Ideas for your next visit
a way of life
01 PORTADA.indd 1
A way of life Madrid in spring, summer, autumn and winter. Any season of the year is perfect for visiting this multicultural and cosmopolitan city, which attracts more than seven million people each year and inspires a special pride in its citizens. The Madrid City Council has responded to the interest that the Spanish capital arouses nationally and internationally by publishing in-depth guides to the city’s limitless cultural and leisure opportunities. Throughout this 150-page promotional guide to Madrid, the reader will nd the city’s entertainment calendar for the four seasons of the year, set along routes that cover everything from the classical Hapsburg neighbourhood to the new Madrid Río area. The latter has experienced a greatest transformation in recent years and is home to Matadero Madrid, a modern cultural icon of the city. This directory is also an excellent way to discover the best accommodation, gastronomy, shopping, art and culture, ecotourism, nightlife, activities for children and information on public transport. And all of this in a dynamic, visual format. The reader will quickly see that this is not a user guide; it is a modern promotional directory, designed to be used by di!erent audiences at di!erent moments. Madrid is a city for all seasons. In spring, our city is one of the greenest in the world, showing o! the best of its parks and allowing visitors to enjoy sporting events such as the Madrid Tennis Open. In summer, as the days lengthen, the streets of Madrid become even more welcoming and invite visitors to enjoy festivals such as PhotoEspaña or Veranos de la Villa, and other events like the festivities of La Paloma. Autumn in our city is packed with concerts, exhibitions and openings. And in winter, when Christmas plays a leading role, the city is home to some of the year’s most important trade fairs, shows and gatherings including Fitur, Cibeles, Arco and the Gastrofestival. All of these proposals and many more are brought together in this guide, which we are very proud to present. We hope that it will be a useful tool for everyone who would like to get to know Madrid, or for those who already know the city to discover many more of its surprises.
A"#$%&' R()*-G+""+%,-. M+/'% '0 M+,%),
03 EDITORIAL NEW.indd 003
a way of life Publisher: E.M. Promoción Madrid S.A. Department of Economy, Employment and Citizen Participation. Madrid City Council.
Chairperson: Miguel Ángel Villanueva. CEO: Pablo Bautista. General manager: Beatriz Ballesteros. Head of Tourist Promotion: Miguel Sanz. Content manager: Carlos Menéndez. Editors: Silvia Roba, Ignacio Vleming. Marketing: Caroline Tensi and Verónica Casares Production: Promotora General de Revistas, S.A. Julián Camarillo, 29 B, 1º. 28037 Madrid. Tel.: +34 915 386 118 (firstname.lastname@example.org). Corporate publications manager: Virginia Lavín. Deputy manager: Javier Olivares. Project management: Ángel L. Esteban. Original design and art direction: José Antonio Gutiérrez. Layout team leader: Pedro Díaz Ayala. Layout: Beatriz Hernández. Writers: Txema Ybarra, Anabel Vázquez, Beatriz H. Cembellín, Rosalía Martínez de la Vega, Francis Pachá. Desktop publishing: Paola Pérez (team leader), Rosa García Villarrubia. Photographs: Luís Rubio, Alfredo Cáliz, Juanma Costa, Ernesto Kofla, Montse Velando, Genín Andrada, Chus Eto, Valerie de la Dehesa, Adolfo Callejo, Cordon Press, Fototeca, Age Fotostock, Iberimage, El País, Getty Images, Promoción Madrid. Illustrations: Alberto García. Production manager: Francisco Alba. Printer: Monterreina. Legal deposit: M-1422-2011. Cover: Casa de la Panadería, Plaza Mayor. Photo: César Lucas Abreu/Age Fotostock. Some information may have changed since the publication date. Readers should check for updated information at www.esMADRID.com.
04-05 SUMARIO.indd 004
008 MADRID DISCOVER We show you how to get the most out of your visit to the city.
011 MADRID IN
With a calendar packed full of events, the city transforms every season and is full of surprises. 012. Spring 014. Summer 016. Autumn 018. Winter
021 MADRID IS
By day and by night, the city is yours. Get out and discover it. 022. Fun 024. Romantic 026. Family friendly 028. Golden 030. Diverse
033 BY DISTRICTS
You will only discover the real Madrid by exploring its streets and hidden
corners and sharing the day-to-day life of its people. 034. Hapsburg (Austrias) 040. Literary Quarter 046. Casa de Campo 050. Castellana 054. Chamberí 058. Chueca 062. Conde Duque 066. Gran Vía / Sol 072. La Latina 078. Lavapiés 082. Madrid Río 086. Malasaña 092. The Art Walk 098. Princesa 102. El Retiro 106. Salamanca 112. Salesas 116. And more
121 MADRID LIVES
Whatever your tastes and preferences, there's a place for you in Madrid. Explore all the possibilities that it o!ers. 122. Sleeping 126. Art & culture 130. Food & drink 134. Shopping 138. What's on 142. Green 146. Sport 148. Nightlife
152 PRACTICAL INFO 072
Services, connections, climate and accessibility; all the information you need to make Madrid your own. 152. Transport 154. Useful facts
04-05 SUMARIO.indd 005
Something for everyone.
A district with its own style for you to discover.
CASA DE CAMPO
A place to breathe easy among pines and oaks.
GRAN VÍA / SOL
In the centre of Madrid, you're the star.
Come and see for yourself what old Madrid was like.
The future is green and Madrid is too.
Tradition and modernity bring it to life.
06-07 SUMARIO MAPA NEW.indd 006
Its discreet bourgeois charm still arouses passions.
Greener, more open... come and see the district's new look.
The heights of Madrid, even closer to heaven.
A true example of diversity, always opening borders.
If you're a trendsetter, there's no place like it.
Fascinating for its authentic, colourful charm.
THE ART WALK
092 A route for enjoying masterpieces. LITERARY QUARTER
Feel the beat of the green heart of Madrid.
Be swept o! your feet by this chic bohemia.
Enjoy this square that is open to the world.
06-07 SUMARIO MAPA NEW.indd 007
Colón tourist information point and inside Casa de la Panadería.
At our tourist information ofces we supply everything you need to make the very most of your visit to Madrid. Our website and magazine are indispensable resources for keeping up to date with the most practical calendar. We also offer guided tours, promotional cards and special programmes packed full of advantages.
Tourist Information Offices MADRID TOURIST CENTER
COLÓN TOURIST CENTER
P!"#" M"$%&, '( (C")" *+ !" P","*+&-", .&%/,* 0!%%&) T+!.: 12 344 25 65. M%,-S/,: 71.67–'7.67 email@example.com Madrid's central tourist information office provides leaflets and brochures, maps and all the documentation that visitors need. In the Mesonero Romanos room, visitors can access Madrid Vivo, a personalised tourism service that recommends leisure activities. This information is updated daily and displayed on interactive screens, on which the visitor enters some general tourist profile data and receives different suggestions about concerts, theatre, dance, exhibitions and sporting events to be held on the same day and the following days.
F%&8+& U,*+&.&%/,* P"))".+ ("99+)) :;&%/.; P")+% *+ !" C"):+!!"," %, :;+ 9%&,+& <=:; C"!!+ G%$") M%,-S/,: 71.67–'7.67 An outdoor screen in the middle of the street displays a daily city and cultural calendar. Inside the o!ce, visitors can obtain all types of tourist information. There is an information point for visitors who are interested in learning Spanish. The list of Madrid language schools is available at www.esmadrid.com/learnspanish
OTHER INFORMATION POINTS: • Plaza de Cibeles • Plaza del Callao • The Art Walk (on Calle Santa Isabel, near the Reina Sofía Museum). • Madrid-Barajas Airport: Terminal 2
(arrivals hall) and Terminal 4 (arrivals, halls 10 and 11). SATE (Foreign Tourist Assistance Service) L+.",=:%), 21. I,9=*+,:) T+!.: 17' 27 '2 2' M%,-S/,: 71.77–77.77 firstname.lastname@example.org The SATE o"ers foreign tourists visiting our city personalised assistance with whatever circumstances may have prompted their visit to the police station. This assistance is provided by specialised sta" of the Madrid Tourist Board and the Spanish National Police Corps. Tourists receive assistance with incident reports and other administrative documentation that must be processed in accordance with the situation. Psychological assistance is also provided to visitors or their family members as necessary.
08-09 INFO TURISTICA.indd 008
The Madrid City Council’s website is packed with everything you need to know about tourism, leisure and business in the city. It o!ers detailed information about services, monuments, museums and must-visit places, together with a complete database of tourism resources (hotels, restaurants, shops, etc.) and a calendar with all of the cultural activities taking place in Madrid (exhibitions, theatre, sport, and much more).
This free monthly publication in Spanish and English o!ers a calendar of the best cultural events for the month, interviews and reports on the temporary and permanent entertainment options in Madrid. The magazine is available at all the tourist information centres and points of the city, and in leading hotels, restaurants, shops and cultural centres. It is also available for download from www.esmadrid.com/esmadridmagazine
The Madrid Card is a personal pass with a chip system that gives visitors to the city access to all the tourism and culture options of the city. It o!ers the user a series of tourist services and a number of discounts. The card includes entry to more than 50 museums and some large leisure and entertainment centres, tours and signicant discounts at shops, restaurants, cafés, amenco shows and other venues. Madrid Card is valid for 24, 48, 72 or 120 hours and it comes with a handy guide and a map to help you nd the venues. It is on sale at the Madrid Shop and at di!erent points around the city, such as hotels, museums and the airport.
The Tourist Board of the Madrid City Council o!ers a programme of Discover Madrid Guided Tours with more than 40 weekly visits, 365 days a year. If you would like to get to know Madrid in a fun and di!erent way, accompanied by professional guides, tours are available in seven languages: Spanish, English, French, Italian, German, Portuguese and Japanese. Visitors can choose from di!erent types of tours: • Historical tours • Routes by bike and on skates • Family tours and activities • Dramatized and musical tours • Accessible tours for people with physical, sensory or intellectual disabilities Information about tour costs and timetables is available on www.esmadrid.com/descubremadrid
Tourist Board Loyalty Programmes Madrid Shop
P!"#" M"$%&, '( (C")" *+ !" P","*+&-") M%,-S.,: /0.1/–'/.1/ Inside the Madrid Tourist Center, the Madrid Shop is the place to nd designer t-shirts, books, guides, old photos, posters, stationery and music. These products can also be ordered online (www.esmadrid.com/madridshop). It is also an o"cial Madrid Card point of sale.
By participating in one of the three loyalty programmes of the Madrid Tourist Board, visitors can discover the city in an enjoyable but di!erent way. The Discover Madrid Club o!ers members a series of advantages when they take tours in the Discover Madrid programme. Snap Madrid has two set routes on which visitors must photograph a series of monuments or places, and when nished they will receive a souvenir of the city. Madrid, A Family Experience allows parents and children to discover Madrid by playing an educational game on three self-guided routes. In addition, visitors who register in the database of the Tourist Board will be kept up to date on all the news and tourism products matching their prole.
08-09 INFO TURISTICA.indd 009
Los Premios Fundación BBVA Fronteras del Conocimiento reconocen contribuciones particularmente significativas en los ámbitos de la investigación científica y de las artes, capaces de desplazar la frontera de lo conocido y propiciar la emergencia de nuevos campos del saber y la creación cultural. Jurados internacionales del máximo nivel –designados con la colaboración del Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas- se dan cita anualmente en Madrid a lo largo de los meses de enero y febrero para deliberar y fallar los galardonados en las ocho categorías de los premios. Por el número, perfil de las áreas abarcadas - expresión del conocimiento,
la creación cultural y los retos del siglo xxi- y dotación económica (400.000 euros por categoría), los Premios Fronteras del Conocimiento son una de las principales familias de premios a escala internacional. El Palacio del Marqués de Salamanca, sede de la Fundación BBVA en Madrid y situado en el eje de localización de los grandes museos e instituciones culturales, acoge en la segunda quincena de junio la ceremonia de entrega de los premios. En el Teatro Real de Madrid se ofrece el día anterior un concierto de homenaje a los premiados, convirtiendo así a Madrid en la sede de una fiesta global del conocimiento y la creación. Categorías y Galardonados Ciencias Básicas (Física, Química, Matemáticas) 2008: Ignacio Cirac y Peter Zoller 2009: Richard N. Zare y Michael E. Fisher Biomedicina 2008: Joan Massagué 2009: Robert J. Lefkowitz Ecología y Biología de la Conservación 2008: Thomas E. Lovejoy y William F. Laurance 2009: Peter B. Reich Tecnologías de la Información y la Comunicación 2008: Jacob Ziv 2009: Thomas Kailath Economía, Finanzas y Gestión de Empresas 2008: Jean Tirole 2009: Andreu Mas-Colell y Hugo Sonnenschein Artes (Música, Pintura, Escultura, Arquitectura) 2008: Steven Holl Música Contemporánea 2009: Cristóbal Halffter Cambio Climático 2008: Wallace S. Broecker 2009: Klaus Hasselmann Cooperación al Desarrollo 2008: Laboratorio de Acción Contra la Pobreza (J-PAL) 2009: Instituto de Investigación del Desarrollo (DRI)
Paseo de Recoletos, 10 28001 Madrid
Convocatoria 2011 abierta en www.fbbva.es/awards
intil hostrim ovestifec tris arisseri fac fatis publint? inam hus; Catimis propubl iquius egerfenius iam fac ďƒžn videsse nontre horis auderce psentemus, preis. Quondit for hactusa diis hoctuste conc ret; C. es rei tiliissicus ac omniriam etis hil utem abente aceris? Mus vereiEhebes inatiac turevid Cat, nons bonsil us? Opubliis cente intemulvium averei sim actus ili, peropti ssatrit ioribus, caet; Catiusce con paresses con tertem pules, consuntrares et? Miliquerorum terfecto meis ci popubliu in te nonscis, quiPisissit alit, velit nostrud min utatum er atie faciliquis eugiam zzrit irit auguero et nonullum vullum velesto ex er aci el del in ut luptat lam, veriliquam irit volobore te doluptat. Duipsum eu faci tisit, vent ercilla corperilit, conse tatet velis adigna faccum vullandigna consendre con ullaore dip ercincip ea facilis nis el ulla conulput praesed dolor in henibh eum eliquamet ad magnim quat. Duis dit vel eriurem iriliqu iscilit wisit lore magnit adit aut lor adionum iustrud dolor sectetuer sed enis dolortissit, volutetue magna corem zzrilisl ut duismod olorem delendignim in ut ver ilisl irit iuscin henim do conumsa ndionsed mod tionsequisci tat. Vullumsan euiscil isismod iatissisi. It wisi tat aciduis molobore ea con el dionseq uametum ver sim quis nostrud mod dolortisi tie modolobore ent augueri uscilit, sumsand ionsed tio odipisi scidunt nissisit amcommy niam veliqui blam, secte dolum dit lore facip eugait am iriurer aesecte venim quatum quat autat alit acilit praesequate consent ut ut p q dolorem volesto od tat wis do diam in ullamet wis alit del dionsectet wissecte delenibh el dolortisisl utem dipit la feuissis alis dolor in ut ea at. Ut praesequissi tio odit lortionse deliquis ero enisl dui tie te minim ex esectem quatinit alit iuscipit praese-
quat. Rud delent loreet nim ipit doluptat. Re enisi. Iduisis nim diatue vullutpatie magnis nit vent lamet, vero con utat il do euis duis nis del ut nulluptat. Ut velit vulput duipis nonse eugue tem ing etuer secte magna alit wisi. Is ad ea corercidunt in ut laore velessim augue consequamcon velesenibh et laorperiure tio dunt nis aliquat er il utpat. Ut nonsequam eugait vendigna facilla mcommy nit augait elenit nullan utpat. Delenisismod mod erit lore vent iriliquatio essi euis estie dolutem zzrit wisciliquip exero do eu feummy niatem velit nis nulputat. Ut augiamet wis ad tie exer si tionsed tetue minisse quismodigna conulput in vulla facipit euisim zzrilissi ex ea adit nit wisim velit ex erit aliquisi. Delit adio odolortio del iriure eum ip essectem quam, quipis atue commolobor iril dolendipis digna corpero odolor si. Alit wis nostio eugiam zzril ulputat. Issis augueros amet, quis nibh essi bla am zzrit veniat adigna adigna augiam zzrit amconsequam iriure mod modolor erostin velis dolobor acidunt lore dolenibh et, quam init at. Urer si blan ese eliquisit, vero eum quismolor sed ero conum ilit, sequi tatie facilit verostie veliquatet, qui bla feu faccumsandip ex eraesto dolore delesendiam eummy nosto core mod tisit nim eraestinit endio od tem autpatum quisisse facin ullutate velisi. Nonsequate volorpercin ut numsan ulla faci tio el dionsed min hent accumsandiam dit verostio consequate faci tatincil dolorem esenismodion vent dit veniam vel dolobortie tat. Na alit iurem vulluptatie dit praesto odolor amet praessequam dolor at. Putpatu erosto odo conse modit nonsequipit alisit eugait pratie eui et nullan utpat acilismod te min utpat inciliquat, vulput nos et iuscip essequat alit, con erat ullumsan euis ea
facin venim diam, veros ero dolum quiscin volore del inibh et alisi. Inibh et lummy num quat. Ut adit ent irit irit nonsequat nulputpatum quam alit wis nim vendrem er autpat. Duis nos etum at. Ut verat alis nissent lobor senis augait alit dolum vercinit praestrud tat. Ut dolor amcon henismod tem eum quisim alit iniam in ute min eu faci blaore exercilisi tio eugiamcorem zzriustrud do ea feugait erat eum nullaorperit ercilla ad tet diate er susci tie te et inis adio euipsustin ea consequisi. Ecte dolor sit am, sequis augiam zzrilit, susto odignis nummy nis nosto dipsum dolor autat. Acilissed magna faciliquat. Igniat. In ut ulla commy nos aciliquatie molummy niamet eugiam zzriure volortie ming endre molorem exerci eliquat. Lit eraesendrem etuer sim qui tatet augiamc onsequat lorperiure volor alit nostrud magnim zzriliquis nulla faciliquamet nullam, secte duisl eum dolore eu feugiam erci bla feuis nulputpat lorper at niam irit, con ut dolor sisisit voloreet lore minit, se tat lum nim in er iriure diam, vullupt atisi. Gait prat velit ad tem euguera essiscil esenis ad tet in vero odolum voluptat. Osto conum irit, si tie modoloreet at wisi. Na faccum volor sed magniam quip erillan dipsum irit alis nosto eu feugiam zzriusto odolobor sis nostion seniat, volorer suscin utat prat, se ex eugueros nis atet, volorti ncipsus ciliquip essecte volobore tionse feugiat auguer sequisi blandipsusto consend ionsequamet vullamet amcommy nis adignim verat. Tue magnit iusciduisi blandre etuero odolor augait am nostismod er iriusci llutpate do dolorperiure eu faci esed dolessectet luptat laortio conse min henit pratum eugiam, quat velese modit dolorperos num dolutpat, ve-
spring summer autumn winter
11 PORTADILLA MADRID EN.indd 011
12-13 MADRID EN PRIMAVERA.indd 012
SPRING As the weather warms up, you won't be able to resist getting out into the streets of Madrid. There are so many opportunities to enjoy open-air activities, from having a picnic on the grass to watching top sporting events. Holy Week (Semana Santa) is a strong starter, passing the baton to the theatre, books and flamenco, all surrounded by the delightful scent of the flowers in the parks and gardens.
01 HOLY WEEK The most important processions move through the centre of Madrid with works of great artistic value. *March-April. 02 SALON DE GOURMETS FAIR Don't miss this leading gathering of producers and consumers of delicatessen products, with tastings, master classes and competitions. *Feria de Madrid. April.
MADRID MARATHON The beautiful course set by MAPOMA has the international rating of Silver Road Race. *Start line in Recoletos. April.
03 MADRID TENNIS OPEN Feel the excitement as the world's best compete at the only European Masters 1000 tournament featuring male and female players. *Caja Mรกgica. April-May.
GOLF MASTERS Another great sporting event. This championship counts in the European Tour. *Club de Campo. May.
04 SAN ISIDRO FESTIVITIES See deep-rooted traditions reborn in this open-air celebration with a notable gypsy character. *Las Vistillas and La Pradera de San Isidro. May.
05 BOOK FAIR The new releases flood the stands, where authors sign copies of their books. *The Retiro Park. May-June. 06 AUTUMN FESTIVAL IN SPRING You will enjoy the change of season at these shows. There are a great variety of acts on the bill. *Theatres in Madrid. May-June. 07 MADRIDFOTO AND PHOTOESPAรA The first is a fair for collectors of contemporary photography. The second includes dozens of exhibitions held over two months in venues all over Madrid. *Various locations. May-July.
SUMA FLAMENCA Enjoy the leading dancers of flamenco at one of the most prestigious festivals. *Teatros del Canal. June.
08 MADRID IN BLOOM To surround yourself with thousands of scents, visit any of the city's many parks and gardens. It's the best time of year to discover the Royal Botanical Gardens.
* Further information at www.esMADRID.com
12-13 MADRID EN PRIMAVERA.indd 013
SUMMER The sun gets things moving and the tables invade the footpaths of Madrid, inviting you to sit and chat with friends. The days lengthen and the nights liven up. With the Gay Pride festivities and La Paloma celebrations, you will feel the party mood of a city in shorts and a t-shirt. At the Veranos de la Villa festival, you will nd the best cultural events, while sports fans will get talking about the signings for the coming season. As the football gets underway, we start to say adiós to the hot weather.
01 SWIMMING POOLS OPEN With the first refreshing dip of the year you can consider the summer officially here. *Public and private. June. 02 AFTERNOON CAPRICES Listen to classical music and other styles at concerts in the Parque del Capricho. *June and September. 03 GAY PRIDE FESTIVITIES Madrid celebrates the great party of diversity in style and you're invited. The Chueca neighbourhood throws itself into its festivities. *June.
14-15 MADRID EN VERANO.indd 014
04 VERANOS DE LA VILLA The summer nights are the perfect stage. Come along to hear and see theatre, dance and music performed by renowned international artists. *Different stages. July-August. 05 LAVAPIÉS FESTIVITIES During the holidays, the most popular fiestas take over the streets, 24 hours a day. First are the celebrations of San Cayetano, in Lavapiés (7 August); then come those of San Lorenzo, halfway
between this district and La Latina (10 August). The nights will be most refreshing. *Lavapiés and La Latina. August.
06 LA PALOMA FESTIVITIES The celebrations of 15 August end this trio of traditional festivities featuring everything from the tombola to rock music. *La Latina. August. 07 KITES IN THE SKY Just inside Juan Carlos I Park, you will see a large field of grass covered with a colourful cloud of kites in summer. Ideal for a family outing.
