sunny afternoons and of peppermint oil, your lips including Charcoal, Acai, Kakadu Plum, freshly sliced, perfectly ripe watermelon. feel refreshed and rejuvenated, Beetroot and Avocado.

RRP $6.99 whilst a pop of glossy colour RRP: $22.99 offers a fun and vibrant finish.

Lip Shimmers RRP: $9.95 Burt’s Bees has been offering distinctive earth-friendly, 99% natural health ®

and beauty care products for 30 years. From a beekeeper’s backyard in Maine to the leading edge of natural, Burt’s Bees knows natural body care solutions from head-to-toe and operates with The Greater Good top of mind.

No parabens, phthalates, petrolatum or SLS and no animal testing.

To find out more and to enquire about becoming a stockist contact your local brand representative or visit: To find out more and to enquire about becoming a stockist contact your local brand representative or visit: www.burtsbees.com.au #burtsbeesaus @burtsbeesaus. www.burtsbees.com.au #burtsbeesaus @burtsbeesaus.

INDUSTRY NEWS

Hairhouse’s on-demand delivery with DoorDash

Australian omni-channel hair authority, Hairhouse, has partnered with DoorDash, as the first non-food retailer in Australia to offer express store-to-door delivery service.

Initially available in New South Wales and Victoria, with scope to expand nationally, the partnership provides cautious customers with an alternative to visiting a beauty salon or Hairhouse store with same-day access to an extensive range of hair, grooming and beauty products.

Customers simply place an order online, select DoorDash Express Store-To-Door Delivery at checkout and have the order delivered to their door within two hours if the order is placed before 3pm.

When an order is received, the store

is notified and will pack the order. The delivery driver will pick up the order from the chosen store and deliver it.

The same-day delivery is available for a flat fee of $7.99 within 5km and $1 for every additional 1km (up to 10km).

The top 5 areas beauty advisors MUST focus on There’s nothing like a crisis to fuel wild predictions.

The number of commentators and articles declaring that things have “changed forever” has been a hallmark of the COVID-19 pandemic.

But most people want to return to normalcy, reveals Red Ant, the digital store platform used by leading retailers and lifestyle brands worldwide.

34| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

The global company surveyed consumers aged 21 to 50 in Australia, the US, the UK and the Middle East as part of its Safe Retail initiative.

More than 75 per cent of respondents agreed that buying beauty products relies on personal, one-to-one relationships.

The top five areas for beauty advisors to focus on are:

1. Product knowledge 2. Online beauty advice 3. Colour matching and recommendations 4. Relevant products for individual skin types 5. Tips and tutorials.

Other key findings revealed that 42 per cent of respondents buy their beauty products in bricks- and-mortar stores and 46 per cent use both in-store and online channels.

Only 12 per cent of those surveyed said they bought beauty products exclusively online.

More than 70 per cent said they would not change their beautypurchasing habits post-pandemic.

Worried about the new safety regulations and lack of testers in department stores and beauty retailers?

More than 82 per cent of survey respondents said they would buy new products without sampling them instore first.

Many retailers are still doing it tough.

But with the gradual easing of lockdown restrictions, certain sectors have rebounded strongly.

Retail sales slumped 17.7 per cent in

INDUSTRY NEWS

Australian and US retail sales rebound strongly April, reports the Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS).

But pent-up demand resulted in a lift of 16.3 per cent in retail turnover in May to $28.8 billion – up just over $4 billion.

The largest seasonally adjusted upswing in sales in 38 years.

There was a strong uptick in the household goods and homewares category – up 30 per cent.

Clothing, footwear and accessories posted a 100 per cent rise in revenues.

With more people out and about, cafes and restaurants experienced sales growth of 30 per cent.

US retailers also enjoyed a record bounceback in May, following steep slumps in the previous two months – down 8.7 per cent in March and 16.4 per cent in April.

Department stores were big winners in the US – up 36.9 per cent – to help drive overall retail sales growth to 17.7 per cent.

Online sales also rose 9 per cent and major big box retailers such as Walmart and Target experienced a sales rise of 6 per cent.

US-based merchant bank, BDT Capital Partners, acted as financial adviser on the deal and will also become a minority stakeholder.

The Charlotte Tilbury brand was founded seven years ago, and its namesake creator is one of the most

famous makeup artists in the world.

The brand is available through its website and entered global travel retail just over a year ago.

Chinese sales have soared in recent years and the brand has a significant fan base in the Middle East.

Puig acquires majority stake in Charlotte Tilbury brand Puig is the sixth largest company in the global fragrance market.

Key brands in the Barcelona-based company’s stable include Paco Rabanne, Jean Paul Gaultier, Carolina Herrera and Nina Ricci.

The 105-year-old stalwart also owns two of the leading names in niche perfumery – Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur.

But the family-owned business has suffered setbacks over the past two years, losing the lucrative Valentino and Prada fragrance licenses to L’Oréal.

Both departures made it more difficult for Puig to reach its 3 billion euro (US$3.38 billion) target in annual sales by 2025.

In an effort to fill the gaps, Puig has acquired a majority stake in the Charlotte Tilbury cosmetics brand.

Founder Tilbury will retain a minority stake and continue in her roles as chairperson, president and creative officer.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |35

INDUSTRY NEWS

Coty appoints first female CEO

There has been a bit of a revolving door situation in the C-Suite at Coty over the past couple of years, following the departures of Camillo Pane and Pierre Laubies.

In May, the multinational, which is the third largest beauty company in the world, sold off a majority stake in its Professional Beauty division to KKR, the global private equity giant, for US$4.3 billion.

The company’s goal going forward is to intensify its focus on fragrance, skincare and makeup.

Coty have certainly found the one of the best candidates for the job as its new CEO. Sue Youcef Nabi is a 20-year veteran of L’Oréal, serving as worldwide president for both L’Oréal and Lancôme. Her track record with the world’s largest beauty player is phenomenal.

Nabi oversaw the launch of La Vie Est

Belle, currently the number two best-selling prestige fragrance in the world.

She also masterminded the debut of Dream Tone, the first pigment corrector for all skin tones in 2013, long before diversity in beauty became top-of-mind for the industry.

Other highlights include presiding over L’Oréal’s green chemistry program launches such as the anti-ageing active, Proxylane, and changing its iconic slogan from ‘Because I’m worth it’ to the more inclusive – ‘Because we’re worth it’.

She also prioritised the use of older celebrities such as Jane Fonda in key advertising campaigns.

After leaving L’Oréal, the 52-year-old, Algerian-born entrepreneur also founded Orveda, the naturally-based

premium luxury skincare brand, in 2017.

Peter Harf, Coty’s current CEO, will move up to the position of executive chairman in September and Nabi will assume the key position.

Sue is renowned as a visionary and on-going gamechanger, whose outstanding creativity is celebrated in the beauty industry, said Harf.

“I am proud that she now wants to bring her unique sense of inspiration to Coty.”

The Hut Group’s global sales reach $2bn A spree of high-profile buyouts has made The Hut Group (THG) the largest online retailer of premium beauty products in Europe.

Over the past three years, UKbased THG has acquired RY.com. au, Australia’s largest haircare and skincare online store, Christophe Robin, the luxury French haircare brand, Illamasqua, the London-based cosmetics brand, ESPA, the prestige natural skincare company and Eyeko, the eye makeup specialist.

The company has reported full year 2019 sales of pounds 1.14 billion (AUD$2.08 billion). Close to half of all sales – 46 per cent – came from THG’s beauty division and 66 per cent of total revenues were international.

36| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

Just over a third of sales – 34 per cent- were centred on the UK. The second largest market was Europe (26%), followed by Asia/Pacific (24%) and North America (16%).

According to THG, Lookfantastic, which launched in Australia in

October 2018, was one of its bestperforming brands. Wellness sales were also a major highlight, delivering 36 per cent of revenues.

Gross profits also surged 20 per cent to AUD$937 million.

Our companies share the belief that nothing is more important than health, and everything we do is focused on that belief.

Nestle acquires majority stake in Vital Proteins Sales of collagen supplements are booming worldwide.

According to Grand View Research, the US data tracker, global sales are expected to reach US$7.5 billion (AUD$10.98 billion) by 2027.

Nestle is no stranger to beauty-related nutritional supplements.

The Swiss giant owns 23 per cent of L’Oréal – a stake worth US$25 billion.

The two companies created a joint venture called Inneov in 2002 to retail concentrated nutritional supplements through pharmacies.

But the brand’s annual sales were peanuts – 52 million euros (AUD$85.7

million) – for the multi-billion-dollar titans and the company was shuttered in 2014.

Nestle Health Science (NHSc) is getting back into the inner beauty game with the acquisition of a majority stake in Vital Proteins, a US-based collagen company selling supplements, drinks and food products.

Vital Proteins makes 150 SKUs and they are available in 35,000 doors in North America and Europe, including Costco, Wholefoods, Target and Walgreens.

The company will operate as a standalone business but will be able to access Nestle’s enormous resources

and expertise to ramp up its wellness credentials.

The deal is Nestle’s first acquisition in the collagen category.

This is an exciting opportunity for Nestle Health Science to enter a growing area of nutrition with a successful brand, notes Greg Behar, CEO of NHSc. “Our companies share the belief that nothing is more important than health, and everything we do is focused on that belief. In combining our efforts to optimise health through nutrition, we can achieve even more to help our consumers live fuller, more vibrant lives.”

Kim Kardashian West signs $200m beauty deal with Coty There’s nothing like a bit of sibling rivalry, especially when it comes to the Kardashians.

Kim Kardashian West, 39, has officially overtaken the wealth of her younger sister Kylie Jenner, 22, after a deal with Coty was announced.

Under the terms of the agreement, Coty will acquire a 20% ownership interest in Kardashian West’s beauty business, KKW Beauty, for $200 million.

This values the brand at around $1 billion, making Kardashian West worth about $900 million, according to Forbes’ estimates.

Coty will have overall responsibility for the portfolio’s development in skincare, haircare, personal care and nail products.

In a statement release by the company,

Kim commented: “Partnering with an established organisation like Coty will be instrumental in the advancement of my brands as their global reach allows for faster expansion so people around the world are able to experience new launches

first hand. This relationship will allow me to focus on the creative elements that I’m so passionate about while benefiting from the incredible resources of Coty, and launching my products around the world.”

In January, Coty acquired a 51% stake in Kardashian West’s half-sister Kylie Jenner’s brands for $600 million.

Peter Harf, Coty chairman and chief executive officer, added, “Kim is a true modern day global icon. She is a visionary, an entrepreneur, a mother, a philanthropist, and through social media has an unparalleled ability to connect with people around the world. This influence, combined with Coty’s leadership and deep expertise in prestige beauty will allow us to achieve the full potential of her brands.”

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |37

The one Instagram account we couldn’t get enough of during lockdown While almost everybody was in lockdown to help prevent the spread of COVID-19, people found numerous ways to keep themselves – and their social media followers including the team at esprit entertained. Michelle Ruzzene caught up with Sarah Laidlaw, the hair director for Laud Magazine and the hair and makeup director for Priceline, to find out how she created her stunning editorial images shared on her Instagram without access to a model, photographer or stylist while in isolation.

HOW DID YOU COPE DURING LOCKDOWN? “For the first five weeks I was unpacking boxes after moving house, gardening, cooking and just relaxing. Being in isolation is all for the greater good, so I have absolutely nothing to complain about. I remember at the very beginning of it all, someone wrote somewhere: ‘You’re upset about having to stay home? Anne Frank lived in a cupboard for two years. Get over yourself.’ It’s so true. We’re so lucky. We have food, internet and phones - we’re just fine! My favourite meme from this period of time: ‘What a glorious time to be childless’. Having no children definitely helped with my level of coping.

38| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

TELL US ABOUT YOUR EDITORIAL LOOKS? “At around the 40 day mark, I just really missed being creative. My favourite part of my job is the high fashion editorial images the kind of looks that are pretty much over the top and largely unwearable in real life.

Without access to a model, photographer or stylist it just wasn’t an outlet that was going to happen in the usual way. I was lying awake all night with ideas bouncing around in my head, so I just started by doing one look on myself and thought it would be fun to document it. I honestly didn’t think it would work.”

WHAT IS THE PROCESS BEHIND CREATING THESE STUNNING LOOKS? “The process is kind of random. I start with a dress and build the look from there - hair, makeup, accessories. It takes a while as I’m only using things I already have at home to make it more challenging. Sometimes the original idea goes out the window if I don’t have enough bits and pieces to make it work. I’ve loved building the headpieces out of random things. It’s been a really good creative beauty challenge to turn myself into another person. I’m using a few theatre

All images www.instagram.com/ sarahlaidlaw

and drag techniques to reshape my face so I hopefully look unrecognisable. It’s turned out to be a bit of an ongoing creative expression project and has absolutely kept me smiling and sane.”

WHAT IS THE MOST REWARDING PART OF YOUR LATEST PROJECT? “It’s been so good creating for no reason other than fun. There is no client, no art director and no time or budget restrictions. I can decide to do a look if I feel like it - or lie on the couch all day if I don’t feel like it. I’m loving being able to use the skills I usually use on set on myself, it really shows how much hair, makeup and good lighting can do. I can guarantee that my face does NOT look like that in real life. The other lovely and very rewarding outcome of it is all the beautiful messages I’m getting on Instagram - everything from mums at home saying that it’s the one thing they’re getting joy from, to hair and makeup artists saying that they look forward to seeing the next look because it’s keeping them feeling positive and inspired.

It’s been a wonderful and unexpected wave of love coming through.”

Find out more about Sarah on page 82 under our Have You Met… section.

INDUSTRY NEWS

Pot luck Trinny Woodall is a true entrepreneur.

After successful stints as a TV stylist, author, fashion designer and general makeover expert, Trinny decided turn her attention to beauty when she couldn’t find makeup that suited her lifestyle. Her brand, Trinny London, is now a cult favourite among beauty editors and women around the globe, mainly due to her stackable beauty pots and her innovative online service, match2me, that helps match the right makeup to the correct skin tones.

Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the savvy businesswoman who took on the beauty world.

WHY DID YOU LAUNCH YOUR OWN MAKEUP LINE? “I felt there was a real gap in the market for something that was very easy to use and would enable any woman to put on makeup that suited her very quickly with a beautiful finish.”

WHAT BUSINESS LESSONS HAVE YOU LEARNT? “I’ve learnt that you get to a stage where you don’t know the most anymore. As the business grows, and you hire people who are more qualified in areas than you are. It is about trusting their knowledge but never letting go of your intuition around the brand. It’s getting that balance.”

