ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 February 17–23, 2017
Chris Santos’s New Cookbook,
‘Share’ on D6
The Weinstein Special with red wine-braised lamb, pecorino, porcini, and chocolate.
Beets and Roasted Carrots with harissawhipped feta, pistachios, and golden raisins. Hot Fried Eggplant with lime yogurt and shiso leaf.
Behind Every Dish
The Cure rice bowl with duck confit, poached egg, pickled daikon, Sriracha, and hoisin sauce.
Razor Clams “Kervens” with smoked bacon, panko breadcrumbs, and Calabrian chilies.
From rhyming ingredients to riffs on classics, what inspires Rider’s Patrick Connolly By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
good artist can take inspiration from anywhere. For chef Patrick Connolly, anything from daily life can inspire a dish at Rider, the Williamsburg restaurant he owns. The Weinstein Special, for example, is a dish that was inspired from accompanying his wife on many visits to the doctor’s office while she was pregnant with their daughter. Connolly often brought Dr. Weinstein a lunch of pappardelle, but it didn’t travel well and got too soggy en route. So Connolly
switched to rigatoni. The noodles are coated with pecorino, orange zest, dark chocolate, porcini mushroom, and red wine-braised lamb neck. The deep flavors in the braising sauce—which gain extra power from burnt star anise and cinnamon, coupled with a hint of bitterness in the chocolate—make this the ultimate bowl to chase away the winter blues. The Weinstein Special is one of many new additions to the menu for this season ($18). See Rider on D5
There’s playfulness to the way Connolly layers textures in his dishes.
80 N. Sixth St. (at Wythe Avenue) Williamsburg, Brooklyn RiderBklyn.com
Hours Breakfast: Monday–Friday 8 a.m.–11 a.m. Lunch: Monday–Friday 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Dinner: Tuesday–Thursday 5 p.m.–10 p.m. Friday & Saturday 5 p.m.–11 p.m. Weekend Brunch: 11 a.m.–4 p.m.
February 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
C-CAP Gala Raises Funds for Aspiring Young Chefs By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
There are the restaurants you go to, and
The Restaurant You Go Back to.
n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan recipes. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular longtime local guests, out-of-towners
and the many celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available, pre-fixe luncheon menu noon till 3 p.m. ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3 p.m. till 7 p.m. ($59).
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant
236 West 56th Street Our Only (212) 247-3491 Location! www.Patsys.com
Every year, New York’s top chefs gather for the C-CAP (Careers Through Culinary Arts Program) benefit gala. The reason for their unwavering participation? To support after-school and professional culinary programs for high school students who aspire to become chefs. This year’s gala honors chef Michael Anthony of Untitled and Gramercy Tavern. “I see my job as a chef as principally encouraging young people to join our profession and to open new avenues for potential growth. The restaurant and hospitality industry is continuing to grow at a record-breaking pace, and there’s an over-
whelming need for trained and ambitious staff,” said Anthony of his reasons for supporting C-CAP. Over 36 chefs will be preparing dishes at this year’s gala, including Daniel Boulud (Boulud restaurants), Carla Hall (Carla Hall’s Southern Kitchen); John Fraser (Dovetail); Missy Robbins (Lilia); Maria Loi (Loi Estiatorio); Leah Cohen (Pig and Khao); David Burke (Tavern62); and more. Several C-CAP alums who have gone on to work at New York’s top kitchens will also cook at the gala, such as Cesar Gutierrez of Café Boulud, Betty Peña of Pig and Khao, and Yvan Lemoine of Union Fare. $600 to $1,000 per person.
FAT TUESDAY BOUCHERIE AT THE CANNIBAL The Cannibal chef Francis Derby has gathered chefs together to throw a Mardi Gras party in the New Orleans tradition, with a boucherie, or hog-butchering party. Billy Durney from Hometown Bar B Que, Hooni Kim of Danji and Hanjan, Dale Talde from Three Kings Restaurant Group, Adrienne Gagnier from Cook Shop, and more will each be preparing a pork dish. Beverage director Bill Brooks from The Cannibal Liquor House will be pouring New Orleans classic drinks, such as Sazaracs, Hurricanes, Zombies, and more. $125 per person.
(Left) Attendees sample dishes by top chefs at last year’s C-CAP gala. (Right) Chef Marcus Samuelsson.
Wednesday, March 8 5:45 p.m.–9 p.m. Chelsea Piers at Pier Sixty At 23rd Street & West Side Highway Chelsea CCAPInc.org
Tuesday, Feb. 28 3 p.m.–10 p.m. The Cannibal 113 E. 29th St. (between Park Avenue South & Lexington Avenue) Kips Bay Eventbrite.com (search “The Cannibal”)
Chef-restaurateur Michael White’s SoHo spot is now serving lunch. Salads, sandwiches, and pastas abound, from the Bistecca e Uovo salad with hangar steak, warm radicchio, charred onion, pancetta, croutons, balsamico, and fried egg; the Cacio e Pepe salad with romaine lettuce, garlic breadcrumbs, Parmigiano, and anchovy vinaigrette; the Panini Petroniana with veal cutlet, prosciutto, Parmigiano, truffle cream, and spinach; and Tortelli, ricotta ravioli with pomodoro sauce and basil.
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients.
WILD GAME FESTIVAL AT SEL ET POIVRE
COURTESY OF OSTERIA MORINI
OSTERIA MORINI LAUNCHES LUNCH
Bistecca e Uovo salad. Osteria Morini 218 Lafayette St. (between Broome & Spring streets) SoHo OsteriaMorini.com
The French bistro has launched a limited-time menu featuring wild game. The options include grilled venison sausage; oven-roasted stuffed quail with goat cheese, port wine reduction, sweet potato purée, and wild rice; medallions of New Zealand red deer with red wine sauce, spätzle, and cranberries; and antelope burger served with French fries and red wine sauce.