LA VUELTA BIKE RACE At the end of August, the pack pedals away on tour, crossing the finish line in Madrid in the middle of September to the cheers of a welcoming crowd. *Plaza de Cibeles. September.
08 LA LIGA KICKOFF The pools open the season but it's the first gameweek of the football league which brings it to a close. As always, Real Madrid and Atlético de Madrid set their sights on the top of the table. *Santiago Bernabéu and Vicente Calderón stadiums. September.
* Further information at www.esMADRID.com
14-15 MADRID EN VERANO.indd 015
AUTUMN The golden colour of the leaves will impress you as the shops get all decked out. The cultural activity of Madrid returns to normal with concerts, exhibitions and openings that ďƒžll a calendar for all tastes, the best plan for rainy days. But if there is not a cloud in the sky, you will ďƒžnd that the evenings reach a breathtaking intensity. 02
01 OPERA SEASON Local productions and others brought from the world's leading theatres arrive at the Madrid temple of bel canto. *Teatro Real. September. 02 AUTUMN COLOURS Don't miss the delightful display of ochre and orange that the Retiro Park has in store for you these months. *September-November. 03 LA NOCHE EN BLANCO Madrid puts on exhibitions, performances and events of an extraordinary nature until the early hours. Come along and enjoy. *Various locations in Madrid. September.
ARTEMADRID OPENING This is your chance to participate in this special programme to bring the work of the best galleries to the general public. *Artemadrid Association of Galleries. September. * Further information at www.esMADRID.com
16-17 MADRID EN OTONO.indd OTON O.indd 016 016
04 MILLESIME MADRID You will feel like the special guest at an enormous luxury restaurant run by some of the best chefs and head waiters in Spain. *Travelling venue. October. 05 ARCHITECTURE WEEK Share exhibitions, talks and guided tours of the most iconic buildings in Madrid. *Different venues. October. 06 SIMO NETWORK Discover a new world of innovation and services at Spain's main event for technological solutions. *Feria de Madrid. October.
07 ESTAMPA This fair specialising in graphic arts presents prints, photographs and books at a wide range of prices. *Feria de Madrid. October.
MADRID INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL For almost a month, the festival features jazz of all types with performances by artists from around the world. *Different venues. November.
08 MADRID EN DANZA FESTIVAL Spanish and foreign dance companies bring you the new trends of contemporary dance. *Different cultural venues. November.
FERIARTE See dozens of galleries and thousands of pieces that are more than one hundred years old. On sale direct to the public. *Feria de Madrid. November.
16-17 MADRID EN OTONO.indd OTON O.indd 017 017
WINTER Cold weather is no reason to stay indoors. The Christmas markets and lights, Puerta del Sol on New Year's Eve and shopping in Preciados are just the beginning. The sales, carnivals and a calendar full of trade shows round out the season. For some of us, it will no doubt be our appetite that makes us go out: no one can resist roasted chestnuts, chocolate with churros and Madrid's tasty traditional stew.
01 GOSPEL AND NEGRO SPIRITUALS FESTIVAL It is now a tradition in the lead up to Christmas. *Teatro Fernán Gómez. December. 02 CHRISTMAS Markets, designer lighting, nativity scenes and the Three Wise Men parade fill the Christmas calendar. *December-January.
VÍA MAGNA FESTIVAL Every year this festival features dozens of soloists, vocal groups and choirs. *Various venues. December. * Further information at www.esMADRID.com
18-19 MADRID EN INVIERNO.indd 018
03 SAN SILVESTRE VALLECANA Come and bid the year farewell at this fun run, one of the most popular in the world. *31 December. 04 SALES Once the holidays are over, get the best bargains in the shops of Madrid. *January.
CIBELES MADRID FASHION WEEK One of the two annual dates with fashion in the main showcase for Spanish designers. *Feria de Madrid. February.
05 FITUR A world of possibilities is within easy reach at the tourism trade fair. *Feria de Madrid. January. 06 GASTROFESTIVAL Madrid turns into the gastronomic capital of the world, as recipes of leading international chefs attending MadridFusión are brought onto the street with set meals at reasonable prices. *Various locations. JanuaryFebruary.
ESCENA CONTEMPORÁNEA The festival showcases works of the most experimental
contemporary culture. *Various theatres. January-February.
07 ARCOMADRID You can discover the latest in contemporary art. The most important galleries and collectors of the international art scene meet in Madrid. *Feria de Madrid. February. 08 CARNIVAL Dare to show your costume in the parades, passacaglias, the burial of the sardine and many other activities that turn Madrid into a party. *February and March.
18-19 MADRID EN INVIERNO.indd 019
Adam Fuss El esplendor del románico Eugène Atget, París 1898-1924 Dibujos modernos
27/01/2011 10/02/2011 27/05/2011
Colecciones FUNDACIÓN MAPFRE
27/05/2011 15/09/2011 05/10/2011
Gotthard Schuh Yves Saint Laurent
EXPOSICIONES 2011 SALAS RECOLETOS Paseo de Recoletos, 23, Madrid. Telf. 91 58 16 100
www.fundacionmapfre.com Anuncio Reina Sofia - Carta_v3.indd 1 FUNDACION_MAPFRE 1
11/1/11 17:41:46 12/1/11 13:35:37
fun romantic family friendly golden diverse
21 PORTADILLA MADRID ES.indd 011
By day and by night, Madrid is the perfect destination for a trip with a group of friends. There is always so much going on that entertainment is guaranteed. 24-hour action
Emblematic cultural venues for all tastes, top sporting events, wide shopping streets o!ering the latest fashion, bars and restaurants in pedestrian areas with a!ordable prices... In Madrid you have everything. Whatever your interests and preferences, you will discover a city that is always open, accessible and full of energy, which you can easily explore using the extensive underground and bus network.
Get into the nightlife From the taverns of the Hapsburg district to the openair tables on Paseo de la Castellana, from the beer halls of Alonso MartĂnez to the university scene of Moncloa, from the alternative nightclubs near Dos de Mayo Square to the most international ones in the Santa Ana area. You can choose between the multi-ethnic spirit of LavapiĂŠs, the tapas bar route in La Latina and the cocktail route in Chueca.
Live music This is one of the stand-out features of Madrid nightlife, and it is also an essential reference to the cultural scene of the city. Anything goes, with all trends and styles, including jazz clubs, acoustic gigs, world music and electronic sessions. The big names of the moment on the international pop and rock scene stop in Madrid to play live concerts as part of their tours during the year.
22-23 MADRID ES DIVERTIDA.indd 022
Madrid has something for all tastes. IN THE STREETS There is nothing like being in the hustle and bustle of Gran Vía, Fuencarral or Huertas, with a swarm of people at all hours. SPORT You can row in the lake at the Retiro Park, ride a bike in Casa de Campo Park, and skate in the new park on the banks of the Manzanares River. COMEDY Alfil, Lara, Mirador, Triángulo… There is a good handful of small venues offering alternative theatre. LIVE El Sol, Caracol, Galileo Galilei and Siroco are some of the legendary venues for live music.
22-23 MADRID ES DIVERTIDA.indd 023
To compensate for its frenetic pace, Madrid also offers many calm, peaceful spaces to care for the mind, body and spirit, which are ideal for sharing as a couple. For two Madrid is for falling in love. It is a city where you can get lost in tiny museums full of enchantment, such as the Museum of Romanticism, steal a kiss in the alleys of the Hapsburg neighbourhood, share secrets in the hidden gardens such as those of El Capricho and be inspired by a dream sunset, like those which can be enjoyed from the Temple of Debod.
Love nests The perfect getaway would not be complete without a hotel that invites rest and intimacy. In Madrid you will be spoilt for choice, with everything from restored palaces to temples of contemporary design. Many have made wellbeing their philosophy of life and they o!er guests relaxation therapies with water and specialised beauty treatments.
Culinary seduction To complete an evening there is nothing like a dinner for two at one of the many and varied restaurants of Madrid. You can sample the most exquisite international specialties and the latest trends in signature cuisine, in privileged settings (such as inside the Teatro Real), in the open air (outside the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum) or with a view (at the top of the new Torre Espacio).
24-25 MADRID ES ROMANTICA.indd 024
When you visit Madrid together, it gives even more. CUPID IN THE PRADO The great Spanish museum is full of passions and romances, with a few blessed ones among the many tragic ones. IN FASHION For her and for him, you will find many shops with the latest styles in the Salamanca, Conde Duque and Salesas districts. CREATING A HOME You can search for home decorating ideas in the Literary Quarter, with its tempting antique and retro furniture shops. DON JUAN “Isn't it true, my angel of love...?” The classic verses of Tenorio are one of the literary quotes that cover the pavement of Calle Huertas.
24-25 MADRID ES ROMANTICA.indd 025
Whether you come with your children, nephews, nieces, grandchildren or godchildren, they will all want to come back. Madrid has a never-ending list of things you can do.
Excitement and fun For an adrenaline rush, Casa de Campo is home to Madrid's Amusement Park, and you can see wild animals and sharks at the Zoo-Aquarium. Alternatively, visit Warner Park or Faunia animal park, where you can see whole ecosystems recreated. At the Planetarium, your journey through the stars will be just as exciting as it is educational, and you'll never forget your visit to the Casa Museo del Ratón Pérez, a museum all about the Spanish equivalent of the tooth fairy, a little mouse called Ratón Pérez.
Mysteries Special shows and activities The kids will love the musicals on o!er on Gran Vía, the puppet shows at the Retiro Park and the special events at the Reina Soa Museum, the Teatro Circo Price and Matadero. Also, look out for the family tours organised by the Cólon and Plaza Mayor Tourist Centers, such as The Secrets of El Retiro and Madrid's Treasures.
There are many legends hidden away in Madrid, like the legend of the Casa de América, where you can enjoy a mysterious guided tour. But it would be di"cult to nd anything more frightening than the House of Horror at the Amusement Park. And why not mingle with the celebs at the Wax Museum, where you will nd waxwork models of characters from throughout the ages. For lots more ideas, go to www.esMADRID.com/en/kids-madrid
26-27 MADRID ES FAMILIAR.indd 026
Some interesting numbers
The Imax cinema will take you to the edge of the galaxy or plunge you into the deepest jungle.
That's how many come to the Diverfam children's fair in December.
The disused underground station at Chamberí is now the city's Metro Museum, Platform Zero.
Get behind the wheel of a go-kart at the Carlos Sáinz Center and you'll feel like a driving champion.
26-27 MADRID ES FAMILIAR.indd 027
Come and share the best golden age possible with Madrid. ROYAL GUARD The Solemn Changing of the Guard is performed in front of Puerta del PrĂncipe at the Royal Palace on the first Wednesday of every month at midday. VILLANUEVA 2011 marks the 200th anniversary of the death of this neoclassical architect, who left an indelible mark on Madrid's landscape. HIDDEN GEMS Find them in small museums like the Cerralbo and Sorolla, the San Fernando Royal Academy of Fine Arts and Basilica of San Francisco el Grande. DISCOVER MADRID The Tourist Board runs a number of guided tours, with themes such as Madrid and the King's Court and Philip II's Madrid. For further information go to www.esMADRID.com/ descubremadrid_en
28-29 MADRID ES DORADA.indd 028
With its fantastic cultural and artistic heritage, all the great things to see and do, and fabulous food and drink, Madrid is a city where you can live the good life. It's the perfect place to enjoy time with friends and family at any age. Architectural gems In Spain, there is nowhere with more monuments and outstanding buildings than Madrid, because of its splendid history, its links with the monarchy, and because it's the country's political, economic, spiritual and cultural capital. It was King Philip II who turned Madrid into a royal city, although previous kings had their holiday palaces here. Most of their legacy can be found in the area around the Royal Palace.
History in every corner Take a few moments to contemplate the breathtaking combination of the Plaza de Oriente, the Sabatini gardens, the Teatro Real opera house and the more recent addition of the La Almudena Cathedral. From here, walk down the pedestrianised Calle Arenal to begin a tour of Madrid's historical district. The Puerta del Sol and the Plaza Mayor are just a stone's throw away. There's so much to see that one visit will never be enough. You will always want to come back.
Starting point Madrid can also boast that it is an accessible city, where it's cheap and easy to get around on public transport. It's a transport hub too, with connections to the rest of Spain via plane, train and road. And with towns like Aranjuez, El Escorial, La Granja and Alcalรก de Henares so close by, there are all sorts of options for day trips outside the city.
28-29 MADRID ES DORADA.indd 029
Madrid is a lively, cosmopolitan city that will always welcome you with open arms, taking you in as one of its own, without questions or distinctions.
Friendly environment Come and discover how the frenetic pace and vitality of Madrid is, above all, in the streets. Its people come from all over the world, and share spaces and activities in complete freedom, enjoying the visibility in a great city that invites celebration. Madrid is alive, with an extensive calendar of cultural o!ers that are always surprising.
Culture of freedom
Much more than a neighbourhood
Wherever you are from and whatever your sexual orientation, you will feel comfortable in Madrid. The Spanish capital has set an example for countries around the world ghting for LGBT acceptance, and the e!ort made over decades by the neighbours and businesspeople of the Chueca district has extended to the whole city. This display of integration and tolerance is celebrated annually with the Gay Pride Festivities.
Chueca has become a synonym of diversity, the destination for visitors without prejudices or complexes. Its pubs, cafés, bookstores and shops have been pioneers of a modernity that is also at home in other nearby areas. You will also nd a complete range of gay friendly accommodation, restaurants, bars, nightclubs and shops throughout the whole centre of Madrid.
30-31 MADRID ES DIVERSA.indd 030
Madrid's welcoming character can be enjoyed all year round. CALENDAR The Madrid Tourist Board organises tours of Chueca. Further information and the full listing of what's on can be found at: www.esMADRID. com/en/gay-madrid MULTICULTURAL The mix of cultures is part of the essence and charm of districts such as Malasaña, Lavapiés and La Latina. The whole world is welcome. GAY PRIDE WEEK The whole city throws itself into one of its essential events. With the arrival of summer, Madrid is a party that you will not want to miss. LESGAICINEMAD In November, lovers of LGBT cinema can enjoy one of the most complete festivals on the international circuit.
30-31 MADRID ES DIVERSA.indd 031
The Madrid Card is indispensable for your visit to Madrid. You can enjoy its advantages at a wide range of the citys tourist and cultural attractions.
Museums and Monuments
Entry to over 50 museums
and monuments in Madrid (including the Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza and Reina Sofía museums, with priority admission).
Includes admission to the
Bernabéu Tour, Atlético de Madrid Tour and Las Ventas Bullring Tour. The Essential Madrid guided tour from the Discover Madrid programme.
Discounts and free gifts in major stores.
Big discounts at leading restaurants.
Discounts for flamenco shows, cafés with live music and nightclubs.
You can buy the card in: City Council Tourist Information Centres Museums Hotels Travel agencies Spanish and International tour operators Buy online: esmadrid.com/madridcard
hapsburg literary quarter casa de campo castellana chamberí chueca conde duque gran vía/sol la latina lavapiés madrid río malasaña the art walk princesa el retiro salamanca salesas
33 PORTADILLA BARRIOS.indd 033
NEIGHBOURHOODS HAPSBURG (AUSTRIAS) FaĂ§ade of the Casa de la PanaderĂa in Plaza Mayor, with its attractive mural. Below, the entrance from Calle Postas.
Borders with: La Latina, Sol and Plaza de Santo Domingo. Gastronomy: Traditional and modern tapas, gastropubs, centuries-old bars. Shopping: Souvenirs, music shops, antiques, traditional stores. Origins: 16th century. Surprises: The pleasant atmosphere of the streets away from the tourist trail. Style: Traditional, cultural, bohemian, elegant.
Where it all began
Madrid became the Spanish capital in this labyrinth of narrow streets where the pedestrian reigns, the opera plays and haute cuisine can be sampled at a market. Come and discover how the great historical landmarks, such as the Plaza Mayor, the Royal Palace and the Cathedral, are just as charming as the small squares.
34-39 AUSTRIAS.indd 034
ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
Join the heartbeat of historic Madrid Go through the famous Arco de Cuchilleros, one of the nine gates to the rst great public works that were done in Madrid when it became the Spanish capital. You will nd that since that time long ago, it has maintained its vitality. It has nothing in common with a historical monument frozen in time; the attractive mural on the Casa de la Panadería is less than 20 years old. MEETING POINT Bullring and scene of the acts of faith of the Inquisition in the past, as well as a traditional marketplace, today it is a bustling Christmas market, meeting point for foreign tourists and for stamp and coin collectors, and even an open-air concert hall. You really shouldn't miss the chance to try the typical squid-ring sandwiches, as well as the beers, pulled by master barmen and served in the open-air.
34-39 AUSTRIAS.indd 035
NEIGHBOURHOODS HAPSBURG (AUSTRIAS) Jorge Blass LANDSCAPES AND HIDDEN CORNERS
Lose yourself in a labyrinth brimming with legends
In the narrow streets of Hapsburg Madrid, you will be surprised by countless anecdotes. The pedestrian Calle Santiago leads to the church of the same name, one of the rst parishes of the city. The next square, Plaza de Ramales, marks the former site of the church of San Juan Bautista. PARADISE BY NIGHT In the Plaza de la Villa, visitors will nd the old Town Hall in Baroque style, as well as the Casa de los Lujanes, one of the most signicant works of the Renaissance in Madrid, where King Francis I of France was held prisoner. In the Plaza del Conde de Barajas, street artists showcase their work in the shade of the trees. The more austere Plaza del Conde de Miranda holds the entrance to Las Carboneras Convent, where mass is still celebrated for the 'The Great Captain', Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba, a general of the Catholic Monarchs.
Magician, lives in Ópera. A magical place: Sunset seen from the garden in Calle Factor, just before La Almudena Cathedral. Where to eat: La Algarabía (Unión, 8), run by two sisters from La Rioja. Serves great wines. Shopping: El Almacén de Pontejos (Plaza de Pontejos, 2). The most beautiful haberdashery in the world, essential for my work. Something sweet: You've got to try the torrijas at La Casa de las Torrijas (Paz, 4). Going out: Anticafé (Unión, 2), decorated in 1950s style, a marvellous place for a gin and tonic.
The remains of the city wall are now used to hold exhibitions; the new San Miguel Market (right), a place to enjoy gourmet tapas.
34-39 AUSTRIAS.indd 036
SAN MIGUEL MARKET
Where going for ‘tapas’ becomes a gourmet ritual A gem of early 20th century cast-iron architecture. In 2009, the stalls were renovated and now shoppers will nd only rst-class foodstu!s and seasonal produce, which can be bought or sampled. The best salt cod, for example, is sold seasoned, as well as in portions for tasting.
E SANTO DOMINGO
JARDINES DEL CAMPO DEL MORO
BA ILÉ N
CUESTA DE SAN
OYSTERS WITH CHAMPAGNE But there's much more: bars with a great range of tapas, a wine bar, gastronomy books, owers, cakes, designer cooking utensils, and so on. All of this has meant that in record time the market has become one of the hotspots of the city at any time of day. On Friday and Saturday many of the stalls stay open until two in the morning.
TIRSO DE MOLINA
1. Sabatini Gardens 2. Royal Palace 3. Plaza de Oriente 4. Teatro Real opera house 5. Plaza de Ramales 6. La Almudena Cathedral 7. Plaza de la Villa 8. San Miguel Market 9. Plaza del Conde de Miranda 10. Plaza del Conde de Barajas
34-39 AUSTRIAS.indd 037
NEIGHBOURHOODS HAPSBURG (AUSTRIAS)
From left to right, the Teatro Real, La Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace, the three great landmarks in the always lively Plaza de Oriente.
Seek inspiration in the temple of opera Local productions and foreign ones, master classes and even pop concerts can be heard within its walls, which underwent numerous renovations until their nal restoration in 1997. Even on their own the elegant rooms of La Rotonda, used for royal receptions, make it worthwhile to
visit this neoclassical temple of opera, a natural-born survivor. During the Civil War it was used as an arsenal, ending up almost in ruins. Its intense activity is echoed by the nearby cafés, always buzzing before a performance, as well as the rened music shops and the luthiers' workshops.
5 key words 1. 2. 3. PEDESTRIAN
To make it easier for visitors, most of the streets are closed to vehicular traffic.
From Sol to Ópera, a shopping area has been established after recent remodelling work.
Discover the fallen angel in Calle Mayor, on the corner of Calle de los Milaneses.
4. LABYRINTH 5. AUSTERITY Its narrow tracks The architecture in and alleys can confuse even the best GPS system.
this area belongs to one of the most austere times in the history of Spain.
34-39 AUSTRIAS.indd 038
PLAZA DE ORIENTE
CHILDREN At Christmas the Plaza Mayor is a market with everything you could need to set up a nativity scene.
The most impressive sunset in an illustrious setting It is the most elegant green square in Madrid, a tting neighbour to the buildings around it: the Teatro Real, La Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace, with must-see treasures and relics. But above all don't miss the Solemn Changing of the Guard (rst Wednesday of each month at 12pm). MUSIC IN THE GARDEN Right in the middle of the square is a statue of Felipe IV on horseback, as well as a shady playground for the children. During summer, the adjoining Sabatini Gardens become the stage for amenco, zarzuela and classical music concerts. A little further on, you can see one of the most spectacular sunsets in the city, which is a local phenomenon worth contemplating because of the clear sky in the region. You will not nd a better viewpoint than that of the terraces surrounding Plaza de Oriente.
34-39 AUSTRIAS.indd 039
NEIGHBOURHOODS LITERARY QUARTER Calle de las Huertas is a pedestrian street with a literary atmosphere. The decoration shops add zest to the neighbourhood.
Be swept o! your feet by this chic bohemia
Literary Quarter This will be your ďƒžrst stop in a memorable evening. It has so much to offer in art, entertainment and culture, original shops and a rich gastronomic tradition that will allow you to enjoy surprises and casual meetings with friends. You will certainly feel like a local at the open-air tables on the pedestrian streets.
40-45 BARRIO DE LAS LETRAS.indd 040
ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
CALLE DE LAS HUERTAS
A stroll through history Come and walk along the main artery of a neighbourhood that is continuously upgrading. As it has been completely pedestrianised, Calle de las Huertas has become a natural channel that connects leafy Paseo del Prado with traditional Plaza Mayor. You can discover it by foot and enjoy one of the areas in Madrid that has experienced the greatest transformation in recent years. Without betraying its rich historical identity, it has re-emerged as a perfect emblem of modernity and savoir faire. MEET THE NEIGHBOURS If you join it from Jacinto Benavente, you will soon enter the enchanting atmosphere of Plaza del Ángel, the discrete sister of Santa Ana. From there, going downhill, among local shops and a variety of gastronomic options, you will nd Plaza de Matute. Its open-air tables reect the vivacity of the neighbourhood; it is an essential thoroughfare and a tempting morning stop. Then there is a labyrinth of streets where you can lose yourself for a while. After you cross Calle de Jesús, you will reach Plaza de las Platerías de Martínez, the ideal spot for a lively aperitif.
