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Pastry Arts PASTRY

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BAKING

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FROZEN

SPRING 2019 · ISSUE 3

Crossroads

Peter Yuen

Where Savory Meets Sweet

Pursuing the Perfect Croissant

+

Modern Soufflé

Emily Luchetti

A Blood Orange Freeform Delight

On Professional Growth & Reflection

Jen

Yee


L’ÉCOLE VALRHONA BROOKLYN This year, Valrhona’s worldwide Pastry and Chocolate Schools, L’ÉCOLE VALRHONA, celebrates 30 years of sharing, passion, expertise, and innovation. For 30 years, l’École Valrhona and their Chefs have been by your side, helping to cultivate your talent, individuality, professional creativity and growth. Our team and Chefs invite you to join us at l’École Valrhona Brooklyn for unforgettable, hands-on and intimate learning experiences.

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4–5 TASTES & VARIATIONS ON VIENNOISERIE Chef Greg Mindel 10–12 FRAMED CHOCOLATE BONBONS Chef Philippe Givre

15–17 VIENNOISERIE, N E W PANETTONE & TEA TIME Chef Oriol Balaguer

25–26 MODERN BUFFET Chef Sarah Tibbetts

21–23 BACHOUR MIAMI N E W STYLES Chef Antonio Bachour

AUGUST 5–7 PLATED DESSERTS & PETITS GÂTEAUX Chef Patrice Demers

APRIL 2–3 NEW LIFESTYLE & PASTRY TRENDS Chef Sarah Tibbetts

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16–17 INTRODUCTION TO CHOCOLATE Chef Paul Saiphet

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NOVEMBER 4–6 PASTRY STYLES BY YANN DUYTSCHE Chef Yann Duytsche

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9–11 PLATED DESSERTS N E W BY GHAYA OLIVEIRA Chef Ghaya Oliveira 16–18 UNVEILING MODERN PÂTISSERIE Chef William Werner 23–25 CHOCOLATE SHOWPIECE N E W & ENTREMET WITH 2019 PASTRY TEAM USA Chef Laurent Branlard Chef Nicolas Chevrieux Chef Victor Dagatan Chef Olivier Saintmarie Chef Jordan Snider

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Contents Features

16

66

16 Emily Luchetti

On Professional Growth & Reflection

48 Jen Yee

Following Her Palate & Instincts

48

66 Peter Yuen

Pursuing the Perfect Croissant Pastry Arts

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Contents 10

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78 Warm Apple Pomegranate Tart A Recipe by Deborah Racicot

84 Citrus Pavlova

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96

A Recipe by Angel Betancourt

88 Coconut Matcha A Recipe by Robert Nieto

92 Chocolate Pistachio Bar 10 Pastry Virtuosity: Cake Shake Theory Column by Jimmy MacMillan

26 Crossroads

Where Savory Meets Sweet

30 Business Bites

Owners Share Challenges & Advice

36 Savoring La Dolce Vita New Italian Outposts in New York

A Recipe by Renee Cade

96 Freeform Blood Orange SoufflĂŠ

Technique by Modernist Pantry

108 Places

- Ginger Elizabeth Chocolates - Patisserie 46 & Rose Street Patisserie - Pretty Cool Ice Cream

120 Events for Chefs What 2019 Has In-Store

42 New & Notable

Latest Products, Equipment & Events

58 Irish Soda Bread

A Sweet & Simple Bread by Susan Lagalle Pastry Arts

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O B S E S S E D W I T H F L AVO R A N D FA I T H F U L TO C R A F T, W E H A N D S E L E C T T H E F I N E ST C AC AO, PASS D OW N T I M E - H O N O R E D R E C I P E S , A N D T I R E L E S S LY I N N O VAT E O U R T E C H N I Q U E S . 1 5 0 Y E A R S I S N ’ T A M A R K O F O U R L O N G E V I T Y. I T ’ S A T E S TA M E N T T O O U R P A S S I O N . G U I T TA R D.C O M / 1 5 0


Pastry mArts ag azin e Pastry Arts Magazine 151 N. Maitland Ave #947511 Maitland, FL 32751 Email: contact@pastryartsmag.com Website: pastryartsmag.com EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Shawn Wenner

Advisory Board Andreas Galliker

Andreas Galliker is the Senior Vice-President of Innovation and Product Development at Albert Uster Imports in Gaithersburg, Maryland.

Managing Editor Tish Boyle Staff Writers Meryle Evans Jenna Rimensnyder Contributors Jimmy MacMillan, Robert Wemischner, Robert Nieto, Susan Lagalle, Brian Cazaneuve, Angel Betancourt, Deborah Racicot, Scott Geurin, Derek Bissonnette, Renee Cade Cover Jen Yee Cover Photographer Andrew Thomas Lee CREATIVE Graphic Designer Rusdi Saleh

Biagio Settepani

Chef Settepani is a Certified Master Baker who owns and operates two Bruno Bakery outlets in Staten Island, and has won many accolades and medals over his long pastry career.

Francois Payard

Francois Payard owned and operated Payard Patisserie until 2009, and has won many awards such as ‘Pastry Chef of the Year’ by the James Beard Foundation, Medal of Honor by the French government, and selection as a member of Relais Desserts International.

BUSINESS President Shawn Wenner Publisher Jeff Dryfoos ADVERTISING

Jacquy Pfeiffer

Chef Jacquy Pfeiffer is the co-founder of the prestigious French Pastry School in Chicago. He has won numerous awards and honors, including the National Order of the Legion of Honor in France, and a James Beard Award for his cookbook, The Art of French Pastry. He was also the subject of the Kings of Pastry documentary film.

For advertising availability & rates, contact Jeff Dryfoos at SALES@PASTRYARTSMAG.COM The opinions of columnists and contributors are their own. Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement by Pastry Arts Magazine and/or Rennew Media, LLC. Sources are considered reliable and information is verified as much as possible, however, inaccuracies may occur and readers should use the information at their own risk. Links embedded within the publication may be affiliate links, which means Pastry Arts Magazine will earn a commission at no additional cost to our readers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the expressed consent of Rennew Media, LLC. For advertising information, letters to the editor, or submission inquiries, please email: contact@pastryartsmag.com. Pastry Arts Magazine Published by Rennew Media, LLC © Copyright 2018, Rennew Media, LLC All Rights Reserved

Norman Love

Norman Love is an internationally acclaimed pastry chef and chocolatier, and the founder/owner of Norman Love Confections. Norman Love owns and operates four chocolate salons in Southwest Florida and ships signature chocolates and specialty products around the country.

Susan Notter

Chef Notter’s international work experience led to being an instructor and co-owner of The International School of Confectionery Arts for many years. She has resided in the USA since 1992, and is currently the USA Sales Professional for Max Felchlin AG, Switzerland.

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Editor’s Note

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Editor’s Note

ast fall, in the first issue of Pastry Arts Magazine, I briefly explained our vision for the future. More than just a “magazine,” we planned to build a full-blown multimedia platform for pastry and baking professionals with multiple resources – magazine, podcast, video content, job board, etc. That said, we are thrilled to launch the official Pastry Arts Magazine this month. byofficially Tish Boyle, t the start of everyPodcast year, roughly 40% Hosted of people make New and featuring guests like Ronwhile Ben-Israel, Luchetti, Year’s resolutions, the restEmily typically haveJason some Licker, particular goal Jen Yee and more, Incredibly, we hope the podcast becomes a staple resource and a in mind. only about 8% achieve their resolutions for you. Next up is our video – more to follow on athat soon. getting staggering 92% fail.content Everything from starting business, in better shape, managing stress there’stoa introduce myriad of our lifestyle Also, included in this issue, webetter, are excited newchanges people desire. “Business Bites” column. After hearing from 1500+ readers through you, I’m a primary goal is one of two things; launch a business ourFor survey, weguessing discovered an overwhelming majority dream of one venture or grow currently Whywill elsecover would you be reading day owning their one ownyou’re business, so thisrunning. new column business Entrepreneurial Chef, right? That said, if you truly want to dominate this year as concepts and advice in hopes of inching aspiring entrepreneurs a food entrepreneur, I’d encourage you to focus explicitly on your thoughts, toward their goal. feelings andwe behaviors. Becausehonored as they say, thoughts create your reality. Finally, are extremely to your become official media In this of issue, we great connected with Chris Cosentino as our cover story and partners some events this year. From the Pastry Plus he proved that someone who gets in tune with their thoughts, feelings and Conference held by the International Culinary Center in New York behaviors can make massive positive changes both in their and career. And to the new International Artisan Bakery Expo (IABE) andlife industryCosentino gives an extremely raw account of his journey that will no doubt leading International Baking Industry Expo (IBIE) in Las Vegas, these leave you charge inspired. events push theand industry forward by supporting companies and Additionally, inside this issue, tackle upcoming trends, branding, professionals alike, which alignswe perfectly with our mission. As such,financial management, relations, and connect with various food we encourageemployee you to review the events section in this issue forentrepreneurs more who shed light on what made them successful. information about attending. As always, youyou enjoy the latest issue and someArts fresh ideas, As always,we wehope hope enjoy the latest issuepick of up Pastry inspiration, and actionable advice. Magazine!

A

Cheers, Sincerely,

Shawn Wenner Editor-in-Chief

entrepreneurial chef

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Pastry Virtuosity

Cake Shake

Theory By Jimmy MacMillan 10

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t’s exciting that desserts in the United States have been improving drastically over recent years. It’s hard to ignore the momentum of cupcakes, doughnuts and viral items such as the cake shake! Using our ‘pastry mind’ we can apply the same skills and artistry as we would for a plated dessert to a cake shake composition.

Seen everywhere from small pubs, chain restaurants and fast food establishments, the cake shake is so over-the-top and decadent, one can’t help but be curious. For pastry chefs, the attraction of cake shakes is that there is an audience of customers that love these items. In this article, we will explore the theory behind pairing the cake, the shake and the explosive garnishment of this dessert. At its core, a cake shake is a decorated glass, a blended shake with ice cream, beer and other ingredients, and a cake slice. The glass is then decorated with buttercream and candy, cookies, and other décor pieces. Much of what can be criticized about cake shakes is that the individual garnishes may be attractive and delicious, but often they seem gratuitous and thrown on randomly. This can also be said for the elements that top the actual cake slice. The cake slice should be made from scratch, kept fresh and made with high quality ingredients. Since cake shakes are an extravagant offering, anything is fair game: glitter, chocolate pieces, crisp pearls, candy, etc. Perhaps the biggest challenge with cake shakes is to resist adding these items just to get a ‘wow’, without considering the overall theme or design. We use the best quality ingredients and custom-made décor pieces to maximize the artistry of the cake shake. Just like a plated dessert! Cake shakes have a built-in vertical opportunity, so use supports like straws, skewers, and picks to reach for the sky. The design of the assembly is very important. We arrange the top decorative elements like we would a child’s pop-up book – layering each item to create depth and dimension. Stability is important, so we build the top assemblage as if we could lift the cake and everything off, and it would remain intact. Included are some of our most successful pairings. Use the photos as a guide to see how we applied the above insight to create interesting beverage pairings, designs with overall theme, and visual appeal with ample height and stunning presentation. Pastry Arts

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S’mores Campfire Cake Shake Working with a popular combination such as S’mores can be redundant, so we stayed close to home using the marshmallows, graham crackers and chocolate from our childhood. The cake is chocolate espresso layered with house-made marshmallow fluff and white buttercream. The chocolate flavor of Young’s Double Chocolate Stout is a natural complement to the chocolate syrup, vanilla ice cream, and marshmallow fluff. The top assembly plays with the geometry of the cake (triangle), whole graham cracker (large rectangle), chocolate bar (smaller rectangle), and burnt marshmallows (cylinders). A colorful ‘lit pick’ flame adds red, yellow and orange to the otherwise muted s’mores colors, and the flame brings action to the cake shake.

S’mores Campfire Cake Shake with Young’s Double

Candyland Cake Shake with Framboise & Raspberry Cake

Candy Land Cake Shake In honor of National Candy Month, we ran this Candy Land Cake Shake featuring Lindeman’s Framboise, a raspberry vanilla ice cream shake, berry layer cake and featured nostalgic favorites nerds, swirl lollipops and candy necklaces. The framboise and berry flavors are reminiscent of the flavor of a candy necklace, and the colors we lifted off the Candyland game board. 12

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Pumpkin Pie with Gingersnap Cookies & O’Fallon Vanilla Pumpkin Beer

Rough Cider with Apple Pie & Hennessey

Pumpkin Pie Cake Shake Another variation is the Pumpkin Pie Cake Shake made with Great Lakes oatmeal stout, vanilla ice cream, pumpkin pie slice, caramel, whipped cream, vanilla butter cream and gingersnap cookies. The top is garnished with a milk chocolate leaf maple leaf. To avoid a drab presentation, Thanksgiving colors were brought in by adding orange crunchies to the outside of the glass green chevron stripes to sip the shake. The spice of the beer matches the traditional pumpkin pie, and extra is added when blended, so every sip tastes like pumpkin pie.

Rough Cider A simple variation on the cake shake, diners enjoyed our Rough Cider, a Hennessey-spiked cider cocktail made with our mulled cider (juniper berries, cinnamon, cloves, orange peel) and topped with fresh apple pie, whipped cream, caramel and cinnamon sticks. We switched out our usual glass for a glass mug to complement the ‘rough’ theme and supported the warm apple pie slice with cinnamon sticks. Pastry Arts

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Bananza Cake Shake with Banana Beer, Malted Milk Balls & Gold

Grinchmas Cake Shake featuring Great Lakes Christmas Ale

Bananza Cake Shake

elements as possible. We carefully matched the green and added sprinkles to simulate fur. The eyes were made by piping chocolate on a stencil copied from the original Dr. Seuss book. We placed the cake upright and trimmed it with white chocolate cotton candy. We can almost imagine the Grinch himself sipping on this murky green cake shake! As a note, each of these cake shakes were served @publichousechi exactly as shown. We hope you enjoyed these examples of cake shakes with some applied dessert theory to create playful and delicious offerings for the restaurant or bar.

Our most recent offering is the Bananza Cake Shake, made with banana bread beer, malted milk balls, banana chips and vanilla ice cream. The cake is also banana and topped with chocolate stars and streamers. Gold glitter and gold crisp pearls help complete the look. We chose to work with banana because it’s a yellow fruit, as an elaboration on the yellow color of the beer. Everything on this shake is yellow or gold, but we chose to top the dessert with a dark chocolate star to give depth to the assembly. The effect can be viewed as a star falling out of the night sky.

