Pastry Arts PASTRY
WINTER 2018 · ISSUE 2
Giving White Sugar the Boot
Why Practice Makes Perfect
Japanese Shaved Ice
A Dessert For All Seasons
Intersecting Fashion, Art & Business
The Nuts Collection A Fresh Perspective
Discover our nuts collection, a reinvented range to offer a wide palette of flavors and textures to chefs.
14 Susan Notter Practice Makes Perfect
34 Antonio Bachour Dreaming Big in the USA
52 Ron Ben-Israel
At the Intersection of Fashion, Art & Business
34 Pastry Arts
L’ É CO L E VA L R H O N A B R O O K LY N This year, Valrhona’s worldwide Pastry and Chocolate Schools, L’ÉCOLE VALRHONA, celebrates 30 years of sharing, passion, expertise, and innovation. For 30 years, l’École Valrhona and their Chefs have been by your side, helping to cultivate your talent, individuality, professional creativity and growth. Our team and Chefs invite you to join us at l’École Valrhona Brooklyn for unforgettable, hands-on and intimate learning experiences.
11–13 PANNING & CHOCOLATE TREATS Chef Derek Poirier 18–20 WORLD CHAMPION N E W ICE CREAM & GELATO Chef Christophe Domange Chef Rémi Montagne 25–27 ARTISTIC CHOCOLATE SHOWPIECES Chef Stéphane Tréand
4–5 TASTES & VARIATIONS ON VIENNOISERIE Chef Greg Mindel 10–12 FRAMED CHOCOLATE BONBONS Chef Philippe Givre
15–17 VIENNOISERIE, N E W PANETTONE & TEA TIME Chef Oriol Balaguer
25–26 MODERN BUFFET Chef Sarah Tibbetts
21–23 BACHOUR MIAMI N E W STYLES Chef Antonio Bachour
AUGUST 5–7 PLATED DESSERTS & PETITS GÂTEAUX Chef Patrice Demers
APRIL 2–3 NEW LIFESTYLE & PASTRY TRENDS Chef Sarah Tibbetts
13–14 ENTREMETS & TRAVEL CAKES Chef Nathaniel Reid
16–17 INTRODUCTION TO CHOCOLATE Chef Paul Saiphet
19–21 MOLDED CHOCOLATE BONBONS Chef Derek Poirier
MAY 13–16 VALRHONA’S VISION: N E W FROM TRADITION TO INNOVATION Chef Philippe Givre Chef Derek Poirier 20–22 PANNING & CHOCOLATE TREATS Chef Nicolas Botomisy 27–31 TECHNOLOGY OF N E W INGREDIENTS AND AN EXCEPTIONAL DAY WITH PATRICK ROGER IN Chef Philippe Givre FRANCE Chef Patrick Roger
8–10 INSPIRATION FROM N E W SWEET TO SAVORY Chef Lincoln Carson
28–30 MOLDED CHOCOLATE BONBONS Chef Derek Poirier
NOVEMBER 4–6 PASTRY STYLES BY YANN DUYTSCHE NEW Chef Yann Duytsche
SEPTEMBER 9–11 PLATED DESSERTS N E W BY GHAYA OLIVEIRA Chef Ghaya Oliveira 16–18 UNVEILING MODERN PÂTISSERIE Chef William Werner 23–25 NEW
CHOCOLATE SHOWPIECE & ENTREMET WITH 2019 PASTRY TEAM USA Chef Laurent Branlard Chef Nicolas Chevrieux Chef Victor Dagatan Chef Olivier Saintmarie Chef Jordan Snider
Off-site course. Visit us.valrhona.com for details.
FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO REG ISTER , visit us.valrhona.com or contact us at email@example.com
58 Huckleberry Clafoutis A Recipe From Shaun Velez
62 Modern Marjolaine
A Recipe From Sally Camacho Mueller
68 Pumpkin Confit & Honey Masala Ice Cream A Recipe From Pete Schmutte
72 Santa Yule Log
A Modern Spin on a Holiday Classic
10 New Banana Dessert Transforming Familiar Flavors
20 Japanese Shaved Ice Now a Dessert For All Seasons
24 Water-Based Ganaches A Formula For Success
28 New & Notable
The Latest Products, Equipment and Events
42 Giving White Sugar the Boot
84 Berner Lebkuchen The Original Gingerbread
90 Re-imagining Desserts At a Legendary Restaurant
- Garcia Nevett Chocolatier de Miami - Dote Coffee Bar - Milk & Cream
106 Books for Chefs
A Pastry Chefâ€™s Favorite Alternatives
An Ancient & Singularly Flavorful Grain Pastry Arts
O B S E S S E D W I T H F L AVO R A N D FA I T H F U L TO C R A F T, W E H A N D S E L E C T T H E F I N E ST C AC AO, PASS D OW N T I M E - H O N O R E D R E C I P E S , A N D T I R E L E S S LY I N N O VAT E O U R T E C H N I Q U E S . 1 5 0 Y E A R S I S N ’ T A M A R K O F O U R L O N G E V I T Y. I T ’ S A T E S TA M E N T T O O U R P A S S I O N . G U I T TA R D.C O M / 1 5 0
Advisory Board Pastry Arts Magazine 151 N. Maitland Ave #947511 Maitland, FL 32751 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: pastryartsmag.com EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Shawn Wenner
Andreas Galliker is the Senior Vice-President of Innovation and Product Development at Albert Uster Imports in Gaithersburg, Maryland.
Managing Editor Tish Boyle Staff Writers Meryle Evans Jenna Rimensnyder Contributors Jimmy MacMillan, Nick Malgieri, Julian Rose, Miro Uskokovic, Shilpa Uskokovic, Robert Wemischner, Genevieve Sawyer, Sally Camacho Mueller, Pete Schmutte, Shaun Velez, Matt Sartwell, Scott Green Cover Antonio Bachour Cover Photographer Simone Giannini CREATIVE Graphic Designer Rusdi Saleh
Chef Settepani is a Certified Master Baker who owns and operates two Bruno Bakery outlets in Staten Island, and has won many accolades and medals over his long pastry career.
Francois Payard owned and operated Payard Patisserie until 2009, and has won many awards such as ‘Pastry Chef of the Year’ by the James Beard Foundation, Medal of Honor by the French government, and selection as a member of Relais Desserts International.
BUSINESS President Shawn Wenner Publisher Jeff Dryfoos VP, Communications Joyce Appelman ADVERTISING
Chef Jacquy Pfeiffer is the co-founder of the prestigious French Pastry School in Chicago. He has won numerous awards and honors, including the National Order of the Legion of Honor in France, and a James Beard Award for his cookbook, The Art of French Pastry. He was also the subject of the Kings of Pastry documentary film.
For advertising availability & rates, contact Jeff Dryfoos at SALES@PASTRYARTSMAG.COM The opinions of columnists and contributors are their own. Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement by Pastry Arts Magazine and/or Rennew Media, LLC. Sources are considered reliable and information is verified as much as possible, however, inaccuracies may occur and readers should use the information at their own risk. Links embedded within the publication may be affiliate links, which means Pastry Arts Magazine will earn a commission at no additional cost to our readers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the expressed consent of Rennew Media, LLC. For advertising information, letters to the editor, or submission inquiries, please email: email@example.com. Pastry Arts Magazine Published by Rennew Media, LLC © Copyright 2018, Rennew Media, LLC All Rights Reserved
Norman Love is an internationally acclaimed pastry chef and chocolatier, and the founder/owner of Norman Love Confections. Norman Love owns and operates four chocolate salons in Southwest Florida and ships signature chocolates and specialty products around the country.
Chef Notter’s international work experience led to being an instructor and co-owner of The International School of Confectionery Arts for many years. She has resided in the USA since 1992, and is currently the USA Sales Professional for Max Felchlin AG, Switzerland.
ell, it’s official, Pastry Arts Magazine is here to stay. Since the inaugural issue in September, we’ve had over 30,000 readers of both the magazine and website, over 8,500 annual subscriptions claimed, and over 300 fivestar reviews. The overall reception has been that of a fairytale, and we are eternally grateful to those who quickly embraced our mission of providing a voice for the trade. Now, as we look to 2019, we recognize an opportunity to enhance our editorial offerings even further. With great insights from our survey, where over 1,000 readers shared everything from professional goals to obstacles, we noticed a pattern. An overwhelming majority dreams of one day opening a business of their own. From a café to a bakery, dessert bar or custom cake shop, there is definitely an entrepreneurial spirit brewing. As such, we are planning a “Business Bites” column beginning March 2019, where we will cover topics associated with building and growing a business in the pastry and baking universe, so stay tuned. Finally, I’d be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge how thrilled we were to have so many great chefs and professionals involved in this second issue. From Susan Notter to Ron-Ben Israel, and Antonio Bachour, who is days away from opening his highly anticipated patisserie, Bachour, in Miami, Florida, the profiles, recipes, and contributors who filled the pages ahead helped to create something special. As the year quickly comes to an end and we usher in 2019, we wish you a wonderful holiday season, safe and happy New Year, and sincerely hope you enjoy our second issue. Sincerely,
Shawn Wenner Editor-in-Chief
New Banana Dessert Transforming Familiar Flavors into Something Extraordinary By Jimmy MacMillan
n this month’s column, we are going to examine a new dessert featuring yellow bananas. These bananas are, of course, a versatile dessert ingredient. As pastry chefs we use bananas in many forms: raw, roasted, pureed, and ripened in breads and cakes. There is something exceptional about bananas that tie us to memories of comfort. A ripe yellow sliced banana in cold milk and sprinkled with sugar is so basic, but has an instant trigger to childhood memories. That emotional attachment to the desserts we create as chefs can be lost when we ‘elevate’ dishes past where memory allows our diners to relate to our cuisine. Let’s continue by looking at a few classic preparations of bananas. Many diners are familiar enough (or have made) the ‘Banana Pudding’ concoction of vanilla wafers layered with raw bananas and covered in vanilla pudding and whipped cream. Here we have the raw bananas served cold with creamy textures and vanilla flavor. We’ll add some raw bananas to our dessert and take note of the pudding as a complement to the bananas. Another very popular dessert, Bananas Foster, features bananas that are sautéed with brown sugar and butter, and flambéed with dark rum. This is poured over vanilla ice cream. Here we have cooked bananas with some dark caramelized sugar flavors and, again, the presence of vanilla.
When we look at a typical Banana Split, we have raw bananas flanking three scoops of ice cream, topped with fruit, caramel, hot fudge and nuts, and topped with whipped cream. We see the common thread of temperature variance, raw and cooked items and bananas paired with cold and creamy elements. The final type of banana dessert we are going to consider is banana bread or cake. This cake is typically best prepared with very ripe or ‘black’ bananas, which become sweeter as the starch changes into simple sugars. When made with these ripe bananas, the banana bread is rich in banana flavor. Our recipe is oil based, and contains brown sugar for caramel notes and plenty of vanilla. Our research is done. Now it’s time to design an elaborate and expressive banana dessert that contains the emotional connections we’ve made. We’re going to start with a small banana bread cake ball and freeze that inside a banana mousse sphere. The outside is finished with milk chocolate spray. This is the center of our dessert and will be thawed for service and served chilled.
Now it’s time to design an elaborate and expressive banana dessert that contains the emotional connections we’ve made.
We will add raw bananas slices and caramelize them, and also add candied kumquats to bring a bit of acid to cut through the dessert. At tableside, we’ll pour hot caramel sauce over the banana mousse sphere. We have included raw bananas, banana bread, hot caramel sauce, cold mousse, and plenty of vanilla. Each of our choices retains the emotional connection to the classical desserts, but allows us to create a stunning restaurant dessert. That initial step of exploring classical banana desserts and extracting the emotional connection and its relationship to taste is what’s important here. No matter how far away we get from familiar banana desserts, we’re going to take notes of the emotional, taste and memory aspects of classical banana desserts to anchor our elaborations for our new banana dessert. It is in this way we can express new dessert ideas 12
and tell a new story about bananas without losing our diners. Now go ahead and try this same exercise with other dessert classics. Photo Credit: Julie MacMillan
Jimmy MacMillan is a celebrated pastry chef, food writer and award-winning videographer. As the Corporate Pastry Chef for DineAmic Group in Chicago, Chef MacMillan creates viral desserts for six restaurant venues. Currently, Jimmy is developing a new video series under the name JMVirtuosity. For more information, visit www.JMPurePastry.com
FlexipanÂŽ Origine Cylinder
Susan Notter Practice Makes Perfect By Genevieve Sawyer
hef Susan Notter discovered the baking and pastry arts as a young child in England. The oldest of four girls, when she wanted something sweet, she made it from scratch. Perhaps her enduring modesty (she claims not to be particularly talented, merely having practiced a lot) comes from learning to view sweets as the result of the work of her hands. “I mainly organized my sisters’ birthday parties. I would make sandwiches, cookies, and then the birthday cakes, which would always be shaped to look like something – I remember hedgehogs, cottages, and clocks.” Thus began Chef Notter’s dedication to the art of creating ambitious pastries and confections.
contestant on several Food Network shows, demonstrating her adeptness at creating blown sugar and impressively designed cakes. When she was teaching at YTI, she was glad to see the progress the students made. “I taught mainly the chocolate and sugar show piece classes to students in their final term before externship. It was rewarding to see them develop their creative skills, beginning with ideas and a drawing, then ending with a show piece and final display table. The students were very proud of their work. We would have an evening where the parents and friends would come to see the students’ work, and they were often amazed at how far they had come in nine months of training.” As the Felchlin United States’ representative, Susan travels a lot. “I meet with the chefs, show them that we value their business, and introduce them to the product range that Felchlin carries. It’s so much better to meet face to face than just having a phone call, and I believe the chefs appreciate this also. And I get to visit my friends in the industry – what’s better than that?”