HOW ARE YOU A GOOD TEAM LEADER / BOSS LADY? “I think I’m a mix. I am incredibly passionate about anything to do with the business, and I’m very protective over it. I want everyone to be their best and give it their all, so I have high expectations from my team. I can be quite tough and I’m not always the most diplomatic. People in the business who know me well and who have been with me for the longest part of the

journey understand me the best. So, when I am tough, they get it.”

HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH BAD REVIEWS? “I want to DM them directly and say ‘Don’t you get it? It’s so fantastic!’ Every product we launch is done with such care and thought and a reason for being. I find it unsettling when someone goes, ‘I used this, and I don’t see what’s so great about it’. It doesn’t happen often with our brand and it happens the most, when I am doing a film and I speak with such passion and such belief. I think people tend to really take everything I say at its optimum and think that it will do exactly the same for them. People then have an expectation that is so high, that when they get the product and apply it to themselves, they just think they didn’t get the same pay off.”

HOW IS TRINNY LONDON DIFFERENT TO OTHER BRANDS ON THE MARKET? “It has such a big, beating heart. You really feel the pulsing of the brand whenever you come into contact with it on social media.

We are about real women more than any other brand. We use more women in all our photography and films than any other brand.

We have a community of women around the world which no other brand has, such as the Trinny Tribe community. That doesn’t exist in any other brands in our field.”

WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST MAKEUP ‘FAILS’ YOU SEE? “The biggest fail I see is when women use their foundation to make the colour of their skin the colour they want it to be. As soon as

you don’t wear a foundation which matches your skin tone, you see that foundation on your face. I believe that foundation should be invisible, yet cover. When that doesn’t happen is when it’s a wrong shade. You can use blusher and bronzer to feel colour in your face, don’t get your foundation to do it.”

WHAT’S YOUR TOP MAKEUP TIP/TRICK? “That you need so little to go so far. There are certain pots in Trinny London that I’ll take out with me and it’ll just be a few pots.

One might be a base product and the other will be a colour that I put on my eyes, lips and cheeks. I like instant transformation – and when I say instant, I don’t mean the YouTube videos that say, ‘It only took five minutes’, for me, it’s like 30 seconds. We carefully think about those colours, even though they might say lips on them, many of them can go on the eye and cheeks. I love saying to women that you have this one pot, but it does so many things.”

WHERE DO YOU EXPECT THE COMPANY TO BE IN THE NEXT THREE TO FIVE YEARS? “If we look on a scale of 1-100 of how many people have heard of Trinny London - we started in the UK maybe at 3%. They might know me as a person, but I am saying overall as a brand. I would now say we are at about 15% of every woman in England who can buy our makeup (even a bit more). I would like to be at 50% in the UK and at 10% in America. That would be healthy, if within three years, 10% of Americans have heard about the brand.” www.trinnylondon.com ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |39

Homegrown

HEROES Following the COVID-19 pandemic, Australian-made beauty products are having a moment. With a vast array of unique ingredients at our disposal and one of the highest manufacturing standards, it’s time to celebrate our well-earned reputation for producing some of the best beauty products in the world.

01.

07.

04.

08.

03.

09.

06.

02.

05.

40| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

FEATURE 10.

15.

19.

18.

11.

13.

20.

17.

16.

12.

14.

07. Dr Lewinn’s Ultra R4 Collagen Plumping Lip Masks, RRP $14.95 (pack of 3) www.drlewinns.com.au

08. Ella Baché Great Face Tan Without Sun, RRP $40 www.ellabache.com.au 09. Fluff Casual Cosmetics Bronzing Powder, RRP $43 www.itsallfluff.com 10. Georgiemane 10 Minute Hair Mask, RRP $49.99 www.georgiemane.com 11. Jurlique Moisture Plus Rare Rose Serum, RRP $75 www.jurlique.com 12. Li’Tya Eucalyptus Hand Sanitiser, RRP $18.95 www.litya.com 13. Model Co Tan Airbrush In A Can, RRP$25.00 www.modelco.com 14. Napoleon Perdis Auto Pilot Pre-Foundation Skin Primer, RRP $59 www.napoleonperdis.com

01. Alive Fig, Apricot & Sage Hand & Body Lotion, RRP $42 www.alivebody.com.au 02. Alpha H Liquid Gold, RRP $59.95 www.alpha-h.com 03. Bali Body Ultra Dark Self Tanning Mousse, RRP $30.95 www.au.balibodyco.com

04. Biologi Bc Refresh Cleanser, RRP $62 www.ozhairandbeauty.com 05. Bondi Sands Self Tanning Foam in Dark, RRP $19.95 www.bondisands.com.au 06. Bondi Wash Body Wash Tasmanian Pepper & Lavender, RRP $30 www.bondiwash.com.au

15. Pure Paw Paw Ointment in Strawberry, RRP $4.95 www.purepawpawointment.com.au

16. Raww Super-Camo Foundation, RRP $35.99 www.rawwcosmetics.com 17. Salt By Hendrix Rose Coco-Soak, RRP $24.95 www.saltbyhendrix.com.au 18. Sand & Sky Australian Pink Clay Flash Perfection Exfoliator, RRP $59.90 www.au.sandandsky.com

19. The Bronzer Instant Tan, RRP $24.95 www.thebronzer.com.au 20. Ultraceuticals Limited Edition Ultra Moisturiser Cream, RRP $139 www.ultraceuticals.com ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |41

IN & ONLINE

In & Online

With Out and About on hold due to COVID-19 restrictions, Michelle Ruzzene covers the best virtual brand experiences from the comfort of her home.

AVÈNE’S VIRTUAL BRAND IMMERSION

01.

01. Avène head trainer Janis McNicholas.

02. A selection of Avène products.

03. The session was held via Zoom.

03.

Media were sent the Avène A-Oxitive Antioxidant Defense Serum and Smoothing Water-Cream as part of an at-home self-care kit before logging onto a virtual brand immersion via Zoom.

Head trainer Janis McNicholas hosted the session, explaining the importance of protecting skin against oxidative stress Janis said beautiful and healthy skin was clearly threatened by environment factors, including fatigue, stress, blue light from digital screens, pollution and more. Janis said the new range protected the skin from stress, delayed the first signs of ageing and restored a bright complexion.

Janis also highlighted the philanthropic work the company had been involved with, which spanned 32 programs in 17 countries, including the

02.

prevention and treatment of skin cancers among albinos in Mali and Tanzania, mobile medical units for Syrian refugees in Lebanon, creation of the Global South eHealth Observatory, training for pharmacists in Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos and a clinical validation study on rapid screening for sickle cell disease in Mali, the DRC, and Togo.

TWO NEW ARRIVALS TO CERAVE’S SKINCARE LINE-UP CeraVe invited media and influencers to join them online for a livestreamed panel discussion to introduce viewers to its two new facial skincare products that recently launched in the Australian market – Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum and AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF15. Hosted by CeraVe advocate Lauren Phillips, the livestream featured Australian dermatologist Dr Ryan De Cruz and L’Oréal’s scientific communications manager Rachel McAdam. The panel spoke about the products that were formulated with CeraVe’s three essential Ceramides and patented MVE delivery technology, and explained the two new products worked to protect, hydrate and restore the skin’s natural barrier. Dr Ryan De Cruz said the most important ingredients in one’s skin care regimen was sunscreen.

“Without doubt, a broad spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen that protects against

42| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

both UVA and UVB,” he said.

“Ideally this 01. would be a lightweight, noncomedogenic sunscreen lotion that is easy to apply, not too thick nor greasy. After sunscreen, I believe a moisturiser that is suited to an individual’s skin-type is an essential part of one’s daily routine.”

Meanwhile, Rachel spoke in depth about the benefits of 03. hyaluronic acid. “Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring molecule that can hold approximately 1000 times its weight in water,” she said. “It is responsible for giving our skin ‘plumpness’ contributes to skin luminosity. In skincare, hyaluronic acid acts a powerful agent that attracts water into the epidermis, therefore increasing skin hydration and compensating

02.

01. Australian dermatologist Dr Ryan De Cruz.

02. L’Oréal’s scientific communications manager Rachel McAdam.

03. Cerave’s AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF15 and Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum.

for skin water loss.” The two new products are available now at Chemist Warehouse.

Media and influencers were invited to a virtual learning lunch, hosted

by Paula Joye and Neostrata global head of research and development Barbara Green, to discover more about the brand. Ahead of the learning session, lunch was delivered to invitees, courtesy of The Grounds.

Barbara explained Neostrata translated to ‘new’ (Neo) and ‘layers’ (Strata), as the brand’s philosophy was based on the notion that visible results came from renewing layers of the epidermis. The products, Barbara said, were formulated to enhance the skin’s turnover process and work across multiple layers of the epidermis, delivering visible results with clinical proof. She explained the brand’s relaunch included three product ranges - Skin Active, Resurface and Restore and 14 products in total. Speaking exclusively to esprit following the

01.

IN & ONLINE

NEOSTRATA’S VIRTUAL LEARNING LUNCH

04.

02.

presentation, Barbara shared her top four skincare myths when it came to skincare.

Myth 1: AHAs cannot be used everyday. AHAs CAN be used everyday as tolerated – simply adjust to a level that yields comfortable results on skin. Reduce usage if skin feels a bit dry or sensitive and consider alternating with the gentle, conditioning PHAs found in the RESTORE line.

Myth 2: Sunscreens are only needed when outdoor recreation is planned.

I would expect our Australian consumers already know the importance of using sunscreen every day – rain or shine, warm or cold.

Daily incidental sun exposure causes cumulative skin damage. Protect your skincare investment with adequate sun protection each day.

Myth 3: Treating your neck is just like treating the face. The neck requires a special formulation to target multiple signs of ageing (often one or more: crepey texture, laxity, deep lines and dark spots) in a formulation that is gentle enough to be applied every day to skin that is prone to creasing and folding.

03.

01. Neostrata is available at Priceline, Chemist Warehouse and selected pharmacies.

02. Host and media personality Paula Joye.

03. Neostrata global head of research and development Barbara Green.

04. Lunch was delivered courtesy of The Grounds.

Myth 4: Natural products are better for skin. I am a firm believer in the clinically-proven antiaging technologies and formulations in the NEOSTRATA range, and have been using them for over 25 years every day. Careful selection of ingredients to ensure efficacy and safety is critical to our brand.

Natural may feel good, but they’re not always going to deliver the highest order skin benefits. Mix and match to find the right balance for yourself.

ALPHA-H’S VITAMIN WEBINAR EVENT To celebrate the launch of Alpha-H’s new look vitamin serums, media were invited to a morning of bespoke skincare. The online event was hosted by Alpha-H’s professional education manager, LeeAnne Leslie.

LeeAnne spoke about how consumers could amplify and personalise their routine with a daily dose of vitamins including A, B, C and E. She explained the new four essential vitamin serums had been updated, and were now available in pastel colours that were coded to showcase their benefits and make them easily identifiable. She

01.

said each formulation had been paired with complementary ingredients which enhanced their effect and boosted overall results to the skin.

02.

01. Alpha-H’s professional education manager, LeeAnne Leslie.

02. Alpha-H’s new look vitamin serums.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |43

IN & ONLINE

OLAY’S VIRTUAL #RETINOL24 LAUNCH

Olay launched its Regenerist Retinol24 Collection with a choice of three, 60-minute Zoom sessions. Throughout the virtual presentation, Olay ambassador Jesinta Franklin and Olay Skin principal scientist David Khoo shared their secrets to waking up to firmer, plumper looking skin. Prior to the Zoom session, each guest received a delivery containing the full Retinol24 range and a personalised eye mask. Jesinta and David spoke about the range, explaining that the range had already seen huge success in the US, where two jars from the range are sold every minute. Following the session, Michelle Ruzzene caught up with Jesinta and David for a more intimate chat about the range.

JESINTA FRANKLIN Tell us about your skin care routine?

“My skincare routine is very simple. I stick to a couple of products that I know work and don’t over complicate things. I use Olay’s Total Effects Foaming Cleanser and wash my face in the shower, followed by the Luminous Tone Perfecting Serum from Olay, followed by the Regenerist Micro Sculpting Cream Moisturiser for extra hydration. At night I’ve just added in the Night Cream from the Retinol24 range, it brightens, firms and works by providing 24-hour hydration. It won’t dry your skin out and is a light and silky texture.”

Has your skin changed since becoming a mum? If so, how?

“My skin isn’t getting as much love as it used to! With lockdown and being a new mum, I haven’t been able to get a facial either so I am all about at home treatments.

My skin is a little bit more dry and dull at the moment due to the lack of sleep. I am relying a lot on leave on face masks that I can sleep in.”

What are your hero products?

“I love the Luminous Tone Perfecting Serum from Olay, it’s great for radiance and keeping pigmentation at bay! I have also started using the new Olay Retinol24 Night Eye Cream and I can’t go past the Kora Noni body balm. Sometimes the skin on our bodies gets neglected and needs extra care in winter which is why I love this balm, I wake up feeling silky smooth.”

44| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

01. Olay ambassador Jesinta Franklin.

02. Olay Skin principal scientist David Khoo.

03. The new Olay Regenerist Retinol24 Collection.

01.

02.

What is your biggest skin no-no?

“Sleeping in make-up and getting too many facials! Having too many treatments can sometimes irritate your skin.”

Do you influence your husband Buddy’s skincare? How? “Haha, I have caught him using some of my products. But he’s like most men and can get away with not doing much and still look amazing! Lucky thing.”

DAVID KHOO What is Retinol in a nutshell?

“Retinol is a skincare ingredient that comes from Vitamin A. It is widely known and often recommended by dermatologists because of its well-proven, various anti-aging benefits.

However, is just one member of a larger family of ingredients, known as retinoids.”

Who should use retinol? Why? “Retinol24 can be used by women and men of all ages with a range of skin types.

The products are for those looking to begin preventive skincare.”

When is the best time to use retinol?

“Olay Retinol24 is designed to be used at night, however, it is also safe for use during the day if your skin is used to retinol and has developed tolerance for it. As always, we recommend using a UV product for sun protection during daytime, and Olay Regenerist Whips with SPF30 is a great accompaniment.”

Can all skin types use retinol?

Why/why not?

“The Olay Retinol24 range is suitable for most skin types and is designed to minimise irritation by the choice of a gentle retinoid and the use of hydrating and barrier-building ingredients. However, we would recommend consulting a dermatologist before adding retinol to your skincare regimen if you have skin conditions such as eczema.”

03.

What are the biggest myths when it comes to retinol?

“One of the biggest myths is that all products with Retinol are the same, which can lead one to avoid them altogether if you’re worried about the side effects. In fact, the technically accurate term for a member of this family of ingredients is a ‘retinoid’.