Photo Credit: Lindsey Simon

Grinchmas Cake Shake My favorite Cake Shake to date is the Grinchmas Cake Shake, as the entire shake works together to portray one idea. The shake is Great Lakes Christmas ale, Oreo cookies, peppermint cake, and candy canes. There is a lot going on with flavor here, but the idea was to create a Grinch that was immediately recognizable in as few 14

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Jimmy MacMillan is a celebrated pastry chef, food writer and award-winning videographer. As the Corporate Pastry Chef for DineAmic Group in Chicago, Chef MacMillan creates viral desserts for six restaurant venues. Currently, Jimmy is developing a new video series under the name JMVirtuosity. For more information, visit www.JMPurePastry.com


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Profile

Emily Luchetti

ON Professional Growth & Reflection By Shawn Wenner

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rom working at the legendary Stars in San Francisco to authoring several books, co-hosting a PBS show, appearing on various television programs, and receiving industry awards such as the James Beard Foundation’s Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America, Emily Luchetti has helped to define what great pastry means in America. Her secret? Combining passion and tenacity with a healthy dose of curiosity. Because passion, as she says, can disappear rather quickly when you have 400 sugar flowers to make. In our interview, Luchetti shares a bit of her professional journey, and provides advice for young professionals today about getting over mistakes, the danger of social media, and planning for a long-term career.

The Q&A First, what was it like working at the legendary Stars Restaurant with Jeremiah Tower? Jeremiah is a bit of an enigma. On the one hand, he can be extremely difficult, but on the other hand he’s extremely charming, has a great sense of humor, and his palate is impeccable. Stars was life-changing for everybody who worked there. One of the most remarkable things was when Jeremiah opened it, no one knew if it was going to take off or what it was going to be, because no one had seen anything like that before. We were in unchartered waters. Then, when we opened, and everything took off the way it did, it changed the country as far as how people looked at food. It was a very, very magical place to be. Pastry Arts

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Many pastry chefs or professionals want to “do their own thing” or “their own desserts” instead of “working for someone,” what are your thoughts on this? Was this something you wrestled with personally?

With all the success you’ve had thus far, when you look back, what helped you get to where you are today? To be successful, you have to have a combination of tenacity and passion. You can have a passion for making cakes, but when you’ve got 400 sugar flowers to make, the passion disappears quickly, and tenacity has to slip in and take over. The balance of tenacity and passion gets you through the different parts of your day and career. Staying curious is a big part; and the willingness to do hard work day-in and dayout. It’s a creative journey as well as a practical journey. So, it’s keeping both of those things alive at the same time. Also, I’m more competitive with myself than with other people. If I see someone do something in the dessert world I find amazing, I get excited and want to promote them because I’m a firm believer that everybody can win. Everybody wants to be the best, but there are so many different ways to do things. I’m competitive with myself and want to keep doing new and different things, whether it’s creating new desserts, pastries, or dessert related experiences. 18

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You’re [either] going to be told what to do by the boss of a restaurant or if you’re on your own, your customers are going to tell you what they want. First, you need to stay true to yourself and what your style of food is, but at the same time, you need to be practical. I always give a crème brûlée analogy. Pastry chefs say crème brûlées are boring and uncreative, and my attitude is they’re low food cost, easy to make, and the customer loves them. So, what’s wrong with that picture? Maybe it’s not the most creative thing that you’re doing, but it checks a lot of boxes. If you’re selling out your soul and doing something that is totally against who you are as a person, [that is one thing], but you also have to be practical in the fact that you want to make a living. You’re going to have to bend the rules a little and ask what are you being so principled on that it’s kind of silly? To a certain extent, we should all say it’s just food. Be very true to it and take it very seriously, but just be a little bit more pragmatic. Another example is a lot of people who start a bakery say they’re not going to do soups and sandwiches, just desserts and pastries, but three months in they start selling soups and sandwiches. Why? Because it helps their bottom line immensely. It gets people in the door at another time besides when they’re looking for something sweet, and if they’re in for a sandwich or soup, it could boost dessert sales. So, I think you have to be open-minded. But again, if someone’s asking you to sell your soul to do something, quit and go work somewhere else. But the idea that you can run your own business and you’re not going to have other people tell you what to do is a fallacy.


To be successful, you have to have a combination of tenacity and passion. You can have a passion for making cakes, but when you’ve got 400 sugar flowers to make, the passion disappears quickly, and tenacity has to slip in and take over. Pastry Arts

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What helped you develop your own unique style? My personality kind of matches my food style; I’m more understated – I dress simple, a little classic and I’m down to earth. It evolved [in San Francisco], and I was very fortunate to be at Stars where everything came together. It felt very natural to me. People often ask how to match desserts with a menu, and I tell them if they understand the overall ethos of the chef, restaurant, and culture, it’s not forced. You don’t have to think about it. Every time I do something, I just create things that naturally fit. Some of that is choosing to work with people where there’s a commonality.

What fundamentals have been vital to your success? You can’t make much without folding, whipping and beating [laughs]. It’s a discipline for hard work and the appreciation of hard work. Nothing

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comes easy. There are days you wake up, and you’re so tired you don’t want to go in, but you go. Because if you want it, you have to work for it, and it makes it that much sweeter when you get it. It’s also being open to new ideas and not doing everything the same way. There are many techniques people can use, but when you switch something around, it can suddenly come out better – like making a caramel sauce, and instead of adding cream in the end, you add rum or something. With desserts it’s scientific, and there are certain ways you have to bake, but you can learn the rules and then discover which rules you can bend, which rules can be broken, and which ones you can’t mess with at all. There are techniques you learn in the beginning that you will get better with over time, but at the same time, there’s always the ability to bend rules, and it’s something that’s a lifelong experience. Because not only can you figure it out your own way, but someone else will too, and once you see another pastry chef do it a different way, you can adapt to that.


What are some of the trends you see right now that are standing out to you? There are so many different styles that are successful at the same time. When I started, everything was in restaurants, and now it’s a combination of restaurants, bakeries, food products, etc., and I find that breadth is really good. I am concerned that it seems very few people want to work in restaurants anymore, and the other problem with that is they want to own a business – bakery, make cakes – but a lot of people fail because of the margins and how expensive it is to run a business. Also, restaurants have scaled down on the size of the pastry departments which is very discouraging. I’m also very happy that you can find quality on all different levels now. It’s more about quality because we all can’t eat dessert all the time. So, everyone’s saying, we know we’re not going to give them up, so let’s make sure whatever we eat is really good quality.

There are days you wake up, and you’re so tired you don’t want to go in, but you go. Because if you want it, you have to work for it, and it makes it that much sweeter when you get it.

Something you started was #dessertworthy, a movement to empower people to be more mindful of their sugar and fat indulgences; can you share the inspiration for this? As a society we aren’t going to get people to stop eating desserts, nor do I firmly believe that they should on many levels – primary because I’m a pastry chef [laughs]. Desserts play a really important role. If you put a bunch of people around the table with a really good Tiramisu – or whatever it is – the whole experience is heightened. Over a lifetime, you get a lot of those little experiences, and they’re instrumental. One Tiramisu isn’t going to do it, but 30 Tiramisu’s over the years does. I really feel there’s a place for it, but I think we need to control it. Pastry Arts

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Don’t beat yourself up for the things that didn’t work or for the reviews you got that weren’t great.

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Now, if you were starting fresh in the industry today, what advice would you give yourself? Don’t beat yourself up for the things that didn’t work or for the reviews you got that weren’t great. Also, you have to be careful not to let the drudgery and hard work of it all overwhelm the bigger picture and the passion. It’s really important to constantly keep yourself mentally engaged and invigorated. There were a few years where I said to myself, “Should I have gone straight to pastry instead of doing seven years in savory? Did I waste that time?” But I really didn’t think that I did because I learned how to work the line amazingly, so you can take that speed and accuracy into the pastry kitchen, and I also learned a palate that I think is very helpful in pastry. Having both sides of the kitchen was really helpful for me.

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What advice would you give to the pastry and baking professionals in the industry today? Be careful of social media. I think it plays a big role, and it’s an important [tool] to promote yourself, but don’t look constantly at what other people are doing stylistically or what they have on their menus to the point where it doesn’t allow you to look internally. You have to look both outward for inspiration and inside. So, you have to turn off those external sources to get back to what you want to do and what you want to express. It’s really easy in this day and age to turn off the internal because it’s never really turned on. And then you might miss some really creative opportunities. Sometimes, the way creativity works is you have stuff in your head and it just turns around like in a mixing bowl and then all of a sudden something comes out and you have to just give things time to kind of shuffle and mix together. So, don’t be constantly on the go that you don’t give yourself enough time for reflection. And downtime is as important as anything because it allows everything to process. You have to look ahead at what you want to do because you can’t be 60 years old and working behind the counter doing production 14 hours a day. Your body just won’t let you do that. When you’re younger, and as you go through your career, you have to start looking at the totality and the longevity of what your role is going to be and how you fit in. Also, allow yourself to evolve as you move through your career, and be open to different kinds of things. 24

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Be careful of social media. I think it plays a big role, and it’s an important [tool] to promote yourself, but don’t look constantly at what other people are doing stylistically or what they have on their menus to the point where it doesn’t allow you to look internally. Photo Credits: Michael Lamotte, Aubrie Pick, Sheri Giblin


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Crossroads

Where Savory Meets Sweet By Robert Wemischner

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B ar k ’s D ka Bo

ack in the 16th and 17th centuries, olives, truffles and artichokes were considered suitable to serve as dessert. At the royal banquets of the day, desserts were often served alongside the savory dishes. Only in the late 17th century, when sugar became a more common ingredient, did dessert take its place at the end of the meal as a separate sweet course. But everything old is new again, as pastry chefs are exploring a wider pantry of ingredients to produce satisfying endings to the meal that includes savory ingredients.

Pastry Chef Meg Galus Using Black Sesame in Ice Cream

ilk C &M

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uckwheat Butt ermilk & St ou t with B

When you ask Meg Galus, Pastry Chef of Boka and Somerset, both in Chicago, for her thoughts on the expanded pantry, she answers: “I don’t necessarily like to put things into hard categories. I’m not thinking of ingredients as strictly ‘sweet’ or ‘savory.’ Instead, I’m seeking to produce desserts that are balanced. Whether I’m using black sesame in an ice cream, or miso in the sauce for sticky toffee pudding to add an element of umami, I’m conscious of the need to create desserts that have dimension and taste good.” Never a proponent of using ingredients in a dessert for shock value, Galus draws upon her experience working on the savory side of the kitchen to season her desserts with ingredients that make sense together on a dessert plate. Likewise, Shawn Gawle, Executive Pastry Chef for the McGuire Moorman Hospitality group, with a portfolio of varied restaurants in Austin, TX and Aspen, CO, likes to mix things up a bit by using duck fat in his cannoli dough, thyme in a pastry cream and tart lemony sorrel in a granita. He elaborates: “I love to use candied rosemary in my Gateau Basque served with a cream cheese gelato, and miso in small doses goes a long way to complexing a sweet coda to a meal.” Pastry Arts

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Herbal accents aren’t the only instances of borrowing from what were considered part of the savory pantry. John Shields, chef-owner of Smyth, a tasting only restaurant, and the less formal Loyalist, both in Chicago, makes liberal use of vegetables, seaweed, mushrooms and many other boundary-erasing ingredients in his desserts. “I view desserts as a seamless continuation of the dining experience.” Seamless and responsive to what’s coming from the farm at any given moment, without distinguishing savory from sweet. Rick Griggs, Executive Pastry Chef at Taste Catering, San Francisco, tends to draw frequently from the herb cabinet in his desserts. “Working with a wide variety of clients and at many different types of high-count events, I don’t tend to go out on a limb mixing savory with sweet, but I have often paired apple-based desserts with a rosemary financier, custards with bay leaf and blackberry sorbet with a judicious use of sage.” Manuela Sanin, Executive Pastry Sous Chef at Eleven Madison Park, NY, also loves using vegetables in her desserts. “Beets, carrots, sweet potato and butternut squash are among my favorites. These can be roasted, poached and pickled or fried into chips, lending a savory accent which pushes the dessert to the next level.” She also likes to infuse white balsamic vinegar with toasted coffee beans or cacao nibs and use it as an ingredient to balance the sweetness in ice creams. Barley, the beer brewer’s favorite, also plays a role in a recent creation. “I toast the grain until it’s dark and then steep it overnight in the milk to make an ice cream base.” She then pairs this with barley malt to make a second ice cream, a crumble and a shortbread, as supporting elements in her minimalist, somewhat architectural sweet presentation. Miro Uskokovic isn’t afraid to finesse blue cheese, curry and fruity gastriques (caramelized sugar deglazed with vinegar) in his desserts at Gramercy Tavern, NYC. He says with confidence: “I never look at dessert as something that is meant to be one-note sweet. It’s all food. The ingredients that I draw from the savory pantry 28

Pastry Arts

Pastry Chef Miro Uskokovic’s Pear, Walnut & Stilton Dessert

are used not to make a dessert sound cool or interesting. It’s because they taste good.” A highly balanced example of his philosophy appears on the pear and bleu cheese dessert where red wine poached pears and Stilton ice cream share space. Caramelized walnuts, red wine caramel and crispy chips of pain d’epices (French spice cake) are each supporting players in the ensemble. Black sesame and miso pastes also figure in his desserts, adding an extra level of salty, earthy notes to a pavlova. Thyme, rosemary and sage appear in apple and pear desserts, adding savory notes to desserts where fruit is the star. His green curry ice cream takes advantage of a pantry of aromatics from the savory kitchen: galangal, kaffir lime, basil, among them. On tables from New York to California and beyond, whether sweet, savory or some of each, desserts are gaining their rightful place as examples of creativity and good taste, encompassing a broader array of ingredients, thoughtfully used. Photo Credit: Daniel Krieger

Robert Wemischner is a longtime professional baking instructor at Los Angeles TradeTechnical College and the author of four books, including The Dessert Architect.


Business Bites

Five Owners Share Challenges & Advice for Opening a Shop

In this edition of “Business Bites,� we connect with five owners to understand the challenges they faced while opening their shop and their best advice for aspiring owners.

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Best Advice for Aspiring Shop Owners

Zaclyn & Albert Rivera Owners, Sweet Pea Bake Shop Sonoma, California The Challenge of Opening a Shop The most challenging part was getting together a comprehensive game plan; nailing down both the long term and short term goals. We had so many ideas, so having to make a firm decision on the concept and what we wanted to serve was difficult. We had to narrow it all down and start small to not be completely overwhelmed. Creating a carefully thought-out, structured plan really helped guide us. With it, we were better able to prioritize our efforts and use our time efficiently.