Through midMarch Sel et Poivre 853 Lexington Ave. (between 64th & 65th streets) Upper East Side SelEtPoivreNYC. com
• Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
MEATPACKING DISTRICT’S OPEN MARKET 246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
Open Market is an annual festival to raise money for improving the Meatpacking neighborhood. Local boutique shops will set up booths for guests to shop at sample sale prices, while restaurants and eateries will provide refreshments, including Ample Hills Creamery, Fig and Olive, Bubby’s, Scarpetta, High Street on Hudson, Sweetgreen, Morimoto NYC, Untitled, The Wild Son, and more. There will also be a silent auction. $150 to $350 per person.
COURTESY OF THE MEATPACKING DISTRICT
Mixing drinks at last year’s Open Market. Thursday, March 9 6 p.m.–10 p.m. Highline Stages 441 W. 14th St. (between Ninth & 10th avenues) Meatpacking District Meatpacking-District.com
February 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com
ROOFTOP BUBBLES OPEN FOR WINTER AT BAR 54
Bar 54 At Hyatt Centric Times Square 135 W. 45th St. (between Sixth & Seventh avenues) Times Square TimesSquare.Centric. Hyatt.com
Bar 54, the rooftop bar atop the Hyatt Centric hotel in Times Square, has opened its bubble igloos for the winter season. The transparent enclosures are heated to allow guests rooftop views despite frigid temperatures. While the bar’s full food and drinks menu is available, the bar also has special packages, with two glasses of PiperHeidsieck champagne and chef’s appetizer selection for $60, or a bottle of the champagne with a VIP platter for $125. Each bubble accommodates up to 10 people.
AVRA MADISON ESTIATORIO OPENS FOR BRUNCH
Avra Madison Estiatorio 14 E. 60th St. (between Fifth & Madison avenues) Upper East Side AvraNY.com
Greek restaurant Avra Madison is now open for brunch on weekends. Offerings are a Greek twist on brunch classics, such as the Seafood Hash with lobster, crabmeat, shrimp, potatoes, onion, and a fried egg on top; a breakfast pita with scrambled eggs, chopped bacon, onions, and cheddar cheese in a baked pita; and Baklava with farmhouse granola, brown sugar, maple syrup, and milk or yogurt.
NYC FERMENTATION FESTIVAL The first-ever New York festival devoted to fermented foods will be held in late February at the Brooklyn Expo Center. More than 30 different vendors like Mama O’s Premium Kimchi, Marcelli Formaggi, Kombrewcha, and Cleveland Kraut will be on-site to hand out samples of their products. Experts will hold seminars on fermenting foods at home, while DIY aficionados will organize meetups at the event. Locally brewed beers, ciders, and spirits will be available. $20 per person.
SAMURAI PIE AT DINNERTABLE Under chef Ricardo Arias, the East Village speakeasy restaurant is now serving a winter special: the Samurai Pie, a Japanese twist on shepherd’s pie. It is filled with wagyu beef cooked in a Japanese curry sauce with carrots, edamame, and mashed potatoes. $38.
Weekend Pick WARREN JAGGER
WE’RE MORE THAN MEATS THE PLATE Avra Madison.
GAME NIGHT AT THE ROSE CLUB The Plaza hotel’s lounge and bar, The Rose Club, is starting a trivia game night series. While teams of four to six are competing on questions ranging from pop culture to New York history, The Rose Club will serve drinks and small bites. For the first night of the series, falling on Mardi Gras, a special snack tier will offer New Orleans eats like lump crab cakes po’boy sandwiches with remoulade and shaved fennel on a brioche bun; and mini muffuletta sandwiches with olive salad, mortadella, salami, provolone, mozzarella, and Parma ham on a focaccia bun ($55). Big Easy cocktails like Sazerac, Vieux Carré, and Pimm’s Cup will be available. For reservations, email ThePlazaRSVP@bullfrogandbaum.com
BARBECUE SPECIALS AT SHAKE SHACK For a limited time, fast-casual chain Shake Shack will be serving burgers and fries coated with barbecue sauce. The specials are the BBQ ShackMeister, with Angus beef, cheese, crispy ale-marinated shallots, and Shack barbecue sauce; the BBQ Chick’n Shack with chicken breast, Shack barbecue sauce, and pickles; and BBQ Bacon Cheese Fries, with smoked Niman Ranch bacon, Shack barbecue sauce, and cheese sauce. All Shake Shack locations ShakeShack.com
WORLD TRADE CENTER 136 Washington Street 212.608.0171
HACKENSACK One Riverside Square 201.487.1303
GREAT NECK 777 Northern Boulevard 516.498.2950
WHITE PLAINS 9 Maple Avenue 914.683.6101
Tuesday, Feb. 28 The Rose Club At The Plaza 768 Fifth Ave. (between 58th & 59th streets) Midtown ThePlazaNY.com
ATOBOY LAUNCHES CART SERVICE
Modern Korean restaurant Atoboy will now be serving dinner every night, with a cart that will allow diners to pick from a daily rotating selection of kimchi, jangajji (Korean pickles), namul (Korean seasoned vegetables), and other special banchan (side) dishes. They include foie gras mandoo (dumplings), soy sauce egg with shiitake mushrooms, cheese ramen, oxtail stew with wild sesame, and scallion-mozzarella pancakes. Atoboy 43 E. 28th St. (between Madison Avenue & Park Avenue South) NoMad AtoboyNYC.com COURTESY OF ATOBOY
The BBQ ShackMeister.