There are many kinds of retinoids – retinol is one, but there’s also t-retinoin, retinyl palmitate and so on. We use retinyl propionate as the main retinoid in our products and it’s one of the most stable, least irritating forms of retinoid. It’s a great way to experience the power of a retinoid, especially since we use a proprietary technology that enhances the bioavailability for amazing results without the hassle.”

Can retinol work in conjunction with all other skin products? Why/ why not?

“If this is your first time using retinol, my biggest tip would be to start small by alternating usage of Retinol24 with another robust anti-ageing product for the first few weeks. For example, if you’re using Retinol24 Serum, we recommend pairing this with Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream. If you’re using Retinol24 Night Cream, we recommend pairing this with Olay Luminous Tone Perfecting Essence. Both these products are rich in Niacinamide, which complements and enhances the benefits you would see.

Look forward to smoother skin with less lines and wrinkles, without the side effect of peeling skin.” www.olay.com.au

BUSINESS esprit’s collection of industry experts and leaders share their thoughts on proven tactics and strategies to build your business and career.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |45

3 1

5 4

2

THE MECCA BEAUTY BUYERS

Secret Product Picks

9

6 46| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

7

8

BUSINESS

Mecca offers an exclusive edit of more than 100 cult brands curated from around the globe to beauty junkies across its Mecca Cosmetica, Mecca Maxima and Myer concession outlets. But what products can’t the ultimate influencers – the beauty brand managers – live without? Michelle Ruzzene discovers what could be your next favourite product.

ALICIA SHOOLMAN – SENIOR MAKEUP BRAND MANAGER

1. By Terry Click Expert: This is my go-to everyday foundation and has been for years.

The in-built kabuki brush makes application a breeze, and the formula colour corrects in a flash, dealing with redness, giving a super luminous, flawless skin finish.

2. Hourglass Arch Brow Pencil: A strong brow is a must for me, and this pencil is the top of the class and can’t be beaten. The buildable formula is a clever combination that provides the benefits of pencil, powder and wax, and the built in brush makes it easy to get the look you want – whether it’s super polished or naturally full and fluffy.

3. NARS Blush Amour: This is the perfect peachy pink to pop onto the apples after bronzer and works for both for day night.

Micronised powder makes it super blend-able and foolproof – it is hard to get it wrong with this one!

BIANCA ROBORTACCIO – SENIOR SKINCARE BRAND MANAGER

4. Cosmetics 27 Baume 27 moisturiser: The Baume 27 moisturiser is one of those holy grails, recommend to everyone, makes a difference kinda products you can’t live without. It’s rich, it’s lush and it feels a little like a balm-to-ointment texture, which is just so perfect for drier skin in the winter. Michèle Evrard, founder and creator of this incredible brand, clinically tested this product to do everything that your skin dreams are made of – it repairs the skin with its healing properties and regenerates the skin by stimulating collagen production.

5. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni: If you aren’t already addicted to all things Drunk Elephant, this is a seriously effective product for skincare nerds to add to their regimes. This potent 1% vegan retinol (which feels like a cream but should be used as a serum) is the answer to major blemish breakouts or those pesky fine lines that have settled in. Hot tip: be sure to use this with no other actives and mix it with your favourite rich moisturiser (you know mine, now), for a drink of hydration.

6. Herbario Detox Cleansing Oil: This cleansing oil is for the die-hard double cleansers out there. Vito Cozza and Valli Shubere created this all-natural and therapeutic cleansing oil out of their clinic in Melbourne (a super-secret and life-changing holistic health experience that you must book in for and try for yourself). This cleansing oil is not just a makeup remover though… it is a skin soother, skin treatment and skin detoxer all in one. I use this at night on its own to leave my skin really hydrated, but if you prefer a squeakier clean feel, double it up with their detox cleansing powder or any of your favourite cleansing gels.

Inspired by LA writers in the ‘70s this is a scent that sparks optimism and energy with blood orange as a top note drying down with vetiver and amber.

LAUREN HINE – FRAGRANCE, HAIR & BODY BRAND MANAGER

7. Ellis Brooklyn West EDP: Choosing a scent each day is like choosing what state of mind you want to portray. They are so personal and evoke memories that can take you back to a special moment in your life. My scent changes are dependent on my mood but the one I always go back to is Ellis Brooklyn West. Inspired by LA writers in the ‘70s this is a scent that sparks optimism and energy with blood orange as a top note drying down with vetiver and amber. It is one of the very few clean fragrances on the market that utilises natural scents whilst being long lasting and looking beautiful on your vanity all at once.

8. Sol de Janerio Brazilian Nude Body Cream: As a fragrance lover I have been searching for a cream that works with my scent, rather than competes with it and the Sol de Janerio Brazilian Nude is the unsung hero of the brand. It is a beautiful hydrating cream that has the subtlest scent of natural oils. The rich creamy formula is my go-to as we come into winter and your body needs a little bit of extra attention.

9. Bumble & Bumble Pret-a-Powder Dry Shampoo: As someone with perpetually oily hair, dry shampoo is my best friend and there is no better than Bumble and Bumble’s Pret-a-Powder.

Don’t be afraid of the white powder, it is so easy to use and blends into even my dark brown hair and a bottle will last you months! You should always apply your dry shampoo to clean, dry hair to ensure the powder can absorb the oil as it’s created, rather than trying to absorb from your already oily strands and just top up as you need.

It will make your wash last a lot longer and look much more natural.

I also love to add the Pret-a-Powder into my hair for when I need more volume at the strands. www.mecca.com.au

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |47

BUSINESS

Coping with

COVID-19 There’s no doubt Aussie retailers suffered a slump in sales as the coronavirus shutdown took place.

But it wasn’t all doom and gloom for the beauty industry – health and beauty retail sales jumped to 121.76% year-on-year growth globally, according to a report from COVID-19 Commerce Insight, a joint project between Emarsys and GoodData.

The report stated a large number of beauty products had seen triple-digit growth compared with the same time last year, with online sales of lipstick up 287%, sales for mascara up 275%, eyelash extensions up 195%, makeup brushes up 188% and nail polish up 128%. Similarly, sales of health-related products like essential oil blends and vitamins increased as people looked for ways to de-stress at home.

Michelle Ruzzene caught up with some key figures in the industry to see how COVID-19 impacted their business in negative – and surprisingly positive – ways.

48| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

HOW HAS COVID-19 HINDERED THE ADORE BEAUTY BUSINESS?

“It has been tough for Adore Beauty’s warehouse staff to keep up with demand while adhering to new safety protocols, such as staggered shifts and fewer people on the floor, this combined with slower delivery times from Australia Post, presumably due to border closures, has posed challenges to our usually very efficient shipping.”

HOW HAS COVID-19 HELPED/ BENEFITED THE ADORE BEAUTY BUSINESS?

“It’s been interesting to watch what customers have prioritised during isolation. Since March we have seen spikes in pampering products like candles and bath products, as well as do-it-yourself substitutes for salon services, like hair dye and nail polish.”

nationwide step up to this challenge and band together. With Nourished Life being Australia’s trusted store for all things clean, we have definitely seen that demand for essential products without harmful ingredients is on the rise.”

BUSINESS

KATE MORRIS, FOUNDER AND CEO, ADORE BEAUTY

WHAT ALTERATIONS HAVE YOU HAD TO MAKE TO YOUR BUSINESS DUE TO COVID-19?

“We have always had a very flexible way of working but it has certainly been an adjustment to have the whole team working remotely including customer service. We have had to put in additional safety measures within our warehouse to ensure all our staff are physical distancing and have the required protective gear.

Most importantly, we have worked on ensuring our team is kept really connected with daily calls and check-ins on everyone’s mental and physical health during this challenging time.”

HOW HAS YOUR MARKETING STRATEGY CHANGED DUE TO COVID-19?

“We reacted quickly to the trends we were seeing from our customers and created a new category on the site – Stay at Home Essentials – which added home items to the usual beauty and fragrance offerings on the site.”

As a pure play online business, we haven’t found the need to shift our marketing strategy as we have always been the place for consumers to purchase clean products online, we have positioned ourselves over the last 5+ years as a safe and reliable place to shop.

The main change we have made is to keep communicating with our consumers via our website and social media to keep them up to date on what is happening regarding dispatch and delivery times. We have also embraced the opportunity to connect with our consumers one-on-one, who are actively engaging with us on social media more than ever.

WHAT TOP PIECE OF BUSINESS ADVICE WOULD YOU SHARE SINCE COVID-19?

WHAT HAVE BEEN THE TOP SELLERS / TRENDS DUE TO COVID-19?

“We are focused firstly on protecting the health of our team, and secondly on protecting jobs and ensuring the business’ survival.

Fortunately, our sales are very strong at the moment, however, I think all businesses should be conserving their cash, monitoring cashflow daily, and minimising their fixed costs where possible.”

“During the early stages of COVID-19, we certainly found an uptick in sales on essential sanitising products such as hand wash and hand sanitiser. However, as the time in isolation continued, we have found consumers wanting products focused on their health and wellbeing, specifically for relaxation. We have also experienced increased demand for our sexual health category, as well as gift purchases – with Mother’s Day happening in isolation in most states, we were able to deliver physical and digital gifts to mothers around Australia.”

WHAT ALTERATIONS HAVE YOU HAD TO MAKE TO THE ADORE BEAUTY BUSINESS IN 2020?

LANI BARMAKOV, HEAD OF E-COMMERCE AND DIGITAL, NOURISHED LIFE HOW HAS COVID-19 HINDERED YOUR BUSINESS?

WHAT TOP PIECE OF BUSINESS ADVICE WOULD YOU SHARE SINCE COVID-19?

“COVID-19 has been an event that no one could have expected. It has been dramatic and challenging across all aspects of life - personal and business.

At Nourished Life, we have had to make some very quick changes to accommodate for the huge uptick in volume as much of the community has turned to online for their essentials. Our mission has always been to be on a journey alongside our customers and in the COVID-19 time, we have not deviated from that.”

“To be honest, it’s really hard to give any advice at the moment – it’s such a challenging time for everyone. I would say the best thing you can do is to keep watching and learning, and don’t be too hard on yourself. Try and surround yourself with people that can support you and keep you strong.”

HOW HAS COVID-19 HELPED / BENEFITED YOUR BUSINESS?

“The COVID-19 situation has brought new audiences to the world of online shopping which has really pushed online retailers, including Nourished Life, to step up to the challenge of accommodating the new demand while adhering to the restrictions put in place. We are proud to see the online retail community

ANTHONY NAPPA, MANAGING DIRECTOR, OZ HAIR & BEAUTY HOW HAS COVID-19 HINDERED THE OZ HAIR & BEAUTY BUSINESS?

“COVID-19 has had both positive and negative effects on our business. For instance, March and April were record months for our business, with increases of up to 120 per cent some weeks. On the flip side, the unexpected demand ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |49

BUSINESS

Adore Beauty’s top category growth during lockdown: has impacted our supply chain in certain areas, with some products out of stock. We’ve also had to quickly adapt to our office staff working from home, while our warehouse teams have been split into shifts in line with social distancing rules.”

HOW HAS COVID-19 HELPED/ BENEFITED THE OZ HAIR & BEAUTY BUSINESS?

“The beauty industry has been hit particularly hard by the COVID restrictions, but it’s been encouraging to see how our customers have responded. Consumers turn to hair and beauty services to feel good and this hasn’t stopped because of the pandemic. In fact, we have seen a surge in demand for products such as hair colour, eyelash tints, nail polish and hair removal products as Australians have embraced DIY solutions following the March 25 shutdown.

Once COVID-19 took hold in Australia, we quickly adapted our marketing strategy to focus on self-care and at-home beauty themes and content, for instance, pushing out a lot of iso memes.”

WHAT TOP PIECE OF BUSINESS ADVICE WOULD YOU SHARE SINCE COVID-19?

“My advice to others in the beauty and retail industry is to look at ways to convert in-store shoppers into online customers for life. This is your chance to really stand out and not just gain a new customer, but a customer relationship.”

ALI SHORAKA, CEO, FUCHSIA BRANDS HOW DID THE BUSINESS ADAPT TO THE COVID-19 OUTBREAK?

“Establishing a sense of calmness and avoiding panic is the key when dealing with any crisis. I knew I must act fast, yet it was crucial to lead from front and assure the teams that despite all the uncertainties we will form a point of view, follow the best advice we could possibly get and most importantly look after each other. I shared a list of eight principle guidelines in order to keep our focus narrow and effective. Things like quality of communication from credible sources, removing stress for the team by providing flexibility and ways to relax and focus on wellbeing, daily briefings, health and safety regulations, new ways of working, sound scenarios and analysis of our business and our business partners evaluating the impact and recovery paths.”

HOW DID YOU CONTINUE GLOBAL EXPANSION FOR SENSORI+ IN THE MIDDLE OF A PANDEMIC?

“ We focused on four main areas: 1. Being a problem-solving brand with useful products. Sounds simple but the reality is that the world doesn’t need another room mist BUT it certainly needs a mist which is not only providing a sensational aroma but also detoxifies the environment. During the pandemic, as well as post-pandemic, people seek products which are scientifically backed and can significantly improve their wellbeing 2. Making the most out of technology. We have had many great, efficient and impactful meetings via Zoom presenting our brand to potential buyers.

3. Focus on game changing markets and retailers. We have picked markets based on our long-term strategy vs convenience. UK, 50| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

• Skincare tools - 112% growth • Home fragrance - 105% growth • Exfoliators - 62.7% growth • Masks - 61.2% growth • Sex category - 45% growth • Serums - 32.3% growth

China, Japan, South Korea, Germany, France and New Zealand each play a major role in our expansion roadmap and as such have been our priorities.

4. Remain positive and bring good news to the retailers and consumers. More than ever the world needs joy. Sensori+ has a very optimistic and upbeat view on the world. The brand shares this optimism across all touch points. Many buyers appreciate this unique culture and are keen to welcome us into their portfolio.”

What other business owners had to say: IRENE FALCONE, FOUNDER, NOURISHED LIFE “While there’s hope that there’ll be some return to normalcy soon, people are continuing to shop online in huge quantities. At Nourished Life, Australia’s home of natural makeup, organic skincare and healthy living products, we’re experiencing a surge in sales across most product categories and we’re glad to be able to do our part to support people who are following social isolation measures. Some, like hand sanitiser and hand wash, come as no surprise, but we’ve also seen an uptick in sales of products for home pampering, including nail polish and hair care. There has also been an uptick on health products such as magnesium, as people are looking for ways to de-stress at home, particularly during the homeschooling period.”

CLAIRE MITCHELL, CEO AND DIRECTOR, ECO MODERN ESSENTIALS “With COVID-19, we have received record demand for our essential oil blends as our customers seek to use aromatherapy to create a healthy and happy home environment. Specifically, we’ve seen a spike in sales of products used for supporting immunity, cleaning and detoxing the home. To assist our customers, we’ve created a collection of essential oils that target these needs.”