Don’t be afraid to ask for help. In recognizing our weaknesses, we were able to gain strength by enlisting others. For the areas we realized we might be lacking in experience, we turned to our local Small Business Development Center to assist us in filling in the gaps. Their team of experts, well-versed in a variety of different fields, helped us to lay a solid foundation for our plan. For us, the biggest challenge was funding and financial projections. The SBDC not only guided us towards discovering other sources, but they also aided in the refinement of our idea, so we were better able to approach investors and present a clear picture of what we needed and what we were going to do. Always looking to adjust and pivot to stay on our course, we frequently refer back to that business plan to see where we’re at compared with where we expected ourselves to be. Also, another important thing we learned is to start small and let it all grow organically. Don’t lose sight of the big picture and burn yourself out trying to make your business everything you envisioned all at once. There is always room to grow and time to add more as you learn what your clientele likes. Pastry Arts

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Karen Krasne Owner, Extraordinary Desserts San Diego, California The Challenge of Opening a Shop The hardest part was going from baking and selling desserts from a home kitchen to a brick and mortar location with regulations, permits, overhead, customer service, and employees. It changes the way you approach the art of creating and baking in the kitchen. The ultimate success is to hone the business skills while still keeping the integrity of the product. I was fortunate to create a consistent demand from my part-time wholesale baking. It’s not something that happened overnight, so I had to be patient and learn how to expand into a full-time business.

Best Advice for Aspiring Shop Owners It’s important to continue working full-time in a day job while pursuing your passion in the side business. I would make sure that my work was being appreciated by more than just my friends and family, and that I was at a breaking point of doing both careers. That is when you know that it’s time to take the leap. 32

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Sherry Sobel A Cake In Time Bakery & Workshop Wading River, New York The Challenge of Opening a Shop The most challenging part was navigating the hundreds of details associated with owning your own business – lawyers, permits, estimating future and start-up costs, equipment and furniture purchases, recipe creation, and the dreaded loan process, to name a few.

Best Advice for Aspiring Shop Owners The best advice is to educate yourself. Surround yourself with a good support system – family, friends, professional contacts. Share your business plan with trusted contacts that can provide advice and guide you to the right professionals to help make the process as organized and transparent as possible. Knowing what to expect down the road will reinforce your decision to open your own place, or give you the knowledge to put it on hold until all the dominos are in place.

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Carrie Spindler Owner, GoodieBox Bake Shop Cliffside Park, New Jersey The Challenge of Opening a Shop

Best Advice for Aspiring Shop Owners

I think everyone in this industry will tell you it’s the money. People do not go into pastry and baking for the payout, but for the passion. They love creating things that bring people joy and comfort. However, the cost of outfitting a commercial space for food preparation is expensive. Ovens, mixers, and refrigeration are pricey on their own, but the infrastructure needed to even put this equipment in requires very expensive labor such as skilled and licensed electricians and plumbers. Given the amount of capital you will burn through just to open the doors, you’re going to need to be able to float the business a few months until you can hopefully get cash flowing to pay all your overhead.

My recommendation for those interested in this industry is to start by selling at a farmer’s market, share your cakes on social media, and entice people with your journey and they will support you. Let the pastry business be your side hustle until you can make it your full-time career. This approach should mitigate your risk as you will have built up a client base for future sales, while also allowing you to get a better grasp on the business side of baking. Once you have a firm grasp of what you are good at, what people will pay for it, and whether it can be a sustainable business, you will be in a better position to seek funding, be it from family, friends, or other prospective investors such as a bank or non-bank lender.

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Eleni Gianopulos CEO and Baker-in-Chief, Eleni’s New York New York, New York The Challenge of Opening a Shop When I first started, I was my only employee, then I hired one and then another, but there were still limitations that you wouldn’t normally come across in an up-and-running traditional office. If someone called out sick, that was 30% of my workforce, so it definitely made for some very long days and evenings. Cash flow was a constant struggle while looking to expand and grow. And while it was great being involved in every aspect of your business, you find yourself wearing every hat – sales, production, shipping, accounting, HR, etc.

Best Advice for Aspiring Shop Owners Look down the road for five years. Where and what do you want to be doing at that time? Will you be in the kitchen, running sales, using a co-packer or leasing a bakery of your own? Take the time to figure out what would feel best to you, and define success in several years and what success means to you, not to others. Once you know what you want, you will then be able to more clearly articulate your plan, and be able to get better help from others, as well.

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Trends

Savoring La Dolce Vita

From a chocolate waterfall to a Nutella jar doorway, vivid new Italian outposts open in New York By Meryle Evans

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ioccolati, cornetti, gelato, and other delectable dolce are luring Manhattanites to a trio of beguiling new Italian shops with convivial cafes and bountiful arrays of chocolate, baked goods, and frozen specialties.

Nutella Café, New York

Venchi, Nutella Café, and Princi Bakery arrived almost simultaneously last November, all in high-traffic locations, all corporate owned, and all showcasing Italy’s devotion to stylish design and an ambiance that blends tradition with innovation. With soaring spaces, picture windows, and imaginative wall décor, they have become instantly popular additions to Gotham’s well-established Italian venues, ranging from Sant Ambroeus boutiques to super-sized Eatalys. The three newcomers have already initiated other stateside forays. Nutella and Venchi have carved out corners within Eataly; Nutella and Princi recently opened Chicago stand-alone stores; and Princi, exclusive purveyor of baked goods at Starbucks Reserve Roasteries, is ensconced at Roasteries in Seattle, Chicago, and New York. Each is planning expansion to other areas, seeking lively sites similar to those already up and running. Pastry Arts

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Princi Bakery, New York

For the venerable 140-year-old Venchi’s first Manhattan venture, Paolo Della Mora, the company’s Business Development Director, scouted the city, settling on a former Steve Madden shoe store on Broadway and 18th Street just north of Union Square. A dramatic 10-foot-high and 45-foot-wide chocolate waterfall defines the space, the backdrop for a banquette seating area at the rear of the shop. According to Della Mora, it was a serendipitous solution for an awkward triangular area that had been a storeroom for the previous tenant, and provides a picturesque setting for customers who come to linger over their gelato, crepes, and hot chocolate. The 20 flavors of gelato, house-made daily with the company’s formula, are already well known to enthusiasts who have visited other Venchi shops, over 100 worldwide in 70 countries. The firm was founded by Silvano Venchi in 1878 in Piedmont, the cradle of Italian chocolate expertise, and home to the region’s top-quality hazelnuts. A stunning 38

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display of over 200 varieties of mix-and-match chocolates dominates another wall of the shop – colorfully wrapped cremino, gianduja, nougatine, and bars made with single origin Central American cacaos. At the counter a chocolate fountain dispenses Suprema, the Venchi brand olive oil-based chocolate hazelnut spread, to coat crepes and gelato.


A few blocks south, at 13th Street and University Place, the phenomenally popular Nutella welcomes its legions of fans at an easily recognizable entrance in the shape of the familiar jar. Aficionados flock to the airy, well-lit space to line up at a long counter for everything Nutella. You can create your own crepes, waffles or pancakes, opt for fruit-filled clafoutis, crème brûlée, or a chia seed parfait to be served tableside, or pick up Nutella-filled cookies, jars of the spread, gift boxes, and a Nutella cookbook to go. The ubiquitous spread is the heritage of Pietro Ferrero, a Piedmontese pastry shop owner who started making a thick hazelnut chocolate paste just after World War II, and his son Michele, who adjusted the recipe to a spreadable formula in 1961. Rebranded as Nutella, it was quickly acclaimed in Europe, and eventually around the world. Competitors abound, even nearby, with Max Brenner around the corner, and Blue Stripes Cocoa Shop recently opened by Oded Brenner, who created the Brenner chain, just a few doors away, all thriving in this chocolate-infused neighborhood. Venchi, New York

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Uptown at 51st and Broadway, in a 2,750-square-foot corner space, Princi welcomes a diverse clientele with chocolate brioche for breakfast, lunchtime soups, salads and foccacia/pizzas, afternoon aperitivos, and post-theater pastries. Founded by Milan baker Rocco Princi in 1986, the business has flourished, with satellites from London to Shanghai, and since 2016, a Starbucks affiliation. The design of the Broadway bakery was inspired by the Milan original: natural materials, earth colored stone, and a 20-foot curated wall displaying colorful ingredients like lemons, peppers and olives, all imported from Italy. Two large ovens are a focal point for fresh baking onsite throughout the day. Still a hands-on baker obsessed with sourcing top products, Princi’s vision, according to Erin Shane, Starbucks Senior Communications Manager, is to “encourage customers to take

Princi Bakery, New York

pause and enjoy their meal, and engage in a shared experience we call the ‘Spirit of Milan’ right here in New York City.” To achieve that atmosphere, there is a communal table seating 30, a coffee bar, and a bevy of “comessas”, bakers and servers wearing Spirito di Milano t-shirts, to relay the message. Soon they, along with Venchi and Nutella, will be spreading the word, and la bella vita, to other parts of the country.

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New & Notable

Bakon Classes Bakon USA, maker of industrial bakery equipment and commercial bakery machines, is presenting a series of professional baking ‘Masterclasses’ in collaboration with the Pastry Arts Academy at their showroom in Torrance, California. The classes are an opportunity for professionals to meet, exchange ideas, learn new skills and try Bakon equipment hands-on. Following are the upcoming classes: April 25-28, 2019: Patisserie Masterclass – B-Concept Method by Jordi Bordas June 12-15, 2019: Patisserie Masterclass by Cecile Farkas Moritel For more information on these classes, or to register, visit https://bakonusa.com/our-services/ training. 42

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New Filled and Frozen Eclairs ifiGOURMET launches their new Filled and Frozen Eclairs. Available in 9 flavors, the buttery, French eclairs are dipped by hand, using high-quality and all-natural ingredients. On a mission to find filled and frozen eclairs to add to their frozen product lineup for 2019, ifiGOURMET looked to their own supply of products and decided on their French éclair shells from Jean Ducourtieux, tantalizing flavor pastes from Dreidoppel, and the finest chocolate from CasaLuker to create these frozen eclairs. Flavor options include: Vanilla, Chocolate, Espresso, Chocolate Raspberry, Chocolate Peanut Butter, Peanut Butter and Jelly, Strawberries and Cream, Pistachio Mascarpone, and Bananas Foster. The thaw-and-serve eclairs have exceptional taste, will save you time, and can be eaten as they are, or used to create gourmet desserts. For more information regarding new Frozen and Filled Eclairs, please visit their website at ifigourmet.com.


Chefs Pfeiffer and Cannone Receive Coveted Award The USA chapter of the Académie Culinaire de France recently awarded the prestigious Fauteuil de l’Académie to Chefs Sebastien Canonne, M.O.F., and Jacquy Pfeiffer, cofounders of The French Pastry School in Chicago. The award is normally given to one chef annually as a recognition of his or her lifetime achievement. The award was presented at ACF’s annual grand meeting in New York City this past weekend. Founded in 1879, the Académie Culinaire de France is an assembly of over 1000 distinguished chefs and representatives of the food industry, including winemakers, sommeliers, restaurateurs and biologists. With the mission to “Share our Knowledge”, the Académie educates and coaches aspiring chefs to perform at their best and to compete internationally. The Académie authenticates new trends, food movements, or technology, and also pays close attention to the quality of food and health issues. Left to right: Chef JeanLouis Gerin (President, Académie Culinaire de France, USA Delegation), Chef Sylvain Leroy (Corporate Pastry Chef, Paris Gourmet), Chef Jacquy Pfeiffer (CoFounder, The French Pastry School), Anne-Claire Legendre (Consul General of France in New York), Chef Sebastien Canonne (Co-Founder, The French Pastry School), Chef Sebastien Baud (Chef de Cuisine, Consulat General of France in New York)

The prestigious Fauteuil de l’Académie award is given to chefs whose lifetime body of work will have a long-lasting impact on the food industry. Chefs Canonne and Pfeiffer received the honor for their commitment and dedication to educating current and future pastry chefs. Each year, the French Pastry School instructs over 1000 students through its full-time certificate programs in Pastry and Baking, Cake, and Bread; continuing education workshops; events; and community demonstrations. “We are very honored to receive these awards, as they validate our mission to ensure a continual supply of highly-trained chefs to the industry,” said Chef Canonne. “We are very proud of what we have accomplished these past 23 years at the school, and now embark on a new chapter through a partnership with Robert Morris University Illinois,” said Chef Pfeiffer. For more info on the French Pastry School, visit www.frenchpastryschool.com. Photo by Alan Bresson

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Vegan Meringue Powder and

Organic Sprinkles Meringue Shop recently introduced two breakthrough products for bakers: egg-free Meringue Powder and Organic Sprinkles. The Meringue Powder performs just like an egg-based meringue powder, without the additives, preservatives or artificial ingredients. Meringue Shop Meringue Powder is vegan and allergen friendly, free from dairy, nuts, gluten, soy and corn. Aquafaba, made from organic chickpeas, replaces the egg whites in the powder. This product produces a royal icing that is smooth, quick to dry and strong. The confetti-style Organic Sprinkles are vegan, kosher, and free of peanuts, tree nuts and gluten. They are wafer-thin, with just a hint of sweetness. The sprinkles are also colorfast – the plantbased colors from freeze-dried fruits and vegetables stay on the sprinkles and will not bleed into frostings, ice cream or glazes. For more info on these and other Meringue Shop products, visit www.meringueshop.com. 44

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Wedding Cake Lace by Chef Rudi Master Pastry Chef Rudi Weider’s impressive career spans more than 46 years, with highlights including baking for Presidents George H. W. Bush and Ronald Reagan. He spent many years as the Master Pastry Chef at the Hilton San Diego Bayfront, retiring last year. Now he is a pastry chef consultant, working with executive chefs across the country to enhance and streamline their pastry programs. He is also a sugar lace artist, and is producing the finest edible lace, in various intricate patterns, for wedding cakes. The labor-intensive lace is available in white, silver or gold, and can be airbrushed or brushed with luster dust. This beautiful sugarwork lace can be used on buttercream or fondant cakes, and will add a touch of elegance to just about any design. For more info on Chef Rudi’s consultation services or to purchase his lace, visit www. chefrudi.com.