MIDTOWN 551 Fifth Avenue 212.972.3315
Atoboy’s cart service is available every night.
HAUTE PRIVATE EVENTS There are private events in Manhattan, and then there are private events at Cava Nerai. Head downstairs to our new romantic stone wine cellar— born from the idea to provide you with the finest setting possible for private events. Whether you’re having a business meeting with partners, entertaining those special clients, or throwing the perfect baby shower, Cava Nerai has the customizable space you need—and an excellent wine selection sure to make the occasion memorable.
55 E. 54th St. New York, NY 10022 Nerai.NYC
212.759.5554 Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
Saturday, Feb. 25 11 a.m.–3:30 p.m. Brooklyn Expo Center 72 Noble St. (at Franklin Street) Greenpoint, Brooklyn Eventbrite.com (search “Fermentation Festival”)
Dinnertable 206 Avenue A (near 13th Street) East Village DinnerTable.nyc
February 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around NYC PHOTOS COURTESY OF AVENA
Charlie Palmer Steak New York Now Open at Archer Hotel Charlie Palmer Steak New York’s new home at the street level of the Archer Hotel, relocated from its former location at 5 E. 54th St. The culinary team is led by executive chef Ryan Lory, who has worked at Charlie Palmer Steak since its 2014 opening. The menu draws upon ingredients from the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic states, and includes beverages from local distillers, brewers, and artisanal winemakers. Highlights include a Truffled French Omelet for breakfast, with robiola, wild mushrooms, and fresh shaved truffles; a Doughnut Wheel with three varieties of donuts (yeast donuts, chocolate yeast, and almond-
Chef Roberto Deiaco to Open Avena in Midtown Roberto Deiaco, the chef behind Armani Ristorante and East 12th Osteria, will open his new restaurant Avena in Midtown. The grand opening is scheduled for Feb. 20. The modern Italian menu makes use of organic and biodynamic ingredients and features highlights such as Vitello Tonnato, cooked sous vide for hours, or Crudi di Mare, with raw langoustine, Reinette apples, and citrus topped with Italian sturgeon caviar. The signature breadbasket will feature breads made with unbleached, organic Ital-
(Left) Crudi di Mare. (Right) Scallop with truffles.
ian flour, baked fresh when you order. Deiaco is excited to be serving dishes with pasta prepared with unusual flours, such as kamut, “made from the ancient grain that Egyptian pharaohs favored,” he said. Kamut will be featured in, for example, the Pantelleria Pesto and the Kamut Taglierini Pasta With Cernia Nera di Fondale (a Mediterranean black bass). The restaurant seats 120. Guests can find a fireplace on the second floor. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
141 E. 57th St. (at Lexington Avenue) Midtown AvenaRestaurant. com
Mokbar Focuses on Korean Home-Style Dishes at New Brooklyn Location Chelsea Market mainstay Mokbar had made its move to Brooklyn near Barclays Center with Korean home-style food. Chef and owner Esther Choi will still offer her signature Korean-inflected ramen dishes but will expand into jip bap meals (“jip” meaning house and “bap” meaning rice, and more generally, “food”). The dishes are meant to be individual, rather than communal, with a protein-centered dish accompanied by smaller vegetable dishes. The offerings include Kalbi Jim, braised short rib
marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil, spices, and Asian pear; Samchi Jorim, salted mackerel simmered in spicy soy sauce with daikon radish; and Kimchi Jaeyook, thin slices of spicy pork and caramelized kimchi. Another section of the menu focuses on anju, essentially dishes meant to be eaten alongside drinks, such as the Ho Cake—a savory version of a traditional sweet street food in Korea, filled with pork belly and served with kimchi hot sauce. The restaurant seats 60.
New Dig Inn Opens in Theater District
toast, and different types of hearty bowls. The Melting Broth menu continues the theme of the no-bone broth from last year. Made with leftover vegetable trimmings and kombu seaweed, the broth is available in a cup (in matcha-coconut tonic or hot lemon, egg, and cayenne flavors), or in a hearty bowl (with pesto chicken and brown rice, or spicy curried kale and farro). The Melting Broth is available at all New York locations this winter season.
A Dig Inn is now open in the Theater District. The new breakfast menu is served there, and includes a gluten-free quinoa waffle with ricotta, egg sandwich, avocado
212 Flatbush Ave. (at Bergen Street) Near Barclays Center, Brooklyn 347-987-3042 Mokbar.com
856 Eighth Ave. (between West 51st & West 52nd streets) Theater District DigInn.com
McDonald’s Gets a French Makeover Parlez-vous McDo? A Chelsea location of McDonald’s has gone French. After undergoing a complete renovation based on an existing concept that originated in France, the outpost now sports touch-screen ordering kiosks with concierges to guide customers, an airy modern look (think raw wood and open counters), and French-inspired pastries. “We are on a journey to modernize our restaurants,” said Gino Potesta,
Fans of the shaved ice dessert shop, rejoice: Snowdays has opened a flagship sit-down cafe near Barclays Center in Brooklyn, to serve plated desserts and drinks alongside their signature shaved ice treats. Dubbed Snowdays Cafe, the shop will serve Intelligensia coffee, flavored hot chocolates, iced coffee drinks, and desserts like matcha brownie made with ceremonial grade Japanese matcha and white chocolate; condensed milk brioche toast, with a sugar-crusted top; and Snowffagato, a take on affogato served with espresso and Snowdays’ sweet milk shaved cream. Snowdays’ milk-based shaved ice—made using upstate New York dairy—is called shaved cream, to reflect the combination of the fluffy texture in Asian
14 Delancey St. (between Chrystie Street & Bowery) Lower East Side 212-274-9179 CeciCelaNYC.com Hours Sunday–Thursday 8 a.m.–8 p.m. Friday & Saturday 8 a.m.–9 p.m.
