Page 1





How to Fix Your Lifts

In Search of Wild Alaska MUST-HAVE

DIGITAL CAMERAS Train Like a World Cup Soccer Star



SHELTER ON THE GO The StormLine Stretch Rain Shell combines highly stretchable fabric for ultimate mobility with our BD.dryâ„¢ waterproof/breathable/windproof solution to provide reliable protection when the weather breaks. TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK, CHILE




66 ON THE COVER: Josh Brolin

The Antihero

Mobley on March 7, 2018, McMillen for the Wall Group. Grooming

guy in Hollywood.

JUNE 2018

Production by Nenneker Productions. Brolin wears shirt by Ralph Ralph Lauren.



18 Dispatch

24 Food & Drink The 19 best hard-to-find cocktail bars in the country.

52 Books Upending long-held myths about the Amazon and exploring why the region remains mired in turmoil.

53 Seal of Approval NASCAR’s Jimmie Johnson talks bikes, kicks, and other obsessions.


55 DSLRs 34 Profile One surgeon’s quest to heal children in the world’s worst war zones.

Take your photography to the next level— without breaking the bank.

58 Kitchen Tech 50 Q&A Investigative journalist Seymour Hersh on Watergate, Russian hacking, and what’s wrong with the media today.


JUNE 2018

Say goodbye to burned food—new computer-controlled induction cooktops are about to revolutionize the way you cook and eat. MEN’S JOURNAL

62 E-Bikes These five drop-bar speed demons will help you conquer brutal uphills and headwinds.

64 Utility Bags Five fanny packs (yes, fanny packs) that are perfect for gear.


95 A World Cup preview, the truth about probiotic supplements, and veggiecentric cookbooks—plus, Mark Wahlberg shares his fitness secrets.


112 Billy Bob Thornton The Goliath star on the virtue of ignorance and marrying out of self-defense.


On the set of Yellowstone, a new series starring Kevin Costner that explores the contemporary American West.


Letters Great to see John Prine [“The Ballad of John Prine”] in the April issue. He’s one of the last great American musical storytellers, who found his own sweet spot between folk and country. And anyone who can rhyme “child actor” with “wind chill factor” gets a big thumbs-up in my book. Here’s hoping his health stays well enough for more tours and new LPs. JOEL HASKARD ST. PAUL

HIT JOB After reading “The Boss Strikes Back” [February 2018], I am a little disappointed. It’s obvious that you know nothing about this subject or organized crime. If you did, you would not have given this dirtbag—and that’s being kind—a platform to express his views. As a retired detective familiar with this individual, I know your magazine should not have given him any attention at all. It’s obvious he has

an ax to grind, and you helped him do it. That was very, very poor decision-making on the part of your editorial staff. GENE SMITH NEW YORK CITY

MONKEY BUSINESS I enjoyed the story on Rwandan gorillas [“Up in the Mist,” April 2018]. Mountain gorillas are the only great ape experiencing a population increase. This is largely

due to intensive protection efforts coupled with community engagement, thanks to revenue from gorilla tourism. This success story is not easily replicated for Africa’s other great apes—chimpanzees and bonobos. These species are more difficult to habituate to human presence and often live in inaccessible, poorly governed, sometimes dangerous regions. Alternative funding mechanisms remain indispensable to safeguard their habitat. BAS HUIJBREGTS AFRICAN SPECIES MANAGER, WORLD WILDLIFE FUND WASHINGTON, D.C.

CONTACT US: TWITTER @mensjournal FACEBOOK MensJournal INSTAGRAM @mensjournal EMAIL SEND LETTERS to MEN’S JOURNAL, 4 New York Plaza, New York, NY 10004 Letters become the property of Men’s Journal and may be edited for publication. SUBSCRIBER SERVICES Go to Subscribe • Renew • Report Missing Issues • Pay Your Bill • Change Your Address


JUNE 2018


FOOD FOR THOUGHT I agree that sleep deprivation can lead to poor diet [“Sweet Dreams,” April 2018]. As you get sleep deprived, a warning bell is set off: The brain is wondering why it’s awake, so it produces the stress hormone cortisol to give you instant energy. But the brain does not like extra cortisol, so it sends out a signal to produce serotonin, through cravings for high-sugar, high-fat foods. Those “comfort foods” literally make you feel good by producing serotonin! DR. MICHAEL BREUS MANHATTAN BEACH, CA

MJ ASKS: What’s Your Favorite Adventure in the USA?

Can rough, knobby limestone create a silky smooth Cabernet? The limestone bedrock in Paso Robles stresses the vines, creating more concentrated tannins and exceptionally smooth Cabernets.

© 2018 JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery LLC, Paso Robles, CA. All Rights Reserved. JUSTIN and HJJVTWHU`PUNSVNVZHYL[YHKLTHYRZVM1<:;05=PUL`HYKZ >PULY`33*VYP[ZH SPH[LZ1=

Exceptional from every angle.

Letter From the Editor What was your most memorable road trip? “The Great Escape” (page 74) features nine very different approaches to a great road trip—whether it’s for food, adventure, or just a chance to get away from it all. Here, MJ staffers share their favorite blacktop adventures. DAVID SCHLOW, CREATIVE DIRECTOR Portland to Santa Monica: We drove down the Pacific Coast Highway, saw the redwoods, stopped by Big Sur and Hearst Castle, then arrived in L.A. for some sweet beach action. LARRY KANTER, DEPUT Y EDITOR I spent a summer hitchhiking around Alaska. We got rides from two kinds of people—born-again Christians and serious drug users. I learned to love them both.

how many milestones in life are tied to an epic road trip. I can remember that f irst taste of real freedom, driving with pals from my hometown in New Jersey to Saratoga Springs, New York, for a Lollapalooza concert. (We slept in a church parking lot.) And that ultimate guys’ spring break trip from Michigan to New Orleans, when manic caffeinefueled nighttime miles had us all convinced the car’s stereo was possessed by demons. Or when my now wife and I hit the road for Chicago with no plan and no idea if we even really liked each other. More recently, we took the kids to hidden beaches along the Rhode Island coast, stopping at every single ice cream stand—in between fighting for control of the radio. (Spoiler alert: Dad’s music lost out.) The road is not only ingrained in our collective American culture, it’s part of our personal narratives. The June issue pays homage to that idea—and hopefully reminds us all to keep the motor running. T’S INCREDIBLE


GREG EMMANUEL Chief Content Officer


JUNE 2018

MARJORIE KORN, SENIOR EDITOR My grandma is my favorite travel companion. In 2009, Gaga and I made a two-day trip from Chicago to Cheyenne, Wyoming, where I was moving for a job. We stopped in Lincoln, Nebraska, where she’d last visited as a girl during the Depression. There were no big talks or revelations. Mostly we joked around and listened to NPR and ate the endless supply of healthy snacks she’d packed. J.R. SULLIVAN, SENIOR EDITOR The summer after my freshman year of college, a dozen friends and I rented a 12-seater van and spent a week driving between swimming holes and cliff-jumping spots in the mountains of eastern Tennessee and western North Carolina. We slept in hammocks, ate next to nothing, got lost for hours down one-lane dirt roads, fractured bones, and, ultimately, had a blast. KEITH BEARDEN, RESEARCH CHIEF My only memorable road trip was hitchhiking to punk rock shows from Connecticut to Rhode Island and Boston as a teen. Nobody tried to murder me, but on the way to a Dickies show in snowy January, a coked-up school principal grilled me for the entire ride, telling me I’d never make it through adulthood with so little personality. JOHN LONSDALE, SENIOR EDITOR, MJ.COM My first time in California, my girlfriend and I rented a Jeep through the app Turo, took the top down, and hit the Pacific Coast Highway, stopping for food at Neptune’s Net and a break in the sand at El Matador State Beach. MEN’S JOURNAL


Ethan Osness balances on a red-rock formation in Pioneer Park, a mountainbiking and climbing hot spot in southwestern Utah, outside St. George.

JUNE 2018

MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S JOURNAL

photograph by AMY OSNESS

Man in the Moon UTSIDE ST. GEORGE, Utah, at the edge of the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve—a public wilderness teeming with Gila monsters, Mojave Desert tortoises, mountain lions, and rattlesnakes—there’s a 52-acre red-rock expanse known as Pioneer Park. It was here, in the mid-1800s, that Mormon settlers sought shelter from the heat, relaxing in the shade of the clifs. And it was here, one November evening more recently, that photographer Amy Osness captured her 19-year-old son, Ethan, biking the trails by moonlight. To get the photo, “I had to anticipate where the sun was setting at the same time the moon was rising,” says Osness, who also mountain bikes. A month prior, she’d missed a ST. GEORGE chance at a similar photo, during another full moon. “I was too close,” she says. “I realized that I needed to be about a half-mile away to get what I wanted.” Though the photo was a first for her, she and Ethan regularly bike after sunset. Compared with day rides, “it’s more exciting, and it makes UTAH you feel like you’re going a lot faster than you are,” she says. “All the same trails you normally ride during the day become new and different.” —J.R. SULLIVAN



JUNE 2018


Dublin Days The Irish capital has it all—rich history, cinematic scenery, killer beer, and restaurants that rival those in any European city. Here’s how to sample it all, in a single long weekend. by ADAM ERACE



SOUTH DUBLIN Most f lights from the U.S. land in the morn-

The street scene in Dublin’s Temple Bar district.


ing at Dublin’s international airport. The Airlink Express f leet of turquoise doubledecker buses gets you into the city quickly and cheaply. Cabs also are plentiful and reasonably priced. Head to the Merrion Hotel, a handsome and centrally located base camp in South Dublin, the city’s well-trodden tourist zone south of the River Liffey. It’s a fiveminute walk to Dublin’s central park, St. Stephen’s Green—and, more important, Hatch & Sons, a cozy basement cafe in the Little Museum of Dublin. On tables fit together like a Tetris board, Ireland’s major food groups


Dublin’s relatively compact size, proximity to the airport (20 minutes with no traffic) and user-friendly public transportation collaborate to get you into the city quickly, then out of it on adventures, like the wild treks O’Doherty leads in his hometown. Here’s how to taste it all in one four-day trip.

Everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on a much longer leash here. Wy om i n g i s w i d e - op e n p o s s i bi l it y. You n e v e r f e e l f e n c e d i n , t i e d d ow n or re s t r a i n e d i n a ny w ay. S o y ou c a n bre a k f re e a n d f i n d t h e c l a r it y t h at b e c k on s , f rom r u g g e d m ou nt a i n t o t r a n qu i l l a k e t o m e a n d e r i n g t r a i l . Fre e d om i s w a it i n g . Wh atâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s h o l d i n g y ou b a c k ?


HOWTH Every half-hour, the northbound DART train disgorges passengers from Dublin onto the marina at Howth, the literal end of the line. Visitors come to Howth for its famous Cliff 016

JUNE 2018

Walk, a narrow 3.7-mile trail that looks like it was a carved out of the vertical bluffs with a giant box cutter. O’Doherty’s company, Shane’s Houth Hikes, hits the vertiginous walk but also goes off-road—much deeper into the land he’s been exploring all his life, including the famed Fairy Trail, “whereon a great colony of other-world creatures travel nightly from the hill to the sea and home again,” according to Irish poet W.B. Yeats. To be sure, you’re more likely to encounter the occasional jogger or dog walker than nocturnal sprites, but the terrain’s mystic atmosphere can hotwire the imagination. Even in the dead of winter, the forest is dense and tropically green and alive. When you emerge from the tunnellike woods onto the barren summit of Muck Rock, sunlight explodes hard, as if you were walking out of a dark theater. From t he top of Muck Rock, How th stretches out below. The land is shaped like a heavy teardrop, barely three blocks across at its narrowest point, where Dublin Bay and the Irish Sea rush in and recede with the tides. It’s not hard to see why H.G. Wells called it “the finest view west of Naples.” The ideal way to re-acclimate to sea level is at East Café Bar on Howth Harbor—where, as it happens, O’Doherty’s son, Zack, waits tables. It’s a warm spot with nautical decor and blackboard specials set in the former wine cellar of the MacManus family’s ritzy King Sitric, one of Ireland’s oldest restaurants. Thaw out with coffee and the most f lavorful seafood chowder. The ivory-colored soup is loaded with local haddock smoked on-site and is so good, it’s worth catching the train to Howth just to devour a big steaming bowl. MEN’S JOURNAL

From top: A stone cross, carved in traditional Irish style; savory pies at North Dublin’s Love Supreme; the brightly painted State Apartments, Dublin Castle.


NORTH DUBLIN “North Dublin is def initely different from what you’d find on the South Side,” says Ken Flood, co-owner of Love Supreme, a tidy cafe in Stoneybatter, the North’s coolest neighborhood. “Ten years ago it was considered kind of


gather in earthy ceramics: melt-in-yourmouth smoked local salmon, third-wave coffee, and grainy brown soda bread with gold grass-fed butter. After breakfast, head upstairs, where the eccentric museum’s expert guides lead tours on Dublin history. The historical crash course continues at Dublin Castle, the 13th-century fortification that was the seat of British power until Irish independence in 1922. The castle’s regal State Apartments includes a gold-and–purple velvet throne built specially for King George IV in 1821. Architecture buffs will want to see the adjacent Chapel Royal, with its stained glass windows, vaulted ceilings, and moody Gothic details. For dinner, you’ll f ind Forest & Marcy 15 minutes from the hotel, on a curving terrace lined with brick Victorian homes. At the far end of the matchstick dining room, chef Ciaran Sweeney plates inspired combinations like duck prosciutto, roasted sunchokes, and fuchsia canoes of Treviso radicchio, with f lows of natural wine, Biggie and TLC complementing. A decade ago, Forest & Marcy couldn’t have existed in Dublin. Now it—and affordable, idiosyncratic, chef-driven restaurants like it—are solidifying Dublin’s status as one of Europe’s great cities for eating.

but a game-changing gastropub that opened in 2010. Past the original bar, a short f light of stairs walks up to a rear dining room furnished with chunky wood tables covered with local-cheese plates and venison meatballs. You could stay here all night exploring the beer list: a dry-hopped sour from County Wexford here, a crispy pils from the cliffs of Sligo there. Overindulge? Mulligan’s rents a cozy f lat upstairs.


BRAY rough, but now it’s full of new young people, which means a lot of new interesting businesses are opening up.” Grab a baked sausage roll and pourover—they call it filter coffee in Ireland—and make your way to the southeast gate of Phoenix Park, which at 1,700 acres is the largest enclosed urban park in Europe. Renting wheels from Phoenix Park Bikes, a 10-minute walk from the gate, is a great way to explore the biodiverse landscape of castle-studded gardens, savannas, and wetlands. Be on the lookout for the park’s resident herd of fallow deer. Emerge from Phoenix Park hungry and head over to L. Mulligan Grocer, not a market

The southbound DART—the same train you take to Howth but in the opposite direction—hugs the coast as it carries you across the County Dublin line into County Wicklow. Get off at Bray, a seaside suburb in the foothills of the Wicklow Mountains and Wicklow National Park—50,000 conserved acres of featherbed bogs, pine forests, and lakes formed by ancient glaciers. Commit to a daylong hike, or just skip right to the largest waterfall in Ireland, a nearly 400-foot cascade on the Powerscourt Estate, a country mansion that dates back to the 1700s. (Space is limited, so admission should be booked in advance.) You’ll walk through the four miles of gardens and woods on the way to the falls leav-

Top: L. Mulligan Grocer Pub. Left: A fallow buck in Phoenix Park.


Climbing at Muckross


The New Frontier The new series Yellowstone, which follows a seventh-generation family struggling to keep its ranch afloat, may be the closest thing to capturing the ever-threatened real-world West. by JOSH EELLS



JUNE 2018

scared her off when she was 14. It doesn’t help that the horse she’s chosen to ride, Pistol, is the wildest and least-broken one in the stable. And according to the script, it’s going to throw her. Well, not her, exactly. Sheridan calls action, and Reilly’s stunt double mounts the horse, which promptly charges a fence and bucks her off. (“You don’t really have to train a horse to buck,” one of the wranglers explains. “They kind of do it naturally. You just don’t train ’em not to.”) Sheridan calls cut, but the stuntwoman is slow to get up. She sliced her hand on some ice in the corral when she hit the ground, and now she’s bleeding and in need of stitches. Someone takes her to the hospital, MEN’S JOURNAL

Kevin Costner, above, plays the patriarch of a Montana ranching family in Yellowstone.

where it’s determined that there’s no nerve damage or broken bones. Still, it’s a scary reminder of the risks out here. Even when it’s make-believe, this land is dangerous. “If you live in the country, you’re going to meet someone who dies on a horse, who dies in a fall,” says Sheridan, who grew up on a cattle ranch in central Texas. “Someone’s going to get mauled. It’s the small-town equivalent to texting on your phone when you’re walking through a crosswalk. It’s just gonna happen.”


to want to watch this,” Taylor Sheridan says. “This is gonna be interesting.” It’s a cold winter day in the snowy Bitterroot Mountains of western Montana, and Sheridan—the screenwriter of Sicario and Hell or High Water and writer-director of Wind River—is on the set of Yellowstone, the action-drama series he’s writing and directing, premiering this month on Paramount Network. For this scene, a character played by actress Kelly Reilly (True Detective) is about to get on a horse for the first time in years—not since a childhood tragedy OU’RE GOING




The Apple® iPhone® App graphic and logo are registered trademarks of Apple, Inc. Google Play® is a trademark of Google, Inc.


