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Pastry Arts PASTRY










Plated Desserts

Kriss Harvey

From Simple To Complex

Portrait of a Chocolatier


Rachael Teufel

Pastry Textures

Launching a Cake Business

Creaminess with Jordi Bordas


Penkina Pastry Arts
































D CH E F S , T O



4 x 5kg CHD-P64EBPU-2B-U77 By introducing our iconic Extra-Bitter Guayaquil 64%TM into our PuretéTM range, we make the commitment to provide deforestation free and carbon positive chocolates. AN INTENSE AND RESPONSIBLE CHOCOLATE FOR US AND GENERATIONS TO COME: • 100 % traceable and sustainable cocoa • Optimized farmer-to-chef process to ensure high quality cocoa flavor • Excellent workability and flavor consistency • Financial support for the Cocoa HorizonsTM Foundation • Initiator of the Thriving NatureTM program, our commitment to be deforestation free and carbon positive by 2025

Contents Features



44 94

14 Kriss Harvey

Portrait of a Chocolatier

44 Ksenia Penkina

Up Close with the ‘Glazing Queen’

62 Rachael Teufel

Transforming a Passion for Cake Decorating Into a Business

94 Pastry Textures

Creaminess with Jordi Bordas Pastry Arts


L’ÉCOLE VALRHONA BROOKLYN This year, Valrhona’s worldwide Pastry and Chocolate Schools, L’ÉCOLE VALRHONA, celebrates 30 years of sharing, passion, expertise, and innovation. For 30 years, l’École Valrhona and their Chefs have been by your side, helping to cultivate your talent, individuality, professional creativity and growth. Our team and Chefs invite you to join us at l’École Valrhona Brooklyn for unforgettable, hands-on and intimate learning experiences.



MARCH 11–13 PANNING & CHOCOLATE TREATS Chef Derek Poirier 18–20 WORLD CHAMPION N E W ICE CREAM & GELATO Chef Christophe Domange Chef Rémi Montagne 25–27 ARTISTIC CHOCOLATE SHOWPIECES Chef Stéphane Tréand



25–26 MODERN BUFFET Chef Sarah Tibbetts

21–23 BACHOUR MIAMI N E W STYLES Chef Antonio Bachour














9–11 PLATED DESSERTS N E W BY GHAYA OLIVEIRA Chef Ghaya Oliveira 16–18 UNVEILING MODERN PÂTISSERIE Chef William Werner 23–25 CHOCOLATE SHOWPIECE N E W & ENTREMET WITH 2019 PASTRY TEAM USA Chef Laurent Branlard Chef Nicolas Chevrieux Chef Victor Dagatan Chef Olivier Saintmarie Chef Jordan Snider

#ValrhonaUSA #EcoleValrhonaBK

Off-site course. Visit us.valrhona.com for details.

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO REG ISTER , visit us.valrhona.com or contact us at ecolebrooklyn@valrhona.com

Contents 10

70 Recipes


- Tout Chocolat Tart - Strawberry Churros - Coconut Paleta - Strawberry Consommé - Café con Leche Choux - Chocolate/Coconut/Pineapple - Raspberry Tart

100 Timothy Maguire

From Personal Chef to Chocolatier


10 Pastry Virtuosity

Churro Mania by Jimmy MacMillan

20 Plating

A Short(ish) Guide to Plated Desserts

26 Business Bites

Funding Insights and Advice

32 Ruby Chocolate


104 Danish Pastry

Ole and Steen Opens in Manhattan

108 Places

- Milla Chocolates - Bittersweet - Pinolo Gelato

120 Events

A Look Back at ICC’s Pastryland and Pastry Plus Conference

124 Books for Chefs

RB1 Unveiled in the USA

38 New & Notable

Latest Products, Equipment & Events

54 Edibles

Hitting a New High in the Market Pastry Arts


O B S E S S E D W I T H F L AVO R A N D FA I T H F U L TO C R A F T, W E H A N D S E L E C T T H E F I N E ST C AC AO, PASS D OW N T I M E - H O N O R E D R E C I P E S , A N D T I R E L E S S LY I N N O VAT E O U R T E C H N I Q U E S . 1 5 0 Y E A R S I S N ’ T A M A R K O F O U R L O N G E V I T Y. I T ’ S A T E S TA M E N T T O O U R P A S S I O N . G U I T TA R D.C O M / 1 5 0

Pastry mArts ag azin e Pastry Arts Magazine 151 N. Maitland Ave #947511 Maitland, FL 32751 Email: contact@pastryartsmag.com Website: pastryartsmag.com EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Shawn Wenner

Advisory Board Andreas Galliker

Andreas Galliker is the Senior Vice-President of Innovation and Product Development at Albert Uster Imports in Gaithersburg, Maryland.

Managing Editor Tish Boyle Staff Writers Meryle Evans Jenna Rimensnyder Contributors Jimmy MacMillan, Robert Wemischner, Jordi Bordas, Scott Green, AnnMarie Mattila, Matt Sartwell, Garry Larduinat, Amanda Haba, Josh Johnson, Mina Pizarro, Stefan Riemer, Adrianna Jaworska Cover Ksenia Penkina Cover Photographer Silvija Crnjak CREATIVE Graphic Designer Rusdi Saleh

Biagio Settepani

Chef Settepani is a Certified Master Baker who owns and operates two Bruno Bakery outlets in Staten Island, and has won many accolades and medals over his long pastry career.

Francois Payard

Francois Payard owned and operated Payard Patisserie until 2009, and has won many awards such as ‘Pastry Chef of the Year’ by the James Beard Foundation, Medal of Honor by the French government, and selection as a member of Relais Desserts International.

BUSINESS President Shawn Wenner Publisher Jeff Dryfoos ADVERTISING

Jacquy Pfeiffer

Chef Jacquy Pfeiffer is the co-founder of the prestigious French Pastry School in Chicago. He has won numerous awards and honors, including the National Order of the Legion of Honor in France, and a James Beard Award for his cookbook, The Art of French Pastry. He was also the subject of the Kings of Pastry documentary film.

For advertising availability & rates, contact Jeff Dryfoos at SALES@PASTRYARTSMAG.COM The opinions of columnists and contributors are their own. Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement by Pastry Arts Magazine and/or Rennew Media, LLC. Sources are considered reliable and information is verified as much as possible, however, inaccuracies may occur and readers should use the information at their own risk. Links embedded within the publication may be affiliate links, which means Pastry Arts Magazine will earn a commission at no additional cost to our readers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the expressed consent of Rennew Media, LLC. For advertising information, letters to the editor, or submission inquiries, please email: contact@pastryartsmag.com. Pastry Arts Magazine Published by Rennew Media, LLC © Copyright 2019, Rennew Media, LLC All Rights Reserved

Norman Love

Norman Love is an internationally acclaimed pastry chef and chocolatier, and the founder/owner of Norman Love Confections. Norman Love owns and operates four chocolate salons in Southwest Florida and ships signature chocolates and specialty products around the country.

Susan Notter

Chef Notter’s international work experience led to being an instructor and co-owner of The International School of Confectionery Arts for many years. She has resided in the USA since 1992, and is currently the USA Sales Professional for Max Felchlin AG, Switzerland.

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Editor’s Note

Editor’s Note


ave you ever embarked on a journey with no clear path or destination? One where each step was taken on absolute faith? If so, you know exactly what it’s been like for us launching Pastry Arts Magazine. From a business perspective, almost any idea can appear great on paper, i.e., a business However, a plan is simply hypothesis, or a good oleNew fashion t the plan. start of every year, roughly 40%aof people officially make guess, at best. Although we had – and continue to have – a dream of making Year’s resolutions, while the rest typically have some particular goal this the number resource for professionals, success is never However, in one mind. Incredibly, only about 8% achieve their guaranteed. resolutions and a with the release of this issue, elated that it completes first official year of staggering 92% fail.I’m Everything from starting aour business, getting publishing! Let the bells ring and the banners fly, as my mentor used to say. in better shape, managing stress better, there’s a myriad of lifestyle changes people desire. Having over 15,000 subscriptions claimed, 100,000+ views of our website, 45,000+ social media fans, 1,500+goal Facebook thousands listening For you, I’m guessing a primary is one group of twomembers, things; launch a business to the new Pastry Podcast andrunning. dozens Why of brand partners venture or grow oneArts you’re currently else would yousupporting be reading our mission, we areChef, humbled how theifindustry embraced us. this year as Entrepreneurial right?by That said, you trulyhas want to dominate a food encourage you to focus explicitly on will yourbethoughts, Now,entrepreneur, as we look toI’d the future, education and time savings the focus of feelings and behaviors. Because as they say, your thoughts create your on reality. our next phase. We increasingly receive requests for recommendations courses, In this issue, we connected with Chris Cosentino as our books cover story and workshops or masterclasses, in addition to which equipment, or ingredients he proved that someone whoa gets in tune approach with theirwith thoughts, feelingsMeaning, and to use. As such, we’re taking “cataloging” our website. behaviors can make massive changes bothbooks, in theiringredients, life and career. And we will take categories likepositive courses, schools, equipment, Cosentino gives an extremely raw account of his journey that will no doubt techniques, etc., and begin cataloging this information on the website. Imagine leave you charge someone finding and the inspired. most useful information and resources and putting them in one place for you? Well, stay tuned. Additionally, inside thisthat’s issue,our we goal, tacklesoupcoming trends, branding, financial management, employee relations, and connect with various entrepreneurs Finally, we hope the following interviews with Ksenia food Penkina, Kriss Harvey, who shed light on what made them successful. Rachael Teufel, and the many recipes, trends pieces, and a fascinating article on As always, we hope youCup enjoy the latest issueBordas, and pick ideas, for texture by World Pastry Champion Jordi areupofsome greatfresh enjoyment inspiration, and actionable advice. you in our latest issue.


Cheers, Sincerely,

Shawn Wenner Editor-in-Chief

entrepreneurial chef


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Pastry Virtuosity

Pastry Virtuosity

Churro Mania By Jimmy MacMillan


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n our last column, we looked at the cake shake trend and discussed elevating Instagram and YouTube dessert trends toward ‘legitimate’ pastry. This time around, we’re looking at tricked-out churros, the traditional fried treats that are commonplace at fairgrounds.

Since churros originate from Spain and Portugal, they can be found all throughout Mexico, Central and South America. In the United States, they are more common in the Southwest, but, if you’re looking, you can find them almost anywhere. Basically, churros are a pâte à choux variation. The masa or paste is made by boiling milk, butter, sugar, salt, and vanilla, and then adding flour to thicken. The masa is then cooked a bit to dry it out, and then placed in a mixing bowl with a paddle. The base cooks while mixing, and after there is no visible steam, the eggs are added slowly to finish the churro paste. Churros can be hand-piped or extruded with a machine and placed directly in a fryer. We pipe ours with a star tip on the end of a plastic piping bag. We want perfectly shaped churros, so we measure each one and cut them with scissors dipped in hot oil. They are then fried in a shallow fryer (a pot of oil will do). The churros are then tossed in cinnamon sugar and served immediately with chocolate, caramel and vanilla sauces.

The construct of our tricked-out churros is consistent; each one is composed of a flavored or colored churro base, a piped sauce (which is generally cream or fruit based), and toppings that offer texture and color. We offer churros topped with buttercream and cereal or cookies, but our seasonal varieties bring together dessert elements to portray a theme. These churros and more can be viewed on IG by visiting @bodegaimports. As we head into warmer months, we suggest churros with fruity summer flavors. Our Patriotic Churro is made with a blueberry masa topped with vanilla buttercream, berry jam, chocolate curls and fresh blueberries. For fun, we arranged them as an American flag! Our Strawberry Shortcake Churro is a strawberry flavored churro topped with vanilla bean icing, dehydrated strawberries and sugar cookie crumbs. Another light and delicious option is the Lemonade Churro, topped with candied lemon, yellow confetti sprinkles and gold stardust glitter.

Heart Shaped Churro with berry cream cheese icing and chocolate hearts

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Strawberry Shortcake Churros with dehydrated strawberries, sugar cookie and vanilla icing

Festive Fall Churros featuring pumpkin churros, cranberry drizzle and golden churro Chex mix 12

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Fourth of July Patriotic Churros

Using the piped method, we can create shapes with our churros, like the HeartShaped Churro. Our Red Velvet Churro is topped with strawberry cream cheese icing, pink hearts, and red glitter. Towards the end of summer, we work with spices and some festive flavors. Last year we celebrated the close of summer and welcomed fall flavors with our Apple Cinnamon Churro. We roll an apple spice churro in cinnamon sugar and top it with spiced Granny Smith apple filling, dulce de leche caramel, and cream cheese icing. Another festive fall churro is our Pumpkin Churro, topped with cranberry jam drizzle, crumbled golden churro Chex mix, and candied pepitas. We hope you enjoyed these churro variations and are inspired to create some of your own creative churro combinations!

Jimmy MacMillan is a celebrated pastry chef, food writer and award-winning videographer. As the Corporate Pastry Chef for DineAmic Group in Chicago, Chef MacMillan creates viral desserts for six restaurant venues. Currently, Jimmy is developing a new video series under the name JMVirtuosity. For more information, visit www.JMPurePastry.com. Lemon Churro iced with candied lemon and white chocolate icing

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Portrait of a Chocolatier

Kriss Harvey By Robert Wemischner


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nown for his behind-the-scenes chocolatecrafting videos on Instagram, star pastry chef Kriss Harvey is now focusing on chocolate full-time in his dual role as chocolatier and partner at andSons Chocolatiers in Beverly Hills.

Kriss Harvey believes in sticking to the Old World technical rigor in his newest venture, andSons Chocolatiers in Beverly Hills, CA. He comes by his devotion to the French way of chocolate making having learned the craft from three MOF pastry chefs. Moving from his role helming the pastry kitchen at the SLS hotel (also in Beverly Hills), Harvey now gets to flex his chocolate-making muscles full time. With a state-of-the-art facility in downtown LA, he produces both a Classic and a Modern line of bonbons. Hand-cut and molded, his products boast Valrhona as his exclusive base. Partnering with Marc and Phil Covitz, whose family was a long-time presence in the chocolate shop

world of Beverly Hills, Harvey, “their brother from another mother,” combines a reverence for European chocolate making with an LA sensibility (think farmers’ market herbs and fruits as flavoring elements in his pieces). When asked about his philosophy of chocolate making, he quips: “You don’t have to be different or innovative; you just have to be good. I’m a work in progress.” He says further: “I’m modern with a deep respect for tradition, and I’m not leaving.” Gentle and wry, but serious about his craft, Harvey is staking a claim in a city that has surprisingly few local artisanal producers.

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His Classic line includes all of the tried-andtrue tropes: ganache, gianduja and praline, each enrobed in milk or dark chocolate from a carefully curated palette. Included among these is a pecan praline paired with coffee in a nod to an American sensibility with a twist. Fresh basil and lime figure in a white chocolate ganache layered with a milk chocolate ganache and coated with dark chocolate. On the Modern side, inside a sky blue sphere, there’s a white chocolate, coconut and Caribbean rum combo. Another hit is Strawberry Blonde, a wittily named assemblage that features a strawberry pâte de fruit and Dulcey filling and a milk chocolate enrobing, with the tart fruitiness of the strawberry mellowed by the chocolate. Drawing upon the seemingly unlimited resources of California’s specialty produce growers, Harvey fashions a yellow and chartreuse tinted white chocolate demisphere filled with dark milk chocolate brightened with yuzu and lime.