Chef Laurent Dupal.
At Archer Hotel 47 W. 38th St. (between Fifth & Sixth avenues) Midtown West 212-302-3838 CharliePalmer.com
vice president and general manager of McDonald’s New York Metro Region. Some of the pastry items—which can also be found at one other McDonald’s location on Chambers Street—include croissants, chocolatines (akin to mini-chocolate croissants), a “next gen” warm apple pie with a lattice crust, coffee cakes, and muffin tops (blueberry, lemon poppyseed). Handcrafted sundaes will be launched later this year.
809 Sixth Ave. (at 28th Street) Chelsea McDonaldsNYTriState.com
shaved ice treats with the creaminess of ice cream. The new cafe also includes a cereal bar, where you can order different cereals (Lucky Charms, Honey Bunches of Oats, Cap’n Crunch, and more) with your choice of milk and assorted toppings like fresh fruit, nuts, Oreos, mochi, and sweet sauces. Open Monday to Thursday, from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.; and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.
214 Flatbush Ave. (near Bergen Street) Boerum Hill, Brooklyn 347-294-0267 SnowdaysNYC.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp & Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Perhaps it’s only natural that French pastry chef Laurent Dupal would wax poetic about eating a croissant. “When they are warm and right out of the oven, it’s an unforgettable moment,” he said. “It’s imprinted onto the brain.” Dupal, who has been making croissants and other French baked goods at the Lower East Side’s Ceci Cela for more than 25 years, knows exactly what makes a perfect croissant: flaky on the outside, a little chewy on the inside, with just a hint of butter flavor. “When you eat it, crumbles have to fall down,” he said.
Charlie Palmer Steak New York
Snowdays Opens Brooklyn Flagship Dessert Cafe
A Dream of a Croissant By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
dusted, with three dipping sauces); the 50-50 Burger (with a patty of ground bacon and beef, caramelized onion jam, and pepper jack cheese); and an A5 Kobe Strip from Miyazaki, Japan. Several handmade pasta specials will be available each day. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Making croissants is a three-day process at Ceci Cela, which bakes around 20,000 croissants per week for both wholesale around the city and its own retail shop. The pastry is notorious for requiring laborious folding and rolling of many dough layers. The French consider this deceptively simple pastry their quintessential breakfast item, usually eating it unadorned or occasionally with a bit of butter and jam, or sometimes paired with an omelette, Dupal said. Back in France, everyone has a local boulangerie that’s their go-to spot. Dupal recalls that after coming home from a late night out, he often would knock on the door of his local boulangerie in the wee hours of the morning, asking if the baker had any croissants coming out of the oven. “You have to have a good relationship [with the baker],” he said. Dupal’s croissant is a wonderful rendition: It makes a loud crunch as you bite into it; then, as you reach the fluffiness within, the lightly sweet aroma of butter is released. He also makes a chocolate-almond version, with a marzipan-like nuttiness and smooth chocolate, and a savory version stuffed with ham and cheese. In the line of viennoiserie, a category of French pastries made from leavened dough, Dupal also makes a fantastic orange brioche bun. The dough is flavored with orange zest, while the inside is filled with delicious pastry cream.
February 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF RIDER; ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
3 1 The dishes
capture many flavors in one.
2 Chef Patrick Connolly.
3 Rider’s bar
and counter seating.
4 Chocolate Tart.
5 Skate Wing
Behind Every Dish
Rider continued from D1 Although Rider opened in March last year, Connolly is actually a veteran of the New York dining scene. Several years ago, he was the executive chef at Bobo, a Greenwich Village restaurant. He returned to his hometown of St. Louis briefly while waiting for a project with National Sawdust, a nonprofit artist residency program in Williamsburg, to take off. In 2015, he headed back to New York to open Rider, located within the same building as National Sawdust. In addition to handling the catering for the private events space, Rider also serves a menu of small bites for show attendees to nibble on while watching performances. The restaurant is split between two floors, but feels intimate. The ground level features a bar, counter seats, and a few tables against minimalist decor, while the upper level has banquette seating. Connolly, who won a James Beard award for best chef in the Northeast region while cooking in Boston, said his process for composing dishes is to keep experimenting and asking if anything is missing: “Is there texture? Is there balance?” There are no rules, but he must ensure that each dish is a “complete thought,” he said. The Hot Fried Eggplant dish embodies that spirit, bite after bite of satisfying flavors. There’s a backstory here, too: its first iteration was a dish created last summer, when Connolly’s produce purveyor had heaps of fairytale eggplants that went unsold. Connolly bought
Whatever you pick from the menu, chances are, you’ll like it a lot.
Hot Fried Eggplant with lime yogurt and shiso leaf.
the bunch and got to work on a dish. Crispy and tender at the same time, the pieces of eggplant are seasoned with a bevy of spices: cayenne, paprika, and Japanese togarashi (chili flakes, nori flakes, orange zest, sesame seeds) that has been spiked with brown sugar. Their lip-burning heat is tempered by bits of shiso leaf, dollops of lime-infused yogurt, and drizzled honey on top ($14). Meanwhile, the Razor Clams “Kervens” is named after a cook in the kitchen who likes to venture to the casino on occasion. The dish is a riff on the New England Italian-American classic, clams casino. The razor clams are baked with panko breadcrumbs, Meyer lemon (pith, pulp, and all), Parmesan, smoky bacon, and Calabrian chilies, for a flawless marriage of spicy and tart ($17). There’s playfulness to the way Connolly layers textures in his dishes. In a dish of duck breast, the skin is coated with hazelnuts for extra crunch ($22). Accompanying the duck are gooey dates stuffed with nduja and curls of parsnip that exercise the jaw. A crisp breaded schnitzel of skate wing— which is uncharacteristically meaty for a sea creature—is accompanied by tenderly roasted cauliflower and gribiche, a mustard-based French sauce with chunky bits of egg, capers, and herbs ($19). Sometimes, the names of ingredients can spark inspiration. When Connolly realized broccoli raab and pork laab—a Thai dish of toasted rice, ground pork, chilies, and herbs wrapped in lettuce—rhymed, he decided to
Taste the beauty of artful Thai cuisine
LAUNCHING A (212) 888-2899 1122 1st Avenue, New York, NY 10065 www.thenuaa.com
BRAND NEW MENU
Schnitzel with cauliflower and gribiche sauce.