ADAM IOAKIM, MANAGING DIRECTOR, APAC, EMARSYS “Australian consumers are splashing out on health and beauty online to get through the pandemic. While it’s easy to get caught up in the chaos of this demand, it’s important that customer experience remains at the forefront. Many brands will be experiencing a surge in first-time customers and this represents a huge opportunity to build and retain trusted, loyal and long-lasting customer relationships.”

Round Up

The latest news, views and insights happening in the online world of retail thanks to Retailbiz editor Emily Bencic.

BUSINESS

Online Retail

Shopper Experience Index (SEI) released by product reviews and user generated content solutions provider, Bazaarvoice.

Another key factor fueling the shopping journey is user-generated content, Australian consumers are wary of shopping experiences that feel one-sided. They want to trust brands and retailers with 72% of Australian shoppers claiming to trust online product reviews.

Trust is at the heart of Australian shoppers’ decision making, with most shoppers only buying from brands that they trust. Australian shoppers are also concerned when the review comes from a brand itself with 40% of shoppers stating that fake reviews from a brand would cause them to completely lose trust in it.

WHY RETAILERS NEED TO CONSIDER DRONE DELIVERY

More than half of Australian consumers (54%) are comfortable with drone and self-propelled vehicle delivery, according to a recent survey by mobile and IoT management solutions provider, SOTI. Further, the receptiveness of Australian consumers to drone delivery is well ahead of consumer sentiment across the globe. In its 2020 State of Mobility Retail Report, SOTI found that 31% were in favour of delivery drones and even countries that were a little more cautious in other areas of the survey (the UK and Germany) had 25% of consumers comfortable with drone delivery.

SOTI Australia and New Zealand managing director, Michael Dyson said the supply chain industry is one that is used to adapting and evolving to meet ever increasing consumer expectations.

“With the rise of online shopping, we’ve also seen an increase in demand from consumers for faster delivery; something that has been particularly highlighted by the restrictions resulting from the COVID-19 outbreak,” he said.

“With Australian consumers now familiar with, and open to, the idea of having the products they buy online delivered by drones, it is only a matter of time before local supply chains will face new pressures to transform and cater to this new delivery channel.”

WHAT DRIVES ONLINE PURCHASE DECISIONS FOR AUSSIES?

Convenient delivery options and competitive pricing are the two main factors that Australian consumers have come to expect from online retailers, with 25% of consumers using two-day shipping, 30% using buy online, pick-up-in-store, while 18% have tried a subscription service in the past year, according to the annual

‘BRICKS TO CLICKS’ SPURRING ONLINE RETAIL PURCHASES

Online transactions in Australia experienced 109% growth in the first week of May alone, compared with the previous corresponding period, according to data from Emarsys. To keep up with this online activity boom, retailers are turning to after-hours collection networks such as Hubbed, rather than post offices, to drop off parcels. Since March 5, Sendle reports that 39% of its parcels were dropped off at Hubbed locations outside of 9am to 5pm on weekdays, while 35% dropped off their parcels outside of 9am to 6pm on weekdays.

The top ten suburbs for after-hours parcel drop-offs are in Victoria including Melbourne CBD, Mill Park, Reservoir, Moorabbin, Brunswick East, Blackburn, Glen Waverley, and Frankston, with the list rounded out by Sydney CBD and Marrickville in New South Wales. Hubbed enables Australian carriers such as Sendle, TOLL, DHL, TNT and CouriersPlease to offer after-hours collection points available at pharmacies, as well as BP service stations, 7-Eleven stores and newsagents – many open 24 hours, seven days a week.

Sendle CEO James Chin Moody said since offering Hubbed pick-up and drop-off locations almost two years ago, there has been an increasing number of small business customers using the service because it offers more flexibility.

“In 2019, we saw a 20% increase in people using the Hubbed network both during and after business hours. The March 2020 spike is a result of the COVID-19 bricks to clicks phenomenon where consumers are purchasing online rather than in-store,” he said.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |51

powered by

Deliver live or recorded content directly to your audience Live Demos

Webinars

Live Streaming

Virtual Events

Live Panels

Virtual Summits Roundtables Product Launches Contests

Live Q&A

✓ Increase lead generation ✓ Boost engagement and brand awareness ✓ Educate and demonstrate to your customers ✓ Deliver digital dialogue with speed to market

Expanding your digital opportunities has never been easier!

Download the free kit today tinyurl.com/EventsVirtual To discuss further contact Nicci Herrera E: nicci@esprit-magazine.com.au M: +61 426 826 977 #TIGvirtualevents

BUSINESS

Anatomy of a webinar The Beauty & the Best podcast featured an interview with Michael Bunker from Redback Connect, an Australian company that deploys the latest webinar, webcasting, teleconferencing, web conferencing and cloud video conferencing technologies to thousands of businesses, helping them to meet, present and collaborate at a distance.

He shared exclusively with Nicci Herrera the 10 Essential Elements for Success when it comes to holding or hosting a webinar.

1. THE CONTENT What content and information do you currently have? Don’t reinvent the wheel. Utilise blog and eBooks, research reports, online TV shows and customer stories already at your disposal.

7. SLIDES AND RESOURCES How engaging are your slides? Consider functionality such as open and closing, holding slides, animations and various presenters on one slide deck. Make sure you highlight further resources, including relevant, content links and PDFs, videos and any other upcoming webinars.

2. PROMOTIONAL MESSAGING Ensure your webinar is promoted to the right people.

Send invitation emails to people using community databases, your business partners, presenters and e-newsletters. Internally promote the event via your email signature, updating your website or sending to team. Get social – use LinkedIn, Facebook, promo videos, posts and articles to spread the word.

3. SPONSORS Think beyond logos. Consider promotional messaging, webinar players, videos intro and outros and moderation.

4. REGISTRATION Make it easy. Keep it seamless. Keep information fields to a minimum. Ask for questions with an end in mind. Supply confirmation with all the necessary information including the next steps, contact details and any relevant links. Use an auto-responder so the participant can immediately add to their calendar.

Send reminders.

5. THE PLATFORM Make it work for you and your business’ needs .

Select your format. Think about audio vs video and slides. Will it be in studio or remote? How customisable is it?

6. TALENT Content is king. Ensure the webinar is engaging to everyone. Consider testing and training, platform features, moderation and facilitation panels.

Content is king. Ensure the webinar is engaging to everyone.

Consider testing and training, platform features, moderation and facilitation panels.

8. Q&A There are many different types of Q&A sessions you can hold including a private chat, where participants submit questions to the moderator and speakers, an open chat, which encourage open discussions, a video chat, where attendees submit videos prior or a pre chat, where attendees submit questions via rego page.

Think about what works best for you.

9. TRAINING Think about training timing before the event – allow at least one week before group sessions. Consider panel discussions - how will they work? Who will moderate? Think about the types of Q&S sessions mentioned above. Platform and features- consider variables such as answering questions, moving slides and backup options.

10. POST-EVENT SURVEY Always have a post-event survey to find out people enjoyed and what areas could be improved on.

Ask attendees questions about the presenters, the content, future topics and the technology. Enquire about the ease of access within the platform, redirect and after the event. Make sure to always follow up with continuing professional development, responding, FAQs. To find out what else Michael had to say, make sure you listen to the full podcast with Nicci Herrera available now on Apple and Spotify.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |53

Finding the right investors Everyone wants you… or a piece of you Picture this – you have created the most awesome brand; you have worked your butt off and now it’s time to grow.

Your ‘baby’ is now walking, and you may have even landed a key distributor – fortunately, the beauty industry has seen massive support around indie brands these past few years – but what is next?

Nicci Herrera talks firsthand about how the path to business success is often fraught with difficulty.

54| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

A long-time industry connection, Chris Glebatsas, recently called me out of the blue. He was a huge supporter of the first brand I started, Lust Have It, which was Australia’s first subscription beauty box. After pleasantries were exchanged, I asked him ‘Where have you been? You and your brand were so successful and then disappeared into thin air.’ As Chris began to share details of his two-year legal battle with his toxic investor, my heart sank. I knew his heart ache so well.

I have kept tight lipped about my investor journey, and I hold my breath when I meet with brands that are on the verge of selling equity in their companies. They are all given the same message that was drummed into me when offers were on the table – a percentage of something is better than 100 per cent of NOTHING. So, why am I sharing this? We all too often hear about the success stories of investors. I know there are many companies out there that truly are interested in mentoring you and helping you grow your brand. But we rarely hear the ‘bad’.

I started building my company, Lust Have It, in 2010 with a two-month-old baby in my arms and funding from the federal government’s Baby Bonus. By July 1, 2011, the business was officially launched. I had one goal – to have 500 subscribers by the end of the year. Fortunately, I met my target in just two weeks.

I thought I was on the path to business success – but this was the start of a few years of the most stressful time in my life.

By September I had investors knocking down my door to have a piece of my company. Who should I choose? What should I look

BUSINESS

for? Suddenly, my little hobby while on maternity leave became my next big career move.

While in the negotiation process, I had a mentor in the industry keen to be part of the business pull me aside for a warning, saying she didn’t trust the investors I had signed a deal with.

But it was too late, I was already committed hook, line and sinker.

Without going into detail, the investors shared with a few people in the beauty industry (which can be a very small one) that they were planning to take over my company.

They held payroll to ransom and demanded I sign over the company within 12 hours or face the consequence of all my staff losing their jobs.

I ended up negotiating so that myself and my staff were able to keep their jobs - but let’s just say once I was out of the business, it didn’t survive much longer.

The investors sold Lust Have It on to another company, who then closed it.

And the investor fund no longer exists.

I am not going to say my horrible investor journey was all their fault or that it was all mine. However, hindsight is a powerful thing and provides us the opportunity to pass on our wisdom. To help you, or any other potential small business owners suffering a similar fate, Chris and I have pulled together our Top 15 tips to help you find the right investor and protect yourself from potential financial hardship in the future.

1) Listen to your gut. Gaining a new business partner is a lot like gaining a spouse. For life.

2) Make sure your goals align when it comes to money, especially budgets and projected forecasts. You need an investor who is brave and has deep pockets, as inevitably things always take longer and cost more than you anticipate.

3) Do not over commit your time and expertise (you will be held to it). It’s better to under promise and over deliver.

4) Find ‘smart money’ from investors that offer the experience and expertise that you may lack, or that you need in the business.

Don’t be lured by money alone.

5) Know what your potential investors exit strategy is and have an agreed timeline and approach up front.

6) Do your due diligence – research the background of the investors and track down other companies they have worked with, as ‘a leopard cannot change its spots’.

7) Don’t be afraid to change your mind. If, at the eleventh hour, it still does not feel right, DO NOT SIGN. 8) Don’t assume legal documents will protect you from unethical and dishonest investors, as to enforce a contract ends up costing

you more than the benefit. Again, know your investors history and background before signing on the dotted line.

9) Be careful of any investor who wants to put debt as equity into your business, as this potentially allows them to take control of your business by calling on the debt at a time that suits them in the future.

10) Steer clear of the ‘Fancy Pants’ investors, these are the ones who are all surface but lack any real substance.

They’ll wear your business as an accessory to show off to their friends, however when tough decisions need to be made, they won’t step up to the challenge. They are easy to spot as they’ve usually had more work done than Dolly Parton.

11) A good investor should have great industry connections, that will immediately add benefit besides just providing the money.

Look for those who can help you reduce costs, improve sales or gain distribution.

12) Look for investors who have had experience working with other start-ups (the more the better) and who have a track record of successfully scaling businesses. These are the ideal investors and worthy of selling a share of your business to.

13) Multiple investors are sometimes better than choosing just one. Of course you might be lucky enough to find the ideal investor who meets all of the above criteria, however often it’s easier to find a small number of investors who can provide a great diversity of ideas, experiences and industry knowledge that will ensure your business goes from start-up to international success quickly.

14) Once you’re in bed with your investors, for any future changes to investor terms, documents or contracts, always get your own independent legal advice, outside of the company advice.

15) Ensure you retain your own lawyers and accountants separate to your investors other businesses. While they may suggest it as a cost save to use their lawyers or accountants, this is one way of ensuring things don’t turn to mud.

Nicci Herrera

Chris Glebatsas ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |55

MY JOURNEY

From shop floor to top floor

There is nothing quite like retail experience to kickstart your career in any given field. The skills you learn on the shop floor can be transferred to almost every job in any industry. From dealing directly with all kinds and types of people on a regular basis, to selling goods and services, and building a strong work ethic, retail affords many avenues to other career opportunities.

Michelle Ruzzene catches up with Alex Bateman, senior account manager at public relations firm AMPR and Kate Squires, head of creative and principle artist at Napoleon Perdis, who share their journey with esprit.

Always be polite, genuine, informative and helpful, all with a smile on your face. It pays to be kind, always.

Alex Bateman

senior account manager, AMPR FIRST RETAIL JOB? “I worked in Terry Bateman Pharmacy (my uncle’s pharmacy) on the Mornington Peninsula from when I was 15 for seven years, while I finished school and studied at university.”

WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM THE SHOP FLOOR? “I really learnt how to communicate, be confident in myself and my knowledge and how to effectively sell product. I was very lucky that I was put through brand training for a number of cosmetic and skincare brands such as Revlon, Natio, Innoxa and Dr Lewinn’s which inspired my passion for beauty.”

56| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

WHAT CHALLENGES DID YOU FACE? “Initially it was building my confidence, but as per any retail job it was difficult customers that posed the biggest challenge.”

HOW DID YOU GET TO YOUR POSITION TODAY? “I studied arts and PR / Journalism at Monash University and one day decided I really wanted to do an internship in public relations. I hit the internet and researched all of Melbourne’s PR agencies. I loved the diverse client offering at AMPR so emailed the general manager directly about an internship. I interviewed the next day, started the next week and eight years on I run the beauty team at AMPR.” HOW HAS RETAIL CHANGED? “I feel like in my day, customer service and in-depth knowledge of what I was selling was required. Today, I walk into

a store and often a sales assistant will not know the formulation of a product and be unable to answer quite basic questions. The training / education with some brands (not all) has fallen by the wayside. Brands like Mecca still place such an emphasis on this knowledge which is amazing to see.”

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO THOSE ON THE SHOP FLOOR? “Always be polite, genuine, informative and helpful, all with a smile on your face.

It pays to be kind, always.”

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN THE NEXT FIVE YEARS? 10 YEARS? “Working in PR, continuing to grow the beauty team and manage major large-scale events.”

Kate Squires

head of creative and principle artist, Napoleon Perdis FIRST RETAIL JOB? “Valley Girl, fashion retail in Brisbane City for about 10 months during 2003.

