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a way of life
a way of life
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C A S T E L L A N A M A D R I D S PA I N
A way of life Madrid is a city strongly focused on tourism. Its streets breathe vitality, art and culture, inviting anyone who visits to arrange plans diﬃcult to imagine in any other Spanish or international destination. The number of annual visitors to the city now exceeds 8 million. They come to enjoy this diverse and multi-faceted metropolis whose appeal never ceases to grow thanks to the drive for excellence within the tourism sector along with the constantly expanding leisure options and a complete overhaul of the cultural calendar. The local government is committed to promoting and raising awareness of its cultural heritage and of the plethora of shopping, culinary, hotel and leisure options Madrid has to oﬀer. This commitment translates into initiatives such as the publication of this guide, in which you learn many reasons why this city has become one of the five most visited capital cities in Europe. The 170 plus pages contained in this guide to promote Madrid reveal the city’s many tourist attractions, some of which are unique. Its readers will discover that Madrid has a beach, to be found in Madrid Rio, the new green heart of the city centre, or that each district has its own identity, and that Madrid has restored several of its major historical cultural locations, such as CentroCentro, Matadero Madrid and the Conde Duque centre. Other aspects of Madrid you will discover in this guide include the Art Walk, which never closes; and other facts, such as that culture is thriving on the streets, manifested in a thousand diﬀerent ways; that in few places is it as easy as in this city to find nature forming part of the urban landscape; that it is possible to sample fine cuisine, either from Spain or from any other corner of the world. Also note that there are traditional marketplaces and signature state-of-the-art markets where you can call in for a bite; that the outdoor cafés are not just for summer; that shopping is more convenient thanks to the pedestrian areas; that it is possible to sleep in palaces, or in charming hotels; or that Madrid is just a short journey away from many other UN Heritage sites. The modern, sustainable and leading-edge capital that Madrid has become could not miss the opportunity to promote its tourist attractions with an innovative guide, like the one you now have in your hands. This is a practical guide with plans for every month of the year, for every day of the week and for every hour of the day, to suit everyone’s pocket, taste or mood. Because this is Madrid: a diverse city which constantly innovates and reinvents itself to delight and satisfy anyone in search of a diﬀerent lifestyle.
ART AND CULTU-
ON THE ROOFTOPS Reach up to the sky from the terrace of the Hotel Urban.
2>=C4=CB a way of life
010 About Madrid Our tourist information services are here to help you make the most of your visit.
015. Highlights Published by: Madrid Visitors & Convention Bureau (Madrid MV&CB). Deputy Mayor's Office. Madrid City Council.
Chairperson: Miguel Ángel Villanueva. CEO: Ignacio Fernández. Managing Director: Mar de Miguel. Head of Tourist Promotion and Destination Management: Miguel Sanz. Director of Publications and Content: Carlos Menéndez Editing: Silvia Roba, Ignacio Vleming, Isabel Morales, Fernando Pretus, Anne-Lise Leclerc, Judith Grayland. Marketing: Caroline Tensi and Verónica Casares. Director of Business Development: Mercedes Posada. Production: La Factoría. Valentín Beato, 48 – 3ª planta. 28037 Madrid. Tel.No.: 915 386 118 Director of La Factoría: Virginia Lavín. Assistant director: Javier Olivares. Project Manager: Ángel L. Esteban. Original design and Art direction: José Antonio Gutiérrez. Layout Manager: Pedro Díaz Ayala. Texts: Txema Ybarra, Anabel Vázquez, Beatriz H. Cembellín, Francis Pachá, Claudio Martín, Rosana Torres, Gloria Montero. Print edition: Paola Pérez (director), Rosa García Villarrubia, Ángel Manzano. Photography: Luis Rubio, Chus Eto, Alberto Ortega, Roberto Iván Cano, Adolfo Callejo, Javier Morán, Ofelia de Pablo, Juan Lafita, Daniel Alea, Alfredo Arias, Javier Mantrana, AGE FOTOSTOCK, CORDON PRESS, EFE, EL PAIS, FOTOTECA, GETTY IMAGES, IBERIMAGE, FIROFOTO Madrid VCB. Illustrations: Jaime Martínez (main maps p.6-7, p.40-41, p.134-135), Alberto García (route maps). Production Director: Francisco Alba. Printing: Palgraphic. Legal Deposit: M-48914-2011. Cover: Royal Palace Photo: © Paolo Giocoso/SIME/FOTOTECA The information may have been modified after this edition went to press. Readers can find updated information on the website www.esMADRID.com.
12 essentials for 2013, a monthby-month report on the events you shouldn’t miss this year.
023. 7 days / 7 plans There are a thousand and one things to do in Madrid every day of the week. Check out these plans we’ve organized to suit your preferences or mood.
039. Take your pick Suggestions for all the family in Madrid’s enchanting districts and neighbourhoods. 039. ART & CULTURE Discover the Art Walk, Royal Madrid, the Golden Age, new locations, galleries and the major urban landmarks. 063. FOOD & DRINK Savour the most traditional dishes and the latest signature cuisine; delight in the art of snacking on tapas washed down with a glass of wine or beer; and make the most of the cocktail trend which is all the rage. 079. SHOPPING Something for everyone, at
aﬀordable prices, any day of the week. Wander the streets of Madrid as you shop to your heart’s content. 099. FUN & GAMES By day, in the evening or at night. Sports, shows and nights that turn into mornings. 121. AS A FAMILY The big city takes care of entertainment for the youngest members of the family. There is a whole world waiting to be discovered. 133. GREEN MADRID Historical parks, secret gardens, pedestrian areas and sunsets. 145. GAYFRIENDLY MADRID Madrid welcomes everyone and is noted as a global example of diversity. 153. SLEEPING A great variety of options for an unforgettable stay. 161. DAY TRIPS Short excursions around Madrid and high-speed getaways by AVE to major Spanish cities.
167. Services Access by air, rail and road. City transport, weather, opening hours, bank holidays, accessibility, where to find Wifi areas and several maps of Madrid to help you get around the city as you please.
LG BT ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
54. CONDE DUQUE
109/138. PRINCESA 102/122/136. CASA DE CAMPO For a day out with the family, come and discover Madrid’s green lung.
Museums, wine bars, alfresco dining and trendy shopping around the former Barracks.
Shopping, films in their original language and tree-lined avenues, from Moncloa to Plaza de España.
51/84/106/141. GRAN VÍA/SOL Pedestrian areas and musicals invade the city centre’s main shopping street.
44/70/72/116/139. HAPSBURG DISTRICT Relive the history of the city as you wander the streets, from Plaza Mayor to the Royal Palace.
57/102/134. MADRID RÍO Discover the city's newest green area - it's great for walking and cycling.
65/72/82/116/118. LA LATINA The epitome of the art of the tapa. The little squares and taverns are always packed to the brim.
139. CHAMBERÍ Small palaces, public squares, good restaurants and art galleries. Savour the local life.
56/100. CASTELLANA From Colón to the Cuatro Torres, calling in at the Bernabéu; this avenue has it all.
70/72/139/141. MALASAÑA You’ll be blown away by its alternative scene, by day and night.
72/80. SALAMANCA Shopping around Serrano is an unmissable experience.
A modernist style and elegant atmosphere. Pubs, shopping and charming streets.
70/72/146 CHUECA Diversity is the name of the game in this welcoming neighbourhood which reinvents itself constantly.
103/122/136. RETIRO A green oasis in the heart of the city. Walk, cycle or skate around it.
40/154. THE ART WALK
46/72/84. LITERARY QUARTER
From Cibeles to Atocha, the city’s most important museums flank this beautiful tree-lined boulevard.
A host of possibilities suggest themselves as you walk from Plaza de Santa Ana to Calle Huertas.
The most exotic flavours in this most traditional of neighbourhoods. A multicolor atmosphere.
un estilo de vida The best of Madrid on your iPad FREE FROM THE APP STORE*
Whatever your tastes, this is where you'll find all the latest in art, culture, gastronomy, night life, new venues, family activities, sport, LGBT, and much more. Get â€˜gu!aMadrid12â€™ from the App Store. *Application only available in Spanish. For the online version in English go to: www.esmadrid.com/madridguide
TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES If you're coming to enjoy a few days in Madrid remember that, as a tourist, you have a wealth of resources at your fingertips, from information centres and websites through to a wide range of benefits and routes for exploring the city.
TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES PLAZA MAYOR TOURIST CENTER Plaza Mayor, 27 (Casa de la Panadería. Ground Floor) Tel. 91 454 44 10. Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm firstname.lastname@example.org The first stop for tourists arriving in Madrid is the central tourist information oﬃce in Plaza Mayor. This modern centre located in Casa de la Panadería has everything you need to know about the capital's cultural and leisure attractions and can supply you with all kinds of information. Services include specialist assistance, ticket sales for the Oﬃcial Guided Tours programme, a Remember Madrid point with information about the various tourist loyalty programmes, self-service consultation, technology area (audiovisual information, free Internet access, Wifi zone, free downloadable audioguides, personalised leaflets and virtual map), special service points providing information in Asian languages and Russian, as well as a range of accessible services.
COLÓN TOURIST CENTER Located in a former underground passage between Calle Génova and Calle Goya Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm This tourist oﬃce provides the following services: face-
to-face and specialist assistance, self-service consultation, Remember Madrid (information on tourist loyalty programmes run by Madrid City Council), technology area (audiovisual information, free Internet access and Wifi zone) and a Learn Spanish information point with specific information for people interested in learning the language. An outdoor screen in the middle of the street displays a daily city and cultural calendar.
OTHER INFORMATION POINTS *Plaza de Cibeles *Plaza del Callao *Paseo del Arte (on Calle Santa Isabel, next to the Reina Sofía Museum). *Madrid-Barajas Airport: Terminal 2 (arrivals hall) and Terminal 4 (arrival halls 10 and 11).
SATE FOREIGN TOURIST ASSISTANCE SERVICE Leganitos, 19 Incidents Tel. 902 10 21 12 Mon-Sun: 9am-12 midnight email@example.com SATE oﬀers foreign tourists visiting the city personalised assistance in the event of any incident that requires them to visit a police station. The service is operated by specialist staﬀ. Tourists are given help with reporting the incident and with completing any other paperwork relating to their situation. Visitors and their families are also oﬀered counselling if they need it.
LOYALTY PROGRAMMES Taking part in the loyalty programmes run by Madrid City Council gives you the chance to discover the city in a diﬀerent and enjoyable way. When you join the Discover Madrid Club and take part in the Oﬃcial Guided Tours programme, you'll also be eligible to enjoy a series of additional benefits. Snap Madrid gives you two routes for photographing monuments and suggested locations, and Snap Madrid Río takes in a series of bridges over the Manzanares River. Once you've completed them, you get a souvenir of the city. A tour specially designed for families, Madrid: A Family Experience, enables parents and children to discover Madrid through educational games and puzzles while they follow three self-guided routes. Visitors who register on the database will also be kept up to date on all the news and tourist products that match their profile.
OFFICIAL GUIDED TOURS All year round and as part of its Oﬃcial Guided Tours programme, Madrid City Council runs a wide variety of sightseeing tours in diﬀerent languages (Spanish, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Japanese and Dutch). You can choose from: *Routes by bike *Family tours and storytellers *Unmissable: -Essential Madrid I: Hapsburg and La Latina -Essential Madrid II: Cervantes and the Literary Quarter -Essential Madrid III: El Retiro and the Art Walk *Specially adapted tours for people with physical, sensory or intellectual disabilities
Whenever you see this stamp in the magazine, it means there is a guided tour that passes the exact spot mentioned on that page.
Find out more about the Oﬃcial Guided Tours programme, prices and sales points on: www.esmadrid.com/oﬃcialguidedtours
ESMADRIDMAGAZINE A free monthly publication in Spanish and English, featuring the highlights from the month's cultural calendar, plus interviews and reports on Madrid's temporary and permanent entertainment options. You can pick up a copy of the magazine at any of the city's tourist centres and information points, as well as in leading hotels, restaurants, shops and cultural centres. It is also available for download from
MADRID CITY TOUR Madrid City Tour is probably one of the simplest and most comfortable ways of getting a feel for the city. All you have to do is buy a ticket, hop on the bus, put your headphones on to listen to the audioguide, sit back and enjoy the streets, monuments and places of interest, with the advantage that you can hop oﬀ wherever you feel like it. Tickets are valid for one or two days, depending on your chosen rate, and you can get on and oﬀ the bus as many times as you like along route one, route two or both. Madrid City Tour has audioguides in 14 languages (Spanish, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian, Japanese, Dutch, Chinese, Arabic, Catalan, Basque and Galician)
Tel. 902 02 47 58 (24 h) Times: March-October: 9am-10pm November-February: 10am-6pm Ticket sales: buses, hotels, travel agencies, MCT Information Centre (Calle Felipe IV, next to the Prado Museum) and on www.madridcitytour.es More information and prices: www.esmadrid.com/en/madridcitytour
Sol. The final stretch rejoins Paseo del Prado and takes you to the Botanical Gardens, then on to the Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza museums. The extended version of this route, which runs twice a day (4.40pm and 8.40pm), goes to Madrid Río and the Moncloa area.
ROUTE TWO The second Madrid City Tour option starts at the same place, next to the Prado Museum, but in this case it travels along the city's main arteries, Castellana, Prado and Recoletos, and through neighbouring streets. One of the most spectacular buildings lining this route is Cibeles Palace, but there are other striking landmarks in the Castellana area as well, such as Marqués de Salamanca Palace, Nuevos Ministerios, the AZCA shopping centre and the Santiago Bernabéu football stadium. The bus also passes through the Salamanca district, with its designer boutiques and the Lázaro Galdiano Museum. Finally, the route takes in Puerta del Sol and the Spanish parliament building, Congreso de los Diputados, before arriving at the last stop in Plaza de Neptuno. This second route also operates an extended version twice a day (4.50pm and 8.50pm), which includes these sights plus the new Cuatro Torres Business Area, with the city's tallest buildings, before returning via Las Ventas bullring.
WWW.ESMADRID.COM Madrid City Council's website is packed with everything you need to know about tourism, leisure and business in the city. This essential guide oﬀers detailed information about services, monuments, museums and other must-visit places, together with a comprehensive tourist information database (hotels, restaurants, shops, etc.) and a calendar of cultural events taking place in Madrid (exhibitions, theatre, sport and much more).
ROUTE ONE Calle Felipe IV, next to the Prado Museum, is the starting point for this route that takes you to Puerta de Alcalá, followed by the Prado-Recoletos artery, the location of the Neptuno and Cibeles fountains, before continuing up Gran Vía. The bus travels along this main thoroughfare towards Plaza de España, passing in front of the Temple of Debod, until it reaches the old part of the city, where you'll discover the Royal Palace, La Almudena Cathedral and Puerta del
MADRIDSHOP Plaza Mayor, 27 Tel. 91 541 01 85 Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm MadridShop is the city's oﬃcial store. Inside, it is designed to represent and promote Madrid life and place it within visitors' reach. The shop interior features recycled, sustainable and energy-saving materials that are environmentally-friendly and is completely accessible to people with reduced mobility. You can find the perfect memento of your trip here: music, books, audiovisual items and much more. This is also the place to get your MadridCard, the essential city pass.
MADRIDCARD Have the city at your fingertips with MadridCard. The key to discovering secrets of the city. This sightseeing pass enables you to make your way around Ma-
drid easily, enjoyably and with minimum fuss. For a very reasonable price, it entitles you to discounts in shops and restaurants, on the Essential Madrid tour in the Official Guided Tours programme, and on entry fees to over 50 museums. You also get preferential entry to the Prado and Reina Sofía museums, the Royal Palace, the Bernabéu Tour and the Wax Museum, which saves you having to queue. Along with this tourist card, you get a guide in Spanish, English, Italian, German and French with a map of the city and everything you need to know about MadridCard partner museums, services and establishments (restaurants, cafés and shops). Depending on the fee you choose to pay, MadridCard can be used for 24, 48, 72 or 120 hours. Special children’s prices available. You can buy MadridCard in the MadridShop, located inside the Plaza Mayor tourist office, and on the Internet. See more information on www.madridcard.com.
WHAT'S ON 16-21 IT'S OFFICIAL: YOU SIMPLY CAN'T GET BORED IN MADRID YOU'LL ALWAYS HAVE THE BEST CHOICE OF THINGS TO DO IN YOUR SPARE TIME: ART, THEATRE, MUSIC, SCIENCE, SPORT, SHOPPING AND MUCH, MUCH MORE. HERE ARE 12 EXAMPLES OF WHAT YOU COULD BE DOING IN 2013.
Highlights GET OUT YOUR DIARY AND MAKE A NOTE: MADRID OFFERS YOU AN UNMISSABLE EVENT FOR EVERY MONTH OF THE YEAR. YOU'LL FIND ALL KINDS OF THINGS, FROM CULTURE AND SPORT THROUGH TO FOOD AND DRINK.
KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
ANUARY Quick, the sales are on! When the Christmas lights are switched oﬀ and the city seems to go into winter hibernation, along come the sales to liven up the streets again (sometimes even earlier). At this time of year everyone flocks to the shops in Gran Vía, Serrano and Salesas (page 80), a ritual that is repeated with the arrival of summer and the change of
season. You'll also find attractive discounts all year round in outlet centres such as Las Rozas Village (page 92) and in themed street markets. >WHEN: From
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS THEM: You'll
best prices on the best products.
EBRUARY Passion for collecting at ARCOmadrid This year, Spain's largest contemporary art fair is expected to attract 200 galleries and 3,000 artists from all over the world, oﬀering a tour of the latest art trends. Now's the time to make a start on your own collection. >WHEN: From
13 to 17 February.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: Amazing
art coupled with some fantastic activities.
ARCH The Real opera house hits the high notes As they do every season, the Teatro Real opera house is organising a full operatic programme that this year includes a performance of Les pêcheurs de perles (The Pearl Fishers), one of Bizet’s most exotic operas. Famous tenor Juan Diego Flórez will be singing the role of Nadir, a fisherman passionately in love. This three-act opera is conducted by Daniel Oren. Mozart’s Don Giovanni is due to be staged in April. >WHEN: 25,
28 and 31 March.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The
quality of the show and the grandeur of the stage.
PRIL The pace picks up at the Madrid Marathon Commonly known as Mapoma, this year the race is part of the Rock 'n' Roll Marathon Series, the world's biggest city running circuit. Are you up for it? There will be live music on over 20 stages, plus a finish line concert. >WHEN: 28
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It
will be an entertainment-packed route, with music and performances.
AY Tennis aces Since 2009, the Mutua Madrid Open has been the fiďŹ…h Masters 1000 event of the year. Winners of last yearâ€™s tournament were Roger Federer and Serena Williams; in 2011 victory went to Novak Djokovic and Petra Kvitova, and in 2010 the event was won by Rafael Nadal and Aravane Rezai. Tickets on sale at www. madrid-open.com >WHEN: From
3 to 12 May.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's
one of the key tournaments on the ATP calendar.
UNE The focus is on PHotoEspaña In partnership with museums, art galleries and other cultural centres, this ambitious festival shows audiovisual work from all over the world, combining daring and quality in a heartfelt tribute to photography. You have two months to see it. >WHEN: 5
June to 28 July.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The
whole city is a showcase for the work of top photographers.
ULY The great Gay Pride march Every year the LGBT Pride festival draws hundreds of thousands of people to the city. A huge party at which everyone is welcome, it comes packed with opening speeches, live concerts and lots more. The most eagerly-awaited event is the Gay Pride parade, which runs along Calle Alcalá and Gran Vía (page 147). >WHEN: From
3 to 7 July.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The last two years
have been billed as the best gay event in the world.
UGUST Veranos de la Villa festival Over its 31 years of existence, the Veranos de la Villa festival has become an essential date on Madrid's cultural calendar during the hot summer months, with a series of openair evening performances bringing a welcome breath of fresh air. >WHEN: June-August. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: You'll get the chance to see star performers in unique settings.
EPTEMBER 'Deco' festival The Literary Quarter puts on its finery for a few days in September. Streets and shops dress up to celebrate DecorAcci贸n, an event focusing on art and decoration characterised by urban intervention. Shop windows move out onto the street and make their mark in a brilliant Antiques Market. >WHEN: September. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: You can find some really unusual decorative items.
CTOBER Architecture Week Guided tours of buildings, exhibitions and workshops are just a few of the activities on oﬀer during Architecture Week, when you can get a feel for Madrid's built heritage (page 51). Equally interesting are the talks and lectures taking place during the event, given by leading international architects. >WHEN: October. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's
a great chance to discover hidden gems.
ECEMBER It's Christmas time When December rolls around, Christmas traditions envelop the streets and many take on a modern look. Watch bright lights coming on at dusk, smell the aroma of roasted chestnuts waﬅing through the air and join the bustling shopping centres full of people on the lookout for the best giﬅs, as Madrid pulls out all the stops for the merriest time of the year (page 132).
OVEMBER Madrid gets jazz fever
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: Its
old spirit lives on.
Open your ears to all kinds of sounds, from bebop to Latin beats. The Madrid International Jazz Festival is a journey through music across the globe, from north to south, east to west, featuring live performances by big-name artists on the various stages spread over the whole city. >WHEN: November. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The
some great virtuosos.
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7 PLANS 24-37 ITINERARIES TO MATCH YOUR MOOD. FOR SUNNY OR GREY DAYS, WHETHER YOU WAKE UP CRAVING SOME CLEAN AIR, WITH AN URGE TO GO SHOPPING OR TO HAVE FUN WITH YOUR CHILDREN. HERE ARE SOME IDEAS TO SUIT EVERYONE’S TASTE.
30HB&?;0=B Plan your day to suit your mood
IF YOU WAKE UP TO BLUE SKIES ITâ€™S A KNOWN FACT THAT THE LIGHT IN MADRID IS SPECTACULAR. ADMIRE THE COLOURS OF EL RETIRO, DISCOVER THE PASEO DEL PRADO, TAKE A CULTUîƒš RAL STROLL THROUGH THE CITYâ€™S STREETS AND ENJOY A SPECTACULAR SUNSET.
01. Oxygen in El Retiro Wake up at your own pace î€ îƒžî„Š A day that begins under the trees in El Retiro can not end too badly. Roam around this enormous park at your leisure. If you enjoy walking, why not ramble along its paths? If you prefer running, jog along the track around the park. If skatingâ€™s your thing, the Paseo de Coches is the place for you. An hour in the park will provide you with enough oxygen and endorphins for the rest of the week.