Borders with: Paseo del Prado, Atocha, Lavapiés and Sol. Gastronomy: Going for tapas here is a cultural event. Traditional set menus and international dishes. Shopping: Handmade crafts, antiques and vintage decoration. Surprises: Home of Spanish literature and theatre. Origins: Golden Age. Style: Informal, cultural, cosmopolitan, elegant.
40-45 BARRIO DE LAS LETRAS.indd 041
From the Teatro Español to the Reina Victoria, the open-air tables in Plaza de Santa Ana are a customary meeting place. Opposite, inside the Ateneo.
hot tips 1. DEL ÁNGEL Name of the square
where you can sleep in a palace (De Tepa) and listen to live jazz (Café Central).
2. ECHEGARAY Here you will find traditional wine cellars, original shops, fashionable nightclubs and exotic cuisine.
3. ZARZUELA Behind the Congress, this is the theatre where you can discover the best of this Spanish lyric genre.
PLAZA DE SANTA ANA
Taking pleasure in watching life go by This philosophy of continual fusion of new and old can also be seen in the lively heart of the Literary Quarter. Plaza de Santa Ana, at the intersection of Calle del Prado and Calle del Príncipe, is a square, anked by two solemn buildings, where you can experience all the delights of the area. On one side is the emblematic Teatro Español, the old Corral de la Pacheca, one of the most dynamic cultural venues in Madrid with excellent productions that will also surprise you. THE BEST ATTRACTION At the other end is the imposing old Gran Hotel Reina Victoria, traditional meeting point of bullghting culture, which has been reborn as Me Madrid, an example of design and sophistication with a rooftop terrace bar where you can enjoy prime views of the area. Down below in the centre of the square, which has handy underground parking for access to this pedestrianised area, there are lively open-air tables that are an essential meeting point for neighbours and visitors alike. Tapas and beer are part of the daily ritual watched over by statues of Calderón de la Barca and Federico García Lorca.
40-45 BARRIO DE LAS LETRAS.indd 042
May the muses be with you!
PARLIAMENT In nearby restaurants its lords settle the most condential deals in Madrid.
You can immerse yourself in the spirit of the most illustrious Spanish geniuses of universal literature, immortalised in the street names and on the pavement of Calle de las Huertas, where their legendary verses will accompany your footsteps. Here lived Quevedo, Góngora, Calderón, Tirso and Lope de Vega, whose renovated house museum (including veggie patch) is open for visits and whose remains are buried in the parish of San Sebastián. This is the church where, years later, Larra, Bécquer, Valle-Inclán and other writers would marry. It was also the setting for the comedies of Jardiel Poncela and the dramas of Galdós. FEEL THE CULTURAL VIBRATIONS Cervantes was also one of the famous neighbours here. He is buried in the Trinitarias Descalzas Convent, and the rst edition of Don Quixote came o! the press of Juan de la Cuesta in Calle Atocha. Today the neighbourhood is still a place for intellectuals: from the Ateneo, which has been enlightening members since the 19th century, to the latest work of Medialab Prado and Hub Madrid, in the 21st century.
Mario Gas Director of the Teatro Español. Where to eat: I like so many places! Hylogui, Don Zoco, El Lacón, Viña P, La Creacione, Come Prima, La Suiza, La Ancha, Edelweiss... Where to shop: Lhardy, the Chinese bazaar in Plaza de Matute, Futonia, La Luna... A special corner: The bar of the Teatro Español. A favourite street or square: Plaza de Santa Ana. It inspires different things at different times of the day and year.
40-45 BARRIO DE LAS LETRAS.indd 043
Creativity is in the street If you spend a day wandering the streets of the Literary Quarter, you will see that despite the presence of tourists, the neighbourhood has a real community feel to it. With its ambitious pedestrianisation plan it shows o! a face lift that has made it even more attractive. A traditional area for nightlife, it now has new shopping opportunities, but it has still kept the unique character of the traditional stores, from workshops producing leather goods, guitars, frames and shoes to the most prestigious old bookshops, which even have guided tours. SEEK INSPIRATION FOR YOUR HOME Behind CaixaForum, going uphill from Paseo del Prado, you will nd a hive of decoration shops specialising in vintage design, with authentic antique heirlooms, furniture gems from the 19th and 20th centuries, signature chairs and fantasy lamps. They rub shoulders with interior design studios and contemporary art galleries.
Aitana Zaldunca Vincapervinca. Where to eat: Taberna Mariano (Lope de Vega, 25). I feel at home there. Delicatessen: At González (León, 12). I love to sit by the window and watch life go by. Where to shop: Antón Martín Market for everyday things. San Miguel Market for treats. Trend: AdHoc and Vincapervinca together (León, 11), clothes shop and florist, original and fun. Don't miss: The Trinitarias Convent where Cervantes is buried, few people know about this.
40-45 BARRIO DE LAS LETRAS.indd 044
From left to right. Roof terrace of the Urban hotel; inside Hub Madrid; antique dealer Alejandro Fauquié's shop; the original tapas bar Estado Puro.
EATING AND DRINKING
Enjoy the most international avours
You can enjoy toasted bread with tomato and olive oil for breakfast in the sun in a square or dine on smoked meats with splashes of di!erent kinds of vodka. As far as gastronomy is concerned, the Literary Quarter has something for everyone, from small restaurants with market-fresh food to temples of modern cuisine, as well as vegetarian, Cuban, Peruvian and paella restaurants with patio gardens. You can enjoy the best French croissants for brunch and you really must try the traditional lentils with chorizo at Casa Alberto. The bars of Echegaray and the beer halls of Cervantes and Duque de Medinaceli are a good choice if you prefer to have tapas at the bar with your drinks.
CARRERA DE SAN JERÓNIMO 1
5 O PASE
PLAZA SANTA ANA
1. Casa Asia 2. Plaza de las Cortes 3. Madrid Ateneo 4. Lope de Vega House Museum 5. Jesús de Medinaceli 6. Teatro Español 7. Plaza del Ángel 8. Church of San Sebastián 9. Plaza de Matute 10. CaixaForum
40-45 BARRIO DE LAS LETRAS.indd 045
NEIGHBOURHOODS CASA DE CAMPO
Borders with: Aravaca, Pozuelo, Puerta del Ángel, Manzanares. Where to eat: Lakeside picnic areas and restaurants on the Paseo de la Gastronomía. For the family: The Zoo and Amusement Park are a must, especially in good weather. Its secret: It’s the perfect spot to get away and take a breather. Sport: Jogging, tennis, swimming, cycling, canoeing. Origins: 16th century. Style: Sporting, casual.
Breathe easy among pines and oaks
Casa de Campo The perfect setting for a day out in the heart of Madrid, whether it's cycling, picnicking by the lake, checking out the wild animals or braving the roller-coaster loops at the Amusement Park. THE GREAT GREEN LUNG
Take a break from the city, without even leaving it! With more than 1,722 hectares, 5 times the size of New York's Central Park, Casa de Campo is one of Europe's largest urban parks. Like many of its kind, it was originally a royal hunting ground that was later opened to the public. Pine groves prevail and oaks abound, while plane trees and chestnuts ank the main roads, making Casa de Campo a great jogging trail and outdoor cycling track. Check out the cycling circuit
that encircles Madrid and branches o! the M-40 to enter the park, which is where lovers of mountain biking will nd the most exciting routes; Madrid's sunny climate ensures the best ground conditions possible for this activity. You'll pass many attractions along the way: from the Puente de la Culebra (Snake Bridge) and the Puente del Ferrocarril (Railway Bridge), to the bunkers from the Civil War and the various fountains.
46-49 CASA DE CAMPO.indd 046
FOOD & DRINK
The Royal Palace and La Almudena Cathedral stand out over one of the hills in Casa de Campo.
46-49 CASA DE CAMPO.indd 047
NEIGHBOURHOODS CASA DE CAMPO
High impact: Amusement Park, Aquarium and Cable Car.
ZOO-AQUARIUM AND AMUSEMENT PARK
Hours of fun for the whole family! Wild animals on one side, breakneck loops on the other. New attractions are opened every season. At Madrid's Zoo and Aquarium you can sleep with sharks, get close to giant pandas and plan your visit with your mobile phone and our alert system, which means you won't miss a
thing. Discover one of the biggest new attractions in the Amusement Park, the Star Flyer, a 20-storey free-fall drop tower. Classics like the walk-through horror attraction El Pasaje del Terror, the big wheel, the grand merry-go-round and bumper cars make for an unforgettable evening.
not to be3.missed 1. 2. 4. 5. PICNIC
The picnic areas dispersed among the trees are the perfect setting for an afternoon with the family.
Casa de Campo, Lago and BatĂĄn Metro stations will take you to the most strategic points.
This area has also benefited from the ambitious renewal and expansion project Madrid RĂo.
For an unrivalled aerial view of the city. Departs from Pintor Rosales and stops right in the centre of the park.
In spring it is covered with a blanket of grass. In summer the shade of its trees relieves the heat.
46-49 CASA DE CAMPO.indd 048
GREEN The ora and fauna are perfectly adapted to the park's dry and sunny climate.
OS DE LOS PIN
E PASEO D
C ASTAÑO S LOS
DE SO MO SAGUAS
PARQUE DEL OESTE
ERA DE L A CIUDAD
CAMINO DE VA CARRET
PARQUE DE LA BOMBILLA
CASA DE CAMPO
CAMPO DEL MORO
PUERTA DEL ÁNGEL
ALTO DE EXTREMADURA
CASA DE CAMPO
Ricardo Esteban Zoo-Aquarium Director Giant Pandas: This is Spain's only zoo where you can see them, and is also Europe's only zoo where twin cubs were born. Dolphins: They draw the biggest crowds and perform a great show of strength and intelligence. Sharks: These ferocious predators live in a one million litre saltwater aquarium. Gorillas: They're impressive! We have successfully created a breeding group, which will contribute to preserving this species.
1. Cycling Circuit 2. Cable Car 3. Lake 4. Trade Fair Park 5. Madrid Arena 6. Paseo de la Gastronomía 7. Escenario Puerta del Ángel 8. Amusement Park 9. Zoo-Aquarium 10. Puente de la Culebra
LAKE AND TRADE FAIR PARK
Get the most out of your time o!
The area around the lake is the best access point to Casa de Campo, and is also the main meeting point and location of the park's tourist information centre. Those with romance in mind can gently row a boat over the lake, while those who prefer to keep t can try the canoes. To recover your strength, the lakeside terraces and picnic areas are ideal for a lovely lunch in the sun. You can extend your after-lunch conversations at one of the excellent nearby restaurants on the Paseo de la Gastronomía. SHOWS AND EVENTS The rst ever trade fair park in Madrid stands in the vicinity of the revamped Avenida de Portugal, and still hosts many events such as ArtMadrid, ExpoCómic and Classic-Auto. Some events have been relocated to the nearby indoor stadium Madrid Arena, which reaches its zenith in sporting and musical events. Just steps away, the Escenario Puerta del Ángel stage hosts the headlining gigs of the Veranos de la Villa festival.
46-49 CASA DE CAMPO.indd 049
DISTRICTS XXXXXX DRINKS
From left to right: Espacio (Space) Tower, Cristal (Crystal) Tower, SyV Tower and Caja Madrid Tower. Below: BernabĂŠu Stadium and an exhibition at the old Canal de Isabel II facilities
50-53 CASTELLANA.indd 050
NEIGHBOURHOODS CASTELLANA ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
From Madrid to the heavens
You better not be scared of heights, because this 6+ km long avenue is home to Spain's highest skyscrapers. A vibrant economic, shopping and sporting district, Paseo de la Castellana is the core axis that divides the city into two.
Borders with: Tetuán, Chamartín, Salamanca, Chamberí. Gastronomy: Haute cuisine, business menus, cosmopolitan. Shopping: From Ortega y Gasset to Azca, a great shopping area. Business: Deals are sealed at restaurant tables. Real Madrid: The Bernabéu stadium is its sporting heart. Traffic: Heavy, it is a huge central artery from north to south. Origins: 19th century. Style: Business, high-class.
A walk through the skyscrapers The rst thing you can see of Madrid from the distance is its new architectural icon Cuatro Torres Business Area, which is located at the extreme north of Paseo de la Castellana. Caja Madrid Tower, which was designed by Sir Norman Foster, stands at 250 metres, making it Spain's tallest and Europe's fth tallest building. You need to look up from its base to appreciate the sheer height of it. The district is also home to other modern architectural landmarks, that are still as striking today as they ever were. The National Statistics Institute (INE) building, which has undergone a colourful and brave face-lift; the Picasso Tower, which rises like a robust Greek column; the BBVA Bank headquarters, with its predominantly horizontal lines; and the Seguros Catalana Occidente headquarters, which seems to defy gravity. 01. Torre BBVA
06. Torre Picasso
02. Torre Caja Madrid
07. Torre Espacio
03. Torre de Cristal
08.Torres de Colón
04. Torre de Catalana Occidente
09. INE Building
05. Torre Sacyr Vallehermoso
224m 116m 45m
10. Torres Kio
50-53 CASTELLANA.indd 051
Castellana - a district brimming with art and science The hustle and bustle of Paseo de la Castellana extends to the science and cultural centres, from the art centre of the Teatro Fernรกn Gรณmez in Colรณn district, to the Palacio de Congresos, whose facade was designed by Mirรณ. Stop by the Residencia de Estudiantes and you're likely to stumble upon conferences by Nobel laureates and other luminaries who frequent the place; the Ivorypress Art+Books Space always has some interesting surprises in store. STUFFED ELEPHANT Another must in the area is the Museum of Natural Science, which is housed in an impressive building that was built as a conference centre in the 19th century. With its highly popular stu!ed elephant, a visit to this museum is like a journey through time that amazes all ages. More recently, the exhibitions at the Canal Art Centre have boosted the cultural identity of Plaza de Castilla.
50-53 CASTELLANA.indd 052
Architect and Designer of the SyV Tower. Favourite buildings: The Allianz, Catalana Occidente, Bankinter, BBVA and Bankunion Headquarters, the Nuevos Ministerios Building, Kio Towers and the Cuatro Torres. How would you define Castellana? Castellana is all about continuous expansion. The first section dates back to the 19th century, the second to the 20th, and the 21st has ushered in Madrid's largest urban project with its expansion to the north. What are the Cuatro Torres all about? They are a dynamic hub of activity that shifts the city's centre of gravity to the north.
The hustle and bustle of buildings like Kio Towers moves to the after work bars in the evenings.
SANTIAGO BERNABÉU STADIUM
Get ready to rock with a team of legends
1. Cuatro Torres Business Area 2. Torres Kio 3. Canal Art Centre 4. INE Headquarters 5. Conference Centre 6. Santiago Bernabéu Stadium 7. Azca (Torre Picasso and BBVA Headquarters) 8. Residencia de Estudiantes 9. Museum of Natural Science 10. Catalana Occidente Headquarters
Real Madrid is still the most successful football team of all time (9 European Cups, 31 Spanish League Cups). Naturally, the stadium lives up to the club's reputation. With a capacity for 80,354 spectators, it's bursting at the seams for every home match. And not only supporters of Real Madrid and the opposing team attend these matches, but also football lovers from the world over. This sporting event is well worth seeing. The Bernabéu Tour allows access to the Trophy Room, the team's pitch-side benches and even a stroll on the pitch. GLORIOUS MOMENTS Opened in 1947, the stadium hosted the 2010 Champions League Final, the 1982 World Cup Final, the 1964 European Championship Final, and three European Cup Finals in 1980, 1969 and 1957. Frank Sinatra (1976) and Bruce Springsteen (2008) have also played here.
3. TERRACES When the sun is out, bars invade the footpaths, creating a fantastic atmosphere both day and night.
30 C A LL E
PLAZA DE CASTILLA
I M AT EO NURR
S D EV IA
ALBERTO ALCOCER CUZCO
REIN A VICTORIA
PR ÍNC IPE DE VER GA RA
impossible not to cross this 6 km long avenue getting around Madrid.
M UR IL
2. JUNCTION It's practically
B R AVO
Castellana continues expanding: new urban developments will expand it even further north.
PA S E O
DE LA CASTE
O SINE SIO DEL GAD AV E
8 9 10
50-53 CASTELLANA.indd 053
The true essence of this district is captured in the grand doorways of Calle Almagro. Next page: the AndĂŠn Cero museum of the old station and the children's park in Plaza Olavide.
The charm of the bourgeoisie
ChamberĂ The price per square metre in this distinguished district of Madrid is not a result of speculation. Take a stroll through it, and you'll be blown away by the sheer size of some of the mansions along streets such as Calle Zurbano. Check out the stunning gardens of the Sorolla Museum, as well as the many art galleries, theatres and jazz clubs, and you'll soon discover why this district never fails to captivate.
SWEETS The patisseries in the area are famously popular. Their secret? Their homemade delights.
54-57 CHAMBERI.indd CHAMBERI .indd 054 054
NEIGHBOURHOODS CHAMBERÍ ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
Palaces t for a queen, colleges built as monuments To appreciate its stunning mansions and buildings, this Madrid neighbourhood is best enjoyed on foot. A good starting point is the Sorolla Museum, a beautiful historic villa that was the family home of Valencian painter Joaquín Sorolla. Lose yourself in its tranquil fountain gardens while contemplating the artist's radiant works. ZURBANO - LUXURY PERSONIFIED The elegant style of Calle General Martínez Campos extends to Fortuny, Orla and Eduardo Dato, three streets which are home to majestic palaces such as the one that belonged to the Marquises of Bermejilla del Rey. Many of the palaces on Calle Zurbano are now banks, luxury restaurants and 5-star hotels. This is one of the most exclusive areas of Madrid. The Association of Civil Engi neers building on Calle Almagro stands out for its sheer size.
Borders with: Salesas, Princesa, Castellana, Ríos Rosas. Gastronomy: Distinguished and exotic restaurants, business menus, local cuisine and traditional bars. Shopping: A mixture of traditional stores, designer shops and high-street fashion chains. Hidden gems: The old Chamberí Metro Station Museum. Origins: 18th century. Style: Old-fashioned bourgeois with a cosmopolitan atmosphere.
54-57 CHAMBERI.indd 055
DISTRICTS CASA DE CAMPO
3 tips 1. GOLF There is a course with artificial grass in the Canal's old water facilities.
2. EATING On Calle Ponzano you have a choice of excellent restaurants offering a wide range of cuisines.
3. ART If you're a collector, you'll love popping into the different art galleries on Calle Montesquinza.
Sergi Arola THEATRE
Experience the sheer magic of the stage in Chamberí The new Teatros del Canal which opened in February 2009 only serves to strengthen the cultural signicance of a district that has always had a theatrical draw. This ambitious project o!ers more than 80 shows per season, and has two huge venues for performances, as well as a dance centre. The building was designed by Juan Navarro Baldeweg, and is an impressive structure covered by transparent opaque glass. ALTERNATIVE VENUES The style of the La Abadía and Amaya theatres ranges from the bohemian to the commercial. While music lovers will nd two legendary Spanish venues in this neighbourhood: the Galileo Galilei venue, where comedy and magic shows are really gaining pace, and Clamores, an absolute must for jazz lovers.
Chef, long-time local resident. Where he's at: Sergi Arola Gastro restaurant (Zurbano, 31). Where's good for breakfast: The Chamberí market is an absolute must for me every morning. Where to shop: Lanikai (Alberto Aguilera, 1), for casual clothing. Bonneville and Makinostra (General Álvarez de Castro, 23 and 26), for motorbike lovers. A favourite spot: Plaza de Chamberí on Sunday afternoons in springtime. It relieves the stresses built up over the week.
54-57 CHAMBERI.indd CHAMBERI .indd 056 056
CAS TEL L
ACIA NGR TA E SAN
7 LU CH AN A
8 ZALO GON ELOY
9 ZURB ANO
Classic and modern styles converge in Chamberí. Previous page: Teatros del Canal, the Geomining Museum and the Ne Me Quitte Pas café/theatre. Below: the Sorolla Museum.
2 FERNÁNDEZ DE LOS RÍOS
L RRA NCA FUE
1. Teatros del Canal 2. Teatro de La Abadía 3. Sala Galileo Galilei 4. Plaza del Conde del Valle de Suchil 5. Plaza de Olavide 6. Sala Clamores 7. Andén 0 Museum 8. Calle General Martínez Campos 9. Sorolla Museum 10. Calle Almagro
ALONSO CANO JOSÉ
SAN BERNARDO BILBAO
A perfect triangle of open spaces People only start discovering the plazas of Chamberí when they really get to know Madrid. They maintain a truly authentic local feel. Plaza de Olavide is surrounded by elegant buildings, and is the perfect place to enjoy simple, traditional fare like Spanish omelette. PEACEFUL ATMOSPHERES Plaza del Conde del Valle de Suchil is one of those places that shrouds you in serenity. The stately Plaza de Chamberí is slightly more exposed, but is the perfect spot for having a drink while watching the kids play on the swings.
54-57 CHAMBERI.indd 057
The huge transformation this Madrid neighbourhood has undergone in recent years has turned it into a shining example of LGBT diversity that attracts attention the world over. Step into its super-trendy shops, restaurants and clubs and discover what makes this area so special.
Day or night, Plaza de Chueca is a hugely popular meeting point for girls and boys.
58-61 CHUECA.indd 058
LG BT NIGHTLIFE
FOOD & DRINK
Location: From Gran VĂa to Tribunal, between Calle Fuencarral and Calle Barquillo. Gastronomy: From modest eateries to avant-garde designer restaurants. Shopping: Super trendy fashion, footwear, gifts... Best kept secret: Its hugely popular style is still in vogue, and it's home to all walks of life. Origins: 19th century. Style: Cosmopolitan, non-conformist, carefree.
PLAZA DE CHUECA
Welcome to the party zone! LG The e!orts of the LGBT (lesbian, gay, BT bisexual and transgender) community helped to restore this neighbourhood in the 90s and transform it into a shining example of diversity and integration for the whole world. Today it is one of the most cosmopolitan and vibrant districts in Madrid. Plaza de Chueca is the area's nerve centre, with all of the hustle and bustle of day and nightlife revolving around it. The night always starts in the outdoor bars that line this square, where the young and young at heart come to watch and be seen.
Chueca boasts some of the best The Gay Pride nightlife in Madrid, and promises Festivities will take a merry-go-round of laughter and frolics. Check out any of the place all over the clubs in the area if you fancy a city on the week drink with a drag queen and noncommencing stop dancing. The non-conformist, June 28. festive spirit behind the hugely successful Gay Pride Festivities in Chueca, which climaxes with the Grand Parade, has been a huge hit with the rest of the city. An incredible experience that you'll want to repeat year after year.