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This is set off further by a white chocolate ganache flavored with fresh lemon verbena, a balanced taste experience with the sweet shell contrasted by the tart fillings. He elaborates: “The white chocolate is a good delivery vehicle for the tart flavors contained within the bonbon.” Initially resistant (and resolutely with a European slant), Harvey does use color for his molded shells and reflects, “You don’t catch a fish by using a monochromatic lure.” With restraint and style, he feels that the use of color opens up the eyes of the customers and makes them receptive to try new things. “I don’t want to make it difficult for customers to like what we do by using discordant combinations or outlandish colors. They’re already sold on how good chocolate tastes. And unlike in Europe, which in a way hems them in, here in America we are unencumbered and can do what we want to do, as long as it tastes good.”

Underpinning his devotion to the chocolate maker’s art is a humble sense about where the chocolate comes from. “When producing the luxury product that we do, we first need to respect and honor the human energy and hard work that has gone into it, including the careful and backbreaking tending of the cacao trees, the timely picking and cleaning of the beans, even before they have been fermented and then roasted. I never forget that when I make what we make.” Speaking further about how the chocolate is transformed into a beautiful product line, Harvey says, “As an employer with a young staff, in order to motivate and teach, I need to be present in the lives of my employees and adapt


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to their way of thinking. I need to set an example for them by being here at their side, teaching and motivating. I am here to help them reach their goals and not let their egos get in the way of admitting a mistake. I always say: ‘Learn from the mistakes rather than blaming them on the equipment or the prime materials.’” He further advises: “If you’re stuck in a rut, try something you never did before. Out of that can come new solutions.” From his time heading the pastry kitchen at the SLS Hotel (Beverly Hills), where his role was overseeing the entire sweet side of the kitchen, including the chocolate production, he recalls, “I constantly instilled in my staff: ‘Be better than the best cooks that surround you. That’s called moving forward.’” When asked where inspiration comes from, he turns to the broader world of art, architecture and music. He sites Eva Zeisel, the great Hungarian-born ceramist and designer who achieved centenarian status, and worked up until her death, “beating the odds and being the rare example of one who was so singularly devoted to a craft,” as an inspiration.

Using Zeisel’s life’s work as an example, he has gained perspective on what being creative truly means. Architects such as Mies van der Rohe, Richard Neutra and Oscar Niemeyer also speak to him in subtle ways. He’s alive to the pop sensibility of Andy Warhol and David Bowie, too. These influences and so many more find their way into his ephemeral art. “It takes a lifetime of work to make a life,” he muses. In this age of instant response through social media, Harvey is constantly amazed and humbled by reactions from pastry chefs and chocolate lovers alike who write words of thanks for his detailed explanations of technique and recipes that he shares via his Instagram feed. Generous and modest all the way. Within the modern, gleaming white facility in downtown LA, Harvey has acknowledged the mastery of another chocolatier in his own special way. As an homage to Patrick Roger, there is a sixinch-wide vertical stripe of robin’s egg blue painted on a wall in his kitchen, emblematic of the French chocolatier’s signature color. That’s fandom at its most tonguein-the-cheek.

Photo Credits: Tana Gandhi, Ed Rudolph, Hollis Rafkin-Sax

Robert Wemischner is a longtime professional baking instructor at Los Angeles Trade Technical College and the author of four books, including The Dessert Architect.

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A Short(ish) Guide to Plated Desserts By Scott Green


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any pastry chefs hold the plated dessert as the highest form of the craft. While I can’t say whether or not I agree with that sentiment, it would be hard to deny the appeal of creating them. They’re an incredible opportunity to be creative and showcase your skills, and can be comically simple to strikingly complex and everything in between. The volume of possibilities when creating a plated dessert lends itself, unfortunately, to lots and lots of potential paths to disaster. To try and help anyone with interest in the topic, I’ve put together a few thoughts I have on the subject.

In terms of a straightforward definition, Chef Francisco Migoya (a name you should absolutely know – the dude is pretty brilliant) put it well in his book, Elements of Dessert, defining a plated dessert as having some type of à la minute component. Whether hot or cold or crunchy or foamy or whatever, for many chefs a plated dessert incorporates an element that has to be created just before the dessert is served, and has a very limited lifespan in its ideal state. I think it’s important to have a solid definition of a plated dessert in mind when setting out to create one, but I would caution against using the definition as a hard and fast rule. Rules sometimes have to be broken for innovation to occur. In truth, a plated dessert can be anything you want within reasonable expectation of your guest (don’t send out a spare rib for a dessert course and expect to be considered the Picasso of pastry). I tend to think of desserts in a slightly different manner. I have a degree in graphic design, and one thing that has always stuck with me through my training in that field is to tackle every

creative project from the angle of function. Whatever you might be making, what is that creation’s function? What is it meant to do? Be comfortable to wear? Attract attention to a new product you want to sell? Simply be beautiful for the sake of beauty? Every object has a function. I dare you to think of one that doesn’t. So from the mind of a designer, the first and last thing I focus on when it comes to a plated dessert is its main function, which I see simply as: something to offer at the end of a meal to complete it. Let me say that one more time: above all other things a dessert is an offering at the end of a meal to complete it. I emphasize this point because nearly every bad dessert I’ve ever served or been served has forgotten to hold true to this foundation. Sometimes (actually a lot of times) as pastry chefs we get lost in the presentation of the dessert by focusing on some flashy technique, or just generally showing off. Exciting presentation and techniques can be components to great plated desserts, but only when they fall in line with the function. Pastry Arts


So when you create your own plated dessert, think of the occasion, the setting, the time of year. What’s being served for dinner? What are your guests’ expectations? The answers should drive your plate. A heavy meal might mean a lighter dessert that refreshes your guests instead of weighing them down further. A formal occasion means a little more finesse in presentation. Don’t serve strawberries in January (Seriously. Stop.). You get the idea.

Creating a dessert: choosing flavors With all of the function of the dessert firmly in mind, it’s time for the creative process to begin. A lot of that process depends on who you are as a cook. If you’re just starting a journey in creating plated desserts, as a professional or amateur, you won’t have a clear idea of your style or preferences, but that’s ok. It means you can start in any direction at all and learn from it. You’ll make something you either like or don’t like, and both outcomes will help define your cooking style. #winning. My own personal inspiration comes from anywhere and everywhere. I get asked the question a lot – “what inspires you?” – so I’ve formulated a decent answer. I’m most often inspired by one of three starting points: 1. an ingredient/flavor; 2. a technique; or 3. a presentation style. I’ll have an idea I’d like to work with in one of those three categories, and the other two categories fall in line with the original seed. Because I think it’s a direction a lot of people start in, let’s talk about working from an ingredient/flavor. Again, I’m going to come at this from a function angle.


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A dessert should taste good (duh, but we still need to go through the motion), and a little less obviously needs to be easy to “read” for the diner. With just a few exceptions, your guest shouldn’t have to guess what they’re eating or guess what flavor is the star of the show. I cringe typing that analogy, because it’s been used to a pulp, but there we go. What’s the star of your dessert? That’s a good place to start. From that point on, every other flavor has its own new function: support the star of the dessert. It can do that by contrasting the star flavor or highlighting it or both, but it needs to support that star flavor and not fight it. A very common mistake by young cooks when trying to conceptualize a dessert is going too big, too fast. Too many strong flavors that will just get in each others’ way and make the water muddy. It takes a lot of skill and finesse to balance many bold choices on one plate. It makes me think of a music teacher I had when I was a kid. I played the drums, and my teacher told me to start by just playing the snare drum on my kit. That’s it. Play that snare until I was bored to death of it. Then add the base drum, or a cymbal. But just one. All of a sudden your creative world has doubled in size. Get bored. Add. Repeat. Working with flavors is the same way.

Strawberry Cheesecake: cheesecake mousse, guava sorbet, strawberry jus, macerated strawberries, graham streusel, micro cilantro

Start with one flavor. Explore that flavor and all its possibilities and forms. Then add a second flavor. Practice in that manner and you’ll work into more complex flavor combinations with ease. Personally, I tend to keep to more traditional flavor combinations. I’m not a chef that steps into brave new territory with flavors, and I’m ok with that. I lean toward simple flavors and like to sneak that flavor in little places when I can find it. If I’m using grapefruit as my main flavor component, then maybe I’ll see where I can use grapefruit juice in place of water in my recipes for that dessert. When the flavor is simple, the other facets of the dessert need to be more intriguing in order to win over your diner. In that sense I try to highlight my flavors in many different interpretations on one plate. A lot of that interpretation comes from texture.

The power of texture and temp Obviously the composition of flavors in your dessert is of serious importance, but texture is what I obsess over. There’s some science to back that obsession up. I won’t get into details here, but there is serious anthropological study around our deeply developed interpretation and response to various textures. A texture can attract or repulse someone as strongly, if not more so, than a flavor. I don’t care what my dessert tastes like, if there isn’t textural balance and contrast, I’m not done with the process. I. love. crunch. All about that crunch. A crunchy element does so much to create contrast to sweet and fatty elements (which are pretty prevalent in a dessert) and create interest.





PGI of Saugatuck, Inc



1-800-4gelato (443-5286)


413 3rd Street



Fennville, MI 49408-8671

If at all possible, I make sure to incorporate an element in my dessert that provides crispiness or crunch. Aside from being pleasant in its own right, that crunch allows me to add other elements that are much sweeter or richer than I could get away with without it. Knowing your audience is especially important when it comes to texture. The most notable differences in preference are Eastern and Western diners. Eastern (as in Asian and Pan-Asian countries) are much more comfortable with jelly and gel texture than most Westerners. Obviously there are exceptions to every rule, but it’s worth keeping in mind. Temperature is the other big player in creating exciting contrast in your dessert. But more than just experiencing the obvious temperatures of the components, the flavors of those components will be affected as well. Very cold components will diminish sweetness and flavor while warm or hot temperature will increase it. A warm component will taste saltier than a cold component. Room temperature will accentuate delicate flavors. Experiment with your components and see how the flavor changes when you heat or cool them.

Some personal no-no’s Earlier I said that to innovate, sometimes rules have to be broken. Still true. And really all of this is just my own philosophy anyway, nothing that has been agreed upon by a universal council of pastry elders. (I don’t get invited to those meetings.) But there are some pretty solid things I don’t do when it comes to plated desserts: 1. Do not incorporate chocolate or chocolate decoration when it doesn’t belong in the profile of the plated dessert. It’s tempting. Chocolate can look pretty sexy. It works with so many other flavors. Just about everyone loves it. And yet – sorry not sorry – it has no business being a part of so many plated desserts I encounter. If a chocolate component isn’t a very intentional element 24

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to the overall flavor profile of the dessert you’re creating, leave that curl or shard or stick of chocolate off the plate. If not for the sake of how the dessert will eat, then for the sake of dragging plating styles firmly out of the late 90’s. The decade called and wants its chocolate cigarettes back. 2. Do not incorporate micro herbs, greens or flowers when it doesn’t belong in the profile of the plated dessert. This particular plated dessert sin is so prevalent these days that I should really make this number 1. There are a few popular chefs that are partly to blame, along with the photogenic qualities of beautiful little plants and our desire to share everything we touch with social media. Any time one of my cooks asks or tries to put a micro something on a dessert, I ask them to try and >gasp< eat it first and see if it would work as a flavor. Almost always the answer is no. You’d be surprised how infrequently even very talented chefs fail to taste the little bits of nature they put on their plates. 3. Do not incorporate anything at all as a decoration or element in the dessert that isn’t intended to be eaten. Cinnamon sticks. Wedges of lemons. The leaves attached to strawberries. Scraped vanilla beans. If someone has to physically remove or eat around a component to get to the dessert, that component shouldn’t be there. The exception to this is an element of the serviceware, like a dome that must be lifted. Even then, be careful not to turn your work into a gimmick. What should be clear from my ‘don’t do’ list is that it all goes back to honoring the function of the dessert. Serve your guests a dish at the end of their meal so as to complete it, in harmony with the experience they’ve already had up to that moment. Stay true to that and you can’t lose. See one of Scott Green’s plated dessert recipes on page 78.

Business Bites

Dessert Entrepreneurs

How They Secured Capital + Best Funding Advice In this edition of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Business Bites,â&#x20AC;? we connect with four dessert entrepreneurs to discover how they funded their business and got their advice on securing capital for those attempting to fund their ideas.


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Best Funding Advice I am a fan of debt – if you can get good terms, and you like your banker. I happen to love my bank – it is a local Washington State bank, and we have a very close relationship. Investors are great too, but I would keep your group small, and to only those you know closely and trust, and who are accredited and understand what it is to be an investor of a company. I have two investors who put in very small amounts of money, who require a lot of managing – which is the last thing you want to do when trying to run a small business. So, get people on your team that know how investments in food businesses work. My last piece of advice is to spend a lot of time and energy on your business plan and projections. These should act as your road map and help track how you are doing. The better you can predict and understand the ebbs and flows of your business, the more successful you will be.

Autumn Martin

Founder, Hot Cakes Molten Chocolate Cakery Seattle, Washington Funding the Business I funded my first company, Hot Cakes, using three different methods – debt, angel investors, and crowdfunding via Kickstarter. Because Hot Cakes was a new concept, and I had zero assets and no cash on hand, I had to get a guarantor for the loan. My landlord of the space I was going into offered to be my guarantor for equity trade. The angel investors were very hard to come by; it took about a year to find enough investors to get the money I needed. I did this by presenting to investor groups, and by getting my business plan in front of as many people as possible. The crowdfunding happened during the build-out of the restaurant when I realized I needed about $30,000 more than I had originally estimated. Pastry Arts


Best Funding Advice Don’t compare yourself to anyone else. It’s tempting to see other companies successfully raising millions to fund their projects and think that’s the only route to success. But you have no idea how much equity they’ve given up or debt they’ve gone into to make that happen. Growing slowly gives you more control over your company and lets you work out kinks in your business model. Always make sure what you’re doing is profitable or can become profitable relatively quickly – know all your ingredient and labor costs and run your numbers all the time to make sure they’re on target.

Jenna Hunstberger Owner, Whisked! Washington, DC

Funding the Business I’m cautious, so I used $3000 of personal savings to test products at a farmers’ market. I had a part-time job that paid bills, so the farmers’ market became the source of our funding. I used funds from our market to purchase a delivery vehicle and to expand into a larger rented kitchen space, which allowed us to start wholesaling. Eventually, our revenue grew high enough so I could quit my part-time job and work at Whisked! full-time. Over the years, I’ve been able to move into larger built-out kitchen spaces using our revenue. I also funded our expansion and built our credit by applying for, and getting, SBAbacked equipment loans. We’re currently in the process of building our own kitchen space, and we were able to get a much larger SBA loan for the project because we have solid revenue, profits and successful lending history. 28

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Check out SCORE – an SBA program where retired executives mentor small businesses for free. SCORE mentors will go through your profit and loss statement with you line by line until you understand every number. And if you grow sustainably and have a successful business, you can get SBA funding, even if you don’t have big assets, like a house. Going slowly and profitably will set you up for long-term success.