The restaurant’s name refers to a set of requests or demands given by musicians in their contracts when performing gigs.
put them together. The mashup of flavors representing two different parts of the world is unexpected, but delicious—the potent funkiness of fish sauce and garlic peanut sauce mingling with bitter broccoli raab and chorizolike bits of pork ($14). Connolly has a penchant for incorporating Asian flavors, which he learned to do while exploring the food markets in Boston’s Chinatown when he worked there. On Rider’s breakfast menu, The Cure calls to mind Korean bibimbap: crispy rice, cilantro, pickled daikon, poached egg, and confit duck, mixed with lots of sesame seeds, hoisin sauce, and sriracha. It’s a combination that can’t go wrong ($15). Dessert, prepared by pastry chef Lisa Fernandez-Cruz, also stimulates many sensations at once. The chocolate tart—its texture resembling that of a brownie—is topped with a hazelnut crunch that crackles like chocolate praline, and a scoop of cinnamon-fresno chili ice cream that kicks the back of your throat moments later ($13). The Tahini Semifreddo is a smooth frozen treat rich in sesame flavor, layered with a miso-caramel drizzle, chunks of honeycrisp apples, and ginger snap cookies ($13). But if you’re feeling like having a heftier pastry to end the meal, the lemon-fennel doughnuts are a winner ($13). That’s the thing with Rider: Whatever you pick from the menu, chances are, you’ll like it a lot. And you’ll want to come back to try the rest.
February 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY QUENTIN BACON
Please Pass the Dish By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
The book’s pantry section reads like a traveling foodie’s souvenir list.
hris Santos wants you to ditch your forks and knives. It’s the way he cooks— preparing food meant to be grasped with your fingers and passed around. His new cookbook, “Share: Delicious and Surprising Recipes to Pass Around Your Table,” (Grand Central Life & Style, $40) written with Rick Rodgers, offers recipes for some of his signature dishes served at his restaurants (Beauty & Essex, The Stanton Social, Vandal). It features old favorites, taken in a different direction with “whimsical and irreverent twists,” according to Santos. Think “Grilled Cheese” Dumplings in Tomato Soup and Crab Corn Dog With Old Bay Aioli, for example. Some of the inspiration is derived from street
food from around the world, so it’s no wonder that the book’s pantry section reads like a traveling foodie’s souvenir list: ancho chili, smoked paprika, harissa, chunjang (a fermented Korean black bean paste), fish sauce, miso, sambal oelek (Indonesian ground chili paste), and sriracha, among others. You eventually will need forks and knives. His entrees beckon as much as his starters, with recipes like Wasabi Pea-Crusted Salmon With Soba Noodle and Beet Salad, Pork Belly Carbonara, and Twice-Cooked Eggplant With Cilantro-Sesame Pesto. Some recipes are more complex, but carefully detailed instructions and additional chef’s notes help. For a foodie, the extra effort will be worth it. “At the end of the day, life is too short for boring food,” Santos writes.
RECIPE TWICE-COOKED EGGPLANT WITH CILANTRO-SESAME PESTO Serves 4 When people say that they don’t like eggplant, I tell them they just haven’t tried my eggplant.
SO FRESH! WE NOW DELIVER!
Eggplant chunks are first roasted for a lightly caramelized flavor, then finished in a wok with a myriad of Asian flavors. Authentic & Delicious Tacos Huaraches Chile Relleno Chilaquile Rojos Made to order
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at el Pote
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Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
Dark purple globe eggplant works well here, but the narrow Japanese variety is my preference because it is sweeter. If you wish, use the Asian Pesto on page 79 instead of the cilantro pesto below.
For the Roasted Eggplant • 1 1/2 pounds Japanese eggplant, cut into 1-inch chunks • 2 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper For the Cilantro-Sesame Pesto • 2 garlic cloves, crushed under a knife and peeled • 2 cups packed fresh cilantro leaves • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice • 2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil • 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted (see Note) • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper For the Sriracha-Orange Mayonnaise • 2 tablespoons mayonnaise,
• • • • • • •
preferably Kewpie (see Chef Talk, below) 1 teaspoon sriracha 1 teaspoon fresh orange juice 1 teaspoon Japanese soy sauce 2 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil 2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted (see Note) 2 tablespoons packed cilantro leaves 1 teaspoon sesame seeds, toasted (see Note)
DIRECTIONS 1. To roast the eggplant: Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425 F. 2. Toss the eggplant with the oil in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Spread on an 18-by-13-inch half-sheet pan. Roast, stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely. (The eggplant can be covered and stored at room temperature for up to 4 hours.)
Serves 6 I order chicken wings any time I see them on a menu, and this recipe will make you realize just how incredible they can be. After a lot of trial and error, when I finally got the rub right, I felt like I had unlocked a magic puzzle. There are a lot of ingredients in the rub, but they provide a perfect mix of sugar and spice, and the bourbon-spiked sauce coats the wings in yet another layer of bold flavor. If you prefer the grill to the oven, grill the wings over medium indirect heat (about 400 F) for about 40 minutes, until they are almost done, before adding the sauce.