Napoleon Perdis for about 2.5 years from 2004 until 2006.”

WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM THE SHOP FLOOR? “At Valley Girl, the first lesson I learnt was not to lean on the POS counter. As a young girl from the country with her first job in the big city, I really had no idea what I was doing and was not aware that doing such a thing gave a terribly lazy impression to my new manager. More importantly, I learnt that everyone on a retail team plays a part in achieving the goals of the day.

There are tasks that are more engaging then others and some you don’t love doing, but each task is part of a bigger picture that ensures the ongoing success of the business. I also learnt a lot about urgency.

At Napoleon, I found beauty retail was a great place for a makeup artist to begin their career. You learn a lot about adapting makeup techniques to many different faces and it develops your customer services skills, quickly.”

WHAT CHALLENGES DID YOU FACE? “Keeping myself motivated in quiet periods. The rollercoaster of the retail week can be tough - weekends you’re run off your feet but in contrast the start of the week can be extremely quiet. It’s important to stay motivated in these quiet times to ensure you don’t miss an opportunity to help achieve your targets.”

HOW DID YOU GET TO YOUR POSITION TODAY? “I spent almost three years working in the retail stores, then became a part of the Napoleon Perdis Artistry Team. This was a

team of the brands top artists who looked after external sponsorships, runway shows, editorial shoots while also training internal staff and teaching courses at the Napoleon Perdis Makeup Academy. In 2012, I moved into the position of global makeup artist, where I led the Artistry Team from a managerial perspective and began consulting to the Product Development and Marketing Teams where an artist’s perspective was required. In 2016, I moved into the role of vice president of creative.

I was a conduit for advice between the creative director and the marketing team where it came to rolling seasonal product strategy out across all of its executions.

I moved into my current role of head of creative and principle makeup artist in July 2019, which is a mix of rolls. I lead our teams across product development, creative/design and visual merchandising, having touch points from a products conception to roll out into stores.”

HOW HAS RETAIL CHANGED? “Technology is the biggest change, but on a few different levels. E-commerce hadn’t hit in Australia when I was working in retail, so that additional layer of complexity for brick and mortar brands didn’t exist – if you wanted to purchase something you had to go to a physical store, so traffic flow was quite consistent.

The online world and social media were also not a thing, so the customer wasn’t as educated about formula, ingredients and makeup trends and the expert/customer relationship was a completely different experience. The customer really relied on you for advice, whereas now, customers have done the research before coming into a store and know exactly what they want when they arrive.”

MY JOURNEY

I’m so passionate about reducing waste and the beauty world have a hard task ahead of them (us) to create products that are 100% recyclable.

incredible place to refine both your technical and people skills. You can see many clients you might not have access to when first beginning your freelance career, and this in itself is priceless training.

Persevere through the quiet times and sales targets and you never know where it might take you. The world of makeup and beauty is more than just artistry – you never know how you may be able to develop your career and where it might take you, I didn’t think mine would lead me to creative direction and product development.”

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN THE NEXT FIVE YEARS? 10 YEARS? “Making waves in the next five years producing ethical products with a plan for greater sustainability. I’m so passionate about reducing waste and the beauty world have a hard task ahead of them (us) to create products that are 100% recyclable. I want to find realistic solutions that are cost effective for the customer and still feel beautiful in your makeup bag. In 10 years, it would be combining beauty and health - I’ve recently trained in integrative nutrition and holistic health coaching and it’s incredible how our ‘beauty bits’ are affected by what’s going on internally.

Health will never replace artistry, but for the everyday consumer, the amount of beauty products they use for the external could be minimised by working on the internal. I’ve seen some great changes in myself so I’m excited to see how I can combine the beauty and health and help others find the changes too.”

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO THOSE ON THE SHOP FLOOR? “While it sometimes seems tough, for a makeup artist, beauty retail is an ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |57

BUSINESS

AINSLIE WALKER TALKS

Niche Fragrance News

Perfume & a Pandemic Ainslie Walker talks to business owners from the Australian niche fragrance industry to see how they have dealt with the challenges of COVID-19.

LORE PERFUMERY - MELBOURNE Co-owners of Melbourne’s Lore Perfumery, Jessica Tate and Jade McAndrew, felt broken-hearted as they closed their store in March. As much of their trade relied heavily on the in-store, sensory experience, they adapted quickly, setting out to replicate this experience online. Jade and Jess additionally rolled up their sleeves, packing orders while their teams worked from home on the federal government’s JobKeeper payments. Secrets to their survival included adding more free samples to orders, targeted to the tastes of the shopper, free shipping on all orders, handwritten notes thanking customers for their support and gift-wrapping complete with a spritz of fragrance. Their aim was to make the online shopping experience as special as being in-store at Lore and this was achieved with the dynamic duo also filming brand reviews and personal recommendations for social media from inside the store. Loyal Lore customers were savvy and adapted quickly. Through phone and email consultations, local pick-ups and sending out hundreds of Mother’s Day gifts across the country, the team at Lore believe they kept their customers happy.

Lore saw a boost in sales of candles and perfume – in particular, custom sample packs and branded discovery kits – as well as bath and body products and skincare.

These trends were a result of people spending more time at home and wanting to make their space more special. With the seasons changing, people updated their skincare and perfume habits based on the weather and this new indoor living.

Their newly launched signature range of body care was also very popular, especially 58| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

Customers feel a sense of confidence and it has really helped us with the online only transition during COVID-19...

It’s also perfect for gifting.

Jade McAndrew, co-owner of Melbourne’s Lore Perfumery. Image: Instagram.

over Mother’s Day, with people opting for locally made and wanting to support small business. The Lore Promise, launched in 2018, offers free exchange for fragrance purchased online. Customers are sent a sample vial to try before opening their product. Jade said it gave people the time to explore fragrance in the comfort of their own home and to try it before committing to a purchase. “Customers feel a sense of confidence and it has really helped us with the online only transition during COVID-19,” Jade said. “It’s also perfect for gifting.” Jade continued: “We know 2020 is going to continue to be unpredictable and we still have challenging times ahead, but we have plans in the pipeline to really bring Lore further into people’s homes.”

PEONY MELBOURNE During lockdown Peony’s online business really thrived with customers looking for ‘feel-good’ products to keep their spirits up and improve their home environment.

Mother’s Day was also strong with customers sending gorgeous and exclusive gifts from the store to their loved ones.

Selling perfume post COVD-19 requires creative thinking, both online and in-store.

Upon reopening Jill Timms, proprietor of Peony Melbourne, found for both her and the customers the adjustments were tough. Not everyone has liked to sanitise their hands upon entry, and some have been slow to understand why only two people at a time are allowed in store at anyone time. Persistence is key, however, as this is the ‘new normal’ for fragrance shopping and retail in general. Jill has attempted to adopt a no-touch policy, which is challenging considering all of the shiny treasures on shelf that scream to be

BUSINESS

touched and smelt. Jill instead completes a fragrance consultation with each customer and then prepares a tray of five fragrances, which she presents to the customer and steps back for them to try – this seems to be the safest and most helpful approach.

With more cleaning also part of the routine, Jill is busy - all the bottles, candles and flat surfaces must be frequently cleaned, and the front door handle and eftpos machine must be disinfected after each customer.

Furthermore, the store is not accepting cash, preferring a contactless form of payment.

AGENCE DE PARFUMS The Agence de Parfums team were quick to take their perfume masterclasses online, opting to use Zoom as soon as lockdown started. Clients paid $49 that was redeemable against purchases and were sent samples so as they could join in the workshop and enjoy the fragrances in their own homes. The classes proved popular and in fact became more inclusive for customers all over the country who would ordinarily miss out or must travel a long way to attend.

The team also moved their headquarters from Surry Hills to Redfern and have some exciting plans up their sleeves in the lead up to Christmas.

MAP OF THE HEART As COVID-19 restrictions came into play Sarah Blair, co-owner of Map of the Heart, closed the doors to the flagship store in Darlinghurst and changed her focus to online. This included running a fascinating series of ‘Behind the Scenes’, engaging with customers to offer an explanation into how much care and love went into every aspect of Map of

Having the scent of someone you love is a beautiful way of connecting with them a little more.

Sarah Blair and Jeffrey Darling, co-owners of Map of the Heart. Image: Map of the Heart.

the Heart. It also showed the fragrance house’s intriguing background story, and how her partner and co-owner, director Jeffery Darling, brought his artistic talent to the business. A free, refillable travel vial was offered with the purchase of any 90ml Heart so customers could fill, send and share with a loved one who was far away. Sarah explained: “Having the scent of someone you love is a beautiful way of connecting with them a little more.”

As lockdown restrictions relaxed, they re-opened the store by appointment only.

All appointments are now conducted with social distancing, hand- sanitising and cleaning of all samples and surfacing prior and post each appointment.

GOLDFIELD & BANKS The lockdown period has been very successful for Dimitri Webber, director of Goldfield & Banks, in particular for their US markets and online. On Instagram, the brand successfully collaborated with other local brands, and this drove sales online massively.

Their newest release, Bohemian Lime, was soft launched exclusively online and through Australian retailers Lore and GentSac in March/April, and almost immediately sold out. The second batch was made available mid-June to all retailers.

Now more than ever online is priority, including a new website in Australia, the US and Europe. Sampling is important and the continuous support from media and customers has been a blessing during this difficult time in retail.

The most negative impact from this period on the brand has been not being able to visit their bricks and mortar stockists in Australia and overseas. The cancellation of Exsence, an annual art

perfumery event held in Milan, was also a missed opportunity, but the ever-upbeat Dimitri said: “This sabbatical year is good to work on the future.”

Prior to COVID-19 lockdowns, Goldfield & Banks were lucky to sign partnerships with retailers such as Bloomingdales, Heinemann and Selfridges. They also entered new territories such as Ukraine with Aromateque. Dimitri felt confident that once retail reopened the brand was therefore safe and ready to go.

In June, the brand launched in China on Tmall, and a collaboration with the biggest Australian local cosmetics retailer is set to be unveiled. Dimitri also has plans to take the business Trans-Tasman. “New Zealand is on our to-do list as enquiries rise every week,” he said.

This sabbatical year is good to work on the future...

New Zealand is on our to-do list as enquiries rise every week.

Dimitri Webber, director of Goldfield & Banks.

Image: Goldfield & Banks.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |59

BUSINESS

Off-the-charts hand sanitiser demand highlights the importance of the personal care industry

By Dr Jennifer Semple

It would be hard to think of a time when the personal care industry has been so challenged, but also so appreciated.

Challenged for many obvious reasons arising from the COVID-19 pandemic. Social distancing restrictions.

No foot traffic for bricks-and-mortar businesses. And uncertainty about the duration of the crisis and the measures required to contain it. These challenges are not unique to our industry.

But, as the traditional supplier of a product that everyone needs - hand sanitiser - there is no doubt that COVID-19 has helped propel our industry into the spotlight as a trusted supplier of essential goods.

Hand sanitiser has been a hot, hot topic in recent months. Everyone wants it. And market shortages are affecting diverse users, including consumers, healthcare, manufacturing and businesses. You may have been affected personally by the empty shelves, or professionally as you have struggled to source hand sanitiser for use in your workplace or business.

Perhaps your business has been a long-term supplier of hand sanitiser and the requests are flooding in. Or, you may be one of the many companies pivoting to hand sanitiser supply and you are grappling with supply chain, WHS and other essential safety requirements relating to manufacturing and shipping highly flammable goods.

Accord has been doing a lot in the hand sanitiser space, primarily around supply chain and safety.

We are an active member of the Hand Sanitiser Industry Roundtable established by federal Industry Minister the Hon Karen Andrews MP to address possible roadblocks for hand sanitiser supply.

Our industry survey identified the main roadblocks in hand sanitiser supply for local manufacturers. For example, 75% and 50% of responding companies reported supply shortages for ethanol and isopropanol, respectively, and 58% reported issues with obtaining supplies of gelling agents: all key ingredients for alcohol-based hand sanitisers. Supply issues relating to the availability of packs and packaging materials were also revealed. The survey results were picked up by the Sydney Morning Herald, and in a recent Choice article.

Following on from our survey, Accord is now acting as the central dissemination point for urgent requests for hand sanitiser supplies via our new Connect initiative. Connect matches requests for alcoholbased hand sanitiser product with hand sanitiser product suppliers. It is an efficient solution developed in collaboration with the Department of Industry Science Energy and Resources (DISER), the Australian Distillers Association and the Consumer Healthcare Products Australia.

At present, Accord is considering the need for a bespoke system to help match ingredient and packaging suppliers with manufacturers, or whether existing platforms are sufficient. In the interim, Accord is functioning as an ad hoc conduit for such 60| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

information, e.g. sharing supplier information with the ability to supply key ingredients and components.

In addition to our many tangible supply chain efforts, Accord is also sharing expertise to ensure ongoing product safety and quality in the market. We are working actively with all the relevant regulators to ensure a more seamless system, but with all the checks, balances and industry guidance to facilitate compliance and the appropriate quality and performance obligations for such important hygiene products.

Accord is also providing advice to the public on effective and safe product use. For example, following reports of a spike in child exposure incidents involving hand sanitisers, Accord has emphasised how to keep children safe when using these products via messages on our Hygiene for Health and Children and Household Product Safety webpages. We have also reminded consumers of the importance of moisturising to retain skin health amidst extra vigilance with hand hygiene.

If you would like to get in touch with Accord in relation to hand sanitisers, please contact bcapanna@accord.asn.au.

ABOUT DR JENNIFER SEMPLE

Dr Jennifer Semple is the Innovation & Education Manager at Accord Australasia Limited

ABOUT ACCORD

Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australianowned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www. accord.asn.au

HEALTH & WELLNESS

Health & Wellness Insider secrets, tips, insights and advice from esprit wellness experts on how to live a healthier life.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |61

Rudderless in iso

By Andrea Ferrari, esprit Founder

I burst into tears this morning. I’m not tearful by nature, nor am I stoic with a stiff upper lip. I’m somewhere in between. Intrinsically happy, finding purpose and happy satisfaction filling my days enjoying pastimes, including walking, yoga, reading, writing and water colour sketching.

Pottering around doing housework this morning I came back from binning the rubbish and felt a welling up of emotion. Up it came and for a second I considered mastering it. My daughter was midsentence chatting with me. Maybe I could quell this conversation-stopper before is emerged. Too late. It blew. The floodgates opened. I gushed. I gabbled.

Blessed with emotionally aware kids, my daughter is an experienced and pragmatic wellness counsellor.

I was in good hands for the comforting process. Calm and proactive she provided physical and emotional support so that the blubs and blabbering could begin to make sense. “I don’t know what I’m doing.