Solomon Choi

Founder & CEO, 16 Handles United States Funding the Business I received the seed investment from family in 2008 to open up my first 16 Handles location in the East Village in New York City. The amount was $600,000, which went towards the lease, build out, furniture and fixtures, professional fees and working capital. The company organically grew and used its profits to become a franchise organization.

Best Funding Advice Finding a brick-and-mortar business like a bakery or dessert shop should not be underestimated. Oftentimes, I see entrepreneurs miscalculate how much they need because of a low estimate on working capital. In markets like New York City, where the rent and labor are extremely high compared to the rest of the country, I recommend having working capital for at least six months to a year to cover expenses. It will allow the operator to focus on operations as well as local store marketing to get the brand out. Pastry Arts


Best Funding Advice Have a healthy combination of debt and equity for funding purposes. Finding the right equity partners can bring a lot of value to the business â&#x20AC;&#x201C; people from different walks of life that have experience and professional expertise in areas of growth. On the other hand, it is smart to use debt when it is available, because you do not have to give up control or stake in the company. In addition, make sure to create a funding strategy. Understand the risks involved in different business models and plan ahead to ensure proper funding.

Gal Danay

Co-Founder & CFO, Woops! United States Funding the Business We funded our business primarily with founder equity, but during certain growth phases, we took on bridge loan debt. Currently, we have long-term SBA financing. In the future, we will look to add smart equity, if needed. We also decided to focus primarily on franchising. The franchising business model allows for quick growth, as individual people are investing money to open locations, as opposed to the company investing its own capital. 30

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inspired chocolate for the bold chef Crafted in Berkeley, California to receive samples email sales@tcho.com

Ventures, Inc. 3100 San Pablo Ave., Suite 170 Berkeley, CA 94702 USA TCHO.com â&#x20AC;˘ (844) 877-8246 â&#x20AC;˘



Callebautâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ruby RB1 Unveiled in the USA By Meryle Evans


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merican pastry and chocolate artisans are finally enjoying access to the intriguing, highly-anticipated Callebaut ruby RB1. Described by the company as “the most uncommon chocolate discovery in 80 years” after dark, milk and white, the new product, noted for its “exceptional red-pink color and fruity taste,” is still awaiting FDA approval before it can officially be called chocolate in the U.S. Meanwhile, it has generated enthusiastic response from a coterie of confectioners who have been working with samples of ruby RB1 provided over the last six months by Callebaut, part of Barry Callebaut, a leading manufacturer of high-quality chocolate and cacao.

According to Callebaut, many years of research and development by their cacao experts, in collaboration with Jacobs University in Bremen, Germany, led to identifying a specific type of bean, the ruby cacao bean, and then finding the best way to process the bean for use by chefs and chocolatiers. Ruby thrives in various cacao growing countries like Brazil, Ecuador, and the Ivory Coast, so neither genus or origin determine its qualification as a cacao bean to be ruby – rather it is the natural occurrence of certain precursors that provide the color and taste, without the addition of any colorings or fruit flavorings. Ruby was initially launched in China in the fall of 2017. KitKat was the first brand to debut a ruby bar in Asia, followed by other applications in 2018 throughout Asia and Europe. In May of that year, Callebaut was honored by the National Confectioners Association for “one

of the biggest breakthrough inventions in the chocolate category in more than 150 years,” but the only access in this country until recently was by mail-order from abroad.

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Vosges Haut-Chocolat in Chicago, and Eclat Chocolate in West Chester, Pennsylvania, were among the first to offer rosy-hued confections with ruby RB1, a version developed for use by craft chocolatiers and chefs. Vosges founder Katrina Markoff recalled, “We have a truly wonderful partnership with Callebaut, and we were beyond inspired, honored, and excited” to have early access to ruby. Markoff’s four-truffle box featured both Ruby Cerise with cherry gelée and vanilla bean ganache, crowned with freeze-dried cherry and pink peppercorn to add a contrasting bite to the sweetness, and Sour Mango Ruby, house-made soft caramel infused 34

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with fresh passion fruit and mango purees. “It’s a bit different than other chocolates,” Markoff continued, “but I always push to get the nuances of the notes.” Christopher Curtin at Eclat encountered ruby early on, while working with chocolate on a visit in Belgium. “I like the fact that Callebaut is pushing the envelope and coming up with new products,” he observed. “What’s interesting is that the color is really neat, and adds a visual dimension; it’s another palate to use, and in a rapidly changing chocolate world, you can have many different applications.”

Mold Maker to World Champion Pastry Chefs

Curtin was one of four top artisans working with Callebaut to introduce ruby to New York sweets aficionados at the recent ICC Pastryland Bake Sale, a partnership of Callebaut and the International Culinary Center. Curtin decided to showcase ruby on its own in both shell and ganache, while Fany Gerson of La Newyorkina combined ruby and hibiscus as a filling for the popular Mexican butter shortbread Scribble cookie. “I’m super-excited about it – the filling is like a truffle,” says Gerson, whose shop in Greenwich Village is a mecca for south-of-theborder treats: “The flavor is assertive but subtle at the same time, a little bit like white chocolate, but in a good way; it’s a chocolate you really want to celebrate.”


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Monica Ng, Executive Pastry Chef at Great Performances, celebrated ruby at the Pastryland Bake Sale with Ruby Velvet Choux, a cream puff filled with raspberry lychee compote and ruby whipped ganache. “The really exiting fact about ruby is that the color and flavor are naturally present in the cacao bean; the acidity at the end and the faint berry aroma makes me think of fruit-forward pairing ideas. I try to enhance the natural characteristic of the chocolate. My approach is to enhance its subtle flavors without overwhelming them, which can be tricky. Additionally, when it comes to tempering, it is closer to a milk chocolate than a white.” For Dimitriy Shurygin, owner of The Key Patisserie in Brooklyn, tempering falls between white and milk. Shurygin, who contributed ruby snack bars to the bake sale, commented, “When you come around a brand new product, of course there is a lot of testing involved.” His recommendation for tempering: “Heat it up to 45 degrees C, drop temperature to 27 degrees C, and heat it back up to between 28.5 and 29.5 degrees C.” Shurygin first discovered ruby in Australia when he prepped next to a chef using it in the Savour Patissier of the Year competition, and had been waiting for a moment when he could play around with it. The result was a flavor combination of ruby, raspberry, and pistachio – not too sweet, and at the same time rich with smooth, fruity notes of ruby. Like the other artisans who have discovered ruby, Shurygin is “super-excited,” and says “We have a lot of ideas how to apply it to our pastry and chocolate production.”

New & Notable

FCIA’s Elevate Chocolate The Fine Chocolate Industry Association’s summer event Elevate Chocolate will take place on Saturday, June 22 at the InterContinental Hotel Times Square in New York City. The theme of this year’s event is the ‘Foundation for the Future in Fine Chocolate’. Sessions and features of the day will include: Three tracks of workshops in topics from value chain to quality to marketing and operations Interactive huddles for chocolatiers, chocolate makers and pastry chefs Panel discussions by industry experts

Simple Cake Australian by birth and Brooklyn resident by choice, Odette Williams is the founder of OW Brooklyn, a line of products that includes hand silk-screened aprons, cookie cutters and flour scoops. Williams loves to spend any free time she has baking with her kids and dreaming up new cake and cookie recipes. This pastime has inspired her first book, Simple Cake (Ten Speed Press, 2019; $23), a collection of unfussy classics with a twist. The book is an ode to the joy of homemade cakes and the simple pleasure of spending time with loved ones. Williams offers ten base cake recipes, fifteen toppings, and endless decorating ideas that can be combined in multiple ways. While the cakes are always simple to make, the flavor combinations are compelling. Examples of recipes include Lavender Milk and Honey Cake; Citrus Olive Oil Cake; Raspberry Coconut Cake; and Boozy Almond Gató. The book has beautiful color photos throughout, and is available at bookstores nationwide or via amazon.com. 38

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Presentation by the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund Gallery Showcase and Partnership Exhibits Not-So-Silent Auction Plenty of peer-to-peer networking Chocolate Sampling Table For more info on Elevate Chocolate or to register, visit www.finechocolateindustry.org.

Guittard Guest Chef Series of Classes Under the direction of Guittard Pastry Chef Donald Wressell, the Guittard Chocolate Studio hosts the Guest Chef Series, featuring hands-on workshops with prominent chefs, chocolatiers and bakers for a unique opportunity to learn new skills, finesse techniques and expand your chocolate knowledge. According to Chef Wressell, “The purpose of the Guittard Chocolate studio, and our ongoing series of workshops, is to create an opportunity to continue to refine and elevate the craft of pastry, baking and confection. We’ve built an environment that is welcoming and relaxed while providing a high-level education with for today’s leaders in the industry--the series is truly for chefs, by chefs.” Following are offerings for the 2019 Guest Chef Series of Hands-On Classes for the Professional:

Advanced Techniques in Laminated Dough with Chef Peter Yuen, August 19-20  Whole Grain Hearth Breads with Chef Craig Ponsford, September 23-24  Artistic Holiday Showpieces and Amenities with Chef Scott Green, September 29 to October 1  Modern Café Pastry with Chef John Kraus, November 11-12

 Molded Bonbons with Chef Ewald Notter, June 17-18 Pastry Arts


The Spherificator The Spherificator kit by Cedarlane is a nifty new device that allows you to turn virtually any liquid into caviar-shaped pearls. It’s the world’s first automatic pearl former – a hand-held device that will produce up to 500 pearls per minute with perfect consistency. The kit contains the Spherificator; 70 grams sodium alginate; 100 grams calcium chloride; 100 grams sodium citrate; two stainless steel nozzles; one replacement hose; and a user guide that contains a good collection of recipes. Available from www.bakedeco.com.

The Spinner If you’re producing lots of decorated cakes and pastries, the Spinner electric cake turntable by Martellato might be just the thing for your shop. The Spinner allows you to adjust the speed and direction of rotation and allows you to have both hands free to devote to detailed decoration. Directional LED lights intensify as speed increases. The machine is compact, practical and lightweight and is easily transportable. The turntable surface is made of a Plexiglass plane that is 24 centimeters (9.45 inches) in diameter, with a graduated scale marked in centimeters and inches. The Spinner is available from www.bakedeco.com. 40

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ie r

n on eM n i l de ©A

finest origins

finest varieties

finest fruit purées

Flexipan Inspiration ®

3D Sphere

As part of the Flexipan® Inspiration range, the 3D Sphere is a great new addition. Flexipan® molds have an optimum non-stick coating that helps to unmold your creations very easily. Comprised of 100% silicone and having baking (+ 240°C) and freezing (-40°C) applications, the new 3D Sphere will inspire stylish and trendy creations as it’s ideal for artisanal and semi-industrial production. Discover the full line of Flexipan® Inspiration products at www.groupsasademarle.com. Pastry Arts


is the exclusive U.S. distributor for Ponthier. For more information on these products and more, visit auifinefoods.com/ponthier

Wild Sweets! Canadian chocolatiers Dominique and Cindy Duby, owners of Wild Sweets® By Dominique and Cindy Duby, have announced an exciting new chocolate art installation at the Richmond Art Gallery City Hall Galleria in Richmond, BC. Entitled Wild Sweets® CoCoArt…from Cocoa bean to Chocolate to Art!, the installation will be live at the City Hall Galleria until June 17, 2019. For the exhibit, the Dubys partnered with graphic artist Linda Mitsui of Profile Design Group to create CoCoArt sculptures made entirely out of chocolate. The idea was to organically reconstruct a geometric sphere shape, and each piece weighs in at about 75 pounds. Additionally, the installation will also include print canvases of Wild Sweet’s awardwinning CoCoArt photography, showcasing their hand-painted chocolates. The canvases also feature other food ingredients, colors and photographic techniques including lighting and perspectives resulting in visually unique 42

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compositions. For more information about Wild Sweets® By Dominique & Cindy Duby, visit www.dcduby.com, or follow the conversation on Instagram or Facebook via @wildsweets.

Cover Story

Ksenia Penkina

Up Close with the ‘Glazing Queen’ By Tish Boyle


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ancouverbased pastry chef Ksenia Penkina is known in pastry circles as the ‘Glazing Queen’, owing to her talent for creating exceptionally beautiful glazed cakes in vivid colors and patterns. Each of her cakes is a work of art, a dazzling presentation that is photo-ready and ideal for sharing with Penkina’s legion of Instagram followers. But her skills are not limited to the artistic elements of her creations – balancing textures and flavors is as important to Penkina as the shiny wrappings of any cake. We spoke to her recently about her work and her various projects, from online classes to designing cake molds to creating a new line of signature food colors, and what she regards as the secrets to her success in her pastry career and business.

The Q&A When did your passion for pastry begin? Ever since I was a child, I’ve never stopped creating. I have gone through limitless types of art and hobbies until I found my passion in patisserie. Starting from simple knitting and painting projects, writing and acting, video production and editing, photography and design, website development and marketing – all of my hobbies during my teenage years, when I was trying to define myself. My passion for patisserie and, specifically, entremets, began when I saw the work of my sister, who is a pastry chef. I was impressed with the beauty of her desserts at first, how flawless they were on the outside. Then I realized how smart and challenging the inside world is. It’s like you meet a perfect partner, who is not only handsome, but also intelligent. And that is how I met my partner in crime – the work that I love. Receiving my degree in Switzerland, I was introduced to an extensive kitchen and all of the basic ingredients, tools and equipment, rules and regulations for the first time. The kitchen became limitless – it is free, challenging and creative. It moves me to learn and constantly develop myself and my skills. To enhance my skills and knowledge, I travelled around the world and learned from some of the best pastry chefs, including Frank Haasnoot, Jordi Bordas, Karim Bourgi, Amaury Guichon, and others. Even today I don’t stop learning and striving to develop myself, constantly educating my palate, skills and techniques, mainly focusing on the inside world of the dessert, understanding the chemistry behind it, and the process of product integration. Pastry Arts


You can get a recipe and ingredients from any chef, but without the correct techniques and temperatures, you will not have the same result. 46

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Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the secret to an exceptional cake and a really shiny glaze? Proper ingredients and technique. You can get a recipe and ingredients from any chef, but without the correct techniques and temperatures, you will not have the same result. For the cake as a whole, I am committed to using only natural ingredients: real cream or milk, 100% fruits and berries, and the highest quality chocolate. This allows me to create one of the most unique textures and flavor balance in my desserts. When you have a bite of the cake, this experience is hardly forgettable: a soft and light mousse, an intense and bright layer with fruits or berries, a second creamy layer, a premium sponge, and an unforgettable crunch. All in one bite. It is amazing! In my hands-on classes, many of my students have little experience in making entremets, and they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know yet how deep and interesting this subject is. My social networks are filled with beautiful pictures of glazed cakes, and

that is what leads them to my class. I am glad to shift their perspective and work on something more important and meaningful than this. [In my classes] we actually dedicate 90% of our time to theory, basics, textures, temperatures and techniques of making the cake itself: creamy layer, mousse and biscuit. At the end of the class, most of the appreciation and hugs I get are because of that information. But we also have some magical moments, and it comes with the glazing time at the very end â&#x20AC;&#x201C; showing different techniques and effects that can be done with the glaze, using various tools. We also talk about defects that most people struggle with, and how to manage them. When everybody start glazing, right away I have a room full of children with their favorite toys. Jumping around cakes with pure joy and lots of selfies (of course). We all create magic together and this is the happiest moment of my class. This is when my students realize the joy of the result, and that all the hard work behind it was worthwhile. Pastry Arts


What inspires your new creations? I am highly inspired by innovations, and not only in a pastry world. At the moment when I thought to myself that the Mercedes car design had the most classical lines and curves representing the philosophy of “sensual purity”, as they call it, and said, “That’s it – there is nothing more outstanding that can be done with classical luxury,” well, here comes Tesla. In my opinion, Tesla not only outdid the design with its smooth and sinuous luxury, but their electricity innovations were just breathtaking. When I see that something outstanding like this is created, something that we’ve never seen before, I get the feeling of how much more we can do, how much more we can learn. Some things seemed impossible a few years ago, and today they are part of everyday life. It gives me an absolute belief that everything is possible and anyone can do it. Why not me? Why not you? ‘Just do it’, as they say, or at least try. One day this idea comes to you: a new design, a new flavor, a new project. Most of the time it is based on some experience, but sometimes your creation is exceptional. This is what moves us forward. By looking at each of my projects, I try my hardest to make it different. Sometimes it works, sometimes I should try harder. This way I grow personally and professionally. Some of the desserts I see on the web are truly inspirational, they give me goose bumps. It moves me to create ‘goose bumps’ for someone else.