02. A morning at the Reina SofĂa and the Prado Half morning visits î€Ľî€Ľ îƒžî„Š Both museums are open on Mondays. The pioneer was the Reina Sofia. Of course, you can visit Picassoâ€™s Guernica on permanent display here, but also check out its programme of temporary exhibitions. Find some time to spend in La Central, one of Madridâ€™s finest bookshops. Itâ€™s always a good idea to add a visit to the Prado to your Monday schedule, an ideal day for peacefully browsing through its vast exhibition rooms.
03. Curry or ginger? Multicultural ingredients . All this culture can make you hungry. You can satisfy it very close by in Lavapiés, where you will find some of Madrid’s best ethnic restaurants. Along Calle Ave María is a variety of Thai, Indian and Lebanese restaurants, all as aﬀordable as they are delicious.
04. Aﬅernoon in the Mapfre centre Visit, observe and tell everyone about it Take a stroll from Lavapiés to Recoletos. Walk along the Paseo del Prado to burn oﬀ your lunch until you reach your destination: the nineteenth century palace, home to the Mapfre Foundation. This intimate venue organises some extraordinary temporary exhibitions. Monday is the quietest day. If you happen to be visiting an exhibition at this time of the aﬅernoon, you are certainly doing something right.
05. An evening in Las Salesas A trendy sunset If your task of the day has been to become inspired by the city, it is now time to rest. The streets around the Salesas neighbourhood are a meeting place, as evening draws in, for designers, journalists and local residents. On practically every corner you will find a place to enjoy a cocktail, sip a wine from Madrid or nibble on a slice of Spanish omelette, which every bar claims to make better than anyone else.
730HB&?;0=B WALKING IN THE RAIN MADRID BOASTS MANY DAYS OF SUNLIGHT DURING THE YEAR, BUT IF YOU ARE CAUGHT OUT IN THE RAIN, THIS ISNâ€™T A PROBLEM SINCE THERE ARE A PLETHORA OF OPTIONS TO MAKE YOUR DAY JUST AS BRIGHT.
01. Buy yourself an umbrella And make it a stylish one î€Ľî€¤ îƒžî„Š Casa de Diego, in Puerta del Sol, has been selling the finest umbrellas since 1858, like the ones Mary Poppins used, in addition to shawls, fans and castanets.
02. Strolling along Preciados Free from the disturbance of traďŹƒc î€Ľî€Ľ.î€§î€¤ îƒžî„Š This is the most traditional shopping street in Madrid, pedestrianised for hassle-free window shopping, which is much appreciated, especially on rainy days. Seek refuge in any of the nearby department stores.
03. San Miguel market Gourmet tastings î€Ś î„?î„Š An open-plan covered market, and an emblem of culinary delights since its recent restoration. Here you will find oyster stalls, cheese counters and sweet sellers.
04. Fine Arts Circle Goldfish Bowl A city centre vantage point
. The storm is brewing. Watch the hustle and bustle of the Calle Alcalá, through the immense windows of the long-established coﬀee house at the Fine Arts Circle. The coming and going of vehicles and passers-by is a sight worth seeing. Take the opportunity to visit some of the interesting art and photographic exhibitions programmed throughout the year.
05. Drama and comedy Madrid takes the stage Classics and contemporary plays, laughter and tears, performance art and musicals, stand-up comics and international shows; all the great names in acting make an appearance on the stage of Madrid’s theatres. The bigger theatres usually have more seats available on week days; take the opportunity to book your seat and enjoy the show.
730HB&?;0=B TODAY YOU ARE FEELING GREEN FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF MADRID RIO YOU CAN VISIT UP TO SEVEN PARKS, EACH ONE OFFERING A WORLD TO DISCOîƒš VER, A FAMILY DAY OUT OR A GREAT CYCLING EXPERIENCE.
01. Neighbourhood spirit Arganzuela Park î€ îƒžî„Š Start the day in any of the cafĂŠs that flank the parkâ€™s entrance while contemplating the city as it awakes before your stroll or bicycle ride.
02. A 3D Universe Tierno GalvĂĄn Park î€Ľî€¤.î€§î€¤ îƒžî„Š If you continue along the leďŹ… bank of the Manzanares River you will see the Planetarium and the dome of the Imax, where spectacular 3D documentaries are shown in its morning sessions.
With a view
03. Picnic on the peak Linear Park of the Manzanares River î€Ľ î„?î„Š In addition to its fantastic cycle track, it oďŹ€ers splendid views over the city. We suggest you stop for a picnic under the shade of the Lady of the Manzanares by Manolo ValdĂŠs.
04. Ballcourts, climbing wall and skates Matadero Park To burn oﬀ your lunch, make your way to the Legazpi district, the perfect place for sports enthusiasts to practice any kind of activities, from cycling and skate boarding to rock climbing. Matadero (pg 48) is a mustvisit for art and culture lovers.
04 05 05
05. Visit the shrine Pradera de San Isidro . If you visit during the festival period (May) you can witness the most quintessential side of the city. If not, the shrine, a perennial icon of popular tradition, is an agreeable and peaceful place. One of its curiosities is that is oﬀers a Mozarabic mass on Sundays at midday and on Tuesdays at 5.30 pm.
For dining out
06. A memorable evening Casa de Campo Park . Not many people know this, but in Madrid’s immense country park there is also a Culinary Route, with top class restaurants to suit everyone’s pocket.
07. The origins of Madrid Atenas Park Just by Puente de Segovia, and at the foot of the Arabic wall, its famous outdoor café is a popular haunt in summer when the sun goes down. In winter, you could opt for one of the cafés or bars in the nearby Vistillas or on Cuesta de la Vega.
730HB&?;0=B INCORRIGIBLE URBANITES IN MADRID, IN ANY STREET IN THE CITY CENTRE YOU WILL FIND THE LATEST TRENDS, AND ON ANY NIGHT THERE ARE PLENTY OF PEOPLE AROUND TO GUARANTEE A GOOD TIME. A TIP: GO OUT ON THE TOWN ON THURSDAYS.
With a view
01.A breakfast for champions Plaza de la Independencia î€ îƒžî„Š A slice of toasted baguette with tomato and olive oil, accompanied by coďŹ€ee or tea will provide you with the energy you need for the day. Or, if you prefer, croissants and madeleines. You can breakfast outdoors, by the gates of the Retiro, while watching the world go by at the Puerta de AlcalĂĄ.
02. Find the latest styles On the hunt for up-to-theminute trends î€Ľî€¤.î€§î€¤ îƒžî„Š Before going out for the evening, make your way to the districts where fashion is always one step ahead. Men will love Conde Duque, the girls will fall for Salesas, and the fashionistas will be delighted by the streets around Triball.
03. Menu of the day Home-cooking î€Ś î„?î„Š Succulent food at an aďŹ€ordable fixed price. This is the best way to sample homecooked food in the eateries of the neighbourhoods of ChamberĂ, LavapiĂŠs and Chueca.
04. Centuries of history are watching over us Rediscover the Literary Quarter This district has been spectacularly revamped. Without losing sight of its 04 artisan and popular traditional ambience, it is now home to numerous home décor 05 and antiquarian establishments where 05 you might wish to treat yourself to some shopping. An ideal setting for an aﬅernoon stroll, with a break for a bite to eat in any of the district’s cafés.
05. Gallery openings The first in line Thursday is oﬅen the day for inaugurating new exhibitions. Take the opportunity to visit one of the city’s best art galleries. Check out the city’s events calendar at www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
06. The ‘aﬅerwork’ trend Shall we go for a drink? This is the starting point for sharing some light refreshments with friends aﬅer finishing work. A few beers to start oﬀ the evening, to wash down the tapas, continuing with a couple of glasses of wine and finishing oﬀ with a tantalizing cocktail.
730HB&?;0=B FOR INCURABLE HEDONISTS
IN THE MORNING, ART; BEFORE LUNCH, AN APPETIZER; AT MIDDAY, A FINE RESTAURANT; TO UNWIND, A SPA; IN THE EVENING, A SHOW AND A FEW DRINKS. WHAT MORE COULD YOU ASK FOR?
An art-filled morning
01. Every possible style Paseo del Prado
02. A high rise view Cibeles Palace
Mî„†î„ î„ îƒžî„– Having seen the treasures of the Art Walk inside the museums, now is the time to take a global view from outside. There is no better place for this than from the vantage point of the roof of the CentroCentro, from where you can admire spectacular panoramic views over Madrid.
Start the day with a coďŹ€ee on any of the outdoor cafĂŠs at the end of Calle Huertas. From here you are just a few short steps away from the best museums in Madrid. To the right is the CaixaForum with its vertical garden; a little further along is the Reina SofĂa museum. To the leďŹ… is the Thyssen museum. And just opposite, the Prado. All museums oďŹ€er guided visits and educational programmes for children.
At the table
03. Table service Salamanca district
. On the streets crisscrossing the Goya, Velázquez and Serrano districts, it is possible to eat at some of the best restaurants in Madrid. From the creations of prize-winning chefs boasting Michelin stars to the best seasonal cuisine.
04. Pamper yourself Wellbeing for your body To restore your energy before going out on the town, many of Madrid’s top hotels oﬀer spa and massage services. Alternatively, you could visit one of the many sports centres and gyms open to the public.
05. Curtains up Classics, comedy and musicals . All eyes all on the Madrid stage, which has become a great cultural attraction, with a varied programme featuring top international shows and famed actors.
06. The youngest itinerary From Chueca to Malasaña
Most of Madrid’s nightlife is concentrated in these two districts. In the first you can experience a laid-back LGTB ambience. Malasaña is just around the corner and has lost none of its appeal to the alternative crowd with a recent face-liﬅ and a great selection of nightclubs catering for every musical taste.
730HB&?;0=B NOT WITHOUT MY CHILDREN MADRID IS A CELEBRATION, WHETHER YOU ARE 5 YEARS OLD OR 50. USE THE KIDS AS AN EXCUSE TO RIDE ON ALL KINDS OF ATîƒš TRACTIONS OR TO ASK RONALDO FOR HIS AUTOGRAPH.
Greenery Boating and zoo
01. Morning leisure time Casa de Campo î€ îƒžî„Š Any excuse is a good excuse to visit the Casa de Campo: spend a morning wandering through the trees, test your fitness on the exercise apparatus, pedal along the cycling routes, row a boat on the lake or visit the animals at the zoo. Thematic fairs and sports competitions are frequently held here.
02. All aboard the Cable Car Paseo de Rosales 03
Mî„†î„ î„ îƒžî„– Take the opportunity to cross the Manzanares on board the hanging cabins which take you to the Parque del Oeste, another of Madridâ€™s vast green spaces, with bars and outdoor tables, a perfect place for a snack while you watch the children play.
03. Ă€ la carte or at the bar San Anton Market î€Ś î„?î„Š Now is the time to hop on the Metro to Chueca.This is the latest market to have opened and already it is a hit with the public with its varied food stalls, its contemporary design and fabulous atmosphere. Do not forget to visit the outdoor cafĂŠ on the roof.
04. An aﬅernoon with idols There’s something for everyone . Accompany the children on a visit to the Wax Museum in Colón and end the aﬅernoon with a walk up the Castellana (or take the bus if you prefer) to the Santiago Bernabeu stadium, football’s maximum exponent. If there isn’t a match on, you can always see the pitch from inside the stadium and the trophy room.
05. Open on bank holidays Madrid never closes Begin by updating your kit in the Real Madrid shop and then head oﬀ to the children’s clothes shops in the Salamanca district, also open on Sundays (as is the rest of the city centre). Madrid residents say this is the best day to go shopping. 04
Before going to bed
06. Hot chocolate with 'churros' Irresistible Aﬅer such a busy day you need to restore your energy. The San Ginés hot chocolate bar close to Sol is legendary, and not to be missed. In the aﬅernoon it has a family atmosphere while at night it is a required stop for nighthawks, as it is open until dawn.
730HB&?;0=B A PERFECT SUNDAY FOLLOW THE EXAMPLE SET BY MADRIDâ€™S INHABITANTS WHO TRADITIONALLY SPEND THEIR FREE DAYS WITH THEIR FRIENDS AND FAMILY. A RECENT DEVELOPMENT IS STORES IN CENTRAL DISTRICTS OPENING ON SUNDAYS. Shopping
01. SniďŹ€ out a bargain at the Rastro A thousand and one curiosities
02. A full brunch Everything you could wish for
î€ îƒžî„Š Plaza de Cascorro and Calle Ribera de Curtidores are covered with hundreds of stalls from this traditional flea market, where, if you search long enough, you can find practically anything. 01
î€Ľî€Ľ.î€§î€¤ îƒžî„Š What began as a habit introduced by international visitors only catered for by the top class hotels, has now spread throughout the whole city. CafĂŠ Oliver boast of being the first to serve brunch.
03. Meandering through the streets A medieval walk
As well as being an essential place for tapas, the maze of streets of La Latina is ideal for a leisurely walk to discover the medieval atmosphere of its hidden squares, such as Plaza de San Andrés, and its narrow streets such as Cava Baja.
04. A steaming cup of coﬀee Walls steeped in history . Around Calle Segovia you will come across old-time cafés that invite you to stop and chat with friends or cast a glance over the Sunday papers. Remember that many news kiosks open only on Sunday mornings.
05. Sunday shopping Open just for you . Around Plaza Mayor the streets are bustling with a festive and family atmosphere. But not only here. Shops and businesses in the centre of Madrid are allowed to open as they would any other day of the week.
06. Latest film releases In their original language In Madrid, subtitled films continue to thrive. Many of the OV cinemas are located around Plaza de los Cubos, close to Plaza de España. In the area there are a few excellent bars where you can enjoy some international tapas aﬅer the film.
2 +34 914 364 340
ART &CULTURE 40-61 4043 THE ART WALK 4447 HISTORIC NEIGHBOURHOODS 4849 GALLERY ROUTE 5057 NEW SPACES 5859 WHAT'S ON 6061 INTERVIEW Elena Ochoa
THE ART WALK
Almost 3 km of museums and exhibitions
ALTERNATIVE SPACES SUCH AS LA CASA ENCENDIDA, THE REINA SOFÍA AND CAIXAFORUM, CLASSICS INCLUDING THE PRADO AND THE THYSSEN, AND PRIVATE INSTITUTIONS LIKE THE MAPFRE FOUNDATION… WEAR COMFORTABLE SHOES!
THE ESSENTIAL ROUTE for art lovers If you haven't stood before Las Meninas, you haven't been to Madrid. This might sound a little over the top, but the Prado Museum and the room within which the public can contemplate this extraordinary painting represent one of the corners of Madrid that visitors can least aﬀord to miss out on. The
Prado embodies the spirit of Madrid: regal yet open, local yet universal, vast and yet built on a human scale, solid yet constantly moving. This museum forms part of the so-called Art Walk, a route covering almost three kilometres from the National Library in Plaza de Colón to La Casa Encendida in the Embajadores district.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM , , - , . FROM COLÓN TO EMBAJADORES The route encompasses a string of emblematic art institutions, including the ThyssenBornemisza Museum, CaixaForum and the Reina Sofía Museum. Each has its own personality: the Thyssen boasts an outstanding permanent collection of more than a thousand works dating from the 18th century to the end of the 20th; CaixaForum surprises visitors with its temporary exhibitions cover-
ing all artistic disciplines without exceptions and "El Reina", as the locals call it, has focused on purely avant-garde movements for the last twenty years. And there's more besides. Other must-visits include the Mapfre Foundation, the Casa de América and the new CentroCentro, located near Plaza de Cibeles.
, ' .
THE THREE BIG ONES: PRADO, THYSSEN & REINA SOFÍA Three museums, three diﬀerent personalities. The Prado, designed by Juan de Villanueva and extended by Rafael Moneo, is one of the world's most prestigious art galleries. Alongside Las Meninas by Velázquez and The Third of May 1808 by Goya, its rooms also house various masterpieces of the Spanish, Italian and Flemish schools. The Thyssen-Bornemisza brings together vast exhibitions and a powerful, unique painting collection. It displays some of the best works from the 18th to the 20th centuries, filling in the gaps not covered by its fellow galleries on the Art Walk such as Fauvism and German Expressionism. They really know how to organise blockbusters: this year it has a definite date with Pisarro. The Reina Sofía
embraces all minority movements. The reorganisation of the permanent collection and the museum's exhibition programme has a strong avant-garde message: Madrid's audiences have daring tastes. MORE THAN JUST EXHIBITIONS Something is always happening at these three museums. The Prado is an excellent place to have breakfast or buy a giﬅ. The Reina Sofía boasts one of the best bookshops in the city, La Central, and the Thyssen's patios and conference programme represent one of Madrid's luxuries.
OSCAR MARINĂ‰ Designer, illustrator, artist
A space you recommend. Matadero Madrid, for the diversity of its cultural activities. Your favourite museum. The Reina Sof!a, for the versatility of its rooms and magnificent library. Your thoughts on the Prado. Everyone can find inspiration in there. And the Thyssen. We are lucky to have it in Madrid. Madrid's best-kept secret. It's an open secret: the future Royal Collections Museum, designed by Tu"#n and Mansilla. Your latest discovery. The Tipos Infames bookshop (San Joaqu!n, 3).
THE THREE CORNERS. The Prado Museum (see previous page), the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (above) and the Reina SofĂa Museum make up the central triangle of art in Madrid.
GERARD MORTIER Artistic director at the Teatro Real
Where does your life in Madrid take place? Usually between the Teatro Real and my apartment. Where would you recommend for a quiet meal? The restaurants I like best are Goizeko (Comandante Zurita, 37), Kabuki (Avenida del Presidente Carmona, 2) and, when the weather's good, the gardens of the Hotel Ritz (Pza. de la Lealtad, 5). A walk that inspires you. I really enjoy a stroll in the Retiro Park and the grand boulevards of the city centre. A place to buy a gift. I don't overcomplicate things: I know that in El Corte Inglés I can find everything I need.
HAPSBURG Royal Madrid King Felipe II made Madrid the capital of Spain in the 16th century. Both he and his successors would be active residents of Madrid. A perfect example of this is Carlos III (18th century), a great town planner who deserved his nickname as the “Mayor King”. Thanks to him, the capital was transformed from a medieval town into a modern city. The nucleus of this regal Madrid is the Royal Palace, which boasts the most important royal armoury in Europe and is surrounded by the Teatro Real opera house and La Almudena Cathedral. A royal residence since 1764, it is impressive both for its imposing façade and lavish interior, with almost 3,000 rooms open to visitors. Nevertheless, the Spanish monarchs were of an austere nature, and nowhere is this better reflected than in the Hapsburg neighbourhood (Austrias).
PLAZA MAYOR ' : , . .
CENTURIES OF HISTORY. On the left-hand page, the Royal Palace presides over Plaza de Oriente. Here, the colonnades of Plaza Mayor never fail to amaze.
PAST AND PRESENT Today, Hapsburg Madrid is one of the most pleasant places to take a walk, and one of the best preserved areas of the city. Nestled in between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace, it is a labyrinth of narrow streets, stone buildings, convents and churches. Time has been kind to this sober architecture, even giving it a feeling of vitality. Much frequented by locals and visitors alike, it is also a fine example of how the past is still very present in Madrid without overwhelming the modern city.
Monarchs, the aristocracy and their homes are full of mysteries and legends: · It is said that the elegant halls of Linares Palace, which today house Casa de América, are haunted. Many visitors claim to have heard the ghost's voice. · Ataulfo is the name of the spirit that lives in the Reina Sof!a Museum. The legend dates back to the 18th century when the building was a hospital. · The Duchess of Osuna organised talks on spiritualism during the Enlightenment at El Capricho Park. Goya produced paintings for the small palace on the grounds, including Witches' Sabbath, now housed in the L$zaro Galdiano Foundation.
78BC>A82=48671>DA7>>3B LITERARY QUARTER Echoes of the Golden Age The neighbourhood owes its name to the fact that Góngora, Tirso de Molina, Calderón de la Barca and Lope de Vega lived here in the 17th century. To remind us of these illustrious residents, excerpts of their works have been engraved on pavements trodden by many passers-by every day. Its borders are marked by Plaza de Santa Ana, Plaza de las Cortes, Calle de Atocha and Paseo del Prado. Being close to the Prado has naturally led to the establishment of several art spaces in the area. In fact, it has always drawn in musicians, booksellers and antique dealers. In recent years a new generation of traders and artists has emerged, reviving the perennial spirit of the neighbourhood with a 21st-century twist. Everyone is aware that the Literary Quarter possesses a special cultural energy and they pull together to protect it. Today, following a pedestrianisation process that has breathed life into the area, the Literary Quarter takes great care over its ethics and aesthetics. This is a neighbourhood worthy of the great names who lived here a long time ago.
*BETWEEN PAGES* »CUESTA DE MOYANO The mecca for all book lovers. Here you can find traditional stalls where books are bought, sold and exchanged. The perfect plan for the weekend.
»ATENEO Open to members and researchers, it
boasts a vast collection of 19th century pamphlets, monographs and journals. Some interesting conferences also take place here.
»NATIONAL LIBRARY Everything published in Spain can be found here. It has just celebrated its 300th anniversary with more vitality than ever. »INSTITUTO CERVANTES LIBRARY
This space is targeted at a multicultural public interested in the Spanish language. It has a good video library and guarantees peace and quiet to work in.
NEIGHBOURHOOD LIFE. In and around Calle de las Huertas you can feel the inspiration of literature and the arts, and you will often stumble across street performances here.
MARTA ETURA Actress, winner of the Goya Award for
Your favourite spot. The roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circle. I love the view over the rooftops. Where might we be able to find you? In the Literary Quarter, browsing its interior design stores, galleries and antique shops. Your perfect time and place. Gran V!a. 5am. A terrace. My terrace, or that of the hotel ME (Pza. Santa Ana, 14). A place to eat with friends. Maxi (Cava Alta, 4): on Thursdays and Saturdays they do a delicious Madrid-style stew. A place to buy a gift. I usually head to the area of Calle de Piamonte.