ALPINERX SMART OUTDOORS No Charging Required: 2+ Years Battery Power Temperature + UV indicator + Barometer + Altitu Weather Forecast + Connected GPS + Compass 100M/300FT Water-Resistant

Yellowstone stars Kevin Costner as John Dutton, the grizzled patriarch of the Yellowstone Dutton Ranch, the largest contiguous ranch in the U.S., which borders the eponymous national park. Dutton faces a host of competition, including scheming politicians, greedy land developers, and a rival Native American tribe, all of whom threaten his ranching dynasty. For the cast and crew, including Costner, it was important to portray the struggles accurately. “We don’t know a lot about modern-day ranching,” says Costner. “We know how to order off a menu, but we don’t understand what brought it to the restaurant. The fight of the rancher, like the fight of the farmer, is just something that somehow escapes us. But there’s a real life going on 365 days a year.” a fixture of film since the earliest days of the medium. The Great Train Robbery, in 1903, about a crew of bandits who stick up a locomotive, essentially created the western movie genre and helped ignite America’s fascination with cowboys and the frontier. More than 100 years later, prestige dramas such as The Son (AMC) and Godless (Netflix) have continued to mine the Old West for inspiration, regurgitating many of the same tropes of gunslingers and range life. Though there’s no shortage of period pieces about the region, Hollywood has largely failed to capture it as it exists today—as a place that’s still hardscrabble and fiercely independent but also grappling with modern economic and social issues along with the rest of the coun-


try. And that’s what makes Yellowstone, set in contemporary times, so striking. Anyone who has spent enough time in places like Aspen or Jackson or Livingston in the past decade will no doubt recognize the backdrop of the show: Californians buying up land for vanity ranches, thereby pricing out locals; microbrew-loving hipsters invading sleepy mountain towns; oil and gas companies bringing in money and jobs but destroying a down-home culture. To Sheridan, the themes of the show are as grand as its Rocky Mountain views. “It’s about the conquest of land and the changing West,” he says. By splitting his time between where

Wes Bentley plays Jamie Dutton, the son of John Dutton (Costner).

JUNE 2018


fect ranch on which to film. They found it—Montana’s Chief Joseph Ranch, above.

the old way of life is disappearing. Meanwhile, more and more tourists and outsiders are pouring in. “Now people have second jobs and do this as a lifestyle as opposed to a business,” Sheridan says. In time, the novelty of ranching will fade for them, he suspects. Ranching is hard work, and “people don’t like real hard lifestyles.” This sort of conflict is what Sheridan hopes to document in Yellowstone. “We’ve seen the struggling farmer, but we haven’t seen the big business of ranching, like as an epic,” he says. “I wanted to take 19th-century issues and kind of slam ’em into the 21st century.” When Paramount decided to make the show, Costner was Sheridan’s first call. “It was Kevin or bust for this,” he says. Costner’s character is deeply f lawed, which Sheridan finds compelling. “There’s also a certain virility to him,” he says. “He’s in his 60s, yet he still feels like he can whip you in a fight. That was an important balance for this character.” But, in some ways, the ranch is the true star of the show. The team searched for months before landing on the Chief Joseph Ranch, a 150-acre spread that stands in for Dutton’s place. Located in the Bitterroot Valley, it’s miles from Yellowstone park, but it’s perhaps just as wild. “I’ve gone down several rivers that Lewis and Clark went down in canoes myself,” says Costner, who owns a 160-acre ranch outside Aspen, Colorado, “and it doesn’t get any richer than the Bitterroot Valley. You can’t be in the Bitterroot without thinking it must have looked like the Garden of Eden.” Chief Joseph Ranch, as Dutton’s HQ, is replete with horse trailers and Dodge quad cabs and lots of weather-beaten dudes in Carhartts and boots. Sheridan even brought some of his own horses from Wyoming. “I didn’t want some half-broke horses the actors couldn’t ride,” he says. Authenticity is a chief concern for Sheridan. “He wanted very specif ic guns, very



The crew looked for months for the per-

Costner, center, and his fictional crew of ranch hands on the set of Yellowstone.



and off), says he had to work to learn how to ride cutting horses, like they do on the ranch. “I’ve seen [Sheridan] not be happy with something and go out and buy it himself, whether it’s a horse or it’s clothes,” he says. “He cares about this project deeply, and he’ll dig into his own pocket to make something right.”

particular saddles,” says the prop master, Ian Roylance. “We had nine saddles custommade, $6,000 each, then olded them up with dirt so they looked real.” Sheridan even sent the actors down the river with guides to teach them how to f ly-f ish, and held a three-day “cowboy camp” in the mountains with pack mules for the actors playing ranch hands. The effort has paid off, he says. “It looks real on camera, and the actors feel immersed in the world.”

THE NEXT MORNING, there’s a grizzly bear on the set. His name is Tag. He’s an 800-pound captive-born six-year-old who’s been trained to rear up, lie down, shake trees, and hit his mark—all in exchange for rump scratches and bites of rotisserie chicken. Tag has a walk-on cameo in the scene they’re filming today. In it, two tourists have strayed from a hiking trail and fallen over a cliff, where they now precariously cling as Rip, the head wrangler of the Dutton Ranch (Cole Hauser) attempts to pull them to safety with a lasso. The catch is, Rip, in turn, is being menaced by a grizzly (Tag) who doesn’t appreciate the encroachment on his territory. The moment plays into Sheridan’s idea that the West is becoming a theme park for people who don’t understand the land. The scene was inspired by several real incidents in which newcomers unwittingly put themselves in harm’s way. “It’s great for people to come see [the park],” Sheridan says. “But once a year, somebody’s going to put their kid on a buffalo and try to take a picture of it, and that guy’s going to get gored.” On a recent visit to the park, he watched a crowd of people stand 30 feet from a grizzly while a warden struggled to keep them back. “This is an animal that contests its place on the food chain with us, openly,” Sheridan says. “And someone’s like, ‘Oh, it looks friendly!’ ” He chuckles. “It’s interesting how disconnected we’ve become from the natural world.” Q

Filmmakers prepare to shoot a helicopter rounding up cattle on the fictional Dutton ranch, in Montana.

“On many shows you feel like you’re faking the whole time,” says Jefferson White, who plays another cowboy. “But here, all the work that you’d usually be doing in your imagination is done for you by a real-ass mountain.” Even Costner, who has done his share of shooting and riding in life (both on camera MEN’S JOURNAL

JUNE 2018



get your hands on a truly excellent piece of f ish, remember these three words: Less is more. That’s the ethos of crudo—literally, Italian for “raw.” Serving fresh f ish with few frills “really lets the product shine,” says Peter Juusola, a partner at Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co., a restaurant and fish market in Brooklyn. Home cooks tend to shy from raw seafood. But there’s no reason to fear crudo (not to be confused with its South American cousin, ceviche, in which the fish is “cooked” in the acidity of fresh citrus.) You just need to follow a couple of simple rules. First and foremost: Find a trustworthy fishmonger. “Ask for the freshest, best stuff they have,” Juusola says. “And tell them what you plan to do with it.” Then slice your fillets thinly against the grain. “Otherwise,” he says, “you won’t have a tender bite; you’ll have a chewy bite.” From there, the possibilities are endless. You’re looking for a balance between bright acidity, unctuous fat, and some crunch. It can be as simple as the olive oil, lemon, sea salt, and chopped chives. For extra texture, add slices of fennel, cucumber, or radishes. For more fat, chopped avocado. For an Asian touch, drizzle with sesame oil and soy sauce, and toss with chopped hot chilies. This basic recipe can get you started. But the most important factor, Juusola says, is not to overthink things. As long as the fish is superfresh, he says, “it’s almost impossible to mess it up.”




The Raw Deal photograph by BEN DEARNLEY

Life’s Bold moMents calL for a bold BEer. AlL Day IPA. KeEp yOUR tasTe satiSfied while kEeping Your senSes ShArP.


AR L B S •

• T HE B








A Cocktail Bar on Every Corner Craft cocktails used to be a city thing, largely the province of bearded barkeeps in places like Williamsburg, Portland, and L.A. No more. America’s bartending renaissance has hit peak booze, with mixologists cranking out creative concoctions in even the most unlikely locations, from the coast of Maine to a ghost town in Colorado. With that in mind, here are the 19 best hidden cocktail bars in the country. by St. John Frizell




Ice Plant


Tucked away in an industrial pocket of colonial St. Augustine, this building supplied ice to local shrimpers in the early 20th century, well before new co-owners Ryan Dettra and Patricia McLemore lovingly restored it with a vintage motif, using furniture and fixtures they rescued from salvage yards up and down the East Coast. They’re also making ice there again, massive 300-pound blocks that are broken down with chainsaws, then carved into spheres or diamonds or shaved into snow for use in the bar’s cocktails—which will help cool down any north Florida afternoon.

The drink program of this tiny bar gets its inspiration— and foraged ingredients—from the Maine woods. “We want to take the landscape around us and reflect it in the drinks,” says owner Michael Jack Pazdon. It works. The most popular drink is the Dame Shrub, which incorporates gin and Maine hemlock (the evergreen, not the poison). This year, Pazdon plans to forage more “seaweed and intertidal things,” like dulse and glasswort. “I grew up here, hanging out with the old-timers by the docks, walking in the woods, figuring out what you can eat and can’t,” says Pazdon. “To bring all that full circle, and make a place that my neighbors can be proud of, well, that’s pretty heartwarming.”


PRO TIP Put your name in at one of the local


JUNE 2018

Wallingford Dram


ORDER The Florida Mule, a spin on the Moscow Mule, mixed with Florida Cane Vodka, which is made in the St. Augustine Distillery next door.




for acts en route to New York or Philly. PLAN AHEAD Make a reservation online—with only 17 tables, the club fills up quickly on weekends.


Brix & Rye

GREENPORT, NEW YORK Walking through the former whaling village of Greenport, on the far end of Long Island, it wouldn’t be hard to miss Brix & Rye, located beneath the wildly popular 1943 Pizza Bar, in the basement of a colonial-style house. But downstairs, behind a narrow wooden bar, owner Evan Bucholz holds court, slinging boozeforward cocktails like the Backsliding Presbyterian (bourbon, Campari, lemon, and ginger) to both summer tourists and salty East Enders. When the bar gets crowded, sneak up to the parlor level for peoplewatching on Main Street and a game of shuffleboard. PRO TIP You can order a pie from upstairs (get the Clams Casino) to be delivered to the bar.



The Dogwood

CRESTED BUTTE, COLORADO Tucked away in an 1891 miner’s cabin on a side street, the Dogwood has been expanding the cocktail horizons of locals and tourists for nearly 10 years. With a main bar up front and small rooms, each with their own subtle design, in back, everything about the place feels cozy, including the excellent cocktails, like the whiskey and pear drink Au Pear. On Thursdays, townies come out for locals’ night (happy hour all evening), and the timber beams strain under the weight of all the fun.


GET INKED ORDER Down the Hatch, a margarita with Hatch chile, orange, and peach.

restaurants, like the Wallingford Dram’s sister spot, Anju Noodle Bar, before grabbing a cocktail. Kittery’s little restaurants fill up quickly in season.




PLAY DJ Dust off your records, because on Wednesday nights guests can spin their own LPs.


Cardinal Spirits

BLOOMINGTON, INDIANA State law prohibits the bar at the Cardinal Spirits distillery from serving beer, or anything else not made


JUNE 2018

ORDER Anything that features Cardinal’s Lake House Spiced Rum, like the juicy, spicy Point Break.


The Bookstore

BETHLEHEM, PENNSYLVANIA Behind a gray metal door on the south side of Bethlehem awaits a speakeasy like you’ve always imagined: red velvet curtains, gilded mirrors, servers in flapper dresses, and good-enough-for-Granddad cocktails. Brother-sister team Linda and Sean Barsik opened the Bookstore in 2008, the early days of the cocktail revolution, and it took a few years for their joint to catch on in the beer-soaked Rust Belt, but now it’s thriving. With live music three nights a week, the Bookstore is also a legit jazz club, and a popular stop MEN’S JOURNAL


Rocket Surgery

TRAVELERS REST, SOUTH CAROLINA Andy O’Mara moved to Travelers Rest planning to relocate his custom-canoe factory. Instead, he and his partner, Loren Frant, opened a pizza place and, last year, this friendly little bar. The first-time restaurateurs have made this small town in the Blue Ridge FROM TOP: THE ATOMIC BAR & LOUNGE; MATTHEW BLUM/THE BOOKSTORE

It’s taken time for even Palm Springs natives to find this joint, hidden behind a velvet curtain at the city’s institutional steakhouse, Mr. Lyons. A side room of the restaurant was recently renovated with a decor that’s something like 19th-century chophouse meets Rat Pack. Swingin’ Palm Springs was overdue for a cocktail renaissance, and with options like the gin-heavy Backhand, Seymour’s is leading the way.

on premises—which sounds like a death sentence for a business in a quintessential college town like Bloomington. But a loyal crowd of coeds, profs, and townies fill the bar’s sprawling deck for the simple cocktails using house spirits that average $8 a pop. Also, the bartenders are wildly creative—they hosted a “Tiki Tuesday” night for months before they had access to rum. Now Cardinal makes two.

foothills a dining destination, and Rocket Surgery the unofficial cocktail capital of upstate South Carolina. Andy’s cousin Casey mans the bar, convincing locals to break away from the regular bourbon-and-beer rut with drinks like the Gabrielle, a gin-based ode to spring with gentian and elderflower liqueurs and honey.


PRE-DRINK FUN If you’re in nearby Greenville, grab a bike and hop on the Swamp Rabbit Trail, a biking path converted from an abandoned railway. It’s an easy 10 miles on rolling hills from downtown to the front door of Rocket Surgery.






MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE In true speakeasy fashion, this dark Prohibitionthemed bar requires a password for entry—just pick up the phone at the top of the stairs behind the glass doors at 815 Elm Street and give the magic word. Will they turn you away should you forget it? “No,” says co-owner Ryan McCabe, “but it does add a little intrigue to the experience.” McCabe opened 815 with veteran bartender and tattoo model Sarah Maillet in 2015, and they’ve been cranking out cocktails like the No Chance for Snow—made with rum, pear juice, and coconut water—ever since.

Evan Bucholz, the master of ceremonies at Brix & Rye, in Greenport, New York, serves this hardhitting nightcap.

This is the most popular cocktail at Rocket Surgery, in Travelers Rest, South Carolina.

Every drink at Birmingham’s Atomic Bar & Lounge is named after a regular, including this riff on the classic Negroni.

OPEN SESAME Follow the bar on social media to get the week’s password.


Paramount Ballroom

CHEYENNE, WYOMING A century ago, Wyoming’s oil and cattle barons mingled with the common folk at the Capitol Avenue Theatre, in the heart of downtown Cheyenne. Today, in the theater’s old lobby and upper floors, you’ll find the 21st-century equivalent of a commons—a coffee shop below a co-working space and a bright, welcoming cocktail bar in between, with big picture windows to the street. The whole complex is owned by Renee and Jon Jelinek, locals who placed heavy bets on the revival of the neighborhood and are drawing crowds with drinks named after plays that the theater hosted, like the Negroni send-up Modern Eve, with Contortionist Gin from the nearby town of Mills.


PRO TIP Do your drinking early, since the bar closes before midnight. According to Jon, “Not much good happens in a bar in Cheyenne after 11 p.m.”




ROCHESTER, NEW YORK There’s more to Java’s, the little coffee shop and bakery in the Rochester Public Market, than meets the eye. “It’s like a Transformer,” says general manager Donny Clutterbuck. “At night, it changes into a French restaurant that takes risks.” That’s Cure, a pet project of local restaurateurs, where country pâtés and rilletts are paired with Clutterbuck’s ambitious cocktail list. Previously Clutterbuck worked with Dave Arnold, the godfather of “molecular mixology,” and, in Arnold’s tradition, he uses a Spinzall—a culinary centrifuge that



JUNE 2018




clarifies fruit juices—to make the Boom Vang, which is something like a strawberry margarita but a rich, intense, out-of-this-world-good strawberry margarita. ORDER The Velvet Collar, Clutterbuck’s take on the tiki classic Jungle Bird.


The Longboard

rum, pineapple, orange, coconut, and nutmeg). PRO TIP Drink like the St. Johnian boat captains: Order a frozen Passion Fruit Frosé and one Passion Pitted, a highball with reposado tequila and Aperol. Pour the highball into the Frosé and sip—slowly.


Water Witch


When you get off the ferry in Cruz Bay, go straight down Prince Street and take your first left. On the right, you’ll find what’s become an obligatory stop in St. John—the breezy porch of the Longboard. When it opened in 2015, locals welcomed the refreshingly light cuisine—quinoa bowls, ceviche, poke—while tourists dove straight into the Frozen Painkiller, a slurpable version of the age-old Cruzan classic (dark

It’s about time that cocktails became part of official civic policy—we just might not have guessed that Salt Lake City would lead the charge. The ownerbartenders of Water Witch are anchor tenants of the Central Ninth Market, a city-sponsored urban renewal project intended to revitalize a neighborhood that had become a ghost town, according to partner Scott Gardner. There’s a classic black-felt menu board with the week’s specials, and the cocktails are superb, but the bartenders insist that’s not the point. Their new community is. “If a guest wants a cerebral cocktail experience, we’ll give it to you. But our goal is to get people engaging with one another,” says Gardner. “People come to bars to laugh, cry, and celebrate together. And if the drinks are really good? Bonus.” BARTENDER’S CHOICE The official (off menu) drink is a classic daiquiri made with Wray & Nephew, the notoriously funky, 126-proof Jamaican rum.


The Libertine

GREEN BAY, WISCONSIN Tony Oczus had been legally drinking for only three years when he opened a bar with no domestic beer


JUNE 2018


WELCOME TO THE CLUB Ask for a shot of Malört, says Oczus. The brutally bitter spirit has become the secret handshake of Chicagoland bartenders. “We’ll know you’re one of us.”



LAKEWOOD, OHIO What happens when a bunch of bartenders who like camping and Norwegian death metal decide to open their own place? The world’s first Viking-themed cocktail bar, in the middle of the Cleveland suburbs. The partners, including bartender Eric Ho, loved good drinks but thought typical cocktail bars were too precious. “There’s no such thing as a pretentious Viking,” Ho says. The drinks are aggressively named (the Skull Crawler combines coconut, cold brew coffee, and banana-infused rum) and seasonal—the crew works closely with local farmers, and they change the list every few weeks. INSIDE INFO Happy hour attracts a lot of liquorindustry types, making LBM the best place for intelligence if you’re planning a night out in Cleveland. Q



on tap and no TVs for watching football—in a town synonymous with both. He called it the Libertine, an homage to his freethinking ways. His idea was to keep it simple: Show Midwesterners what a real Manhattan tastes like and they’ll come back for more. It took a while to catch on, but, like Vince Lombardi said, it’s not whether you get knocked down, it’s whether you get back up. Fortunately, Oczus stuck with it, and thanks to him, the whole town can now appreciate real cocktails, and he just opened bar number two in nearby De Pere.