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Do you generally choose your glaze colors based on the flavors of the cake? People who know me for my glazing style know that I am highly attentive to it. I prefer to leave my desserts with very limited decoration. My cake already consists of several glaze or velvet colors, so adding additional weight to it is unnecessary. I must say, glazing is my favorite part. However, the most important part is the cake itself. The inside world of my dessert should be simple and clear. I feel most people prefer something they can understand, something they know and are familiar with. Having three to four flavors in the cake is enough to understand and recognize what’s on your spoon. Something significant I implement to each of my desserts is a balance of textures: light and soft mousse, creamy layer, crunch, biscuit and a bright insert. Altogether it is built into classical shapes: pastry rings or round molds. My work is accurate and precise, classy and elegant. Just like me.

You have over 367,000 followers on Instagram. Was that something that you worked on, or did it just kind of happen? Were you surprised by how popular your work is? I am highly focused on the content of my pages by analyzing what people would like to see. When I understand the needs of my followers, I present them with what they value the most, attracting more visitors at the same time. If you have one dessert in a bakery which never sells, it is logical to remove it from the menu. I do the same with my pictures, texts and content in social networks, understanding “what, when and how” I should or should not make a post. It is simple marketing, and a lot of hard thought and physical work. This is what every business needs in order to be successful. Also, I am good at photography and video making. Growing web madness also comes with a “beautiful picture” must-have. Not only can your dessert be tasty, but also attractive to the eye. Nowadays, bakers must not only create unique texture, flavor and balance in their dessert, but also create a design that will impress your online viewer. It could be your follower, your customer

or another professional chef. Many people are still trying to go against it, and don’t see the value of good content. Well, unfortunately, this is today’s world. You either go with the flow, learn new skills and develop, or you are flowing backwards, letting the new generation move ahead.

How did you get started teaching your techniques online? The idea of doing online classes came to me from my followers, along with all the rest of the ideas and projects that I do. I always listen to the feedback of the people who follow my page, and if suggestions and comments begin to repeat, I pay attention and act on them. At the moment when I released the first online class, I already had some of my followers waiting for it. At that time my Instagram page was already filled with beautiful pictures of the cakes I was making, and people were asking if there was a way to learn my techniques. The success was instant, because the project was needed even before I started to plan it. It was a big pleasure to share my experience for the first time with people who love baking.

I am highly inspired by innovations, and not only in a pastry world. Pastry Arts


What’s the level of students who take your online classes? For online classes, I am highly focused on teaching students with no or little experience. I believe that everyone should have an opportunity to create something special, something that used to be available only to professionals. I am providing basics in a way so students can start generating and embracing their own ideas. My goal is to make them powerful by having the knowledge and using it individually, because each person is unique and talented in their own way.


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You also have an Instagram account devoted to your students’ work — what a great idea! Has this inspired others to take your classes? It absolutely did! Seeing the direct links to real people and their creations after taking my class can make it possible to imagine what can be done, even if person doesn’t have any experience in baking. With this page – @ by.students – I am following all my student profiles around the world, and it allows me to put it all together and easily find their work. It also makes me happy that my students are now proud of that page, so they strive to do their best just to be featured. And they see other students and follow them; it’s a little family. They trust me and I trust them.

People who know me for my glazing style know that I am highly attentive to it. I prefer to leave my desserts with very limited decoration.

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If you look at the concept of having a bakery 100 years ago or today, nothing has changed, and in 50 years it will be the same. Tell us about Haute [ōt] by Ksenia Penkina, your line of food coloring and molds.

Your cakes are so incredibly popular — have you ever considered opening up a retail bakery? The world is turning faster than we can imagine, and it is important to turn with it, otherwise you may get stuck behind. I am always looking at the current or upcoming trends. There are so many opportunities for me to create and develop with my team: projects, collaborations, teaching, writing – it is all today’s world. While those opportunities come to me and I can see it is new, fun and exciting, I go with it. It keeps my work and myself fresh and constantly motivated. If you look at the concept of having a bakery 100 years ago or today, nothing has changed, and in 50 years it will be the same. When I have had all my fun with current trends and decide to settle down for a bakery, I will be more than happy to do so. 52

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This year I have released my signature silicone cake molds GEMMA and MINI GEMMA with the best company in the field, “Silikomart” from Italy. Rapidly they became best sellers worldwide, and I look forward to more projects in that field. Recently we launched my signature, one of a kind, food coloring, Haute [ōt] by Ksenia Penkina. We have developed the colors, shades and intensity, promising the highest quality on the market. These powdered food colors are the most intense, which allows you save on quantity and health, because you only have to use a small pinch to achieve a bright, intense shade. There is also a wide range of unique color combinations available so that you can create a most desired dessert in any production. Last year we also launched an online pastry shop under the same brand, Haute [ōt]. It features ingredients, tools, and equipment for professional and home kitchens. We also present Haute [ōt] colors and our own production of silicone and chocolate molds, with the possibility of customizing your own shape and mass production for hotels and bakeries.

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your best piece of advice for someone just getting started in the pastry business? If we are not just talking about pastry passion, but pastry business, I will have to point out the World Wide Web. While building your style and passion in pastry, at the same time make an effort to learn and develop your communication channels, such as Instagram, Facebook, your website and other media. Nowadays, social networks are not only for fun, but they are a must for a successful business. By the time you are developed as a pastry professional, you will have a base channel to spread your talent and get attention for your work. With that base, you can easily open a bakery, create online classes and make sales, because you would already have people who follow and support you as clients or customers. Photo Credits: Silvija Crnjak, Ksenia Penkina

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Edibles Hit

a New High By AnnMarie Mattila


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BD, or Cannabidiol, has seen a spike in sales across multiple product categories in recent years, from lotions and oils to treats for both animals and humans. Touted for its ability to relieve pain, anxiety and stress, CBD is a nonpsychoactive chemical compound found in cannabis. Sales of CBD products are expected to be in the billions in the next few years, so it should be no surprise that high-end edibles are a new trend on the market.

Gone are the days of the questionable pot brownie consumed at college parties. Some notable pastry chefs are getting into the game and turning CBD gourmet, such as critically acclaimed pastry chef Martin Howard. He recently launched Chocolatina’s Le Potisserie in Colorado, where he’s currently developing macarons, chocolate truffles, sandwich cookies and madeleines, all infused with CBD. He aims to use the best quality ingredients, just as he has throughout his career before getting into the new market. “I’m a stickler for taste, so that really hasn’t changed,” he notes. His choice in product is unique to the CBD market, but follows the current tastes and popular trends in the pastry world. Some flavor combinations he has in development are chocolate mint sandwich cookies, strawberry basil and lemon apricot truffles, and pumpkin spice macarons. Known for their enormous and highly Instagram-able chocolate chip cookies, New York’s Fat Cat Kitchen started offering CBD

products in late 2018. In just that short time, CBD products became their bestselling items, says owner C.J Holm, selling even more than coffee each day. They offer an ever-expanding menu of CBD products such as gluten-free marshmallow rice crispy treats, brownie bites, and honey shots for lattes. In fact, the shots became so popular that Fat Cat just launched their own jarred honey for retail sale as well, using a local resource that Holm met at the neighboring farmers’ market in Union Square. And of course, those chocolate chip cookies are also available with CBD. While developing the cookie recipe, she perfected the dough first before selecting the chocolate. She tested multiple shapes and brands before settling on Guittard wafers, which she chose for not only flavor and the way they melt in the cookies, but the fact that they are an American brand. Pastry Arts


Potisserie Macarons

Both Howard and Holm use the powdered isolate version of CBD, because they find they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to alter their existing recipes to compensate for the additional ingredient. Oil versions of CBD not only change the consistency of the product and therefore require additional recipe tinkering, but they also tend to change the flavor. Howard says that products using the oil had a distinct hemp flavor, which he was looking to avoid. Perfecting recipes with the powdered form is still important, however, to ensure quality and consistency in the amount of CBD in each product. Both chefs spent a considerable amount of time researching the Fat Cat Kitchen Cookies


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market place to make sure they were offering products with the correct dosages for the average CBD consumer. Most of their products range from five to twenty-five grams per serving. Though different forms of CBD are legal in all fifty states, the laws about what kind can be used, how much is allowed per dose and which products can be offered vary considerably. Many of the laws arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t clear, which can lead to confusion when dealing with government agencies. Fat Cat Kitchen faced an embargo of their CBD treats this past February during a routine inspection by the Department of Health, putting a halt on their production until legal counsel and local media got involved. There seems to be no end in sight for the legal battles in many states, though Holm is looking forward to the possible legalization of recreational marijuana in New York sometime in 2019. Not only would that clear up her current issues with CBD, but open the kitchen door to a whole new world of products using THC. THC, or Tetrahydrocannabinol, the psychoactive part of cannabis, is currently legal in ten states and Washington D.C. for recreational use. Chef Howard said that is the logical next step for his customers in Colorado, though the licensing process takes time. Meanwhile, other brands have already shown considerable success in the THC market. KIVA Confections, based in California, is an award-

winning brand that offers chocolate bars, chocolate covered blueberries and espresso beans, as well as mints and gummies. Cofounder Kristi Knoblich notes that there are challenges when recipe testing with the “strong, bitter, often skunky” flavors of cannabis, so they need to think outside of the box and be creative with their flavor blends. They proudly source their chocolate from a 100 year old local supplier and purposely selected the chocolate for “not only for its quality, but for its unique flavor profile that marries well with the cannabis and positively enhances the flavors.” California potency guidelines are quite strict, so KIVA has developed a step-by-step process to ensure consistency in their products to ensure they pass quality testing. As for taste testing, one might wonder how that works given the aftereffects of consumption. Knoblich says they use a spittoon and swish out their mouths with warm water in between samples, because otherwise “the meetings would always be followed by a long nap in the middle of the afternoon.” The best advice for anyone looking to explore the edibles market? Research! Not only should chefs be diligent in their research about laws as well as the source and quality of their CBD or

THC, but also how much each product contains and how to communicate to their customers. “I want to be informed, I want my customers to be informed, and I want my staff to be informed, so they can answer any questions they might have,” adds Holm. The market is hot, and those venturing out into the high-end sector are finding success. There is an expectation that if customers are eating something sweet, it should taste good. As Knoblich states, “People value taste, plain and simple.”

Potisserie Mint Sandwich

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The Flavor Lab

How Chocolate Tasting is Changing the (Chocolate) Game


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hocolate, one of the world’s most beloved flavors, is also one of its most misunderstood, even by the people who produce cacao. The flavor we know as “chocolate” is actually an amalgamation of hundreds of different flavor compounds found in cacao, which can vary wildly due to plant varietals (genetics), terroir, climate, and the practices used for harvesting, fermentation, and drying the cacao.

Truly understanding how to analyze and shape flavor from pod to palate is the key to producing high-quality, great tasting cacao. TCHO Chocolate, a craft chocolate producer from Berkeley, CA, has been at the cutting edge of this work for more than ten years. Laura Sweitzer, TCHO Source Manager, explains “TCHO Source, TCHO’s innovative sourcing program, was developed in the pursuit of this understanding. This important tenet is incorporated into every single product we make, and into our corresponding years of direct collaboration with cacao farmers.”

too early, not fermented properly, not dried properly? This way producers can adjust their processes to improve quality, flavor, and command a higher price for their beans.” Fermented and dried cacao beans in jute bags.

TCHO Source brought the first mini beanto-bar chocolate making labs to the cacao growing world. These were designed to facilitate collaboration with farmers and cooperative workers (many of which had never tasted chocolate made from their own cacao) to better understand and improve the flavor of their beans. Sweitzer continues, “Now with ten TCHO Flavor Labs in place around the world, farmers are taught how to make chocolate, but more importantly, they are taught how to taste it and analyze the flavor using a specific protocol. Through sensory training and analysis, cacao producers can, not only, identify if there are any defects in the cacao, but also where those defects came from. Was the cacao harvested Pastry Arts


TCHO Source Manager, Laura Sweitzer, tastes cacao liquor with Oro Verde Production Manager, Karen Gisella Macuado. Even with these flavor labs in place, creating cacao with an intentional, consistent flavor takes time. A lot of time. Cacao farmers must have cacao varietals that produce cacao with desirable flavor potential, or gradually introduce a carefully researched new varietal and wait the necessary years for these trees to bear their first cacao pods. Continued training on the importance of harvesting the cacao pods at just the right time and starting the fermentation of the beans immediately after harvesting is essential. Technical staff need to adopt strict protocols for fermentation and drying, as well as knowing just when to alter them based on weather, temperature, or what flavors they are tasting. “In the TCHO model, cooperative farmer members and staff must turn their own cacao beans into liquor (sugar60

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free chocolate) and taste them. This process is honed over many years of cacao sensory training to develop calibrated flavor palates between TCHO and the coop. This allows us to speak a shared language of taste when discussing cacao flavor,” says Sweitzer. Cultivating delicious cacao is without a doubt a long-term journey. This is why it is important to foster long-term relationships with cacao producers around the world. “TCHO has long term partnerships with the cacao growers we collaborate with and purchase from. Years ago, as a nascent tiny company, we came to these cacao growers with the proposal of investing in quality, working hard, and growing together. Today, we are proud to work with many of the same groups we bought our very first beans from in 2007” Sweitzer continues. “One of

A selection of different cacao pod varietals from one farm is Costa Rica showcasing the immense diversity in cacao.

Covered and raised drying beds, installed by TCHO, ensure cacao is dried slow, evenly, and away from contaminants.

those groups is Oro Verde Cooperative in Peru. TCHO has sourced cacao beans from Oro Verde for over ten years. We’ve co-designed and constructed improved fermentation and drying infrastructure at the cooperative through our TCHO Source program in partnership with the USAID funded Cooperative Development Program. In 2011, we installed a TCHO Flavor Lab at Oro Verde. We’ve done countless cacao tastings together with Oro Verde – virtually and in person. We are now at a point in our shared history where we have a mutual understanding of what TCHO’s ideal cacao flavor profile is from Oro Verde, which the coop is able to consistently produce.” Yet there is still always ongoing work and collaboration to be done for the sake of the relationship and the quality of the cacao. Pastry Arts



Rachael Teufel

Transforming a Passion for Cake Decorating Into a Business By Genevieve Sawyer 62

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eholding the cakes crafted by cake artist Rachael Teufel, one becomes quickly convinced that the process of creating them must have been effortless. That’s how natural their forms seem, even though the designs are often surprising.