58-61 CHUECA.indd 059
The Golden Mile of high fashion Since Fuencarral Market opened over 10 years ago, this street has become the undisputed star when it comes to shopping in Madrid. With its avant-garde shops, its huge success soon aroused the interest of international brands, which has gradually attracted an even more diverse public. PEDESTRIAN THOROUGHFARE The recently implemented pedestrianisation project has maintained the area's identity, and you can now walk the entire length of Calle Fuencarral and surrounding areas as if you were in a giant shopping centre. Discover the very latest fashion trends in its many shop windows.
Fashion bargains abound at Maje. Pop into Taberna Ángel Sierra for drinkies.
TO S OD E RE C
6 GRAN VÍA
RT AL HO
BANCO DE ESPAÑA
1. Museum of Romanticism 2. Fuencarral Market 3. Calle Augusto Figueroa 4. San Antón Market 5. Plaza Vázquez de Mella 6. Calle de la Reina 7. Plaza del Rey 8. Chicote Bar & Museum
58-61 CHUECA.indd 060
don't forget 1. 2. 3. ART Check out the spruced up Museum of Romanticism, which is located in a building from 1776.
SHOES If it's shoes you're after, there's no better place to go than the outlet shops on Calle Augusto Figueroa.
You'll find places to eat and drink at any time of the day or night.
4. SHOPPING 5. ATMOSPHERE You'll find everything The open and friendly from LGBT bookshops to art galleries, t-shirt shops, accessories...
nature here creates a lively buzz of residents and visitors coming and going.
Variety is the key to nding the spice of life If you're looking for somewhere to eat or drink in Madrid, you'll most likely end up in some restaurant in Chueca; no other neighbourhood has so many options to choose from. Traditional eateries rub shoulders with restaurants serving international cuisine, signature dishes and culinary creations for all tastes – and all at a!ordable prices.
Daily food supplies can be bought at the newly revamped San Antón Market, which is something that has become quite a ritual in the neighbourhood since it was remodelled. Renovation was carried out using a sustainable construction model, and it now has parking spaces, many di!erent food stands, childcare facilities and a roof terrace from which to enjoy the view.
Alfonso Llopart Editor of Shangay Express Magazine.
Not just for sleeping: RoomMate Oscar (Plaza Vázquez de Mella, 12). For tapas: Bocaíto (Libertad, 4). Pedro Almodóvar, Penélope Cruz and Hugh Grant recommend it. La Tita Rivera (Pérez Galdós, 4) has a private terrace. For lunch: El Armario (San Bartolomé, 7) and Momo (Libertad, 8). For dinner: Gula Gula (Gran Vía, 1) and Bazaar (Libertad, 21), two styles. At night: Fulanita de Tal (Conde de Xiquena, 2), open to everybody – especially girls. Boîte (Tetuán, 27), full of handsome boys looking for party action.
58-61 CHUECA.indd 061
NEIGHBOURHOODS CONDE DUQUE
Conde Duque's myriad of small shops have transformed it into an independent and alternative shopping landmark in Madrid.
62-65 CONDE DUQUE.indd 062
ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
Discover a very distinctive style
Conde Duque Not as tongue-in-cheek as Malasaña, as diverse as Gran Vía, or indeed as cool as Chueca, Conde Duque quietly absorbs the best of its neighbours. It could be described as a Russian doll: multilayered. Its streets lead to plazas, which lead to curious little tucked-away spots, which lead to grand doorways, which lead to sculptures...
Borders with: Plaza de España and Calles San Bernardo, Princesa and Alberto Aguilera. Gastronomy: Versatile and affordable, ranging from traditional to the most exotic. Shopping: Destination stores, small retail shops for browsing. Ambience: Its many small plazas create a sense of community in the middle of this big city. A tip: Get there early if you want to ensure available seats at the hugely popular open-air tables.
Calle Conde Duque is home to some of the best men's clothing shops in Madrid.
Discover hidden treasures in countless small shops The word "franchise" is not very popular in this district. Conde Duque is like microshopping heaven – a stronghold of small independent businesses. This area of Madrid has seen haberdasheries, hardware shops, bookstores and shmongers going steady for decades. But more interestingly, many newer shops run by young people coexist in perfect harmony with these long-standing traditional businesses. A WELLKNOWN SECRET On the distinctly indie feeling streets of Limón, Amaniel and Travesía de Conde Duque you can buy owers, rare vinyls, comics, art books, English soaps – you name it! Good buyers know they'll have to deviate from the o!cial routes if they're going to track down that Cashmere top they never knew they always wanted, or that cool lamp they saw in a fashion magazine.
62-65 CONDE DUQUE.indd 063
NEIGHBOURHOODS CONDE DUQUE
Emilio Valdivia THE BARRACKS
More than just a cultural centre, it is an emblem of modernity This impressive edice was once Madrid's largest building. Even by today's standards its dimensions still astound: a surface area of 5,000m2 and a 228m façade. Once it has been renovated, the barracks will start a new period of housing the City's Central Library, Music Library, Newspaper Library and Video Library. It was built by Pedro de Ribera under the reign of King Philip V at the start of the 18th century as the Royal Barracks of the Guardias de Corps, and later housed an astronomical observatory. Its usage underwent radical changes in the 80s when it hosted the hugely popular Veranos de la Villa festival; fans reminisce about the legendary concerts they saw on the cobblestone patio to this day. Since 2001, the building has been home to the Museum of Contemporary Art, a gallery with avantgarde paintings and photography.
Conde Duque is full of great little spots for enjoying tapas in style, and local businesses revolve around the former barracks.
Partner at Grupo Sportivo (store). Where: In one of their four fashion stores in the neighbourhood. Where to eat: Taberna de Abajo (Limón, 16). Beers are pulled in the old style. La Dichosa (Bernardo López García, 11). Good wines and tapas. For a drink: Taberna del Limón (Limón, 22) and El Jardín Secreto (Conde Duque, 2). Cocktails and a great atmosphere for chatting. A special spot: Radio City Discos (Plaza Guardias de Corps, 1). Anywhere else? Mini (Limón, 24), where all Madrid's dandies hang out.
also 1. NOVELS
As one of the most literary neighbourhoods, it appears in the works of Spanish writers Galdós and Almudena Grandes.
2. MONUMENTS Buildings like the Convent of Las Comendadoras de Santiago and Montserrat's Church are a must-see.
3. COMICS The Otaku Center
is a meeting point for Japanese manga and anime lovers.
62-65 CONDE DUQUE.indd 064
AL BERTO AG UILERA
TA C RU
5 6 AM AN IEL
1 VENTURA RODRÍGUEZ
QUI ÑON ES
SAN B ERNA R
SAN VICE NTE
1. Conde Duque Barracks 2. Plaza Guardias de Corps 3. ABC Museum 4. Pedestrian zone 5. Convent of Las Comendadoras de Santiago 6. Plaza de las Comendadoras 7. Our Lady of Montserrat Church 8. Calle San Bernardino
PLAZAS AND OPEN-AIR TABLES
What's it to be: A beer with croquettes, tacos, noodles or hummus? Here you'll nd harmonious squares like Plaza de las Comendadoras, irregular ones like Plaza Conde Duque, and secluded ones like Plaza Guardias de Corps. Be sure to check out the crowded pedestrian zone located between the streets of Cristo, Bernardo López García and Limón for some some great wines and open toasties. This is a great, laid-back area for families to enjoy tapas, Sunday snacks, perfectly pulled beers, home made croquettes, a wide range of wines and gastro-tabernas. Bear in mind that the open-air tables get packed in spring and summer nights, so make sure you get there early. CURRIES, CHILIES AND MEZZES Who would have thought that you'd nd so many ethnic restaurants in such a distinctly Spanish neighbourhood? And what's more, this is nothing new or trendy or indeed expensive. Calle San Bernardino is home to scores of restaurants where you can nd authentic Lebanese, Thai, Indian, Mexican and Chinese dishes.
62-65 CONDE DUQUE.indd 065
NEIGHBOURHOODS GRAN VÍA / SOL
You are the star
Gran Vía / Sol
The geographical heart of the city: this is Madrid at its rawest, but at the same time, its most rened, adventurous, fun; oh, and did anyone mention – it's just a little bit f lash! Gran Vía is a monumental thoroughfare that is, frankly, worthy of envy. And Puerta del Sol is the ultimate destination to show off that you've been to Spain's capital city.
66-71 GRAN VIA SOL.indd 066
ART & CULTURE
Location: From Cibeles to Plaza de España, between Ópera and Sevilla. Gastronomy: Traditional stews, Spanish hams, sandwiches and fast food. Places to see: The finest buildings and the most photographed sites in Madrid. Best kept secret: The best cocktail bars in Spain. Ambience: Think Madrid according to Sabina and ValleInclán, as well as Álex de la Iglesia, Antonio López, Pedro Almodóvar and Alejandro Amenábar.
FOOD & DRINK
There's nothing quite like strolling down Gran Vía and Puerta del Sol to get a feeling for the cosmopolitan spirit and vibrant joy of the Madrileños.
The hottest spot in Madrid Heaven gets that bit closer to Madrid on Gran Vía. Here, the scale of things is just di!erent... At times it feels like you could be in New York, but all you have to do is look around at everyone drinking their hot chocolate with churros, or sipping their vermouths to realise you are in the heart of the Spanish capital. This 1.5km-long street, which is the result of an impressive urban project completed in the 19th century, is anked by spectacular buildings. THE VIEWS FROM ABOVE From Calle Alcalá to Plaza de España there are several must-see vantage points where you can view Madrid from above, such as the Fine Arts Circle, El Corte Inglés in Callao, the Ada Palace Hotel and the Hotel De las Letras. At the Vincci Capitol Hotel, you can almost touch the sky that Velázquez painted.
66-71 GRAN VIA SOL.indd 067
NEIGHBOURHOODS GRAN VÍA / SOL
Cinema and theatre for all tastes On the occasion of its rst centenary, Gran Vía has regained all its former glory. In the 80s there were 13 cinemas in the area, with huge handpainted billboards from the workshop of Gaspar Pérez. These have given way to neon signs, and the theatres now focus on musicals for all audiences. International blockbusters and national productions share the same pavement. Be sure to bring your camera along on Thursday nights to snap the movie stars working the red carpets, especially at Capitol and Callao.
Patricia Raznak Creative Director at Grassy. Where to eat: La Tasquita de Enfrente (Ballesta, 6), for market cuisine. (Note: this restaurant only has eight tables). What to drink: Gin & tonics at the Susan Club (Reina, 23). Where to shop: L’Habilleur (Plaza de Chueca, 8). Their styles are special and unusual. A favourite spot: The clock at the roundabout by Grassy jeweller's (Gran Vía, 1). It has been giving the time to Madrileños since the 50s.
66-71 GRAN VIA SOL.indd 068
To the right: cinemas, shops and shows on Gran Vía. Here: Museo Chicote bar, a Madrid classic.
WHAT'S IT TO BE?
4 after-show specials AFTERNOON SNACK + SHOW Suitable for children, who can have milkshakes and ham and cheese sandwiches at the legendary Nebraska café. CINEMA + COCKTAIL AT CHICOTE Invoke the spirit of Ava Gardner, Soa Loren and Lola Flores, who have all frequented this temple. THEATRE + DRINKS After a great performance, what could be better than relaxing in a traditional bar like José Alfredo, a favourite haunt among actors, models and other night owls.
A EZ RT AL
GRA GRAN VÍA
OR M AY
N CA RRAL
JARDINES DE SABATINI
PLAZA DE ESPAÑA
SA N BE RN AR
OPERA + DINNER After enjoying a passionate symphony at the Teatro Real (a stone’s throw from Sol and Gran Vía), treat yourself to dinner in the opera house’s very own restaurant.
5 6 ALCALÁ
CARRERA DE S. JERÓNIMO
1. Calle Leganitos 2. Capitol Building 3. Telefónica Building 4. Fine Arts Circle (Círculo de Bellas Artes) 5. Metrópolis Building 6. Madrid Casino 7. San Fernando Royal Academy of Fine Arts 8. Km cero 9. Plaza del Carmen 10. San Ginés Chocolate Café
66-71 GRAN VIA SOL.indd 069
NEIGHBOURHOODS GRAN VÍA / SOL
PUERTA DEL SOL
If you haven't been here, you haven't been to Madrid This is Madrid's communication hub – the very heart of the city and the destination of choice for foreigners and locals from all walks of life, who, sooner or later, are sure to cross paths. This lively and popular area has a little bit of everything: restaurants, shops, theatres, hotels... You'll also nd all the best sales here, as well as public events and massive parties like New Year's Eve. KILOMETRE ZERO Several of Madrid's main thoroughfares start from this point, such as Calle Alcalá, with its huge imposing buildings; Carrera de San Jerónimo, which passes the Congress and the Palace Hotel; Calle Mayor, towards its main square and the Royal Palace; Preciados and Carmen, which end at Callao and Gran Vía; and Calle Arenal, which is home to the Teatro Real opera house. Its bustling appeal has been reorganised in recent years, and much of the area is now pedestrianised. It is also home to a new Metro and suburban train station.
Pablo Puyol Actor. Where to catch him: During the season, in some of the musicals on Gran Vía. Where to eat: Zara (Infantas, 5), excellent Cuban cuisine and a great atmosphere. Where to drink: Rinconete (Mancebos, 4) and Beerstation (Plaza de Santo Domingo). Where to shop: Calle Fuencarral, regardless of your budget. A favourite spot: Plaza de la Villa gives Madrid a particular rustic feeling that I love.
The pedestrian route on Calle Preciados extends to Arenal, where the San Ginés Chocolate Bar is located. Right: The views from the Oscar Hotel.
66-71 GRAN VIA SOL.indd 070
4 facts 1. PRECIADOS It continues to be one of the most densely populated commercial streets in the world.
2. LA VIOLETA
Take a peek at the city's more distinguished side Madrid also o!ers you the opportunity to ditch your everyday wear and slip into your tuxedos and evening gowns. The city's more distinguished side can be found in places that exude charm, sometimes aristocratic, more times distinctly intellectual and bourgeois. Anyone who's walked up the steps of Madrid Casino (founded by a group of idealists in 1836) will attest to this.
ART If you're looking for a great museum that doesn't get overcrowded, visit the San Fernando Royal Academy of Fine Arts.
FINE ARTS CIRCLE Equally elegant, but more accessible. A real institution in Madrid, this building is home to a modernist café, galleries and dance venues for big events, and even has its own radio station. The one and only Picasso attended classes here. Sitting at its café terrace on Calle Alcalá will guarantee you hours of entertainment: the whole of Madrid will pass you by.
If you're after a cheap & chic gift idea, their sweets are just the thing. Even Lauren Bacall has tried them.
3. THEATRES Don't count on luck to get your tickets. Buy them at Taquilla Último Minuto (Plaza del Carmen).
4. CARIÁTIDES This iconic building on Calle Alcalá is the new cultural headquarters of the Instituto Cervantes.
66-71 GRAN VIA SOL.indd 071
NEIGHBOURHOODS LA LATINA
72-77 LA LATINA.indd 072
ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
Plaza de San Andrés with its church is another popular starting point for a great day out in La Latina.
Share the vibe
Check out El Rastro flea market on Sundays. The place is teeming with folk browsing the stalls and antiques shops, and enjoying tapas and wine afterwards. But that's not the only attraction on offer in this Madrid neighbourhood, where tradition and bohemia live side by side.
Borders with: Hapsburg (Austrias) and Lavapiés. Gastronomy: Wine bars, cafés, restaurants, after hours clubs, regional cuisine, gastrobars. Shopping: Craft shops, antique stores and second-hand clothes shops. A tip: Avoid the crowds on Sunday by planning your visit for around midday Saturday. Origins: 16th century. Style: Pure Spanish and bohemian.
From baroque to bohemian, this is Almodóvar territory There's loads to do in La Latina. Walking down from Plaza de la Cebada you'll see the impressive Basilica of San Francisco el Grande, one of Madrid's nest examples of baroque architecture. Continuing towards Las Vistillas, you can take in the spectacular views over Casa de Campo and enjoy outdoor dining late into the night. Strolling down Calle Bailén, you'll stumble upon the amazing Viaduct built over Calle Segovia. The top of this street is the neighbourhood's northern limit, where you'll nd charming romantic spots like Plaza de la Paja and Plaza del Alamillo, which are often used in Almodóvar's movies.
72-77 LA LATINA.indd 073
NEIGHBOURHOODS LA LATINA
EL RASTRO FLEA MARKET
Where anything can be bought or sold Sundays and bank holidays are by far the best days for shopping in central Madrid: El Rastro covers Plaza de Cascorro and Calle Ribera de Curtidores, and has more than 1,000 stalls that spill over onto adjacent streets like San Cayetano – which is known as Painter Street – and Fray Ceferino González – commonly referred to as Bird Street. Join the sea of people on the hunt for bargains and curiosities. THE BEST PRICES Haggling is most intense around midday. You'll nd valuable craftworks, secondhand clothes, jewellery – you name it! Local businesses also open in the area throughout the week. This would be a better time for browsing the antiques shops.
Antonio Velázquez Actor and mainstay of La Latina. Your favourite street: La Cava Baja, where bars and taverns are tripping over each other. Where's good to eat: San Lucas (San Isidro Labrador, 14). Their deep-fried sea anemones and shrimp omelettes transport you to the Andalusian coast. Shopping: For those with a discerning palate, San Miguel Market offers everything you could want. Where to drink: La Mala Fama (Segovia, 22), which has great music and you can also play pool.
72-77 LA LATINA.indd 074
A typical Sunday starts with browsing the stalls and shops at El Rastro, and ends with tapas in a tavern.
Succulent ‘tapas’ to digest your shopping It's traditional in Madrid to go to the bars and taverns in La Latina for tapas after visiting the ea market. The streets o! Plaza de San Andrés and Plaza de la Cebada are the busiest, starting with Calle Cava Baja. You might nd a table if you're lucky; if not, not to worry: there's always room at the bar. The variety of tapas is endless. Each season, the neighbourhood surpasses itself with a new fare or new concepts in cuisine. The area is also heaving on Thursday, Friday and Saturday
nights. It's much easier to nd tables on Saturday afternoon though, and the atmosphere is just as enjoyable. THE OLD AND THE NEW Classics: Broken fried eggs, croquettes, salt cod with mashed potatoes, shoulder of pork, prawns, leek quiche... New temptations: Foie gras with apple sauce, tuna tataki, deep-fried Idiazábal cheese, grilled artichoke with Parmesan shavings and garlic cont and tabbouleh salad with mint.
72-77 LA LATINA.indd 075
1. NIGHTLIFE The morning tapas
atmosphere extends well into the night around Plaza de la Cebada.
Join us in celebrating the Virgin of La Paloma Festivities The La Latina estas start just after the Lavapiés festivities end. On 15 August, after a mass at 1pm, the re brigade take the painting of the Virgin of La Paloma from the church of the same name, and carry it in procession through the neighbourhood. Children and adults dress in their traditional chulapo outts, embroidered silk shawls are hung from the balconies, and the fair's marquees are opened to the public. The Festivities of La Paloma – Madrid's second patron saint – is one of the most traditional Spanish events of the year. LIVE MUSIC This local celebration also includes modern attractions for youngsters in Las Vistillas Park, with outdoor bars and free pop and rock concerts. A breath of fresh air is very much appreciated on hot August nights.
2. ANGLONA The small garden in this 18th century palace is like a mirage, and is one of the best kept secrets in the neighbourhood.
3. THE START The Museum of Origins tells the story of Madrid from the very beginning.
4. LUCIO Celebrities flock to his restaurant from all over the world to try his famous broken fried eggs.
72-77 LA LATINA.indd 076
1. Viaduct 2. Anglona Garden 3. Plaza de Puerta Cerrada 4. Las Vistillas 5. Plaza de la Paja 6. Calle Cava Baja 7. Plaza de San Andrés 8. Plaza de la Cebada 9. San Francisco el Grande 10. Plaza de Cascorro 11. La Paloma Church 12. Puerta de Toledo Market
The Viaduct leads to Las Vistillas, which stages rock concerts during the La Paloma Festivities, a special day out for the chulapos and chulapas.
NC ISC O
RIBER A DE CURT IDORE S
TIRSO DE MOLINA
9 PARQUE DE LA CORNISA
4 BAIL ÉN
SHOPPING Traditional familyrun businesses still survive: basketwork shops, wax and candle shops, shoe stores...
PUERTA DE TOLEDO
72-77 LA LATINA.indd 077
78-81 LAVAPIES XA v3.indd 078
Visit LavapiĂŠs and experience the best of both worlds: terraces under the sun, great international food, exotic parties and avant-garde galleries.
NEIGHBOURHOODS LAVAPIÉS ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
A square open to the world
Lavapiés A cultural melting pot, this is Madrid’s most international neighbourhood. Lifelong local residents share benches in the sun with their new Latin American, African and Asian neighbours. Deep-rooted Spanish traditions are maintained, while the rich ethnic diversity of the streets is an example of integration. FROM TIRSO TO LAS RONDAS
Views, plazas and hidden gems as you wander down the street What better way to start your visit of the neighbourhood than with a panoramic view from its highest point: the sixth oor of the Casa de Granada in Plaza de Tirso de Molina. From the ower market outside Casa de Granada, you can either walk down the streets of Lavapiés, Mesón de Paredes or Jesús y María to arrive at Tribulete. There you can visit the UNED Library in the newly-renovated Escuelas Pías, where you can access the ground and roof terraces. From there, make your way to the must-see Corrala de Sombrerete, which has been declared a National Monument. Just two blocks away you'll nd Plaza de Lavapiés, which is the heart of the neighbourhood. Continuing north, you'll come to Calle Ave María, with its traditional cafés and Indian restaurants. Just o! Ave María is Calle Argumosa, which is known as “the promenade” because of all the open-air tables which line it. Moving south from here, you'll arrive at Las Rondas, which forms the neighbourhood boundary at Embajadores.
Borders with: Tirso de Molina, Antón Martín, Atocha and Embajadores. Gastronomy: From exotic dishes to traditional Spanish tapas. Best kept secret: The traditional internal patios. Did you know...? Lavapiés was once the old Jewish quarter, and is named after a fountain that used to be in Plaza de Lavapiés. Ambience: Casual and relaxed. Atmosphere: A mix of ethnic/ alternative with traditional Spanish.