Kerekes Easter

Kerekes (www.bakedeco.com), an excellent online source for cutting-edge pastry ingredients, equipment and recipes, has some great new Easter products available, including the following: The Martellato Thermoformed-Plastic Chocolate Egg Mold (#20U3D05) allows you to create beautiful swirled chocolate eggs. The set includes five pieces – two molds of the front egg, two molds of the back egg, and one mold with two cavities for the standing plate, allowing you to make two complete eggs. The mold will create chocolate eggs that measure 4 ½ inches in diameter by 7 ¼ inches high, each with a weight of approximately 310 grams. What would Easter be without big chocolate bunnies? Kerekes’s Big-Eared Rabbit is a two-piece polycarbonate chocolate mold that makes six solid rabbits that each measure 5 inches tall. Made in Europe of rigid, clear, polycarbonate plastic, this professionalgrade mold features beautiful detail, and is exceptionally sturdy. Overall size of the mold is 11 by 7 inches. Kerekes’s 12-inch Lamb Cake Mold will create an adorable 3D Easter cake and lots of holiday memories for your customers. This 46

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heavy-duty mold is made of durable cast aluminum in two pieces, and measures 12 inches front to back and 7 inches in height. Just fill it with your favorite pound cake recipe, bake and decorate.


The New Pie Dye-Free Desserts As more consumers seek out and request artificial-dye free and plant-based foods, ColorKitchen has announced it is now consulting with pastry chefs and other artisan food producers to incorporate plant-based, artificial dye-free colors into their desserts. The company, which manufactures colorful plant-based alternatives to traditional artificial food dyes and sprinkles, as well as glutenfree cake mixes, decided to expand into ‘food color consulting’ after receiving dozens of calls from chefs from small to midsize bakeries, ice cream and doughnut shops, as well as the cannabis industry, who have been seeking the company’s colors and sprinkles in bulk for commercial use. ColorKitchen’s food colors and sprinkles are made with natural and simple plant-based ingredients like turmeric, spirulina, beet, and annatto. In the process of making the dyes, flavors and textures are removed from the plant ingredients, leaving pure color behind. The company also recently introduced the baking industry’s first ‘dye-free, heat stable’ deep red velvet food color that won’t fade when it goes into the oven.

Married couple Chris Taylor and Paul Arguin share a profession and a passion – they are doctors by day, but spend all their free time competing in baking contests. Together they have won more than 500 ribbons for their pies and other baked goods, including Best of Show in the 2017 National Pie Championship. In their first book, The New Pie: Modern Techniques for the Classic American Dessert (Clarkson Potter, 2019; $30), the self-taught bakers show baking enthusiasts how to take their pies to the next level. Recipes range from spins on classic fruit pies, including Crazzberry, Spiced Apple Cider and Chocolate-Covered Cherry, to cream pies with modern flavors such as Thai Iced Tea and Root Beer and boozy pies like Strawberry Margarita with Salted Rim, Old Fashioned Cherry, and Bellini. There are also whimsical showpieces like Bubbling Butterbeer, Saturday Morning Cartoon Cereal, and Coffee and Doughnuts. The New Pie is a book that is bound to inspire dessert professionals as well as baking enthusiasts. Available from amazon.com and bookstores everywhere.

The easy-to-use food colorings come in a powder form for an extended shelf-life. Unlike liquid food colors, these will not dilute and water-down the recipe when more color is added. The colors and sprinkles can be added to dry ingredients, or readily mix into gummies, candies, added to baked goods, or for frosting treats. The colors are also gluten-free, soyfree, and non-GMO. For more info or to purchase, visit www.colorkitchenfoods.com. Pastry Arts

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Cover Story

Jen Yee

Following Her Palate & Instincts

By Brian Cazeneuve

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A

fter graduating from London’s Le Cordon Bleu in 2003, Pastry

Chef Jen Yee hit the ground running, launching her career at Gordon Ramsay’s Menu at The Connaught in London, followed by a position as opening team member of the modern Chinese tea salon, Yauatcha in Soho. In 2006 she returned to the States to become Pastry Sous Chef at Gilt inside New York City’s luxurious Palace Hotel. A few years later, Yee became Charlie Palmer’s Pastry Chef at Aureole, and then moved on to the 2 Michelin-starred SHO Shaun Hergatt downtown, where she was able to showcase her contemporary technique and style. In early 2013, Yee paired with Chef Andrew Carmellini to open his third restaurant in New York, the French inspired Lafayette Grand Café & Bakery. Her neatly executed desserts in the restaurant, as well as her whimsical takes on traditional patisserie in the café, garnered her three nominations from the James Beard Foundation for Outstanding Pastry Chef. Yee is now the Executive Pastry Chef for Lincoln Hopkins’ Resurgens Hospitality Group, with a focus on his flagship, Restaurant Eugene. Pastry Arts’ Brian Cazeneuve caught up with Yee in New York recently to find out a little bit more about her past, present and future.

The Q&A What made you want to pursue a career as a pastry chef? I think from a very young age, I knew I wanted to create things. Food, especially pastry, was an easy medium for me to play with even as a kid. I remember watching public television after school with my Uncle, and Great Chefs would be on. I would always look forward to the dessert segment at the end, but sometimes they would just make savory courses throughout the whole show. I remember feeling cheated during those episodes! Also, watching those shows gave me the realization that you can actually make pretty, sweet things for a living!

You studied architecture. Did that study help you at all in constructing or plating your desserts? I have a BFA in Interior Architecture, and some of the prerequisite classes were very art based; color theory, drawing, art and architectural history. I think this gave me a great foundation on which to build my dessert style (pun?). The one concept that has really stuck with me is balance, in terms of flavor, texture, temperature and color. Pastry Arts

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My intuition comes into play in both flavor and presentation.

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You’ve said you’re not always one for following recipes – you prefer to use your intuition. How so? Using recipes is great, and often necessary, in pastry. But what’s even more important is using your palate and instinct. A dish can be technically perfect, but if it doesn’t taste good, what’s the point? I think my intuition comes into play in both flavor and presentation. I want the flavors to pop and the food to look natural, with components that are familiar and surprising at the same time.

Where do your inspirations come from? Do you have to be in the kitchen to dream something up or can you be out on a walk, looking at a sunset, fiddling with an ingredient, that sort of thing? My inspiration can hit me when I’m lying in bed at night, hiking on my day off, surfing the web or just in the kitchen when our produce delivery arrives. And whether I’m working with a familiar or new ingredient, there are always ‘what if’ moments: ‘What if I did this to it?’ or ‘What if I paired this with that?’, etc.

by being the first one in and the last to leave. Nowadays, I average about 10 to 12 hours a day, but it’s broken up between time in the kitchen and time on the laptop or in meetings.

Do you get on a creative roll that keeps you in there until you drop, or do you go by the clock? If I’m on a roll, I definitely try to ride it out to completion. When the creativity bug bites, the last thing you are doing is looking at the clock! That’s the beautiful thing about pastry: if you put in the time, you will come out with tangible results (that you can eat!). Even if your experiment doesn’t quite hit the mark, that experiment can tell you right away what you could’ve done differently or what areas can be improved upon.

I used to be an absolute crazy person and work ridiculous hours.

At your busiest, how many hours are you in the kitchen? I used to be an absolute crazy person and work ridiculous hours. That, of course, was never going to last long, so over the years, I’ve found ways to be smarter with my time and to trust my team. I also think that back then, I was extremely insecure about my professional worth, so I tried to make up for it

Chocolate Silk Tart

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Apple Tart Carrot Cake with Kohlrabi Leaf Ice Cream

What savory dishes do you like? Does it influence your pastry making? It seems chefs are crossing the line more and more between savory and sweet preparations – is that accurate or fair? I like far too many savory dishes to list! And from so many different cuisines, as well. I think all food a chef experiences can inform their own work. Chefs and pastry chefs have been crossing over and borrowing from each other’s pantries for a long time. It’s really nothing new.

What’s the most underrated ingredient for a pastry chef? I’m glad to see more and more pastry chefs using alternatives to regular white refined sugar. Honey, maple, sorghum, cane, palm, date, rice, and more are out there to sweeten our sweets. 52

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And most importantly, all of these sweeteners can lend another layer of complexity and nuance to even our most basic preparations.

What’s your favorite dessert to eat at home? Cake. I love eating cake, and I’m certainly capable of keeping some in the house at all times, but I don’t, because I heard you’re not supposed to eat cake every day. So I substitute with ice cream on the days I can’t have cake.

What’s your most popular dessert? Second only to cake are cookies. I love cookies. And I serve my ‘Dream Cookie’ at Holeman & Finch in Atlanta. It really is my ultimate cookie, and it’s proven to be everyone else’s too! It’s baked fresh, and it’s chock full of Valrhona chocolate, pecans, coconut, oats and coffee.


I’m glad to see more and more pastry chefs using alternatives to regular white refined sugar. Pastry Arts

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Tell us about your experience of eating snake in Vietnam. How did that come about? I think the impetus for wanting to eat snake was a combination of watching an Anthony Bourdain episode, and reading in the local guidebook about a strip of restaurants in Hanoi that specialized in snake. We became friendly with our taxi motorcyclists, and asked them to take us to a snake restaurant. When we arrived, we were taken to the restaurant through the backyard, where we saw dogs in cages and snakes in baskets. When we sat down, we were presented with a live snake, which was quickly sliced open and drained of its blood and bile, which we drank. We proceeded to have about six to seven courses with different snake preparations. After that, our drivers took us bowling. Sunchoke & Milk Chocolate Mont Blanc

What’s an ingredient you haven’t worked with that you would like to? I would love the opportunity to spend a great deal of time working with all the varieties of a single fruit (or vegetable). For example, to be able to play with all the different types of quince from around the world, tasting their different characteristics and how they react to heat and other cooking methods.

Can you think of a food experiment you tried that didn’t work? When I first became a pastry chef, I was obsessed with making this blue cheese cheesecake dessert. I loved it, but no one around me did. Neither did Sam Sifton of The New York Times, who described it as “exactly like what you’d get if you mistakenly made a cheesecake with blue cheese.” Oh well. I wonder if I try again, whether the results may be different the second time around?

What’s your favorite restaurant, and your favorite dish there?

What’s an experiment or an ingredient that did work or gave you a ‘wow’ moment in the kitchen?

I think my favorite restaurant is La Tupina in Bordeaux, France. The food was great, but the experience even better, sitting outside in the middle of summer, with the atmosphere buzzing all around. My favorite dish was something very simple but so extraordinary – a rich duck broth served in a wine glass that was primed with Madeira from the 1800’s.

Last winter at Restaurant Eugene, we had an influx of beautiful kohlrabi come in from one of our farms. The bulbs came complete with their deep green tops, so I braised some of the leaves in olive oil, salt and pepper, and pureed them into an ice cream base. I paired the ice cream with citrus and meringue and the whole thing worked.

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You’ve been a show contestant and a judge. Did you enjoy it? Apart from the entertainment, do you think those shows are good for the industry? I think any show that brings exposure to an industry is good for that industry. I am, however, wary of how some shows may discount all the years of training needed to be really good at your craft.

If you could have one chef, alive or not, prepare you a meal, who would it be? And what would he or she make? If I could go back in time, I would love to experience one of the grand buffets created by Antoine Carême. Just the sheer opulence would blow my mind. And plus, I’m really into retro food and desserts, and this would be the ultimate.

Do you like the business part of the business? Does that ever get in the way of creativity?

When I first became a pastry chef, I was obsessed with making this blue cheese cheesecake dessert.

Sometimes the business informs the creativity and vice-versa. At the end of the day, we are here to provide a service to people, who in turn provide us with a certain level of creative freedom. Unless you have bottomless funds, there is always a balancing act of being creative and being practical and smart.

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Why do you think women in the industry are not recognized as often as men? (The chefs on the 2018 San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurant List were nearly all male, for instance.) Why is the industry not up to speed on this? Of all the kitchens I’ve worked in since 2001, the women outnumbered the men in just one of them. Even when the Executive Chef was a woman (Angela Hartnett at The Connaught), men dominated the roster. Before I became a pastry chef myself, only two out of my seven pastry bosses were women. The professional restaurant industry simply has a higher population of men – fact. Until we have an equal amount of men and women in the kitchen, I feel the representation will always tilt toward the 56

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guys. But that doesn’t mean that we as women can’t hold our own, and celebrate and support each other. Yes, I think we have to work harder to get our voices heard, but what else is new?

What will be the next frontier of the pastry world? I hope finding ways to be more environmentally responsible is on the to-do list. Using more naturally derived, less refined ingredients should be a priority. Photo Credits: Henri Hollis, Andrew Thomas Lee


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Classics

Irish Soda

Bread By Chef Susan Lagalle

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W St. Patrick’s Day always reminds me of working at The Ritz-Carlton, Boston. That Ol’ Grande Dame of Hotels, the original, on 15 Arlington Street. Every St. Patrick’s Day, the hotel would host a St. Patrick’s Day Breakfast with the mayor of Boston. For this event, our tiny pastry kitchen frantically provided over 500 attendees with loads of breads, scones, croissants, Danish, muffins, and the iconic Irish soda bread. Being an adventurous and ambitious pastry cook, I would volunteer to work overnight in preparation of this event. I had the task of firing all of the breakfast pastries starting at 2:00 in the morning. I also spent days in advance making round after round of traditional Irish soda bread. Or so I thought… Recently I delved into its history after an intriguing conversation with an Irish acquaintance. He remembers Irish soda bread as a sweet, rich bread filled with currants and caraway seeds. This is exactly the type I used to make back in my Ritz days. I was certain he was right but, nonetheless, research was in order. Is traditional Irish soda bread a

hether it’s called ‘Spotted Dog’, ‘Curnie Cake’, ‘Railway Cake’ or just plain ‘Soda Bread’, this sweet and simple bread is an Irish tradition

“tea cake” type bread like the one we both remember? No, but a similar product called ‘Spotted Dog’ is. Spotted Dog is the sweet version of Irish soda bread, made with loads of fruits, eggs, butter, and sugar. While all that sounds fantastic (except the name), it is not a true representation of ‘soda bread’ as was common in the emerald hills of Ireland by the early 1800’s. That more historic version of soda bread is made with only four ingredients: wheat flour, baking soda, salt, and buttermilk. It was a rustic loaf made not for guests, but as a hearty filler to go with supper. It dried out quickly, so it was made every other day in a cast iron pot called a bastible pot, which is similar to a Dutch oven, a staple in most Irish households. Because soft flour is typical in Ireland, breads with baking soda – that don’t rely on gluten development – were much easier to make than the traditional yeast-raised breads of Europe. Soda bread’s popularity skyrocketed in Ireland during the Potato Famine of the mid 1800’s, because soda bread is quick, filling, and inexpensive. Pastry Arts

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1

Scale all of the dry ingredients together with the exception of the raisins.