A Son Rises


Kris Yenbamroong grew up in his family’s Thai restaurant—then he took it over, renamed it Night + Market, and turned it into an L.A. institution. Here’s how he brings that same heat and sweetness into his own kitchen.









Reward your best friend with irresistible BLUE Wilderness Jerky treats. They’re packed with farm-raised chicken or turkey to satisfy the wild side in every dog.





InSiDe, e’S A oLf

©2018 Blue Buffalo Co., Ltd.

o n To LoVe eAt.

Made with more of the chicken, duck or salmon dogs naturally desire. All dogs descend from wolves, so it’s not surprising they share many traits — especially a love for meat. That’s why we created protein-rich, grain-free BLUE Wilderness.®

Love them like family. Feed them like family.® Available at your favorite pet specialty store.

Fixing Iraq’s Bleeding Heart A conservative, tough-talking, Tennessee-based surgeon is an unlikely hero to gravely ill children in the world’s most war-torn countries. by JORDAN CAMPBELL

of Karbala’s modern Al-Kafeel Super Specialty Hospital, in a white-tiled operating room, Dr. William Novick has Dua, a 12-year-old girl from Baghdad, on the table with her chest cavity clamped open. Alongside three Iraqi doctors, the surgeon is struggling to repair the girl’s failing artificial heart valve. The room is quiet and cool, an icy cocoon insulated from Iraq’s desert heat sweltering just outside. After eight hours of work, Novick pushes away from the table and peels off his bloodied N TH E S E V E NTH F LO O R



JUNE 2018

blue surgical gloves. “Close her up,” he says. He reaches for his cane, gently stands up balancing his large frame, and slowly limps out of the operating room, exhausted. Dua’s condition remains critical. It’s complicated cases like this one that Al-Kafeel hospital reserves for Novick and his team of physicians, imported from around the world, which make up the Novick Cardiac Alliance (NCA). All of them are committed to saving children’s lives in the world’s most dangerous countries. Thirty-six hours later, in the pediatric intensive care unit (PICU), Dua’s vitals inexplicably go into free fall; monitors f latline as MEN’S JOURNAL

Novick in the halls of Al-Kafeel Super Specialty Hospital.

she drops into cardiac arrest. The NCA team begins an emergency procedure, frantically reopening Dua’s chest to reduce pressure on her heart. Novick reaches into her body and starts handheld compressions—Dua’s heart literally in his hand as he pumps blood through her veins. “We’re out of options here,” says Novick, after a few minutes. “We’re going to have to call it.” The PICU falls silent as Novick falls back into a chair in the middle of the room—shattered, but not defeated. Nov ick explains the next day as he taps a coil of ashes into a tray on the coffee table in front of him. He’s watching Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince, in English with Arabic subtitles on a f latscreen TV, chain-smoking in the shared quarters of a quiet guesthouse on Karbala’s dusty east side. Next to him is a basket filled with pain meds. A white neck brace from a car accident sits abandoned on the couch, and a beat-up wooden cane—the vestige of a life-threatening foot infection years ago—leans against the wall. “I’ve read all of the Potter books at least two

“ YO U H AV E T O L I K E FA N TA S Y, ”


or three times,” says Novick, 64, an imposing, bearlike man. Fantasy seems justifiable escapism for the Tennessee-based surgeon, who has logged more than 60 medical missions to Iraq with a team that has performed more than 1,100 surgeries. Dua’s death has hit him particularly hard, but he’s used to the struggle. “Pugnacious is part of the NCA mentality,” says Novick as he lights another cigarette. “You have to bite it, hold on to it, and make it happen.” Novick’s career as a globe-trotting pediatric cardiac surgeon began in the early 1990s, while he was still in residence at the University of Alabama. A Nigerian child came to the university hospital with a rare but treatable condition—if it had been fixed when she was 1 or 2 years old. Unfortunately, the girl was already 12 when Novick’s professor performed a procedure that bought her just some additional time. After her discharge, Novick had nightmares every night for six weeks. “I was chasing her on an open plain, and just as I was about to catch her, she fell off a thousand-foot cliff,” he says. When relaying the girl’s story to some colleagues from Bogotá, they asked Novick if he would come down and aid a pediatric heart surgery program in their country. “I spent two weeks in Bogotá helping them operate on poor children,” he says. “And when I returned to Birmingham, I told my boss I wanted to help kids in developing countries so that they would not suffer like the Nigerian girl.” After two medical missions to Colombia and two to Croatia (during the breakup of the former Yugoslavia), he saw f irsthand where the absence of qualified heart surgeons met a backlog of sick children. Novick quickly gained invaluable experience working in Ukraine and Belarus on the “Chernobyl kids”—pediatric cases involving some of the worst cardiac anomalies born from the 1986 nuclear disaster. In 1994, Novick started the International Children’s Heart Foundation (ICHF) to treat children suffering from congenital heart defects worldwide, but later split with the group over differences regarding where they would operate. His personal credo: “Screw politics, screw religion,” he says. “I don’t care who you pray to. I’m here to help.” With that charter, Novick has been operating inside the world’s most dangerous countries and geopolitical flash points for the past 27 years—Colombia, Nigeria, Iran, just to name a few—and can back up his boasting. In Belgrade, Serbia, in 1999, he refused to stop performing an open-heart surgery on a child while NATO air strikes hit the city, rocking the hospital. In Libya in 2014, when Western embassies were pulling out, Novick held steadfast to his plan to build a world-class heart surgery program at the Tobruk Medical Center, just 70 miles from the ISIS stronghold of Derna. In 2008, Novick was visiting the Pakistani army headquarters in Rawalpindi and was introduced to the U.S. undersecretary of defense, who asked, “Dr. Novick, is there anything that we, the United States government,

can do to help you?” Novick responded, “Mr. Secretary, yes, you can help us, and what I’d like you to do is go home and tell President Bush to quit bombing the children that I operate on.” In spite of his gruff demeanor, Novick is highly respected by his staff. Stacey Marr, an advanced nurse practitioner from the U.K. who has worked closely with Novick in numerous hostile environments worldwide, concedes that Novick can be difficult but is also ‘‘perhaps the best pediatric heart surgeon in the world.’’ what people think about his politics or his career; he just wants to save children’s lives—especially in Iraq. Outraged in the early years of the U.S.-led


Top: Novick’s team in surgery. Above: Karbala’s Holy Shrine of Imam of Al-Husayn ibn Ali.

coalition to topple Saddam Hussein, Novick aligned with then secretary of state Colin Powell’s famous Pottery Barn war-room ethos of “you break it, you buy it.” “I had a strong moral feeling, as an American, we had broken this country badly, and we had a responsibility to help provide some sort of a return to a semblance of normality,” says Novick, who made his first trip to Kurdistan, in northern Iraq, where security was sketchy. “There was a fair amount of insurgency going on.” Iraq’s vice president, Adil Abdul-Mahdi, JUNE 2018


WE HAD BROKEN THIS COUNTRY AND WE HAD A RESPONSIBILITY TO HELP PROVIDE A RETURN TO NORMALITY. invited the doctor to Iraq in 2009 to tour possible hospital sites in Baghdad and one in Nasiriyah, in the south, where it was relatively safe. “The drive from the airport was lined with concrete barriers, I think they were 12, maybe 15 feet high, so snipers couldn’t shoot you on the way from the airport into Baghdad,” says Novick. “I toured three sites in Baghdad and one in Nasiriyah accompanied by the chief of staff of the vice president of Iraq,” he says. AbdulMahdi ultimately pulled together enough financing to build the new Nasiriyah Heart Center, where Novick quickly launched a pediatric heart program. “We did that for a couple of years,” says Novick, who by 2012 had also built satellite programs in Najaf and Bazra, also in the south. Keen to expand ICHF’s footprint, Novick requested his colleagues at the heart center to take him on a tour of the newly constructed hospital in Fallujah, where ISIS was now a growing concern. “We made a one-day tour of a new medical facility there, which was fully barricaded,” says Novick. “Weeks later, ISIS overran Fallujah, blew up the hospital, and reduced it to rubble—it was terrible.” By the end of 2014, the Islamic State had nearly taken over half the country, wreaking havoc on already war-weary civilians. But Novick’s perseverance led to the start of another NCA pediatric heart program in 2015, this time with his newly formed NCA, at Karbala’s Al-Kafeel hospital, a well-funded facility with high security. U.S.-backed Iraqi forces ultimately pushed ISIS out of Mosul in 2017, but the country is still waging an ongoing war on terror: random suicide bombers and armed attacks have created a massive security challenge. Soldiers wearing desert camo and wielding AK-47s man the country’s heavily fortified security checkpoints. This remains everyday life for Iraqis. and Novick is upbeat, making bed rounds in the PICU. Wearing a white physician’s lab coat, he personally checks the vitals on six of the children he’s operated on over the past several days, all of them recovering nicely. The parents, mostly mothers wearing head scarves or dressed in full black niqabs, are playing at their childI T ’ S F R I DAY A F T E R N O O N ,


JUNE 2018

rens’ bedsides. For Novick, this is a sort of victory lap, and his stethoscope drapes around his neck like a decorative medallion. Saif and Ashmaq, a 20-something couple from Mosul, arrive minutes later, eager to reconnect with their eight-month-old son, Sajad, on whom Novick performed reconstructive valve surgery the night before. When the U.S. invaded Iraq 15 years ago, Saif and Ashmaq were just kids themselves. They remember their parents fighting the U.S. military and have grown up in the troubled aftermath. Novick taps his cane across the polished floor tiles of the PICU, greets the family with a uni-

Top: A street in Karbala. Above: Parents Ashmaq and Saif, after their eight-monthold son’s successful heart surgery.

versal smile, and tickles Sajad’s tiny feet. These are his kids, both generations. “What do parents want for their children?” he asks. “They want them to be healthy. They want them to be well-fed. They want them to be educated, and they want them to be more successful than they were. You can ask anybody in the world that question. Anybody in the world.” Q














Jeff Clark Signature Cruz VINTAGE ELECTRIC

10 Things Dads Really Want Show the ol’ man extra love this year by splurging on these nextlevel versions of ordinary holiday gifts.


Camino Carryall 35 $349


While it looks like the impact driver he has in the garage, this handheld massager oscillates at speeds up to 3,200 percussions per minute to loosen tight muscles and reduce soreness from hard workouts. The battery lasts three hours per charge.


JUNE 2018


Hybrid Manufacture $150

Whether filled with fishing gear or campsite supplies, this bombproof tote has a puncture-resistant shell and molded EVA bottom to keep out water when set on a riverbank or beach (or keep water in when Dad stashes wet waders for the ride home). MEN’S JOURNAL








20 I




Dryden 2-Wheel Carry-On $295


a rugged nylon canvas construction and zippers, this roller bag will survive any lugler’s abuse. Compression cinch straps keep t h h ’ ki li ht fil

Gardening Tool Gift Set Stargaze Recliner Luxury

FISHER BLACKSMITHING There’s really nothing wrong with a Fiskars or Ames hand trowel. Seriously. But let Dad know he’s worth more than a quick trip to Home Depot with this trio of hand tools, forged in Bozeman, Montana. Each is finished with a hand-turned black walnut handle.


McFly Crew Light Socks

Stagg EKG Pour Over Kettle

Camo Necktie $20


Wool socks are always nice (no stink!), but they come at a hefty price. You can feel good about plunking down $20 for this pair, though, because they come with a rock-solid lifetime guarantee: If Dad destroys them, Darn Tough will replace them.


JUNE 2018



Every year we remind you: He doesn’t need, nor want, another tie. Break that rule this year and get one from Philly-based Forage. The jacquard tie is handcrafted in small runs using vintage and deadstock fabrics. MEN’S JOURNAL


He doesn’t have to sacrifice comfort at a tailgate or campsite with this lightweight seat. It lets him recline e



Now’s the perfect time to get into pour-over coffee, thanks to tools like this 30-ounce kettle. It lets him dial in the exact water temperature (from 135° to 212°F). And the base displays a timer, so he knows exactly how long to let the coffee brew.

Seeing Clearly


Transparent frames have never looked better, thanks to brands turning out see-through styles in classic shapes. by J USTIN FENNER



The brown hue of both the frame and lenses splits the difference between crystal clear glasses and traditional tortoiseshell, so theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a subtle but standout take on the transparent look.




Handcrafted in Japan from Italian acetate, this frame features thicker temples and a straight brow, which gives it an angular look perfect for guys with rounder faces.




This unisex design with a flat profile has seven strong barrel hinges in each temple, meaning it can withstand the beating of a day at the beach. Its acetate frame changes from tortoiseshell to clear and sleek.






This slightly oversize frame features stylish blue lenses and a high keyhole bridge. But the anti-reflective coating and ultraviolet protection make this pair a great combination of form and function.


photograph by JAMIE CHUNG


Jeff Goldblum and Truman Capote both wore the Lemtosh in opaque styles, but the clear version with bottle-green lenses works just as well for us less famous dudes. The frame comes in different width sizes and in bold hues like sage and tobacco.

The Light Stuff 043

Is bigger better? In the case of the tougher, techier Ram 1500, we say yes. Get ready to park in the back of the lot. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re gonna need the space.

A 12-inch touchscreen dominates the dash (above). The adjustable Mopar Ram Rack (coming soon) mounts to the bedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s utility rails (below).





Face Shield








Isla Fisher The comedian and actress (who definitely is not Amy Adams) talks country-hopping, the perils of being a redhead, and the most romantic thing a man can do. by SAR AH Z . WEXLER

In your new movie, Tag, you’re one of a group of college friends who play an epic game of one-upmanship, with surprises that go on for years. Have you ever planned a big surprise or had something major sprung on you? For my 40th birthday, my husband [Sacha Baron Cohen] threw me a completely amazing surprise. I had chosen my guest list and the cocktails for the party. He knows I like Katy Perry, and f lash cut to midnight on the dance f loor. I see a sparkling microphone, and then who turns around? Katy Perry. It was basically me and a bunch of my mates just dancing in a circle, screaming along to every lyric. Best surprise ever. Did you try to keep it going with something as cool for him? He didn’t want to get a pet, but on his birthday, I surprised him with two rescue

into the closet, you’re ahead of the game, because when you leave them at the bottom of the stairs, contrary to popular belief, a fairy does not f loat them up the stairs and into the closet. Nor does a fairy replace the toilet-paper roll or take the garbage out. To be clear: Chores are romantic to you? I think helping is deeply romantic. Anytime you do something supportive at home, it is romantic. Is it wrong that I think that? Is that crazy? Just paying attention to the other person and showing that you are really seeing them—that is the most romantic. You converted to Judaism to marry Sacha, which is a big romantic gesture. I have really embraced Judaism. Actually, today I was making a chicken soup, but without knaidel [matzo balls].

I THINK HELPING IS DEEPLY ROMANTIC—JUST PAYING ATTENTION TO THE PERSON AND SHOWING THAT YOU REALLY SEE THEM. cats—Hamilton Whiskers and Madame Tiny Paws. He gave me Katy Perry; I got him some animals he may or may not be allergic to.

What is the most romantic thing a man can do? Honestly, if you manage to get your shoes 048

JUNE 2018

You were born in Oman and raised in the U.K. and Australia. Do you feel more at home in any one place? We split our time bet ween L .A. and London, and my immediate family is in Greece and Germany, but I FaceTime with my dad every day. I definitely have a complicated cultural identity. I identify very much with being an Australian; I have kind of a laid-back sensibility, and my outlook on life is very down-to-earth and Aussie. I’m also quite English because I’m into manners and love a cup of tea. MEN’S JOURNAL

And how was being a redhead as a kid? I got teased growing up in Australia and then in London, where people label you a ginger. It can make you feel like an outsider. I was the only redhead in my class, with people calling me carrottop or asking whether the carpet matches the drapes. Gingers are much more accepted in America than in England. Do you feel differently about it now? Yeah, now I embrace it because it makes me unique. I also used to want to be taller and always wore heels, but then I realized the entire sight gag in Wedding Crashers worked because of the height difference between me and Vince [Vince Vaughn’s 6'5" to her 5'3"]. Now I think that the more you you can be, the better. Everybody else is taken. On that note, is it weird that you so often get confused with Amy Adams? Everyone says she’s my doppelgänger, but she has beautiful blue eyes and I have brown eyes, and she’s taller than me. We’re friends, and I even introduced my dad to her—he said he couldn’t see the resemblance, but everyone else seems to. One year for our Christmas card, I thought it would be funny to put Amy’s face onto my body in the picture of me with Sacha and t he k ids. Nobody noticed—t hey just said, “That’s the cutest picture of you and Sacha.” Honestly, I have never laughed so hard. Q

photograph by JAMES WHITE


You have often starred in romanticcomedies. Do you consider yourself a romantic? Definitely. I am always drawn to stories in which characters have some romantic connection. I also read romance novels, and I watch those kinds of movies. Sacha and I have been together for 17 years, and getting married in itself is such a romantic and optimistic choice.

Are you a good cook? I’m never going to be an amazing chef, but I did come in as runner-up at the school bake-off for my cheesecake—quite a feat given the competitive mums.

How did all that moving around affect your growing up? I had to learn to make friends quickly. That’s probably where the root of my comedy comes from: I would arrive in a new school and the easiest way to make friends is to act like the class clown. I was born with big ears and big feet, so I had physical comedy already, before I even opened my mouth. I would just make people laugh, and that was an easy way to make friends. But the downside of my childhood is sometimes I make connections easily and quickly, though they may not feel as deep, perhaps, because I know they might be finite.

The Man on the Inside For 50 years, journalist Seymour Hersh has been at the center of nearly every major story involving the U.S. military or intelligence agencies. Now, in a new memoir, he (mostly) tells all.

IETNAM’S MY LAI massacre. Watergate. The Abu Ghraib prison scandal. For nearly five decades, Pulitzer Prize– winning journalist Seymour Hersh has been shining a light in the darkest corners of American politics and business, including the Mafia. He probably knows more about the inner workings of the CIA and the Pentagon than most intelligence officials, and reading his new memoir, Reporter (Knopf), you get the sense that he has a source behind every closed door in Washington. You also get the impression that he’s an inveterate crank, inclined to express his opinion at every turn, regularly arguing with his editors over stories. He even once called legendary New York Times executive editor Abe Rosenthal at 2 in the morning—at his mistress’s apartment, no less— demanding more space for a piece on domestic spying. He got an extra page. Even today, at 81, Hersh is still pushing hard, recently publishing stories on the complicity of Pakistan in the capture of Osama Bin Laden and the use of chemical weapons in Syria. We caught up with him at his home outside D.C.