Despite being raised in a family that did not revere the food industry (her mother asked her why she didn’t “get a real job, work in a bank, or work in an office”), she remains as committed today as she was when she baked as a child. A graduate of culinary school in England, Notter has coached and won highlevel pastry competitions, taught and directed departments at the International School of Confectionary Arts, Culinard, and YTI Career Institute (a prominent Pennsylvania trade school), created chocolates in Luzerne and Zurich, and is now working for Max Felchin AG as the dedicated United States Chef and Sales Professional. Notter has also been a Pastry Arts
Despite being a worldwide company over 100 years old with distributors on six continents, Max Felchlin is not mired in history; it’s a company that likes to stay current. That means that communication between Chef Notter and her colleagues is crucial, and because industry conditions are always changing, frequent travel is necessary. “When I go to Switzerland, it’s good for me to touch base with my Swiss coworkers and have time to meet to discuss current and future projects. Each time I’m there, there’s a little different focus. I’ve been with customers from the U.S. that attended classes taught by Jordi Bordas. I’ve spent time in the factory understanding the production at a deeper level, training on the complete product line, and in R&D on the couverture testing and product development. Recently I was there with all seven of the chefs working on new recipes for 2019.” When Chef Notter is state side, she’s just as busy as when she’s abroad, “organizing travel, visiting customers, working on presentations and classes, preparing finished products to take to customers, etc.” 16
I taught mainly the chocolate and sugar showpiece classes to students in their final term before externship. It was rewarding to see them develop their creative skills, beginning with ideas and a drawing, then ending with a showpiece and final display table.
Notter does not deprive herself of sweets, but prefers products that rely on rich tastes and from scratch ingredients. She’s a fan of simple cake rolls or fruit pies, or a chocolate with a thin shell and wonderful layers of flavor. Her focus on flavor and authenticity, however, hasn’t deterred her from artistry. Anyone who views her sugar sculptures can’t fail to be struck by the color and elegant forms she uses to craft her edible art. These pieces serve as evidence that one can be unswervingly dedicated to flavor and quality ingredients while creating visually complex work, and that refinement does not necessarily dilute the drama of a piece. Chef Notter’s perspective is that – particularly with desserts – people eat for pleasure, so the appeal had better be there, or customers won’t come back. And while the saying that “people eat with their eyes” might be a cliché, Chef Notter believes there’s a great deal of truth to it. In an era when many consumers work more than sixty hours per week, the appeal of pastries, breads, and chocolates made by
someone else is undeniable, but these products have got to catch the customer’s eye, even if they aren’t works of art. While Chef Notter acknowledges that popular cooking shows encourage home cooks and bakers to consider using strictly fresh and from-scratch ingredients, she wishes they would focus less on “colorful displays of suspense and emotion and more on the ingredients and techniques required to successfully produce delicious food.” When teaching, the type of students she was most impressed by (and would have liked to hire) were not the ones who spent time talking in class or focusing on their smartphones. It was the ones who always stayed late and finished cleaning up. Dishwashing is not required to create fanciful wedding cakes, and is rarely featured on cooking competition television shows, but in Notter’s classes, it was valued as part of finishing the commitment to the task at hand.
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Itâ€™s important to develop many skills in and out of the kitchen, and have a lot to offer. Make yourself invaluable!
Despite the rewards of the baking and pastry world, Notter concedes that many industry veterans reach a point when they want to change gears. Most industry jobs are physically demanding, and many require intense focus. Years and years of this can stress anyone’s body or spirit. Anticipating a need to change channels is something that Chef Notter advocates: “I think each chef should consider early on where their career will take them. It’s tough to be on your feet and working 12-hour shifts as you get older. It’s a young person’s game, but there are opportunities in R&D, working for companies like Felchlin, playing more of a consulting role, teaching. Experience and industry knowledge can be very valuable to an employer. It’s important to develop many skills in and out of the kitchen, and have a lot to offer. Make yourself invaluable!” she advises.
Focus less on colorful displays of suspense and emotion and more on the ingredients and techniques required to successfully produce delicious food.
Chef Notter certainly appreciates her career shift from classroom to corporation. And although one could assume otherwise, she sees that shift as a continuation, not a departure. “I see it as the next step. I am still teaching, but with specific focus, I am also learning a lot and this brings new challenges, but I enjoy the challenge. I like working more independently, and it’s up to me to make this work. The education profession is wonderfully rewarding, but does not always understand the hospitality industry and how important it is to network and be involved outside the schools. It was not a let down; I feel my new position is perfect for my experience and background.” Chef Notter clearly loves her new job as much as she loves the pastry industry. Like the taste of a hot roll baked on site using fresh ingredients, there is nothing like it, and for Chef Susan Notter, this makes it all worthwhile. Genevieve Sawyer is a freelance food writer who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 2009. She is the co-author of The Rookwood Inn’s Guide to Devouring the Berkshires – One Cultural Bite at a Time and is also an expert in the care of horses and the maintenance of horse farms. Pastry Arts
Japanese Shaved Ice
Now a Dessert For All Seasons
By Meryle Evans
akigori, esteemed member of the global family of shaved ice sweets, is morphing from a warm weather treat to yearround show-stopping dessert. The delicate, snowy, flakes, embellished with a wide array of syrups and toppings, adapt well to both traditional and contemporary settings.
Relished by Japanese nobility centuries ago when ice brought from the mountains was a luxury, kakigori has been popular at Japanese restaurants in the United States for decades. Recently it has caught the imagination of American chefs, and is starring on menus at fine dining establishments and in small shops operated by enthusiastic young entrepreneurs. What distinguishes kakigori from other shaved ice concoctions is the purity of ingredients that are a hallmark of Japanese cuisine, and the deftness of the chef in shaving a block of ice in a machine with a sharp blade to achieve smooth, fluffy crystals. Seasonal syrups and condiments are added as the ice builds up, providing an infinite variety of classic and contemporary combinations. That is the appeal for devotees like Stephanie Prida, Pastry Chef at the Japanese bistro The Lobster Club in New York, and Chef de Cuisine Marc Johnson at David Chang’s Majordomo in Los Angeles. Prida recalls, “I was traveling in Japan, and had kakigori in a small shop in Tokyo...I became obsessed with it and determined to try every flavor on the menu.”
Coconut kakigori - Bonsai Kakigori When she was developing the pastry menu for The Lobster Club, Prida explains, “I knew from day one that I wanted to do kakigori, but the owners didn’t really know what it was. So I ordered a cheap hand-crank machine from Amazon and did a couple of mini-versions.” They were convinced, and the restaurant now sends out awesome towers of blood orange or tiramisu kakigori, made in a gigantic Swan machine. “It took us a while to figure out the right water we wanted,” she notes, “the exact temper of the ice block, the right syrups to use, and the consistency of the toppings.” Now that kakigori has become a signature dessert, pumpkin and chestnut are on Prida’s wish list. Marc Johnson discovered shaved ice locally at Taiwanese and Korean shops, and after purchasing an ice-making machine, set out experimenting with textures to achieve the perfect flakes. Working with ice supplier Penny Pound, he found that leaving the blocks out of the freezer for a few minutes before they went into the machine, kept the ice from cracking. For Majordomo’s opening menu he created orange cream kakigori, with a citrus salad on
the bottom, elderflower vinaigrette, citrus syrup, orange cream, and vanilla meringue. Johnson’s current offering is coconut avocado cream, coffee syrup, and candied cacao nibs. Like Prida, a visit to Japan was the impetus for two kakigori start-ups on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. After Gaston Becherano raved to his partner Theo Friedman about watching a kakigori master in Tokyo, the duo opened Bonsai kakigori at a stand in the Canal Street Market. Their ice blocks are made in the basement, shaved in a handcranked machine, and offered in flavors like roasted black sesame, drizzled with a choice of sauce (blueberry puree, salted caramel), and sprinkled with a selection of toppings ranging from marshmallows to more traditional red bean and mochi. Nearby, on bustling East Broadway, husband and wife pastry chefs Olivia Leong and Eddie Zheng, impressed by the Japanese desserts
Orange Cream Kakigori they sampled on an Asian visit, opened The Little One last January. Both graduates of the Institute of Culinary Education who began their careers at Dominque Ansel and WD 50, their artistic, well-balanced presentations include roasted green tea hojicha, and currently, cookies and cream and kabocha squash. While many shaved ice operations like Ruby’s Sno-Balls in Dallas close for the winter, places like The Little One offer a selection of fine teas, hot chocolate, and other Japanese desserts along with kakigori, to please their customer base year-round. Photo Credits: Alan Li, Noah Fecks
Stephanie Prida, Pastry Chef, The Lobster Club, making strawberry shortcake kakigori topped with cream cheese custard and graham cracker crumbs.
Water-Based Ganaches By Julian Rose
s a chocolatier, I am often asked if heavy cream in a ganache can be replaced by another liquid such as a fruit juice or puree, coffee, wine, tea, beer or any other liquids. Or, more generally, what do I think about a “water-based ganache” as a concept? The answer is that all ganaches are water based, and the solution lies in analyzing the makeup of a ganache. In a nutshell, a ganache is a balanced mixture of liquids (cream, milk or water), dry solids (dry cocoa solids, sugars, milk solids), fats (cocoa butter, dairy butterfat, nut oils, vegetable oils) – added flavors or inclusions are optional. If we look at the typical ratio or percentage of those ingredients, we get an average of: 20 to 22% liquids maximum, 30% sugars minimum (including glucose syrup, invert sugar, dextrose, sorbitol, etc.), 21% cocoa butter minimum, 15% milk fat maximum, and 14% cocoa solids minimum. We swing between these number and aim for a good shelf life, a nice texture, a great flavor and an appropriate cost.
percentage of liquids is very important. So if we talk about using a 40% fat heavy cream, we basically have in 1 kilo of cream: 400 grams of milk fat, +/-515 grams of water and +/-85 grams of dry milk solids. If we decide to make a ganache without cream, we should replace the ingredients by an equal amount of other ingredients. For example, you could use 400 grams of clarified butter, 515 grams of red wine ,75 grams of milk powder and 10 grams of whey protein. This will result in a ganache with basically the same texture and shelf life, but, of course, with a different flavor. The magic happens as we create the emulsion with the liquids and the fats and force those elements to co-exist and keep the dry solids in suspension between the water and fat droplets. If the emulsion is not successful, it can be a disaster. You can compare the values and total weights of ingredients in the following two formulas. The first is made with cream, and in the second I simply replaced and tweaked some elements with equal values of other ingredients. These two recipes will yield products that will be very similar in texture, shelf life and perceived sweetness, but one of the recipes is creamfree.
While the source of those liquids is not really important, whatever you are removing or substituting from the total Pastry Arts
All ganaches are water based, and the solution lies in analyzing the makeup of a ganache. Dark Chocolate Ganache
Dark Chocolate Ganache
with Cream, for Framing
with Water, for Framing
(38-day shelf life)
(38-day shelf life)
• 735 g Valrhona Manjari chocolate 64% (48.86%) • 335 g heavy cream, 30% fat (22.27%) • 48 g skim milk (3.19%) • 127 g glucose syrup DE42 (8.53%) • 74 g invert sugar (4.93%) • 65 g crystalized dextrose (4.35%) • 116 g anhydrous butter, 99.5 % fat (7.77%)
• 735 g Valrhona Manjari chocolate 64% (49%) • 270 g water (or red wine) (18%) • 10 g whey powder (0.67%) • 90 g glucose syrup DE42 (6%) • 52 g invert sugar (3.47%) • 238 g anhydrous butterfat, 99.5 % fat (15.87%) • 105 g crystalized dextrose (7%)
Here is the breakdown of elements and percentages in this ganache: (Total dry solids: 80.57%; water: 19.43% = 100%)
Here is the breakdown of elements and percentages in this ganache: (Total dry solids: 80.06%; water: 19.94% = 100%)
• Defatted cocoa: 13.51% • Fats with 21 to 32°C melt point: 14.45% (pure butter fat) • Fat with 33°+ C melt point: 18.31% (cocoa butter) • Sweetness index: 18 • AW 84.44
• Defatted cocoa: 13.52% • Fats with 21 to 32°C melt point: 15.87% (pure butterfat) • Fat with 33°+ C melt point: 18.33% (cocoa butter) • Sweetness index: 18 • AW 85.16
Chef Julian Rose joined Portland-based Moonstruck Chocolate Co. as its Master Chocolatier and Director of Research and Development in October 2007. In 2009, he was named one of the ‘Top 10 Chocolatiers in America’ by Dessert Professional Magazine. In 2017, Julian returned to consulting with the purchase of the Pro-Choc software system from world-renowned chocolatier Jean-Pierre Richard, MOF. Contact him through www.julianroseconsulting.com. 26
New & Notable
Deck the Halls with New Pastry Stuff Pastry Chef’s Boutique, an excellent online source for cutting-edge pastry ingredients, equipment and recipes, has some great new holiday products available, including the following: From Cedric Grolet’s new line of silicone molds for Pavoni is the Pavoflex individual entremets hazelnut (noisette) mold. Each mold has eight cavities measuring 54 x 60 mm, and has been designed with small variations that give the finished dessert a handcrafted appeal. This product is also available as a lemon and chestnut mold. Another holiday item from Pavoni is the Thermoformed Fringe Christmas Tree Mold Set. This kit contains molds to create beautiful chocolate Christmas trees to use as gifts, amenities or to decorate your gingerbread village. Also featured on the site are high-quality pastry boxes that are ideal for yule log cakes. Each box measures 35 x 14 x 14 cm and comes in a pack of 25. Boxes are available in a marbled gold or glossy black and white design. For pricing and more info on these and other products, visit www.pastrychefsboutique.com.