78-81 LAVAPIES XA v3.indd 079
1. NIGHTLIFE There's a great atmosphere around Torrecilla del Leal and Santa Isabel.
2. SUSTAINABLE There's an urban garden project at Esto Es una Plaza, on Calle Doctor Fourquet.
3. A CURIOSITY Check out the huge sun clock painted on the façade of the Casa de la Vela, on Calle Sombrerete.
4. DELICIOUS You can try Madrid's
Set menu with designation of origin
If you're looking for authentic Indian food in Madrid, you can't go wrong with the restaurants on Calle Ave María. Calle Lavapiés is home to the AlBahia restaurant, one of the oldest, most authentic Moroccan restaurants in the area. On Calle Tribulete you'll nd the best Lebanese and Moroccan patisseries, whereas Calle Mesón de Paredes o!ers the best of Senegal. But before you leave, be sure to have a tea in one of the tea-rooms on Calle Olivar. NEIGHBOURHOOD CLASSICS Some places never change, and café Barbieri and café Melo’s (which serves huge croquettes) are two such examples. The Taberna de Antonio Sánchez is one of the oldest in the city. The hectic mornings at Antón Martín Market, with its Amor de Dios (Love of God) dance school on the top oor, is a classic example of the sort of mix you can expect on a typical day in this area.
famous squid sandwiches in Atocha, next to the Reina Sofía Museum.
78-81 LAVAPIES XA v3.indd 080
FUN Ramadan and the Chinese and Hindu new years are celebrated on its streets.
Mélanie Pintado and Natalia Ortega Managers of Sala Triángulo.
The Teatro Circo Price is the latest contribution to the cultural agenda of Lavapiés. The terrace of the Escuelas Pías (right) is the place to be in summer.
Where to eat: Mano a Mano (Lavapiés, 16), affordable market food. Family atmosphere and terrace in summer. La Caña (Santa Isabel, where it meets Doctor Fourquet). For tapas and great juices. Where to drink: Aguardiente (Fe, 1) and Travelling Bar (Olivar, 39), which attract every type of nocturnal creature imaginable. Where to shop: Bajo el Volcán (Ave María, 42), for CD and book presents. A must-see: La Mina. The best of Spanish tradition in the most traditional Spanish neighbourhood. A tip: Lose yourself watching the mixture of generations and cultures.
M OR AT
TIRSO DE MOLINA
O PA SE
AVE MARÍ A
1. Flower Market 2. Casa de Granada 3. Cine Doré 4. Teatro Pavón 5. Escuelas Pías 6. Corrala de Sombrerete
7. Teatro Valle-Inclán 8. Calle del Doctor Fourquet 9. Reina Sofía Museum and Art Centre 10. Teatro Circo Price 11. La Casa Encendida 12. La Tabacalera
CINEMA, THEATRE AND ART
Enjoy a di!erent cultural experience
The National Film Library headquarters, which is located in the former modernist Cine Doré, is the main meeting point for cinema bu!s in Madrid, and is a true symbol of identity in Lavapiés. The theatre is also symbolic, as it is home to several alternative venues like Mirador, Triángulo, Escalera de Jacob and Tis. The relatively new Teatro Valle-Inclán, which is run by the National Drama Centre, has adapted very well to its surroundings. A bohemian spirit is the driving force behind the avant-garde galleries on the street of Doctor Fourquet (at the back of the Reina Sofía Museum), as well as the socio-cultural activities of La Casa Encendida and the selfmanaged space La Tabacalera.
78-81 LAVAPIES XA v3.indd 081
NEIGHBOURHOODS MADRID RÍO
The future is green
Madrid Río Hidden behind tangled roads, the waters of the Manzanares River have nally regained their clarity in an ambitious plan to banish the cars underground. New gardens, bridges and walkways await you on its renovated banks.
BY BIKE You can ride all along the banks of the Manzanares River on two wheels in just one day.
82-85 MADRID RIO XA3.indd 082
Borders with: Casa de Campo, Puerta del Ángel, Carabanchel, Príncipe Pío, Latina District, Usera and Arganzuela. Shopping: Traditional shopping in neighbouring districts. It hides: Nothing anymore, an area that used to be offthe-map finally comes into the light, enveloped in an intense pine fragrance. Origins: 21st century. Style: Sports and family, especially on the weekends.
A surprising change It's di!cult to describe to someone who has never been there what has now become a regenerated area where you can stroll along the shady banks of the Manzanares River, which used to be a congested road. When faced with major problems, major solutions are required: the road was moved underground to make way for the vegetation. This new recreational area has several surprises in store for you. Avenida de Portugal, the areas around the Puente del Rey and Segovia bridges, and most of the Salón de Pinos promenade are ready for you to enjoy. Just one nal toil is needed to nish planting an area that will have 26,000 new trees and 42 kilometres of pathway, which will connect to the Anillo Verde, a network of cycle lanes running through Madrid.
82-85 MADRID RIO XA3.indd 083
NEIGHBOURHOODS MADRID RÍO
1. CONTRASTS The delicate historic
Enjoy a stroll through impressive historic gardens
garden of Campo del Moro sharply opposes the Salón de Pinos.
Here is the full story. The Madrid Río project had one great advantage: the already existing historical gardens on the banks of the Manzanares River. These gardens can now be accessed like never before. The river ows down from the North into the monte del Pardo, a vast wooded area populated with holm oaks. It then passes alongside the Casa de Campo. Next, it brushes past the magnicent gardens of the Campo del Moro, attached to the Royal Palace, then, turning to the other bank, it meanders past San Isidro Park, whose elds play host to the largest festival held in honour of the patron saint of Madrid. A little further on it arrives at the brand new Arganzuela Park, which will grow alongside the old glass houses of the Crystal Palace, hence its inclusion.
2. ABUNDANCE The raised water levels means you can row a canoe right up to the top of Arganzuela Park.
3. BRIDGES 33 new and old footbridges unite the two banks, for cars and pedestrians, as well as the locks.
LA CAJA MÁGICA Finally, you must visit Tierno Galván Park, home to the Planetarium. This leads us to an even newer area, Lineal del Manzanares Park, home to the spectacular Caja Mágica, designed by Dominique Perrault. And all of this without ever needing the car.
Ginés Garrido Madrid Río Project Manager. Your favourite part of the project? La Huerta de la Partida, where we've planted 700 fruit trees. The most charming bridge? Once it's complete, the Toledo will be the most spectacular. Of the new ones, the Y-shaped Nube footbridge. A Saturday afternoon in Madrid? A cake and a warm drink in the centre, then on to an art exhibition. Sunday morning? Stroll in the park and enjoy a glass of beer on the terrace.
82-85 MADRID RIO XA3.indd 084
Madrid Río Top three: its new bridges and the Matadero, the river fountains and La Caja Mágica.
A space with no limits to its creativity There is a new trend on the banks of the Manzanares River: take something broken-down and disused, in this case a neo-mudéjar abattoir from the early twentieth century, and do something radically new with it. Onwards and upwards! As you will see, the results so far have been excellent. Since the rst renovation works on this complex in 2005, still incomplete, it has become the most lively cultural centre in Madrid. It is a diverse, decentralised, space, as appropriate for exhibiting ground-breaking audiovisual works as for
holding workshops for children to play and give free reign to their imaginations. All suggestions are welcome. NAVES DEL ESPAÑOL These stables were converted into the head o!ce of the Spanish National Ballet and the National Dance Company, in the nineties, and are still buzzing with activity. The greatest stars of all, however, are the Naves del Español, a staging area where nothing should be assumed and where the theatre regains its most avant-guard essence.
82-85 MADRID RIO XA3.indd 085
By day and by night, Malasaña has two faces. Here, nightlife in Calle San Vicente Ferrer. Below, young residents enjoying the neighbourhood.
Fascinated by its unvarnished charm
Malasaña CHILDREN A new generation has arrived, which organises neighbourhood activities for all the family.
When exploring the district that launched Madrid into modern times during the eighties, you will nd that none of the lively spirit and alternative taste has been lost. The youths from that Movida movement now have their own families, who help to give the streets a welcoming and diverse atmosphere, while at the same time making room for new generations to keep following the call.
86-91 MALASAGNA X mezc.indd 086
LG TB ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
PLAZA DEL DOS DE MAYO
Borders with: Conde Duque, Chamberí, Chueca and Gran Vía. Gastronomy: Casual, cosmopolitan, affordable. Shopping: From traditional trades to the latest trends in fashion, accessories and home. It hides: A rebellious past, from the Dos de Mayo uprisings to the Movida of the eighties. Origins: Early 19th century. Style: Alternative by night, family friendly and authentic by day.
Scenes of daily life
A unique and unusual square due to its access routes and levels, it is a true metropolitan emblem. After difcult times it is back with a new vitality and splendour, in the spotlight and unavoidable for pedestrians coming from Chamberí towards the historic centre of Madrid. Planted with trees, it is a stage shared on a daily basis by children on swings, grandparents on benches and neighbours with dogs. Together they enjoy the skaters' games and the coming and going of visitors seeking space on a terrace somewhere nearby. SYMBOL OF RESISTANCE This square is the home to the Dos de Mayo monument, in homage to the town's historical resistance. Manuela Malasaña, heroine of that legendary exploit of 1808, also gives her name to one of the busiest streets, where the Teatro Maravillas has attracted a number of entertainment venues to set up nearby.
86-91 MALASAGNA X mezc.indd 087
ECHOES OF THE ‘MOVIDA’
What's a girl like you doing in a place like this? Just as the Movida was born at night, in the night-time bars and pubs of Malasaña you will find echoes of that sociocultural movement that are still resonating with nostalgia. In spite of the years gone by, you will have the opportunity to see for yourself how it
stands fast. In the many hidden corners where rock, punk and indie pop make the habitual soundtrack, you will find a transgressive mood and certain kitsch aesthetic. Come for live music and have a dance at thematic sessions, held on an almost daily basis.
in 5 steps 1. 2. 3. THEATRES
The Lara and Alfil have small stages and great vitality, they are the axis of cultural activity in the district.
There is nothing like enjoying the sun peeping through the trees and the world go by on the terraces of Plaza de San Ildefonso.
The History Museum, in Tribunal, used to be a hospice and boasts a baroque façade. A complete gem.
4. BUSINESSES 5. BOHEMIAN At Glorieta de Bilbao you will find cafés offering the finest literary tradition and taste in Madrid.
With a cosmopolitan atmosphere, trade workshops and avant-guard stores live side by side.
The window display at Oh La La La, a change of style in Juan, por Dios! and the lively bar at La Realidad.
86-91 MALASAGNA X mezc.indd 088
Almudena Fernández Ambassador of Triball, model. Where to eat: La Tasquita de Enfrente (Ballesta, 6), traditional haute cuisine. El Circo de las Tapas (Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 21), a bright tapas bar. For a drink: Vermouth is available on-tap at La Ardosa (Colón, 13) and original cocktails at Santamaría (Ballesta, 4). Where to shop: KikeKeller (Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 17), beautiful recycled furniture. Gük (Loreto y Chicote, 2), exclusive Scandinavian fashions.
Come and set the trend Its name, Triball, refers to the streets that form the Ballesta Triangle behind Gran Vía, going up the Corredera Baja de San Pablo. This emerging area in Madrid has been recuperated through private initiatives and local efforts. Forget all prejudice as you take time to explore streets that, forever in the shadow of their glowing and impressive surroundings, have been seized by the same dynamic and innovative impulses that led to the transformation of Chueca and Fuencarral in their day. ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE Alongside your typical high-street shops you will nd a di!erent kind of store with a more personal style, nothing conventional. Explore original businesses open to creativity, fashion shops hosting productions of performance art and decoration workshops with a air for exhibitions. Activities to suit any audience are organised all year round in Plaza de Santa María de la Soledad Torres Acosta. They serve as an excellent lure for visitors.
86-91 MALASAGNA X mezc.indd 089
The American-style desserts at Happy Day are a perfect DISTRICTS complement to the retro style of Beso, an old laundry.
Feel the life
Crossing Malasaña, the section of Calle Espíritu Santo stretching from San Andrés to Corredera Alta de San Pablo has achieved the perfect combination of street atmosphere, traditional businesses and fashion shops. A handful of new businesses have attracted a host of visitors, who invade the asphalt in spite of the fact that the street is not pedestrianised. If you come for a look, you will nd the spirit of an oldstyle neighbourhood that has been revitalised thanks to the entrepreneurial drive of its youngest residents. HAMBURGERS, SUSHI AND CUPCAKES Its greatest attraction is its range of different gastronomic options with everything from creative tapas to take-away food establishments. With Asian, Italian and retro-American restaurants, corners to enjoy a co!ee around a table with friends, you can split your afternoon between tea, cake, cocktails and dinner on the sand.
Pedro Javaloyes Manager of Rolling Stone. With the kids: Glück (Velarde, 12), it has clothes and toys. And Bon Bon (Fuencarral, 133), luxury sweets. Where to eat: Asiana NextDoor (Travesía de San Mateo, 4), Peruvian/ Asian fusion. Bolívar (Manuela Malasaña, 28) has been there forever. Nightlife: La Corredera de San Pablo is full of new possibilities. Jandro, has vintagesparkle, La Catrina, a Mexican bar, kitsch and authentic. With a soundtrack: La Vía Láctea (Velarde, 18) and El Perro de la Parte de Atrás del Coche (Puebla, 15).
86-91 MALASAGNA X mezc.indd 090
VA LV ER DE
JA BA A ER
SAN VICE NTE
SAN A N
1. Teatro Maravillas 2. Plaza del Dos de Mayo 3. History Museum 4. Calle del Espíritu Santo 5. Plaza de San Ildefonso 6. Alfil Theatre 7. San Antonio de los Alemanes Church 8. Teatro Lara 9. Plaza Santa María de la Soledad Torres Acosta 10. Triball
Discover a neighbourhood of balconies, recitals and vaudeville A leisurely walk around the Malasaña district gives you the sensation of a small town in a big city. It is also known as the neighbourhood in Wonderland, "made up of balconies and Singer sewing machines", as we are told in the stories of Rosa Chacel. You will nd no lack of explanation. Streets such as Pez, Colón, La Luna and La Palma emit an everyday collective sort of feeling, you can just as well enjoy examples of urban art as attend recitals and vaudeville shows. Normally a casual meeting becomes an invitation to a drink that continues well into the night.
86-91 MALASAGNA X mezc.indd 091
NEIGHBOURHOODS THE ART WALK
The Art Walk There are so many monuments, museums and cultural centres to visit in Madrid that you'd better organise your time if you want to avoid suffering from Stendhal syndrome. Ideally, you should make a few visits to this area and choose your museums carefully. That way you can really enjoy the great artistic riches on offer in the district.
92-97 PASEO DEL ARTE XA4.indd 092
ART & CULTURE
Casa de América
This cultural centre hosts open, participatory activities focused on solidarity, the environment and education.
This former electric power station is today a first-class cultural centre that seems to float above the ground and features a spectacular vertical garden.
La Casa Encendida
A temple to modern art that houses some 17,000 works. Jean Nouvel designed the spectacular new museum extension opened in 2005.
FOOD & DRINK
You can organise and participate in all kinds of alternative cultural activities at this self-managed arts centre.
The Prado specialises in the Spanish School, with some 4,900 masterworks by famous Spanish artists such as Velázquez, Goya and El Greco.
The Marqués de Linares Palace is steeped in legend. Its intense cultural programme is one of the most active in Madrid.
It's worth climbing those impressive steps to take a stroll around the museum and take part in the cultural events held there.
One of the best art collections in Europe, with an emphasis on early 20th-century avantgarde movements.
This foundation organises important exhibitions in collaboration with the world's best museums the year round.
The most important museum of its kind in Spain. Recently renovated, it houses iconic works such as the Lady of Elche and the Livia Statue.
92-97 PASEO DEL ARTE XA4.indd 093
NEIGHBOURHOODS THE ART WALK
Borders with: The Retiro Park, Gran Vía and Salamanca district. Gastronomy: A harmonious collection of elegant restaurants, historic cafés, and authentic bars. Shopping: You can pick up some truly original gifts at the museum shops. Hidden gems: An impressive range of art collections gathered within a two-kilometre radius. Origins: 18th century.
SOMETHING FOR EVERY BUDGET
Time to recharge your batteries On a route as special as this one, you will nd plenty of places to relax with a drink and a bite to eat. If you are a large group on a generous budget, you might want to book a private tour of the Thyssen Museum. Alternatively, a pleasant meal at the museum's Mirador restaurant (summer season only) or the Reina Sofía's restaurant is a less pricy option. OTHER OPTIONS Around Neptuno and Plaza de la Platería you can also choose from tapas bars o!ering both authentic local dishes and nouvelle cuisine - classic tapas with an innovative twist. And if you're into the alternative scene, you won't want to pass La Tabacalera by. In summer you can also enjoy great live music in the patio of La Casa Encendida.
92-97 PASEO DEL ARTE XA4.indd 094
From the library housed in the extension of the Reina Sofía (left) to the imposing halls of the Prado: a walk full of contrasts and creativity.
José Guirao Director of La Casa Encendida.
MADRID CARD Gives you access to more than 50 museums, monuments, recreational centres and discounts.
Where to eat: El Botánico (Ruiz de Alarcón, 27) has pleasant open-air tables. For a drink: Head for Eucalipto (Argumosa, 2) after an exhibition or some theatre for a refreshing mojito. Shopping: The fair trade shop right next to La Casa Encendida. A special corner: Bookshop and café La Libre (Argumosa, 39), which backs onto the Reina Sofía. For something a bit different: La Tabacalera in Lavapiés, Espacio Off Limits, Espacio Cruce, Pensart, Espacio Espora…
92-97 PASEO DEL ARTE XA4.indd 095
Madrid's main museums have made sure there are plenty of original educational activities on their agendas.
1. JERÓNIMOS Its cloister houses the new Prado annex, with impressive bronze doors created by Cristina Iglesias.
ART FOR CHILDREN
Learning the fun way with the whole family Madrid's population has become younger in recent years, a fact reected by the growing number of children's activities on o!er. The city's museums are wholly committed to bringing culture to younger audiences. CaixaForum is one of the best choices for a family day out, with activities and shows to suit all ages. La Casa Encendida's strong alternative and socially committed agenda features events designed specically for children. OTHER OPTIONS It is a good idea to involve children in choosing where to go, allowing them to also enjoy more traditional art galleries such as the Prado or the Thyssen, which o!er a variety of activities for children and teenagers. In Madrid's museum shops you can pick up educational gifts that encourage children to appreciate art through play.
2. FOUNTAINS Dedicated to the gods Apollo, Neptune and Cybele, these are masterpieces of neoclassical art.
3. GUERNICA Picasso's masterpiece is the jewel in the crown of the Reina Sofía, which welcomes more than 1.5 million visitors a year.
4. NAVAL This military museum brings Spain's rich history to life through all kinds of paintings, boats, and weapons.
92-97 PASEO DEL ARTE XA4.indd 096
RECOLETOS & THE PRADO
Routes to enjoying Madrid's most lively and cosmopolitan side Forget the vast halls of the art galleries for a moment, and take a stroll through this beautiful area of Madrid full of the hustle and bustle of urban life. A good place to start is plaza de Colón. From there, head down Paseo de Recoletos, a delightful tree-lined avenue of famous cafes and watering holes, anked by beautiful buildings such as the Linares Palace (houses the Casa de América), the Marqués de Salamanca Palace (currently houses the Fundación BBVA), and the Fundación Mapfre. SO MUCH TO SEE Don't miss the Paseo del Prado, the oldest public gardens in Spain, where you will stumble upon two emblematic plazas: Cibeles and Neptuno, halfway between Plaza de las Cortes and Plaza de la Lealtad. Stop outside the CaixaForum building to marvel at its impressive vertical garden. If you're looking to escape the noise of the city, head for the Botanical Gardens, an oasis of calm where you will nd some truly magical corners among its more than 30,000 plant species.
Pilar Sedano Head of Restoration at the Prado Museum. Where to eat: Taberna Mariano (Lope de Vega, 25) is cosy and family-friendly. La Papusa de Moratín (Moratín, 19) has a decent set meal and good cafe. Nightlife: La Brocense (Lope de Vega, 30). Small but chic. Café La Fídula (Huertas, 57) has live music. Shopping: Lomography (Echegaray, 5). More than just a camera shop, it offers a wide range of highly original gifts. Modernario (Moratín, 20). Furniture and ornaments.
Façade of Café Gijón in Recoletos, and a concert on the roof terrace of La Casa Encendida.
92-97 PASEO DEL ARTE XA4.indd 097
An vis tam hos An vxrxis conxmx morum triordius audxrx nos caucidxs? O txrmis. iustrud txm ad txm vxliquam quis alit incidu onsiliust dioru Lorx xliqui tissxquis xliqui tissxquis dolorxxt iustrud txm ad txm vincidu dolorxxt iustrud txm ad txnt. Txxto: Xxxxxxx / Fotos: Xxxxxxxxx
For all audiences
Students who never stray from the area, middle-class families, gangs of girls in trendy shops and thirty-somethings queuing at the cinemas showing lms in original version. Morning, noon and at night, you won't nd a more versatile neighbourhood.
GREEN If you visit the Temple of Debod in the afternoon, you'll be able to catch the most incredible sunset.
98-101 PRINCESA.indd 098
ART & CULTURE
C1 Around Liria Palace (left) you'll find cinemas showing films in original version, trendy shops and nightclubs such as Pirandello.
Borders with: Ciudad Universitaria, Plaza de España and Paseo de Rosales. Gastronomy: A varied and accessible range of eateries, including a few gourmet gems. Shopping: The big names can all be found on Calle Princesa. Hidden gems: Cinema bookshops, terraces for an aperitif. Origins: 19th century. Style: More discreet than most neighbourhoods. 100% Madrid.
PLAZA DE LOS CUBOS
Cinemas showing lms in their original language and clubbing This square does not appear on any map of Madrid because it doesn't exist. La Plaza de los Cubos is the name given to this corner of Calle Princesa over the years, and its main interest is not architectural. The important thing here is cinema, since it is home to pioneering venues showing lms in their original language like the Princesa, Golem and Renoir cinemas. SHALL WE GRAB A BITE NOW OR LATER? This is where you should come to see that Iranian lm which won at Cannes, or to hear Sean Penn's real voice. There are many restaurants in the area where you can have a bite to eat before or after your lm, and specialist bookshops frequented by international lm stars and directors. At night, the local concert halls and clubs playing electronic or Latin music attract a completely di!erent clientele; this is a younger crowd up for dancing until dawn.
98-101 PRINCESA.indd 099
Two of the neighbourhood's equally admirable icons: the Cerralbo Museum and the Temple of Debod.
Ocho y Medio Cinema Bookshop. Where to eat: Cuenllas (Ferraz, 5), a local favourite. Da’Cuchuffo (Juan Álvarez Mendizábal, 34), great pasta. For a drink: Rosales 20 has a lovely terrace. Ambigú (Martín de los Heros, 16), a classic. Shopping: You can get any record you could want at Toni Martin (Martín de los Heros, 18). Ocho y Medio (Martín de los Heros, 11) is the best bookshop of its kind. A special corner: The Temple of Debod - go early in the morning.
