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Issue 6 Monday 12 January 2008
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vis rary ASS libyear every
Hot ASS or green monster? The Mix takes a look at the Uni’s new development projects
by Ruth Symons
The Arts and Social Science Library has undergone a £2million Arts and Social refurbishment. As the largest library at the University with an annual visit of over 450,000 people, lending more than 475,000 items each year and holding more than 600,000 books and 450,000 journals it is clear this ASS needed a lift. The ﬁrst major diﬀerence you will notice on entry is that the dull grey walls have been replaced by glass walls, letting in plenty of light and enabling you to people -watch whilst sipping a latte in the new ‘in -ibrary’ coﬀee shop, which will serve hot and cold food throughout the day. In addition to this, the training and computer rooms have been refurbished to provide more computer access points and improved facilities for users with disabilities. The short loan collection has been redesigned and relocated to the rear of the building away from the noise of the entrance. This collection will be supplemented through an initiative to provide digitized resources which is being piloted with some departments later this year. What’s more, there are several shiny new self-issue service desks. No longer must we queue to take books out. We can be out own librarians, taking books out as and when we please during the library’s extended opening hours. Another exciting feature is a wall long whiteboard at the back of the library. Adorned with interactive screens, the space is set to encourage group work and practice for Power Point presentations. The days of user friendly libraries are upon us! The ASS is not alone in its makeover. The refurbishment of the Medical Library was completed in 2008 and opened to users on 9 January 2009. Like the ASS it has beneﬁtted from the redevelopment of learning spaces and facilities, introducing contemporary furnishings and design, a
quality refreshment area, and improved learning technology equipment such as self-service facilities. The Medical Library is the University’s second largest library and currently receives over 150,000 visits annually, lending more than 70,000 items each year. Clearly medics aren’t interested in reading. The medical library has substantially reduced the amount of printed material it holds, and consequently the release of a considerable amount of space. Whilst all of this work has undoubtedly improved the libraries as a working environment, there are complaints from students that it has done little to alleviate the existing problem of a shortage of books. But in addition to the bricks and mortar developments, other innovations within Library services are planned. “We have a perennial problem of too few books for particular assignments and the “take in turns” approach this forces”, says Peter King, Director of Library Services. “We are working on a pilot to introduce online course materials. Initially this will be done on a small scale but if it goes well we will make every eﬀort to ﬁnd the resources to widen this scheme.” Alison Allden, Director of Information Services says that “Information Services recognises our role in meeting the changing needs of students. Technology and changing study patterns mean facilities now need to do much more. These refurbishments are the start of a process across all the University libraries.” The projects have taken a total of two years, including planning. The Arts and Social Sciences refurbishment has cost around £2 million and the Medical refurbishment has cost £2.1 million (including a £350,000 grant from the Wolfson Foundation).
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Issue 6 Monday 12 January 2008
The new Will’s garden is unveiled We interview its designer and get the lowdown on everyone’s favourite lunch spot
The e of the dat Will’s new rden ga
So why is a garden a good way to celebrate the centenary of the university? When the centenary board met they wanted something that was going to be lasting, that would be a visible memorial for this year. And they wanted something that would promote widening participation, with the idea that we are a university within the community, so we were looking for a way to reach out to the city. And one of the ways to do that was to create a public space that both the city and the university can use. Why did you choose to use the space by Will’s Memorial Building? The Will’s Memorial Building is the iconic university building within the city. And I was very keen that the garden should be right at the centre of the city. We looked at various sites around the university: the sites by senate house and Royal Fort Gardens, but there were problems with these. What’s wrong with the space at Royal Fort Gardens? There’s the possibility that it may be developed as that hub of the precinct is developed and also it’s a very diﬃcult site because it’s quite narrow and it’s got lots of weird levels and of course we had to think about the budget. And of course that’s going to be the heart of the campus for the next ﬁve or ten years. I think the problem with the site that we’ve chosen is that it looks as though it’s a university space and we want to encourage it to be a public space. Although it is part of our building we’d like to share it. It’s a great place for students to go but we now want people to think they could use it as well. College green attracts a lot of trouble at night and particularly at the weekends and there have been problems with public urination and vandalism down there. Do you worry that the garden could attract