Flower Pro Flower Pro is a range of innovative molds and veiners designed to help pastry chefs and cake decorators create beautiful flowers, roses, ferns and leaves. The line was developed by renowned cake designer Nicholas Lodge, who teaches professional sugar flower decoration internationally, and the team at Katy Sue Designs, recipients of multiple awards in product development. The full Flower Pro line includes five molds/veiners: Fern Mold, MultiLeaf Veiner, Ultimate Filler Flowers Mold, Rose Cones and thorns Mold, and the Ultimate Petal Veiner. There’s also a Flower Pro Vol. 1 book, which gives detailed instructions for each flower creation. To purchase, visit https:// katysuedesigns.us.com/collections/flowerpro. For more info and for support videos, visit the Flower Pro Facebook page at www. facebook.com/groups/FlowerPro.
Tabletop Melanger Here’s something chocolatiers should put on their holiday gift list: The new DCM Melanger 20, a spaceefficient, all stainless steel, tilting refiner that is plug-andplay ready. This professional, tabletop model features high-quality, all-natural granite roller stones that refine particle size down to less than 20 microns. This machine creates great shear, enabling a faster working time and allowing for maximum retention of the beans’ inherent qualities. The machine can be easily disassembled for cleaning and maintenance, while a universal base allows makers to easily swap out one sized bowl for another depending on production/quantity demands. Optional smaller sized bowls can be purchased to run different batch sizes. Spare bowls can also be purchased to reduce cross-contamination of different ingredients: nuts, milk powders, sweeteners, different bean origins, etc. For more info, visit www.melangers.com.
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Fennville, MI 49408-8671
Guittard Celebrates 150 Years
To celebrate its 150th year of making chocolate, familyowned Guittard Chocolate Company is releasing Eureka Works, a limited-edition chocolate blend formulated for everything from confectionary use to baking applications. Eureka Works is named after the first factory that founder Etienne Guittard opened in San Francisco during the Gold Rush, and the blend evokes the West Coast flavor profile of that time. Before the Panama Canal was built, there was a distinct taste difference between East Coast and West Coast chocolate based on the cacao varieties regional chocolate makers were able to source. Gary Guittard, fourth generation CEO and chocolate maker, was inspired by Etienne’s recipe books and a vintage ad showing Guittard’s early cocoa sourcing map to recreate the original West Coast flavor profile with a blend from likeminded cocoa growers in Ecuador, Indonesia, Hawaii and Brazil. Eureka Works also reflects Guittard’s ongoing leadership in sustainable cocoa sourcing and stewardship. The company sources fine flavor cacao from cocoa-growing regions around the world, showcasing the flavors unique to each country through their roasting and blending expertise. For every Eureka Works bar sold, 5% of the proceeds will go to the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund to support its work promoting the preservation of fine flavor cacao. According to Gary Guittard, “Everyone 30
who purchases the Eureka Works bar will get a taste of Guittard’s history and help ensure the preservation of heirloom cacao for the next 150 years.” Eureka Works 62% is a complex, chocolate blend reflecting the Pacific trade routes that led to San Francisco bringing the beans Etienne would have sourced. As an inspirational early 20th century Guittard ad cited, “…the aromatic cocoa of the Indies. Richly colored, fine, full beans from Samoa in the South Seas. Mellow, deeply flavored beans from the Tropical Americas.” Collection Etienne Eureka Works 62% Bittersweet Chocolate ($29.95 / 500-gram bar in gift box) is available exclusively at Guittard.com. Find tasting notes, recipes, and a list of chefs and restaurants creating desserts with Eureka Works at Guittard.com/150. Cases of the bar can be purchased at www.guittard.com/ our-chocolate/detail/eureka-works-62-cacaolimited-edition.
Rose’s Baking Basics Hot off the press, here’s a book that both pastry professionals and home bakers will adore: Rose’s Baking Basics (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2018). Over the decades, Rose Levy Beranbaum has established herself as a baking expert, and her comprehensive and detailed cookbooks have earned her numerous awards. With more than 600 instructive photos that detail step-by-step instructions for 100 “essential” recipes, this book is ideal for bakers of every level. The recipe collection is an assortment of new favorites and old classics, including Rose’s Pure Chocolate Flourless Cake, Milk Chocolate Caramel Tart, classic Carrot Cake and Japanese Milk Bread. Available at Amazon.
Valrhona Signature Valrhona recently launched an exciting new range of premium chocolate and pastry decorations called Valrhona Signature. This line of transfer sheets, 3D sheets, and chocolate decorations is made exclusively with Valrhona’s Grand Cru chocolates including Guanaja 70% dark, Jivara 40% milk and Opalys 33% white chocolate. As part of their commitment to bring the chefs the highest quality products, the Valrhona Signature line is made using 100% pure cocoa butter, is completely AZO-free, and available with many natural, non-synthetic colorants. The transfer sheets will add a chic pop of color and design to desserts or bonbons, while the 3D sheets can offer an extra level of texture to any creation. To explore Valrhona’s range of molds, tools and accessories, visit https://us.valrhona. com/. Pastry Arts
for Pavoni Italia
For its 2019 collection, Pavoni Italia has once again collaborated with pastry chef Antonio Bachour to expand their Pavoflex line of silicone molds with six new individual portion and six bonbon praline molds. The designs are a mix of captivating pop and minimalist shapes. “The partnership with Pavoni Italia is extremely satisfying,” said Chef Bachour.
“In Pavoni, I found a team of dynamic, creative professionals who are committed to internationalization, and always ready to take on the challenges of future market trends. Pavoni manages to turn my ideas into reality. It is a mutual enrichment, of which I am particularly proud.” To see all the designs in this and other Pavoni collections, visit www. pavonitalia.com. 32
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Dreaming Big in the USA By Tish Boyle
or Antonio Bachour, opening his namesake bakery in Miami in 2016 was the realization of a lifelong dream. In fact, it was the culmination of everything he had worked towards since he left his hometown in Puerto Rico at the age of 19 to study at L’Ecole Valrhona in France. But it wasn’t long before this dream turned into a real nightmare, which eventually forced Bachour to turn his back on the project. One of the boldest and most creative talents on the modern pastry scene, Bachour boasts an Instagram following of over 713,000, has garnered numerous awards and culinary honors, and is regarded as a bona fide rock star in the pastry world. So it was no surprise that from the first day its doors opened, Bachour Bakery and Bistro was a resounding success. Patrons flocked to the bakery/restaurant from all over the world, lured by Bachour’s celebrity and his reputation for cutting-edge desserts in vibrant hues and intricate viennoiseries. The lines ran out the front door and snaked around the block. After six months, the restaurant was doing about $68,000 a week in business, and that was serving breakfast and lunch only. One Saturday, they sold over 1000 croissants. “We really wanted to make sure
that everyone was blown away by what they saw when they first walked in,” he said. “One woman, she walked in and looked around and then smiled and said, ‘Wow. When I make it to heaven, this is exactly what I want to see!’ We were supposed to be open from seven in the morning to seven at night, but by 5:30 or 6 o’clock on that first day, we had to close the doors because our display cases were empty.” Just over a year later, Bachour walked away from the restaurant and bakery. “My partners didn’t want to spend money on quality ingredients,” he said. “I use Valrhona chocolate, butter from France and the best puree. Two years ago, we were paying seven dollars a pound for butter, and we used about 30 pounds per day. For me, 80 percent of what a good chef does today is about ingredients. You can be a great chef, you can be the best chef in the world, but if you use poor quality ingredients, it’s not going to work,” said Bachour. “I put my heart into that business. But when you have a business partner that doesn’t have the same vision, it’s a problem. I was using the best ingredients, but my food cost ranged from 19 to 22 percent. Cost is cost – you have to build the cost into the retail prices.
My goal is to open the best bakery in the United States and I want to make it a destination for pastry for people all over the world. 36
We made a gianduja croissant, for example, and we used Valrhona gianduja for it. Each croissant was filled with 28 grams of gianduja. The food cost for the plain croissant was 40 cents, and then you add 30 cents for the chocolate, that makes the cost 70 cents. We charged $4.50 for each croissant, and we sold over 100 of them every day,” he explained. “But when you start with this conflict about quality, it’s not going to work, because it’s my name on the door.” Bachour’s partners did not share his view on the importance of using quality ingredients, however. Bachour offered to buy out his three partners, but after some negotiation, he ended up selling them his part of the business. Once Bachour left, the owners promptly changed the name of the business to B Bistro and Bakery. Bachour spent the next year focusing on teaching classes around the world – Dubai, Turkey, Italy, China, Hungary, Brazil – and consulting. In the past two years, he has flown over two million miles to accommodate his busy teaching and consulting schedule. Last year he signed a contract with the Moon Palace, a group of all-inclusive fivestar hotels in Cancun, where rooms average $1000 per night (www.moonpalacecancun. com). Bachour oversees the pastry operation for the fifteen restaurants at the resorts. The company has a central commissary kitchen with over 150 employees in the pastry department, and each hotel has its own pastry chef and about twenty employees dedicated to pastry. “We do about 20,000 individual desserts a day here and about 15,000 croissants. In the beginning it was really crazy—people pay and then they can eat whatever they want. And when they charge $1000 a night, you have to deliver the best. The first thing I did was upgrade their chocolate to Valrhona and Republica de Cacao right away. The hotel buys about 100 tons of chocolate every year – that’s a lot! But we have to use the best ingredients,” he declared. “I told the owner when he hired me
You can be a great chef, you can be the best chef in the world, but if you use poor quality ingredients, it’s not going to work.
that we need to have a school here to teach the employees. So we did that, too.” Bachour has another two years left on this contract with Moon Palace, a job that requires him to travel to Cancun every month. Now, a year and a half after he left the first incarnation of Bachour restaurant, Antonio Bachour’s dream of opening his own place has been revived – he is on the brink of opening a 5,550 square foot restaurant and bakery in downtown Coral Gables, an upscale area of South Miami. Having learned a lesson or two from his first venture, Bachour decided to have only one partner in the business – his brother, who lives two blocks away from the new location. “It’s going to be a small bakery and restaurant together with about 75 to 120 seats. It will be the kind of place where you can walk in and get a croissant and a coffee if you like, or have a full breakfast or lunch. In the front we will have beautiful viennoiseries filling our large, glass ifi display cases from Italy.
When I teach these classes, I always want to do something that has a real ‘wow factor.’ It’s very expensive for people to take these classes, so I want to make it worth their while.
Mostly, I want to do something that makes me really proud, something exceptional.
The barista station will be right next to it. There will be tables outside in the front, and also some around the side and in the main courtyard of the building. Every day we’ll have a trolley outside to serve afternoon tea. There will also be a workshop where I’ll teach classes, which will be surrounded by glass so that customers can have a coffee and croissant and see me in action if they want.” The restaurant will serve breakfast, lunch and brunch. The menu will include fresh bread, viennoiserie, salads, sandwiches and, of course, a large selection of Bachour’s desserts and entremets. On weekends, brunch will be served all day. Beginning in February, 2019, Bachour will be teaching one class per week at the bakery to professionals who want to hone their pastry skills. He also has about 40 classes booked at pastry schools around the world, including three in China. He plans on cancelling half of these classes in order to spend time focusing
on his new shop. “When I teach these classes, I always want to do something that has a real ‘wow factor.’ It’s very expensive for people to take these classes, so I want to make it worth their while. For three days it costs about $1000 for a class, plus the expense of the flight, plus the hotel – so it’s about $4000 for three or four days. So students want to see something new, not the same old thing, and I try to deliver that.”
It’s going to be a small bakery and restaurant together with about 75 to 120 seats. It will be the kind of place where you can walk in and get a croissant and a coffee if you like, or have a full breakfast or lunch.
Bachour has also been working on a joint venture with Italian mold company Pavoni. Last year he designed ten silicone and ten bonbon molds for them. Pavoni sold 100,000 of his bonbon molds alone, and his silicone molds are the #1 best sellers for the company. This year he designed another twenty molds for them – ten individual dessert molds and ten bonbon molds – and is currently working on a new line of color for entremets and bonbons. “Italy is a huge market for pastry,” says Bachour. “The pastry scene has really exploded there. It used to be very classic, very traditional, but now there’s a real revolution going on there. Gastronomy in Italy has become so elevated. There are so many twoand three-Michelin star restaurants in Rome and Milan. And there is an amazing pastry school there, CAST Alimenti in Bergamo – some of the best pastry chefs in the world are teaching there.” For now, though, Antonio Bachour’s primary goal is to elevate the pastry scene here in the U.S. “Mostly, I want to do something that makes me really proud, something exceptional,” he declares. “My goal is to open the best bakery in the United States and I want to make it a destination for pastry for people all over the world.” No sugar-coating in that statement. But, after all, isn’t determination the stuff that dreams are made of?