I haven’t done ANYTHING for six weeks. I don’t even know WHO I am anymore.” She asked the questions that broke down my sobbing into: a) what was a concern that could be removed from my life, b) important things I need to do today, c) some things I can do this week, and d) a brainstorming session

62| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

When you reach a ripe age, you can go a few ways with your self-opinion. We have library-loads of advice covering everything from pep talks about being old, grey and invisible to financial planning to doing everything you ever wanted to do, realising your best self and enjoying payback time while spending the kids’ inheritance. And then there’s a pandemic and your Bucket List note flutters in the breeze under a rose quartz on your bedside shelf, getting yellowed in the autumn sun.

Civilisation is fragile it seems and we’re all feeling it.

about a creative project that has emerged. It was such a pressure-popper to established what could be removed from my mulling mind. Things that were scaring me, making me uncomfortable or feeling to me like they were just too big to handle right now.

Listing the things to do, with an action timeline, brought a settled feeling into my body. A good sign to self that we’re on the healing track. Acknowledging the removal of some things that gave me a heavy heart also settled me. “Do you feel disappointed you’ve removed that trip from your to-do list?” No, I didn’t – it’s on the back burner. Its time will come

HEALTH & WELLNESS

when it’s ready to be done and then it will bring a smile to my face, rather than a sinking in my stomach.

Being amongst like-minded people and friends gives me a warm heart and inspires and informs my life. This is a combination of human friends and acquaintances in real time as well as our social media and podcast ‘friends’. Community is something most of us are sensitive to nowadays, having had our touchy-feely chatty connections banned for weeks. During isolation, the communities outside of my co-isolating family, were those that I loved sharing time with ‘before all this’: Egg of the Universe yoga classes, JustSketchNow art classes and various podcasts featuring long-form interviews.

Each was quick in their creativity, setting up regular Zoom meetings and remote recordings. I eagerly looked forward to these get-togethers as did the other participants in these groups. The live chats and before class revealed emotional sharings and experiences that helped connect us to the greater consciousness of the group and make us feel better. Knowing that my yoga teacher and half the class felt absolutely wiped of energy during the new moon in mid-April connected us and normalised an experience that had previously had me wearily mumbling from the couch: “What’s going on with my body?” With twenty or thirty others in our Zoom yoga class expressing this unusual feeling of fatigue we felt the support of community. The same with the Facebook group comment sharing. Maybe is WAS the new moon. Whatever it was, it’s not just me and that feels better. Civilisation is fragile it seems and we’re all feeling it.

In thinking through my new future this sense of like-minded community resonates strongly with me.

I’m drawn towards peaceful activism for wildlife welfare and the environment along with spirituality.

How do I get more involved? I am mindful of the power of Collective Intelligence predisposing my actions. For example, Facebook’s newsfeed moving me in a particular direction of capitalism and state etc – which is informing both my conscious and my subconscious. But it doesn’t resonate with me and actually makes me feel uncomfortable. I want to evolve in a different direction where I can actually increase my ability to influence and be influenced positively, in MY world of interest and alignment.

This means I need to decrease how the current system is shaping my thoughts (negatively)…and have things around me that are guiding me in a direction that I want. My choice.

My thoughts, and in time my focus, are on how I play a part in a collective intelligence that I am a part of that is continuing to support my own interests and sense-making, to orient me in a direction that keeps me settled and inspires me and fits with my values: wildlife welfare and sustainable agriculture, for example. Just expressing that to you, here, gives me a sense of purpose and maybe accountability.

Finding satisfying synergy and stimulation comes down to the degree to which we can find people that are also really earnestly exploring these topics, and not ones that all agree with you. Then we can create higher quality conversations, make a difference

Falling apart and exposing the cracks lets the light in. And slowing things down gives us time for contemplation.

Both are such useful parts of personal growth.

and feel authentically connected within a space of thought-provoking exploration of a diversity of points of view. This will support our happy growth.

It moves us in the right direction better than if we leave the input into our mind largely to those who are doing broadcast media, continuously trying to control our brain feed.* Falling apart and exposing the cracks lets the light in. And slowing things down gives us time for contemplation. Both are such useful parts of personal growth.

If you’ve found yourself rudderless or ungrounded over the past few months take some time to talk freely about your feelings. A pen and paper and a soundingboard human – a friend or mentor, maybe – and a brainstorming. I found it really useful to just speak it out without any self judgement. There’s no right or wrong. Let the words and emotions flow and see what resonates. Identify what you can drop from your life and what you’d like to ramp up. Put things on the backburner and sit with it – see how it feels and most of all listen to your body.

And if you can’t hug a human, hug a tree. The natural world is the most awesome ecosystem of collaboration, adaptability and mutual support which has blossomed through many a natural drama. A tree will hug you back unconditionally…you just have to still yourself to feel it. * In the spirit of Daniel Schmachtenberger Happy hugging. Andrea.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |63

HEALTH & WELLNESS

The new way to

meditate

What exactly is meditation? And why do we need it? Olivia Ferrari on the importance of this simple, ancient and essential practice.

64| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

WHAT IS MEDITATION? Meditation is a tool to help you master the BodyMind so the true self or soul can emerge. We meditate to live our life consciously, making choices from our true nature; rather than allowing logic (as opposed to intuition) or our busy, stressed, troubled thoughts to rule our actions. A mind that meditates is more likely to manage life’s up and downs.

MY EXPERIENCE From discovering life-changing meditative practices in Cambodia and India and since incorporating it into my daily life for several years, meditation has been the fundamental aspect of my self-development and journey towards good health. From my personal experience with a broad spectrum of doctors, healing techniques, diets, plans and exercises discovering meditation has been the most positively impactful.

It is the foundation of my life improving my work, presence and clarity of direction exponentially.

THE CHALLENGE When done incorrectly meditation can feel like a chore. In a modern society with present day demands, it can pose as a challenge rather than solution therefore a new perspective is required.

ADAPTABILITY Meditation for stress vs meditation for relaxation are very different things. Like a chameleon, the ability to be able to adapt your own practice to suit your circumstance is an invaluable tool. Imagine being able to nurture yourself (for free) in every moment of the day no matter what.

YOUR VERY OWN The problem I see with most ready-made meditation practices is that they provide a rigid structure which can distract you from looking at yourself deeply in the moment with what you need right now. They were designed by an individual through exploration for what they found worked and needed in each moment. This is where I urge you to do the same; to explore what you need and when. Here’s how: This is a malleable guide for you to start to create your own practice.

1. Find a quiet spot (not essential) 2. Sit, stand or lie comfortably - anything is ok as long as your spine is straight

3. Close your eyes or soften your gaze, stare at your nose (yes cross-eyed) or a static object in front 4. Tap into the parasympathetic nervous system by slowly deepening your breath over several cycles – if you yawn, experience new bodily sensations, need to pass wind or hear your stomach gurgle this is a good sign 5 EXPLORE: Spend the time you have to explore all realms of your body (mind, body, spirit) within this meditative state: such as? Ask yourself questions: how am I feeling, what am I feeling, where does it hurt, what can I see in my mind’s eye? Try moving, dancing, crying, laughing, anything you feel pulled to, play with both active and passive styles (either in one practice over many), body positioning, lengths of breath, visualisation, points of focus and nostril versus mouth breathing Remember: no day has to be the same. It’s down to what you need in the moment you have.

Example: Today I felt lower in energy but tense so enjoyed a seated position, focusing on extending the length of my breath cycles beginning with emptying my lungs completely. From here I moved into fire breath (explanations can be found online) with moments of pause in between. Next I imagined bright white light pouring down through my crown filling up my body with beautiful energy and emanating out into my energy body or aura. And lastly, I prayed, including noting what I am grateful for and what I would like to experience in the day.

Happy meditating friends!

Olivia is an English-born qualified masseuse, meditation and yoga teacher, based in Sydney’s inner west, running Olivia Ferrari Wellness. For more information visit: oliviaferrariwellness.com

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |65

HEALTH & WELLNESS

Self care

essentials 01.

The outbreak of COVID-19 around the globe has spiked consumer interest in health, particularly when it comes to mind, body and beauty. From supplements to scents, these are the self-care items the esprit team are loving right now.

05.

01. Young Living NingXia Red – a superfruit drink 02.

designed to energise, fortify and revitalise the body and mind. This signature blend features Young Living’s orange, yuzu, lemon, and tangerine essential oils along with blueberry, aronia, cherry, pomegranate, and plum juices www.youngliving.com

02. Elizabeth Arden White Tea Candle - pure, simple and exquisitely uncomplicated, this scented soy candle blends fragrant notes of white tea extract, sea breeze accord and a trio of tranquility musks for a blissful, indulgent escape www.davidjones.com

06.

03. Bioactive Collagen Booster - the combination of carefully selected and scientific based ingredients support skin, nail, gut and hair health including vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, astaxanthin, resveratrol and aloe vera as well as jerusalem artichoke for its prebiotic properties, RRP $104.95 www.muktiorganics.com

04. La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water -the 03.

combination of minerals and trace elements, such as selenium, give this spring water its unique anti-oxidant, prebiotic, skin softening and soothing properties, RRP $11.95 www.laroche-posay.com.au

05. Byredo Rose Hand Wash - this nourishing rose fragranced hand wash will leave your hands completely clean and soft, thanks to its unique formula, gently cleansing without dehydrating skin, RRP $68 www.mecca.com.au

06. Sisley Radiant Glow Express Mask - a cleansing mask with red clay that immediately leaves the skin with a radiant glow. The absorbing power of the clay, in combination with plant extracts and essential oils, helps to eliminate impurities that dull the complexion while deeply cleaning the skin, RRP $150 www.davidjones.com

07. House of Immortelle Sweet Dream Sweet

07.

Orange Massage & Body Oil - a lightweight body oil to relax the body and calm the mind.

The Sweet orange scent is complemented by subtle essential oils of Australian sandalwood and valerian, a botanical known for soothing and restoring the body while sleeping. Jojoba and rosehip oils nourish and soften the skin, RRP $44.95 www.houseofimmortelle.com.au

08. Trilogy Exfoliating Body Balm - the natural

04.

66| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

exfoliant in this body balm is finely ground rosehip seed powder, an innovative, biodegradable, ocean-safe alternative to plastic microbeads. The powder is ground from the solids which remain after the seed oil extraction process, making good use of a by-product and reducing waste, RRP $35.95 www.trilogyproducts.com.au

08.

HEALTH & WELLNESS

09.

11.

10.

09. Beysis Nourishing Nail Oil - formulated to professional standards, this nail oil is packed with a blend of potent vitamins and nutrients to rapidly hydrate and protect tired hands. It contains a combination of anti-oxidants (vitamin E and vitamin C), growth accelerants (vitamin F) and hydrating actives (vitamin A) to help support skin and nail structure, RRP $21 www.beysis.com

10. Salt By Hendrix Love Gua Sha - Rose quartz 12.

is the stone of unconditional love and opens the heart to all types of love including that of ourselves. This device assists with penetration of skincare products into the surface of the skin, while assisting with circulation using massage to any areas that feel puffy, RRP $49.95 www.saltbyhendrix.com.au

15.

11. Garnier Organics Regenerating Lavandin Smooth & Glow Facial Oil - keep skin glowing at home with this luxurious, non-greasy Lavandin facial oil. Use it alone morning and night or add 1 to 2 drops into a facial cream for extra nourishment, RRP $19.95 www.garnier.com.au

12. Raww Small Ultrasonic Aroma Diffuser (USB) – designed with ultrasonic technology, this BPAfree diffuser works on vibration of water rather than heat to fully release the benefits of the essential oils, while humidifying and purifying the air. Can be plugged into a laptop or USB phone charger, RRP $49.99 www.rawwcosmetics.com

13. Natio Calm Essential Oil Blend - restore

13.

emotional balance with this deeply relaxing blend featuring a curated selection of oils including clary sage, mandarin and bergamot, RRP $19.95 www.natio.com.au

14. Burt’s Bees Honey Lip Balm - a natural lip

16.

balm made with sweet, soothing honey to help moisturise and protect lips in the gentlest way.

It is also packed with beeswax, shea butter, almond oil, cocoa butter and ultra-emollient lanolin to keep lips soft and healthy, RRP $6.99 www.burtsbees.com.au

15. Revlon Cooling Facial Roller - made of real jade stone, the roller produces a natural cooling effect. The perfect at-home solution to help cool your skin and reduce the appearance of puffiness, RRP $14.95 www.priceline.com.au/brand/revlon

16. Sally Hansen Pure Elderflower Power 170 – the first plant-based, 10-free*, 100% vegan nail polish by Sally Hansen offers beautiful colour and shine with no compromise. Even the brush is plant-based, with an ergonomic shape for professional application while at home, RRP $16.95, www.chemistwarehouse.com.au

17. Carolina Herrera Good Girl Fantastic Pink –

14.

take a leaf out Marilyn Monroe’s book, who famously said she wore five drops of Chanel No. 5 and nothing else in bed, and spritz a decadent perfume. This complex, oriental fragrance, created by Perfumer Louise Turner, is a must.

RRP $198, www.myer.com.au

17.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |67

Look Good Feel Better is now offering free virtual, interactive workshops, helping even more Australians face cancer with confidence.

Two options are available: Skin care and make-up (1 hour), addressing common side-effects like dryness and sun sensitivity; correcting and concealing redness, sallowness, pigmentation and dark circles; and techniques for drawing on eyebrows and eyelashes.

Wigs and headwear (1 hour) offering advice on wig selection, wig care, scarf styling and alternative headwear options.

Visit lgfb.org.au/workshop to register or find our more.

INFLUENCER

INFLUENCER esprit’s collection of industry friends share their strategies on networking, selling, product knowledge and job-related growth to build your career as a beauty assistant, beauty influencer.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |69

Man in the Mirror Male beauty has gone mainstream, with the number of men’s skin care and beauty products on the rise. We find out how BAs are dealing with the changing attitudes towards male beauty and where they think the industry is headed.

esprit asked the BAs: “How do you see the male beauty industry evolving over the coming years?”

Julieann Taylor Livelife Pharmacy Store: Cooroy City: Cooroy Having been in the pharmacy industry for the best part of 14 years, I’ve seen changes in what customers are wanting to purchase and asking for us to stock in the pharmacy.

I’ve noticed there has definitely been a rise in men’s skin care and beauty products with men wanting to look after there skin without the stigmatism of skin care being only for women. Sales of products for beards, hair and skin care have risen, also there is an increase in new products which suppliers are bringing out into the market place. On average men use at least four skin and hair care products, those being moisturisers, scrubs, body washes and hair sprays. I’ve 70| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

seen many companies introducing a men specific range within their original offerings.