similar trouble? I decided not to. I thought if we’re going to get the garden done people will automatically say, ‘are you going to get plants that are spikey so they can’t be nicked? Are you going to put benches in that can be ﬁrebombed?’ or something. Well all of these things could happen but I’m hoping that we’ll make the garden as beautiful and welcoming as possible so that everyone would want to use it. Obviously we have university security which is right next to the Wills building and the garden will be well lit, with spotlights on certain features and a ﬂood of lighting over the grass. Alongside the lit towers it should be beautiful. And if anything happens it happens, but you just have to hope that people won’t misuse it. The garden at Castle Park is a very busy area and this has been ﬁne. Won’t the new garden actually leave less space for students? In summer the grass is absolutely packed. We left most of the grass. There are two paths, which will be very helpful on graduation days, and otherwise there will be trees, almost sculptural ewe and hawthorn trees, but these will be vertical elements within the landscape. And there will be six specially designed green oak benches positioned in the garden and an engraved memorial of Cornish slate. We didn’t want to pack it with ﬂowers. We wanted it to be quite architectural to go with the architecture and space of the building around it, though we felt it needed some softening so we’re planting a magnolia, which will have a beautiful canopy of white ﬂowers. And it’s all easily maintained. These are solid pieces of horticulture. It’s quite a modern design. Do you feel that particularly suits the building? Oh it is. The building’s fake gothic but it’s very angular and we wanted to respond to
the angularity of the building and of course modern tends to be quite simple and geometric and blockish. And I think the designer’s done a wonderful job. Obviously in a sense it’s a compromise but everything is: we had to satisfy English Heritage, we’ve had to satisfy the planner, the landscape team of the planners, the centenary board and so on. So how long has all this been in the pipeline? It’s been in the pipeline since November 2007. It took us forever to get the project rolling. It’s been quite a long process. The design’s changed about three times. But I think with a garden it’s not too big. The opening’s in May isn’t it? Good timing for the graduations. Yes it opens on May 8th. And there will be much much more access at graduations. That area at the bottom of the tower gets terribly congested at graduation ceremonies. You’ll be able to walk out, sit down and have photographs taken against beautiful backdrops, not just that building. The space at the moment is quite arid. I think the garden’s going to be a really important green addition to the city. I think a lot of people we’re worried about losing a green space but we’re not losing a green, we’re enhancing one.
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Issue 4 Monday 17 November 2008
Confessions of a Bibliophile A tale of Fish, Japanese tea houses and, well... books A library, like a hospital, is a building in which the balance between form and function is particularly crucial. The extensive refurbishment of the Arts and Social Sciences Library and the Medical Library is generating a lot of attention, and rightly so. Most students would rather see any available funds go towards the core of a library – books - than, for instance, limegreen swizzle-chairs. Despite this, Bristol students stand to gain a modern learning environment, courtesy of Nomad Design Consultancy. Worryingly, the press release doesn’t say anything about these all-important books. Provision of them is, of course, the University’s job, but accommodating them and deﬁning their place in the libraries of the future should be kept out of the hands of people who, though undoubtedly talented, creative and experienced, are genuinely more excited by a ﬂexible teamwork area than a new translation of The Odyssey. Nomad’s recently-completed project, the Bedford Library at Royal Holloway University of London, is described in promotional material as “a social learning space for students.” Incredibly, an interactive projection of a ﬁsh-tank, “so that the students can, like, stand on the ﬁsh and the ﬁsh move away?” on the ﬂoor is described as their “big wow-factor,” despite the library’s sizeable collection of