MADRID'S LITERARY QUARTER 01. Pza. del %ngel 02. Teatro Espa"ol 03. Ateneo 04. Pza. de las Cortes 05. Thyssen Museum
06. Pza. de la Plater!a 07. Prado Museum 08. CaixaForum 09. Reina Sof!a Museum 10. Cine DorĂŠ
GALLERY ROUTE The most contemporary art Every year in February Madrid bustles with the arrival of ARCOMadrid, to the delight of all collectors. Free valuations will be oﬀered by the fair itself for the second year running for those who wish to start their own collection. Its influence as a prominent art market reaches across the whole city, all year round. Madrid's galleries are behind the indisputable masters of modern art in Spain, such as Tàpies, Barceló and Gris, as well as the innovative force represented by young avant-garde artists. There are a number of gallery routes across the city centre. You
might decide to visit the galleries of the Literary Quarter, small yet very up-to-date, or the long-standing ones in Chamberí. New spaces are springing up in the Salamanca district, already a pioneer back in the 1960s. Other good routes can be found near the Reina Sofía Museum, not to mention those scattered across the Salesas neighbourhood. Whatever the choice, each one oﬀers a stimulating dip into the art world.
ARCO IT'S A FIESTA , . , .
CREATIVE DYNAMISM. On this page: an exhibition room at La FĂĄbrica cultural centre, and the Instituto Cervantes. Previous page: Ivorypress gallery.
*SALESAS* Although there are galleries all over Madrid, the highest proportion is to be found in the Salesas neighbourhood. The area is home to contemporary classics such as the Juana de Aizpuru, Max Estrella, La Caja Negra, Moriarty, Elvira Gonz$lez and Rita Castellote galleries. A stroll down its wide streets confirms its status as Madrid's own Soho.
GERARDO MOSQUERA @GerardoMosquer1 Curator for PHotoEspaĂąa
A walk that inspires you. From Puerta del Sol to Hapsburg Madrid. To get away from it all. The Royal Botanical Gardens. The best views. From the roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circle. The most special light. The sunset from the terrace at La Almudena Cathedral. Your latest discovery. RMS El Espacio (www.rms.com.es). Classicism versus avant-garde. The Prado Museum and Matadero Madrid. A local tip. The San Miguel and San Ant#n markets. Something that always surprises you about Madrid. The intensity of its nightlife.
MADRID AT YOUR FEET ' , , , .
CENTROCENTRO. The renovated interior of Cibeles Palace is open to residents and visitors alike - a unique, multipurpose space with viewpoint, auditorium and restaurant/café.
CIBELES PALACE A true icon of Madrid A popular spot for snapshots in Madrid is undoubtedly Cibeles Palace. In fact, the whole square invites a constant stream of amateur photographers capturing their memories of Madrid in the form of a photo. Now, Plaza de Cibeles, as open and vibrant as the city itself, has taken on new life. It has gone from being a mere piece of scenery to a place that attracts visitors in its own right. The recent renovation of Cibeles Palace has led to the creation of a new cultural and social space. The original building, built by Palacios and Otamendi in 1904, currently houses the City Council in part of its rooms. STARTING POINT The same building is also home to CentroCentro, 30,000 square metres of exhibition space and platforms for debate, an auditorium for chamber music events, and its Patio de Operaciones, a place to socialise, take a seat, relax and contemplate your next visit, or read some more about Madrid. It also boasts an impressive Glass Gallery: some of the city's best celebrations are held here. But the jewel in the palace's crown is the viewpoint. It stands 70 metres from the ground, oďŹ€ering 360 degree views over the heart of Madrid. The restaurant which opened in 2012 is on the top floor of the building.
THE LANDMARKS OF CALLE ALCAL" AND GRAN V#A 01. Fine Arts Circle
Alcal$, 42. (1919-1926)
02. Metr#polis Building Alcal$, 39. (1907-1910)
03. Madrid-Par!s Building Gran V!a, 32. (1920-1924)
04. Palacio de la Prensa Pza. del Callao, 4. (1925-1929)
05. Cines Callao
Pza. del Callao, 3. (1926-1927)
06. Torre de Madrid
Pza. de Espa"a, 18. (1954-1960)
07. Casino de Madrid Alcal$, 15. (1903)
08. Banco Bilbao Building Alcal$, 16. (1919-1923)
09. Carri#n Building Gran V!a, 41. (1931-1933)
10. Telef#nica Building
Gran V!a, 28. (1926-1930)
MATADERO MADRID Spaces in constant evolution When you come to Madrid you'll see that in recent years the capital has experienced a similar process to that of other European cities. A process somewhere between poetry and sustainability. The city has revived some ailing spaces, breathing new cultural life into them. The standard-bearer of this trend is Matadero Madrid, a huge complex (and former slaughterhouse) located on the edge of the Madrid Río project that has placed the Arganzuela district in the avant-garde spotlight of the city. Today it houses exhibition halls such as Nave 16 (the largest in the city), the innovative Central de Diseño, the creative centre Abierto X Obras and the cinema Cineteca. This is also the location of Inter-
mediae, a venue for generating new projects, and Naves del Español, one of Madrid's most stimulating theatres. Its brand new landmark space, La Casa del Lector, was successfully opened in 2012. BREAKING THE MOULD Matadero continues the groundbreaking trend started by La Casa Encendida, well known for its cultural activities, courses and workshops. Another option is the El Águila complex, a former beer factory that now hosts visual art exhibitions.
MATADERO ALSO AT NIGHT , . , ' .
CÉSAR ANTONIO MOLINA Director of Casa del Lector
A recommendation that never disappoints. The Matadero Madrid cultural complex. What is it about Madrid that makes it special and different? The sky and the constant light. The most amazing thing about Casa del Lector. It’s a place that teaches how to live and love culture. A great bookstore in the capital. “Antonio Machado” in C!rculo de Bellas Artes. A book about Madrid or set in Madrid. Valle-Incl$n’s novel, Bohemian Lights.
* NEWCOMERS * BREAKING THE MOULD. Matadero Madrid (on the left) joins the list of innovative spaces along with (on this page) La Casa Encendida and Hub Madrid.
»MEDIALAB PRADO A
research laboratory and centre for collaborative work which aims to disseminate digital culture and bring together society, art, science and technology. Alameda, 15.
»HUB MADRID A space for co-working and an ideas centre. It marks a before and after in our understanding of the way we work. Gobernador, 26. »UTOPIC_US A multipurpose and avant-garde art gallery, workspace and, even, school. Concepci#n Jer#nima, 22.
»ESPACIO FUNDACIÓN TELEFÓNICA A leading expo-
nent of 21st century culture: creativity, innovation and technology for social development. Fuencarral, 3.
RENEWAL. On this page: the Conde Duque barracks opens its doors once more. On the next page: the light and airy ABC museum (above) contrasts with the museums of History and Romanticism.
CONDE DUQUE Martial renewal This self-suﬃcient, well-preserved military neighbourhood is like a Russian doll: the streets lead to plazas, which lead to tucked-away spots, which lead to sculptures... Now it has added two large cultural spaces to its physiognomy and soul. However, they are not entirely new: Conde Duque already existed as an exhibition centre and concert hall, but it has just undergone a fabulous refurbishment. In times gone by this was the largest building in Madrid. Even today it has imposing dimensions, with a surface area of 5,000m2 and 228 metres of façade. It also boasts an impressive theatre, exhibition and musical programme of events. A NEW NEIGHBOUR Very close to Conde Duque and complementing it is the ABC Museum. It is an unassuming building whose glass façade contrasts with its surroundings. An initiative of the newspaper ABC and supported by its substantial archives, it is focused on illustration and graphic design. Open since 2010, it already forms part of the city's cultural routes. It's the new kid on the block that can be found in all traditional neighbourhoods.
JUAN GATTI Graphic designer and visual artist
A museum or gallery. I love the Decorative Arts and Sorolla museums. Madrid's best-kept secret. I want it to stay that way: the Botanical Gardens. They are not at all well-known, and they're divine. The thing you can only find in Madrid. The party spirit. Your latest discovery. The vintage furniture shop Morat!n 20. A unique photo. In one of the Matadero buildings that haven't been restored, and I love the light in the train stations.
* 5 MUSEUMS * »ROMANTICISM Decorated in the style of a 19th century bourgeois palace. A delight. In Chueca. »SOROLLA The Valencian
artist painted here for many years. The museum offers the best of his works and the chance to learn about his daily life. In Chamber!.
»CERRALBO Works by El Greco and Zurbar$n are interspersed with this family's collection from the 19th century. In Princesa.
A journey through the history of Spanish art: pieces by Goya, Vel$zquez and El Greco. In Salamanca.
housing one of the best displays of Madrid baroque. Recently reopened. In Chueca.
NEW ARCHITECTURE From Castellana to the outskirts During these first years of the 21st century, Madrid has witnessed two architectural currents. It is impossible to ignore the first, a clearly avant-garde style. The four skyscrapers at the northern end of Castellana remind us of this fact. They are: Torre de Cristal, Torre PwC (which houses the five-star Eurostars Tower on its first 34 floors), Torre Espacio and Torre Repsol, the last of these designed by Sir Norman Foster. Other turn-of-the-century examples include T4 (Richard Rogers-Estudio Lamela), prodigious work of engineering and light; the CaixaForum building (Herzog&de Meuron), which still amazes with its illusion of lightness; Caja Mágica by Dominique Perrault; Jean Nouvel's work on the Reina Sofía; and Moneo's on the Prado.
The other trend present here has a more discreet profile and sustainable angle. Madrid has taken on projects in which architecture and town planning go hand in hand; above all, the city keeps close to the residents and their needs. In some of Madrid's neighbourhoods you can find works that incorporate green technology and a sense of coexistence, as in the case of the Eco-Boulevard in Vallecas and the Carabanchel urban expansion, which contains buildings such as the Manzana Perforada by ACM Arquitectos and Casa de Bambú by Alejandro Zaera. Times change, people change and cities change.
21ST-CENTURY FORMS. On the previous page: the four towers erected at the end of Paseo de la Castellana. On this page: the bridge designed by Perrault as part of the Madrid Río project.
THE BRIDGES OF MADRID RÍO Have you crossed your favourite yet? Madrid Río has 32 bridges and walkways linking the two banks of the Manzanares River. If you weren't aware of its recent past, you'd never guess that beneath them lies an underground motorway. This wide-ranging project directed by Ginés Garrido has maintained and restored some classic bridges such as those of Toledo, Segovia, Del Rey and Reina Victoria. Nine new bridges have also been added. The most frequently photographed is the Puente Monumental de la Arganzuela by Dominique Perrault, an icon of the new Madrid. The most unusual bridge is Puente de Andorra, or the y-shaped walkway, while the warmest designs are those of the twin Invernadero and Matadero bridges, decorated by Daniel Canogar.
INVERNADERO , - .
ART & CULTURE >>>>>>
KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO COVER ALL THE CULTURAL EVENTS ON OFFER IN MADRID BUT DON'T DESPAIR: WE CAN SUM UP THE HIGHLIGHTS OF 2013 FOR YOU.
THREE TIPS SOROLLA
Following exhibitions in Italy and Granada, the Sorolla Museum is now hosting this show paying tribute to the painter’s best-loved landscapes. From 30 October 2012 to 5 May 2013. VAN DYCK
Casa de Alba its artistic legacy Paintings by Goya, Titan and Rubens are just a few of the treasures from the Casa de Alba private collection, now on show in the Centro Centro at Palacio de Cibeles. More than 150 artworks from the legacy of Spain’s most influential aristocratic family. >WHEN: From
30 November 2012 to 31 March
2013. >DID YOU KNOW?: The masterpiece 'The Virgin of the Pomegranate' is being exhibited for the very first time.
The Prado Museum is showing the precocious painter’s early creative work. From 20 November 2012 to 3 March 2013. CRISTINA IGLESIAS
The Reina Sof!a is hosting the biggest retrospective exhibition ever held on this Spanish artist. From 5 February to 13 May 2013.
Book Fair A large-scale event at El Retiro Park
Beyond ARCOMadrid A window onto the avant-garde
Every spring Madrid hosts this major event on the literary calendar, where leading authors and publishers come together to present their latest releases and interact with their readers. >WHEN: May-June. Paseo de Coches in El Retiro Park. >A UNIQUE EVENT: With more than 300 stalls, this is the biggest bookshop you'll find in Spain.
Three other excellent fairs will be held in parallel: Art Madrid, Madrid Dearte and JustMad. All complement a programme that oﬀers curated activities providing a space for emerging galleries and markets. >WHEN: From 13 to 17 February 2013 Feria de Madrid. >KEEP IN MIND: Transport between fairs is generally well organised. Make sure you check out the options and timetables.
Architecture Week A parade of giants The experts reveal the secrets of Madrid's most emblematic buildings. Get all the details by visiting www.esmadrid.com/semanaarquitectura. >WHEN: October. Various locations. >WHAT TO EXPECT: It's a great chance to discover hidden gems.
Dalí The Surrealist genius The Reina Sofía National Museum is hosting a major exhibition together with the Pompidou Centre in Paris, in collaboration with the Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation in Figueres and the Salvador Dalí Museum in St. Petersburg (Florida). The show focuses on the Surrealist period of this creative genius, with particular emphasis on the paranoiac-critical method he developed as a mechanism for transforming and subverting reality. >WHEN: From
24 April to 2 September 2013. More Dalí to come at the end of the year: he also features in the Surrealism and Dream exhibition at the Thyssen Museum.
>TO BEAR IN MIND:
AND MUCH MORE MADRIDFOTO
The outlook is good for the fifth year of this event dedicated to collecting contemporary images. From 23 to 26 May 2013. Feria de Madrid.
LA CIUDAD EN VI³ETAS
CentroCentro is the place to catch a cycle of exhibitions on unpublished comic strips on Madrid. From 27 September 2012 to 31 July 2013.
Pisarro A unique Impressionist A pivotal figure who laid the foundations for the Impressionist movement, but who was eclipsed by his peers. The Thyssen Museum is holding the first monographic exhibition of his work in Spain. >WHEN: From 4 June to 15 September 2013. >WHY YOU SHOULD SEE IT: Because you will really appreciate his mastery of landscape in these 70 works of art.
The Prado Museum presents work by this pioneering artist in the introduction of realist landscape painting in Spain. From 30 October 2012 to 10 February 2013.
CHANGING OF THE GUARD
Enjoy one of the most emblematic sights by visiting the Royal Palace for the Solemn Changing of the Guard. The first Wednesday of every month at 12 noon, except in summer.
Madrid's taxi drivers are the most intelligent sociologists ELENA OCHOA FOSTER EDITOR AND GALLERY OWNER
The wife of architect Norman Foster is the founder of the Ivorypress art publishers and exhibition space, a meeting point for the newest vanguard movements. @IvoryPress
Define Madrid in just one image. The Gran Vía leading down towards Plaza de Cibeles. Where in Madrid could you spend hours reading? At home. And if my house is full of kids playing in the hallways, then Plaza de Santa Bárbara nearby. Where do you like to hang out? At the bar Cock (Reina, 16) with my close friends, until as late as possible. What's the greatest luxury you allow yourself in Madrid? And the best value treat? Wandering around Hapsburg Madrid. And the best value treat: going to the cinema with my children, enjoying a packet of pipas and a large popcorn. What hotel do you usually recommend? The Santo Mauro (Zurbano, 36).
And what about restaurants? For pizza, Bar Tomate (Fernando El Santo, 26); if you fancy hake, then Goizeko Kabi (Comandante Zorita, 37); for game, Horcher (Alfonso XII, 6); for a good potato tortilla, La Ancha (Príncipe de Vergara, 204); and for eating and chatting with friends, La Tasquita de Enfrente (Ballesta, 6). With my kids I prefer to go to Pan de Lujo (Jorge Juan, 20). And I'm leaving a lot of places out. What is the thing you miss most about Madrid when you're abroad? The smell, the light, the blue sky, and the taxi drivers: they're the most intelligent sociologists, a barometer of Spain. Their irony is witty, authentic and inimitable. What can a visitor to Ivorypress expect to find? A diﬀerent way of understanding books and contemporary art. That's how we've been described by the Financial Times and the Daily Telegraph,
as well as by magazines like Monocle and Corriere del Arte. My team and I have managed to position Ivorypress and Madrid as a steady, indisputable landmark in contemporary art and publishing. It's a fact and a reality. But there’s still a long way to go. Who is the artist from Madrid that you would most like to publish a book with? The artist I admire most is from Madrid: Isidoro Valcárcel Medina. He is the future. We have developed a meticulous artist's book with him which we will launch at this year's edition of Arco. The best book written about Madrid is... The one I'm writing, which I might not ever publish. I’m writing about public and private Madrid, the Madrid I love and the one I hate, the one that I feel when I live there for periods of time, and the timeless, ephemeral Madrid; its people, whom I love, and its skies and corners.
FOOD&DRINK 64-78 6465 TAPAS 6667 MADRID THE ESSENCE 6869 COSMOPOLITAN FLAVOURS 7071 HEALTHY AND GOURMET 7273 DISTRICT BY DISTRICT 7475 SWEETS AND DESSERTS 76 DRINKING IN STYLE 77 WHAT'S ON 78 INTERVIEW Ramón Freixa
The pleasure will be all yours
TASTY BITES. A selection of tapas lined up on a bar in San Miguel market. On the right, eating raciones in La Latina district.
MADRID IS ONE OF THE WORLD'S FOOD CAPITALS. HERE YOU CAN ENJOY DISHES FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE AS WELL AS TRADITIONAL AND CONTEMPORARY SPANISH CUI SINE AT ANY TIME OF DAY. TA PAS, THOUGH, ARE A MUST.
LET YOURSELF GO : , , .
BEER AND WINE A traditional ceremony A good tapa needs to be washed down with a good drink, which is why the beer pump is the heart of any bar. Traditional taverns always echo to the sound of glasses of beer being filled and passed over the counter. In Madrid pale beer is the favourite choice, served in a small glass and very cold, especially in summer. Some people prefer a clara, beer mixed with soda water or lemonade. Vermouth, also available on tap, is still a favourite aperitif.
READY FOR A BITE? Doing the rounds in La Latina Eating raciones (portions) is an old Spanish tradition that has become popular in many countries, and there’s nowhere quite like Madrid for enjoying tapas. They have become part of our social and cultural life, with cheese, cold meats, rice and stews in individual portions making up the perfect informal way of eating your fill. This art is at its finest in the Literary and Hapsburg quarters and, above all, in La Latina, where you can go from bar to bar, eating a little of everything you fancy. Products with designation of origin and other delicacies are now being given the creative cuisine treatment. Leading chefs have turned their attention to tapas, reinventing them with creative designs, attractive textures and a mix of delicious international flavours. However, However, the tortilla, or potato omelette, is still the best known tapa of all. In portions, as canapés or cut into cubes, it is the quintessential Madrid tapa.
* TOP TAPAS * »CROQUETTES Ham, chicken, cod WINE BY THE GLASS Depending on the bar and the time of day, wine has become a popular alternative to beer. The traditional flat-bottomed chatos are now being replaced by stemmed wine glasses. You can order wine by the glass so there’s no need to sit down at a dinner table and order a whole bottle. Fine wines from Spain and the rest of the world can be enjoyed in many classic
wine bars and modern gastro-bars, where you can devise your own à la carte tasting menu of small dishes. Old favourites like olives, white anchovies in vinegar and Iberian ham are to be found alongside new versions of traditional recipes featuring ingredients from other cultures. Travel through food!
and many others. With their varied fillings, croquettes are ideal for a tasty snack.
»'BOCADILLOS' Baguettes filled with old favourites are still very popular: fried squid, ham and tomato, pork tenderloin with cheese, peppers, etc. »'TORTILLAS' The potato omelette reigns supreme but there are many alternatives. In Spain they are eaten at any time of day. »PATATAS BRAVAS Potatoes cut into chunks, fried and served with a spicy tomato sauce.
<03A83C744BB4=24 OMAR ALLIBHOY @tapasrevolution Owner of hugely succcessful Tapas Revolution in London
Where do they serve your favourite cocido? In Taberna la Daniela. Any favourite tapa? The tortilla pinchos at Juana la Loca (Pza. Puerta de Moros, 4) and croquettes from the stall in San Miguel market. A relaxed meal. Roast lamb at La Tahona (Esp!ritu Santo, 12). A drink to round the evening off? The rooftop terrace at Hotel Urban (Carrera de San Jer#nimo, 34).
THE HOME OF 'COCIDO'. From left to right, three restaurants you'll want to go back to: La Bola, Cruz Blanca beer bar in Vallecas (winner of the award for the best cocido in Madrid) and MalacatĂn.
A COMPLETE 'COCIDO' The capital's staple dishes Cocido is a meal in itself. The first course consists of soup, and is followed by a stew made with cabbage, carrots and potatoes, chorizo, bacon, chicken and pork, plus chickpeas, a crucial ingredient. There are many variations but the original, authentic version is from Madrid. The dish epitomises the city's open character. This generous stew, which admits all sorts of ingredients, should be prepared in a pot and served in an earthenware dish. It dates back to the sixteenth century, when it was eaten by nobility and servants
alike. La Bola, La Daniela and Los Galayos are among the best known restaurants serving this traditional dish. To work up an appetite or help you to digest your meal, go for a long walk through the city centre.
LA LATINA La Latina district is the focal point for tourists and locals in search of good traditional cooking.
MOUTHWATERING FOOD There are many other traditional dishes that are firmly rooted in Madrileños’ normal diets. They can also be found in restaurants across the city, with such gastronomic delights as roast lamb at Casa Botín, tripe at the Malacatín, fried eggs at Casa Lucio and calamari sandwich at El Brillante all forming part of the local culinary heritage. In Madrid you can also find fine food from the rest of Spain in the city's many excellent regional restaurants: salmorejo from Andalusia, pisto from La Mancha, fish and shellfish from the north of Spain and rice dishes from the Mediterranean.
TREAT YOURSELF. It doesn't matter if you choose the elegance of Terraza del Casino, Chinese food at Tsé Yang or an Indian meal at Mumbai. Madrid will not disappoint you.
SETTING THE SCENE , ' , .
In different parts of the city. Food is an art, combining leisure, culture and business.
Casa Bot!n, near Plaza Mayor, is the oldest restaurant in the world.
You'll find them on Paseo de la Gastronom!a in Casa de Campo.