For the Barbecue Sauce • 1 cup store-bought spicy barbecue sauce, such as Rattler BBQ Sauce • 1 cup tomato ketchup • 1/4 cup molasses (not blackstrap) • 1/2 cup bourbon, preferably Maker’s Mark • 1/2 cup honey • 2 tablespoons cider vinegar For the Smoky Rub • 1/3 cup packed light brown sugar • 1 tablespoon kosher salt • 1 tablespoon ground coriander seeds • 1 tablespoon sweet smoked paprika • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin • 1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme • 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger • 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
4. To make the mayonnaise: Whisk all of the ingredients together in a small bowl. Set aside for up to 1 hour. 5. To finish the eggplant: Heat a large wok or skillet over high heat. Add the oil and swirl the wok to coat the sides. Add the eggplant and spread it out in a single layer. Let cook until the underside is seared, about 1 minute. Stir-fry until hot, about 1 minute more. Remove the wok from the heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the pesto, the pine nuts, the cilantro leaves, and the sesame seeds. Transfer to a serving bowl, drizzle with the mayonnaise, and serve hot, with the remaining pesto passed on the side. (Leftover pesto is delicious stirred into plain steamed rice or used to flavor vinaigrette.) Note: To toast either sesame seeds or pine nuts, heat a small skillet over medium heat. Add the seeds (or pine nuts) and cook, stirring occasionally, until toasted, about 1 minute for the seeds or slightly longer for the pine nuts. Transfer to a plate and let cool completely.
3. To make the pesto: With the machine running, drop the garlic through the feed tube of a processor to mince it. Add the cilantro, lemon juice, sesame oil, and Chef Talk sesame seeds and process until puréed. Kewpie Mayonnaise With the machine running, pour the olive Kewpie is a brand of Japanese oil through the feed tube mayonnaise with a creamy texture to make a smooth and less tangy taste than American sauce. Season to mayo. It is sold at Asian markets taste with salt For Santos’s recipe and online. and pepper.
for White Sangria With Cranberry and Cucumber, see EpochTaste.com
RECIPE SMOKY RUBBED CHICKEN WINGS WITH HONEY, BOURBON, AND MOLASSES SAUCE
(The pesto can be covered tightly and stored at room temperature for up to 4 hours.)
• 3/4 teaspoon celery salt • 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper • 3/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper • 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard • 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder • 5 1/2 pounds chicken wingettes (see Note)
DIRECTIONS 1. To make the sauce: Bring all of the ingredients to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, whisking oft en. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, whisking occasionally to discourage scorching, until lightly thickened and reduced by about one-quarter, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. (The sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.) 2. To make the rub: Whisk all of the ingredients together in a small bowl. 3. Put the wingettes in a very large bowl and toss with the rub. Divide the wingettes among two 1-gallon selfsealing plastic bags, seal, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. 4. Position racks in the top third and center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400 F. Line two 18-by-13-inch half-sheet pans with aluminum foil for easy cleanup. 5. Spread the wingettes out on the baking sheets, spacing them well apart. Roast the wingettes, turning the wings over and switching the positions of the baking sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through cooking, until the wings are crisp and cooked through,
about 40 minutes. During the last 5 minutes, brush the wings with some of the sauce. Remove the wings from the oven. 6. Position a broiler about 8 inches from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high. In batches, broil the wings to caramelize the sauce in spots, about 3 minutes. Serve hot, with any left over sauce passed on the side. Note: Chicken wingettes are chicken wings that have been chopped between the joints, with the wing tips discarded. Many of the large poultry producers sell chicken wingettes. Fresh wingettes are better than the frozen ones, as the latter tend to be dry when baked. Or do it yourself: Chop whole chicken wings between the joints with a cleaver or heavy knife and discard the tips (or save them for another use, such as stock). Reprinted from “Share: Delicious and Surprising Recipes to Pass Around Your Table” by Chris Santos. Copyright 2017. Published by Grand Central Life & Style.
February 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff Epoch Times: The immediate association with Australian food is often flat white coffees and avocado on toast. What perceptions of Australian cuisine do you encounter when you travel? Neil Perry: I do think that in the main people underestimate how sophisticated Australian food is, and not just the food, but also the wine, service, and ambiance. Epoch Times: If there were an unofficial, one universally beloved, dish of Australia, what do you think it would be? Mr. Perry: Yes, it’s the quality and freshness of our ingredients, the amazing seafood, and our multilateralism. And although many countries may say that, I do believe our position in Asia, our love of Asian food and how we integrate that into our restaurants, is a hallmark of Australian cuisine. Epoch Times: If there were an unofficial dish of Australia, one universally beloved, what do you think it would be? Mr. Perry: I think it’s continually changing and evolving. Avo [avocado] toast wouldn’t have gotten a look 10 years ago, it will be something else in the next 10 years, but most importantly it will be fresh, light, and delicious. This is the centerpiece of Australian cooking, a light touch with quality products. Epoch Times: What are some regional Australian ingredients that visitors to Australia should absolutely experience? Mr. Perry: We have a number of great native ingredients like warrigal greens, saltbush, wattleseed, finger limes, lemon myrtle, lemon aspen, and so forth, but also the great seafood like Sydney rock oysters (best oyster in the world), abalone, local crayfish, marron, yabbies, Balmain bugs, pearl meat, Murray cod, coral trout, King George whiting, and things
COURTESY OF NEIL PERRY; BONCHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK (FINGER LIMES)
with Neil Perry
The Australian chef and television personality on Australia’s food ethos, native ingredients, and the influence of American chefs
Neil Perry is one of Australia’s most influential chefs.