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2

Cut the cold butter into the dry ingredients until no large butter chunks are left. Add the egg and ‘buttermilk’ to the dry ingredients and mix until just combined. 3

So if traditional Irish soda bread is generally a plain loaf, how did it morph into such an iconic sweet treat? Every corner of Ireland has a different story that explains this transformation. One version is that the additions to soda bread just “went out of style” in Ireland, but stayed popular with Irish Americans. Then Irish Americans traveled back to Ireland to visit family and reintroduced these additions generations later. Another common story is based on a time when Ireland was mostly agricultural. When the men were working hard on the land, the women of the family would reward them with a richer version of soda bread by mixing in dried fruit, sugar, and an egg, if possible. This version of the bread resulted in a ‘sweet cake’ which had various names in different parts of the country: Spotted Dog, Curnie Cake or Railway Cake, to name a few. In my version, I have supplemented the basic white flour with some traditional Irish whole wheat flour, as well as some cornmeal. Irish whole wheat flour is a coarsely ground flour made of red whole wheat. It gives this bread a bit of heartiness that white flour lacks. Cornmeal is just a textural favorite of mine. I have added raisins as my fruit inclusion, but they can be switched to any other type of dried fruit. Caraway seeds add a quintessential flavor that I associate with soda bread, but they can be omitted if you don’t like their black licorice flavor. My homemade buttermilk, however, is essential. The additional fat in the whole milk used contributes to the perfect texture and crumb. While I don’t have a bastible pot handy in my kitchen, I do have a great old cast iron sauté pan that works just as well. I don’t find it necessary to cover my bread as it bakes, but this bread can be baked in a Dutch oven which will replicate the bastible pot. Pastry Arts

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4

Turn the dough onto a well-floured bench and dust liberally with bread flour.

Spotted Dog Yield: One 8” round, serving 12-16 • • • • • • • • • • • •

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276 g whole milk 21 g lemon juice 226 g unbleached bread flour 143 g Irish-style whole meal flour 73 g cornmeal 35 g granulated sugar 5 g baking soda 4 g salt 17 g caraway seeds 70 g cold unsalted butter, cut into chunks 58 g whole egg 100 g dark raisins

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On a well-floured surface, knead the dough slightly to make sure it holds together and then shape it into a loose round. 5


6

7

Place the round into the prepared pan and flatten to fit.

Cut a ½” deep cross into the dough.

• Melted butter, for brushing top (optional) 1. To make the ‘buttermilk’, mix the whole milk with the lemon juice and let sit at room temperature for 20 minutes. 2. Preheat the oven to 400˚F. Lightly grease an 8” cast iron skillet with vegetable oil. 3. Whisk the flours, cornmeal, sugar, baking soda, salt, and caraway seeds together. Cut the cold butter into the dry ingredients until no large butter chunks are left. Add the egg and the ‘buttermilk’ to the dry ingredients and mix until just combined, adding the raisins towards the end of the mixing process. (It is prudent to hold a bit of the ‘buttermilk’ back to see if you will need it all, as sometimes the dough can

be too wet.) If the dough is too crumbly, just add a bit more milk (or ‘buttermilk’ if you have extra made) to bring the dough together. 4. On a well-floured surface, knead the dough slightly to make sure it holds together and then shape it into a loose round. Place the round into the prepared pan and flatten to fit. Cut a ½” deep cross into the dough. Bake the bread for about 35 minutes, or until it is golden brown and a skewer comes out clean. 5. Remove the bread from the oven and immediately brush with melted butter (optional). After the bread is slightly cool, enjoy it with butter or preserves. Pastry Arts

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8

Remove the bread from the oven and immediately brush with melted butter (optional).

9

After the bread is slightly cool, enjoy it with butter or preserves.

Photo credit: Ciril Hitz

Chef Susan Lagalle is an associate instructor in the International Baking & Pastry Institute at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I. Previously the Executive Pastry Chef of TAJ Boston, she has also worked in a variety of restaurants and luxury hotels, including The RitzCarlton in both San Francisco and Boston. Chef Lagalle has attended professional classes by world renowned chefs such as Frank Haasnoot and Laurent Branlard. She is passionate about lifelong learning and passing her experiences to a new generation of pastry chefs. She is a graduate of the Johnson & Wales University’s baking and pastry arts baccalaureate program and the lead advisor to the program’s Pastry Arts Club. 64

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Profile

Peter Yuen World Traveler, Viennoiserie Expert & Pursuer of the Perfect Croissant By Tish Boyle 66

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hicago-based Pastry Chef Peter Yuen is known for his expertise in Viennoiserie – laminated doughs, in particular. In fact, he teaches lamination techniques at classes in culinary schools all over the world. He’s been to 28 countries in the past four years, including Kazakhstan, Singapore, Mainland China, Taiwan, Germany, France, Australia and Sweden. Chef Yuen recently took time out of his busy schedule to speak with us, reflecting on his early days in pastry, how he came to be obsessed with the perfect croissant, and what the next big trends might be in the world of Viennoiserie.

The Q&A When and how did you first get interested in pastry? Well, my father opened a bakery in Chicago in 1982, and I worked there since I was 12. I was always interested in lamination and played around with it a lot. Then, in 1996, I decided I wanted to go out on my own, and I opened a wholesale bakery business.

say, “Hey, we shipped your product down to Tampa, Florida.” And it would take two days to get down there, via truck, and I had no idea what the temperature of the truck was. So that was the big learning curve that hit me in the wholesale business. And I had to conquer it. Back then there were no computers to ‘Google’ things, and I really didn’t know what the hell I was doing.

Was that a success? No. I made a lot of mistakes. I was young and a little bit cocky and I thought I knew it all. The biggest mistakes I made had to do with the shelf life of the end product. I had been used to doing retail bakery sales my whole life and now, all of a sudden I’m doing wholesale, and this was a big change. I literally did not know when the customer would be eating my product, so I would get a phone call from the company that I had supplied product to, and they would Pastry Arts

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So I ended up calling the American Institute of Baking in Kansas, and I told them that I had a couple of problems and I asked if they could help me. And they were very nice and put me in touch with one of their instructors. The instructor asked me what product I was having the problem with, and I told him that I was doing a package of soft dozen dinner rolls, similar to Hawaiian rolls. So then he asked me if I had a problem putting in preservatives. So, I asked him about that, and he gave me the names of some preservatives I could use and told me to do some research on them to decide what I wanted to use. He also suggested I look at the packaged rolls at the supermarket and see 68

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what they were using for preservatives. I saw the majority of them used calcium propionate, which is an anti-molding agent. And you have to be careful about using it – you can only use a certain percentage of it in your dough, because too much of it can be harmful for human consumption. So then I asked him about my second problem. One of the biggest products I was selling was a chiffon cake, which we made into a filled roll with a buttercream filling. And we had it in different flavors and we would package it and then ship it out. So the instructor asked me if I knew about pH levels. So of course I didn’t, so he said, well, why don’t you go out and buy yourself a pH meter? A pH meter is a tool that you dip into your batter in order to check the pH level. And if you’re in a certain range, then you’re okay. But of course he also recommended another form of preservative that would work well in cakes. And another thing he recommended was putting an oxygen absorber into the packaging which would ensure that everything would be okay with the product until it was opened and exposed to oxygen. So that’s what I learned from that whole experience — about the shelf life of products. And ever since then, everything I do is observed with a little bit more about how to use no preservatives at all, but still be able to maximize the shelf life of a product. Instead of chemicals, now I am committed to using natural ingredients and processes to help extend shelf life of baked goods. One of the tricks I learned along the way was to add a little bit of the old dough to the new dough. Not only does this add flavor, but I also knew that adding old dough to new dough also adds shelf life to the product. The old dough contains a lot of deactivated yeast – yeast that has already died out – and this provides an environment that is acidic and that is not as friendly for mold to grow that quickly. So that’s something that I learned, and when I make croissants, not only do I want to make them delicious, but I want them to stay delicious for a longer period of time.


So what did you do once the wholesale bakery failed? Well, when I started my wholesale bread bakery business back in 1996, it was my intention actually to get out of the retail bakery business. I didn’t want to work for my dad, and I wanted to do my own thing in a way, so I took on a bank loan of $125,000 and I also discovered credit cards, and I ended up adding on another $50,000-plus to my debt. So, technically, I was about $200,000 in debt, which was not good. The story is that in 1997 when my wholesale business failed, I was forced to go back to work at my father’s retail bakery for about a year and a half. And during that period of time, I was doing my own pastry, and trying to learn what I could. I would watch Jacques Torres on

television and pick up some tips. I learned a lot from PBS cooking shows. There was one show called ‘Great Chefs’, where I saw Stanton Ho doing some amazing pastry, which inspired me. And one uneventful evening, I was browsing in the cooking section of a Barnes & Nobles bookstore, and came across a book called Grand Finales – your book! That was a real revelation to me — I was shocked to see that pastry chefs would get so much recognition! That was the moment that turned me into a true pastry fan. I also read Pastry Art & Design magazine, where I saw a feature on Jacquy Pfeiffer and Sebastien Cannone, who had just opened the French Pastry School in Chicago. So I called Jacquy and he answered the phone and told me the classes started the following week. So I decided to add on another $13,000 to my debt and go to the French Pastry School.

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Creating demand and smart marketing is definitely part of having a successful bakery business.

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And where did you work after you graduated? Well, Jacquy Pfeiffer introduced me to Keegan Gerhard, who had just gotten the job as Pastry Chef at the Four Seasons in Chicago, and I became his first hire. So I was the highestranking Pastry Cook possible there before you become an Assistant Pastry Chef. So I worked for about a year with Keegan that way, and then I realized that I wasn’t making enough money to cover my loan payments. So I had to get another job, which turned out to be a full-time job at the Sofitel Chicago Magnificent Mile -- they were about to open, and they were hiring a baker. So for two years I was very much immersed in pastry making. I was the Head Baker at the Sofitel. At the Four Seasons, however, they had a full-time baker. Keegan would occasionally ask me to take over for the Four Seasons baker when he was off. Once the baker at the Four Seasons was on vacation and I took over as the overnight baker for about a week. One day the Executive Sous Chef came in to talk to me and he said, “Peter, you’re doing a great job, but we can’t have you doing it at this level.” I said, “Huh?” He said the problem was that their baker, who was coming back in a few days, wouldn’t be able to do what I was doing. “What you’re doing is at a much higher level than he is capable of.” So he basically asked me to dial it down a little bit. Before I was hired, the French guys working there actually gave me a few little secret tests

to see if I was up to the job. One day they said to me that the hotel was doing a promotion where they were giving away breakfast to taxi drivers in the city. So since I was applying for the position of Head Baker, they wanted me to handle the breakfasts. So I had three days to do this -- somehow I was able to schedule myself so that I had a day off from the Four Seasons to work on this. I was able to pump out about 1,000 croissants, about 800 pain au chocolat and about 1,000 danishes for the taxi drivers that day, all by myself in three days. So I passed my test! And I got the job at the Sofitel as Head Baker, which actually paid more than the Four Seasons job did for a pastry cook. In 2004, I took over my father’s bakery. It was not my idea to buy the bakery in the first place, but a lot of other family members at the time said to me, “Come on, you’re the only son, you should take charge of the bakery.” I had this fear then, because in the Chinese culture, when something is passed down to you, you better not screw it up, and that’s basically why I didn’t want it. But my dad gave me a really good deal on the place, so I said okay. I called it ‘La Patisserie P’. Everyone thinks the ‘P’ is for Peter, but actually it’s for ‘passion’, as in ‘a passion for pastry’. Pastry Arts

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How did you get so focused on laminated doughs? Well, one reason had to do with Yves Thuries, the double M.O.F., who came to stay at the Sofitel while I was working there. I was off when he came, but evidently after he ate the breakfast pastry that morning, he came back to the kitchen to meet me, but I wasn’t there. He had eaten one of my croissants, and he was so impressed that he came wanted to congratulate the baker for doing such a good job on it. In fact, he told someone at the hotel that they were so lucky to have hired a French baker. And he said it was the best croissant that he had had outside of Paris, ever. This came to me straight from the general manager who had been hanging out with him that night. So that really motivated me. The other thing that motivated me was back around the time

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I graduated from the French Pastry School, Jacquy Pfeiffer gave me two pieces of advice: The first one was to be humble. (I guess I was a little bit too cocky.) He also told me to find my niche. He said, “Don’t try to be a jack-ofall-trades.” And of course I said, “But Chef, I’m good at everything, isn’t that a good thing?” And he said, “Yeah, but you’re going to be one of hundreds of thousands of chefs who want to be good at everything. And no one will remember you.” So when Yves Thuries complimented me on my croissants, I immediately remembered this advice and realized I had found my niche – laminated products, particularly croissants, were my specialty!

I like to control the direction of all layers on my laminated baked goods.


Do you have to be good at math to understand laminated doughs? I think so! Back in college, I majored in electrical engineering and minored in architecture for the first two years. I find that by using mathematics I can explain almost everything. About five years ago, I finally developed my Universal Number System, which uses numbers to calculate and manage the lamination process during production. It gives the operator more accountability, especially when it comes to doing formulation and creating new products. But don’t worry too much – baking is not rocket science. Good math only makes good sense!

knowledge or experience to pull off their dream of becoming a bakery owner. So I help many of them by counseling them to make the right decisions. I train them one-on-one on the essential skills, and even help with menu planning. Other jobs involve training bakers for luxury hotel chains. There are some places that I have never thought I would have a chance to go to!

What are the most common problems that you see with croissants? I recently rated the croissant as one of the three most difficult bread products to make. This is due to their complexity in three major areas: 30% on lamination to create layers; 30% in aesthetic presentation; and 40% in choice of ingredients / mixing / proofing / baking. The most common problem with making croissants is not having an environment that’s the right temperature. Almost all aspects within the process of making croissants are controlled by the environment. If your kitchen is too warm, then lamination, shaping and proofing the croissants will be impossible to complete correctly.