MICHELIN STARS Exquisite taste Michelin, the restaurant guide par excellence, has never been particularly generous as far as Spain's or Madrid's gastronomy is concerned. But the stars it has awarded are certainly well deserved. Madrid has six restaurants holding two Michelin stars: La Terraza del Casino, home of Paco Roncero's imaginative cuisine; Santceloni, where Óscar Velasco follows in the footsteps of Santi Santamaría; Ramón Freixa Madrid and Sergi Arola Gastro, named aﬅer their famous chefs, both of whom trained in Catalonia; plus DiverXo and Club Allard. Their young yet mature chefs are David Muñoz and Diego Guerrero
respectively, who skilfully combine widely varying culinary trends. The restaurants with one Michelin star are the elegant Zalacaín, where some of the country's most important business deals have been struck, and Kabuki and Kabuki Wellington, a balanced fusion of Japanese and Spanish cooking made possible by Ricardo Sanz's technical precision. There are sure to be many more in the future, as Madrid's cuisine is definitely going from strength to strength.
DAVID MUÑOZ @DiverXO Chef at DiverXo restaurant
A favourite spot. Bravo Murillo, cultural fusion in a street with a fine old tradition. A secret treat. The Hammam Al Andalus Madrid baths (Atocha, 14). Your favourite Madrid dish? Cocido; the best is the one you can order from Antojo (Ferraz, 36). An area for tapas. Huertas. Your favourite place to eat or drink? Arz$bal (Doctor Castelo, 2). Places you would recommend. Sudestada (Modesto Lafuente, 64) and O’Pazo (Reina Mercedes, 20). Your latest discovery. La Gastrocroqueter!a (Segovia, 17).
PHOTOS PENDING OK os alr Ugiam, commy nim dui te conulput nibh ex er se feugiat. Ut autatis molortinim veliquat dolore conulla aut exeraesse euisi.
TRY THIS A trip round the world in Lavapiés In recent years a fine selection of dishes from all over the globe have started cropping up on Madrid menus. This culinary journey round the world becomes a never-ending experience because of the enormous range of attractive and delicious food on oﬀer. Spicy dishes from Mexico, grilled meat from Argentina, ceviche from Peru, plus arepas from Venezuela and Colombia are now part of everyday life in the city. The same applies to Japanese, Chinese, Thai and Indonesian food, which is increasingly available in all parts of the city. You can enjoy an authentic Indian tandoori in Lavapiés and choose the most exquisite sushi in Paseo de la Castellana, whether you're looking for an everyday meal or a special treat. Pasta prepared in genuine Neapolitan ovens, Scandinavian smoked fish, or hearty dishes from Russia - take your pick!
EATING IN THE MARKET San Miguel and San Antón Madrid has taken snacks back to their roots, to the markets selling the top quality products used to make them, and pushed informal tapas to new heights. First in San Miguel market, next to Plaza Mayor, and now in San Antón, in Chueca, open multi-purpose spaces have been set up where you can do the week's shopping or join your friends for a bite to eat and a beer or a glass of wine. The unique buildings have been painstakingly refurbished, making them new city landmarks appreciated by residents and visitors alike. In both markets you can enjoy oysters in cava or grilled foie gras. Bite-sized portions of croquettes, mushrooms, Iberian cold meats
ALEJANDRA ANSÓN @elite_gourmet Director of Elite Gourmet
For a relaxed meal. La Tasquita de Enfrente (Ballesta, 6) or Ram#n Freixa (Claudio Coello, 67), depending on the day. A secret treat. White truffle at Don Giovanni (Reina Cristina, 23). A traditional dish. Tortilla at T$mara (Av. América, 33). Any favourite tapa? Nino's little dishes at La Gabinoteca (Fern$ndez de la Hoz, 53). The best view. From the La Terraza del Casino restaurant (Alcal$, 15). A hotel where you have a meal too? The Hotel Urban, thanks to Joaqu!n Felipe (Carrera de San Jer#nimo, 34).
DELICIOUS MARKETS. On this page the counter at one of the bars in San Miguel market. On the next page, two places to eat in San Antón market.
and cheese are available until the small hours, as are home-made ice cream, fresh fruit juice and designer cakes. QUICK SERVICE WITH NO SET TIMES When you visit Madrid you'll find you can eat very well without breaking the bank. Everyone is familiar with fast food but now many leading chefs are contributing ingenious ideas for a more balanced version. There is a demand for carefully prepared, healthy food using quality ingredients. There has been a city-wide boom in gourmet hamburgers, and the trend also applies to tacos, pizzas, hot dogs, filled baguettes and sandwiches. Fast food has been reinvented to satisfy the most demanding diner.
JOSÉ CARLOS CAPEL @madridfusion Director of Madrid Fusión and food critic
What does Madrid Fusi%n mean for the city? It has raised its profile around the world. What do they do best in Madrid? Pommes soufflés. The best cocido? Go to Charolés, in El Escorial (Floridablanca, 24). A place you'd recommend to friends visiting Madrid. The stage area in Teatriz restaurant (Hermosilla, 15). Your favourite tapa? The ham croquettes at El Quinto Vino (Hernani, 48). The most tempting food in Madrid. Fusion cuisine. Madrid and London are European pioneers in this field.
DISTRICTS IN MADRID TO WHET YOUR APPETITE This is the start of your culinary journey through the main areas in the city centre, a route full of interesting flavours.
THE LITERARY QUARTER The area round Plaza de Santa Ana and Calle de Huertas combines convenience and a Bohemian atmosphere. Its traditional taverns and modern gastrobars are ideal for a snack when shopping or visiting museums and theatres.
LA LATINA A walk round the district is compulsory on Sundays but its bars are well worth visiting during the week, when they are less crowded. Enjoy regional dishes and generous snacks as you explore Calle Cava Baja. The district's little squares, with their lively open-air bars, are hard to resist on summer evenings.
LAVAPIÉS The area's traditional past blends with its new international character. Aromas from all parts of the world waﬅ through its streets, bringing Oriental, Indian and North African cuisine to Madrid. Calle del Ave María is a good example, while the terraces in Argumosa are known as the district's "sea-front".
SALAMANCA The district oﬀers gourmet shops, tasting menus and outstanding wine bars. The area round Calle Serrano is home to vari-
ous award-winning restaurants oﬀering food to satisfy the most discerning palate. And there is no shortage of elegant bars where you can eat tapas or have tea while you take a breather from shopping.
SALESAS The bars serving beer in Plaza de Santa Bárbara are the epicentre of a district featuring many aﬅer work bars and delicatessens. Old and well-established cafés such as El Espejo and Gijón, in Paseo de Recoletos, give the area a particularly distinguished air.
MALASAÑA This lively young district has also kept up with the fascinating change in people's eating habits. With a wide range of takeaway food, retro-style cafés, vegetarian restaurants and cosy tea-rooms, it is also home to legendary tapas bars and restaurants serving international cuisine.
CHUECA The San Antón market, with its splendid flat roof, has extended the impressive range of options available. Old established restaurants rub shoulders with brand new businesses run by young chefs. In the Vázquez de Mella area you'll find classic cocktails and exotic menus.
INTERNATIONAL. Above, from left to right, two Italian restaurants: La Mucca and La Tavernetta. Below, Happy Day bakery.
* SET MENUS * Good, tasty and cheap. In Madrid you can eat very well on a tight budget. Most restaurants offer a set lunch, a filling meal consisting of two main courses, a dessert, bread and a drink at prices ranging from â‚Ź10 to â‚Ź20. The casas de comida are a particularly good option, serving both traditional and more modern fare, prepared with fresh market produce and served in a friendly, informal atmosphere that's popular with students, workers and travellers. When you come to Madrid, try to visit different districts so you can see for yourself how the huge variety of food on offer reflects their own, very individual characters.
FOR THOSE WITH A SWEET TOOTH... Breakfast and tea As you walk round Madrid you'll be bombarded by many tempting aromas. The city has a strong tradition of baking that dates back for centuries. Traditional pastry specialities include pestiños, buñuelos de viento, huesos del Santo, rosquillas de San Isidro, torrijas (eaten at Easter), the roscón de Reyes (a ring-shaped cake eaten at Christmas), while recent additions include la corona de la Almudena, eaten during the festivities to honour the city's patron saint. Churros with hot chocolate are a very wellestablished old favourite, eaten mid-aﬅernoon to ward oﬀ the cold weather or early in the morning aﬅer a night on the town. They are also an integral part of many popular festivities. The thick drinking chocolate is much loved by children and adults alike, who delight in dunking their fried batter porras and lazos.
SWEETLY SIDE BY SIDE. Madrid is home to traditional bakeries such as La Santiaguesa and new ventures like Buenas y Dulces, selling doughnuts and tea biscuits.
* DESSERTS * »COFFEE The smell of coffee fills bars and cafés from early morning until mid-afternoon. White at breakfast time and with just a drop of milk after lunch. »CUPCAKES Traditional fairy cakes are now decorated with ontrend fancy ingredients, like they do in English-speaking countries. »ICE CREAM Home-made,
creamy and nutritious, this old favourite now features unusual new varieties. Though mostly eaten in summer, it's also popular in winter.
»'ROSCÓN' Originally meant
to be eaten at Epiphany, there are bakeries where this cake has been transformed into a work of art.
CHOCOLATES AND SWEETS .
NEW TRENDS Madrid has a number of organic bakeries selling freshly-made croissants, which have made a big change to the early morning coﬀee ritual. The growing popularity of brunch in hotels and designer bars has made it a regular habit for many people at weekends. An increasing number of the city's residents are adopting the custom of having a British-style high tea in the aﬅernoon, eating cupcakes with multi-coloured toppings and pancakes with syrup and cream.
LOVINGLY MIXED DRINKS. Barman Carlos Moreno, from Charly's Bar.
THE AFTER WORK BOOM Cocktails in the centre In Madrid there's no need to wait for the weekend to enjoy the city's night life. It's become increasingly common for the Friday or Saturday night dinner plus drink routine to happen any evening from Monday to Thursday. There has been a remarkable increase in the number of establishments of all kinds catering for the aﬅer-work market. Customers can take advantage of attractive special deals on drinks and snacks to unwind aﬅer the day's work and chat to friends. Do you prefer a quiet cocktail bar or somewhere livelier? Does it depend on the day you've had? If you like cocktails, Gran Vía (the legendary Museo Chicote, for example) and the area behind it (Calle de la Reina) are a must. Fancy a gin & tonic? They serve fantastic mixed drinks in the Triball area. The list is never-ending and you'll be spoilt for choice all the way from Calle Almirante to Calle de Juan Bravo.
MIKEL ITURRIAGA @mikeliturriaga Author of the blog El Comidista
A relaxed meal. At L'a (Zurbano, 85), haute cuisine with no fuss. A restaurant to impress someone. Nikkei 225: high class Japanese-Peruvian fusion (Castellana, 15). Favourite tapas? Rabas and salmorejo at El Pez Gordo (Pez, 6). A place to go to with friends. Home Burger (Esp!ritu Santo, 12). A drink to round the evening off? In Toni 2 (Almirante, 9). It's a parallel world.
FOOD & DRINK
>>>>>> FOR FULL DETAILS GO TO www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
THE CALENDAR IS BRIMMING WITH DELICIOUS GASTRO NOMIC EVENTS HIGHLIGHTING THE FINEST FOOD FROM MADRID AND FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE.
AND... MADRID FUSI&N
This is the eleventh anniversary of the international event that turns Madrid into the gastronomy capital of the world, with the presence of internationally acclaimed chefs. In Pavilion 14.1 at IFEMA. From 21 to 23 January. SAL&N GOURMET
A meeting point for manufacturers and consumers of highend food products. A showcase event for top quality food and drink, attracting buyers from all over the world. Feria de Madrid. From 8 to 11 April. SOCIAL MENU
Gastrofestival A festival of the senses Coinciding with Madrid Fusión, the city also hosts Gastrofestival, a culinary and cultural event with a packed programme of activities inviting everyone to enjoy Madrid's many flavours. Leading chefs prepare special menus at attractive prices for the popular Dinners with the Stars and fashion designers present their own special creations in Gastrofashion. The event, now
in its third year, also includes tastings and courses, and is enthusiastically supported by restaurants, museums, art galleries, markets and delicatessens. >WHEN: From
19 January to 3 February 2013. is a unique opportunity to enjoy fine food at exceptionally low prices.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: This
Restaurants supporting Restaurant Week, an initiative that first started in New York in 1992, will be serving menus at especially attractive prices. Not only are they making restaurants more accessible, they are also supporting charitable causes. March and November.
"Madrid is full of temptations" RAMÓN FREIXA COOK @RamonFreixa
He is one of the leading lights of the Catalonian school living in Madrid. The restaurant bearing his name has earned itself two Michelin stars in record time. Lxs cursivxs nx cxgxn lxs xcxntxs
What does Madrid taste of? Diversity. What's been the greatest improvement in the last few years? The fresh vitality brought in by the new set of chefs. What about the new markets? A genuine resurgence. I always say that San Miguel is ideal for tapas, and in San Antón they've succeeded in combining tapas and shopping. What's your favourite authentic Madrid dish? Tripe and 'broken' fried eggs. For dessert? Desserts are getting better all the time. You can see it happening in bakeries like Oriol Balaguer (José Ortega y Gasset, 44) and Pomme Sucre (Barquillo, 49).
Your latest discovery? The Don Lay Chinese restaurant (Paseo de Extremadura, 30). Which places do you recommend to your friends? A walk in El Retiro Park and, for shopping, the Malasaña and Salamanca districts. Where do you go to buy a giﬅ? Isolée is a good choice, with lots to choose from (Infantas, 19). For flowers, I go to Floreale (Luis Vives, 5). The best place to round oﬀ an evening with a drink? I'd name three: Dry Martini by Javier de las Muelas (Hermosilla, 2), O'Clock (Juan Bravo, 25) and Le Cabrera (Bárbara de Braganza, 2). The most tempting thing in Madrid? Madrid is full of temptations.
WHATEVER YOUR STYLE, WE HAVE SOMETHING TO SUIT ALL TASTES.
8081 SERRANO 8283 GRAN VÍA / SOL 8485 RASTRO FLEA MARKET 8687 SALESAS, TRIBALL AND THE LITERARY QUARTER 8889 HITTING THE MARKETS 9091 BACK TO MADRID'S ROOTS 92 OUTLET CHIC 93 SHOPPING MAP 9495 WHAT'S ON 9697 INTERVIEW Maribel Verdú
ARTE Y CULTURA
SHOPPING The best of each neighbourhood
EACH AREA HAS ITS OWN PERSONALITY. THE MOST CHIC BRANDS ARE IN SALAMANCA; THE LATEST TRENDS, IN SALESAS; TRADITIONAL BOUTIQUES, ON GRAN VĂ?A... WHAT'S MORE, MADRID IS OPEN 365 DAYS A YEAR.
SERRANO Come to the street of temptations Madrid's most fashion-conscious zone is found in Calle Serrano and the surrounding streets. A long, formal and traditional street, its pavements, which have been replaced and widened for the comfort of pedestrians, are flanked by the largest collection of leading fashion brands. From the
majestic presence of Ortega y Gasset to the chic elegance of Jorge Juan and its alleyways. A stroll through the Salamanca neighbourhood, shopping bags in hand, is a traditional pastime for residents of Madrid and a temptation for visitors dazzled by the vast array of objects of desire on display.
STREETS WITH RENOWN . , , .
SALAMANCA DISTRICT 01. Museum of Public Art 02. Carlos de Amberes Foundation 03. La Paz Market 04. Loewe 05. El Jard!n de Serrano 06. Plaza de Col#n 07. Callej#n de Jorge Juan 08. Col#n Tourist Center 09. Teatro Fern$n G#mez 10. National Library 11. Archaeological Museum
Famous jewellers, international boutiques, great designer brands and interior decoration stores, traditional artisanal shops and various delicatessens oﬀer numerous opportunities to find the perfect giﬅ. Spanish fashion deserves special attention, having taken Calle Serrano and the surrounding area by storm during recent decades with a lively presence that has ensured the neighbourhood is a permanent point of interest. The retail and leisure options here are constantly updated, and there are numerous first-class cafés, outdoor bars and restaurants, all of which can now also be enjoyed on Sundays.
GRAN VÍA / SOL The main commercial arteries of Madrid From Monday to Sunday, life in central Madrid's neighbourhoods is a constant bustle of people and action. And all roads lead to the century-old Gran Vía. It has junctions leading onto many other streets, a large number of which are pedestrianized, allowing millions of residents and visitors to discover the brightest, most fascinating side of the city. While its first section is more traditional, lined with emblematic boutiques, cocktail bars and grand hotels, Gran Vía is transformed at the Red de San Luis junction. This is due to the modern influence of Calle de Fuencarral. Here, the flagship stores of firstrate international brands occupy immense premises in historic buildings in a show
WINDOW-SHOPPING ROUTE. Two examples of the varied retail options Madrid has to offer. This page: The classic store Grassy Jewellers. Opposite: Fuencarral's modern look.
of lights and colours that attracts all passers-by. This spectacle continues from Plaza del Callao where it meets Calle Preciados. Pioneering in its restrictions on traﬃc circulation, it is still the busiest street in Spain. At the other end of the district, the Puerta del Sol branches oﬀ into Mayor and Arenal streets, renewed in recent years by the opening of establishments that blend in perfectly with neighbourhood classics. There is so much to choose from that we need to retrace our steps to make sure we don't miss anything. This district is truly the beating heart of Madrid.
CENTRAL MADRID 01. Pza. Sta. B$rbara 02. CafĂŠ Comercial 03. Barcel# Market 04. Pza. del Dos de Mayo 05. Pza. de San Ildefonso 06. Fuencarral Market 07. Triball 08. San Ant#n Market 09. Pza. del Callao 10. Pza. del Carmen 11. Kilometre Zero 12. Pza. Mayor 13. (pera
SHOPPING THE FLEA MARKET Not just on Sundays Visiting the Rastro flea market on Sundays and public holidays is a favourite activity among Madrid’s locals. The countless stalls of this street market, which spread down the hill from Plaza de Cascorro along Ribera de Curtidores, sell everything and anything imaginable: you just have to know how to find what you're looking for! The whole La Latina neighbourhood is immersed in a bustle of trade from first thing in the morning. Fray Ceferino González and San Cayetano streets possess their own interior world. The same can be said of Plaza del General Vara del Rey, a popular destination for collectors of antique journals, paintings, picture cards and prints which they buy, sell and exchange with enthusiasm. OPPORTUNITIES ABOUND These winding streets contain the most unusual items among its second-hand books, retro furniture and all manner of kitsch relics. Your best bet is to be willing to be surprised and share your opinions. The human tidal wave might take us to corners of the market we might never have explored of our own volition. Not many people know that apart from the intense activity in the flea market on Sundays, the area is also a vibrant place to be on weekdays. Newly established antique shops, and clothes and second-hand shops receive daily visits from those willing to diligently rummage through stock at a slower pace.
GUILLERMO GARCÍA DE LA HOZ Designer and interior decorator
Your favourite corner. La Casa de Granada (Doctor Cortezo, 17), to see the sunset. An essential shop. El Anticuario de Belén (Belén, 11), Vintage 4P (Bastero, 4), Youtop!a (Garcilaso, 5) and any of the flea market stalls. The best-decorated premises. Hub Madrid (Gobernador, 26). For a guilty treat. Café Oita (Hortaleza, 31): irresistible. Where to end an evening. The Mercado de la Reina restaurant (Gran V!a, 12). The latest trend. Pad Thai (Paseo del Prado, 40). I love the mix of stained glass windows depicting the Virgin alongside Buddha.
THE PERFECT PLAN , , .
SEVEN DAYS. Life in the area changes radically depending on the day. During the week you can explore new antique shops. On Sundays, check out the most surprising stalls.
Are erected every Sunday at the flea market, from 9 am to 3 pm.
pass through the Sol station every day to make use of the three metro lines and two local train lines.
The oldest shop in Madrid: the Reina Madre chemist's on Calle Mayor.
WALKING ROUTE , , , , .
SALESAS, TRIBALL AND THE LITERARY QUARTER For the latest in design SALESAS ROUTE If you want to shop for the most up-todate trends, then this is the neighbourhood you should be getting lost in. In Argensola, Fernando VI and Regueros streets you can find multibrand stores stocking all the latest fashion. This area simply lives and breathes fashion wherever you go, since it's where all the main showrooms and communications oﬃces are located. Calle de Barquillo is losing some of its old music shops in order to open new multibrand spaces which will catch the eye of all followers of fashion. DISCOVER TRIBALL In Malasaña, this project has revived trade and brought life to the neighbourhood. It's a top destination for those looking for something a bit diﬀerent. Within the triangle of streets
comprising Gran Vía, Calle de Fuencarral and Corredera Baja de San Pablo, a string of small shops have appeared whose predominant features are their modern design, artisanal products and welcoming interiors. DESIGN IN THE LITERARY QUARTER Take advantage of your visit to Madrid to decorate your home. Fans of interior decoration with character are well-advised to take a stroll around the Literary Quarter. Among the neighbourhood's antique bookshops and small cafés you can find vintage furniture and industrial style lighting by the best Scandinavian designers.
MANUEL GARCÍA MADRID @garciamadrid Menswear fashion designer
FOLLOW THE TRENDS. In streets such as Conde Xiquena, Espíritu Santo and Barquillo you will find a rich array of fashion and design stores so you can keep up with the trends.
Don't miss. The squares in the Hapsburg neighbourhood. My favourite is Plaza de la Bas!lica Pontificia de San Miguel. A hotel. The Hotel Ada Gran V!a, for fabulous lunches or an evening cocktail on its terrace. Your private garden. Just behind La Almudena Cathedral, in las Vistillas. A leisurely lunch. Malacat!n (Ruda, 5). The best stew in Madrid: if you manage to eat it all you eat for free. For a homemade treat. At the El Riojano pastry shop (Mayor,10): they've got the best crunis (sweet puff pastry sandwiches). And if you need to buy a gift? I prefer the smaller shops. AMAYA RODRÍGUEZ @mayitori Creative Director
Rock 'n' roll. The whole of the flea market. Looking for inspiration. In Salesas, in the shops on Calle de Orellana. For an original gift. Hakei (Ayala, 34) or Suela (Lagasca, 94). And for the boys? Cos (Claudio Coello, 53) or the shop Lomography (Echegaray, 5). For a drink with friends. At De Diego (Reina, 12) or La Turba (Conde de Xiquena, 3). Where do you escape to? In the Botanical Gardens - I love the smell of damp earth, especially in autumn. Your latest discovery. An atelier run by these really nice girls who make cool and unusual wedding dresses: La Tua Pelle (Sagasta, 26).