There will also be a workshop where I’ll teach classes, which will be surrounded by glass so that customers can have a coffee and croissant and see me in action if they want.
Photo Credits: Matteo Lonati, Simone Giannini Pastry Arts
White Sugar the Boot
By Miro Uskokovic with Shilpa Uskokovic
he war on sugar might not be as loud and public as the war on fat once was, but we’re seeing a slow and steady increase in awareness of the negative impacts of traditional refined white sugar on our health.
As pastry chefs, whose passion and livelihood is based around sugar, our responsibility is to listen, be aware and be leaders of change. To that, some may say “you’re not my doctor, you’re just here to make me my birthday cake and favorite treats.” Sure, pastry chefs are not doctors, but trust me, most doctors may not be more qualified themselves, since they receive little or no formal training about nutrition and the role food plays in our health. Plus, the average American visits their doctor four times a year, but eats out, on average, four times PER WEEK. So chefs and food professionals are definitely a part of people’s lives way more than their doctors are! Knowing this, it’s almost a responsibility and a requirement for us chefs to not just make food delicious and free from food-borne illnesses, but to stay informed and make the right choices when it comes to the ingredients we put in front of our customers. much of our reliance on standardized, commercial ingredients is driven by an idea of perfection. Light, fluffy cakes and ivory white icings are the industry standard. And that perfection is in turn strongly influenced by industrial and manufacturing giants with vested interests. Sure these ingredients will reveal a consistent product that most people
have been conditioned to like and expect, but they have no flavor, barely any nutritional value and are pumped full of chemicals and pesticides that are destructive to the environment. Consider pure sucrose or common white sugar – the most widely used form of sugar in professional and home kitchens across the world. By the time sugar is packaged, it has been stripped of all its flavor components and engineered to be just one-dimensionally sweet. Just like all the other ingredients typically used in Western baking and desserts – such as flour, butter and eggs – all standardized, homogenized and essentially flavorless. No wonder we are constantly reaching for things like vanilla beans and extracts to add flavor and aroma to our creations. But with vanilla beans prices up to a whopping $500 per pound, we no longer have the luxury and budget to blindly reach for it as a flavor fallback. I think it’s time to reevaluate our choices and look for flavor in other ingredients. And why not start with the star ingredient of pastry kitchens: sugar? Alternative sugars have a vast array of flavors, colors and textures, ranging from dry, powdery and camel-colored to thick, syrupy burnished liquids. They also contain some essential trace minerals and, most importantly, employ organic farming methods that are inarguably way, way better for the planet and people than pesticide-ridden practices. Look, organic and alternative sugars are not a magical potion. They are in no way healthier than regular white sugar, as all sugar is essentially a carbohydrate and must be consumed in moderation. They also have their own challenges. These sugars vary in color, flavor and intensity, from batch to batch and producer to producer. So pastry chefs will have to start thinking more like our savory counterparts and rely on intuition more, not just recipes and rules. But I would argue that this makes our daily job more exciting and interesting. Pastry Arts
My favorite is jaggery from India, which has a tan caramel color with a mild sweetness and fruity, brown butter flavor.
Switching to a refined white sugar-free kitchen at Gramercy Tavern and at home was in part driven by a personal motive when I was diagnosed with Crohn’s disease in 2015. Since then I’ve become more and more invested in moving away from industrialized ingredients, and sugar in particular has been my great interest. Here are some favorite sugars of mine: Organic, Granulated and/or Powdered Cane Sugar: The easiest substitute for refined white sugar and my go-to all-purpose option. This partially refined sugar is certified to be “grown, milled and packaged free of any petrochemicals in accordance with earthfriendly methods.” Most major brands like Wholesome do not use chemicals or animal by-products typically used in sugar refining, making organic sugars ideal for vegans and those following kosher or halal diets. Organic sugar contains trace elements of molasses, which give it wonderfully buttery and 44
caramel-y notes. It also has a pale golden hue that will darken some products. A good example is simple syrup. When made with organic sugar, the syrup will be clearly darker, with a straw-like color. The molasses content will also make for a chewier product, particularly noticeable in things like the marshmallowy middle of a Pavlova (a fully dehydrated meringue, however, has no noticeable texture difference). Substitute 1:1 in place of refined white sugar. At Gramercy Tavern we use Wholesome brand of organic cane sugar (granulated and powdered), but at home I use Costco brand, which has finer crystals and dissolves quicker. Crystal size is one major difference between brands. If the sugar crystals are on the larger side, it is preferable to grind them down in a food processor so they can better dissolve for products like cake batter or meringues. When used in things like ice cream bases or pastry creams, crystal size is less relevant.
Non-Centrifugal Cane Sugar (NCS): The technical name given to sugars produced by simply evaporating water from sugarcane juice. Aside from sucrose and other types of sugars like fructose or glucose, NCS contains traces of water and minerals like zinc, magnesium and copper. It can also contain proteins, particles of wood ash and bagasse fibers from the cooking process. Most sugarcane growing regions of the world produce some form of NCS under different local names like jaggery or gur in Southeast Asia and panela or rapadura in Latin America. NCS is usually sold in blocks, but is increasingly available in granulated form as well, which makes it much easier to use and store. My favorite is jaggery from India, which has a tan caramel color with a mild sweetness and fruity, brown butter flavor. It can contain up to 20% water and invert sugar, which makes it more hygroscopic (holds on to moisture better). It can be used in place of brown sugar, or even granulated sugar. It will produce chewier cookies and
more moist, fine-crumbed cakes and creamier ice cream. Most Indian grocery stores carry jaggery. Muscovado sugar can also fall under this category if produced through traditional methods (mainly sourced from India). Muscovado sugar from the Philippines and Africa is generally more likely to be made with modern processes including centrifuges. Date Palm Sugar/ Date Jaggery: Made from sap extracted from date palm trees and minimally processed by boiling it down to evaporate almost all moisture until it crystallizes. This is my favorite alternative sugar due to its robust and complex taste reminiscent of prunes and dried cherries. Most of the date sugar in America, commonly found in Indian grocery stores, comes from Bangladesh. This sugar is soft and crumbly and is the perfect substitute for dark brown sugar. It makes the best sticky toffee date cake when combined with fresh Medjool dates and date syrup.
The flavor and color of the honey depends on the bee’s diet and can vary greatly from mild flavored and light colored acacia to strong and dark buckwheat honey.
Date Sugar: Not sugar at all, but dried and ground-up dates. I do not suggest using it in baking unless you are subbing it in a recipe in place of dates themselves. Date sugar absorbs too much liquid, doesn’t dissolve since it’s not a true sugar, and has a resulting grainy texture with comparatively less sweetness. I use this at home in smoothies or to top my yogurt. Coconut Palm Sugar: Made from sap extracted from coconut palm flowers and minimally processed by evaporating water from it. It has a faint smell to it that disappears once cooked. Due to its lower glycemic index, it has grown in popularity recently among certain consumers. I like to use it in the fall and winter months as it has beautiful caramel and toffee overtones that go well with cold weather fruit like pears and apples. 46
Maple Sugar: Made by boiling maple tree sap past the point needed to create maple syrup, taffy or butter. Almost all the water is evaporated. What’s left is mostly sucrose with a minimal amount of fructose and glucose. It is the one alternative sugar that can be substituted in equal measure, 1:1 (by weight) for granulated sugar without a noticeable difference in texture. The taste, of course, will be greatly affected, with the final product having a very strong and predominantly maple taste. I like to use this sugar in sugar cookies and pecan pies. Sucanat: A trademarked brand name of minimally processed cane sugar introduced by the company Pronatec in 1978. Similar to jaggery or panela, but much more drier. Due to its irregular granules, it requires grinding in a spice grinder if used in baking. I like to use it to add texture on top of baked goods like quick breads, coffee cakes and other breakfast pastries. It adds a great crunch similar to raw sugar, but with a more complex, honey-like taste. Honey: A viscous liquid made by honey bees from flower nectar, usually processed to remove impurities like beeswax and flower pollen. The flavor and color of the honey depends on the bee’s diet and can vary greatly from mild flavored and light colored acacia to strong and dark buckwheat honey. One of the
hardest sugars to work with, not just due to the strong taste, but because of its chemical composition, as well. It’s made up of mainly fructose and glucose, some water and a little sucrose. As fructose is the most hygroscopic of all sugars, baked goods made with honey will hold onto more water. That’s why cakes made with honey can have a denser, almost gummy texture when too much honey is used. Also, since honey is more acidic, it will affect the formation of gluten in bread and cakes. But in small quantities, honey can add the perfect amount of moisture and a nice floral scent. Date Syrup: My favorite liquid sugar with its dark wine-y color and fruity notes. Date syrup can replace any liquid sugar in your recipe, like honey, molasses or corn syrup. Not all date syrups are created equal. Look for those that are 100% date syrup, not diluted with a mixture of corn syrup and/or molasses, as many brands are. My go-to is from a company called The Date Lady. I like date syrup in caramel sauces, cakes, ice creams and also love to finish dishes with it, even some savory ones, as the taste is just so good. It works well with berries, plums, and cherries. Maple Syrup: Made from the sap extracted from a maple tree. The sap is reduced just enough so the final product is thick and dark, but still liquid. It’s mostly sucrose with about
Sorghum juice is extracted in a similar manner as sugar cane juice and boiled to make the syrup. 25% water and some invert sugar. Syrup produced early in the season tends to be lighter in color with a subtle taste and becomes darker and more robust as the season progresses. I love maple syrup with sweet cherries and oats. Sorghum Syrup: Made from the juice of the sorghum plant, a tall grass that resembles corn with a cone-shaped head filled with tiny seeds. Sorghum juice is extracted in a similar manner as sugar cane juice and boiled to make the syrup. Consistency varies between brands, and it can be as thick as molasses or as thin as maple syrup. It has a clean, fruity taste and its color ranges from light and murky to toasty dark. I particularly love this syrup in sauces and in combination with chocolate or dried fruit. Carob Molasses: A thick, robust, dark syrup made by soaking crushed carob pods in water and boiling down the resulting liquid. It’s produced mainly in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern regions. It has a fruity taste with a strong, bitter note similar to coffee. It should be used in small quantities, just like honey.
Serbian-born Miro Uskokovic is the Pastry Chef of Gramercy Tavern in New York City. Pastry Arts
Modern Uses For An Ancient & Singularly Flavorful Grain By Tish Boyle
ncient grains have officially been embraced by consumers. Take a stroll down the cracker aisle of any supermarket in this country, and you’ll see the evidence –big food manufacturers are launching more and more products that feature spelt, millet, teff, einkorn or any other grain that’s deemed ancient and exotic. But it’s not just the giant food companies that are tapping this trend. Bakers and pastry chefs are also hopping on the ancient grain bandwagon, and einkorn, with its sweet, nutty flavor, golden color and versatile baking profile, is gaining traction as a favored grain for bread as well as other pastries and desserts. Einkorn was the first wild seed that was planted and gathered by Neolithic farmers, according to Carla Bartolucci, the author of Einkorn: Recipes for Nature’s Original Wheat (Clarkson Potter, 2015). “All wheat is a descendant of wild einkorn,” she writes. “During the Bronze Age, einkorn was slowly abandoned by farmers for higher-yielding varieties.” Targeted hybridization, the process of crossing different species of plants to form a new variety, has long been used to create grains with higher yields or ease of growing. Einkorn, however, is the only wheat grain that has not been hybridized. In fact, the word einkorn means ‘single grain’ in German. “Einkorn’s fall in popularity is actually its saving grace,” notes Bartolucci. “Because it survived as a relic grain, its seeds were not selectively harvested or
bred for improvements, and it has remained as it was, just as nature intended.” Which means it contains more nutrients and, consequently, more flavor. This flavor has been described by aficionados as ‘nutty’ and ‘buttery,’ with one baker saying it was reminiscent of roasted corn. As for gluten, einkorn actually has a higher percentage of protein in it than modern wheat, but the quality of the gluten in doughs made from einkorn is different. Dry flour contains groups of proteins called glutenins and gliadins, and glutenins are further classified as ‘high molecular weight’ and ‘low molecular weight’ proteins. “While einkorn has enough gluten for bread baking, it is lacking in certain high molecular weight proteins,” writes Bartolucci, “and you can feel how much it differs in its extreme stickiness and reduced elasticity.”
Baking with Einkorn Because of its unique properties, baking with einkorn can be a challenge. “Finding the right balance between proper hydration and manageability is the key to success,” says Bartolucci. “I recommend starting with drier dough until you feel comfortable handling the sticky nature of einkorn, then moving on to the wetter dough.” Einkorn Linzer Cookies from Jovial Foods
Maurizio Leoâ€™s Einkorn Sourdough from The Perfect Loaf.