You teach lamination in classes at culinary schools all over the world. Do you also do consulting for private bakeries? Yes, for the most part, I have been consulting new bakery owners in getting the right skills to start a business. There are many entrepreneur wannabees out there. But many lack the Pastry Arts

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Exotic patterned croissants are extremely popular right now. What are some types you do? Now I must say, I was not the first to come up with bi-colored croissant. So I tried to do the next best thing, by introducing designer patterns to the making of ordinary croissants. The first exotic pattern was the leopard skin. This was followed by the tiger stripe croissant. After that, I started doing wood grain patterns, and they became very popular. Eventually I went back to different layer presentations. I guess I am a bit of control freak! I like to control the direction of all layers on my laminated baked goods.

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What other Viennoiserie are trendy? That is the REAL million dollar question – everyone is trying to come up with the best answer for this! Let’s see – within the last six years, the marketplace has seen: the Cronut! The Croffin! And the Croclair! Also many multicolor croissants with imaginative fillings. The list goes on and on! I don’t think I need to invent the wheel too much right now, but you can see from the Cronut – there were people who were doing things just like it – frying laminated dough – years and years before the Cronut debuted. But what Dominique Ansel did was, he added a filling, and dressed it up like a gourmet donut. And he did a great job of marketing it. And he’s in the middle of New York City, which is a gigantic market, so by word of mouth, everybody knew about the Cronut very quickly. And he was smart because he would sell out of them — he created a shortage, which made people more determined than ever to go back and get one. And it’s the same thing with this hot bakery called Lune in Melbourne, Australia, which has been named the #1 laminated Viennoiserie shop in the world. And everybody who comes through the door can only buy six items. And they’re not cheap either — one almond croissant is 11 Australian dollars. So that’s about eight U.S. dollars for a croissant. A pistachio croissant is 13 Australian dollars, which is about 10 U.S. dollars. It’s insane! And because you can only buy six pieces, everybody buys six pieces. And when you have over 200 people each day and everybody’s buying six pieces, they’re making a lot of money. So creating demand and smart marketing is definitely part of having a successful bakery business.


Almost all aspects within the process of making croissants are controlled by the environment. If your kitchen is too warm, then lamination, shaping and proofing the croissants will be impossible to complete correctly. Pastry Arts

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I think we will see some good new working tools to help bakers create interesting shapes in Viennoiserie. What are some of the future trends you see on the horizon in Viennoiserie and pastry in general? I guess I must answer this question. I think in general, we will be seeing new and interesting baking molds for Viennoiserie products. Just like mousse cakes, both large entremets and petits gateau, with the use of some fancy designed silicone molds. With these products, everyone can create beautiful Viennoiserie products. Also, I think we will see some good new working tools to help bakers create interesting shapes in Viennoiserie. I am on top of both of these trends – it could be my second career after being a baker! 76

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Photos Courtesy of Compote Pastry School & Taken by Jerome Flayosc @g_rom.photo


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Recipe

Warm Apple Pomegranate Tart Vanilla Crème FraÎche Gelato By Deborah Racicot

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I

love this dessert because it plays with two different textures and temperatures. The tart is warm, while all the toppings are cool, fresh and uncooked. And it’s served with a classic flavor, vanilla. My sous chef and I came up with the idea of it as a riff on a caramel apple, with the apple layer on the bottom and the caramel custard on top. Yield: 12 tarts

Almond Sucré

• • • • • • •

280 g 10X confectioners’ sugar 453 g cold unsalted butter, diced 3 large whole eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract ⅛ tsp salt 705 g all-purpose flour 112 g almond flour

1. In a mixing bowl with the paddle attachment, mix together the 10X sugar, and cold diced butter. Cream the mixture very well until soft and creamy, scraping the sides down occasionally. Add the eggs, vanilla and salt to the butter mixture and cream it again until completely incorporated, and very smooth and shiny, scraping down the bowl occasionally to make sure everything is incorporated. 2. Add the flours and slowly mix until blended, then scrape the bowl down and mix on medium speed until super-soft and mixed well. Place the dough onto a parchment-lined sheet tray and wrap with plastic wrap. Allow to chill overnight, or at least 5 hours, until dough is firm and set. 3. Once the dough is completely chilled, roll it out on a lightly floured surface to a thickness of 1.5 mm. Cut into 6” diameter disks. Line 12 #100 tart rings and refrigerator the unbaked shells for 1 hour to rest the dough. 4. Bake the shells at 3250F on high fan, for approximately 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

Baked Caramel Filling • • • • • • •

750 g heavy cream, divided 24 g all-purpose flour 675 g granulated sugar 170 g unsalted butter 6 large whole eggs 3 large egg yolks 9 g salt

1. In a bowl, mix half of the cream with the flour; set aside. 2. In a large pot, make a dry caramel with the sugar. Once the sugar has completely caramelized to a golden color, add the butter and stir to emulsify the mixture. 3. Add the remaining 375 g heavy cream (the part without the flour) to the caramel. Once emulsified, add the cream and flour mixture and mix well. Cool in a bain marie in an ice bath. 4. Once the mixture is cool, add the eggs, yolks and salt. Mix well, then strain through a chinois. Set the mixture aside. (It can be made up to 3 days ahead.)

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Apple Compote • 6-8 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cored, scraps reserved • 68 g light brown sugar • 68 g granulated sugar • 2 g ground cinnamon • 2 g ground cardamom • 2 g ground ginger • 2 g salt • 14 g cornstarch • 1.5 g citric acid 1. Dice the apples small, about ¼”, and weigh out 800g of the diced apples. 2. In a bowl, toss the 800 g apples with the sugars and spices. Allow them to macerate for 24 hours. 3. The next day, place the apples in a medium-sized pot, and cook them on low heat until al dente. Make a slurry with the cornstarch and pour it into the apples and cook them until the starch cooks out. Add the citric acid and stir well. 4. Pour the apples out onto a sheet pan lined with parchment and cool completely. Set aside. (This can be made up to 3 days in advance.)

Vanilla Crème Fraîche Gelato • • • • • • • • • • • •

832 g whole milk 166 g heavy cream 332 g crème fraîche 1 vanilla bean 184 g vanilla sugar 4 g ice cream stabilizer 90 g dry milk powder 150 g dry glucose 66 g liquid glucose 150 g whole eggs 32 g trimoline ⅛ tsp salt

1. Place milk, heavy cream, crème fraîche and scraped vanilla bean into a pot. 80

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2. Mix together the sugar and ice cream stabilizer. Add to the cream mixture along with the milk powder, dry glucose and liquid glucose. Bring to a soft simmer. 3. In a bowl, mix the whole eggs with the trimoline and salt. Temper into the cream mixture and cook, using the anglaise method, to 180˚F. Pour into a bain marie, and cool completely in ice bath. 4. Allow base to chill for 24 hours to age. The next day, strain, and spin.

Apple Puree • Reserved apple scraps from above 1. Place the reserved apple scraps in a pot with just a bare minimum of water and cook until tender. Blend well until very smooth, then pass through a chinois.


Apple Pomegranate Sauce • • • • • •

250 g Apple Puree (from above) 250 g Pom Wonderful juice (concentrate) 75 g granulated sugar 20 g cornstarch 1 g citric acid 1 g salt

1. Place the puree, Pom juice, sugar and cornstarch in a pot, and cook until thickened. Add the citric acid and salt and stir to combine. Cool on ice, and set aside until ready to use.

Assembly 1. Preheat oven to 3000F 2. Put 40 g of the Apple Compote in each baked tart shell, then pour the Baked

Caramel Filling on to fill shells. Bake with fan on high for 10-15 minutes, or until set. Cool completely.

Meringue Topping • 100 g fresh egg whites • 150 g granulated sugar 1. Place the whites and sugar in a mixing bowl, and cook over simmering water until mixture reaches160˚F. 2. Put the bowl on the mixer stand fitted with the whip attachment, and whip on high speed until completely cool. 3. Using a #803 plain piping tip, pipe the meringue on top of the tarts, piping 6 dollops on the outside, and 3 on the inside. Lightly torch it to golden brown. Set aside.

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To serve • • • • •

2 Honeycrisp apples Pinch of ascorbic acid 1 pomegranate Micro hyssop leaves Ground tart crumbs

1. Peel the apples and, using a #18-21 melon baller, scoop the apple to make spheres. Place them in a solution of water and ascorbic acid so that they don’t oxidize. (If you don’t have ascorbic acid, you can use purchased apple juice in place of the mixture.) 2. Pick the seeds out of the pomegranate and set aside. 3. Place a tart on the plate, and garnish the top of the tart with fresh apple spheres, a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds, and micro hyssop leaves. 4. Pour a dot of the sauce the size of a silver dollar onto the plate, sprinkle with ground up tart crumbs, and a scoop of the Vanilla Crème Fraîche Gelato.

Deborah Racicot

Executive Pastry Chef, Locanda Verde Restaurant, New York, NY

Early Influence

I had many – Julia Child, Wok with Yan (television show), Chocolatier Magazine, Bon Appetit Magazine.

Signature Style

Seasonal, simple, elegant and memory driven.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert Tiramisú.

Inspiration for New Recipes

Meeting new people from different cultures – I am introduced to new flavors which is always inspiring, and this leads me to creating new desserts that are familiar, but new.

Pastry Idol

I have so many pastry chefs that I truly admire in the industry, that it is so hard to say. At this point in my career, I love to continue to learn from all, and see what new ideas are always being brought to the table to work with.

Best Career Advice

You should be willing to go above and beyond the job expectations. This is how you are going to become better than the rest. It is always about the details. Be that team player, be positive, and remain passionate. Do not allow yourself to become dispensable. This is what will make you different and allows you to move forward in your career. 82

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A BIGGER EVENT, A BETTER WAY TO PERFECT YOUR CRAFT IBIE 2019 is custom-made for artisan and retail bakers, with expanded offerings that feed your passion and creativity in a growing market. The event is a marketplace of healthy ingredients, innovative products, curated competitions, staged demonstrations from celebrity chefs and Certified Master Bakers and much more. IBIE delivers a bigger opportunity to master your craft and a broader selection of options to produce high-quality, high-flavor goods that your customers love. EDUCATION: SEPT. 7-11, 2019 | EXPO HALL: SEPT. 8-11, 2019 LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER

REGISTER TODAY AT WWW.IBIE2019.COM Supported by:


Recipe

Citrus

Pavlova By Angel R. Betancourt

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avlova has to be one of my very favorite desserts to eat and make. It’s simple yet fragile. I always research desserts I want to make and when I discovered that pavlova was named after a ballerina, my creative mind could not stop thinking about how perfect the name is. Pavlova is delicate, beautiful, stylish and feminine, but was she married? So, I came up with a veil made of passion fruit to finish a fantasy dessert. Yield: 4 servings

Pavlova • • • •

120 g egg whites 200 g confectioners’ sugar 15 g white vinegar 10 g cornstarch

1. Whip the egg whites, adding the confectioners’ sugar in three additions and whipping until stiff peaks form. Add the white vinegar and fold in the cornstarch. 2. Spread on Silpat and bake at 200˚F for 5060 minutes.

Lime-Yuzu Cream • • • • •

205 g lime juice 100 g yuzu juice 433 g granulated sugar 333 g whole eggs 605 g cold butter, diced

1. Mix lime and yuzu juice, sugar and eggs. Heat in a double boiler, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it starts to thicken and the mix covers the back of the spoon. With the help of a hand blender, add the diced cold butter, and mix until smooth.

Passion Fruit Espuma • • • • •

250 g passion fruit puree 150 g granulated sugar 50 g water 5 g Versawhip 600k 4 g xanthan gum

1. Pour the puree, sugar and water into the jar of a Vitamix blender. Blend on high speed for 1 minute, then add the Versawhip and xanthan gum and blend on high speed once again. 2. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer and, using the whisk attachment, whip on high speed until stiff peaks form.

Mango Fluid Gel • • • •

150 g granulated sugar 5 g agar agar 500 g mango puree 2 g citric acid

1. Mix sugar and agar agar together. Add the sugar mixture to the mango puree and bring to a boil. Boil for 30 seconds and remove from heat. Pour the mix onto a clean sheet pan and let set in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. 2. Process in a Vita-Prep with the citric acid. Pastry Arts

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Coconut Oil Powder • • • •

120 g coconut oil 80 g maltodextrin 10 g anti-humidity snow sugar 2 g fine salt

1. Place coconut oil, maltodextrin, snow sugar and salt into a Robot Coupe and process until it resembles snow or sand.

Plating • • • •

Diced fresh pineapple Diced kiwi Edible flowers Micro greens

1. Pipe the Lime-Yuzu Cream on the plate and cover with broken pieces of the Pavlova. 2. Pipe the Mango Foam and Mango Fluid Gel on top, and add diced fresh pineapple and kiwi. Decorate with flowers and micro greens.

Angel R. Betancourt

Executive Pastry Chef, The Ocean Club, a Four Seasons Resort, and Dune By Jean Georges, Nassau, Grand Bahama, Bahamas

Early Influence

My mom! And a Sesame Street cookbook when I was a kid. Later, Chocolate Fusion by Frederic Bau was my cooking bible.

Signature Style No rules.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert

I love tarts. Also, my mom used to do a grape jam that I would spread on everything – now I make it and it brings me home.

Inspiration for New Recipes

Inspiration is everywhere, from nature to paintings and books.

Pastry Idol

Albert Adria and Carles Mampel.

Best Career Advice

Cook without ingredients – cook in your head. Learn all your basic rules and then be free and break them all! 86

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SPEAKERS

Ron-Ben Israel

Francisco Migoya

Jim Lahey

Jacques Torres

Emily Luchetti

Miro Uskokovic

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CHARITY PARTNER

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Recipe

Coconut Matcha By Robert Nieto

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hile planning this dessert, I looked at what was in season and what would pair well with coconut and matcha flavors. I saw Meyer lemon and huckleberry and thought they would be a perfect match. The flavor components balance out well and are the perfect combination of creaminess, acidity, and earthiness. Yield: 4-6 servings

Huckleberry Jam

Meyer Lemon Curd • • • • •

150 g Meyer lemon juice 60 g granulated sugar, divided 50 g whole egg 20 g egg yolk 0.75 g citric acid

1. In a small pot, combine lemon juice and half of the sugar and bring to boil. 2. Mix egg, egg yolk, and remaining sugar in a small bowl. 3. Temper the yolk mixture into the lemon juice mixture and cook until thickened. Strain. Pipe into 1” sphere Fleximolds. Freeze.

Coconut Cream • • • • •

425 g heavy cream 70 g coconut macaroons, toasted 1 sheet gelatin, bronze, bloomed 120 g white chocolate 1 g salt

1. Bring cream to a boil. Stir in coconut macaroons and infuse for 20 minutes. 2. Bring infusion back to a simmer. Stir in drained gelatin. Strain over chocolate and mix until homogenous. Chill for a few hours. 3. Whip the cream to soft-medium peaks. Reserve in refrigerator.