non-interactively-projected books. At least students can borrow and return materials eﬃciently, thanks to electronic terminals which mean “students can come in and just drop them into a box.” (I may not go into the ASS library as often as I should, but I think we have one of those sophisticated ‘box’ contraptions too...) They say “the centrepiece of the library here is the Japanese tea house,” it’s obvious not only that the aesthetics have changed, but so has the library’s entire mentality: “We’ve done away with the barriers so students can come in and use the library as they want to use it,” says a member of staﬀ. “We’ve done away with policies on no food and drink, no noise, no mobile phones, things like that.” This is a spine-chilling moment for bibliophiles. Fortunately for library fetishists, Oxford’s Bodleian
remains the epitome. The excellent regulations boast the line: “Readers may use only pencil in Duke Humfrey’s Library.” Before you ask who Duke Humfrey was, and why he was allergic to biro, the oldest of nine reading rooms needs this charmingly stuﬀy rule to protect its priceless collection of pre-1641 manuscripts. You can almost smell the vellum just by looking at a photograph of the vaulted ceiling. Bliss. Failing that, it’s good to know it isn’t compulsory for a modern library to compromise its original purpose in pursuit of a more contemporary image. Someone got something right in Dresden, Germany, where the Saxon State Library blends a technologically advanced ‘learning space’ and a traditional book repository with breathtaking elegance. Completed in 2003 by Viennese architects Ortner + Ortner, the building, intriguingly, does not intrude on the landscape. It vanishes beneath the ground to a depth of two ﬂoors. The underground reading room is lit by natural light from the glass ceiling, lending to the space a clarity that cuts all negative associations from the word ‘basement.’ You might hate it. Today we acknowledge that diﬀerent people work more eﬀectively in diﬀerent environments. Similar reports in praise of Bristol’s new Medical Library emphasise the eyecatching interior and the increased number of computer terminals: “Wider access to Wikipedia is always good,” says one vet. On a lighter note: if you crave a library that could ﬁt into the bedroomofyourstudenthouse, nobodyandco’s bibliochaise is the most stimulating piece of furniture ever. In case you missed the wave of excitement, Google it now: the Italian company have combined an armchair with ﬁve metres of bookshelves, rendering it stylish, functional and highly personal, once you’ve ﬁlled it with your own precious books. Aﬀordable? Well, it costs around £4000, but you could join fans who have already started knocking up their own shoddy versions for free. DIY your way out of the credit crunch. Oh, come on, you knew it was coming. What’s an article without a reference to the economy, these days? Rebecca Whewell
es s s a l o M in y Januar Can you escape relationship no-man’sland? To most guys commitment is a dirty four letter word. Now this I just don’t understand. I thought boys liked dirty four letter words? In an age where the consumer is pandered to in every way, one size no longer ﬁts all. It’s Baskin-Robbins and he wants to try all 32 ﬂavours. How do you get him to stick to just one? It’s several months on and you are still in no-man’s-land. You have no idea what’s going on. No label, just limbo. It’s not that you desperately want to deﬁne it – it’s just you’d like to know sooner rather than later if it’s going to sink or ﬂoat. You try all kinds of obscure ways to ﬁnd out where you stand. You don’t ever ask him outright but you do ﬁsh to see if he’s seeing anyone else. He is not forthcoming. How do you wheedle a reaction out of him? He needs to know you’re in demand: that instantly makes you more appealing. It’s the basic rule of supply and demand. It’s also a territorial thing. If another guy wants you, yours won’t want you more but he won’t want the other guy to want you either. So make sure you mention Rothko is on at the Tate. And when your squeeze doesn’t want to go, be nonplussed (and casually say): ‘That’s alright. I’ll just go with James. He’s really in to art.’ You won’t need a microscope to catch that reaction. The fact of the matter is he’s got to decide what he wants. Often the problem here is he just doesn’t know. His is a peculiar breed: ‘I’ve never introduced a girl back home before. I’ve not found one worth it.’ Well where the hell does that leave you (you don’t ask)? You are mildly insulted: ‘Am I not worth it?’ Sheepish grin: ‘I don’t know yet.’ He moves slower than molasses in January. Patience is a virtue. The question is… do you have it? Just Hayley
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Issue 4 Monday 17 November 2008
nt a r u a t Res
Havana Cafe ‘How do you like your eggs in the morning?’ Well if, like Dean Martin, it was Helen O’Connell asking me, I’ve no doubt I’d like it with a kiss. Normally, however, it’s waiters who ask me. The answer, invariably, is eggs benedict. I can’t think of any dish I’ve ever eaten that is as perfect. The gorgeous orange yolk spilling over the viscous hollandaise and glooping over Bayonne ham and an English muﬃn. Good eggs benedict deserves more than just a little bit of praise. It deserves purple prose, it deserves a genre of Mills and Boon dedicated to the post-coital meal. It’s what Sally was eating in that New York Diner. And, yes, yes, yes - I’ll have what she’s having. After eating it you lean back in your seat spent and content. I recently discovered a friend of mine had never had eggs benedict. She’d never experienced the joy of hollandaise sauce