HITTING THE MARKETS A must for gourmets Spain's cuisine is famous worldwide, so it's no surprise that Madrid is one of the best places to pick up some exquisite Spanish products. Your best bet is to head down to San Miguel and San Ant贸n markets, where you can not only fill your shopping basket, but also enjoy all kinds of tapas, wines and desserts at its well-presented stalls: the best way to select your favourite products. If you are looking for a more traditional market full of Madrid residents doing their daily shopping then check out La Paz, Chamart铆n or Chamber铆 markets, famous for the quality of their fish, meat, vegetables and preserves.
UPSTAIRS, DOWNSTAIRS. The San Ant贸n Market in the Chueca neighbourhood not only contains stalls for daytime shopping and wine and tapas bars: upstairs there's a restaurant, cocktail bar and terrace.
THE FRESHEST PRODUCTS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD The renewed popularity of quality fruit and vegetable shops is clear at Tomad Mucha Fruta, in the Salesas neighbourhood, an establishment that has been serving local residents for almost a century. Another similar shop, Vázquez, in Calle Ayala, will catch your eye for the attractive way in which produce is displayed, worthy of any of the nearby fashion shops. At Gold Gourmet, Embassy or branches of Mallorca, among other gourmet venues you can purchase the most authentic delicatessen products. These products are a great choice when preparing a picnic to take to El Retiro Park.
MADRIDCARD . I , , . www.madridcard.com
ANA ESCOBAR @anaescobarayc Director of the agency Acción y Comunicación
The best gastronomic experience. Markets offering tasting sessions, such as San Miguel and San Ant#n, as well as spaces such as El Corte Ingles's Experience Gourmet. Where to end an evening. Le Cabrera (B$rbara de Braganza, 2). Where can you go to escape it all? Restaurante L'a (Zurbano, 85). And if you need to buy a gift? I go to the wine shop LaTintorer!a (Marqués de Zafra, 35). They always help me pick the right bottle. Your latest discovery. Renovated El Coque (in Humanes) is spectacular. The biggest temptation. Here you can be out drinking cocktails until the early hours any day of the week. The thing that still surprises you most. The number of new places that open every day. Madrid is a city that never stops.
BACK TO MADRID'S ROOTS Rediscovering the value of artisanal products Madrid smells of violets - so much so, that this flower forms part of its history and has been declared the city's oﬃcial aroma. You will also see that it tastes of violets too, when you try the classic sweets at La Violeta, in Plaza de Canaletas. Another typical sweet product is turrón, the traditional Spanish Christmas nougat that can also be bought during the rest of the year. Pastry shops such as Casa Mira, El Horno de San Onofre and La Mallorquina are famous for their homemade pastries. HAND MADE Fans are one accessory that continues to attract followers, a fact supported by the existence of shops like Casa de Diego, famous for
STEEPED IN HISTORY. On this page, Casa de Diego; on the next page, La Violeta and Casa Mira. Three of the most iconic stores in Madrid. In the vicinity of Puerta del Sol.
their hand made fans. But the traditional accessory par excellence is the Manila shawl, which not only serves as a garment but is also used to decorate street balconies during celebrations. You can find true works of art that wouldn't be out of place in a museum. The iconic store Grassy, located on the junction of Gran Vía and calle Alcalá, has a façade that can claim to be one of the most oﬅen depicted in images of the city, but it is also one of Madrid's most historic jeweller's, to the point where it even has its own antique watch museum.
GONZALO FONSECA Bag designer for Steve Mono
A special hotel. Any with a terrace and views over the roofs of Gran V!a, Alcal$... The best walk. Hapsburg Madrid and (pera. A leisurely lunch. El Cocinillas (San Joaqu!n, 3) and Le Patron (Barco, 27). For a night out with friends. Josealfredo (Silva, 22). For a homemade treat. Casa Vega (Toledo, 57). Where to go shopping. In Calle Fernando VI or Calle Barquillo or rummaging in the flea market. Madrid's biggest temptation. Going out for a beer.
MADRID SHOP ' . .
* DON' T MISS * »TRADITIONAL In La Latina there are many century-old businesses: shoe shops, basket makers, leather workshops and metalworkers. »ANTIQUE In the Literary
Quarter you will find antique bookshops that look like museums.
»MADE TO MEASURE
The sewing workshops, fabric shops and haberdashery stores never go out of fashion. Pontejos is a classic, but there are many more in the areas around Atocha and Huertas.
MIRANDA MAKAROFF @mirandamakaroff Designer, blogger, socialite
A place to be seen. The Wall (Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 47), pure posing and fashion. An exquisite treat. The pastries at Delic (Costanilla de San Andrés, 14). From your brand. Benny Room (Conde Xiquena, 17), sells sweaters that I designed with my mum (mirandaforlydia.com). The best atmosphere. In Malasa"a. For shopping. The vintage shops on Calle Velarde. A real find. Viva la vida (Costanilla de San Andrés, 16), a vegetarian restaurant with a mouthwatering buffet.
OUTLET CHIC Las Rozas Village Half an hour from the centre, intelligent shoppers in search of style at the best price take a trip out to Las Rozas Village. Designed to represent a collage of international architectural styles, the centre brings together an eclectic mix of more than 100 luxury outlet boutiques, with discounts of up to 60% oﬀered all year round. Spanish brands such as Adolfo Domínguez, Becara, Castañer and Roberto Verino can be found alongside Spazio Dolce & Gabbana, Armani Outlet, Burberry, Versace Company Store, Hugo Boss and many more. The meticulous restoration of The Lobby Café and the Shopping Express service (oﬀering free transport from the centre to the Village) make a trip to Las Rozas Village an unforgettable experience. For more information and timetables, visit: www.LasRozasVillage.com/shoppingexpress.
* ALL IN ONE * »AZCA The shopping area of
Nuevos Ministerios is still one of the most popular.
»GOYA Everything you need
within easy reach. A great variety of brands and department stores.
»PRINCESA A magnificent,
pleasant shopping area which isn't as crowded as some others.
»PRÍNCIPE PÍO The shopping centre contained in the old Estaci#n del Norte also offers a wide range of leisure and restaurant options.
WHAT’S ON: SHOPPING >>>>>> GET ALL THE DETAILS ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
HITTING THE SHOPS IN MADRID IS A CULTURAL PHENOMENON. NO WONDER THE GROWING NUMBER OF EVENTS HAS TURNED SHOPPING INTO A CELEBRATION.
Casa Decor To live more stylishly Every year the location changes for the chosen venue (casadecor.com) – decorated for this event – where renowned interior designers, architects and landscapers gather together. >WHEN: May and June. >DON'T MISS: An interesting mix of decoration, architecture and design.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week The city becomes a catwalk The capital's showcase for creations held at Feria de Madrid has become the perfect opportunity to find out what Spanish designers have to oﬀer – from leading names to alternative talent. This big date with fashion draws the attention of professionals from the world of style, as well as followers of the latest trends. An intense week, celebrated twice a year, full of parallel events such as El Ego, dedicated to young, more cutting-edge designers. >WHEN: February and September. Feria de Madrid.
This is the most important international stage for fashion design in Spain.
Fashion's Night Out Salamanca District Fashion's Night Out is held simultaneously in other cities, including London, Paris and New York. Every year, more shops and visitors participate in this aﬅer-hours event. >WHEN: September. >WHERE: Triball and Salamanca take centre stage on this special night.
DecorAcción Literary Quarter The antique dealers and interior designers of Huertas open their doors and the whole neighbourhood throws itself into an event that in just two editions has become something unmissable. A true household party that is also celebrated in the open air, with a street market for the occasion and special activities. >WHEN:
The whole neighbourhood gets dressed up to show its best side. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT:
Día de Mercado At Casa de Campo A novel initiative that already has its dedicated followers. This is your chance to buy the finest seasonal products bearing a quality label. Once a month, the agrifood companies of Madrid present the best they have to oﬀer at Casa de Campo. Meats, oils, wines, cheeses, sweets, fruits and vegetables, straight from the countryside to the city. >WHEN: First Saturday of every month. >WHAT YOU'LL FIND: A wide selection of quality organic products.
Art and antiques fair featuring the best antiques, decorative arts and paintings from Spain and abroad. Feria de Madrid. November. ALMONEDA
San Jorge Juan The arrival of summer Madrid takes to the streets when the weather warms up, and any occasion is worth celebrating. The shortest night of the year, Midsummer's Eve, is celebrated with particular flair along Calle Jorge Juan and its side streets, which are decked out in their finest for the occasion. The area is closed to traffic so the public can come and enjoy its elegant shops, which stay open until late. >WHEN: Midsummer's Eve, 23 June. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: So you can celebrate the arrival of summer in the best surroundings.
Antique dealers, art galleries and collectors fair. With thousands of amazing and affordable pieces. Feria de Madrid. April. SPRING
Lovers of old books flock to the Antiquarian and Second-Hand Book Fair. Paseo de Recoletos. May and September/ October.
"I usually go to the Salamanca district and Calle Fuencarral" MARIBEL VERDÚ ACTRESS
Since she began her career as a teenager, she hasn't stopped working with the best: Francis Ford Coppola, Guillermo del Toro, Alfonso Cuarón…
Where do you like to go shopping? I usually go to the Salamanca and Chueca areas and Calle Fuencarral. Alone or with other people? On my own. Unless it's food shopping, then I'd rather go with other people to help carry everything aﬅer. If you came to Madrid as a tourist, what would you bring back in your suitcase? I would buy some delicious Iberian pork loin, thinly sliced and vacuum packed. Do you like shopping in markets? The new Mercado de San Antón is a real find, just like Mercado de San Miguel and Mercado de la Paz on Calle Ayala; all three are amazing and it's something a bit diﬀerent to go shopping there and sample some tasty food at the same time. Your soﬅ spot for the theatre goes beyond being on stage.
What do you recommend as an audience member? An innovative place such as Microteatro por dinero (Loreto y Chicote, 9). I also go to the Teatro Maravillas oﬅen, which always has a great programme (Manuela Malasaña, 6). Which parks are your favourites? Above all, El Retiro. It's a place that really makes me feel alive. I live very close by as well and stroll around it all throughout the year, because it changes a lot from one season to the next; in springtime I go with a towel, a book and headphones and spend hours there. What other green spaces do you like to wander around? The rose garden at Parque del Oeste is a wonderful spot, and the Royal Botanical Gardens is a must-visit if you come to Madrid, as it's such a peaceful place. Even though they don't charge much for entry, there aren't many people there and you can hear the quiet.
Which places in Madrid make you nostalgic? I like to go down to Paseo de Rosales, walk to the cable car (if you ride it you can see a diﬀerent Madrid), then go to the Temple of Debod and from there enjoy the magical Madrid sunset, which has an intensity I haven't seen anywhere else. And which galleries do you recommend? Those in and around Calle Barquillo and Calle Augusto Figueroa are very beautiful and the neighbourhood is nice. Then there are the ones along Calle Claudio Coello and Villanueva which are truly impressive. Let's finish with a bite to eat. I love a classic like Rafa, on Calle Narváez, but I'm also taken by places like Arzábal (Menéndez Pelayo, 13), La Manduca de Azagra (Sagasta, 14) and Nina (Manuela Malasaña, 10), as I'm a fan of their menus and the weekend brunch, which is simply to die for.
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FUN & GAMES 100-120
EXPERIENCE SPORT DURING THE DAY AND DON'T MISS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE SUN GOES DOWN.
SPORT: 100101 BERNABÉU AND CALDERÓN 102 IF YOU ARE INTO SPORTS 103 ALL EYES ON THE WATER 104 WHAT'S ON 105 INTERVIEW Alejandro Blanco SHOWS: 106 GRAN VÍA 107 PURE THEATRE 108 EVERY KIND OF MUSIC 109 BIG SCREENS 110 WHAT'S ON 111 INTERVIEW Carlos Rivera NIGHT: 112113 OUTDOOR CAFÉS 114115 ALL NIGHT LONG 116 THE VERY BEST FLAMENCO 117 TRADITIONAL CRAFTS 118 POPULAR 'FIESTAS' 119 DISTRICT MAPS 120 INTERVIEW Charles Ross
FUN & GAMES Play with us
MADRID IS LIVING A PERMANENT ROMANCE WITH SPORT, IN ALL ITS DISCIPLINES. GET READY TO CHEER ON SOME OF THE BEST FOOTBALL TEAMS IN THE WORLD.
BERNABÉU AND CALDERÓN A question of colours The people of Madrid are passionate about sport of any kind, with football considered the undisputed king. This isn’t surprising given that its two big teams move genuine masses with every game. The atmosphere on the Paseo de la Castellana is electrifying whenever Real Madrid plays at home. The Santiago Bernabéu stadium bristles with excitement as the team
–comprising some of the world’s best players– comes out onto the pitch. You can also watch Real Madrid as a spectator during their training sessions at the Valdebebas Sports City (check their website to find out which days they open to the public: www.realmadrid.es) or take a tour of the stadium to discover some of the Bernabéu’s hidden nooks and crannies.
A FOOTBALL FAN’S DREAM. Outside the Bernabéu or inside the Vicente Calderón. Right: the Atlético Madrid Museum and Real Madrid’s café.
“ATLETI” AND “RAYO” Madrid’s other top team is Atlético de Madrid. Atlético’s fans (or the “red and whites” as they are popularly known) congregate at the other end of the city to watch their team play at the Vicente Calderón stadium. Considered to be among the best supporters in the world, they can watch their team, Atleti, from a privileged spot on the banks of Madrid Rio Park. A setting that combines sport, leisure, a family atmosphere, as well as a strong desire to win. Although a more humble club by comparison, Rayo Vallecano has achieved promotion to the Primera División (the Spanish Premier League). Madrid, three-times represented in the best Liga in the world.
COMING SOON , - ’ .
JUANMA LÓPEZ ITURRIAGA @Palomero14 Sports commentator
A spot in the city. Plaza de Cibeles. A location encompassing both history and modernity. A bite to eat? Hermanos %lvarez. Affordable seafood (Ricardo San Juan, 20) The best view. From the rooftop café of the Puerta de América Hotel (Av. América, 41). The best place for sport? The classic place is Casa de Campo Park. Where to watch it? In the Sports Palace in Goya. An intimate place. For me, it is Café de Belén (Belén, 5). For the best tapas. At La Toledana (Comandante Zorita, 31).
IF YOU ARE INTO SPORTS... Running or riding a bike Cycling is one of the best ways to practice sport and enjoy the city, thanks to the vast number of kilometres devoted to it. The 64 km-long green ring circles the entire city; you can test your stamina by attempting to complete it. For a gentle stroll, two excellent options are Madrid Rio and the Linear Park of the Manzanares River, which stretches southwards from the river. For those who prefer the exhilaration of the mountain bike, Casa de Campo or Monte del Pardo provide superb conditions, with slightly sandy soil, no mud and exciting circuits. If your favourite sport is running, as well as the places mentioned above, El Retiro, Oeste, Juan Carlos I and Tierno-Galván-Planetarium parks are all perfect locations.
ON YOUR MARKS , , : ( ) ( )
TIME TO GET FIT. By bike in the Madrid Rio river park or canoeing on the lake in El Retiro.
*MORE SPORT* »GOLF In Madrid you can practice your swing at the Olivar de la Hinojosa course, at the National Golf Centre and at the Puerta de Hierro club, amongst others. »RUNNING On many
weekends, 10 km races and half marathons are held around the city, open to anyone who wants to participate. No matter how old, fit or well-trained you are, taking part is what is important.
»SKATEBOARDING A num-
ber of skateboarding parks are scattered around the city to allow youngsters (or the not so young) to practice their somersaults on the skateboard. Those in Madrid Rio and in the Agust!n Rodr!guez Sahag'n Park (Tetu$n district) are the most notable.
ALL EYES ON THE WATER The most refreshing sports Physiotherapists always recommend swimming as the best exercise to strengthen your back. In Madrid you can submerge yourself in a heated pool and practice your strokes at several private gyms or at any of the many municipal sports centres, which open their outdoor pools in summer. Another sport growing in popularity is canoeing. The lakes of El Retiro and Casa de Campo, and the Manzanares river, are perfect places for learning and practicing. You can row on many of the reservoirs in the Region of Madrid –Valmayor, El Atazar, San Juan and Pedrezuela–, where you can also hire a sailing boat.
»SKATING You can go ice-skating in the Ice Palace all year round except in the summer. Outdoors, anywhere is suitable, although the paved walkways of Madrid Rio are a continuous coming and going of skaters everyday, who, if they wish, can continue into the adjoining Linear Park of the Manzanares River. »ROCK-CLIMBING
Climbers can often be seen scaling the walls in Calle Segovia on the corner with Atenas Park. If you prefer an indoor location, the spectacular recently opened Roc 30 rock-climbing wall in Madrid Rio draws both novice and expert climbers.
WHAT’S ON:SPORTS >>>>>>
CATCH UP WITH ALL THE DETAILS AT www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
MADRID HAS AN INTENSE RELATIONSHIP WITH SPORT. FANS ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT EVERY ONE OF THE NUMEROUS EVENTS.
The countdown to the BBVA League Madrid is the province most highly represented in the BBVA League with four teams in First Division (Real Madrid, Atlético, Rayo Vallecano and Getafe). The face-oﬀ between Atlético Madrid and Real Madrid supporters promises to be a cliﬀhanger. An endurance race that both clubs have to fit in with their European competition commitments. >WHEN: Until
the middle of May.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN’T MISS IT: Cristiano
Ronaldo and company will fight to revalidate the title.
Madrid is one of the host cities for the World Men's Handball Championship. Matches will be played in the Caja M$gica stadium. From 12 to 27 January 2013. LA VUELTA A ESPA³A BIKE RACE
The whole city takes to the streets, giving the impression of a popular festival, to cheer on the cyclists as they speed down Paseo de la Castellana racing towards the finishing line. September. MAPOMA
The Rock ‘n’ Roll Marathon of Madrid promises to be an unforgettable party. April 28, 2013.
Basketball Whites against blues
A day at the races Galloping emotions
Come and share in the excitement of the Real Madrid basketball team matches, especially if these are played against Estudiantes, the local rival, against whom they compete in the major competitions. >WHEN: Every weekend. >FOR WHOM: There are legions of Spanish basketball fans, many of whom live in Madrid.
At Madrid’s racecourse there is much more to do besides watching the races and placing a bet. During the races in the summer evenings, the outdoor bar becomes a hotspot for people to hang out. >WHEN: From March. >WHAT IS THERE TO SEE? The passion of the races and live betting, and beautiful people enjoying a drink.
“Madrid is much more than just football” ALEJANDRO BLANCO SPANISH OLYMPIC COMMITTEE CHAIRMAN
Already experienced as president of the Spanish Olympic Committe, he is now heading Madrid's 2020 Olympic bid. What sports infrastructures can Madrid boast about? It has some splendid sports facilities for practicing and watching sport, and it is one of the major world capitals for event organisation. Is Madrid about more than just football? Much more. And there are thousands
of clubs and thousands of competitions in other disciplines held every weekend to prove it. Which is your favourite location for practicing sport? Whenever I can I like to run outdoors in parks like Parque del Oeste, Casa de Campo or Madrid Río. Unfortunately I don’t have much
time, so I usually practise sport in hotel gyms. Can you recommend a restaurant to restore our energy? That’s diﬃcult. Madrid has something for everyone’s taste. A favourite place for complete relaxation? The sunsets at the Temple of Debod. I could see them for many years from my oﬃce when I was the chairman of the Spanish Judo Federation, and it helped me to concentrate. What has been your latest discovery in Madrid? The Madrid Rio river park, a giant space for Madrid residents to use and enjoy, with all kinds of sports facilities to add to the already extensive oﬀer in the capital.
A SHOW. An actor from The Lion King. Other options: the listings for the Fernán Goméz (above) and the Canal theatres.
GRAN VÍA The soundtrack to Madrid Quite some time ago Madrid’s Gran Vía became the main drag for musicals in the whole of Spain. There isn’t a production worth its salt that hasn’t previously been staged on one of its many theatres, before touring the rest of the country. Some arrive directly from Broadway, but there is also an excellent variety of home-grown productions reasserting the music and icons of several generations of Spaniards. If you attend a musical in Madrid, you’ll probably be stepping inside one of the enormous theatres on the Gran Vía. Outside they glitter with brightly coloured neon lights, but inside a panoply of equipment and skill is deployed.
BEYOND GRAN VÍA The boom of the musical genre in Madrid and the huge number of theatres and venues available for staging and performing great productions has oﬅen lead to the shows transferring to other locations beyond the Gran Vía. Occasionally, though increasingly, the Nuevo Apolo theatre (in Plaza de Tirso de Molina) puts on this type of show. As does the Caser Calderón (in Plaza de Jacinto Benavente), and the Nuevo Teatro Alcalá (in Calle Jorge Juan, Salamanca district). Children’s musical productions are oﬅen performed at the Teatro Arenal (Calle Arenal, next to Puerta del Sol).
FERNAN GÓMEZ , , ’ .
PURE THEATRE The city’s (many) stages Steeped in theatre tradition, Madrid is home to a large number of venues staging a wide and varied selection of productions: from the novelty Teatros del Canal and Matadero’s Las Naves del Español to Teatro Español on bustling Plaza Santa Ana and Teatro María Guerrero hidden away in Las Salesas district. The city’s most long-established theatres include Teatro Lara, Teatro La Latina and Teatro Infanta Isabel. If you fancy watching an old classic head to Teatro Pavón, or if you're in the mood for circus then Teatro Circo Price is your best bet. As its name suggests, Teatro de la Zarzuela specializes in zarzuelas, or Spanish operettas, whereas Teatro Real is the venue for operas. For big fans of contemporary theatre, Madrid hosts the Festival Escena Contemporánea in January and February.
*ALTERNATIVE STAGES* »MICROTEATRO POR DINERO (MICROTHEATRE FOR MONEY) A unique experience has
opened its doors to young playwrights in Triball, where actors and directors offer spectators short theatre performances à la carte.
»KUBRICK FABRIK Opened barely a year ago in the Usera district, this is a venue for artistic creation where theatre and dance go hand in hand.
»LA USINA Located in Arganzuela, this is a small
theatre come academy which attempts to combine innovative efforts to offer an open door for new creators.
»LA ESCALERA DE JACOB At street level it appears to be a bar, but the theatrical venue in the basement offers all kinds of performances. In Lavapiés. »AZARTE Three small theatres for plays, rehearsals and workshops distributed over 260 square metres in this theatre in Chueca.
MAGICAL EVENINGS. An enthusiastic crowd during one of the performances at Music Day. Right: entrance to the Princesa Cinema which shows films in their original language.