There’s her Dragon Phoenix Wedding Cake, for example, which features a bright red phoenix alighting on a tiered cake embedded with a sinuous green dragon. “The Phoenix and Dragon wedding cake was created for clients that were hosting a ‘Lord of the Rings meets Game of Thrones’ themed wedding. I took elements of [the] theme along with patterns from the bridal gown to create this cake”. Or her groom’s cake that features an oversized rainbow trout resting on a plank of wood. And the colorful parrot perched on top of a surfboard balanced on a giant cheeseburger cake? Teufel explains that “the effect creates a conversation piece that will be remembered forever.” “My dad and his family came to the States in 1956 from Hungary – during the revolution – and settled in Ohio.” Growing up in Lorain, Ohio, Rachael Teufel came to love the pastry arts through time spent baking with her beloved Hungarian grandmother Elizabeth Kussai. She spent most weekends during her childhood cooking and baking with her grandmother’s guidance, learning from her intuitive skill. Teufel’s grandmother did not use precise measurements either in her cooking or in her baking, yet she had no difficulty creating cakes, cookies, and breads that came out with consistent taste, texture, and visual

presentation, time after time. “She was always throwing in a handful of this, a pinch of that,” says Teufel. As her grandmother was not fluent in English and Rachael was not fluent in Hungarian, they communicated primarily through their kitchen interaction.

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Today, Teufel is a sought-after mentor for industry professionals and a renowned cake artist in her own right. As the originator of the geode cake trend, Teufel has inspired both industry professionals and consumers with her cake artistry, and she has been able to sustain that interest and build on it with a career that continues to support her family to this day. Success did not come instantly, though. Initially, Rachael supported herself as a physical therapist. The interaction with her clients was energizing and challenging for her, and she enjoyed it very much. Still, she was often frustrated by what she saw as the inconsistent coverage of insurance companies, with some providing more coverage than her clients needed and some providing less than what they needed to be fully rehabilitated. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Truly, as a physical therapist I loved working 64

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with people, but I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t care for the politics involved with insurance companies. It was just was really tugging at my heartstrings. My outlet for getting rid of that stress was to bake and do any sort of creative activity. Those outlets helped me.â&#x20AC;? When Rachael would come home from a stressful day at work, she worked on jewelry making, sculpting, flower arranging, and cake decorating projects, and found herself with renewed inspiration. Pleased by her creative success, she began to bake and decorate cakes for others. When somebody had a potluck or a birthday party and needed a cake, she was there. Her designs were popular, and she continued to look for new sources of inspiration. In 2006, she opened her business, Intricate Icings (based in Denver, Colorado), with the use of a rented commissary kitchen.

It is imperative that you have a transition plan in place, especially from a financial perspective.

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Teufel opened her storefront bakeshop in 2010, where she received a crash course in the difference between designing cakes and managing people. Although her interns throughout the years were all efficient and dedicated, she didn’t note any difference in decorating skill level or talent between the ones who had been to culinary school and the ones who had not. “I don’t feel [culinary schools] have a grasp on the decorating, not a true curriculum for the decorating portion. [If you’re] really looking for decorating, you won’t find it in culinary school, per se.” 66

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Ultimately, she was disappointed, because the time and energy she had to put into managing the business took away from the time she could spend on decorating cakes. She found herself giving up what she enjoyed the most, noting that she “wasn’t as hands-on in the kitchen by the end, as I thought I would be, as I hoped I would be.” Teufel found that instead of creating edible works of art, she was explaining techniques to her staff and spending her energy on logistics and office work. In the end, when she closed her storefront in 2014, she did so because she wanted to be closer to her two loves: her family, and her edible art. Now Teufel has the advantage of working at home and being able to be there for her family, the way her grandmother was there for her as a child. Without the existence of the internet and the social media it has fostered, Teufel would not be enjoying her current state of success. When she published an image of her first geode cake online in 2006, it went viral, starting a trend that was popular coast to coast. She also published short videos of herself doing basic instruction on Facebook, and began to receive requests for more instruction on a broader range of topics. Today, she teaches with Bluprint, a Denver, Colorado-based school that operates almost entirely online. The Bluprint studios are close to Teufel’s home, and production and publication are handled by the school, so all she has to do is show up for recording sessions. Once her classes have been recorded and published online, students purchase the classes and access them as they please from anywhere in the world. Teufel monitors her email and responds to inquiries from students as they come in, so that students are not left in the lurch when they are unable to replicate techniques to their own satisfaction. Teufel also mentors professionals who request it. When she provides this service, she reviews the client’s social media and business materials, and then engages in an hour of conversation with them.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a firm believer that everyone should have a career they love, doing something that makes them jump out of bed each morning, excited to start their day.

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When considering what advice to offer those entering the industry, Rachael Teufel reflects on her own experience. Her career transition took place on a solid foundation of strategic planning and preparation. She studied with her local Small Business Association and was prepared financially (working part-time at another job while she developed her cake business), and was thus able to achieve her current level of success. “It is imperative that you have a transition plan in place, especially from a financial perspective.” Another piece of advice she offers is to pay attention to the competition, noting that regional differences are particularly important. “Do as much research on the industry in your geographical area as possible. Not all areas are the same.” But Teufel feels that finances and competition shouldn’t stand in the way of a rewarding career, advising, “Follow your passion! I’m a firm believer that everyone should have a career they love, doing something that makes them jump out of bed each morning, excited to start their day. If your passion makes you happy, you can overcome anything that comes your way!” Photo Credits: Jason+Gina Wedding Photographers, Lisa O’Dwyer Photography, Laura Murray Photography


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If your passion makes you happy, you can overcome anything that comes your way.

Genevieve Sawyer is a freelance food writer who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 2009. She is the co-author of The Rookwood Inn’s Guide to Devouring the Berkshires – One Cultural Bite at a Time.


It’s Time to Rethink

Cream Cheese


rom Valrhona Chocolate to Saint Andre and so much more, Savencia continues to raise industry standards by using traditional methods partnered with innovation and allnatural ingredients.

Working with top pastry chefs, Savencia USA proudly introduces its revolutionary new Smithfield Pourable Cream Cheese. Created for chefs, by chefs, the pourable cream cheese now redefines industry norms and will spark higher levels of creativity. By eliminating the need to heat, bring to room temperature or paddle, the new cream cheese brings a wide variety of benefits to chefs. Imagine the feeling of using a cream cheese straight from the fridge – yes, it’s now possible. With all-natural ingredients and no additives or fillers, Smithfield Pourable Cream Cheese whips beautifully, saving time so you can do more of what you love – create. From cheesecake, frosting, ice cream to mousse, or new applications like pastry creams or chocolate ganache, it’s time to rethink cream cheese.

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Tout Chocolat


By Garry Larduinat

Sponsored by Yield: 15 tarts


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Chocolate Sweet Dough • 250 g unsalted butter • 250 g granulated sugar • 125 g almond flour • 440 g pastry flour • 5 g salt • 80 g Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa Sweet Ground Powder • 100 g whole eggs • 12 g water 1. Cream butter and sugar together in stand mixer using paddle attachment. 2. Add almond flour and mix until well combined and smooth. 3. Add pastry flour, salt and Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa Sweet Ground Powder and mix until well combined. At this point the dough should be sandy and not holding together. 4. Finally, add the eggs and water and mix until completely incorporated and smooth. 5. Shape the dough into a rough rectangle, wrap in plastic, and allow to chill for at least 1 hour in the refrigerator. 6. Sheet the dough to 3mm thick. Shape dough to fifteen 4” tart molds. 7. Bake at 325˚F for about 14 minutes.

Dark Chocolate Cremeux • 488 g whole milk • 122 g heavy cream • 67 g granulated sugar • 37 g cornstarch • 79 g egg yolks • 183 g Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate • 24 g 100% Ghirardelli Chocolate Liquor 1. In a medium pot, mix together the milk and cream and heat up slowly on the stove. 2. In a separate bowl, mix together the sugar and cornstarch. Add yolks and mix until well combined and smooth.

3. When the milk and cream mixture is about to boil, whisk a couple ladles of it into the yolk mixture. Pour everything back into the pot and bring to a light boil for about 2 minutes. 4. Off the stove, pour the hot mixture over the Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate. Emulsify using a hand blender. Allow to cool down in the refrigerator. 5. Pipe cremeux into 3” round Flexi molds and freeze until firm.

Brownie • • • • • • •

292 g Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate 146 g unsalted butter 130 g whole eggs 272 g granulated sugar 9 g vanilla extract 146 g all-purpose flour 5 g salt

1.  Spray a sheet pan lined with parchment paper with non-stick cooking spray. Spray again and set aside. 2. Over a double boiler, melt the chocolate with the butter to 110˚F. 3. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the eggs, sugar and vanilla on 3rd speed for 3 minutes. Scrape down bowl. Mix on 1st speed while adding the chocolate and butter mixture. 4. Sift together the flour and salt. While mixing chocolate mixture on 1st speed, add the dry ingredients. Scrape down the bowl, making sure there are no lumps. Scrape batter into prepared pan and bake at 325˚F for 10 minutes, until set. Pastry Arts


Dark Chocolate Glaze • 337 g granulated sugar • 140 g water • 125 g glucose • 39 g trimoline • 251 g heavy cream • 95 g Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa Sweet Ground Powder • 13 g gelatin sheets, bloomed 1. In a pot, mix together the sugar and water and cook to 246˚F. 2. Meanwhile, while sugar is cooking, mix together – in another pot – the glucose, trimoline and cream. Bring to a boil. Whisk in the Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa Sweet Ground Powder. 3. When the sugar syrup reaches 246˚F, pour it over the cream, trimoline, glucose and Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa Sweet Ground Powder mixture; bring back to a boil. Using a hand blender, mix it for about


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2 minutes. Pass through a chinois. Allow to cool down to 113˚F, then and add the bloomed gelatin. The glaze must be used at 109˚F to 118˚F when glazing dessert.

Assembly • Chocolate décor for garnish • Cashews • Edible gold luster spray 1. Cut out a 1 1/2” section of the side of each tart mold. 2. Cut out 15 3” rounds of brownies. Place one brownie round inside each tart shell. 3. Unmold the frozen cremeux rounds and place on a wire rack. Cover with Dark Chocolate Glaze. Place a glazed round on top of each brownie round in the tart shells. Garnish with chocolate décor and a few cashews. Finish with a shot of edible gold luster spray.

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Vanilla Panna Cotta, Salty White Chocolate Ice Cream, Candied Strawberries By Josh Johnson


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his dessert is an interesting twist on a strawberry shortcake – I love the simplicity of many classic desserts and really enjoy the challenge of recreating them. Yield: 15 servings

Strawberry Sugar Coating • • • •

260 g granulated sugar 15 g confectioners’ sugar 45 g freeze-dried strawberries 2 g citric acid

1. Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend until homogenous and without lumps. Store in airtight container (preferably vacuum pack bags).

Churros • • • • • •

325 g whole milk 60 g granulated sugar 5.5 g salt 150 g unsalted butter 245 g all-purpose flour 200 g whole eggs

1. In a saucepan, combine the milk, sugar, salt, and butter and bring just to a simmer. 2. Whisk in the flour. Continue stirring on medium heat until film forms on the bottom of saucepan, about 2 minutes. 3. Transfer mixture to a 5-quart mixer fitted with paddle attachment and mix just to cool.

When steam is no longer present, slowly add the eggs while scraping down the sides of the bowl. Mix until smooth and transfer to a piping bag fitted with desired piping tip. 4. Pipe batter directly into 350°F cooking oil (or pipe desired shapes and freeze to be deep fried later). Remove when deep golden brown, and immediately coat in Strawberry Sugar Coating.

Vanilla Panna Cotta • • • • • • • •

9 g gelatin sheets 40 g water 128 g whole milk 600 g heavy cream 77 g granulated sugar 150 g sour cream 15 g vanilla bean paste 8 g lemon juice

1. Bloom gelatin in water. 2. Warm milk, heavy cream, and sugar together. 3. Melt gelatin-water mixture in warm milk mixture. 4. Blend in sour cream, followed by vanilla paste and lemon juice. 5. Cast directly into serving dishes and allow to set fully. Pastry Arts


to pasteurize. Strain and cool down, then process.

Salty White Chocolate Ice Cream • • • • • • • • • •

50 g nonfat milk powder 565 g whole milk 2 lemons 70 g granulated sugar 45 g powdered glucose 4.5 g ice cream stabilizer 30 g egg yolks 175 g heavy cream 85 g Guittard Crème Francais 31% 2 g salt

1. In a saucepan, dissolve the milk powder into the whole milk very well with a whisk. 2. Zest the lemons directly into the saucepan. 3. Combine the sugar, powdered glucose and stabilizer and mix into milk. Add egg yolks and heavy cream. Cook mixture to 165°F


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Elderflower Fluid Gel • • • • •

300 g elderflower liqueur 50 g water 50 g lemon juice 60 g granulated sugar 2.8 g agar agar

1. Combine liquids in a saucepan. 2. Combine dry ingredients and rain into saucepan while whisking. Bring mixture to a boil for approximately 2 minutes (full boil) while whisking. Place over ice bath and blend with immersion blender as mixture starts to gel. Allow mixture to gel further, and blend once more when completely cool. Store until needed.

Strawberry Sauce • • • • • •

30 g granulated sugar 1 g NH pectin 200 g strawberry puree 1 g citric acid 60 g raspberry puree 5 g lemon juice

1. Blend everything together. 2. Strain to remove strawberry seeds.

Candied Strawberries

• 200 g granulated sugar • 90 g water • 400 g fresh strawberries, quartered 1. Combine sugar and water and cook to 248˚F (soft ball stage). Remove from heat and add strawberries; stir well. Cool and store until needed.

Plating • Fresh strawberries • Freeze-dried strawberries 1. Panna cotta is best cast into a bowl, but can be cast into a pastry ring wrapped in plastic wrap and then released onto the plate. 2. Style remaining ingredients as desired, and include lots of fresh strawberries, as this will also provide a place for the ice cream to be placed. Place additional freeze-dried strawberries into fresh strawberry mixture for added texture.

Josh Johnson

Pastry Chef, Guittard Chocolate Company, Sycamore, IL

Early Influence

I had a lot of family influence when I was a young kitchen worker, but my dad was my biggest influence and role model for work ethic. My uncle was my first pastry influence – I entered his kitchen at age 13, he showed me how to start from the bottom of a kitchen and work my way up. The only way it should be done.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert

Without a doubt, a warm chocolate chip cookie!

Inspiration for New Recipes

I find inspiration in all sorts of places, but one area that really stands out is often candy bars or protein type bars. All it really takes is one spark, and my brain drifts off into an idea that evolves over time.

Pastry Idol

I don’t have idols; I have many respected mentors or culinary friends that I find inspiring. It’s a long list, but just a few: Donald Wressell, Sebastien Canonne, Jacquy Pfeiffer, En Ming Hsu and Della Gosset.