like kangaroo—all of these are uniquely Australian. Epoch Times: Like in the United States, Australia’s food scene, through many waves of immigration, has been influenced by many different culinary traditions. Are there any that have significantly influenced your approach to cooking? Mr. Perry: Chinese and other Asian immigration. We have a long history since the 1830s of Chinese settlement in our country. The food and produce was probably the most exotic cuisine that Australians tasted until after World War II. Also, Italian and Greek immigration, and then the 1970 post-Vietnam War immigration, which hasn’t stopped. Vietnamese, Thai, Korean, and Japanese influences are now as strong as Chinese, and all these great cuisines influence me. Epoch Times: What do you miss about Australia (food or otherwise) when you’re traveling? Mr. Perry: It gets back to the freshness and the light touch that Australian chefs bring to their craft. I can really taste the difference when traveling, especially with seafood cookery, where I believe we really excel.
Aussie Natives WARRIGAL GREENS: Greens also known
and size of fingers
as native spinach SALTBUSH: A hardy shrub
LEMON ASPEN: A fruit with a citrusy,
WATTLESEED: The seeds of the Austral-
MARRON AND YABBIES: Types of fresh-
ian acacia tree, with a nutty, coffee flavor LEMON MYRTLE: A native herb with the aromas of lemon and lime
FINGER LIMES: A microcitrus in the shape
BALMAIN BUGS: A type of clawless lobster PEARL MEAT: A muscle in the pearl oys-
ter, a byproduct of pearl production
A HEALTHY TAKE ON THAI
Epoch Times: What American influences do you see on the dining scene back home, if any? Mr. Perry: Certainly pop culture, the rise of the hamburger, hipster food, Southern BBQ, wings, fried chicken, those sorts of things. However, I also feel that many of the great American chefs, like Thomas Keller, Wolfgang [Puck], and so on, have influenced us with their professionalism and dedication to quality.
Delicious & unique dishes you can’t find anywhere else, made with authentic spices and preparations. We offer a selection of organic meats and healthful side dishes like brown rice and quinoa.
Interview has been edited for brevity and clarity
Sole Meunière: How to Improve on Perfection By Sara Moulton Julia Child was able to remember the single most decisive moment in her life with photographic clarity. It was her first bite of her first meal in France, a fish dish called sole meunière. That first forkful, she wrote, was “a morsel of perfection,” and it set her on the path to becoming the Julia we’d come to know and love. Though it is indeed a classic of French cuisine, sole meunière—a filet of fish dipped in flour, then sauteed in butter—isn’t terribly complicated. But it’s one of those dishes that really benefits from attention to detail. And in the interest of improving on “perfection,” I’ve added a few new details. Let’s start with the fish. Julia was served Dover sole. Thick, firm, and delicious, Dover sole is widely available in Europe, but not in the United States. In fact, much of the “sole” sold on these shores isn’t sole at all but a kind of flounder ... and much of that is endangered due to overfishing and should be avoided. So opt for Pacific flounder or Pacific sole, or just reach for any firm-fleshed white fish that is not endangered. Still, most white fish, even Dover sole, is a tad bland. Accordingly, sole meunière is always finished with a little pick-me-up of lemon and salt. This recipe starts with acid and salt in the form of a salty buttermilk brine, which deeply pre-seasons the fish. Given that we’ve added capers and lemon slices to this version, it’s more properly called sole grenobloise than sole meunière. Whatever it is, it’s delicious. Sara Moulton is host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.” Her latest cookbook is “Home Cooking 101.” From The Associated Press
THAIS NEW YORK
SARA MOULTON VIA AP
(btw 89 st. & 90 st.) NYC E Sarn Grilled Steak
T. 212.289.8889 www.ThaisNYC.com
SOLE MEUNIÈRE Prep & Cooking Time: 30 minutes plus 1 to 3 hours marinating time Serves 4 • 1 cup buttermilk • 1 teaspoon kosher salt • 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds firm white fish fillets • 1 small lemon • 3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil • 1/2 cup instantized flour • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into several pieces • 1 tablespoon drained capers • Chopped fresh parsley for garnish
DIRECTIONS In a re-sealable plastic bag combine the buttermilk and salt, and stir with a small whisk or fork until the salt is dissolved. Add the fish fillets, making sure they are coated with the buttermilk, seal the bag and place it in the refrigerator. Let the fish marinate for at least 1 hour and preferably 3 hours. While the fish is marinating, cut off the top and the bottom of the lemon. Place it on the cutting board cut-side down. Starting at the top, following the curve of the lemon, cut off the rind and the pith. Working over a small bowl to catch any juice, cut
between the membranes to separate the lemon into segments. Reserve both the segments and the juice. In a large nonstick skillet, heat half the oil over medium-high heat. Remove half the fish from the buttermilk, letting the excess drip off, and dip it into the flour, coating it on all sides and shaking off the excess. Add it to the pan and cook it until golden on both sides and just cooked through, about 3 minutes total. Transfer the fish to a platter and cover it loosely with foil. Repeat the procedure with the remaining oil and fish. Discard any oil left in the pan. Add the butter, the capers, and a hefty pinch of salt to the skillet, and cook over medium heat, swirling the butter, until it is golden. Add the lemon segments and cook, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour the sauce over the fish, sprinkle with the parsley and eat right away. Recipe by Sara Moulton
Authentic Japanese GMO FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
February 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com