Maurizio Leo, a software engineer-turned baker and creator of The Perfect Loaf blog, feels the benefits of einkorn outweigh the challenges of working with it. “Einkorn has an incredible depth of flavor not found in many other grain varieties. It imparts a nutty, almost buttery, flavor to baked goods. Additionally, it lends a soft, supple texture and a beautiful creamy hue to the interior and exterior crust. Nutritionally, einkorn has higher protein, vitamins and minerals than other wheat varieties.” Leo routinely uses einkorn wheat when baking sourdough bread. “It can be a challenge,” he says, “especially in a recipe that’s 100 percent einkorn, but the results are incredibly delicious. I start with a lower hydration dough and work the hydration up through mixing, as einkorn isn’t typically able to handle the same amount of water as other wheat varieties. From there, gentle mixing is all that’s needed. I have several recipes on my website (www.theperfectloaf.com) for einkorn bread, including an einkorn miche with a mix of flour types and a recipe with 100 percent einkorn flour. I’ve also made 100 percent einkorn canelé many times, and they turn out fantastic. The golden color in the canelé adds to its appeal, as does the unique flavor and tender interior.” Leo doesn’t recommend using 100 percent einkorn flour in most recipes. “If the pastry requires strong gluten for structure, then it would be best to first start with a small percentage of einkorn and work it up through testing.” Francisco Migoya, Head Chef of Modernist Cuisine and co-author of Modernist Bread (The Cooking Lab, 2017), uses relatively low percentages of einkorn flour in bread. “If I do use it, it is always in combination with a strong bread flour (anything with 12 to 14 percent protein), and no more than 20 to 30 percent of the total weight of the flour. I find it even better to either cook, soak or sprout them [einkorn wheat berries], and then fold them into a dough. That way they don’t produce
Tiramisu from Carla Bartolucci, made with all-purpose einkorn flour. what I consider to be dense and low volume breads, and you can get all of their flavor and texture.” According to Bartoluccii, experimentation, patience, and keeping an open mind are keys to success when working with einkorn. “When I bake with einkorn, I challenge myself to work with a fresh mind and not treat the einkorn as an impediment, but as an opportunity. You will have tremendous, delicious success with it once you let go of certain standard baking practices. You will actually see and feel the difference in this flour: Silky smooth and golden in color, einkorn flour will reward you with flavorful, wholesome breads and baked goods.” Einkorn flour, wheat berries and other einkorn products are available from www. jovialfoods.com. Pastry Arts
At the Intersection of Fashion, Art & Business By Robert Wemischner
or over 25 years, Ron Ben-Israel has been breaking new ground in the decorated cake world, where his work resides at the intersection of fashion, edible art and a service business. With numerous stints as a judge on a variety of television food shows (Sweet Genius and Cake Wars, among others) and multiple appearances on other lifestyle programs, Ben-Israel finds himself most at home in his NYC-based cake studio, immersing himself in a creative milieu and producing, by his own estimate, about 400 cakes per year, serving thousands of guests per season. Catching up with him during his relatively quiet season (his peak times run from spring through early fall, when he and his staff of nine can produce upwards of 15 cakes per week), he took time to answer a few questions.
The Q&A What are you excited about at the moment in the world of cutting-edge cake design? I am excited about many things. For instance, I am always in anticipation of the next high season, but am focused now on holidaythemed cakes. This stage of development and evolution is a little like having stage fright. Until we find solutions for the challenges we set for ourselves, it can be a bit unnerving. In particular, at this time of year, I focus on advancing and perfecting new techniques. I am always developing silicone molds, sourcing swatches of lace and other materials to add to our fabric treatments for the cakes, looking at marble for ideas about swirling color. Out of this process emerged a source of pride for me, a knitted cake where the texture of wool informed the visuals on the cake.
Where do you find inspiration for your cakes? Inspiration is all around us; we just have to be open to it. I look to many different art forms, including dance [Ben-Israel was a professional dancer early in his adult life] and music (â€œmy cakes should have a sense of rhythm and not be too static, needing to be visually dynamic but structurally solidâ€?). I maintain a nice library of books on historical periods, fashion, furniture, French jewelry, all of which lead me to ideas I can apply to the cakes. I find inspiration in the draping of classical sculpture from Greek antiquity, as well as the patterns in Indian and Italian fabrics. Textural variety on a cake is everything to me. I dialogue with the stationery producers and calligraphers when the invitations for a wedding are being designed to create a cake that is congruent with their styles and ideas. Pastry Arts
What about color? I’m not a fan of super-white wedding cakes. I tone down the starkness by adding a bit of espresso to the Swiss buttercream. For nonWestern clients, red and wine colors are appealing. Metallics spell luxury on a cake. Rose gold is popular now. You see this tone in rosé wine. Our goal is to please the customer no matter what.
What are your thoughts about the use of fondant in your cakes? Fondant is the only thing we don’t make inhouse. We use Satin Ice brand. But the key is to use very thin layers of it placed on very well chilled cakes (34° F), which are swathed in Swiss meringue buttercream. One-sixteenth of an inch or even less is my goal. It’s been fun to collaborate with Satin Ice, a company in New York state, to develop black and navy-blue colored fondants.
I am always developing silicone molds, sourcing swatches of lace and other materials to add to our fabric treatments for the cakes, looking at marble for ideas about swirling color.
What are the hot flavors for cakes and fillings nowadays? The recent royal wedding cake featured elderflower, which spurred interest in a flavor that was previously unexplored. But dulce de leche is commonly requested. I always look to fellow pastry chefs to gain inspiration on flavor combinations. But when clients are ordering a wedding cake, they need to feel comfortable about the familiarity and accessibility of the flavors featured in the cake. Recently I had a customer who wished to use blueberry as a filling. My response: Why not? It’s perfect in a pie. Why not in a cake?
Inspiration is all around us; we just have to be open to it. I look to many different art forms, including dance and music.
What about customers who have dietary restrictions? In a service business, inevitably you must deal with allergies, whether real or imagined. Gluten, nut and dairy free are possible. But when it comes to sugar-free, I draw the line. I refuse. Sugar and I are codependent.
Speaking about customers, what are the challenges of dealing with the public? Planning weddings can be stressful, and sometimes customers are just not being realistic when it comes to budget. I have learned to say ‘No” when a customer wishes me to miniaturize a cake to serve fifty guests that was originally conceived as a cake for 700. I don’t like people to be disappointed and need to be totally transparent about what their cake entails. I take the customer relationship very seriously– working with families, discussing
their lives to gain insight as to their deepest wishes for what the cake means to them. As humans we are fallible, and we know that there can be conflicts. I have learned that you just have to step lightly, even where couples fight in front of me.
I’m not a fan of super-white wedding cakes. I tone down the starkness by adding a bit of espresso to the Swiss buttercream.
Any advice for new people entering the field?
Recently I had a customer who wished to use blueberry as a filling. My response: Why not? Itâ€™s perfect in a pie. Why not in a cake?
Photo Credits: Ron Ben-Israel Cakes, Maggie Marguerite Studios
Go to school. I could never afford to go to culinary school and therefore sought out mentors who welcomed me into their bakeshops and allowed me to practice my craft. I favor the old school mentorship or apprenticeship system. I disagree with anyone saying that they are self-taught. No one is self-taught. Everyone in the field has someone or many people who have influenced them, molded them, taught them. As someone who has learned much from others, it is my responsibility to continue that tradition of mentoring to move the art forward and to transmit what I have learned to others. I am really thrilled that pastry arts are continuing strongly. I love to hang out with other pastry chefs and help to build a sense of community. None of us works in a vacuum. We compete, which makes all of us better. Robert Wemischner is a longtime professional baking instructor at Los Angeles TradeTechnical College and the author of four books, including The Dessert Architect.
Huckleberry Clafoutis By Shaun Velez
his dessert is a traditional clafoutis tart using huckleberries and speculoos for the crust. I pair it with a goat’s milk sorbet to cut the richness of the custard. It’s accented with a huckleberry tuile on top to add a visually intriguing appearance. Yield: 14 servings
Goat’s Milk Ice Cream • • • • • • •
327 g goat’s milk 43 g heavy cream 2 pieces star anise 23 g milk powder 2 g ice cream stabilizer 34 g glucose powder 64 g granulated sugar
ring the goat’s milk, cream and star anise 1. B to a boil, then allow to steep for 30 minutes. 2. Rescale the total weight of milk and cream after it boils, adding more goat’s milk if necessary. At 104˚F, add milk powder, stabilizer, glucose powder and sugar. Bring to a boil, strain and rest overnight. 3. The next day, process in ice cream machine.
Speculoos Sablé • • • • • • • • •
84 g confectioners’ sugar 133 g unsalted butter 50 g whole eggs 1 vanilla bean 3 g lemon juice 99 g cornstarch 49 g all-purpose flour 1 g salt 5 g ground cinnamon
1. Cream the confectioners’ sugar and butter together. Add the eggs, vanilla bean and lemon juice. Finish with dry ingredients, mixing until just combined.
2. Roll out or sheet dough, then line just the sides of individual tart rings with it. Freeze until firm. 3. Par-bake for 4 minutes at 350˚ F.
Huckleberry Clafoutis • • • • • • •
146 g granulated sugar 78 g all-purpose flour 97 g almond flour 194 g whole eggs 243 g heavy cream 243 g whole milk 140 g frozen huckleberries
1. Combine dry ingredients. 2. Combine wet ingredients, then handblend with dry ingredients. Allow to rest overnight in refrigerator. 3. Line bottom of par-baked rings with aluminum foil. Add 10 g frozen huckleberries to bottom of each tart ring, then pour over 80 g of the clafoutis base. Bake at 350˚F until set and light golden on top, about 14 minutes.
Huckleberry Sauce • • • • •
379 g huckleberries 76 g water 38 g granulate sugar 8 g maple syrup 1 g xanthan gum
1. Bring huckleberries, water, sugar and maple syrup to a boil. 2. Add to blender and process on high. Once smooth, sheer in xanthan gum and blend for 1 minute.
Huckleberry Tuiles • • • •
148 g confectioners’ sugar 175 g all-purpose flour 29 g Huckleberry Sauce (above) 148 g heavy cream
1. Place sugar and flour in food processor and while running machine, stream in liquid. Spread on Silpat and with a fine metal comb brush straight lines through batter. 2. Bake at 300˚F for 4 minutes and shape while inside oven.
Maple Butter • 100 g maple syrup • 10 g glucose powder • 1 g lemon juice 1. Combine all ingredients and cook to 234˚F. Cool down to 68˚F. Once cooled, whip with a paddle until the butter becomes shiny and slightly loose. Store in refrigerator until firm.
Plating 1. Warm tart in oven for about 4 minutes. Pipe the sauce on the plate in random size dots. Once tart is out of oven, place on plate. Put some sauce on the upper right hand side of the tart and a spoonful of Maple Butter on the bottom left hand side of the tart. Scoop the ice cream onto plate and finish with strips of Huckleberry Tuile on top. 60
Pastry Chef, Café Boulud, New York, NY
I’ve always wanted to cook, but my first real lifechanging experience in the kitchen was staging with Ghaya Oliveira at Bar Boulud, before she became the Pastry Chef at Restaurant DANIEL. She had the foundation, the fundamentals, she was creative and had French technique, which I was really interested in. Prior to that experience, I was mostly working in American restaurants where I learned many of the basics, but under Ghaya I learned how to use specific ingredients and combine flavors.
The way I would best describe it is taking classic desserts that are more universal and bringing a more modern technique to them in terms of plating, flavor, or adding a specific spice that’s unexpected but somewhat familiar. Something that you would be surprised isn’t in the original preparation.
Favorite Down-Home Dessert
Lemon meringue pie and Key lime pie, especially after a night out.
Inspiration for New Recipes
I usually build off of base recipes that I have and go from there. For example, I’ll have a plain vanilla ice cream base that I will add spices to or an eggless ice cream base that I can add seasonal fruit purée to. I have to test and readjust, but have something to start off of and get creative with.
Ghaya Oliveira was my first mentor – she taught me everything I know in terms of building balanced desserts. She’s also become a very good friend of mine.
Best Career Advice
Keep your head down, do the work and don’t be afraid to ask tons of questions. Urgency and precision are key.
Modern Marjolaine By Sally Camacho Mueller
his is my take on a classic Marjolaine, which is one of my favorite historic French gateaux. I love making it in this particular style, since it’s plated individually as opposed to the traditional manner of making it in a framed form and cutting it into rectangles. The layers are assembled à la minute, which ensures a harmonious bite. Generally, I love working with nougatines to add a crisp texture and a pop of salt. You also can’t go wrong with the combination of coffee, hazelnut and chocolate. This has always been a popular dessert of mine and invariably sells well. Yield: 16 servings
Caramelized Hazelnuts • • • • • •
10 g glucose 32 g granulated sugar 10 g water 170 g hazelnuts, lightly toasted 6 g unsalted butter 1.3 g sea salt
1 In a large pot, cook the glucose, sugar and water to 234˚F. 2. Add hazelnuts all at once and stir until caramelized. Add butter and salt and stir well to separate nuts. Spread onto Silpat and cool completely. 3. Chop by hand and set aside.