in the morning. Concerned and confused I took her down to Cotham Hill for a new year’s visit to the conveniently-located, unnassuming-looking Havana Cafe. Their menu rather disconcertingly oﬀered ‘breakfast benedict’ which was, we were informed , eggs benedict with bacon in place of ham and some tomatoes and a cumberland sausage tacked on for no discernible reason. Panting, we entered, and duly ordered it. What arrived was disappointing in the extreme. I’ll start with the hollandaise sauce. When cooked well this is a delicious combination of emulsiﬁed butter, the bitterness of lemon and the satisfying crunch of good black pepper. It’s subtle and remarkable. Here however it tasted of nothing and looked like nothing so much as McDonald’s special sauce. The cumberland sausage was dry and
superﬂuous. As for the side of raw tomatoes, well I can’t think of anything that they could improve. The bacon totally overpowered the eggs and, with the hollondaise as its only counter point rather dominated the meal. The eggs themselves were pathetically anaemic. There was no vibrant orange oozing anywhere. Rather there was an insipid piss-yellow swilling around. Finally there was the ‘muﬃn’. It wasn’t even a muﬃn. It was a crumpet. I would have been happier if Kermit was on my plate, at least that would alliterate. Muﬃns, in eggs benedict, are a nice counter to all of the viscous liquid and semi-solids in your mouth. A crumpet is another semi-solid. So take my advice. If you’re walking Havana Cafe and thinking of going in: don’t. The best you’ll get is a yeast infection. Shaun McMullen
Lamb chops with lemon and parsley drizzle
Serves 4 8 Lamb chops (at room temperature) 1 Red chilli * A decent handful of fresh parsley 1 Clove of garlic * A squeeze of lemon juice 2 Tablespoons of good olive oil salt, pepper and oil for cooking
Lamb chops are a great substitute for steak – much cheaper (and often on offer in supermarkets) and leaner. There tends not to be a great deal of meat on them, though, so you need a couple each. Three if you’re greedy. We wouldn’t recommend this if you are planning on a night in the Lizard Lounge, unless you want your quarry repelled by garlic breath. First make the sauce by removing the seeds from the chilli and ﬁnely chopping it and adding to a bowl. Finely chop the parsley and the garlic and add to the chilli
with a squeeze of lemon and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Now rub the lamb chops all over with oil, salt and pepper. Get a heavy-bottomed frying pan almost smoking hot and add pop in your chops (there should be a good ol’ sizzle). Fry for 2 minutes, turn and fry for a further two minutes. Remove to a warm plate and leave to rest for a couple of minutes. Serve drizzled with the chilli and parsley, with a baked potato and some broccoli. James Ramsden
ON THE WATERFRONT Calling all you culture vultures, it’s
your time to shine! You may not have realised it, but beyond Pitcher and Piano the Waterfront has some enriching experiences to offer. Be inspired by the Arnolﬁni gallery’s latest contemporary art exhibition. It’s worthwhile hanging around for the free guide and talk at 2pm every Saturday. If your tuition fees are not providing you with the intellectual stimulation you crave, why not book yourself in for one of the evening lectures or ﬁlms (currently offering two ﬁlms back to back for the price of one.) Cross the bridge for a movie of a different genre at The Watershed. Catch a cheaper screening before 4pm (£3.50). If you’re getting square eyes and fancy something more substantial than popcorn, the café has great tasting snacks that you can enjoy on the balcony outside. From one balcony to another, Romeo and Juliet will be showing from the 12th till the 21st February at the Old Vic on Kings Street. If Shakespeare is for you, or is not for you, there is plenty of interactive fun to be had at the Hippodrome when participating in performances such as Sing-a-long Hairspray and Sing-a-long Sound of Music. ‘When the dog bites, when the bee stings, when I’m feeling sad, I simply head for a Falafel King, and then I don’t feel so bad...’ Ok, so they may not be the conventional lyrics, but they will be once you’ve devoured a falafel pitta, especially if you’re feeling a little light-headed after all the singing. Regain your strength at Start the Bus and relax on one of the sofas whilst enjoying music from a live band or simply admire the Mr Scruff inspired art work on the wall. They also host an array of eclectic evenings from ‘Puff Daddy’s Musical Blingo’ to ‘Rock Out With Your Glock Out’. Why not conclude your day with some West Country culture and sample a variety of ciders at Apple? This cider boat has a menu of 29 types for you to try, as well as 6 different apple derivatives. If you are too full to try one of their amusingly named pasties such as ‘Boozy Moo’, ‘Chauvinist Pig’ and ‘Bunny Boiler’, you could always go and ﬁnd one in human form at Oceana. Sally Damms and Laurie Cantwell.