ALL PHOTOS BY MELINDA MARTINEZ/CELEBRITY TASTE MAKERS
SLOW COOKED LAMB SHANK WITH FALL CORNUCOPIA OF VEGETABLES
Serves 5 to 8 For the Oven-Dried Tomatoes • 5 Roma tomatoes • 5 cloves of garlic, minced • 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil • 5 sprigs of thyme • 5 sprigs of rosemary • Salt and pepper, to taste For the Marinade • 5 pieces lamb shanks • 1 cup white wine • 1/2 cup brandy • 13 cloves of garlic • 8 ounces onions, cut in large pieces • 8 ounces carrots, cut in large pieces • 4 bay leaves • 7 to 10 sprigs thyme, washed, stem on • 3 to 5 sprigs rosemary, washed, stem on (keep one sprig for garnish) For Slow Braising the Lamb • 1 pint brown veal stock • 1 pound tomatoes, cut in half For the Vegetable Garnish • 1 pound carrots • 1 pound butternut squash • 1 pound haricots verts • 1 cup Brussels sprouts • 1/4 head, or 7 ounces savoy cabbage (about 6 outer leaves) • 1 1/2 stick butter
DIRECTIONS To Prepare the Oven-Dried Tomatoes
Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
Heat oven to 250 F. Remove the cores of the Roma tomatoes. Cut in half lengthwise. Place in a bowl, with the minced garlic, oil, and salt. Mix so that the salt and garlic are evenly spread. Bake tomatoes flat side up in a convection oven at 250 F for about 1 hour. Flip the tomatoes and cook for another 30 minutes to an hour. When the tomato skins look slightly wrinkled, they are ready. Allow tomatoes to cool and remove the skins in complete pieces. Reserve for garnish. To Make the Marinade Remove excess fat from the lamb shanks. Sear the shanks on all sides quickly in a generous amount of oil, then remove from pan and allow to cool. Reserve the oil to brown the aromatics for the sauce. Cut the garlic cloves lengthwise into 2 or 3 pieces. Make incisions every two inches on all sides of the shanks and insert a small piece of garlic into each incision. In a fry pan, brown in the reserved oil until golden brown, then remove the excess fat. Flambé the marinade: Remove the pan from the stove top, add the brandy at once, and then expose the pan to an open flame back onto the stove. The small amount of alcohol will burst into flame for a few seconds. Add the white wine, and let it cool down. Add the lamb shanks and herbs (be sure to reserve several thyme sprigs for garnish). Place in a nonreactive pan and refrigerate overnight or for up to 48 hours. To Braise the Lamb Heat oven to 325 F. Season the lamb shank mixture generously with salt and pepper and add the veal stock. If the stock does not cover the meat, add water until just covered. Bring to a boil, then skim off impurities. Add the cut tomatoes, then cover with lid and bake for 2 hours. When the meat is tender and comes easily off the bone, while it’s still hot, adjust the seasoning to taste. Take the meat off the bone and place in silicone molds in the shape of half spheres. Pack tight. Refrigerate until needed. To Make the Sauce Skim the fat of the cooking liquid by removing the fat that has slowly found its way to the top of the sauce, using a small ladle.
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Sibylle Eschapasse and chef Marc Bauer. Reduce down to consistency needed; it should have a silky consistency, and slightly coating the back of a wooden spoon or the bottom of a plate. If needed, add a teaspoon of slurry (half corn starch and half water) to thicken as it simmers, and season to taste. Strain and cool down. Degrease one more time once the sauce is cold. To Make the Vegetable Garnish Peel and cut the butternut squash (cut the narrow side, without seeds) into strips about 1/2 inch thick and into a shape that can hold one half sphere of lamb. Tip: The rest of the butternut can be used for soup or stuffing. Cook the squash in a small pan with a little less than 1/2 cup water, and 3 1/2 tablespoons butter. Cook covered for 7 minutes, remove the lid, and cook until the excess water evaporates. Reserve in a warm spot. The butternut squash should be soft but still hold its shape. Cut the remaining carrots into small “bâtonnets” (sticks), about 3 inches by 1 1/2 inches. Cook in a small pan with a little less than 1/2 cup water and 3 1/2 tablespoons butter. Cook covered for about 7 to 10 minutes, remove the lid and let the excess water evaporate. Cut the haricots verts into 2-inch long sections. Cook in boiling salted water for about 7 minutes, then chill in an ice bath, drain, and hold (this procedure is called “cooking à l’Anglaise,” or cooking English style). Reheat as needed with butter. For the savoy cabbage, remove the core, blanch (cook quickly) in a quart of water (with 2 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/4 cup vinegar) for 2 to 4 minutes, or until soft. Let air cool. Remove the outermost leaves of the Brussels sprouts, discarding the blemished ones. Pluck the large, light-green outer leaves and set aside. (Save the inner part of the sprouts for another dish.) Season all garnish vegetables to taste. For the Presentation Season the sauce as needed and adjust the consistency. Unmold the cold lamb, wrap with savoy cabbage, and cut in half. Reheat the lamb in a combi oven or a steam oven until warm. Plate the green beans and the butternut squash, and each piece of lamb on a piece of squash. Simmer the Brussels sprouts leaves in boiling water for about a minute, drain on paper towels, and place around the plate. If you’d like, make the reserved tomato skins into a crispy garnish by deep-frying at 350 F until dry. Shape the tomatoes into small balls: Place the flesh side of the tomato onto a small piece of cheese cloth or clean towel, bring up the edges of the cloth to encase the tomato in a small “purse,” and twist gently to shape the tomato into a small ball. Arrange on the plates. Sprinkle the carrots sticks (jardinière) on the sauce. Top each half-sphere of lamb with pieces of tomato skin and a sprig of thyme. Recipe courtesy of Marc Bauer You can watch Marc Bauer demonstrate the full recipe on “Sibylle’s Top French Chefs,” a series being aired on “Celebrity Taste Makers,” on Saturday, Feb. 18, at 6 p.m. on Pix11.