Best Career Advice

Put away the phone, get a notepad and pen. Work with your eyes open and don’t leave until the job is done. Pastry Arts



Coconut Paleta By Scott Green Coconut sorbet, orange-passion granite, shortbread crumble, orange-passion gel, mandarin segments. Yield: 26 Servings


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Coconut Sorbet • • • • • •

400 g water 70 g trimoline 400 g granulated sugar 60 g glucose powder 14 g sorbet stabilizer 2000 g coconut puree

1. Combine water, trimoline and dry ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. 2. Add coconut puree and hand-blend to homogenize. Let mature for at least 8 hours. 4. Process in Vitamix before spinning.

Orange Passion Granite • • • •

210 g water 190 g granulated sugar 400 g mandarin puree 200 g passionfruit puree

1. Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cool. 2. Combine syrup with purees. Freeze in shallow pan. 3. Shred with a fork before service.

Shortbread Crumble • • • • •

340 g unsalted butter, room temperature 223 g granulated sugar 6 g vanilla paste 1 g salt 456 g cake flour, sifted

1. Combine the butter, sugar, vanilla and salt and cream with the paddle attachment.

2. Add the flour and mix just until combined. Crumble the dough into pieces and bake at 350˚F for 8 to 10 minutes.

Orange Passion Gel • • • • • •

24 g gelatin 18 g gellan, low acyl 200 g granulated sugar 800 g mandarin puree 400 g passionfruit puree 20 g lemon juice

1. Bloom the gelatin. 2. Combine the gellan and sugar. 3. Combine the purees in a saucepan and add the sugar mixture while whisking. 4. Bring the mixture to a boil and add the gelatin and lemon juice. Cast immediately into a shallow, full sheet Flexi-mold. Refrigerate until set. 5. Once set, cut into 2” x 7” strips.

Plating • Mandarin oranges 1. B  efore plating, supreme the mandarin orange segments and shred the granite with a fork. 2. Place a strip of the Orange Passion Gel on the plate, at an angle in the 2 o’clock position. Place three small, equally spaced piles of crumble on the gel. Place a quenelle of Coconut Sorbet on the center pile of crumble. Place three piles of shredded granite in between the crumble. Place five orange segments on the gel, between the gaps of the crumble and granite.

Serve immediately. Pastry Arts



Strawberry ConsommĂŠ

with Rhubarb Ice Cream and Rhubarb Glass By Amanda Haba


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Sponsored by


othing says summer to me more than the combination of strawberry and rhubarb. The frambosa variety of rhubarb that Ponthier selects for their purée is the best out there, hands-down. It is pink, vibrant and has a great tartness that pairs perfectly with the Ponthier 100% strawberry purée, made from Senga Sengana and Camarosa varieties. To balance all the fruit in this recipe, I love to use the Felchlin Edelweiss white couverture and yogurt. This is summer on a plate!  Yield: 30 servings

Strawberry Consommé • 8 pt strawberries • 240 g granulated sugar • 60 g Ponthier Lemon Chilled Purée 100% 1. Wash and quarter the strawberries. Place in a stainless steel bowl, sprinkle with sugar and add lemon purée. Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Place over a pot of simmering water. Simmer for 1 hour, allowing strawberries to release their juices. 2. Strain, and discard strawberries.

Felchlin Edelweiss White Chocolate Yogurt Mousse • 8 g gelatin sheets, bloomed and melted • 650 g Greek yogurt, room temperature • 10 g Ponthier Lemon Chilled Purée 100% • 720 g Felchlin Edelweiss White Couverture Coins • 500 g heavy cream, whipped

Ponthier Rhubarb Fruit Glass • 550 g Ponthier Rhubarb Purée • 10 g Sosa Agar Agar • 195 g granulated sugar • 100 g glucose • 100 g Sosa Maltodextrin Powder 1. Using a hand blender, combine the purée and agar agar in a medium pot. Add the sugar and glucose. Stirring constantly, bring the mixture to a boil. Pour the mixture into a shallow container and refrigerate until fully set and chilled. 2. Blend the set mixture in a high-speed blender until it is smooth. Add the maltodextrin and continue to blend until dissolved. Spread the gel in a thin layer on a lightly greased sheet of acetate and dehydrate for 24 hours.

1. Add the bloomed and melted gelatin to the Greek yogurt; add the lemon purée, then add to the melted white chocolate and stir to combine. Fold in the heavy whipped cream. 2. Pipe into a ring mold and freeze. Pastry Arts


Sosa Yogurt Strawberry Micro Sponge • • • • • •

300 g egg whites 60 g granulated sugar 60 g almond flour 20 g all-purpose flour 60 g Sosa Yopols Mediterranean 20 g strawberry powder

1. Put all the ingredients in a high-speed blender and blend well until the mixture is smooth and even. 2. Strain the mixture and put into a siphon, adding three loads of nitrous oxide and beating vigorously between loads. Make three small cuts in the base of a plastic cup for even cooking. Dispense the mixture into the plastic cup, filling 1/3 of the way. Cook for 30 seconds in a 900-Watt microwave.

Ponthier Rhubarb Strawberry Sorbet • 300 g Ponthier Rhubarb Purée • 300 g Ponthier Strawberry Purée 100% • 60 g Sosa Prosorbet 100 Cold • 75 g glucose powder • 40 g water 1. Blend all the ingredients together with a hand-blender. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator overnight to mature. 2. Process according to the ice cream machine manufacturer’s specifications. Pipe into quenelle molds and freeze.

Assembly • Micro flowers • Sliced strawberries 1. Place Felchlin Edelweiss White Chocolate Yogurt Mousse ring onto plate. Ladle the Strawberry Consommé into the center; break up the Ponthier Rhubarb Glass into pieces and arrange them decoratively. Tear pieces of the Sosa Strawberry Yogurt Micro Sponge and place around the edges with a quenelle of Ponthier Rhubarb Strawberry Sorbet. Garnish with strawberry slices and micro flowers as desired. 82

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Amanda Haba Corporate Pastry Chef at AUI Fine Foods

Early Influence

My dad mostly; he had a huge garden that he would cook and can all the fruits and vegetables; and Julia Child, I watched her every Saturday. I was always amazed at her creations – that truly made me want to pursue this career path.

Signature Style

Classic flavors with an innovative twist. Clean and light with different textures.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert

Anything with peanut butter!

Inspiration for New Recipes

Seasonal flavors and travel.

Best Career Advice

Attitude is everything, work hard, ask questions and never stop learning.

rethink cream cheese


CafĂŠ con

Leche Choux By Stefan Riemer


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his Café con Leche Choux dessert was created for Toledo―Tapas, Steak & Seafood, a new rooftop restaurant offering dishes and small plates inspired by the flavors of Spain, slated to open this summer at Gran Destino Tower at the newly reimagined Disney’s Coronado Springs Resort in Orlando. The design of this resort connects the modern with classic Spanish design, inspired by innovative Spanish artists, writers, and architects. This dessert is a perfect representation of that connection with its classic Spanish flavor and creative, contemporary presentation. Yield: 12 servings

Coffee Custard • • • • • • • •

1 (silver) gelatin sheet 50 g brewed espresso 50 g whole milk 20 g pasteurized egg yolk 10 g granulated sugar 175 g milk chocolate, melted 1 pinch coarse salt 137.5 g heavy cream

1. Bloom gelatin sheet in ice water. 2. Heat espresso and milk in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat for 5 minutes, until warm. Remove from heat. 3. Whisk together egg yolk and sugar in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in half of the warm heavy cream and coffee mixture to temper the egg. Strain egg and sugar mixture into saucepan with heavy cream and stir until combined. 4. Add bloomed gelatin sheet, melted milk chocolate, and coarse salt to custard. Stir until smooth. 5. Whip heavy cream to soft peaks. Fold into custard. 6. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours.

Chocolate Mousse • 1 (silver) gelatin sheet • 337 g heavy cream, divided • 157 g bittersweet chocolate

• 10 ml orange liqueur • 56 g pasteurized egg yolk 1. Bloom gelatin in ice water. 2. Heat 138 grams of heavy cream in a medium saucepan until warm. Add dark chocolate chips and stir until smooth. Remove from heat. 3. Heat bloomed gelatin and orange liqueur in microwave for 15 seconds, until 113˚F. Stir in egg yolk, then pour into chocolate and cream mixture. 4. Whip remaining 275 grams of heavy cream to soft peaks. Fold into chocolate mousse. 5. Pour into 4-centimeter molds and freeze for at least 4 hours.

Chocolate Craquelin • • • • •

115 g granulated sugar 105 g all-purpose flour 7 g cocoa powder 115 g unsalted butter 2 g coarse salt

1. Place sugar, flour, cocoa powder, butter, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Blend until combined. 2. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and chill for 45 minutes. 3. Roll dough to 1/8” thickness and cut into 3-centimeter circles. 4. Set aside until ready to serve. Pastry Arts


Chocolate Pâte à Choux • • • • • • • •

125 g water 125 g milk 100 g unsalted butter 5 g granulated sugar 5 g salt 142 g all-purpose flour 7.5 g cocoa powder 225 g eggs

1. Preheat oven to 302˚F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Combine water, milk, butter, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. 3. Quickly stir in flour and cocoa powder using a spatula. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly for 1 minute, until mixture pulls away from sides of the pan. 4. Transfer to electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and mix on low speed for 2 minutes, until slightly cooled. Add eggs, one at a time, and beat until soft peaks form. 5. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a large round tip. Pipe into 3-centimeter circles onto prepared pan 6. Bake for 30-35 minutes, until they are puffy and bottoms begin to brown.

saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring constantly, until gelatin is melted. 4. Add to whipped cream mixture and beat until smooth. 5. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Vanilla Chantilly

Dark Chocolate Glaçage

• • • • •

1/2 (silver) gelatin sheet 250 g heavy cream, divided 50 g confectioners’ sugar 1/2 vanilla bean, scraped 1 pinch coarse salt

1. Bloom gelatin sheet in ice water. 2. Combine 187.5 grams of the heavy cream with the confectioners’ sugar and vanilla bean. Whisk by hand to soft peaks. 3. Place remaining 62.5 grams of heavy cream and bloomed gelatin sheet in a small 86

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• • • • • •

4 sheets (silver) gelatin 60 g water 50 g granulated sugar 70 g glucose syrup 40 g condensed milk 80 g dark chocolate

1. Bloom gelatin sheets in ice water. 2. Combine water, sugar, and glucose syrup in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Add bloomed gelatin and condensed milk. 3. Place dark chocolate in a medium bowl.

Stefan Riemer

Executive Pastry Chef, Walt Disney World Resort Standardization, Development and Optimization, Orlando, Fl

Early Influence

My dad making gelato and Karlheinz Hauser (Chef-Mentor). Photo Credit: Matt Stroshane Pour warm gelatin and sugar mixture over chocolate and mix with a hand blender. 4. Keep at 35°C (95°F) until ready to serve.

Plating • 12 chocolate decorations • Fleur de sel 1. Whip Vanilla Chantilly and Coffee Custard by hand to soft peaks. 2. Place Coffee Custard in piping bag fitted with a round tip. Fill chocolate pâte à choux with Coffee Custard. Set aside. 3. Spoon Chantilly onto a plate. Top with filled Chocolate Pâte à Choux and Chocolate Craquelin. Remove chocolate mousse from freezer and glaze with chocolate glaçage. Add to top of chocolate craquelin. 4. Garnish with fleur de sel and chocolate decoration.

Signature Style

I am classically trained, so I am always looking for ways to apply traditional techniques to modern applications. This allows me to connect the complexity in flavor, taste, and texture to menu storytelling.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert

Apple Tart with Chantilly or Berliner (Pfannkuchen), since these are from my hometown!

Inspiration for New Recipes

I am inspired when traveling, networking with industry professionals, and enjoying dinners around the world. I also like to talk with our guests about what THEY want to see on our menus – giving me an opportunity to understand, first-hand, what our guests are looking for in terms of flavors and trends.

Best Career Advice

Don’t limit yourself, share thoughts and ideas, embrace opportunities, work hard but smart, and follow your dreams. Pastry Arts



Chocolate/ Coconut/ Pineapple By Mina Pizarro


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hange of seasons always plays a major role in energy and inspiration. This piece is inspired with the warmth creeping out of the cold. All things bright and fresh. Visually, it depicts budding trees and flowers in bloom. Emotionally, it represents lightness. Yield: 10 to 12 servings

Chocolate Lavender Ganache • • • • • • •

500 g heavy cream 2 g lavender buds 350 g Jivara chocolate 75 g trimoline 120 g granulated sugar 440 g lavender cream 4 g salt

1. Bring heavy cream to a simmer in pot and stir in lavender buds. Allow to steep overnight. 2. Prepare pint lid containers: Coat with nonstick spray and chill lids in refrigerator. 3. Melt chocolate in a medium bowl. Strain lavender cream and measure out correct amount. In a saucepan, combine lavender cream and trimoline and bring to a slow simmer. Remove from heat and reserve. 4. Cook sugar to an amber caramel and deglaze with lavender cream. Stir to combine well. Strain over melted chocolate and mix with a rubber spatula until smooth. Portion 27 g of the ganache into each lid and freeze.

Coconut Milk Ice Cream • • • • • • •

250 g coconut milk 250 g milk 160 g condensed milk 45 g glucose syrup 6 g trimoline ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp xanthan gum

1. Heat all ingredients except xanthan gum together, mixing until well combined. Add xanthan gum and emulsify with an immersion blender. Mature mixture overnight. 2. Process in machine and transfer ice cream to a pastry bag until ready to use.

Chocolate Coconut Lid • • • • • •

450 g coconut milk 120 g confectioners’ sugar (10X) 6 g maltodextrin 160 g salt 240 g coconut oil 61% bittersweet chocolate, tempered

1. Bring coconut milk to a boil. Lower to a simmer and heat until coconut milk separates. Whisk constantly until coconut solids are toasted. Strain and reserve coconut oil. 2. In a large bowl, mix together all the dry ingredients. Stream in cooled coconut oil and stir to combine. Transfer mixture onto a sheet pan lined with a baking mat. Slide sheet pan back and forth repeatedly until mixture resembles small pebbles. Chill coconut pebbles. 3. Portion a layer of coconut pebbles onto clean pint lid containers. To finish, put tempered chocolate into a parchment piping bag and cut a very fine tip. Carefully pipe thin spirals of chocolate onto the surface of the coconut pebbles to weave them together into round lid. Reserve in refrigerator. Pastry Arts


Coconut Foam • • • • •

3 g gelatin sheets (silver) 256 g milk 64 g granulated sugar 425 g coconut milk ¼ tsp xanthan gum

1. Bloom the gelatin and reserve. 2. In a saucepan, heat the milk and sugar until sugar is dissolved. Strain milk mixture into coconut milk. Using immersion blender, blend xanthan gum into mixture. Transfer to an iSi container. Charge with two N2O cream chargers. Shake canister well and reserve.

Pineapple Gel • • • •

750 g pineapple 185 g granulated sugar 1 g salt Pinch of citric acid

1. Cut pineapple and blend in Vita-Prep until smooth. Transfer pineapple into a pot with the sugar. Cook until reduced and thickened. Cool. Stir in salt and citric acid. 2. Pass mixture through a tamis and transfer to a squeeze bottle with a fine tip.