After all the years, you haven’t slowed down. What do you like so much about reporting? It feels virtuous to me. I can’t think of a better way to spend your life. You’re making people toe the line. What I hate, and what I see more and more of that passes for investigative reporting, is some guy will have a good story and he’ll do, “He said, she said.” Our job is to go beyond that, to really go find out who was the asshole… Sorry, I’ll watch my language. But who is the culprit? Who did it? Or who do we think bears the most responsibility? It’s all so fun.

What was it like covering the Pentagon dur050

JUNE 2018

How did you know they weren’t lying? Look, I got suckered, and we all get suckered. I wrote a bad story on page one. We do that because somebody tells you something who has told you good stuff before. I always had two or three people in the inside that I could vet with when I had a story from somebody else. They would tell me who’s good. Over the years, you figured out. I still got suckered. You covered Watergate for the New York Times. Is there ever going to be another time in journalism as exciting as that? Well, there was nothing like Watergate, because we had a president on the run. What about now, with Russia and Trump? I’m a big skeptic on Russian hacking. I think somebody in Russia could have hacked the DNC emails. But I can tell you MEN’S JOURNAL

the Washington Post are our best newspapers, there’s no question about that. But I think what’s ruined everything is 24-hour cable news. Every hour they put up another “breaking news” or “exclusive.” “Watch at 6 o’clock!” And MSNBC and CNN and Fox, they all have their different points of view, but they’re all nuts. There’s no middle ground anymore. But you also said reporters should make a stand on stories. Aren’t the cable networks doing just that? I don’t think there’s anything wrong with having an opinion if there’s a factual basis for it or the reporting is there. I’m a professional journalist, and I have a great dentist, but I’ve never asked him who he voted for. What do I care? He’s a great dentist. I look at it the same way for reporters. Q


After reading your book, I would guess that your editors might feel differently. You always get mad at your editors. That’s part of the game. It’s like being in the Army. I was in the Army. You bitch. We always bitch, that’s the way it is.

ing the Vietnam War as a critic of the war? People knew I didn’t like the freaking war. They just did. I didn’t think that made me a lefty; it just made me objective that the war was a freaking disaster. That was an objective assessment. The Pentagon press corps, they were so passive. They just took the briefings and put them in the paper. And so officers would talk to me because they didn’t like the war either.

Lower carbs. Lower calories. Higher expectations.

2.6 g C A R B S 90 C A LO R I E S


Drink responsibly. Corona PremierÂŽ Beer. Imported by Crown Imports, Chicago, IL. Per 12 fl. oz. serving average analysis: Calories 90, Carbs 2.6 grams, Protein 0.7 grams, Fat 0.0 grams. Compared to 12 fl. oz. serving Corona Extra Calories: 149, Carbs: 14.0 grams, Protein: 1.2 grams, Fat: 0.0 grams.

The Urban Jungle A new book upends the myths of the Amazon and explores why the region remains mired in turmoil.

Law enforcement stages a drug raid in the slums of Manaus, Brazil, which has emerged as a hot spot for narcotics trafficking and gang violence.



JUNE 2018

cattle truck full of loggers, confined in slaverylike conditions, had been discovered near the town of Altamira. When he asked an official at the scene why the incident hadn’t sparked an outcry, “the dude was like, ‘That’s just kind of what happens here,’ ” Arnold recalls. There’s essentially a slave trade in the Amazon, he adds, “but because it doesn’t affect iPhones, it’s invisible in terms of global consciousness.” The abuse of workers is just the beginning. Illegal logging outfits, in their effort to control the rain forest, massacre indigenous tribes, one of which emerged from the jungle during the World Cup, fleeing for its life. The bloodshed dates back to the 17th century, when settlers began enslaving the Amazon’s indigenous people en masse. The tribes are not “uncontacted,” as sometimes reported, Arnold says. “In large part, they have voluntarily isolated themselves out of a deep-seated fear. They had contact, terrifying contact, and have withdrawn.” Despite the atrocities committed in the rain forest, the drug trade poses perhaps the most conspicuous threat. In December 2015, Arnold took a boat to the town of Tabatinga, where each year some 300

The Third Bank of the River, by Chris Feliciano Arnold, details the war over the rain forest.


tons of cocaine cross into Brazil from Colombia and Peru. At first, it didn’t seem like one of the world’s highest-volume trafficking corridors, but “it’s hard to find somebody who’s completely clean,” Arnold says. “It’s police, it’s businessmen, it’s lawyers, it’s accountants.” When the drugs make their way to the cities, violence follows. In Manaus, in July 2015, a spat of reprisal killings claimed 38 lives, reigniting a war between the cartels and law enforcement. The dead included an 18-year-old construction worker; a 25-yearold parking attendant, on duty directing cars; and two young fry cooks, standing outside a home. Afterward, Arnold went door-to-door to interview the victims’ families and realized that trafficking was all around him. “I reached a point where I was no longer sure that I could responsibly continue to pursue the story without making people feel unsafe,” he says. Looking back, Arnold says he didn’t want to dishonor his home country by writing a negative book. “But I realized, ultimately, that the most important thing I could do was amplify the systemic crises there rather than try to rush past it with, ‘Oh, look, they have the internet now,’ ” he says. He admits that initially the new developments had given him hope. “I was really naive,” he says, “because a lot of the transformation was superficial.” Q


journalist Chris Feliciano Arnold returned to Manaus, Brazil, to cover the FIFA World Cup and no longer recognized it. In the eight years since his last visit, the city, the largest in the Amazon and surrounded by jungle, had built a mall, a Nike store, and a 12-screen movie theater. Arnold passed Subway franchises, enjoyed 3G cell service, and cruised freshly paved highways. In many ways, however, Manaus remained a backwater, despite the recent developments. The city’s century-old sewer system, for starters, served less than 10 percent of its residents. “It’s bizarre to be in a city of 2 million people where some kids have Pokémon Go and others don’t have running water,” says Arnold, who was adopted from Brazil as an infant and raised in Oregon. He soon felt that the perception of the region didn’t match reality. To many outsiders, “the Amazon is almost a Discovery Channel special,” he says. “That was a myth I really wanted to bust.” Arnold’s new book, The Third Bank of the River, chronicles his three-year effort to understand the Amazon as it exists today. Through exhaustive research and firsthand reporting, he reveals how drug lords, loggers, politicians, and tribe leaders have shaped the region, weaving together stories hundreds of years old and others he watched unfold, and explores the myriad of issues facing the people who live

MARK YOUR CALENDAR North Fork Dock Diving Weekend.



Jimmie Johnson FILM

A HERO’S JOURNEY A new documentary traces Mr. Rogers’ unlikely path to television stardom.


JUNE 2018









This exceptionally affordable DSLR kit comes with a Nikkor 18–55mm VR lens and helpful beginner features, including clearly marked and easily accessible dials and buttons and a built-in guide mode that walks you through your shots, 1,200 of which can be taken on a single charge. Otherwise, it’s fairly no-frills. It has a fixed, nontouch screen and no microphone input, so you’ll have to make do with the builtin mono mics when shooting video (up to 1080p).

2 Nikon D5600 $650 (body only)


JUNE 2018

Aside from producing some of the sharpest pictures of any affordable DSLR, this midrange model turns out huge 24.2-megapixel images and has a responsive touchscreen, a built-in stereo mic for 1080p video, and an impressive 970-shot battery life. We especially like its “always on” feature, which transfers images to a smartphone as you shoot, so you don’t have to fiddle with apps.


3 Pentax KP $900 (body only)

Thanks to a weather-sealed body that s dust-, moisture-, and freeze-resistant, this sturdy powerhouse can endure rain, snow, or sand storms no sweat. Moreover, its tight and fast autofocus (even in low light); superfast, silent shutter; and five-axis image stabilization will help you get the perfect shot no matter how much the weather is conspiring against you.

The biggest boost you can make to your DSLR is to trade out the stock 18–55mm lens that came with it.

4 Canon EOS 77D $800 (body only)

5 Canon EOS Rebel SL2 $650

This souped-up model boasts an LCD (for ISO, battery life, WiFi) on the top of the camera, and a dedicated on-off button on the back for the superfast 45-point autofocus system, which stays remarkably on track. Plus, the touchscreen can be pinched and pinpointed for zooming but turns off when you raise your eye to the viewfinder.

SIGMA 18–300MM F/3.5–6.3 DC MACRO OS HSM $400

TAMRON SP AF 10– 24MM F/3.5–4.5 DI II




size, it still has a touchscreen that can be flipped around for selfies and multiple-angle HD videos, or used to swipe through the interactive camera tutorials.







JUNE 2018





Induction Cooktops


twist: Through the use of smart tech like the eters integrated into pans, ultraprecise temperature controls, and companion smartphone apps that walk you through a recipe, the appliances have gained new audiences, from kitchen newbies to the cooking elite. And they can assist you with everything from nailing sunny-side up eggs (which is harder than it sounds) to crisping the skin of a nice fish fillet. Our tester, L.A.-based chef Jeff Mahin, had doubts about this high-tech gadgetry, but perfectly charred and cooked-to-temp rib eyes, among other dishes, made him a believer. “This almost puts me out of a job,” he says. “The tech will change how we cook and how we learn to cook. I’m eating my words.” 058

JUNE 2018



Control Freak $150

Mahin had a few hang-ups while cooking recipes via the One Top’s app, and he couldn’t pull off masterly sunnyside ups with it. But the included thermometer made for perfectly cooked medium-rare steaks. Bonus: It’s inexpensive.



Manual controls let you precisely hit a hard or soft boil and remember time-and-temperature routines for recipes like crème anglaise. “A truly professional machine—it’s only useful at home if you’re a mad scientist,” says Mahin.

Catch a Wave This summer, spend more time on the water with these maneuverable, expert-tested surfboards. by MARK ANDERS




Baby Buddha


From $1,250

Walden Surfboards Deviled Egg From $699

Lost Round Nose Fish Retro From $700

Made with a carbon-fiber epoxy sandwich construction, this board is unusually durable and lightweight (just 9.8 pounds) with added flex that our testers found lively and snappy while still providing a longboard-like trim. Sizes: 8'3" and 8'9".

Walden took a 1970s egg design and gave it a speedy modern concave bottom and user-friendly rails. We found that it paddled like a Cadillac, stomped steep drops, and always delivered a smooth, easy ride. Sizes: 6'8" to 7'10".

This crazy-fun, souped-up take on Lost’s 25-year-old Round Nose Fish design glides easily into waves, while the spiral vee concave bottom and split keel quad fins offer ridiculously fast acceleration. Sizes: 5' to 6'2". MEN’S JOURNAL

ENJOY HANDPLANES $155 Want to step up your bodysurfing? At 12 inches wide and seven inches long, this handplane gives you a bigger gliding surface than LeBron James’ hand, making it much easier to be up and riding on fast, hollow waves.


For the Record


We tested five easy-to-use turntables to see which ones rock when it comes to performance and value.



1/ DP-300F

2/ Juke Box E

The fully automatic DP-300F excels at simplicity. You can have it up and running in minutes even if you’ve never touched a turntable before, and its built-in preamp means that it can hook up to almost any pair of powered speakers. You should also have no problem finding one well below MSRP. Its sound quality doesn’t wow, but it’s a fine first unit if you’re new to the world of wax.


JUNE 2018



The most forward-looking turntable in our test, this sleek unit not only has a built-in Bluetooth receiver, preamp, and amplifier but also top-tier sound, together making it the perfect all-in-one setup for home listening. It’s not cheap, but you can spend a lot more money on much lesser turntables, and few, if any, will be as versatile. Look for more companies to begin rolling out similar Bluetooth models. MEN’S JOURNAL


4/ AT-LP5 $1,600

A feat of German engineering, this high-end plug-and-play unit was easily the best-sounding model we tested. You can clearly hear the space between instruments and pick up nuances that disappear with other turntables. The price tag hurts, but trust that the Concept’s fidelity and elegant design left no doubt of its dominance. It’s the Platonic ideal and, no surprise, has already become a classic.



The AT-LP5 aims to be a do-it-all workhorse. It has a built-in preamp and was the only model we tested that has a USB output, for converting LPs to MP3s, which, frankly, doesn’t seem terribly essential in the age of Spotify and other streaming services, but some collectors may appreciate it. Its sound quality was acceptable overall, though the low end could be a bit muddy at times.

photograph by NIGEL COX




3/ Concept




5/ mmf-1.5 MUSIC HALL


Though some of the other turntables we tested look nice, the mmf-1.5 is truly handsome, with its real cherry veneer. It has no fancy bells and whistles (though it does include a built-in preamp) but that’s not a bad thing, because what the mmf-1.5 does, it does well. Its fidelity was on par with the pricier Pro-Ject Juke Box E and topped by only the much costlier Clearaudio Concept.

Round out your stereo setup with these essential accessories. SPEAKERS The Audioengine A5+ Wireless bookshelf powered speakers ($500) sounded superb whether we used the RCA inputs or paired them with a Bluetooth device. They’re supereasy to sync to boot.

PREAMP Ultracompact and sturdy, the Turntable Lab PH01 ($180) is a no-fuss headphone amp and phono preamp, the latter of which you’ll need if your turntable doesn’t have one built in. MEN’S JOURNAL

JUNE 2018


Speed Demons E-bikes have typically been geared for the casual rider. But a new batch of drop-bar models will help you go fasterâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and conquer those brutal uphills and headwinds. by STEPHEN KRCMAR

1 062

2 Bulls Dail-E Grinder $5,199

4 Raleigh Tamland iE Step Over $4,750

With fenders, a lighting system, a front shock, and burly 50mm tires, the Dail-E Grinder is the best do all e-bike available. During 580 miles of testing, mostly on a 60-mile commute from Los Angeles to Long Beach and back, the front shock made short work of cobblestones and rough roads, and the Shimano Di2’s shifting was the best we tried.


Built on Raleigh’s Tamland platform—a fast commuter that’s been in the company’s lineup for years—the Tamland iE is powered by a 497-watt-hour battery. With big 47c tires and sturdy but smaller than most 27.5-inch rims, this rig has one wheel in the supercommuting world and the other in fast singletrack territory.


Haibike Xduro Race S 6.0 $5,199

Trek CrossRip + $4,500

p p Intuvia display is intuitive and smart, and the Bosch motor reacts quickly, so you can catch green lights that would be impossible otherwise. And the DT Swiss wheels matched with Schwalbe Durano E tires proved burly enough for busted pavement.

Like the Bulls Dail-E Grinder, this bike, equipped with fenders, rack, and lights, is ready for rainy outings and carrying a load. The rack is great for riders who love panniers, but it also can be removed easily for a cleaner, faster look. The bike includes a 350-watt Bosch motor, and SRAM hydraulic disc brakes deliver plenty of stopping power.






JUNE 2018


The Pack Is Back Whatever associations you have with the Day-Glo fanny packs of the 1980s, forget them. Today’s bags are a toolbox on your belt, keeping gear close at hand. by CLINT CARTER

2 PEAK DESIGN EVERYDAY SLING The most organized of the packs we tested allows you to rearrange partitioning walls inside the five-liter hull to secure small camera bodies and lenses. And dedicated pockets for chargers, cables, and SD cards let us find logical homes for odd-shaped objects. $100;




DAKINE HOT LAPS 5L The small of your back turns out to be a surprisingly comfortable place to stow water during rides. With a twoliter hydration bladder and a hose that attaches magnetically to the hip belt, Dakine’s bag makes it easy to steal quick sips, and while we were wearing it, we found ourselves drinking more H2O than usual. $70; MEN’S JOURNAL

OSPREY TALON 6 By borrowing engineering tricks from Osprey’s overnight packs, the Talon 6 makes a few pounds of gear feel almost weightless inside two cavernous pockets and lock-in bottle cages—which also happen to hold tall boys, in case you’d like to indulge in a celebratory slammer at the summit. $75;

1 MOUNTAINSMITH TRIPPIN’ FANNY PACK Shorts pockets simply can’t accommodate bulky items like sunscreen tubes and paperback novels. But this retro-style pack is big enough for chill days in the sun, and is made from heavy polyester engineered to withstand tears. $25;

5 FILSON FISHING WAIST PACK Think of this as a soft-sided tackle box that never leaves your side. Brass buttons and a two-way zipper provide one-handed access to tools and personal items stored in any of the eight pockets, while a detachable sheepskin patch keeps flies mounted on your hip. $125;

Sources: MPA, Total (Duplicated) Magazine Media 360° Audience, Jan-May YTD 2017, Brand Audience Report; Simmons Research, Multi-Media Engagement Study, Spring 2016.


When it comes to influencers, magazine editors are the originals. No one knows their stuf—or YOU—better. Their authentic, authoritative content makes magazine media more trusted than any other. No wonder its print, online, mobile and video audience has grown to 1.8 billion. Experts you can trust. That’s something to believe in. #BelieveMagMedia |




Josh Brolin may be playing the heavy in two big summer blockbusters, but offscreen heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s less movie star and more mystic-poet-goofball. It just might be the realest thing in Hollywood. BY MICKEY RAPKIN PHOTOGRAPHS BY MILLER MOBLEY

It’s an early spring


T R U T H T I M E . B R O L I N really

did get stabbed in Costa Rica, exactly as he told me. He stands up in his living room, a block from the beach in Santa Monica, and lifts up his shirt to demonstrate how the knife went into his belly button. Our plan had been to go for a drive, or at least get out of the house. But Brolin is exhausted, and a tad ornery, and refuses to budge. “Make it up!” he says. “Say we

The many faces of Brolin (clockwise from top left): As Thanos in Avengers: Infinity War; as Brand in 1985’s Goonies; his breakout role as Llewelyn Moss in No Country for Old Men; as Cable, opposite Ryan Reynolds, in Deadpool 2.

went to the pier and got stuck at the top of the Ferris wheel for two-and-a-half hours. And got rescued by the fire department!” Brolin is wearing a black tank top, his hair slicked back, and while he looks nothing like someone who just turned 50, he is momentarily feeling his age. I can’t blame him. The guy just shot five films back-to-back. In case you missed it, this is the Summer of Brolin. First, he stars as the supervillain Thanos in Avengers: Infinity War; then he’s the timetraveling vigilante Cable in Deadpool 2; then,


afternoon at the Santa Monica Pier, and Josh Brolin is dangling 130 feet in the air. For the last 90 minutes or so, we’ve been stuck atop the iconic pier’s Ferris wheel—the one you’ve seen in everything from Forrest Gump to Three’s Company—swinging back and forth (and back and forth and back and forth) in a tiny fiberglass cabin, which had been attached to the hulking metal carnival wheel but now seems perilously close to snapping off. Brolin stares down at the ground where the local fire department is racing to pull out that giant, foremergencies-only trampoline.