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40 g granulated sugar 1.5 g apple pectin 150 g huckleberries 75 g water 2 g citric acid

1. Combine the sugar and pectin and set aside. 2. Heat the berries, water and citric acid over low heat. Stir in the sugar-pectin mixture and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Reserve the jam until needed.

Brown Butter Financier • • • • • •

100 g granulated sugar 50 g almond flour 33 g brown rice flour 83 g egg whites 83 g browned butter 1 g salt

1. Place dry ingredients in mixer on low speed. Add the egg whites, then add the butter in a slow stream, mixing until combined. 2. Spread the mixture on a sprayed and lined 1/8 sheet pan. Bake at 320˚F for 6 minutes. Cool. Chill for 20 minutes. 3. Cut into 2” rounds. Reserve until needed. Pastry Arts

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Matcha Shortbread • • • • •

250 g unsalted butter 75 g confectioners’ sugar 2 g salt 250 g all-purpose flour 20 g matcha powder

1. Cream the butter until soft. Stir in the confectioners’ sugar and salt. Add flour and matcha powder and mix. 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a rectangle form to 1/8” thickness. Using a wheel cutter and ruler, cut out 4” squares. 3. Place dough on a half sheet pan that has been sprayed and lined. Freeze for 20 minutes. 4. Bake at 325˚F for 6-8 minutes. Chill before serving.

Chocolate Shells • Colored cocoa butter in Alabaster White, Tropical Green and Indigo Blue • Cacao Barry Blanc Satin chocolate, tempered 1. Brush a streak of the colored cocoa butters into six 3” spheres of a polycarbonate chocolate mold and allow to set for a few minutes. Fill shells with chocolate, then invert to remove excess. Reinvert and allow to set.

Assembly • Indigo blue chocolate disc garnish • Micro flowers 1. Unmold chocolate shells and invert. Pipe a small amount of Coconut Cream in bottom. Place Meyer Lemon Curd insert on top. Pipe Coconut Cream on top. Spoon or pipe jam on top. Pipe on another layer of coconut cream. Place 2” round financier on top to cover. Invert and sphere on top of matcha shortbread. Decorate with indigo blue chocolate disc and micro flowers. 90

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Robert “Buttercup” Nieto

Pastry Chef, Jackson Family Wines, Santa Rosa, CA

Early Influence

When I was young, I watched ‘Great Chefs’ and was heavily influenced by watching the professional chefs working their craft. When I saw the episode with Master Pastry Chef Chris Northmore, I knew I wanted to do pastries.

Signature Style

My style has evolved to ‘classic with a modern twist’, although I’m sure it will continue to change.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert German Chocolate Cake.

Inspiration for New Recipes

I get my inspiration for new recipes from the seasonal ingredients in our garden at Kendall Jackson Winery. I like to walk through the gardens to get ideas and inspiration.

Pastry Idol

Too many to list! I admire everyone’s hard work and craft. I love looking at other chef’s work and creations.

Best Career Advice

Work hard and learn the basics. Practice it and master it! I would also recommend learning savory as well as pastry to help you become more well-rounded. It will also help for cross-referencing later in your career.

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Recipe

Chocolate

Pistachio Bar By Renee Cade 92

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ark chocolate and pistachio have always been some of my favorite components in desserts. I wanted to create a petit four that encompasses the fresh, nutty and subtle fruity flavor of the pistachio and the robust and smooth flavor of the TCHO 81% dark chocolate. This petit four pairs well with wines, cocktails and coffee. Yield: 45 petit four bars

Pate Sucrée • • • • •

295 g unsalted butter 340 g granulated sugar 2 large eggs 10 ml vanilla extract 970 g bread flour, sifted

1. Cream the butter and granulated sugar together. 2. Add eggs slowly. 3. Add vanilla extract. 4. Add sifted bread flour in thirds. 5. Chill the dough and let rest for at least 2 hours. 6. When ready, sheet the dough to 3 and line a half sheet pan with dough, including the sides. Lightly dock and par-bake in a 350˚F oven, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Pistachio Bar • 190 g unsalted butter • 82 g granulated sugar

• • • •

190 g whole eggs 190 g almond or pistachio flour 32 g all-purpose flour 250 g pistachio paste

1. Cream the butter and granulated sugar together. 2. Add a little of the eggs first, then alternate adding the eggs and the dry ingredients (almond flour and all- purpose flour) to the creamed butter and granulated sugar. 3. Add the pistachio paste last. 4. Pour mixture into the par-baked sweet dough tart shell in the sheet pan and smooth with an offset spatula to level the pistachio bar mixture. 5. Bake at 350˚F for approximately 25 minutes. Cool and freeze until ready to use.

81% TCHO Chocolate Mousse • • • •

400 g 81% TCHO chocolate 285 g egg yolks 197 g granulated sugar 900 g heavy cream Pastry Arts

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1. Melt 81% TCHO chocolate hexagons in a double boiler. 2. Begin beating egg yolks with a whip attachment in the electric mixer. Make a sugar syrup with the sugar and some water and cook to 250˚F. Immediately pour over the egg yolks in a steady stream, beating continuously until the egg mixture doubles and cools. 3. In a mixing bowl, whip heavy cream to soft peaks. Set aside until ready to use. 4. Fold in chocolate into the egg mixture. 5. Gently fold whipped cream into the egg and chocolate mixture. (Mousse should be creamy.) Set in the cooler until ready to pipe.

Garnish • Pistachio nuts, shelled • Sea salt • 81% TCHO chocolate 1. Toast pistachios with sea salt and chop. 2. Temper 81% TCHO chocolate and, using a piping bag, create a delicate, lattice-like pattern on a large acetate sheet. Sprinkle the chopped roasted sea salt pistachio before the chocolate sets.

Final Assembly • Powdered snow • 100 g TCHO Drinking Chocolate Crumbles 1. Cut the pistachio bar into 2.5 cm x 5 cm rectangles. 2. Use a straight edge and dust a quarter of the bar with powdered snow. 3. Pipe the 81% TCHO Chocolate Mousse with a flat tip on top of the pistachio bar. Break a piece of the chocolate lattice and place on the chocolate mousse at an angle. Finish with sprinkling TCHO drinking chocolate crumbles on the chocolate mousse. 94

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Renee Cade

Regional Sales Manager, Foodservice, TCHO, Berkeley, California

Early Influence

Baking chocolate crinkles with my mother at a young age. I was enamored by her ability to keep the powdery sugar portions of the cookie so clean and white and all the sizes of the cookies consistent and delicious!

Signature Style

Generally, modern twists on classics – clean lines, not too fussy, but with an unexpected element in the dessert – whether it’s a flavor component or in the visual presentation itself.

Favorite Down-Home Dessert

An Okinawan doughnut called Sata Andagi – a seemingly simple doughnut, but difficult to perfect. It’s a childhood favorite of mine.

Inspiration for New Recipes

Traveling, visiting museums and walking the farmers’ market always make me think of ways to express flavors in different forms.

Pastry Idol

My mentor, Executive Pastry Chef Roy Pell at the Phoenician in Arizona. Roy was tough, but always supportive in anything I pursued.

Best Career Advice

Keep at it. It’s always a bonus when you receive critiques, because it means you have shown potential to become better at your craft. Pastry Arts

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Technique

Freeform Blood Orange SoufflĂŠ With Cardamom, Honey & Ancho

By Scott Geurin, CEC, and Derek Bissonnette Photography by Derek Bissonnette

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he inspiration behind this unique soufflé is the sweet and tart citrus flavors that we savor to bridge the passage from Winter into Spring. Like the changing of seasons, this dish transitions between richer flavors such as cardamom, chocolate and ancho, to brighter seasonal flavors of honey and blood orange. Using the ingredients at Modernist Pantry, we set forth a challenge to prepare a soufflé that could be served without the aid of its traditional serving vessel – the ramekin. The secret technique is to stabilize the egg whites using Versawhip, a modern ingredient with its base in soy protein. The reinforced soufflé was able to rise with strong enough walls to allow us to unmold it and be completely free formed. We also wanted to use a head-to- tail approach, as in many recipes that savory chefs prepare. So we candied the Blood Orange Peel and prepared recipes that added great depth of flavor and texture, with zero waste. Yield: 8 servings Special Equipment: Immersion circulator, Pacojet

Compressed Cardamom Chocolate Cake • • • • • • • • •

105 g eggs (2 large eggs) 300 g granulated sugar 115 g vegetable oil 70 g cocoa powder (high quality) 165 g all-purpose flour 6 g baking powder 4 g ground cardamom 105 g heavy cream 200 g whole milk

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Whisk the eggs, sugar and vegetable oil in a stand mixer on medium speed. 3. Whisk for 10 minutes, or until sugar is dissolved and mixture is nice, white, and creamy.

4. Combine the cocoa powder, flour, baking powder, and cardamom and sieve. 5. Combine the heavy cream and milk together. 6. Alternately add the dry and liquid to the whipped eggs until all combined. [1, 2] 7. Place mixture into a parchment-lined ½ sheet tray [3] and bake for 10-12 minutes, or until a toothpick can be inserted, and it comes out clean and cool. 8. Once cooled, cut the cake to fit into a vacuum seal bag. Sandwich the chocolate cake between two pieces of parchment paper and slide the cake into the vacuum bag. Vacuum seal the cake on high to compress. [4] 9. Remove the cake from the bag and peel off the parchment paper. 10. Cut out rounds with a 3” ring cutter [5] and set aside. Pastry Arts

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Blood Orange Soufflé

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Soufflé Base • 500 g blood orange juice, freshly squeezed (approximately 20 blood oranges; save peel for sherbet) • 40 g cornstarch Soufflé • 360 g egg whites • 8 g Modernist Pantry Versawhip* • 240 g granulated sugar • 20 Orange Flavor Drops* • 8 rounds Compressed Cardamom Chocolate Cake (from above) • 226 g unsalted butter, room temperature • 50 g cornstarch 1. In a heavy bottomed, medium pan, combine the cornstarch and blood orange juice and whisk until smooth. [6] 2. Place on medium heat and whisk until it simmers. Cook for an additional 2 minutes. [7, 8]

*Ingredients found at modernistpantry.com 8

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3. Remove from heat and place mixture into a bowl to cool. Cover the mixture with plastic wrap. Press the plastic wrap directly onto the blood orange base to make sure it does not form a skin. [9] (This base can be stored and used for 3 days – it will make about 3 batches.) 4. To make the cornstarch coating for the paper ramekins, simply cream together the butter and corn starch for 5 minutes, or until smooth and light in color. 5. Preheat convection oven to 350°F. 9

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6. On a very low speed in a stand mixer, whisk the egg whites and the Versawhip. It’s important to start slowly to create small, uniform, sturdy air bubbles. Mix for 2-3 minutes, or until nice and frothy. 7. Slowly add the sugar until fully incorporated. Whisk on medium speed for 10 minutes. [10] 8. Meanwhile, prep your ramekins: cut eight 4” by 12” strips of parchment paper. Brush eight 3” wide ring molds with the cornstarch and butter mixture. Brush both sides of the parchment [108] and place the parchment inside the ring. Finish remaining ramekins and place a slice of cake in each one. [11] 9. Once the whites are ready, in a separate bowl whisk together 160 g of soufflé base and the flavor drops. Add ¼ of the whites to the base [12] and whisk together quickly to avoid air loss from the meringue. Add this mixture back to the whites [13] and gently fold together. 10. Place the mixture in a disposable piping bag [14] and cut a 2” hole. Be careful not to cut too small a hole, so you are not forcing out the air when piping. Pipe the mixture into the lined ring cutter, piping it to the top of the cutter. [15] Bake for 10 minutes. 11. Remove from oven, place on serving plate and remove ring mold with tongs. [16]

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Candied Blood Orange Peel • 20 Blood Orange Peel, Reserved From Soufflé Base • 1500 ml water • 1500 g granulated sugar, divided 1. Slice the rinds into ¼” strips. [17] 2. In a heavy bottomed stock pot, add cut peels and cover with water. Bring to a boil, shut off heat and allow to cool. Strain. Repeat with fresh water 3-5 times, until the rinds are softened and not bitter. [18] 102

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3. In the same pot, bring the water and 1 kg of the sugar to a boil to dissolve sugar, then re-add peels. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 1 hour, or until it has thickened to a syrup. [19] Strain and cool. Reserve the remaining syrup for the sherbet recipe. 4. Once cool, place the candied peel on a cooling rack on a sheet tray and dry overnight. 5. Place the remaining 500 g sugar in a bowl, and coat the dried peels with sugar. [20] Place back on the cooling rack and dry overnight.


Candied Blood Orange Sherbet • • • • • •

950 ml milk 300 g reserved candied rind syrup 4 lemons (zested and juiced) 50 g granulated sugar 6.25 g Perfect Sorbet (sorbet stabilizer)* 200 g Candied Blood Orange Rinds

1. Combine the milk, peel syrup and lemon zest. 2. In a mixing bowl, combine the sugar and Perfect Sorbet and whisk together until combined. The sugar granules will coat the Perfect Sorbet and assist with its mixing. 3. Add the Perfect Sorbet mix to the milk and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and place in the refrigerator. Let the milk cool completely. If you skip this step, the milk will curdle. 4. Once cool, strain and add lemon juice. Pour 500 g of the base into each Paco container, add 100 g of the Candied Blood Orange Peels to each container [21] and freeze solid. 5. Once frozen, churn in Pacojet.

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Blood Orange Tuiles • • • • •

100 g Candied Blood Orange Peels 45 g water 100 g unsalted butter, room temperature 100 g all-purpose flour 0.5 g salt

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. In a blender, blend the candied orange peels and water until the peels are coarsely chopped. [22, 23] 3. Add the butter [24] and blend until semismooth (there should be small bits of the peel left in the mixture). Place the butter in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and mix on medium speed until it begins to lighten in color, about 1 minute.