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Issue 5 Monday 1 December 2008
Forest for the Trees Alex Nail The eﬀect of the early morning sun bursting through the trees in the thin mist makes this photo a stunning example of landscape photography. The light rays captured in the right side of the image are particularly striking. Once again the time of early morning proves its perpetual worth to photographers, rendering scenes in that classic idiosyncratic light which only exists in the early hours of sunlight. Camera: Canon 20D, 1/45s at f/11
Next issue Theme ﬁve: Light and Dark. Email high-res entries to firstname.lastname@example.org. uk by 4 Februrary.
The Epigram Photography competition will be running all year, oﬀering readers the chance to win hundreds of pounds of photography equipment. Each issue will have a set theme and the winning entry will be displayed on this double page spread. Each theme winner will be put forward to the ﬁnal round of selection, where the best entry of the year will win ﬁrst prize. Wide and versitile interpretation of the set themes is strongly encouraged.
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Issue 5 Monday 1 December 2008
Issue 4 Monday 17 November 2008
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Dear Miss B, I love my girlfriend more than life itself and I want to do something that will show my devotion... I saw everything you cheating minx
If I give you more money will you please keep your mouth shut?
Milo is my best friend!
Last Week on Clifton Close…
Dear Miss B
Dear Miss B
Dear Miss B
I want to throw a surprise party for my housemate and I want it to be truly spectacular, an event that will go down in history. Can you give me any ideas that will wow the pants oﬀ her and the rest of our mates?
I love my girlfriend more than life itself and I want to do something short of proposing to her that will show my love and devotion. I was thinking of a tattoo spelling her name entwined with mine on my thigh. Do you think that this would be the ultimate act of love?
Having over indulged at Christmas, I’m ﬁnding it a struggle to hoist myself into my skinny jeans and wear shirts without the buttons pinging oﬀ. I’ve started a diet which hasn’t been all too successful. I’m longing to be as slim as my peers, how can I make a go of it and still play a part in the student lifestyle?
Party animal from Pembroke Road Besotted from Black Boy Hill
I really hope Felix hasn’t told Milo. I can’t stop my aﬀair with Sven though, I love him too much
Later that night...a guilty Cassie stays in with Oh crap, I want Sven....not Al!!
Ed. will you do me the honour of becoming my civil partner?
On a romantic trip to Dublin, Al has a question... Errr...me too
I’m so glad you said yes
...Ed isn’t sure what to make of it This must be where Sven lives, I can’t wait to surprise him!
Forget the hiring a nightclub idea. It can be expensive and you may be lumbered with a bill for thousands to pay for the criminal damage that all your rowdy drunken friends have caused. You want it to be the talk of the town. I recommend you throw a house party. It will be legendary and the damage will be limited to your own home. Stock up on cheap punch, Sunset Reef, the poor man’s Malibu, White Lightening and Basics Tortilla Chips. Bargain. But what is needed to give it that sensational edge is a fancy dress theme. A theme like no other that someone has never done before. Abandon the clichéd ‘Pimps’n’Hoes’, Porn Star and Jungle themes favoured by students of our time and indulge in a little experimentation. Breeds of deer or antelope is a theme that, if you’re lucky, may not have been experienced by your party guests. A few other suggestions from my partying days at university are as follows: brands of artiﬁcial sweetener, Question of Sport contestants, Tom Cruise’s lovers, types of umbrella handles or dress as your favourite power tool. These will get your mates thinking. Kit the bedrooms out with condoms in case anyone happens to get lucky. Chuck a hired stripper in there and you have concocted the party that only dreams are made of. know my email address if you want to send me an invite.