“We’re not gonna die,” Brolin tells me, then launches into a story about the time he did almost die—on a street in Costa Rica five years ago, nearly to the day. He and his now wife, Kathryn, were staying in a dodgy area of San José on their way back from a surf trip. A buddy had warned them not to leave the hotel after midnight. But Brolin, being Brolin, wanted a burger. “I was still drinking, and we’d tied one on,” he says. “There was a McDonald’s around the corner. I guess the guys clocked us the minute we left the hotel.” The restaurant turned out to be closed, and Brolin’s girl wanted to get back to the hotel. “But I’m kind of looking down the street…” he says. “I see a Subway sign flickering; she’s pissed off, and she starts to go back. And I’m deciding, ‘Do I want Subway more than I want to protect her?’ ” Long story short—and it is a long story— a dude with shaky eyes came out of nowhere and asked Brolin for a cigarette, then for some money. When Brolin replied that he did not have either, the man stabbed him in the stomach. “Run!” Brolin shouted when a second guy appeared. Luckily some passersby began screaming, and the criminals ran off. Brolin soon found himself in the back seat of an ambulance, calling his kids to say he loved them. Ten days later, he was on the set of Inherent Vice. “The knife went in about six centimeters,” Brolin says. “It miraculously didn’t hit any vitals. The doctor said, on a lucky scale, I was about a 9.5 out of 10. If he’d stabbed me an inch below, I wouldn’t have survived.”


Considering the trouble he seems to get into, maybe it’s smart to stay in? Perhaps, but that would mean denying Brolin’s essential nature, which can be described as curiosity above common sense. Brolin’s beating heart is evident to any of his 400,000-plus Instagram followers. His Instagram feed—maybe my favorite thing about him—is a mix of motivational workout videos, tongue-in-cheek self-promotion, and abstract, and surprisingly beautiful, prose poems in which he rhapsodizes about his love for his wife, the great outdoors, finding the beauty in the mundane. “There are ceramics all over the house, my mother collected through the years, that moved today,” he wrote in March. “They lay on the f loor broken into silly mosaics that look like the end of a war, and only bring back those memories of how splintered she was.” In a post on International Women’s Day, Brolin wrote of his wife: “How a lifetime can be lived in the fingerprint of a moment, a touch of celebra-

finally, a shady CIA operative in Sicario: Day of the Soldado, a sequel to the 2015 crime drama. And he’ll be busy for the foreseeable future, too—Brolin’s signed on to play Cable at least three more times. Meantime, just days before our interview, Brolin was forced to go to Vancouver for last-minute reshoots for Deadpool 2, which required last-minute retraining, and his body is feeling it—when he rotates his shoulder near my ear, it sounds like he’s shuff ling a deck of cards. It’s easy to see why he might just want to chill. Still, it’s a nice problem to have, Brolin concedes, considering how familiar he is with the alternative. “For 22 years,” he says, “the phone never rang.” On paper, Josh Brolin could be considered Hollywood royalty. His father, James Brolin, appeared in more movies and TV

series (including Marcus Welby, M.D.) than you can count, and famously later married Barbra Streisand. Josh’s mother, Jane Cameron Agee, was a casting director. But Brolin has always been an outsider. He was raised on a ranch in Paso Robles, way up in central California, where cash was sometimes tight. He ran around with a skate-surf gang called the Cito Rats, whose ranks were decimated by drug abuse. Brolin tried heroin once; it didn’t take. At 17, he moved to a squat in Venice, back when Venice was still dirty. Brolin felt like he was paying his dues, reading Shakespeare plays on the beach, skateboarding, auditioning for acting gigs. He had a starring role in Goonies, became something of a teen heartthrob, and at one point went to Europe for six months, where he got mugged on a train and wound up in an Italian hospital.

tion in everything you do together.” The Instagram posts—heartfelt without being maudlin—are so counter to everything we’ve come to expect from a movie star. But seated across from him beneath a William Eggleston portrait, I realize this is the truest ref lection of himself. Ryan Reynolds, star of the Deadpool films, agrees. “I followed Josh on Instagram before he was Cable,” Reynolds says. “My wife is the one who recommended it. I love that he can go into these kinds of Sam Shepard–like trances. And then he can post something that’s just utterly pithy and silly and fun. It feels like it’s just for him.” B R O L I N ’ S W I S D O M , such as

it is, was hard-earned. His 20s and 30s followed a consistent path—disappointment, excitement, crash, repeat. He had two kids with an


is a kind of grown-up surf shack, a modest spot a spit from the beach, with white walls and

Zip-lining with his wife, Kathryn.

“God doesn’t want me to do anything inauthentic right now,” Brolin says. “That’s the overwhelming whisper in my ear.” 070

grounded.“It’s so pretentious to say that,” Brolin says. Brolin’s assistant gently interrupts. We’ve been talking for almost two hours and I’m determined not to leave without addressing the fact that Brolin’s stepmother, Barbra Streisand, was recently in the news for cloning her beloved, deceased dog, a 14-year-old Coton du Tulear named Samantha. Actually, she cloned the dog twice. Has he met the twins, I asked? “Of course! She’s so proud of those dogs!” Brolin says, launching into an odd story about the funeral of his friend, Soundgarden front man Chris Cornell. “Listen, man. This is morbid. This is probably not OK for me to say. But I spoke at his funeral. Afterward, a few close people went out to a restaurant. On the way, I got a call. I said to Vicky—Cornell’s widow—‘I have to leave.’ She was like, ‘You’re leaving because your stepmother’s dog just died?’ I said, ‘Yes. I’m sorry.’ Kathryn and I get in the truck. It takes forever to get there. Now we’re in the hills of Malibu. We go down. [Barbra’s] sitting there so sweetly with her friend and assistant, and they’re both bawling. Sammie’s been buried. It was as tragic as what I just came from. So when she talked about cloning, I got it. She was that close to that dog.” I am about to start laughing, but Brolin stops me. “Don’t smile!” he says. Brolin has a great sense of humor, about most things but especially about himself. He feels things deeply, but he’s also a goofball, which was on full display while filming Avengers: Infinity War. Brolin plays the ubervillain Thanos; all 672 previous Marvel movies have been building to this very confrontation, and the two-part finale, Infinity War, is reportedly the most expensive movie ever made, budgeted at a $1 billion. You can see that cash all over the screen. But Brolin says working on the film felt more like doing “experimental theater.” He was in a warehouse for a year, basically, standing in front of a green screen, playing dress up with the world’s most famous actors. The costume department put a prosthetic chest on him, and with his “short arms” sticking out, he says, “I looked like a T. rex. I’ve got this voice, it’s almost like old English, and Chris Hemsworth is sitting there with an ax—but it’s really just a stick—and he’s jumping off apple boxes and tripping. Loki is up on a ladder. It was like taking acid! I was like, ‘I wanna do this forever!’ ” Of casting Brolin as the big bad guy, Marvel mastermind Kevin Feige explains: “He had the pathos and the relatability that we were looking for. I love the relish with which he instantly dove into the character. We thrust him onstage at ComicCon soon after casting him. I have a memory of Robert Downey passing out red roses to everyone in the audience—he then hands Josh a purple rose, and Josh proceeded to eat it.” The phone is ringing again and Brolin has to take this call. His team wants to dis-


BROLIN’S SANTA Monica house

tons of natural light and unopened mail and framed artwork that still needs to be hanged. At 1,400 square feet, the space is hardly an A-list star’s pad. Plus, it’s a rental. Brolin may be a movie star, but he takes pride in the fact that he can still hear his neighbor snoring through the walls. Brolin and his wife, Kathryn—an entrepreneur and model roughly 20 years his junior—got married in 2016 and had planned on moving to Malibu. The rental would serve as Brolin’s office, and the couple would move up the coast where they’d build a fuck-you mansion. Then Brolin had second thoughts about the project. “We realized, ‘Why are we doing that? Why do we need a big house? You get your wing, I get my wing...” Maybe they’d momentarily got caught up in that Hollywood thing. He’s mocking himself, mocking his peers: “I have more followers now. Aren’t we supposed to have a bigger house! Aren’t you supposed to have security! Aren’t you supposed to have a fence! It’s all so dumb.” Instead of tearing down the old house they bought in Malibu, they renovated the thing, but it still didn’t take. At Kathryn’s urging, the two moved back to the surf shack, and he was relieved. “I’m a Dogtown guy!” he said, invoking the 1970s skateboard scene in Venice. For now anyway, the Malibu house is like a very expensive storage unit. I wondered aloud if the rental keeps him

actress he met on a short-lived TV show that was supposed to make him a star, got divorced, and basically took whatever work he could get. For a while, he paid the rent as a day trader, waking up at five in the morning to read the market’s tea leaves before the opening bell. But Brolin couldn’t get arrested. Actually, he was arrested—for spousal battery in 2004. (Then-wife Diane Lane subsequently recanted her story, and charges were never filed.) But he could not seem to land the roles he wanted. On the set of the forgettable Into the Blue, Jessica Alba actually turned to him and said with genuine surprise, “You have chops!” Finally, in 2006, the Coen brothers were looking to cast someone in No Country for Old Men who could convincingly play a Texas welder dumb enough to think he could make off with $2 million in cash from a crime scene. Brolin was desperate to get in the room. He submitted a Hail Mary audition tape, but the Coens passed on the kid from Goonies. His agents were able to get him a courtesy meeting, which he miraculously turned into an offer. Brolin was a revelation in the f ilm: a square-jawed country boy and a true leading man—a unicorn basically in a town overrun by pretty boys. Brolin was like the prodigal son returning home. He then landed an Oscar nomination for Milk in 2009, and—for the first time in his adult life—choices. But he’s still that kid from Paso Robles, the Cito Rat made good.



“I turned down a lot of those big movies, not proudly. I didn’t have the interest at the time.” cuss what he’s doing next, which is a giant question mark hanging over his head right now. “God doesn’t want me to do anything inauthentic right now,” he says. “That’s the overwhelming whisper in my ear.” I get it. He’s 50 now, sober since 2013, and he’s possibly thinking about having another kid. He might go shoot a George Jones/ Tammy Wynette biopic with Jessica Chastain. But for years now he’s also been toying with the idea for a self-referential TV series that has something to do with sobriety and celebrity—an idea he characterizes as potentially “career-ending.” But if you’re going to try to sell your weird, experimental TV passion project, maybe there’s no better time than right now, in the midst of the Summer of Brolin. He’s itching to take more risks. Perhaps Deadpool is an insurance policy, a way to stay in the public eye while rolling the dice elsewhere. He’d been in the mix to play Batman a few years ago, which he won’t address specifically, but he did admit: “I turned down a lot of those big movies, not proudly,” he says. “I didn’t have the interest at the time. I remember Ewan McGregor—I was close with him, he was doing Star Wars, he was doing his third movie or whatever and he’s, like, dying. He’s like, ‘I hate this.’ I heard that whisper from the past.” So what changed? Brolin had to know these action-film roles would wreak havoc on his body. Ryan Reynolds recalls the beating Brolin took on set: “We’d be talking after these violent fight scenes, like, ‘Oh my God, everything hurts.’ It was like behind the scenes at Cocoon. I’m lucky. I’m in a mask. For some of the really intense stunts, my stunt guy is in there. Whereas Josh had to go do that stuff himself.” Before shooting, Brolin spent 12 weeks doing two-a-days at the gym to get into superhero shape. “I did it naturally,” he says. “No steroids. I had guys coming up to me at the gym like”—he whispers—“Half the effort, twice the result. Then they’d walk away. But I had this thing in my head. What if I actually ate clean, worked my ass off… I wonder if I could actually get there?” And perhaps that’s exactly the reason he did it. After all, name a better challenge than playing a young man’s game at 50—and smoking them all. MJ







E V E R S I N C E I R E C E I V E D my

Lost in thought, high above the Shenandoah Valley.

I could decide wherever I wanted to stop. Listen to whatever I wanted to listen to. And by being alone, the world opened up in a way it rarely does when you’re traveling with someone else. People talk to you. You engage locals. Usually, it’ll be nothing more than a hello. But sometimes they’ll share a great story or secret spot. Which is how I found myself completely alone and watching the eclipse from an open hillside in Tennessee’s 82,000-acre Catoosa Wildlife Management Area. I’d chatted up a local hunter the night before, and he pointed me to a recent clear-cut in the woods a few hundred yards away. “I reckon you’ll see it good from out there,” he said. And he was right.

As the moon gradually slid in front of the sun, the green hillside morphed into an eerie silver, then the sky above turned dark as the sun fully disappeared. A few stars popped out. The wind slowed and the temperature dropped. It was as if the world had powered down for a moment. Reset. And then, just as suddenly as things turned dark, the process gradually reversed itself, the world brightening again. When the heat became too much to bear, I hiked with Magnolia to a nearby river for a dunk in a deep pool. Then we got in the car and headed north—back to reality, but with all my worries in the rearview mirror. At least until I unpacked the car.


1. Hardcore History: Journalist Dan Carlin merges history with high drama and excellent narration. 2. More Perfect: This fascinating series looks at benchmark Supreme Court cases and how they still affect us today. 3. S-Town: A tragic tale of misdirected genius, buried treasure, and a mysterious death. 4. Reply All: An examination of our tech-driven world through stories of human drama imbued with an infectious sense of wonderment.


driver’s license, I’ve done my best thinking behind the wheel of a car. Major life decisions all have road trips attached to them. Where to go to college: a fishing jaunt through Montana. Whether to take a job in New Mexico: a ramble along the coast of Maine. Moving to New York and moving in with my girlfriend: an impromptu exploration of some back roads in Colorado’s Rio Grande National Forest. So this past year, when that four-year relationship dissolved in the heat of summer, I did what I always do to work through it: hit the road. At first it was a series of forays into upstate New York, fishing and camping with my yellow lab, Magnolia. Then we ventured further north, to Vermont, as well as a breakneck journey halfway across the country to see family. In August, when my birthday rolled around and I was still choking down the reality of living alone, I grabbed my go bag—a tent, sleeping bag, and dog food—and hopped in the car. It was the weekend of the Great American Solar Eclipse, and so I hightailed it toward Tennessee, the surest place for cloudless weather in the path of totality, where the sun is completely blocked out by the moon. New Jersey. Delaware. Maryland. As I passed through Washington, D.C., I hit rush hour and picked up the weekenders heading out of the swamp. Exhausted, I pulled over in a small Virginia town called The Plains. There, on the deck of Front Porch Market, with Magnolia lying at my feet, I shared a meal with a 60-something couple from D.C., simply because they noticed I was alone and asked to join. They’d been married for 40 years. The next morning, as I began driving through the Shenandoah Valley, I fell in with a line of cars on their way to see the eclipse, too. A sign in the window of one said, “See you in the shadow.” I was in the midst of a communal pilgrimage, although I was perhaps the only person alone in his car—and I couldn’t have been happier. Free from collective decision-making,

The Road Less Traveled— and Way Bumpier RIMROCKER TRAIL, UTAH

NEXT WAVE FAST FOOD THIS YEAR A FLURRY OF NEW FLAVORS ARE HITTING THE MARKET. HERE ARE THE WACKIEST CONCOCTIONS. NACHO FRIES Taco Bell After this limited-time cheesedip-and-fries combo debuted in January, a record 52 million orders were gobbled up. Look for the item’s triumphant return this summer. SAUCED AND LOADED FRIES Jack in the Box A meat-lover’s fantasy, these salty fries are smothered in cheddar and guacamole, then topped with chorizo, carne asada, or chipotle chicken. NASHVILLE HOT FISH Arby’s Coated with a spice blend and Parmesan ranch dressing, this fish contraption tastes just like, well, chicken. DULCE DE LECHE PANCAKES Denny’s This sugar bomb marries cinnamon crumb cake and pancakes. Warm caramel sauce replaces syrup.


PICKLE JUICE SLUSHIES Sonic Drive-In Yes, pickle juice. As a slushie. It’s surprisingly good, and it will definitely leave your tongue an alarming shade of green.

The view from Utah’s 160-mile Rimrocker Trail.

yon that we had stopped at an hour or so earlier. Under radiant stars, I drove us back and Kirk used his headlamp to locate the thing. We set up camp overlooking the valley and constructed a fire with cow pies for kindling. We heated up chili, finished a bottle of Stranahan’s, and, in the morning, threw stones at the wreckage of an ancient-looking car that ADO rested a ways down AH the cliffside. Clearly, we hypothesized, this was an intentional scuttling by thieves, probably bank robbers, looking to disappear the getaway car. Standing there, it felt as if we had been disappeared, too. The juniper- and sagebrushdappled mesa was wholly ours. It was hard to leave. But we did, and by mid-afternoon we’d reached Canyonlands to begin our original adventure—an extra one already under our belts. —BRENT CRANE


NORTH AMERICA’S SCANDINAVIA The fishing village of Newtown, an easy side trip on Newfoundland’s Trans-Canada Highway.



RIDING WITH THE GROM AT T H I S P O I N T, a drive along


days around skating. In Santa Barbara, we headed straight to Skater’s Point. The next day, en route to Hearst Castle, we took a winding detour inland through Los Padres National Forest to the tiny town of Orcutt—just to check out One Way Board Shop. After Carlos bought a hoodie and some stickers for his board, the owner sent us to a small park in nearby Santa Maria that was sandwiched between a Honda dealership and a storage facility. What the road gave us, I realized, was time without distractions. Within the confines of

our small car, we got to just hang out. After a brief stop to skate at El Estero skate park in Monterey, we ventured south to Big Sur. The kid was clearly bummed that there would be a single day of the trip that didn’t involving skating. But I held my ground, explaining that the wild beaches and epic views were going to blow his Brooklyn mind. We drove with the top down, and soon Carlos put his phone down (voluntarily!) and stared out the window. We arrived at the Ventana campground and checked into our glampsite beneath the

Survive the Family Trip ARE WE THERE YET?