EVERY KIND OF MUSIC Madrid sounds good When the sun sets, live music permeates the city air, as top-class concerts are held on a nearly daily basis. All the best bands include Madrid on their tours; it is definitely a required stop for their live promotion. They visit both small venues as well as large stadiums where the international stars are always welcomed with great expectation. Since 2006, Music Day has been held on 21 June, a day when Madrid celebrates with a packed weekend schedule of concerts. SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE With regards to musical styles, Madrid is a mirror of the world. The Veranos de la Villa festival is enthusiastically welcomed each year with its impressive night time cycles. Classical and choral music as well as the best soundtracks are performed at the National Auditorium. Private venues such as the Juan March Foundation or the courtyard in La Casa Encendida put on classical music concerts as well as the most avant-garde or electronic musical performances. The city is filled with the sound of jazz during the International Festival (November), and flamenco during the Suma Flamenca event.
ENRIQUE CALABUIG Partner Music2day, Music Day Organiser
A special place in the city. Gran V!a, a very Madrid-style meeting place where everyone feels welcome. And for chilling out? A stroll in Retiro Park. Where can you listen to the best concerts? In the Price, 'Music Hall' of Madrid. Plus, of course, on the festival stages in the Matadero. Post-concert plans. Carry on dancing till I drop in Costello, Sol or La Ruta. Latest discovery. Around Jorge Juan and Serrano. Your latest discovery. The Hotel ADA terrace, a fantastic surprise. If it only had concerts...
5D=60<4B BIG SCREENS The capital of original language cinemas Flashes, crowds, famous actors, a red carpet and thousands of onlookers in front of a brightly lit marquee. An event that might be seen any week in Plaza del Callao, the chosen location for major film premieres in Spain. If you prefer your films in their original language, make your way to Martín de los Heros –and the recently inaugurated Paseo de las Estrellas (Walk of Fame), devoted to the stars of Spanish cinema– and the neighbouring Plaza de los Cubos. Original version films are also screened at the Ideal cinema, with its fantastic glasswork façade, in Plaza de Jacinto Benavente, at the Verdi cinema in Chamberí, and at the big screens of the Cine Cité multiplex in Manoteras. Once again Madrid proves why it is the capital of Spain. CLASSICS AND RARE FILMS The Filmoteca, in the legendary Cine Doré, screens classic and rare films. During the summer months, it is impossible to avoid the big outdoor screens in La Bombilla and Tierno Galván parks, as well as those mounted for the film festivals of Documenta Madrid in May and LesGaiCineMad in November.
GRAN V#A 01. Plaza de Espa"a 02. Callao 03. Triball 04. Preciados 05. Red de San Luis
06. Plaza de V$zquez de Mella 07. Fine Arts Circle 08. Puerta del Sol
WHAT’S ON: SHOWS >>>>>>
CATCH UP WITH ALL THE DETAILS AT www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
WHEN YOU COME TO VISIT MADRID YOU WILL DISCOVER A CITY BRIMMING WITH VITALITY AND A PROGRAMME FULL OF ATTRACTIVE EVENTS, WHATEVER YOUR PREFERENCES.
Autumn to Spring Festival Venues The 30th Autumn to Spring Festival, which kicked oﬀ in October 2012, is set to be extended up until June 2013. This is an exceptional opportunity to enjoy contemporary theatre, dance, music and circus in a single festival set entirely in the capital. An event that changes format to adapt to new times and oﬀer the very best performing arts programme all year round. >WHEN: From
31 October 2012 to 9 June 2013. Various venues. >YOU CAN´T MISS THIS: International artists.
ALSO MOZART'S DON GIOVANNI
Comic opera in two acts produced jointly by Teatro Real opera house and the Aix-enProvence Festival. With musical direction by Alejo Pérez and Dmitri Tcherniakov as stage director. From 3 to 24 April 2013. DOCUMENTA MADRID
Of all the Madrid film festivals, this one, dedicated to documentaries, brings in the largest number of spectators. From 5 to 12 May, 2013. GOSPEL
The Festival of Gospel and Black Spiritual music, a must-see event, generates a festive atmosphere in the run up to Christmas. At the Teatro Fern$n G#mez. December. TALENT MADRID
Suma Flamenca Top figures
Music Day Don’t stop the beat
One of the best festivals of its kind in the world could only happen in Madrid. With the Teatros del Canal as the main venue, it returns to Madrid in 2013 for its 8th edition. >WHEN: June and July. >FOR WHOM: Connoisseurs and enthusiasts.
The success of the previous years has consolidated this event at which you can hear the latest music on the stages of the Matadero and Circo Price. >WHEN: June. >WHAT’S PLAYING? The latest hits by Spanish and international pop and rock groups.
A new festival that aims to provide a launch pad for original performing arts works from all disciplines. At Teatros del Canal. From 21 February to 2 March 2013.
“The sky over Madrid is what inspires me” CARLOS RIVERA ACTOR AND SINGER
He relocated from Mexico to Madrid to star in the musical ‘The Lion King’, a big hit on Gran Vía. @_CarlosRivera
How does it feel to be the king of Gran Vía? It’s pretty cool. Especially because of the lovely palace where I live with my pride, the Teatro Lope de Vega. Which places do you recommend to your friends when they come to Madrid? El Retiro park is always one of my favourite places to visit. Name some places that make you feel as if you were in Mexico. In Tepic (Pelayo, 4) and La Mordida (Belén, 13), in Chueca. Any suggestions for a great night out with friends? You’d never guess that our favourite place is a karaoke in an underground car park.
Is there a place in Madrid that invites you to sing and dance? The place I mentioned in my previous answer. It’s called Master Plató! (Plaza de los Mostenses, s/n). Have you found a special place that inspires you? The view I have of the sky over Madrid from my flat, and the beautiful buildings along Gran Vía. Have you had an opportunity to go shopping? Where? Yes, around Serrano. And Fuencarral also has some great outlets. What has surprised you most about Madrid? That it is a city with such a busy social life, at all times of the day or night.
OUTDOOR CAFÉS Open all year That Madrid stands for life on the streets is nothing new, and that one of the best ways to relax outside is to enjoy a drink and a tap in one of the city’s outdoor cafés is also no secret. Shaded by parasols in the summer, and sheltered by roofs in the winter, there are some legendary locations where to sit and enjoy the bustling atmosphere, morning, evening and night: in La Latina district or Lavapiés or in the cafés on such squares as Santa Ana, San Ildefonso, Santa Bárbara, Dos de Mayo, Vázquez de Mella and Chueca. Some have magnificent views: for example, those lining Paseo de Recoletos at the start of the Castellana, like El Espejo terrace with its pretty modernist dining
AL FRESCO. Good weather ensures that you can sit out on the outdoor cafés through most of the year, including those in Plaza Santa Ana.
room; at the Café Oriente facing the Royal Palace and next door to the Teatro Real; the Atenas Park and the recently opened cafés in Madrid Rio. QUIETER CAFÉS Other venues are more suitable for a relaxed chat. Head towards Calle Serrano for example, or the Fine Arts Circle, or make your way over to Plaza de Olavide and around Príncipe Pío. At the weekend and for family outings the outdoor tables and chairs in the Casa de Campo are ideal. But don’t fret too much: you’ll find one on almost every corner.
A BREAK . .
A BIRD’S EYE VIEW. From one end of the city to the other, three places to have drinks and fun: the terraces at Gau Café and at the Silken Puerta de América and Urban hotels.
*FROM ABOVE* »URBAN One of the most
popular outdoor bars in the late evenings and at night. Magnificent views over the Spanish parliament building in the Huertas district, in the hotel of the same name.
»THE ROOF This is the Hotel
Me’s roof terrace, in Plaza Santa Ana. Cosmopolitan atmosphere, chic clientele, great cocktails...
»HOTEL ADA Located at the start of the Gran V!a with spectacular views over the avenue and its most emblematic buildings. It is also possible to dine here. »GAU CAFÉ In the building
of the former Pious Schools, today the offices of the UNED open university, in the heart of the Lavapiés district. Curious, different, largely undiscovered. And affordable.
»SKYNIGHT Located at the
top of Hotel Silken Puerta de América. If this entire hotel is pure design, then the five spaces that make up this exclusive terrace are no less stylish.
STRONG BEATS. Iboga nightclub, where the emphasis is on world music. Opposite Tartufo and the owners of Siroco.
ALL NIGHT LONG from one day till the next Part of Madrid’s culture and character derives from its nightlife when the clubs not only generate ambience and fun, but also culture with their great music. In this city, you can cross the road and go from ballroom dancing in an old-time dance hall to a hang-out with the public in thrall to club culture. Remember the distinction between establishments as you organise your night out: bars and cafés open until 3 in the morning; clubs and aﬅerhours carry on until dawn. CHOOSE ME Begin the evening with some live music: jazz, salsa, rock... there are venues for small or large audiences. If you prefer something quieter, opt for an indoor or outdoor chill-out zone.
GETTING AROUND AT NIGHT ( ) . . ..
Cocktails are a popular choice from early evening. Later, the choice of bars widens, and it becomes a question of preferences, whether its chatting, dancing or singing. It’s up to you: mixing with the in-crowd in Las Salesas; with the young and informal around Bilbao and Alonso Martínez; frequenting the traditional bars in the Salamanca district or around the Bernabéu; joining the university crowd around Moncloa; an eclectic setting in Chueca; a lively international atmosphere around Huertas; the alternative scene in Lavapiés; or rock-punk-kitsch-indie music in the inexhaustible “movida” ambience of Malasaña.
BELĂ‰N CHANES Manager of the Ocho y Medio club
A restaurant for a leisurely lunch? Xin (Manuela Malasa"a, 5). They have infinite patience with people like me and my friends. After a night out on the town? Iberia (Glorieta Ru!z JimĂŠnez, 4) Your favourite concert venue? El Sol, where you can both see and touch (Jardines, 3) A shop to buy gifts? Two: Curiosite (Corredera Alta de San Pablo, 28) and V!ctimas del Celuloide (Santiago, 8). The best place to end an evening? I work at weekends; on weekdays, Toni 2 never lets you down (Almirante, 9).
CANTE JONDO The very best flamenco The fine performances by flamenco artists long ago made Madrid a visitor attraction for Spanish and overseas flamenco lovers. June is the month for the acclaimed festival Suma Flamenca, featuring outstanding flamenco singers, guitarists and dancers, who will be performing their art in emblematic settings around the capital. SINGING, DANCING AND GUITARS You can find the best interpretation of flamenco dancing in its purest form, accompanied by guitars and hand-clapping, at Casa Patas (calle de los Cañizares, 10), a name associated with the best flamenco art which has established its own Flamenco Conservatory. Other famed venues include Café de Chinitas in the Opera district, El Corral de la Morería in Vistillas and Las Carboneras just behind Calle Mayor. All include a meal with the show.
TRADITIONAL CRAFTS Start tapping your heels Aﬅer a stimulating evening at a tablao or flamenco bar, you may want to try this passionate dancing for yourself. There are several places that will teach you the basic first steps on request. One is the traditional academy Amor de Dios, situated on the top floor of the Antón Martín market building (in the district of the same name in the city centre). You don’t need an appointment or to sign up for an entire course. The only prerequisite if you want to start learning the art of clicking your heels is to bring a pair of shoes. You don’t need to go far to acquire
them: Don Flamenco, just a few streets away, is dedicated exclusively to making hand-made flamenco footwear. LEONARD COHEN’S GUITAR Ten minutes away, opposite the Teatro Real, artisan guitar makers at Felipe Conde (the establishment where musician Leonard Cohen bought his flamenco guitar 40 years ago) can boast of making the best guitars since 1915.
A DEEP-ROOTED TRADITION. Workshop in the Felipe Conde shop specialised in flamenco guitars. Left: performance at the Suma Flamenca festival.
DID YOU KNOW? . , , ( ).
ANTONIO NAJARRO Director of the Spanish National Ballet
What in Madrid would you recommend to your friends? The summer concerts in the Sabatini Gardens. Which place inspires you most? Paseo del Prado. A traditional corner of Madrid. La Capilla de la Bolsa restaurant (La Bolsa, 12). Another which is sheer avant-garde. The hotel Eurostars Madrid Tower (Paseo de la Castellana, 259B). Where can we find you shopping? In Flip (Mayor, 19) or along Calle Fuencarral. What do you like most about Madrid? Its friendly and welcoming people.
POPULAR 'FIESTAS' In the company of “chulapos” and “manolas” When the fiestas come around, the streets fill with food stalls and improvised musical stages, while the bars bring their counters out on to the streets. Dressed as “chulapos” (the local residents of Maravillas or Malasaña) and “manolos” (those from Lavapiés), Madrilenians come out to celebrate the most traditional of festivals, alongside whoever wishes to join them. SAN ISIDRO FESTIVITIES For Madrid's patron saint's day, in the middle of May, the festivities and celebrations cross over to the other side of the Manzanares river to the district of Carabanchel to celebrate the fiesta on the fields of San Isidro. If you have never seen it before, don’t miss the choirs and groups giving live performances of Madridthemed zarzuelas (light operas) and
dancing the typical local dance, the chotis. Great fun. In August, Lavapiés celebrates its traditional festivities in honour of San Lorenzo and San Cayetano. Wander through the narrow illuminated streets bedecked with Manila shawls for a spectacle that you can only see here. FESTIVAL OF LA PALOMA These festivities celebrate another of Madrid’s patron saints, this time in August. The festive atmosphere extends to the streets adjoining the church devoted to this virgin (in La Latina), from the church of San Francisco el Grande to Plaza de la Cebada. The celebrations for youngsters, including concerts, are held in Las Vistillas and in Cornisa park.
NEW YEAR . , , .
“They serve the best G&Ts in the world here” CHARLES ROSS BUSINESSMAN
In love with Madrid, he travels the world promoting his latest creation, Fever-Tree premium tonic. In your opinion, which is the best all-round hotel in Madrid? El Único (Claudio Coello, 67). It’s perfect for accommodation, meetings and excellent food. The Villa Magna (Paseo Castellana, 22) and Urban (San Jerónimo, 34) are sheer luxury. The architectural design and the rooﬅop terrace of the Puerta América (Av. América, 41) never cease to amaze me. Where do you like to go for an appetizer? The markets are great places, for example San Antón (Augusto Figueroa, 24) or San Miguel (Plaza San Miguel). Another great option is the Hapsburg district. A place for good tapas? Casa Lucas (Cava Baja, 30), La Perejila (Cava Baja, 25), la Taberna de Goyo (Cava Baja, 34), La Bardemcilla (Augusto Figueroa, 47), Casa Botín (Cuchilleros, 17)… Their tapas are all
a delight for the tastebuds. Not to mention El Atómico (Meléndez Valdés, 58). They serve the best potato salad. A restaurant for a leisurely lunch? El Urrechu (Barlovento, 1), Alkalde (Jorge Juan, 10) or Goizeko Wellington (Villanueva, 34), especially if, like me, you love Basque cuisine. For an oriental flavour, Sushi 99 (Ponzano, 99). An aﬅernoon gin & tonic? There are so many places! O’Clock (Juan Bravo, 25), Urban, Le Cabrera (Bárbara de Braganza, 2), The Gin Room (Academia, 7)… Spain is the country that makes the best G&Ts in the world. Where do you prefer to spend a great night with friends? There are also many places: Serrano 41, Moma (José Abascal, 56), Fortuny (Fortuny, 34), Teatro Real (Pza. Isabel II) The Fine Arts Circle (Alcalá, 42).
AS A FAMILY 122-132
FROM ATTRACTIONS AND GAMES TO EXHIBITIONS AND MYSTERIES FOR KIDS AND ADULTS OF ALL AGES.
122 BIG THRILLS 123 GREAT SHOWS 124125 SPORTING PASSIONS 126127 ACCESSIBLE SCIENCE 128 A SPECIAL PROGRAMME 129 MYSTERIES AND LEGENDS 130131 INTERVIEW Carolina Herrera 132 WHAT'S ON
AS A FAMILY
Fun for all ages
THERE IS A MADRID ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS, OFFERING COUNTLESS ACTIVITIES TO BE ENJOYED BY YOUR CHILDREN, NIECES AND NEPHEWS, OR GRANDCHILDREN. BUT BE CAREFUL: THEY'LL WANT TO COME BACK.
BIG THRILLS At Casa de Campo Do you want to really amaze the children? Thrills are guaranteed at Madrid's Parque de Atracciones amusement park and, in particular, on the Starflyer, which involves a 20-storey free fall! When you begin to feel the heat, cool oﬀ with a splash on the Fjords, Rapids and Sawmill water rides. At night, you can take a ride on the Big Wheel and contemplate Madrid from a height. At the Warner Bros Park, which competes with the Parque de Atracciones to see which can oﬀer the most devious loops, you can find some of your favourite cartoon characters, life-sized. Go and be amazed by the animals at the Zoo-Aquarium,
along with cute creatures such as Panda cubs Po and De De, who are already two years old. Another tip: don’t miss the sea lions’ show. FROM THE POLES TO THE MANGROVES At Faunia visitors can immerse themselves in exotic ecosystems recreated in detail, including the African jungle, North and South Poles, and mangroves. The park is both a zoo and a botanical garden.
MADRID FROM ABOVE , , .
BIG THRILLS. At the Parque de Atracciones, the Abismo rollercoaster reaches 100 km/h. On the right: jugglers show off their tricks at the renovated Teatro Circo Price, now a multipurpose venue.
GREAT SHOWS For all audiences Well-known and loved fairy tales and films in the forms of musicals are also very popular with young audiences. The Lion King, Cinderella and The Sound of Music are just some of the shows that make for a truly unforgettable evening of singing and dancing. All other theatre genres for the little ones, such as puppet shows, clowns, storytelling can also be enjoyed both in matinée and evening sessions at venues throughout Madrid. The Teatro Circo Price is a multipurpose venue staging shows for all the family. This
space, very diﬀerent to a traditional circus, is designed to be enjoyed above all by children, although adults will also be amazed by the spectacle. Every year, the best specialists participate in its Christmas programme. These experts also pass on their skills in workshops. Here you can witness the most innovative and surprising artistic movements and learn from the experts who pass on their skills in workshops.
0B050<8;H SO MUCH IN PLAY .
SPORTING PASSIONS Goooaaal! With 9 Champions League Cups and 32 Spanish Liga titles under its belt, Real Madrid has won more awards than any other club in history. A tour of the Bernabéu allows you to get right to the heart of the stadium, sit on the benches and tread the pitch. At Atlético de Madrid's stadium more than 1,000 historical items are on display; Rayo Vallecano's stadium sings the praises of the epic survivors; and the Spanish team's stadium, in Las Rozas, celebrates their World Cup win in South Africa. START THE ENGINES A rally legend, Carlos Sainz gives his name to one of the most spectacular go-karting circuits around. And at the Palacio de Hielo (only closed in the summer) you can enjoy some great ice-skating on an Olympic-sized rink.
*AL FRESCO* »MADRID RÍO The city's new green avenue offers BMX tracks, rollerblading and skating, a climbing wall and much more. »SNOW ZONE The Xanad'
shopping centre boasts the only indoor ski slope in Spain (A-5 road, Arroyomolinos).
» PICNIC Madrid's main green areas, like Casa de Campo, Monte del Pardo and Dehesa la Villa, have picnic tables where families can enjoy outdoor eating.
LAURA CEBALLOS @GreyElephantMad Director of the children's centre Grey Elephant
A place to have a meal/snack with the kids. For a meal San Miguel Market or Harina in Puerta de Alcal$, and for an afternoon snack: churros at San Ginés. A park that gives them space to play. Plaza de Oriente, near the Palace and the Teatro Real. They can play on the swings until they are tired and learn the names of the Visigoth kings. The most fascinating museum for children. The Prado or the Archaeological Museum which is currently being refurbished. And if you need to buy a gift? The sweets made by nuns available at Jard!n del Convento (Cord#n, 1).
FUN. The pandas Po and De De born at the Zoo Aquarium, and the riverside park Madrid Río. On the previous page, the Real Madrid Museum at the Bernabéu Stadium.
ACCESSIBLE SCIENCE Learning through play Enjoying yourself while you learn: that's the way education should be, and in Madrid many centres know how to make this happen. Starting with a classic, we have the National Museum of Natural Science, where dinosaur skeletons are the main attraction. At the National Museum of Science and Technology we can learn about the world's greatest inventions - including many from Spain. The Museum of Anthropology offers a thrilling journey into the past, as does the Archaeological Museum. The first makes a call for tolerance and respect for
others, while the second reveals keys to history seen through other eyes. BEYOND THE STARS At CosmoCaixa, science is brought to visitors through play, even with the most abstract concepts. At the Planetarium we can see beyond the stars. Meanwhile, the Imax cinema shows 3D documentaries reproducing black holes and stellar explosions.
CRISTINA CASTRO @jristina Director of the magazine On Madrid
A must. Lunch or a picnic at El Retiro Park. An experience. The children's sessions at Microteatro por Dinero. To eat. Le Pain Quotidien and La Cocinita de Chamber! (Trafalgar, 12). Madrid's best-kept secret. The children's events at the libraries. For shopping. Cool Kids (Antonio Acu"a, 10), BebĂŠs de Chamber! (Gonzalo C#rdoba, 7) and Baby Deli (various branches).
On display at the National Museum of Natural Science. Many have fallen in Spain
Each in its own ecosystem, live together at the Zoo Aquarium at Casa de Campo.
SCIENCE. Life in the desert recreated at the Museum of Anthropology; an experiment at CaixaForum. On the left: the dinosaur room at the Science Museum.
You can see them at the Real Madrid stadium museum.
0B050<8;H A SPECIAL PROGRAMME In their own language Children and adults have diﬀerent ways of looking at art. For this reason, Madrid's three largest museums, the Prado, Reina Sofía and Thyssen, as well as the cultural centre La Casa Encendida, oﬀer a special programme of events for kids, from workshops through to children's audioguides. MADRID FOR KIDS The city organises family tours through the Colón and Plaza Mayor tourist centres. The routes last two hours, encompassing Hapsburg Madrid, Royal Madrid and El Retiro Park. You'll be given a map showing diﬀerent stops on the way and an activities book so that the kids are entertained during breaks.
GROUP TRIPS. Above: children listen to a guide on a visit to the Prado Museum. Below: A "family tour" of Royal Madrid. On the right: inside the Ratón Pérez Museum.
* KEY OUTINGS * »TITIRILANDIA The puppet theatre at El Retiro Park offers free, open-air entertainment all year round.