Plating • Rainbow sorrel petals 1. Lift the Chocolate Coconut Lid out of the pint lids. Dot it with Pineapple Gel and reserve. 2. Place Chocolate Lavender Ganache disc onto a plate. 3. Pipe concentric circles of ice cream on the outer ring of the ganache. Pipe Coconut Foam in the hollow center. Gently place Chocolate Coconut Lid on top. Finish with rainbow sorrel petals on dots of Pineapple Gel. 90

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Mina Pizarro

Executive Pastry Chef, L’Appart, New York, NY

Early Influence

Michel Bras – Essential Cuisine.

Signature Style

Simple, minimalistic and bold.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert Rice pudding.

Inspiration for New Recipes Traveling, visiting museums and walking the farmers’ market always make me think of ways to express flavors in different forms.

Best Career Advice Photo Credit: Emma Kenny Photography

Observe, listen and learn from those that move you. Use and trust your five senses. Pastry Arts



Ole and Steen

Raspberry Tart Yield: 24 tarts

Vanilla Pastry Cream • • • • •

2 vanilla pods 65 g granulated sugar 1 lt whole milk 8 large egg yolks 60 g cornstarch

1. Cut the vanilla pods in half and scrape out the seeds. Take a spoonful of the sugar and mash it together so that the seeds do not lump together. 92

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2. Combine the milk, vanilla seeds and vanilla pods in pot and bring to a boil. 3. Meanwhile, whip the egg yolks and the rest of the sugar until it is light, fluffy and white. Fold the cornstarch into the yolks. 4. When the milk is at a boil, add it to the yolks while whipping. Pour it back in the saucepot and boil for about 1 minute or until you are satisfied with the consistency. (It burns easily at this stage so keep stirring.) Pass it through a sieve. Cool down for 24 hours.

Sablé Almond Crust

Basic Sable Dough • • • • •

750 g all-purpose flour 250 g confectioners’ sugar 3 g baking powder 500 g unsalted butter 75 g whole eggs

1. Sift the flour and confectioners’ sugar together. 2. Put confectioners’ sugar, flour, baking powder in a mixer and mix together. Add the butter and mix together. Add the eggs a little at a time, but be careful not to mix the dough too much. 3. Roll dough out so it is about 3 mm thick. Cut out the dough with a ring that is 8 cm in diameter (3.15 inches). Put on a tray with a baking sheet underneath.

Almond Paste

• • • • • •

200 g dark chocolate 175 g heavy cream 250 g vanilla pastry cream Fresh raspberries 50 g pistachios, roughly chopped Basic Gelée (above)

1. Melt the dark chocolate. 2. Using a small brush, brush the chocolate inside the almond circle on the crust, be careful not to brush onto the almond side. Set aside to harden. 3. Whip the heavy cream until it forms medium to stiff peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the cold vanilla cream. Pipe the vanilla cream onto the crust. 4.  Decorate the tart with the raspberries. Brush the berries with the gelée. Sprinkle the pistachios on top.

• 250 g almond paste • 100 g sugar • 40 g pasteurized egg whites (approximately) 1. Mix almond paste and sugar together. Add egg whites until the mass has the right consistency. 2. Pipe the almond around the edge of the dough circles. With a knife or fork, poke little holes in the middle so it does not bubble up. Bake for about 11 minutes at 392°F (200°C). Cool down.

Basic Gelée • 5-6 gelatin sheets • 500 g water 1. Bloom gelatin in cold water. 2. Bring water to a boil. Melt gelatin in water. Set aside until needed. Pastry Arts



Understanding Pastry Textures

Creaminess By Jordi Bordas & Adrianna Jaworska


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he elemental goal of culinary arts is to give people a pleasurable sensory experience, which entails much more than an exceptional taste and wonderful visual presentation.

In the past years, witnessing the rapid development of neuro-gastronomy – a scientific field dedicated to studying every possible aspect of our eating experience – chefs all over the world have become conscious that being able to create, modify and combine textures might be the key to unlocking consumers’ satisfaction. From this perspective, we can see that nowadays understanding and mastering textures is a prerequisite for pastry and savory chefs alike. And since among pastry textures creaminess might just be the most desirable one, it seems justified to devote some time to understand its basic technical principles. We all seem to know when a food product, like yogurt, cheese, ice cream or chocolate, is abundant in or lacks creaminess. Studies report that both food professionals and untrained tasters usually agree as to whether a given food is creamy or not1, which suggests that the perception of creaminess is a basic skill that we all possess. But while the perception of creaminess might not cause us any problems, defining it is another matter. The definition of creaminess seems to be constantly evolving as this - primarily textural – food property has also been linked with some taste, smell and color characteristics of food products. What this means is that we experience creaminess not only through the touch receptors in our mouth, but also through our sense of sight, smell and taste. This, in return, provides some

explanation as to why creamy textures are often described as smooth or velvety, but also rich, buttery or mouthcoating2. All these descriptions of texture, mouthfeel and even taste contain important clues regarding the physicochemical properties of creamy foods. Let’s start with richness.

Creamy textures provide a pleasant, rich mouthfeel that for a long time has been associated with dairy products with high fat content. Undoubtedly, fat contributes largely to our perception of creaminess by changing how the food moves through our mouth. A sorbet passes through our mouth so quickly that it barely mixes with the saliva, rapidly changing its physical state from ice and sugar crystals to a flavored solution of water and sugar. Full-fat ice cream, on the other hand, lingers in our mouth. The milk fat molecules do not dissolve right away, but instead coat our tongue, providing the thickness and roundness we expect from creamy textures. Pastry Arts


In order to build a creamy texture, we need fat (or, in some cases, an ingredient mimicking the properties of fat), but not just any kind of fat. We need a fat with a specific melting point. Think of two words describing textural properties of a food: buttery and oily. Why is it that buttery is associated with creaminess and oily is not? For instance, butter and olive oil are both fats, but the important distinction between the two is that they have very different melting points. The fats that procure a creamy sensation are usually the fats with a melting point around human body temperature (37 degrees): butter, cocoa butter, coconut oil, etc. These fats literally melt in our mouth.

Emulsions are structures that help us build creamy textures. Choosing an appropriate fat, nonetheless, is not enough, as fat alone procures a fatty rather than creamy sensation. The reason why cream, butter or chocolate give as a soft, pleasant mouthfeel is that they are all emulsions homogenous unions of fat and water. We all know that oil and water do not mix. That is, until we mix them with a small molecule called an emulsifier. An emulsifier is composed of both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oilloving) parts and is responsible for bringing and holding together the water and fat molecules. In traditional pastry, egg yolk (lecithin and lipoproteins), and milk proteins (casein and whey proteins) act as emulsifiers, but modern pastry offers us a variety of ingredients that can be used to create emulsions. Another important factor when talking about emulsions and creaminess is how the size of the fat droplets influences our perception of creaminess. In an oil-in-water emulsion, the fat droplets are dispersed in the water medium with the aid of a whisk, hand-blender or a


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homogenizer. This mechanical action breaks down the fat droplets into smaller units and allows them to remain â&#x20AC;&#x153;suspendedâ&#x20AC;? in water. The smaller the fat droplets in an emulsion, the more we perceive the emulsion as smooth and velvety. The last part of the creamy equation is viscosity. In simple words, viscosity describes how easily liquids flow. Milk has a relatively low viscosity, while yogurt has a much higher one. Even though they have a very similar fat content (around 3.2-3.5%), the difference in viscosity accounts for our perception of creaminess of yogurt vs. milk. Some ingredients have physicochemical properties that naturally help us increase viscosity. The coagulation of milk proteins and eggs is how pastry cream and crème anglaise turn from runny liquids into smooth and thick textures. If we decide not to use milk proteins or eggs, we can still increase the viscosity of a given preparation by using hydrocolloids (starches, gums, pectin, etc.), which we will see in the recipe example that follows.

Chestnut cream recipe – a comparative [B·Concept is a method developed by Jordi Bordas for creating healthier, lighter and tastier recipes from scratch. This method - based on an analysis of all the technical and physicochemical principles behind different pastry textures – allows us to create gel, creamy and airy textures that are healthier, lighter and have maximum flavor.] In order to demonstrate that creaminess is not dependent on the use of certain ingredients (like, for example, high-fat dairy products), but rather on the technical principles explained in this article, we have created two recipes of chestnut cream. We called the first one “classic” as we are using cream, egg yolks and butter. The second one is a vegan recipe containing no dairy or egg products. The result are two recipes with comparable levels of creaminess, albeit different fat content and caloric values.


PROCESS 1. Mix together the sugar and the pectin. 2. Heat the puree, cream and egg yolks to 45ºC and stir in the previous mixture. 3. Heat to 85ºC, stirring constantly, and cool to 35ºC. 4. Heat the butter to 40ºC and stir in the previous preparation, working vigorously with a hand blender. 5. Cool in the refrigerator and use.



PROCESS 1. Mix together the inulin and pectin. 2. Heat the puree and water to 45ºC and stir in the inulin mixture. 3. Heat to 85ºC, stirring constantly, and cool to 40ºC. 4. Heat the coconut fat to 35ºC and mix with the sunflower oil, add the emulsifier and gradually fold in the previous preparation, vigorously emulsifying with a hand blender. 5. Cool in the refrigerator and use. Pastry Arts


While the classic recipe relies on cream, egg yolks and butter for creaminess and on pectin for extra viscosity, the vegan recipe builds creaminess using only chestnut puree, water, coconut oil and an emulsifier. Coconut oil - with a melting point very close to that of butter (2835ºC) - allows us to create a soft texture. And the addition of sunflower oil increases the elasticity of the creamy (needed for the decoration of our individual cake. Emulsion between the aqueous part of the recipe (chestnut puree and water) and the fats (coconut and sunflower oil) is formed with the help of Natur emul – an emulsifier composed of citrus fiber. And the viscosity is controlled on one hand by pectin, and on the other by xanthan gum present in the emulsifier’s formula. Both recipes give us a creamy mouthfeel, but the recipe without dairy and eggs has a purer, more pronounced chestnut flavor. It is also lighter in terms of fat and calorie content and has a slightly darker color. The recipes have similar sugar content and sweetness level, since most of the sugars in both recipes come from chestnut puree. Substitutions that we made for the chestnut cream can be applied for many other creamy recipes, proving that – upon a good understanding of its principles – creaminess can be achieved with any set of ingredients. To sum up, creating cream textures relies on three basic principles: (1) choosing a fat with an appropriate melting point, (2) making an emulsion, and – if needed – (3) changing the viscosity of the preparation. This list does not exhaust all the other sensory factors contributing to our perception of creaminess (such as color, aroma, etc.), but it is the technical base that helps us decode what makes a texture creamy.

When we understand the foundations behind different food textures, we are no longer limited by traditional recipes or ingredients. We can design textures of all kinds, giving people a truly unique eating experience. Photo Credits: Jordi Bordas, Martí Sans Jordi Bordas World Pastry Cup Champion 2011 CEO of Jordi Bordas’ Pastry School https://jordibordas.com Jordi Bordas is a pastry chef who is revolutionizing the pastry field. After becoming the World Pastry Champion at Sirha – Lyon in 2011, he started to investigate pastry ingredients and techniques, which led him to create the B·Concept – his own method to create healthier, lighter and tastier recipes from scratch. In his pastry school in Viladecans (Catalunya, Spain), he is teaching pastry professionals the scientific principles behind different pastry textures and how to use them to formulate recipes adapted to their needs.

Mouritsen, O., Styrbæk, K., & JOHANSEN, M. (2017). Mouthfeel: How Texture Makes Taste. New York: Columbia University Press, p.106. 2 Kirkmeyer, S.V. and Tepper, B. Understanding Creaminess Perception of Dairy Products Using Free-Choice Profiling and Genetic — Responsivity to 6-n-Propoylthiouracil. Chemical Senses, 28, 527-536. 3 In the vegan recipe we have substituted added sugar for inulin – chicory root fiber that is an excellent bulking agent, as well as a prebiotic. This substitution is not necessary for building creaminess, but it keeps the added sugar amount in the recipe in check, while still giving us some sweetness (inulin has a relative sweetness of 10% compared to sugar). It also makes the recipe healthier by increasing its fiber content. 1


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Timothy Maguire From Personal Chef to Chocolatier By Shawn Wenner

Sponsored by Le Cordon Bleu


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orking out of Asheville, North Carolina, in a 1500 square foot state of the art facility, Timothy Maguire is a pastry chef living out his dream. Starting as a private chef to billionaires, and then packing up to attend Le Cordon Bleu in Paris for the pastry program, Maguire has now created a technique and transfer system with his company Refined Designs Chocolate that brings consistency at scale without the cost of heavy machinery.

The Q&A What prompted you to change courses from being a private chef for billionaires, nonetheless - to now owning a chocolate company? Being a private chef for people like Paul Allen and Carl Icahn, I lived very glorious years, but I always wanted to be a pastry chef. People eat food because they’re hungry, but people eat desserts to make them happy, and that always fascinated me. Looking up to pastry chefs in New York City who influenced me, I always wanted to be one. While working as a private chef, my wife and I would participate in pastry competitions. I also was [commissioned] to create showpieces for various events. Working for some of the richest people on the planet, they would send me around the world to stage, but it was chocolate, one of the coolest ingredients in the world, that I wanted to focus on. For that reason, I ended up attending Le Cordon Bleu in Paris for their pastry program.

What inspired you to attend Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, specifically? In working with chocolate and sugar, I was frustrated that my work wasn’t at a [certain level]. In my opinion, cookbooks are great, but it’s almost impossible to learn chocolate and sugar art out of a cookbook. Being frustrated, and believing that you should go to the country of origin to learn something, I dropped everything at 27 years old and moved to Paris to attend Le Cordon Bleu. I knew if I didn’t do it then, I would never do it, and I decided to attend the best school in the world.

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Can you tell us what the experience like while attending the pastry program? It was one of the best times of my entire life. I connected with a mentor, Chef Fabrice Daniel, who is now in charge of the pastry program. I became his assistant for demonstrations both in class and for off-campus events – for both pastry and savory demonstrations. Being his assistant, it was like going through some of the classes multiple times. I took so much away from the entire experience – it was incredible.

How did the education help you transition back into the industry, since you had worked as a private chef already? It completely upped my game. I learned things like ratios, timing, temperature, humidity, environments, etc., all things I would have 102

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never learned if I didn’t attend a hands-on program. As I said before, it’s almost impossible to learn some of these things in a cookbook. Coming out of the pastry program, I was well equipped with skills to focus more on pastry and chocolate.

Where did the idea for your chocolate transfer company, Refined Designs Chocolate, come from? For a period of time, I sold chocolate wholesale on the side in New York City, and I started getting the idea for better transfer sheets. A lot of the transfers I was using for enrobed or dipped bonbons were about 0.65 cents a piece. In selling the bonbons for about a buck fifty, there wasn’t much room to make money. I started thinking about how I could create something that would stick on the inside of the mold, and then stickers placed on fruit, which are nontoxic, came to mind. I got a roll of them and started working on the technique, and that’s how everything got started.

Essentially, for those who can’t afford enrobing machines, your molds, transfers and technique provide a solution for consistency at scale, right? Yes, enrobing machines are expensive, and if you can’t afford them, you’re working with molds. With our technique and transfer sheets, you can get that consistent product like an enrobing machine. And with polycarbonate molds, the chocolates can achieve a shine that you cannot get with an enrobed bonbon. They come out looking like jewels. We have a system where someone can make thousands of chocolates using our technique that look the same, all without using a machine.