1. If renting, upgrade to a minivan. 2. Allow unlimited screen time—until... 3. It’s time to confiscate all screens and play the license plate game and I Spy instead. 4. Pack snacks, lots of them, including some stuff you’d never allow at home. 5. Mad Libs. 6. If you see a roadside attraction, stop. (Historical markers are optional.) 7. Bring a Frisbee. 8. Detour to a river, lake, or beach. Always.


California’s iconic Highway 1 is almost a road trip cliché. But I’m guessing that few people tackled the journey the way we did it in February—by skateboard. No, we didn’t kick, push, and coast the entire 350 miles from Los Angeles to Santa Cruz. But my travel companion was my 14-year-old son, Carlos, who was determined to experience the Golden State that way he believes it was meant to be experienced: By hopping from skate park to skate park to skate park. I wouldn’t dare set foot on a board myself. But I decided to go along with the plan. I thought it might help me better understand my son. The places where he f lourishes— behind a drum kit, away at camp, and especially at the skate park—are not places I can easily enter. Being on the road, I hoped, would make it easier to connect. The fact that we’d be driving a sleek Audi S5 Cabriolet convertible only sweetened the deal. We started at the Venice Beach skate park— one of the best in the world, Carlos told me— set between the boardwalk and the sand. Carlos leaped right in. I took a seat off to the side and watched my son navigate the scene. At first, it looked like chaos. But as the hours passed, I noticed an unspoken code of conduct. Wait your turn. Don’t drop in while someone else is in the bowl. When someone lands a cool trick, bang the bottom of your board against the concrete in appreciation. I could see why skating was so appealing to Carlos, a boy who’d always felt a little bit adrift. Abide by the rules of the park, and you’re in. Making our way north, we planned our

Cruising at Venice Beach’s skate park.




Winding its way through Cherokee and Nantahala national forests, the Cherohala Skyway, a 43-mile ribbon of tarmac that regularly cuts along

BUILD IT CLOSE ENOUGH TO THE ROAD, AND SOMEONE JUST MIGHT COME BIOSPHERE 2, Oracle, Arizona In the ’90s, this three-acre bubble (below) made headlines with its goal of copying Earth’s life systems. Today, it’s been resurrected as a research complex where you can see rain forests and a million-gallon ocean in the Arizona desert. THE SHERMAN TREE, Sequoia National Park, California The world’s largest living tree (103 feet around, 275 feet tall) is adjacent to the two-mile, sequoia-lined Congress Trail.


The Cherohala ranges in elevation from 900 to 5,400 feet in just over 40 miles.


LOUISVILLE SLUGGER MUSEUM Louisville, Kentucky Baseball geeks can tour the ball vault and get a photo next to a 120-foot, 68,000-pound steel replica of Babe Ruth’s bat.

redwoods before eating dinner and watching the sun set at Nepenthe. On the way out of Big Sur we stopped at Pfeiffer Beach, where Carlos schooled me on how to climb the towering rock formations by placing my hands in the crags to get a grip. I knew he was dying to get to Santa Cruz—or more specifically, the Mike Fox skate park. But I also knew that in this moment, under a warm sun with the white caps of the Pacific crashing against the rock where we perched, my son was totally, fully, stoked. And so was I.

L.L. BEAN FLAGSHIP STORE Freeport, Maine Open 24-7 for all of your outdoor needs, this 220,000-square-foot store has its own trout pond, café, and a rare taxidermy display of two bull moose with locked antlers. HOLE N’ THE ROCK, Moab, Utah If the Flintstones had a mansion, it would have looked like this 14-room home carved out of a natural cliff face.


A Moveable Feast, via 4X4 BAJA CALIFORNIA, MEXICO

HIGHWAY TECH ESSENTIALS FOR ANY HAUL A PORTABLE JUMP With enough juice to turn over a V8 engine, the Cobra JumPack XL H2O CPP15000 can start your car and also charge all of your devices, via USB. $170 DIGITAL FLARES Battery-powered and bright enough to be seen a mile away, the puck-like SlimK LED Flare Road Beacons signal your presence to emergency crews and oncoming traffic. $27 for three restaurant, Jazamango, where dishes like pressed lechón are complemented with ingredients brought straight from the surrounding gardens. Cross over to the Sea of Cortez side of the peninsula and on the way there’s wood-fired pizzas at Caffe El Triunfo and, looping back south, Acre, which serves ambitious tasting menus, has an on-site distillery, and recently added 12 treehouses for overnight rentals. In other words, the days of roughing it while on the road in Baja are over. —JEN MURPHY

A spread at Acre, one of Baja’s can’tmiss culinary experiences.

THE SMART DOUBLE-CHARGER The Anker PowerDrive Elite 2 knows the optimum charging protocol for your devices and juices them up quickly—even with two plugged in. $15 A Connected Detector The best way to beat a speeding ticket: Don’t get one. The Escort Max 360C detects X, K, and Ka radar bands, as well as laser signals, and connects to your phone or car’s WiFi to provide real-time info on upcoming speed traps. $650 Voice Control Any Car The Garmin Speak Plus brings Amazon’s voice assistant to your car, even if it’s an old Datsun. The device mounts to your windshield and uses your phone’s data connection for help with directions, music, and more. It’s a dash cam, too. $230



sons to ball games. My dad, an inveterate petrolhead—I recall him tak ing apar t t he block of his ’63 Alfa Romeo in our family room while I watched Battle of the Network Stars—took me to the drag races at Bandimere Speedway and vintage races in Steamboat Springs. The paddocks would be full of priceless cars that normally might sit in

The Triumph TR6,


ready for action.

dustless garages or museums: a Ferrari Dino, the Jaguar XKE, Mercedes 300 SLs, Porsche 356, Corvette Stingray. These machines were meant to be gawked at—but not only gawked at. They had racing numbers on their doors and they were driven wheel-to-wheel by gutsy drivers who weren’t afraid to blow up an engine or plow through a stack of hay bales if they misjudged a hairpin turn. I loved it. And so, 35 years later, when I bought a 1976 Triumph TR6, my dad fast approaching 80 and myself zeroing in on 50, I decided the only way to repay him for my love of cars was with a road trip in the Triumph to a vintage-car race called the International Challenge With Brian Redman. There we could watch grown men and women do their best Phil Hill and Mario Andretti impressions piloting vintage Lolas,

Formula 5000s, and every stripe of production steel on the legendary 4.048 mile track at Road America. From my home in Glencoe, Illinois, the route to the raceway traverses central Wisconsin, where the scenery turns bucolic and a rolling landscape reveals itself in all directions. The air smells sweet. Farm fields sway with the wind, and horses graze in the shadows of faded red barns Middle America at its finest


This driving experien the Triumph TR6 and it’s better to start off Classic Car Rentals U The latter rents cars in California and Las

appreciation of cars. “I’d never drive one those because your balls would be on the street.” As I whiz past a semi, I can’t help but think of my grandpa’s comment as I notice how improbably high it appeared from the vantage of our low-slung Karmann design. I imagine sliding in under the trailer, Smokey and the Bandit–style. The driving is hot, noisy, and surprisingly physical In an era of supercars

The author, his wife, and Thor, their 27-foot temporary home on the road. Opposite page: rafting Montana’s Blackfoot River (top) for brown trout (below).



THRILL RIDE IN THE BIG RIG mised land, before, nor had either of uch time in a motor home. I’d long nated by RVs, for reasons I can’t o the trip was a chance to indulge ty. Over the past decade or so, Airlers have enjoyed a nostalgia-fueled e, in no small part thanks to their m-worthiness. The Thor, I admit, same sex appeal. But it was pretty my, well-designed, easy enough to What more could you want? t morning of fishing, we floated the

1. Do immediately locate the water-tank valves, since all your clean water will drain out if they’re open. 2. Don’t poop in the toilet, especially on a trip with lots of driving (and sloshing). 3. Do be mindful of your RV’s height, and never park next to an awning you can’t clear, like at a Sonic Drive-In. 4. Don’t forget to secure the fridge door before moving. 5. Do stay at a KOA on ice cream night. 6. Don’t run the generator unnecessarily. 6. Do listen to country music.



Blackfoot with guide Ryan Steen. We wanted to start the trip strong, in the event that, left to our own devices, we couldn’t get on fish, a real possibility given our track record. We drifted dropper rigs and pulled one trout after the next from the cold, heavy current. At the end the day, it was a relief to return to the air-conditioned RV, parked at a gas station where we’d met Steen. Motor homes represent something of a quandary, I realized. To travel in one is to reject both camping and sleeping indoors. You’re neither roughing it nor resigning yourself to the comforts of a house or hotel. You’re close to nature, but not too close. They’re easy to mock, sure. But it’s hard to hate the convenience, and the fact that most any public pulloff can become your campsite for the night. It was also fire season, with campfire restrictions in place, so we were still able to grill bratwursts and veggies in the RV’s kitchen. Things did get a bit dicey on our third day, when I accidentally turned down a gravel road,



of the Northwest’s Salish Sea, a series of interconnected waterways and islands that separate Vancouver Island from mainland Canada and the U.S. But thanks to a fleet of 13 driveaboard ferries that run to 13 of the islands in the sea’s Canadian



and, with no place to reverse, had to follow it for 20 miles, until it finally looped back to the highway. But the motor home, and our relationship, was no worse for the wear. The next couple days passed in a blur. We slung streamers after dark in the Bitterroot and hooked pike in the Clark Fork. At dusk under the Darby Bridge, we cast at rising rainbows, and hiked to a mountain stream after wildfires kept us off Rock Creek. We stayed a night at a KOA, where kids splashed in a pool and a guy crooned country songs on a makeshift stage. At the Square Dance Center & Campground, in Lolo, we watched as f loral-clad couples twirled one another on the dance floor. The trip ended where it had begun, on the Blackfoot, with us on the water again before having to catch our flight. The RV hadn’t been the most nimble way to travel, we discovered. But the moment I remember most from those days is not when I hooked a nice fish or made a perfect cast, but when we rumbled onto the highway and I glanced over at Caroline, still not entirely sure whether we were going to die but certain that we were about to have some fun.

In 1879, John Muir and a team of the world’s top explorers set out to map Alaska’s most mysterious, little-seen glaciers. Retracing that journey shows how much has changed— and how much remains the same.

Kayaking in the shadow of the Reid Glacier in Glacier Bay National Park.


In Search of L O S T A L A S K A

ur two-person kayak skimmed the glassy surface of Glacier Bay, the bow pointed like a compass needle at the rocky lump of Russell Island. The sun was out, always a pleasant surprise in southeastern Alaska, and a light mist lingered around the island’s upper half. We’d been paddling for about an hour, but I had no idea how far we’d come or how far we had left to go. My sense of scale hadn’t yet acclimated to the vastness we’d entered—water, sky, and mountains were all I had to work with. Aside from the splash of our paddles and the occasional tap-tapping of sea otters cracking open mussels, all was quiet.

“Will there be anyone else there?” I asked David Cannamore, who was seated behind me. David is a former college athlete who guided kayakers around Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve all day, every day, during the summer. He paddled with the metronomic grace of a professional tennis player volleying against a ball machine and accounted for perhaps 80 percent of our forward progress. “I seriously doubt it,” David said. “I’ve camped a lot of places in this park but never on Russell Island. There probably aren’t even any bears there.” Bears were just one subject I’d never given much thought to back in New York City that seemed to come up again and again in Alaska, such as the quality of rubber boots and recipes for moose meat. Glaciers were another popular topic. As David and I paddled across the silent immensity of Glacier Bay, we were surrounded on all sides by the park’s namesake rivers of ice f lowing down from the mountains. Their frozen innards glowed a phosphorescent blue that eclipsed the cloudless sky above. A few times every hour, the giants discharged ice from their wrinkled faces— crack, rumble, splash—one of nature’s most spellbinding performances. Small white bergs drifted past as we paddled, reminders that the tranquil water beneath us could chill the life out of you in a few minutes. I’d already heard plenty of stories about outdoor adventures in Alaska that had quickly turned into outdoor tragedies. A group of six fishermen casting these same frigid waters not far from shore a few weeks earlier had leaned over to admire a catch and overturned their boat. The four who survived



the cold shock were hypothermic when rescued. You didn’t turn your back on Alaska.

I WAS ROUGHLY TRACKING a path first estab-

lished by John Muir, who literally put Glacier Bay on the map. This was in 1879, and Muir was a little-known conservationist on his first trip to Alaska, years away from founding the Sierra Club. Guided by four Tlingit Indians in a dugout cedar canoe, he pursued reports he’d heard about a bay with a massive “icemountain” at its head. Muir was working with nautical charts assembled by British explorers in the late 1700s, which proved to be wildly inaccurate. They showed a massive, impenetrable wall of glacial ice where the entrance to Glacier Bay is today. By the time Muir arrived, that wall— actually an enormous glacier—had pulled back more than 40 miles, leaving behind a thousand-foot-deep bay. Russell Island marked the farthest reach of his journey, for it was embedded in 200 feet of solid ice, a pebble crushed beneath the leading edge of a glacier that f lowed back up beyond the horizon into Canada. For the next 20 years, Muir returned repeatedly to Glacier Bay and its ever-changing landscape. He constructed a stone cabin at the foot of the majestic Muir Glacier, named in his honor, which due to Muir’s popular newspaper travelogues quickly became Alaska’s top tourist attraction. On his seventh and final visit, in 1899, Muir estimated that the ice wall had retreated four miles. Russell Island was surrounded by open water. Today that ice is 65 miles back from where it was shortly before those first British explorers arrived. My interest in Muir and his glaciers had been aroused when I stumbled upon The Harriman Alaska Series, 12 beautifully printed volumes of writings and photographs by the members of the Harriman Expedition of 1899. This unusual expedition, sponsored by railroad tycoon Edward Harriman, collected two dozen of America’s leading naturalists, including Muir, and swept them off for a summer of scientific excursions along the coast of Alaska. The series serves as a sepia snapshot of Alaska’s natural riches a century ago: bears and whales and fjords and snowcapped

An aerial view of Hubbard Glacier. Unlike most glaciers, which are retreating, Hubbard has been thickening and steadily advancing into Disenchantment Bay.


peaks. Most striking of all, due largely to Muir’s influence, are the hundreds of glaciers, many newly discovered and each as distinct in words and pictures as a snowf lake under a microscope. I asked my friend Melanie Heacox, a former Glacier Bay National Park ranger who still lives near the park, what the best way to visit Muir Glacier was. She suggested a time machine. “The Muir Glacier has retreated 30 miles since the first time John Muir saw it,” she said. This slow death was due in large part to natural causes, since a long cold spell known as the Little Ice Age had allowed the glacier to f lourish just before the British arrived. But climate change was now having a serious impact as well. If I was going to see the ice that had so enchanted Muir, I figured I’d better hurry.

I made my way to Gustavus, the town closest to Glacier Bay, Melanie’s husband, Kim, had convinced me that in order to understand the excitement Muir had experienced on his trips to Glacier Bay, I really needed to do so from the vantage point of a kayak. “You might want to get out on the water alone; it could really be a life-changing experience,” he said. Kim is one of Alaska’s best-known writers, an expert on both John Muir and the national parks, and a serious outdoorsman. I’d never paddled a kayak, or even a canoe, so his suggestion seemed more likely to be a life-ending experience. Kim said he knew someone who’d


Rafters load a helicopter for a flight over the Tweedsmuir Glacier and Turnback Canyon.

with food onto the daily tour boat that makes the 130-mile run up and down Glacier Bay. By mid-morning, we almost did feel like we were traveling back in time. With each mile we sailed north into the bay, the younger the landscape became. Trees shrank in size until they vanished altogether. Mountain goats loitered on scarred rocky faces decorated with patches of green. We eventually reached a chilly, lifeless fjord where for half an hour we idled in front of two adjacent glaciers. The one on the left was the Margerie Glacier, which had replaced the Muir Glacier as the bay’s berg-discharging crowd-pleaser. Every 10 minutes or so, a sound like a shotgun blast rang out and a chunk of ice would calve off its blue face, making a roar and a splash. The glacier to the Margerie’s right, the Grand Pacific Glacier, looked sad by comparison. This was the primary remnant of the ice mountain that had so fired Muir’s imagination, the “one grand fountain” from which all surrounding frozen rivers f lowed. This mighty glacier had once filled and carved Glacier Bay. From the observation deck of the day boat it looked pathetic, like a pile of dirty snow left to melt in the corner of a mall parking lot. After turning south, the day boat pulled into a cove and the captain slowly idled toward the rocky shore, taking us so close that with a running start we could’ve leaped to dry land. (Well, one of us could have.) A deckhand dropped an aluminum ladder from the bow, David and I climbed down, and with help from the boat’s crew we unloaded our gear, bucket brigade style: packs, tents, bear cans, and finally the kayak. The whole process took less than five minutes. Fellow passengers with whom we’d been chatting all day crowded to the edge of the top deck and watched us. The boat backed away. A little girl waved. And then we were alone in the wilderness.

HALF A MILLION visitors come through Glacier Bay on cruise ships each year, and many more would if they could: The National Park Service limits entry to only two large ships each day, in addition to its own tour boats and some smaller vessels. Only a tiny fraction of that number spend the night—568 backcountry campers in 2015, in an area the size of Connecticut. Yosemite, less than a quarter of Glacier Bay’s size, hosted more than 200,000 backcountry campers in the same period. Dav id gave me some basic paddling instructions, pantomimed how to step into our two-person kayak without tipping it over, and demonstrated how to put on a waterproof apron called a spray skirt. “When I’m leading groups, I can pretty much tell it’s going to be a long day when I use the term spray skirt and the guys moan,” he said. “Sometimes I say ‘spray kilt’ instead, to skip the aggravation.” And then, before the strangeness of being abandoned in a giant stone tureen of chilled soup could sink in, we were in the water and paddling. The vastness of the space made us


weather,” David said. The spot was cartoonishly idyllic: a curved, secluded beach with a waterfall that hummed in the background, a rhythm track supporting the massive glacier creaking through its growing pains. David pulled out the tide chart that he kept in his pocket and checked every so often. The tides in Glacier Bay can rise or fall 25 feet, and do so twice each day. We emptied the kayak and carried it up past the fringe of dried seaweed that demarcated the high-water mark. Just beyond that, the bare sand stopped and tall vegetation sprang up suddenly. “Bears like to walk along the tree line,” David said, pacing the strip. “If you look just inside and outside the line, it often looks just like a manicured path from all the traffic.” He found a few old tracks and some ancient-looking scat, which meant we were probably safe. We pitched our tents on a bed of tiny yellow f lowers that crunched under our boots. Geologically speaking, this spot was brand-new. When Muir and the Harriman team sailed past here in 1899, Reid Inlet had been filled with ice. David prepared a pot of lentils on the camp stove and talked about the clever eating habits of some of the animals we’d seen.