Flourless Chocolate Biscuit • • • • • • •
145 g Guittard 64% chocolate 20 g Guittard Oban 100% chocolate 90 g unsalted butter 115 g fresh egg yolks 83 g granulated sugar, divided 173 g fresh egg whites Chopped Caramelized Hazelnuts (above)
1. Melt chocolates with butter over a double boiler. 2. Whip egg yolks with 33 g of the sugar to ribbon stage. 3. Make a cold meringue with the egg whites and remaining 50 g sugar, whipping to medium peaks. 4. While the chocolate mixture is still warm, combine it with the whipped egg yolk mixture. Fold in meringue. 5. Spread batter onto Silpat-lined half sheet pan. Sprinkle with the Caramelized Hazelnuts. Bake at 375˚Ffor 6 minutes (or until done), turning halfway through baking.
Hazelnut Nougatine • • • • • •
35 g glucose syrup 48 g unsalted butter 60 g granulated sugar 1.5 g apple pectin 60 g hazelnut flour 1 g sea salt
1. Melt glucose and butter in a small pot. 2. Combine sugar and pectin well, then add to boiling glucose and butter mixture, whisking to emulsify. Bring to a boil and continue to cook for 2 minutes. Pastry Arts
3. Add nut flour and salt (do not allow to color). 4. Spread a thin layer of the hot mixture onto a half Silpat. Place a sheet of parchment paper on top and roll thin while the mixture is still hot. Bake at 300˚F for 8 to 10 minutes, or until evenly browned. 5. Invert nougatine onto a sheet of parchment paper and cut into 3” circles (do not cut on Silpat). Work in and out of the oven as needed, working as quickly as possible. Store in airtight container.
1. Bloom gelatin in ice water. 2. In a pot, combine milk and cream. Bring to scalding. 3. Temper in yolks combined with sugar. Cook to nappage or 185˚F. 4. Remove from heat and pour anglaise over chocolate. Add bloomed gelatin and mix with immersion blender. Place in ice bath to chill. Transfer to piping bag fitted with plain round tip. Reserve in cooler.
1. Heat heavy cream and espresso beans in a small pot. Infuse for 1 hour, then strain through a chinois. 2. Scale cream, adding more cream if necessary to weigh 505 g. 3. Reserve 140 g of the infused cream. Chill the remaining cream to 40˚F. 4. Whip eggs and sugar to ribbon stage. 5. Bloom gelatin in cold water. 6. Warm chocolate in microwave until slightly melted. 7. Scald reserved coffee-infused cream and pour over white chocolate. Combine until smooth. 8. Melt gelatin in microwave and add to ganache mixture. Mix with immersion blender until smooth. 9. Whip remaining infused cream to very soft peaks. 10. Combine the chocolate mixture with the egg mixture, then the whipped cream. Place in a pastry bag fitted with a sultan tip.
White Chocolate Espresso Mousse
Chocolate Cremeux • • • • • •
• • • • • • 64
2.5 g gelatin sheets 116 g whole milk 116 g heavy cream 47 g egg yolks 9 g granulated sugar 117 g Guittard 70% Complexité chocolate
505 g heavy cream 55 g espresso beans, toasted 93 g whole eggs 45 g granulated sugar 6 g gelatin sheets 235 g white couverture 35% Pastry Arts
• • • • • •
50 g whole milk 25 g heavy cream 25 g water 4 g instant espresso 85 g 70% Complexité chocolate 25 g glucose syrup
1. In a pot, combine milk, cream, water, and espresso. Bring to scalding. 2. Pour hot liquid over chocolate and glucose. Hand blend until smooth. Use slightly warm for plating.
Espresso Ice Cream • • • • • • • •
115 g espresso beans 925 g whole milk 225 g heavy cream 190 g granulated sugar 60 g atomized glucose 50 g non-fat dry milk powder 3 g ice cream stabilizer 45 g pasteurized egg yolks
1. Roast the espresso beans on a sheet pan at 350˚F for 10 minutes. Rotate pan and stir and bake for another 5 minutes. 2. In a pot, bring milk and cream to scalding. Toss in hot espresso beans. Let infuse off heat for 30 minutes. 3. Burmix the hot milk mixture to bruise the beans. 4. In a bowl, combine sugar, atomized glucose, milk powder, and stabilizer. 5. Turn pot back on to medium heat. Rain dry mixture into milk mixture. Continue to whisk. Allow the dry mixture to dissolve. Once dissolved, temper in egg yolks. Stir with a heat-safe spatula. Bring to 185˚F. Remove from heat. Allow to sit and steep for 30 minutes. 6. Strain through china cap, then strain through chinois. Burmix final product to insure smoothness and place in ice bath to chill. 7. Let mature for a minimum of 4 hours. 8. Spin in gelato machine 7-10 minutes. Extract into frozen smell-free stainless steel containers.
Coffee Meringue • • • • • •
100 g egg whites 100 g granulated sugar 50 g confectioners’ sugar 10 g cornstarch 5 g ground coffee Toasted hazelnuts, as needed
1. Make a cold meringue with the egg whites and granulated sugar. Whip to stiff peaks. 2. Sift confectioners’ sugar and cornstarch together and blend. Fold into meringue. Fold in ground coffee. Spread onto acetate sheet. Sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts. Dry in dehydrator overnight until crispy. (Meringue should have very little to no color.)
Coffee Gel • • • • •
100 g water 5 g instant espresso 1.2 g agar agar 25 g coffee liqueur 2 g gelatin sheets, bloomed in ice water
1. In a pot, bring water, instant espresso and agar agar to a boil. Remove from heat. Add liqueur and bloomed gelatin. Pour into a stainless steel container to allow to set. 2. Once set, blend in a Vita Prep blender until smooth. Cryovac mixture to remove bubbles. Place in a squeeze bottle for plate up.
Tempered Chocolate Plaques • Guittard L’etoile 64% chocolate • Caramel luster dust 1. Temper the chocolate to 88 to 89˚F. Use a stamp, or makeshift your own from cake cardboard. Stamp 3” circle chocolate onto acetate, then allow to crystallize. Brush with caramel luster color.
Plating 1. Use a brush to sauce the plate with Mocha Sauce. Place a 3” round of biscuit offcenter on plate. Pipe Chocolate Cremeux onto biscuit. Pipe a full sultan tip of white chocolate espresso mousse onto two pieces of nougatine. Place one nougatine on top of piped cremeux. Fill center with mocha sauce. Place a chocolate plaque onto mousse. Pipe more Chocolate Cremeux onto plaque. Place nougatine with piped mousse onto cremeux. Fill mousse center with Coffee Gel. Top off with another chocolate plaque. Place a piece of meringue onto plate where sauce is. Quenelle ice cream and place on meringue. Top off with a broken piece of meringue.
Sally Camacho Mueller
Executive Pastry Chef & Partner, Tesse Restaurant, West Hollywood, CA
Watching Julia Child and Jacques Pepin on T.V.
French pastry technique with Pacific Islander influence. Sometimes I feel rustic, and sometimes I feel like making petits gateaux. I love making wedding cakes!
Favorite Down-Home Dessert Proper bibingka with salted egg.
Inspiration for New Recipes
My culture of being Filipino. I like to integrate ingredients that may be found in Filipino cooking. I also love looking at different art mediums such as modern sculptures for inspiration.
My mentor, Donald Wressell. I was fortunate to work with him first in my career for many years. His thinking and technique is the utmost positive and of the highest standard – what a bar to set!
Best Career Advice
Seek out a mentor or someone you want to work for and get there. If you want to achieve a goal, make it happen. Do the work and earn it. Don’t expect it to be handed to you, especially overnight or on social media. Take the criticism that will be given to you, turn it into something that helps you grow into a positive person for the industry or for life.
Pumpkin Confit & Honey Masala Ice Cream By Pete Schmutte
y favorite part about using pumpkin in desserts is eating warm roasted pumpkin from the oven. You really don’t need anything else. After a few iterations, this dish really came down to the play between the pumpkin confit and the ice cream, and some warm fall textures to keep it interesting. Yield: 16 servings
• • • • • • •
1 (2-lb) pumpkin 450 g water 500 g granulated sugar Zest of 1 orange Zest of 1 lemon 1 cinnamon stick 1 star anise
Masala Spice Blend • • • • • • •
10 g ground cinnamon 4.5 g ground ginger 2 g ground fennel seeds ½ whole nutmeg 3 black cardamom pods 1 g ground coriander 3 long peppers
1. Use a vegetable peeler to peel the skin off the pumpkin. Cut the pumpkin in half and scoop out the seeds and guts. Remove the seeds and reserve the pumpkin skin and guts for pumpkin dust. Slice the pumpkin into pieces, about 2 ounces each, and set aside. 2. In a pot large enough to accommodate all of the pumpkin in one layer, combine the water, sugar, zests and spices. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a low simmer and add the pumpkin. Simmer for 1 hour total, flipping the pumpkin every 15 minutes. 3. Remove the pumpkin from the syrup with a slotted spoon onto a sheet pan. Let pumpkin and syrup both cool to room temperature. 4. Store the pumpkin in the cooled syrup.*
1. Combine all in a spice grinder and process until finely ground.
*For service, hold the pumpkin confit warm in syrup.
1. Combine the stabilizer with the sugar. 2. Combine milk, milk powder, and Masala and begin to heat. At 25˚C, add glucose powder and honey. At 35˚C, add melted butter. At 40˚C, add egg yolks. At 45˚C, add stabilizer mixture. Cook to 85˚C for 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Blend with immersion blender. Strain and chill in ice bath. Cover and allow to rest in cooler overnight. 3. Process in batch freezer.
Pumpkin Dust 1. Use the pumpkin skin and pumpkin guts that were saved from making the pumpkin confit. Place them in a dehydrator to dry out overnight. Once completely dry, grind them into a fine powder in a blender.
Honey Masala Ice Cream • • • • • • • • •
3 g ice cream stabilizer 30 g granulated sugar 920 g whole milk 57 g milk powder 6 g Masala Spice Blend (above) 60 g glucose powder 225 g honey 98 g melted butter 105 g egg yolks
Cranberry Puree • • • •
200 g whole cranberries 105 g granulated sugar Zest of 1 orange 50 g raspberry puree
1. Combine cranberries, sugar and orange zest into a 2-qt saucepot. Cover the top and place over low heat. Heat enough to dissolve sugar and just begin to break down the cranberries. 2. Transfer to a blender. Add the raspberry puree and blend until smooth. Chill. 3. Transfer to a sauce bottle.
Clotted Cream • 10 g gelatin sheets (silver) • 50 g water • 240 g clotted cream 70
• 350 g heavy cream • 120 g granulated sugar • 5 g vanilla paste 1. Bloom gelatin sheets in the water. Set aside. 2. Place clotted cream in a bowl and set aside. 3. Combine heavy cream, sugar and vanilla paste in a pot. Begin to warm over medium heat. Once it comes to a slight simmer, remove it from the heat, add the gelatin and whisk. Stream the heated cream into the clotted cream while whisking together. Pass through a chinois. Store in the refrigerator overnight. 4. The next day, place into a blender and blend smooth. Transfer to a piping bag.
Speculoos Crumble • 375 g all-purpose flour • 12 g ground cinnamon
• • • • • • • • • • •
1.5 g ground ginger 0.75 g ground nutmeg 0.75 g ground allspice 0.75 g ground cloves 1.5 g baking soda 1.25 g baking powder 4 g salt 300 g unsalted butter 135 g granulated sugar 67 g brown sugar 6 g vanilla extract
1. Sift together flour, spices, baking soda, baking powder and salt. 2 Cream butter in mixer. Add granulated and brown sugar and cream until incorporated. Add dry ingredients and mix until just combined. 3. Roll out on parchment and bake 325˚F for 20-25 minutes. Let cool completely to room temperature. 4. Grind to coarse crumbs in a food processor.
Plating • Fried sage leaves • Freeze-dried honey granules 1. Dust the plate with Pumpkin Dust on one side. Pipe the clotted cream near the center of the plate. Top with a piece of the pumpkin confit. Next to the pumpkin, spoon a mound of the speculoos crumble. Top the crumbs with a quenelle of Honey Masala Ice Cream. Surround the pumpkin and ice cream with spots of cranberry puree. Finish the dish with a few spoons of freeze-dried honey and fried sage leaves.
Photo Credit: Jessica Kartawich.
Pete Schmutte Pastry Chef, Beholder, Indianapolis, IN
The first book I remember really having an impact when I was completely green was Bo Friberg’s The Professional Pastry Chef. It’s been a long time, and a lot has changed in the industry since then, but it definitely sparked my curiosity. Shortly after that, Charlie Trotter’s Desserts opened my eyes to what elevated dining could be.
Simple, straightforward, clean.
Favorite Down-Home Dessert
Root Beer floats, malts, anything classic soda fountain.
Inspiration for New Recipes
Just about anything can serve as a jumping off point. It could be a single seasonal ingredient or component, a flavor combination, a technique, a plating idea or a piece of tableware. The idea gets brainstormed, refined to find the core of the dish, and refined again until we land on the finished dessert.
Antonio Bachour. He is one of the most talented chefs in the world today.
Best Career Advice
Expose yourself to as much as you can early on and try to understand what type of work you enjoy doing the most. Let that eventually guide the decisions you make and the path you choose. If you enjoy plated desserts, move toward restaurants. If you prefer cake decorating, or chocolates, confections, breads, find the places that will immerse you in those disciplines. If you prefer to cast a wider net, hotels and private clubs may be the way to go. Pastry Arts
Santa Yule Log
By Scott Green
ver the past decade or so, Yule logs have transformed from a simple roulade of sponge cake and buttercream into works of art in all shapes and sizes. Now, modern bûches de noël are more often entremets, simply cast in a Yule log shape. This bûche de noël plays off of the theme of Santa Claus in look and flavor profile. The eggnog and speculoos components mimick Santa’s “cookies and milk,” while the décor symbolizes Santa’s famous outfit, without being too literal in creation. The Raspberry Mousse is an acidic counter-point to the richness of the eggnog. While the Speculoos Ganache is on the sweeter side as well, the baking spices in it and the cake help to create overall balance.