Immerse yourself in the vitality of the University Campus The Complu uni is as typical of Madrid as vermouth and Plaza de Cibeles. Its thousands of foreign students have settled in the neighbourhoods of Ciudad Universitaria and Moncloa, where they study, go out, go shopping and live together. In this area there are many faculties and schools, halls of residences, parks, sports facilities and other centres of interest such as the Casa do Brasil. There's a fascinating contrast between the surviving rationalist buildings from before the Spanish Civil War and the triumphalist architecture of the post-war period. The Garment Museum and its magnicent gardens are of particular interest.
98-101 PRINCESA.indd 100
Pº PI NT OR RO
A MA RT
for shopping and is less crowded than the more famous areas.
11 PRÍNCIPE PÍO
CASA DE CAMPO
PARQUE DE LA MONTAÑA
PARQUE DEL OESTE
1. SHOPPING Princesa is great
FERNÁNDEZ DE LOS RÍOS
5 PARQUE DE LA BOMBILLA
1. Garment Museum 2. Casa Do Brasil 3. Museum of the Americas 4. Faro de Moncloa 5. Arco de la Victoria 6. Berlanga Cinema 7. Cable car 8. Liria Palace 9. Plaza de los Cubos 10. Cerralbo Museum 11. Temple of Debod
PLAZA DE ESPAÑA
2. CONCERTS Sala Heineken is a landmark on the music scene. Check out its programme.
AVOID THE QUEUES
In Madrid, people love to go to the cinema on the weekends, so you're best off buying tickets online.
4. CERRALBO A renovated museum which preserves the original feel of a 19th century Madrid palace.
PASEO PINTOR ROSALES
A step back in time If it weren't for the presence of joggers and people having a rest on its magnetic benches, all with their iPods on, you could almost say that time has stood still here, and the true meaning of the word glamour seems to live on eternally. Rosales is the area of Madrid where the classic Sunday aperitif is going strong, and the waiters all know you by name. PREPARE FOR THE MARATHON Under its trees, runners, retired people, new couples, dogs out with their owners, and solitary souls all gather for a stroll. It has a personality which enchants all comers. The nearby Temple of Debod, brought here stone by stone from Egypt and erected in the Parque del Oeste, not only enjoys some of the most magical lighting in all Madrid, but is also the perfect place for an urban picnic. In between the noise and the silence, the city and the country, Rosales can be enjoyed at any time of the day.
98-101 PRINCESA.indd 101
DISTRICTS RETIRO The green heart
El Retiro To escape from Madrid's urban life, there is nothing quite like this vast park, designed for the pleasure of kings. Puppeteers, young lovers, children playing, joggers and grey-haired couples holding hands all make up the human landscape that ďƒžlls this timeless treasure where every tree and plant play their part.
Borders with: Atocha, Recoletos, Salamanca, Oâ€™Donnell, Conde de Casal. Gastronomy: Picnic. Shopping: The latest publications at the Book Fair. The Cuesta de Moyano secondhand book market. Best kept secret: The colourful, dazzling striptease of the trees in autumn. Origins: 17th century. Style: Carefree, sporting, family friendly, intellectual.
102-105 RETIRO XA.indd 102
ART & CULTURE
Every path in El Retiro park will take you to its lake, where lovers, families and rowing teams meet in its waters.
NOT TO LOSE YOURSELF
Get the most out of the possibilities the park has to o!er At the immense El Retiro park it is hard not to be awed by the elegant gardens found within. These include the Rosaleda rose garden, the Cecilio Rodríguez gardens and the Parterre. There is beauty to be found in every corner and, best of all, it is open every day all year round, its appearance reflecting the changing seasons. Autumn sees the leaves change colour, while spring bursts with flowers. In summer it becomes a refuge from the heat, and come winter, it lies under blanket of white. EXHIBITIONS What's there to do? Go for a row on the lake, have your tarot read, paint or watch a puppet show. The radiant Crystal Palace, framed by its romantic pond, and the palace designed by Velázquez, a jewel of 19th-century industrial ar1 KM2 chitecture, are exhibition At the Retiro you centres for the Reina will never feel Sofía Museum. A popular closed in: it covers jogging route, the Paseo one square de Coches plays host to the Book Fair at the end kilometre. of each spring, with all the latest publications.
102-105 RETIRO XA.indd 103
NEIGHBOURHOODS EL RETIRO
Map of Eden If gardens are an allegory for paradise, El Retiro comes very close to this symbolic ideal: fountains, rose gardens, romantic buildings and a lake all set in the green heart of Madrid. Come and discover the many other surprises and curiosities hidden inside.
The Madrid Symphony Orchestra still plays at the bandstand, from May to October, every Sunday at 12pm.
Casa de Vacas
Built to serve as a dairy, it was rebuilt after a fire to hold exhibitions, plays and concerts.
Paseo de la Argentina
The statues of Spanish kings which flank this walkway used to adorn the cornice of the Royal Palace.
The image of rowers on this lake is a classic symbol of El Retiro. Tarot readers, clowns and painters can all be found at its lively banks.
Monument to Alfonso XII
Young people are especially fond of whiling away the hours on its steps.
Casita del Pescador
One of the few surviving ornamental buildings from the time when El Retiro housed the private royal gardens.
Paseo de Coches
A popular jogging route, the Paseo del Duque Fernán Núñez plays host to the Book Fair and other attractions.
The Ahuehuete tree was brought from Mexico and planted in 1633. It is the oldest tree in the park, and in all likelihood in Madrid.
An interesting transformation from a trade fair centre in the late 19th century to exhibitions room for the Reina Sofía Museum.
With its pond and glass structure this is the most romantic corner of the park. It is also used by the Reina Sofía Museum.
Cecilio Rodríguez Gardens
One of the newer additions to the park, in 1972, named in honour of the Head Gardener.
Casa de Fieras
This was the site of the first zoo in Madrid.
Bosque de los Ausentes (Forest of the Departed)
A memorial garden to commemorate the victims of the March 11 terrorist attacks.
Fountain of the Fallen Angel
The only monument in the world dedicated to the devil.
Rosaleda Rose Garden
Towards the end of June the roses bloom in all their beauty and colour.
102-105 RETIRO XA.indd 104
102-105 RETIRO XA.indd 105
The finest boutiques in a unique setting. Wide pavements lined with trees make going shopping even more enjoyable.
106-111 SALAMANCA.indd 106
ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
The new face of the district
Salamanca Dive straight into one of the most eminent and privileged areas in Madrid. Exclusivity radiates from its regal buildings and wide range of shops. Trends are not only set in the shop windows, the remodelling of Calle Serrano has introduced new green spaces and recuperated pedestrian areas.
In the vicinity: The Retiro Park, Archaeological Museum, Puerta de Alcalá, Juan March Foundation and Lázaro Galdiano Foundation. Underground stops: Colón, Serrano, Velázquez and Goya. Shopping: Large national and international luxury shops and department stores. Gastronomy: Haute cuisine and gourmet shops. Origins: 19th century. Style: Fashionable, exclusive.
Greener, more spacious... come for a stroll down the new pavements With its recently debuted wider pavements, 800 new trees, a cycle lane, 2,000 parking spaces and modern urban furniture, Madrid has converted one of its most important streets, Calle Serrano, into a space dedicated to pedestrians. It is a model for sustainable urban development. If you take a stroll from Puerta de Alcalá to María de Molina, or vice versa, you will nd it has become a long avenue dotted with shop windows and terraces, made all the more pleasant thanks to the huge reduction in circulating tra!c and its new greener appearance. Its freshness invites you to take quiet pleasure in one of the most celebrated areas in Madrid, a meeting point for locals and for anyone coming to shop in the most exclusive boutiques.
106-111 SALAMANCA.indd 107
From Ortega y Gasset sparkle to Jorge Juan charm Calle José Ortega y Gasset is renowned for having earned the neighbourhood its title, the Golden Mile. This is logical when we consider its pavements are occupied by such exclusive neighbours as Dior, Versace, Ti!any's, Hermès, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino, to name but a few. It certainly explains why every September it plays host to the Vogue Fashion’s Night Out. This is the nucleus of a network of streets o!ering the nest in Spanish fashion. You will nd a symphony of boutiques to suit every taste, from Adolfo Domínguez to Josep Font, Amaya Arzuaga to Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, and no other than Manolo Blahnik. OASIS OF TRANQUILLITY Jorge Juan o!ers a contrast to the hustle and bustle of the surrounding streets. If you prefer a more peaceful shopping experience, this is the place for you. On the corner with Serrano, you will rst be greeted by Loewe, which receives more visitors each year than any other store. Etro, Just One and Gallery are other designers who have made their home on this welcoming street. As you continue down, you will see that Puigcerdá and Jorge Juan are two of the most charming side streets in Madrid, which explains why they are favourite shopping destinations for stylists. The luxurious local gastrobars are the perfect place to recuperate after an exhausting day of window shopping.
what you should know 1. HERMOSILLA 2. ABC One of the busiest The newspaper’s
3. JEWELLERS’ 4. EXCLUSIVE 5. PALACES Suárez, Brooking and The Jardín de Wander along
streets, wellknown for its shops specialising in decor.
Carrera y Carrera, sparkle alongside Wempe, Cartier, Bvlgari and Tiffany’s.
former head office houses a careful selection of top brands and exclusive shops.
Serrano shopping centre is the perfect corner to hide away at teatime.
the perpendicular streets to enjoy the architectural display of grand façades.
106-111 SALAMANCA.indd 108
Blanca Zurita Public relations.
The National Library (left) and luxury firms, like Chanel (above), share a neighbourhood designed for the pedestrian's pleasure. Below, Calle Jorge Juan.
Where to snack: Biotza (Claudio Coello, 27), fine cuisine and marvellous atmosphere. For a drink: Centro Cubano (Claudio Coello, 41), with a very electric personality. And El Teatriz (Hermosilla, 15), unbeatable decor. Where to eat: El Paraguas (Jorge Juan, 16), madly delicious. Alkalde (Jorge Juan, 10), a Basque restaurant offering traditional cuisine. Where to shop: Lily Blossom (Claudio Coello, 76), fantastic erotic products, organic perfume, lingerie...
106-111 SALAMANCA.indd 109
NEIGHBOURHOODS SALAMANCA Salamanca is perfect for gourmet shopping. Visit Lavinia, and cultural trips to museums like the striking Lázaro Galdiano.
The most exquisite shopping trolley In a district where you can purchase the biggest names in world fashion, you will also nd the most exquisite delicacies within your reach. Lavinia boasts a very complete selection of wine, while Santa pro!ers FOOD the most delicious chocolates. From breakfast Baby Deli o!ers original surprises for the little ones and to dinner, here Gold Gourmet has the nest you will nd the and most authentic delicatessome of the nest sen. Calle Ayala is the home of restaurants in Frutas Vázquez, one of the oldMadrid. est and most highly-reputed fruit specialists in Madrid. LA PAZ MARKET A large part of the movement towards gastronomic luxury stems from this epicentre in the district. Its stalls o!er a huge variety of unbeatable-quality produce. On your visit you will nd a stall dedicated exclusively to gourmet hamburgers, sushi specialists and the nest fresh sh in the city; there is also a rosconería o!ering a thousand di!erent takes on the traditional Spanish roscón, and a orist specialising in roses.
106-111 SALAMANCA.indd 110
PRÍNCIPE DE VE RGARA
MARÍA DE MOLINA
DE LA CASTE
Fernando Rimblas Manager of Gentleman magazine. Where to dress: Yusty (Serrano, 54), famous names and custom tailoring. Where to eat: Tartan (General Pardiñas, 56), an exciting, unforgettable experience. For something sweet: Oriol Balaguer (Ortega y Gasset, 44), a revolutionary confectioner. Beautiful things: Librería García Prieto (Alcalá, 123), bookshop selling manuscripts, maps and first editions.
NÚÑEZ DE BALBOA
SE RR AN O
PRÍNCIPE DE VE RGARA
ORTEGA Y GASSET
1. Lázaro Galdiano Foundation 2. Public Art Museum 3. ABC shopping centre 4. Carlos de Amberes Foundation 5. Juan March Foundation 6. La Paz Market 7. Calle Hermosilla 8. Callejón Jorge Juan 9. Fernán Gómez Theatre 10. Archaeological Museum
LÁ CA PRÍNCIPE DE VERGARA
MUSEUMS AND FOUNDATIONS
Serrano's hidden treasures The dignity and elegance of the Salamanca district is also reected in its prominent cultural o!ering, inuenced by the neighbouring Art Walk, and above all due to the proximity of the National Library and the Archaeological Museum. There is plenty to see, from sculputres by Miró, Chillida, Rueda and Palazuelo, which accost us from within the Public Art Museum next to the Paseo de la Castellana, to the most popular auction houses in the city, near the Retiro Park. SMALL DISCOVERIES The corners of the Lázaro Galdiano Museum house an exquisite collection of European art. We invite you to explore it as an alternative to the large Madrid galleries. The Juan March Foundation also hosts important temporary exhibitions and chamber music recitals. And if you pay a visit to the evocative Carlos de Amberes Foundation building, you will have the opportunity to view the Martyrdom of St. Andrew, by Rubens.
106-111 SALAMANCA.indd 111
NEIGHBOURHOODS SALESAS ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
If you like to be a trendsetter
Pursuers of the latest trends are easy to spot in this neighbourhood. Sometimes there is a French feel, other times a New York air, but it is always Madrid. This is the rst stop for the latest in fashion and art. While shoppers reign in its streets, there is nothing stopping you from enjoying the modernist architectural jewels or pausing for a cold beer.
THE LATEST FASHIONS
To make you feel like a guru If you take a stroll around this neighbourhood and see people looking like they belong in Gossip Girl or on The Sartorialist website, there is no need to rub your eyes. Salesas is the neighbourhood of fashion showrooms, shops frequented by trade experts and style laboratories. Every day, stylists, designers and other inhabitants of the fashion world strut out on its streets. Any shopping tour must include Calles Argensola and Barquillo, packed with everything from big-name stores to French boutiques. What is more in Calle Campomanes you can nd the latest in designer shoes, in Santa Teresa, must-have accessories and in Almirante, cutting-edge fashion. A gastronomic tour can also be enjoyed on the same streets, with hundred-year-old shops (o!ering fruit, sh and cakes) and cheese, tea and chocolate specialists, all boasting contemporary style.
Borders with: Recoletos, Sagasta, Alonso Martínez and Génova. Gastronomy: Everything from croquettes to dim sum. Shopping: High-quality: imported brand names, elegant shops, designer stores. It hides: Lovely examples of local architecture from the early 20th century and excellent art galleries. Origins: 19th century. Style: Modern bourgeois.
112-115 SALESAS.indd 112
The modernist Longoria Palace in Calle Fernando VI is head office to the General Society of Authors and Editors.
112-115 SALESAS.indd 113
See how European inuences have been adapted to Madrid
Plaza de la Villa de While Madrid was never a París, between Colón modernist city, it is home and Alonso Martínez, to more than 70 buildings of that style. The nest of these is is one of the prettiest to be found in this neighbourand most peaceful hood, Longoria Palace (1902), squares in presently head o!ce to the SGAE, Madrid. the Spanish Society of Authors, Composers and Publishers. Alongside this jewel in the Modernist crown stands Pérez Villaamil house and the Spanish Film Library. Nearby, you might like to pause to contemplate the Lamarca Hermanos building (1902) and la Casa de los Lagartos (1911), with hints of the Vienna Secession and Catalan Modernism, but designed for Madrid.
Teresa Rapallo Fashionistas Estudio. Where to eat: Olivia Te Cuida (Santa Teresa, 8). Healthy food, served around a shared table. Café Oliver (Almirante, 12). International food. For a drink: Olivera (Santo Tomé, 8), a sort of English club, with a decadent feel. Toni 2 (Almirante, 9), the most lively spot in the area. Going shopping: Pomme Sucre (Barquillo, 49), a wonderful patisserie, with unforgettable croissants. Love Dispensary (Barquillo, 35), very chic, exquisite taste and quality.
Giamco nsectet la atue magnit nim From top tovero bottom, eu feummy shop Hato Style (in Calle Argensola),nostrud Caja Negradiametu Gallery (in Fernando VI), eriliscil diamet and Cacao utpat Sampaka cummysent. (in Orellana).
112-115 SALESAS.indd 114
Browse the packed cultural programme of this underground centre in Plaza de Colón.
NS GE AR
1. Plaza de Santa Bárbara 2. Casa de los Lagartos 3. Longoria Palace 4. Plaza de la Villa de París 5. Juana de Aizpuru Gallery
N A DA
EZ RT AL
PA S E
you will find classic cafés like Gijón and piano bars with terraces such as El Espejo.
DE L A EN SE
4. RECOLETOS On this pretty avenue
3. TEATRO FERNÁN GÓMEZ
Sloping and rectangular in shape, it could have been an avenue or even a boulevard. Its role as a popular meeting place since last century however, has earned it the title of plaza. It is all because of the beer. Back in the forties, on the grounds of the convent that gave its name to the square, la Cervecería de Santa Bárbara bar opened its doors. It was one of the rst in Madrid, and the area was o!cially given the status of plaza. Since then, its terrace and those nearby have been lled with locals and tourists alike, none of whom allow geometrical concerns to detract from their enjoyment. Recent renovation works have extended the pedestrian area and softened its silhouette. Cyclists, pet owners and neighbours are all content.
in the Conde de Xiquena area are a popular afterwork meeting point.
Where beer becomes a ritual
2. AFTERWORK The bars and cafés
CONDE DE XIQUENA
can be found here: Juana de Aizpuru, Max Estrella and Oliva Arauna.
1. GALLERIES Some of the best
6. Wax Museum 7. Salesas Reales Convent 8. Teatro María Guerrero 9. Calle del Almirante 10. Café Gijón
112-115 SALESAS.indd 115
The Bamboo house in the Ensanche de Carabanchel, the horse racing at the hippodrome and the El Capricho bandstand are all examples of the great diversity to be found in Madrid.
116-119 Y ADEMAS.indd 0116
NEIGHBOURHOODS AND ALSO ART & CULTURE
Still so much more to choose from If you have some spare time during your stay in Madrid don't miss the opportunity to visit these little gems, all of them somewhat off the beaten track. You will come upon fantasy gardens, panoramic views, futuristic buildings and shows to suit every audience.
Come and view Madrid from a di!erent angle If you take an excursion away from the centre, you will discover the far-reaching extent of Madrid's important architectural prole. In Avenida de América, the emblematic White Towers, an organicist design by Sáez de Oteiza, are neighbours to the Silken Puerta América hotel, whose interiors were created by renowned international names, like Zaha Hadid, Norman Foster, Jean Nouvel, Arata Isozaki, and many more.
New Madrid urbanism spreads right to the city peripherals, creating a more open, habitable city. This is the case with the innovative sustainable buildings by Sanchinarro (such as the Mirador building, which a!ords mountain views) in the districts of Ensanche de Carabanchel (home to buildings such as the original Bamboo House and the colourful ats of the Manzana Perforada) and Ensanche de Vallecas (where you will nd Ecobulevar and the green façade of Vallecas 51).
116-119 Y ADEMAS.indd 0117
NEIGHBOURHOODS AND ALSO
Kites fly high over Juan Carlos I Park. On the next page, inside Silken Puerta América hotel, a bullfighter before a fight at Las Ventas and Eco-bulevar in Vallecas.
4 to follow 1. FAUNIA In Valdebernardo, the
park recreates habitats from all over the world and is home to many different animals.
PARKS & GARDENS
Views, fountains and almond groves As well as the better-known green areas in Madrid, the Retiro and Casa de Campo parks, there is a wide range of recreational destinations where you can enjoy open spaces, with rich vegetation and fresh air to clear your lungs. This is certainly the case at hilly Cerro del Tío Pío, known as Parque de las Tetas, in Vallecas, a secret place o!ering a view of the Madrid skyline, especially beautiful against the backdrop of a ruby sunset. MADRID IS GREEN Around the Barajas area you can visit the grassy Juan Carlos I Park, a mammoth area of land with lake in to boot, which you can explore on a bike (available for free). Very nearby are the neoclassical El Capricho gardens and the almond groves of Quinta de los Molinos, which are in full blossom during the early months of the year. On the other side of Madrid, near the university area, Dehesa de la Villa is a large urban wood where you can spend a pleasant family afternoon at any one of its picnic areas.
2. CLASSICAL The Symphonic and Chamber halls of the National Auditorium stage very interesting concerts.
3. LA FLORIDA A stroll around the wooded setting of the Royal Chapel of San Antonio, next to Manzanares River, is well worth the trip.
4. DELICIAS The old station is now home to the Railway Museum and departure point for the Strawberry Train to Aranjuez.
116-119 Y ADEMAS.indd 0118
Everything anyone could want
BULLS Plaza de Las Ventas exhibits its best posters, especially those from the San Isidro festival.
Don't forget to check what's on during your visit in advance (www.esMADRID.com). From rst-class concerts to horse racing at the hippodrome, from trade fairs and congresses at Campo de las Naciones to all kinds of sporting events, see how the city rhythm alters on the weekends with roads reclaimed for pedestrian use. THE RED CAPE The monumental Plaza de Las Ventas, the temple of one of Spain’s most rooted traditions and perhaps the most important bullring in the world, is packed with history and legend. It can hold up to 24,000 spectators who ll the terraces every season to applaud bullghters hoping to be carried out through the Puerta Grande or Big Door, on the shoulders of jubilant supporters. The Patio de Caballos is the starting point for the Tauro Tour and the entrance to the Bullghting Museum.
116-119 Y ADEMAS.indd 0119
&'()*+,'(-)..'/'+0 01234+!'5675 893:;<3:943:932 ='656*>?@>*A
sleeping art & culture food & drink shopping what's on green sport nightlife
121 PORTADILLA GUIA.indd 0121
LIVES 11/2/11 18:04:20
Better than at home The range of Madrid accommodation has not only expanded, but it has become more sophisticated. Whether you want a hotel that is trend-setting, with views, selfindulgent, suitable for families, in a palace, well-connected or isolated, small, medium, large... The best part is that all of them, every single one, are in Madrid.
FEELING COOL A new generation of hotel has risen up to give a new look to the city. The hotel is now a reflection of the traveller's ideals, accommodation selection being a form of self-expression. From skyscrapers to the Paseo del Prado, Madrid has accommodation for the most worldly-travelled, high-society urbanites. Many hotels are designed to impress, and some have renovated the traditional architecture. They can be found
near the Retiro Park and in the heart of Chueca, minimalist and Baroque. Every one aims to provide the most splendid communal areas, whether they be terraces reaching out to touch the famous Madrid sky, or something a little more subtle.
122-125 GUIA DORMIR.indd 122
www.esMADRID.com/en/hotels-madrid Browse the accommodation lists on our website to help you choose the hotel that best suits your preferences. Our search engine is guaranteed by the Hotel Business Association of Madrid.