Men don’t seem to mind about price - they are more interested in the quality of the products. In pharmacies, the male skin care section in the past has taken up one to two shelves at the most, but with all the new products and the increased demand for these products we have seen more shelf space and more variety and choice.

I believe that with social media and more information available about personal care, this has led to the rise in men’s skin care and beauty products. You never know in the not to distant future men’s sections in pharmacy might take up the same amount of shelf space as the women’s section.

Men don’t seem to mind about price - they are more interested in the quality of the products.

James Prasad Priceline Store: Bankstown City: Sydney With the barrier between men and women in the beauty world disappearing as our society is becoming more diverse and accepting of different identities.

We are finding more men are coming into our stores, feeling more confident to talk to our BA’S looking for solutions, advice and recommendations on every day skincare. Whether it be looking for skincare or supplement solutions for their skin needs. From acne scaring, anti-ageing or to maintain healthy skin with a daily routine recommended by our BA’s or myself.

I think a massive key aspect that will

According to the 2020 Men’s Cosmetify Index, the top men’s beauty brands are: • Clinique for Men

• Elemis Mens

• Wahl

• L’Oréal Men Expert

• Bulldog

• House99

• Man Cave

• Anthony

• Kiehl’s

• Proraso

BEAUTY & THE BEST

evolve over the coming years when it comes to men’s skincare is that there will no longer be a skincare grouped for just men or women. Skincare will evolve into a more diverse range with both marketing and product being targeted at diverse, uncategorised groups not including gender. Something I have noticed over the years is that men are gravitating more and more towards ‘women’s’ skincare with or without the recommendations of our BA’s knowledge.

Our male customers are much more open to the idea of trying products not located in the men’s section which I think is great as both men and women share so many of the same concerns when it comes to their skin. The diverse evolving society will mould a new future for men’s skincare in the beauty world.

Skincare will evolve into a more diverse range with both marketing and product being targeted at diverse, uncategorised groups not including gender.

• Men’s personal care market is expected to hit $166 billion in 2022, according to Allied Market Research.

• Male-targeted skin-care product sales have jumped 7% in the past year, according to the NPD Group.

• Total men’s grooming products in Australia exceeded $500 million a year, according to a 2015 IBISWorld report.

• Nearly two-thirds of men say they use facial skincare, a 2018 US Mintel study showed.

• Australian men spend roughly $125 monthly on their looks, not too far behind the women at $167 per month, according to a 2017 Mozo lifestyle habits study.

• For total male grooming, supermarkets/hypermarkets represent 34% of sales, pharmacies are a similar percentage, online is sub-10% but growing fastest, and other retailers approximating 25%, according to a 2017 Inkwood Research study.

• Bricks-and-mortar currently accounts for more than 80% of total male grooming product sales globally, according to Euromonitor.

• Nearly 40% of adults aged 18-22 have shown interest in genderneutral beauty products, according to the NPD Group’s iGen Beauty Consumer report.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |71

INFLUENCER

Alison Goodger ALKIRA SKINCARE

By Michelle Ruzzene

Alison Goodger is a true beauty entrepreneur. She launched Sukin, an affordable, natural and cruelty free skincare range in 2007, when the health and wellness movement was still in its infancy with her brother, Simon O’Connor. Eight years later, the Melbourne siblings sold the Sukin brand to BWX for $53 million. After the sale of Sukin, Alison had to stay out of the market for a few years due to a non-compete agreement and she had her third daughter, Eloise. When she was just four weeks old, Alison was diagnosed with breast cancer.

After three years, there came a time in her cancer journey where Alison gained the confidence to once again think creatively and long term. Soon after, the brand Alkira was born.

72| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

“I love that the industry is built around innovation and creativity and is ever evolving. There are so many brands and products that fill bathroom cabinets, each serving a purpose whether it’s functional or sensory. An industry that delivers experiences and empowerment is a fabulous industry to be a part of.”

WHAT KICK-STARTED YOUR ENTREPRENEURIAL PASSION?

“In my early 20’s I travelled around the world for four years. The freedom to choose and set my own agenda was where it all began.

I tired working a 9-5 job when I returned but it just made me miserable. I need freedom and the ability to create on my terms so I eventually took the leap and have never looked back.”

WHAT WAS THE MOST ‘UNUSUAL’ JOB YOU’VE HAD IN YOUR CAREER?

“In my early 20s I spent an American summer teaching kayaking and canoeing on the great lakes of Michigan. My first day of teaching was my first day in a canoe! Eventually I got the hang of it and ended up working with another Australian who remains one of my best friends today.”

WHAT LESSONS DID YOU LEARN FROM SUKIN THAT YOU APPLIED TO ALKIRA?

“Customer engagement is key to any brand’s success so we will continue to keep this top of mine when implementing strategies for Alkira. Our ability to listen to the consumer and be agile in our approach to new categories is key. We are not afraid to go instore and just LISTEN, WATCH and LEARN. This is the most valuable part of the creative and marketing process – understanding the customer experience and how we can engage with them on a daily basis in an informative and creative way.”

INFLUENCER

WHAT MAKES AUSSIE BRANDS UNIQUE?

“Australian brands can draw from the wonderful clean, green reputation it has worldwide and become market leaders in this space. Whether it’s in natural skincare, household cleaning, fashion, homewares, Australian brands can own the naturals and sustainability category and set the parameters for future consumer goods.”

WHAT ARE YOUR BRAND VALUES?

“We remain cruelty free, vegan, we eliminate known toxins and continue to be commit to reducing carbon emissions by being a NoCo2 business. I spoke with our friends at the Carbon Reduction Institute recently and they told me that we were instrumental in the success and longevity of their business as we were one of the first mass brands that partnered with them and helped to spread the important NoCo2 word. This makes me incredibly proud as I believe businesses large and small should take accountability for their footprint.”

WHAT’S IT LIKE WORKING WITH A FAMILY MEMBER?

top 5 tips

to create a successful brand 1. Clearly define your brand’s unique selling position and ensure all sales and marketing strategies loop back to compliment this unique position.

2. Be consistent with your messaging.

3. Customer engagement is key to your brand’s success. Understand your customer. Talk to them often and more importantly listen to them.

4. Create a brand community so that ultimately, your customer not only feels connected to the brand, but also to the broader brand community where they share the same values and interests.

5. Brands don’t sell themselves. You have to be prepared to pound the pavement, knock on doors and back your brand.

You’ll be rejected from time to time so learn to pick yourself up and continue on and sell, sell, sell.

WHAT ARE THE SHORT TERM PLANS FOR ALKIRA?

Aussie made

Alison’s

“Working with, and building a brand with my brother again was a no brainer. We share the same values and same passion for business growth. Our strengths differ as do our contributions to the business which has been a large part of our success. Simon is the more creative force behind the brand as he manages the creative, sales and marketing whereas I look after product development, operations and finance.”

“Launching a brand in the midst of a pandemic will present its own unique challenges so we’ll be guided by the market and consumer confidence. In the short term, our plan is to concentrate on building distribution and brand awareness which is an all-consuming challenge given the climate. The market has evolved since we launched Sukin so understanding the new parameters that surround social media marketing and executing considered campaigns in this space will be our primary focus.”

WHAT ARE THE LONG TERM PLANS FOR ALKIRA?

“Diversifying the range and exporting to various countries. Australia will always be our foundation, our home and our history. Taking our story to the world and opening up opportunities for people to experience a natural Australian skin care product is an exciting dream we wish to make reality.” www.alkiraskincare.com.au

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |73

How to Master the 5-MINUTE MAKEUP ROUTINE

74| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

ALL ABOUT THE BASE: SPF, EASY FOUNDATION AND CONCEALER

No matter how quick the makeup routine is, starting with SPF is essential. I love the Ultra Violette Queen Screen SPF 50+.

Then onto your foundation - I always recommend doing a colour match. To find your shade, match the foundation to your neck rather than your face. You want your face and neck to be the same colour.

Use a fail-safe formula, like lightweight foundations or a compact, and focus on oily areas and redness around the nose and chin. My favourites are Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay-In-Place Makeup and Dior Body & Face.

Buff out any uneven spots with a beauty blender. Next – give some glow! Warm up a creamy concealer - the Zoeva ones are amazing - between your fingers and tap it where needed. Tapping increases circulation around the eye area and helps wake up your skin and lightly apply under the eye area and working up towards the temple to give your face that natural lift.

ADDING COLOUR IS KEY TO COMPLETING YOUR COMPLEXION

For a realistic-looking, natural flush to the cheek, reach for a creamy blush - I love the RMS beauty ones. It will create a more youthful, fresh, seamless finish. Use your fingers to dot a tiny amount onto the apples of your cheeks and blend away any excess until it’s sheer. Pro tip: Do not apply directly to your face. People think that it’s going to be faster, but it’s easy to overapply.

Less is more, hands down! Just gentle tap on the back of the hands first. I always finish with a touch of serum-in-oil, like Sensori+, or glow drops on the cheekbones, bridge of the nose and cupid bow to give your face that healthy glow.

INFLUENCER

With the right products, you can hit snooze in the morning and spend those precious extra minutes in bed! Makeup expert Ross Andrewartha shares his top tips to create an incredible look in less time than you need to drink your morning coffee.

BROWS ARE EVERYTHING

Gel brow-grooming products add density and hold with just a few quick swipes.

Choose a shade that matches your current brow colour. Even if you have sparse eyebrows, a small amount of tinted gel brushed upward creates fullness and will keep them in place. A bonus: It gives your complexion a lift. I am a big fan of huge brows. Pro tip: if you are using a pencil or powder, always choose a colour two shades lighter than your brows so it acts as a subtle enhancement.

BRIGHTEN UP YOUR EYES

Shimmery champagne, peach, or taupe cream eye shadows are my thing - choose shades that are a bit brighter than your skin tone – to make your eyes look alert.

Dip your finger in the shadow, then sweep it over your lids, just up to the crease. Do not go higher - glitter will settle there. It’s a simple way to enliven your whole face.

Next, nuzzle a mascara wand at the base of your lashes, then jiggle and twirl it up toward your eyebrow for a long, ‘blow wave’ for the lashes. Diorshow Iconic Overcurl is amazing and the curled wand makes the application super easy.

By Ross Andrewartha, Chadstone’s Beauty Insider www.instagram.com/rossandrewartha

LOVE A LIP COLOUR PENCIL

A lip colour pencil is ideal when time is tight because it gives you control, which allows you to skip lip liner. Outline and fill in lips, then pat and blend with your finger for a soft yet skillful result. Pro tip: always keep your pencils sharpened and this step goes much quicker. If you are doing a bold color, you want it to be clean, but sometimes when it’s too sharp it looks pasted on. When you pat it on, it is more like a stain, but it still has definition. This is my favourite kind of lip and means you can eat and drink with confidence. Love the Clinique Chubby sticks.

For a realisticlooking, natural flush to the cheek, reach for a creamy blush - I love the RMS beauty ones. It will create a more youthful, fresh, seamless finish.

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |75

An open letter to all the cosmetic counter heroes

By Icy Ling

Dear cosmetic counter heroes, I sincerely hope you are well. Thanks to many of you for staying in your position during this crazy period. Sending my greatest appreciation of all your hard work.

I wanted to write this letter since day one of when social distancing was introduced. None of us predicted this to happen. But hey, let’s both give ourselves a pat on the backs and say: “We did well!”

During the lockdown, I spent almost every single day indoors on my own. I cried, I was confused and frustrated. But I also had a great time. I witnessed my beauty habits changing. I did pay attention to these differences. They may also apply to some of your clients. I hope this letter can help once they start to revisit you.

The most significant change was that I did expect more from each of my beauty products.

Luckily, I didn’t lose my job and financially I was not so affected. But when I didn’t have to meet people, I lost the drive to keep those steps I used to have or the passion to spend hours dressing up. Rather, I wanted things to be simple and easy, so I could shift my focus away from ‘being alone’. I kept only one La Prairie Skin Caviar Essence in Foundation on my dressing table and ‘locked’ the rest in my makeup wardrobe. It allowed my skin to breathe, but also brought out skincare benefits. Some days I only used one Pat McGrath Labs Mattetrance lipstick on my eyes, cheeks and lips. I enjoyed applying makeup with my fingers, and saved time without having to clean brushes. I shortened all my nails for housework and only used one layer of Chanel La Base, which also acts as a cuticle treatment. I never had to worry about a bold nail polish colour getting chipped after a week. I used heaps of hair masques instead of sprays or oils. I put my curler and straightener away and relied on my GHD Helios hairdryer. Guess what? I never realised so many beauty products could offer more than what their packaging told us. All I did was trial the best way and time to use them, so I could still look great for my Zoom meetings. The delivery guy was not sick of my face. And I did feel better and better each day, while working in front of my laptop, with nobody praising me on how flattering my makeup was.

Another change I noticed was around skin care. At the beginning of WFH, I went through the products’ ingredient lists and separated them into two different routines for morning and night. For the morning, I used less steps but focused on long lasting hydration, brightening and protection. At nighttime, I added more steps to my routine to nourish my skin and deliver

76| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

INFLUENCER repairing benefits with prevention to future damage. Towards the end of April, as the weather got colder, I added Avène Thermal Spring Water to both routines to sooth my skin. During the day I also sprayed Jurlique Rosewater Balancing mist on my face to keep my skin hydrated.

I felt reconnected with nature and being loved with its rosy scent. Yes, I could access jars and bottles 24-7, but I didn’t want to overindulge my skin or to create a habit that I’m unable to maintain after things are back to normal.

I was very strategic on ‘masking’. After I finished my overnight mask during the first month, I brought out all the mask sheets that I stocked for future travel plans. I used at least two mask sheets every week. I also tried the new Foreo UFO 2, a smart a mask facial treatment device, during this period. To me, Foreo masks are very economical, the app is quite engaging, and the LED lights helped with product absorption. I trust people will search for masks that are more affordable. I did find my skin more plumped the day after using the mask sheet and required less amount of skin care the next morning.

I am sure some of you have already started considering what and how to recommend to regular clients returning to you. Don’t be upset if they stopped buying the whole range from you like they used to. They may not be able to afford it, or their routine has changed like mine did.

Treat every one of your VIPs like a new customer when they come back to see you, rebuild the trust and make them feel confident about you and the products they are about to buy from you. Why not test the products again yourself and list at least three benefits of each? Share your tips learned from the past few months and demonstrate while having fun with your new and existing clients.

Remember, your personal touch and your beautiful smile are what people will never receive from online shopping.

Tough times come and go. We are always changing, no matter if we are forced to or not. Respect these changes. If we could not change the world around us, at least make a change within ourselves, in order to keep bringing joy and happiness to people around us. We can all be heroes.