Yield: 6 bûches de noël
Special Equipment: Silikomart TOR220x60 and TOR250x90 molds
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Day 1 Make the Spiced Cake. Make the Speculoos Ganache. Make the White Chocolate Glaze. Day 2 Make the Raspberry Mousse. Build the interior log and freeze. Make the Eggnog Mousse and add the interior insert. Make the end-cap decoration. Make the Chocolate Belt Buckle. Day 3 Unmold the Yule log. Glaze the log. Decorate the log.
110 g unsalted butter 200 g whole eggs 310 g all-purpose flour 5 g baking soda 110 g dark brown sugar 100 g granulated sugar 3 g salt 2 g ground cinnamon 2 g ground ginger 1 g freshly grated nutmeg 1 g ground cloves .5 g black pepper 200 g molasses 50 g inverted sugar 80 g vegetable oil 100 g coffee, freshly brewed
1. Bring the butter and whole eggs to room temp. before getting started. 2. Combine and sift the all-purpose flour and baking soda and reserve it to use later. 3. Combine the butter, dark brown sugar, granulated sugar, salt, and spices in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment.  Cream the mixture on medium speed for 3-4 minutes. 4. Combine the molasses, inverted sugar, and whole eggs. Add the wet and dry ingredients in three additions, mixing until just combined and scraping the bowl well between additions. 5. Add the vegetable oil and coffee, mixing until just combined.  6. Spread the batter in a half sheet pan lined with a piece of parchment paper or a nonstick baking mat.  Bake the cake at 350ËšF for 10-12 minutes.  7. Once the cake has cooled, cut a 2.5â€? x 8.5â€? strip for each Yule log.  Cut the strip into two even layers and reserve. 
Speculoos Ganache • • • • • •
315 g heavy cream 75 g glucose 350 g Guittard chocolate, 38% 2 g salt 80 g unsalted butter 155 g speculoos spread
1. Combine the heavy cream and glucose in a saucepan and bring the mixture to a simmer. 2. Pour the heavy cream mixture over the chocolate and salt and let sit for 2-3 minutes.  3. Add the butter and speculoos spread  and hand-blend until well emulsified (the mixture will be smooth and shiny).  4. Let the ganache set fully, then spread a 60 g-layer of ganache on the first layer cake.  Place the second layer of cake over the first, and add a second 60 g-layer of ganache.  5. Freeze the block of the cake and ganache until ready to use.
White Chocolate Glaze • • • • • • •
9 g gelatin, 160-bloom 200 g whole milk 55 g condensed milk 82 g glucose 8 g red gel color 310 g white chocolate 310 g white pâte a glacér
1. H ydrate the gelatin in cold water for 5 minutes and reserve to use later. 2. C ombine the whole milk, condensed milk, glucose and food coloring and bring to a boil.  Pour the mixture over the white chocolate and white pâte a glacér. Add the gelatin and whisk or hand-blend the mixture until well combined.   Keep the glaze in the refrigerator until ready to use. 76
Raspberry Mousse • • • • •
12 g gelatin, 160-bloom 615 g heavy cream 770 g raspberry puree 75 g granulated sugar 43 g cornstarch
1. H ydrate the gelatin in cold water for 5 minutes and reserve to use later. 2. Whip the heavy cream in a stand mixer with a whip attachment until it forms soft peaks. Keep the whipped cream in the refrigerator until ready to use. 3. Warm the raspberry puree in a saucepot over medium-low heat. 4. Combine the sugar and cornstarch and whisk it into the puree. Heat the mixture, whisking continuously, until it thickens. Remove the thickened puree from the heat, and stir in the gelatin until dissolved.  Cool to 86ËšF. 5. Fold in the whipped cream.  6. Cast 250 g of the mousse into the small mold.  Trim the cake block to fit precisely, then place the frozen block of cake and ganache into the mousse, pressing firmly.  Clean excess mousse from the mold and freeze until solid.   7. Once fully frozen, unmold and keep in the freezer, wrapped in plastic wrap, until ready to use.
• • • • • • •
39 g gelatin,160-bloom 120 g heavy cream 487 g eggnog 270 g whole milk 19 g vanilla paste 270 g granulated sugar 455 g egg yolks
1. H ydrate the gelatin in cold water for 5 minutes and reserve to use later. 2. Whip the heavy cream in a stand mixer with a whip attachment until it forms soft peaks.  Keep the whipped cream in the refrigerator until ready to use. 3. Combine the eggnog and whole milk in a saucepot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. 4. While the eggnog mixture is warming, combine the sugar, egg yolks, and vanilla paste.   Temper the eggnog mixture into the egg yolks in several small additions, mixing well with each addition.   Bring the mixture back over the heat and cook, while whisking, to 185˚F. 5. Squeeze out the excess water from the gelatin, then add it to the mixture, mixing well until fully combined.  Cool the eggnog mixture to 86˚F, then fold in the whipped cream.   Cast 450 g of the eggnog mousse into the larger bûche mold.  Press the frozen cake insert into the eggnog mousse until it is flush with the base of the cake. Place the buche into the freezer until solid. 
White Chocolate End-Caps • White chocolate, as needed • White cocoa butter, as needed 1. Blend white chocolate in a food processor until it breaks down into small pieces and the heat from blending begins to bind the mixture.  2. Roll the mixture until it is even and about ½” thick.   Cut the chocolate endcaps and let the chocolate set.   3. Brush the end caps with white cocoa butter.  31
Chocolate Belt Buckle â€˘ Dark chocolate, as needed â€˘ Edible gold dust
1. Cut out a small square of parchment paper and sketch a belt buckle on it. Turn it over.  2. Temper a small amount of chocolate and pipe a belt buckle shape onto the piece of parchment.   Let the chocolate begin to set, then place the parchment around the outside of a bain marie, taping it in place.  3. Once set, place the belt buckle in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours, or up to overnight, allowing it to develop a thin coat of condensation. 4. Brush the belt buckle with gold dust, then allow it to dry and reserve it to use later. 
Final Assembly • Dark chocolate, as needed
1. Before glazing the Yule log, prepare a glazing rack by covering a half-sheet pan with plastic wrap and placing a mesh cooling rack over it. 2. Warm the white chocolate glaze to 85˚F. 3. Unmold the frozen Yule log and place it on the glazing rack. Glaze the Yule log in a thin, even coat of White Chocolate Glaze,  then place it into the refrigerator for 3-5 minutes to allow the glaze to further set. 4. Trim the ends of the Yule log and place on the end-caps. 5. Prepare a piece of acetate, then temper chocolate and spread a thin layer of chocolate over the acetate.  Gently place the acetate on the Yule log, chocolate facing the glaze.  Allow the chocolate to set, then carefully remove the acetate. Use tempered chocolate to glue the belt buckle to the chocolate band. 
Chef Scott Green is a Pastry Chef, Consultant and Entrepreneur. He is the owner and author of the Devil’s Food Kitchen pastry and baking blog, started in 2016 as a resource for professional and amateur pastry enthusiasts. He has been the recipient of several awards over his career, including the 2011 National Pastry Team Gold Medal, 2012 World Pastry Team Silver Medal, 2015 Coupe du Monde de’ la Patisserie Bronze Medal, and was named one of the 2016 Top Ten Pastry Chefs in North America by Dessert Professional Magazine. 82
The Original Gingerbread By Nick Malgieri
witzerland’s capital city, Bern, has played an important part in the history of sweet baking in Northern Europe. Its traditional Lebkuchen, or honey cakes, available in several forms, have ties linking them as far back as the ancient Romans. Although considerably refined since Roman times, Berner Lebkuchen continue in popularity.
Honey & Sugar in the Ancient World Honey was the major sweetener used by the ancient Greeks and Romans. Although sugar cane had been under cultivation in New Guinea since 8,000 BCE, refined sugar didn’t reach Persia until around the sixth century, and then it trickled into Europe over the next several hundred years. And while the Greeks ate primitive pancakes sweetened with honey for breakfast, it was the Romans who began the tradition of sweet baking that persists in several forms throughout Europe.
Early Sweet Baking in Europe At the height of its decadence, Rome was a culture of festivals where the number of holidays in a year had begun to outnumber working days. Many holidays were celebrated with bawdy fertility rites that included servings of mustaceum, a cake made of rye or wheat flour, curd cheese, and herbs, sweetened with honey and wrapped in large laurel-like leaves to protect it during baking; the cakes were presumably washed down with plenty of wine. Today’s southern Italian mostaccioli, spiced honey cakes made during the Christmas season, are the direct descendants of the Romans’ mustaceum. And although
several interesting varieties of mostaccioli are still popular in Italy, honey cakes came into their own further north. During the Middle Ages, the culture of Lebkuchen was born in Switzerland, Germany, and Austria.
Origin of Lebkuchen The root meaning of the name Lebkuchen has been lost, although there are many plausible explanations. While kuchen is ‘cake’ in German, the particle ‘leb’ may refer to Old German expressions for crystallized honey, sweetness, or even loaf. These spiced honey cakes first appeared in monasteries in the late Middle Ages. Spices were already being imported from the East, and the cultivation of wheat had improved to the extent of yielding fine baking flours. Monasteries already had baking areas where altar breads of unleavened wheat starch were made for use in Holy Communion, and in fact, some early Lebkuchen were actually backed with the same unleavened material to keep the cakes from sticking during baking. Although monastic recipes were closely guarded secrets, eventually information leaked to the outside and Lebkuchen were also prepared in the homes of the wealthy and in early food shops. Pastry Arts
class specialty occurs when fine royal icing decorations of graceful complexity are piped onto the cooled Lebkuchen by skilled decorators. A bear or bears, the city’s mascot, appear in many decorating designs. While the tradition of royal icing decoration is less than 100 years old, it is the unmistakable trademark of fine Berner Lebkuchen.
Berner Lebkuchen Today To see the preparation of Lebkuchen firsthand, I visited Alexander Reinhard, the fourth-generation owner of Bäckerei Reinhard, in Bolligen, a suburb of Bern. As it was early fall, Lebkuchen production for the upcoming holidays was in full swing. The dough, dark and rich in honey and spices, is sheeted out to a one quarter-inch thickness and pressed into traditional wooden molds by hand. Thickness varies according to the size and shape of the molds, which can be round, rectangular, and specialty shapes such as comets and hearts. The transformation of this somewhat primitive dough to a world-
Alexander Reinhard has definite ideas about the sustainability of his products. He says, “We are all about local ingredients and we insist that at least 80 percent of the ingredients we use are artisanally produced.” He also commented that there is a special dedication in avoiding waste: “We try to keep our waste down to about 3 percent of what’s produced so that leftovers are given to employees, charitable organizations, and a new class of Swiss food stores that sell slightly-less-thanfresh goods at discounted prices.” Managing a small chain of four retail units besides his main production area is challenging and involves a fairly intricate system of ordering and transferring still-fresh goods among the units. In the hands of practitioners like Alexander Reinhard, Berner Lebkuchen will continue far into the future. Pastry Arts
Berner Lebkuchen Adapted from Continental Confectionery by Walter Bachmann (London, 1955)
Lebkuchen Spice • • • • • • •
28 g ground cinnamon 21 g ground cloves 14 g ground nutmeg 21 g ground ginger 35 g ground fennel seeds 35 g ground coriander 35 g ground aniseed
1. Combine the spices well.
LEBKUCHEN • • • • • • • • • •
2.268 kg honey 907 g granulated sugar, divided 148 ml water 11 large egg yolks 4.309 kg flour (medium strength) 113 g Lebkuchen spice (above) 57 g baking soda 340 g unsalted butter, soft 444 ml whole milk Caramel color
1. Warm the honey, 567 g of the sugar, and water. 2. Whip the yolks and the remaining 340 g sugar to a foam. 3. Place the flour in the bowl of a stand mixer and add honey mixture, egg yolk foam, and remaining ingredients. Mix on low speed with dough hook until smooth. Age the dough for 24 hours. 4. Sheet to 1/2-inch and cut desired shapes. 5. Bake at 300˚F until risen but still soft, about 15 minutes. Cool and decorate as desired.
Join pastry greats and fellow craftsmen at the only event dedicated to the artisan baker. JEREMEY GADOUAS
LAMINATED DOUGH 101
OUT OF THE BOX CROISSANTS
Learn what’s between those flaky flavorful layers!
Redefine croissant! Challenge flavor, appearance and your imagination.