01. Silken Puerta América Hotel 02. Ritz Hotel 03. The Westin Palace 04. NH Palacio de Tepa hotel
Hostels Every district in Madrid has an excellent range of quality accommodation at reasonable prices.
THE CLASSICS Madrid proudly boasts a magnicent selection of rst-rate hotels, which include a splendid Ritz and Palace. But the choice of luxury accommodation does not end there. Few cities are able to boast a Ritz and a Palace of the same calibre as in Madrid. For over a century, these two gems have been welcoming royalty, celebrities and anonymous guests, all looking to enjoy quiet luxury. As well as these, there is a huge selection of grand hotels. The
majority are in the Castellana area and the Salamanca district. Inside their walls aesthetics and practicality, local tradition and cosmopolitan fashions, English and Spanish, red wine and cocktails all live side by side. They represent the classic and elegant side of a kaleidoscopic city.
The Madrid municipal youth hostel is one of the best in Europe. It is an economical option, modern and very welllocated. Mejía Lequerica, 21. Tel. +34 915 939 688. (ajmadrid.es)
Gay Friendly The Chueca y Fuencarral area is where the majority of gay-friendly accommodation can be found in Madrid. These hotels are typically small and cute, and offer very friendly service. If you are planning to come for Gay Pride week, make your reservations early.
122-125 GUIA DORMIR.indd 123
SLEEPING 01. Hotel Urban 02. Vincci Capitol 03. Hotel Me Madrid by Meliá 04. Room Mate Óscar 05. Hotel Abalú 06. Hotel Chic&Basic
WITH VIEWS The Madrid skies are unique. Immortalised by painters and artists and praised to the end. And in many hotels, a key factor when reserving a room. There is great truth in the wonderful slogan, "From Madrid to Heaven". The skies of this city were immortalised by Velázquez, and to this day they are admired by locals and visitors alike. This is why hotels try to get as close to them as possible. In Madrid there exists accommodation where views are decisive when you are making a reservation. They
might be urban vistas such as those belonging to the hotels on Gran Vía, from Cibeles up to the Plaza de España, or perhaps panoramic cityscapes, to be enjoyed from the skyscrapers in the northern part of Paseo de la Castellana. All of them evoke that wonderful sensation, pursued by urbanites everywhere, of having the city at your feet.
122-125 GUIA DORMIR.indd 124
VERY POPULAR Between luxury and the avant-garde, Madrid also offers simple accommodation, comfortable and well-positioned to help visitors enjoy a few pleasant days in the city. Some visitors come in search of comfortable accommodation, well-located and offering a pleasant night's sleep. Nothing more. Madrid also offers some excellent options for these travellers. There is a multitude of e!cient hotels spread all across the city, ready to help guests enjoy a pleasant stay. Some are family-friend-
ly, part of large chains, ideal for groups of friends, suitable for a tight budget, perfect for a treat, located in the heart of the city-centre or, if you prefer, in quieter neighbourhoods... At present, Madrid has an immense range of accommodation, and choosing a hotel is the beginning of a memorable journey.
Fernando Gallardo Journalist, Notodohoteles. The best ambience: Urban (Carrera de San Jerónimo, 34). Their Glass Bar is stunning. It has a rooftop terrace with a swimming pool. Excellent location. Interior design: Silken Puerta América (Avenida de América, 41). Twenty architects and designers given free reign to their imagination on every one of the 15 floors. Halfway between the airport and the city centre. Views of Gran Vía: De las Letras (Gran Vía, 11). Modernity in the classic heart of Madrid. Their rooftop suites with jacuzzi are irresistible. Cosmopolitan: Hotel Room Mate Óscar (Plaza Vázquez de Mella, 12). The Madrid trend-setter. Extrovert, night-loving, extravagant. In the heart of the Chueca neighbourhood. Elegant luxury: Hotel AC Palacio del Retiro (Alfonso XII, 14). The most luxurious setting in Madrid. Eclectic decor, mixing antiques with cutting-edge design. The roof affords wonderful views of the Retiro Park.
122-125 GUIA DORMIR.indd 125
ART & CULTURE
Feel the inspiration Madrid is a city steeped in art, from the magnicence of the Paseo del Prado to the innite variety of small museums and avant-garde galleries, not to mention the numerous religious and civil buildings which are landmarks of their architectural styles.
BAROQUE ECSTASY This period saw Spain reach an artistic zenith which is well evidenced by the paintings of Velázquez belonging to the Prado Museum. What's more, in Madrid this art can be seen in churches guarding magnicent treasures. If you want to immerse yourself in art from the 17th and 18th centuries, then the monumental high altars, lavish decoration, colossal cupolas and precious artworks preserved in Madrid's churches are not to be missed. Among
the oldest we can highlight the churches of Nuestra Señora del Carmen, Colegio Imperial, San Antonio de los Alemanes and Nuestra Señora de Montserrat. Later churches include the basilicas of San Miguel and San Francisco el Grande.
126-129 GUIA ARTE 5.indd 126
www.esMADRID.com/en/museum-madrid Check out our website where you'll find there's something for everyone.
01. San Francisco El Grande 02. Matadero 03. Reina Sofía Museum 04. La Casa Encendida
AVANT-GARDE Madrid owes its reputation as a modern city to the vitality of its museums, fairs and galleries. Come and get to know these cultural spaces where the most daring events on the artistic scene take place. The opening in 1986 of the Reina Sofía Museum, home to the most important collection of modern art in Spain, was a turning point for Madrid's artistic scene. This revolution was strengthened by the introduction of the Arco contempo-
rary arts fair, an indispensible annual event for art collectors worldwide, and the efforts of art galleries located in the Salesas district and the Literary Quarter, as vibrant today as the day they rst opened. But the list doesn't end there. We
should also celebrate the e!orts of private foundations such as Juan March and Telefónica, which produce consistently magnicent exhibitions. NEW VENUES AND EVENTS Over the years, new names have emerged which must also be taken into account: the events Art Madrid and MadridFoto, the alternative centres Matadero and La Casa Encendida, the gallery IvoryPress Art+Books, the surprising CaixaForum, and a host of future openings.
126-129 GUIA ARTE 5.indd 127
ART & CULTURE RATIONALIST STYLE That was the name of the trend which swept through the architecture of Madrid in the 1930s, whose singular features live on in buildings which, true to the spirit of their design, display themselves to the world without hiding their interior. The use of reinforced concrete, exposed brickwork, large horizontal windows and pure volumes were characteristic of this new style inuenced by the expressionist vanguard, Art Deco, and Le Corbusier. The Capitol build-
ing and the bar Museo Chicote on Gran Vía, the viaduct on Calle Bailén, and the Teatro Pavón on Embajadores are some of the most noteworthy examples of this style, also exemplified by various residential buildings.
01. Capitol building 02. Teatro Pavón 03. Viaduct 04. Garment Museum 05. ABC Museum
The genius from Aragón so well represented in the Prado Museum also made his mark on the Church of San Antonio de la Florida, the Royal Academy of San Fernando and the Basilica of San Francisco el Grande.
Mondays There are many more cultural centres open on Mondays than you might think, including the Royal Tapestry Factory, Fundación Mapfre, the Royal Palace, CaixaForum and the Reina Sofía.
Sciences Knowledge is constantly expanding. Discover the National Museum of Natural Science, Royal Astronomical Observatory, Planetarium, Museum of Science and Technology, and the Geomineral Museum.
126-129 GUIA ARTE 5.indd 128
Get your Madrid Card and gain access to more than 50 museums, monuments, recreational centres and discounts.
Aldo García Antonio Machado Bookshop.
UNIQUE SPACES Since many of Madrid's museums and cultural spaces are highly original, it is difcult to group them together in a single category. What really matters is discovering for yourself why each of them is so special. At the Garment Museum you can take an elegant journey through the history of fashion. The innovative ABC Museum is home to a unique collection of illustrations published in the press, cartoons, and comics. The Royal Tapestry Factory preserves the heritage of the traditional weaver's art. At the Sorolla Museum we can ad-
mire the Valencian painter's work in the building that was once his home. The Lázaro Galdiano and Cerralbo museums are testimony to the power of the collector's passion. The Archaeological Museum is a journey through time. And the list goes on: the National Museum of Romanticism, the Blind Museum, Casa de América...
Where to find it: On Marqués de Casa Riera, 2 (lower floors of the Círculo de Bellas Artes building). Recommended reading: La novela de Madrid, by Philippe Nourry (Planeta). Passion and knowledge are the themes of this very entertaining book telling the story of Madrid. El corazón helado, by Almudena Grandes (Tusquets). Possibly the most typical novel set in Madrid from the most authentic Madrid-born author, the story spans almost the entire 20th century. La forja de un rebelde, by Arturo Barea (Debolsillo). Costumbrista novel set in Madrid whose story also tips over into the early 20th century. Un Madrid literario, by José Manuel Caballero Bonald (Lunwerg). This poet gives us an introduction to the literary Madrid of novels and memoirs whose traces are recorded in this book. Antología de Madrid, by Hugh Thomas (Gadir). Brings together the most interesting texts written about Madrid by the famous figures who have passed through the capital. A truly authentic way to experience Madrid through the ages.
126-129 GUIA ARTE 5.indd 129
FOOD & DRINK
You've got to try it In Madrid you will nd the best of Spanish and international cuisine. Exotic flavours and original recipes to delight the most exquisite of palates. The tapas culture still reigns: with vermouth or beer draughted from the tap like nowhere else in the world.
AUTHENTIC CUISINE In Madrid you will nd Casa Botín, the oldest restaurant in the world and a good indicator of this city's deep gastronomical tradition. Typical hundredyear-old dishes that are still impossible to resist. During the winter months, the quintessential dish is cocido (Madrid-style stew), best prepared in a clay pot over a charcoal re. You must try huevos estrellados (fried eggs on a bed of fried potatoes) in all of its various forms: with ham, with pisto (fried vegetable hash)... The most famous huevos estrellados are found at Casa Lucio, a hangout for inter-
national celebrities when they visit Madrid. Los callos (Madridstyle tripe dish), traditional grilled lamb, or the famousbocadillo de calamares (fried calamari sandwich) are other highlights of Madrid's cuisine. Whether for breakfast or for a mid-afternoon snack, having churros and hot chocolate in San Ginés is a must.
130-133 GUIA COMER 5.indd Sec1:130
www.esMADRID.com/en/restaurants-madrid Consult our website for more info on all the bars and restaurants to find what best suits your taste.
01. Casa Lucio 02. Sudestada 03. Mumbai 04. Kabuki
BON APPÉTIT! Madrid is an international city and so are its restaurants. Travelling the world from meal to meal has quickly become one of Madrid's main attractions, and this capital city never ceases to amaze. Here every cuisine from around the world has its place. The culinary variety of the city runs the gamut. For example, Indian food acionados can choose between the authenticity of the Indian restaurants in the Lavapiés neighbourhood or the elegance afforded by the Chamberí district. If you prefer Eastern fare, no problem, in Madrid you can enjoy Asian flavours even up to the Michelin star standard. And if you are feeling a bit more adventurous, you can try one of
the new Asian/Peruvian fusion restaurants or sample a dim sum plate of duck with foie gras and txangurro (crab meat). The cuisines of Latin America have made their presence felt, but you will also find enticing Scandinavian spots, wellrounded Russian restaurants, delicious Sicilian trattorias and excellent Argentine grills. Many places are also starting to adopt American traditions such as brunch, cupcakes and gourmet hamburgers.
Paco Roncero Chef. Where: La Terraza del Casino (Alcalá, 15) or his tapas bars Estado Puro (Plaza Cánovas del Castillo and Plaza del Ángel). The best vermouth: At the San Miguel Market. The best cocido: Lhardy (Carrera de San Jerónimo, 8), with a traditional flavour. The best tortilla de patatas: At Las Tortillas de Gabino (Rafael Calvo, 20), for their variety and expertise. The best churros and hot chocolate: At the Chocolatería de San Ginés, of course. A definite must.
130-133 GUIA COMER 5.indd Sec1:131
FOOD & DRINK GOING FOR TAPAS If you want to enjoy the city like a local, there is one thing you must do: go for tapas. And when doing so, make sure you enjoy a well-pulled beer, a good wine or a draught vermouth along with them. The best places to go for tapas are the typical, runof-the-mill taverns. In Madrid there are loads and they suit everyone's tastes. The only stipulation, as required by tradition, is that they have beer and vermouth on draught. The La Latina district or Huertas are good places to start. As the story goes, the latter used to be one of Andy Warhol's preferred haunts when he visited Madrid. They say he would go to a small tavern and would sit at the bar fas-
cinated by the ebb and ow of the small tumblers of wine and plates of shrimp passing by. However in all of the city's districts you will find great spots to go for tapas... For the more innovative crowd, there are places to go besides the typical tavern. The latest trend is to go to a gastrobar, hip, modern bars that offer original and elaborate tapas. That said, no matter where you go, the fundamental concept will never change: a sampling of small plates.
Darío Barrio Chef. Where to find him: In his restaurant, Dassa Bassa (Villalar, 7). Where to eat: Ramón Freixa Madrid (Claudio Coello, 67), for the personal and professional admiration I have for my friend, Ramón. Where to have a cocktail: You have to go to O'Clock (Juan Bravo, 25) and let barman Carlos Moreno take care of you. Where to shop: Moulin Chocolat (Alcalá, 77), for the fine, artisanal chocolate made by Ricardo Martínez.
130-133 GUIA COMER 5.indd Sec1:132
01. Bodega La Ardosa 02. El Almacén de los Vinos 03. La Daniela 04. Bar Tomate
FOR ALL TASTES
Michelin stars The list of restaurants in Madrid boasting one or more Michelin stars is quite impressive. You can find some of the finest chefs in the world right here.
Flexible hours For those who like to dine early or those who may lose themselves in a museum, in Madrid it is becoming more and more common to see restaurants that do not close in the afternoon.
Vegetarian options Vegetarians of all kinds or those devoted to organic food will have no problem during their stay. Many restaurants cater to both groups of diners.
SET MENU Madrid is one of the best world capitals to do the extraordinary: eat your ll of delicious food for cheap. The best option is a home-cooked meal, with fresh ingredients from the street market or meals prepared "just like grandma made". If you come to Madrid and you want to savour the food without breaking the bank, remember that here you can eat very well at a very good price. Those specialising in this type of o!ering are the typical home-cooked places,
the most traditional. These restaurants usually also offer a set menu, which allows you to enjoy two courses and a dessert with a soft drink, beer or house wine all for a fixed price of between ten and fteen euros.
130-133 GUIA COMER 5.indd Sec1:133
Looking is never enough Madrid is where the action is. More and more, locals and tourists alike are enjoying a larger number of stores of better quality, and the shopping routes are starting to have a personality of their own. You can choose from internationally recognised brand names and up-and-coming local designers, shop at decoration stores and visit gourmet paradises.
MICRO, MACRO, MULTI In Madrid there exists a harmony between the fashion brands known worldwide such as Zara, Mango and Camper and the offerings of local Spanish designers. You can experience the large stores on Serrano and Gran Vía down to the intimate setting of a boutique in the Salesas neighbourhood. You will nd that the majority of the Spanish designers' stores are in this neighbourhood and also in Malasaña. Designers like Fer-
nando Lemoniez, Carlos Diez, Amaya Arzuaga, David Delfín and Mónica Vinader have their stores dispersed throughout the centre of Madrid. Another option is to visit a department store where you can nd anything from a dress, a brooch, perfumes or a lamp.
134-137 GUIA COMPRAS 6.indd 134
www.esMADRID.com/en/shopping-madrid On our website you'll find the most complete shopping guide to help you choose your route.
CENTENARIANS For decades some businesses, now more than a century old, overcame crises and ever-changing trends thus establishing themselves as bastions of the city. These hairdressers, pharmacies and bakeries preserve the most traditional Madrileño spirit. In the face of globalisation, there remain a few pockets of resistance. For example, hundred-year-old businesses, establishments selling local products that have withstood for decades various crises and change. Among them you will nd hairdressers like Kince or pharmacies like the Real Botica de la Reina Madre, where the queen used to go for her prescriptions. One type of business that has gracefully withstood the test of time is the bakery. You could make your way through Madrid, stop-
ping for some turrones (almond nougat) at Casa Mira, La Pajarita, where Lauren Bacall used to shop, or at La Duquesita. Other classic shops in the city include Pontejos, a large haberdashery emporium, Loewe, with their unparalleled leather goods, or Grassy, the most elegant jeweller’s in Madrid. And to buy that perfect souvenir, to show off a timeless accessory that's always in fashion, nothing is more tting than a pair of alpargatas (espadrilles) from Casa Hernanz, Calzados Lobo or Casa Vega.
01. Calle Serrano 02. Grassy, on Gran Vía 03. UN Y2 store 04. Le Petit Vintage
134-137 GUIA COMPRAS 6.indd 135
SHOPPING TRULY SPANISH Don't try to avoid the unavoidable. If you come to Madrid, your friends are going to want an abanico (fan), a mantón (shawl) or any other souvenir that's impossible to get outside of Spain. It's OK. Go ahead. They're going to love it. The best way to give into clichés is to do so with gusto. Dare to buy local souvenirs and you will surely come up with the perfect gift. Not only do you ensure that what you've bought won't be found wherever you're from, but you will also have a shopping experience that is truly Madrilenian. Get your bohochic friend a typical mantón de
Manila (shawl) at Gil Sucesor de Antolín Quevedo. For your sweet-toothed friends, get some sweets from the monastery at El Jardín del Convento or perhaps some violetas (violet shaped candies) at the Plaza de Canalejas. And so mum can show o! her elegant yet mysterious side in front of her friends, get her an abanico (fan) from Casa Diego.
01. Adolfo Domínguez 02. Embassy 03. Sportivo 04. Camper 05. De Gusto
134-137 GUIA COMPRAS 6.indd 136
SHOPPING ROUTE Ana Álvarez Actress. Suggestions: San Miguel Market, so you can enjoy some tapas while you shop. At La Buena Vida-Café del Libro (Vergara, 10) you can have a snack or a drink while you choose your next literary adventure.
MADRID GOURMET Going shopping today no longer means just looking for clothes stores. Your shopping route must also now include places to try and buy the best wine, meats and cheeses. Luckily, in Madrid you'll nd much to choose from... Gourmet food is the new musthave. The shopping route now includes strolling around the streets in search of a cheese your friend recommended or a wine you saw in a magazine. Well you're in luck: in Madrid you'll nd plenty, and of good quality at that. The city has products from all over Spain, and, what's more, they're sold in professionally-run stores where
sampling the goods is part of the process. A gourmet itinerary in Madrid takes you to shops like Poncelet (cheeses), Lhardy (meats), Tomad Mucha Fruta (fruit from all over the world) and Embassy (Anglophile delicatessen). Some shops are traditional, some modern, some specialise and others are more general. Some sage advice: don't shop hungry.
Andrew Ferren New York Times Correspondent. Art galleries: La Caja Negra (Fernando VI, 17), specialising in affordable etchings from Spanish artists. Mad is Mad (Pelayo, 48), a young and alternative gallery. Masako Isibasho Correspondent Kyodo News. Real deal: Umo, at the Jardín de Serrano (Goya 6-8). For its exclusive designs and high quality. At El Corte Inglés you can find everything, including a supermarket and car park.
Argensola, Jorge Juan, Conde Duque, Almirante, Corredera de San Pablo... each street with its own style to satisfy the most demanding of shoppers.
In the Literary Quarter, you can find a lamp made by a Scandinavian master or a pair of Moroccan earrings from the 70s...
The work done on Calle Fuencarral has solidified its place as one of the main commercial arteries of central Madrid featuring top name brands.
María Martínez Iwannagothere.com Don't miss: Corachán y Delgado (Barco, 42), one of Madrid's true vintage jewels. Plus, they just opened a new store in Corredera Baja de San Pablo.
134-137 GUIA COMPRAS 6.indd 137
Continuous showings In Madrid, each day has its own soundtrack, you just need to keep an eye on the concert and festival calendars. The streets become public stages during special cultural events. You are assured of 24 hours of entertainment and shows 365 days a year.
A YEAR OF MUSIC Madrid is truly passionate about live music, from the biggest festivals to intimate acoustic gigs. Whatever your taste, you'll have to organize your calendar so you don't miss out on any action. If you visit Madrid during July and August, take note of Veranos de la Villa, some of the most interesting dates on the music calendar. Featuring various open-air venues, the city swells with the sound of concerts by some of the biggest international names in music.
The soundtrack will change depending on the time of year: the Jazz Festival, Suma Flamenca, or any of the daily concerts that ďƒžll halls all over the city from the biggest theatres to the smallest clubs. The biggest bands never miss an opportunity to feel the warmth of playing live in Madrid.
138-141 GUIA OCIO.indd 138
www.esMADRID.com/en/whats-on-madrid On our website you will find the most complete calendar of shows and events available.
01. Musicals in Callao 02. Live Rock 03. Madrid en Danza
SPOILT FOR CHOICE
Cinema Madrid lives and breathes cinema. From the old classics played at the Cine Doré to films in their original language, from the big multiplex theatres screening new blockbusters to film festivals with varying themes, this city sees it all.
Musicals An integral part of the Madrid scene, Gran Vía's neon signs light it more brightly than ever.
For kids The Retiro Park is the perfect place to spend an afternoon with the kids on the swings or skating, but you can also take them to the puppet theatre, entering through Plaza de la Independencia.
EVERYONE ON STAGE The best of cinema, photography, theatre, dance and documentaries can be found in Madrid. The institutions and people of the city are fully involved in events of great prestige. The year begins with the Escena Contemporánea Festival, in which Madrid stages the latest work in theatre. Thanks to events like this, these pieces can be seen by everyone. The same occurs in November with the Madrid en Danza Festival. The latest in contemporary dance, music, theatre and circus can be seen at the Autumn Festival in Spring.
The world of documentaries nds its place at Documenta Madrid, an international festival that is attracting a growing number of acionados. With PHotoEspaña, photography takes to the streets of the capital to bring in summer. This photography and visual arts festival turns Madrid into a giant exhibition, with displays and special events accessible to everyone.
138-141 GUIA OCIO.indd 139
WHAT'S ON ‘CHOTIS’ AND ‘ZARZUELA’ Madrid loves its festivals. Above all, the most popular ones, those in which you can dance to the rhythm of the chotis or enjoy a bullght at the Plaza de las Ventas. San Isidro is the patron saint of the capital and the festivities to celebrate him dominate the month of May. The bullghting festival is one of the most famous in the world: the Plaza de Las Ventas hosts bullghts throughout the month, with the biggest names in bullghting. Highlights of the celebrations also include the open-air zarzuela (Spanish operettas) in Plaza Mayor and the verbenas (open-air dances). The latter event is perhaps the most
fun with the most authentic Madrileños, dressed in chulapos and chulapas (traditional dress), proud to dance to the rhythm of the chotis. The festivals of the Virgin of La Paloma, in the La Latina neighbourhood, and the festivals of San Lorenzo, in Lavapiés, are the biggest events in August, when the streets are decked out for the processions. Concerts and food and drink stands bring life to the summer nights.