I’m sure that many girls are hankering after a boyfriend like you. How romantic you are! A tattoo is not strictly the done thing to do as part of a University of Bristol aristocratic lifestyle but hey, on the thigh is a great idea. No-one will see it until the summer when you whip out your Daniel Craigstyle trunks on an annual student trip to Portishead open air pool. Be warned though that unless this relationship is for life, you will end up with a warped and blue-tinged stretchmark ridden name of a girl you don’t even like anymore as she cheated on you with your best mate. Furthermore, you may end up resembling Angelina Jolie, with the remnants of what oncewas Bill Bob Thornton etched onto her skinny arm. Before you head down to the tattoo parlour, why not sketch a design and have it made into a transfer, popular with pre-teens dying to look like their rock star heroes, then when it starts to peel and the novelty has worn oﬀ you’ll know what a huge mistake you were about to make. Have you thought about the ‘I really want a long-term relationship’ connotations that this tattoo might provoke. I wouldn’t scare her oﬀ and risk losing a beautiful and blossoming young relationship.
Please help me, Chubby from Chandos Road It’s no fun chewing sticks of celery when your housemate is sitting next to you gorging on buy-one-get-one-free dominos, with extra potato wedges and garlic bread on the side. But it’s probably about time to ditch the creamy cocktails and late night kebabs at the Hunger Hatch. Now, I’m no nutritionist so all I can suggest is a couple of measly food swaps to help you on your way. Swap fried bread for toasted and spread with butter rather than lard. Change a family size chocolate bar for a couple of normal size ones. Or have two bacon sandwiches for breakfast rather than three. These simple modiﬁcations to your diet should yield results. Another good idea to help you lose weight would involve burning the entire current contents of your wardrobe, and then replacing them with everything in a size 6. That way you will be forced to wander the streets of Bristol, redfaced with embarrassment because you are naked, until you lose the weight. .
Got a problem for Miss B? Let her soothe your pain by emailing: email@example.com
“what would you do next?”
This week: ““I’ve borrowed my best friend’s car and crashed it, and I don’t know what to do!” Back in Bristol, there’s a new arrival at the close...
See you next issue for more of the ‘Close...
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Issue 3 Monday 3 November 2008
Laura 1st year Fashion
I found Gerard waiting for a bus in Hotwells and couldn’t believe my luck. Firstly, he was the sweetest man I’d approached that day, and secondly, he was dressed like he was straight out of the 60s. Everything he’s wearing has been given to him or collected over the years. He’s clearly a fan of assorted layering, pulling it oﬀ well and looking surprisingly sharp. He told me where some of it’s from, but I can’t tell you as it’s apparently a trade secret…
I met Laura in the shopping mecca Cabot Circus, but there is nothing mainstream about her look. Can you tell that Laura is a fan of Agyness Dean? Her punk-inspired checked jacket is TK Maxx, bag is Paul Frank, and black top, skirt and shoes all from a charity shop. Though not wearing one that day, she loves a big winter coat and is into Tarina Tarntino accessories at the moment. I’m admiring that quiﬀ,which is on trend for hair next season.
Grace 1st year English Grace, as you can see here, is all for the winter coat. Her fur one has been handed down from her mum (don’t be jealous) and under it she’s wearing a grey men’s cashmere cardigan and a white ‘The Virgins’ t-shirt that she cleverly made herself! The bag is from Luella and goes beautifully with those Russell & Bromley loafers. We share a passion for fashion blogs - Grace recommends the Spanish am-lul.blogspot.com.