A fishing boat plying the waters near the Margerie Glacier in Glacier Bay National Park.

Naturalist, outdoorsman, and Sierra Club founder John Muir.

for shellfish. “Starfish—people think they’re cute, but they’re brutal killers,” he said, holding up a mollusk shell with a hole punched in it. The starfish forces its way into a bivalve’s


feel as if we’d entered another dimension, like Gulliver in Brobdingnag. Row after row of towering dark rock with white caps extended in all directions. The lower hillsides beneath the peaks were a velvety green. The water was blue and clear, except where glacial grinding was doing its work, the rock dust creating pools of what looked like chocolate milk. Since I had no idea what the scale of anything was, I had no idea how fast we were moving. (The answer, I later learned, was “not very fast.”) The motion was rhythmic and satisfying. When I got tired, I f loated while David continued paddling. The kayak would slow down a little. When David took one of his occasional breaks, we slowed almost to a stop. Sometimes we talked, sometimes we put our paddles down to eat a mouthful of trail mix, but mostly we were quiet. As we approached our final turn, the reflection of the sun shimmered on the water’s glassy surface like millions of fireflies. We had paddled for four hours into a relatively strong wind, finally entering into the mouth of Reid Inlet, a two-mile-long cove with a neon-blue glacier anchoring one end. The air chilled and a breeze rose up as we reached the spit of land on which we would be camping. “Every glacier makes its own

A Glacier Bay brown bear.

the winds had died down, and swarms of biting midges and brown flies had converged on camp. I pulled out my mesh bug net and secured my ball cap over it. This, I soon learned, was the exact wrong strategy, since it compressed the net against my forehead, giving the insects a handy place to rest their legs as they bit my face ad libitum. For the next three weeks I wore a line of red dots across my forehead like a doll’s hairline as a scarlet letter, broadcasting my ignorance to veteran Alaskans. The Park Service promotes a “leave no trace” philosophy to Glacier Bay visitors today, but there was a time when even homesteading was possible here. After breakfast, David and I paddled across the cove to what remained of the summer cabin that Muz and Joe Ibach had built around 1939 to trap furs and prospect for gold. When Kim Heacox first paddled through here in 1979, the Ibach cabin had contained enough elements of a preserved 20th-century archaeological site to mount a production of Death of a Salesman: dishes, cutlery, books, playing cards, a table and chair, an old copy of Life magazine. Today all that remained were a pile of planks, three spruce trees planted by Muz, and some of the detritus of long and lonely Alaska days: a 55-gallon drum, a red can of heating oil (advertising “2



cents off ” on the label), one leather shoe. A bear had gathered moss in a pile for a bed and left behind plenty of evidence that it had been subsisting on a diet of mollusks. “That’s got to hurt passing through,” David said, wincing as he toed the sharp-edged shells with his rubber boot. We walked through a patch of tall rye grass that looked like wheat. David said that some early Alaska homesteaders had noticed the similarity and used it to make f lour. Only later did they learn that the grain was infested with a fungus called ergot, which when consumed can have an unpleasant and powerful hallucinogenic effect. “Imagine what a long and strange winter that must’ve been,” he said. While studying the alkaloids produced by ergot in the late 1930s, the Swiss chemist Albert Hoffman first synthesized lysergic acid diethylamide, better known as LSD. We kayaked leisurely across the bay toward Russell Island. A pair of bald eagles perched at the water’s edge on Russell’s south end eyeballed us, a two-on-two staring contest rigged in their favor. Muir had come to this very spot in 1879. Back then, the thousand-foot-high island had been half-embedded in ice, marking “the head of the bay” and the farthest reach of the glacier. “A short time ago,” Muir wrote of the rock, “it was at least two thousand feet beneath the surface of the over-sweeping ice; and under present climatic conditions it will soon take its place as a glacier-polished island in the middle of the fjord.” And so it had. From the seat of our kayak, Russell Island didn’t look like a particularly easy climb even without ice, but Muir in his usual way had managed to scramble to the top for a better view of the Grand Pacific Glacier, the greatest he’d ever seen. Looking north from this spot must have been like sitting in a cathedral of ice.

We spent much of the day paddling a circle around the island, landing at the rocky beach on the north end. The stones ranged from tiny M&M-size scree to massive, sharp-edged hunks of granite the size of large appliances— multi-ton reminders of the pushing power of the ice river that had once plowed through here. Once again we unloaded the kayak, carried it up past the seaweed line, and set up camp. Nature had thoughtfully left behind one flat rock on which to set up the stove, next to another that made an ideal dining table. The weather was probably a little too perfect. With no wind, the midges had returned, so thick that we put on our mosquito nets. We lay down on the stone beach and took in the view. “Wow,” David said. Our campsite was centered, like the bubble on a carpenter’s level, between two rows of snowcapped peaks. The mountains on each side of Glacier Bay converged toward the horizon to frame the Grand Pacific Glacier. What had looked dirty and stunted up close now shone blindingly white in the midafternoon sun. The glacier swirled up deep into Canada. I could finally understand how its ice might be capable of filling this entire bay. “If you get up before the morning’s first cruise ship comes through, have a good look around,” David told me before we crawled into our tents for the night. “At that hour there probably won’t be anyone but us for 20 miles in any direction.” I awoke around four to the pop-pop-pop of bloodthirsty bugs hurling themselves against the liner of my tent. This being midJune in Alaska, sunrise was at 3:51 a.m., so even though some time would pass before the sun cleared the peaks to the east, the day had already broken when I pulled on my knee-high boots and my fine-mesh bug net and walked down to the beach, looking like a pig farmer turned bank robber on a lost episode of Kojak. I sat on a rock abandoned there by a retreating glacier and stared down the fjord. The ravenous midges had been joined by swarms of Alaska’s state bird, the mosquito, and both swirled around my head like commas and periods in the sort of bad punctuation nightmare a grammarian might have after eating hallucinogenic rye grass. The air was chilly, part morning temperature and part glacial cross breezes. Chunks of ice glided slowly past in the water. A high ceiling of cloud obscured the tops of the highest peaks. The day’s first strong sunlight flashed like rosy lightning into the shadows of the fjord, and I thought of Muir’s reaction to the same phenomenon from a nearby vantage point: “We stood hushed and awe-stricken, gazing at the holy vision, and had we seen the heavens open and God made manifest, our attention could not have been more tremendously strained.” I sat down, wrapped my arms around myself, and tried to absorb nature’s magnifi-

A steamship in Glacier Bay circa 1891. Bottom: Tourists gaze at Child’s Glacier.

The Grand Pacific Glacier seen from Tarr Inlet.

I STO O D U P S U D D E N LY and kicked a loose stone down the beach. The noise caught the attention of the moving object, which on further review was a brown bear, perhaps 150 yards away. I tried to gauge its size, but what the hell did I know—this was the first bear I’d ever seen outside of a zoo. The bear and I stared at each other for a moment before it jogged off toward the thick wall of saplings that grew just behind the beach, stopping a few feet short. A second bear emerged from the brush. A


cence. The water was like spilled paint. A pair of harbor seals poked their bowling-ball faces above its surface before diving and leaving concentric rings behind. All down the beach, seaweed-covered rocks glowed brown and gold in the rising morning sun. And then, in the corner of my eye, one of the rocks started moving.

walking backward in borrowed boots on slippery rocks, I retreated toward our tents as the bears watched. I knew that David was expecting to sleep for at least a couple more hours, so it was with perhaps a shade more politeness than was merited under the circumstances that I leaned over his tent and spoke through the nylon. “Uh, David, I really hate to disturb you, but I think there may be two bears down here on the beach.” “I’ll definitely get up for that,” David said groggily. David was someone who didn’t function at peak speed until he’d had his morning coffee. He stepped out of his tent with serious bedhead and wearing baggy pajama bottoms with little wolves on them, looking like a giant second-grader who had awoken at a slumber party bewildered to find himself not in his own home. He had the can of bear spray in hand as we walked down to the beach. “These two look about four years old,” he said as we approached the pair, who sniffed around the rocks near the waterline. “They were probably just recently separated from

Mom. This island has no salmon, no blueberries, so there are no other big brown bears for them to worry about.” We watched them for a couple of minutes. “Those are some skinny, scraggly bears,” David said as he alternated tucking each of his sandaled feet behind the opposite calf to wipe off hungry mosquitoes. “Looks like the population of Russell Island today is two people, two bears, and 2 billion bugs.” I wondered how—and when—they’d gotten here. “Are bears good swimmers?” I asked. “Oh, sure. Bears swim. Moose swim. Deer swim. Wolves swim. If they think there’s something better to be found on another island, they’ll just go.” David hopped up on a rock, clapped his hands, and shouted “Hey, bears!” a few times, in a tone that sounded as though he was trying to be encouraging. The pair walked back into the woods. David scratched his head and turned to look down the fjord. “Wow, look at this view, how the green light on the mountains turns the water emerald green. My favorite moment of the day.” He lifted his bug net for a moment to take in the full spectrum of colors. “Actually, this might be my favorite spot in the park I’ve ever woken up in. And you got to see two bears! How about that?” David set to work at the camp stove making breakfast, unscrewing the food canisters to take out the coffee and cereal. I’d assumed that if I ever saw a bear, I’d evacuate my bowels like



an antelope that spots a lion on the savanna before fleeing, but in the event, I’d been more intrigued than terrified. David said that was pretty normal. “The park biologist here calls it bear-anoia. Beforehand, you’re all worried about gigantic teeth and claws, and then you actually see one and you go, ‘Oh!’ You clap your hands, and it stands up and looks at you and runs away.” The bears walked out of the woods once more, this time a little bit closer. David stood, clapped, and shouted a few times, a little louder than before. “Mark, come stand next to me so we appear bigger,” he said. “We want to look like a super-creature. See, there they go.” Once again, the pair stopped and turned toward the woods. “I think we’ll just make coffee and skip the oatmeal today,” David said, pouring hot water into a water bottle with coffee grounds as the bears slunk off into the alders. One of them paused to look back at us, seemingly less than enthused about returning to the brush, before galloping away. “Facing down a bear is like facing down a drunk: You just have to bluff that you’re tougher than he is,” David said. I sat on the beach waiting for the coffee to steep while David went to fetch his rubber boots. The bears appeared again, but this time they were behind us, only about 30 feet from our tents. “Mark, I think we’ll take that coffee to go,” David shouted from up the beach. “Would you bring the bear spray, please?”

I stood next to David, waving, clapping, and screaming, this time with some edge to it. “Hey, bears!” The bears had the high ground. The bolder of the two had taken a sudden interest in my tent. A memory from yesterday passed through my mind: I had left a Clif Bar wrapper in the bottom of my backpack, hadn’t I? I was relieved when the bear left my tent and ambled in the direction of the kayak. David did not like this development at all. He started screaming so angrily that the vein stood out in his neck. “Get the fuck away from my kayak, you fucking bear!” The bear stood down as if taking offense and went back to sniffing outside the tents. “We have two days’

“We stood hushed and awe-stricken,” Muir wrote, “and had we seen the heavens open and God made manifest, our attention could not have been more strained.” Kayaks wait for guests to head out across the icy waters of Johns Hopkins Inlet in Glacier Bay National Park.

extra food and redundant water sources,” David explained. “But only one kayak.” If a curious bear stepped onto the thin fiberglass shell, it would punch a hole. The possibility of being trapped on this sliver of beach with two bears and one can of spray did not appeal to me, either. I remember this vividly, because I underlined it in my notebook, which, when I pulled it out later, had dozens of midges smushed between the pages. “Are you taking notes?” David asked, his arms waving like semaphore f lags high over his head. “This is my job, dude,” I said, alternating scribbles with hand waves. “Gotta get this stuff down while it’s still hot.” We shouted and waved, shoulder to shoulder, hoping the intruders would get the message. David unlocked the safety catch on the spray. The bolder bear was maybe 30 feet away, while the other hung back. The pair disappeared momentarily into the alders, but then returned right away. “Guess they’re calling our bluff,” David said. “Mark, just throw all your stuff into your tent and drag it down to the beach. We’ll load up quickly and get the heck out of here.” We collected the food canisters and stove, tossed packs and boots into our tents, and retreated like the British at Dunkirk, divebombed by no-see-ums and mosquitoes. My tent snagged on a rock. David snapped a pole. Just as we reached the water’s edge with the last pieces of gear, a gigantic white cruise ship with a sunburst painted on its side glided into view. I imagined the passengers looking through binoculars, wondering why two guys were frantically throwing things into a kayak as they swatted the air in front of their faces. I coincidentally met the pilot of that ship a few days later, and he recalled seeing us from the bridge. “I thought, Man, look at that setup!” he said. “Those guys must be having the time of their lives.” We shoved off, paddled away from shore, and paused to look back. The bears had come down to the water’s edge to hunt for mollusks. David poured very strong coffee into mugs and we watched the brown brothers go about their business. Muir, who always stressed the natural affinities between species over their differences, once observed, “Bears are made of the same dust as we, and they breathe the same winds and drink of the same waters.” “They’re actually pretty cute from this far away,” David said, passing me my lukewarm coffee. “I guess they just wanted to get down to the beach the whole time. But it’s a good reminder about Alaska. You can be in awe of the beauty, but you have to remember that things can go from ‘Ooh, aah!’ to ‘Oh, shit!’ in an instant.” MJ M ARK A DAMS is a writer in New York City. Tip of the Iceberg: My 3,000-Mile Journey Around Wild Alaska, the Last Great American Frontier, from which this story is adapted, is published by Dutton.

CANDLES TO COCKTAILS WE POUR THE SCENT: Make any space your own with our nature-inspired scents.


YOU POUR THE SPIRIT: The best part? Your candle becomes your new favorite rocks glass.

Out here, miles from the traffic jams, every hour is a rush. The vast landscape of Wyoming serves up adventures for everyone. Plan yours with the help of our expert guides and outfitters.

UNICO 20o87 o UNICO is a one-of-a-kind, all-inclusive hotel, that connects you to the youthful pulse of the local culture.

Fueled by pure lump charcoal and constructed of advanced ceramics, Big Green Egg offers precise temperature control. So whether searing at 750 degrees, roasting, baking or smoking low and slow, everything tastes better cooked in an EGG.


96 Less training. Fewer injuries. Same gains.

98 Six drills courtesy of World Cupâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;bound athletes. Just try to keep up.

104 Three new vegetarian cookbooks prove that meatless does not mean bland.

106 Why Mark Wahlberg starts his day at 3:45 a.m. and golfs five days a week.

108 Probiotic supplements make major health claims. Should you swallow?

110 Workplace walkabouts, the power of hand-holding, and the case for 12 nuts a day.

photograph by BRIAN FINKE

JUNE 2018



Slow and Steady There’s a downside to high-intensity weight training—and a better way, says orthopedic surgeon Leon E. Popovitz of New York Bone and Joint Specialists.

Recently, more men are suffering weightlifting injuries such as torn tendons and ligaments, the result of workouts that have them going too hard or too heavy. The fix isn’t to avoid picking up a barbell ever again. Instead, try slow lifts. The idea is to be extra deliberate when you’re moving weight around. There are several upsides. Elongating the lift time forces muscles to sustain a contraction longer, so lifting a lighter load can be just as effective as going heavy. It also makes the whole movement more eff icient. For instance, most people doing deadlifts use gravity to drop the barbell from full extension back to the ground. Doing that same movement in twice the amount of time forces you to re-engage your glutes and core during the back half of the lift. Fewer reps, same benefit. This mind-set requires an attitude adjustment, an acknowledgment that more does not equate with better. Think about why you’re training in the f irst place. Staying healthy as you age matters. In your 40s, blood flow to certain muscles starts to slow, which increases your chance of injury. Musclebuilding encourages circulation, and it doesn’t matter if you can do 20 push presses in a minute or double that. Q


JUNE 2018


Compare & Save




vs. $29.99 for 2.0 lbs.1

Builds Lean Muscle & Strength2 Fast-Absorbing Whey Peptides Micro-Filtered to Remove Excess Fat & Carbs First-In-Class Taste Profile


Premium Gold 100% Whey Protein is the best protein value. Forged using only a cold microfiltration process, there’s absolutely zero denaturation from heat or harsh chemicals. That means you get 24g of extremely high-quality whey protein that your muscles, taste buds and wallet will love. It’s everything you’ve come to expect from the only brand backed by over 22 years of quality and trust. Try it today!