A visit here will change the way you look at the plant world. It is home to exotic species from across the globe.
When the weather is good, families and couples take to the lake in El Retiro Park.
MYSTERIES AND LEGENDS Don't open that door... Madrid is full of secrets. For example, did you know that ratón Pérez, Spain's tooth fairy mouse, lives here? In a doorway on Calle Arenal you'll find his fun museum, while the cultural centre Casa de América, located in a former palace, has all the atmosphere of a haunted house. A visit full of mystery will put you in contact with the spirit world. Without leaving the world of shadows, we descend into the old Chamberí metro station, which aﬅer falling into disuse was renamed Andén Cero, and is now an Underground Museum. Strong emotions can be found where you least expect it. The Convent of
San Plácido, near Gran Vía, houses an elaborate candelabra that serves to recall the Holy Oﬃce of the Inquisition in the 17th century. SCREAMS OF LAUGHTER Two attractions that never fail are the theatrical frights of the Horror Tunnel at the Amusement Park, where the screams you hear are of laughter, and the Wax Museum with its gallery of monsters and waxwork models of famous figures past and present.
MICRÓPOLIX , .
"I love museums that have activities for children" CAROLINA HERRERA DESIGNER
The daughter of the fashion designer fell in love with a bullfighter and stayed in Madrid, where she founded the first of her Baby Deli stores, specializing in organic and educational products for all the family. @babydeli
What place do you recommend to friends when they come to Madrid? Plaza Mayor. I used to live there and I was able to experience its magic first-hand. People don't oﬅen get to know it because they only pass through. What are the latest trends in children's leisure activities? I love taking my children to art galleries and museums that have special activities for them. That way they can have fun while they learn about art. Any place in particular? The Prado Museum. I think it is one
of the world's best museums. Its art collection is wonderful and children find it interesting, too. Though they need a good guide who knows how to get them interested.
children can play freely and enjoy a bit of nature.
Where would you suggest for a family meal? El Botánico restaurant (Ruiz de Alarcón, 27), close to the Prado: it's quiet and has a magnificent shady terrace.
Where do you go when you have to buy a giﬅ? To my own shop, Baby Deli (Lagasca, 54). Where else would I go?
The best adventure in Madrid is... Going to any of the parks and gardens in the heart of Madrid, where
Which is the best of them? El Retiro Park, without a doubt.
Your latest discovery in Madrid. The markets. I love buying fresh fruit and vegetables, and natural foods, and that's where I find them.
>>>>>> FOR FURTHER INFORMATION visit www.esmadrid.com/en/children-madrid
MADRID IS A CITY FOR ALL AGES, AND KIDS ARE NO EXCEPTION: JUST TAKE A LOOK AT THE PROGRAMME OF EVENTS DESIGNED WITH CHILDREN IN MIND.
The Christmas spirit is here and everywhere At Christmas time, street markets, like the one held in Plaza Mayor, designer lighting, nativity scenes and theme shows pop up all over Madrid. Visitors can enjoy all the magic of the season on the 'Navibus', a Christmas bus on which a group of guides show them the best the capital has to oﬀer in the Yuletide season. The celebrations reach their climax with the Three Kings' Parade. From 2 December to 6 January traditions still dazzle visitors today. >WHEN:
>ALL THE MAGIC: Centuries-old
TAKE NOTE CIRCUS SCHOOL
Do you dream of being a trapeze artist? Well, Teatro Circo Price is running a children’s workshop where you can learn lots of secrets from the circus. From 1 February to 31 May. CARNIVAL
The people of Madrid dress up in bright colours and take to the streets during the week before Lent. From 17 to 22 February. SWIMMING POOLS
There's a vast network of municipal swimming pools providing relief from the heat. From June to September.
Teatralia The festival for younger audiences
Kites flying in the sky In Juan Carlos I Park
Puppets, theatre, dance and music, especially for children. This event will involve performances in many locations, from alternative venues, such as Cuarta Pared and Pradillo, to publicly owned centres such as La Casa Encendida and the Fine Arts Circle. >WHEN: March. >WHAT TO EXPECT: Incredible performances.
The opening of the park in 1992 marked the recovery of a zone which had badly deteriorated. Today, it features a special area known as the 'kite esplanade', where many fans of this hobby come to fly their kites when the weather is good. >WHEN: Spring is the best season here. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's a unique visual spectacle.
ENJOY THE OUTDOORS AND DISCOVER THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PARKS AND GARDENS ON FOOT.
134135 MADRID RÍO PARK 136137 HISTORIC PARKS 138 SUNSETS 139 GARDENS 141 PEDESTRIAN AREAS 142 PASEO DEL PRADO 143 INTERVIEW Chema Martínez
Madrid invites you to take a stroll
BREATHE DEEPLY AND COME AND DISCOVER THE PARKS, GARDENS AND PEDESTRIAN AREAS OF MADRID: REVITALISE YOURSELF AND ENJOY THE OUTDOORS.
MADRID RÍO PARK The vast green avenue It may be hard to believe but just a few years ago this 10km-long parkland, which today is filled with cyclists and people taking a stroll in the shade of its loﬅy trees, was a congested motorway next to the Manzanares river. The road, however, was moved underground to make way for the vegetation, resulting in a green avenue that links up woodland and historic parks. What's more, this project designed by the Burgos&Garrido studio boasts outdoor cafés, courts to practise sports ranging from basketball, skateboarding and in-line skating, BMX circuits, a climb-
ing wall and the new city beach, with clouds of spray and water jets where you can cool oﬀ. FROM ONE PARK TO ANOTHER The route begins at Casa de Campo, running past Campo del Moro and San Isidro Park before reaching Arganzuela Park. It continues along Tierno Galván Park and then making its way through a final section along the Linear Park of the Manzanares River.
GO RUNNING ' , ' : , .
Madrid is one of the European cities with the largest proportion of green areas.
This is the length of the vast green avenue that is the riverside project Madrid R!o.
The surface area of Casa de Campo, four times the size of Central Park.
HISTORIC PARKS Romanticism Designed to be enjoyed by the royal family, El Retiro Park is the green heart of Madrid. As well as admiring well-tended spaces such as the Cecilio RodrĂguez and Parterre gardens, you can go boating on the lake or check out an art exhibition at the resplendent Glass Palace (you can even have your tarot read along the way). A popular circuit for runners, Paseo de Coches also plays host to the Book Fair at the end of spring, where you can learn about the latest releases. Casa de Campo was once a royal hunting ground. Today, it is one of the largest city parks in Europe, serving as an open-air setting for a fun day outdoors. Go for a cycle and check out the mountain bike
circuits, have a picnic under the pines and oaks, or head down to the lake's leisure area: the possibilities are endless. NOBLE SPLENDOUR Inspired by French and Italian styles, the magnificent Capricho Park was commissioned in the 18th century by the Duchess of Osuna. Neglected for many years, in recent decades it has recovered its former splendour. The nearby Quinta de los Molinos Park also has noble origins. It boasts pools, fountains, ponds and a small palace, as well as the mill which gives the park its name.
JOAQUĂ?N ARAUJO @joaquinaraujo Naturalist and environmental communicator
When is the best time of year to visit Madrid? In autumn, when life is renewed. What can Madrid be proud of? Its high number of trees per inhabitant. What is the city's greatest environmental treasure? The vast natural space Monte de El Pardo. Which is the city's most beautiful but lesser-known garden? El Capricho de Osuna, for its range of plants and rich wildlife. What location offers the best views? I like to film from the rooftop of the Fine Arts Circle.
NATURAL SPACES. Above: a bandstand in the romantic Capricho Park; jogging path at Casa de Campo. Here, the lake at El Retiro Park.
SUNSET. The Temple of Debod, in the Oeste Park, was brought here from Egypt where it was also placed to take advantage of the sunset.
SUNSETS Take in the view Due to its continental climate, Madrid's sky has a unique clear quality that lends itself to some spectacular sunsets which stain the scattered clouds red and orange. You can enjoy the phenomenon from many points in the city. The most iconic place to enjoy this moment is the Temple of Debod, in the Oeste Park, a giﬅ from the Egyptian government to Spain in 1968 for the country's collaboration in salvaging architectural treasures from the Aswan Dam. More than 2,000 years old, the temple was placed to match its original orientation from east to west in order to take advantage of its aspect at sunset. From Las Vistillas Park you can enjoy panoramic views
from the lawns, while on the roof terraces of many Gran Vía hotels, it goes hand in hand with a beer or cocktail. Even more elegant is the view from the open-air cafés in Plaza de Oriente, whose name, 'East Square', gives away its orientation. BIRD'S EYE VIEW From the top floor of the renowned cultural institution the Fine Arts Circle, you can watch the sun go down over the rooﬅops of Madrid in a burst of light and colour that spreads from Gran Vía to the mountains.
*KEY FACTS* »THE OLDEST TREE
A bald cypress that grows near the Puerta de Felipe IV gate at El Retiro Park. It was brought here from Mexico in 1633.
The Botanical Gardens are home to an important collection of bonsai trees looked after by landscape gardener Luis Vallejo, an international expert in the art.
»A MELTING POT OF STYLES
GARDENS Enter paradise on earth Gardens were originally designed to be a representation of heaven on earth, and there are many beautiful examples all over Madrid. In the area surrounding the Royal Palace you can visit the Sabatini Gardens, which are the setting for musical performances during the Veranos de la Villa summer festival; and Campo del Moro, influenced by various classical landscaping styles. With a surface area of 20 hectares, it gently slopes in the direction of the new Madrid Río Park. HIDDEN GEMS Not as easy to find but equally delightful, there are other gardens hidden between elegant buildings in Madrid. These include the ones belonging to the Sorolla, Lázaro Galdiano and Reina Sofía museums, as well as the garden at Príncipe de Anglona Palace in Plaza de la Paja, where entrance is free.
Capricho Park is a blend of French, Italian and English styles.
SPRING. At the Botanical Gardens you can find species imported from all five continents. On the left: topiary work in the Sabatini Gardens next to the Royal Palace.
AUTUMN IS HERE ' '' , .
ALBERTO IGLESIAS Soundtrack composer boasting three Oscar nominations
Sounds and silence. Pedestrianisation is a wonderful thing; it gives us back silence, as well as new sounds. Let's take a walk. Along Calle Fuentes and Calle Arenal. I lived there for many years. What do you think of street musicians? They add colour, but they need to play more quietly and change 'stage' more often. What do you dream about? A quieter city, which will come with progressive electrification. Then I will be able to enjoy the sounds of swallows in spring and summer. It's something I really associate with Madrid.
BY BIKE. A cycle lane running through Casa de Campo. On the next page: the underground station at Puerta del Sol, a newly pedestrianised area.
THOUSAND TREES One for every 14 inhabitants (and that's just counting those in the streets).
SPECIES Among all the types of trees, the most common is the London plane (55,000)
DEGREES The average temperature, with big differences between summer and winter.
HOURS OF SUNSHINE Per year, Madrid enjoys a continental climate with little rain.
PEDESTRIAN AREAS Away from the traﬃc It all began in Calle Preciados which was pedestrianised in order to boost trade. Since then, the number of pedestrian areas has been growing each year. On foot, and without having to worry about traﬃc, you can now stroll peacefully through Puerta del Sol, Calle Arenal and a good part of Hapsburg Madrid and the Literary Quarter, free to admire the monuments and curious details of the historic centre at your own pace. SHOPPING AND TAPAS Pedestrians have also become a priority on Calle Fuencarral and Cava Baja. The first leads to Gran Vía and boasts many
fashion stores aimed at a younger clientele, as well as numerous bars oﬀering visitors a chance to recharge their batteries. The second, located in La Latina, provides an opportunity to savour a wide variety of tapas. This extensive network of pedestrian streets makes even more sense with the Sunday opening hours enjoyed in downtown Madrid. The alterations to Calle Serrano also deserves special mention: the pavements have been widened and it now boasts a brand new cycle lane.
6A44= NEW ICON. Vertical garden designed by Patrick Blanc on the wall of CaixaForum.
HEADY SPRING , ' .
*WHAT'S ON* »MUSICAL TREAT
PASEO DEL PRADO Breathe in the art Paseo de la Castellana ends with an elegant tree-lined avenue which is not only ideal for a stroll, but is also flanked by the Prado and Thyssen museums, as well as the Botanical Gardens, where you can find 5,000 plant species imported from all over the world. Opened 250 years ago, its entrance features a spectacular iron gate that leads on to a journey of the senses. Desert and tropical ecosystems are recreated in the gardens' greenhouses. Just on the other side of the Paseo is the cultural centre CaixaForum, on which the French landscape gardener Patrick Blanc planted Spain's first vertical garden. Its lushness is to be admired.
During June and September, the Capricho Park runs a programme of open-air concerts at the Palacete esplanade. You can hear jazz, chamber music and much more. Sa turdays and Sundays at midday. Avda. de la Alameda de Osuna, s/n.
An international rose contest is held in May in this rose garden, with species of the flower from all over the world on display. Oeste Park.
»ALMOND TREES IN BLOOM
Towards the end of winter, the trees at Quinta de los Molinos Park burst into tones of white during their flowering season. C/ Alcal$, 477.
"If I'm in Madrid I go running in El Retiro Park" CHEMA MARTÍNEZ LONGDISTANCE RUNNER
He is one of the best long-distance athletes in Europe, an Olympic and triple Continental medallist and an example of longevity. @chemitamartinez What is your latest discovery in Madrid? The park created to replace the old M-30 road, Madrid Río. If out running, where can we find you? Anywhere, but if I'm in Madrid, without a doubt El Retiro Park.
Which is your favourite race held in the city? The San Silvestre Vallecana race. I think it's the nicest in the world. What can Madrid be proud of in terms of sport? The range of sports you can practise here is quite good, but I would
say it's the sporting spirit of Madrid's people, which makes them great fans of all disciplines. Which is the least known sports facility that you like best? I recently discovered Jarama, a racing circuit with a long history. I ran it first and then I went round it in a car. It was incredible. What spot do you recommend to friends who visit Madrid? A walk from the Royal Palace to Puerta de Alcalá. Pure Madrid! Can you suggest a restaurant where we can recharge our batteries? Try the 'broken' fried eggs dish at Casa Lucio (Cava Baja, 35). A total protein boost. Aﬅer a hard training session, do you have a favourite place to relax? A good spa session works wonders. Fortunately, Madrid has a wide range of spas to choose from.
FREEDOM AND TOLERANCE IN A CITY THAT EXUDES LIGHT AND MODERNITY.
146147 COME CELEBRATE DIVERSITY 148 CHUECA: FROM ITS SQUARE TO ITS MARKET 149 OPEN MADRID 150151 INTERVIEW Boris Izaguirre 152 WHAT'S ON
GOURMET TERRACE. San Antón market is one of Chueca’s essential gems. And its terrace is the best place of all for watching the world go by in this cosmopolitan neighbourhood.
Diversity, comfort and freedom
MADRID IS TOLERANCE'S KILOMETRE ZERO. CHUECA AND OTHER PARTS OF THE CITY EXUDE DIVERSITY ACCOMPANIED BY SHOPPING, GASTRONOMY AND MODERNITY WITHOUT PREJUDICE.
Much like anywhere in the city centre, you can come and visit Chueca's shops any Sunday of the year.
COME CELEBRATE DIVERSITY A great rainbow-coloured web The fact that Madrid is a welcoming city is no secret. Neither is it any secret that its main streets host a week of partying, fun and culture during the city's Gay Pride festivities. Everyone from the gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender community takes part, but heterosexual individuals and families of all kinds are also welcome to join in one of the biggest events on diversity and tolerance in the world. From the last days of June to the first weekend in July, vibrant Madrid lives and breathes respect. Residents and businesses alike have converted the Chueca neighbourhood into the epicentre of LGBT normalization.
The area's respectful, festive, welcoming nature, open to all wherever they are from, has reached as far as Plaza de Callao, Plaza de España and the Triball neighbourhood. A WIDE RANGE OF OPTIONS Restaurants, hotels to suit all pockets, pubs, nightclubs, bars and shops for all tastes and styles (from the most traditional to the trendiest) complete the range of options oﬀered by a city which is pure vitality.
In the streets of Chueca you can also find theatres, specialist bookshops and historic buildings.
Inside and outside Chueca, Madrid offers all kinds of gayfriendly businesses and hotels.
A QUESTION OF PRIDE
' . , ' .
MAIKA CONTRERAS President of the business association AEGAL
The heart of Chueca. The square that bears its name, and its market. Which other neighbourhoods imitate it best? The Literary Quarter, Malasa"a and, more recently, Lavapiés. There are some who think that Chueca is just nightlife. It is home to art galleries, boutiques, cafés, among other things. A place to escape from it all. Bar Truco (Gravina, 10).
CHUECA Much more than just a neighbourhood During the day, life in Chueca carries on as usual: small businesses, cafés and grocery shops rub shoulders with art galleries, boutiques and nightclubs. The area also represents a slice of historic Madrid, in which a brief stroll takes you to Casa de las Siete Chimeneas, a 16thcentury building in the heart of Plaza del Rey. It has a zarzuela ring to it, with its main square and streets like Calle Barbieri named aﬅer this Spanish operatic genre. But it is also home to important shopping streets open Monday to Sunday, like Fuencarral, Argensola, Piamonte and Barquillo, now entering Las Salesas. Chueca is all about relaxing in Plaza Vázquez de Mella or wandering up towards Gran Vía. Of course it's not just a neighbourhood: it's so much more.
FROM ITS SQUARE TO ITS MARKET Between two tourist hotspots Entering Plaza de Chueca from the underground station you are met with a diﬀerent scene every time. Towering above, its charming buildings show the neighbourhood's traditional side. On street level, it's seriously cosmopolitan and eclectic. The rows of outdoor bars invite us to have a drink, see and be seen. Flanked by traditional taverns and cafés, its streets are a succession of pubs, fruit and veg shops, other stores and fast food stalls. Generously, it has given up some of the limelight to the new San Antón Market: design applied to food, ample space, shared tables, parking, a supermarket, and a restaurant whose terrace oﬀers views over a neighbourhood which asserts its position in the list of must-visit places.
ÁLVARO VILLARRUBIA Photographer
To eat. Casa Perico (Ballesta 18): for classic dishes. The best background for a snapshot. Some of the façades in Hapsburg Madrid. A must-stroll. Along Gran V!a, from Red de San Luis to Callao. A unique shop. Mandalay (San Joaqu!n, 9): antiques and interiors. Where to be seen. I never miss Madrid Fashion Week.
ONLY IN MADRID ( ) .
OPEN MADRID Come and join us Liberal attitudes are certainly not only confined to Chueca. Other neighbourhoods have also become places where sexual orientation is the least important thing. Due to its close proximity and its eﬀervescent nightlife, the Malasaña area has also made a name for itself. Streets such as Calle La Palma and San Vicente Ferrer as well as famous squares like Plaza del Dos de Mayo are just some of the places oﬀering bustling trade and entertainment, where you can forget conventions and get carried away by the constant coming and going of people in search of alternative venues (and a few old favourites), intimate gigs and impeccable, well-priced restaurants. ALTERNATIVES TO LAVAPIÉS From the back of Gran Vía to the back of Sol and nestled between Atocha, Embajadores and Plaza Tirso de Molina, Madrid's old Jewish quarter is today a great mix of ethnic backgrounds and local residents both old and new. Its steep streets are long thoroughfares brightened by the outdoor seating of venues to suit all tastes, including dens playing great music, alternative spots, gayfriendly bars and typical taverns where wine, beer and tapas are the order of the day. DIVERSITY. On the next page: San Antón Market, a new meeting place in Chueca. Above: if you're looking for diversity, other areas worth checking out are Lavapiés, Malasaña and Las Salesas. Above: Topacio Fresh at her Fresh Gallery, in the Salamanca district, dedicated to showcasing emerging art.
"The spirit of Chueca has spread across the whole city" BORIS IZAGUIRRE WRITER/SHOWMAN
Born in Venezuela but adopted by Madrid, he is one of Spain's most popular tv personalities, as well as a successful author. @Borisizaguirre
What does Madrid have that nowhere else does? Light, without a doubt. The first thing you think is: how hot it is, and how bright everything is! How was your welcome in Madrid? Brilliant, in every way. I arrived in 1990. I never imagined that weekend that I would stay and live here. The city shakes you. I've been living like this for more than 18 years. What symbolises Chueca? We owe Chueca a lot. I now live closer to El Retiro Park, and I find it an incredibly fun, free neighbourhood. I think the spirit of Chueca has spread throughout the city. Where do you like to go? To Why Not (San Bartolomé, 7). I have fantastic memories of this
bar, and it hasn't lost its charm. I see myself dancing there again and I love it. And for a pleasant stroll? Arturo Soria could be a street in Caracas. Madrid has a very hidden magic that reminds me of all our Latin American cities in their best era.
now I really like Luzi Bombón (Pº. de la Castellana, 35) and Murillo (Ruiz de Alarcón, 27). The last of these was an old 1940s bar opposite the Prado, which has just been extended a bit with a restaurant serving some real delicacies. It's one of those places where if you stay, you don't know what will happen.
What about an image that has an impact on you? The sky in Oeste Park puts on such an amazing show. The first time you see the Royal Palace from this side it looks like a huge mountain.
Where do you like to hang out? I love Las Salesas and, of course, Calle Argensola, where I wrote many of my novels. It's a place that amuses me a great deal. I always think of it as being very French.
A recommendation for a place to eat and have an early drink. There are many traditional places such as the Basque grill Dantxari (Ventura Rodríguez, 8), and right
Where do you go shopping? There's an amazing range of brands on oﬀer here. When I need something, I find that Calle Jorge Juan usually ticks all the boxes.
WHAT'S ON: LGBT >>>>>> KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
MADRID BECOMES A CENTRE OF INTEREST FOR EVE RYONE, WITH EVENTS THAT COMBINE THE TRADITIONAL WITH A TASTE FOR THE LATEST TRENDS.
Gay Pride Festivities The pride of the gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender community is upheld by this huge party packed with speeches, parades, live concerts and much more, bringing together hundreds of thousands of people every year. One of the most eagerly awaited events is the Gay Pride Parade that runs from Puerta de Alcalá to Plaza de España. From 3 to 7 July 2013. Proclamation in Plaza de Chueca on 3 July. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's a great street party for all. >WHEN:
ALSO FITUR LGBT
For the second year running, the tourism fair invites the public to find out more about gay-friendly businesses and destinations. January. MADBEAR
Bears and their fans from all over the world meet up once a year in Chueca's bars and clubs. For men with no complexes. December. FOR THE GIRLS
Women from across Europe will be attending the exclusive macrofestival Nosotras somos todas. May.