“The British look so much better during winter”, I read somewhere over the Christmas holidays, “with the harsh wind making their cheeks ruddy and a winter coat covering all of Christmas’ overindulgences.” Whether or not this is true, I have to admit that I’ve been fervently searching for a good coat in both the pre- and post-Christmas sales. After all, reports say it’s the coldest winter on record – though I swear they say that every year – and as much as I love layering, the technique hasn’t been doing me much good under autumn’s ¾-sleeve blazer. But the debate still continues: to layer or not to layer? On the street, I found stylish arguments for both sides, always somehow perfectly reﬂecting upon each individual’s personality. Fashion is obviously very subjective, but this time of year is brilliant for seeing personal style shine through before the craze for next season’s trends come in. My advice to you is to go out and brave the cold; whatever you wear, you’ll wear it well. Words and photography by Nazrene Hanif
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Issue 6 Monday 12 January 2008
Art vs. Fashion e Featur
Vivenne Westwood, one of Britain’s greatest designers and her inɜuences
Vivienne Westwood is regarded across the world as one of the greatest British designers and artists. However, it wasn’t until halfway through her career that she came to regard herself as an artist. Born in 1941, she is best known as the eccentric founder of the Punk movement of the 1970s. But underneath the eccentricity lies an art lover with a long standing and complex relationship to art across all mediums. Westwood’s love of art began at an early age, when she would visit galleries, becoming lost in the fantasy scenes before her, in order to escape her home life. She went on to study at the Harrow School of Art, enrolling on a fashion
course but changing to silver smithing. It was her love of art that led her to meet Malcolm McClaren; an art student and the man who would change her life. McClaren learnt and understood the world through art and he was particularly drawn to Guy Debord’s Societé de Spectacle. Written in 1967, Debord’s collection of contradictory texts, with phrases such as ‘be reasonable, demand the impossible’, would later provide the language of Punk. At the end of the 1970s, having created her own art to express the nature of the British political rebellion, Westwood turned her attention to other cultures and time periods. At this time, she met Canadian painter Gary Ness, who introduced her to the work of European painters such as Titian and Vermeer. Her collections became less about shocking the public and focused more on developing eighteenth and nineteenth century techniques; for example, the ‘Mini-Crini Collection’ of S/S 1985 was inspired by the Petrushka ballet and modernised the Victorian crinoline. Westwood was also inspired by the glamour of portraits and her A/W 1990 ‘Portrait’ collection was inﬂuenced by the French paintings in the Wallace Collection, London. The m o d e l s
were sent down the runway in corsets and 10inch platform shoes as if they had just stepped out of a painting, including one corset with a print of Boucher’s ‘Shepherd Watching a Sleeping Shepherdess’ on it. Looking back at her career, it is easy to see that Westwood has always been a great artist in the making, even though she may not have realised herself. A deﬁning moment in her progression from art student to artist in her own right was when her muse, Sarah Stockbridge, was photographed in the British Museum next to the Parthenon sculptures in Westwood’s designs. Like the Parthenon, her designs have stood the test of time, have been exhibited across the world and their beauty will forever be admired. This iconic moment guaranteed Westwood’s status of one the greatest artists of our time. By Sophie Hollins
Both Andy Warhol and Salvador Dali worked as window dressers before ɛnding success as artists
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Issue 6 Monday 12 January 2008
e Real lif ion Fash e Featur
Andy Warhol: The revival Pop! Andy Warhol’s Art has once again burst onto the scene: this time, in the form of an inspiring fashion collection designed by Pepe Jeans. Comprising over 250 pieces, the collection pays homage to the artwork of the world’s most renowned pop artist, as well as continuing his legacy in the fusion of art and fashion. Known chieﬂy as an artist, Warhol actually began his career as a fashion illustrator for magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. He also produced adverts for the shoe manufacturer, Miller and Sons, and, like Salvador DalÍ, worked as a window dresser for New York department stores such as Tiﬀany’s. Such exposure to the fashion industry kept Warhol abreast with the kaleidoscope of fads and fashions of the early 60s: the time when a new and exciting era of popular culture was born. Love, peace and ﬂower power: against this backdrop Pop Art emerged onto the scene, exposing the language and imagery of popular culture. Warhol exposed and created the imagery of mass culture by merging art, fashion and advertising in his artwork. ‘The Souper Dress’ is a classic example of this fusion; inspired by his screen prints of Campbell’s soup cans, a series of paper mini-dresses was produced. Meant as throwaways, these dresses acted at once as an advertising campaign for Campbell’s Soup and an ironic comment on consumerism. And so the ‘Warhol look’ was born. As an artist/designer, Warhol challenged the world to see art diﬀerently. Dresses became canvases; paper and plastic replaced fabric; dresses glowed in the dark or reﬂected light; and all were displayed in Paraphernalia, Paul Young’s New York boutique-cumgallery. Marketing a continuous stream of must-have trends, the store was the perfect setting for Warhol to experiment and to