What is the goal now with Refined Designs Chocolate? We’re selling a great number of molds and chocolate transfers through the website, and we will keep growing that part of the business. At the same time, we are working on getting pastry chefs and chocolatiers acclimated to this technique before launching our new tools, transfers, and stencils. I truly believe someone will learn the technique and then take it to the next level. We left NYC for the mountains of Western North Carolina where we bought a ten acre farm. Our mission is to grow, and also locally source as many products for our Farm to Table confections - Timothy Maguire Chocolates. We are working with hotels and companies in the Asheville, North Carolina area wholesaling our chocolate, and in the colder months, we will incorporate selling and shipping our specialty chocolate as well. We are taking the bull by the horns and jumping in head first. Pastry Arts



Danish Pastry

Ole and Steen Opens in Manhattan By Nick Malgieri


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ately new bakeries have been sprouting up all over New York City, serving updated classics, homey baked goods, and ethnic sweets from around the world. In the latter category, a new Danish import, Ole and Steen, stands out. Ole Kristoffersen and Steen Skallebaek, the founders, have sold the business to Denmark-based Nordic Capital Fund VIII, and they plan a multi-national expansion of the Ole and Steen brand beyond the present areas of Denmark, England, and New York.

With nearly a hundred locations worldwide, Manhattan’s Union Square neighborhood is the chain’s first American branch, with several more planned for the same borough. Lagkagehuset (layer cake house) is the firm’s original name, strangely because the building that the first branch occupied resembled a layer cake and not because layer cakes were a specialty. Shortly after the opening, I visited the Union Square branch of Ole and Steen and spoke at length with Malou Bennes, the head pastry chef of the New York rollout that will eventually comprise three branches and a central commissary in Maspeth, Queens. Bennes, 29, is a native of Copenhagen and attended culinary school near that city. After acquiring experience in the classic Danish repertoire, she set her sights on working for Lagkagehuset, and achieved her dream in 2011. Bennes spoke of her passion to work for the company: “I literally pounded on the door repeatedly until they hired me.” Her determination is impressive. Pastry Arts


As a brand, Ole and Steen is very much involved with promoting the concept of hygge (pronounced HOOgah), or a relaxed, comfortable coziness that is an integral part of the Danish lifestyle. Relaxing with friends over coffee and pastries or a light savory snack is a prefect example of hygge, whether at home or in a pastry shop or café. To that end, Ole and Steen offers a wide variety of baked goods such as whole grain breads to take home or enjoy on site in a typically Danish open-faced sandwich such as shredded carrot rye bread paired with smoked salmon. Other breads include white spelt bread, a seeded rye bread, and another rye that contains chia seeds. Danish pastry, called Wiener brød (Viennese bread) in Danish, appears in its classic form in a cinnamon sugar enhanced Danish called a Social Slice, a larger Cinnamon or Chocolate Social, a Copenhagener filled with almond paste and poppy seeds, or a Spandauer filled with custard cream and fruit jam. These pastries are available throughout the day, as well as a wide selection of both sweet and


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savory dishes for breakfast and lunch. The sweet side of the pastry case is filled with nut tarts partially dipped in chocolate, fruit topped bases with piped almond paste borders, cream fancies rolled in chocolate or finely chopped nuts, chocolate cakes topped with cocoa, and marzipan rolls with a chocolate filling. Malou Bennes concluded with information of Ole and Steen’s quest for ingredients prior to the U.S. opening: “Many of our pastries contain almond paste (referred to as marzipan in Danish), and we found American brands had a sweeter composition than the Danish product,” she continued, “So we decided to import it from Denmark. Likewise, with the margarine we use for our Danish pastry dough – we couldn’t find and American brand with the same flavor profile that we wanted.” Although Danish Vikings made landfall in North America during the 10th century, they never established a permanent settlement. Today they’re back; Ole and Steen is here to stay. Photo Credit: Karissa Ong of BeccaPR


NEW! Dedicated Day of Education on Saturday



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REGISTER TODAY AT WWW.IBIE2019.COM Jacquy Pfeiffer French Pastry School

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Chef & Culinary Educator

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Milla Chocolates Los Angeles, California



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Photo Credit: Ali Gokay Sarioz

Christine Sull-Sarioz Owner Company Mission

Providing the best quality chocolates with art and design in mind. Striving for something simple, yet elegant, that brings joy to everyone.

Signature Product

Hazelnut Praliné Bar and Black Sesame Caramel Bonbon.

Secret of Success

Staying true to your beliefs, always striving for perfection, never compromising on quality, creating your own style, being consistent, always persevering, and doing what makes you happy – all for the love of chocolate.

Shop’s Best Feature

Luxurious yet modernist space inspired by Bauhaus and Swedish aesthetics. Unadorned beauty and harmony with raw materials that showcase the jewel-like chocolates. Pastry Arts



Bittersweet Chicago, Illinois



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Mindy Gohr and Esther Griego OwnerS Company Mission

To make every day special, and special days extraordinary.

Signature Product

Flourless Chocolate Mousse Cake, Almond Strawberry Brûlée Layer Cake.

Secret of Success

Make everything with love; treat employees like family. Photo Credit: Bittersweet and Josh Marrah http://www.jwmarrah.com/

Shop’s Best Feature

Twenty-five feet of dazzling pastry case in a cozy, sunny café. Pastry Arts



Pinolo Gelato Portland, Oregon www.pinologelato.com


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Photo Credit: Aubrie LeGault

Sandro Paolini Owner Company Mission

Artisanal Italian gelato handmade in Portland, Oregon. Reviving Old World gelato making in order to create both classic flavors and seasonal specials based on Italian desserts and culinary traditions.

Signature Product

Pistacchio – a classic flavor, on the menu year round. Our pistachios are imported from Sicily and are grown in the volcanic soil of Mt. Etna, facing the sea. This dynamic growing environment gives them an earthy and intense nut flavor that shines in the gelato. Ricotta, Pine Nut & Honey – a seasonal special flavor. The ricotta comes from a Northwest farm where the sheep benefit from grazing on the region’s rich grass. The pine nuts, on the other hand, are imported from the coast of Tuscany, a growing region considered the best in Italy because of their distinct raisin-y flavor. I grew

up there, where we used pine nuts as an everyday ingredient. It’s one of my favorite flavors and that’s why our namesake is “Pinolo”.

Secret of Success

We select the highest quality seasonal ingredients, use as few as possible, and follow Old World gelato making methods. The concept of Italian cuisine is to take as few ingredients as possible and combine them in a way that best highlights and elevates them all. With this in mind, we create both classic Italian flavors and specials that celebrate Italian culinary traditions.

Shop’s Best Feature

Inviting, light-filled space with communal seating. The Italian culture around gelato is about relaxing, sharing and spending time with family and friends. At Pinolo we create that through bench seating, stand-up bars and outdoor tables, all of which bring people together in a neighborhood environment. Pastry Arts



A Look Back at ICCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pastryland and the Pastry Plus Conference By Meryle Evans


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n March 9, 2019, the International Culinary Center held the second Pastryland Bake Sale benefiting Hot Bread Kitchen. More than 350 dessert lovers attended to taste exclusive pastries from 19 of New York City’s best pastry chefs, all while raising $5,350 for Hot Bread Kitchen, a non-profit organization providing culinary training to low-income women in NYC. The afternoon, which featured unique artisanal treats and re-imagined classics, showcased the talents and limitless imaginations of pastry chefs. Alumni of ICC’s Professional Pastry Arts program donated some of the day’s favorites, including Tyler Atwell’s (Lafayette Grand Café & Bakery) Chocolate Ring Ding, Anna Bolz’s (Per Se) Toasted Coconut Layer Cake, Lindsey

Farr’s (Restaurant Marc Forgione) Snicker’s Donut, Charlotte Neuville’s (Charlotte Neuville Cakes + Confections) Miniature Cake Tasting, and Shaun Velez’s (Café Boulud) Mini Pistachio Gateaux. Even our very own Stephen Collucci, ICC Pastry Chef Instructor, got in on the fun with a Chocolate Dipped Fluffernutter cookie. Two weeks later, on March 24, the International Culinary Center in New York City hosted a jam-packed day of discussions and networking for pastry professionals at the second Pastry Plus Conference. Pastry Plus provided a unique opportunity to connect the innovative minds of pastry professionals to meet and discuss the changing landscape of the industry. As a community, pastry chefs, sous chefs, line cooks, bakers and pastry business owners address the evolving workplace, learn about industry innovations and expand the sphere of the modern pastry chef. Pastry Arts



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The theme of this year’s conference, Sharing the Slice, focused on how the industry must consider the way in which we connect and share information. Cooking has always been a shared experience. As Emily Luchetti – Chief Pastry Officer of Big Night Restaurant Group & ICC Dean of Pastry – shared in her conference address, pastries and desserts are innately created to be shared at the end of a meal. The morning forum, presented by Callebaut, brought to light how chefs share ideas and communicate in today’s changing landscape of modern technology. The panel discussion moderated by Mitchell Davis, Chief Strategy Officer of The James Beard Foundation, featured Zoe Kanan (Head Baker of Simon & The Whale and The Studio), Rose Levy Beranbaum (Cookbook Author) and Ron Ben-Israel (Owner of Ron Ben-Israel Cakes). Everything from the future of cookbooks to the risks and rewards of increased connection through social media was discussed. Photos and content courtesy of International Culinary Center. Pastry Arts



Books for

Chefs Curated by Matt Sartwell, Managing Partner of Kitchen Arts & Letters, New York, NY


Pastry Arts

Más: Artisan Toppings and Marble Decoration for the Ice Cream by Mario Masiá $45 As high-level ice cream parlors proliferate in Spain, Mario Masiá has emerged as one of the boldest master ice cream makers. Presiding over a mini-empire of shops in San Vicente del Raspeig, a suburb of Alicante, he has also become a sought-after instructor for his imaginative skills in decorating and presenting frozen desserts. This collection of toppings and mix-ins offers detailed instruction in the creation of such delicacies as white chocolate flakes with dehydrated raspberry, nitrogen-frozen tutti-frutti, an assortment of chocolates for marbling and rippling, and a variety of crunchy tidbits designed to hold their texture when quickly frozen, such as crispy gianduja dice, lemon and almond praliné, and a moistureproof lime cookie. Restaurant and catering pastry chefs alike will find a great deal of practical value here. In Spanish and English. Paperback. Color photographs throughout. Pastry Arts


Bake: Elegant contemporary desserts from the chef of Manhattanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Patisserie Chanson by Rory Macdonald $40 Macdonald is the Chef-owner of Patisserie Chanson, a NYC pastry shop that transforms into a dessert bar at night. His first cookbook offers a collection of detailed recipes for classic pastries and baked goods, often followed by smart modern updates. Ambitious home bakers can challenge themselves with Bake, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clear that Macdonald has his professional colleagues in mind as his primary audience. For example, Macdonald devotes four pages to component recipes and process photography for the creation of the standard Breton favorite kouign-amann, then follows with six variations, including one filled with dulce de leche, another filled with gianduja and topped with caramelized hazelnuts, and another glazed with peanut butter and Concord grape jam. He takes a similar approach with eclairs and macarons and nimbly alternates between elegant updates of fruits tarts and crowd-pleasers such as jelly donuts. Fun and smart, without being so innovative that it loses touch with why people love dessert to begin with. Hardcover. Color photographs throughout. 126

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Prisma: All the colors of dessert by Frank Haasnoot $98 Born in the Netherlands, Haasnoot worked in New York, Hong Kong, Taipei, and Kuwait City before returning to Holland. The winner of several international pastry and chocolate competitions, he has a dramatic visual style and a fascination with the excitement that color brings to his creation. In Prisma (Spanish for â&#x20AC;&#x153;prismâ&#x20AC;?) Haasnoot offers 48 highly detailed recipes grouped by color. White because of its balance, elegance and lightness. Yellow for being the color of ideas and spontaneity. Red because it represents the necessary passion for a trade like that of a pastry chef. Green for being the color of nature and freshness. Purple because it symbolizes magic, imagination, inspiration, and creativity. And finally, black for its sobriety and nobility. The recipes are almost entirely for tarts, entremets, and other cakes. The vibrant colors come from a diverse array of ingredients and flavorings: mangoes with lemongrass; apples with apricot; cherries with lemon; currants and almonds; cassis with chocolate; shiso and kumquats; hazelnuts and coffee. In English. Color photographs throughout. Hardcover. Pastry Arts


Desseralité: Plated fruit desserts from the pastry chef of Alain Ducasse’s restaurant at the Plaza Athénée by Jessica Préalpato $85 After a career that included work in small, high-end restaurants in France, as well as gigs in Dubai, Tokyo, Beirut, and St. Petersburg, in 2015 Jessica Préalpato became the pastry chef at the Michelin three-starred Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée in Paris. It was about that time that Ducasse began re-inventing the restaurant along the lines of “naturalité” or “naturality,” placing an emphasis on the fundamental flavors and textures of main ingredients. “Desseralité” represents the extension of this idea to the realm of desserts and includes some bold, imaginative combinations of flavors. Fresh and dried figs with green coffee ice-cream; strawberries with goat cheese curd and lime-arugula pesto; fresh and roast cherries with spring honey and watercress; fresh persimmons with persimmon ice cream, walnuts and rosehip wine. In contrast to Cedric Grolet’s showstopping presentations in his book fruit desserts (available in French, Spanish, and English), Préalpato’s plates are simpler, with a coolly refined informality that suggests great confidence. In French. Color photographs throughout. Hardcover. 128

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The Neapolitan Pizza: A Scientific Guide about the Artisanal Process by Paolo Masi, Annalisa Romano, and Enzo Coccia $59.95 The work of Neapolitan pizza makers is legendary, enmeshing them in lore and cultural history. And those aspects are by far the most written about. But this crisply translated work is concerned with the technical production of doughs and their shaping. It is, in many ways, the pizza equivalent of Emily Buehler’s Bread Science. Chapters include wheat flour and how it is ground, legally classified, and evaluated in Italy; flour components and their behavior, including starch gelatinization and retrogradation; the function of water, yeast and salt; the rheological and fermentative properties required in pizza flour; a step-by-step analysis of production from the mixing process all the way through garnishing and baking; and a fifty-page visual troubleshooting guide that addresses everything from flaccid dough and uneven cooking to a bitter taste. Paolo Masi is Professor of Food Processes Engineering at the Università degli Studi di Napolo Frederico II. Annalisa Romano is Managing Director of the Centre of Food Innovation and Development in the Food Industry at Università degli Studi di Napolo Frederico II. Enzo Coccia is a third-generation pizzaiolo. Paperback. Color and b-&-w illustrations throughout. In English.

All of the preceding books are available at Kitchen Arts & Letters. www.kitchenartsandletters.com

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Profile for Rennew Media

Pastry Arts Magazine - Summer 2019  

Inside the Summer Issue: + Pastry Virtuosity: Churro Mania + Kriss Harvey: Portrait of a Chocolatier + A Short(ish) Guide to Plated Desser...

Pastry Arts Magazine - Summer 2019  

Inside the Summer Issue: + Pastry Virtuosity: Churro Mania + Kriss Harvey: Portrait of a Chocolatier + A Short(ish) Guide to Plated Desser...