Compared to other whey protein products at specialty sports nutrition retailers. In one groundbreaking clinical study, the key ingredient in Premium Gold 100% Whey Protein helped test subjects build 5.1 lbs. of pure muscle. Burke et al., 2001. International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism. 11(3):349-64. MuscleTech® is America’s #1 Selling Bodybuilding Supplement Brand based on cumulative wholesale dollar sales 2001 to present. Facebook logo is owned by Facebook Inc. Read the entire label and follow directions. © 2018 2




Soccer-Style Agility Drills Strong legs. Fast reflexes. Pure speed. Soccer players boast some seriously covetable athletic attributes. Here's how to get them, even if you never step foot on the pitch. by MARJORIE KORN


JUNE 2018

photographs by BRIAN FINKE

the sheer distance covered in a match (about seven miles), what might be most impressive about soccer players are their razor-sharp moves. A pass fake to thread between defenders, stealing the ball from an opponent dribbling down the field, pulling a 180 to scissor-kick the ball mid-air— all require fast feet and reflexes. Also known as agility. So what is it, exactly? “The basis of agility is acceleration,” says Matt Cook, physical performance coach for Major League Soccer’s New York City FC. “Speed up, decelerate, change direction, reaccelerate.” FORGETTING FOR A MOMENT

Ronald Matarrita TEAM:


It’s something that professional soccer players practice about once a week. (Their scrimmages have agility built in.) It’s different from endurance—and, for the rest of us, an overlooked skill but one that is well within reach. Agility workouts require training at 95 to 100 percent of max effort, meaning you’re getting up to an all-out sprint during every run. To ensure that intensity, sessions have short active periods and long rests. And Cook peppers in sport-specific skills like swerves, cuts, and drop-steps, to mimic on-field action. If a player loses speed, he’s gone into endurance mode, and the workout is over. Agility has obvious benefits on the pitch, but

it’s a necessity for everyone. Going for a trail run requires agility. So does darting out of the way of an oncoming car. And doing agility work at a high intensity may have brain benefits, too. A University of Copenhagen study suggests that working at 90 percent of your max can improve motor memory consolidation—the brain’s ability to retain new motor skills. But back to the game. It’s no coincidence we’ve got football fever, with the World Cup around the corner. So we headed to NYCFC’s new 17-acre training facility in Orangeburg, New York, to learn how two of their Russiabound players train. Grab some cleats, five cones, and a soccer ball—then get ready to run.

Rodney Wallace





















154 lbs


155 lbs

What do you eat before training? Pasta. It’s a huge source of energy. How do you overcome obstacles? If you think about competing against yourself, you’ll become a better player and a better person. Come out to the pitch ready to give the best you have to give, every day. Who motivates you? My mom and my grandma. It’s because of them that I wake up every day and give 100 percent, on and off the pitch. What’s the best advice you’ve received? There was a time when I was feeling a bit down because things weren’t going my way. [NYCFC captain] David Villa told me I am a good player, that I know what I can give on and off the pitch, and that I needed to stay calm and conscious. If you weren’t a pro soccer player, what would you be doing? I’d be an architect. That will be my next career.

How do you prepare for a match? I try to train hard during the week leading up to game day. Eat healthy meals, rest as much as possible, hydrate, and study my opponent. What do you do to recover? My recovery plan consists of cold and hot hydrotherapy, acupuncture, cupping, and massage. What keeps you going? I remind myself I’m blessed to be able to play this game. I think about the joy that it brings me and my family and what soccer has given me. How do you approach and overcome obstacles? It’s all a mind-set. You have to be accepting that there will be obstacles. It’s just about being positive, having goals, staying humble, and looking at the bigger picture. If you weren’t a pro soccer player, what would you be doing? Most likely, I’d be a character in your favorite TV show or movie. MEN’S JOURNAL

JUNE 2018





T-Formation Keep your turns tight as you wind around the cones. Start at cone 1. Sprint and tap 2 with foot. Turn left, and run around 3, sprint to and run around 4, tap 2, and return to 1.



5 yds


1 10 yds


Star Pattern 5

1. Start 4


3 10 yds




Minimally Informed: A











MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S JOURNAL

JUNE 2018




3 The Flying V Since this pattern is simple, really focus on hitting top speed during each segment. Start at 1, sprint to 2, return to 1, sprint to 3, and return to 1.

5 yds 3





JUNE 2018

MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S JOURNAL

BECAUSE THERE ARE NO LIMITS TO WHO I CAN BE My goal: go harder every time. When I think I can’t do another rep, I do one more. That’s why I use HYDROXYCUT® SUPER ELITE. It delivers a scientifically advanced weight loss ingredient, as well as caffeine to enhance focus and boost energy to amp up my training. HYDROXYCUT® SUPER ELITE combines unique ingredients, including huperzine-A and satsuma orange to deliver the ultimate neurosensory experience. The cutting-edge Smart Release Microbead Technology™ encapsulates active ingredients and suspends them in a rapid-dispersing liquid. HYDROXYCUT® SUPER ELITE is my only choice when I hit the gym. Because I’m not looking for good enough. I’m looking for great.




Key Weight Loss Ingredient Backed by Two Studies

10.95 lbs. LOSS


Explosive Energy & Powerful Thermogenesis Extreme Sensory


Smart Release Microbead Technology™


Based on AC Nielsen xAOC sales data for Hydroxycut® caplets. Facebook logo is owned by Facebook Inc. Read the entire label and follow directions. © 2018


you know you need to eat more vegetables. The research is unequivocal. Upping your produce intake has a windfall of health benefits: lower blood pressure, improved brain function, weight loss, reduced risk of cancer. In short, vegetables outperform any vitamin or supplement out there. But the problem isn’t a lack of intel. You’re probably not eating enough plants for the same reason your mom had to force-feed you spinach as a kid: Vegetables can be bland. And they’re easily overcooked, stripping away their best qualities (f lavor, texture). Luckily, vegetables are enjoying a cultural moment. Vegan and vegetarian restaurants have gone from slinging black bean burgers to serving haute cuisine. Athletes and celebs tout their plantsonly diets. And a trove of new cookbooks are making veggies cool. Every cuisine is getting a meat-free reboot— barbecue included. To find out whether eating more vegetables is truly as tasty as it is healthy, we turned to a trio of current cookbooks. What did we learn? It’s not about f inding beefy standins—although we did— but ex per iment ing with f lavors and techniques. Here’s how. E E P D OW N ,


JUNE 2018



Make it: Meaty


from BOSH!



Make it: “Cheesy”


½ lb chopped seasonal vegetables 1 medium yellow onion, chopped g p

½ cup canned lowfat coconut milk 10–15 curry leaves (buy on Amazon) 1-inch ginger root, peeled and chopped 2 tbsp vegetable oil In a large pan, boil 3 cups of lightly salted water; add vegetables, onion, cardamom, and cinnamon. Reduce heat and simmer until vegetables are soft, 10 minutes. Using a

ladle, remove excess water, then slowly stir in coconut milk. Add curry leaves and simmer 1 minute. In a small pan over medium heat, saute ginger in the vegetable oil until fragrant, 1 minute. Transfer ginger to vegetable mixture, remove cinnamon stick, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Make it: Flavorful

JUNE 2018


Wicked Strong

Wahlberg stars in and co-produced the upcoming action movie Mile 22, which hits theaters in August.

How does Mark Wahlberg—actor, producer, athlete, businessman, father—get it all done? For starters, he wakes up earlier than you do.

Time Management Nothing impedes on family time, so I sacrifice my mornings. Breakfast is at 3:45 a.m., by 4 I’m training, 5 a.m. is prayers, and I’m golfing at 6. Thursdays are for recovery, and Sunday is the Lord’s Day. I thrive on the grind.

Downsizing In the movie Invincible, I played a walk-on for the Philadelphia Eagles—a role that requires you to be a pro athlete. At the time, I was traveling with two full-length trailers filled with equipment. At the beginning of camp, I pulled a quad muscle. That took a week to heal. Then I pulled a hamstring. There was a trainer on set, Brian Nguyen, who oversaw the arena football players, having them train for speed and agility. I was hooked on his method. What used to be two trailers now fits into two duffel bags.

Fighting Shape My workouts start with RAMP, which stands for range of motion, activation, and movement prep—things like Spiderman stretch and hip bridges, plus foam rolling. Then we switch between bilateral and unilateral strength moves using mostly heav y bands, TR X, dumbbells, and kettlebells. The lower body work includes balance and agility drills.

Clean Fuel I used to be the type of guy who ate a whole rotisserie chicken for lunch. Chef Lawrence Duran changed that. The menu is mostly ketogenic—fresh greens, clean protein, healthy fats—avocado, almonds, olive oil. I use Performance Inspired supplements (the line I cofounded) to help bulk up when I need to. And most days I’ll have a bar, or a recovery shake, which includes BCAAs. If it was a heavy-lifting day, I’ll have an extra scoop of protein powder.

“It’s hard to fill a cup that’s already full.” I tell myself that a lot—it’s a willingness to evolve, to empty out what isn’t working and try new things. I want to seize my 1 percent. Q 106

JUNE 2018



Can-do Attitude

Pass the Red T O S AY YO U S H O U L D skip the Gatorade and pass the cabernet might be an overstatement, but only slightly. Wine has some surprising health benefits, particularly for heart health. And these may translate to better athletic performance. For starters, wine is a good source of polyphenols; these compounds give the red varieties their ruby hue. A review of research

from the University of Auckland in New Zealand finds that polyphenols—particularly one called quercetin, which accumulates as grapes soak up the sun—have properties that are particularly useful for athletes. “Polyphenols may increase performance at the cellular level by improving mitochondria function—the powerhouse of human cells that is responsible for energy function,” explains study author Vaughan Somerville. They could MEN’S JOURNAL

also help your heart and improve blood flow, adding to your cardio capacity during hard exercise. Plus, they’re an anti-inflammatory. A glass of red contains about a quarter of the polyphenols you need in a day, so feel free to have a pour most nights as well as nosh on blueberries, spinach, and dark chocolate, and sip green tea, all of which contain the compound. (No surprise that too much alcohol hurts your athleticism—and the rest of your health.) Not into wine? It seems that alcohol in general can help your heart. A study from the New England Journal of Medicine that followed 50,000 healthy men for 12 years found that those who had at least three adult beverages a week lowered their heart attack risk, probably due to ethanol, a main component of alcohol. It’s best to lay off the booze the night before a big race, but it’s now safe to call steak and red wine a recovery meal. Q 107


Probiotic Supplements Claiming to treat everything from stomachaches to obesity, they’re now the third-most popular nonvitamin supplement in the U.S. Do they deliver? by TULA KARRAS

Yes…for specific conditions.

Yes…if you’re on antibiotics.


No…if you’re healthy.

Different bacterial strains are more effective for certain conditions (stomach issues, infection), so buy specific to your needs. Also look for:


JUNE 2018


Health News Stand More, Weigh Less

If being stuck at your desk feels like slow death, you’re right. Healthy Australian office workers who went from sitting to standing for most of the day, and added in walk breaks, after a year saw healthier blood pressure, lower total cholesterol and triglycerides (a type of fat in the blood), and decreased body fat and waist circumference. Consistency is key: Think of this as a lifestyle change. Get a standing desk, and set multiple reminders to take strolls around the block or to climb some stairs.

2 millimeters

PUTTING THE WATCH IN SMART WATCH No one will notice if you skip your morning workout, right? Wrong. Your tracker knows. A study from Duke University found that people who were diagnosed with heart disease and used Fitbits and a health-coaching app were significantly more likely to continue following the health and exercise program versus those who were working out solely on doctor’s orders. “After three months, the tracker group decreased their exercise by only 16 minutes a week, while the traditional-care group fell off by almost two hours,” says study co-author Brian Duscha, who calls the devices “friendly policemen.” This might seem intuitive—smart watches buzz at you if you’ve been sitting too long. But it actually opens the door to more health possibilities, such as better eating, weight management, blood pressure reduction, and medication reminders. “Pairing a wearable device with health coaching provides a feedback loop of goal setting, monitoring, motivating, and educating,” Duscha says. 110

JUNE 2018


THE SNACK THAT FIGHTS CANCER Even among healthy foods, nuts are VIPs. They contain heart-supporting fats and musclebuilding protein, and are super-satisfying. Another selling point: They could help prevent cancer. Men who ate at least three servings of nuts a week saw their colorectal cancer risk drop 72 percent. Nuts’ bioactive compounds, antioxidants, and phytochemicals may be credited for the anticarcinogenic effects, notes study author Jeeyoo Lee at the Seoul National University College of Medicine. The amount you need to see benefits is small—about 12 almonds. So don’t go nuts.


Size of the Lyme disease–carrying nymph black legged tick, especially common during warmer months. If you get bitten, time’s on your side: It takes 36 to 48 hours for the tick to transmit the disease-causing bacteria. To remove, grasp with fine-tipped tweezers as close to your skin as possible. Pull directly up. Clean skin and hands with rubbing alcohol.


What are PRP injections?

To make a painful experience— things like an IV insertion to a broken arm—not so bad, hold on to your partner’s hand. Research from the University of Colorado at Boulder that used electroencephalography (EEG) to measure brain wave activity found that physical contact with a loved one helps diminish the hurt, likely because it causes brain waves to sync up, allowing the person in discomfort to tap into the other person’s calmer state, a phenomenon that’s known as interpersonal synchronization. “You may express empathy for a partner’s pain, but without touch it may not be fully communicated,” according to cognitive neuroscien-



THIS DOUGHNUT WILL MAKE YOU SAD It may taste good a study in Molecu that a diet high in and saturated fat c inflammation in areas of the brain responsible for mood. Such inflammation leads to neural changes related to anxiety and depression. It could very well be a negative feedback loop, where eating junk food makes you depressed, which leads you to comfort yourself with more crappy food, which makes you feel even worse. Bottom line: Use unsaturated fats like olive oil in lieu of butter when possible, and choose foods without a ton of sugar. And lay off the Krispy Kremes.

If you’re lifting to build strength, you don’t have to do it as often as you’d think. A study published in The Journal of Strength and nditioning Research found that men o weight trained three days a week t just as strong as those who lifted ce that amount, as measured by their e rep max—so long as the total ekly volume and intensity were ual. This is particularly useful info for ose who want to introduce more nditioning or recovery into their hedule. This research shows you can uble down on your lifting days to rk it all in. However, if your aim is to t bigger, the extra sessions could still p. “Frequent stimulation may be re beneficial when it comes to gains muscle mass,” says Bill Campbell, an exercise physiology expert at the University of South Florida in Tampa.

MEN’S JOURNAL (ISSN 1063-4651) is published monthly 12 times a year by Weider Publications LLC, a division of American Media Inc., 4 New York Plaza, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10004. Periodical Rates Postage Paid at the New York, NY, Post Office and at additional mailing offices. Copyright © Weider Publications LLC 2018. All rights reserved. Canada Post International Publications Mail Sale Agreement No. 40028566. Canadian B.N. 88746 5102 RT0001. All materials submitted become the sole property of Weider Publications LLC and shall constitute a grant to Weider Publications LLC to use name, likeness, story, and all other information submitted of the person submitting the same for any and all purposes and cannot be used without permission in writing from Weider Publications LLC. Men’s Journal is not responsible for returning unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, letters, or other materials. Weider Publications LLC and American Media Inc., publisher of Men’s Journal, do not promote or endorse any of the products or services advertised by third-party advertisers in this publication. Nor does Weider Publications LLC or American Media Inc. verify the accuracy of any claims made in conjunction with such advertisements. Subscription rate is $24.00 for 1 year in USA; in Canada, $34.00 for 1 year. Outside of USA and Canada, $45.00 for 1 year. U.S. orders outside of USA must be prepaid in U.S. funds. For customer service and back issues call toll-free (800) 677-6367 or write to: Men’s Journal, P.O. Box 37207, Boone, IA 50037-0207. SUBSCRIBERS: If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. U.S. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS (see DMM 507.1.5.2). NON-POSTAL and MILITARY FACILITIES: Send U.S. address changes to: Men’s Journal, P.O. Box 37207, Boone, IA 50037-0207. CANADA POSTMASTER: Send address changes to American Media Inc., P.O. Box 907 STN Main, Markham, ON L3P 0A7, Canada. From time to time we make our subscriber list available to companies that sell goods and services by mail that we believe would interest our readers. If you would rather not receive such mailings, please send your current mailing label to: Men’s Journal, P.O. Box 37207, Boone, IA 50037. Manuscripts, art, and other submissions must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Printed in the USA.

illustration by MICHAEL HOEWELER


JUNE 2018


Billy Bob Thornton What’s the best advice you’ve ever received? Johnny Cash told me one time, “If you know you have it, if you know you know something, don’t listen to anybody.” What drove you as a kid? I was severely dyslexic, so I was just kind of known around school as a moron. Nobody really encouraged me. Dyslexia drives you, because you’re trying to overcome this thing. They’ve found that a lot of people with dyslexia and OCD, which I also have, are high achievers in things like the arts, or writing, or whatever, because you compensate in other ways. You also suffered terrible abuse by your father. How did you get past it? It wasn’t that out of the ordinary to get your ass beat by your dad when I was growing up. But the thing is that I loved my dad. One thing I have always had is the capacity for forgiveness—there are only three or four people on this planet that I would never forgive, but he’s not one of them. You struggled for years as an actor and didn’t get your big break until you were in your 40s. What was that like? I think my biggest strength was ignorance. I just didn’t know any better. I always thought, “Tomorrow’s the day.” Do you ever wonder what it would have been like if you’d got your break in Hollywood as a young guy? If I had made it when I was in my 20s, I think I would have grabbed everything I could. And there’s no telling where I would have ended up.


JUNE 2018

I read somewhere that your mother worked as a psychic. I grew up in the South in the ’60s. Once, a KKK guy came over to our house and threatened my mom, because evidently she was working with the devil or something. She helped the police sometimes. She told me things that nobody in the world could possibly know, because they were only in my head, so I’ve got to believe in it. What role does religion play in your life? I’m not what you’d call a traditional religious person. We went to the Methodist church—every Sunday you put on your little creepy suit with your clip-on tie and went to church. But it wasn’t like I paid any attention. Hardcore Christians and atheists—they both say they know exactly what the deal is. Anybody who says, “I know what happens,” I don’t believe them. That’s kind of my religion. MEN’S JOURNAL

How should a person handle getting older? I look at every day like I’m still 19 and I’m looking for my break. I think you have to keep that spirit about you. One of the hardest things about being successful is that you’ve kind of realized your dreams—it can make you sit on your ass too much. You’ve been divorced a bunch of times. What has that taught you about relationships? I don’t think I was meant for marriage at the times when I did get married, but the people were really cool, and they were good to me in one way or another, and good for me in one way or another. They kind of wanted to get married, and I thought, “Well, that’s what they want to do.” I remember getting married one time because I didn’t want anybody else to have her. It was like in self-defense. What advice would you give to the younger you? Sticks and stones can break my bones, but words can never hurt me. I’d say: Really follow that. —INTERVIEW BY SEAN WOODS


You’re also a singer-songwriter. What’s more satisfying: acting or music? You can’t really compare them—the feeling you get from them is so different. There’s a feeling you get when you do a great scene, but it’s nothing like when you’ve really been on in a concert, and you come offstage—it’s this high. With music,

you immediately know. It’s kind of like stand-up comedy—if they start laughing, you know you’re funny.