*Ingredients found at modernistpantry.com 22

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4. Sift the flour. 5. Turn the mixer to slow speed, then add all the flour and salt at once. Mix just until combined (do not overmix). 6. Using a small offset spatula, spread a 1/16� thick strip of the batter on a non-stick baking mat. [25] We like to clean one side of the strip into a perfect rectangle and have the other side be more organic. [26] The orange peel pieces can make this tricky, but we like the imperfections it makes in the tuiles. 7. Bake until golden brown, and form into whatever shape you like for the dish. [27]

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Honey Ancho Curd • 340 g Ancho Reyes liqueur, divided • 3 sheets PerfectaGel silver sheet gelatin, 160-bloom* • 30 g blood orange juice • 120 g egg yolks • 175 g honey • 226 g unsalted butter • 5 g salt 1. In a small pot, bring 270 g of the Ancho Reyes liqueur to a boil (the remaining liqueur will be added after the curd has been heated). Allow it to reduce by half (135 g), about 2-3 minutes.

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2. Using an immersion circulator, preheat the bath to 167°F. 3. Add the gelatin sheets to a container of ice cold water and allow it to bloom. (This is not the water for the recipe, this water will be discarded after the gelatin has bloomed.) 4. In a vacuum seal bag, place the reduced Ancho Reyes liqueur, blood orange juice, egg yolks, honey, gelatin, butter and salt. Place the bag in an immersion circulator that is set to 167°F for 30 minutes. [28] 5. Once the mixture has been cooked, pour the contents into a blender [29] and blend for 2 minutes. 6. Add the reserved 70 g Ancho Reyes liqueur and pulse once or twice in the blender 7. Place the curd in a small sealed container and allow it to cool completely, about 2 hours. The gelatin will need this time to set. For plating purposes you can gently heat the curd to thin it out.

*Ingredients found at modernistpantry.com

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Plating 1. Place 2 tablespoons of the gently heated curd in the middle of the plate, tilt the plate and pour out the excess into a clean bowl. [30] 2. Place a few pieces of chopped dried blood orange peel in the curd for decoration. 3. Remove the soufflé from the oven and dust with confectioners’ sugar. 4. Place the soufflé in the center of the plate and place a quenelle of the sherbet on the center. 5. Garnish with the tuile and serve.

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Join pastry greats and fellow craftsmen at the only event dedicated to the artisan baker. JEREMEY GADOUAS

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LAMINATED DOUGH 101

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Learn what’s between those flaky flavorful layers!

Redefine croissant! Challenge flavor, appearance and your imagination.

A R T I S A NB A K ERY EX P O . C O M

MARCH 5-7, 2019 • LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER


Places

Ginger Elizabeth

Chocolates Sacramento, California

www.gingerelizabeth.com 108

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Ginger & Tom Hahn, Owners Company Mission

We believe in four primary principles in order to achieve greatness in pastry arts and as a small business: never skip steps and always pay attention to the details, constantly monitor products to ensure freshness, always push yourself to continue to learn and grow within the craft, respect chocolate. We are honored to be part of this tradition and proud to be practicing classical techniques that have been employed by many great chocolatiers before us.

Signature Product

Palet D’Or bitter sweet chocolate from Peru and our Salty Caramel Macaron.

Secret of Success

Humility, listening, learning, and resilience.

Shop’s Best Feature

The color pink (Ginger’s favorite color!). The vertical layout of the store makes for beautiful window displays. The cabinets are specifically designed to let the chocolates take center stage. Pastry Arts

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Places

Patisserie 46 & Rose Street

Patisserie Minneapolis, Minnesota www.patisserie46.com

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John Kraus & Elizabeth Rose, Owners Company Mission

Our goal is to continue promoting the values of haute patisserie throughout the neighborhoods we are a part of. Our goal is to make sure the craft continues forward through education and participation, while maintaining the highest standards of the Relais Desserts.

Signature Product

Viennoiserie, bread, confections and ice cream.

Secret of Success

We allow our guests a chance to connect and unplug by promoting an environment to truly enjoy a moment, whether it be with a croissant and coffee or a petit gateaux, without pretense, while striving to consistently offer the highest quality product. Our entire team is our “employee of the month”—their care and loyalty has become the secret. It is due to their discipline that we are able to offer our neighbors the experience they seek, day in and day out. Consistency is the most important factor in their return.

Shop’s Best Feature

Each location is a communal gathering place where guests can enjoy our pastries and create their own memorable moments. Pastry Arts

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Places

Pretty Cool

Ice Cream Chicago, Illinois www.prettycoolicecream.com

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Dana Salls Cree & Michael Ciapciak, Owners Company Mission

To create delicious hand-crafted ice cream novelties, like an indoor popsicle truck.

Signature Product

Orange Party Pop: A cream cheese ice cream bar dipped in an orange magic shell and covered in a bright orange sprinkle blend.

Secret of Success

Investing in the intangible aspects of my career. As a kitchen employee I didn’t have much earning power, so I decided long ago I needed to invest in the things you couldn’t buy. I did this by traveling and staging in a variety of kitchens, exposing myself to as many flavors as possible, asking the accounting department to educate me as often as possible, watching other peoples’ successes and failures, and refining my own ethics and attitudes towards everyone in the industry, from dishwashers, delivery drivers and vendors, coworkers, events salespeople, and, of course, the guests. When it came time to open a shop, investors offered fiscal support, but this web of people and experience lifted us higher than anything money could buy.

Shop’s Best Feature

We build a large viewing window between the public area and the kitchen so people could see that everything was being made right there. The colorful jumpsuits we wear in the kitchen, a fun way to stay connected to dairy processing uniforms, are a big hit. And I really love seeing a group of girls watching us, seeing that this is an option for them too. They can love the ice cream, make the ice cream, and own the business one day. Pastry Arts

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Resources

2019 Events

for Chefs & Professionals

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Pastry Plus Conference The International Culinary Center (ICC) in New York City will hold the second Pasty Plus Conference on Sunday, March 24, 2019, with its charitable arm, the Pastryland Bake Sale, running earlier in the month on Saturday, March 9, 2019.Both events will be held at ICC (28 Crosby Street, New York, NY). The mission of these two events is to establish a pastry community that promotes a constructive exchange of ideas and information to secure the future of the industry. Led by ICC’s Director of Pastry Operations, Jansen Chan, in partnership with Callebaut and an advisory committee of top pastry chefs, the Pastryland Bake Sale will take place at ICC on Saturday, March 9, 2019 from 12-4 pm. The daytime event will feature an array of select pastry chefs from world-class restaurants and bakeries, including Union Square Café, Bien Cuit, Bâtard and Patisserie Chanson, who will each donate one-of-a-kind desserts for the charity bake sale, which will benefit Hot Bread Kitchen. The theme of Pastry Plus Conference 2019 is ‘Sharing the Slice’. The forum is resented in partnership with Callebaut, and will feature a collective presentation, activity and panel discussion focusing on how the industry must consider the way in which we connect and share information. Pastry Plus aims

to connect the innovative minds of pastry professionals, providing a rare opportunity to meet and network in a positive, constructive environment to discuss the issues facing them individually and in the industry as a whole. Pastry Plus’ Keynote Address will be given by Francisco Migoya, Head Chef of Modernist Cuisine. Individual, self-selected breakout classes (choice of three 75-minute sessions) will focus on preserving the craft of pastry arts; innovation in techniques, ingredients and products; and improving the workplace. Continental breakfast and lunch will be provided, and a networking reception will conclude the inspiring day. ICC has also joined with the James Beard Foundation and Pastry Arts Magazine, as leadership and media partners, respectively. Over 140 pastry chefs, pastry sous chefs, pastry cooks, pastry students, pastry enthusiasts and pastry business owners, plus food media, bloggers and social media influencers, are expected to attend the conference. Tickets for Pastry Plus ($120 plus fees; $90 plus fees for Early Bird from January 28 to February 25), include access to Pastryland. For more info or to purchase tickets for both events, visit www.internationalculinarycenter.com/pastryplus/.

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International Artisan Bakery Expo The International Artisan Bakery Expo (IABE) will debut March 5-7, 2019 at the Las Vegas Convention Center in Las Vegas. Exhibiting alongside the largest pizzeria event in the world, The International Pizza Expo, the goal of IABE is to connect premium purveyors with passionate artisan bakery innovators. Seminars, competitions, networking events, supplier demonstrations, hundreds of suppliers and thousands of bakers will convene for this first in a lifetime experience supporting the artisan bakery movement. Here you’ll find hundreds of industry suppliers, distributors and dealers showing their equipment, ingredients and services specifically developed for those bakers supplying and selling fresh, unpackaged baked goods from retail and food service outlets. Two hundred artisan bakery exhibitors and 500 pizzeria exhibitors will be on-hand ready to provide solutions and opportunities for both artisan industries. For more info, visit www.artisanbakeryexpo.com.

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The 2019 San Francisco Chocolate Salon Chocolate aficionados and professionals will have the opportunity to taste and experience the finest in artisan gourmet and premium chocolate at the San Francisco Chocolate Salon, which will take place at the San Francisco County Fair Building from 10:00 am to 5:30 pm on March 30. Exhibitors at the event include a curated selection of premium and award-winning chocolatiers, confectioners and other culinary artisans. Salon highlights feature chocolate tastings, demonstrations, chef and author talks. For more info, visit www.SFChocolateSalon.com.


National Restaurant Association Show The 2019 National Restaurant Association Show will take place May 18-21 at McCormack Place in Chicago. This is the foodservice industry’s largest and most comprehensive annual event, bringing together a wide range of sectors into one space. It will feature exhibitors from around the world, including international pavilions from Italy, France, Thailand and Greece. The National Restaurant Association Show is the place to explore everything that’s happening in the industry—from equipment and supplies to food and beverage to technology. It’s a place to learn, experience, network, sample, and test all the latest things on the market. With learning opportunities that reflect today’s business challenges and forward-thinking trends, the National Restaurant Association Show might just help you—and your business—stay ahead of the curve. For more info or to register, visit www.show.restaurant.org.

StarChefs International Chefs Congress The 14th Annual StarChefs International Chefs Congress will take place October 27 to 29, 2019 at the Brooklyn Expo Center. As always, there’ll be three days of main stage cooking demonstrations, hands-on workshops, beverage tastings, business seminars and competitions. In addition to bringing together some of the world’s most inspiring culinary professionals, StarChefs Congress gathers best-in-class producers and equipment manufacturers so you can outfit your kitchen and fill your walk-in with exceptional product. This is a great opportunity to ask questions, take away techniques and return to work with a revitalized vision for your business. For more info, visit www.starchefs.com.

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International Baking Industry Exposition 2019 IBIE, also known as the Baking Expo™, will take place September 7 through September 11 at the Las Vegas Convention Center in Las Vegas, and registration is now open. Held once every three years, IBIE is the largest trade event in the Western Hemisphere for the baking industry. This forum is a great opportunity to discover the latest trends and innovations, participate in cutting-edge conference sessions and demos, and build relationships at high-level networking events. This unique community gathering offers business development opportunities on many levels. Over the past decade, IBIE has enjoyed a 65 percent increase in attendance and is on track to be bigger and better than ever with a nearly sold out show floor. When the show opens September 8-11 in Las Vegas, Nevada, the enlarged expo floor plan will host more than 1,000 exhibitors showcasing the latest in automation/technology, ingredients and industry trends across the vertical supply chain for every role and every segment of the grainbased food industry. New in 2019, IBIE will launch IBIEducate, a full day of education on September 7, one day prior to the exhibit hall opening. Now 124

Pastry Arts

attendees can dedicate a full day to targeted education, designed to deliver valuable ideas and strategies to improve bakery products, optimize production and support business growth. Along with the additional day of learning, the IBIEducate line-up offers more classroom sessions, more hands-on sessions, more technical sessions as well as business sessions focusing on management and marketing topics. Sessions can be purchased individually or attendees can get unlimited access through the all-new ‘All Access Pass.’ IBIE will also unveil two artisan marketplaces, presented by Bread Bakers Guild of America and Puratos. These new state-of-the-art show floor destinations will introduce show elements specifically produced to support the growth of the artisan and specialty market segment. Curated competitions, staged demonstrations from celebrity chefs and Certified Master Bakers, tastings, expert Q&A sessions, exhibitor demonstrations and much more will bring the marketplaces to life. For more info on IBIE or to register, visit www.ibie2019.com.


American Culinary Federation National Convention The American Culinary Federation will hold its national conference in beautiful Orlando, Florida on August 4-8, 2019 at the Orlando World Center Marriott. If you’re a chef exploring new ideas and flavors, a student looking to gain experience or a foodservice professional keeping atop the latest and greatest, they’ve got plenty of educational and networking opportunities for you. Featuring educational workshops and seminars such as: Lessons I’ve Learned and my New Favorite Recipe Chef Gale Gand, a nationally acclaimed pastry chef, restaurateur, cookbook author, television personality, teacher, entrepreneur, and mother, who has also been recognized as Outstanding Pastry Chef of the Year by The James Beard Foundation, will reveal some of the most important lessons she’s learned over her 40 years in the food business, plus her most recent favorite recipe. Celebrating Foods from Around the World For many food professionals, one of the most enriching activities is learning a new cuisine

or baking tradition. In recent years this has become a sensitive area which is sometimes politicized. What is cultural appropriation? How can we avoid doing it and still engage in cuisines which aren’t “ours?” Hear about these general topics and then hear about a case study of the introduction of Hungarian baking at Zingerman’s Bakehouse. What went well and what remained challenging? Culinary Medicine – Cooking Up New Relationships Between Chefs and Physicians How do chefs play a role to increase the health and well-being of their communities? Culinary Medicine is the hot new area of culinary training. A partnership between Chefs, Dietitians and Physicians teaching medical students the application of food as medicine. Learn about why this is an important addition to the training of medical providers and the benefits for the public at large. Enjoy a tasting of some of the recipes that are taught to medical students. For more information about the convention visit: https://www.acfchefs.org/ Photo Credit: Courtesy of American Culinary Federation

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Thank you to all who supported For the Love of Chocolate Foundation’s 14th Annual Gala! Rebel, from Rockabilly to Rock & Roll!

Linda Avery

Right Mind Banners TIMM & GARFINKEL, LLC ________________________________

Attorneys at law

For the Love of Chocolate Foundation

Making a difference in the lives of pastry students all across the Midwest! Support us in supporting them. Join our long list of sponsors in funding pastry education. Franco Pacini - Board Chairman

franco@ftloc.org

773-972-1927

www.ftloc.org

Profile for Rennew Media

Pastry Arts Magazine - Spring 2019  

Inside the Spring Issue: + Pastry Virtuosity: Cake Shake Theory + Emily Luchetti: On Professional Growth & Reflection + Crossroads: Where...

Pastry Arts Magazine - Spring 2019  

Inside the Spring Issue: + Pastry Virtuosity: Cake Shake Theory + Emily Luchetti: On Professional Growth & Reflection + Crossroads: Where...