Blanca Berlín Photographer. Where to find her: In her photo gallery (Limón, 28). The best daytime shot: From the teleférico (cable car). You get some quite unusual images. And at night: La Almudena Cathedral from the Temple of Debod. At twilight, when it's already lit up, before night falls and it gets too dark. In B/W: The intersection of Gran Vía and Alcalá. The Metrópolis building gives the photo a real retro feel. The best panoramic shot: From the terrace of the Fine Arts Circle.
138-141 GUIA OCIO.indd Sec1:140
01. Shawls on balconies 02. Pradera de San Isidro 03. Las Ventas Bullring 04. La Noche en Blanco 05. Museum Night 06. Theatre Night
ALSO AT NIGHT... Madrid nightlife is not only famous for its revelry. When the sun goes down, there is also room for all types of cultural events, turning the streets into huge stages. Culture, performance and fashion have become the biggest draw for Madrid's themed nights. This is true for La Noche en Blanco, an initiative that has become a
huge festival of the arts, with events happening all over the city. On Theatre Night, the public and artists alike stay awake to commemorate International Performing Arts
Day. Another example is Museum Night, a European initiative, in which all of the city's museums remain open until dawn. The city is lit by ďƒ&#x;ashlights as people hit the streets on Photo Night. For a nice dose of glamour, Fashionâ€™s Night Out in September turns the Serrano area into the world's classiest catwalk.
138-141 GUIA OCIO.indd Sec1:141
Amidst trees and flowers An abundance of trees and parks deďƒžne the green soul of Madrid. Monumental parks like the Retiro, gardens inspired by romantic whims and, behind the wrought iron gates of the botanical garden, species from all over the world await you. Revel in the extensive network of pedestrian zones, and, as the day draws to a close, bask in the warmth of a wondrous sunset.
SUNSETS Due to its continental climate, the Madrid sky is favoured with a unique clarity, affording breathtaking sunsets that paint the wispy clouds a rich red and orange. Come see for yourself from these four hand-picked spots. The Temple of Debod, in the Parque del Oeste, was a gift from Egypt to Spain in 1968 for helping to save its archeological treasures before the construction of the Aswan Dam. It is more than 2,000 years old and it was placed in its original alignment, from east to west, so it could enjoy the same sunsets. From the Las Vistillas Gardens you can gaze at the
sky lying down on the grass. A more elegant view can be seen from the Plaza de Oriente, whose vantage point from the top of a hill facing west was not chosen by accident. From the terrace at El Viajero the sunset becomes the backdrop for chill-out music, tapas and mojitos. It is one of the best places to catch the sunset while in the La Latina quarter.
142-145 GUIA VERDE.indd 142
www.esMADRID.com/en/parks-madrid Check our website for more information on our parks and gardens.
01. Temple of Debod 02. Quinta de Los Molinos
SECRET GARDENS The Retiro and Casa de Campo parks serve as points of reference; but you can't leave Madrid without getting to know many of its hidden gems. Some you'll nd squeezed between buildings, others are in spectacular estates on the outskirts of the city. Keep your eyes peeled when you pass through the Plaza de la Paja: the Príncipe de Anglona Garden is hidden behind a wrought iron gate. When you go in (entrance is free), you will nd yourself in a small green oasis, right in the middle of the Hapsburg neighbourhood. An ideal spot to lose yourself for hours between the pages of a good book. Moving along, if you go to the Lázaro Galdiano Museum, of course you'll want to see the art, but make sure you don't miss the little lawns with their sophoras and cedars and the magnificent beech tree. And when you explore the Parque del Oeste, don't forget to go downhill to the magnificent, beautifully
tended Rosaleda, where an international competition for new roses is held in May. SUMMERTIME JAZZ On the edges of town, the splendid Capricho Park (off Paseo de la Alameda de Osuna) is inspired by the romanticism of the Duchess of Osuna. Neglected for years, it has made a comeback in recent decades, regaining its former splendor and hosting chamber music and jazz concerts in summer. Nearby, in the Quinta de los Molinos Park (Alcalá, 527), which also has an aristocratic origin, make sure to get your camera ready in February to catch the myriad almond trees in blossom.
Juan Carlos del Olmo Secretary General of WWF Spain. The oldest tree: Located next to Puerta de Felipe IV, in the Retiro Park, it is a true natural monument. It is a Montezuma Cypress, also known as an “Ahuehuete”. It's native to Mexico and it's been here since 1633. Paradise of biodiversity: The Royal Botanical Garden, a veritable Noah's Ark in the Paseo del Prado, where you can relax and enjoy over 5,000 species of plants and trees thanks to the scientific expeditions carried out since the 18th century. Bird's-eye view: From the roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circle. A spectacular vantage point to take in the scenery of rooftops and verandas; up there it's easier to understand the environmental challenges that big cities must tackle. Reuse: In a throw-away society, El Rastro flea market is a fantastic place to trade and reuse old and unusual items, with a remarkable range of objects for sale. Every Sunday you can go and rummage around, it's a delightful lesson in sustainability.
142-145 GUIA VERDE.indd 143
172 Parks and gardens. Madrid is one of the European cities with the highest proportion of green space per inhabitant: 70 square metres compared with the European average of just 20.
225,000 Trees in the streets. Counting only those that line the avenues, in Madrid there is one tree for every 14 inhabitants, of which 55,000 are plane trees. There are up to 203 different species.
3,000 Annual hours of sun. Madrid enjoys a dry, continental climate. The rainy season is limited typically to November and December. The average temperature is around 15ÂşC.
PEDESTRIAN ZONES Every day, more and more areas are being designated as car-free, especially in the centre of town. And there is no better way to experience Madrid than a carefree stroll down its streets. Preciados was one of the ďƒžrst streets to become pedestrian only, in an effort to increase foot tra!c for businesses. On foot, without a car in sight, you can wander through Puerta del Sol, Calle Arenal and a good part of the Hapsburg neighbourhood and the Literary
Quarter. Pedestrians are also getting priority treatment in Calle Fuencarral, where shoppers can wander along the street from one fashion boutique to another, and in Cava Baja, where you can stroll from bar to bar as you sample the tapas in each one.
142-145 GUIA VERDE.indd 144
BOTANICAL SPLENDOR If you are a nature lover, at the Royal Botanical Garden you'll see flora from practically every part of the world, from the desert and the jungle to the diverse ecosystems of the Iberian Peninsula. You'll enter through an impressive wrought iron gate next to the Museo del Prado. Once inside the eight hectare garden, the fragrance of the aromatic plants and flowers surrounds you, as you contemplate the richness of the earth's vegetation. Established 250 years ago, it now houses 5,000 live plant species. As it is a scientific research centre, on the School terrace the plants have been placed
in chronological order, starting with the most primitive like Pines and Firs, whilst the Plano de la Flor terrace reects the romanticism of the 19th century. In the greenhouses the extreme conditions of desert, tropical and aquatic ecosystems are reproduced. At the back, you'll nd the complete bonsai collection that was donated by former president Felipe González.
01. Vertical garden at the CaixaForum 02. Sol, from Arenal 03. Palacio de Oriente 04.-06. Royal Botanical Garden
142-145 GUIA VERDE.indd 145
Let the games begin Sports are a contagious passion in Madrid. You can ride the energy of the fans parading to the legendary stadiums and the biggest events will have you trembling with emotion. In addition, the sunny weather will make you put your trainers on to go running around the parks or explore the city by bike or even on skates.
LIVE THE MAGIC On Sunday, the city is paralysed by the matches of Real Madrid and Atlético de Madrid, which attract any sports fan worth his salt. Football may be king but it's not the only game in town. It is known that followers go en masse to Santiago Bernabéu, for Real Madrid is the most decorated team in Europe. But in numbers of fans in the city, they tie with Atlético de Madrid. Tennis stars also feel the heat when they battle it out at the prestigious Madrid Open held at Dominique Perrault's Caja Mágica venue. The Real Madrid basketball team plays
in the same complex. The basketball players of Club Estudiantes, supported by their loyal fanbase called “Demencia”, call the Palacio Vistalegre their home. But for mass events check out the Madrid Marathon, the San Silvestre Vallecana 10K fun run (on 31 December), and the last stage of La Vuelta bike race.
146-147 GUIA DEPORTE 5.indd 146
www.esMADRID.com/en/sports-madrid Check our website for more info on sporting events and find one that gets you excited.
GET IN SHAPE Perhaps it's the sunny climate. Whatever the reason, Madrid loves being active and outdoors. A network of sports centres is also within your reach so you don't have to abandon your good habits while on holiday here. If pedalling is your passion, you can enjoy a 60-kilometre loop right along the M-40. If you're taking your mountain bike, you won't nd any better tracks than those at Monte del Pardo and Casa de Campo. And for the runners of the group, all
you have to do is enter the Retiro Park or Parque del Oeste to nd the purest, freshest air in the city. To swim or get t at the gym, besides private membership, you can check out the wide network of top-notch municipal sport centres.
01. Santiago Bernabéu Stadium 02. Kayaks in the lake of the Retiro Park 03. Cycling around Casa de Campo
Kayaking Paddling a kayak is a complete exercise that in Madrid can be done at Casa de Campo, the Retiro Park, Juan Carlos I Park and now in Manzanares Park.
On ice Álvaro Laiz Cycling buff. Casa de Campo route: The perimeter is 17 kilometres with suprisingly pretty sites, like the water tank next to the entrance on the Príncipe Pío side. If you
get to the top before nightfall, you'll have a 180º panoramic view of the skyline of the northern part of Madrid. Manzanares River route: From Príncipe Pío to Vicente Calderón Stadium. Loads of sandy recreational areas with hammocks and suspension bridges that can serve as a makeshift gym or simply a nice place to stretch after a good sprint.
The first time there might be some bruises, but in no time you'll be gliding across the ice with ease. At the Palacio de Hielo you can ice skate from October through May.
History The Tucano hunting bow and the Malay ball are some of the sports unknown to the west that you can learn about at the National Museum of Anthropology.
146-147 GUIA DEPORTE 5.indd 147
Painting the town red From Monday to Sunday, Madrid lives to the fullest every night of the week. It's your choice: savour a peaceful, early cocktail, enjoy the view with a drink from the terrace, or dance the night away in the hottests clubs.
COCKTAIL CULTURE Cocktail hour is redened in Madrid. From the classic standbys to new concoctions making their debut and not wanting to go unnoticed with their international influences and exotic aromas. The cocktail forms part of Madrid's history. To recognize this, you need only visit Museo Bar Chicote. This cocktail bar located on Gran Vía has been a worldwide point of reference since it opened its doors in 1931, due to its impressive clientele that has included Ava Gardner, Grace Kelly, Bette Davis and Frank Sinatra. Even today it retains its glamour and continues to be
one of the most popular spots in the city. Neighbour to Gran Vía, Calle de la Reina is also the home of many famous cocktail bars; according to legend, the two streets are connected by a secret passageway. After a hard day's work, the latest trend is to enjoy an afterwork cocktail. This new tradition is becoming increasingly popular in the more fashionable bars.
148-151 GUIA NOCHE 3.indd 148
www.esMADRID.com/en/night-madrid Check our website for more information on the nightlife scene and find what moves you.
PASSION AND DESPAIR Feel the power of an authentic cante jondo (melancholic flamenco-style song); get carried away by the exuberance of the sevillanas and bulerías (traditional Andalusian, flamenco-style song and dance). One of the top things to do whilst in Madrid is to go to a tablao (flamenco bar) to experience original Andalusian traditions. Going to a flamenco show is a must-do in Madrid. The flamenco bars of the capital have seen and continue to see the top dancers and artists. Distinguished guests, Hollywood stars and world leaders like Bill Clinton have dared to get on stage to have a go at a bulería. One of the most famous bars is Casa Patas and it also has its own foundation, the Conservatorio de Flamenco, so if your
stay is long enough you might be able to go to a class or two. Corral de la Morería, Café de Chinitas and Las Carboneras are some of the other revered temples of flamenco. Many are also restaurants and they o!er a perfect night out: dinner and a performance. Flamenco can also be felt in more modern bars, like those that keep the party going well into the wee hours.
01. Museo Bar Chicote 02. Le Cabrera 03. Corral de la Morería 04. Bar Cock
148-151 GUIA NOCHE 3.indd 149
NIGHTLIFE 01. Morocco 02. El Fabuloso 03. Moby Dick 04. Charada
PLAN OF ATTACK Alvarno Designers. To meet up with friends: BeChic Loft (Valverde, 28). Ideal for cocktails, the atmosphere is cosmopolitan and the best part is how the owner and her team welcome you. Priscila Guilayn Correspondent for O Globo.
THE NIGHT IS ALIVE Let loose and you will discover an incredibly open, tolerant and fun city. From mid-afternoon to the break of dawn, in hip new lounges and neighbourhood bars, Madrid's nightlife welcomes you. Stepping out in Madrid is a total adventure: you may know when you'll set out but you never know when you'll come home. Everyone's invited to the party! In any bar you can make friends who will surely tell you where your next stop should be – and they might even join you. Madrid's nightlife can be summed up in two words: spontaneity and fun.You need only visit places like the Berlin Caberet to realize that here, anything is pos-
sible. At this caberet you'll see drag queens sitting next to top executives at the bar, a perfectly normal combination during your night out on the town in Madrid. The Literary Quarter has traditionally been a preferred night-time destination for those who just arrived to the city, but don't forget about the other emblematic neighbourhoods such as Gran Vía, La Latina, Lavapiés, Chueca and Malasaña.
Good atmosphere: Café del Cosaco (Alfonso VI, 4). A good place to chat and they don't serve your drinks in a tubo (tall glass)! They also serve you gummies with your drinks, a fun little detail.
Teresa Sapey Interior designer. Best decor: Bar Cock (Reina, 16) is a must, it has a precious English flair. It's now 90 years old. And after midnight they restrict who comes in.
Daniel Canogar Artist. Best terrace: Any bar on Calle Argumosa (in Lavapiés). People get very excited when they start to see nice weather in springtime, day and night.
148-151 GUIA NOCHE 3.indd 150
On the terrace all year round The terraces of Plaza de la Paja, Plaza del Dos de Mayo and Plaza de Oriente, as well as one found in hotels and skyscrapers, attract those who prefer to enjoy a breath of fresh air no matter what the weather.
A bit of charm Strolling through Hapsburg Madrid you'll find some of the most charming places in the city hidden in tiny plazas or situated in a staircase. It's too good to be true!
Groove scene Gurus Many spots that championed the Movida MadrileĂąa groove scene in the 80s are still open; two iconic venues, La Sala Sol and El Penta, still have people lining up round the block to get in and listen to good music.
NO CURFEW If you're all about dominating the dance floor, Madrid's many nightclubs will help you imagine that the night will never end... Hip nightclubs inevitably draw the boldest and most fashionable of the bunch â€“ those who want to see and be seen. However, these venues also attract those who just want to let loose to the rhythm of the music. From the most exclusive to the most popular,
meeting up at these clubs is essential to discovering the hidden secrets of Madrid's world famous nightlife. And now, nights have their own names, with varying themes to attract the most faithful of night owls who seemingly never stop dancing.
148-151 GUIA NOCHE 3.indd 151
HOW TO GET THERE BY AIR Barajas
When the T4 terminal opened in 2006, Barajas became one of the world's most modern airports. It is outstanding for the amazing architecture of Richard Rogers, as well as its high e!ciency and its shopping mall replete with international brands. The opening of T4 lightened the load of the other three terminals, which now have faster check-in, an important point for the busiest airport in Spain and the ďƒžfth busiest in Europe. OneWorld operates in T4, whereas SkyTeam and StarAlliance operate in T1 and T2.
GETTING THERE BY METRO
GETTING THERE BY TAXI
From Nuevos Ministerios on line 8, it takes about 20 minutes to get to T4 and only 12 minutes to the other three terminals. The airport fare supplement is 1 euro.
Barajas airport is only 12 kilometres northeast of the city. From the centre of Madrid, expect to pay a fare of about 30 euros. GETTING THERE BY CAR
GETTING THERE BY BUS
Airport Express bus: This new service runs 24 hours a day. It leaves from Atocha between 6am and 11.30pm and from Plaza de Cibeles at night.
You can get to the airport from the city's main road routes, including the A1 and A2, M-40, M11 and R2. PARKING
Shuttle bus: Free service connecting the terminals. Every 5 minutes from 6.30am to 11.30pm, every 20 minutes from 11.30pm - 1.50am, and every 40 minutes from 1.50am - 6.30am.
Barajas has more than 10,000 parking spaces in seven parking areas by the di"erent terminals to make your trip more comfortable.
152-153 TRANSPORTE 3.indd 152
Atocha and Chamartín Trains will take you to Madrid from wherever you are. These two stations are at the heart of the vast Spanish rail network, which includes the high-speed AVE lines connecting to the French high-speed lines. Suburban trains connect Atocha and Chamartín, and service the city centre with the new Sol station. Atocha is being extended and is poised to become the new Barajas with an estimated 36 million travellers in 2025. AVE The high-speed train is the most convenient and comfortable way to travel to 21 Spanish cities including Barcelona, Valencia, Seville, Zaragoza, Toledo, Segovia, Cuenca, Cordoba and Malaga, at reasonable prices. SHORT-HAUL Short-haul trains
connect Madrid to the other main Spanish cities and the Trenhotel to Galicia o!ers a comfortable trip in a sleeper compartment.
ON WHEELS Madrid is the central hub of the country, thus the six national road links converge here. The city also has an extensive network of ring roads around it. Many coach companies also connect the capital to other main Spanish and European cities. The largest long-distance bus stations are Estación Sur and Avenida de América.
HOW TO GET AROUND METRO
You won't nd a more comfortable way of getting around Madrid or nearby areas. The metro is quick and covers a vast area as one of Europe's most complete and a!ordable underground systems.
The quickest and healthiest way to discover Madrid is by bicycle and every year you'll see more bike lanes around town. The top bike lanes are the one in Calle Serrano and the Anillo Verde Ciclista (Green Ring for Cyclists), a 65-kilometre loop around the city.
LINES There are 12 lines and
three metro ligero tramway lines in the outlying districts. They will take you to all areas of the city, as well as some nearby towns.
BUS If you want to comfortably enjoy the view as you travel around, the bus is for you. What's more, they're everywhere. Buses run from 6am to 11.30pm, but there are also 27 Búho (owl) services leaving from Plaza de Cibeles at night. The Madrid Transportation Authority (EMT) also provides an iPhone/smartphone application that will tell you when the next bus is due to arrive.
TAXI There are more than 15,000 taxis in Madrid; many will allow you to pay by credit card and have GPS to ensure they don't lose their way. You can catch them at taxi ranks or on the street, or you can call them. One will always be close by, and the prices are a!ordable.
TOURIST TRAVEL PASS For visitors like you who are keen to explore the city, this pass allows unlimited use of all the public transport systems within the Region of Madrid. RATES The pass for zone A (within
city limits) is 6 euros for one day and 25 euros for seven days. The pass for zone T (regional) costs 12 to 50 euros.
PARKING Although driving through downtown Madrid can be a hassle, there are a good number of public and private car parks. If you park on the street, keep in mind that the parking authority limits the time you can stay parked Monday to Friday from 9am to 8pm and on Saturday from 9am to 3pm. The cost of a ticket from the parking meters varies depending on the time spent and if the parking space is for visitors or residents.
152-153 TRANSPORTE 3.indd 153
AVERAGE ANNUAL TEMPERATURE (in ºC)
ANNUAL RAINFALL INDEX (l/m2)
A dry climate with relatively little precipitation means any time of year is excellent for getting to know the city. Spring gives you mild temperatures and the chance to see Madrid's ora in all its glory; while summer is hotter but more peaceful because of the holiday. Autumn tints the landscape with wonderful ochre tones. Winter is the time to rug up, as the temperature averages six degrees centigrade, but snowfall is rare. And all year round you'll be able to enjoy the famous and picturesque Madrid sky.
FESTIVALS Few cities rival Madrid in the celebration of its festivals. Festivities kick o! on 2 May with el día de la Comunidad. Shortly after on 15 May, the most traditional celebration takes place for San Isidro in the famous eld that bears his name. The month of August is a party. After San Cayetano and San Lorenzo on 7 and 10 August, which are not holidays, comes La Paloma on 15 August. And 9 November is the day to celebrate the female patron saint of the city, the Virgen de la Almudena. During Holy Week you can enjoy concerts and beautiful processions, whilst around Christmas you'll see Christmas markets and lights, the New Year's Eve party in Sol and the Three Wise Men parade.
-10 -5 0
5 10 15 20 25 30 35
ACCESSIBILITY METRO Sixty percent of stations have lifts, and half of the carriages comply with the accessibility laws. EUROTAXI These taxis have the same fares as the others but are suitable for people with disabilities. Telephone: 915 478 600/010. GUIDED TOURS The city organises free guided tours adapted to any disability. Telephone: 915 881 636. CULTURE The main museums, theatres and cultural centres are adapted to meet the needs of people with disabilities.
HOURS Small shops usually open from 10am to 8.30pm closing for a lunch break in the afternoon between 2.30pm and 5pm. Depart-
10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90
ment stores and larger chains are open all day and stay open later. Keen shoppers are in luck downtown: stores open every day, including holidays (except Christmas and New Year's Day). In other areas, be sure to take advantage of the rst Sunday of the month, when almost every store is open. Furthermore, 24-hour pharmacies are becoming more common.
WI-FI As part of its commitment to innovation, Madrid o!ers free Wi-Fi connections in three emblematic squares, Plaza Santo Domingo, Plaza Olavide and Plaza Mayor. There is also free Wi-Fi on all city buses and in public buildings such as libraries and markets. Some marked news kiosks and various cafés around the city have also been set up as Wi-Fi hotspots.
154 DATOS OTROS 3.indd 154
The Madrid Card is indispensable for your visit to Madrid. You can enjoy its advantages at a wide range of the citys tourist and cultural attractions.
Museums and Monuments
Entry to over 50 museums
and monuments in Madrid (including the Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza and Reina Sofía museums, with priority admission).
Includes admission to the
Bernabéu Tour, Atlético de Madrid Tour and Las Ventas Bullring Tour. The Essential Madrid guided tour from the Discover Madrid programme.
Discounts and free gifts in major stores.
Big discounts at leading restaurants.
Discounts for flamenco shows, cafés with live music and nightclubs.
You can buy the card in: City Council Tourist Information Centres Museums Hotels Travel agencies Spanish and International tour operators Buy online: esmadrid.com/madridcard