Visible Festival Venues across Madrid
LesGaiCineMad Festival At various cinemas
This event oﬀers diﬀerent works by artists who make an important contribution to the LGBT collective, including activities such as dance, theatre, children's theatre, cinema, exhibitions, music and poetry. >WHEN: June-July. >FOR WHOM: All lovers of culture, the arts and cultural diversity.
This is one of the most important specialist film festivals around, both in terms of numbers of attendees and films shown. A true standard-bearer of Spanish and Latin American productions for the rest of the world. >WHEN: November. >WHAT TO EXPECT: The best selection of shorts, documentaries and feature-length films with an LGBT theme.
HOTELS FOR FEELING LIKE ROYALTY, BREATHING DESIGN AND WATCHING THE PENNIES.
153 WELCOME 156 SLEEP LIKE ROYALTY 157 DESIGNER 158 THE COMPLETE PACKAGE 159 INTERVIEW Kike Sarasola
Let us pamper you, by day and by night
FANTASY. One of the suites in the ME Hotel (this page), a bathroom at the Adler and a sitting room in the Santo Mauro. Exclusive and inviting ambiences.
MADRID HOTELS ARE THE GATEWAY TO FANTASTIC EX PERIENCES WHETHER YOU'RE STAYING THE NIGHT OR JUST DROPPING IN.
WELCOME Make yourself at home In Madrid you'll find that hotel life embraces everyone. All eﬀorts are focused on making anyone who comes through the door feel at home. Even if you don't stay in any of them, you could start your Sunday with brunch at the Intercontinental, then share a glass of Cava under the dome in the Palace before enjoying tea and cakes in the garden at the Ritz.
JAVIER MORO @javiermoro123 Writer and traveller 2011 Planeta Award
Which hotels have the best atmosphere? The Palace (Pza. de las Cortes, 7) and the Orfila (Orfila, 6), each with its own style. The most fabulous? The Ritz (Pza. Lealtad, 5). The most cosmpolitan, the one that makes you feel as though you could be anywhere? The Villa Magna (Castellana, 22). Which would you pick for its location and design? The Palace. Which one has the best bar? The Puerta de América (Av. América, 41). Madrid's best-kept secret? The Sorolla Museum (Gral. Mart!nez Campos, 37).
But that's not all. These are accessible establishments that have become designer items under the management of large international firms, as well as powerful drivers of the city's cultural activity. Sometimes you can be transported to an imaginary world just by venturing onto their rooﬅops high over the capital. These fashionable terraces are an essential meeting point (not just on summer evenings) and give you a fantastic bird's eye view of the great metropolis. WHERE ARE YOU STAYING? Now, more than ever, your hotel is part of your destination. In Madrid too, they guarantee your trip will be even more memorable. Family-friendly or businessoriented, central or on the outskirts, avant-garde or baroque, luxury or budget. The options are endless, but always with amazing locations, complementary services and personal attention.
*CHECK IN* SLEEP LIKE ROYALTY Where do you want to wake up? The classics have retained their charm over the years, but they're now being joined by a new generation of hotels that are bringing a new feel to places with a past. It's quite normal to find restored palaces and mansions with amazing public areas, courtyard gardens and rooﬅop pools. Some are like real museums, while others are wonderful gems of interior design. There are establishments to suit all budgets in the Literary Quarter and Salamanca District, where you are guaranteed a great night's sleep. For many of these hotels, great
CONTRASTS. A suite at the Ritz with another at the Silken Puerta de América and the lobby at the Oscar Room Mate.
location is part of their appeal. In Madrid, your room might overlook Paseo de la Castellana, you may have views of El Retiro Park and the Prado Museum, or you could be staying right next to Puerta de Alcalá, high up over Gran Vía, near Parliament, deep in the narrow streets of Hapsburg Madrid or in palatial homes in Chamberí. You can opt for the tallest skyscraper or for one of the city's oldest inns, now beautifully restored as boutique hotels.
»CHUECA All Madrid hotels are gay friendly, but here you'll find some that cater especially for guests from the LGBT community. »BARAJAS There are dozens
of upmarket hotels for business travellers within a stone's throw from the airport and Campo de las Naciones.
»ATOCHA The new high-
speed train link into Madrid (AVE) has resulted in the appearance of new hotels.
»OTHERS Further away from
the city centre you can find very attractive hotels in quieter surroundings, such as Madrid R!o, Arturo Soria and Mirasierra.
Madrid hotels have been quick to pick up on the latest trends in architecture and design, with imaginative spaces that evoke faraway places, bygone eras and fantasy images. Floors decorated mainly in white or red, marble-topped bars, city rooďŹ…ops, glass pools and futuristic beds.
@isabelcoixet Film director
LET'S STAY IN THE HOTEL Many of the bars and restaurants in these hotels are an integral part of modern life in Madrid. Cocktail bars, first-class wine cellars, signature cuisine and inviting spaces are all at hand for catching up with friends, intimate conversations, business meetings and family gatherings.
Where do you like staying when you come to Madrid? Always close to Gran V!a, which serves as my base. Any hotel in particular? I've got several: any in the Room Mate chain, the Las Letras hotel (Gran V!a, 11), the Abal' (Pez, 19), and, when the budget allows, the Palace. How do hotels affect your mood? I'm so used to them that I doubt they have much effect on me.
80.465 BEDS Figures from the last Madrid hotel census prove there's room for everyone.
Spread across the capital, they are mainly in the centre and the financial districts.
Accommodation for all budgets with high standards of service and cleanliness.
THE COMPLETE PACKAGE Comfort, service and good prices If you just want to stay overnight at an aﬀordable price, you'll find Madrid has a lot to choose from. Home to a large array of smaller accommodations to suit all pockets, with designer chic and well-run basic services, Madrid is proof that reasonable rates are compatible with generous and functional spaces, à la carte facilities and attentive service. For family budgets, longer stays and school groups, there's a wide range of aﬀordable accommodation even with the major hotel chains. YOUTH HOSTEL Right in the centre of Madrid, young people can enjoy staying at one of the best youth hostels in Europe. Its great location (Mejía Lequerica, 21) and its modern amenities make it the perfect place for young tourists from home and abroad. Choosing the right hotel will make your trip all the more enjoyable.
ROOM WITH A VIEW. Admire Madrid from a room at the Chic&Basic or from the Emperador hotel pool terrace.
' , .
"We're very welcoming in this city" KIKE SARASOLA ENTREPRENEUR
A former Olympic equestrian rider, he went on to set up one of the sector's most groundbreaking concepts: Room Mate hotels. @SarasolaKike What is Madrid's biggest asset in terms of its hotels? Friendliness. Our greatest quality is that we're so warm and friendly; tourists are always welcome. It's very important that they feel at home, at ease, comfortable. One of the things Room Mate is most proud of is its contribu-
tion to regenerating the centre of Madrid... We've won over customers who come to stay in the city centre with our "five Ds" philosophy: they come to sleep (Dormir), shower (Ducharse) and eat breakfast (Desayunar), because the Decor is great and it's a fun (Divertido)
hotel. That's how we've conquered the centre. To what extent does design and decor attract guests? It costs the same to make something beautiful as it would something ugly. That's the mindset we want to get across and we've tried to break away from the notion that you have to pay 500 euros to stay somewhere with designer looks. You can get that paying 100 euros too. Do you think that beauty is subjective? Of course, it depends on your taste, that's why all my hotels are diďŹ€erent, some are modern and others are more classic. I think the 90s trend for uniformity was absolutely dreadful. Do you have any other favourite hotels? The Santo Mauro, which has just been renovated by Lorenzo Castillo (Zurbano, 36). On the budget side, Chic&Basic (Atocha, 113). What was missing from Madrid? Nothing, not now anyway. It used to be outdoor cafes. We have 300 days of sunshine every year and they were sorely needed.
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FASCINATING PLACES TO VISIT LESS THAN TWO HOURS AWAY.
162163 MONUMENTAL CITIES 164165 SPECTACULAR LOCATIONS 166 PLACES TO DISCOVER OUTSIDE MADRID
GREAT TRIPS. From Madrid you can visit towns and cities with a wealth of tourist attractions, such as Cuenca (on this page), Toledo, Valencia and Córdoba.
DISCOVER MONUMENTAL CITIES LESS THAN TWO HOURS AWAY BY HIGH SPEED TRAIN Madrid is the starting point for Europe's most extensive high speed train network, so you can easily make day trips to Spanish towns and cities with spectacular artistic and cultural heritage attractions.
Segovia A historic neighbour
Toledo An imperial city
Cuenca Quaint and abstract
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town is world famous for its impressive Roman aqueduct. Just a short distance from Madrid, you can see monuments such as the Gothic cathedral, the Alcázar, Torre de San Esteban, the monastery of El Parral and the Corpus Christi synagogue, plus several small Romanesque churches.
Also holding World Heritage Site status, the city preserves traces of the three cultures that once lived side by side there: Arab, Jewish and Christian. Major monuments include the Primate Cathedral, Cristo de la Luz mosque, Tránsito synagogue and the Alcázar, while the annual Corpus Christi procession is one of the most popular in Spain.
Set in the impressive natural surroundings of the Castilian mountain range, this small World Heritage Site city is known all over the world for its Hanging Houses, clinging precariously to the sides of the deep gorge carved by the river Huécar. Its cathedral, steep cobbled streets and the Museum of Abstract Art are just a few reasons for spending some time here.
Valladolid Castilian character A city of kings, cardinals and great writers, Valladolid's stately past is illustrated by important historical buildings such as the Renaissance Palace of Santa Cruz and the Plaza Mayor, which was imitated all over Spain and Latin America. Alongside them we find more modern constructions such as the Science Museum and the regenerated Pisuerga river banks.
Valencia Madrid's beach The capital of the Levante region is Spain's third city and one of its principal Mediterranean ports. It is Madrid's closest sea port, now brought even closer by the new high speed train link. Set amongst fruit orchards and long sandy beaches, the city has a rich cultural and artistic heritage, including the Cathedral, the Silk Guild Hall, the IVAM museum of contemporary art, and the City of Arts and Sciences.
Zaragoza The first lady of the Ebro The capital of Aragón owes its wealth to the Ebro, Spain's largest river, which enabled it to flourish in the middle of a sun-drenched landscape. The river provided wealth to build the great Basilica of El Pilar, La Seo and the Aljafería Palace, plus the buildings, bridges and pavilions added later for the 2008 Expo, on the theme of water.
Córdoba The legacy of Al-Andalus Built on the banks of the Guadalquivir river, it was one of the first Spanish cities to be awarded World Heritage Site status. It is a fine illustration of Spain's Arab past, reflected in the Mosque and the town of Medina Azahara. The city's rich multicultural history can be seen in its tea houses, baths, courtyards and in its delicious variety of food and drink.
SPECTACULAR LOCATIONS ONLY A STONE'S THROW FROM MADRID In the area around the capital you can visit royal palaces, lush gardens, nature trails and medieval towns. You'll be there in the blink of an eye.
ARANJUEZ On the Strawberry Train The town is best known for its Royal Palace and gardens, the most splendid in the whole of Spain. Aranjuez can be reached from Madrid on the Strawberry Train, which follows the original route of the railway oﬃcially opened in 1851. When you get oﬀ the train, a guided tour takes you round the royal apartments and recreational areas, in parkland that is now a World Heritage Site. Monumental fountains, long avenues lined with impressive trees and lakes with swans are just a few of the highlights in this picturesque manmade landscape.
EL ESCORIAL San Lorenzo Royal Estate Felipe II, the ascetic king, ordered this Monastery to be built in the foothills of the mountains near Madrid as an architectural symbol of his reign. Both the size and surroundings of this refined set of Renaissance buildings will amaze you. Inside, you can admire the Courtyard of Kings, leading to the great basilica; the Hapsburg Palace, with the Battles Hall; the Picture Gallery, with works by Tintoretto, Titian and El Greco; and the Museum of Architecture in the basement.
ALCALÁ DE HENARES Birthplace of Cervantes Cervantes' home town is 30 kilometres away from Madrid. The Complutense University was founded here in 1499, which is why the town is part of the Castil-
ian Language Route. It has been a World Heritage Site since 1998, in recognition of monuments such as Cervantes' House and Museum, the Magistral Cathedral, the Colegio Mayor and the San Ildefonso Chapel, where Ximénez de Cisneros, the town's patron of the arts, is buried.
MADRID'S MOUNTAINS Landscapes and walking trails Madrid lies at the foot of a beautiful mountain range with peaks over 2,000 metres high. It is protected as a Nature Park and is a walker's paradise, with a wide range of scenic walking trails. Places such as the Seven Peaks, the Rascafría area, Sierra Negra, the Montejo beech forest and the mountain pass of Navacerrada, with its ski resort, are of special interest. The Cotos mountain pass can be reached by train and is home to the region's largest ski resort, Valdesquí.
CHINCHÓN Going back in time This historic town, strategically located on the fertile plain by the Tajuña river, boasts one of the oldest town squares in Spain, used as a location for several films (it is featured in Around the World in 80 Days). It has also been used for open-air theatre and as a bullring, and was formerly the site of the gallows. A fine example of folk-style architecture, the square is surrounded by arcaded three-storey buildings, many of which are occupied by restaurants specialising in meat dishes such as lamb and suckling pig.
NEARBY. Tourist destinations such as Aranjuez (above), the Madrid Sierra and Chinch贸n provide a welcome breath of fresh air and are the ideal location for a short break.
PLACES TO DISCOVER OUTSIDE MADRID Just outside the Region of Madrid you will find stunningly beautiful villages and towns, which are steeped in history and where you can enjoy architecture and gastronomy alike.
LA GRANJA The summer palace
SIGÜENZA A train ride to the middle ages
While Aranjuez was the monarchs' winter home from home, when the weather became too hot in the summer, they took refuge in the palace of La Granja, set among Segovia's forests. It was inspired by Versailles, as shown by the series of monumental fountains you'll see in the beautiful palace gardens.
The railway trip to this medieval town in Guadalajara is a great experience for children and adults alike, with entertainment by friendly troubadors who then take you on a guided tour of the castle, the majestic cathedral, the Plaza Mayor, Plazuela de la Cárcel, and Casa del Doncel. You'll have the whole day to stroll around this town, famous for its craﬅs and gastronomy, where time seems to have stood still.
SALAMANCA University spirit From its impressive Plaza Mayor you can soak up the atmosphere that pervades its pedestrianised streets, full of student life. Make sure you see the University – one of the oldest in Europe – the two cathedrals, La Clerecía, the popular Casa de las Conchas (house of shells) and the Roman bridge. The city is also a World Heritage Site.
ÁVILAGREDOS The Castilian fortress The walls round this old city, a World Heritage Site, are over two and a half kilometres in length and date back to the late 11th century. The Gothic cathedral, and the Alcázar and San Vicente gates, are just three of its architectural gems. The surrounding countryside is equally lovely.
ABOVE THE CLOUDS. Left, the cathedral in Sigüenza, where time seems to have stood still since the Middle Ages. Right, a walker on the path over the Sierra de Gredos peaks.
Practical information HERE'S EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW TO FEEL RIGHT AT HOME DURING YOUR STAY IN MADRID. TO GET THE LATEST INFORMATION BEFORE YOUR TRIP VISIT WWW.ESMADRID.COM
CLIMATE Madrid's dry climate and low rainfall mean that any time of year is perfect for getting to know the city in the radiant sunshine.
FESTIVALS Few cities enjoy their fiestas more than Madrid. The festival season begins on the Day of the Madrid Region (2 May). Shortly aﬅer that, the most traditional festival - that of San Isidro (15 May) - takes place in the famous Pradera de San Isidro Park. The month of August is one long fiesta. Aﬅer the days of San Cayetano and San Lorenzo on 7 and 10 August -which are fiestas but still working days-, comes the Day of La Paloma (15 August). And on 9 November the city commemorates the Day of the Virgen de la Almudena, the patron saint of Madrid. During Holy Week, you can enjoy
concerts and beautiful processions through the old quarter, while Christmas brings out the street markets, light displays, New Year's Eve celebrations in Sol, and the Three Kings Parade.
ACCESSIBLE MADRID Metro Madrid's underground is one of the most accessible public transport services in Europe. 60% of stations have liﬅs, while more than half of the trains are adapted to regulations on accessibility. Eurotaxi These taxis have the same tariﬀs as all others, but are adapted for people with disabilities. Information service: 915 478 600/010. Guides The City Council organizes free visits adapted to any disability. Tel: 915 881 636.
AVERAGE ANNUAL TEMPERATURE (in ºC) ANNUAL RAINFALL (l/m2) Jan
-10 -5 0
5 10 15 20 25 30 35
Culture The main museums, theatres and cultural centres are adapted to the needs of people with disabilities.
TIMETABLES Small businesses usually open from 10 am to 8.30 pm. Larger stores and chains are open all day and close later. Shopaholics are in luck when visiting the majority of Madrid's neighbourhoods: shops can open every day if they wish, including holidays (excepting
10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90
25 December and 1 January).
WIFI As part of its commitment to innovation, Madrid has installed free Wi-Fi in three iconic squares - Santo Domingo, Olavide and Plaza Mayor - as well as in EMT's local buses and in public buildings such as libraries and markets. Wi-Fi is also available at newsstands bearing the Wi-Fi logo and in numerous cafés throughout the city.
TRANSPORT Practical information
HOW TO GET THERE BY AIR Barajas All commercial flights into Madrid land here. As it is only 12 kilometres northeast of the capital, it can be reached quickly and economically. The oﬃcial opening of T4 in 2006 made it one of the world's most modern airports, with its breathtaking design by architect Richard Rogers, its highly eﬃcient operation and a shopping area selling many leading international brands. The new terminal has helped to relieve pressure on the other three terminals, where checking in is now faster. Barajas handles more traﬃc than any other airport in Spain and is the fiﬅh busiest in Europe. OneWorld operates in T4, while SkyTeam and StarAlliance operate in T1 and T2 respectively. Metro On line 8 the journey from Nuevos Ministerios station
takes around 20 minutes to T4, and 12 minutes to the other terminals. A surcharge is payable. Train The Cercanías suburban train network now includes line C-1, linking Príncipe Pio station with T4 at Barajas and stopping at Atocha, Nuevos Ministerios and Chamartín. Bus The brand new Airport Express service runs to and from Barajas 24 hours a day. There is a bus every 15 minutes during the day and every 35 minutes all through the night. You need to allow about 40 minutes for your journey. The bus makes only three stops: O'Donnell at the junction with Doctor Esquerdo, Plaza de Cibeles and Atocha train station (daytime only). Shuttle Bus This free Service runs between all terminals every five minutes from 6.30am to 11.30pm; every 20 minutes from 11.30pm to 1.50am and every 40 minutes from 1.50am to 6.30am. Taxi The airport is only 12 kilometres northeast of the city. The
fare should be about 30 euros from the centre of Madrid. Car The airport is well connected to the city's main roads, including the A1 and A2 highways and the M-40, M11 and R2 motorways. Car parks Barajas has over 10,000 parking spaces, conveniently located in seven zones near the terminals.
BY TRAIN Atocha and Chamartín Wherever you're coming from, Madrid is easy to reach by train. Atocha and Chamartín stations lie at the centre of the impressive Spanish railway network. It includes the AVE high speed train service, which connects with the French high speed line. The Cercanías local train network links the two stations to each other and to the city centre at the brand new Sol station. Following extension work, Atocha station is set to become the new Barajas: it is expected to handle 36 million passengers by 2025.
Metrobus Multi-Trip Card: €12.20 (Prices for December 2012).
TAXI There are currently more than 15,000 taxis in Madrid, with increasing numbers accepting credit cards and using GPS technology to ensure you get to your destination by the shortest route. You can take a taxi at a taxi rank, hail one in the street or request one by phone. You'll always find one at your service. The fares are aﬀordable.
BICYCLE There can be no healthier
AVE The high-speed train is the most convenient option for passengers, who can travel quickly and easily to 21 Spanish cities, including Barcelona, Valencia, Valladolid, Sevilla, Zaragoza, Toledo, Segovia, Cuenca, Córdoba and Málaga, at reasonable prices. Medium distance Mediumdistance trains link Madrid with Spain's other major cities; the trainhotel to Galicia oﬀers a comfortable overnight sleeper train service. Cercanías The local train service has nine lines in the Region of Madrid area, all of which start from Atocha mainline station or pass through it. Depending on zone restrictions, you can use the same tickets for trains, metro and buses. ROADS By car and bus Madrid is the country's transport hub, with all six national motorways converging here. The city also has an extensive system of ring roads. Numerous bus services link the capital
with major Spanish and European cities. The main bus stations are Estación Sur and Avenida de América.
HOW TO GET AROUND METRO You won't find a more convenient way of getting round the city. The fast and extensive network is one of the cheapest in Europe. There are twelve lines, plus three Light Metro lines running round the outskirts of the city. They take you to all parts of the city and to nearby towns. See the map on the next page.
BUS If you want to watch the world go by while you travel in comfort, the bus is for you. Buses run between 6am and 11.30pm, although there are also night buses, covering 27 routes starting from Plaza de Cibeles. The bus company, EMT, has an iPhone and smartphone application to inform passengers of waiting times at the city's bus stops. Single metro/bus ticket: €1.50 - 2.
and quicker way of seeing Madrid than by bike, along the city's rapidly growing network of cycle lanes. The bicycle lane on Calle Serrano and the Green Cycling Ring, which runs for 65 kilometres around the city, are especially good places to ride.
TOURIST TRAVEL CARD Ideal for visitors keen to explore the city in their own way, it allows you to use all the transport services as many times as you like. The cost of a travel card for zone A (for use inside the city limits) is from 8 euros (1 day) to 33.40 euros (seven days). The travel card for zone T, covering a wider area, costs from 16 to 66.80 euros. PARKING Although it's best not to drive around the city centre, Madrid has a good number of public and private car parks. If you park in the street, bear in mind that parking is restricted from Monday to Friday between 9am and 8pm, and on Saturdays from 9am to 3pm. You will need to purchase a ticket (available from nearby parking meters) and the charge depends on how long you intend to stay and whether the
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Published on Jan 10, 2013
Madrid in spring, summer, autumn and winter. Any season of the year is perfect for visiting this multicultural and cosmopolitan city, which...