Stay safe and stay well. Hope to see you soon!

Love, @icybutterfly

LET’S CHAT

I am writing this column each issue in esprit Magazine Australia for 2020. If you would like to share your success, you know where to find me. @icybutterfly

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |77

M I C H A E L’ S T O P T I P S O N

s s e c c u s o t s P ix s The

Michael Brown on why the COVID-19 pandemic has turned out to be a positive experience.

78| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

Well, what can I say? No-one could have predicted what we have just been through these past few months. But look how far we have come as a community.

I know for a lot of individuals, businesses, families, and our wallets the effect of COVID-19 has been tough, but I have also seen a great shift in the industry - a positive one.

I have had to up-skill and alter how I deliver beauty messages to my online audience, which I am all for.

Beauty was hit hard, especially makeup services and artists like myself, but I have also had a positive experience these past few months.

The pandemic has allowed me to revaluate career priorities and look deeper into my strengths and weaknesses when it comes to my business.

I think we all could have used a little ‘forced’ time out and I am hoping many of you, like myself, have really used this time wisely to either up-skill yourself in another area of

INFLUENCER

Whether you are a brand, beauty advisor, makeup artist or skin specialist, we all had to re-think how to keep our audience and adjusting messages to be supportive of the current situation.

Many went straight to online tutorials, which I really applaud, and I also moved to Instagram Live sessions and IGTV’s to engage, be present and make light of the situation.

At the end of the day, people turn to beauty to feel good and what better time to educate that message when a little pampering stress relief could be a godsend for so many?

For the younger makeup artists that I knew were struggling with the uncertainty, my biggest point was to up-skill. I have been in the industry 20 years, but I am always learning by watching other artists, brand tutorials, new product launches and general on-the-job learning. Perhaps there was an area of beauty or your business where you always wanted to gain more knowledge or techniques? What a perfect time to upskill, re-focus and make sure when everything is back in action, you are the best you can be.

AT-HOME ADVICE

What a perfect time to upskill, re-focus and make sure when everything is back in action, you are the best you can be.

beauty, caught up on the dreaded admin, adjusted your audience delivery tone and moved to online education/ tutorials (if you weren’t already) and to still be ‘present’ during these quieter, uncertain times we have just faced.

SHOW SUPPORT

Back in March, at the height of COVID-19 severity and uncertainty, I hosted an Instagram Live, with fellow celebrity makeup artist Chantelle Baker, to bring the community together - artists supporting artists. For so many the outbreak was a shock, it meant a loss of income, lack of creativity and therefore a big lack of self-worth with doubt about the security of our chosen workforce.

Our main message was to not hide away, dwell on the crisis and complain, as it was affecting everyone in some way. No one was alone and my top tip was to be present, as present as you can, to keep face and a feel of normality.

I wrote many articles and appeared on Channel 9’s Today Extra when I was in isolation about best home products/home application/techniques for things like skin care, hair treatments and lash extension replacements - you name it, I discussed it.

This does not mean the consumer will no longer use services anymore at retailers or salons. People still enjoy these little pampering experiences. But it shows we guided, educated, and engaged with our customers or in my case audience during a pandemic where some women were craving some beauty and a pandemic break in their lives.

I was present. I was engaging. I was positive and still delivering appropriately addressed content to assist in my own growth, but for my loyal audience and brand relationships.

Yes, things may be different for a while yet and some services we provide may be altered, but to be honest, it’s a good way forward, as we probably all were becoming a little complacent when it came to hygiene.

If I saw one more beauty advisor blow on a makeup brush in store to clean it (well, I won’t say) but wow. That really annoyed me as I found it so unprofessional.

JOB SECURITY

So many BA’s/artists who work for brands dream of only being freelance. I get it, I did too when I was permanent staff on the retail floor many years ago. But these brands can give and probably gave you some job security, plus will practice/teach you the highest of standards to assist in your long-term career.

Don’t underestimate the power of working for a larger corporation, for some, it was their saviour during this time, freelance or not.

But we need to strive to be back bigger than ever. So, upskill, access new requirements and standards. If anything, we will be busier long term, as we will be even more knowledgeable and practice higher standards of service. For me, this virus has made me very grateful for the work we do and to put an emphasis on caring more for all our clients.

THE SIX P WORDS – NOT PANDEMIC

The word pandemic to me in the end was not negative, but it gave me: • Patience • Re-ignited my Passion for beauty • Made me Pragmatic • Gave me Perseverance • Forced to me have a new Perspective • Ultimately, I never lost my Personality which is a big part of my career success anyway Know your six P words for success at any turn, you never know what could confront you around the corner.

By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |79

BRAND NEWS

Jo Malone Fragrance Layered Candle - a striking centrepiece, the new candle blends two of Jo Malone London’s mostloved home scents into a unique home accessory. The combination of mellow English pear and freesia with zesty lime basil and mandarin creates a tantalising, lively atmosphere. For a more sensual mood, dark and daring pomegranate noir is paired with flirtatious peony and blush suede. www.jomalone.com.au

ModelCo Lip Oil Hydrating Treatment - enriched with jojoba oil, this treatment will nourish and hydrate the lips.

This is just one of a menu of luscious lip textures from the luxe for less beauty brand. Also in the range are silky cream formulas to liquid mattes in a variety of nudes, pinks and peaches. Lips are the talking point but the collection is complemented with core products to create a flawless look, including the new Makeup Primer, a first for the affordable beauty brand. www.modelco.com

Morphe x Maddie Ziegler: The Imagination Collection - this collaboration is better than make believe. It’s a creative wonderland of colour. The Imagination Collection includes a 20-pan Artistry Palette, three multi-use Lip and Cheek Kits, and a luminous, dewy gloss stick. https://au.morphe.com

Garnier Organics Lavandin Night Cream – enriched with organic Lavandin essential oil and hyaluronic acid, this anti-ageing night cream is designed to assist in regenerating, firming and smoothing the skin. Lavandin is a regenerating property suitable for most skin types, even those with skin sensitivity.

The organic Lavandin used in the Garnier Organics range is ethically sourced from France. www.garnier.com.au

Ciencia Exeler8 – the Australian-made skincare brand celebrated their 12th anniversary on TVSN this year with the world exclusive launch of their latest product. Formulated with ground breaking skincare technology, Exeler8 is a powerful wrinkle reduction serum used for spot treatments of targeted lines and wrinkles to improve skin’s radiance and give a younger looking effect. www.itvsn.com.au

80| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

Sisley Phyto-Gloss and Phyto Poudre Compacte - photo-ready and incredibly fun, Le Phyto Gloss plumps up the lips and envelopes them in a beautiful shine. A nonsticky, shaping lipcare formula to hydrate and protect the lips that is available in 10 shades. The makeup compact formula incorporates three, ultra-emollient plant based active ingredients to lock in hydration and provide absolute comfort. The creamy and silky-soft texture glides onto the skin and instantly melts in and is available in 4 shades. www.sisley-paris.com.au

kotia Regenerating Night Cream - a revitalising night cream that gently hydrates the skin with the nourishing goodness of deer milk whilst vitamin C enhances skin radiance and improves the appearance of uneven skin tone while sleeping. www.kotia.com.au

Ellus & Krue Detoxifying Exfoliant - has been carefully curated with active ingredients that can assist with the removal of unwanted impurities, leaving skin feeling brighter and smoother. Formulated in collaboration with cancer and ageing scientist, Professor Derek Richard, every product sold by Ellus & Krue will support cancer and ageing research being conducted at the Cancer & Ageing Research Foundation. www.ellusandkrue.com.au

Clinique Get the Most Glow SOS Kit – all the hydration essentials for a glow-getting look. Set includes Moisture Surge Face Spray Thirsty Skin Relief, Moisture Surge 72-Hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator and Chubby Stick Sculpting Highlight in Hefty Highlight. Other SOS kits in the range include Beauty R & R, Girls Night Glow, Detox + Defend, Break Up With Breakouts and Post-Sun 101. www.clinique.com.au

Giorgio Armani Ecstasy Mirror – is the new, mirror-shine lacquer that delivers gloss, colour, and wear.

Available in 10 highshine, striking shades that that suit the nuances of every mood, from understated neutrals to modern dark reds, Ecstasy Mirror fuses maximum shine and intense colour in one single stroke. www.giorgioarmanibeauty.com.au

Pantene Micellar Rosewater Shampoo - as part of the Pro-V Micellar Series, the formula contains micelles that detox the scalp by naturally attracting the toxins and dirt in hair, without the need for rigorous rubbing of the scalp to minimise irritation or damage. Formulated with the hydrating Rose Gallica plant and Pantene’s Pro-Vitamin B5, the shampoo contains 0% silicones, parabens and dyes, the ultra-nourishing and gentle formula has been designed to restore strength, shine and smoothness. Also available is the accompanying conditioner. www.pantene.com.au

Weleda Feel Good Shower, Limited Edition - awaken the senses with the refreshing aroma of spicy ginger hues and zesty citronella. Plantbased surfactants cleanse without drying out the skin, while the lively summer fragrance makes for a great start to any day. www.weleda.com.au

BRAND NEWS

La Mer The ‘New’ Concentrate - renowned for its ability to visibly soothe, strengthen and stabilise delicate skin, The Concentrate is now new and improved. La Mer’s cultfavourite barrier-building serum is newly advanced with antioxidant power to deliver dual-strengthening benefits, all with the same sumptuous, velvety texture. Skin emerges stronger, more stable and visibly soothed. www.cremedelamer.com.au

Dr Lewinn’s Line Smoothing Complex Triple Action Day Defence - is like a drink of water for the skin. Formulated with a unique combination of millicapsules containing nourishing caviar extract, regenerating blackcurrant oil, super antioxidant Lipochroman-6, and moisturising vitamin E, suspended in a hydrating gel. Working to provide a moisture surge to the skin, this serum is clinically proven to increase skin hydration by up to 142% after just 20 minutes, according to a study done by Dr Lewinn’s. www.drlewinns.com.au

Marc Jacobs At Lash’d Lengthening and Curling Mascara - from the brand that brought you Velvet Noir Mascara, the new At Lash’d mascara has been designed for extreme length and curl, plus epic definition. At Lash’d is joined by a luxe limited gold edition collection of gilded eye-conic shadows and highliner hues. www.sephora.com.au

myClarins Re-Move Radiance Scrubbing Powder - this exfoliating powder removes impurities and leaves the complexion fresh and luminous. Built with a unique composition of plants (organic moringa, cranberry powder, rice powder and almond powder), the fine and delicate texture is mixed with water or My Clarins Re-Move Purifying Cleansing Gel to create a tailormade exfoliant. www.clarins.com.au

ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020 |81

INFLUENCER

Have you met...

SARAH LAIDLAW

By Michelle Ruzzene

Sarah Laidlaw started off as an apprentice hairdresser before becoming a triplethreat makeup, hair and fashion stylist.

She is now the hair and makeup director for Priceline and the hair director for Laud Magazine. Michelle finds out more from the creative superstar.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER JOURNEY?

“I started off as an apprentice hairdresser in 1990 training under the brilliant Benni Tognini. After I finished my apprenticeship, I was a fashion stylist for four years. After that I went back to doing hair (and makeup also by this stage) and worked on a decade of TV commercials, photoshoots and additional days on film. I made the move to Sydney in around 2009 and from that point worked predominantly in editorial and fashion advertising. It’s been a case of going where the wind blows for most of my career which seems to have worked so far. I’m now the hair and makeup director for Priceline and the hair director for Laud Magazine.”

HOW DO YOU REMAIN PASSIONATE ABOUT THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

“The passion is in the small rewarding moments - making a client happy, creating a beautiful look, upgrading someone’s selfconfidence. That moment when your client stands taller and you see the sparkle come into their eyes - that keeps the passion alive. The fashion side of beauty is constantly morphing into something else, so you can never get bored as there’s always something new to learn.”

BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOU HAVE RECEIVED?

“My mum always said that whatever you do, do your best at it.”

ADVICE FOR THOSE STARTING OUT IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

“It’s a really big industry. So, no particular advice other than find the parts of the industry you enjoy the most and try and do a lot of that.”

FIRST TOWN/PLACE YOU’RE DYING TO VISIT WHEN THINGS ARE BACK TO ‘NORMAL’?

“Like everyone I’d love to travel overseas on some kind of fabulous adventure. But the first place I’m dying to go is Brisbane to see my parents and close friends. I can’t wait to hug them.”

WHAT IS YOUR LIFE MOTTO?

“Hmmm, I don’t know if I have a motto really. I guess it’s more a case of being grateful for how lucky I am to be living in this era, living in a safe country and being able to choose my own path.”

82| ESPRIT AUSTRALIA SPRING 2020

FAVE PLAYLIST OR PODCAST WHILE IN LOCKDOWN?

“The Woo Woo ‘Verse by Lynette Arkadie and Kirileigh Lynch. It’s all about energy, the universe and soul wisdom. It’s like following the White Rabbit into Wonderland then bringing back all the things you discovered.”

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF SOCIAL MEDIA?

“Your Instagram account can be like a personally curated insight into your work. I love that it’s more relaxed than a website and you can post behind the scenes alongside published images and it all makes sense together. You can reach new clients who may never have come across your work any other way, and you can find the most talented people all over the world. I’ve discovered the most incredible artists, musicians, costumers and creators.”

WHAT ARE THE DRAWBACKS?

“Random comments from horrible people can destroy lives. When you look at the number of suicides directly related to trolling, it’s very, very sad. I don’t like that a lot of people base their personal worth on how many people like a photo. It’s insane.” www.sarahlaidlaw.com www.instagram.com/sarahlaidlaw

FROM THE NIGHTTIME SKINCARE EXPERT:

Unlock the beauty of night.

New Revitalizing Supreme+ Night Wake up looking radiant, morning after morning.

Tonight, indulge in this rich, ultra-nourishing multi-action creme. Firms and significantly reduces the look of lines while you sleep.

REVITALIZE with 2X concentrated Moringa Extract. It helps skin boost natural collagen.

NOURISH with a 2X super-dose of Hyaluronic Acid for intense, 24-hour hydration.

REAWAKEN a fresh morning glow with Sea Lavender Flower Extract.

© 2019 Estée Lauder Inc.

NEW

esteelauder.com.au

Hair EXPERTS IN

BIOLOGY

Formulated by hair biologists, ĂŠvolisÂŽ Professional is the only scientifically validated hair care range that targets the hair life cycle to deliver your BEST hair.

PROMOTE - Grow longer hair, faster - Dry or damaged hair

- Breakage or split ends - Post-partum hair loss

Interested in becoming a stockist?

Contact Gary McCaw on 0434 880 442 or email mccaw@advangen.com.au

www.evolisproducts.com.au