exhibit his progressive art/fashion pieces. The ‘Warhol look’, revolutionary in the 60s, has made a decisive impact on contemporary fashion, and lives on today through posthumous collections. Amongst others, Stephen Sprouse paid homage to Warhol using his ‘Camouflage’ screen prints as textile designs; Gianni Versace made his ‘Marilyn Monroe’ dress; and Philip Treacy created a limited-edition collection of Warhol-inspired hats and bags. Yet Pepe is the ﬁrst to oﬀer the ‘Warhol look’ on the high street. In two sublines, the designers have managed to encapsulate the art and lifestyle of the man himself. The ﬁrst, entitled ‘POP’, focuses on Warhol’s iconic artwork, such as the Marilyn Monroe screen-print and Flower lithographs. Expect statement pieces: iconic graphics, vivid colours and ﬂowery prints. Most dresses are A-line, including the Campbell’s Soup Can dress, a close replica of the original 1966 paper dress. ‘Factory’, the second collection, is subtler, reminiscent of the artist’s personal style and milieu. Drawing on Candy Darling and Edie Sedgwick for inspiration, ‘Factory’ embodies 1960s underground cool. Expect a darker mood, with sharp tailoring and rebellious prints. Don’t miss out on the newly-revived ‘Warhol look’; get your hands on a piece of fashion history in one of Pepe Jeans’ London stores and, like Warhol, exhibit your own “deeply superﬁcial” fashion statement.
High street, high fashion By Anna Behrmann Nowadays, anyone can be fashionable. Gone are the days when up-to-date fashion was reserved for models or the fabulously wealthy. The world of high fashion is being invaded, but we need to look a little closer to see where the battles are being fought. Haute Couture remains elitist. The term ‘haute couture’ is protected by French law, and only design houses whose names are on a list are allowed to use it. There are only eleven haute couture houses at the moment, including Channel, Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier. Artistic vision translates into fantasy for most women. Clothes that cost hundreds of thousands of pounds are still reserved for royalty and museum show cases. Whilst haute couture remains untouchable, the work of mainstream designers such as Stella McCartney and Jimmy Choo is getting closer to that of high street brands such as Topshop and Primark. In 2007, Jimmy Choo won compensation from high street shop Oasis for allegedly copying a silver leather and cork wedge shoe. This is certainly not a one-oﬀ case. It is hard to open a glossy magazine without seeing comparisons between almost identical outﬁts – one by a designer, worth thousands; the other, from the high street, worth less than a hundred pounds. Lovers of designer clothes argue that they will continue to be bought for their designs, their brand image and their quality. Nevertheless, whilst designer clothes continue to set trends and sell a lifestyle, their quality has come into disrepute. Designer clothes are often made in the same overseas warehouses as high street brands. Whilst once designers were feted for their originality, copies are now seen everywhere. There is no denying that catwalk copies sell like hotcakes. Whilst many designers are enraged, other designers encourage the trend. Stella McCartney, Roberto Cavalli, Karl Lagerfeld and Viktor and Rolf have all designed inexpensive clothes for H&M. We ﬁnd ourselves with an uneasy alliance between the high street and designer brands. Despite the credit crunch, we live in a consumerist culture. This means that people still feel under pressure to buy new clothes, but have less money to spend. How will people spend their limited cash on clothes? People may choose to buy a few classic pieces from designers, but it is easier for most to buy disposable clothes from the high street. With fashion constantly changing and an everexpanding choice, it looks like designer copies for the high street are here to stay.
th me ix
Issue 4 Monday 17 November 2008
WIN WIN WIN
e h T
The New Motorola ZN5. Just answer this question: Which ﬁlm has the most nominations in the 2008 Oscars? Send your answers in to firstname.lastname@example.org
Some Ladies Irish proverb
Some ladies now make pretty songs, And some make pretty nurses; Some men are great at righting wrongs And some at writing verses.
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Play at the Anson Rooms 21 February
You could be there of s r i a p o w t g f n i o v i e g n Win ots that we’re away ticke Answer this question: What is the name of The View’s new album? Send your answers in to email@example.com
ĕp’i-grām’ - A short poem, especially a satirical one, with a witty or ingenious ending.
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