A R T I S A NB A K ERY EX P O . C O M
MARCH 5-7, 2019 • LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER
Re-imagining Desserts at a
Legendary Restaurant By Meryle Evans 90
always loved the Four Seasons,” says groundbreaking American pastry chef Bill Yosses, recalling collaborations with colleagues in the kitchens of the iconic Manhattan landmark. Now Yosses, whose ever-evolving career includes rolling out desserts at top restaurants and at the White House, lecturing at Harvard, and, most recently, preparing pies for the off-Broadway production of Sweeney Todd, is leading a staff of eight as Executive Pastry Chef at the recently reborn restaurant. Opened in 1959 in the Seagram Building, the Four Seasons breathtaking decor and its seasonal American accented menu, revolutionary in that era, ushered in a new style of fine dining that endured into the 21st century. Then, two years ago, after the current
landlord refused to renew the lease, the restaurant closed and the owners. Alex Von Bidder and Julian Niccolini, arranged to migrate three blocks south. Early in the planning stage they suggested to Yosses, “Why don’t you do the desserts?” just as he was ready for postWhite House Act II. “When I started walking through the space, there were no walls, no windows, just concrete,” he said, and everything from the old restaurant had been auctioned off – even the machine for making the de rigeur pink cotton candy. But there was a treasure trove of old menus available for inspiration: “I thought it was interesting how innovative they were with ingredients.” He continued, “They were fearless, introducing stuff that was new in the ‘60’s – cloudberries, foraged plants, greengage plums, which had a two week season.” Yosses opted to keep some of the old favorites, updated for today’s palates: “One of the signature desserts was the chocolate bar cake, similar to a Napoleon, that was made with chocolate puff pastry and buttercream. I don’t think that buttercream works these days, so we replaced it with chocolate pastry cream; it is still layered, and the heart of the dessert remains the same.” The Four Seasons Aged Rum Baba
The cake was created by Albert Kumin, a revered Swiss patissier who was lured from Canada to inaugurate the dessert menu at the Four Seasons by Joe Baum, the inventive impresario of Restaurant Associates, the company that ran the restaurant. Kumin later, like Yosses, served as White House Pastry Chef, during Jimmy Carter’s presidency. Another Kumin original at the Four Seasons was the chocolate velvet, a chocolate glazed dome containing mousse, chopped up Heath Bars, Amaretto, and rum, made in a special inverted cylindrical mold. All of the original molds were sold, so Yosses is having new ones made in a machine shop in Brooklyn, and, he notes, “We will make our own milk chocolate toffee Heath Bars.” “There was a huge repertoire, but we’re not trying to do the same things over again,” Yosses adds. “We have to honor the legacy, but this is a modern restaurant and we have been given carte blanche to do what we want.” For Yosses and his crew that means seasonal, modern American desserts, very classic, not deconstructed. “Some avant garde cooking is wonderful,” he believes, “but it doesn’t fit in here.” He recruited the highly regarded Victoria Wells, long-time Executive Pastry Chef for Bobby Flay restaurants and an instructor at ICE, to join the team. According to Yosses, “Having her as a partner is the only reason I’m able to do the other things I’m involved in. I’m also lucky to have Emily Fu, formerly Sous Pastry Chef at Atelier, and chocolatier Pedro Rosell from The Modern and Mariebelle chocolates, so we can make all of our confections in- house.” “I’m very collaborative with Vicki and the team members,” Yosses explains. “We work together. The desserts we come up with are not my desserts, these are desserts we come up with together, which could be a new paradigm for places with pastry chefs who also have other ongoing projects.” 92
There was a huge repertoire, but we’re not trying to do the same things over again.
One selection on the current menu, the Fall Fruit Crostata with Buttermilk Ice Cream, channels Yosses’s dedication to healthier desserts, cutting back on sugar and fats, a cause he has championed in his books and working with Michelle Obama on the Healthy Foods Initiative. Also popular are the aged rum baba topped with colorful roasted seasonal grapes – unusual varieties from Upstate New York – and the caramel flan resting on a bed of pain d’epice. Winter desserts are still a work in progress. On the drawing board, a hazelnut cake with gianduja sorbet, and rice pudding with persimmon, probably the Japanese Hakshen, which is “so squishy when ripe.” Never on the menu, but always offered for special occasions, or because a captain decides it
is warranted, is the iconic tower of cotton candy, made in a huge new machine in the restaurant’s basement. Yosses admits he enjoys going down to make the sugary fluff for a little relaxation away from the kitchen. And he has added his own embellishment, a sprinkling of candied violets – never fragments, only whole flowers. It’s all in the details for the multi-tasking Yosses, whether he’s selecting violets or creating healthy meals for kids in the Kitchen Garden Lab. “I’ve always been in a kitchen,” he concludes, “but it feels good to be back in a restaurant kitchen – like home.”
Photo Credits: Heidi’s Bridge, Evan Sung
The Four Seasons Caramel Flan Pastry Arts
Garcia Nevett Chocolatier de Miami Miami, Florida
Susana & Isabel Garcia Nevett, Owners Company Mission
To bring a European-style chocolaterie experience to Miami, while creating chocolates inspired by our childhoods in Venezuela, our travels around the world and the flavors of South Florida that everyone will love.
Anis y Papelon, a dark chocolate ganache infused with raw cane sugar and fennel seeds, and Orange Honey Caramel, made with honey from the Florida Keys and organic oranges.
Secret of Success
Being true to our roots and what we love, but continuing our chocolate education every chance we get.
Shopâ€™s Best Feature
Our chocolate case, filled with our original creations, and set in a custom-made counter decorated by a local Miami artist in collaboration with our mom. Pastry Arts
Coffee Bar Bellevue, Washington www.dailydote.com
Shop’s Best Feature
Ewald Notter & Sarah Doud, Owners
Our regulars. Over the past year, we have become a community, connected through coffee and chocolate. While we work hard behind the scenes to create the finest quality products and present them with care in a beautiful environment, the result should never feel precious. Quite the opposite, we aim to be an ultimately accessible, daily experience and not a special treat. The fact that we see people gathering around what we do and making Dote a part of their every day (sometimes twice!) is absolutely the shop’s best feature.
At Dote, our mission is intentionally simple: connection. Dote literally means ‘to be lavish or excessive in one’s attention, fondness or affection,’ and this is the action we wanted to make focal in our business, because it creates connection. At the end of the day, we believe we are in the people business, serving coffee and chocolate, and not the other way around.
We use the finest grade, locally roasted and sourced coffee and chocolate, and mix these ingredients on the bar in ways that surprise and delight. Our best-selling drinks are made by combining our espresso with Chef Notter’s handmade ganache and adding customer’s choice of dairy and/or nut milks. Drinks include everyday favorites like our Honey Dark Mocha and Turmeric Ginger Latte, and seasonals like Pumpkin Spice and White Winter Mint. We also serve espresso and ganache over ice cream and as Boozy Coffee Cocktails during evening hours, along with pastries, truffles and other desserts.
Secret of Success
Keep it simple. Be honest. Pastry Arts
Milk & Cream Dallas, Texas
Pastry Pastry Arts Arts
Man Ho, Owner Company Mission
Milk & Cream is dedicated to providing top quality products and excellent service for everyone to enjoy.
Milk & Cream Bun â€“ A glazed or unglazed donut stuffed with one of our sixteen handcrafted ice cream flavors, toppings, and then flash heated for the perfect combination.
Secret of Success
Believe in what you do. When things get tough, as they inevitably do, it helps to be doing something you feel is important.
Shopâ€™s Best Feature
Our very Instagrammable selfie and Dallas skyline walls. Pastry Arts
for Chefs By Matt Sartwell,
Managing Partner of Kitchen Arts & Letters, New York, NY
Several of the books I’ve highlighted straddle the professional and home markets. Christina Tosi’s All About Cake has its roots in Tosi’s own home baking adventures as a teen and the publisher has bent over backward to attract enthusiastic home bakers. But despite its almost kitschy over-the-top design this book is a fullscale demonstration of a professionally
rigorous approach to dessert creation by one of the more creative minds at work the in the US these days. Lisa Ludwinski’s Sister Pie showcases the work of another highly professional bakery, and though it tries to tempt serious home bakers, its spirit is that of a successful bake shop, and Ludwinski’s introduction makes it clear just how carefully she’s navigating issues that any business owner faces when it comes to employee participation, community relevance, and other social issues on the front burner. In Food52 Genius Dessert, Kristin Miglore is mining the ideas of great bakers ranging from Maida Heatter to Pierre Herme to find techniques that do traditional jobs better. She’s plugging you in to the innovation that other professional bakers have already achieved, and that’s why this apparently homey book has importance from professional kitchens.
Postres Mugaritz by Andoni Luis Aduriz
Montagud, 2018; $39.95
Dessert over the years from the famed Michelin 3-star, Mugaritz From the publisher of Apicius, Pastry Revolution, and Melba, with a similar vibe. This is a collection of dessert recipes that appeared on the menu between 1998 and 2016 at the famed Mugaritz in Basque country. It has recipes for over 50 creations, some with process shots. It also includes drawings from the chefâ€™s notebooks, giving a look into the creative genius of Andoni Luis Aduriz. A few of the dishes include: Sobre Una Financiera de Almendra from 2002; El Gajo de Calabaza Confitado Sobre Una Crema de Vainilla y Calabaza from 2004; and Lienzo Plegado, Crema de Leche Agria y Dulce de Caramelo from 2012. In Spanish only. Paperback. 220 glossy pages of high-resolution color photography. 108
Editors of Montagud Editores, 2018; $49.95 A pastry and bread periodical from the team behind Apicius and Pastry Revolution magazines Montagud Editores of Barcelona and the team behind Apicius magazine have just begun this new pastry and bread periodical, named for the last dish served at elBulli (which was in turn named for the dessert created by Escoffier). Fans of the longrunning Pastry Revolution will recognize this as a collection of that magazineâ€™s best pieces. But while PR is published only in Spanish, Melba is in English and French. Among the many leading chefs bakers featured in this issue are Albert AdriĂ , Eneko Atxa, Claire Damon, Yann Duytsche, Jordi Roca, Rhian Shellshear, and Toni Vera. Each dish is accompanied by a full-page presentation photo so that a wide variety of styles are on display. Color photographs throughout. Paperback. Pastry Arts
All About Cake by Christina Tosi
Clarkson Potter, 2018; $35.00 Cakes and more cakes from the genius chef who created Momofuku Milk Bar Christina Tosi is the mad genius of funky baking, turning out goods that are inspired by childhood nostalgia but executed with precision and knowhow that allow a whimsical idea to succeed when, in other hands, it might never had been more than an unfulfilled flash of inspiration. Despite some platitudes dispensed by the publisher’s copywriter about this being a book for “bakers of all levels,” this is an ambitious book that assumes you’re a comfortable baker, with a kitchen stocked with the likes of cake rings, acetate for assembling layer cakes, silicone baking mats, and a good scale. Yes, there are some quickly assembled microwave mug cakes and some (bizarre) cakes made in a slow cooker that are pretty fuss-free. But let’s be honest: if you’re interested in a Christina Tosi book about cakes, it’s because Tosi is known for going all-in when it comes to baking. You’re interested because you want rhubarbelderflower pound cake; you want corn and blueberry sheetcake. And banana-chocolatehazelnut cupcakes, key lime pie layer cake, and lemon layer cake with pickled strawberry jam and pickled strawberry frosting. You’ll get these and many, many more. And even before your oven cools off, you’ll be happy. Hardcover. Color photographs throughout. 288 pages 110
Food52 Genius Desserts by Kristin Miglore
Ten Speed Press, 2018; $35.00 Recipe-changing sweet recipes featured on the popular blog The original Food52 Genius Recipes is a delight to use, a collection of inspired recipes that offer some kind of clarification or simplification of a traditional cooking method or recipe which you can readily adapt to other things you make. So imagine the pleasures of Food52 Genius Desserts! Editor Kristin Miglore has gathered material from legendary bakers, intrepid bloggers, professional pastry cooks, and others who have followed an insight into exciting new baking territory. Some are means of treating everyday ingredients so that they deliver extra flavor power; others turn established techniques on their head, and still others do something so simple that you might not really think it qualifies as a recipe, even if it makes an astounding dessert. Here youâ€™ll find ideas from Madhur Jaffrey, Pierre HermĂŠ, Maida Heatter, Marcella Hazan, Nick Malgieri, Claudia Fleming, Stella Parks, Brooks Headley, Lindsay Shere, Jim Dodge, and so many other remarkable contributors. The vegan chocolate chip cookies will become your instant go-to, regardless of whether you are vegan yourself. And the only thing that will stop you from making them again and again is the enticing array of other choices here. Slam dunk.
All of the preceding books are available at Kitchen Arts & Letters (www.kitchenartsandletters.com).
Color photographs throughout, Hardcover. Pastry Arts
Announcing For the Love of Chocolate Foundationâ€™s 14th Annual Gala!
Rebel, from Rockabilly to Rock & Roll!
Come ready to Rock and Roll and raise some funds for culinary education. Saturday, February 23rd, 2019 Palmer House Hilton Hotel 7:00 PM-Midnight
Info & Tickets: rebel-rockabilly-rockandroll.eventbrite.com
For the Love of Chocolate Foundation
Making a difference in the lives of pastry students all across the Midwest! Support us in supporting them. Join our long list of sponsors in funding pastry education. Franco Pacini - Board Chairman
FLOC 2 - 23 - 2019
In this issue we feature: + Susan Notter: Why Practice Makes Perfect + Ron Ben-Israel: Intersecting Fashion, Art & Business + Antonio Bachou...
Published on Dec 3, 2018
In this issue we feature: + Susan Notter: Why Practice Makes Perfect + Ron Ben-Israel: Intersecting Fashion, Art & Business + Antonio Bachou...